# 302 AC purchase



## midlifekrisiz (Jan 29, 2013)

$70 for the lot  











cast unit and tin tender
smoke & chug in unit










wouldn't run so a tear down of tender and unit and some cleaning and can get buzz from tender but no action from unit










was a tad bit dirty in there so cleaned it up a bit everything look just fine.










took the tender off the 301 and plugged into the 302 and it worked just fine so the problem is narrowed down to the tender


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Sounds like the problem is the reverse unit drum just not rotating -- some cleaning and it should rolling on those rails real soon.


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## midlifekrisiz (Jan 29, 2013)

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> Sounds like the problem is the reverse unit drum just not rotating -- some cleaning and it should rolling on those rails real soon.


thats what I am thinking as well...going to clean that tonight.

what oil do I use in the smoke unit in this ???


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## Strummer (Jan 6, 2013)

midlifekrisiz said:


> what oil do I use in the smoke unit in this ???


My personal preference is "Anormal1" brand. Smells good, works well, and is "grown" right here in the Great Northwest...

Mark in Oregon


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## midlifekrisiz (Jan 29, 2013)

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> Sounds like the problem is the reverse unit drum just not rotating -- some cleaning and it should rolling on those rails real soon.


well hmmm I took it apart and cleaned the drum (didn't really need much) and put it back together as well fixed one ground and still all it does is click ....like it is in forward or reverse and still no action from the unit....hooked the 301 to 302 tender and still nothing....hooked 301 tender to new 302 unit and off she goes.

so I am thinking that I need a new reverse unit.


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

When it clicks is the drum rotating? If it is not, you need to clean the brass pawl on the side that advances the drum each time power is applied. In fact, clean everything inside the reverse unit as much as possible. Don't be afraid to shoot contact cleaner all over the inside of it. Wipe it down with Q-tips and paper towels until all the dirt and grit is gone. Make sure the finger contacts are in good shape and that they contact the drum properly when it rotates into position. Be sure they are in the correct position -- that someone didn't inadvertently swap them. The upper finger set is the offset one and the lower set is the centered one. Change with new ones if they show too much wear or are burned at their contact points. Check the lift plate to be sure it is clean and moving properly -- this is the plate that lifts each time power is applied to the coil which in turn activates the brass pawl 'ratchet' to rotate the drum one space. I know it sounds like a lot to go through, but my experiences have shown that with a good cleaning, and maybe new fingers and/or drum, any dirty reverse unit can be restored to working condition. Even though it's possible, it would be far-fetched to think this one needs replacing just yet. Last but not least, check the wiring to be sure everything is soldered tight and matches the applicable diagram. Here is the Port Lines reverse Unit Servicing Clinic link for you to review.....

http://www.portlines.com/portlinesclinic23.htm

There's also a set of wiring diagrams on his website to review.


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Oh, by the way -- did you check to be sure the locking lever isn't preventing the drum from rotating???


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

To answer the other question, no oil is used in the smoke unit unless the smoke fluid is what you refer to as "oil". Most Hobby Shops carry a bottle of smoke fluid that should work in the smoke unit. A few drops and it should smoke once again unless something is disconnected or the unit itself needs rebuilding. Sometimes the wick inside is so dried up, it takes a few doses of smoke fluid before it starts to respond. But go easy, too much will leak out and only get your engine dirty that you just cleaned.


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## midlifekrisiz (Jan 29, 2013)

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> When it clicks is the drum rotating? If it is not, you need to clean the brass pawl on the side that advances the drum each time power is applied. In fact, clean everything inside the reverse unit as much as possible. Don't be afraid to shoot contact cleaner all over the inside of it. Wipe it down with Q-tips and paper towels until all the dirt and grit is gone. Make sure the finger contacts are in good shape and that they contact the drum properly when it rotates into position. Be sure they are in the correct position -- that someone didn't inadvertently swap them. The upper finger set is the offset one and the lower set is the centered one. Change with new ones if they show too much wear or are burned at their contact points. Check the lift plate to be sure it is clean and moving properly -- this is the plate that lifts each time power is applied to the coil which in turn activates the brass pawl 'ratchet' to rotate the drum one space. I know it sounds like a lot to go through, but my experiences have shown that with a good cleaning, and maybe new fingers and/or drum, any dirty reverse unit can be restored to working condition. Even though it's possible, it would be far-fetched to think this one needs replacing just yet. Last but not least, check the wiring to be sure everything is soldered tight and matches the applicable diagram. Here is the Port Lines reverse Unit Servicing Clinic link for you to review.....
> 
> http://www.portlines.com/portlinesclinic23.htm
> 
> There's also a set of wiring diagrams on his website to review.


