# C P R Pacific Project



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

A new project, this time Canadian Pacific. This series loco I think:

I have the steam chests moved forward so far. I plan to make this DC powered but that is a ways down the road and may not prove feasible.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Go Dano, Go. 

Custom, hand built tender to go with it?


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

:stroke:


big ed said:


> Go Dano, Go.
> 
> Custom, hand built tender to go with it?


Hi Ed, yeah probably but I may be able to use a tender chassis and just build the box. It is just as easy as trying to modify a Lionel tender, maybe easier! It has a very interesting corner ladder to replicate.:stroke:


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Re-mounted the attaching screw for the truck and final placement for the steam chests. There is a small bit of metal yet to be removed just for safety clearance for the wheels but it tracks okay as it is.


These locos had only a step at the top and lot of metal should be removed around the area of the steps, not sure yet how much I can afford to remove and still have it hold together.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Just a bit of tweaking to make sure the wheels have plenty of clearance.


More than enough to get around 31 inch curves.


----------



## cole226 (Feb 8, 2013)

dano,
your build looks good and i'm looking foward to seeing what your end results are.

but when i see that 75 year old 225, it's like, another old steamer gets torched


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

cole226 said:


> dano,
> your build looks good and i'm looking foward to seeing what your end results are.
> 
> but when i see that 75 year old 225, it's like, another old steamer gets torched


I understand where you are coming from but look on the bright side, she won't be a Shelf Queen, she'll be out there hauling freight! Although she could have done that without the hack job, I just happen to want some Canadian (looking) content on my 'railroad'. A cab swap with a 2056 is also in the works (I got one for cheap a while back so I can afford to use it for parts).


----------



## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

cole226 said:


> dano,
> your build looks good and i'm looking foward to seeing what your end results are.
> 
> but when i see that 75 year old 225, it's like, another old steamer gets torched


Ditto, that sentiment. I love the work being done, but on something as uncommon, these days anyway, as a 225 I shiver. A better choice, IMO, would have been a 2026, a lot more plentiful. Not to mention the siblings from that entire family, 2018, 2037 to name a few. 



Dano said:


> I understand where you are coming from but look on the bright side, she won't be a Shelf Queen, she'll be out there hauling freight! Although she could have done that without the hack job, I just happen to want some Canadian (looking) content on my 'railroad'. A cab swap with a 2056 is also in the works (I got one for cheap a while back so I can afford to use it for parts).


Yikes, another uncommon loco under the torch  Ah, well your RR, your stuff, your call. 

Venting over.

Carl


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

To clarify, the pre-war 225 has the inset feed water heater and the compressors, the 2056 has the larger and better cab shape. I bought the 225 purposely for this project (not for much money) and the 2056 is a beater which I did get running decently but I have one in better shape (you do know that I have also altered three Berks so far?).
Any how, moving on, the beginnings of the alterations to the pilot/steam chests unit. I had to cut it in half to get the job done and will have to reassemble it after getting all the extra metal sorted.

Just for the sake of interest, I also do the same thing to die-cast cars, some examples:



My motto, if it isn't out there and you want one, build it!


----------



## cole226 (Feb 8, 2013)

*a pacific for the canadian pacific*

lionel has been building these TOY trains for 100 years. kids have run , dropped, crashed, throwed, torn apart and put back together and then hid in attic/closet till another generation finds them and does it all over again. these TOYS are outlasting their owners.

keep up the tradition dano, tear em up and put em back together. play with them. that old 225 will be running for the next generation.:smilie_daumenpos: bet we can't say that for these $1000.+ their making today.

Dano,
those diecast cars are BEEEE-utiful man. really neat!:thumbsup::thumbsup:

keep pics coming.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Those die-cast are nice. :smilie_daumenpos:
On the Ranchero, duel exhausts coming out on the left side, the same side?
1/24 scale?

Nice very nice. 
You keep them or sell them in your store?


----------



## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Dano, I say rip em apart and play with them they way you want. If the engine was in collector shape , ID have second thoughts . To me it was not a pristine engine. And I don't think its that rare, I could be wrong ?


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Hey Ed, 
The Ranchero has dual exhausts (left and right) and mufflers with cut offs to the Lake Pipes for that straight pipe throaty roar! I sold the cars (they are 1/18 scale) to one of the local car club members, the fire-truck sits in the Chiefs office. I have done quite a few vehicles, they are all on photobucket: tanker49_2008, all public, mostly under vehicle conversions.
Meanwhile back at the ranch, I should say that although I have some post-war Lionel, I don't actually 'collect' it, I just like to run them on my store display track which is only 0-31 so most all scale rolling stock especially locomotives are non-starters.
I worked on the pilot and cab today until I decided it was 'MILLER TIME'! 
Thank you Cole and SJ, for me modifying them is all part of the fun. 
Some pics of today's progress:





As I said, at this point I cracked open a Sleeman so that is it for today!


----------



## Yukon Jack (Feb 1, 2014)

Great thread! Thanks for sharing your project. To me, this is what the hobby is about.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Some more boring shots of chewed up metal, still some to be removed before starting to add in details and re-work the cab. Just ordered some crossheads for later.
Not much to show for the past couple of days, it was our anniversary Monday, 41 years, I married the sheriff's daughter, I got 99 to life.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Let the healing begin!


