# Kadee Coupler Trip Pin



## Dr Bob (Dec 31, 2013)

Those darn trip pins can be a problem for my operation. I have adjusted my coupler heights and bought the special pliers to adjust the pins, but I still have few times they catch on things. I have read that if you do not intend to use magnetic uncouplers you can cut them off. Is that correct or do they serve another purpose? Have any of you cut them off?

Dr Bob


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## fcwilt (Sep 27, 2013)

If you don't ever plan on using magnetic uncoupling you CAN cut them off.

However they shouldn't be catching.

Possible problems: Adjustment is not quite right, track has high spots, couplers are too loose and the position changes.


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

The two adjacent trip pins are supposed to model the brake air lines connecting the cars. So you might want to keep them.

I think the standard clearance that KaDee strives for is 1/32 in. So it does not take much to make then catch. I find that there is a little variation in the degree of bending in the KaDee trip pins. The trip pins can be bent a little more to avoid catching. The bending can be done, if you are careful, with two sets of needle-nose pliers. But there is a special tool that Kadee makes for bending (and unbending) them that makes it much easier to make the adjustment.

I have a grade crossing near the edge of my layout. Every time I change couplers, I set the car on that grade crossing and look with a flashlight to make sure that I have at least 1/32" clearance.


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## RT_Coker (Dec 6, 2012)

Dr Bob,
Put a slight downward pressure on the end-of-coupler when checking trip-pin-height.
Bob


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## DavefromMD (Jul 25, 2013)

I have not removed them, but I have shortened them up a bit on a few occasions. I trim enough off the end so that it doesn't catch anymore. You don't notice it as the trains roll by.


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

Here's what Kadee's coupler pin tool looks like:


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## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

Yes, you can clip them off...it is a growing trend with those who would rather manually uncouple...most times using a bamboo skewer, long sandwich toothpick or a very small flat jeweler's screwdriver poked into the knuckles, then twisted clockwise.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

i have the kadee tool, works well, also have a couple off evil bay, wire looping pliers, for around 5 dollars each, three step and tapered , same with plastic cushioned handles


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I agree with FCwilt. Couplers set at the correct height, wi the correct amount of vertical paly shouldn't catch. It's probably worth your time to find out why.

I uncouple my cars with skewers, and have trimmed pins, too. They still work fine.


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## jesteck (Apr 15, 2014)

What are they catching on? There shouldn't BE anything between the rails that sticks up above the railheads, so 1/32" of clearance should miss everything. Try sliding a flat piece of plastic along the rails and see what it catches on.


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

I find that when a trip pin catches...
The most likely cause is the coupler is not being at the right height.
The second most likely cause is the trip pin is a little too straight.
The least likely cause is a track problem.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

They aren't by any chance catching where inclines start or stop, are they?


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## jesteck (Apr 15, 2014)

I agree with MtRR75 in principal- if it's always the same car or the one next to it that has the problem, the most likely cause is a loose or misaligned coupler or trip pin; however, track problems can and do crop up from time to time, especially around turnouts. If you use under-table machines, sometimes the operating wire (especially on a new installation) can extend too high. With an older layout built on top of foam insulation this can occur somewhat easily if something is dropped on or near the turnout that compresses the foam a bit (1/32" isn't much clearance). A piece of loose ballast can create problems that come and go as it gets moved around when it gets hit. Sometims turnout rails (not mentioning any particular make or model here) become loose or get misaligned. A magnet built for code 100 glued onto code 83 track will wreak havoc- might be fine if you have a little extra bend on your trip pins, but once in a while- WHAMMO! Ours is not to reason why; ours is to discover the reason why, and fix it- whether coupler, track, or other. Remember Murphy's law. Check out all possibilities.


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## Dr Bob (Dec 31, 2013)

OK. Thanks for the advice. I bought the Kadee tool (pliers) to adjust the pin and I have the Kadee height gauge. My shelf layout in all one level so no up and down track. I have been tuning up my rolling stock and find some of my vintage cars cannot handle quite enough adjustment washers to get them exactly at the right height, but close. I have found bending the trip pins up and clipping off about 1/8 inch solves the problem. I am also converting to metal wheels and NMRA weights.

Thanks for the help.

Dr Bob


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## feldon30 (Dec 30, 2012)

shaygetz said:


> Yes, you can clip them off...it is a growing trend with those who would rather manually uncouple...most times using a bamboo skewer, long sandwich toothpick or a very small flat jeweler's screwdriver poked into the knuckles, then twisted clockwise.


I operate on a layout that clipped them all off. We all get increasingly impatient with the bamboo skewers and it can be downright unpleasant when you've jabbed one 3 or 4 times to no avail. I'm looking into some other options for when I am operating at this layout, but on my own layout, I'll be keeping the trip pins and just carefully adjusting them. Using magnetic uncouplers is such a pleasure to use that it's worth the extra effort to keep my trackwork clean and free of snags.


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## feldon30 (Dec 30, 2012)

Dr Bob said:


> OK. Thanks for the advice. I bought the Kadee tool (pliers) to adjust the pin and I have the Kadee height gauge. My shelf layout in all one level so no up and down track. I have been tuning up my rolling stock and find some of my vintage cars cannot handle quite enough adjustment washers to get them exactly at the right height, but close. I have found bending the trip pins up and clipping off about 1/8 inch solves the problem. I am also converting to metal wheels and NMRA weights.
> 
> Thanks for the help.
> 
> Dr Bob


I am very new at this, but if you need a zillion washers to get the height right, another option is to pick up couplers that are under or over rather than the default height. I think too many washers can add instability.


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## Featherbedder (Jun 29, 2014)

The Kaydee overset and underset couplers help a lot to get the correct height. I always keep a supply of them on hand. I agree, the washers make the cars unstable. They lean on the curves and sometimes even tip over.


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

Plus, and more importantly in my opinion, the cars would look "wrong", sitting too high on their trucks......


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## Chet (Aug 15, 2014)

I use uncoupling magnets so I keep the pins on. Check the vertical play in the coupler. It may match the coupler gauge but when being pushed or pulled, it can move up or down if the coupler isn't properly mounted in the coupler pocket. I am a bit anal when it comes to couplers. Most of my freight equipment is Athearn Blue Box kits I picked up over 25 years ago when I was starting to build my layout. Many were bought undecorated which I custom painted and weathered. Once in a while I have run across a car where the clip holding the coupler in the pocket wasn't tight allowing the couplers to move slightly up or down causing the trip pin to catch on a turnout or a highway crossing. A rather simple fix of an overlooked problem.


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