# Framework plan for a portable layout



## Single Driver Steam (Apr 22, 2016)

Hi all,

I’m getting started with my layout and would like advice on reinforcing my baseboard. My layout will be 3 x 6’ resting atop a 2 x 5’ folding table (I want my layout to be portable as we reside in a NY apartment and will likely move in the near future). Currently I have a 1/2” thick plywood sheet that serves as the baseboard, and plan to anchor a 1 inch thick foam sheet on top of that for scenery, track, and structures (six to 12 inches of foam will be filed off at one end for a terrain drop-off to a water scene, the water scenery will be added directly onto the baseboard). 

That all said, can anyone recommend a suitable means to reinforce the underside of the baseboard while remaining somewhat lightweight? My concern is that the layout midsection will warp and bend when the layout is lifted and moved. I also do not want the train table to be permanently fixed to the folding table. A view of the current appearance gives some insight into what I'm looking to achieve.

As always thoughts and opinions are greatly appreciated.


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## timlange3 (Jan 16, 2013)

I suggest a either 1" x 3" (or 1" x 4") framework underneath. Around the perimeter and across the 3' every 16". Fasten with drywall screws every 6" and glue the frame to the plywood. That would make it quite rigid and give you space for wires underneath. If you need a smooth underside then put a 1/8" layer of Masonite (hardboard) and just screw it to the framework. This would make it even more rigid.

Instead of using pine 1x3 or 1x4 boards I would rip 3/4" plywood to desired lengths and widths, as it will not warp over time and you make 'boards' of any size, even tapers.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Warp protection*



Single Driver Steam said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I’m getting started with my layout and would like advice on reinforcing my baseboard. My layout will be 3 x 6’ resting atop a 2 x 5’ folding table (I want my layout to be portable as we reside in a NY apartment and will likely move in the near future). Currently I have a 1/2” thick plywood sheet that serves as the baseboard, and plan to anchor a 1 inch thick foam sheet on top of that for scenery, track, and structures (six to 12 inches of foam will be filed off at one end for a terrain drop-off to a water scene, the water scenery will be added directly onto the baseboard).
> 
> ...


Single Driver Steam;

I agree with the prior response about using a 1x 3 frame. though a cross piece every sixteen inches may not be essential, you could get by with wider spacing. I don't agree about plywood not warping. It can, and does, warp. Plywood does have an advantage though. The plys that make up a sheet of plywood have their grain running in different directions and this gives it strength and does resist warping a little. There are other ways to fight warping and you may decide to pick one based, at least partly, on how lightweight, rigid, and warp resistant, you want your layout to be. Well, we all want our layouts not to warp at all so that leaves rigidity, and weight. 
One way to have super rigid, non-warping construction is to use an L-girder framework. An L-girder is made of two boards, say a 1x3 and a 1x2 screwed and glued to each other to form an 'L' shape when viewed from either end. It is basically a wood version of a piece of "angle iron." Next time you're at the local Home depot try this experiment. The stores have a rack full of metal shapes for sale. Start with a flat rectangular bar. Try bending it just a little. (you don't want to ruin it.) It should bend fairly easily. Next, try the same thing with a piece of metal angle stock. To be fair, pick one with metal the same thickness as the bar. The angle will not bend. It would take a lot more force than most human beings could muster to bend the angle. The two sides of the angle reinforce each other so well that you can't bend it a bit. The L-girder works the same way. Warping is a form of bending, and the L-girder won't do it. If you make your frame of L-girders instead of flat planks, the pieces that make up the frame will resist warping, and are so strong that you won't need as many crosspieces as with a normal plank type frame. Painting all the wood with latex house paint helps seal out moisture, which also helps prevent warping.

Another possibility, and a much lighter one, is to use thick extruded foam as your layout base. Two inch thick foam won't bend, even without the plywood sheet attached. It's very rigid, very light, and waterproof too. That waterproof bit means it's not susceptible to moisture, which means no warping. 

Another very lightweight, very strong, and very warp resistant, item is a box girder. I built part of my layout this way. The box is made up of four strips of 1/4" thick Luan plywood, glued around a styrofoam core. (See photo) That box girder 2x2 in the middle, is as strong as the conventional, solid pine, 2x2 on the left, but only a fraction of the weight.

Since your layout is small, you could substitute a hollow core door for the plywood. It's internal construction is somewhat similar to the box girder. I would not cut it to make your lower water scene though. That would weaken the door too much. Maybe you could just cut away the foam, and use the top surface of the door as the water.

