# D.i.y.



## Sparky

If anyone has any instructions to build things for my train set post them here!


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## DonR

Sparky

Has your trolley pole dewired?

Every forum here and almost every post has the HOW TO
for building a model railroad.

And you are in touch with a bunch of men and women
who have years and years of experience doing it.

All you gotta do is ask questions. But you gotta
state which SCALE and about what size layout
you want.

Fire away.

Don


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## Cycleops

DonR said:


> Sparky
> 
> Has your trolley pole dewired?
> 
> Don


That's why he's Sparky


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## Bkubiak

What the heck is a trolly pole?????


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## rkenney

bkubiak said:


> what the heck is a trolly pole?????


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## Big Ed

That bird better be quick!


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## CTValleyRR

While there are companies that will build your layout for you, mostly this hobby is a DIY affair.

Perhaps you could be a little more specific about what scale you are working in (hint: add it to your Avatar), what exactly you are looking to build, and whether you are interested in kits, kitbashed models, or scratchbuilding.

Yes, we could assume HO because of where you posted, but people post in the wrong section all the time.


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## Cycleops

big ed said:


> That bird better be quick!


I've always wondered why birds aren't affected by sitting on high voltage lines.


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## CTValleyRR

Electricity 101: the bird has no path to ground, and the bird has a greater resistance than the wire, ergo no current flow.

Now, if the pickup wheel hits it.... BLAMMO! Exit bird.


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## Sparky

I run HO scale and I don't have a trolley pole. I don't think I have a trolley ether.


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## DonR

I sorta 'read' Sparky and saw the yellow
trolley appearing avatar under your name
so thought you were trolley oriented.

What it that yellow vehicle?

The trolley pole pulls the + side of the usually 600 volt
DC current the streetcar uses for it's motors. As it scrapes
along the overhead wire you can see sparks from time to
time. There is a video somewhere in Youtube of a Boston
Streetcar making way after a bad ice storm. There is
an almost constant stream of sparks from the trolley
as it makes and loses contact with the iced trolley wire.
It looked like a fireworks show.

When I wuz but a teen ager working as an Office Boy in
St. Louis, I rented a room from a St. Louis Public Service Co.
bus driver. He had been a streetcar motorman. He told of
an ice storm so cold it froze the wheels of the trolley to the
track. They required a 2nd motorman standing behind the 
trolley hands on the pole rope, with it he could work it back and
forth on the wire so that the excessive current needed by
the truck motors to break free would not burn thru the trolley
overhead wire.

Don


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## davidone

Not sure what the question is. If u mean building kits then yes or building my own locos and cars then the answer is no.


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## traction fan

*Information to get started.*

Sparky;

Since you are just getting started, I think you will find this book extremely helpful. Title, 
"Beginner's Guide to N scale Model Railroading." Author,Marty McGuirk. Available through kalmbach.com , or your local train store. Don't let the, "N Scale" in the title put you off
the book simply because you model in HO scale. Most of the information in the book is 
quite applicable to any scale. Easy, illustrated, chapters cover; Planning your railroad,
Benchwork (building several types of tables for the railroad), Laying Track, Wiring and 
control systems,(DCC & DC), Locomotives, Freight and passenger cars, Structures (model
buildings), Scenery, And finally a step by step guide to building a model railroad. This last chapter is directed at building an N Scale railroad (though, even there, the ideas can be adapted to another scale.)
I don't know of another book that covers all these subjects, so well, in one book. 
Perhaps one of the forum's HO members can recommend one in that scale.

Welcome, and good luck.


Traction Fan


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## SBRacing

DonR said:


> There is a video somewhere in Youtube of a Boston
> Streetcar making way after a bad ice storm. There is
> an almost constant stream of sparks from the trolley
> as it makes and loses contact with the iced trolley wire.
> It looked like a fireworks show.
> 
> Don


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vvyYUYpxvQ

found that video:smilie_daumenpos:


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## Bkubiak

rkenney said:


> View attachment 55281


OH, That trolly pole coming off the wire was sarcasm, got it, and I am having the same issues with my trolly pole. LOL


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## Sparky

Hello?:eyes:


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## Water Stop

Trolley systems traditionally run on 600 volts DC between the overhead wire and the track.

Every town has its own generating station...there is no grid.

HAL, the Water Stop guy


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## CTValleyRR

Sparky said:


> Hello?:eyes:


Are you trying to pad your post count, bump your thread back to the top of the list, or just being a borderline troll?

In any case, several people have offered suggestions, and many more have asked you for clarification. Don't you have anything more than this to offer?


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## Sparky

My HO scale locomotive is responding slowly, how do I fix it?


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## Sparky

And how do I get dust off my trains without damaging them?


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## Water Stop

Try a Shotgun.

W.S.


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## Sparky

Huh, what do you mean?


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## Water Stop

Just teasing, Sparky! 

A shotgun blast on your layout might possibly result in collateral damage.

Cheers,

Water Stop Hal


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## Sparky

I should have seen that coming!


