# Got the first "leg" of the wall train done......



## juststartingout

Whew....what a pain! For any of you who might try this, a laser level is a necessity.....at least for me it was. 

Now, if I could just find some 6" wide board that doesn't curve or twist.

Oh yea, I still need the 027 track. 

Gunrunner, I will be in touch if the deal I made over the weekend doesn't pan out.


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## gunrunnerjohn

I'm sure a level would be a key piece of equipment for a run that long!  I wonder if my grandson would like a train running around his room?


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## juststartingout

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I'm sure a level would be a key piece of equipment for a run that long!  I wonder if my grandson would like a train running around his room?


Not just a level.....a LASER level. I have several of the "regular" levels. 

The LASAR level allowed me to locate several brackets without having to move the level or measuring tape. But I'm sure you already knew that


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## erkenbrand

That's looking good. I'm going to be doing the same thing in a room here. I'll take your suggestion of a laser level.


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## tjcruiser

... or a poor man's level ... 

A cheap long length of clear tubing (say 30' or so) filled up most of the way with water ... add some a few drops of food coloring. Hold both ends of the tube vertically pointing to the ceiling, with each end at opposite sides of the room. The water level shown will be dead-level between them. Mark, and repeat the process around the room. If the marks are not at your desired height, simply measure up from that datum reference to your final target.

No batteries required.

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn

juststartingout said:


> Not just a level.....a LASER level. I have several of the "regular" levels.
> 
> The LASAR level allowed me to locate several brackets without having to move the level or measuring tape. But I'm sure you already knew that


Yep, I have several types of laser levels, they are handy for room-sized projects.


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## juststartingout

tjcruiser said:


> ... or a poor man's level ...
> 
> 
> No batteries required.
> 
> TJ


Yea, but I'd need a bunch of towels after I spilled the water.........


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## gunrunnerjohn

I can just imagine handling a room sized tube of water! Note that the water "level" only works if the tube is straight, no such problem with a laser level. 

Truthfully, old time carpenters used chalk lines with standard levels for this work.


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## tjcruiser

John, etc.

I think you might be missing the concept. Think of this simply as a long, thin-diameter hose (clear walled), with most of the hose coiled randomly on the room floor. Only the two ends of the hose are raised vertically (or near vertically) along the faces of opposite walls. The hose is mostly filled with water, such that the left-vertical portion and the right-vertical portion share a common-height water level at some point up the wall face. As long as the ends of the hose are uncapped, the water level (both left and right points) will be dead-level ... quite accurate, actually. Now, simply (with a partner), move the two ends of the hose around the room, and mark the water level on the wall. Repeat. You'll create a dead-horizontal (level) datum reference.










Apologies for the thread sidebar.

TJ


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## juststartingout

tjcruiser said:


> John, etc.
> 
> I think you might be missing the concept. Think of this simply as a long, thin-diameter hose (clear walled), with most of the hose coiled randomly on the room floor. Only the two ends of the hose are raised vertically (or near vertically) along the faces of opposite walls. The hose is mostly filled with water, such that the left-vertical portion and the right-vertical portion share a common-height water level at some point up the wall face. As long as the ends of the hose are uncapped, the water level (both left and right points) will be dead-level ... quite accurate, actually. Now, simply (with a partner), move the two ends of the hose around the room, and mark the water level on the wall. Repeat. You'll create a dead-horizontal (level) datum reference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies for the thread sidebar.
> 
> TJ


Thanks the clairification!

I'm sticking with the laser...........


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## gunrunnerjohn

Ditto, I'll use the laser level, and I don't have to mop up the water after the project.


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## joe7034

I just finished running an 11 X 15 around the room, I used 1 by 7 inch boards. Instead of the level, I measured down from the ceiling and marked the the top hole of each bracket. That seemed to be the easiest way for me. I have O-27 and N gauage running at the same time. I will try and post some pictures.


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## juststartingout

joe7034 said:


> I just finished running an 11 X 15 around the room, I used 1 by 7 inch boards. Instead of the level, I measured down from the ceiling and marked the the top hole of each bracket. That seemed to be the easiest way for me. I have O-27 and N gauage running at the same time. I will try and post some pictures.


Exactly the size boards I'm using. My son wants to run 2 O gauge on it.


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## gunrunnerjohn

All these ceiling trains are making me think...


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## juststartingout

Ready for Paint and track!


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## gunrunnerjohn

Do the curves stay on the base on those corners? Looks like they'd hang over without support.

Interesting wall hangings and art on the door.  What are all those holes that missed the silhouette?


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## juststartingout

The 42" curves actually stay on top of the boards with no overhang. 

