# HO track and switches



## trainlove

I have been using Atlas track and switches mainly because of cost. I have burnt several switch motors up plastic melts on top not sure why. Atlas track seems to be ok will Peco switches work with Atlas tracks, want to have remote controlled switches. What switch motor would you recommend, and what is included with motor. Sill running DC because of inventory. Getting ready to start planning a new layout, it would not hurt to store switches for awhile


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## johnfl68

The staple of many many layouts for a long time has been the Tortoise switch machine, considered the Number 1 switch machine.
This would be more of a "DC" switch, many different ways to wire and hook up. These typically mount under the table.
http://www.circuitron.com/index_files/Tortoise.htm

Many people stock, about $18 a piece, a little less if you shop around or someone has on sale. Also better pricing on 6 or 12 packs.

If you are moving to DCC, there are a few DCC switch controllers out there available to control these, so there are options.

Circuitron also has a DCC version called the Smail, but it is about $30.
http://www.circuitron.com/index_files/Smail.htm



Rapido Trains wants to try and be Number 2 with their RailCrew Switch Machine.
They had a delay because of issues with the first batch, so they did a redesign. These have finally started to ship out and be available, I have not gotten one in yet to try out, but I do like this switch with the included rotating targets. So far what few reviews I have heard about them, people seem to like them. Time will tell if they take their place just behind the Tortoise. 
This is also a "DC" switch, but again, there are DCC options for controlling them. These mount in the table using a 1-1/8" hole saw. A little more difficult to install on existing layouts, but not impossible.
https://rapidotrains.com/switch-machine/

People are starting to stock these, they are running about the same $18 price each, a little less if you shop around. Also better pricing on 6 or 12 packs.

Hope that helps!


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## sachsr1

The reason you are melting the switches is the power to the turnout motor is staying on too long. It just takes a split second to throw the solenoid if you hold the button down the power continues to flow and will melt the plastic (guess how I know). That being said I have used Atlas, Peco, and other "unknown" brand turnouts. The Atlas turnouts I have are good, but I prefer to use the Tortoise motors instead of the snap switches. I recently started using cheap RC servos for turnouts. There is a lot more elbow grease and programming, but they are about $4 per turnout vs. about $30 (including DCC control)


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## trainlove

Thanks for the information I found out a switch stuck which is why it melted. I checked a couple places and found the tortoise motors for $15.90 in a 12 pack watched the video on the rapido trains motor looks like a good setup don't know yet which one I wilol use but thinking about sticking with my switches and a good motorn
hoping for more ideas to come in.


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## santafealltheway

trainlove said:


> Thanks for the information I found out a switch stuck which is why it melted. I checked a couple places and found the tortoise motors for $15.90 in a 12 pack watched the video on the rapido trains motor looks like a good setup don't know yet which one I wilol use but thinking about sticking with my switches and a good motorn
> hoping for more ideas to come in.


also, those motors you have are generally okay t o use, but i'd throw those cheapy plastic slider switches out the window. hit up ace hardware for some quality momentary pushers.


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## trainlove

Thanks for the tip


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## Cycleops

When you switch to DCC things will be much better using servo controlled type systems and no more annoying buzzing too


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## CTValleyRR

I would recommend that you look at servo-based solutions from Tam Valley Depot. (www.tamvalleydepot.com). They are an elegant and simple solution. I have been using them for about 12 years now, and am a big fan.

You need one switch machine (I use the TVD Microswitch Machine) per turnout. These are about the size of a quarter in each dimension) and come with a 3" long activating wire already attached. I use double sided foam tape to hold them to the underside of my layout.

For a controller, one Octo III will control up to 8 servos, and there also a crossover controller which will move both sets of points in unison for either crossing over or running straight through.

I like his bi-color LED's to control the turnouts. While you can mount them any way you chose, I have found that his laser-cut mounts to be perfect.

Basically, you mount the servo under your turnout, connect it to the controller, and connect the activation switch to the same numbered terminal on the controller as the servo it activates. All connections are made using standard Futaba RC cables, which are widely available on the internet in various lengths. The price is comparable to Tortoise motors.


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## DonR

If you will continue to use any twin coil turnout motors
you can protect them by using a capacitor discharge 
unit, (CDU). The cap charges and when you use your
panel switch it discharges to the twin coil, moves the points then dies. You could hold down your button or switch without
harm to the twin coils. You can make your own or
buy a CDU. You need only one no matter how many
turnouts you have. 