I did take it apart and clean it and make sure that everything was in good order and put it back together and still the same thing.....nothing obstructing ect.....it does everything that the other one does except give power to the unit.


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## midlifekrisiz (Jan 29, 2013)

me thinks someone messed with this one before I got it


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Yea, I'm getting the same feeling...you'll have to compare with one that works to see if there are differences.


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

That includes checking the wiring for correct routing -- don't like sounding like a broken record, but it has happened to me more than I care to admit.


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## midlifekrisiz (Jan 29, 2013)

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> That includes checking the wiring for correct routing -- don't like sounding like a broken record, but it has happened to me more than I care to admit.


Going to do this tonight with the tender for the 301 :thumbsup:


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Check your wiring.


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## midlifekrisiz (Jan 29, 2013)

wanted to see it smoke (or if it would) a few drops and the 301 tender and WALA!

sorry about the poor lighting and camera 

http://s58.photobucket.com/user/teamaerostar/media/1952 smoker/1952smoker001_zps6e7df2de.mp4.html

http://s58.photobucket.com/user/teamaerostar/media/1952 smoker/1952smoker002_zpsb3b2d234.mp4.html


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Still haven't figured out the tender problem yet?


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Sorry posted before I was ready ....

Smokes real well -- I'd compare the two tenders and the wiring in each to be sure they are the same.


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## midlifekrisiz (Jan 29, 2013)

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> Sorry posted before I was ready ....
> 
> Smokes real well -- I'd compare the two tenders and the wiring in each to be sure they are the same.


yes it does smoke very well. 

i have compared them and they are identical except for the shell.
so I have no idea why the tender will not send the power to the unit.


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Hmmmmm -- I sure am baffled for the moment. I can only suggest that one or more of the fingers have bad contacts or are not contacting the drum properly. I once had a replacement set of fingers where the copper strips were too long. When the drum rotated, the fingers would actually miss the contact surface on the drum. A slight bending and curving of the copper strips took care of that so it landed on the contact surface of the drum as it should. It took a long time before I noticed it and I did not see it until using a magnifying glass. May be something to look into??


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## The New Guy (Mar 11, 2012)

I bet you have a bad joint @ one of the trucks. I'd grab the multimeter and see what you get from rail through truck, wire, all the way through to the engine leads. 

GL with this.


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

I would still check each wire for conductivity using the multimeter set on resistance -- you get zero resisitance between the ends of a wire, it is good. You get infinite, there must be something wrong with it. That's the best I can offer right now.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

The New Guy said:


> I bet you have a bad joint @ one of the trucks. I'd grab the multimeter and see what you get from rail through truck, wire, all the way through to the engine leads.
> 
> GL with this.


If you mean the insulating bushings are bad on the truck, I would think there would be a short, causing your transformer to go into over-load, and shutting down.I'm going to say solder joint or the fingers not touching the drum.Use the toothpick method.. Put the e-unit in a forward or reverse direction, and using a toothpick, push against the fingers, causing them to come in contact with the drum. Just don't touch them with a bare finger!!!


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## midlifekrisiz (Jan 29, 2013)

flyernut said:


> If you mean the insulating bushings are bad on the truck, I would think there would be a short, causing your transformer to go into over-load, and shutting down.I'm going to say solder joint or the fingers not touching the drum.Use the toothpick method.. Put the e-unit in a forward or reverse direction, and using a toothpick, push against the fingers, causing them to come in contact with the drum. Just don't touch them with a bare finger!!!


I will give all these sudgestions a try as soon as I get a chance. (wife running me ragged with spring chores)


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Tender basics, each truck needs one side to have metal wheels. Each truck is isolated from the tender frame.


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

We don't mean to sound repetitive, but the problem has to be somewhere in the tender wiring or reverse unit itself. A wire may not be soldered properly or even broken somewhere inside the insulation. The only way to be sure it to check with a multi-meter or just add another wire between those two points. The reverse units don't "just go bad". They have moving parts which are replaceable. My guess is still that the fingers are not touching where they are supposed to on the drum surface -- had that happen to me twice because the copper fingers were produced too long to reach the drum at the correct point on the drum surface.

If worse comes to worse, you can always remove the reverse unit from the good tender and swap it in this tender and see if that works. But I would keep that as a last resort.


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## The New Guy (Mar 11, 2012)

The New Guy said:


> I bet you have a bad joint @ one of the trucks.





flyernut said:


> I'm going to say solder joint...


That's what I said and what I meant. If it seemed I implied insulator I apologize, that was not my intent.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

The New Guy said:


> That's what I said and what I meant. If it seemed I implied insulator I apologize, that was not my intent.


No worries my friend.


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