# Triggers for operating accessories



## SkyArcher (Oct 20, 2010)

Well so far for my layout, I have 4 Gatemans, 5 or 6 #252 or #152 crossing gates, two #154 Flashers, a bell dinger and a semaphore. I also have two insulated track sections.

While I could gang up the accessories off the insulated tracks. I think that I want to try to trigger each accessory individually without spending an arm and a leg ie for example on the Lionel 153IR unit.

What are the different ways to trigger the signals? Any DIYs using infrared sensors or Hall Effect switches?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'm planning on optical sensors for mine. Another thing you can do that's a DIY solution is an insulated track section. You can roll your own from a piece of track.


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## limitwheel (Jan 8, 2011)

I have several of trackside signals as well and was looking for way to trigger them. I believe that Classsic Toy trains had an article several years ago using relays, reed switches and magnets. If someone can come up with inexpensive optical circuit, I think I would go that route.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I think the optical route with small sensors at track level is a better way to go. Reed switches and magnets sounds complicated and loaded with issues of exact positioning.  

I am still thinking on either having a single unit in the track reflecting off the bottom of the train or dual units on either side of the track. I like the single unit for the simplicity and the fact that it'll be pretty much invisible, but the dual unit would probably have the edge in reliability.


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## SkyArcher (Oct 20, 2010)

Do you have a schematic for a optical sensor? 

For my Bell dinger, I may use a reed switch since I don't want the dang bell dinging on every car.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Not currently, I'm still considering how I'll do it, and the exact sensors to use. FWIW, when I lay this out, it'll have a holdoff on the trigger so that it'll stay triggered for the whole train and not cycle for every car. Now, if you stop the train, then it'll probably trigger after you start again.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

John,

I have not idea if it's practical, small enough, or cheap ... but how about one of those optic sensors that you would have near the bottom of an automatic garage door ... the one's that trip the door back open if anything is in the way of the light beam?

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I think it might be more expensive than I want to go. I'm looking for bare sensors that are only a couple of bucks.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Circuits????
You got to be kidding.

Rob Paisley Light detection circuit


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I have that site marked, he was going to be my first stop when I am closer to ready. He appears to have solved the stuff that I was thinking about, mainly the detection angle.


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## inxy (Dec 10, 2010)

http://www.building-your-model-railroad.com/train-signals.html for an interesting write up on type of sensors for controlling crossing gate, block signal, etc. Also lists some manufacturers for circuit boards and such.

B


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## SkyArcher (Oct 20, 2010)

How would you set up one of the Rob Paisley light circuits?


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

That's simple, if I haven't posted it yet, I haven't figured it out.
I am still on block signal operation and simple track detection.
I used his auto reverse circuit. It took me months.

You do need a light shinning down on a sensor. This was discussed in one of the Peter Thorne books

InXy I am not sure if I like that site. It appears on many of my searches but has no value in information. Do you like it? That is my first impression.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I looked at the site *InXy* posted too, and came to the same conclusion. A lot of text, not much useful information other than a ton of vendor links.

I'm thinking that I'll use the across the tracks sensors for positive sensing.


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## inxy (Dec 10, 2010)

SkyArcher said:


> How would you set up one of the Rob Paisley light circuits?


I don't have a clue. Honestly I have not got to the point where I need sensors. Still wiring switches and trying to figure out whether to run two or three trains and set up blocks to do so. Running three trains is a nightmare for setting up blocks in my layout, so run two, then figure out the blocks and then start looking at sensors. All in time.


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## inxy (Dec 10, 2010)

I have not yet found a really good site for setting up blocks, signals and sensors. It seems that the manufacturers sites are more informative than the articles that I have found. I'm still looking.

I do like the one manufacturer that uses two photo sensors placed at an angle for sensing. Price of was reasonable. 

As a computer nut I tried the Train Player program to see if it would be of help in establishing blocks on my layout - waste of time.

Right now I am trying to get switches wired to controllers, making jury rig control panel, waiting for drive wheel for the 1666 loco and finish restoring my Yankee Flyer (remove rust and paint done-reinstall windows and grab rails next). In between that I won a ebay bid on a 610 Pullman (need roof for diner) only to get a 608 whose roof of too short. So I get my money back and get to keep the 608 which brings me to offer a 608 in pieces ready for restore for $10 plus shipping. I don't need/want it. 