Don


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## traction fan

*Turnout choices*



trainlove said:


> I have been using Atlas track and switches mainly because of cost. I have burnt several switch motors up plastic melts on top not sure why. Atlas track seems to be ok will Peco switches work with Atlas tracks, want to have remote controlled switches. What switch motor would you recommend, and what is included with motor. Sill running DC because of inventory. Getting ready to start planning a new layout, it would not hurt to store switches for awhile


trainlove;

It sounds like you are at a possible turning point regarding your next layout in general, and turnouts & their motors in particular. I just read through the replies, and you have received a lot of good information. Since I don't know your budget of either money, or time, I'm going to give several types of information for your own consideration.
While DCC is a good way to control trains, It does not necessarily need to be the way turnouts are operated on a DCC layout. DCC controllers are available to do this job, but they are going to be more expensive than other methods of operating a turnout. Have you looked at the overall costs of putting a Tortoise motor, and a DCC controller (or one channel of a multi-turnout controller) on every turnout? It can be quite high. Some of the alternatives, like ground throws, servos, twin coil machines with a capacitive discharge unit, etc. are a lot less expensive.
Some folks find it silly to operate a turnout by "remote control" when said turnout is within easy reach. They would rather just use a ground throw, or even just flick the points of a Peco turnout with their finger. Others would rather spend the money, and time, so as not to have to do that sort of thing. It's your choice.
If you have plenty of money to spend, then any of the recommended systems can be used. If you have more time than money, you can use, or even make, your own, cheaper, turnout control mechanism, or even your own turnouts. 

Yes, you can use Atlas track and Peco turnouts. You may have to do a little shimming to get the rail tops even, but it's not hard.
You can't just pull out an Atlas turnout and replace it with a Peco without adjusting the track configuration. The two brands of turnout are different shapes. However this is perfectly possible, and many have done it. If you're starting a new layout, I suggest using Peco turnouts right from the start.

The attachments below have more information for you to consider before starting that new layout. Since there is so much in them, I suggest just reading a couple to start, and saving the others for future reference.

If you decide to stick with Atlas turnouts, then I would suggest reading "Improving Atlas turnouts, AND taking DonR's excellent advice about using a capacitive discharge system to prevent those burnouts! 
Don's a very nice, and smart, guy. He may be able to provide a diagram of his C.D.U. circuit for you.

The other attached documents that might be the most helpful in starting over are, "Where do I start" and "Model Railroading on a budget."
The rest will only help if you are considering making your own turnout operating machines, or your own turnouts. Either, or both, can save you a lot of money, but at the expense of more time. Your choice.

Good Luck;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## trainlove

I want to thank everybody for their input, a lot of information to absorb. While I have built a couple of smaller layouts this one will be bigger and want to do it right from the start. Again THANK YOU will keep you posted on progress


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## trainlove

I want to thank everybody for their ideas, a lot to absorb. I want to do things right and take my time. If I could get the same response for another post would be great looking for some specific train cars and have heard a thing. Again THANK YOU


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## mesenteria

I don't see another post......?


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## trainlove

Sorry I should have been more specific it's under want to buy member to member


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## traction fan

*Cars for sale*



trainlove said:


> Sorry I should have been more specific it's under want to buy member to member


Trainlove;

If you are planning to buy new cars, then I recommend Micro-Trains brand cars. They are more expensive, ($15-$30 each) but beautifully made, and offer the advantage of already having the excellent Micro-Trains couplers installed by the factory. 
If you would rather buy used cars, to save money, I have some for sale on the "For sale Member to Member" section. ($2 ea. in most cases.)
E-bay is another source for used cars, since I don't use E-bay, I can't comment on it. My mistake, I was thinking N-scale and your modeling in HO-scale.

good luck;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## tullnd

traction fan said:


> Trainlove;
> 
> If you are planning to buy new cars, then I recommend Micro-Trains brand cars. They are more expensive, ($15-$30 each) but beautifully made, and offer the advantage of already having the excellent Micro-Trains couplers installed by the factory.
> If you would rather buy used cars, to save money, I have some for sale on the "For sale Member to Member" section. ($2 ea. in most cases.)
> E-bay is another source for used cars, since I don't use E-bay, I can't comment on it.
> 
> good luck;
> 
> Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


Micro-Trains makes HO scale stuff? I didn't see anything on their website.


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## CTValleyRR

tullnd said:


> Micro-Trains makes HO scale stuff? I didn't see anything on their website.


We often get caught in the moment and forget what scale we are talking about. I'm sure that's what happened.

