# Has anybody tried/used "Blacken-It"??



## llskis (Apr 11, 2013)

I bought the above on ebay (picture enclosed) and used it accordingly to their instructions.
Result: Worked only marginally; changed the color only a little. Has anybody tried this product? It supposed to change medal (not alum.) to a dark black but did not work for me.
It would come in handy for Model Train Work. Larry:dunno:


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I have some but never tried it on metal, it works on plastic and wood.

I would have to look to see if it is the same stuff as your showing, who makes it?
Is there a name on it?


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## llskis (Apr 11, 2013)

Big Ed: Bottom of Bottle reads: A-West Woodstock GA. Can't tell if they actually made it
or perhaps they are a importer. Larry


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## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

Got the same results as you, though I believe mine was already several years old when I came across it in a box lot.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

What were you trying to blacken? I've used gun bleu ing for some lionel stuff, not black but after a few coats was dark.


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## Patrick1544 (Apr 27, 2013)

I found it to work minimally, also. So I left it in the solution longer and I got better results. One thing I read is to keep the part you want to blacken, very clean any oils will insulate it from the solution.


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## Northern Route (May 12, 2014)

A friend of mine tried it years ago, and he told me he made several applications before he got the results that he wanted on an HO steam loco drivers


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## llskis (Apr 11, 2013)

sjm9911 said:


> What were you trying to blacken? I've used gun bleu ing for some lionel stuff, not black but after a few coats was dark.


That little bar on the Northern (In this case 332) that has the linkage connected to it. Maybe when I get some time I'll try it again and leave it in a little longer in the solution.
Larry


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

cold chemical blackeners work reasonably well, but not as good as the 'hot' ones .. and there are cold blackeners made specifically for brass , or steel, or aluminum ... in all cases the metal must be very clean to get even color change, and work better if the metal gets a few minutes in a muriatic acid bath to very lightly 'etch' the metal, but the longer in the bath, the less 'shine' .. brownell's has a good assortment online, or your local gun shop ,


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## Chet (Aug 15, 2014)

I used it a long long time ago when I was hand laying code 70 rail and had good results with it. The ail was in 36" lengths and I was able to find a plastic container that worked for submersing the rail all at one time. The results were worth it.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

I use a cold bluing from Brownells, I believe it's called 44-40, or something like that. The trick is to get the part squeaky clean, and then HEAT IT, before applying the blue/blacking. I use a heat gun or plumbers torch to heat up the part slightly. Of course, it doesn't work for plastics or bakelite.


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## Grabbem88 (Feb 24, 2012)

Oily greasy fingers is the culprit 

I use 90% alcohol and sometimes light to burn off the residue..


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I've used Birchwood Casey Super Blue "gun blue" to blacken with good success. Very easy to use.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

tjcruiser said:


> I've used Birchwood Casey Super Blue "gun blue" to blacken with good success. Very easy to use.


yep....


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