So pick your favorite. Any of the methods suggested will work.

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## Nikola (Jun 11, 2012)

For a 3x6 layout, get a hollow core door. Stiff, light, flat, self-supporting, inexpensive.

The door will measure 3 by 6' 6" and if the extra length is an issue, the nice man at HD or Lowes will hack off 3" off each end.


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## Chaostrain (Jan 27, 2015)

You could use a plastic folding table. It even comes with legs so you don't have to find something to set it on.


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## Single Driver Steam (Apr 22, 2016)

While I was really hoping to not waste my current plywood board, it looks like the hollow core door may be a better option for me as I have zero interest in woodwork (yes I know that someday in the future I may want to acquire these skills for potential future layouts, but I’m happy to cross that bridge when and if I get there). Also I was concerned that the estimated weight of a hollow core door (about 25lbs) would be greater than my current plywood with reinforced bracing, but when I started making calculations to include the additional woodwork, the door seems to weigh less. Couple on the convenience and it’s looking like a very strong option!

While I’m still weighing the pros and cons, if I trim 6” off the hollow core door, would that compromise the structure? Space is of the essence and I can’t afford anything longer than 6ft.


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## timlange3 (Jan 16, 2013)

You would have to trim off both ends, but even 3" off may get you past the framework. You can always glue up something that will fit the opening though. Ask the lumber yard, they should know how much you can trim off.

Do you plan to run your wires on top of the door? Or bottom? Or inside?


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## Nikola (Jun 11, 2012)

Single Driver Steam said:


> While I was really hoping to not waste my current plywood board, it looks like the hollow core door may be a better option for me as I have zero interest in woodwork (yes I know that someday in the future I may want to acquire these skills for potential future layouts, but I’m happy to cross that bridge when and if I get there). Also I was concerned that the estimated weight of a hollow core door (about 25lbs) would be greater than my current plywood with reinforced bracing, but when I started making calculations to include the additional woodwork, the door seems to weigh less. Couple on the convenience and it’s looking like a very strong option!
> 
> While I’m still weighing the pros and cons, if I trim 6” off the hollow core door, would that compromise the structure? Space is of the essence and I can’t afford anything longer than 6ft.


No, it will not. There is solid material at all the edges to permit trimming to fit, locksets, mounting hinges and the like but that is all for the door used as a door. As a train layout you don't need it. The panels are permanently adhered to a cardboard lattice inside that provides a true monocoque. You could trim 6 " off one end o thee off each. Cutting both ends will just about give you a finished edge, which looks nicer as opposed to the open lattice you would see if the finishes are gone.

My son has a small layout with door trimmed down to bout 5 feet and it has been fine for many many years. The layout gets manhandled, such as being stashed in the attic with extreme temperature and humidity swings. The 'open' door remains perfectly dimensionally stable and structurally true as a pool table.

No one ever wants to replace a door. These things are built well and it shows.


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## Nikola (Jun 11, 2012)

timlange3 said:


> You would have to trim off both ends, but even 3" off may get you past the framework. You can always glue up something that will fit the opening though. Ask the lumber yard, they should know how much you can trim off.
> 
> Do you plan to run your wires on top of the door? Or bottom? Or inside?


See my response: it is not an issue.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Cutting a hollow core door*



Single Driver Steam said:


> While I was really hoping to not waste my current plywood board, it looks like the hollow core door may be a better option for me as I have zero interest in woodwork (yes I know that someday in the future I may want to acquire these skills for potential future layouts, but I’m happy to cross that bridge when and if I get there). Also I was concerned that the estimated weight of a hollow core door (about 25lbs) would be greater than my current plywood with reinforced bracing, but when I started making calculations to include the additional woodwork, the door seems to weigh less. Couple on the convenience and it’s looking like a very strong option!
> 
> While I’m still weighing the pros and cons, if I trim 6” off the hollow core door, would that compromise the structure? Space is of the essence and I can’t afford anything longer than 6ft.



Single Driver Steam;

I disagree with some other replies regarding cutting a hollow core door.

