# Two long drags... soon-to-be achieved



## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

By Christmas of this year, I may have achieved a life-long bucket list item... long multi-diesel drags on a model scale.
_An 80/90-car mixed freight, and a 110-car coal drag._

The trains are being comprised of all levels of cars, from top level premium RTR, to a plethora of Accurail kits, and many brands in-between.
Virtually every car, including cabooses, will be equipped with Kadee or Proto-Max couplers, and tuned trucks... (thus far, every car glides like a curling stone).

All the cars have been acquired over many years, (by hook, crook, and open-wallet surgery) some of which have taken me hundreds of miles to find... i.e., Tangent in Asheville, N.C., and a hobby shop in Massachusetts.

The 3-diesel freight drag will be pulled by three BLI SD7's.
The 4-diesel coal drag will be headed by two Proto SD9's and an SD7, with a BLI SD7 _mid-train helper._ All diesels are speed-matched.

The folks at our rented basement club will help me billet the cars into a marshalling yard (via a re-railer) for train make-up and run-around sessions.
It's possible, (although logistically impractical) that both trains could run simultaneously. We've assigned that as a weekend 'challenge' project, Operation _"Hauly Cow"._

It should work out okay. Trackwork and wiring are nearly impeccable, and derailments are historically rare. But there's a long double-length Central Valley truss bridge that occasionally loses power, and it's in a hard-to-reach area (under-bench trapdoor access)... Knock on wood.

None of us have experience with video, but we'd like to record at least one session from start to finish with edits.
Currently it'd be a so-so visual effect... Lighting will need improving, and landscape and scenery are in the early stages.


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## D&J Railroad (Oct 4, 2013)

Do you have a camera small enough to mount on rolling stock?
Use tripods with your cameras. If your tripods are inexpensive, try not to pan with them but let the trains come into and out of the picture frame.
Silence all other background noises like radios or people who might be oblivious to what you are doing.


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

Good luck with this LS, I've been following this build and will
love to see the result.

Magic


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Coal drag just got bigger*_
(new RTR models added)._

Just got a line on some new models... _Arrowhead_ hoppers.
High priced, but I'm treating myself. I won't mention the MSRP.
They're richly detailed, and equipped with Kadee 58's.
I've seen three road names -- Pennsy, D&RGW, and Southern. At least a dozen car numbers each.

I put in an order for two Pennsy's. The others are a wee bit out of era for me.


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## gregc (Apr 25, 2015)

LateStarter said:


> Trackwork and wiring are nearly impeccable, and derailments are historically rare.


even with good trackwork, need to run them slowly at prototypical speed. hopefully all cars properly weighted


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Mixed freight drag*_
Composition:_

31 Boxcars
21 Tank cars
14 Reefers
--9 Covered hoppers
--7 Gondolas
--6 Flatcars
---- Caboose
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89 Total

_A large number are Accurail kits._
Others are Tangent, ExactRail, Kadee, Red Caboose, Proto, Atlas Master, InterMountain, two Athearn RTR covered hoppers, two Athearn RTR tankers, and two Athearn BB flatcars.

Eight boxcars are 50-footers. Some covered hoppers are 3-bay 2893's, and 48-foot 3500's. Gons are InterMountain drop-bottoms, ExactRail Gunderson 2400's, and Tangent ACF 70 tonners. All flatcars are 40-footers (two Athearn BB, and four InterMountain-Red Caboose). 

Most cars have build-dates of _early '40's to late '50's_ (four are early '60's).
All have Kadee or Proto-Max couplers. All are TruckTuned, (where necessary) and with metal wheelsets. 

As with the coal drag, train speed will be kept mostly at a scale 25 to 40 mph within urban and city limits... (in the open flat desert area it might reach the upper 50's). Except for passenger service, I'm not a fan of fast-moving trains.

The only weathered cars are some Accurail boxcars and reefers, the two Athearn RTR tankers, and the two Athearn BB flatcars (I will _not_ weather premium cars).

