# Latest N scale layout progress



## BrooklynBound718 (Dec 23, 2010)

Hey everybody,

In between classes, my father-in law and I tried to build a table for a future layout. I want to do the table over again. The plywood surface that is not visible is not as level as I would like. I also want to add a shelf to function as an L at the top left section of the table to store/stage trains


















I also included included a freight house structure which shows my first attempts at weathering. What do you think? 

































My long term goal is to create a freelanced layout with maybe one area that either looks like the neighborhood where the B&O Railroad Museum is in South Baltimore or an area where a Norfolk Southern maintenance yard is located near the east side of Baltimore City.

This will probably be the most work that I will get done while I am in school. I will have more time to dedicate after May, 2012 graduation.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

You asked I will answer, and I am not trying to belittle you.

Your weathering needs a little more, what did you use for the brown ( rust?) it looks shiny. Did you use a gloss paint? You need to tone down the brown (rust) some. All depends on what you used you should be able "wash" some off to blend (tone) down the color. It jumps out too much. You don't need it all off.

Compare your white weathering to this picture, the first one I found. I think this one could use some different colors coming off the top and windows.



























See how your white is compared to this?
Yours looks a little blotchy?

You need some more practice, did you research different weathering techniques?

The roof needs some weathering too, it looks too clean.

What did you use to weather it?

It takes practice to master it, I am by no means an expert.

Look at real old brick buildings, you will get an idea what colors you need to weather them. Look under the windows and see how it weathers. Look wherever there is metal. See how the weathering "drools" of the metal.

That is enough for now, check out the picture I posted.
Google weathering model buildings and research some. There is a ton of info on it. Also a ton of different techniques to weather.Also a bunch of different products to use. 

Anyone else give him some advice?


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## xrunner (Jul 29, 2011)

big ed said:


> Anyone else give him some advice?


Use weathering powders - it works like magic.


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## BrooklynBound718 (Dec 23, 2010)

big ed said:


> You asked I will answer, and I am not trying to belittle you.
> 
> Your weathering needs a little more, what did you use for the brown ( rust?) it looks shiny. Did you use a gloss paint? You need to tone down the brown (rust) some. All depends on what you used you should be able "wash" some off to blend (tone) down the color. It jumps out too much. You don't need it all off.
> 
> ...


"Belittle", oh I am good, Big Ed. I am a social worker. Worst things have been said about me and my attempts, lol. I just wanted to try some stuff. Thanks for the building as a reference. On the positive side, I can always do it over and over again. Thanks for the feedback.



xrunner said:


> Use weathering powders - it works like magic.


"weathering powders?", I will look for those. Thanks


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## xrunner (Jul 29, 2011)

BrooklynBound718 said:


> "weathering powders?", I will look for those. Thanks





> Doc O’Brien’s weathering powders let you create an old, weathered appearance on scale vehicles, military models, trains, figures and aircraft. Ultra-fine self-adhesive powders are dusted on to simulate the effects of time and the elements...no overcoat required! They’re also used as weathering washes when mixed with water. Kit contains enough powder to weather dozens of models. Instructions included. Non-toxic.
> 
> http://www.micromark.com/Doc-OBriens-Weathering-Powders-Set-of-12-Colors,7798.html


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I did not want to be too harsh.
But you asked. And no one answered, I thought I would try. 


You can fix it. But,
What did you use? Paint?


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## BrooklynBound718 (Dec 23, 2010)

big ed said:


> I did not want to be to harsh.
> But you asked. And no one answered, I thought I would try.
> 
> 
> ...


It's alright man. I was looking for someone to point areas that need improvement. Appreciate the feedback


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## BrooklynBound718 (Dec 23, 2010)

xrunner said:


>


Thanks, man. I will look for these at the hobby shop


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Don't tell me what you used.

I am guessing paint?


Got to go.....early start tomorrow.hwell:


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## xrunner (Jul 29, 2011)

BrooklynBound718 said:


> Thanks, man. I will look for these at the hobby shop


You're welcome.

One piece of advice, make sure any lakes or streams you incorporate into your layout are *BLUE BLUE BLUE* like a chlorinated swimming pool or Big Ed will get on your behind.

(don't worry if you don't "get it", this is an ongoing joke between us ...)

BTW - I use Kato track myself. If you want 2 loops that can cross over try the double crossover they make, a neat little piece of engineering.