----------



## cole226 (Feb 8, 2013)

[QUOTE
Let the healing begin![/QUOTE]

i think you need a whole box of bandaids!:smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Starting to fill in the holes. Hope to get started on the walk-ways over the weekend.


----------



## callmeIshmael2 (May 28, 2012)

It's a wonder to see the kind of bashing/drilling/sanding/blasting you're doing to move the original metal shell into the CP classic. I gawk at it and think, if that shell were laying on my workbench downstairs, I'd be looking for some heavy-duty painkillers and I'd stay in bed for two days, lol.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Lake pipes Ok, I forgot about them. 
It has been a long time since I had a hot rod type of car. 

One was an 64 Ford Falcon I built up. A small block 302. 880 Holley duel pumper carb, special heads, racing cam the whole 9 yards. Some one else built the engine his father was a big wheel at Ford and got a lot of the parts at a quarter of the price. He built the engine and tested it on an engine stand. Then he lost interest. 

I bought it and added it the a 64 Falcon he was going to put it in, I added a scatter shield bell housing hooked to a Borg Warner T10 4 speed. I think I had 390 rears? I can't remember, but I do remember thinking of putting another ratio in. He built it with a smaller carb and had regular stock manifold and exhaust headers, 
They claim when I added the hooker headers and a 880 Holley duel pumper carb sitting on a Edelbrock high rise Manifold it added a lot more horse power. They said with those 3 add on's it was pushing out around 375 horse. Someone in racing estimated just under 400. 
I don't really know how much it was horse power pushing, but the car would haul ***!:smilie_daumenpos:
It was a sleeper car, but there was no way that I could hide the engine noise. You knew I had something under the hood if you were sitting next to me at a light. I probably burnt a gallon of gas just waiting for the green light with the 880 Holley running on all 4 barrels all the time. 
I had tuned Hooker headers with a cutoff butterfly valve operated with a choke cable.
Illegal back then.
I didn't have any Lake pipes, when I pulled the choke cables it opened up the headers, I think it was near a 20 percent power boost. Scared the crap out of whoever was near me when I opened them up. 

Then I got married to the first wife, I sold the car body. I then moved the engine and trans around with me to a couple of different places where I moved. I finally sold those too. I got tired of listening to the first witch whine! 

Those were the days. I see cars like that today and wonder how they pay the gas bill. Cruising the streets back then I filled the tank around 4 times. Gas was around .33 cents a gallon. To fill the tank 4 times took around $28 or $30 bucks, back then that was a lot of dough. That is why I always had friends riding with me when I went cruising the strips. They all chipped in for the gas. That same gas bill would be over $350 or $375 for the nights ride at today's prices!

Now I see that there are electric cutoff valves in all sizes. Though my headers were 4" at the rear, I couldn't find any 4" cutoff valves on the market today. Though I didn't look too hard I guess there must be?

Back when I bought the 880 carb to put on it was around $60/$65 new. I added the tuned Hookers they were around $65/$75. I think the high rise manifold was only $45/$55 bucks back then. I can't remember exactly how much but it was nowhere near todays cost. That 880 carb new today would cost you around $700 or 800 today! Price the other 2 too at today's prices!

And I thought I was getting robbed back then.
Those were the days. 

Were those models in kit form? Just like they are?

I looked on Photobucket using tanker49_2008 and came up with nothing.
Do you have a direct link to your page?


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Try this Ed, 
http://s306.photobucket.com/user/tanker49_2008/slideshow/vehicle conversions
The models are bashed 1/18 scale vehicles, some with two or more doner vehicles and some scratch building with brass and plastic and whatever.
Sounds like you were quite the lad back in the day, as for prices, remember we were probably making a couple of bucks and hour too!


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Starting to begin to look like a locomotive again.
I had to make a new taller stack and dome and move them forward.



Ismael, the only pain is from grinder burn and metal bits under the skin!


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Added some window detail,


I will try to make the running gear a little more prototypical if I can get some Scout cross-head parts to work. I may set this aside until the parts arrive.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

It is looking more like a locomotive nowadays.


----------



## spoil9 (Dec 24, 2008)

subscribed.


----------



## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Wow, how did you.make the new stack. I never worked with metal before, some insider tips please!


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

sjm9911 said:


> Wow, how did you.make the new stack. I never worked with metal before, some insider tips please!


It is a piece of aluminum tubing. I cut about a two inch piece and bashed it with a hammer over the inside of the head of a big rivet to start the bevel and then put it in the lathe and turned it against a bit of rod to even it out. The metal is formable while turning, if I had a larger more powerful lathe I could have omitted the hammering. All that remained was to trim to length, cleanup the edges and J-B Weld in place. It is like roll-crimping a shot-shell in reverse.


----------



## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I was thinking flare tool, boy was I wrong! A lathe is one tool I.dont own.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

A flaring tool of the appropriate size would work just fine, I did not have one so used the rivet head to start the flare.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You could probably do the job with a drill press to spin it as well.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

I agree.


----------



## The New Guy (Mar 11, 2012)

Dano said:


> ...so used the rivet head to start the flare.