There are no open hoppers... (all of those are reserved for the coal drag).


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Accurails for the coal drag*_
(some things just happen at the right time)._

Aging eyesight has brought a reality front and center. Assembling Accurail kits has gotten more difficult, even with magnification.

Fortunately, I acquired and assembled a bunch of Accurail 3-bay open hoppers before my eyesight started going south.
These days, the end/brake details are beyond my ability.

Thirty five were assembled quite a while ago, including a dozen each of SP and M&StL, plus six Frisco (all of which were re-numbered with supplemental decal sets).

Funny... my dad always said, _"Youth is wasted on the young."_


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Coal drag make-up*_
(hopper brands-R-us)._

35 Accurail
26 Tangent
24 BLI (four 6-car sets).
--8 Athearn RTR (two 4-car sets).
--5 Stewart/Bowser-Exec
--3 ExactRail
--3 Atlas Trainman
--2 Train Miniature
--2 Arrowhead (just added).
--1 Walthers Mainline
--1 Bachman Silver
--1 Accuready
--1 Rivarossi
---- Proto Caboose
----------------------
113 Total

The Accurails are mostly Southern Pacific, M&StL, and Frisco.
Twenty of the Tangents are UTAH. All three ExactRail's, and six of the BLI's are D&RGW (as are the Walthers, the Bachman and a Stewart/Bowser).
Twelve BLI's are N&W. Six are Pennsy. The two Arrowheads are also Pennsy.
Others are NH, GN and CB&Q.
Three are 2-bays... B&O, C&O and C&S.

Many of the non-premium cars are weathered... (in varying degrees, from moderate to severe).

*Rivarossi and Accuready*_
They're no Tangent, but they'll suffice._
The Accuready though, is a superb roller out-of-the-box.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Proto C/30's*
I have several of these with different car numbers on my roster.
Fairly well detailed, and superb rollers, (plus a somewhat decent price tag).
Athearn RTR are okay, (and cheap) but only so-so on detail.
Genesis and InterMountain/Centralia C/40's are better detailed, but far more expensive, and harder to find (the lighted version must be very cool!).

I had a nice _American Model Builders_ kit some years ago, but I mucked it up in the paint booth.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Athearn RTR*_
Later version C/40_

This dude ventures up to Chicago, and gets dead-headed back to St. Louis as a 'red eye' tail-wagger behind an S.P. or R.I. caboose, or at the end of a mail train.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*The only one*_
(a weathered premium car)._

I've stated that I won't weather premium cars...
This is the one and only exception.

It's an ExactRail B&O wagontop that I custom modded for SP/REA status as a component to a mail train.
It was weathered to reflect the rigors of a 3,500 mile trek from Chicago to L.A.

There were about a dozen of these in the SP system. They were occasionally utilized for regular freight duty.

I found one on a weedy spur in Bakersfield in '72.


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

That's some very nice weathering, used but not abused. 
Nice looking rail car, something different.

Magic


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Train maker*_
(one of four)._

One of the most fun parts of trains is making them up -- assembling them from individuals and strings brought out of the yard.
There's an S1, an RS-3, an SW-1500, and _this guy_ -- a 44 tonner.

It started out life as Bachman's DCC rendition, with horrendously incorrect details, i.e., rhinoceros headlight visors, and strange hood-top grilles that didn't exist on the prototype.

Following GE design drawings, I carved out the offending features, and added prototype ones, using Detail Associates bezels, and putty to fill gaps.
Then horn, wipers, antenna, scale cut bars and brake hoses were added, along with yellow-white LED's, and MV lenses. Capped off with MicroScale lettering & stripes.
It was weathered moderately, just to reflect daily use.
It also has ESU Loksound, which is a perfect match for this diesel.


