# Codes 70, 83 and 100?



## Rock022 (Jan 2, 2017)

Hello all. As I look at HO tracks, I often find this codes 70, 83 and 100. I have no idea what they are. 

God Bless!


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## Santa Claus (Dec 23, 2016)

Here is a start 

The most common codes are identified as follows:

•	Code 100 = 0.1 inches in height - correlates with 156 lb. prototype rail

•	Code 83 = 0.083 “ – 132 lb. rail

•	Code 70 = 0.07 “ – 100 lb. rail

•	Code 55 = 0.055” – 75 lb. rail

In the prototype world, the heavier rails are used for mainlines and the lighter rails for spurs and branches.

Mr C


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## Rock022 (Jan 2, 2017)

Oh, man. I thought this would have made it easier.
Thanks Santa.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*rail codes*



Rock022 said:


> Hello all. As I look at HO tracks, I often find this codes 70, 83 and 100. I have no idea what they are.
> 
> God Bless!


Rock022;

The code numbers simply mean the height of the rail in 1000ths of an inch. Thus "code 70" rail is 70/1000" high, "code 83" rail is 83/1000" high, etc. Real railroads used different sizes of rail. The biggest, and strongest rail was used on the main line. Smaller rail on branch lines and in yards. The smallest rail was usually on seldom used sidings. Real railroads classified their rail not by height but by weight. Santa has given you the equivalent sizes in the "pounds per yard" system railroads used.
On a more pragmatic model level, you may want to just use "small, medium, and large"

regards;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## Rock022 (Jan 2, 2017)

Santa, I just realized that you posted a link. I did not see it the first time I saw your answer. I understand it now.

Thanks!


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Rock

There is not right or wrong with the track code.

It's a matter of how you want your railroad to look.

Most of us use code 100. It and code 83 which is
more to scale, have the widest choice in track
accessories; turnouts with an array of radius and
length, crossings with a selection of crossing angle.
And it is likely to be more widely available.

Don


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

If you are modelling US railroads Peco offer Code83 line which is specific to N. America with correct tie and turnout spacing, its very reliable and uses an over centre spring which snaps the switch rail to hold it in place.

Now, it starts to get more complex, turnouts are offered in 'electrofrog' and 'insulfrog'. The latter is best for the majority of locos and the former if using short four wheel vehicles. Twin coil switch machines clip to the bottom and an adapter is available to operate from the surface.


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## Chet (Aug 15, 2014)

Back in the late 70's I was into N scale, but the locomotives available at the time were horrible, not like what is on the market today. I tore everything out and moved to HO scale. One of the other things that bugged me was the oversize rail in N scale so I build my layout with code 70 track. My layout is a branch line/short line railroad so lighter rail would work as the largest steamers I run are mikes and most of my diesels are 4 axle. I sure like the look of the lighter rail.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

When I entered the hobby about 13 years ago, Code 100 was widely used, cheap, and widely available. It looked the easiest to work with. So, that's what I used. Then, I began to take photos of my scenery so that I could participate in weekly imagery threads on the various websites, but also to enter the odd contest when one of those weekly images turned out rather well.

What I learned, very quickly, is that if we don't plan things to scale, and make them that way, things look very odd when the camera lens is placed close to them. My Code 100 rail looked HUGE!! In fact, extrapolating from the other lesser codes, it works out to about 165 lb/yard steel rail, a heavy weight that no railroad has ever used to my knowledge. The Pennsylvania Railroad used 155lb rail, but most used rail nearer to 130 lb. Current spurs in N. America run trackage right down to 70 lb, with a few using less. 

Code 83 rail is still a bit large in scale, near 140 lb, but it is noticeably smaller and more forgiving in imagery. It's also still tall enough that you never have to worry about flanges bottoming out on it.

Code 70/75 is a good safe bet if you want it to look good and to operate well, with a few more exceptions if the wheels on your rolling stock aren't quite NMRA compliant. Even so, I'm happy with Code 83, and it's what I use throughout.


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## Chet (Aug 15, 2014)

Most of the locomotives and rolling stock on the market today will run on code 70 track.
My layout is over 30 years old and I have only come across one passenger car, an old one from Riverossi that had flanges that were too deep. A quick wheel change took care of that. I also replace all of the wheels on my rolling stock to metal wheels. Started off with Kadee.s years ago. Since then other manufacturers have come onto the matket such as Intermountain and I usually buy the wheels in bulk. These wheels are fine on code 70 rail. I have metal wheels on all of my rolling stock before the go on the layout.


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

To me I do not see much difference between code 100 and code 83 other than the color of the ties. I have built multiple layouts and the black ties have always bothered me. This is the main reason I am switching to code 83 in my next layout. The other reason is that when I pull up the track parts always break, after four layouts and little new stuff each time allot will not make it to the next layout.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Well, you can always paint the ties brown. Use an airbrush and a dark brown paint (i use Vallejo Chocolate Brown), the run a bright boy over the tops of the rails to clean off any paint. Then using a dry brush, i randomly add patches of tan, gray, black, and white to the ties. I can do a whole pack (6 x 3' pieces) in about 15 minutes.

That said, the finer details of the code 83 track still look better to me.


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

CTValleyRR said:


> Well, you can always paint the ties brown. Use an airbrush and a dark brown paint (i use Vallejo Chocolate Brown), the run a bright boy over the tops of the rails to clean off any paint. Then using a dry brush, i randomly add patches of tan, gray, black, and white to the ties. I can do a whole pack (6 x 3' pieces) in about 15 minutes.
> 
> That said, the finer details of the code 83 track still look better to me.


I thought of that bu the current track I am using has been around for at least the last 3 if not 4 layouts I did. After 15+ years of changes and cutting and fixing ties allot of it needs to be replaced. Anything that is good will be reused in the hard to see areas or storage sidings etc. 

Also due to design changes I am replacing a good share of the switches. Anything under a set size is out. When I hit the 50% replacement mark I decided to just go for it, if you can see it it will be new.


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