# Logo / Decal Removal & Replacement



## grashley (Aug 27, 2015)

I recently purchased an A-B pair of Kato F3 locos in the CN olive green / gold paint scheme of the early 50's. They are probably 20 years old, and in MINT condition. My grandfather spent 50 years with the GTW, a wholly owned subsidiary of CN. GTW also shared this paint scheme.

I would like to remove the Canadian National name from the sides of the locos and replace it with new Grand Trunk Western decals. The decals are available.

Life is too short to make all the mistakes myself, so I would like some help on how to do this and make it look great. What NOT to do will also help me avoid dumb mistakes.

I appreciate your expertise.

Kato P/N 176-076 & 176-084


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## KisNap (Aug 4, 2014)

This past week I spent some time removing decals from a couple of models. I found the easiest way is to apply some of Microscale's Microset every 10 - 15 minutes and then after about 30-45 minutes use scotch tape to lift the decal off.

Here's a good video on the process https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YjXzspgRkz0


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## Prewar Pappy (Jul 26, 2015)

Follow KisNap's lead. Rest assured that he did it the correct way.


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## grashley (Aug 27, 2015)

Thanks to all. That is the information I needed. The video was tremendous!!


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## ED-RRR (Jun 4, 2015)

*Removal Of Unwanted Painted Information..*

Top quality manufactured locomotives and rolling stock are "Laser Painted"..









How To Renumber a Factory Painted Locomotive..
[www.youtube.com/watch?v=YjXzspgRkz0]..
This procedure does work excellently removing the locomotive number..





In this view the original locomotive (#'s) are still very slightly visible (glossy) with a light cloudy background..
--> Hit Pause..
https://youtu.be/YjXzspgRkz0?t=288

Questions:
- Will the light cloudy background always remain ??
- Will the slightly visible (glossy) numbers always remain ??
(Thanks).._:smilie_daumenpos:_..

If the (x2) above questions are both "Yes", 
I have an old procedure that can remove the slightly visible (glossy) numbers..__..
......


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## ED-RRR (Jun 4, 2015)

*Decal Solvents..*

Data Sheet:
http://www.nmra.org/sites/default/files/d1o.pdf
D. Decal Solvents

1. Microscale's Micro Sol 
Micro Sol setting solution is for the most difficult irregular surfaces you find on
models. It completely softens the decal allowing it to drape down onto the surface
of the model conforming perfectly and without distortion. You can get the most
amazing results in seemingly impossible places, because Micro Sol actually makes
the decal part of the paint. For that reason you should coat Micro Sol on for only a
few seconds and then leave it alone, it does the work. Do not try to adjust the decal 
at this time.

2. Walthers Solvaset 
Walthers Solvaset is a much higher concentrated solution, and, should be used
very sparingly on the decal. The decal will react much more quickly. Use a small
paint brush dipped into the solution and then wiped against the bottle lip to remove
as much from the brush as possible. When applying to the decal allow only the
weight of the brush on the decal and move in slow easy strokes, and always in the
same direction or from the center to the outer diameter of the decal. 

=========

Special Notes:
For detailed information I use the product # (Material Safety Data Sheet)..
I was unable to locate (Microscale's Micro Sol) and (Walthers Solvaset) ??__..

I did find Testers #8804 Decal Set.._:thumbsup:_..
- Not Combustible (Not Flammable)..
- Acetic Acid..

Acetic Acid:__..
In (100%) pure liquid form, it is very dangerous to any skin contact..
In (100%) pure liquid form, the flash point (fire) 40 Deg. C. (When Closed Cup)..

Vinegar:
Concentrated Acetic Acid = White Vinegar *20%* Solution..

Microscale's Micro Solution:
It smells exactly like vinegar and "May" also have another chemical added (Unknown) ??_ _ .. (Doubt It) ??_ _ ..









================

My Actual Testing Results:
How "White Vinegar" will affect the top plastic surface (Shiny Surface) when applied.. 
Will be doing several different tests that will take some time..

To Be Continued..
......


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

ED-RRR .. around here vinegar is usually 5% acetic, with the 'pickling' version at 7% .. if you want to try your own softening solution for decals, other options are photographic 'stop bath', fairly cheap at maybe $4 for a small packet [dry], or fairly pure [glacial] acetic acid is also sold as an environmentally friend weed killer, but fairly expensive at around $20 / litre at garden shops


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## Shawn91481 (Mar 20, 2016)

This is what I did, and I'm proud of the results.

First I started by rubbing the decals away with nail polish remover. It took a little bit of effort and it started to pull the paint off of the model. That was a suprise as I expected the color to be a part of the plastic. No big deal as I had no intention of keeping that color anyway.

The next step was to mask all parts that I did not want painted (in my case the trucks). Then I rubbed the whole model down with rubbing alcohol. 

I bought some red oxide primer with the intention of running it with some boxcar red. But after priming I was so pleased with the results that I just left it as is.

For a locomotive I would use a gray primer after removing the shell body and windows then spraying the base coat with an airbrush. Those, however, are expensive and that's why I don't have one. For models I find that clear Scotch Tape works better than traditional masking take as the paper will absorb some of the paint and cause it to bleed a little.

Also a note on spraying do many many light coats, and don't start spaying on the model.

I started with this:









And this was the final result:


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Hello Shawn, Welcome to the site.

Nail polish remover has acetone in it. Watch it, you can melt the plastic with that chemical.
Nice job.:smilie_daumenpos:

Scotch tape? Doesn't it leave a sticky residue?
Why didn't you just take the body off the frame to paint it?


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## Shawn91481 (Mar 20, 2016)

Big Ed said:


> Scotch tape? Doesn't it leave a sticky residue?
> Why didn't you just take the body off the frame to paint it?


I suppose it would if you left it long enough, but even after a day or two it comes right off. I've been using Scotch tape for years on model airplanes without any issues.

As far as the body goes. Yes, I did. But that particular model the roof and the ends came off leaving the sides still attached to the chassis. So, in this case it was easier to mask the trucks than to bust out the rivit and then re-rivit/bolt them back on when done.

Also in this case since I wasn't going for a hard straight paint edge I just used regular paper masking tape. However, I did use Scotch on the catwalk when I painted that black.

And thanks for welcoming me!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Yes, after I posted and was looking at the car I thought of all that, but I already said what I said.
Much easier to just mask off the trucks.

I never used scotch tape, I use the green frog tape or the stuff you use for masking something to paint a room the blue stuff. 
I never tried scotch tape. It would be cheaper. I am all for cheap.


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## Shawn91481 (Mar 20, 2016)

Never heard of green frog tape. I have never tried to the blue stuff on models. The tan stuff always bleed under the edge when I was masking a straight line.


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