# Laying cork



## Guest (Feb 20, 2011)

In theory, I should be able to draw the centerline of my track onto the table, glue down the cork following that line and then lay the track down and everything lines up.

Someone explain to me why that theory could be flawed if it is, or is that the proper way of doing things.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

If you're talking about 2-piece cork that's split down the middle, then yes ... it should be as straight forward as you suggest.

As you contour the cork pieces around curves, you'll end up with one half longer than the other half (in the reference frame of the track). That's OK ... you can stagger joints, or trim the excess. 

I used dabs of hot glue for my cork ... very quick grab / holding power, so I didn't have to go crazy trying to hold things in place on the curves. I worked in something around 18" long segments (letting the long end of the cork just flop around a bit until I was ready to tackle that.)

When you draw your reference lines, make sure target the true rail-to-rail center line.

TJ


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## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

I think you have the right idea. I traced the whole layout first with a sharpie. Then I drew a center line down the middle of that. If you are using the 2 part cork you should be fine. I used wood glue. A little slower than TJs Hotglue but you have time to work. 





















Man looking at these pictures makes me want to go back and start again. Oh well!


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Drawing the centers works great with 2 part cork.
When you come to a turn out place the turnout right on top of your strait lines and that will give you your diverging track point center to mark. If you also mark off the ends of the 2 rails at that point it will insure you come off your switch squarely and smoothly.
2" track separation on the straits and 2 3/8 in the curves, I just maintain the 2" radius change on each consecutive curve.
I use clear latex caulking for cork and rail. Slower than all the rest (sort of) but the easiest to move or relocate in the future without destruction of the cork or track.


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## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

NIMT.COM said:


> Drawing the centers works great with 2 part cork.
> When you come to a turn out place the turnout right on top of your strait lines and that will give you your diverging track point center to mark. If you also mark off the ends of the 2 rails at that point it will insure you come off your switch squarely and smoothly.
> 2" track separation on the straits and 2 3/8 in the curves, I just maintain the 2" radius change on each consecutive curve.
> I use clear latex caulking for cork and rail. Slower than all the rest (sort of) but the easiest to move or relocate in the future without destruction of the cork or track.


Excellent choice with the caulk. :thumbsup: I tried to pull up some cork I used wood glue on and it is trash now!  I will use the caulk next time. :thumbsup:


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## Guest (Feb 20, 2011)

I used watered down white glue on the first layout, both for the cork and the track, it worked very well so I'll be going that route again. The corkpulls up with a little effort and putty knife and the track just pops right off when you want it to.

I just had concerns that the track isn't made to the tolerances needed to follow the corkbed if I laid it out according to what should be as opposed to what is. I did the first layout by laying the cork and track simultaneously because I didnt have a set of trammels points for the large radiuses and I wanted to get going on it. It turned out well enough for me anyway, but the track was off center in some places.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

I use all flex no fixed pieces so it all works.
If your using fixed pieces then, yes laying it all out and marking centers is better.


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## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

NIMT.COM said:


> I use all flex no fixed pieces so it all works.
> If your using fixed pieces then, yes laying it all out and marking centers is better.


Sean, I scored 15 pcs. 36" flex last night. Hmmm............. Makes me want to re do a few things!


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## BDP (Nov 25, 2010)

I am using Alex Latex caulk with silicone. Works great. You have about 2-5 minutes to shape it and then it fastened to the plywood. Holds curved shapes so you dont have to use weights or pins. I am using the 2 piece cork also.


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## Guest (Feb 21, 2011)

See, the problem I already ran into was figuring the centerline of the track and using the stated lengths on the track packaging. I have the first oval laid based on the 19" radius sections and 5" straight sections. Apparently the 5" length stated on the package is not correct, they are more like a bit over 4-7/8" making it shorter than what the cork was laid for.


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## TonyC (Feb 9, 2011)

kretinus said:


> Apparently the 5" length stated on the package is not correct, they are more like a bit over 4-7/8" making it shorter than what the cork was laid for.


I have encountered the same exact thing. I'm using EZ-Track for my main layout and Atlas track on bridges - the EZ-Track 5" section is actually 4-15/16", the Atlas 5" is even shorter at exactly 4.9"

Whoever's bright idea it was to round these off to 5" I'm not laughing!