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## CTValleyRR

For trains, dust with a soft bristled brush, or a small vacuum with a soft brush attachment.

Could you be more specific about "responding slowly"? DCC or DC? At all points on the layout or just some of them?

And I notice that you still haven't tried to provide the information requested by others earlier in this thread.


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## Sparky

Oops, sorry, I couldn't get to the forum for a few days. But I can answer your questions now.
DonR: I changed it to a steam locomotive so nobody gets confused any more.
Davidone: I mean any thing for your train set.
Traction fan: thanks i will think about that and probably look at the video.
SBRacing: thank you for specifying the video.
CTValleyRR: I posted that when I thought I was the only one there at the time.
CTValleyRR: when I set it to reverse it takes 2 seconds or so and it only stops on a few parts.


Sparky


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## CTValleyRR

It's really hard to help when we have to fish for every detail. Remember -- stuff that is obvious to you isn't to us. Don't play "I've got a secret".... unless you don't want help, of course.

Here's your list of openers --
1) DCC or DC? It makes all the difference in the world.
2) Is your track clean?
3) Are you stopping the loco before reversing it?
4) It takes 2 seconds or so to do what exactly? From the time you tell it to stop to the time it starts moving in the opposite direction? From the time you flip the direction switch to the time it starts moving? The headlight goes on immediately but the loco takes some time to start moving?
5) "It only stops on a few parts"? Huh? I thought the issue was a slow response time.

Again, very willing to help, but only if you provide some details. We cannot make bricks without clay.


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## Sparky

1) DCC.
2) yes.
3) no.
4) it takes 2 seconds or so to start going in reverse.
5) when it is going along the track it stops at 2 parts so far.


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## CTValleyRR

Pulling teeth....

1) OK. Are you sure the decoder does not have a BEMF feature? This is a circuit that causes the loco to behave like a real beast of 250+ tons of steel, not a tiny model which can start and stop on a dime. Basically, your loco could be programmed to do this.

2) Are you sure? Clean it with a bright boy, followed by a rag and a mild solvent. If not recently (w/in 1 week for Nickel Silver track, or 24 hrs for brass and steel), do it again. Also, clean the wheels on the loco and tender (if applicable). The bright boy is especially critical if you have recently painted or used adhesives near your track. It might surprise you to learn how many people who are having trouble insist that their track is clean because they can't see any dirt, when in fact it's cruddy as all get-out. DCC is especially finicky about track cleanliness (needs a good connection to get the new commands).

3) Trains should be brought to a dead stop before hitting the reverse button, just like a real train or car. In DC, this causes the motor to quickly try to turn in the opposite direction; in DCC, it depends on the system and the decoder. In mine, the system gradually stops the loco then reverses it.

4) Again, from what point? It sounds to me like it's doing what it's supposed to (see answers 1 and 3 above).

5) So this is a separate problem? Check track cleanliness (see 2 above). Are these points close to feeders or not? If not, you may have to add feeders. There also may be debris interfering with a good connection, or even a dead spot (bad joint, non-powered frog, etc.). If the "slow to reverse" problem only happens at some spots, it's probably either connectivity (especially if the loco has a capacitor, which will keep it running but not accept new commands) or dirt.


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## Sparky

1) it does have that feature.
2) I am not completely sure.
3) ok and same with mine.
4) when it is going and I press the button 1 or 2 seconds later it starts to slow down.
5) I will try adding feeders at those parts.


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## SBRacing

Leaf blowers work great for dusting and cleaning the house.:lol_hitting:. A freather duster or even one of those fine fiber ones.


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## Sparky

SBRacing said:


> or A freather duster.


Me fixed. or a feather duster.

:lol_hitting:


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## Sparky

*im stumped*

I dont know how to clean my grass mats, I tried a vacuum but it messed it up.
please help:dunno:


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## CTValleyRR

What kind of a vacuum? I have a handheld one (like a Dustbuster, if you know what those are). I use that with a soft brush tip, and can clean almost everything on my layout with it without causing damage.

Of course, I don't have a grass mat, but I don't see why it wouldn't work on that, too.


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## thedoc

Sparky said:


> I dont know how to clean my grass mats, I tried a vacuum but it messed it up.
> please help:dunno:


Is your grass mat glued down, or just held in place by whatever is sitting on it?


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## Sparky

I have a Dyson and a dirt devil.
And my grass mats are not glued down because I also switch to snow mats in the winter.


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## CTValleyRR

Maybe try shaking it off, or even washing it when you remove it and replace with the snow mat?


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## norgale

Sparky said:


> If anyone has any instructions to build things for my train set post them here!


Sparky the best place to find articles and plans for building stuff for your Railroad is in old Model Railroader magazines. I have a collection of these great mags and there isn't anything they don't cover that's found on a normal railroad. Once you build a few things from the plans you will get the idea of how to build from scratch. Very rewarding to build your own bridges,buildings ect but I have only built two rolling cars myself and they didn't come out very well. Need to practice that some more. Good luck and don't hesitate to ask more questions. Pete


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## Sparky

*Tunnels*

Today I made a tunnel.

