# Shelf Layout



## trains galore

Hi all, haven't been on here in ages but recently got time to do a bit more stuff with my train layout (oo scale). Still alot of jobs to do on it, most of the wiring done (point motors and feeder wires), but still need to wire in some switches and possibly replace my controller, also lots of scenery work needs doing. progress has been slow (2 yrs) because I keep making mistakes and learning the hard way when it comes to track laying and scenery

Anyhow, here are some pictures of it, I would love to hear any suggestions/improvements I could make as I am still pretty new to this kind of stuff!


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## trains galore

Any suggestions/improvements at all


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## sstlaure

Any overall pictures? On the ballast - you only have it between the tracks - ballast is used to hold the ties in-place. It should fill the voids between ties and be piled up along the outside edges as well. 

There are numerous tutorials on this on here if you're interested.

Everything takes time and it's never done


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## DT&I

looks fine to me 
that's the beauty of this hobby.........build what makes you happy


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## DonR

Interesting to see that Peter Witt Streetcar. Now we need a little
run of overhead wire to power it.

I would simply the turnout throwing. Wire them so that both diverging
points are moved by one button. You can do that on both turnout
sets. (I am guessing the blue lines seen on the control panel box
represent your layout).

What trains do you run on it?

Don


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## trains galore

Hi everyone, thanks for the replies!
I am kind of building a freelance layout, but usually run american stuff,(Baldwin shark) sometimes an Ivatt 2mt (trains must be teleporting...)
Now with the ballast it is supposed to be over the sleepers, but I was a bit worried about it causing problems with running as I'm not great at laying ballast yet. It would look alot better with it though, so I might consider that once I improve my modelling.
Now with the turnouts, I want to upgrade the control panel to something betterhwell:, but at the moment the green lines show the point configuration, and the blue switches control the 5 points (4 in the middle and one at the end which I have yet to install.) Are you suggesting that rather control each turnout individually I could simplify operation by connecting more than one turnout to a switch? Sounds like a better idea in terms of operation, would I need to connect the points that face each other to a single switch?
The two silver switches on the green lines are just for the signals, nothing to do with the points.
Still alot to do, and always will be as a layout is never really finished
Here is a video of it running http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXPGHLAu6Jc
Thanks for all the help and ideas, much appreciated!


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## trains galore

Some more videos of the layout running, going to get a better controller and bought the stuff I need to wire up the blocks
Here it is running:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shlGOMN7Y28
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlZcWmUMk3w
Not too sure about buying a 2nd hand controller, but $100 for a dual controller isn't bad and if it works good I'll take a chance


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## trains galore

Hi all, just some more pictures of progress on my layout
Bought a double channel controller, works good so now I can run two trains at once
Also added a concrete factory and installed a light up vehicle I bought off ebay, very bright leds
Still can't get the points to work, they switch fine but I am having alot of trouble trying to make the track fit between the points without gaps that cause the train to derail, any ideas on how to do this? I just can't get the perfect length to fit because you have to slide the joiners over it
Anyway, hope you like it!


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## dlbraly

Looks like you are having fun.
Thanks for sharing photos


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## DonR

trains galore said:


> Hi everyone, thanks for the replies!
> I want to upgrade the control panel to something betterhwell:, but at the moment the green lines show the point configuration, and the blue switches control the 5 points (4 in the middle and one at the end which I have yet to install.) Are you suggesting that rather control each turnout individually I could simplify operation by connecting more than one turnout to a switch? Sounds like a better idea in terms of operation, would I need to connect the points that face each other to a single switch?
> 
> Yes, that's exactly the idea. Connect the 'straight thru' of both turnouts
> to the same button (or switch if you are using a Tortoise). Connect the
> facing points together also. That way, one push or switch flip would throw both turnouts.
> 
> Don


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## trains galore

Ok so the two straight throughs of each facing point switch at the same time. Thanks, might have to try that out! Only problem I'm having is that I cannot get the pieces of tracks to fit with the joiners in between the points (these allow you to change tracks) I'm thinking maybe I need to remove more plastic on the rails so I can place the rail and then slide on the joiner from underneath right?
Thanks for the help!


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## wingnut163

trains galore said:


> Ok so the two straight throughs of each facing point switch at the same time. Thanks, might have to try that out! Only problem I'm having is that I cannot get the pieces of tracks to fit with the joiners in between the points (these allow you to change tracks) I'm thinking maybe I need to remove more plastic on the rails so I can place the rail and then slide on the joiner from underneath right?
> Thanks for the help!


put the joiners on put the track down, slip the ties that you removed under the track.


