# Couplers - which to get?



## Russell (Dec 11, 2009)

Intro: I’m new, but not really, to the hobby. About 25 years ago I had a simple layout for my teenage boys and a bit later for my daughter. When they moved on to other things, I packed it all up and put it away in boxes. Now I’m a grandfather and retired and so I’ve taken it all out again for myself as much as for my grandchildren. I will be posting a series of questions over the next few weeks. I hope they’re not too troublesome.

The first has to do with couplers. The locomotives back then were both Athearn and the couplers are what was standard (I guess) back then. I don’t know the name. My recent locomotives are from Atlas and have what Atlas calls AccuMate couplers. I want my old boxcars and such to be usable with the new locomotives. Should I switch the old couplers to AccuMates, should I switch the AccuMates to the older ones, or should I get something else entirely? Which couplers are best and why? Which are the worst and why? 
I will not be running very long trains, maybe 10 cars at the most.


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## aionta (Apr 9, 2010)

*Welcome Abord Russell*

Hello Russell

I too have just restarted in the hobby.

Couplers these days are a lot more prototypical ( like the real thing)
The brand I have heard most is Kaydee www.kaydee.com


I found something online that said that Atlas accu mate couplers mate well with other knuckle style couplers. If that is the case, then you could replace your old couplers with kaydee or accu-mate.

I am sure other more long time modelers will have more to add about which is better etc. 

Welcome aboard

Aaron


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## tooter (Feb 26, 2010)

I exclusively use Kadee #148 couplers on all the old stuff I get, and have yet to come across an application for which I haven't been able to make them work. 










Greg


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

I use the Accu mate couplers because they are about half the cost of the KDees. I have never had an issue that I did not cause. If you have several existing cars that have the horn hook (older style) couplers you may want to make a conversion car. To do this just place the newer style coupler at one end and at the other the older style.


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## tankist (Jun 11, 2009)

old couplers you probably reffer to horn-hook. new ones are "knucle" couplers . compatible ones made by different comapnies

same as Greg Choo choo - I'm finishing up conversion to Kadee #148. got 25 pair bulk-pack and replacing even the knuckle mchenrie couplers that came with newer athearn cars. accumate split couplers are definetly going off too. i don't get why these would be used.

BTW, if anyone interested in mchenrie and accumate couplers at reduced price - let me know


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

tkruger said:


> If you have several existing cars that have the horn hook (older style) couplers you may want to make a conversion car. To do this just place the newer style coupler at one end and at the other the older style.


Ditto. Great simple tip for getting up and running in the interim quickly.


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## Bman (Aug 24, 2010)

I really like Kadee couplers as well. I recently replaced some of the couplers that were not working on a few of my freight cars with the EZ mate couplers, I picked them up for a $1 a pair at the LHS. So far they are working pretty good, I only bought two pair. 

Most of my older cars have the couplers attached directly to the trucks. Would the Kadee #148 couplers be a direct replacement in this application? Or do you mount the 148's to the frame and replace the trucks?


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## AllenB (Oct 21, 2009)

I've used Kadee also but MAN they make a bagillion different kind. It seems like many of them drag the ties especially through switches. I end up having to cut the tips off of them so they don't drag. I've not used anything but Kaydee. They seem to be the most prevalent out there.

Allen


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## Smokestack Lightning (Oct 31, 2010)

I just recently replaced some broken couplers with EZ mates. No complaints. The ones I got are brown, so they are easy to weather.


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## mr_x_ite_ment (Jun 22, 2009)

Hey Russell...if the old couplers work well enough, you can always do like tkruger said and make one car that has two different couplers on it...one new one, and one old one.

If you want them all the same, it wouldn't be a big deal to switch them all either.

Chad


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## gc53dfgc (Apr 13, 2010)

if you want to get the best couplers possibly for your trains that will last the longest and work the best you need to go to rapido and check out their cartier knuckle couplers they are not out yet if i recall but are going to be the best available for model trains.


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## Smokestack Lightning (Oct 31, 2010)

gc53dfgc said:


> if you want to get the best couplers possibly for your trains that will last the longest and work the best you need to go to rapido and check out their cartier knuckle couplers they are not out yet if i recall but are going to be the best available for model trains.