Yes, cutting a length off such a door will weaken it. However, that doesn't mean you can't do it. The inside of a typical hollow core door is comprised mostly of air and some form of light weight filler material, often curls of cardboard. The frame around the edges is typically 2x2 lumber, so a cut, or two cuts, (one at each end), will remove the frame from one, or both, ends. The door will then be weak all along the middle of it's length.
To do the cut, without leaving the door weak, you would just need to glue a piece of 2x2-, (possibly the original end piece, but that would entail removing the door surface material from the 2x2 piece. Woodworking!  ) -back into the shortened door. Obviously there would be little point in cutting some off both ends, and then re-attaching both end frame pieces.

I recommend buying a door with a Luan plywood surface, instead of the cheaper Masonite type. The Luan is both stronger, and lighter, than the Masonite.
While at the Home Depot I recommend you also buy a decent (select grade?) 2x2 along with the door. Have the store guy cut a length, (or two, in case of oops!) of 2x2 the same length as the width of the door. He can probably cut the door for you too, and sell you a small bottle of yellow carpenter's wood glue, and a few clamps. The spring-loaded, "big clothespin-shaped ones" will work, and they're cheaper than C-clamps. Cheaper still would be skipping clamps and instead using drywall screws to hold everything together while the glue dries overnight; but that would require a drill with a screwdriver bit, and more construction than you may want to deal with. So that should minimize your woodworking woes. 

regards;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## Nikola (Jun 11, 2012)

traction fan said:


> Single Driver Steam;
> 
> I disagree with some other replies regarding cutting a hollow core door. Yes, cutting 6" of length off such a door will weaken it. However, that doesn't mean you can't do it. The inside of a typical hollow core door is comprised mostly of air and some form of light weight filler material, often curls of cardboard. The frame around the edges is typically 2x2 lumber, so a 6" cut, or two 3" cuts, one at each end, will remove the frame from one, or both, ends. The door will then be weak all along the middle of it's length.
> To do the cut, without leaving the door weak, you would just need to glue a piece of 2x2, possibly the original end piece, into the shortened door. Obviously there would be little point in cutting 3" off both ends, and then re attaching both end frame pieces. I recommend buying a door with a Luan plywood surface instead of the cheaper Masonite type. The Luan is stronger, and lighter. While at the Home Depot I recommend you also buy a decent (select grade?) 2x2 along with the door. Have the store guy cut a length, (or two, in case of oops) of 2x2 the same length as the width of the door. He can probably cut the door for you too, and sell you a small bottle of yellow carpenter's wood glue and a few clamps. The spring-loaded, "big clothespin-shaped ones" will work, and they're cheaper than C-clamps. Cheaper still would be drywall screws to hold everything together while the glue dries overnight; but that would require a drill with a screwdriver bit, and more construction than you may want to deal with. So that should minimize your woodworking woes.
> ...


I believe you are misinformed. The inside is a lattice of heavy-duty cardboard in a tight, X cell configuration. You can cut all four edges off and the door is as stiff as from the factory. The solid blocking aqround the edges is to provide a finished edge even after trimming and support for locks and hinges - none of which matters for a train table.


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

For something relatively small, light and portable, I'd suggest:

- 1x3 framing. Put crossmemebers every 18" or so. Use screws to assemble it (not nails).

- 1/4" (yes) BIRCH plywood on top. Birch is more stable than run-of-the-mill "regular" plywood. This should reduce chances of warping, etc. Again, use flathead screws to fasten it down. Drill pilot holes to make it "clean".

A 3x6' table constructed this way should be light enough to move around, and strong enough to remain stable "where you place it".

As to "where to place it", how about a folding table from an office supply store?
They're strong enough, and again -- easily portable.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Not always true*



Nikola said:


> I believe you are misinformed. The inside is a lattice of heavy-duty cardboard in a tight, X cell configuration. You can cut all four edges off and the door is as stiff as from the factory. The solid blocking aqround the edges is to provide a finished edge even after trimming and support for locks and hinges - none of which matters for a train table.


Nikola;

My information comes from cutting two hollow-core doors. They didn't "misinform" me, that's how they were actually constructed. Now other doors may well, in fact, probably do, have other fillers, but the "solid blocking" was not continued very far into either of the doors I cut. If the door was constructed as you described, then it might stay rigid as you say your son's door layout does. That does not mean that every hollow-core door ever built is/was made the same way.

I stand by the information I gave the OP in my response.

