# Flex Track Tips?



## MusicMajor (Jan 2, 2012)

I am new to using Flex Track, and most of the layouts I see are built of flex track for the most part. Would you fellow train members suggest using flex track over "normal" track? I use AnyRail to play with setups, and for most of my straight pieces I've used flex track to cut down on total number of pieces needed. Do the Pros use flex on the curves and all too? Or would it be suggested to use curved pieces to make my curved sections?


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

I love flextrack. I layout the track and tack it in a few places so that I can run my largest rolling stock through to make sure it all works, then trace the outline of the track on the plyboard with a Sharpie marker, mark the centerline, then lay my cork, etc down along that line and lay my track. 

For accurate curves, just make some radius templates out of poster board. Use a hole punch to make holes down the centerline of your desired radius, then you can just place the template on your table and mark through your template giving you a dead accurate line to lay your track against. Observe minimum radii requirements and give easements to your turnouts (curves used to smooth the transition into a turnout) and you should be just fine. 

If there is a particularly tricky section and you need an absolutely perfect curve, then use a piece of sectional track for that area only.


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## MusicMajor (Jan 2, 2012)

So you would suggest use flex as much as I can then? I only have two cars and an engine that no longer runs for my N Scale right now (been far to long since I've played with my trains) so I have a lot of investing to do. Thanks for the tip by the way.


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

I built my entire layout with flextrack - well over 300ft of it.

I glue the flextrack down to the cork with Alene's tacky glue and if the corner is really tight or where the track might see extra abuse I'll put in a track nail where needed.

I just like the design flexibility you get with flextrack, you're not confined to any set shape/curvature, etc. It makes it easier to fit the other standard pieces you need to get in as well (crossings, turnouts, etc.) because the track will always line up just right if you take your time when laying the track.


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## MusicMajor (Jan 2, 2012)

Very cool! Thanks man, I suppose my real planning will be at the table and not so much the computer, hard to work with flex track on the programs haha. Thank you for your time!


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Computer programming with pre-determined track is a good way to layout your basics, just don't get hung up when 2 pieces don't fit exactly right as flextrack will make up for this.


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## MusicMajor (Jan 2, 2012)

Very cool, I purchased AnyRail, but I can't seem to form a curve to save my life with the FlexTrack haha


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Std pieces will give you a guide on what curves you need to draw on the plyboard to accurately lay the track. Good planning is critical to a fun/functional layout. 

FWIW....I do all of my planning with a compass, scales, etc (I'm an Engineer) I've gotten pretty decent at actually building what I have drawn.

BTW....Welcome aboard.


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## MusicMajor (Jan 2, 2012)

Glad to be here. Thanks for the greetings! I suppose ill program it in with curves, and as I lay it out ill just use flex to keep it smooth.


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## Walman (Dec 18, 2011)

So to make a track radi template from posterboard I assume I just decide what radius I want (say 16.5"), use a large compass or the string method, to draw a 180 degree arc with the 16.5" radius, cut it out, and use that as the template? Did I under or overcomplicate that?

Walman


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Flex is a great asset. That said, it can be tricky to position and join the flex ends if you have inherent curvature at the endpoint. (The track wants to spring back.)

However, you can "prebend" the flex into your desired shape, in a manner that it will hold its curve. See Choo Choo Greg's thread ...

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=3931

Also, if possible, stagger your left/right rail end joints when assembling.

TJ


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## JohnAP (May 4, 2011)

*Hopefully some helpful tips*

I LOVE flex track! A couple things to keep in mind:

When you join flex track, you have to cut off a tie or two from the ends in order for the connectors to clear. Save the ties and cut/sand off the spike nibs and when your track has dried, slide the ties under the joint.

If you want to use continous full sections of flex track through curves, join the ends and solder the connections while the track is still straight, then bend it to the curve and glue it down. Wherever possible, plan your track runs to be able to make connections in straight sections. This will eliminate the need to solder, however soldering has the advantage of being a good way to kill two birds with one stone, as you can add power feedes at the same time.

When laying long lengths of straight track, the best gauge of straightness is the eyeball. I use track nails to hold the track in place while the glue dries. Get your eyeball as close to track level as possible and sight down your strech of track. Start at one end and pin down with track nails (or you could use t pins, etc) making sure it's straight as you progress down the line.

To lay parralel tracks, take a small block of wood and cut two saw grooves the distance you want, say 1". When you lay the track, put the adjacent rails of each track in the grooves, then just slide the block along the track as you go.

They make nice tools to do all these things, plus radius guides, etc. You can buy a set of these for around $20-$30. They also usualy include a soldering jig in the set.

Welcome to the forum, and Good Luck with your new addiction.....I mean hobby!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

JohnAP said:


> To lay parralel tracks, take a small block of wood and cut two saw grooves the distance you want, say 1". When you lay the track, put the adjacent rails of each track in the grooves, then just slide the block along the track as you go.


Good tip! :thumbsup:


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Walman said:


> So to make a track radi template from posterboard I assume I just decide what radius I want (say 16.5"), use a large compass or the string method, to draw a 180 degree arc with the 16.5" radius, cut it out, and use that as the template? Did I under or overcomplicate that?
> 
> Walman


I make the strip 2" wide with the centerline at your desired nominal radius (assume 24") By making it only 2" wide you allow the hole punch to reach in to the centerline @24", but you also get 23 & 25" templates at the same time along the edges of the template. Just write the centerline dimension on the template and you know you have +/-1" radii on that same template.

I used a swing of maybe 90 degrees to make the templates easier to handle, but you could always just fold a 180 template over on itself to make it just as easy to handle.


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## tommyboy (Jan 8, 2012)

Forgive a total newb, but is flex track track that can be contoured to the modeler's need?


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## Brakeman Jake (Mar 8, 2009)

Yes...and no.It does have it's limits.I model in N scale and although 9 3/4 in. radius is the "accepted" minimum radius(Atlas sectional track),I've found that flextrack has it hard being bent below 11 in. radius.It has the tendency to squeeze its gauge a little wich may cause problems with some locos.If one wants to go with very tight curves,he's better use sectional track.

Other than this,flextrack is the absolute best track to use as it can be customized in both radius and lengths to any specific needs.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Tommy,

HO flex usually comes in 36" lengths. I think N flex is 30" lengths. Atlas is one common mfr.

http://www.atlasrr.com/Images/Track/Trackphotos/2000.GIF

TJ


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## MusicMajor (Jan 2, 2012)

Thanks for all the responds, I had a loss of internet past few weeks so I'm sorry I haven't responded. I did read through here and I appreciate the time put in! I would of never thought to connect the flex tracks in a straight line before cutting them! That's going to save me a lot of head ache.


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