# What switches do you use?



## ElSimon (May 26, 2010)

I have 3 of my 4 loops running. I only need the last loop on the third level to complete (for now) the track portion of my layout. I have 3 sidings in the train yard. A siding next to the city (to be built) for industry, one at the lake for the resort and one hidden in the mountain (my son does not know about this one). I have 12 turnouts all operational. My bridges are: (2) wood log style, 1 steel girder, 1 sandstone arch and 1 concrete. I need to build the last 2 wood trestle bridges (this will complete the 4th loop and 3rd level of track).

The questions I have for this post are:
1. What switches does everyone use to power their sidings?
2. Do you isolate both rails in a siding?
3. Any other thoughts or ideas to help me?


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

You can do either a single pole single throw (SPST) switch and isolate one rail, or a double pole single throw (DPST) switch and isolate both rails. Both work equally well.


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## ElSimon (May 26, 2010)

Does anyone use lights to indicate the siding is live? If so, where and how?


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

It can get a little complicated, but the switch you use to cut the power to the siding can also control light on the control board.
The trick is to get switches that have dual sets of contacts one set will run from the transformer to the siding track the other set will run from acc power to the lights, switch one way light goes green for live siding switch other way light goes red for dead siding.


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## the_train_nut (Feb 14, 2011)

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7632&stc=1&d=1297790977

Here's how I handle all the Power Blocks on my N scale layout. It takes a bit of soldering on each double pole double throw switch and bipolar LED, but its really a simple thing once you attach each set of wires to your siding tracks. You will need to attach isolators on both tracks of each siding just after the turnouts to each siding, but it adds to the operation of everything you'll do on your setup.

You can ignore all the wiring from the voltmeter and below, unless you add the meter and 120 v.a.c. switch and indicator on your control panel. By the way, I no longer have the Bachmann 44-6681 transformers. I switched over to MRC Railpower 1300 units exclusively -- I have six on my layout, so it becomes absolutely necessary to have the voltmeters and track polarity indicators installed! 

It's a 40' by 12' benchwork with parallel passenger loops, a service yard with a 12-stall roundhouse (I currently have 23 locomotives there), a service yard, and approximately 22 scale miles of freight track serving 49 industries -- many with multiple sidings.


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## ElSimon (May 26, 2010)

I have isolated both rails for each siding. I have leads attached to the rails and these are fed through the board. I Just need to connect these leads to the power source with a switch.It is not imparative that I have an indicator light on my control panel. It would just be nice to know I have power there. I am not running DCC (too much of a traditionalist). My sons will go with DCC on theirs. I wanted to be up and running sooner and run my train like I did as a kid on my dad's track.

I think I will need triple pole single throw switches. One pole for the light, the other two for the rails.

Thanks for the ideas.


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## the_train_nut (Feb 14, 2011)

If you use a triple pole single throw switch, all you'll be able to do is have track power "on" or "off". 
With the crossover wiring on the DPDT switches, you can run a locomotive both Forward or Reverse on the sidings while also running in either direction on the Main Line. Having the indicator LED's will also let you know whether you have proper polarity on a particular section or if a locomotive crossing the turnout will cause a short circuit. hwell:
Either way, it's always fun to play, isn't it?


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

the_train_nut said:


> http://www.modeltrainforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7632&stc=1&d=1297790977
> 
> Here's how I handle all the Power Blocks on my N scale layout. It takes a bit of soldering on each double pole double throw switch and bipolar LED, but its really a simple thing once you attach each set of wires to your siding tracks. You will need to attach isolators on both tracks of each siding just after the turnouts to each siding, but it adds to the operation of everything you'll do on your setup.
> 
> ...



Your link is not working.......at least for me.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Link doesn't work.

*Invalid Attachment specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator*


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## the_train_nut (Feb 14, 2011)

Still learning about the website and its particulars!!!! Try this one:

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/album.php?albumid=104


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