# New to all this need advise



## kp24 (Jan 24, 2016)

I am brand new to this. I want to get started off the right way. I have no idea what you guys are talking about when you talk about code, gauge, etc... Also What are the best trains to use and how hard is it to wire these. What track is the best to use? What company has the best accessories? This is only the beginning. Please feel free to add any good advise you want. Thanks for your time.


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## kp24 (Jan 24, 2016)

P.S. Im thinking Im gonna go with HO size.


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## fcwilt (Sep 27, 2013)

"Code" refers to the height of the rail in 1/1000 of an inch. Code 100 = .100". Code 83 = .083".


"Gauge" is the distance between the rails. Different gauges exist in the real world.

In HO scale the gauge is 16.5 mm.


"Scale" is the ratio of the model to the real world object. HO scale is (appx) 1:87.1 or to put it another way 3.5 mm (model) = 1 foot (real world).

Yes I know mixing metric and imperial is a bit odd but that's the way it is - don't know why.


I use Peco Streamline Code 83 track whenever I can. There are some items the Peco does not yet make and for those I use Walthers or I make my own using Fast Track products.


The other questions you ask do not have simple answers.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Your choice of 'gauge' is largely depended on the amount
of space you have available for your bench work.

0 Gauge or 027 is the familar Lionel trains with 3 rail track.
It requires a fair amount of area for a typical layout

HO which means half/0...and thus requires about half
the space as 0. You can get a very workable layout in
HO in a space about 5' X 8'. 4 X 8 limits your curve radius
too much for the big locomotives.

N scale is smaller yet than HO. You could build a very
nice and somewhat complex N scale layout on a 4 X 8 
sheet of plywood. However, the very tiny size of the
locos and cars means difficulty for big fingers and
failing eyesight.

Z scale is even more tiny and usually is limited to
cocktail table type layouts.

You should consider the DCC, digital command control, systems.
The most economical is the Bachmann EZ, it is a quality
product, but limited in it's ability to fine 'tune' the decoders.
NCE, Digitrax and others are full service.
DCC is the most simple wiring and the most simple to
operate. Unless you have a large layout a pair
of wires connected at points about every 6 feet or
so around the track and that is all there is.
A controller somewhat similar to a TV remote can
have 2 or 3 trains running at the same time with individual
control of each. You can also have locos with sound, diesel
or steam, whistles, bells, chuffing, roaring.

Wiring for a DC layout, if of any size at all, will require a good
amount a complex switches and wiring. If you wanted to
run more than one train you would need an additonal
power pack.

A good model train layout has the ability to set a train running
around the layout continuously, and also a yard or two and
a number of spurs with industries that will give the operator
the ability to switch cars around and build or break trains.
It can be a fascinating 'game' with some chess like challenges.

You would have to consider what type of running you think
you would enjoy. Then you select the type of locos and cars
that would fit youi plans. Most go with a number of freight cars
for switching, but always have one or two passenger trains.
You'll read a lot about couplers...most of us have converted
to Kadee or other make realistic looking couplers...magnets under
the track will uncouple them. They couple automatically. Many
of the cars now being sold come with knuckle couplers.

Most of us HO modellers use code 100 track, but many prefer
the more realistic code 83. Again, most use Atlas or other
make of flex track that comes in 3 ft lengths that bends to
fit your layout plans. You cut it to length with a razor saw,
track cutting tool, or a Dremel cutting wheel.

Atlas also makes turnouts but many of us prefer Peco or
other brands for their quality design that eliminates
turnout caused derails.

Most any currently made loco is going to be dependable and
worth it's money. Most of us now chose a loco if we like it's
model, it's detail and it's cost. Make
is no longer a major factor in choosing. The same with cars.

Don


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Welcome to the hobby!

