# Rusty track.



## mopac

I have a box of AF track. I noticed this morning the track is getting rusty.
Not completely covered in rust but pretty rusty. Can it be salvaged? What would be the best method to clean it up.


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## T-Man

Rusty means the top coating is gone so wire brushing or scotchbrite is best. If a liquid is used you have to replace the paper insulators. WIre brushes are hand, drill, drill press and bench grinder operated.


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## mopac

Thanks T-Man. I figured wire brush. I wanted to ask before I used something that aggressive. I have had the track over 50 years and it had done well till now. It won't
get better on its own. I need to clean it up soon. I hadn't thought about the paper insulators. Thanks for the heads up on liquid cleaners.


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## Hellgate

Go to Harbor Freight and buy EnvapoRust.
The best stuff on Earth
Pour it into an aluminum throw away pan that is long enough for your track, 
place track in, wait 1 day, track is rust free!


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## gunrunnerjohn

I'm not sure what Evapo-Rust will do to the paper insulators, so I'd do a couple of pieces and see how it comes out.

I'd also knock the loose rust off before using the Evapo-Rust, because the more rust there is, the sooner the chemical gets weak and need replacement. You can reuse Evapo-Rust until it no longer works, I've used my gallon for several projects already, and it's still working fine. I just strain it through a fine screen and put it back in the jug for the next use.  As it gets weaker, it takes it longer to work. When it's not working after 6-8 hours in the soup, it's time to replace it.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Whatever you do, DON'T use sandpaper or steel wool on the track. I found green scotchbrite pads work pretty well and are rather inexpensive. The "bright boys" as they are called work too. But they can get pricey if you need to buy a few of them to do the job. As far as the actual cleaning, only the top of the rails need to be cleaned -- that is where the train picks up the power. So save yourself some grief and only work on the tops of the rails.


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## Alamo

I use a Dremel tool,with a little wire wheel to clean my track...I put my "Mo & Larry" handcar on my line,and when it stops,that`s the track I clean...When old "Mo & Larry" go around the whole layout without stoping,I know everything is clean and OK...Especially when I slow them down...It`s fun also,which is why I do it this way...Alamo


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## kix662003

Nuttin But Flyer wrote "Whatever you do, DON'T use sandpaper or steel wool on the track." When I was young 50-something years ago, I used some of Dad's coarse sandpaper to "clean" my Flyer's track. My 303 Steamer still runs today, but now I'm concerned about the track. Is there any method to "smooth out" my error?


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## Carl

Interesting discovery made by the geeks that worked for NASA at Johnson Space Center and were into model railroading. They took various NEW metal tracks of various scales, which included the different metals used and looked at them through a microscope. Not one of the tracks examined was found to be clean of scratches on the top. I think I would only be concerned if the track top surface was heavily pitted and/or causing problems.


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## Big Ed

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I'm not sure what Evapo-Rust will do to the paper insulators, so I'd do a couple of pieces and see how it comes out.
> 
> I'd also knock the loose rust off before using the Evapo-Rust, because the more rust there is, the sooner the chemical gets weak and need replacement. You can reuse Evapo-Rust until it no longer works, I've used my gallon for several projects already, and it's still working fine. I just strain it through a fine screen and put it back in the jug for the next use.  As it gets weaker, it takes it longer to work. When it's not working after 6-8 hours in the soup, it's time to replace it.



I would recommend the you pour your used stuff it in another suitable container. Leave the original as is.
Use the used stuff till it won't work anymore.
Just make sure the container you use will contain it.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

kix -- Using sandpaper will remove the nickel plating off the rails, so I'm told. The steel wool leaves minute particles that become trapped inside the gears and motors of the trains. The best item I found is the green Scotchbrite pads. They leave no residue, do not scratch the finish off and they are relatively inexpensive. Some others will also add some alcohol to remove stubborn dirt and rust. But with some diligent but hefty elbow grease, it can come off with the pad. If you encounter any track that is beyond saving, never throw it away. Use it by cutting down the length for those "short" places where one full piece is too big. Also, save the ties, insulating papers and rails for other pieces that need repair or for a junk pile scene on your layout.


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