# New to the hobby



## Snake (Jan 11, 2014)

Hey all

As mentioned in my introduction post, i'm new to the hobby and looking for some ideas on getting started. I'm really torn between HO and O scale so i might just do both, but any opinions that you have that might help my decision become a little easier, are appreciated.

Also, looking for table ideas. I've got plenty of room to work with but would really like a table i can break down or move fairly easily if needed. Not even sure if that's feasible or not, just a thought i had.

Looking forward to getting going

thanks in advance for any help, thoughts, feedback, etc

Snake


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Welcome aboard, Snake

There is quite a difference in HO and 0 gauge modelling.

Most 0 trains run on 3 rail track which takes from 
the 'real look' for some folks. But the detailing on the
trains is outstanding, so is the cost. New 0 gauge 
locomotives run up to and over $ 1,000.00.

HO, on the other hand, uses 2 rail track, a bit more
real looking. The cost of new locos in HO run 
from 50.00 to 3 or 4 hundred, or more for the
larger steamers. 

Both gauges have digital control systems available.

You can get so much more HO layout in a given 
space. That is the reason many favor it. Space makes
possible long trains of 50 to 100 cars. 

Look around a well stocked Hobby Shop to get the
best input for your decisions. Be sure to scan the
threads the Forum's 0 gauge and Ho Forums.

As to your layout bench work. I am a fan of
modular construction. You make a series of
for example, 4 X 4, 'tables'. They are screwed
and bolted together, never nailed. You design
your layout. Determine how many tables you'll
need for it. Start sawing. Then, when you change
your plans, unbolt and rearrange. One special
note: Put height levelers on each leg.

You cover the tables with 1" foam to provide a smooth
sound deadening surface.

Don


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## Snake (Jan 11, 2014)

thanks for the feedback Don, that's exactly the kind of opinion i was looking for! I hit a local hobby shop yesterday and plan on stopping at another today but i think i'm going to start with HO just to get going.

I've read and heard about the foam but what about a green "grass" mat for the foundation for a layout, can that be easily attached to the foam? Or do you recommend going in another direction?

Right now i envision a layout that has a town in it but eventually going into mountains/landscape so i expect to have a lot of greenery.

thanks also for the benchwork suggestion. I really want to have something i can break down if need be and it sounds like your idea might be the best way to go. I'll read up on the height levelers for sure


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## DT&I (Dec 6, 2013)

if you're going with foam, I would suggest painting it directly. if you're leaving the foam sheet flat a grass mat would be fine, but if you're introducing hills and stuff like you said, aligning the grass mat over all of that would be very tricky.
ebay is a great place to look for HO stuff. I myself have been out of the hobby for 30 years, and one of the reasons I didn't come back to it was the cost of new equipment, etc. The new computer controlled DCC stuff is cool, but quite pricey at the same time. I decided to stay with my trusty old dc, as it's become quite cheap. I'm trying to build a decent layout for 400 or less, and believe it or not, I'm still on track to reach that goal.

Here's a couple of good videos on how scenery is done nowadays


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## timlange3 (Jan 16, 2013)

I have heard no matter what scale you pick, you spend the same amount of dollars per square foot of space. The smaller scales cost less, so people tend to put more in the same space.

Here is a modular thought, http://hogrr.blogspot.com/ 

Since this would help with having larger radius turns it would help with a larger scale.

There is plenty of two rail O scale/gauge, the three rail is O gauge, but not O scale.

If you just want to watch trains go around, build a loop. If you want to operate, then build a point to point. I'm a big fan of shelf and point to point type railroads, that is what the prototypes are, you can get a lot of operation out of a small point to point.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I sure agree with DT&I

I bought some of that grass foam. It's too perfect. Doesn't
really look like a lawn.

You'll like using the various color shredded turf and sprinkling
it on a glue surface where you want it. I like to mix various
shades of green and also some yellowish tones as damaged
grass. Woodland Scenics makes these.