Cartier? I can already tell I can't afford them.


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## gc53dfgc (Apr 13, 2010)

sure you can it is only 7 dollars for a pair of for of them.


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## gc53dfgc (Apr 13, 2010)

plus they operate in temperatures of -28.7 degrees celciues


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## Russell (Dec 11, 2009)

Gentlemen, thank you one and all. I like the tip of changing one coupler on a car with the said coupler hooking up to the locomotive. It’s cheap and will be a start. I’ll stick to the Accumates for now and see how it goes. If I feel dissatisfied I’ll consider a change. 
The Kadees puzzle me with all the different kinds. Also looking at their web page, as suggested by Aron, I did not understand the idea of gears as it relates to couplers. 
Also thanks for the laughs. I too can't afford anything named Cartier. 

If there are more suggestions, I'll read them carefully.

My next needy thread will deal with locomotives


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## Smokestack Lightning (Oct 31, 2010)

gc53dfgc said:


> plus they operate in temperatures of -28.7 degrees celciues


They'll work perfectly in my walk in cooler setup:thumbsup:


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## gc53dfgc (Apr 13, 2010)

yep, you should read rapido's disclaimer first though 
Disclaimers: -28.7 degrees operation achieved under laboratory conditions. Actual reliable operating temperature may be completely, totally or ridiculously different. Rapido accepts no responsibility for frostbite, hypothermia, or pneumonia that might be contracted while checking the validity of our claims. Rust coloring looks really cool, but does not effect the operation of the couplers, which work, like, really well, eh?


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## gc53dfgc (Apr 13, 2010)

I also found the perfect present for Boston & Maine at rapido also
http://www.rapidotrains.com/schemes_ho/bm1.html

(now if i could only convert him to the world of HO)


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## mr_x_ite_ment (Jun 22, 2009)

I might actually need my couplers to be good down to -28.7 deg. My layout is in my UN-insulated shop and it gets very cold in there. I don't run trains much below 20 degrees, as it is pretty stiff for them to get going. Some trains do better than others with the cold!


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## aionta (Apr 9, 2010)

*Sergent Couplers*

Another more expensive alternative is
Sergent Couplers

http://www.proto87.com/model-railroad-couplers.html


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## gc53dfgc (Apr 13, 2010)

those have got to be the most realistic couplers ever plus they look like they uncouple a lot easier than the kaddes do with that wand it uses.


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## aionta (Apr 9, 2010)

*yes very nice*

very nice but could get costly if you were to replace all couplers on all rolling stock and engines.

One can dream


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## tankist (Jun 11, 2009)

Smokestack, if you really do use EZ couplers i have a bunch of em i will never use. if you in need of any they can be yours at 50c a pair 
let me know


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## Russell (Dec 11, 2009)

I went to a local hobby shop, in Dorval (Montreal), which I just learned about, to buy some couplers to join my new locomotives with AccuMates and my very old rolling stock with the old horn hook couplers. At the back they had a test track, free coffee and another customer suggested Kadee #5 and so that's what I got. As TKruger suggested a put the Kadees on my locomotive and on one end of one of my old box cars. Coupled, they have circled the layout maybe 30 times and are doing fine. Before leaving the shop I drooled before the showcases filled with locomotives. Outside real CN locomotives raced by with real weathering on them . When I got home, my wife asked, "What took so long." I explained that the traffic had been horrible .

I thank you all for your suggestions, your help, and your good will.

Also, Happy Thanksgiving to all of you south of the soon to be white north.


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## mr_x_ite_ment (Jun 22, 2009)

Hey Russell...I am up here in the white north too (is snowing right now even). It sounds like you had a "victory" with model railroading! I am am always excited when a simple fix produces great results. You can always leave all the horn-hook cars coupled together and add them on at the end of any consist that you do.

I have gotten addicted to looking at all the different locomotives too. I have tried to own every locomotive that I have seen in real life. Right now I have about 24 locomotives.

