# Proper lubrication for a Lionel Berkshire 736 Motor



## koalb (Dec 23, 2014)

Hi,

Inherited a Lionel 736 Berkshire from my Dad. Breaking it down to go through everything before I try to run it. Overall, it's in very good condition, just hasn't been run in a long while, probably 15 years ago.

Removed the brush plate and got the commutator plate nice and shiny again using 1000 grit sandpaper. Overall, the motor looks pretty clean and turns freely. Ordered a new pair of brushes that I'll put in once I get them.

So my question is, what else should I do before putting it all back together. A lot of people talk about applying Lucas Red and Tacky #2 to the bushings, but I don't think that's possible without fully removing the motor from the chassis. From what I can tell, the armature doesn't separate from the motor without fully disassembling it.

Also read about pouring mineral spirits down into the motor and then turning the motor upside down to dry out.

Is it worth taking these extra steps, or could i just reassemble it and apply some Labelle 107 to the oil reservoir and call it a day?

Thanks, and Merry Christmas.


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

If it looks clean overall, the only other thing I would check is the well where the worm gear meshes with the motor, and see how the grease looks. Could possibly need cleaning out and relubing. If it is ok, button it back up and run it.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

I lube all of my stuff with motor oil, 5W-20. A few days ago I pulled a 736 out of the closet and am running it. I can backdrive the motor my turning the wheels, so the worm gear has adequate lube. I just oiled the commutator with motor oil, and the motor friction is substantially reduced. I have been oiling the commutators on my locos for about 7 years with no problems. Don't use lithium grease, 3 in 1 oil, Lionel Lube, light machine oil, sewing machine oil, WD-40, as these will all get gummy or harden. 

I have a 2025 that was lubed with motor oil back in '65. I put it into the closet and took it out about 5 years ago. It did not need to be lubed. It ran just fine. This is what convinced me to use motor oil. It never dries out or gets gummy.


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## koalb (Dec 23, 2014)

Servoguy, do you use 5-20 for all the parts, including worm gear and inside the reservoir?


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

On worm gears and the mating spur I use Lucas red-n-tacky, motor oil does not have the needed cling to stay put and will drip off. Everything else gets 5w-20/30 use what you have on hand, don't buy something just for your trains. When you grease the worm and spur, go light you don't need to put a huge blob inside like Lionel did. I usually take a Q-tip and coat the spur gear, no need for more.

That is one area Bruce and I disagree on 

Carl


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

The 736 I spoke of has motor oil on the worm and spur. It has been on there for about 15 years and has not dripped off. I have 40 years of experience with motor oil, and no experience with red N Tacky. I believe Red N Tacky may be OK, but I have no evidence to support this opinion.


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## namvet67 (Dec 7, 2013)

I gota go with Kwister also. I use red n tacky on all worm and spur gears. Oil doesnt cling well and it makes a hell of a mess inside grear boxes. Red and tacky stays put, doesnt get hard. I tore down a u-joint in a peterbilt truck that was in the bone yard for almost 10 years. All the grease cups still had enough red n tacky in them to still turn. It doesnt get gummy or hard. It doent take much tho. Use sparingly. I use hoppes gun oil on everything else. This has been a hot issue on here for awhle. It boils down yo whatever works for you go with it. JMHO


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## koalb (Dec 23, 2014)

OK, so used the Lucas Red and Tacky and 5-20. Everything works great.

Serious question - now that I've polished up the face of motor and added new brushes, this thing goes fast - really fast. Just a little juice from my RW and it's hauling down the track.

Is that normal?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Yep, that means it's running properly again.


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