As for the wall hanging, my son did that.........;-)


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## gunrunnerjohn

Odd, those corners don't seem wide enough, what can I say. How wide is the shelf?


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## juststartingout

The boards are 7-1/2" wide. I will lay some curves on them later and post a pic.


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## gunrunnerjohn

I believe. I just cut some 7 1/2" strips and laid them on an O31 curve, plenty of room. If you have track close to the edge you'd have a problem.


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## servoguy

TJ,
If you connect the top ends of the vertical tubes with another tube, the level still works and you can't spill the water.

juststartingout, I recommend you put some kind of guard fence to prevent the train from falling off of the shelf. I have heard too many stories of engines taking a nose dive off of a shelf like yours.

BB


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## tjcruiser

Not to dispute you guys, but ...

I fail to see how a 42" curve (42" outside diam, 21" outside radius) is going to fit on 7" wide boards without being forced to jam the straight track directly up against the wall.

I guess it's possible if you have the track "hanging in air" over some distance on that inside corner.

I believe on track of O31 would fit OK (per John), but I do NOT believe that you'll fit O42 comfortably.

(I'm looking at this quickly in AutoCAD.)

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn

It did surprise me as well. 

I have to go with TJ here, I don't see a 42" curve fitting here.

I "built" a shelf and tested the corner with O31 track, it fits, but it's close. I don't see you getting any closer to the walls. This is 7" wide.


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## erkenbrand

I'm going to second servoguy's recommendation about building a guardrail. Believe me, you need it. Even if you don't think you - you do. I didn't have a guard rail and watched in horror as my engine and it's train of cars took a 4' tumble. Now, I have a guard rail around everything.


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## juststartingout

Well, the boards are up and look good! 

Gunrunner, you were correct sir, the track, unless I shove it way back in the corner, does have some overhang.

My son wants the train as close to the edge as possible, so I'm going to add some square supports or something in the corners.


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## gunrunnerjohn

After looking at my "shelf", I figured it has to be close.  A little corner piece will do the trick, shouldn't be that difficult to add. I'd probably add a triangular piece.

Remember those railings...


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## juststartingout

gunrunnerjohn said:


> After looking at my "shelf", I figured it has to be close.  A little corner piece will do the trick, shouldn't be that difficult to add. I'd probably add a triangular piece.
> 
> Remember those railings...


Yep, If you look closely at the supports, you can see an opening in the ends. I'm gonna try to find someting to stick in there and the string some coated wire between.


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## erkenbrand

Once you get it all up and going, it'll be the perfect time to add a couple of switches and create a 'tunnel' into the next room over.


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## gunrunnerjohn

Boy, this could get complicated!


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## tjcruiser

juststartingout said:


> Gunrunner, you were correct sir, the track, unless I shove it way back in the corner, does have some overhang.


Ahem ...



tjcruiser said:


> Not to dispute you guys, but ...
> 
> I fail to see how a 42" curve (42" outside diam, 21" outside radius) is going to fit on 7" wide boards without being forced to jam the straight track directly up against the wall.
> 
> I guess it's possible if you have the track "hanging in air" over some distance on that inside corner.
> 
> I believe on track of O31 would fit OK (per John), but I do NOT believe that you'll fit O42 comfortably.
> 
> (I'm looking at this quickly in AutoCAD.)
> 
> TJ


A gold star comin' my way, huh ?!?



Extra "corner" boards (45-degree traingles) to fill in a bit should work just find. Just make sure when you position your track that you do NOT push the beginning of the curve sections too close to the wall. Any loco or car will encompass quite a bit of overhang outside of the track (towards the wall) when making this straight-to-curved transition.

TJ


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## juststartingout

tjcruiser said:


> Ahem ...
> 
> 
> 
> A gold star comin' my way, huh ?!?
> 
> 
> 
> Extra "corner" boards (45-degree traingles) to fill in a bit should work just find. Just make sure when you position your track that you do NOT push the beginning of the curve sections too close to the wall. Any loco or car will encompass quite a bit of overhang outside of the track (towards the wall) when making this straight-to-curved transition.
> 
> TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn

I have several locomotives that would have trouble without the track being pretty close to the outside edge. There are some 6 wheel trucks that have a large overhang on the curves, probably not candidates for this track.


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## tjcruiser

Scott,

I got a good chuckle out of that shining star! Made my day!

Per comments above (me, John, etc.), do a few position tests to see the overhang requirements of your various locos/cars.

Are you planning on mounting the track directly to the wood boards, or perhaps putting some sort of a cushion between the two? I'd higly recommend the latter, both for noise and vibration dampening. It's high enough that you're eye won't really see whatever you use ... maybe some rubbery craft foam, like you would buy in colored sheets at Michael's craft store and the like?