Some of the exterior trim of my house was painted with
a sort of olive/tan color...turns out to be perfect as a
'base' for lawns or weeds in a vacant lot. Let it dry then
paint on glue. Sprinkle on the fine turf for a lawn. Or if a
weed patch, first sprinkle on using your fingers to crush
it, Woodland Scenics roughage in a couple of shades. Then
some fine turf here and there in green, then the fines in
a burnt turf color. It's fun to do. The Woodland Scenics
stuff goes a long way if you are careful.

You'll want to look into Plaster cloth at the hobby store. It
is one way to make hill surfaces. You wad up some newsprint
in the shape you like, use some duct tape to hold it in place,
the drape the wet plaster cloth over it and, using your fingers,
gently rub it into the shapes you like. It'll set overnight ready
for painting and more grass, weeds and trees.

Other guys do a nice job with torn up strips of, glue dipped, newsprint
instead of the plaster cloth. Dries to a strong hard surface.

I used 1x3 and 1x4 for the modular framing. Do include
cross braces for stability. I do suggest
that you bolt the module frames together, bore a bunch 
of 1/2" holes between them all for later running your electric lines.
Then use screws to attach the table top after that.

Plan on a shelf, possibly sliding, to hold your controls. An
additional space that you can get to for your power supplies.
You'll end up with several. You'll likely need 6 to 10 120 v
outlets with master on/off switch or a large switched
power strip.

You should find the leveling devices at Home Depot, Lowes,
etc.

Don


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## Snake (Jan 11, 2014)

wow, thanks guys! Looks like i came to the right place and i really appreciate all the comments and help. I went to the other hobby store i mentioned today and it was far better than the one i went to yesterday. Lots of options and tons of accessories.

I ended up buying individual pieces instead of one of the boxed starter sets and i feel better about that. Bought the locomotive and 4 other cars, plus some track and a power pack so i think im well on my way.

The guy at the hobby shop swayed me away from the green mat idea and Don's comments confirmed it. He mentioned it looking like a golf course and preferred to use pink foam and then paint it and add greenery and things. I also like the idea of being able to cut in rivers and ponds and things like that, so the green mat idea is out the window.

So i guess next up for me is to get some plywood and start laying the track. I'll likely just start on a couple of sawhorses before i really get going. At this point i just want to get the thing rolling

thanks again for the help guys, looking forward to hearing more!


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## Snake (Jan 11, 2014)

For a loco, i ended up getting an Athearn GP50 Diesel Road Switcher. I had 4 or 5 up on the counter and of those, the dude recommended that one so i'm going to give it a go.

Off-topic, im sort of surprised how Lionel seems to be dropping in popularity. I always thought it was one of the top and being from Michigan i figured for sure i'd be going that route but i didn't and likely won't given the choices


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

You're one of the lucky ones to have a knowledgeable
guy to talk to at a Hobby Shop.

But, you didn't mention...did you go DCC or, if not,
hopefully, a DCC ready loco?

Don


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## Snake (Jan 11, 2014)

I decided against the DCC/DCC ready for now until i get going. The guy told me i could modify the one i got if i really wanted to though


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## Gansett (Apr 8, 2011)

I personally think you did the right thing buying individual pieces rather than a box of stuff. You now have what you want and I'd venture to say probably better quality too. Have fun.


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## Snake (Jan 11, 2014)

JackC said:


> I personally think you did the right thing buying individual pieces rather than a box of stuff. You now have what you want and I'd venture to say probably better quality too. Have fun.


thanks Jack, I think so too. I had the boxed set in mind and was torn but im glad i went this route instead. I dont want to start out with a bunch of crap, so i'm going middle of the road for now.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

He is mostly right. Newer HO DC locomotives usually can
have a DCC decoder added later. About the time you add
your 2nd or 3rd locomotive you're going to find out why
you'll want to save your pennies and convert to DCC.

So, now you get out the tools and start having
some fun.

Don


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## Snake (Jan 11, 2014)

DonR said:


> He is mostly right. Newer HO DC locomotives usually can
> have a DCC decoder added later. About the time you add
> your 2nd or 3rd locomotive you're going to find out why
> you'll want to save your pennies and convert to DCC.
> ...