Things you will need.

1: a Pringles can.
2: a pair of scissors.
3: paints.(You can do a mountain or a brick tunnel)
4: paper.
5: thick sponge.

Build!

First you cut off the bottom of the Pringles can, then you cut a bit off of the side and see how it fits, then if you are doing a brick tunnel, then you get 2 chunks of thick sponge and put them on the sides of your tunnel, next you cut off the parts that curve down near your track, then you paint it and voila, you have a brick tunnel.
Or if you are doing a mountain tunnel then you get some paper and make a cone then cut half circles and fit your can in, then put some little lumps of paper on the cone and paint it and voila, you have a mountain tunnel.


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## norgale

Sparky it would help a lot if you could post a picture. Pete


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## Cycleops

Yes, some pics please. Your method sounds interesting to say the least.


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## Chet

I enjoy scratch building. 














































Sometimes you just have to build what you want instead of buying a kit.


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## Sparky

Oops sorry I can post some when mine is done.Just wondering, what is the difference between back wheels and smooth back wheels for the train cars?


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## norgale

OOH,OOH,OOH! Chet I want that Lincoln Continental and the 57 Ford. Nice vehicles and your scratch building is excellent. Do you make your own windows? That's where I have so much difficulty. Doors too.


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## Sparky

Me too I want one of the houses for mine, I have enough room for five acually.:SELLIT:


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## Sparky

Ok, um, miner set back I can't find any thick sponge or Styrofoam so I only have a Pringles can for a tunnel.:smilie_daumenneg:


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## Cycleops

A Pringles can is perfect, plus you can enjoy the contents while your doing it.


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## norgale

Go on Youtube and see a vid on how pringles is made. Bet you won't eat them again. Go to "How it's made; Pringles."


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## Cycleops

norgale said:


> Go on Youtube and see a vid on how pringles is made. Bet you won't eat them again. Go to "How it's made; Pringles."


That's goes for most things, especially meat products. Fond of Hot Dogs are you?


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## Sparky

The Pringles one was mouth watering but the hot dog one was disgusting.:sly:


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## norgale

I love hot dogs and I know how they are made. However I do not like Pringles chips and didn't like them before I saw them on YT.


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## Sparky

I love Pringles chips and hot dogs.


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## CTValleyRR

A good hot dog -- with chili and cheddar cheese or mustard and sauerkraut, depending on my mood -- is a real treat. No matter what they're made of. For the record, I also enjoy black pudding, blood sausage, liverwurst and other things that humans invented to avoid waste in the butchering process.

Pringles, on the other hand, are like deep-fried mashed potatoes. You can have them. If I'm going to blow my daily carb count, it's going to be on a REAL potato chip. These have just 3 ingredients: potatoes, lard, salt (ask any good Amish farmer).


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## Sparky

I like to put ketchup, mustard and celery salt on my hot dog.


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## Cycleops

CTValleyRR said:


> No matter what they're made of. For the record, I also enjoy black pudding, blood sausage, liverwurst and other things that humans invented to avoid waste in the butchering process.


When you come to the UK be sure visit the north of England, Lancashire in particular. You can be sure to get Black Pudding served in every hotel or guest house for breakfast. Another British favourite is steak and kidney pudding, delicious.


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## CTValleyRR

Cycleops said:


> When you come to the UK be sure visit the north of England, Lancashire in particular. You can be sure to get Black Pudding served in every hotel or guest house for breakfast. Another British favourite is steak and kidney pudding, delicious.


Been there... eaten that!

About a dozen years ago, I was one of the team of folks who went to Barrow-in-Furness, Cumbria, to help the Brits restart their submarine building program after a ten year hiatus. Spent a lot of time up there just south of the Lake District, in some of the better hotels. Had a lot of weekends to poke around into some of the smaller towns and sample the local fare.


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## thedoc

Several years ago we would deliberately go in a particular direction on Fri. eve. so that we could stop in at a local restaurant for their Seafood bisque. Then there was the oil spill in the gulf and they couldn't get the shrimp for the soup. Not long ago the restaurant was closed, the property sold and someone built an auto parts store. I was getting hungry for the soup so I made up my own recipe. My seafood bisque. 

Progresso - Classic Mushroom soup - 18 oz can, 
Progresso - Traditional New England Clam Chowder - 18 oz can, 
Campbell's - Cream of Shrimp soup - 10 oz can, 
Campbell's - Cream of Celery soup - 10 oz can, 
Bumble Bee & Chicken of the Sea - Crab meat - 4.25 oz can,
Bumble Bee - chopped clam - 4.25 oz can, 
Chicken of the Sea - Tiny & Medium Shrimp - 3 - 4.25 oz cans,

Use up to 1 cup of chicken broth to clean out the cans, and the juice from all the sea food. 
Add one squirt of liquid Amino, to taste. 
Jalapeno peppers to suit. I got a 7 oz can and used all but one of them, and could still only get a little bite. 
Mix all the soups together and cook, add minced Jalapeno pepper to suit.


