# Help on building a room perimeter table



## Cowboy (Dec 31, 2010)

Hello,

I am new to the hobby, and have been doing a ton of reading. So much so that I changed my idea on my benchwork. Originally I was going to build an "L" shape table with two 4x8 pieces of plywood. Now I have a room that is 12' x 10' and want to build a table around the perimeter. The table will run around the room and be 36" wide. 


To do this I was thinking of using this type of support system 








(image borrowed from ModelTrainBuilder.com)


I am hoping you may be able to guide me. Given that the table will run 12' do I need to have legs in the front or would the back support work? 

Secondly, the studs along one wall are steel (the remainder of three walls are wood studs). How would I mount the 2x2 to the steel studs to ensure strength for the benchwork? Would they be as strong as the wood? Do I need to mount a sheet of plywood along the studs first and then mount the 2x2s?

Any help or insight you could provide would be spectacular. Thank you.

... James


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Keep it simple.

Your wall studs are 16 on center. Make a frame with 2 by 2,s, 36 deep by eight feet with a cross bar every two feet. Off set the crossmembers so you don't cover a stud. Screw that right into each wall stud and run a leg down on the inside frame at the ends and as needed. Place a shelf underneath for storage too.










Then you just figure out your wall sections you need to make to go around the room

You have a stud, 1/2 inch sheet rock and 1,3/4 stud thickness so a 3.5 inch screw will anchor it
Depending on three feet from your back wall the sides will be 7 or 9 feet long
You need to find your wall studs first and mark them.

Basic carpentry: The frame ends can be 36 long but the inners are shorter because of the the 2 by 2 thickness. Shorter by about 3 inches This will give 8 feet and 3 three inches in length. Keep in mind the thickness of your stock you are using. Don't cover any wall plates/switches. If the wood curls use another crossmember and or Use a good clamp to hold in place before joining. Glue the joints but not the wall.

To go 9 feet stagger two boards 3 and 6 feet double the crossmembers at those joints


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

I like not having legs to get in the way, so here's my take on it.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

James,

My opinion ...

You can cantilever of of the wall without leg supports using diagonal braces, as you suggest. However, I would not attempt to locate your "frames" directely in line with existing wall studs ... too limiting, in my opinion. Rather ...

Run a pair of cleats horizontally along the wall -- one high, and one low -- with these cleats screwed into your wall studs. Now, the cleats give you free reign to postion your frames wherever needed.

(This echos Nimt's idea, above.)

For cleats, I like using a "dovetail" style joint, per the sketch below. This is often used to hand kitchen wall cabinets ... very strong, and it pulls the cabinets (or table, in this case) tightly and firmly against the wall. And, if needed, the table top can be easily removed.

Vertical cross section through detail at junction of table top and wall:










In plan view (looking down, from above), you'll either need some diagonal braces between frames -- to keep them from racking sideways -- or, you'll need to make sure that your table top is screwed into the stick-out frame tops, such that the top itself will prevent frame racking.

(Nimt ... I'd shy away from using drywall screws for anything structural ... drywall screws have very little shear strength, and are really not meant for anything load bearing. I'd suggest fine thread decking screws, or self-tapper sheet metal screws, instead.)

Hope this helps a bit,

TJ


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## Cowboy (Dec 31, 2010)

Absolutely amazing - you guys are terrific! Thank you for the ideas.

I really like TJ's suggestion of the horizontal cleats coupled with Sean's concept. 

TMan's idea was what I first started with, but wasn't confident I would be able to make everything level with all those legs. The cleats can be lined up with a level and then it should be good.

Again, wow. Thanks a bunch.

.. James


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

For what it is worth. The legs go on last. Draw a line on the wall even with the top,using a level. The line is a guide to screw away You can use a a temporary wall block underneath to level against the wall. Then the legs are held with clamps. Level those and screw. You can use a brackett too. 1 by three may give you a better,level top than 2 by 2's. A lot of wall layouts go more than one level so straight legs keep the option open instead of bracketts.

I had to say something, that picture was horrendous but it does get you started. Too much wood for no reason.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I've used the horizontal cleats for many shelving projects, as well as several wall mounted desks. They work great, and there are no obstructions on the floor, which was the object of the exercise.


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