# Kadee coupler - magnetic question



## Walman (Dec 18, 2011)

As I have said before I am just starting my layout so have almost nothing invested in engines and cars. I am going to use the magnetic delayed uncoupler system from Kaydee in my small yard and larger industry sidings. A couple of basic questions:

1) I am going to retrofit the ~8 freight cars that I have with Kaydee couplers (and metal trucks). When ordering the parts do I need to find/order a coupler called "magnetic" or will any of the metal Kaydee couplers (like the whisker #158 as an example) work?

2) I am modeling modern era and I am not concerned whether my coupler looks like a prototype so based on this is there a specific size/number of coupler you recommend I standardize on?

3) Factoring in the answer to #2 above when buying cars and engines should I try to get them with the matching standardized coupler or just plan on upgrade each time I buy?

4) Thoughts on metal truck upgrades? Again quality and cost more important than looks to me.

Thanks!

Walman


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## lajry (Aug 4, 2011)

Walman
There's no "Y" in Kadee. And if all your tracks are w/in reach just use a "stick" to uncouple. It's so much faster & easier. And you don't have to worry about spotting the couplers over the magnet til they separate. back up & go forward.


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## golfermd (Apr 19, 2013)

I'm not sure if the modern era has much of a difference on couplers, but the Kadee "148" whisker should meet 90% of your needs. Kadee "5" is the non-whisker version of the same coupler.


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## Walman (Dec 18, 2011)

*Thanks...and....*

Thanks golfermd. 

Anyone have thoughts regarding the second and third question? 

Or I'll summarize and you guys tell me if I am am wrong: If I buy cars with "Kadee Magnetic Couplers" then can I assume they will work with my magnetic uncoupling system "as is". When I go to buy couplers for retrofitting freight cars I need to buy "Kadee #148"?

Lastly any thoughts on truck upgrades?

Walman


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

The Kadee coupler is the standard for model railroading and
they get as close as is possible to prototype railroad couplers
which have changed little over the years. They will be correct
for your selected model scale. The Kadee numbers are for
various special shank lengths or for adjusting vertical 
alignment.

It's always nice to get a car with Kadee couplers (or the similar
types from other manufacturers) but it is not difficult to install
either the #158 or # 5 coupler on a car if it comes with the
ugly horn hook kind. The non Kadee couplers do work with
Kadee but Kadee is the best choice.

I have both plastic and metal trucks. In most cases the truck
material is not that critical and under certain circumstances
metal ones could cause annoying electrical problems.
Metal wheels, tho, are far better than plastic.
They roll better with less friction and make a pleasing sound on the rails.

I do use the new improved magnets for uncoupling but even they
are not guaranteed to work. You will need to learn the HOG (hand
of God) technique for uncoupling cars. It is a standard procedure on
most layouts. 

Don


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## lajry (Aug 4, 2011)

DonR said:


> You will need to learn the HOG (hand of God) technique for uncoupling cars. It is a standard procedure on most layouts. Don


The HOG method is so much faster & easier to use than using magnets. BTW it's the curved "trip pin" hanging off the bottom of Kadee couplers that's magnetic. It's supposed to represent brake pipe hoses. Alot of modelers using HOG cut them off because they aren't prototypical to them. Now there's brake pipe hose models that have tiny magnets that "lace up" themselves. Rix makes an uncoupling tool that has magnets but it's so much better using HOG. It does take a little practice but once you get the hang of it you'll like it.


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## cv_acr (Oct 28, 2011)

Walman said:


> 1) I am going to retrofit the ~8 freight cars that I have with Kaydee couplers (and metal trucks). When ordering the parts do I need to find/order a coupler called "magnetic" or will any of the metal Kaydee couplers (like the whisker #158 as an example) work?


All of Kadee's couplers have the trip pin for magnetic operation. Also all of the other knuckle coupler knock-offs and copies feature these trip pins and are designed to be compatible. (Not the old "horn-hooks", and not the Sergeant couplers; those are a completely different animal and design.) Otherwise, they're basically all compatible.



Walman said:


> 2) I am modeling modern era and I am not concerned whether my coupler looks like a prototype so based on this is there a specific size/number of coupler you recommend I standardize on?


The Kadee #5 is the defacto standard. The #148 is the same, but with the improved whisker-spring mounting.

The #58/158 is similar to the #5/148 but with a smaller head for a more realistic closer to scale size appearance.



Walman said:


> 3) Factoring in the answer to #2 above when buying cars and engines should I try to get them with the matching standardized coupler or just plan on upgrade each time I buy?


Unless you're buying old secondhand or consignment stock, most all new cars today come with a version of a knuckle coupler installed. Usually a plastic knockoff like Bachmann EZ-Mate or McHenry. Almost never a real Kadee. These are however, fully compatible with Kadees.



Walman said:


> 4) Thoughts on metal truck upgrades? Again quality and cost more important than looks to me.


I assume you mean metal wheels here.

A lot of newer stuff also comes with metal wheels installed, but some things and pretty much most older stuff still has plastic wheels.

Metal wheelsets usually roll better and are generally considered to keep things cleaner than plastic wheels.

I replace any plastic wheels with metal wheelsets from Intermountain.


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## lajry (Aug 4, 2011)

Some metal wheel sets have plastic axles. So you have to be careful installing them in trucks or you'll end up w/ wobbling wheels.


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## oldsarge218 (May 23, 2011)

If you go to the Kadee sight, you can access a conversion chart there which will help tell you which Kadee coupler any particular car would require. I would post a link, but don't know how. Simply going to Kadee.com will get you the information, and a whole lot more.

God Bless
Bob


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## lajry (Aug 4, 2011)

*Kadee coupler conversions*

Kadee coupler conversion guide:
http://www.kadee.com/conv/hocc.htm


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Get yourself a coupler gage as well so that you can check to see the couplers on all of your cars are the same height.

I've got knuckle style couplers on all of my rolling stock and I love them. Of the various brands - I like Kadee the best from a durability and spring design standpoint.

I started out setting things up to use the magnetic uncouplers, but I now use the HOG technique....too many times I wanted to uncouple cars where there wasn't a magnet.


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## lajry (Aug 4, 2011)

Here's a link to the Kadee coupler height gauge:
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/height.htm
Click on blue #s on left for your gauge. The HO ones are 205 & 206. 205 is the old metal one & 206 is the new plastic one that can be left on the rails w/o causing shorts. They can also be used for trip pin clearance & checking track gauge. Of course if your layout has a crossing low trip pins will always be very noticeable. :smilie_auslachen:


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## Walman (Dec 18, 2011)

*Thank you everyone*

Knowledge absorbed and applied 

Walman


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