# Refinish 2026 (since everybody's doing it!)



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

OK, you guys are all making these great looking locos, I decided to dig out an old and beat up one and see what it would look like with a new paint job.  I have this 2026 that doesn't have any broken bits on the casting or cow-catcher, the motor runs great after a bit of cleaning, so it seemed like a good candidate. As you can see, it's in desperate need of refinishing. 

What's the easiest way to strip all the old paint off this one to start. Is it paint stripper or oven cleaner? Not sure about oven cleaner on the diecast metal, but maybe that's fine?


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I have had better results with oven cleaner. The paint stripper is all eco friendly nowadays so nothing beats the all toxic oven cleaner.

I use a paint thinner to wipe down the shell after all the cleaning is done.I let it sit for a day to see if any white spots appear. The I repeat with the thinner. This assures the reaction is done.

I used a bag too the more fumes the better.
Once, I let it set overnight so I was concerned about the final cleaning.

Have fun and don't breathe in the fumes!:laugh:


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

John,

Is the original cowcatcher on that loco a separate part/casting ???

I use EasyOff Heavy Duty oven cleaner for stripping ... they yellow spray can (not the blue one). Spray/foam, cover in a tray (or glass pan, etc.), with the intent of having the foam stay wet ... you don't want it to dry out. I always let the tray sit outside in the shade, for safety ... it could get quite hot.

After a few hours, rinse the part down while rubbing it with a ScotchBrite pad. Often, I repeat the strip process a 2nd time.

After that, I remove all of the residual surface grime with a Dremel stainless brush ... this step takes some patience, but it really gets the metal surface super clean/shiny, and well prepped for primer/paint.

A home-made ScotchBrite Dremel buff "wheel" works well, too, for getting in tiny nooks and crannies.

Have fun!

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

What specific oven cleaner do you use? 

FWIW, I did find a break, the cast retainer on the rear for the tender hook is broken on one side. It's sitting in the corner with JB Weld on it right now to secure that, I'll give that at least a day to cure before I proceed. I should be able to make that repair pretty invisible. I may drill up into the frame and secure it with a screw as well as the JB Weld.

Quite and education on the 2026 when I started looking, they came in many flavors! I think I may opt for the liquid smoke conversion as well. I'm considering a colorful paint job on it, none of this basic black.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I'm considering a colorful paint job on it, none of this basic black.


Oh, Jeez ... now Big Ed is gonna start making a pitch for his beloved Alien Green!!!

(We cross-posted ... Easy Off on my end, per comment above.)

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

TJ, uses Easy Off, more potent than my dollar store no name brand.

If you have a small torch you can solder it . Heat the joint, fll it, and press. Hold till it cools.

Never mind, I used epoxy in the 5690 thread.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Too late, I already have it smeared with JB Weld, so that's the way it's going. 

I'm thinking a green like the Southern Crescent or the like, I like that color.


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## lionellines (May 18, 2011)

-----


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, there are so many chips that I think stripping it first is the right way to go. Now, I won't necessarily try to get every bit of black off it, but I want most of the paint off and then I'll smooth any bumps. I don't see any shell damage, so I think it should look decent once I get the old paint off. 

As far as black, black 2026 locomotives are a dime a dozen, so I figure on something else.


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## joe7034 (Feb 3, 2011)

This is what I used on my refurb job. I used a paint brush and coated the engine, put it in a plastic store bag, and I was used a steel bristle brush, then I washed it with water. And the smell won't kill you

Joe


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I have some paint stripper, different brand. I might give that a try first, yours seems to have done a decent job.


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## joe7034 (Feb 3, 2011)

John, This worked really well, the tender was tin plate and most of the paint stuck to the bag, it was just a matter of getting into the creases

good luck
joe


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

tjcruiser said:


> John,
> 
> Is the original cowcatcher on that loco a separate part/casting ???
> 
> ...


The cow-catcher/steamchest is a separate part on this one.

I'll have to visit the supermarket for my oven cleaner if I go that way. I think I have some pretty nasty paint stripper, maybe that will work.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I can't imagine any commercial stripper would damage the metal shell. Should work fine, I'd guess.

Strip away!