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## D&J Railroad (Oct 4, 2013)

Some simple fading of paint can be done with a Bright Boy. After that, add some fine powdered chaulk for grime, rust & product spills.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Motive power*_
3 & 4-diesel consists._

All motive power for both drags will be speed-matched SD7/9 consists... BLI and Proto.
_I have two Atlas Gold SD35's on preorder, but I doubt they'll be available for another year or more._

I had originally intended to get 'cute', and slip-in my RSD-15 Alligator. The SP made some unwise choices with available horsepower, and they were sadly relegated to the hump in Eugene.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Longer haulers*_
(of a different kind)._

BLI E7-A/B set that I custom painted and lettered from GN and ACL units (both are powered and speed-matched).
I added scale wipers, antennas and an M5 horn.

These are for _"The Camel"_, a long mail train that made monthly 3,500 mile trips from Chicago to L.A. via St. Louis, Shreveport, Dallas, Albuquerque and west... a grueling haul.

The E7's were sometimes changed out in St. Louis, or replaced with PA/B's.

The only weathering I did was to put some dirt and brake dust on the truckframes (which I painted silver).
_And yes, the "F" on the sill is prototype._


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## 89Suburban (Jan 4, 2017)

Damn that truck weathering came out nice!


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Weathered gons in the freight drag*_
(private owners)._

These are cheap Accurail 'Data-Only' kits that I lettered for a freelance steel mill.
Two carry scrap steel, and were weathered with rust. A third was coated with limestone 'mud-dust', which if left unwashed, turns into a sticky clay, and eventually... low quality _concrete._


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Tangent G43, "The Old Worm"*_
(couldn't help myself)._

Although this 52-footer is way out of my era, I'm going against conventional wisdom, and slipping it into the freight drag.

It's a 1970 car, but it has a significant place in my heart, because the prototype frequented the local salvage yard in my neighborhood for nearly two decades. It eventually became a rusted-out hulk, and was retired.
But countless times, on my way through town, I'd see it behind a switcher hauling scrap to the steel mill.
When it started looking decrepit, my grandfather, (who was a New Haven yard boss) called it _"The Old Worm"._

I climbed inside it once, and looked around. One side was bowed inward. There were actually weeds growing on the floor, in the accumulated dirt and metal chips.
Left a lasting impression.


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## D&J Railroad (Oct 4, 2013)

Sooo ahhhh, when is this long train video going to be aired?


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Probably won't be as good as _that._


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Maybe I missed it, but I'm curious as to how you got the 'dirty' look on those loco trucks? Was it just some selective scraping of the silver paint or is there a painting technique that gives this look?


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Shdwdrgn said:


> Maybe I missed it, but I'm curious as to how you got the 'dirty' look on those loco trucks?...


It wasn't a tried-and-true procedure. I only went by eye and 'feel' (I'd never done silver truckframes before).

But I.I.R.C...
Airbrushed Silver acrylic, then a light spritz of gray (however, I don't recall which gray I used).
Then a _very light_ Black Wash... wiped immediately.
Allow to dry thoroughly.

Then...
_Dry-brushing:_
Some Vallejo _Brown-Gray_ and LifeColor _"Brake Dust"_, with just a touch of _Grime_ here and there.
All very sparingly... Less is more.

It always seems to look more intense to me when weathered items are actually mounted on the model. It's very easy to overdo it. But it's _not_ easy to _un_do it.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

BTW, (I should've stated) that photo is right after the black wash.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Nice, thanks for the info. I think the black-washing is one technique I really need to try and learn one of these days. With such tiny details at this scale it is important to try and bring out the details or they will be completely overlooked.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Hard to find around here*_
(anything SOO)._

I have several Kadee 2-bays, but some roads are hard to find in these parts.
New Haven, Great Northern and SOO are a few scarce roadnames locally.
So when I found this at an online outlet I jumped at it.

