# Table : Some examples ?



## billboquet (Feb 15, 2012)

I know for lot of members, this step is the easiest one, create the table.

But for novices like me and for the non manual people and unexperienced people (again like me), it's difficult when we never saw some examples of what could be done and how to prepare the table (top and also under).

This simple question, is quite important for me to begin my project.
Layout design is almost ready with 4 x 8' so need now to go to next step.

Any pictures, link or whatever will be appreciated
Thanks


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

NMRA tips ...

http://www.nmra.org/beginner/bench48.html

TJ


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## xrunner (Jul 29, 2011)

Well here's mine. I used old interior doors I had in the attic for the table top. I put on fascia and made a space 1" above the top for the foam layer. I built the legs myself with adjustable feet. Since these pics I added on even more space with another door, in the same manner. I didn't build it to hold a track plan I had in mind - I built the track to use the available space I created.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Thumbs up on adjustable height feet (for non-level floors)!


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## billboquet (Feb 15, 2012)

Thank you to you both, it gives me some ideas, especially the level adjustment, very good idea.
I will do my best to have one as much respectable as possible 
Thanks again, I like this forum, good answers and fast !!
Joe


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

billboquet said:


> Thank you to you both, it gives me some ideas, especially the level adjustment, very good idea.
> I will do my best to have one as much respectable as possible
> Thanks again, I like this forum, good answers and fast !!
> Joe


You could add coaster wheels, the lockable ones, if you need it to move.


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## kursplat (Dec 8, 2010)

look at lots of people's build threads. you'll find good pictures around here of bench work. some flat table style, some open latice with foam on top and some open latice with a spline for the rail line and mesh/plaster for the terrain. each has some good and bad points.
for a first time with little wood work experience the flat table like xrunner's pics should work well 

good luck :thumbsup:


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## fotoflojoe (Dec 31, 2011)

I'm knee-deep in the middle of building my table here. It's L-girder construction, and proving itself to be very strong - it's held my fat 260 pound butt off the floor. 

I'm discovering that the best quality of this construction method is that it tolerates less-than-perfect measurements and cuts, and the finished product still looks pretty darned good.

The whole thing is based on Linn Westcott's benchwork construction book. The book also covers closed grid construction, but it's pretty clear that Westcott is a proponent of the L-girder method. It's out of print, but your local library should have a copy.

Hope this helps, good luck with your project.


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## billboquet (Feb 15, 2012)

fotoflojoe said:


> The whole thing is based on Linn Westcott's benchwork construction book. The book also covers closed grid construction, but it's pretty clear that Westcott is a proponent of the L-girder method. It's out of print, but your local library should have a copy.
> 
> Hope this helps, good luck with your project.


Thank you, I just ordered one and will see.
A new version of this book will be issued in March but I think it will be more basic benchwork


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## inxy (Dec 10, 2010)

I used 1/2' plywood with 2 x4 cross supports for the plywood and 1 x3 for the side framing. Legs are 4 x4's. 1/4" lag screws to bolt legs to 1 x 3 framing sides and casters on the legs to move the whole thing around in the garage. Probably overkill but it isn't going anywhere. Layout is 4' x 12'.

B


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

I use 1x4 for the outer perimeter, 1x3 for the reinforcements placed 16" on center and 2x2 legs w/1x2 angled braces for the legs. My father (250lb) has sat on the table with no problem. Holes pre-drilled into the braces under the layout (like in xrunners example above) make routing the wires under the layout easier.

For the adjustable height on the legs you can use nut-serts (treaded insert) that go into a 3/8" diameter hole in the bottom of the legs, you simply screw a bolt into the nutsert and level accordingly....very cheap and easy.


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## billboquet (Feb 15, 2012)

Thank you for sharing your own way to prepare. I will certainly use lot of ideas from all of you.
Joe


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## benjaminrogers (Feb 24, 2012)

I have a question. What scale is this in? Just curious because it looks like the board doesn't have space for a large radius unless the walk through gap closes with track on it. I've had the same idea for an HO layout but wasn't sure how you were handling it.

Thanks,

Ben



fotoflojoe said:


> I'm knee-deep in the middle of building my table here. It's L-girder construction, and proving itself to be very strong - it's held my fat 260 pound butt off the floor.
> 
> I'm discovering that the best quality of this construction method is that it tolerates less-than-perfect measurements and cuts, and the finished product still looks pretty darned good.
> 
> ...


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## fotoflojoe (Dec 31, 2011)

Oh, I see what you mean.
The walk-through will employ a lift-out bridge for continuous running.

The track plan - such as it is - is in HO, will have a minimum radius of 26" for the mainline, and 18" for industry.

The mainline itself will be a glorified squared oval, very loosely based on the Heart of Georgia HO layout.


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## benjaminrogers (Feb 24, 2012)

Thanks for answering! I'm guessing that you won't even decorate the lift out bridge? My goal is to have a long continuous run without tight turnaround ovals like a 4x8. I want to run about the same as you; a nice passenger line with towns and a freight/industrial line. Maybe a smaller coal or lumber line too. No switches really. Just a long run that I can enjoy doing with my girlfriend and daughter.

Ben


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