# Atlas Model Train Locomotive Motor Problem



## KisNap (Aug 4, 2014)

I got this new old stock locomotive at a show. I ran it the other day for about 10 minutes forward and backward, oiled the gears, then continued to run it for another 10. It ran beautifully.

I went to run it today and there's a problem with the motor. When I apply power (DC locomotive) the light goes on, but it doesn't move. If I manually spin the motor it starts and then stops. If I apply downward pressure without spinning the motor nothing happens, but if I apply pressure and spin the motor it will keep going. As soon as I remove the pressure it stops again. Any thoughts? The loco is probably from a 1997 run.

Here's a video of the issue.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

it's -probably- not the track or the wheels ..
it -may- be the joints or connections on the split halves, or higher up .. maybe ??


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Some possibilities*

Kisnap;

Since you have to spin the commutator to start the motor, It either has a mechanical bind that keeps the commutator from spinning until you force it, or it isn't getting power reliably through the chassis and whatever metal tabs feed power into the motor brushes OR it may have a burnt out, or disconnected, coil on the commutator.
I suggest first carefully marking which way the motor is sitting in the chassis. This is so you can put it back in the same way it came out. Unscrew the two halves of the chassis and remove the motor. Test the motor itself with your power pack. If it starts without your assistance, clean the copper tabs on the commutator ring with alcohol and a Q-tip. Clean the bearings the same way, then add a single drop of oil to each bearing. If the motor now self starts and can run reliably at slow speed, it's OK. 

If the motor test shows it to be good, the problem must be inside the locomotive chassis. While you have it apart, check the gears for any binding, old grease that's turned solid, missing teeth, etc. From your video (which was a very smart idea) I doubt the gears are the main problem, but it cant hurt to clean them, and add a dot of plastic compatible grease, or oil, to them. The next thing I'd check, clean, or maybe eliminate altogether, are any metal tabs that transfer power from the wheel wipers up to the motor. You can't get a more reliable power path than tiny, (28-32Ga.?) flexible wires soldered to the wipers, and to the motor brush housings. The fact that the motor runs better, and drives the loco forward, only when you push down on it concerns me. When you spin start the motor, do the loco's wheels turn reliably? If not then the motor shafts aren't connecting, mechanically, with the gear train properly. That's something of a long shot, since both the motor, and the gears, are held firmly in place within the halves of the split frame.

good luck;

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


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## KisNap (Aug 4, 2014)

turned out to be a copper contact that was folded back preventing contact to the frame. Works now. Thanks for the help.


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## biglionelguy (Nov 11, 2015)

I’d be willing to bet you have a poor connection on the circuit board to the motor. Loosen the frame halves enough to get the board out and bend the copper motor table up so you get better contact with the contacts on the bottom of the circuit board.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

biglionelguy said:


> I’d be willing to bet you have a poor connection on the circuit board to the motor. Loosen the frame halves enough to get the board out and bend the copper motor table up so you get better contact with the contacts on the bottom of the circuit board.


Well, I'd be willing to bet that "it turned out to be a copper contact that was folded back preventing contact to the frame...", as the OP said in the post right above yours, which was made 6 weeks before you posted your reply....


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## biglionelguy (Nov 11, 2015)

Well I’d be willing to bet you’re a pretty big douche. Seems like n scalers have become less friendly since I moved to O scale a few years ago. Sorry if all the other forums I visit have postings on the first page of minutes old and not 6 weeks


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## rrjim1 (Mar 12, 2015)

biglionelguy said:


> Well I’d be willing to bet you’re a pretty big douche. Seems like n scalers have become less friendly since I moved to O scale a few years ago. Sorry if all the other forums I visit have postings on the first page of minutes old and not 6 weeks


I going to agree with you on the most part except his signature list HO only.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

biglionelguy said:


> Well I’d be willing to bet you’re a pretty big douche. Seems like n scalers have become less friendly since I moved to O scale a few years ago. Sorry if all the other forums I visit have postings on the first page of minutes old and not 6 weeks


Good grief. Most of the other people I know have the good grace to laugh at themselves when they make a mistake. I guess O scaler's don't have that capacity.


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