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

joe7034 said:


> John, This worked really well, the tender was tin plate and most of the paint stuck to the bag, it was just a matter of getting into the creases
> 
> good luck
> joe


There are more creases on a diecast shell, so that will be fun. 

I think my bonding job is done, so I guess I'll have to get on this. Tomorrow I'm cutting a whole bunch of pipe for the supports for my ceiling track, so it'll have to wait until after that.


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## joe7034 (Feb 3, 2011)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Tomorrow I'm cutting a whole bunch of pipe for the supports for my ceiling track.


I would love to see pictures of your supports, I used brackets under my ceiling track

joe


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

joe7034 said:


> I would love to see pictures of your supports, I used brackets under my ceiling track
> 
> joe


All you had to do is ask.  This was my "proof of concept" try with them, and they were very solid and easy to hang, so I'm going ahead with them.


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## Zeke (Feb 22, 2011)

CITRISTRIP!! I love Citristrip!

For any audience members who may be lurking - DO NOT use it on plastic!!!!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

tjcruiser said:


> Oh, Jeez ... now Big Ed is gonna start making a pitch for his beloved Alien Green!!!
> 
> (We cross-posted ... Easy Off on my end, per comment above.)
> 
> TJ


I have been checking out florescent paints.

But not for my 2065 I have been thinking about doing one of my "cheap" Scouts with an alien color.
Question does all florescent paint glow? Or just certain kinds?
Do you have to have a black light to make them glow when you take a picture?



Zeke said:


> CITRISTRIP!! I love Citristrip!
> 
> For any audience members who may be lurking - DO NOT use it on plastic!!!!


Why did you do that?:laugh:

If so show us a picture of the results please.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, the stripper I had didn't seem to be the right stuff for the job, so I got the Heavy Duty Easy-Off and hosed it down. I stuck the pieces in a plastic freezer bag and hosed it down some more and sealed it up. We'll see tomorrow how it fared. 

I hope it all works out, I ordered the liquid smoke replacement part and the headlight lens I needed, hate to waste them.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Be careful that the Easy Off doesn't eat through the bag and damage anything its resting on.

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

It's resting on a concrete floor in the basement, eat away!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, I can say for sure that you should NOT use oven cleaner on any painted surface! 

I have a bit more to do with the Dremel with the Scotch-Brite wheel and I'm ready for a final rinse and prime.

It's interesting that the cowcatcher didn't get light like the shell, almost like it has an anodized finish.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Well, I can say for sure that you should NOT use oven cleaner on any painted surface!


John,

Looks great ... shiny! It should dress up with fresh primer/paint nicely.

I laughed at your Easy Off comment. I do most of my Easy Off stripping outside the garage ... and usually carry a tray of "been stripping" parts through the garage to rinse them off in the utility sink ... through the VERY NARROW garage ... right along the side of my beloved PT Cruiser. Though I am careful, I find myself holding my breath every time I take that walk "along the edge", with horrid visions of oozing/running/dripping paint along the sidepanels of the my car.

It really is a horrid dream that haunts me endlessly!!! 

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

> It really is a horrid dream that haunts me endlessly!!!


As well that dream should! 

I did this in the basement, I have a deep-sink down there. I must admit, I might do it outside next time, the fumes are special. 

On the plus side, the big cookie sheet that we use to put under things in the oven never looked so clean as it does now, that's what I worked on. I left the oven cleaner on that overnight as well, it shines now.


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## lionellines (May 18, 2011)

The steam chest or "cowcatcher" as you call it isn't painted. It's chemically blackened.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

That would make sense, I thought it had some finish that the oven cleaner didn't bother.  Since it has dings and scratches, it'll have to be dealt with in the refinishing, I'll have to consider how to do that.


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## lionellines (May 18, 2011)

Painting, either flat black to simulate the blackening process, or another color seems to be the best option. Re-blackening them is not easy.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Oh, it'll be painting, no way I'm going to try the chemical process! 

I was thinking flat black for it, then a color on the shell. Have a bit of contrast.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

What's the current consensus, should I use a metal primer first and then put the color on?


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

It's looks great, John! :thumbsup:

I use Bondo Scratch putty for small dings. No mixing, just splat it from the tube and let dry. Even Wallmart carries it.

