# Track cleaning??



## BNSFcountryCA

Not sure if I'm posting this in the right area?. But I've just watched this video on YouTube and this guy claims to have a totally simple way of keeping his track clean for months at a time. He uses automatic tranny fluid he takes a Q-tip and dips it in the fluid and rubs it on the track in a space of about a inch on both rails and does this in 4-5 different spots on the layout. I want to try it but I never heard of this before and think maybe it's a bunch of BS. He does have a lot of comments saying it really does work. So I was wondering if any of you guys have tried it or do it and what are the results? Thanks....


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## BNSFcountryCA

Oh I forgot to mention that after he applies it in the few areas he then lets his trains run and distribute thru out the whole layout


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## sjm9911

I remember seeing something similar with a different chemical. I never tried it. If it dosent work it migh be a pain to clean off. But who knows?


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## Davidfd85

I have seen something along the same line but using Whal clipper oil. I am using it now and have liked it so far with no problems.


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## gunrunnerjohn

IMO, using transmission fluid on your track is a bad idea. I've heard this before, but I don't use anything that leaves a residue. I use Isopropyl Alcohol or a Scotchbrite pad on my track cleaning car.


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## shaygetz

I use a Masonite pad under one car in each train...










...it even works in N scale.


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## BNSFcountryCA

I also heard of the clipper oil too


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## Fire21

shaygetz said:


> I use a Masonite pad under one car in each train...


Shay, please explain more about the Masonite pads...any covering or just bare Masonite? Do they just rub on the surface of the track and shine it up? How often do you change them? Do they just hang on their own weight? I see something in the N-scale gondola...is it weight to control the car? Any other info, please!


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## shaygetz

Fire21 said:


> Shay, please explain more about the Masonite pads...any covering or just bare Masonite? Do they just rub on the surface of the track and shine it up? How often do you change them? Do they just hang on their own weight? I see something in the N-scale gondola...is it weight to control the car? Any other info, please!


It's just Masonite, placed rough side down against the rails...no weights, no springs, just gravity...only the measurements change from car to car...










Cut you pad to width and length--about 1 1/4" - 2" or so, epoxy roofing or drywall nails along a center line about 3/8" form either end, drill holes to match in the car you're using, and you're off. Use a good car, the drag created equals about 3 cars, so you don't want to add trouble using a TYCO or Life-Like cast off.

I use magnets to mount them on rare tinplate, plus a bit of weight to track it well underneath...



















This is after just 4 laps around the Christmas layout...










A bit smaller for N...










...a 1/2 oz. of weight helps it track better...



















Hope that helps...


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## Fire21

That's awesome, I'll give it a try! Thank you.


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## deedub35

Davidfd85 said:


> I have seen something along the same line but using Whal clipper oil. I am using it now and have liked it so far with no problems.


Wouldn't this cause dust and debris to adhere to the rails? I own some Wahl clippers and buzz my lid every weekend. The lubing oil definitely does not repel hair shrapnel.


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## Kwikster

From the many reviews I've read in several different places, including model RR mags, it's seems it repels dust. Give it a try, it it works for you keep doing it. I read that tip like 20 years ago or thereabouts. 

Carl


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## BNSFcountryCA

Hey Kwikster. The tranny fluid or wahl oil?


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## Davidfd85

When I use the Whal oil I put a small amount on a Q tip and just put a very small dap about every 3 feet or so and then run my trains over the tracks for 15 to 30 minutes to spread it over the entire layout. I have used it twice about 4 months apart and have not seen any build up of dust or gunk on the rails so far.


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## BNSFcountryCA

David you just use whal oil and don't clean or even bright boy it at all?