Looking forward more project details.

Cheers,

TJ


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## joe7034

I used the standard lionel fast track curves. They hang over the corners about an inch to an inch and a half. I used plexi-glass and slid them under the corners and they hold nicely, I am still trying to figure out how post the pictures 

joe


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## sstlaure

joe7034 said:


> I used the standard lionel fast track curves. They hang over the corners about an inch to an inch and a half. I used plexi-glass and slid them under the corners and they hold nicely, I am still trying to figure out how post the pictures
> 
> joe


Go to the "Post a Reply" button - once the new window opens go to the additional options section and click "Manage Attachments" You can upload your pics.

If you want them to show up in your post as a picture - once you've uploaded them per the above, right click on the file name and "Copy Shortcut" Paste it into your text and put







at the end. It should show up just fine.


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## gunrunnerjohn

sstlaure said:


> If you want them to show up in your post as a picture - once you've uploaded them per the above, right click on the file name and "Copy Shortcut" Paste it into your text and put
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at the end. It should show up just fine.


Or just click on the







in the full reply window and paste the link there, no need to type in the







stuff.


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## tankist

how to post pictures with pictures
Help forum that has Helpful stuff. i guess nobody expected that


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## NIMT

You can get cheap thin foam that they use for concrete expansion joints.
You can also get rolls of foam for click lock floating floor.
They are both about 1/16 inch thick and will cut the noise down allot!


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## tjcruiser

Sean,

Good thought on the floating floor foam padding ... I used that under my O layout board, and had forgotten about it!

TJ


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## Big Ed

What are the white tube things hanging on the wall?

Jet eye, laser fighting swords?


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## juststartingout

big ed said:


> What are the white tube things hanging on the wall?
> 
> Jet eye, laser fighting swords?


EXACTLY! I gotta watch what I take pics of. You guys are "too observant":laugh:


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## Big Ed

juststartingout said:


> EXACTLY! I gotta watch what I take pics of. You guys are "too observant":laugh:



I was just kidding.:laugh:

My kids had some cheap ones when they were little and they sort of reminded me of them.

I though maybe, somehow, they were your laser levels and I was trying to figure out how they worked.hwell::laugh:

Not to much goes unnoticed to Ed's eyes.


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## juststartingout

big ed said:


> I was just kidding.:laugh:
> 
> My kids had some cheap ones when they were little and they sort of reminded me of them.
> 
> I though maybe, somehow, they were your laser levels and I was trying to figure out how they worked.hwell::laugh:
> 
> Not to much goes unnoticed to Ed's eyes.


I wish his were cheap ones.....he's ready to sell em...........


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## Big Ed

juststartingout said:


> I wish his were cheap ones.....he's ready to sell em...........



tell him 40 years from now they will be worth big bucks.:thumbsup:

my twins are 18 now and up in the what used to be the walk in closet is just about every toy they ever got!
you can't even get in it it is so filled.

I have been saying for 5 years now we are going to clean it and sell it.

one of these centuries we will!


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## juststartingout

tjcruiser said:


> Scott,
> 
> I got a good chuckle out of that shining star! Made my day!
> 
> Per comments above (me, John, etc.), do a few position tests to see the overhang requirements of your various locos/cars.
> 
> Are you planning on mounting the track directly to the wood boards, or perhaps putting some sort of a cushion between the two? I'd higly recommend the latter, both for noise and vibration dampening. It's high enough that you're eye won't really see whatever you use ... maybe some rubbery craft foam, like you would buy in colored sheets at Michael's craft store and the like?
> 
> Looking forward more project details.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> TJ


Everybody needs a good chuckle now and then!:laugh: I know* I* do.......

Yep, I'm gonna put something up on the boards to help with sound. Thanks for the suggestion.:thumbsup:

Here is a pic of the supports I added to the corners. Need to paint the buttons though.


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## juststartingout

Had to make my 100th post!

Do I get some kind of free stuff or something?:laugh:

IVE BEEN PROMOTED TO BRAKEMAN COOL>>>>>>>


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## Dave Sams

The supports look good.

I'm wondering, what would have happened if you would have held your shelves out from the wall by 1"?

I'm not planning on wall tracks.........tonight.


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## tjcruiser

Scott,

I LIKE those corner "extensions" ... the way they "float" a bit away from the true corner is kind of cool and visually inviting. Nice job!

And a HUGE congrats on your 100th post ... great to have you around ... looking forward to lots of continued input on your part!

Ohh ... now that your a "centenarian", try using the little "mountain" icon to embed your pics directly into the post .. it'll stick the photo URL address between







tags.

