# Removing Scratches on Models



## Dreadnought (Apr 19, 2016)

While doing some kitbashing, I unfortunately put some deep scratches into the K4 Pacific I was working on whilst removing its dome, as well as several other unsightly marks.

Does anything work well for removing scratches and scores?

Photos of the project:

















As you can see, the area all around where the dome was is very unsightly, with several knife scratch marks as well as the remnants of the glue that held the dome there. Any methods for smoothing that out?


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## mikek (Dec 29, 2013)

Well, nobody has replied, so I'll give it a shot. I have made scratches in plexi go away with heat. Take a piece of scrap, scratch it, and then wave a lighter over the scratch, experimenting with different positions and closeness of the flame. Take a hot soldering iron and hold it close, but don't touch! If you can see good results on the scrap, try the loco when you're sure. This hopefully will not change the color of the shell. The idea is to get in and out hot and quick, before the heat sinks into the shell and warps it's shape.


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## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*scratches & gouges removal*

I think in order to remove scratches,indentations and things of this nature would require
auto body type of work. A sanding, filling painting type of procedure. And a lot of patients.Sanding filling painting and 
so forth. regards,tr1


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

Agree with the last post. Fill with Bondo or Durham's Water Putty, anything that will harden and be able to sand lightly. And that's the key...light sanding only, no shaping. So you must get it about 90% right or better before it sets. Then prime and paint.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

I've successfully filled holes left after removing dumb-looking factory parts for replacement or relocation.
I used thin plastic rod, heated with a small torch, and dripped plastic into the "wound" like dripping candle wax. Occasionally wave the flame over the repair area to keep it from rejecting the new plastic.
The result can be carved, filed, sanded, drilled, tapped, or otherwise shaped to suit. Color of the plastic doesn't matter, as paint will hide it.


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## slammin (Mar 25, 2016)

Bondo or water putty is better suited to 1:1 scale items. For the type of damage your pictures show, you should use Squadron putty or a similar product. Apply in thin layers, sand with 600 to 800 wet or dry paper.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The melting plastic method is a first for me. Sounds effective for a deep hole.
I normally try a rubbing compound and go to a polishing compound for plastic or metal shell, Bondo scratch putty for any pits.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

tr1 said:


> And a lot of patients.


Why? Do you envision this as a task for menial labor from those confined to a hospital bed?

On the other hand, tedious tasks like this do require an awful lot of patience.... 

Seriously, I agree with those who have recommended squadron putty and mild abrasives.

I would start with something on the order of 600 grit to remove any raised ridges, then fill any remaining gouges with squadron putty. When this is cured, sand it level with increasingly fine abrasives, up to about 1200 grit.

And you will probably have to apply at least some touch-up paint at the end of the process. Hopefully, a full shell repaint will not be necessary, although it might be better for color matching.


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## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*Surface,scratches and gouges*

Sorry on my part with an incorrectly spelled word of "patience." The general idea of a
auto body style type procedure would effective here... Good luck with your restoration!
Regards,tr1


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## cv_acr (Oct 28, 2011)

Actually auto body spot putty works marvellously in small amounts on scale models. Just as good or superior even that the Squadron putties. And really easy to obtain from your local hardware store, when the "local" hobby shop isn't so local...

And needle files and fine finishing sandpapers (also from the automotive body repair aisle) to clean up the surfaces for repainting.

The heating procedure sounds like it has a high chance of going catastrophically wrong, while there's little or no chance of that with putty and surface treatment.

I think with *any* procedure you're looking at repainting or at least touchup regardless...


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## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

I'd never heard of Squadron Putty before, so I looked it up. I found this video, which some folks might find interesting. It's immediately followed by another video on how to sand it, although that's pretty obvious.


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## rgw (May 6, 2016)

Try Tamiya's Mr. Dissolved Putty. Fantastic stuff. Dab a brush in Tamiya lacquer thinner then into MDP and lightly brush area. It finds its own level. Light sanding all that's necessary.


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## Ace (Mar 30, 2016)

cv_acr said:


> Actually auto body spot putty works marvellously in small amounts on scale models ... The heating procedure sounds like it has a high chance of going catastrophically wrong, while there's little or no chance of that with putty and surface treatment ...


*YES*. I've found UV-cured bondo to be very convenient for patching because it can be used in very small quantities without the need to mix in a separate hardener. And it has a long shelf life.


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