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## jesteck

BNSFcountryCA, did he use Dexron (GM) or Mercon (Ford)? Just kidding.  From the application method, sounds like he's using it like Rail-Zip. Use as described I doubt there would be any serious long term problems, but trans fluid is a petroleum product, and excessive amounts of it could soften certain plastics, like ties or plastic wheelsets; I wouldn't recommend a steady diet of it if you have plastic wheelsets- you could actually increase the gunk on the tracks. I have no experience with clipper oil, so can't comment on it. That company is Wahl, by the way, not Whal (which makes it sound like whale oil. It's not.) I do know that Rail Zip works, but that it is designed to be a contact enhancer, not a track cleaning product; you still have to hit the rails once in a while with a "Bright boy" or similar and occasionally clean accumulated crud off your engine/engines' drive wheels. You can do this either by hand with alcohol and a Q-tip or by using one of the wire-brush type attachments that clips on your track or transformer to power-scrub the drivers. There are a couple of them out there.


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## BNSFcountryCA

Lol whale oil. I'll check out the rail zip


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## BNSFcountryCA

So trans fluid is a no go. I got mostly all plastic wheels


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## gunrunnerjohn

Truthfully, I wouldn't use any of these treatments. I don't want anything that leaves anything behind on the tracks.


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## BNSFcountryCA

I used the goo gone once to clean my track. The scented one. It smelled so good but left the track oily. Then I found out there are lots of different types of Goo gone and just happened to get the wrong one. But it's not a complete loss cuz the goo gone actually kills ants. And since it leaves a residue it keeps them away for days


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## Grabbem88

Transmission fluid is a detergent base petroleum which is rubber and plastic safe..

I guess not many here have torn down a newer automatic transmission..you got sensors seals rubber O rings etc.

Some are thinking you are pouring a quart of oil on your track and I'm sure people over do it..all you need is one drop of tranny fluid on a q-tip and do every 6-9 ft and no reapplication on the q-tip..

The op asked for answers and needs honest answers not opinions..

Masonite works great as well i use it

I also use pads and I used the best and most priceless ingredient if you got them...

That quality time with your kids/grand kids and have them clean the track for ya making them feel important ..


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## BNSFcountryCA

Finally a YAY instead of a NAY!!!!


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## golfermd

Probably the best track cleaning method is frequent use of the layout.  If you have any rolling stock with plastic wheels replace them as fast as practical with metal ones (Intermountain is our club standard) because plastic will leave crud on your tracks and you will be cleaning the track continuously.


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## Big Ed

Grabbem88 said:


> Transmission fluid is a detergent base petroleum which is rubber and plastic safe..
> 
> I guess not many here have torn down a newer automatic transmission..you got sensors seals rubber O rings etc.



Not only automatic transmissions, but manual transmissions too.
I was surprised when I changed the fluid on my 1999 Ford Pickup truck that my 4 speed with overdrive took automatic transmission fluid.


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## Grabbem88

That's true to big Ed but since this isn't a camaro forum like also frequent I kept it simple in terms of tranny fluid..

What is funny back in the day before all this micro lubricant stuff before an oil change or noisy lifters we'd use tranny fluid to clean the engine and knock crud off of parts


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## T-Man

For track I go with scotch brite and wipe with an oily cloth. Trans mission fluid I use for cleaning motors in bad condition and keep it away from painted plastic. I am converted to motor oil but to clean dust I or metal surfaces I like a light oil. Motor oil leaves more residue. I don't require the cleanliness you get from using alcohol. You would understand if you saw my track.


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## mustangcobra94

Grabbem88 said:


> That's true to big Ed but since this isn't a camaro forum like also frequent I kept it simple in terms of tranny fluid..
> 
> What is funny back in the day before all this micro lubricant stuff before an oil change or noisy lifters we'd use tranny fluid to clean the engine and knock crud off of parts


That's right we use to by marvel mystery oil only to find out it looked just like atf


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## Grabbem88

I use that stuff in both my 88 mustang and 93 camaro lol and one of them has 300k on the bottom end lol hint the 88 is on its 4th motor lol


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## BNSFcountryCA

I picked up a bottle of alcohol with that 91% whatever that ingredient is called. Been seeing how people here say to use 91-93. Couldn't find 93 at Wal-mart but 91 is good compaired to the 50% I was using. Used Q-tips and my god man, the track is filthy black stuff comes up. I used like 20 Q-tips both ends and only did like 40% of my track. I'm just gonna by a box of Q-tips so my wife won't complain.