Cheers,


TJ


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## juststartingout

Dave Sams said:


> The supports look good.
> 
> I'm wondering, what would have happened if you would have held your shelves out from the wall by 1"?
> 
> I'm not planning on wall tracks.........tonight.


Thanks.

I tried moving the shelves out a bit, it just didn't look right.

Well, it's a new day! building that wall layout tonight?


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## juststartingout

tjcruiser said:


> Scott,
> 
> I LIKE those corner "extensions" ... the way they "float" a bit away from the true corner is kind of cool and visually inviting. Nice job!
> 
> And a HUGE congrats on your 100th post ... great to have you around ... looking forward to lots of continued input on your part!
> 
> Ohh ... now that your a "centenarian", try using the little "mountain" icon to embed your pics directly into the post .. it'll stick the photo URL address between
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tags.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> TJ


Thanks TJ, I'm glad I found this site!










Looks like I need to cut the pic size DOWN though!


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## juststartingout

That's better!


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## gunrunnerjohn

I normally post pictures at 800x600.


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## joe7034

looks like I am a moron, how do you scale down the pictures to size the site needs
Helping me will get old soon


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## gunrunnerjohn

Well, there are a variety of graphic applications to do the trick, a free one is IrfanView.


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## tjcruiser

I use Microsoft Photo Editor on Windows XP ... lots of canned photo editing software can do this, too.


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## Big Ed

I like the bigger one better.

More detail.:thumbsup:


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## novice

You can also use Paint if you have windows - it's free and everyone has it.

To scale down - use Ctrl W enter 50 vertical and 50 horizontal to scale the image in half. I do it twice and seems to be the right size for forums.


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## juststartingout

Well, it's up and running! I used a roll of foam sill seal to dampen the noise. Worked GREAT!

Now, if I could just get my video uploaded.

Thanks for all the great suggestions.


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## gunrunnerjohn

Pictures... we need pictures!


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## juststartingout

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Pictures... we need pictures!


As requested sir!


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## Dave Sams

Too cool!:thumbsup:

Thanks for posting.

I'm still holding off my wall tracks, for now.


But a helix going up the the ceiling...........


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## gunrunnerjohn

That's great!  I'll bet he's thrilled!


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## tjcruiser

Scott,

FABULOUS!!! Really looks great. Nice job, and fast construction, too! Where did you mount the transformer?

You're close there on the crane-to-ceiling clearance, huh? I don't want to be hearing any "Boom Up!" commands issued!

Congrats on the setup ... really looks great!

TJ


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## juststartingout

tjcruiser said:


> Scott,
> 
> FABULOUS!!! Really looks great. Nice job, and fast construction, too! Where did you mount the transformer?
> 
> You're close there on the crane-to-ceiling clearance, huh? I don't want to be hearing any "Boom Up!" commands issued!
> 
> Congrats on the setup ... really looks great!
> 
> TJ


Hey, thanks for all the complements! Now I must run the power bus as one of the "senior members" on this site suggested!

The Transformer is not "mounted", it sits on my son's desk and power wires are hidden behind the curtain. Still have a bit of work to do there.








And that crane has 2" whole inches of clearance!


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## gunrunnerjohn

I think several of us suggested the power bus. An alternative would be to solder all the track sections, but the power bus will probably be easier.


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## juststartingout

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I think several of us suggested the power bus. An alternative would be to solder all the track sections, but the power bus will probably be easier.


And FASTER! We are going to get that done tonight!

We are also going to try to move the 42" curves and straight tracks out to the edge all the way around. 

We bought some 54" curves today......guess what's coming next..............


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## tjcruiser

juststartingout said:


> ......guess what's coming next..............


 ... I hope some sort of a guard rail! I'd hate to see Gravity win, here!

The dual-track setup should be great, but do be careful living near the edge!

TJ


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## juststartingout

tjcruiser said:


> ... I hope some sort of a guard rail! I'd hate to see Gravity win, here!
> 
> The dual-track setup should be great, but do be careful living near the edge!
> 
> TJ



















Plenty O room for another track!  Yep, gotta get cracking on the guardrail!

Wouldn't want to have one of my choo choo's hit the floor!


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## gunrunnerjohn

Need bigger corner pieces.


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## juststartingout

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Need bigger corner pieces.


Yep, got just enough wood and paint left...........

Geeze, I'll probably just change the width of the whole thing...


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## gunrunnerjohn

7.5" wide is going to be tight, but it might work. You'll have one train brushing the wall and the other one looking over the precipice.


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## erkenbrand

Wow, that's really looking good. Maybe you should add some lights up there . . . of course I'm addicted to adding lights to everything.


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## juststartingout

erkenbrand said:


> Wow, that's really looking good. Maybe you should add some lights up there . . . of course I'm addicted to adding lights to everything.


