# Purchasing DCC for first time



## FWWR93 (Dec 8, 2018)

Hey everyone, I think I’ve finally decided on which track to get, Kato Unitrack, specifically the WGH set. It’s HO and fits in a 4x8 space because portability is important for me right now as far as being able to get it out of the way. It says DCC on some of the pictures and my locomotives are, so far, 2x genesis GP50s which one has DCC and one is “ready.” I’m trying to figure out the rest of what I need to purchase in order to tie it all together. Thanks


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Track isn't DC or DCC. It's the function of the controller you attach to it. The Kato WGH track pack is simply a package of their Initrack product that builds a layout of a certain design.

As far as I know, there is no controller included with that set, so you would have to get one. You will also need to purchase a decoder for your DCC-ready loco and install it. In most cases, this is no harder than removing the shell, pulling out a jumper, and plugging in the decoder.

For the controller, you have several options. If all you want to do is run trains, and don't care about tweaking their operating characteristics, then get one of the limited functionality systems: Bachmann's EZ Command or MRC's Prodigy Explorer. Either of these can run more locos than you can fit on a layout of that size. The only drawback (other than not being able to program your locos) is that they are not expandable. If you wanted to add throttles, boosters, etc, you would have to invest in a new system.

If you want to be able to program your locos, or have an eye to future expansion, then you will want to step up to a full featured starter system from Digitrax, MRC, or NCE. A lot of people will recommend the system they own (which you would expect), but each of those systems is fully capable. What you will want to look at is ease of use and the human interface (how it looks, feels, etc). The only system I can't recommend is Bachmann's Dynamis system. The interface is terrible, and unlike the others, it isn't expandable without a $400 upgrade (plus the cost of the expansion parts).


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

Before you settle on a "20th-century style" wired dcc controller with little more than pushbuttons, spend a little time on YouTube watching videos about the Roco z21 system.

The z21 is _"21st century dcc"._
Works with any Android or iOS device (smartphone or tablet).
Works with all dcc locomotives.
Easiest programming there is.

The "white" z21 (little "z") can be bought from dmtoys.com in Germany for 99Euro + 10Euro shipping to the USA (that's how I got it). English-friendly site.
You'll also need the companion TP Link modem (specially set up for z21).
You'll need either German-->USA plug adaptors (cheap), or get USA power supplies.

After using the z21, I don't think I could stand to use "old style" dcc setups.

If you have a smartphone or tablet, you can download the z21 app and try it out "in demo mode" (even if you don't actually have the z21 "box" yet).
Just go to google.play or the iOS App Store and search for "z21".


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

J.Albert1949 said:


> Before you settle on a "20th-century style" wired dcc controller with little more than pushbuttons, spend a little time on YouTube watching videos about the Roco z21 system.
> 
> The z21 is _"21st century dcc"._
> Works with any Android or iOS device (smartphone or tablet).
> ...


Sounds like a lot of trouble to get a system that doesn't have a large customer base and is primarily not for the US market. However it does sound like it has some good features.
All that being said, I have a NCE PowerCab system that is very easy to set up. I also run it on my iPad and Android tablets tirelessly. Works great! I especially like WiThrottle.
Also, I have JMRI-RPi running on a Raspberr Pi and the whole setup only cost me about $50. And it is all supported in English.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

"...I’m trying to figure out the rest of what I need to purchase in order to tie it all together. Thanks "

If what you have listed is complete and accurate, you need a DCC controller and a decoder for the 'ready' locomotive. Or, if you elect to operate in DC, leave that locomotive as it is, and ensure CV 29 in the locomotive with a decoder on board is set to 'dual mode', or that it is reset to factory defaults.

You are at a crossroads and must decide whether to present digital AC square wave power to your rails or to use the simpler DC system. By DC being simpler I mean you run all your trains in the same direction or use a direction switch to get them to move in the other direction. Or use blocks with toggles, somewhat more complicated. You won't need blocks and toggles if you elect to go DCC. But you'll need that one decoder and get it into the locomotive correctly installed.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Here is the OP's Kato train set.

http://www.newhallstation.com/images-lib/ho_scale/KA-3-103/

The picture shows what appears to be a DCC controller but
it is not included.

He would need a DCC (or as the ad states) DC power
pack depending on his choice of system. If he goes
with DCC, he would also need a plug in decoder for
the 'DCC ready' loco

Don


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## FWWR93 (Dec 8, 2018)

Okay so after reading all this and doing some lore research, I’m thinking about the Digitrax Zephyr starter set but am going to try to find some YouTube reviews on it.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

This is as true a statement as you will find on the www: all DCC controllers/systems are excellent. They vary in form factor and in ease of use, and also in the amount of amperage they'll handle. Apart from that, you could seriously close your eyes, put your finger on a chart listing every one on earth, and you'd eventually learn and be pleased with what you have.