I can think of a few rivetheads I'd love to beat into a flare...purely proverbial, of course.

Dano, your work is inspired. I've really enjoyed the Vanderbilt and now the steamer coming together.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Thank you for the comments. 
Today's project was test running on DC current. I had the bright idea of by-passing the E-unit and running off a DC tranny, works fine but only in one direction depending on the motor hook-up. I thought that I would be able to control direction from the tranny but NO, it has no effect, who knew!
Any how, running everything from a DC tranny does simplify operation I just have to be mindful of which tender that I am dragging around, one does have a whistle!


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Try running the field of the motor with a bridge rectifier so it doesn't reverse polarity with the armature. Then try running in two directions.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Thanks John. It was just a test. I am running the rest un-modified with the E-units in place. Please don't tell me I will wreck something!


----------



## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

You can run post war locos with series wound universal motors on either AC or DC with no problems. The E unit will also work although the coil may get a little warmer on DC than on AC due to the inductance of the coil. Due to inductance, the coil has a higher impedance on AC than on DC and so draws less current.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

This morning I made the roof out of aluminum sheet and used CA and J-B Weld to anchor it down.

While it was setting I went out and did some brush work (could not do this for eight hours a day any more!).

Got back to it this afternoon and boxed in the cab. I am using mostly styrene on this part of the loco. I will drill out the holes and anchor the railings on before I attach the rear of the cab. The stanchions will also help anchor everything together.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

We look forward to the finished product.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

I got some access details added and the hand-rails to the cab. 
Going away for about a week so I may be out of the loop for awhile.


----------



## cole226 (Feb 8, 2013)

Dano said:


> I got some access details added and the hand-rails to the cab.
> Going away for about a week so I may be out of the loop for awhile.
> 
> Crafty there Dano:thumbsup:real nice with the detail.
> ...


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

The brush pile went to the mulcher, cost me a six-pack!:smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## Biggie (May 14, 2014)

Dano said:


> if it isn't out there and you want one, build it!


X2 :thumbsup:

Great stuff, also love what you did to your diecasts - custom all around!

Will be following this thread,

Take care,
Rok


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Thank you Rok


----------



## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

cole226 said:


> Dano said:
> 
> 
> > I got some access details added and the hand-rails to the cab.
> ...


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

I got this done before heading off to Regina. 
Missed some shots of a big CP loco, it stopped about 200 feet short to do some loading/unloading, it was all muck so I was not getting any closer.:smilie_daumenneg:


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Starboard walkway on.


----------



## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Frankin train lives. Looking good. Ill bet it will look better painted.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

I sure hope so!


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Next will be a 8-16-8 FrankenDano creation. :smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## Patrick1544 (Apr 27, 2013)

Your cars and the truck are excellent! Thanks for sharing. I'm sure the loco will be just as grand. Can't wait to see it fully restored.


----------



## The New Guy (Mar 11, 2012)

*more new additions*

My, what a shiny little dome you have...also a peened/beaten/caressed piece, or an off the shelf piece?


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

The New Guy said:


> My, what a shiny little dome you have...also a peened/beaten/caressed piece, or an off the shelf piece?
> 
> View attachment 36817


My bad, I did not document the construction, it was made from a piece of plumbing. An end cap filed to contour and soldered to a piece of brass to make the flange. It will look smoother once it is primed a uniform colour. I am not above raiding the lumber yard store for any bits and pieces that I can use!

Also, I appreciate all the comments, thank you for watching.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

A bit of documentation on the walkways for anyone that cares!


----------



## The New Guy (Mar 11, 2012)

Someday someone somewhere will undoubtedly be grateful for your pictures and techniques. 
I know I've learned a few tricks. 

It's really looking good.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Thank you.
It is easy to forget that some of us might be just starting out!


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

More progress, it has turned out that the front end of one walkway is about 1mm higher than the other, well within Lionel's tolerances!
I think there is about a 1/2mm rock to the locomotive's running gear.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

What are you using to attach it to the locomotives side?


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

I use J-B Weld and CA for most attachments, nearly always solder to join the brass bits together.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Dano said:


> I use J-B Weld and CA for most attachments, nearly always solder to join the brass bits together.


OK, Thanks.

I never soldered brass, anything special you have to do to solder the brass?


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Brass actually solders very easily, your biggest challenge is making it neat. I typically just clean it and use my old Rosin Core solder, but you can use plumbing flux for difficult jubs.


----------



## silver69 (Dec 20, 2013)

This is so neat, I love to watch someone build something.
Looking forward to seeing it done.

Thanks for posting
Steve


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Thank you Steve.
Today I tackled some small details around the pilot truck and steam chests. 
I shortened the wheel base of the truck and reduced the length of the component ahead of the steam chests.
You can see by the fit of the front of the boiler body that Lionel had large tolerances! I will have to address the fit at a later date.


----------



## 400E Blue Comet (Jul 11, 2014)

INVU
Oh wait.. I already have an O Gauge Hudson...
How do you get the tools to do stuff like build locos/what do you need? Just putting parts together?


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

400E Blue Comet said:


> INVU
> Oh wait.. I already have an O Gauge Hudson...
> How do you get the tools to do stuff like build locos/what do you need? Just putting parts together?