Lights........hmmmm. I bet my son would LOVE to be able to turn on lights up there!

I may add some dim rope lighting or something. GREAT idea, thanks!


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## juststartingout

gunrunnerjohn said:


> 7.5" wide is going to be tight, but it might work. You'll have one train brushing the wall and the other one looking over the precipice.


Yea, I know. I need to figure out how to SECURLY attach the track to the boards. Can't get my power screw driver up there. Too tight. A hammer and nails may work, but things are going to bounce around BIG time.

Any suggestions?


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## Dave Sams

juststartingout said:


> Yea, I know. I need to figure out how to SECURLY attach the track to the boards. Can't get my power screw driver up there. Too tight. A hammer and nails may work, but things are going to bounce around BIG time.
> 
> Any suggestions?















Start the screw with an awl and finish up the old fashoned way.

If you put a little bee's wax on the screw first, it will go right in.

You shouldn't need too may screws per side. I only have 2 on my figure 8.


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## tjcruiser

It'll be a bit tedious working overhead, but an awl (per suggestion above) and a stubby screwdriver (a ratchet one, if you have one) would do the trick.

Or ...

How easily are the planks removed? You could position your track (tape it down, if needed), mark your intended screw-mount holes with a Sharpie, then remove the track, take down the planks, drill your holes on the marks, etc. ... yeah, a bit of work with this, but ... an option ...

Cheers,

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn

My choice would be my 90 degree power screwdriver, with 6-7" clearance to the ceiling, that would be no sweat.


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## Big Ed

juststartingout said:


> Yea, I know. I need to figure out how to SECURLY attach the track to the boards. Can't get my power screw driver up there. Too tight. A hammer and nails may work, but things are going to bounce around BIG time.
> 
> Any suggestions?


Get a tight fit type of screw driver.


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## juststartingout

Dave Sams said:


> Start the screw with an awl and finish up the old fashoned way.
> 
> If you put a little bee's wax on the screw first, it will go right in.
> 
> You shouldn't need too may screws per side. I only have 2 on my figure 8.


Stubby ratchet screwdriver did the trick!


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## tjcruiser

Scott,

Just thinking out loud ...

For a guard rail, how about some 2" or 3" tall strips of 1/16" thick plexiglass screwed to the edges of your board? The thin plexi would be bendy enough to contour (more or less) to your corner chamfers.

Plexi can be ripped with a table saw. Sand the edges reasonably smooth, then "polish" them off with an old clothes iron.

Just an idea ...

TJ


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## juststartingout

tjcruiser said:


> Scott,
> 
> Just thinking out loud ...
> 
> For a guard rail, how about some 2" or 3" tall strips of 1/16" thick plexiglass screwed to the edges of your board? The thin plexi would be bendy enough to contour (more or less) to your corner chamfers.
> 
> Plexi can be ripped with a table saw. Sand the edges reasonably smooth, then "polish" them off with an old clothes iron.
> 
> Just an idea ...
> 
> TJ


Thanks for the idea! I was going to try to screw something to the edge of the boards!

I wonder if I can plexi in 5-6" wide strips.

Gonna google it now.


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## gunrunnerjohn

Or just run cheap trains.


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## juststartingout

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Or just run cheap trains.


That's what we are running now, but, the boy and I stopped at a train store (not a hobby shop) O gauge Lionel and MTH trains. oh MY, the kid saw a CSX enging for 
$700.......................it was something.................


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## gunrunnerjohn

Well, when you get into TMCC/Legacy stuff, the costs add up quickly!


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## juststartingout

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Well, when you get into TMCC/Legacy stuff, the costs add up quickly!


You aren't kidding! When I get the bucks though, I'm gonna get one of those fancy Lionel controllers AND that big bad engine we saw!!


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## gunrunnerjohn

I have a little stable of TMCC engines. I have my first real Legacy one in transit, I see it's in Phila about 30 miles from me being "sorted", so I should see it Tuesday. I'm eager to see how Legacy differs from plain TMCC.


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## juststartingout

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I have a little stable of TMCC engines. I have my first real Legacy one in transit, I see it's in Phila about 30 miles from me being "sorted", so I should see it Tuesday. I'm eager to see how Legacy differs from plain TMCC.


I don't know about TMCC, but that Legacy engine did everything but windows!

You're gonna love it I bet.

By the way, look out for an incoming PM.


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## tjcruiser

juststartingout said:


> I wonder if I can plexi in 5-6" wide strips.


Scott,

Your call here, obviously, but ...

If your plexi is that tall, it will certainly prevent the trains from falling over the edge, but you'll also inconveniently block yourself out of easy access to the trains for cleaning, service, etc.