As far as I know, Micro-Trains doesn't make HO.


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## tullnd

CTValleyRR said:


> We often get caught in the moment and forget what scale we are talking about. I'm sure that's what happened.
> 
> As far as I know, Micro-Trains doesn't make HO.


Ah ok, I was hoping maybe I had missed something or he mispoke a similar name. I'm still in the "research for best balance of quality/price rolling stock" stage while finalizing my layout...and recognizing the rising expenses lol.

I really should have spent all this money before I proposed.


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## trainlove

*Cars*

I am not really for new cars the one I posted on member to member is the company I used to work for. I have a couple of more questions I will use plywood for the decking what do most people use on top of the plywood. Also what is the preferred method for fastening track down. Will a 90' turntable work with 6 axle locomotives. Traction Fan thanks for the articles have not got through them all but really good information.


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## traction fan

*My bad*



tullnd said:


> Micro-Trains makes HO scale stuff? I didn't see anything on their website.


tullnd;

You're right, I was wrong. I've been in N-scale for decades and tend to think in terms of N-scale. Since the OP is using HO-scale, he would contact Kadee, not Micro-Trains. The two companies used to be one. Both make excellent cars in their respective scales.

Traction Fan:smilie_auslachen:


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## traction fan

*Answers*



trainlove said:


> I am not really for new cars the one I posted on member to member is the company I used to work for. I have a couple of more questions I will use plywood for the decking what do most people use on top of the plywood. Also what is the preferred method for fastening track down. Will a 90' turntable work with 6 axle locomotives. Traction Fan thanks for the articles have not got through them all but really good information.


 trainlove;

1) Many use extruded foam insulation board on top of, or instead of, plywood. It's light, strong, and can be carved to make scenic features. There is a more thorough explanation of table options in the "Where do I start article I sent you. You might also check the "Basics of building a layout thread at the start of this "Beginner's Q&A" section.

2) Latex caulk is commonly used to fasten track down. You don't need gobs of it. A small dab at each end of each sectional track piece; or a dab every 6" or so on flex track is sufficient. (B.T.W. This is also in "Where do I start". )

3) Only if the six-axle locomotive is less than 88 scale feet long. That would depend on which loco you are referring to. The advertising for model locomotives some times gives their length in scale, or real, feet/inches. A 90' turntable won't handle everything. Walthers makes a 130' model. Some diesels don't always need to be turned, they can run equally well in either direction. Other modern ones only have decent cab visibility from one end, and they are turned. Different railroads also have different rules on the subject. Some prefer the long hood forward, others not. 
Turntable length was more of an issue with steam locomotives than diesels. The bigger steam loco, and it's tender, could be longer than some turntables. Turntables themselves are fast fading from the railroad scene. Modern practice is to use a wye for turning, rather than a turntable. 

4) You are very welcome! You don't need to hurry, or read everything at once. (or at all for that matter! :laugh: ) Start with "Where do I start", when you have the chance.

regards;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## trainlove

*Decisions*

Its been awhile since I have posted I have purchased 12 tortoise switch machines. I will be using Peco switches on the main line and rebuild the Atlas ones for use in the siding area. I have not chosen a layout yet have two in mind may combine the two of them. Waiting on room to become available to start.


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## DonR

The Peco turnouts are a very wise choice. You won't have
turnout caused derails.

Since you'll be using the Tortoise stall motors be sure to
remove the locking springs from your Pecos. They will
interfere with your Tortoises.

Don


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## trainlove

*Spring*

Thanks for the tip, everything helps like I said i have built 2 smaller layouts with mixed results and would like this one to be better.


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## trainlove

The next question I am using Peco switches 4 X 8 layout with a 4' wide staging area which is best medium radius turnouts or large radius.


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## Cycleops

trainlove said:


> The next question I am using Peco switches 4 X 8 layout with a 4' wide staging area which is best medium radius turnouts or large radius.


As the actress said to the Archbishop its all about size. If you can make the larger radii work in the space fine but you might not have any choice.
If space is really tight you can go with their shorter Setrack turnouts, but only if using code 100. You’ll want your staging area tracks to be as long as possible so the Setrack might be your best choice.


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## DonR

All of my Pecos are 'small'...I have no derail problems
of any kind with them on my main lines or yards.
All my locos are 4 wheel truck
diesels but I do have 70 foot silver side passenger
cars. All with body mount couplers. You won't 'need' the larger Pecos but they may look more proto.

