# What scale train do i have?



## TidePride (Dec 31, 2010)

Hello,

I am new to trains first of all, need help identifying what exactly i have here. Over Christmas I found my childhood train set in a box in my parents attic. I now have a son so I wanted to get it working again for my son. 

First question if somebody can help is what scale do i have? Where can I find track for it and what type? I do have all the electical parts and look to still be in great shape i think.

Can anyone give me advice here? Thank you very much.

Greg


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## Evan (Sep 1, 2010)

TidePride said:


> Hello,
> 
> I am new to trains first of all, need help identifying what exactly i have here. Over Christmas I found my childhood train set in a box in my parents attic. I now have a son so I wanted to get it working again for my son.
> 
> ...


I think it an HO Scale. You can find alot of stuff for HO at modeltrainstuff.com


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## gc53dfgc (Apr 13, 2010)

that is either an O gauge or s scale train to decide if it is S we need to see the underside of the engine. HO scale never had that type of drive system and wheel arangment deffinatly not HO.


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## TidePride (Dec 31, 2010)

Thank you, here is the underneath of the loco.

Greg


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## tankist (Jun 11, 2009)

that is a 3 rail pickup roller on the underside, which means it is an "O" as i don't know of 3 rail "S". but then i'm to deep in HO to see stuff around, hopefully S gurus will correct me as needed


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

It's an O-gauge, I'd bet the ranch on it.


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## TidePride (Dec 31, 2010)

Thanks guys! Im glad i found this site. Do you think its a train worth messing with? Still making the track? My son will enjoy learning the train hobby im sure if I can get it running. He is loving my old tyco set that i set up for him


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

If it's fun for your son, it's worth messing with. You can also expand when you feel the urge.

Your engine looks to be an 8302 from 2001, and what I find it's a pretty standard scout type engine. Clean it up a bit and some lube, it'll probably run fine. It appears to have the tender with the cylinder of sand or stones to make the "huffing" sound of a train.


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## TidePride (Dec 31, 2010)

Yes John, you are right. Anytime i see my son smiling its worth it! Should of phrased my question better lol, want to make sure this model train is worth putting money into. Btw, it is an 8302 but would have to be from the early 70s or early 80's (i think), but sounds like they might of been brought back in 2001 from what your saying. thanks for sharing! 

-Greg


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, I found a listing for a similar engine from 2001, that doesn't mean yours isn't an earlier one. Lionel has a habit of using the same number for stuff in different generations, the 450 signal bridges come to mind. I have three styles, they all have the same number.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Greg,

If it puts a smile on your son's face, then it's definitely worth a few bucks to get the loco and cars running around a small track. See how he does with that, and then perhaps expand from there.

You'll need either O27 track or standard o track. The former is a lower-profile rail section, smaller radius, and generally cheaper. The latter is larger rail profile, larger radius, and a bit more beefy and expensive. Both are 3-rail tubular. The O27 should work perfectly fine for your Scout-type loco. I'm sure you can find a loop of O27 on Craigslist, ebay, and the like ... cheap ... often the cost of shipping is more than the value of the track. Used track is always a good option, as long as it's not too rusty. Even with some rust, the tops of the rails can be cleaned with a ScotchBrite pad, some WD40 or GooGone, and elbow grease.

You'll need a basic AC-output (up to about 18V AC) transformer ... I'd suggest 60W or higher. Lots of used transformers available on ebay ... #1015 and similar for $10, better #1033 and similar for $40 or so. Whatever option, make sure that the power chord is soft and pliable, without any frays or cracks, etc. Safety first.

You'll also need a "lockon" ... a simple clip that allows you to connect the transformer wire leads to the center rail and one outer rail.

Get 'er running!

TJ

EDIT -- One other thought and word of caution ...

There was a short period in Lionel's "cheap stuff" phase (1970's or so) where they produced DC-powered (instead of AC powered) locos. I'm not sure specifically what you have with that #8302. But if it is DC (by chance), do NOT run it on AC power.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I see everyone had fun today. I had a haul today, but I am not ready to post it. It was the price is right situation.

