# Shell repair



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I have been collecting N Scale for some time and not always in the best condition. Here is a common problem, the broken nose.

I started with tooth pic and epoxy and a clip.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Spacing was the key by trial fits. The dremel was used with a sanding drum.


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## Stillakid (Jan 12, 2010)

*Nice repair*

Bob, having just started putting together the engines and cars I need for my wifes "N" layout, I've passed on some great deals because of similar damage. After seeing what you've done, I'm going to rethink my reluctance to purchase something that is mechanically sound, but needing some, "TLC!"
Will the repair take paint and match, or will you have to do some "creative" mixing?

Thanks for the posting!

Regards,
Jim


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Another patient saved. Nice work, Doc!

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Thanks guys!
This was done on a whim. After seeing it done in O Scale I thought I'd give it a try. The square tooth pic was cut in the middle that had a close dimension. The color is navy blue, but it came out lighter. I have some other ultra blues I can try, or mix.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Speaking of blue paint...

I have an MTH Amtrak engine with a scratch in the blue stripe. I'd like to touch it up, but I don't feel like trying to paint the whole line. Any clues how to match the paint?


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

For touchups, I'll buy 2 or 3 shades of a close color in small acrylic craft paint bottles (at Michaels, etc.), then mix a few squirts together to try to get the shade right on some scrap samples. Let the paint dry to see the resulting color.

I find that getting the color close is the easy part. Applying the paint with a smooth, feathered-in look is the tricky part. Thin coats, and sometimes some very fine-grid wetsanding thereafter. Never a perfect blend, but close, sometimes.

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

That's what I was afraid of. I may just leave it alone.  It's "weathered" after being on the rails for a few years.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Next ..... Chessie*






























TA DA!


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## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

Nice work TMan! :thumbsup:


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Ditto ... very nice.

What specific epoxy are you using, T?

Cheers,

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

J and B Weld 4 minute. The ultra blue acrylic to match.


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## Xnats (Dec 5, 2010)

They both look great, thanks for sharing that one T -Man. Hopefully none of us will need the tip in the near future
Now if someone who is really, really, really good with leds, electrical components and match sticks would post the *How To Mars Lights* in those bad boys it would be fantastic :worshippy:


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

T-Man said:


> J and B Weld 4 minute. The ultra blue acrylic to match.


Thanks, T-Man.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Xnats said:


> They both look great, thanks for sharing that one T -Man. Hopefully none of us will need the tip in the near future
> Now if someone who is really, really, really good with leds, electrical components and match sticks would post the *How To Mars Lights* in those bad boys it would be fantastic :worshippy:


That would sort of be simple.

Remember the HO 1.8 mm lights? use a yellow with a 1 k resistor drill a hole on top and connect to each side and MARS light non blinky.

I was given small 620 ohms with those bulbs . 

In theory it would work but I need to check the space in the shell. Each half of the motor is the contact!

Let me give it more thought. I can't make it blink at that small scale.


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## Xnats (Dec 5, 2010)

I was thinking micro leds on a board with maybe light tubes. It is beyond my skill at the time, I was thinking you would have some better ideas. The flashing could be done off the decoder it might not be proto flashing. I figure if half the cluster flashed at a time it would look ok. It is early time for work, I'll post my idea later tonight.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

T-Man said:


> Let me give it more thought. I can't make it blink at that small scale.


Any chance there are 1.8mm blinking LED's? I have 3mm and 5mm blinking ones. How about fiber optics to bring the light to the location and have one 3mm blinker?


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The MARS Light is a flasher on top isn't it?
The conventional engines are all weight with little room under the shell.


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## Xnats (Dec 5, 2010)

Yes you are right T -Man, that is my bad. I always forget there are Mars and Gyro (gyrating* I think that is spelled correct) A Mars would be pretty simple to do with just one extra light source. On dcc that is. I even forgot I saved this link from Mike's website. good vid of a mars working
John I've seen flashing 1.8 mm leds but I can not recall seeing them any smaller. I'm thinking I've seen bi module versions too, I need to look into this tonight again.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I couldn't find the flashing 1.8mm ones when I looked, but I swear I remember seeing them at one time.

The fiber pipe might be an option. I get a 200 foot spool of that off eBay a while back, it's a lifetime supply. Very easy to use, just lop off a piece and heat shrink one end to the front of an LED.

The light coming out is directional, but I think you might be able to round the display end with sandpaper to allow it to scatter the light.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Next!!!!*

This time I opted for a paper clip o set in the lower jaw.











A little off I had to set the paper clip.










I could of built it up more to lower it. A tight fit. This shows that it can be done and you have a good sturdy front for bumper cars.


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## Giants (Jun 17, 2011)

Very Good Detail Mr T,
What Type of Locomotive are they?


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Bachmann's non DCC.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Most testosterone-packing locos cringe at the thought of "being clipped" !

Nice fix, Doc!

TJ


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