# screws or tacks



## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

No, I have not started my layout yet. But I am putting some
thought in it. Question is to guys with a layout. Did you use screws or tacks to secure track to layout. I guess either will work. I am leaning to screws. Some used track I bought off 
ebay have the holes enlarged a bit for I am sure was screws.
I would think screws are easier to put the right pressure on the track. I do remember someone saying put the fasteners on inside of curves. I still plan on using cork for a roadbed, for
sound deadener.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

used foam for underlay, and glued it down ..no extra pressure


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

mopac said:


> No, I have not started my layout yet. But I am putting some
> thought in it. Question is to guys with a layout. Did you use screws or tacks to secure track to layout. I guess either will work. I am leaning to screws. Some used track I bought off
> ebay have the holes enlarged a bit for I am sure was screws.
> I would think screws are easier to put the right pressure on the track. I do remember someone saying put the fasteners on inside of curves. I still plan on using cork for a roadbed, for
> sound deadener.


Depends on the track. With the original AF track, I used small screws on mine. One screw on the inside curve and two at the joints. Seems to work OK Mopac. I think that I wouldn't try glue as there aren't enough surface on the ties to get a hold without big glumps of glue. Also, the reason I used screws on my ping pong table layout was because the table surface must had been coated with something that made it very hard so that ping pong balls bounce better. It was almost impossible to drive a nail and even drilling pilot holes was tough. Good luck!


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## cole226 (Feb 8, 2013)

if you do have foam down, mark where you would need track screws. then move track and drill 1/2" hole and glue piece of 1/2" 
dowel in hole. gives good place to screw down.

easy with gargraves flex track, just slide couple ties out of the way. drill and glue dowel, move ties back and screw down.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I guess I should have said what kind of track. Original AF track.


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

BrokeCurmudgeon said:


> Depends on the track. With the original AF track, I used small screws on mine. One screw on the inside curve and two at the joints. Seems to work OK Mopac. I think that I wouldn't try glue as there aren't enough surface on the ties to get a hold without big glumps of glue. Also, the reason I used screws on my ping pong table layout was because the table surface must had been coated with something that made it very hard so that ping pong balls bounce better. It was almost impossible to drive a nail and even drilling pilot holes was tough. Good luck!


I should have said screws on the joints of straight tracks and at the transition of straight to curved. Although I don't think it really matters if the road bed is flat and even. However with one screw on the inside of the curved track you and bank, ever so slightly, the curves.


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## Matt_GNo27 (Feb 7, 2016)

We use tacks on my Dad's AF layout, but only on a minimal, as-needed bases, and only because we didn't have small enough screws on-hand. I use screws with my O-27 track and much prefer them to tacks—much quieter to install and lower risk of accidental damage.


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## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

mopac said:


> No, I have not started my layout yet. But I am putting some
> thought in it. Question is to guys with a layout. Did you use screws or tacks to secure track to layout. I guess either will work. I am leaning to screws. Some used track I bought off
> ebay have the holes enlarged a bit for I am sure was screws.
> I would think screws are easier to put the right pressure on the track. I do remember someone saying put the fasteners on inside of curves. I still plan on using cork for a roadbed, for
> sound deadener.


 If you are going with cork roadbed remember if the tacks or screws go thru the cork into the plywood you loose the sound deadening as they will transmit the noise from the track into the wood. I would think that screws would hold the track more effectively than tacks into cork. You might have to try each method and see what works better. Another thing you might try (though I've never tried) is to glue the track with clear silicone by filling the hollow ties up and then using tacks to help hold the track in place. Just a couple of ideas that might help.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

There is no right or wrong answer to this question. I prefer #16 wire brads for Gilbert track. I like the brads better than the equivalent sized nail because the heads are not visible.
I mentioned in another thread nailing the inside of curves and not fastening down turnouts but rather fasten the three adjacent tracks for better operation. If rubber roadbed is used this also eliminates the need to put shims under the turnouts. Where the curve connects to the straight track I nail both sides of the second tie of the straight track (not the one right at the track joint.) Enough nails are needed to assure there are no high or low spots in the track, especially at the joints. 
I have found that these little details allow operation without derailments or uncoupling. If I have any of those things happen I know it is always equipment out of adjustment, not the track.
If you are building a layout with track grades then vertical easements should be carefully bent into a section of straight track that transitions from level to inclined. Never let a vertical kink exist at the track joint.


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