# Strip a metal frame.Lionel Postwar



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

With Postwar Trains aging It is expected to see more rusting. Some of the rust was there originally and after years may find itself to the surface. I am talking about painted boxcar frames. Once you get rust that is lumpy then it is time to repaint,

My preference is the gun blue frames. A little sanding one or two coats of the gun bluing acid and an oil wipe down is all you need.

The process is simple. Remove the shell and trucks, leaving the frame. 

I hold the frame with a food storage bag and spray it outside with EasyOff Oven cleaner. I try not to breathe in the fumes. It is nasty stufff. I cover the entire frame then close the bag shut with a simple twist and let it sit overnight. The next day I go over the frame with a scrub pad and a rag wipedown with paint thinner. This will get you to the picture. I only repeat if the paint is really stubborn and that may be normal for the older painted cars. Then I use a wire wheel on the frame and buff it out FIne sandpaper will work too.




Then it should look like this



Some rust is visible A dremel wheel could be used to totally clean it up but that is up to you. This is by no means etched in stone there are many variations to do this depending on how many people you ask. 






Then I paint I always use a primer . The gloss paint has to shaken very well. An improper mix will leach into the primer and bubble up. Then you have a total restart . I make sure I have a used can on a paint project. In the past I paint tins first to have a color library. I can place a tin next to a project and visualize the color.



Then a cheep black gloss. Cheep is good it sprays thin, not thick like some cans advertise.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Add the trucks with a clip then the shell. 







This is the non mechanized milk car. I used pliers for the shell removal it two large wire clips in the under side and I just twist it on and off a clip in the center. A screwdriver will most likely scratch the frame.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Looks like new, the recent ones I've painted I've used the bead blaster to strip them, that way I can have it done fairly quickly and be ready to paint.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

A big advantage to joining a club!

I can do this at home, in small time blocks at my leisure. During storms etc and even without power, though I may wait.

Some plastics can be stripped but I suggest testing first.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Without power? Horrors!


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

If you want exceptionally smooth durable surface, place the freshly painted part into a toaster oven at 160 degrees for 30 minutes. the paint will be perfectly smooth and uniformly reflective. 

Dan


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Ohhh preheat! Yes that is good advice. In winter painting I use a heat gun to warm the part. The spraying expansion cools it very quick and I will gently will reheat the item. Sun is the good helper in summer. 

I wouldn't normally think of heating in the spring but it would help I the finish.:thumbsup:


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