Chad


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## gc53dfgc (Apr 13, 2010)

hey i know this is going to sound stupid but is there a way to uncouple kadee's without actually lifting the whole car up off of the other coupler?


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## mr_x_ite_ment (Jun 22, 2009)

I have a tool that is an angled, sharp-pointed instrument (I think it is used in a soldering kit). It works great to insert between the couplers and give a little turn of the wrist...and the couplers separate.


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## Russell (Dec 11, 2009)

I know very little and until a few weeks ago my locomotives and cars were packed away in cardboard boxes but I won't let that stop me. . When I went to the hobby shop I saw that on their test track they had a magnet that uncoupled cars when they went over it at low speed. I guess most regulars are familiar with this. For me it was a revelation.

P.S. So where are you Chad to be having snow. We're supposed to get our first shipment tomorrow.


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## mr_x_ite_ment (Jun 22, 2009)

Russell...I am in eastern North Dakota. We have had snow on and off for the last two days. I don't know much about those magnetic uncouplers. I think they would work well if you are always parking railcars in the same spot (like after a turnout in a yard). I guess they have an uncoupling wand now that you just wave over the magnetic couplers, and they come apart.

Chad


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## Russell (Dec 11, 2009)

Hi Chad, I just checked your Dakota on Google Map. Ha-ha, the great white north, as in north U.S. You're so right, North Dakota is all north of Montreal. Must get pretty cold. 

Last year my wife and I drove through South Dakota and I took this photo. What got my attention was the animal out of place. If you look closely you'll see it.


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## mr_x_ite_ment (Jun 22, 2009)

Hey Russell...is quite the picture there...is kind of like Sesame Street where one thing is not like the other! Yes, we get VERY cold here. My layout is out in my un-heated shop...no running trains for me when it is below about 15 or 20 degrees! Take care my friend!

Chad


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

Russell said:


> Intro: Should I switch the old couplers to AccuMates, should I switch the AccuMates to the older ones, or should I get something else entirely? Which couplers are best and why? Which are the worst and why?
> I will not be running very long trains, maybe 10 cars at the most.


I have two Atlas GP38s that I purchased ten years ago. They're still running with their original Accumate couplers. This is really saying something when you think of how much switching I've done with them over the years, and with all the constant pushing and pullng. Anyway, they've been compatable with both EZ Mate and McHenry couplers.

The McHenry couplers that have come with my Athearn cars have worked very well . But unfortunately, they have been fast in wearing out. In addition, sometimes I've had a little problem with the McHenrys coupling and uncoupling. Yet, the McHenrys that came with my Athearn GP35, I've never had any problems with at all, and after almost two years, they're still working great. 

I know that the majority of model railroaders swear by Kadees. I however, have just never had very much luck with them at all. For one thing, I have found that they sometimes have been very time consuming and a real hassel to install, to say the least. Not only this, but I like running multible engines, and sometimes with Kadees, this can lead to a shorting out problem. So rather than working for a couple of hours trying to insulate them, I just purchased EZ Mates, and the shorting out problem was solved forever. 

So, which do I like the best? The EZ Mates. Why? Simply because in all around service, they've worked very well and have proven to be the easiest and fastest to install. Not only this, but I can purchase them in bulk quanity at a very low price, and in addition, when using them I can run as many engines together as I want without having to needlessly deal with the metal coupler problem. .........But then what about the Accumates in my two Atlas GP38s, and the McHenrys in my Athearn GP35? Hey, as long as they continue to work good in the operations I put them through, why change them?

So I guess in the final annalysis, which coupler is the best or the worst? I think that this question would be best answered by each individual modeler based on his or her own unique experience with them.

Routerman


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## Russell (Dec 11, 2009)

Thanks Routerman.

In passing, off topic, I kind of wish I were in Georgia too. It's cold here. This might be my car, I'm not sure yet.


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## MattyVoodoo (Oct 26, 2010)

I agree, Kaydee make many versions, one code they make are slightly larger for ho scale size for accurate showing and they do have a tendency to hook points and frogs, but they are reliable. But have also heard good things about the EZmate's too, although never tried them!


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