I don't think that I quite follow, exactly!?


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Beginning the alteration of the rods.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Dano said:


> I don't think that I quite follow, exactly!?



Hard to follow anything with all the emoticons dancing around.


----------



## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

He's a very empathetic person ed, geese!
Good job.dano! Copper plates cut down, fill us in on the how in case someone needs to do it in the future! Pictures are great , a how too is better. My metallurgy skills are lacking!


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Okay folks, for the record, I am an old dinosaur that still uses the Queen's English (or Webster's if you prefer!) and I still have trouble with text-speak etc.

As for cutting metal to shape, check out the Small Fabricating Project that I just finished.
Common tools were used such as small files and drills (I have a drill-press) and a small hack-saw. At times snips, shears and small nippers can also come in handy and of course several vises, almost a necessity. But mostly it is elbow grease, you are welcome to use a Dremel to save yourself some time if you prefer. Always be on the lookout for small tools that you may be able to use for small hobby projects. You may find them at garage sales, craft stores, hobby shops, jewellery suppliers, hardware stores, even antique shops sometimes have old hand tools that could be useful. I have a mixture of modern tools sold today in hobby shops and craft stores as well as some old watch making tools and stuff left over from my gun-smithing days, a pile of odds and sods that has taken me a life-time to accumulate.
I also tear apart any old computers, VCRs and etc., or especially type-writers, if I am lucky enough to happen across any, just to get the small parts.

There are people (God bless them) that have up-loaded videos to YouTube showing how to do various jobs in real time and I am not shy about stealing some 'tricks' and making use of the methodology used and you shouldn't either!

At this point I must again apologize for failing to remember that not everybody has my experiences or experience to draw upon. My only defence is that while doing the job at hand I am not thinking of much else and only think of taking a picture somewhere down the road from where I started and then forget that how what was done is not obvious to everyone.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Of late I have got the cross-heads mostly done. I slid a piece of aluminum tubing over the bar to turn it into a rod and enlarged the hole in the steam chest to accept it. I was able to re-use the bolt. I tapped out the hole in the cross-head with a tap and bolted the assembly together. Although it is tight I will probably peen the end a bit after all the test runs are completed.
I still have to lengthen the valve gearing bar a tad to complete the alteration. There is also a 'hanger' that lends some support that I will only simulate (somehow).


This is the small tap used to cut the threads. Years ago I bought a large box of old taps at a garage sale, never regretted it.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

First test run.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Pictures of the completed running gear.


The axle of the rear truck is all bent out of shape so I couldn't use it during the test. I have to fit a draw-bar to it as well. I will also add some detailing to the cross-heads as well as add on the supporting 'hanger'.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Coming along! A boiler front would probably enhance the appearance.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Yeah John, I know. The one that I have fits crooked and the door does not latch properly. I have to do some tinkering with it to make it presentable. Then there is the whole issue of the hand-rail passing around the bottom edge of the boiler front.hwell:


----------



## silver69 (Dec 20, 2013)

looking good!
I like the video


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Dano said:


> Yeah John, I know. The one that I have fits crooked and the door does not latch properly. I have to do some tinkering with it to make it presentable. Then there is the whole issue of the hand-rail passing around the bottom edge of the boiler front.hwell:



Just make your own "custom" brass boiler front. :smilie_daumenpos:
Even with the missing truck it seems to run around nicely.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

big ed said:


> Just make your own "custom" brass boiler front. :smilie_daumenpos:
> Even with the missing truck it seems to run around nicely.


That is a possibility, Ed, the real one has a much smaller door. Meanwhile I have taken a hack-saw to the front and will be doing more rearranging above the cross-heads. I hope nobody has fallen in love with the way it looks now, 'cause it aint a gonna stay that way!


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

I did some modifications to bring the front end closer to the way the prototype looks, not exactly, but closer.


Tomorrow I will tackle the fake ensemble above the cross-head. It should be below the rod, I think I have a plan.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I put these together to get a size perspective of the front.
I see what you mean about the real one being just a little bit smaller.
Does that really matter? Who is going to know but a rivet counter? 
Wouldn't it be hard to make one out of brass? I am talking about all the nuts holding it on that would be the hardest part right, or do you have a model supply of something like the nuts to add?

What is over the top of the light a number board plate? Just add that?
You going to fabricate the side rails running around the front like in the real picture?

I can't tell from the black and white picture, are those front markers green on the real one?

I think that front would look good, but I am not a rivet counter. :smokin:
Too bad they didn't have different colors instead of black, the real one is all black right? Maybe the cab roof was a different color?

Looking good. :smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Gotta' have that number board above the light, that really stands out in the prototype.  It would be cool to have the number board lighted as well.


----------



## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

I am really enjoying your threads on these builds! I found myself gathering up leftover pieces of styrene at work so that I might try and build something if the right idea comes along!
Randy


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Hey guys, the whole idea is to make enough changes to make it look less like a Lionel production loco and more something like a CP loco, at a glance, IF Lionel had made it, so it still fits in with the rest of the rolling stock behind it. Lionel may have used an existing casting for the boiler front or not depending on whether the hand-rail circles the plate, they may have decided it was not worth the trouble or cost. But so many other changes would probably been have been necessary a new boiler casting would have had to be made. 
I have pretty much decided to run the hand-rail because it will set it apart more from the production loco. The boiler front fits crooked, I could make a new one from brass and add a whack of bolt or rivet heads, it just takes time.
If I was really WORRIED about exact detail and 'rivet counting' I would be buying/running two rail brass!
2317 has been restored, lots of colour pictures, punch in CPR 2317 and go to images.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Yes I looked at some of the pictures but none show the color of the markers. Matter of fact a lot that do show look almost like a clear lens.