I always prime, grey.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I have one casting flaw in the headlight that I'd like to fix before I paint. Maybe I'll take a trip to Walmart and get some primer and Bondo. Other than that, the shell looks very good. Most of the dings were in the thick paint, not in the shell.

There are machining marks in the casting, I was wondering if you ever tried to remove those or just let sleeping dogs lie?


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

From my research, they recommend a white coat first before you paint the florescent paint on. It shows the florescent color better.

Just in case you were thinking painting it florescent.


What color did you decide on?


Besides the steam chest, I always thought the very front was a cow catcher?
You mean to tell me it is not a cow catcher?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, It's not going to be florescent, of that you can be sure. I'm thinking along the lines of dark green. Besides the steam chest, the thing on the front has been called a _cow catcher_ for as long as I remember. It was supposed to sweep livestock away and not let them get under the train.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

lionellines said:


> The steam chest or "cowcatcher" as you call it isn't painted. It's chemically blackened.





gunrunnerjohn said:


> Well, It's not going to be florescent, of that you can be sure. I'm thinking along the lines of dark green. Besides the steam chest, the thing on the front has been called a _cow catcher_ for as long as I remember. It was supposed to sweep livestock away and not let them get under the train.



That is what I thought. I wonder why he worded his response like you were calling the steam chest a cow catcher?

How about a darker green for the blackened pieces? To go with the other green.

I thought you were thinking red?

I am thinking of one of my scouts for an alien green paint job.
I got enough of them.

My 2065 is still undecided, but it won't be an alien color.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

John,

If the front (separate) casting piece was originally chemically blackened, that sounds to me sort of like a Gun Blue process. Maybe you can try some gun blue to darken the scratched areas?

As for painting, I would most definitely prime before painting. And I would use the same mfr of paint/primer, if at all possible.

After priming, I let me shells dry a day, and then I rub them down with a fine (grey colored) ScotchBrite pad to smooth out the primer layer just a bit ... not much rubbing ... just enough to remove any micro bumps, dust hairs, etc.

Cheers,

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

big ed said:


> That is what I thought. I wonder why he worded his response like you were calling the steam chest a cow catcher?
> 
> How about a darker green for the blackened pieces? To go with the other green.
> 
> ...


Red is still a possibility, though I really like the dark green.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

tjcruiser said:


> John,
> 
> If the front (separate) casting piece was originally chemically blackened, that sounds to me sort of like a Gun Blue process. Maybe you can try some gun blue to darken the scratched areas?
> 
> ...


The gun bluing is an interesting idea, that would probably work and I wouldn't have to try to mask off parts of the steam chest/cow catcher. I think the actual cow catcher should be black.

I'll have to pick up some primer on my next run, I still have to settle on a color. 

The Scotchbrite on the Dremel is a dream come true for cleaning up the remaining stuff, works great.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

John,

I used to buy the (expensive) Dremel-brand abrasive pads. Then, someone here on the forum (you???) showed how easy it is to make abrasive Dremel-like pads using a cheap ScotchBrite sheet, a couple of washers, and a little mandrel. I love 'em ... good for nooks and crannies.

Now, if I could only find a way to make a cheaper version of the Dremel stainless steel brushes ...

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I got the initial idea for that from someone else, and it works so good that I've been through a number of 6x9 Scotchbrite sheets polishing track and other rusty things.  I ordered myself a boatload of the mandrels for my Dremel and I just load them all up and then start working. I get a "quick change" of pads having lots of them lined up, production style.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I tried the gun blue, (actually black, since I have both types), and it did a very nice job. I also smoothed some of the really rough casting marks from the steam chest before blacking it.

I also got the liquid smoke kit and put it together, that was really easy, about 5 minutes from start to finish! Connected it to a transformer, added a few drops of fluid, and pumped out some smoke, very cool. I also cleaned up the motor, sprayed the E-unit contacts, etc. The motor streaks down the track in both directions, very nice, so that's cool. I also got the headlight lens for the broken one in the locomotive.

The only remaining task is to actually paint the shell, then I can assemble it. Still thinking on a color...