I'm guessing i'll go DCC once i get to a 2nd loco. Yep, just gotta get me some plywood and get going. I'll post up some pics as i progress. Which means you can expect one every 4 months or so! :laugh:


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## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

Snake said:


> I'm guessing i'll go DCC once i get to a 2nd loco. Yep, just gotta get me some plywood and get going. I'll post up some pics as i progress. Which means you can expect one every 4 months or so! :laugh:


Hey, you work like me.:smilie_daumenpos:


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## Snake (Jan 11, 2014)

Well, i was almost right. It's only been 2 months tho 

I've got 2 4' x 4' tables built and standing nicely side by side. I'm ready to lay track but from what i have seen, putting foam down first is the way to go. I know for a fact i'd like to have a "river" cutting thru the layout in some way, so i think this will be the best way to create that.

Any recommendations on what to buy? how thick? I'm thinking of buying a 4'x 8' sheet to lay flat over both tables for now.

I'll see if i can get pics up of the tables here shortly...

thanks in advance for any tips!
Snake


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## Snake (Jan 11, 2014)

here's the tables, still need to put some cross pieces in for stability but ready to go i think:


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## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*Water rushes down hill*

Looks like a good platform to start. You might want too try sanding down the ruff wood first. and then possibly prime the wood. That way when you excavate the river bed out,(if that's the way your going to do it),there will be a nice smooth riverbed(hopefully) water effects traveling downward can be applied later if you so desire with your bridges and trestles up above. 
I probably make your train table, layout, stable first before continuing. Looks good though
Regards,tr1Also,keep up the good work and take lots of pictures as you make progress. Good luck.tr1


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Snake

Before you slither off to get that foam be sure that
your tables are bolted together firmly and the
surface is level.

One inch foam will give you an ability to carve out your
river and act to control the train noise. If you can get
a 4 X 8 sheet that will make your surface that much
better.

Don


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## Snake (Jan 11, 2014)

thanks for the feedback,TR and Don.

I was torn on bolting them together Don, but i think i will just to keep everything safe and level. 

As far as the foam go, is this something to buy from a place like Lowe's/Home Depot? I've heard something about using insulation type foam too, is that one in the same? Also heard blue/pink is the way to go


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

There are several schools of thought on the subject
of foam choices.

Most seem to prefer the 1 or 2" blue or pink foam from
the Home Depot or Lowes. It acts as a sound control
and gives you the ability to cut or mash in to make
ditches, rivers and lakes. Cutting foam can be messy.
If you have a hot knife or wire that's the best.
My scroll saw with a fine blade has done a good clean job also.

I found some very economical 1/4" paper covered foam in
the Walmart crafts section. It's available in different colors
but I chose white for most areas and black for the yard 
areas. It's paintable.

Be stingy with the glue when you stick 'em down. Just
a dab here and there is sufficient and makes possible
removal when you decide you want a different layout.

Don


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## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

I'd like to add something from my experience with foam. I used 2" foam and I haven't done any shaping yet. This is the reason for using it in the first place. Installing the Tortoises in it is a bit of a pain unless you have a good method for installing them. I've installed mine from above which worked pretty well but but I have to remove the turnouts if there's ever a problem. I don't expect there will be. I soldered wires to all the pins and left them dangling in case I want to use the built in DPDT switches.


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## Snake (Jan 11, 2014)

good info, thanks guys.

Right now i'm leaning towards the thicker foam, just for the lake and river ideas. Plus i like the idea of putting trees and stuff right in there. I'll probably end up going with the pink or blue and just put some paint down so the grass and whatnot all blends in. 

This of course, after i bolt the tables together!!


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Snake

Before you finally decide on the thickness of your foam base keep in
mind that you will need longer throw rods for your under table
turnout motors if you go with 2" foam. 

However, if you use Peco turnouts with the ATTACHED PL 10 turnout
motors you can 'bury' them in the 2" foam and not have to cut
a hole in your plywood.

So it cuts both ways depending on your turnouts.

Don


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## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

I'm considering a cheaper solution to Tortoises. Right now I'm planning to use Servos but I'm still up for different ideas. Will PL 10 turnout motors only fit on Peco track?

Sorry, I just realized this may be a thread hijack. Could someone remove this for me or just ignore it and I'll repost it


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