Don


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## trainlove

I will be running some 6 wheel trucks and also have a Union Pacific gas turbine and a schnabel car so from what has been said I think I will maybe go with the medium switches. Probably better to do it in the first place than wish I did after track is laid down.


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## trainlove

I am getting closer to starting on my layout next question would be rail joiners or solder the joints also should I put some gaps for expansion if so how far apart should they be can you use rail joiners and solder.


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## CTValleyRR

trainlove said:


> I am getting closer to starting on my layout next question would be rail joiners or solder the joints also should I put some gaps for expansion if so how far apart should they be can you use rail joiners and solder.


The actual expansion and contraction of nickel silver on a layout of even room size is negligible.

The expansion and contraction of wood, however, can be very problematic, even if it is sealed with paint, varnish, etc.

Most people connect their track in "blocks". I've heard as little as 2-3' long, and as long as a dozen. Each block has a separate set of feeder wires, and all joiners within the block are soldered. Maybe this is a technicality, but I don't know anyone who solders the joints themselves -- standard joiners are used and are soldered to the rails on either side.

Between blocks, leave a small gap between the rails, say about 1/16". That will account for any shifting due to expansion and contraction of the benchwork and sub-roadbed.


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## trainlove

Thanks for the information along the lines I was thinking about I'm sure there will be more questions as I go along


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## CTValleyRR

trainlove said:


> Thanks for the information along the lines I was thinking about I'm sure there will be more questions as I go along


Bring 'em on! We'll get 'em answered for you!


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## trainlove

I sure will thank you


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## trainlove

The build is about to begin I'm sure will have questions as I go along


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## CTValleyRR

trainlove said:


> The build is about to begin I'm sure will have questions as I go along


Like I said, let 'er rip.

You've got questions, we've got answers.


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## trainlove

OK here is the first question what switch is best used to control tortoise switch machines, also anybody ever heard of snaps from acculites it's supposed to eliminate soldering on the tortoise. Guess that was two questions


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## DonR

Use an ordinary double pole/double throw (dpdt)
switch for your tortoise motors.. No special device necessary. 

However, The Stapleton 751 is available for
Tortoise application.

http://www3.sympatico.ca/kstapleton3/751D.HTM

Don


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## CTValleyRR

trainlove said:


> OK here is the first question what switch is best used to control tortoise switch machines, also anybody ever heard of snaps from acculites it's supposed to eliminate soldering on the tortoise. Guess that was two questions


If you have already invested in Tortoise machines, then Don's answer is a good solution.

If you haven't made the investment yet, and don't want to solder, there are many options to chose from.

My personal choice is miniature servo motors from Tam Valley Depot. Everthing plugs together with standard RC cables, and the performance and price is comparable.


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## trainlove

Ok a couple of questions my table is 8' wide I will be using flex track for the first time, I am thinking about starting curves on one side of table and just have a full curve to other side sound ok. There will be a 2 track main line which leads to the next question. I have a tool that puts spacing at 2" between outside rails is this enough.


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## MichaelE

It might be. It depends upon the length of the equipment you will be using and if there is a chance that two trains with longer equipment have a chance of passing one another.

I'd space at 2-1/4" on 22" and 24" radius. If you are really using 48" radius curves I wouldn't worry too much about it.


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## trainlove

I think I will go with 2-1/4' spacing also some info I found a device called Snaps tortoise wiring device it snaps on the connector and has screws for the wiring made by a company called Accu Lites looks like it will easier than soldering. It has 8 terminals for all the hook ups


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## trainlove

Okay here is the next question I"m trying to install a bridge over a pond it is 14' high what would be a good incline to stay at have tried staying below 2% but the curve goes halfway around the layout should I lower the bridge.


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## traction fan

*Grades*



trainlove said:


> Okay here is the next question I"m trying to install a bridge over a pond it is 14' high what would be a good incline to stay at have tried staying below 2% but the curve goes halfway around the layout should I lower the bridge.


trainlove;

Grades take up more length of track than most newbies think they will. A lot more! Two percent is a good grade for running long trains with two, or more, locomotives. Model trains can climb a grade as steep as four percent, but that will mean short trains and plenty of pulling power up front. 
Most experienced modelers try to keep grades near the 2% mark. If keeping your grades at 2% requires lowering the bridge, then I suggest lowering it, rather than going to a much steeper grade.

