# HO Shelf Layout



## dce2b (Dec 23, 2014)

Ok, so this will probably be a long read so bear with me. A little history on this, I have attempted and failed to build this layout twice in N Scale. 

http://www.carendt.com/articles/the-highland-terminal/

My first attempt I used atlas track and switches, the second, Micro Engineering track and switches. 

I have a nce power cab, Switch 8 Mk2, the button board and Tortoise slow motion switch machines . You can see in the pictures below how far I got. I tried so hard to do everything right but it just doesn't work as i had planned.

While at first glance the track work may look good, the switch panel works as intended as well as the turnouts they control... well, almost. Also I was trying to use magnets to uncouple, but we can get to that later.

I'm a bit obsessive I guess and I wanted perfection, and I'm just not satisfied and beyond frustrated with N Scale. These are the problems I ran into trying to build this.

TURNOUTS  enter many expletives here _____.
I wanted rock solid track work that was dependable, free of derailments or dead spots. 

I went as far as adding all the extra feeders into each turnout, and frogs. So it wasn't just depending on point contact for power. This for the most part I was successful at. All but one turnout worked flawlessly in this category except for I had one dead frog, which i could never pinpoint why. 

The problems I ran into was that i never trusted a turnout to switch properly. The points always seemed to have trouble making solid contact against the stock rails. I tried moving the fulcrum up, and adding a stiffer rod to the tortoise. And yes i removed the spring from the turnout itself. 

I cant remember how many turnouts i messed up trying to solve this issue... i made the hole bigger in the throw tie to accommodate the larger wire. That led to them breaking sometimes.

Bottom line is I'm just too heavy handed for N Scale stuff. Its just to small for me to work on and it just became a burden trying to get any of it to work.

I also wanted to use magnets as shown in the plan. I know a lot of you don't like the idea, but i do. But I also know it can end up just being a PIA and not worth it. 

I used Neodymium Magnets and they worked ok, but different style couplers didnt work all the time and some cars would uncouple and some would not. So i figured I would just replace all the couplers with micro trains couplers. Again... N Scale is just to small for me to work on and a PIA. I can live with just uncoupling the cars with a stick thats fine. But i just cant deal with working on this scale.

So if you haven't figured it out yet. I hate N Scale and now I know why my uncle gave me a big box of it years ago :laugh:



Now, lets talk about my move into HO. I feel this will be a much better option for me. Bigger everything and more selection of buildings etc.

My size limit for the layout is a maximum of 8 ft. length and I would like to keep it around 2 ft depth.

If someone has a better idea for a layout in these dimensions please let me know. I like this layout because it, has a purpose and i can fit 20 pieces of rolling stock on it, reefers, boxcars, tankers, gondolas and hoppers.

The original plan is actually HO on a 6x1 shelf, but they are using 40ft box cars and I want to use modern equipment. That being said my design ended up being 8x2. 

I want to get an Atlas NS GP38, which will end up being the largest loco/rolling stock on the layout. You have to be able to have enough room on a given track for this layout to work. That being said this loco is about 8", so i based all of my track length and tolerances on that.

I'm realizing I'm writing a book over here, I'm going to try and break this up so comments can be easily made.

Goals I would really like to have hands off the layout control, with rock solid track work, that's dependable.
a. Turnouts controlled by switch panel or pro cab.
b. Live Frogs
c. Magnetic Uncoupling, (not a must but would be nice if 
dependable.)

1. Benchwork
The benchwork I have made previously was just 1/2 plywood 
with 1x6 pine framed below. I think the 1/2 plywood was a 
bit over kill and i should have used something thinner. The 
thickness may have contributed to my issues with my tortoise 
machines. That being said, due to the track plan I can't 
really cut it in half to make two modules so what would be 
the best way to to make the benchwork? While constructing 
this I will just be laying it on top of my work bench. I figure 
later if I want to mount it to the wall i can just get some 
shelving mounts from HD or Lowes.

2. Track, I plan on matching to whatever turnouts I purchase.

3. Which brings me to my biggest fear Turnouts.
I'm leaning towards getting PECO electrofrogs #5, through 
all my reading it seems like people really like these and they 
are really good.. I'm just really concerned with doing 
turnouts again. I already have tortoise machines so i would 
like to reuse them. I found when removing the spring in the 
ME turnouts that it seemed to take away from its structural 
integrity.

As much as I like the look of ME turnouts, they only make #6 
and if I were to use them, I would go beyond my 8 ft limit.

So i know most have their own preferences, but which 
turnout do you guys feel will work best with the tortoise 
machine.

Well, if you made this far I applaud you. Any feedback on all this would be great thanks.


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

Switching puzzles can keep one occupied for a long time! It looks like you have a great start there!
The industrial area (in the bottom of the pic) actually started out as the Gateway NMRA switching layout seen here:
http://www.gatewaynmra.org/2010/gateway-central-15-ho-scale-switching-model-railroad/

I modified and expanded it somewhat, but you can still see the 'family resemblance'!


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

N scale can be very frustrating due to it's small size.
The tiniest rail gap looks like a foot to N car wheels and
thus possible derails. 

Those of us who were in N sympathize with you.

It is so much easier to have derail free tracks when
using good quality tracks and turnouts in HO. 

You can't do better than Peco turnouts. But I would
advise using their Insulfrog, rather than Electrofrog.
The loco you mention does not need powered frogs.
I have been using Peco Insulfrogs for years without
power or derail problems. However, they are power routing
which means you must add a track drop to your bus
for both frog rails. If you use your Tortoise motors, you must
remove the locking springs. The Peco manual tells you
how. There is a tiny difference in rail height of Pecos
vs Atlas code 100 flex track. However, it is easy to use thin shims to vertically align them.

You can have panel and trackside indicators controlled
by the same Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) switches that
throw the Tortoises. IMHO panel turnout control is
more efficient and less complicated than using DCC.

I use the under track magnets you mention for
uncoupling. They work fine, however, you must expect
to need the HOG (Hand Of God) uncoupling method where
there is no magnet. A BBQ spear filed to fine flat tip
inserted into the knuckles will open them. It takes
practice tho. Another helpful tip is to learn how to
manually misalign the knuckles so they won't couple.
This enables a loco to spot a car where there is no uncoupler.
I love switching. It can be a very challenging and 
enjoyable train room session.

I prefer the modular benchwork construction. Use light
1 X 3 lumber for your frame and 1/4" plywood for top. Use
screws and bolts, never nails. 

Don


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