Question. Is there any special technique you use to get in all the nooks and crannies of one of these? I sprayed a boxcar and it took a few coats to get all the ribs fully coated.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

John,

Not much in terms of special spraying tricks, other than several light coats 5 or 10 minutes apart from each other. I usually spray the inside of my shells one day, let that dry, flip, then paint the outside of my shells the next day.

I use bent coathangers poked through any fitting holes in the shell to support the shell during the painting ... the far end of the coatwire gets pushed into some scrap 2" pinkstuff foam to support the shell.

Hey ... what's the difference between gun blue and gun black? They're all black, right ... it's just a matter of intensity ... right???

TJ


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## Evil Caesar (Jan 28, 2011)

Using scottsbrite pads sounds like a amazing idea! Do you happen to have a link on how you accomplished that? I do spend a bit of change on the Dremel attachments to get all the rust off the PW trains I have been acquiring this year.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Evil Caesar said:


> Using scottsbrite pads sounds like a amazing idea! Do you happen to have a link on how you accomplished that?


See this thread, starting around post 37 or so ...

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=5497

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I just laid in a large supply of several types of Scotchbrite pads, I'm set for a couple of years.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, I decided on a color.  I was cruising the paint aisle in HD and checking out the paint. I actually bought the Hunter green and this color as well as some primer. However, a test spray of both and I decided this would be pretty cool.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The Midas Touch! Bravo!

Do you have the gold cars to go with it?


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Pimp my Ride!!!
That color should match your Grilles Gunrunner 
-Art


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I have more paint for the cars.  I just figured I should do something whimsical with this one. 

I have to find a tender to paint to match.


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

Gunrunner - 

That's pretty cool. I wasn't expecting antiqued gold, but it really makes the details on the casting *POP*! :thumbsup:


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

It hit me when I was looking at the paint colors available.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Makes it look like a brass loco a little.:thumbsup:


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

That was actually my intent. I have to let it dry about a week to be really cured, then I'll have to attempt a decal for the numbers.  I need a cool looking tender to paint to match, I'll have to dig through my junkbox and see what I have.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I love it! Or "her", really. She needs a name ...

"In the centre of a golden valley,
Dwellt a maiden all divine,
A pretty creature a miner's daughter
And her name was Clementine."

Very beautiful, actually ... unconventional, but wonderful!

TJ

PS -- Do you think you need to clearcoat the gold, or is it OK alone?


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

tjcruiser said:


> I love it! Or "her", really. She needs a name ...
> 
> "In the centre of a golden valley,
> Dwellt a maiden all divine,
> ...



It is not gold, it is Brass.
So for Brass you need a name like General.
And throw a couple stars on it.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I don't know if I'll attempt to clearcoat it, I was going to let it cure totally and see what it looks like then. I just put it in the back room to cure, then I'll take a closer look. My only worry is maybe it wouldn't look as good after the clearcoat! 

I like the name *General*, that has a nice ring to it. 

Next step will be to find a cast-off tender that matches this and paint it.  Then I need to come up with a mythical RR name for it.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I don't know if I'll attempt to clearcoat it, I was going to let it cure totally and see what it looks like then. I just put it in the back room to cure, then I'll take a closer look. My only worry is maybe it wouldn't look as good after the clearcoat!
> 
> I like the name *General*, that has a nice ring to it.
> 
> Next step will be to find a cast-off tender that matches this and paint it.  Then I need to come up with a mythical RR name for it.


How bout GoldenEye:









She should be numbered 007 LOL
-Art


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

A number of 007 would be a good idea, I may have to do that! 

I clearcoated a sample of the paint that I put on a test piece, I don't think I'm going to risk doing that to it, it looks pretty good right now.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I couldn't wait, I put it back together and did a track test.  Runs great, and the black is a nice contrast against the brass/gold color. Maybe that tender is the one I'll paint to match, it doesn't have a home currently.

The only issue is that it runs at such a low voltage that the smoke generator doesn't put out that much smoke. It may need a lower value resistor to generate more heat at low voltage.


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## joe7034 (Feb 3, 2011)

WOW that looks great, I was looking at the hammered copper paint, when I did my blue 1688, hmmmm might need to find another project to start!!!

Joe


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I looked at the hammered copper color, but when I saw this color, it tipped the scales in favor of gold. 