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## BrooklynBound718 (Dec 23, 2010)

big ed said:


> I did not want to be too harsh.
> But you asked. And no one answered, I thought I would try.
> 
> 
> ...


Yeah, I used paint


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## ptl5spd (Nov 22, 2011)

And if you can't find some weathering powders, you can make your own from pastels and charcoals. I took sketching charcoal and ground it up into a powder using sand paper, then brushed it on. if you get too much or mess up you can always wipe it down and then start over. Once you're happy take some matte clear coat (rattle can at a local store $4) and spray a really light coat on top to seal the weathering in so you don't smudge it or rub it off on accident.


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## BrooklynBound718 (Dec 23, 2010)

xrunner said:


> You're welcome.
> 
> One piece of advice, make sure any lakes or streams you incorporate into your layout are *BLUE BLUE BLUE* like a chlorinated swimming pool or Big Ed will get on your behind.
> 
> ...


I think I get it, lol.. I like the double crossover. I am just not sure if I am going to continue with Kato or go to Atlas. I would like to have a little more flexibility in making my curves. I may just try to mix in some Kato and Altas.


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## BrooklynBound718 (Dec 23, 2010)

ptl5spd said:


> And if you can't find some weathering powders, you can make your own from pastels and charcoals. I took sketching charcoal and ground it up into a powder using sand paper, then brushed it on. if you get too much or mess up you can always wipe it down and then start over. Once you're happy take some matte clear coat (rattle can at a local store $4) and spray a really light coat on top to seal the weathering in so you don't smudge it or rub it off on accident.


Thanks for the advice


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

What kind of "paint"?


Whatever kind it is, use a compatible solvent to gently wipe the paint down, use up and down wipes. Yours are sideways. 
Real buildings weather vertically. Watch what you use you can melt some of the materials used in making the model. Don't take it all off work with it some, experiment.

One way is to turn your building upside down and "drool" what ever liquid you are using and let it dry. 

I could go on for a while. Ink, if you do it right, weathers nice. 
Talcum powder has been used to whiten buildings, back in the 30's.
They didn't have what we have now. 
The building I posted for comparison, I think is too white, plus it needs some other weathering besides the white. That is the first one I found.

Like you said you can always start over. 

There is a ton of info on the net, here and elsewhere. 

As no one answered the thread I though I would. And sometimes I seem to come across the wrong way. 
I certainly did not want to ridicule you.:smokin:

Look around at real buildings, not just with brick but any material and take in how it weathers. 

That way when you weather, no matter what it is, you will have a visual in your memory banks of what your trying to achieve. :thumbsup:

Look at bridges too, the one they haven't painted. 

Heck  BrooklynBound? look around there.

Where about are you? By Baltimore? 
Plenty of real old stuff in Balt.
George slept there, though it seems like George slept everywhere.

Above all if you need to know by all means ask, no such thing as a stupid question. 

I am surprised that you did not get some more "expert" weathering tips/techniques. 

I forgot...the roof, if you don't want to weather it just tell everyone the roofers just finished the roof.  
When you put it on the RR put a pickup truck with some roofers packing up their gear.
Lay some roofing rolls and wood laying around them. 
Put weeds and grass, along with dirt on the ground. Top it off with a pigeon taking a dump on the new roof.:thumbsup:

It is called modeling. 

In blue just for xrunner.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Will,
I can't do weathering worth a pooh...I've tried and just can't it right! Quick fix wipe down your weathered buildings with denatured alcohol that will tone it down with out messing it up, sometimes it's all it takes to get it to blend and look a lot better!


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## BrooklynBound718 (Dec 23, 2010)

big ed said:


> What kind of "paint"?
> 
> 
> Whatever kind it is, use a compatible solvent to gently wipe the paint down, use up and down wipes. Yours are sideways.
> ...


@Big Ed, thanks. I am going to use that building as a practice building. I didn't pay anything for it anyway. I definitely want to get my skills developed before I even think about tackling one of my cars. I have been finding different sites that talk about weathering and I have seen some vids on youtube.



NIMT said:


> Will,
> I can't do weathering worth a pooh...I've tried and just can't it right! Quick fix wipe down your weathered buildings with denatured alcohol that will tone it down with out messing it up, sometimes it's all it takes to get it to blend and look a lot better!


@Sean- Denatured alcohol? I will look for some of that and keep a couple of bottles on hand. Thanks for the tip


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