This car shows up _red_ in most ad photos.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*A Kadee McGinnis*_
(take it or leave it)._

Because I grew up in Connecticut, I have seven New Haven cars.
One is an Accurail NYNH&H boxcar, and there's a three-car set of Accurail gons.
The other three (although I'm not a big fan) are McGinnis boxcars.

Since they were a part my everyday life as a kid, and because you couldn't go anywhere in Greater New England without noticing them, I chose to own them with reluctant pride (I still much prefer the _NYNH&H_ script lettering).

Most of these were terribly rusted and shockingly decrepit toward the bitter end, but (except for an Accurail version) mine will remain 'as delivered'.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*ExactRail's early production*_
(the entry-level Express Series)._

I'm a huge fan of this paint scheme.
It's been awhile since this one hit the shelves. It's been out of production for quite some time.
ExactRail's early issues (most notably the Express Series) came without separate grabs and ladders, but other details are finely reproduced, like mesh end-stands and full underbody brake rigging.
They also came with McHenry couplers, but a slip of paper in the box let you know that Kadee #5's are an easy drop-in replacement.
MSRP was around $22, but they sold online for $15 or so. They're outstanding rollers.

Although the Express Series was their entry-level line of cars, they got rave reviews, most notably for crisp lettering and good detail.
These cars are great to own if you can find them.

This one was available in three road numbers. It's a rare find, even used or on eBay.


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## D&J Railroad (Oct 4, 2013)

They're too shiny. Ya need some weathering on those cars.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

D&J Railroad said:


> They're too shiny. Ya need some weathering on those cars.


Perhaps...
I'll gladly weather cheaper cars like Accurail, Bachman and Athearn BB, and some Athearn RTR. But only _truckframes_ get weathered on my premium cars.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Incidental Frisco trivia:*

1.) The Frisco herald is called the "Coonskin" logo. Its outline is a stretched-out raccoon skin.
2.) The city of Frisco, Texas is named after the railroad, and has the same logo.
3.) Frisco highschool's sports teams are named the "Fighting Raccoons".


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## Gramps (Feb 28, 2016)

LateStarter said:


> Perhaps...
> I'll gladly weather cheaper cars like Accurail, Bachman and Athearn BB, and some Athearn RTR. But only _truckframes_ get weathered on my premium cars.


What about some dull-cote and leave them at that?


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Dullcote?
The car bodies are new yes, but they're not _glossy._
If anything, the _truckframes_ are glossy, and I usually weather those.

At my age, I think about the future, i.e., my grandson, who will one day inherit my RR collection.
As I've seen at most estate sales, premium cars hold their worth a bit better if left in original condition.

As an example, the six Accurail 40-foot steel Frisco boxcars I have will be weathered in varying degrees, from moderate to severe. But the Kadee 50-footer pictured above will just get rusty dirty trucks and wheels.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Accurail previous generation*_
(prior to brake rigging sprue)._

Didn't remember until I looked underneath. This kit was before they added the long sprue with brake rigging, and floor guide-runners for weight plates.
Most of my Accurail boxcars are of this generation.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Mineral red truckframes*_
(Accurail)._

These are roller bearing types from Accurail.
When they're weathered, they'll make a good 'rust' base under the 'dirt and dust'.
Sold in packs of 24, MSRP $19.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Incidental Cotton Belt trivia*_
(the herald)._

Most folks think the familiar Cotton Belt logo represents a random ball of cotton... but it's not.
It's a rendering from a design drawing, of the combined cross sections of _cotton gin parts_ -- a shredder cam and saw arbor.
Ingenious.


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

LateStarter said:


> *Mineral red truckframes*_
> (Accurail)._
> 
> These are roller bearing types from Accurail.
> ...


Nice trucks....although may not be accurate for that type and build date of car.....no 40 ft older build boxcar I have ever seen had upgraded roller bearing trucks....

COULD happen though, I suppose.....


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

LateStarter said:


> Dullcote?
> The car bodies are new yes, but they're not _glossy._
> If anything, the _truckframes_ are glossy, and I usually weather those.
> 
> ...