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## thedoc

Several years ago my wife and I attended a 4th of July party to celebrate Americas independence. One of the local chefs at one of the better restaurants in the area had made Haggis, I thought it was really good.


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## Sparky

Have you guys ever been to st. Louis and ate at louis' café, I am told they have really good burgers.:smilie_daumenpos:


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## CTValleyRR

Sparky said:


> Have you guys ever been to st. Louis and ate at Rosie joes café, I am told they have really good burgers.:smilie_daumenpos:


Aside from the fact that we're really off topic (but it's your thread, so I guess that's ok), burgers should be nothing more than ground beef and seasoning. We were discussing things that might otherwise be considered disgusting....


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## thedoc

CTValleyRR said:


> Aside from the fact that we're really off topic (but it's your thread, so I guess that's ok),* burgers should be nothing more than ground beef and seasoning.* We were discussing things that might otherwise be considered disgusting....


I guess this could be considered disgusting, or not, depending on how you were brought up. 
My dad used to make something he called "Cannibal sandwiches" but he didn't eat it on bread? It was just ground beef, egg, salt pepper and some chopped onion, mixed together and eaten raw, wasn't too bad really, but that was 50 years ago. I don't know if I would trust raw ground beef today.


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## highvoltage

thedoc said:


> I guess this could be considered disgusting, or not, depending on how you were brought up.
> My dad used to make something he called "Cannibal sandwiches" but he didn't eat it on bread? It was just ground beef, egg, salt pepper and some chopped onion, mixed together and eaten raw, wasn't too bad really, but that was 50 years ago. I don't know if I would trust raw ground beef today.


Sounds similar to steak tartare:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steak_tartare


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## Cycleops

highvoltage said:


> Sounds similar to steak tartare:
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steak_tartare


I saw somebody get very sick on that once. It was at a Monsanto promotion in Germany. He was praying to the porcelain idol for most of the night.


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## CTValleyRR

thedoc said:


> I guess this could be considered disgusting, or not, depending on how you were brought up.
> My dad used to make something he called "Cannibal sandwiches" but he didn't eat it on bread? It was just ground beef, egg, salt pepper and some chopped onion, mixed together and eaten raw, wasn't too bad really, but that was 50 years ago. I don't know if I would trust raw ground beef today.


This is the same as steak tartare without the fancy name. I used to eat the stuff, too, but Cycleops is right -- raw eggs and raw meat is just asking for a ripping good case of food poisoning.


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## thedoc

CTValleyRR said:


> This is the same as steak tartare without the fancy name. I used to eat the stuff, too, but Cycleops is right -- *raw eggs and raw meat is just asking for a ripping good case of food poisoning.*


Damn, ya just can't trust anything now-a-days, can ya?


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## Lemonhawk

There was always Mr. Bean trying to stuff the Steak Tartar all over the dining area!


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## farrout

Steak tartare aka Texas Sushi


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## Cycleops

farrout said:


> Steak tartare aka Texas Sushi


Cant see Hank Hill taking to it though.


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## thedoc

Not quite Steak Tartare but my daughter accuses me of chasing my steak across the plate to eat it, or she claims to hear it still mooing.


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## CTValleyRR

If it ain't mooing, it ain't steak. I like mine medium rare. My father-in-law likes his the consistency of shoe leather. Gets really interesting when my wife or mother-in-law decides to serve roast beef or London broil.


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## Sparky

Steak tar tar is GROSS, but I have Sean Mr. Bean eating steak tar tar.
It was really funny.:laugh:


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## Mr.Buchholz

CTValleyRR said:


> 3) Trains should be brought to a dead stop before hitting the reverse button, just like a real train or car. In DC, this causes the motor to quickly try to turn in the opposite direction; in DCC, it depends on the system and the decoder. In mine, the system gradually stops the loco then reverses it.


So many freaking times I have been trying to drive this point home to novice (and sometimes stupid) modelers that wreck locos (among other things) by immediately throwing a train into reverse while it's going forward, without stopping said train first. I believe I had a long discussion once or twice with the guy at the train store about this as well. I'm not sure if this is an impatience thing, lack of experience thing, or simply a stupidity thing, but it drives me nuts!

:goofball:

-J.


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## leadsled

Mr.Buchholz said:


> So many freaking times I have been trying to drive this point home to novice (and sometimes stupid) modelers that wreck locos (among other things) by immediately throwing a train into reverse while it's going forward, without stopping said train first. I believe I had a long discussion once or twice with the guy at the train store about this as well. I'm not sure if this is an impatience thing, lack of experience thing, or simply a stupidity thing, but it drives me nuts!
> 
> :goofball:
> 
> -J.


Imagine if they drove their cars like that! They must have a good relationship with a transmission shop!


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## thedoc

leadsled said:


> Imagine if they drove their cars like that! They must have a good relationship with a transmission shop!


