# Expensive lessons learned on learning American Flyer rebuilding



## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

I am starting this list of mistakes that I have made as I try to rebuild and/or restore 60 to 70 years old American Flyer stock.hwell: I will post more as I remember or become aware of my mistakes. Feel free to add any good tips that would help snooks like me to avoid future costly mistakes.
1. CRCLectric-Motive electric parts cleaner is great on metal electric parts but melts plastic! I will be buying new knucle couplers and a couple of RC barrels due to melted plastic.
2. Don't soak Field Windings or Armatures in solvents. It can remove the lacquer insulation on the field wires. 
3. Spend as much time cleaning and polishing track, turnouts, locomotive and rolling stock parts.
4. (more to come)

Of course, read all the posts on this forum and especially pay attention to FlyerNut's and Cramden's. Not so say many others!


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## dooper (Nov 9, 2015)

For electric parts, There is a Radio Shack Electronics Cleaner product that works well without harming plastic. Unfortunately my local store has closed, but it should be on line. I bought all they had before they closed.(lol)
Al


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

My can of CRC says safe for plastic. Maybe not. Thanks Broke. Sorry you had to learn
these things the hard way.

My can does not say "Non Flammable". Don't ask how I found out. No damage done.


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

mopac said:


> My can of CRC says safe for plastic. Maybe not. Thanks Broke. Sorry you had to learn
> these things the hard way.


All I know is that when I sprayed it on a couple of knuckle couplers the plastic melted. Also, it got on the side of a tanker body that was made of plastic and it melted it also. My can says "do not use on Poly carbonate plastics...". I should have read the fine print.:thumbsdown:


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Guys don’t read instructions, is first thing. We also don’t read the fine print, with warnings on the label, until something catastrophic happens, after it’s too late, and the damage has been done. And not train related, but we never ask for directions, even when we are totally lost, with the Mrs. harping at you, to ask directions....ROFLMAO!!!:smilie_auslachen::smilie_auslachen:


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

BrokeCurmudgeon said:


> All I know is that when I sprayed it on a couple of knuckle couplers the plastic melted. Also, it got on the side of a tanker body that was made of plastic and it melted it also. My can says "do not use on Poly carbonate plastics...". I should have read the fine print.:thumbsdown:


I think I posted awhile back not to get the CRC on knuckle couplers. It melted mine too...


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

flyernut said:


> I think I posted awhile back not to get the CRC on knuckle couplers. It melted mine too...


All I have to do is to remember what I have read.:laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## yd328 (Dec 19, 2017)

Broke,
Thanks for posting. Sometimes we just learn the hard wayhwell:

Gary


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

We need to realize not all cans of CRC are created equally. CRC has a variety of products.
Some say "plastic safe" others don't. Some cans say "non flammable" some don't. Read
your can. And if you are not sure, ask.

I got my can at Walmart. They only had one choice of CRC. It is not the same CRC that flyernut uses.
I would think an auto parts store would have more choices. Except for a tender fire mine has worked good for me. LOL.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

In California we have Fry's, a big box chain of Electronics supply stores. They stock several variations of electronics cleaners. Never had a problem using the proper electronics cleaners on my trains. I have not seen the same cleaners in Pep Boys or O'Reilly's. I am currently using a zero residue cleaner by MG Chemicals.
California has strict regulations on what can be sold in the state so many cleaners, paints and landscape products sold elsewhere are not available here.


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

BrokeCurmudgeon said:


> I am starting this list of mistakes that I have made as I try to rebuild and/or restore 60 to 70 years old American Flyer stock.hwell: I will post more as I remember or become aware of my mistakes. Feel free to add any good tips that would help snooks like me to avoid future costly mistakes.
> 1. CRCLectric-Motive electric parts cleaner is great on metal electric parts but melts plastic! I will be buying new knucle couplers and a couple of RC barrels due to melted plastic.
> 2. Don't soak Field Windings or Armatures in solvents. It can remove the lacquer insulation on the field wires.
> 3. Spend as much time cleaning and polishing track, turnouts, locomotive and rolling stock parts.
> ...


5. Think about basics. :laugh: Most problems are simple. Don't allow yourself to be led down the garden path by forgetting the most basic fixes. Such as simple mechanical adjustment, cleaning and lubrication. Don't forget basic Ohm's Law.:smilie_auslachen: (I have spent a couple of months with great discouragement because of excessive voltage drop and low current capabilities with the power leads from my test bench transformer.:thumbsdown: I learn and try to move on.:hah::hah::hah:


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

When I rebuild a Marx motor, I disassemble it. and dump it lock stock and barrel into a gallon can of carburetor cleaner.
The only problem I have ever had, once the connecting wire insulation on the motor, swelled up. which was not an issue as I simply removed the wire covering and slid on some shrink tube.
That even included the bulb, which comes out looking like a new bulb.
One more item, I remove the coil for the E unit. Do not soak in the cleaner, only because it is too hard to remove all the moisture.
I then rinse all parts in warm water and dish soap, Then a drying by using a air blower. Make sure you do the parts individually when drying, as they can fly a LONG ways, and can be hard to find. I could the number of parts and make sure I have the same amount when finished. I place the dirty parts in the basket that comes with the cleaner. I've had the same gallon of cleaner for 20 years.
Once again, when you use compressed air to blow off the water, do them one part at a time. 

Dan


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I would say that is cleaned up. Good job.


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

BrokeCurmudgeon said:


> I am starting this list of mistakes that I have made as I try to rebuild and/or restore 60 to 70 years old American Flyer stock.hwell: I will post more as I remember or become aware of my mistakes. Feel free to add any good tips that would help snooks like me to avoid future costly mistakes.
> 1. CRCLectric-Motive electric parts cleaner is great on metal electric parts but melts plastic! I will be buying new knucle couplers and a couple of RC barrels due to melted plastic.
> 2. Don't soak Field Windings or Armatures in solvents. It can remove the lacquer insulation on the field wires.
> 3. Spend as much time cleaning and polishing track, turnouts, locomotive and rolling stock parts.
> ...


4. Always check the gauge of the wheels to eliminate derailings
5. Clean and check tension on the pickup springs where attached to the wheel axle to help eliminate starting and stopping of engine
6 Don't give up when all seems lost. Post War American Flyer technology is basic and by using common sense one can usally figure it out. (If one things that it is very complex, then one is leading oneself down the garden path. It generally is just basics!)


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