My thought was that 3" or so would be enough of a barrier to prevent a fall, but would leave enough clear opening above the plexi such that you could easily reach over, grab and service a car, etc.

TJ


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## juststartingout

tjcruiser said:


> Scott,
> 
> Your call here, obviously, but ...
> 
> If your plexi is that tall, it will certainly prevent the trains from falling over the edge, but you'll also inconveniently block yourself out of easy access to the trains for cleaning, service, etc.
> 
> My thought was that 3" or so would be enough of a barrier to prevent a fall, but would leave enough clear opening above the plexi such that you could easily reach over, grab and service a car, etc.
> 
> TJ


Good point! I'm still thinking about a 2-strand cable guardrail. But I like the plexi idea.


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## tjcruiser

A cable guardrail could be quite nice. Screw vertical stanchions every 10" or so ... maybe made from small tubing? Drill horizontal holes through those at cable height. Pass cable through, wrapping around room. A small turnbuckle or two would allow you to tension things nicely.

I like your cable thinking ...

TJ


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## juststartingout

Hey Gunrunner,

Here's the engine that was demoed for me and my boy.

SWEET~

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXTgadcNeZU


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## Dave Sams

That is a cool engine. It cost almost twice as much as my first car!

Those Legacy locos just wouldn't work on my layout. I'm 027 all the way. It looks like they are geared up for the mega layouts.

Still, you said it all, "demonstrated for me and my boy". That's what it is all about.


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## juststartingout

Dave Sams said:


> That is a cool engine. It cost almost twice as much as my first car!
> 
> Those Legacy locos just wouldn't work on my layout. I'm 027 all the way. It looks like they are geared up for the mega layouts.
> 
> Still, you said it all, "demonstrated for me and my boy". That's what it is all about.


They demonstrated it on 031 curves! It looked good going around them.

Gotta have one....gotta have one......


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## gunrunnerjohn

I'd love to see the engine, but I'm having some issues with my Internet service. For some reason, I had to use a proxy server to get to the site, can't even ping it from my location. I'm going to have to get on Verizon's case today!


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## juststartingout

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I'd love to see the engine, but I'm having some issues with my Internet service. For some reason, I had to use a proxy server to get to the site, can't even ping it from my location. I'm going to have to get on Verizon's case today!


Maybe its better you NOT look. I'm looking at it EVERY chance I get......


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## Zemmy

*Cooool*

Nice! You've done what I'm planning. 

My goal is 2 tracks and O-72 curves. The question I have is what would be the minimum distance, center to center, that you would put the tracks. At the moment I don't have any thing BIG! but I want to leave it open for "Just in case I decide I want one".


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## gunrunnerjohn

juststartingout said:


> Maybe its better you NOT look. I'm looking at it EVERY chance I get......


I just looked. Eat your heart out, mine does all of that and more. It also has spiffy red/green running lights, they change colors on each end depending on the direction the train is running. It has fan driven smoke, the ditch lights that blink when the whistle is blown, etc. The speed control is great, you can roll out at less than 1/2" a second to start, barely moving. And, it'll haul a bunch of cars at that speed. 

I posted pictures in the Get anything new? thread.


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## joe7034

I hope these look alittle better 

joe


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## gunrunnerjohn

Where is this ceiling train? Do you have a thread here about it?


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## servoguy

Ceiling trains require magnetraction on the engine and all the cars. Otherwise they fall off of the ceiling.

BB


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## Big Ed

servoguy said:


> Ceiling trains require magnetraction on the engine and all the cars. Otherwise they fall off of the ceiling.
> 
> BB



And a metal ceiling too.:laugh:


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## servoguy

You don't need a metal ceiling, but stainless steel, brass, and wood rails are definitely out. And you need some NeBFe magnets. Actually, I have heard that this has been done.

BB


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## Big Ed

servoguy said:


> You don't need a metal ceiling, but stainless steel, brass, and wood rails are definitely out. And you need some NeBFe magnets. Actually, I have heard that this has been done.
> 
> BB



And they ran upside down!?

I would like to see that.:thumbsup:


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## Big Ed

:thumbsup:


seek and you shall find,










http://www.metro.co.uk/weird/426793-upside-down-train-set-to-save-space


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## gunrunnerjohn

That's pretty funny!


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## tjcruiser

servoguy said:


> Ceiling trains require magnetraction on the engine and all the cars. Otherwise they fall off of the ceiling.
> 
> BB



In the "What makes TJ laugh loudest in any given day?" department ...

YOU WIN!

:laugh::laugh::laugh:

Too funny!

TJ


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## novice

Is that a Train hat? LMAO - too funny.


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## Dave Sams

Those wacky Brits.