Out of cigs and need to my our lawn service billing. Out of here for awhile.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The closest I have come is the toaster board. Aside from working as a block it can activate an accessory for 15 seconds. 

HO guys use Reed switches with Magnets to activate.

Old school S is the outer rail/pole. Use a spring on a bocxar that has a ground and use it to touch a pole trackside. If you stop the accessory can run until you move on. If you rig a timer you can use it as a switch. Or use a pair connected to a relay to go on/ off.

The isolated third rail from the 0 027, users.

Then you have a micro switch activated by mechanical touch. I have one but it is misplaced among my tables.

For electronics most parts are avalable at Radio Shack. Since I do more I went bulk from ebay and buy pieces in lots for a lot less.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

inxy said:


> I don't have a clue. Honestly I have not got to the point where I need sensors. Still wiring switches and trying to figure out whether to run two or three trains and set up blocks to do so. Running three trains is a nightmare for setting up blocks in my layout, so run two, then figure out the blocks and then start looking at sensors. All in time.


Two words... *Command Control*. 

I've been doing the planning of the layout and come to the conclusion that wiring to manually control blocks will be a real PITA. I've made the leap into TMCC and gotten the Lionel Legacy controller. I've upgraded one engine, I documented the process here. I'm going to upgrade my Williams PRR GG-1 to TMCC as well. I have a couple of others with factory TMCC, so that will get me going.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I am loosing TRACK, Two or three threads are close in information so hopefully all will get this thread. I got this from the S forum on making controllers. this has posssibilities.


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## SkyArcher (Oct 20, 2010)

Ding!!



> Old school S is the outer rail/pole. Use a spring on a bocxar that has a ground and use it to touch a pole trackside.


I like this idea!! I have an 069 bell ringer and I'd rather that the bell ring just once as the train goes by. This sounds like a plan!!

I was looking in my parts box and I have a few 555 and a few photoresistors so I think that I can put together some light triggers.


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## inxy (Dec 10, 2010)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Two words... *Command Control*.
> 
> I've been doing the planning of the layout and come to the conclusion that wiring to manually control blocks will be a real PITA. I've made the leap into TMCC and gotten the Lionel Legacy controller. I've upgraded one engine, I documented the process here. I'm going to upgrade my Williams PRR GG-1 to TMCC as well. I have a couple of others with factory TMCC, so that will get me going.


Now you have me looking at TMCC after spending considerable time perusing various circuit board mfgs. Electronic or manual I still have to run wire from switch to whatever. As you say a real PITA. To run the trains and keep track of what your switches are doing electronic control seems to be the way to go. To run to trains on my layout with thirteen switches and 9-10 blocks is more than my mind can keep up with. And I don't have Alzheimers yet.

Look at: http://www.jmri.org/ You have a free computer program to run everything and just have to buy the circuit boards for the accessories, switches, etc. Program is compatible with a number of mfgs.

After three days of procrastination it is time to start running switch wire

Somebody needs to come up with a WiFi system so attach a small black box to switch and forget wiring.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

The circuit with the 555 timer driving the LEDs can have an increased current drive if you use a 2N2222 or similar transistor to drive the loads. Wire up the 2N2222 as an emitter follower. 

Bruce Baker


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

inxy said:


> Now you have me looking at TMCC after spending considerable time perusing various circuit board mfgs.


I came to that conclusion early, thinking about trying to run 3-4 trains at once and manually manipulating the block controls is more than my tiny mind can handle. 


> Somebody needs to come up with a WiFi system so attach a small black box to switch and forget wiring.


Well, I use the Lionel SC-1, I got a pair of these for $15/ea on eBay. You still have to wire to the switches, but you can put the SC-1 anywhere on the layout.


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## SkyArcher (Oct 20, 2010)

Well, I just scored a lot of contactors. When they get here, I'll see if I have enough to ring, swing and drop my accessories.