I did my track design and then plotted out full size sheets on 3'x6' paper to use as a template for placing the track down and that's when I discovered that in railroad terms 5" doesn't equal 5".


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## Guest (Feb 21, 2011)

This is what I meant when I asked the question originally, I'm surprised no one said anything. One side of the oval the the track is off by about 5/8", on the other it's almost an inch, my layout lines are dead on, so is the cork, so the track is apparently made by people who left their glasses at home.

Sad when Atlas is supposed to be a quality company.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

The difference in the numbers should be quite obvious, what I'm surprised at is that your surprised that model train track would allow for rail gap, Younger modelers probably have not learned of rail expansion so they build it right in to the equation. When you work up to flex track then you have to take those equations into consideration for yourself and not have to rely on the atlas track engineers to make that consideration for you.


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## Guest (Feb 21, 2011)

What I'm not surprised at is some arrogant putz being condescending on a hobby forum.

The good news is, I can just find a different forum and ignore it.

See ya.

Please cancel my account admins, I won't be back.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

My my, a little bit thin-skinned here!  I predict a short stay in your next forum too if that's all it takes to chase you away.


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## TonyC (Feb 9, 2011)

NIMT.COM said:


> ...have not learned of rail expansion so they build it right in to the equation.


What kind of steel are they using that is going to expand 0.10" in 5" within a climate-controlled home?

Common steel expands at a rate of .00000633" per degree Fahrenheit per inch of length... a 5" section should be about .0003" longer at 78F than it was at 68F.


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## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

So a gap is needed for expansion? Even inside the house where temp is pretty stable. Just curious about what you mean about the flex track Sean? I am getting ready to re do a few spots with flex. Thanks, Rick


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

kretinus,


> "arrogant putz being condescending"


I'm far from it buddy far from it!!
I had started to write along reply to this than desided I was just done with this thread!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I'm gonna step in here for a moment as a Moderator and caution people (Kretinus, I mean you) away from slinging personal jabs at each other. We should be able to discuss differing opinions on matters while keeping it civilized, please.

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

TJ, I think you're too late, he has taken his marbles and gone home.


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## Guest (Feb 22, 2011)

NIMT.COM said:


> kretinus,
> 
> I'm far from it buddy far from it!!
> I had started to write along reply to this than desided I was just done with this thread!


My apologies, but that's how what you wrote came across to me, maybe that's because you said you were surprised I didn't know the discrepancy was for rail expansion or contraction like I'm some kind of idiot.

Must be such secret knowledge that no one else mentioned it, so secret that even Atlas doesn't even appear to talk about it on their website where they of course list a 5" straight section as 5" with no mention of allowance for expansion or contraction, such as how big of a gap to leave which would also be neccessary to allow that movement.

They must have it down to such a science that they know exactly how much each individual rail will move, which would explain why out a single pack of 5" straights I get lengths from 4-7/8" to dead on 5".

So maybe you can point us to a link where Atlas has all this info for us newbies? Or am I suppose to go through all my track and starting swapping rails so I at least have the same length on the same section of track too?


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## Guest (Feb 22, 2011)

tjcruiser said:


> I'm gonna step in here for a moment as a Moderator and caution people (Kretinus, I mean you) away from slinging personal jabs at each other. We should be able to discuss differing opinions on matters while keeping it civilized, please.
> 
> TJ


I treat people as they treat me.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I guess the account was reinstated?


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## Guest (Feb 22, 2011)

According to Atlas, the 5" stated length is considered nominal but the variances should not be of the significance I'm seeing, 1.125" over 10 sections. They did not even mention anything about expansion or contraction issues which makes sense since it wouldn't be significant enough to be a design issue. I'll just cherry pick what I can use and send the defective track to Atlas for replacement, problem solved and now I have accurate information from the manufacturer.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

I'm glad you found that out.:thumbsup:


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## Robes (Jan 5, 2011)

I was at the hobby shop this week and he has a great price on flex track. I picked up two pieces, but on the next trip, I'm going to clean him out!


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## beachbum (May 1, 2010)

kretinus said:


> According to Atlas, the 5" stated length is considered nominal but the variances should not be of the significance I'm seeing, 1.125" over 10 sections.


Late to the party, but that seems really excessive. A whole inch over 10 sections? Wow.


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