He says he can't exceed 6' in length. The standard door height is 6'-8" so he's going to have to cut it's length down at least 8". 
If he does cut 8" off one end, or 4" off both ends, and is still cutting "solid blocking", or some "tight X frame" that will stay rigid, instead of air, and weak cardboard, that's great. However, if he cuts beyond the solid blocking, of the type of door I cut, then doing that will weaken the door, and the simple procedure I offered him, involving inserting a new piece of 2x2 and gluing it in place, will strengthen the door. 

Either way, he should still be able to cut the door. What, if anything, else will need to be done, will depend on what he finds inside.

Traction Fan


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## Single Driver Steam (Apr 22, 2016)

Still trying to weigh out the pros and cons of the hollow core door vs custom built under frame for my current 1/2" thick plywood. I still have not determined how exactly I will run the wires, however I do know it will be a very easy setup as my layout is a simple oval with a few turnouts. I will have a single feeder running from a section of track to my Railpower 1300 transformer. I'm thinking of maybe dedicating one tiny corner of my 3x6 tabletop surface for my transformer, then poke a hole through the plywood to run the AC power cable through which would run to the socket near by. 









Regarding support, I already have a 2x5 folding table in place. I would simply put my train table on top of that. If I do decide to build framework, would I need a flat undersurface for the train table to sit properly on the folding table? I know there would be narrow 1x3" cross sections that would be spaced out every 18" or so which would make narrow contact with the surface of the folding table. Would this become a problem further on? Should I nail on a very thin Masonite surface at the bottom?


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

When trimming an interior hollow core door for a low entrance to a basement room, I had to strip the door Luan from the bottom support and reinstall it into the cut I made.

The three inches I took off the bottom of the door cut away the lower frame support.

Not all hollow core doors are created equal.


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## Nikola (Jun 11, 2012)

traction fan said:


> Nikola;
> 
> My information comes from cutting two hollow-core doors. They didn't "misinform" me, that's how they were actually constructed. Now other doors may well, in fact, probably do, have other fillers, but the "solid blocking" was not continued very far into either of the doors I cut. If the door was constructed as you described, then it might stay rigid as you say your son's door layout does. That does not mean that every hollow-core door ever built is/was made the same way.
> 
> ...



Perhaps there are different doors. As I have already stated, my son and I have cut hollow core doors basically in half. Inside is a diagonal heavy cardboard matrix, with diamond shaped cells, solidly bonded. You can stand on them and they will not deflect. The solid edging only is there for a finished edge at top and bottom and to fasten hinges and locksets along the sides. OP, the doors we used were from a normal lumber yard or Home Depot. The door is a continuously braced box beam and that is where the strength comes from. THe blocking is irrelevant for a layout except for providing a finished edge or 'meat' if you are attaching several doors together. We have made temporary Christmas layouts with as many as 6 hollow core doors. We splice them together with little rectangles of scrap 1/4" plywood at the edges. Easy to set up. 

Off season, we use deck screws to fasten the doors to the ceiling of the garage, in between the wasted space over the open garage door. They are set upside down so the track can remain in place.

A nice thing is that the thin plywood, which appears like Luan, takes track nails very well. Just press them in with needle nose pliers. The nails are easily pulled out if the track plan changes with no harm.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Strong, rigid, wiring friendly, very lightweight no woodworking*



Single Driver Steam said:


> Still trying to weigh out the pros and cons of the hollow core door vs custom built under frame for my current 1/2" thick plywood. I still have not determined how exactly I will run the wires, however I do know it will be a very easy setup as my layout is a simple oval with a few turnouts. I will have a single feeder running from a section of track to my Railpower 1300 transformer. I'm thinking of maybe dedicating one tiny corner of my 3x6 tabletop surface for my transformer, then poke a hole through the plywood to run the AC power cable through which would run to the socket near by.
> View attachment 484766
> 
> 
> ...



Single Driver Steam;

I don't know why this wasn't brought up before, but I think it might work well for you. Instead of gluing a 1" thick piece of foam on top of your plywood, try this alternative.

Forget the 1" foam, and the plywood, and all the 1x3 framing, and your concern about woodworking. There is a much simpler way.
Just buy one (1-1/2" - 2" thick) sheet of extruded foam insulation board. This is the hard pink, blue, or green, kind sold at Home Depot or Lowes. Don't use the white styrofoam "bead board" you may see at the same stores. It is not strong enough for this application.

