# American Flyer #283 need new transformer??



## Robdog289

I have an American Flyer #283. I have a pretty big oval that it is running on. It seems to run pretty well with no other cars attached. When i put on all the cars it seems to slow down alot and stop frequently, it has to be wide open for it to go at all. I have cleaned all the tracks and contact wheels. The transformer does get fairly warm. It is the original, so it is quite old. I think I need a more powerful transformer?? Anyones advice is appreciated.

If someone can point me in the right direction for getting a more up to date transformer compatible with my set i would greatly appreciate it. Make\model etc.

Thanks


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## Strummer

You don't say what transformer you do have, but I purchased the Model Rectifier Corperation "TrainPower O27" and have been very happy with it. I went this route because it actually starts at 0 volts, not the usual 7 or so, giving it some real lower-speed control. My engines don't leap into action, but can actually start slowly, and there seems to be plenty of "head end" juice if more power is needed. I see Trainz has one currently listed at $40....

Mark in Oregon


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## Robdog289

Strummer said:


> You don't say what transformer you do have, but I purchased the Model Rectifier Corperation "TrainPower O27" and have been very happy with it. I went this route because it actually starts at 0 volts, not the usual 7 or so, giving it some real lower-speed control. My engines don't leap into action, but can actually start slowly, and there seems to be plenty of "head end" juice if more power is needed. I see Trainz has one currently listed at $40....
> 
> Mark in Oregon


do you think this will correct my problem


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## Strummer

It's hard to say without knowing what it is you are currently using. If you've got a small starter-set type transformer, then I'd say yes, the MRC I'm using should help; that or an AF 4B or something larger...

Mark in Oregon


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## flyernut

I use nothing but vintage flyer transformers on my layout. I run 302's, diesels, 283's, 290, 312's, and the occasional Hudsons. My k335 runs very well also. I use 8B's, and recently bought a 30B dual transformer. It's got plenty of guts.. I would start with a thorough rebuild of your motor,(brushes, springs, re-faced armature). I would then use feeder lines through out your layout. You might be having a power draw down when the train gets away from the initial lock-on. Does the train slow down when you get any distance away from the transformer, and get faster as it approaches the transformer?? My larger loop is 12'x12', and I use 2 lock-ons for power; one at the transformer site, and the other approx halfway through the loop.


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## Robdog289

Strummer said:


> It's hard to say without knowing what it is you are currently using. If you've got a small starter-set type transformer, then I'd say yes, the MRC I'm using should help; that or an AF 4B or something larger...
> 
> Mark in Oregon


I use the original transformer american flyer. 80watt. About a 5 foot oval. Seems to loose power halfway around the track. Sometimes stalls out


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## Robdog289

flyernut said:


> I use nothing but vintage flyer transformers on my layout. I run 302's, diesels, 283's, 290, 312's, and the occasional Hudsons. My k335 runs very well also. I use 8B's, and recently bought a 30B dual transformer. It's got plenty of guts.. I would start with a thorough rebuild of your motor,(brushes, springs, re-faced armature). I would then use feeder lines through out your layout. You might be having a power draw down when the train gets away from the initial lock-on. Does the train slow down when you get any distance away from the transformer, and get faster as it approaches the transformer?? My larger loop is 12'x12', and I use 2 lock-ons for power; one at the transformer site, and the other approx halfway through the loop.


Yes it stalls sometimes halfway around and or slows down when it gets far from the power clip. I just bought this engine from a reputable train shop and was told it was fully serviced


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## Strummer

Ok,so it sounds like you have to add some "feeder" lines,as Flyernut suggested. Quick and easy to do; you should see an improvement straight away.

Mark in Oregon


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## Robdog289

Is some very minimal sparks from the metal wheels on the tender normal? It does this from time to time?

I did order some more power clips for the track so i will hopefully have them in a couple days


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## The New Guy

Robdog289 said:


> Is some very minimal sparks from the metal wheels on the tender normal?..