I hate to imagine it but your grandson may not care about trains and sell the whole lot to a dealer for 10 to 20 cents on the dollar....working with my local train store, more times than I can remember (and there have been hundreds) that exact scenario happening...we go out to a customer who called and said they need to sell their trains (for whatever reason), and we end up paying no where near what the retail value was, even for pieces mint in the box.....

Sorry for the downer......hwell:

So, if someone were to spray some dullcote on a car as "weathering", it makes nary a difference on the the re-sale value.....in my experience.....


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Old_Hobo said:


> I hate to imagine it but your grandson may not care about trains and sell the whole lot to a dealer for 10 to 20 cents on the dollar....working with my local train store, more times than I can remember (and there have been hundreds) that exact scenario happening...we go out to a customer who called and said they need to sell their trains (for whatever reason), and we end up paying no where near what the retail value was, even for pieces mint in the box.....
> 
> Sorry for the downer......hwell:


Grandson is 22, and has a bigger layout than I do.
He's meticulously built most of my structures, and about half of my Accurail kits. He also models the same SP period, but with different terrain and locales (Eugene-Salt Lake routes).
There isn't much doubt what he'll do with my stuff when it comes to that.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Old_Hobo said:


> Nice trucks....although may not be accurate for that type and build date of car.....no 40 ft older build boxcar I have ever seen had upgraded roller bearing trucks....
> 
> COULD happen though, I suppose.....


At least fifteen modelers have seen these, and not one has mentioned it.
In fact, I'm not sure that very many rivet counters would fuss over it.

I would expect more criticism for the Penn Central gon I put in my late '50's freight drag, than for roller bearing trucks on a 40-foot boxcar.


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

Old_Hobo said:


> Nice trucks....although may not be accurate for that type and build date of car.....no 40 ft older build boxcar I have ever seen had upgraded roller bearing trucks....
> 
> COULD happen though, I suppose.....





LateStarter said:


> At least fifteen modelers have seen these, and not one has mentioned it.
> In fact, I'm not sure that very many rivet counters would fuss over it.


If the car was used after 1974, it had to have them. Roller bearing trucks were first developed in 1923 (IIRC), and they were used, though not really extensively, in the 40's and 50's. So it's quite possible that a 40 foot boxcar could have had them.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Roof walk reglues*_
(Accurail lift-ups)._

Lifted roof walks at ends (out-of-the-box)...
Not a particularly difficult repair, but a nuisance nonetheless.
I'm finding more and more of these lately.


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

LateStarter said:


> At least fifteen modelers have seen these, and not one has mentioned it.
> In fact, I'm not sure that very many rivet counters would fuss over it.
> 
> I would expect more criticism for the Penn Central gon I put in my late '50's freight drag, than for roller bearing trucks on a 40-foot boxcar.


My bad....didn't know that prototypically correct wasn't an issue for you.....sorry....


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Good solvent glue for kits*_
(with a caveat)._

This is the best I've found for Accurail kits and the like... also great for plastic doors & windows, and _any_ very small plastic detail parts. Won't wick or bleed externally, but will _internally._
Strong bond. Reasonably quick curing time, and _the applicator is perfect for small parts and hard-to-access areas,_ or where only a small amount is needed.
Works on everything but weight plates of course... CA for those.

_However:_
Very vaprous and irritating without ventilation (a hobby paint booth isn't suitable for assembly work).
I have a battery-powered fan clamped to the bench, and an exhaust fan in the room. Both are turned on when I use this stuff, and _left_ on for an hour or so after.


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

flyboy2610 said:


> If the car was used after 1974, it had to have them. Roller bearing trucks were first developed in 1923 (IIRC), and they were used, though not really extensively, in the 40's and 50's. So it's quite possible that a 40 foot boxcar could have had them.





Old_Hobo said:


> My bad....didn't know that prototypically correct wasn't an issue for you.....sorry....


See above.


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