The extruded foam board is strong and rigid enough that no plywood, or 1x3 framework, is even needed. It has flat, and continuous, surfaces, both top and bottom, so it can be laid directly on top of that table you already have.
The top can be cut and formed into whatever scenery you like. You can easily cut out that water scene you want for example.
Any cut off sections of foam can be stacked and glued into hills, tunnels, etc. Wiring can be laid in a small trench cut into the top, or bottom, surface.
The trench can be covered with duct tape, or blue painter's tape. (Pay a little extra for the high quality 3M brand tape. This tape will need to hold up to the water used in gluing ballast, dirt, grass, and other scenery materials, to the layout; and also stand up to the test of time. The cheap stuff won't handle any of that.)

The foam board (and the tape) can then be painted with "dirt brown" latex house paint. Let the paint dry overnight. Next use a house painting type brush to coat a portion of the surface with full strength white (Elmer's type) glue. Then quickly sprinkle on whatever dirt, and grass, material you like; and fasten it down with dilute white glue. Let the dilute glue dry overnight. The next morning add another application of dilute white glue. The object is to get everything glued down so firmly that it wont come off when the layout is turned up on it's side, or even upside down. 
You will be able to pick up, and carry, the entire foam-based layout very easily since it is very light, and rigid enough not to bend. You could glue the plywood onto the bottom, but you really won't need it for strength and it would only make the layout a bit heavier. 

It's worth considering;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

I like traction fans idea for what you want to do.
One other thing might be a good idea is to glue some 
light weight wood to the sides of the foam to protect it when moving.
Either that or maybe put on a double layer of plaster cloth on the edges.

One other thing you might consider is having a couple of handles on on edge.
Will make it easier to move by yourself.

Magic


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## timlange3 (Jan 16, 2013)

Yes, I too like the one piece of 2" foam idea. I too would suggest gluing some wood or Masonite around the sides to protect it. It would be very light, but no place to hide wiring.

If you do the cross pieces under your plywood I suggest screwing Masonite to the bottom, not nailing. So you can remove it to do wiring.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Wiring on foam is not difficult. I use a tie wrap to bundle the wires, then tape the tail of the tie wrap to the underside of the foam with duct tape, works great.


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## Nikola (Jun 11, 2012)

Many good ideas and different viewpoints here. good conversation. I like the idea of the 2" foam board; however, let me offer an observation.

For those who live in homes, the foam board layout would likely see little if any handling. The fear is if significant handling could eventually crack it.

I am very familiar with life in tiny NYC apartments. Just to get in or out means navigating tiny elevators and torturous stairwells. The apartments have no buffer space, so there could be ongoing requirements to move the layout, maneuver around other furniture, stand on end, get stuffed in a corner somewhere, and so on because of a dinner party, maintenance in the apartment, and so on.

Respectfully suggest a science experiment for OP, assuming this is in the budget. Get a door from HD, have them cut it to length, and try it out. If it is not suitable (personally I believe this risk to be unlikely but others disagree), you are out maybe $20.


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## Stan D (Feb 1, 2019)

All this door talk is all well and good, but I just did a quick search in Lowe's and Home Depot, and there isn't a single door that is flat. Everything they offer is sculpted to look like a fine hand made door. I went in looking at pricing, to see if Nikola was right about his $20 claim. So, I'm not sure where you'd find a flat door, suitible for a layout. Maybe at a Habitat For Humanity Restore.


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## Nikola (Jun 11, 2012)

Stan D said:


> All this door talk is all well and good, but I just did a quick search in Lowe's and Home Depot, and there isn't a single door that is flat. Everything they offer is sculpted to look like a fine hand made door. I went in looking at pricing, to see if Nikola was right about his $20 claim. So, I'm not sure where you'd find a flat door, suitible for a layout. Maybe at a Habitat For Humanity Restore.


That is interesting. A raised panel door would certainly not be useful. HD and lumber yards should stock plain luan hollow core doors, and the prices are very low. Also, if overall height / length is an issue, they are sold in shorter lengths for sliding / hanging closet doors.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*It could well work either way*



Nikola said:


> Many good ideas and different viewpoints here. good conversation. I like the idea of the 2" foam board; however, let me offer an observation.
> 
> For those who live in homes, the foam board layout would likely see little if any handling. The fear is if significant handling could eventually crack it.
> 
> ...



Nikola;

Good suggestion. Even if the door he buys turns out to be the "less robust variety" I encountered, he could still restore it to close to it's original stiffness by gluing in the 2x2 at the spot of the cut. On the other hand, if the door is as well constructed as the ones you used for your son's layout, even the 2x2 trick would be unnecessary. Either way he would not loose the price of the door. If the OP decides on using a door, then I second your sensible "science experiment" proposal.

