# Laying Peco code 55 track using caulk: problems



## videobruce (Jun 15, 2011)

First time for both. Peco track & using clear acrylic caulk as an adhesive. Used the caulk a hundred times, but never for this.

Problems are;
1. The rail joiners are smaller than Atlas (which I had little trouble with 15 years ago). They look better, but are hard to slide on after the rail has been cut which is ok for contact, but what happens is due to the size and design of the joiner, there isn't enough 'lip' on each end of the joiner to act as a guide for the heel of the rail to slide into the slot unlike Atlas. This is especially true with turnouts.

2. The other problem is the 'mess' from the caulk that was spread over the roadbed. Before I just used nails to hold the track in place. No mess. Now, you apply the caulk first, after your sure the track fits, then place the track, then try to get the joiners to line up (problem #1). In doing so, you wind up getting caulk all over your hands including the rail itself.

I thought about placing the track, no caulk, lining it up, then with a putty knife lift up the track and apply the caulk, somehow spreading the caulk out with a 2nd blade.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

You answered yourself!
Preset the track then the caulking then reset the track!
Easy peazy lemon squezzy!


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## videobruce (Jun 15, 2011)

I'm not sure if that is a whole lot better. I'm still disturbing the track by lifting it up. Especially in interlockings where I have between two and six turnouts in close proximity to each other.


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## videobruce (Jun 15, 2011)

I decided to go the CA route per another modeler.

*Mercury Adhesives* sells larger tubes of CA in more than one viscosity. American made, not imported from who knows who or where and through the actual manufacture.
http://mercuryadhesives.com/products.htm#M300M

Their 2oz containers are the perfect size. No ridiculous large tube of caulk and equally large caulk gun to try and maneuver around. No placing the track, then trying to lift it up to spread caulk and realigning it again.

The cap and spout both unscrew easily and the liquid does not harden in the spout.


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## Carl (Feb 19, 2012)

I have heard of using the caulk with a small amount long the center of the track and then using heavy books to hold in place until the caulk sets.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

CA is great if you never want to move your track again!
It the super permanent way to set track!


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## videobruce (Jun 15, 2011)

Caulk worked great with the roadbed. No problems if it got messy. Not so for laying track. Huge mess and the fact you have to position the track twice was the other deal breaker. :thumbsdown:

I already had to remove a turnout because I forgot to solder feeders to it. I used a putty knife to do so. Some of the roadbed stuck to the ties, but since it was going back to where it was, some extra weight on top put it back in it's place. It is harder to get up, but, once the track is laid, that it where it stays. Not much different than what caulk would of done.


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