Fourteen inches is a pretty high bridge. What type of bridge is it? Is there some reason that it needs to be that high? I,m assuming you mean real, full-size, inches, not scale inches. If you convert 14" to HO-scale feet, your bridge would be just over one hundred feet above the pond. That height is not unheard of in the real world; but most rail bridges over water tend to be a lot lower down. Sometimes a railroad's route through mountainous terrain dictates high bridges though. The attached photo shows my N-scale model of a typical Milwaukee Road steel trestle. The real Milwaukee used dozens of these to cross streams and rivers in the mountain ranges that the railroad crossed. By the way, my model "Garrison creek trestle" is about 14" above the creek. In N-scale that works out to about 186 feet above the creek. The grade on the trestle itself is less than 2% but my whole main line is a stretched out helix of nearly constant grades. They are necessary for a train to get from one level to another on my two-level model railroad.
Another thing to consider when designing a grade is the "vertical easements." These are sections of milder grade (1%) at the top, and bottom of each grade. They prevent things like a coupler trip pin digging into the ties at the bottom end of a grade, or unplanned uncouplings, and possibly runaway trains, due to the vertical shift between couplers at the top of a grade. Easements also make it easier for your train to transition (or ease) between level track and a grade. Easements are highly recommended, and they do add even more length of the track it takes to get from one elevation to another.

Good luck and have fun!

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## trainlove

The bridge is a double track Pratt Arched truss bridge I meant to say it is 14 scale feet high. Using some woods blocks I lowered it to 8 scale feet and got the grade down to around 1.2% which takes up less room and seems to match up better at the bridge where the track goes on the bridge. Thanks for the help it seems that no matter how big your layout is its never quite big enough. The reason I was concerned is on the inside track I want to install some switches for passenger traffic and industrial sidings.


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## CTValleyRR

trainlove said:


> Okay here is the next question I"m trying to install a bridge over a pond it is 14' high what would be a good incline to stay at have tried staying below 2% but the curve goes halfway around the layout should I lower the bridge.


That always works. The other thing you can do is lower the terrain that the bridge passes over so that it falls away from the tracks rather than track rising up to cross over.


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## trainlove

Another good idea thanks


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## trainlove

I have started to look at the track I have Peco switches and flex track I understand about the ends on the flex track but what about the switches same treatment,


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## DonR

trainlove said:


> I have started to look at the track I have Peco switches and flex track I understand about the ends on the flex track but what about the switches same treatment,


Maybe my old brain is addled, but I don't understand
your question. What treatment?

Don


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## trainlove

The treatment is do you remove a tie off the switch like the flex track. Sometimes I think faster than I type


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## CTValleyRR

trainlove said:


> The treatment is do you remove a tie off the switch like the flex track. Sometimes I think faster than I type


It'a not necessary to remove ties from most commercial turnouts to fit a rail joiner on them. However, if you intend to solder the joiners (and it's a good idea to do so), then removing ties will help you avoid melting them when you sold


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## trainlove

Thanks for the answer I intend to solder all joints when i get all the track layed


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## CTValleyRR

Nip the ties off before you lay the track. You can slip them back in afterwards (before ballasting.


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## trainlove

Thanks for the tip yardmaster first little hiccup I glued my track to the bridge just centered a flextrack on the bridge did not want the joints to close to the end of bridge. I used terstor cement for plastic models did not hold any suggestions.


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## CTValleyRR

Not sure what exactly you glued to what, but "cement for plastic models" and other similar adhesives work on styrene plastics by dissolving the plastic at the joint and then evaporating, leaving the plastic to reharden and fuse together.

They have absolutely no effect on other kinds of plastic or other materials. Use contact cement, cyanoacrylate, adhesive caulk, or even regular old white glue for some applications.


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## trainlove

Thanks for the tip I glued the ties to the bridge deck think I will use CA glue


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## trainlove

Its been awhile since my last post. I have both main line tracks put down and running, no ballast yet. I am working on siding but have to wait for more track to arrive. I also have been moving buildings around to decide what I like best, had a couple of small issue's but nothing to serious. Looks like it will be awhile for more work, got a call and about ready to go back to work for a few weeks. I want to again thank everybody for their help could not have done it without your help.


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## trainlove

I wish someone would warned me about the spring steel wire on the tortoise machines first couple switches were fun


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## CTValleyRR

trainlove said:


> I wish someone would warned me about the spring steel wire on the tortoise machines first couple switches were fun


What did you want to know about it? It's hardened steel music wire.


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## trainlove

Just how hard it can be to get everything lined up


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## CTValleyRR

Hmm. Never used Tortoises.