Have you ever seen the pairs of J shaped black tire marks on the pavement? That's from getting the car going backwards and then quickly putting it into forward and pushing the gas pedal down. I believe that Detroit used to test their automatic transmissions that way, and when they broke they would fix them and test them again till they stopped breaking and then put them into production. That was many years ago.


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## Sparky

I have never seen those marks but I sometimes see bike tire marks on the rode.


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## thedoc

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trolley_pole


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## tr1

*Ideas,instructions probably found at the local library?*

For inspiration on what to build for your model railroad layout, I suggest to refer to the model
railroader magazines found in your public library. The magazine offers plans for buildings
structures and things of that nature found along railroads.
At the local library there may be the last years publications offering these ideas on what maybe useful to you in your instance. The copy machine is your friend here in this instance. Good luck, and have fun! This is the world's greatest hobby!
Regards,tr1


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## Sparky

Usually I go with things in my dreams. Like last night I had a dream where the track went through a tree.


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## norgale

I want some of whatever your smokin' or drinkin'.


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## thedoc

Well these are close, 

https://www.google.com/search?q=roa...X&ved=0ahUKEwjRmpbjtorLAhVGWCYKHStgC6YQsAQIGw


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## Cycleops

Sparky said:


> Usually I go with things in my dreams. Like last night I had a dream where the track went through a tree.


We'd rather hear the one where you're on a long romantic train journey with Jessica Alba!


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## norgale

These are some trees that you could really live in.


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## Sparky

I don't *hic* smoke or *hic* drink. :smokin:


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## Sparky

Here is a cool picture I just found. http://wallpaper.pickywallpapers.com/1920x1080/modern-train-in-moonlight.jpg


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## Sparky

Here is another cool picture I just found. 

http://static.progressivemediagroup...ry/nri/railway/news/Bombardier-V300ZEFIRO.jpg


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## Sparky

*Minor set back.*

There is a certain part of my track that the train keeps coming off of ,how can I fix it.


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## time warp

Don't run the train there


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## DonR

Sparky said:


> There is a certain part of my track that the train keeps coming off of ,how can I fix it.


Sparky

There is a tried and true method to find out why a
train derails in a certain area.

You get down very close with a bright light. Then
run the train as slow as it will go thru the section.
When you see one of the wheels start to rise, STOP.
If it doesn't derail the first time do it several times
until it does.

Right there is the problem. Likely a vertical or lateral
misalignment of the track. It also could be slightly
out of gauge.

See what you can see.

Don


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## time warp

Maybe you should stop running Amtrak trains


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## Sparky

I will try that ,and I have bottle caps holding up the track there so let me know if I should remove them.


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## Mr.Buchholz

time warp said:


> Don't run the train there


LOL....if only it was that simple! I had a problem like this a while back, and had to tinker with a few things for quite a while! Not running the trains wasn't an option!

-J.


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## time warp

The rubber pieces will bend


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## Sparky

What can I do to get it to stop stopping at a few parts.


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## MtRR75

Sparky said:


> What can I do to get it to stop stopping at a few parts.


You can use the method suggested by DonR in post #88 to identify the cause of the stoppages that you have been having. When the slow-moving loco stops, the cause is either a short circuit of a loss of power. The first step is to find out which. Some power supplies have a short indicator light (sometimes called "overload"). If yours does not, clip a multimeter on a nearby section of track and set it on DC volts (I am assuming a DC layout here). (If you don't have one, get one -- it is an essential tool for model railroaders -- and it comes handy for troubleshooting other electrical problems around the house.)

When the train stops, quickly check the voltmeter. If it still reads a low voltage, you have a loss of power to the loco. If it reads zero, either you have a short, or the power supply sensed the short and shut down (to protect the power supply from damage from the short). This is why you check the voltage quickly -- it usually takes a second or two for the shutdown to occur.

If you determine that you have a loss of power to the loco, turn off the power supply, then take a small piece of thin paper and try to insert it between each wheel and the track. You might find that one or more of the wheels is not touching the rail -- leading to the loss of power to the loco. The usual reasons for this loss of contact with the wheels are: (1) trucks that are not level or are too tightly bound to the loco (i.e. not free to wobble in all directions), or (2) uneven track. Are the stoppages are occurring at turnouts. If so there are some other things that could cause the problem -- depending on what type of turnouts you have.

The easiest way to check for uneven track work is with a small level. Be sure to check across the rails as well as along the rails. Use pieces of styrene or cardboard as shims to level out the track. Also, use an NMRA gauge to check that the track (and wheels) are the correct distance apart. If you don't have an NMRA gauge, get one.


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## DonR

Most often the cause of loco pauses or stops is
poor electrical conductivity between the loco wheels
and the track. Often the wheels and/or track need
cleaning. You can also have poor track conductivity with
metal joiners that have become loose.

Do the electrical tests suggested by mtrr. Do them
in conjunction with my suggestion in post 88. Instead
of checking for wheel lift you'll be checking why the
loco stops THERE.