So, if you have something other than a hankering for the Digitrax Zephyr, and have eliminated other systems for a compelling reason, even if just the price, you'll do just fine.

Want a great tip? Make sure you go to their site and download the manual for the system you are going to buy. READ IT! Twice. If it is comprehensible, then that's all you'll need to master the appliance. Spend an hour programming addresses into decoders, changing their momentum and inertia settings, and configuring the sounds to suit your taste. It's a great investment in time, and you'll never forget how to manage your system or your decoders...providing you have the manuals in case you get stuck.


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

Broke wrote:
_"Sounds like a lot of trouble to get a system that doesn't have a large customer base and is primarily not for the US market."_

It doesn't seem to have a problem with "the US market" -- at least in terms of compatibility with equipment. It works with everything I've tried. After all, it's "just dcc", in a "slightly different box".

_"And it is all supported in English."_

So is the z21, which seems to be popular in Britain, as well.
Roco has full support/download pages in English.

I doubt I could have "gotten started" in dcc as quickly and as easily with any other system. Installation and setup is quite "intuitive". Yet it's not "limited", in the way that the Bachmann system may be.

I'm surprised that Roco hasn't chosen to promote the z21 within the USA markets.
It could become a good seller here.


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

J.Albert1949 said:


> Broke wrote:
> _"Sounds like a lot of trouble to get a system that doesn't have a large customer base and is primarily not for the US market."_
> 
> It doesn't seem to have a problem with "the US market" -- at least in terms of compatibility with equipment. It works with everything I've tried. After all, it's "just dcc", in a "slightly different box".
> ...


You are correct in that it is all DCC. However, some systems are more intuitive and their documentation is, or was to me, easier to follow. I found that to be true with NCE.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I don't think our "20th Century DCC" is quite ready to go the way of the dinosaur just yet.

I happen to prefer pushbuttons and the big ole throttle knob on my MRC unit. It gives me a tactile feel so I know what I'm doing, without looking. The Dynamis had a graphic interface, too. That certainly wasn't an improvement on physical controls. My experience with smartphone interfaces is that their graphic intensity looks great when all you're doing is studying the interface, but it's less functional for actually running trains.

I also think you're seriously overstating the difficulties of getting an "old style" DCC system up and running. My MRC Prodigy Wireless took me a whopping 10 minutes, and I never cracked the manual.

Z21 is a different kind of interface, and deserves a look with any other, but I have yet to see or read anything that makes it markedly superior to the older systems.


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## FWWR93 (Dec 8, 2018)

Okay so one last question (until everything arrives) which decoder should I purchase for my DCC ready athearn GP50?


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

You can use just about any NEC or Digitrax decoder
in your loco. MRC decoders have had a number of
bad reports. Current decoders permit motor draw up
to 1.5 or 2 amps. Most locos draw much less than that.

Your main choice will be based on whether the loco
is 'DCC ready' which means you must buy a plugin decoder
with the number of pins specified for your loco.

If it isn't DCC ready you will want to buy a decoder with
wires that you will solder on. The instructions are
very clear as to which wire goes where. Usually
a simple couple hour chore.

Don


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I will add to what Don said. First, the manufacturer Is NCE, not NEC. I would also add TCS (Train Control Systems) to the list.

I would avoid decoders from both Bachmann and MRC. Some people have no problems with either, but I find Bachmann ones excessively loud, and MRC does have a less than stellar reputation.


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## BikerDS (May 1, 2012)

*DCC differences*

I'm guessing you got a Digitrax Zephyr based upon your earlier comments. That is the way I started.

I joined a local club (I also had a Zephyr) that was Digitrax based, but had decided to switch to NCE. The Digitrax was functioning well for them, but when they decided to move to wireless, they found a huge difference between Digitrax and NCE: battery life.

A Digitrax duplex throttle (two-way wireless) can run for about 4 hours on a battery, where as the NCE Duplex throttle runs for 3 to 6 months on a battery.

The club looked into buying 9V rechargeable batteries, but ultimately decided they didn't want to have to remove, recharge, then re install batteries before each operating session.

The Digitrax controller and wireless receivers had to be replaced, but all the other DCC accessories (reversers, electronic circuit breakers, and of course decoders worked fine with either system.

If you plan to expand to wireless (and you will once you try wireless walk around) give this some consideration.


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