# Derail



## alaft61ri (Oct 11, 2019)

I been running mr k335 i bought a couple weeks ago went threw runs great except for one thing it derails but only in one spot ck track clean it really good it will go around about 2 or 3 times and derail same spot. Here is some picks look at the front piolt truck why does it do that be fore the spring on piolt was no good so neww one went.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

The pilot wheel flange is chipped but I do not think that is the cause.Take the two screws out of the track tie and run the engine and see what happens. Then put in just the screw on the inside of the cuve but do not tighten it more than just barely touching the top of the tie. Hopefully the engine will not derail. It has to be some minor issue with the track geometry at that track location.


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## alaft61ri (Oct 11, 2019)

Thankyou i will do that. And i agree withe track geometry.
Al


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## alaft61ri (Oct 11, 2019)

It worked eft out screws . you are a genius. Only must keep speed down transformer on 50 but goes slower than what lever says went around 6 times no problem looking for the 54" track saw some on ebay want a lot of money avereage price 10.00 a piece. I will wait .thanks again. Al


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Just a whole lot of experience with Gilbert track. The reason I do not like screws is it is too easy to spread or distort the ties when tightening them. This then causes low spots in the track rails. I only use small brads carefully put in with a tack hammer.


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## alaft61ri (Oct 11, 2019)

Ok thanks


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## Chuck7612 (Jul 2, 2017)

For some added insurance, I glue titanium weights to the top of the front half of the pilot.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Al, much of the K-Line wide curves does go for around 10.00 each piece. Keep watching. I have got 30 some curves
and paid less than 5.00 each piece. Keep looking.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

mopac said:


> Al, much of the K-Line wide curves does go for around 10.00 each piece. Keep watching. I have got 30 some curves
> and paid less than 5.00 each piece. Keep looking.


I think I sold you a bunch, didn't I?.. You can also make your own very easily. Dis-assemble your original Gilbert track, and using a jig with the proper radius, just bend it. I saw this on one of my flyer facebook pages.


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## alaft61ri (Oct 11, 2019)

Chuck7612 said:


> For some added insurance, I glue titanium weights to the top of the front half of the pilot.





Chuck7612 said:


> For some added insurance, I glue titanium weights to the top of the front half of the pilot.


Thanks that was my next thing to do.


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## alaft61ri (Oct 11, 2019)

No you didnt sell me any i will keep looking what mopac said is working. I will keep looking thankyou everyone for your help.

Al


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Hey flyernut, how you doing? Yes, I did get some wide curves from you. As much as I like the wide curves I would never pay 10.00 a stick.


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## alaft61ri (Oct 11, 2019)

Me either like i said just keep looking no hurry.
Al


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

mopac said:


> Hey flyernut, how you doing? Yes, I did get some wide curves from you. As much as I like the wide curves I would never pay 10.00 a stick.


See my above post you guys.. It's very easy to make wide radius curves from original flyer track!!.You'll have to take apart a wide radius curve to make the template, but when you have the template made, just put the track back together..The Gilbert rails will bend easily to the new template, and then just put the ties back..


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## AFGP9 (Apr 8, 2015)

AmFlyer said:


> Just a whole lot of experience with Gilbert track. The reason I do not like screws is it is too easy to spread or distort the ties when tightening them. This then causes low spots in the track rails. I only use small brads carefully put in with a tack hammer.


Exactly why I do not use screws or nails. As I have recounted here before, I use glued ballast to hold my track and it is solid. In all the years I've done this never a problem. I can't believe what the price of the K-Line/Lionel track has gotten to. I am so glad I bought all that I did way back when it was plentiful in hobby shops. 

Kenny


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Glued ballast is a great approach for layouts that will be semi permanent, plus it looks good. All of my layouts that used Gilbert track existed for three months or less.
The brads I use do not have flat heads like a nail. If hit too hard the head will go right through the holes in the ties. They are only for positioning the track.


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## alaft61ri (Oct 11, 2019)

I did take that section off still the same . so today i have to go in late foe work. So iam running the train and watching it and just before the curve i see sparks. So i stopped. Looked and this is what i found. So i took out that piece and short curve track. Look at track and blow up picture and you will see put another piece and cleaned works alot better. Thanks 
Al


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## alaft61ri (Oct 11, 2019)

Meant to put this post under slow down.
Al


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## AFGP9 (Apr 8, 2015)

AmFlyer said:


> Glued ballast is a great approach for layouts that will be semi permanent, plus it looks good. All of my layouts that used Gilbert track existed for three months or less.
> The brads I use do not have flat heads like a nail. If hit too hard the head will go right through the holes in the ties. They are only for positioning the track.


Tom based on your past job experience and multiple moves I can see why you wouldn't use the glued ballast method for securing track since it is meant for permeant layouts which mine is. The brad type you refer does make a good way to position track. I have used them for that very reason before. If you start with a good solid flat base, that is all you need. It does avoid any distorted track ties. 

Kenny


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## AFGP9 (Apr 8, 2015)

Al looking at your track pictures, aside from the scratches in the track rail head, the track itself shouldn't have caused derailments. Maybe some sparking. The rust on the ties, while not ideal, shouldn't have been a problem since it looks like all isolators are in place between track and the ties. Those scratches on the rail heads can be cleaned up since they hold dirt and maybe rust if you really need them. However, since you removed those pieces and cured your problem those track pieces can be used as scene pieces on a little used siding or the tail end of a yard track as they are. That is what I did with rusty track. I left the rust on the rail sides and ties. Once covered with ballast and some weeds, it looks pretty good. Just make sure you don't put them where a locomotive will run over them. Just cars parked on them. 

Kenny


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

The first concern I have with that piece of track is only the rail head clean, but even so there are scratches and pitting on it that will cause minor sparking. That in turn makes more pits in the rail. The second concern is the flanges below the web are rusted. These need to be completely cleaned and buffed before a 690 track clip could be attached and work well. I would not use this piece of track unless it was completely cleaned and buffed out which would be a lot of work.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Kenny, when I became aware of the Johnson repro rubber roadbed I placed an order for a sufficiently large quantity that I could have two simultaneous layouts. As I recall it was around 200 pieces. It has served well on a lot of layouts. I also really did have two layouts for a number of years but the second layout evolved to one that used SHS track and Legacy.


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## alaft61ri (Oct 11, 2019)

Thanks that post was supposed o go in slow down i wad having trouble on one end of track around the corner it would slow down . sorry . but thanks for the idear . one other thing what is ballast.

Al


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## alaft61ri (Oct 11, 2019)

I have replaced the track and really cleaned them good ism going to go thru them all ck them better thanks for the info it is running alot better. Thanks.
Al


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## AFGP9 (Apr 8, 2015)

Al, ballast is the rock you see on all real railroads. That and spikes driven into the ties through steel plates that over lap the rail flanges. Take a look at real rail. As to what you can use for Gilbert track, Woodland Scenics and some other market brands will do the trick. Be careful you don't get the stuff made for N or HO scale because it will be too small. The rock sizes for different gauges are listed. To me, besides holding my track in place, it just makes the whole thing look more prototypical from a modeling stand point, especially if you mix colors as the real railroads do. There are thousands of good layouts without ballast though, so it isn't a necessity. It all depends on your perspective and what look you are wanting to achieve. If you decide you want to do it, there is a procedure I have used over the years that I have found works the best. Let me know and I will explain. 

Kenny


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