# 1st room design



## trnfn69 (Jan 21, 2012)

Looking for some feedback or guidance on what my layout might look like. This is my first time trying to draw something out with a computer program so be gentle if it looks like @#@@. All measurments are in inches along with feet per outer walls. Using trial of anyrail. Room has not been framed in yet but barring any issues, this will be how it is framed in. Kinda at a blank on how to utilize more of the space while being able to move around.


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## tankist (Jun 11, 2009)

can't see this from work. having the source is good, but perhaps attach a picture file as well?


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## trnfn69 (Jan 21, 2012)

Not sure I understand about the picture file? The drawing is all I've got right now to work with. Unless I'm missing something?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I think this is what they're looking for. Only folks with AnyRail can read those files, you have to export it from the file menu and then you get a graphic file.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Too bad the forum scrunched it down so it's pretty difficult to read...


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## trnfn69 (Jan 21, 2012)

Hate to admit but my experience with computers and their programs is very limited. I guess I will need to figure out how to move files around and such to make things easier when looking for input. Thanks.


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## cabledawg (Nov 30, 2010)

Or you can just post up the file on here and one of us will change it over for ya 

So I'm looking at this and wondering if you are going to bridge across the walking paths to the inner tables? NOt bad use of the space if that's what you are going to do, just plan out how you are going to bridge the gaps.

If you need some help setting up the space, let me know. I can build the floor plan and then let you do the tracks, or give you some pointers on features used in AnyRail. :thumbsup:


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## tankist (Jun 11, 2009)

John thanks! perfect screen compression actually. still readble, yet not blowing the forum up.

trnfn69, 
just as you saved and attached your work in .any file you could have saved/exported it as .jpg image file and attached it here in the exact same way. regardless thats quite some room you have there. lots of good opportunity there


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## mr_x_ite_ment (Jun 22, 2009)

I agree with cable and tank...you have a lot of possibilities there. I think we all wish we had that much room to work with! I am curious, as well, how you are going to "bridge" the gap to the inner plywood benchwork? Is there some benchwork on the "south" side of the plan that we can't see?

Chad


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## trnfn69 (Jan 21, 2012)

Thanks guys. As for bridging the 2 tables, I have a couple of thoughts in mind. One thing I don't want to do is have to do 2 duck unders if at all possible. I had thought when my skills get to a point that I feel confident enough, I was thinking of a helix or some kind of tunnel scene to rise up, cross over and then down to each table, not to high that I can't do any work if needed though. The other would be a hinged section to avoid the duck under. My only other thought would be a hinged piece between the 2 tables and a fixed section of bridge on opposite ends on the outer edges of the tables, in order to move freely for the most part.


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## cabledawg (Nov 30, 2010)

I think a helix is going to eat up alot of real estate on your layout. Good if you are going to have one to go from one level to another, but to have two just to bridge between two tables is alot of room. I think a hinged piece or a lift out section will serve you quite well in this situation. I used to have some articles on how to build liftouts, but I think they got tossed when we moved. I guess you can just google "train liftout" and find all the info you need to build one. Same with the hinged section idea.


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## mr_x_ite_ment (Jun 22, 2009)

Hey trn...I just have a few questions, mostly just so I understand better what you are shooting for. I am going to assume a couple things, and I realize it is not good to assume. I am going to assume that you are working in HO? If you are, I am going to assume that you are striving for a point-to-point layout (something that would simply go out and back in a straight line....i.e. no continuous running). A three foot width at each end (not even 3 ft. at the "engine shop" end) might make it hard to get a big enough radius to turn around comfortably. Are you planning to connect your two inside areas together in the "south" side of your plan? I assume you only need one area that gives you an access to the layout.

Chad


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## 93firebird (Dec 25, 2011)

Made a few changes for you, see what you think of them.


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## trnfn69 (Jan 21, 2012)

Yes I will be running HO. As far as a continuous I would like to run at least 1 track around the entire layout when all is said and done. This was just my first crack at the plan, and I was looking to get some tips from you guys here who have a lot more time and experience in the workings of the layouts. Now looking at it after the comments, I see some reworking is in order to have a train run the entire layout when all is done. I am getting a little ahead of myself in relation to the room size as well, layout won't be built in a month. Too many ideas floating around my head.


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## trnfn69 (Jan 21, 2012)

Thanks 93firebird for the changes, gives me more ideas. Can anyone tell me is there a standard width for benchwork against the wall? I was assuming it is 2ft but am I wrong? Glad I have some locos now, I see big $ for track coming soonhwell: Was thinking of setting up my test track and work area before anything else, good idea or not?


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## cabledawg (Nov 30, 2010)

Nothing more than 30". The reason we say 30" is that the average person has a 30" reach without leaning. So any more than that and you're having to lean across the layout, which may lead to damaged structures or toppled trains.

24" is ideal since you can rip a standard sheet of plywood in half to get that, whereas 30" would require slightly more than half which leaves you with pieces that are slightly less than half. Better use of the standard sized lumber :thumbsup:


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Instead of building two tables apart from the walls.


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## trnfn69 (Jan 21, 2012)

I like the look Sean, only question, how do I access the access spot? Crawl under or a hinged lift up of that section? Might also leave me room for a small island mining or logging scene later on, if there is enough room in the middle. The south wall is only a half wall in order to keep an eye on the dogs, and the west wall south of the test track area will be without a door, possibly even no wall at all except around work bench area.


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## cabledawg (Nov 30, 2010)

It'd be a crawl under thing to get to the access hole, but it's only for times where you need to do scenery or have a derailment. It isnt for day-to-day operations.