I'm still thinking about the tender, I'd like to find an inexpensive one that matches this locomotive, one of the rounded models.


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

Here's my suggestion: "Top Brass"

I like "General" and "Goldeneye" as well.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

how bout Gold digger?
Maybe add a logo like this:








-Art


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

When I was looking for paint colors at the store I came across some chrome paint.

It looked nice on the can, I wonder how it would look on the loco?


Anyone every use it? they have black chrome too. Hmmm my 2065 in black chrome, I will save the paint I have for another loco.












What do you think? Black chrome? cool?




Do your car like this, John?:thumbsup:










I don't know how you would drive into the sun with that.
A good pair of sunglasses would be a must too.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Big Ed...you can call it the "Silver Bullet"....maybe some coors light stickers on the side LOL  









I have seen that paint many times and thought I might try it on my son's old moped that has some chrome pieces that need to be re-chromed.....never tried it though. Let us know how it works.
-Art


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Gunrunner,
Put some hot rod red on there and call it "Iron Man"








-Art


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I always wanted that set in O gauge.

T mans rebuild would be a better Locomotive for the shape.:thumbsup:
How about it T man....Chrome paint & name it the Silver Bullet for yours?


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Chrome, would work alright, but I have the LASER in Chrome 6181. Looking at the engine I prefer a dull metal. Old and distinguished.

Brass is a good idea.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I think I'll stick with the current color. I need a matching tender that needs a paint job to finish the set.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

John -- that really looks great. As I said earlier ... unconvention as all get out ... but I love the look. Nice job!

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Yep, I have the green paint, but then it hit me that I haven't seen anyone here paint one gold.  

I'm not sure what style tender I should look for to complete the set, got any suggestions?


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

How about a 2426W style tender ... gold, with shiny chrome (nickel?) handrails ?

http://www.tandem-associates.com/lionel/lionel_trains_773_loco.htm


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Just picked up this one for $6.49 on eBay, it's going to get the "treatment".  I'd like one of those with the fancy railings, but they seem to be a lot more expensive. This is a "low investment" project, the locomotive was $15, and I've invested another $20 in a smoke unit and paint. Oh, and the 50 cents for the new headlight lens.


I was thinking of naming it FORT KNOX RAILROAD and using the Ft. Knox zipcode as the locomotive number.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Just picked up this one for $6.49 on eBay, it's going to get the "treatment".  I'd like one of those with the fancy railings, but they seem to be a lot more expensive. This is a "low investment" project, the locomotive was $15, and I've invested another $20 in a smoke unit and paint. Oh, and the 50 cents for the new headlight lens.
> 
> 
> I was thinking of naming it FORT KNOX RAILROAD and using the Ft. Knox zipcode as the locomotive number.


If you name it that then you have to get all the bullion cars or the mint cars too.
Last year (I don't know why)hwell: I picked up some vials containing real gold flakes/pieces. 
They look like little gold nuggets. :thumbsup:

They would look nice in a ore car on your _Gold Express._


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You can send me all the real gold you want to!


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## Fighterpilot (Mar 16, 2011)

It certainly is different. I like it.
As far as the chrome paint is concerned, I've used it to paint spinners for my airplanes and it tends to tarnish and get a little black looking in spots. I'd stay away from it on a locomotive; but, that's just my opinion. Gunrunner, you need to paint that cow catcher gold too.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I like the cowcatcher being black, I think it offers a nice contrast. I used gun black on it to "paint" it.


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Just picked up this one for $6.49 on eBay, it's going to get the "treatment".  I'd like one of those with the fancy railings, but they seem to be a lot more expensive. This is a "low investment" project, the locomotive was $15, and I've invested another $20 in a smoke unit and paint.  Oh, and the 50 cents for the new headlight lens.
> 
> 
> I was thinking of naming it FORT KNOX RAILROAD and using the Ft. Knox zipcode as the locomotive number.


The Zip Code for Fort Knox, KY is 40121 and the telephone Area Code is 502. I don't know which one would work better as a road number. 

- Paul in AZ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, the area code is the whole area, that's why I figured on using the zipcode.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

John, You can use diodes to drop the voltage to the motor so the smoker works better.