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## BNSFcountryCA

Still haven't tested the engine on straight DC. I have much to do yet. Do the test, finish laying ballast/ground cover, cleaning the rest of the track. More track laying for my yard.... I can go on and on. Plus more mountains


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## BNSFcountryCA

It doesn't matter what's next as long as I have fun doing it. Thanks really all that matters


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## BNSFcountryCA

Stupid auto correct


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## gunrunnerjohn

Let's keep it clean in the language department, I edited the post.

I'm not sure why you're using Q-Tips, use a rag with alcohol, much lower impact on the wallet, not to mention a lot faster.


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## BNSFcountryCA

I've used rags before. I even went as far as to nail a rag on to a 1x1 block of wood. The Q-tips do a better job and yes it costs more and takes longer to complete the cleaning but It gets more of the black out. So it's worth it to me


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## gunrunnerjohn

What ever works for you.


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## sjm9911

I like the microfiber cloths. Wash and reuse!


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## gunrunnerjohn

I use old T-Shirt cloth, we have a big rag bag full of scraps, plenty of rags to do the job.


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## Big Ed

BNSFcountryCA said:


> I picked up a bottle of alcohol with that 91% whatever that ingredient is called. Been seeing how people here say to use 91-93. Couldn't find 93 at Wal-mart but 91 is good compaired to the 50% I was using. Used Q-tips and my god man, the track is filthy black stuff comes up. I used like 20 Q-tips both ends and only did like 40% of my track. I'm just gonna by a box of Q-tips so my wife won't complain.


You mean 91-99% I don't think there is a 93%.

All your using is 91% Isopropanol and the other 9% is water. Your 50% is a weaker blend cut almost in half. The 99% is 1% water so the strength of the alcohol is greater. 

I haul it so I bring home sample bottles, I didn't know that it is hard to find in the stores. 
But 91 % is really all you need. Safe on the hands too as this is what they wipe you down with say in a hospital, though theirs is food grade Isopropanol.

I use either 190 proof or 200 grain ethanol. :thumbsup:
Smells and works better. 

I bring that home in sample bottles too.............just for cleaning. :smokin:


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## BNSFcountryCA

I seen posts here and they say they have 93. I couldn't find it. 91 was the highest.


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## Fire21

big ed said:


> .............just for cleaning. :smokin:


Uhh, huh.


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## sjm9911

Bnsf, since were talking track cleaning, and your thread is now in the new section thanks to tman. How about track cleaning cars. We had some discussion on them here , did you ever try one? Ive just acquired one. I havent used it yet but it looks solid and might do a great job. Others make ther own, and others still sware by an expensive one. Ever think about it?


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## BNSFcountryCA

I've made my own. But don't use it. It was getting stuck at my switchers. I might modify it to not get stuck, After I clean all my plastic wheels. My dirty wheels have me cleaning my track every 2 weeks. I eventually wanna change them all out to metal. But I got over 50 cars so uh $150-200 to do it. And it's complicated due to the cars having different makers. I mean I bought a set of metal wheels to do 3 cars and on one of my cars the wheels was a little bit to wide which made them stiff and hard to free roll. I do like that metal clickety clack. Low speeds are the best.


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## BNSFcountryCA

I also picked up a used old revell box car and wasn't til I was looking thru eBay I found out my revell box car used to be a cleaner. It's just missing the posts and brushes. Once I realized how old it was (from the mid 60's) I freaked out cuz I know that weight in it is pure lead(cancer).


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## Big Ed

BNSFcountryCA said:


> I also picked up a used old revell box car and wasn't til I was looking thru eBay I found out my revell box car used to be a cleaner. It's just missing the posts and brushes. Once I realized how old it was (from the mid 60's) I freaked out cuz I know that weight in it is pure lead(cancer).


You are not going to get cancer from the lead in it. 
You're not going to eat it or grind it right. 