You've gotten some good advice above. I agree with what the previous posters have said, but I'll emphasize something: forget the word "BEST" in this hobby. There isn't any. As long as you stay away from generic train sets and the "specialty" trains you see advertised in non-train related magazines, it's hard to get really poor quality stuff. Mostly, it is a matter of detail and realism. Most times, when people say "better", they really mean "preferred by me". Even when people say "Peco turnouts are better than Atlas", this is not an absolute, but a given set of circumstances (detail is nicer, and they tend to hold up to heavy use better, but they're more expensive and sometimes harder to find).

The second bit of advice is to wrap your wallet securely in duct tape for a while. Do some research, and a lot of reading, and make some preliminary decisions before you start spending money on stuff you may decide you can't use later. Then when you have a little more knowledge under your belt, take a deep breath and go build something. Don't be afraid of making a mistake, or 20, or 100. We all do. Just do it over, and do it better the next time.


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## ripacheco (Jan 16, 2016)

Hope this helps:

I'm building a new layout mainly to be used by my 8 y/o son.
We are doing HO because of space and budget constraints. (Cheaper than N/Z and smaller than O or G)
He's got a HO Bachman Set. Not the expensive Spectrum line. But its DCC and the quality is acceptable for what an 8 y/o expects. 
Layout is being built using Code 100 Atlas flex track (cheaper than Code 83) and PECO turnouts (told by several that they are trouble free). We are abandoning the EZ-Track that came with his set (Atlas track is less expensive for the same linear length)

Our Layout is described here:
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=66786

We found lots of good advice regarding layouts at:

http://www.layoutvision.com/index.html


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

Lots of good advice so far. Perhaps the best advice I can offer is to take your time and make purchases based on some comparative decision-making. Don't rush to get any old thing running loops on an unused Ping-Pong table. You'll get sick of the loops, but maybe you can learn something about what you want out of the hobby while you are getting sick of the loops. Things like a more interesting and involved track plan. Railroads have to earn money, so what would your trains do to earn a living in your notional scale world? Move coal, produce, milled lumber, ore, casks of beer, car parts, mail....the imagination sets the limits.

Unless you can resell stuff you purchase in haste at a decent price, you'll quickly use up your discretionary hobby money on mistakes. I know you are really keen, as you make clear in your opening remarks, but try to put a lid on it until you know more. Read, ask more questions, ask clarifying questions, and then begin to spend once you are quite certain you know what you need to create that more cohesive world you dreamt of.


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## ripacheco (Jan 16, 2016)

Question: After the bench is built. Should I put a 1/4 Ply and FOAM over? ... can I skip the ply and just put 2" FOAM over?

(Fellow at the LHS insisted I needed 1/2 " Ply over the bench. otherwise things would warp)


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

The fellow at your LHS either doesn't know what he's talking about or owns stock in a lumber company.

Extruded foam insulating board is dimensionally stable and very rigid. Properly supported, it does not sag or bow. My last two layouts were built of 2" foamboard supported by L-girder joists on 18" centers. It can support my full weight. I can dent the foam, but not bend or break it.

The only reason you might want a plywood base is to have something to screw into when mounting things like switch machines.

Warping is caused by untreated lumber absorbing moisture from the air, or drying out from a lack of it. Always seal your lumber. Paint, shellac, or polyurethane all work well for that.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

Two-inch foam is very rigid, but it can be gouged and dented. Sometimes, such as when forming terrain, that quality is good. When it comes to having clean edges to the foam board, not so good. So, protect the edges by either sinking the board into a box frame of suitable depth and materials, or use a fascia of some kind.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Wow, lots of good advice to ponder there. The only thing I'd add is to endorse the use of Peco points and track. Their code 83 is designed specifically for the US market while their codes100 & 75 is for the British OO scale. Although their turnouts are a bit naff Bachmann's current locos and stock are excellent despite the low price and the Sound Value range offers a cost effective route into DCC sound. Also consider their DCC controller is you don't mind limited functionality. All the systems work differently so pick the one which looks easiest to programme and operate, YouTube videos are useful here: https://youtu.be/QzRRCKpTjL4


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