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## inxy (Dec 10, 2010)

Finally came to a decision on triggering devices. The majority of my railroad equipment is prewar and that can be said about recent and future purchases. Radio Shack, circuit boards and some sensors did not exist in prewar times, so I will use what was available then in keeping with the overall prewar theme. Defiantly a brain strain to run things. Old connectors are cheap on ebay leaving my more funds to buy more trains. 

Now have sixty feet of wire run for switches to manual controls. Now to mount the controllers on a panel and connect every thing. What fun !!?!


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

In HO someone had a diagram with nail heads at switch points. If a train needed a route you follow the path and touch the nail heads on the path to activate the switches. It would seem fast ansd simple. Direction lights would help on the board. It was Lester Perry.
How about this for old school detection


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Where's the pickups?


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

This loco looks like it was modified for outside 3rd rail operation.
BB


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

There was so much solder I think it had center contact. Yes, it may have been an outside rail but both sides???
I replaced it . The engine is 1666


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Yes, outside 3rd rail operation may have the rail on either side. That gets you past switches, etc. The Long Island RR is outside 3rd rail as are the subways in NYC.
BB


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## SkyArcher (Oct 20, 2010)

I just got this today. Three different types of triggers. Two 153C contactors, A 145C contactor and a 154C contactor. The 153C has double poles and the 145C is single pole. The 154C is neat. When the train wheels runs over the pads, the lights flash on the 154 Crossing Flasher. Cool and ingenious.


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## inxy (Dec 10, 2010)

I need a slew of the 153c's. About $10 ea on Amazon or cheaper on ebay.

For wiring block signals see; http://ia700202.us.archive.org/3/items/Lionel_How_To_Install_No_153C_Contactors/Lionel_153_C.pdf

For gate man/flashers, etc. see:http://www.lionel.com/media/servicedocuments/71-4091-250.pdf

Found two 153c's and one 145c on my old train stuff. Years go when a kid had a gate man wired to a 153c. Once adjusted for weight it worked well.

B


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I have some 153C's, I'd have to look and see what I have...


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I just use an isolated outside rail.

For crossing lights I used this. The thread


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

T, you can cut two pieces of track, one on either side of the signal, to avoid the "delay." It will give you an even more varied strobe effect.

BB


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

BTW, I scored some of the triggers at a swap meet for $1 each. I bought all the guy had.
BB


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Yabba Dabba Dooo*



servoguy said:


> T, you can cut two pieces of track, one on either side of the signal, to avoid the "delay." It will give you an even more varied strobe effect.
> 
> BB


I like that idea. I went to the drawing board and decided I need a TJ ground bar to complete my ground circuit. It would cross over and be inserted into the underside of the rail.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

T, I am not sure what you are doing? 

BB


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

T-Man said:


> I like that idea. I went to the drawing board and decided I need a TJ ground bar to complete my ground circuit. It would cross over and be inserted into the underside of the rail.



Uhhhh ... errr ... Thanks ... but what brilliant idea did I have, actually? 

(I have so many, you know ... it's hard to keep track of them all!  )

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I reviewed the old thread . I don't have a delay. Two isolated sections next to each other.
The curve was designed for two signals so there is a ground between the two sets.

The new plan is just isolated sections on opposite rails. This splits up the ground so I make a bar that inserts from the underside. I think TJ had the idea of inserting metal for a rail lock on.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Oh, yeah ... how 'bout that! Without really knowing what I was doing, I jammed little crimp-on wire terminal connectors up into the slots on the underside of my O27 track as power lead sources.

Thanks for remembering, T!

TJ


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## SkyArcher (Oct 20, 2010)

Neat trick, making your own isolated track. :thumbsup:


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You can make an isolated full track by simply prying off one outside rail and insulating it with some cardboard like cereal box material, just like the center rail is done. That's what factory isolated track looks like.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

That's true, length is a matter of use. You want a full length for a block signal or ac accessory like a watchman. That is all in the track thread. Here I want a short blink so a short track is needed.


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## SkyArcher (Oct 20, 2010)

Should I use relays for solenoid operated accessories like the gateman or the crossing gates.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You can power them directly from the isolated tracks, no need for relays.


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