The Tam Valley Depot miniature servos I use also have a music wire link to the points, but it's exceptionally easy to get them lined up.

Unless perhaps you mean getting the wire through the hole in the throwbar. I do this by drilling it out slightly and passing a piece of brass tube with an inside diameter just big enough for the wire down through the enlarged hole until it protrudes under the table, then I insert the wire from the servo, stick the servo to the underside of the layout with double sided foam tape, and pull the tube out. After aligning the throw of the servo, i nip the end of the wire off.


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## trainlove

Thanks for the tip so far all the switches have been close to the edge making it easier to see but moving closer to the middle now, will have to try that


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## trainlove

Just wondering what most people do to hold buildings in place


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## MichaelE

Many will glue them down with white glue or acrylic latex.

Nothing is yet permanent on my layout so I find gravity works just fine.


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## DonR

I agree with Michael, unless you tilt your layout there
is no reason to adhere buildings to the layout. I'm very
clumsy, so there have been times that I have brushed
against a building. Had it been attached most likely
something would have been damaged. As it was not,
it simply moved a bit.

One tip, keep taller objects away from the sides
of your layout where you are most likely to
bump them. There will be a lot of occasions when
you must reach across to right a derail or some
such, so the fewer 'targets' you have the fewer
touches.

Don

Don


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## CTValleyRR

trainlove said:


> Just wondering what most people do to hold buildings in place


I cut toothpicks in half and stick them into the layout inside the corners of my structures. These keep the structure in place and in proper alignment. The toothpicks are secured with a drop of white glue, but only gravity holds the structures down.


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## trainlove

Thanks for the help there are a couple because of location I might glue but think for now will just sit them down


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## traction fan

*Building bases*

trainlove;

I glue my structures to a base of Luan plywood (for wooden structures), or plastic sheet (for plastic structures.) The bases are covered with appropriate scenic material to match their location, and then screwed down with tiny flat head wood screws. My layout is sectional. Due to my disability, I remove a section to my workbench and work on it while sitting. Having the structures firmly anchored (but still removable if necessary) keeps everything on the section when it is moved. 

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## trainlove

Another good idea, I have one big table with some places to move to work on things those buildings on those areas will be glued down.


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## trainlove

It's been quite awhile since I posted anything, layout is progressing but slowly I have another question looking for a good uncoupler for some sidings. I have tried Kadee magnets and not having much luck with them is there a good reliable uncoupler out there.


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## J.Albert1949

_"I have tried Kadee magnets and not having much luck with them is there a good reliable uncoupler out there."_

For sidings that are "reachable", I use the RIX uncoupling tool:
https://rixproducts.com/product/rix-uncoupling-tool-ho/

I have one siding that's difficult to reach (when the cars are spotted). So, I resort to a trick:
- have cars to spot ready to back into siding (but in a reachable place)
- manually uncouple cars, then use a pencil point (or something) to "push one couple aside" so that when the cars are pushed together, the couplers are "out of line"
- use engine to spot cars
- when engine pulls away, coupling will "come apart" on its own.


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## trainlove

thanks for the tip will try it


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## Dennis461

*try this*

Well lets start with the couplers. Kadee is most preferred and seems to be the ones you are using.

1. Make sure couplers are installed at the correct height and the un-coupling bar is at the right height.
(I do not know if the gauge can determine if the uncoupler bar is bent too far left or right)
2. Use the Kadee height gauge for this.

These first two are most important.

3. Make sure uncouplers swing left and right freely
4. Make sure uncouplers open easily

5. Use the Kadee height gauge to make sure your magnetic uncoupler is installed between the rails exact center and correct height (use the Kadee height gauge ).

Now some issues I am having which might make me switch to the electric under the track Kadee uncoupler.

I have been tuning up may cars to roll very easily. 
Now all I need is a slight hiccup from the engine while a coupler is over top of the magnetic uncoupler, and my train disconnects.

I also have steel axles which can make a single car move after uncoupling.

I also accidentally built a slight incline into my layout which makes an uncoupled set of cars roll down the pike and recouple!.

Bottom line, couplers need to be a very precise part of your layout. Keep at it, remember you have many years ahead to toil with your hobby.


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## DonR

Very good Kadee tips, Dennis.

He mentioned unwanted uncoupling.

Kadee makes two types of under track
uncoupling devices. The most common is
a magnet under the ties. When a loco backs a
car over it the metal 'air hoses' swing wide and
open the knuckles. There can be a problem with
these when some of your cars have metal wheels
and axles...you uncouple, but the magnet attracts
the metal wheels and the car moves, even recouples.
Non magnetic wheels and axles are the answer.

