# Where should one start on getting into DCC?



## mbfarmboy (Jan 5, 2014)

What would be a good entry system into DCC? 
Currently just been playing around with some old DC sets but thinking about getting more serious.
My big plan is to have a layout on a 4x8 but not an overly complex layout. Probably something where I could run two trains at once but not necessarily on the same track or sharing parts of certain track. With that idea in mind not sure if DCC is worth it or not or if it's easier to stick with DC.
Still trying to figure out in a DCC system how everything gets wired and so on especially everything to do with switches, turnouts and so on.
What's the best way to go about figuring this all out?


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## Brakeman Jake (Mar 8, 2009)

Digitrax Zephyr Extra & NCE starter set...full functions,expandable...high end sets.Then you have the others...most have limited capabilities and are easy to use,they sell cheaper and that's what they are...cheaper stuff and not expandable for most.

Decoders...silent types...Digitrax,TCS,NCE,Soundtrax.
Sound decoders...Soundtraxx Tsunami.ESU.Some are happy with MRC sound decoders but most stay away from them...enormous failure rate.

Turnouts can be operated three ways...manually if you can reach them,electric with regular SPDT switches or with your DCC set through auxiliairy decoders (costly,not required unless you want to computerize the layout).

Best way to go...read a lot and ask questions.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Jake has pretty well answered all of your questions. I would add that
after reading Forum threads, the best way to get informed about
why you should go with DCC is
to visit a DCC operated layout at a hobby shop, train club or in a
private home. 

Short of that, shop around on Craigslist for a used starter set. Look in
the categories, "collectibles' and also "toys and games". Enter HO trains
in their search fields. You might also use your own "wanted' posting
in those categories. With a little patience you can come up with a very
good bargain. Keep watching the threads in the Forums buy and sell
forum also.

DCC wiring is simple. On the typical 4 X 8 layout you would have
a couple of drops from the track fed by the DCC controller. That's it.
No need for insulated sections or switches to control power feeds.
You would use your current DC power pack to power your turnouts and
other accessories. Only the most advanced modellers go with DCC
operated turnouts.

Unless you plan to expand to a larger layout in the future or add 
sound to your locomotives, you can also consider the Bachmann EZ
DCC starter set. It is more limited than the ones suggested by Jake
but is totally satisfactory for the small layout. My Bachmann has
no problem running 7 locomotives at the same time on my layout.

All DCC gear must meet NMRA standards so all brands are compatible.

Don


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## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

i see there is only one thing that has not been said.

with DCC you have to make sure your turn outs are DCC friendly!
other than that DCC is easy to wire, and will give you all the expansion you want later.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Wingnut

Didn't you know that what you said would bring my usual
plug for Peco Insulfrog turnouts.  You are, of course,
very right on in mentioning it. 

But, I assumed our guy already had some Atlas or other
turnouts that most likely will be compatible with DCC.

Farmboy

What wingnut means is that some turnouts have metal
frogs that require powering to match the way the
turnout is set else there would be a short circuit or
no circuit for locos going through it. However, most turnouts in
use today are compatible with DCC. No special
wiring is required. It is not a big
problem and there are ways to convert any turnout
to be compatible.

Don


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## timlange3 (Jan 16, 2013)

Turnouts that are DCC friendly are a myth! You mean turnouts that are power, DC or DCC,
friendly. A power routing turnout will cause problems with DC or DCC if not insulated correctly. If you have a live frog you should insulate correctly with DC or DCC. Using DCC your fast acting breaker will trip due to a short, with DC you will get arcs and jerky train movement. The arcs will pit the wheels and rail.


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## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

timlange3 said:


> Turnouts that are DCC friendly are a myth! You mean turnouts that are power, DC or DCC,
> friendly. A power routing turnout will cause problems with DC or DCC if not insulated correctly. If you have a live frog you should insulate correctly with DC or DCC. Using DCC your fast acting breaker will trip due to a short, with DC you will get arcs and jerky train movement. The arcs will pit the wheels and rail.



i do not agree!


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## timlange3 (Jan 16, 2013)

Wingnut, do you seriously think a power routing turnout will work without gapping (insulating) the frog rails? Explain your comment.
Thanks,
Tim.


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## Brakeman Jake (Mar 8, 2009)

In theory,all turnouts should be DCC friendly...not so in the real world tough.A few years ago,I had a small N scale test layout with a pair of Shinohara turnouts that momentarily shorted when moving,but not long enough for my DC power supply to feel it and trip.When I converted to DCC,the DCS200 always reacted instantly and tripped all the time.
I haven't had this problem with the Peco turnouts I use now.They're Electrofrog types installed as per Peco's instructions...insulated frog rails.I havent modified any nor power a single frog yet.


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## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

If you want to get into it real cheap with the Bachmann EZ DCC, I have one that I bought from another member here. I wanted it for my Christmas layout and it worked great but I've since bought a NCE PowerCab so I no longer have a need for it. I bought it for $45 shipping included. I can pass it on if you're interested.


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## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

timlange3 said:


> Wingnut, do you seriously think a power routing turnout will work without gapping (insulating) the frog rails? Explain your comment.
> Thanks,
> Tim.


read Don R posted.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Want to clear up something here.

Both, Tim and Wingnut are correct about the
need to be aware of how the frog is powered
and where many put insulated joiners, sometimes
mandatory. But it is equally important in DC and DCC.

I use Peco INSULFROG. They are power routing
but it does not require insulated joiners.
However, there is an option to use insulated joiners
on rails existing the frog if you have 
wide wheels that are spanning the thin
insulation between the frog rails and shorting. Even so, 
instead of insulated joiners, I
simply use a small dot of clear fingernail
polish on the rail heads of the frog. It lasts for
months even with heavy traffic.

Don


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