Remake your cleaning car with a floating pad, or do you have a floating setup?


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## The New Guy

BNSFcountryCA said:


> I freaked out cuz I know that weight in it is pure lead(cancer).












You are lucky to have survived this long.


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## BNSFcountryCA

I haven't messed with it since I broke the trucks by trying to take off the wheels. Nice all metal trucks with real springs. So sad


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## BNSFcountryCA

@new guy. Lmao


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## BNSFcountryCA

Lead causes cancer and so does McDonald's so I stay away from both


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## BNSFcountryCA

I was thinking of spring loading 2 nails and putting felt pads on the heads of the nails and weight it down with a bunch of change


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## sjm9911

Back in the day all the toys were made of lead, its more of a made up scare tactic of the time then its a health hazard. Im 40, in the 1980s it was acid rain, 1990s ozone layer,, 2000, homeless people, now its global warming. Unfortunately ,its mostly politics to scare us. Mostly.. lead is in a lot of stuff and mostly its not a problem, at least here in the us.


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## Big Ed

BNSFcountryCA said:


> I was thinking of spring loading 2 nails and putting felt pads on the heads of the nails and weight it down with a bunch of change


Use the change to buy trains, I would use good old lead myself. 

But first I would put on my hazmat suit and rubber boots with elbow length gloves and a self contained breathing helmet. Then I would work with the lead in a airtight box, the kind where you stick your gloved hands through to work. 

After I got done I would go into the decontamination room and decontaminate myself and dispose of all my gear in an airtight waste drum for shipment to the disposal facility.

I forgot to add that my suit and helmet would be fully reflectorized to conform with the safe world standards. :smokin:

That is what I would do. Never can be too safe in the safe world we live in.


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## jesteck

OMG! REAL LEAD! Things (and people) may be a little different in Cali, but here on the other coast the only lead we have to really worry much about comes out of guns, and even a lot of that is clad in copper. My grandfather, father, and myself were plumbers for most of our lives- a trade that goes back at least as far as ancient Rome, where the aquaducts carrying water into the city were lined with lead. Lead was used for water service lines in many major cities well into the last century, and at least into the 1970s the ability to "wipe" a lead joint for drainage piping was a requirement to gain a master plumbers' license, and cast iron pipe joints were still required to be packed with jute and sealed with poured and caulked molten lead above ground level. Shower drain pans were made from sheet lead. In fact, that's where I got the scrap lead to bring my plastic cars up to NMRA weight standards. Ever been salt water fishing? Those sinkers or dipsies you tied on the end of the line? Almost pure lead. Pewter mugs and cups and candlesticks? By definition, high lead content. The battery in your car? Lead plates suspended in a sulphuric acid bath, most likely. In my 69 years of exposure to lead, it never ate holes in my t-shirts. I can't say the same for brief accidental contact with battery acid. In short, don't lick the lead. Don't chew on it, even if it tastes a little sweet. Wash your hands after handling it if it makes you feel better, but for goodness' sake, don't be afraid to touch it or use it when and where it's appropriate to do so. It won't kill your brain overnight just because it's in the house; TV does a much better job at that.


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## BNSFcountryCA

Ok I got the point. Hey Mr Ed why not burn the suit after? Or would that put lead deposits in the air?


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## Big Ed

jestrck/ Here, at least in Jersey, they did away from making lead sinkers years ago.

BNSF......my sincere apologies, I didn't see you're from Ca.
I am sorry. 
Now I understand your concerns, I guessed you were raised in Ca?
That explains all your worries.


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## BNSFcountryCA

Yes man. And McDonald's has that warning sticker about cancer on there drive thru windows. Lol.


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## BNSFcountryCA

@Ed are you being serious or are you BSing me?


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## Big Ed

BNSFcountryCA said:


> @Ed are you being serious or are you BSing me?


I don't eat McDonald's. Have not in a long time now. Maybe once a year we get an order from Mickie D's.

BSing you about what? :dunno:


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## BNSFcountryCA

Oh ok


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