# Roadbed transition to yard



## joed2323 (Oct 17, 2010)

Why does the yard have to sit lower then the main? 

Why do people transition the roadbed from mainline down to yard? is it so the cars dont roll out or what?

Same with spurs i transition those also?

Sorry for the dumb question, im getting ready to get busy with my roadbed and i dont want to go crazy with the yard if there isnt suppose to be roadbed there?

Have people used roadbed in the yard? I would of used roadbed everywhere  thanks ive been watching videos on youtube


----------



## Conductorjoe (Dec 1, 2011)

In real railroads the roadbed is built up for mainlines and passing sidings. Yards are flat unless it is a hump yard.
Industrial spurs or sidings are usually on flat ground. 
On my layout I use cork roadbed in the yard, but it is solid across and looks flat. The engine yard and industrial sidings on my layout are without cork and are directly on the wood.
Hope that helps.


----------



## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Built up ballast on the main is done that way to maintain rail integrity. It helps keep the track "High and Dry"! 
The yard sits lower then the main because it's easier and cheaper.
Spur tracks are lower to ensure that cars do not roll onto the main!
I use sheets of cork for the yard and road bed for the main and spurs.


----------



## Davidfd85 (Jul 4, 2011)

Do they make a cork roadbed piece to make the change from mainline to yard? I haven't seen one. If not how would that grade change be made?
I'm starting my yard soon thats why I'm asking.

Thanks


----------



## cv_acr (Oct 28, 2011)

Conductorjoe said:


> In real railroads the roadbed is built up for mainlines and passing sidings. Yards are flat unless it is a hump yard.


Actually railroads will try to build a yard with a very slight "bowl", so that cars do not roll out. Since model railroad cars do not have handbrakes like the real ones we're copying, this "bowl" effect can be even more important for a model yard. Some modern high-quality rolling stock from Atlas, etc. is very free-rolling and will roll away from you on track you thought was dead level.



> Industrial spurs or sidings are usually on flat ground.


Should be flat as possible where the cars are parked for loading/unloading.

Note that derails will usually be installed (on real spurs) before the spur joins back onto the main track to prevent a runaway car from rolling out onto the main track if its handbrake lets go. (Better to slightly derail the car on the spur than have it roll out onto the main track and really cause a big accident by getting hit by a train.)


----------



## cv_acr (Oct 28, 2011)

Davidfd85 said:


> Do they make a cork roadbed piece to make the change from mainline to yard? I haven't seen one. If not how would that grade change be made?
> I'm starting my yard soon thats why I'm asking.
> 
> Thanks


No, you'd have to figure that out another way.

IF you use cork roadbed on your main and sheet cork for the yard that is a little thinner (lower) you can run some regular mainline cork from the switch on the yard lead and plane it down using a rasp or sanding block and a bit of elbow grease.

I've seen people that use foam insulated board as a base gouge out the grade in the foam and use that to allow the cork from the mainline to slope down to the base level of the foam.

I believe others have used tapered shims like cedar shingles.

Another option is to use the same roadbed throughout, and "cookie cutter" the benchwork to drop the level of the yard down a little (and I mean "a little", the effect should be very subtle).

Alternatively, everything can just be done on the same level, but getting a little bit of realistic profile really makes a nice visual effect.


----------



## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Davidfd85 said:


> Do they make a cork roadbed piece to make the change from mainline to yard? I haven't seen one. If not how would that grade change be made?
> I'm starting my yard soon thats why I'm asking.
> 
> Thanks


I simply glue down the cork and sand the transition in with 40grit sand paper stapled to a wooden block.

Or as NIMT suggested, use cork sheet for yard. The mainline ballast will cover the cork and create the angled edge, in the yard, all of the tracks will sit flat on the cork sheet. Once you're done ballasting, you'll never tell the difference.


----------



## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

I do the same thing as Scott and use a belt sander!


----------



## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

NIMT,
Excuse me....did you mean "take a belt before the sander"? :laugh::laugh:
Just checkin'
Bob


----------



## joed2323 (Oct 17, 2010)

im going to be using woodland sceneics foam since i got a bunch already.

I dont think you can sand that stuff.. I may just try and get wood shims and try that


----------



## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Bob, 
Both!

joed2323,
Woodland Scenics makes foam transitions.
Shims are almost too steep! Wood Shake shingles work better!


----------



## joed2323 (Oct 17, 2010)

really nimt?


Wow i didnt know that, must not have been looking too hard at the Lhs unless they didnt carry it, but they did have a bunch of woodland scenics stuff


----------



## Davidfd85 (Jul 4, 2011)

I saw where cedar shake shingles were used as the transition grade, well living in the south its hard to find cedar shingles or any wooden shingles for that fact. What I did find at Home Depot is extra long carpenters shims, just as long as a shingle just narrower but just the right width for HO track. They work perfectly. I only have made one so far and don't have a picture of it yet. I will do that soon.


----------



## joed2323 (Oct 17, 2010)

I was actually able to cut a small section from woodland scenics road bed and i used my palm sander with 60-80 grit paper and i sanded down a peice of road bed. I didt think it would work but it actually tapered it down flat on one end. Worked for me

I was going to try and make something out of thin cardboard strips but i opted for the roadbed instead.


----------