Nice shot, I guess you saw this one.
Heavily copyrighted I won't post their pictures but linking is OK. 
I think?  It says to use the link over the photo but I did not see one?

http://www.railpictures.net/viewphoto.php?id=176076


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

You can see how complicated it could become. I will not go much beyond trying to lower the plate and adding the vertical bracket. The colour of the markers don't bother me!


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The markers would probably be white or green, many also have switchable lenses so they can change them to suit the operating environment.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

I have cut away the fakery above cross-head and drilled a couple of mounting holes for the bracket, these will be tapped later so that I can bolt everything on.
I wanted to change the angles on the swivel but the metal started to crack so I will have to grab some stainless strip at the shop tomorrow and make a couple. I will do that before I start making the brackets so that I can see how much clearance I will need.
I have also added a bolt to the centre of the cross-head.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

A little rust cleanup is called for there.


----------



## DirtPiper (Dec 24, 2013)

It's beautiful O.O

I'm all for custom-made locomotives, but this really takes the cake.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

So I have a 'mock-up' of the bracket and hanger which would work but I would like it heavier and made out of only two pieces. In theory it could be folded out of one piece of plate if cut and folded properly but that may be 'a bridge too far'!


----------



## callmeIshmael2 (May 28, 2012)

Dano, one of the reasons I'm following your progress closely is because (probably a bit like you and the rest of our Canadian readership) I grew up close to a CP mainline and watched lots of Canadian Pacific steam before I was 10 or 11 (which would have been about 56/57) when diesels had pretty much taken over. I saw Hudsons, Pacifics, and smaller including 0-8-0's and 0-6-0 yard goats. Watching your engine progress swells my pride, because to me, the beauty of the original CP glossy tuscan and gold lettering is hard to beat. As large as Canada is in size, most of us had only 2 RR's, CN and CP to appreciate up-close. Your re-creation of a 40s-50s CP filly is something 99%+ of us can only appreciate at a distance.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

While the loco is simmering I thought that I would make a start on the tender.
I gathered up some styrene and commenced to cutting.





It was about now that I realized that I had lost track of what I was going to do and ended up causing myself a little extra work!


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

callmeIshmael2 said:


> Dano, one of the reasons I'm following your progress closely is because (probably a bit like you and the rest of our Canadian readership) I grew up close to a CP mainline and watched lots of Canadian Pacific steam before I was 10 or 11 (which would have been about 56/57) when diesels had pretty much taken over. I saw Hudsons, Pacifics, and smaller including 0-8-0's and 0-6-0 yard goats. Watching your engine progress swells my pride, because to me, the beauty of the original CP glossy tuscan and gold lettering is hard to beat. As large as Canada is in size, most of us had only 2 RR's, CN and CP to appreciate up-close. Your re-creation of a 40s-50s CP filly is something 99%+ of us can only appreciate at a distance.


Why thank you very much!
All of the trains that I saw and rode on were CN. My cousins lived in Boston Bar and when we travelled there or to the farm in Sask. or out to Winnipeg it was always CN. I was shown over a brand new CN diesel, I think an F unit, the crew were as proud as punch and did not seem to be sorry to be saying goodbye to steam! I did see some GN/BN come in to Keremeos but I don't think they do it anymore. Now in my travels, I mostly see Canadian Pacific.


----------



## TundraBoy (Nov 5, 2012)

callmeIshmael2 said:


> Dano, one of the reasons I'm following your progress closely is because (probably a bit like you and the rest of our Canadian readership) I grew up close to a CP mainline and watched lots of Canadian Pacific steam before I was 10 or 11 (which would have been about 56/57) when diesels had pretty much taken over. I saw Hudsons, Pacifics, and smaller including 0-8-0's and 0-6-0 yard goats. Watching your engine progress swells my pride, because to me, the beauty of the original CP glossy tuscan and gold lettering is hard to beat. As large as Canada is in size, most of us had only 2 RR's, CN and CP to appreciate up-close. Your re-creation of a 40s-50s CP filly is something 99%+ of us can only appreciate at a distance.


Yes Ishmael, you are so right. I saw mostly CN but have a soft spot for CP!

Dano, your work is incredible. I only wish I was closer to view it first hand. Maybe some day!


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Thank you, guys, meanwhile back at the ranch, between unloading freight and helping the odd customer I managed a little progress.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'm impressed with your progress on the tender, pretty cool! :thumbsup:


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Thank you, John. The loco is on my bench downstairs ready to be tackled again. I think that I have a plan!


----------



## silver69 (Dec 20, 2013)

Tender looks good so far
Really looking forward to seeing both completed


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Okay, so here is a few hours work:


There is still a bit of finish filing to do and maybe replacing the screws with bolts but the assemblies are basically complete. I think that is the last critical operation to perform.