Greg you are correct about the 70's. Your engine will run on AC or DC. It has a two position switch from the manual. We have seen one of these just the other week. A strange little motor. The tender is a fun sound drum. They can be taken apart and cleaned. I do not have any exact represntation to show you a basic AC motor doesn't vary that much.

This manual has your engine on page 145. Print the pages for your information.

This link has the Lionel site.

Welcome to MTF and have some fun.


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## TidePride (Dec 31, 2010)

Great guys! Such good information to get me going in the right direction. I will be looking through more threads to get more ideas and knowledge on how to get a good setup with what i have to work with
Thanks again

-Greg


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

You are an official member of the Scout Troop. Search Scout Meeting and post a few pictures at your convenience. I would like to see the motor too.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Once you get your scout running well, you can work on mine, still don't have the E-unit working properly.


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## TidePride (Dec 31, 2010)

what is an E unit John?


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

TidePride said:


> what is an E unit John?



an e unit makes the train reverse it is the lever sticking out of the top of your loco.
3 positions? forward neutral reverse

that lever under the shell is the e unit mechanism.

underneath, the lever is attached to this, the e unit.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The E-Unit is the reversing switch in an O-gauge train. Here's a thread that describes it, better than me retyping it. 

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?p=21281


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

John, he doesn't have an e unit just a two position switch.




Slap my forhead! I get it he asked about the eunit.:lol_hitting:


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## TidePride (Dec 31, 2010)

Thanks for sharing, hopefully my E unit will be healthy, if I have one.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

T-Man said:


> John, he doesn't have an e unit just a two position switch.


I believe he was referring to my post about an E-unit. I have a couple of those engines that have the direction switch as well, very inconvenient.


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## TidePride (Dec 31, 2010)

Trying to get my Lionel up and running and decided to try myself first. Removes some fibers and such but was wondering if there is supposed to be fiberlike material around any of the gears? I would assume not but i am not certain so i would like to know before i remove it all.
They tested it at the hobby shop but the guy that did it wasnt a train expert and told me it tried to fire but shorts out. Any ideas by looking at it what could be doing this. Thanks!

-Greg


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The wires should run up over the top not the side as shown.

Get a good picture of your switch. from the back or bottom

Make sure no wires have bare coper exposed to short out.

Try a close picture on top of the brush area. I have no idea what is on that left wheel?


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## TidePride (Dec 31, 2010)

Tman, have a look at these before i attempt to move the wires. The pic with the gold clip things i see one metal is in a grove and other one is not, is that an issue?


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Tide,

Just seeing this / chiming in.

That "gold clip things" are motor brushes and springs. A "brush" is really a small metal cylinder that acts like an electrical contact to transfer electricity to the motor's spinning armature. You'll always see these in pairs ... one for electricity going into the armature, and one for electricity coming out. The brushes are pushed gently against the spinning armature with springs ... sometimes coil springs (like you'd see in a cheap ink pen), and sometimes (per your motor) with wire springs that are more paper-clip in form. On your motor, one of the brushes has accidentally rotated a bit such that its wire springs has jumped out of its slot. See if you can gently spin the brush back into alignment with a sharp needle or a small/thin flathead screwdriver. If not, we can coach you through removing the brush cover plate to access the pair of brushes and reposition them.

I suspect that the "jumped spring" is not the source of the motor's problem. Chances are it's still doing its job, albeit not as efficiently.

Regards,

TJ


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## TidePride (Dec 31, 2010)

I was able to turn that brush and slide the clip in place, thanks tjc:thumbsup:
Are there supposed to be any fibers around any of the gears? One of them has a bunch but Im not sure if im supposed to remove it or not?

Greg


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Get rid of ALL the fibers and lube everything sparingly. There should be no "fibers" around any gears!


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## TidePride (Dec 31, 2010)

Ok, will do... Thanks to everyone!


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