Under track magnets should be used only in
yards and spur tracks, never main lines as they
would cause unwanted uncoupling. However,
Kadee knows there is a need to uncouple on the main
so they have an eletro magnet that you energize when
the car you want is over it. Push a button, uncouple.

Then, there is the most tried and true method that
Kadee doesn't make...the HOG, Hand Of God...a
small dowel with one end ground to a flat point. You
insert the point into the knuckle coupler and do a
slight twist...that opens the knuckles. This is used
where ever there is no uncoupling device. I takes
a little practice but you'll find it is one of your most used
layout tools.

Don


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## trainlove

Thanks for all t5he help I did a little research and came up with another make it is the Rapido rail crew on/off uncoupler. Anybody know anything about them.


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## Magic

Here is a little review I did with mine.
They work pretty good with a little practice. 

https://www.modeltrainforum.com/showpost.php?p=1086193&postcount=263

Magic


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## traction fan

*No,but*



trainlove said:


> Thanks for all t5he help I did a little research and came up with another make it is the Rapido rail crew on/off uncoupler. Anybody know anything about them.


trainlove;

I can't give you any info on the Rapido rail crew uncoupler but I do have a couple of uncoupler suggestions for you.

Kadee makes two different types of permanent-magnet uncouplers, as well as the electromagnet one that Don told you about.

The first permanent magnet one is a narrow strip that mounts between the rails, and above the ties, or you can buy a piece of straight sectional track with this type of uncoupler already attached. This type is typically used only for sidings where there is occasional switching that requires uncoupling a car at one place, and then pushing the car to a different spot. (a warehouse door for example) The visible magnet is sometimes disguised as a road crossing. Since this uncoupler is constantly "on" it is unsuitable for mainline use.

The second type of Kadee permanent-magnet uncoupler is a large, thicker, square-shaped item. It is typically mounted directly under the ties. This is probably the "under the track magnet" that Don mentioned. It has two mounting options.

First, it can be permanently mounted under the track. Mounted this way, it would have the same "always on" problem as the above-the-ties version, and would not be any more suitable for use on a mainline track.
However, it can also be hinge mounted. This means the magnet can be tilted down to "turn it off" or pulled up directly under the track to "turn it on." This magnet can also be made stronger by sticking a second magnet to the bottom of the first. If installed in this fashion, it could be used as a mainline uncoupler, since it can be either "on" or "off" depending on its position. 

Kadee's Electromagnetic uncoupler has already been mentioned in Don's response. Being electric, it can obviously be turned on or off. Thus it would work as a mainline uncoupler.

Here are two non- Kadee options.

First the small, but very powerful rare-earth magnets sold at Home Depot. These have been mounted on either side of a track to act as "always on" uncouplers. They could also be stuck on one plate of a steel hinge, and installed as a positionable, "on or off" uncoupler. They are very small, very powerful, and much cheaper than any of the Kadee uncouplers.

Second DCC controlled uncoupling. There are a few high end locomotives that have this feature installed. It's also possible, and much less expensive, to add it to one, or all of your locomotives. This system uses one of the "function" outputs of a DCC decoder to operate a tiny DC motor. These motors were originally used as vibration motors in pagers. One source for them is www.allelectronics.com The motor winds in a tiny piece of sewing thread that is connected to the "air hose" of a knuckle coupler. Turning the motor on pulls the thread, which pulls the "air hose" sideways to open the coupler. 
This lets a locomotive uncouple from a car anywhere on the railroad. No magnets or uncouplers are required. The only couplers that can be set up this way are those mounted on the end(s) of a locomotive.
To operate the couplers of a car, it would have to be equipped with metal wheels with track power pickups, a DCC decoder, and two motors. Not very practical to install in every car!
There are You-tube videos of this system in action. It's pretty neat.

have fun;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## trainlove

Thanks for the tips I tried the small magnets must have been to close it pulled the car truck apart need to experiment with this


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## trainlove

Well here is a update on my layout had been making decent progress but have decided to move layout to a different room so basically starting all over again but will be more room


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## ArniLand

Hello. I want to build my first layout. I chose this scheme of the railway road. As a basis, I will use the PIKO 97906 starter kit. I plan to start with a DC control. I chose this a DC control and a switch control. There are a few questions:

1. Is the rail scheme good for the beginner who previously has not been engaged in the construction of such layouts?
2. Is the equipment correct for DC control and switch operation?
3. How is it to organize the control of two trains using DC control?