----------



## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

Replacing the screws would be good, they kinda jump right out at ya.
That is tremendous work on this project. :appl: :appl: :appl:
Can't wait to see the finished product.

No way in the world I would even attempt any thing like this. I don't know how you do it. 

Magic


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Thank you, Magic. I guess that I do it because I can, sort of anyhow. The same as people on here do electronic wizardry, something that I believe is akin to dabbling in the Dark Arts!


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

I have added a few more bits and pieces to the tender shell. I was half planning on sticking it onto a tender frame but the wheel base should be shorter so I will have to make a new frame for it, probably out of brass. I have a couple of passenger trucks which are similar to the prototype, if a little short in the wheelbase.
I am waiting for Lionel to get their parts department back up and running so that I can get the rear truck for the loco, similar to the prototype, even then I will have to do some tinkering with it.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Coming along nicely.

That is a whistle frame?
If you make one are you going to add the whistle?


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

No Ed, no whistle. The frame won't be used; I will have to construct a custom chassis. I will have to get one of those sound systems to make more noise!


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Here is a test of the relative heights, as you can see it rides a bit high, about the height of the low bolster that is pressed into the truck mounts. I will try making a flat mount and see if everything will still function. The rear coupler may touch the frame and may have to be given a bit more room.


----------



## silver69 (Dec 20, 2013)

Dano, you've got the skills! 
I love what you have done so far. Keep it up and you'll be done soon.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Electronic OK, with the chugger sound?

Man you whipped a frame together quick, you going to add any weight to the tender?


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Ed, I cheated on the frame and went with more styrene. The brass strip was about 5/32 inch too narrow and I did not want to cut up a larger piece. It will probably be heavy enough without any added weight. I routinely run a stripped Lionel tender (for added pick up) without any problems.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Weight is easy to add after the fact if it doesn't have enough. I'm assuming it's two pieces and you can get to the inside, right? I didn't actually see how you did the chassis.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

It is solid at the moment, John, but I can change that in a thrice! With truck mounted couplers weight is not a problem when towing half a dozen or so pieces of rolling stock.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I just wondered how you were going to get the command electronics inside the tender!


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

I plan on standing there and screaming at it!:cheeky4:


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Everything seems to line up, and a draw-bar fitted, but no trailing truck as yet. I plan on getting it to the shop to give it a test run tomorrow.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Looks like everything fits.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Another boring video from Dano's train yard:




It seems to run okay so now to get back to adding more details and sorting out that trailing truck.


----------



## cole226 (Feb 8, 2013)

*CPR pacific*

give yourself a pat on the back, nice build:thumbsup:


----------



## silver69 (Dec 20, 2013)

Cool!
What color will it be painted?


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

silver69 said:


> Cool!
> What color will it be painted?


Something like this:
http://www.okthepk.ca/dataCprSiding/articles/201104/images/foto00.jpg
Just ordered a couple of trucks from Lionel, hopefuly one of them will be useful.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

I got back to the tender over the weekend.


----------



## silver69 (Dec 20, 2013)

Very nice!


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Resplendent in fresh black paint!


----------



## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

awesome!!!


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Looks GREAT! Nice job!


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Thanks John. I got the trucks sorted out today and should have it all combobulated tomorrow. I may even buy a new ink cartridge for my printer so that I can print the side panels.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Dano said:


> Thanks John. I got the trucks sorted out today and should have it all combobulated tomorrow. I may even buy a new ink cartridge for my printer so that I can print the side panels.


I had to look that word up (combobulated) . Guess what there is no such word.:dunno:
But I know what you mean, strange thing is that there is a word discombobulated. But no such word as combobulated.:goofball: How can that be? How can you become discombobulated when you can't be combobulated in the first place? 
After exhausting research I came to the conclusion that, being discombobulated means being upset, disturbed, unsettled, agitated, confused. 
So the opposite of discombobulating would be something like soothing, uplifting, enlightening?

When you paint the locomotive, what are you planning on doing to all the running rods and all the new brass stuff you fabricated on it? All black?
Tender looks great.:smilie_daumenpos: Does the water hatch actually open?
You must light up the tender lights right?


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Take a look at DIY Vinyl Lettering. If you weed the lettering yourself, it's quite cheap and you get a nice professional job. They have some pretty thin letters, and I've been told that down to about 1/4" letters they work very well.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Ed, in my neck of the woods, when applied to machinery, discombobulated means apart, disconnected.
Thank you John, I ordered a set, if it works out I have a Canadian National diesel project in the works.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Dano said:


> Ed, in my neck of the woods, when applied to machinery, discombobulated means apart, disconnected.
> Thank you John, I ordered a set, if it works out I have a Canadian National diesel project in the works.


And...........When you paint the locomotive, what are you planning on doing to all the running rods and all the new brass stuff you fabricated on it? All black?

Running rods too?


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Ed, like this:
http://www.okthepk.ca/dataCprSiding/articles/201104/images/foto00.jpg
I cobbled together a new boiler front, it is not mounted yet, I am into my first Sleeman, something to do tomorrow!


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

So, this is the rear truck that I have started to re-engineer into the type on 2317.