BB


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You know, I didn't think of that, but that's a very good idea!  I'll have to stick a few in there and see if that helps. Just have to find a place to hide them.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

A little progress.  And, also a name change. My wife came up with *Fort Knox Express*, I think I like that better than Fort Knox Railroad.  The hardest part of painting the tender was sanding out the Lionel Lines that was stamped into the plastic, they couldn't have just painted it on to make my job easier! 

I may need a slightly longer hook or tender coupler, they're pretty close together. They don't hit, but it's a tight fit. Maybe that's how they would have been in the real world.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Looks great John.:thumbsup:

They had to get the coal in the firebox somehow. Being that close makes it easier.

Yours doesn't look any closer then this.











Now your onto the gold cars?:thumbsup:


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'm thinking of some ore cars with gold painted pebbles in them.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I'm thinking of some ore cars with gold painted pebbles in them.


These are not what I got mine are more like cat litter, little nuggets.

Get the ore car, make a false top and glue some 24k flake on it.

Cheap enough?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ONE-GOLD-VIAL-24-K-LEAF-FLAKE-REFINERY-729-/270767612013?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f0b01e06d


Edit, 5 vials $4.95 free shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/5-VIALS-GOLD-FL...246?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4836b85c5e


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Even cheaper to paint rocks, I already have the gold paint.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Even cheaper to paint rocks, I already have the gold paint.



But it won't glitter and shine like the real stuff. 
A buck a vial is a good price with free shipping to boot.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

How do you get a buck from that link?


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

The second link I edited in a few minutes later,

http://cgi.ebay.com/5-VIALS-GOLD-FLAKES-Lowest-Prices-eBay-/310155697246?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4836b85c5e&clk_rvr_id=245652459829



less then a buck a vial.

5 vials $4.95


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

John,

The loco / tender combo looks great. Nice touch on leaving the coal black with the tender gold. Sounds like you're going to letter the sides of the tender?

I sanded out the stamped lettering on a Scout loco some months back ... retagged it as a different loco. It took some patience to sand out the letters and leave a smooth side, as you indicate above. Worth it though, I think.

Nice work!

TJ


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Gunrunner,
Try this font for your Fort Knox Express:
http://famousfonts.smackbomb.com/fonts/onedollar.php
It's a copy of the font used for "federal reserve note" on the dollar bill.
Here is what it would look like:








Or this:








That's what I would do If it were my project.

Or 007 Golden Eye font:
http://www.dafont.com/007-goldeneye.font
Looks like this:








-Art


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The Federal Reserve font looks good.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

big ed said:


> The second link I edited in a few minutes later,
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/5-VIALS-GOLD-FLAKES-Lowest-Prices-eBay-/310155697246?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4836b85c5e&clk_rvr_id=245652459829
> 
> ...


I ordered some of that, must be something I can use it for.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

tjcruiser said:


> John,
> 
> The loco / tender combo looks great. Nice touch on leaving the coal black with the tender gold. Sounds like you're going to letter the sides of the tender?
> 
> ...


You can still see some evidence of the sanding if you look closer at it, I'm hoping that the decal will mask most of that. I didn't want to sand the fake rivets off above and below. I figured the coal should be black, who's going to burn gold to run their trains? 

I have to find the stuff that makes the decals lay flat, trying to remember what it's called...


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

How bout this Gunrunner,








Not sure if I like the dollar sign on the engine maybe just road numbers in the "legal tender" font.
-Art


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Hmm... I think I'll stick with a single color font.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Gunrunner,
I stumbled on this and thought of your Fort Knox Express :thumbsup::thumbsup::
-Art


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

That's funny, I actually bid on several of these, but they went for more than I wanted to pay.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Gunrunner,
You'll find them eventually, I am still looking for a Lionel Picatinny Arsenal switcher but the ones on ebay are too much $$. I grew up a few miles from the arsenal.
-Art


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I have the TMCC version of that switcher.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I have the TMCC version of that switcher.


I am not familiar with TMCC. What does that mean?
-Art


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

TMCC is command/control. 

All you ever wanted to know: The Benefits of Lionel TrainMaster Command Control (TMCC)


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Gunrunner,
New paint scheme to go with your theme trains LOL
-Art


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I have to find the stuff that makes the decals lay flat, trying to remember what it's called...