I don't have your experience of living in a New York City apartment. So I'm assuming it poses the possible cracking hazards you mentioned.
Here's another idea.
He could glue his sheet of plywood to the bottom of the extruded foam sheet. Yes, that would add some weight, but it would also prevent cracking, since the combination of the 2" foam's own considerable stiffness, plus the strength of the plywood would be formidably strong. Liquid Nails FOR PROJECTS, (not regular Liquid Nails, which can harm foam.)  would do the job.

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Flat doors*



Nikola said:


> That is interesting. A raised panel door would certainly not be useful. HD and lumber yards should stock plain luan hollow core doors, and the prices are very low. Also, if overall height / length is an issue, they are sold in shorter lengths for sliding / hanging closet doors.


 Perhaps the stores were using their display space for the more profitable fancy doors, but could order a flat one? 

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Excellent suggestions!*



Magic said:


> I like traction fans idea for what you want to do.
> One other thing might be a good idea is to glue some
> light weight wood to the sides of the foam to protect it when moving.
> Either that or maybe put on a double layer of plaster cloth on the edges.
> ...



Magic & Single Driver Steam;

The suggestions from Magic, about wood sides and handles are both excellent. The light wooden side panels he suggests could be made of Luan plywood, Masonite, or MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) If you elect to glue your plywood sheet to the bottom of the foam, then the wood sides should be glued to the edges of the plywood as well as to the sides of the foam itself. This will form an L-girder type structure which can not bend. That will prevent the possible cracking from handling that Nikola has warned about.

I'm not crazy about the plaster-impregnated cloth idea though. I think it would easily crack, and spill plaster bits, at each encounter with a door frame, or other obstacle.

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## Nikola (Jun 11, 2012)

traction fan said:


> Nikola;
> 
> Good suggestion. Even if the door he buys turns out to be the "less robust variety" I encountered, he could still restore it to close to it's original stiffness by gluing in the 2x2 at the spot of the cut. On the other hand, if the door is as well constructed as the ones you used for your son's layout, even the 2x2 trick would be unnecessary. Either way he would not loose the price of the door. If the OP decides on using a door, then I second your sensible "science experiment" proposal.
> 
> ...


We are on a good track here. One could even just trim the end 1 1/2", then cut to length, and use the cut piece as the filler. Peel the veneer from the cut-off piece and slide the solid core inside for a perfect fit.


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## Single Driver Steam (Apr 22, 2016)

Hi all,

Thanks so much for the input. In the end I decided to jump in the deep end and give woodwork a try! Ended up buying some fine 1x3 Birch boards for the under frame and I screwed in all the connections. The result, a train table I'm now rather proud of.


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## Nikola (Jun 11, 2012)

Looks neat and clean - Nice job!


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## timlange3 (Jan 16, 2013)

As a thought, checkout the legs on your table, see if you can transfer the legs to your railroad.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Before you install any track be sure to bore several holes
in all those cross members. You will have track bus
wires and wires for turnouts as well as building lighting
that will go thru them.

Don


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## Single Driver Steam (Apr 22, 2016)

timlange3 said:


> As a thought, checkout the legs on your table, see if you can transfer the legs to your railroad.


I thought about this, but I really like having the train table be a totally separate piece that can be set down anywhere. I'm quite happy about its current form! 



DonR said:


> Before you install any track be sure to bore several holes
> in all those cross members. You will have track bus
> wires and wires for turnouts as well as building lighting
> that will go thru them.
> ...


While I appreciate the advice, I must disagree. This layout is a simple oval which should only require one feeder directly from the transformer. I intend to manually throw the 2 or 3 switches on the layout as everything is within arm's reach (not focused on operations here). Also, I have no intention of electrically lighting any buildings on the layout. If I decide later on to add these for night scenes, I can add battery lights which are easily swapped out. I intend to make all of my structures removable for maximum convenience and portability, using this video as a guide: 




I may be entry level, but I've done my due research and consideration (anyone who's been following my F&B layout thread knows I've been sitting on this idea for a few years)!


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## timlange3 (Jan 16, 2013)

Just throwing this out. Maybe consider a shell/cover made of 1/8"-1/4" plywood that can be used to make it a box and protect it. When not covered it gets turned over and placed on the bottom.


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