One side finished.

Completed and painted. At this point I noticed that being scale it is just a tad wide and I mulled over the idea of cutting out 1/8 inch to narrow it but since the connecting rods are too wide I decided to leave well enough alone.




It sat a little too low with the first wheels that I wanted to use so I swapped out a set of larger wheels.


----------



## callmeIshmael2 (May 28, 2012)

Coming along awesomely! My wife makes me (occasionally) sit and watch HGTV (Home and Garden TV), and it's given me ideas for projects around the house, etc. Watching your progress on this wonderful CP steamer gives me a bit of hope for working on some of my tougher projects. Progress, not perfection for me, but yours appears pretty close to perfection.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

It could be said that doing these projects keeps me from doing 'worthwhile' projects around the house/yard!
As for perfection, it just has to look pleasing to the eye and if I have accomplished that, then it is a success.


----------



## silver69 (Dec 20, 2013)

Nice progress, really is looking great


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

I have spent the last little while doing some tweaking of the wheel and truck fit etc. Took it for a test run and some small issues showed up. Did some detailing to the boiler and mounted the crystals. The sharp-eyed among you may notice that they are a bit high but they are a bit more protected from damage nearer the feed-water heater, one of those compromises.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'll bet you can still knock those class lights off.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Yes you could, John, but you will have to work at it!


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

A couple of more details made and added.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

The rear trucks look sweet. :thumbsup:

What are the holes in the boiler's front for? The round grab rails?
The lights look OK where they are at, what do you plan on that locomotive having a big wreck when you're done? 

The whole thing looks great. :smilie_daumenpos:
It is going to be worth over a thousand bucks by the time you get done.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Hey Ed, you could be right about the cost, I don't think that I will cost it out, I might scare myself!
The two holes are for the hand-rail stanchions, the boiler front and hand-rails will all slide forward as a unit.
I just purchased a broken down Royal Hudson off Ebay, banking on it being repairable.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

I finally got a hand-rail made that I can live with (only three tries!). Now to remove the shell, for I hope the last time, and do some painting.


----------



## cole226 (Feb 8, 2013)

Very nice:thumbsup:
looks great


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Thanks, Randy. I have been stuck on this blessed hand-rail for a week or so and the paint on the tender is not coming along as well as I would like either!


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The railing looks great, straighter than I do them!


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Thank you, John. It actually fits closer in to the boiler front so I will be using cotter pins instead of the short stanchions pictured. Getting the proper relationship (or at least close to it) around the front of the boiler was the nightmare.
Dan.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Getting a bend that nice and the long runs staying straight is a challenge, and I can attest to that first hand! This one looks very nice.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

I used piano wire so it stays straight but I had to take the temper out of a short section to do the curve. Like I said, three tries!


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

The tender sides before any touch-ups etc.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

What needs touchup? Looks pretty good to me!


----------



## stevetil (Sep 6, 2011)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> What needs touchup? Looks pretty good to me!


Maybe he means touchup to make it look old, dirty, and used.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

I am adding a few individual rivets and touching up some paint that was removed during installation. 
The panel is printed on photo paper and then 'riveted' with these tools from behind.

A bit of CA is run along the line of 'rivets' to harden the paper.
The whole panel is then glued to the side of the tender using acrylic gel medium.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Nice work. :thumbsup:


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Thanks for the thumbs up John. 
I got a set of lettering for the name as you suggested but every time I tried to paint the side I ended up with bleeding and or a rough edge. After twice having to remove paint I decided on the method described. It also made it easier to add a bit of rivet detail.
The loco is going to be even more of a headache!


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Looking good, almost done. :smilie_daumenpos:

I like your rivet tool, do I see a $1.50 price tag on them? You sell them in the store?
What did you do? Pound some nails in and epoxy them tight?
Grind different heads for different rivets sizes?

You still need the number board?


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Hi Ed,
The price refers to the 2 foot piece of basswood that they were made from. You have got the manufacturing process pretty much ironed out except I just soak the ends in CA.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Well, I am calling this tender pretty much done. I may put a bit of a filler behind the coupler just to make it look a little more connected!


----------



## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

That is truly beautiful work. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Magic


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

And I think you are justified in calling it finished! That's pretty amazing work for a scratch built tender. :smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Does the door open up in the front of it? 

Sure looks nice. :smilie_daumenpos:

Your drawbar on the locomotive sure looks long, almost looks like it might rub on the rail?


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Thanks guys. 
Don't worry Ed, the draw-bar works just fine, the same height as the pilot. It looks long because the connection is right at the tender front.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I guess the door doesn't open. 
That would have been another nice touch if you could have made them open somehow.
Do they even make tiny hinges that small?


----------



## cole226 (Feb 8, 2013)

:smilie_daumenpos:nice job!:appl:
tender looks great, and the old 225E has really taken a new shape. great details to the prototype.:smilie_daumenpos:::smilie_daumenpos::smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I missed a lot on this thread, great project and it looks awesome! Cant believe all the progress, great job.

Anyone would be proud to have that running on there rails! Unbelievable work, and a lot of hints for the less handy modeler, me! Thanks.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Thanks for the comps guys!
Ed, there are lots of details that I COULD have put on that I didn't, in keeping with its 'toy scale' appearance. 
Now if I could just find that small bag of coal that the kids gave me for Christmas a few years ago I could top up this one and the previous CN tender build.