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## servoguy

TJ, I thought we were supposed to be having fun. A little humor is a good thing. 

Pro 17:22 A merry heart doeth good like a medicine: but a broken spirit drieth the bones. 

BB


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## gunrunnerjohn

In looking at your dual track layout, the inside track is pretty close to the wall. Have you insured that trains are not going to hit the wall on the corners?


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## juststartingout

gunrunnerjohn said:


> In looking at your dual track layout, the inside track is pretty close to the wall. Have you insured that trains are not going to hit the wall on the corners?


You bet cha!


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## Dave Sams

As Big Ed might say, Never enough time, money or walls.....:laugh:


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## juststartingout

*Started a bridge for the wall layout.*

I really need to stay out of Lowes! Passed the dowel section and a light went off.............


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## Big Ed

Good ideal.......add a light to it too.


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## juststartingout

big ed said:


> Good ideal.......add a light to it too.



I'm thinking LIGHTSSSSSSS


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## Big Ed

juststartingout said:


> I'm thinking LIGHTSSSSSSS



Blinking lights or red and green running lights.:thumbsup:

Nameplate too?


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## juststartingout

big ed said:


> Blinking lights or red and green running lights.:thumbsup:
> 
> Nameplate too?


And a small American flag hanging from the bottom............


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## tjcruiser

Scott,

Great idea with the bridge ... should look fabulous when installed!

Hey, nice miters, by the way. Do you prefer using the manual miter saw? Do you have a power chop saw?

TJ


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## juststartingout

tjcruiser said:


> Scott,
> 
> Great idea with the bridge ... should look fabulous when installed!
> 
> Hey, nice miters, by the way. Do you prefer using the manual miter saw? Do you have a power chop saw?
> 
> TJ


Thanks TJ,

I don't have a powered chopper.........

Actually, to cut this small stuff, I would probably still use the manual.


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## Dave Sams

juststartingout said:


> I'm thinking LIGHTSSSSSSS


Now you're talkin












I'm adding a few more of these this weekend.


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## juststartingout

Dave Sams said:


> I'm adding a few more of these this weekend.



Nice. I'm still trying to decide on the lighting up there. I want to light up the whole layout. Both tracks.


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## gunrunnerjohn

juststartingout said:


> Nice. I'm still trying to decide on the lighting up there. I want to light up the whole layout. Both tracks.


Consider the rope lights along the wall, they'll provide uniform lighting all along the track.


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## juststartingout

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Consider the rope lights along the wall, they'll provide uniform lighting all along the track.


Yep, that's what I'm thinking too.


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## juststartingout

a few supports, LIGHTS, paint and up she goes!


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## gunrunnerjohn

Good looking bridge! I like it.


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## tjcruiser

Scott,

Looks great ... should be a blast watching your trains run across it!

Hard to judge from the photos ... is that wide enough for both of your ceiling tracks?

For future reference, truss structures gain their strength and stiffness from clusters of triangular frameworks ... triangles are inherently a stiff structure. You have your diagonal braces landing not in the corner adjecent to the vertical posts, but rather some distance away on the horizontal bottom beam, forming a trapezoid rather than a triangle. Not trying to nitpick, but something to think about should you do more of this custom work.

Cheers,

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn

Well TJ, I see lots of triangles there, probably strong enough.  I supposed it could be slightly stronger, but I'm guessing this is pretty rigid.


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## juststartingout

Nit pick nit pick...........

It really doesn't need to be too strong since I made it wide enough to slide up from the bottom of the layout. I will paint the board it bumps against the same color as the bridge so it looks like a part of it.

Oh yea, picked up 48' of rope lights today at Lowes.


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## juststartingout

Now if I could decide on a color...........


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## gunrunnerjohn

Well, the color is easy, how about the water under the bridge?


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## Dave Sams

WOW, very nice.


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## juststartingout

Both trains are up and running!  I did find out that the looong tanker car doesn't like to give enough room in the corners though.

I've never liked that car anyway, so on the shelf it goes.............

And, the Lionel CW80 handles both trains without a breaking a sweat!:thumbsup:


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## gunrunnerjohn

I figured the inside track has to be close.  Sounds great, when do we see the video?


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## juststartingout

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I figured the inside track has to be close.  Sounds great, when do we see the video?


I wish I could get one uploaded! I will try again at my office on Monday.


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## tjcruiser

Scott,

So the bridge IS wide enough for both tracks ... awesome! It looks great up there.

Looking forward to your "opposing ceiling trains" video! Nice job in tackling the entire ceiling setup in such a short time ... well done.

