# The dreaded S curve in switches.



## MrDuane (Oct 21, 2011)

After running my train on 6' of flex to see how it went. I went back to the drawilng board, wider curves are deffinately better. This plan lets me do a 5x8 early on and work on the side area and crossing bridge area at a later date. 

So the question is, between the #4 switches, is a 6" straight piece enough to avoide the dreaded S curve syndrome?

And from experience is a 24" shelf prefered over a 30" shelf by 4 out of 5 model railroaders? ^_^, and hoping 30" walkiing area is sufficient.

ack, for some reason the squares didn't show right, dang,


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Are you talking about between the switches in the crossover?
I use #6's with no straits in my crossovers, that also gives you a 2" seperation, #4's crossovers work but they are really tight!


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## MrDuane (Oct 21, 2011)

I wasn't as worried about the 2" but the S curve effect when the train goes from one loop to another at normal speed. And for a #6 switch, is any straight piece needed either?


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

#4's are good for yards where track speeds are slow. With my weighted cars I don't have any problems with derailments. However, for an at speed cross-over I'd use #6's.


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## cbarm (Apr 15, 2011)

Why not go with #8's or even # 10's. Depending on what is defined as track speed, a #6 crossover might derail the works just as likely as a #4 would. If you are looking at making a crossover at track speed (Im gonna guess a scale 50 MPH) you will need a minumum of a #10 crossover...depending on how realistic you want it to appear also...
My mainline crossovers are only at the yard leads and are #8 turnouts, but my railroads timetable specifies turnout speed of 25 mph at those crossovers. Good luck...
My $0.02...


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## videobruce (Jun 15, 2011)

How about using curved turnouts in the curves?


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