Don


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## CTValleyRR

Sparky said:


> What can I do to get it to stop stopping at a few parts.


Depends on what "it" is. If EVERYTHING stops there, suspect a short or electrical continuity problem (which includes dirty track).

If only one or two locos stop there, check the locos first, then the track, for being properly gauged and assembled.


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## Sparky

Oh yeah, I forgot to clean the track. And it is my train and I run dcc.


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## CTValleyRR

OK, but how many trains (locos) do you have? Just one?


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## Sparky

Yes only 1


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## CTValleyRR

Then you definitely need more. A lot more!


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## Sparky

Yes, I agree.


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## Sparky

I have a problem.
I have horn hook couplers and knuckle couplers and I can't connect the two without breaking them and I tried taking apart one of them and mixing them.


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## Sparky

I know you are there Chet.


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## santafealltheway

Sparky said:


> I have a problem.
> I have horn hook couplers and knuckle couplers and I can't connect the two without breaking them and I tried taking apart one of them and mixing them.


I guess you'll have to replace them then?


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## Sparky

With the knuckle couplers the knuckle piece is screwed into a little box, with the horn hook couplers the hooks are attached to the wheel piece and the wheels snap on to the bottom of the cars.
I can not find a mix of them.


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## CTValleyRR

Make a conversion car with a hook-horn coupler at one end and a knuckle at the other. Then you can use both on the same train, as long as you have that conversion car in the middle.


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## Sparky

That is a good idea but my knuckle couplers are like this.









And my horn hooks are like this.


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## CTValleyRR

Cut the hook horn off the truck and install a box on the body of the car. Shim it down to the correct height if necessary.

In fact, if i were you, i would plan to replace ALL your truck mounted couplers.


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## Sparky

I do not know which parts to cut off and I tried something like that.


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## CTValleyRR

Come on. If you tried as hard to succeed as you did to find reasons why you can't, you'd be done already.

Pop out the wheels closest to the coupler. You want to remove that whole raised part above the bolster ( the flat part where the king post is mounted), but you can just flip it over and cut through the mount from below. A hobby knife with a #11 or chisel blade will work so will a cutoff wheel in a motor tool. You can leave that slightly raised lip, but reverse the truck when you reinstall it so that the lip is to the inside of the car.


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## norgale

There's no cut and dried way to do this Sparky. You just have to do a trial and error with it. It drives me crazy sometimes but I guess you can get pretty good at it after you've done a few conversions. I will say that you should try and get the coupler's mounted on the bodies of the cars and not on the trucks. makes for a lot fewer derailments.


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## Sparky

Ok I will test things with it.
I found a thing where it is a knuckle attached to the wheel unit here.

https://www.amazon.com/Labelle-Industries-Knuckle-Lubricant-Viscosity/dp/B01E6AOP1Y/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1482206132&sr=8-11&keywords=Ho+scale+knuckle+couplers


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## CTValleyRR

Sparky said:


> Oooooooooooh, what I tried was putting the knuckle in the part that the horn hook was in.
> Thanks I will try that tomorrow.
> Will it still work if I use a drill?


You will have to drill into the body of the car to mount the knuckle coupler pocket. Depending on what the underside of the carbody looks like, you may even need to build it up with styrene strips to get enough of a flat spot to mount it. 

If it's any consolation, i tried that too when I first started converting. Doesn't work very well.


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## CTValleyRR

Sparky said:


> Ok I will test things with it.
> I found a thing where it is a knuckle attached to the wheel unit here.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Labelle-Industries-Knuckle-Lubricant-Viscosity/dp/B01E6AOP1Y/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1482206132&sr=8-11&keywords=Ho+scale+knuckle+couplers


I don't think that's what you think it is. The item for sale is a lipubricant.

As Norgale said outright, and i implied, truck mounted couplers are prone to derailments. Don't waste any time or money trying to preserve them.


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## Sparky

Ok I was not sure about what you meant.
And how can I get my big trees to stand up in my fake snow mat.
I tried plumber's putty but it keeps falling over.


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## CTValleyRR

What's under the mat?


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## Sparky

The table


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## Sparky

Be right back, yesterday was my birthday and there is some leftover cake.


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## Sparky

Ok I am back


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## Lemonhawk

Maybe a couple of popsicle sticks with a screw thru them that you can screw into a hole drilled in the bottom of three trunk. Stick the trunk thru the mat and screw the little Christmas tree holder to it.


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## norgale

Sparky said:


> Ok I will test things with it.
> I found a thing where it is a knuckle attached to the wheel unit here.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Labelle-Industries-Knuckle-Lubricant-Viscosity/dp/B01E6AOP1Y/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1482206132&sr=8-11&keywords=Ho+scale+knuckle+couplers


That's how most of the Ready to Run stuff is made but it's way better to have the coupler on the body of the car instead of the truck. The pressure of pulling and pushing is on the car body and not the wheels so wheels are free to follow the rails with no outside action against them. It's not always easy to make this conversion though. Takes some time and a little experience to figure out what's best for you. The main thing is getting all the couplers at the same height so every thing will hook to everything else. That drives me crazy but it's a short trip anymore. Ha! ☺


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## norgale

Lemonhawk said:


> Maybe a couple of popsicle sticks with a screw thru them that you can screw into a hole drilled in the bottom of three trunk. Stick the trunk thru the mat and screw the little Christmas tree holder to it.