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## 93firebird (Dec 25, 2011)

NIMT said:


> Instead of building two tables apart from the walls.
> View attachment 15292


I like this too!


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Ok cleaned it up.


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## trnfn69 (Jan 21, 2012)

That looks way better that what I had laid out. I guess my only question is you have made the wall mount bench work out to 30 inches from 24, is that a better way to go? I don't think other than a little fine tuning that she'll get any better.:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Here is another option that I helped set up for a friend of mine, The grade allowed there to be a high double track bridge over the walk way that after only a few days was really easy to get under and didn't pose much of an obstacle.
The bridge base was made on a curve out of aluminum angle and square tubing. There was a top plastic structure for the bridge it was just removed in these pictures.


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## trnfn69 (Jan 21, 2012)

I like the looks of it. It looks like 3 different levels, yet I don't see which of the bottom 2 levels lift out. Perhaps I'm missing something, or is just for ideas for myself? Nicely done with the aluminum, might be something to look at at a later time.:thumbsup:


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

That was the point there was no lift out you just walked (slightly ducked) under the bridge. Made for a really nice working run.
I would do a lift out section if this is your first go around at doing anything like this. Are your dogs big or little? My wolf Vixen (also my avatar) likes to run off with my tools, More than once she's stole something right in the middle of me working with it!


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## trnfn69 (Jan 21, 2012)

Dogs are mid size (45-60lbs). Only 1 would try to steal tools or go after train as he goes nuts with the vacuum or a shovel. Even trying to mark out where the walls were going the other night with my wife, he went after the tape measure.


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

trnfn69 said:


> That looks way better that what I had laid out. I guess my only question is you have made the wall mount bench work out to 30 inches from 24, is that a better way to go? I don't think other than a little fine tuning that she'll get any better.:thumbsup::thumbsup:


I wouldn't necessarily make it all straight edges and a standard depth. 

I've varied the depth of each scene and the front edge of the layout to achieve a smooth, curved shape that does a nice job of avoiding sharp corners to get caught on, but also allows flexibility for adding depth where needed, but removing depth when it doesn't add anything to the scene (this opens up walkways, etc.) 

For instance, a yard should be about 30" deep so that you have room for all of the tracks, engine house, fueling, etc, but a run through the country and over bridges or through tunnels may only need 12-18" depth to get a nice scene. 

Keep in mind that if and when you get to painting, detailing the scenery, etc, you'll need to lean over this stuff to apply plaster, glue, paint, groundfoam etc.

I like Sean's take, and you could even play around with the location of the inside peninsula (I see a couple places it could go) Think about the various scenes you want to have and look at the linear run you have for that scene. Try and lay out your big scenes in areas that work, then just connect the rest with interesting scenic dividers, etc.


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## trnfn69 (Jan 21, 2012)

Thanks sstlaure, I've got a million ideas going around in my head for what I want to do with this layout but won't be able to incorporate all of them in one room. Don't think the wife would take kindly if I take over the entire basement.:thumbsdown:


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## 93firebird (Dec 25, 2011)

One thing to remember with the wife. It's easier to ask for forgiveness than it is to ask for permission.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Here is another rough draft of an option that would require no duck unders or lift out bridges! And an example of what Scott was talking about with the face of the layout varying.


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## mr_x_ite_ment (Jun 22, 2009)

Those are nice layout plans, Sean...both the ones you came up with are excellent! They allow for some nice continuous running! They are also easy to walk around within! I wish I had designed something like that when I built mine! Good job!

Chad


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## trnfn69 (Jan 21, 2012)

With the exception of the half wall on the south east corner, I have to keep that straight to the outside wall, that is one hell of a plan.:thumbsup: I'm still really liking that aluminum bridge in your previous post as a cool option. Even if I can keep it at the layout height and make it hinged to flip up.


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

I'd set it up as a point to point, but with return loops at each end. Make the return loops 2-3 tracks wide and you give yourself staging at each end to make it operational with trains coming/going from the layout.

Also plenty of room if you wanted to have a branch line go off below grade under the table to hidden staging....and while helix's do eat up a lot of room, you can hide them under the layout (if done strategically) and have scenery on the top-most level to minimize the trade-off....Tons of pics of all of this in my build thread.

Nice area.


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## trnfn69 (Jan 21, 2012)

Started to go over your build thread sst, looks like I've got a long road ahead of me. Nice looking layout I must say. Guess I'll be brushing up on carpentry and wiring skills as soon as basement is finished.


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## trnfn69 (Jan 21, 2012)

Well I must say Scott I'm both impressed and intimidated by how well your layout looks.:smilie_daumenpos: I believe I will need a beer fridge nearby to dip into when building begins, in order to stay relaxed and fight off the frustration. I would have to assume you have great patience for the details on the benchwork. When all is said and done will your bottom staging level have any scenery, or will it be left as is? Do you build it first then the main layout over top?


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

The build thread is in chronological order. I built the staging area first. Around page 5 is where I added the deck above staging. If you need any pics of how I did something, just let me know.

Oh yeah....beer helps - just keep your fingers away from the saws.


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## trnfn69 (Jan 21, 2012)

What kind of radius will I need on a helix to come up from a staging area to the main lift should I go that route? I have a 6 axle athearn loco that I'd like to try if I go that route. Better yet would that take up to much room?


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## cabledawg (Nov 30, 2010)

I've seen helices done is as little as 22"R but it seems the ideal is about 30-34"R due to the long, long curve going up. The larger the radius, the more space its going to take up, but the less slope you have


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Mine is ~26" radius.


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