Solvaset


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Right, got it.


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## AG216 (Sep 28, 2011)

I use it from walthers. Work awesome even over wood!
Andre.


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## stevetil (Sep 6, 2011)

Along these same line, I just bought a 665 Hudson which has already been nicely
repainted, Black. But I want to repaint it dark blue to pull my MTH Blue Comet
string of passenger cars. Yeah I know, the real thing was a Pacific, not a Hudson,
but ti looks pretty good to me, except I want it Blue. Think I should strip it first
or just paint over the newish paint?

All my tenders are Lionel Lines except for one 736W which came with my 736
Berkshire and it is Pennsylvania. I used to ride a lot of Pennsy trains, but I just
want all of my tenders to be Lionel Lines. I have a 2036W Lionel Lines tender in
really good shape which I have mated to the Berkshire, and now I want to repaint
the 736W blue to match the Blue Comet engine, and then apply a Lionel Lines decal.
I think this tender may be plastic, it looks good, can I just paint right over?

Thanks, Steve.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Personally, I'd strip it if it's been repainted. Hard to know what's under there or what reaction the new paint will have. As far as the plastic tender, make sure any outline of the old lettering is totally sanded away and smooth, or it'll show through the new paint job.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Personally, I'd strip it if it's been repainted. Hard to know what's under there or what reaction the new paint will have. As far as the plastic tender, make sure any outline of the old lettering is totally sanded away and smooth, or it'll show through the new paint job.



Is yours just sitting there without the letters yet, like my 2065 re-paint.

Will you take some old cars and paint them up for the Gold Nugget Express train?
A flat with bars (real) gold on pallets?
A tanker, an old one with liquid gold?
Need some box cars filled with gold?
A gold with silver trim (real silver) caboose?
An gold ore car?
Gold Gondolas?
Set up the coal loader Hammered has and call it a gold loader, and use gold (real), you will need enough to fill the gold dumping car, and a nice pile around the grounds.

Add on a custom painted old, gold passenger set with gold people riding inside?:thumbsup:
That will keep you busy with your spare time.

I saw a over head bracket setup for O in a magazine from the 90's.
It was for installing two lines around the ceiling, everything you need to set it up.
Hows yours coming along?

I am debating whether to paint the tin red Passenger cars I have, with a Blue and orange paint job. 
Maybe add CNJ decals to the 2065 and the whole Blue & Orange Express.:thumbsup:

TJ mine have the journal slots.:thumbsup:

I wonder if anyone ever sells used ones?
I could just paint them up. I will have to search junk lots on fee bay.
I have not bought a junk lot in a while.
I like the ones you just see a pile of junk in the picture.
When the package arrives, it is like opening up a Christmas present when you were a kid.
Do you remember feeling John?:laugh:
Surprise, you never know what you get. Some of the "junk" you get are like finding a piece of gold.

My parts boxes are filled with stuff I don't even know what it is.:thumbsup:
But I have it in case I need it.
I have some journals, but not enough.hwell:

I must paint up a caboose too, for the Blue and Orange Express.

I don't like the way the tender came out too, I might do up another tender one with a whistle.:thumbsup:


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I haven't gotten the decal paper to make the decals, I ordered some and discovered I mistakenly got white background, useless for this task. 

I need to find a good source for the decal paper to finish the locomotive and tender. 

After that I may try to come up with some cars. I was looking for one of those mint cars with the window at a good price, that would be ideal for the train.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

big ed said:


> I am debating whether to paint the tin red Passenger cars I have, with a Blue and orange paint job.
> Maybe add CNJ decals to the 2065 and the whole Blue & Orange Express.:thumbsup:
> 
> TJ mine have the journal slots.:thumbsup:
> ...




Ed,

Thanks for confirmation on your truck slots. I was wondering about that.

You said, "Sell used ones" ... journals or the full passenger cars? Jeff Kane sells repro journal boxes ... either copper or nickle (and brass, maybe). I saw two very recent ebay auctions of that exact red passenger car set. One just sold for $151 ... three cars, no loco! Another set active at $20.

TJ


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