# a purchase that may never come along again



## midlifekrisiz (Jan 29, 2013)

I am a craigs list junky i must admit.

I think I will never find a deal such as this one again AND this will keep me busy for quite some time.

163 pieces in total (advertised as 150 pieces) for $100 (each of the stacks are 5 high)



















manual uncoupler










1 l/h and 1 r/h manual switches (1 or 2 train operation switch)










2 short pieces










and up for trade if someone has a need for these as I am wanting to stick to the old track for my trains.

8 curves 1 straight and 1 straight w/power uncoupler 










there are some of the tracks that are quite rusty and a couple that have pretty good bends in them so they are going to be sacrificed for a tie pile and rail rack .....for the cost of this box of track I think i can afford to do this.


----------



## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Nice track lot and I'm sure you will stay busy for some time cleaning and repairing some that. One word for you, don't throw anything away, not even the bent rails or deformed ties. The ties can be straightened and reused in most cases. The rails can be used for a realistic junk pile scene on the layout. Or in some cases, the rails can be cut to utilize the straight part for shorter, odd lengths. Don't forget the insulating paper on each side of the ties to prevent shorting. And another thing, it is not necessary to clean the entire rail, only the top conducts the electricity. The rest of the rail will look more authentic if left with its rusty coat. Have fun.


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Nice Craigslist score!


----------



## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Here's a thread I posted some time ago that I felt was a great score on Craig's List...

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=12312

I also got a brand new #49839 Lionel Remake of the #793 Union Station mint condition in original box for $50.00 from a Craig's List ad.

So obviously there are some good buys out there if you take a look every so often.


----------



## midlifekrisiz (Jan 29, 2013)

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> Here's a thread I posted some time ago that I felt was a great score on Craig's List...
> 
> http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=12312
> 
> ...


i noticed that I now have the same switches that you do .....they are power? I don't see any place to hook wires to (unless I am blind) yet there is wireing underneath ....


----------



## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Your switches are manual. The wiring underneath conducts electricity to each rail so there are no dead spots in the switch.


----------



## midlifekrisiz (Jan 29, 2013)

flyernut said:


> Your switches are manual. The wiring underneath conducts electricity to each rail so there are no dead spots in the switch.


arggg (face palm) pay attention george lol...thanks


----------



## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

midlifekrisiz said:


> arggg (face palm) pay attention george lol...thanks


Not a problem buddy. You can get a nice set of remote switches for $25-$50 bucks, depending on condition and where you're located.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

That is a lot of stuff for the price. :thumbsup:


----------



## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

The remote switches will always have four electrical connections on the curved side of the base plate -- sometimes threaded posts with thumbscrews and the older ones with fahnestock clips. The manual ones, as you now know, will have only holes where these connections normally belong. Like Flynut stated, the wires underneath only conduct electricity across the dead areas to power the next rail in the switch.


----------



## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Should you ever decide to begin shopping for remote controlled switches, you need to realize there are two types of controllers for them depending on the production time period. They both come with two-lever lighted controls, each lever controlling one switch. However the earlier ones have no middle or "neutral" position where the later type has this feature. The earlier ones switch between the straight and curved position and that is it. The later style will switch from the straight to neutral without switching the track until you push it all the way to make the final contact with the curved position, then it will switch. When you releaese the pressure on the lever, it kind of sits in neutral until you switch it back. The earlier type of controller (2-position without neutral) will not work for the newer style switches because it will allow continuous power to the electrical coil in the switch motor and eventually burn it out. Ironicallty though, the newer style controller will work with the older style switch -- go figure. Hope that is clear to you???


----------



## midlifekrisiz (Jan 29, 2013)

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> Hope that is clear to you???


as clear as the mud i atv in lol ...I am sure that I will figure it out as I go though. :laugh:


----------