Wipe the track down with some 3 in 1 oil. If you have lamp oil (kerosene) that's actually what the flyer manual recommends. No sparking, and I bet it'll solve some of your power drop issues too. 

Use a light touch. It's not salad dressing.


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## daveh219

FlyerNut gives excellent advice...as do others. Follow their recommendatons and I think you'll be set. Don't forget Lionel post=war transformers. I use three different Lionel power packs for my various layouts and they perform well.

DaveH


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## Robdog289

The New Guy said:


> Wipe the track down with some 3 in 1 oil. If you have lamp oil (kerosene) that's actually what the flyer manual recommends. No sparking, and I bet it'll solve some of your power drop issues too.
> 
> Use a light touch. It's not salad dressing.


 Lol! Thanks i will try that as well.


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## Kwikster

The New Guy said:


> Wipe the track down with some 3 in 1 oil. If you have lamp oil (kerosene) that's actually what the flyer manual recommends. No sparking, and I bet it'll solve some of your power drop issues too.
> 
> Use a light touch. It's not salad dressing.


Even better is clipper oil, the kind of clippers used to trim hair. It works well and helps to repel dust for a long time. I don't let 3-n-1 oil within 100 yards of anything train related. Over time that stuff turns to a nasty, sticky mess. No offense intended though. I spent several hours removing the residue left behind from a few old Lionel items, lots of work. The best oil to use on trains and rolling stock is plain ordinary 5w-30 motor oil, it never dries out and lasts a long time between services.

Carl


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## flyernut

Robdog289 said:


> Is some very minimal sparks from the metal wheels on the tender normal? It does this from time to time?
> 
> I did order some more power clips for the track so i will hopefully have them in a couple days


Sparks are somewhat normal, I wouldn't worry about them.. It sounds like you definitely need those feeder lines. That should take care of the problem. But I would look at your connections between the tracks. A five foot oval shouldn't really lose that much power unless there's something going on with your track pins/connectors. The pin connectors should be bent towards the outside just a pinch, so when the tracks go together, they form a good, solid connection.Also, instead of using track lock-ons, you can just as easy solder feeder wires to the bottom of the tracks. I use both methods.


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## The New Guy

Kwikster said:


> I don't let 3-n-1 oil within 100 yards of anything train related. Over time that stuff turns to a nasty, sticky mess. No offense intended though.


None taken. haven't had an issue using it on the tracks, so I guess I'll see over time.

Where I got it from. The notion, not the oil.


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## Robdog289

OK, so I got motivated and really cleaned the tracks very well. I also used scotchbrite on the pickup wheels and wow, what a difference. 

I then took it apart and cleaned alot of dust and crud out of the motor area, put some more oil on the motor oil wick, put some graphite into the wheels for lubrication. and again, even better!! I guess it wasn't 'serviced" as well as they claimed it to be....

Anyway, i am going to try adding one more power clip onto the tracks when they arrive just to see if it makes any more difference for low speed. I still have to throttle it to around 50% before it moves steadily. (down from 80-100% before).

The sparks are almost nonexistent now after the cleaning. I am going to put a very light coat of clipper oil on the tracks.

Even the smoker works better now, my kid is very happy.

Thanks for all the help to everyone. Much appreciated!!!!!!!!:


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## Robdog289

clicked submit twice, sorry


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## Kwikster

It's better to have more power drops than too few. Adding one to the far side will reduce voltage losses a lot. My current oval is roughly 40x90 with two drops, it works with one, but much better with two. Can't wait train table coming soon, then I'll be needing a few more. Plans are for a 4x16 table with expansion to 6x16 in the future. 

Carl


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## Nuttin But Flyer

The trick to Flyers running well is good clean track and wheels. Adding the extra feeders will help a ton too. Although I would not use oil of any kind to clean track. My recommendation, take for what you will, is to use green scotchbrite pads and then a rag with alcohol to clean the rails afterward. You can use the alcohol on the metal wheels too. Gotta be good and clean. Polish the wheels with a brass brush on a Dremel if you have it. Or simply use a 2000 grit sandpaper - either works well to shine them up.


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