TJ


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## juststartingout

tjcruiser said:


> Scott,
> 
> So the bridge IS wide enough for both tracks ... awesome! It looks great up there.
> 
> Looking forward to your "opposing ceiling trains" video! Nice job in tackling the entire ceiling setup in such a short time ... well done.
> 
> TJ


Thanks TJ! My boy had the biggest smile when he saw it run!


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## juststartingout

*Light installed on the wall layout!*


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## juststartingout

Now if I could upload a video..............


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## gunrunnerjohn

Looks spooky!  

I have another recommendation for your lighting. A small hack of the engine to put in a nice bright LED headlight, they look really cool as the engines go around and shine the headlight on the walls.


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## Dave Sams

juststartingout said:


> Now if I could upload a video..............




Showoff!

Now what are you going to do? I hope you haven't run out of ideas.

To post the video.

post it on You tube

copy the link

ex: (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ky1QiaTwR0)

Hack off everything before the "="

6ky1QiaTwR0 is left in my example

Highlight the remainder and then click on the You Tube logo above the box where you are typing. I'm sure it has some kind of fancy name.

Good luck, I want to see the video!


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## juststartingout

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Looks spooky!
> 
> I have another recommendation for your lighting. A small hack of the engine to put in a nice bright LED headlight, they look really cool as the engines go around and shine the headlight on the walls.


Yea, I should have had power to the engines when I took the pic.


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## gunrunnerjohn

Some lighted passenger cars and a caboose would add to the fun.


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## tjcruiser

Hey Scott ...

:appl::appl::appl:


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## juststartingout

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBAfwCDxYRU&feature=player_detailpage


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## juststartingout

tjcruiser said:


> Hey Scott ...
> 
> :appl::appl::appl:



Thank you, thank you very much.


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## erkenbrand

That's looking great! 

Some glow in the dark stars on the ceiling to make some constellations and your son will have the coolest room going.


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## overlander

Very cool ! Cliff


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## juststartingout

*Finally finished!*

Well, I still have lights to install on the bridge but................


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## gunrunnerjohn

That is really super cool, and you dashed it out in record time! WELL DONE! 

I think I'd paint the bridge and then install the lights.


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## juststartingout

gunrunnerjohn said:


> That is really super cool, and you dashed it out in record time! WELL DONE!
> 
> I think I'd paint the bridge and then install the lights.


I DID paint the bridge!


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## tjcruiser

Scott,

Great job! It's been fun watching this all materialize.

(For others peeking and searching to see this project down the road, I'd suggest that we consolidate all of the related threads on this project into one thread, that way it's easier to see the beginning to end project progress. Let me know what you think ... I can merge the threads if you'd like.)

Cheers,

TJ


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## juststartingout

tjcruiser said:


> Scott,
> 
> Great job! It's been fun watching this all materialize.
> 
> (For others peeking and searching to see this project down the road, I'd suggest that we consolidate all of the related threads on this project into one thread, that way it's easier to see the beginning to end project progress. Let me know what you think ... I can merge the threads if you'd like.)
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> TJ


Thanks TJ! I think merging the threads is a great idea!


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## gunrunnerjohn

juststartingout said:


> I DID paint the bridge!


Oops! I guess I expected it to be painted steel gray or the like.


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## juststartingout

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Oops! I guess I expected it to be painted steel gray or the like.


OH BROTHER! Now I'm gonna have to take it down and paint it again. 

I keep hearing the same thing about the color from my WIFE...........


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## gunrunnerjohn

I guess we both just have a different sense of right and wrong. 

I expect to have no influence on the color, but I won't be surprised to see it change since your wife doesn't like it either.


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## tjcruiser

Moderator note to all ...

To help with future Searches, I consolidated four of Scott's ceiling-layout project threads into one continuous thread here. I think this will serve to better map the project from start to end, so that others can read and learn and follow the whole process.

Hope you all find your way into the consolidated thread OK.

Cheers,

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn

Probably a good plan, I was getting confused.


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## juststartingout

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I guess we both just have a different sense of right and wrong.
> 
> I expect to have no influence on the color, but I won't be surprised to see it change since your wife doesn't like it either.


Yea, SHE bought the paint today.....................


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## gunrunnerjohn

And you didn't believe me.


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## juststartingout

*So, now it matches the "color scheme" of the room*



gunrunnerjohn said:


> And you didn't believe me.


the bridge that is......I liked the brown version better...........


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## gunrunnerjohn

I think you are not allowed to pick colors, right? 

That one looks good, and there's no doubt it's painted.


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## juststartingout

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I think you are not allowed to pick colors, right?
> 
> That one looks good, and there's no doubt it's painted.


Nope! I can't take credit for ONE color in the house!


Thanks for the complement, I just hope the wife doesn't decide to change the bedspread or curtains.............................


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