----------



## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Dano,
The loco and tender are very nice pieces of work. I appreciate what you have done but I don't have the time or patience to do what you did. I am not a modeler but rather an operator that really enjoys making very complex layouts with many switches but no scenery or buildings. The layouts are on the floor and walking around the layout would be difficult with scenery and/or buildings. 

All I can say to you it you did a great job.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Dano said:


> Thanks for the comps guys!
> Ed, there are lots of details that I COULD have put on that I didn't, in keeping with its 'toy scale' appearance.
> Now if I could just find that small bag of coal that the kids gave me for Christmas a few years ago I could top up this one and the previous CN tender build.



I was only kidding.
Do they even make workable hinges that small?


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

servoguy said:


> Dano,
> The loco and tender are very nice pieces of work. I appreciate what you have done but I don't have the time or patience to do what you did. I am not a modeler but rather an operator that really enjoys making very complex layouts with many switches but no scenery or buildings. The layouts are on the floor and walking around the layout would be difficult with scenery and/or buildings.
> 
> All I can say to you it you did a great job.


Track all over the floor! Aren't you afraid that 'People Will Talk'?


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Hey Ed, I actually have some barn door type hinges about a quarter inch across but really, making a couple of hinges would be one of the simpler things to do.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Wow, you can make small brass hinges easily?
I am guessing when I say brass.

Like I said, I was only kidding about making the doors open up.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

This is a quick lesson on a method of making a 'barn door type hinge' for Ed and anyone else that may be interested.

I think the drawing pretty much explains it all (I made a small mistake, the left hand hinge half should have been shown the same length as the right, only the tube is shortened). The 'blank' is made from a long piece of tubing and strip joined together. A simple version is to just to cut and stack them but it does not look as tidy.
Size and shape and complexity are left up to the scale desired and skill and imagination of the builder.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Looks just like any other hinge.


----------



## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

Also used on carriage houses, garages, stables... The whole point is that the door can be lifted off with the hinge pin easily.

Most hinges contain multiple sections that hinder the ease of removing the door by the pin. :smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

May I present 2317!
Is it perfect? A long ways from it but I think it is a recognizable result.


At any rate, you won't have me clogging up the band-width until I come up with a new project!


----------



## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

All I can say is WOW! I sure have enjoyed watching your progress and BOY oh BOY what a fantastic result. Thanks for letting me tag along.
Randy


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Thanks Randy. You never know how these things will turn out once begun and it is all out in the open if you screw up (or, heaven forbid, fail to deliver)!
Dan


----------



## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

Really enjoyed this thread. :smilie_daumenpos: and the results are beautiful. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Magic


----------



## cole226 (Feb 8, 2013)

*Cpr*

LOOKS REAL NICE! thanks for letting us follow along and the how to's.:thumbsup:


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Outstanding result, it really looks great! :thumbsup:

Only a few will know how long it took to achieve that result, very nice.


----------



## TundraBoy (Nov 5, 2012)

Dan, that is truly a work of art....very impressive!

Now if we only had a video of it in action!

Ken


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Looks just like any other hinge.


John, I would like to see one of yours in O gauge please, we all know you probably have made one or maybe thousands all ready.

I know the fundamentals of a hinge.
I still think making one in O would be tedious.

HO even so more, N scale forget it.
Except for John, it would be a piece of cake.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Dano, the 2317 came out great!:smilie_daumenpos:
Two number boards?

How much you asking for it?


----------



## cole226 (Feb 8, 2013)

QUOTE=big ed;291097]Dano, the 2317 came out great!:smilie_daumenpos:
Two number boards?

How much you asking for it?[/QUOTE]

probably a whole bag full of looneys and tooneys right Dano

ONE OF A KIND:cAnada:


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Thank you all for the plaudits. 
First, not for sale, at least not now.
Second, 2317 had two number boards, the bottom one was a brass casting and the top one a light box.
I will get some running footage up on the video site in a day or two once I replace the F units presently hauling a passenger consist (I also have to make sure there is no paint on the wheels!).
Dan


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Outstanding result, it really looks great! :thumbsup:
> 
> Only a few will know how long it took to achieve that result, very nice.


Thank you John. 
And most would wonder why I bothered!


----------



## rrbill (Mar 11, 2012)

Very fine work, Dano. The loco and tender look very much like scale, brass units. Nice of you to share your truly unique models with us.


----------



## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Thank you Bill. I have a tendency towards over detailing but I tried to keep myself reined in and not do too much so that they would fit in with my post-war Lionel.
I was surprised at the amount of applied detail the pre-war Lionel have so I did a little more than I did on the previous 6153 project. It is also possible to focus on the details too much and lose the overall picture, which is what happened on 2317 but I will leave that for the sharp-eyed to discover! Bonus points if they can tell why!


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You made so many mods that finding one that's off would be a needle in a haystack!  All I can say it it looks great!


----------



## silver69 (Dec 20, 2013)

Wow
This turned out great!
Now we just need a video of it pulling a long line of cars.

Thanks for sharing the details with us.
Steve


----------

