# Train keeps popping off on corner loops



## cbeaur (Feb 12, 2012)

Hi
I have a 12' long x 3' wide layout. The engine keeps popping off on the loops, but the carts will stay on (because the wheels have a better turning radius). I think the issue is that wheels on the loco dont turn enough. Is there a way to adjust/modify the wheels so they turn more?
I keep adjusting the loop but nothing is working.....


----------



## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

We need more information. What engine is derailing? How is the track mounted? Can you post some photos?


----------



## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

HO Scale - 3' wide benchwork tells me the radius is less than 18". It's too narrow to work reliably.

Those radii (less than 18") you're looking a small switcher engines for something that will reliably work.

18" is typically the minimum that is used in HO scale.


----------



## [email protected] (Jan 30, 2012)

__________________







__________________


----------



## cbeaur (Feb 12, 2012)

track is tacked down, cork is glued. engine is a mantua.


----------



## cbeaur (Feb 12, 2012)

how do i measure the radius? i cant tear this thing down as this is the only issue im having there has to be a way to adjust the wheels so there more adapative to the track like the carts are....?


----------



## Rangerover (Feb 8, 2012)

By the looks of your pic, the above poster is correct, I approx your radius to be maybe 15", N scale would work, not HO, and switcher's, like he said!


----------



## cbeaur (Feb 12, 2012)

ok, im new to this stuff, what is a switcher and where do i get one?
thanks


----------



## Rangerover (Feb 8, 2012)

All a Switcher is a short wheel base, rugged, engine that mostly works in the yards, but can haul heavy loads of frieght trains, for short distance like you would find in a railroad yard. Here is some examples for Bachmann, scroll down the page for more choices:
http://compare.ebay.com/like/190625054444?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&_lwgsi=y&cbt=y


----------



## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

It doesn't look like your curves are carefully laid out...kind of like you winged it a bit. That loco, a Mantua/TYCO GP20, should have no problems tracking around a properly laid out 18" curve...it should go down to 15" fairly easily. From the picture, it looks like yours starts out at like a 36" curve, quickly squeezing down to a 12 or 13" one, then back out again.


----------



## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

I have run both Mantua GP20 and Athearn BB GP35 on 15r track. The trick is that the track must curve smoothly. There is no room for error. I have a switcher similar to the Bachmann one in the link (older model, DC only) and it actually performs less reliably on the tight curves wen pulling cars. Due to the lack of weight the increased curve has a greater effect on its pulling capability. The GP is a better puller.


----------



## mr_x_ite_ment (Jun 22, 2009)

cbeaur...I know it would be a little work to pull up the track, but maybe you should. I would add (splice) on a piece that measures about 1 foot by 4 foot to the front side (long side) of the layout. Then I would redo the track to have at least an 18" radius on the end. I would even go for 22" if possible (44 inches in diameter). 

Again, I know it would be a pain, but I think you would be much happier with the way it performs!

Chad


----------



## cbeaur (Feb 12, 2012)

ok, my radius is 13.5" so ill have to widen the ends a bit. The track wasnt "winged"... Its been moved and modified so many times because im trying to get this train to stay on the track. The width of my track is 27.5" so i need to try to extend it on the ends to at least 36" to get my 18" radius correct?
Yes Mrx ite ment, thats what im planning on doing tomorrow. ill try to wident it at the ends AS much as i can as the space is limited! But hopefully it works
thanks


----------



## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

18" radius will require at least 40" in width of the table (you don't want the track right on the very edge of the table.) 

Easiest way to draw a smooth radius is using a thumbtack and a yard stick. Drill a small hole in one end of the yardstick and tack it in place along the centerline of your table. Go out to your desired radius and hold a sharpie marker at the measurement, then just draw out your radius.


----------



## manchesterjim (Dec 30, 2011)

sstlaure said:


> (you don't want the track right on the very edge of the table.)


Aw shucks Scott......its no fun if you don't have to follow along side and catch them!


----------



## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

cbeaur said:


> ok, my radius is 13.5" so ill have to widen the ends a bit. The track wasnt "winged"... Its been moved and modified so many times because im trying to get this train to stay on the track. The width of my track is 27.5" so i need to try to extend it on the ends to at least 36" to get my 18" radius correct?


Correct. Whether or not you go to the edge of the table is your choice. The problem with going to the very edge is if the engine should jump the track and heads away from the table, then it will hit the floor. Besides, the cork itself if layed correctly would be overhanging the edges of the table by 1/2 inch, as the track would be centered on it. 

A 40 inch wide table would be better. I would suggest though maybe a 4 ft (48 inch) wide table for two reasons. You'd have ample room to run a train around an 18 inch track radius safely, and you'd also have enough room to lay an additional 22 inch radius track as well. This way, you'd have the space to run two trains safely at the same time instead of just one. 

Routerman


----------



## kursplat (Dec 8, 2010)

or if your truly unable to secure more R/W to widen the table, think about a point to point layout. no continuous running but no over tight curves. you need to decide what works for you

good luck


----------



## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

I can vouch for those Tyco engines being happy on 15" radii as I had alot of 15" track when I was a kid and that was the engine I had. laying out the curve as smooth as possible is best or simply using sectional track will work too.

Massey


----------



## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

In areas where I run near the edge there are confidently placed robust trees. Soon, when I get time there may be the fronts of buildings in a few of those places.


----------



## THE TYCO MAN (Aug 23, 2011)

Looks as if flex track is being used and just bent to make a curve! I say with a 3 foot wide spot, 18" curves are out of question. I suggest a flex track tool that is set for a 16 inch radius and use it. I don't remember the brand though. I would lay down the track and get the curves reset and try again once better. I suggest a smaller engine like a SW-7 or a GE 44-Tonner. Honesty if I had more room. Try to get it close to 4' wide so a 18 inch radius curv could be done.


----------



## Bucklaew (Oct 7, 2010)

Being your layout is 12' x 3' , if you turns at either end must have 18" radius. With some locos and passenger cars that radius is not enough. You may have to extend your layout at each end to accomidate 24" radius. Good luck.


----------



## breakerboy (Jan 17, 2012)

Many of the questions you have asked in this thread I have come across in building my layout - I built it on a door with some folding legs under it. I am running 15" radius 83 code Atlas snaptrack - engine and car size is a major concern. I picked up this Athearn SW1500 switcher to run my coal yard. It's working great 










Good luck.

bb


----------