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## trainlove

I can't get to the scheme or DC control the switch controls look ok I would suggest making a new post with your questions there are a lot of knowledgeable people on this forum with a lot of experiance and then you have record of answer.


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## traction fan

*oops!*

Sorry, I accidentally posted this in the wrong thread.

Traction Fan :smilie_auslachen:


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## trainlove

I'm back again took my layout apart to move to a different room bigger, I am having trouble getting the flextrack figured out as proper radius is there a way to do this. Now remember I have been out of school a long time. I think I would like a 26 degree radius.


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## Maddog

Not degrees, but inches. A 26 inch radius curve would need about 54 inches width (radius is measured centerline to centerline of the track. You could use a string, nail, and a pencil to lay out your curve. You might want to consider easements. Or you could eyeball it like do. But, then the really only track standards I have is keeping the rails in gauge.


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## traction fan

trainlove said:


> I'm back again took my layout apart to move to a different room bigger, I am having trouble getting the flextrack figured out as proper radius is there a way to do this. Now remember I have been out of school a long time. I think I would like a 26 degree radius.


trainlove;

No offense intended, but I think you mean a 26 inch radius curve.
Twenty six degrees of curvature  would be less than one twelfth of a circle, which is 30 degrees.
What scale are you modeling? For HO-scale 26" radius would be a nice medium curve that would handle even large locomotives and cars. In N-scale, the same 26" radius curve would be a quite broad curve which would handle any N-scale equipment made.

Making a smooth radius curve is fairly easy with most brands of flex track.( Micro Engineering's rather stiff flex track requires a good deal more effort to get smoothed out into a consistent radius.)
First, get yourself a wood yardstick. Drill a hole that you can just squeeze a nail through as close to the "zero inch" end as possible. Next, drill another hole, approx. 3/16" dia. at the 26" mark .

Now insert/drive the nail in the plywood or foam layout base where you want the center of your curve to be. Then place the tip of a pencil or marker, in the 26" hole and swing the yardstick slowly around it's center/zero" nail, with the pencil/marker tracing through the 26" hole.
You have just drawn the centerline of your 26" curve. If you want to, you can drill additional holes at the inside diameter, and outside diameter, points on the yardstick the width of your track. The centerline is all that's necessary. Lay the track along the centerline, and/or between the inner, and outer, diameter lines and glue or nail down the track. That's it for laying a smooth curve with flex track.

The files below have lots of information on a variety of model railroad subjects. Look through them if you wish.

Good Luck & Have Fun;

Traction Fan 🙂


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## trainlove

Thanks to both of you sometimes we have a got to get it done so we can run trains. I was thinking inches so glad you pointed that out. Hopefully I can get at least one curve done, have a double track main line so once one is done the other will be easier with something to follow.


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## CTValleyRR

Maddog said:


> Not degrees, but inches. A 26 inch radius curve would need about 54 inches width (radius is measured centerline to centerline of the track. You could use a string, nail, and a pencil to lay out your curve. You might want to consider easements. Or you could eyeball it like do. But, then the really only track standards I have is keeping the rails in gauge.


I would argue that as much as keeping the rails in gauge (which isn't too hard if you use commercial track and don't nail it down too hard) is avoiding kinks and S curves, which will most likely become a source of derailments, with the ensuing frustration that will cause.


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## Lemonhawk

Kinks sort of creep in. Sometimes using a mirror to look at the track behind you makes the kinks show up better. Best to remove them sooner as it only gets more complicated later.


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## trainlove

thanks for the tip about kinks I am using Peco flex track so I think it is good track hope to work on layout again soon


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## MichaelE

While laying the curves it is always a good idea to solder the next piece of track to the previous piece before all of it is attached to the sub-roadbed. This will ensure a kink-free curve until it starts to straighten out into a straight stretch of track.

I will attach about two thirds of the piece of track I'm laying and then solder the next piece to the current piece and then continue to attach it to the sub-roadbed. Repeat as needed.


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## trainlove

good looking curves there I found out the hard way about soldering as you go


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## Maddog

CTValleyRR said:


> I would argue that as much as keeping the rails in gauge (which isn't too hard if you use commercial track and don't nail it down too hard) is avoiding kinks and S curves, which will most likely become a source of derailments, with the ensuing frustration that will cause.


I handlay my track and make my own stub switches, and inspite of using numerous track gauges I still have to go back and fix a few spots.


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