You can also drill a hole in the bottom of the tree trunk and stick a wire in it. Then drill a hole in the table for the exposed part of the wire to fit in tightly. A dab of hot glue at the base of the trunk will keep it set right. Just plain hot glue will work too.


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## CTValleyRR

norgale said:


> You can also drill a hole in the bottom of the tree trunk and stick a wire in it. Then drill a hole in the table for the exposed part of the wire to fit in tightly. A dab of hot glue at the base of the trunk will keep it set right. Just plain hot glue will work too.


That's what I'd do.


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## time warp

Regarding the couplers and the trees:
Staple gun, hot glue, bread ties, paperclips.
Use on either problem in any order.:laugh:


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## Sparky

My trees already have wires in them.
And I use bottle caps to elevate the track. :laugh:


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## gator do 65

time warp said:


> Regarding the couplers and the trees:
> Staple gun, hot glue, bread ties, paperclips.
> Use on either problem in any order.:laugh:


You forgot duct tape, bailing wire and zip ties!


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## Sparky

How can I make my cars lighter.
The weights are glued on.


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## Sparky

And why beer why not root beer or pepsi


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## time warp

Drill a bunch of holes in them or tie helium balloons on or both


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## Sparky

Very funny. :>


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## norgale

Your cars should weigh one ounce for each inch of car length plus a half an ounce. If the car is 5 inches long then it should weigh five and a half ounces. It's very rare to have a car that weighs too much. It usually weighs not enough.


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## CTValleyRR

norgale said:


> Your cars should weigh one ounce for each inch of car length plus a half an ounce. If the car is 5 inches long then it should weigh five and a half ounces. It's very rare to have a car that weighs too much. It usually weighs not enough.


Not to nitpick, but you have the RP weight backwards. It's 1 oz plus an additional half ounce per inch of length. So your 5" car should weigh 3-1/2 oz. That said, heavier never hurts (except in the rare case that it affects the number of cars a loco can pull), so I'm not really sure why you would want to remove weight.


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## CTValleyRR

Sparky said:


> Very funny. :>


Often, though, it's tough to tell whether YOU are being serious or not. It often looks like you're just spitballing stuff out there to see what happens.

I try to give you the benefit of the doubt, but you could work on the quality of your questions so that they don't look like you are trying to be silly.


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## time warp

Sparky said:


> How can I make my cars lighter.
> The weights are glued on.


 Where are they glued on, and what kind of glue? What kind of cars? 
You could also paint them white or gray, those are lighter colors.


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## norgale

So that's why my cars are so heavy. Doesn't matter though because they track great and don't derail on the turnouts. Guess I did get it backwards. Ha! Thanks for the tip CTV.


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## 4G-Man

Currently to date - no; but that won't last long, I don't think anyway.


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## CTValleyRR

norgale said:


> So that's why my cars are so heavy. Doesn't matter though because they track great and don't derail on the turnouts. Guess I did get it backwards. Ha! Thanks for the tip CTV.


RP is a minimum weight. As i said before, heavier is usually better..


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## Sparky

Inside,I don't know , and various types.


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## Sparky

And sorry i have not been here, i had a cold for a week.


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## Sparky

I need help


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## Sparky

I need ideas on how to fix this,










That wire is not supposed to be disconnected.


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## time warp

There is something missing


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## santafealltheway

i think he just means it broke off the plug?

I would think a whole new plug might be necessary.


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## Lemonhawk

If the wire came out of the connector pin, and the pin is still in the connector you have to hope you can figure out how to release the pin connect it back up to the wire, then re-insert it. otherwise I think you are going to need a new connector, new pins and some way to probably crimp them.


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## Sparky

The wire broke, i can't reattach it.

where can i get a new one?


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## Sparky

I litteraly just found out about the ‟emerson‟ thread started with my account.

someone messed with my kindle and created it.


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## Sparky

just wondering, whats the difference between flat-back wheels and rib-back wheels?


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## Magic

As far as I know the ribbed backed wheels were cast iron and smooth back were forged steel.

At some point cast iron was outlawed on mainline operations.
Wheels had a tendency to shatter or break. Not sure when.
I think sometime in the 1930s.

Magic


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## Sparky

oh, interesting.


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## Sparky

i just made a really good kind of sandwich you guys should try.

2 slices of white bread
2 slices of rgular beef balogna
1 leaf of lettuce
spicy mustard to taste

assemble as normal

enjoy!


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## Sparky

i really need help finding a new 8 wire serial cable for my bachmann ho steam loco. if you need the specific size just ask and ill try to find it.


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## CTValleyRR

Really, how do you expect anyone to even point you in the right direction with that complete lack of information?

How about some actual information as to what model your locomotive is, which cable you're talking about, why you think you need a new one, etc. "HO Bachmann" doesn't narrow it down nearly enough.


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## Sparky

Sorry

Its the 8 wire serial cable connecting the tender to the engine.

I need a new one because 2 wires on the old one are completely disconnected.

The model is bachmann Echo Valley Express DCC 2-6-0 Steam engine.

if there is any other info you need let me know.


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## CTValleyRR

Honestly, that's not a loco that is worth spending a lot of time and money to fix. Here are some things you should do:

Simply reattach the wires. They came out somehow; they go back in by reversing the process.

Consult the exploded parts diagram that came with the loco for the part number. Often, though, it isn't a numbered part.

Contact Bachmann to get a replacement.

Buy a roll of ribbon wire (from any electrical / electronic parts place) and make your own by cutting a short length. Strip the ends and use the existing connector.


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## Sparky

ok ill see what i can do, but i want to fix it because it is my first and only train.


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## Sparky

CTValleyRR said:


> Simply reattach the wires. They came out somehow; they go back in by reversing the process.


i just remembered, it happened when i wasnt there, plus there is superglue holding the pins in.


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## CTValleyRR

Sparky said:


> i just remembered, it happened when i wasnt there, plus there is superglue holding the pins in.


And?

The point is that they can be reconnected. Acetone will remove superglue.

The title of this thread is DIY... time to see what you can do if you put your mind to it.


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## Sparky

ok, its just i have a really low budget and very few tools/equipment.
im not really sure what to do or where to start with my layout.


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## highvoltage

Acetone is found in nail polish remover, which can be obtained in small quantities (6 oz.) for a reasonable price ($0.99 at Target).

Apply the remover to the glued pins until they are loose, then remove. Get back to us once you've done this.


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## CTValleyRR

Sparky said:


> ok, its just i have a really low budget and very few tools/equipment.
> im not really sure what to do or where to start with my layout.


Well, the budget is fixed by patience. Save the money until you can afford what you want / need. The more you can do yourself, the farther that budget will go. Invest in good quality tools when the need for them arises.

As far as not being sure, the best solution for that is to take the advice of Franklin Roosevelt: Take something and try it. If it doesn't work, admit it and try something else.

If you wait for the perfect choice to come along, you will never do anything.


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## Sparky

ok, i should start with planning how i want my track to go.
do you know what the minimum turn radius is for the train i mentioned?


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## CTValleyRR

I'm sure it will run on 18" curves. Isn't that what came with the set?

I have to ask you, are you really interested in this hobby, or do you just like asking questions? I know a lot about the hobby, but I can tell you that the most useful thing you can do is to try something. You don't need to know everything to start. Get out there and learn by doing. You don't learn much if you come running to someone else every time you have a question.

Try to do this stuff on your own. Fix your connecting wires, lay out some track, and run a train. If it doesn't run, apply some brain power and see if you can't figure out why. Assemble some track into a layout. Do you have any performance problems? If so, fix them. Really, you ought to be able to get through a lot of this stuff on your own. Your biggest problem is you don't even try (based on your prior posts, your loco's wiring harness has been broken for 6 months or so. Go fix it.


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## Sparky

ok, but i only asked what radius because i don't know how to measure it, i was wondering if i would be able to run it on a tighter turn radius because my table is just slightly to narrow and i don't have the wood to widen it yet.


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## CTValleyRR

See, once again you are justifying the passive solution (asking because you don't know) instead of taking the ACTIVE one, which would be mocking it up to see if it runs. That's the only answer that counts anyway.

If you don't mind my asking, how many other threads on these forums have you actually read. There is enough information here to fill books. Traction Fan has published a set of guides for beginners (including one on doing the hobby on a budget) on here. Model-Railroad-Hobbyist is a free web-based magazine devoted to model railroading that has been referenced many times. Here is the URL: www.model-railroad-hobbyist.com .

Instead of offering endless reasons why you can't do this or that, make a list of things that you WANT to do, prioritize your expenditures, and start figuring out HOW to do it. No one here minds answering questions if you get stuck, but you need to do the initial leg work yourself.


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## Sparky

ok ill look around.


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## CTValleyRR

How about repairing that loco? You'll want to gently pull that connector apart and see how to fit that wire back in.

Since your layout won't be much good without a loco to run, perhaps that should be your first step.


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## Sparky

well, i spent several months on the loco trying to repair it, and its toast :\


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## wvgca

oh well, if it's toast, then ..


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## MacDaddy55

*Couldn't Resist!*



Bkubiak said:


> What the heck is a trolly pole?????


I saw a girl in San Diego do something.... OOPS wrong Pole!!:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## Stan D

That gives me an idea for a building. Something just outside of town.....


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## Sparky

wvgca said:


> oh well, if it's toast, then ..


Quick, GET THE JAM! :laugh:


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