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## trains galore

Ok thanks!
From the sound of it what I need to do is push the joiners on and THEN place the track and carefully slide them back out


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## wingnut163

right you are.


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## trains galore

Thanks for the advice!
Only problem is that the joiners are isolated (plastic) ones. I'll have to cut the tab that sticks out so that they will slide in all the way.
But that should be fine!
Thanks!


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## wingnut163

do not use the insulated joiners to join your track.

not firm enough. get the metal joiners.

the drops do not have to be soldered to the joiners.


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## trains galore

Thanks for the reply!
Unfortunately I have to use them because I need them for my particular track configuration, but I agree they are pretty dodgy 
I'll work something out!


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## Big Ed

Note to all.
I know I sound like a broken record. hwell:
But seeing a picture instead of having to go back and forth clicking is so much easier to view. :smokin:

Trains, your edit quote, "( I figured out how to upload")

After you upload go back to the post reply box after you upload and click the paper clip a second time then click insert all, or if you only have one picture click on the attachment. It will then show up as a picture in the thread instead of a clickable link.

Any problems ask me.


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## DonR

If the plastic insulated joiners are causing your
track geometry to go awry, use the metal
joiners instead, and then cut a gap in your rails using razor saw
or Dremel cutting wheel. 

Deleting that plastic separator could defeat the
intended insulation.

Don


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## trains galore

Hi again
Thanks big ed for the advice, had no idea I'll try it as links are getting annoying. Is there any way to do this with the previous posts as I can't seem to edit them?

Now the main problem i'm having is that when i just cut the track it goes uneven and I get derailments, I think what I need to do is work out how to slide the joiners all the way back, place my track and them bring them back. I did try just cutting the track but it wasn't straight and so I had problems. Then I tried to make my piece of track short enough to fit between the joiners, but am left with a gap in between the track that causes derailment.
So I need to work out how to get these plastic joiners to slide all the way back:stroke:


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## trains galore

Ok well I got the track sorted now it's working good I ended up giving up on the joiners on one side of the track and simply cutting both rails so there is a gap on each side of the rail (I had to isolate a whole piece of rail, both sides, unusual I know but it's the only way to make it work without short circuits
But as always, NEW PROBLEM
For some reason on particular point I have this problem where i have set it to go straight through, and the engines ALWAYS go through fine, but the light coaches back wheels follow the turning path resulting in a very annoying derailment. HOWEVER if I push the coach down it rolls through perfect, so I'm thinking this is to do with weight
Could be the point too though, any advice on how to clean them? I pondered over whether some stray ballast possibly got between the point blades or something?
Anyway, here are some pics of the new controller I picked up and my Baldwin Shark A and B unit


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## trains galore

Still can't work it out!
For some reason on particular point I have this problem where i have set it to go straight through, and the engines ALWAYS go through fine, but the light coaches back wheels follow the turning path resulting in a very annoying derailment. HOWEVER if I push the coach down it rolls through perfect, so I'm thinking this is to do with weight
Could be the point too though, any advice on how to clean them? I pondered over whether some stray ballast possibly got between the point blades or something?
I'll put up some pics of the offending turnout, it must be something with it because the others work perfect.
Any answers appreciated
(Also these are atlas points with the built in motor


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## DT&I

yeh, weight can make a big difference. I remember as a kid taping pennys to some cars to keep them from derailing.
just get a paint brush (normal sized one, not a hobby one) and clean the turnout lightly. that should answer the possibility of something jamming it up.
Nice sharknose by the way


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## DonR

Here's the way to find out what's derailing your cars.

Get a powerful light. I use a small cheapo multi LED. Get
down on the level and close to the problem turnout. Aim the light
at the car wheels as they go thru the turnout at the
slowest speed your loco will go. Be ready to stop the
train. You will see one of the wheels lift off it's rail. Stop.

Where is the wheel when it lifts? What is there to cause that?
Look at the other wheel on truck. 

Repeat over and over until you see what the problem is.
Often one rail is higher or lower than the other. Adjust.

By the way. Do your cars have truck mounted couplers?
They often are the reason for derailments. Move the couplers
to body mount and solve the problem. (unless you have very
tight curves).

Don


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## trains galore

Hi again
Thanks for the suggestions, I can solve the problem with weights possibly but I really think this is something wrong with my point as none of the others have this problem. It's also a rather unusual derailment in the sense that the wheels don't actually come off the track, rather the back wheels of the carriage following the turning path of the point.
The cars I'm using do have body mounted couplers, the old ones I have with truck mounted are pretty bad

Thank you for the suggestion with the led light, I'll have a look at it when I get time
I will clean the point first as I never had this issue before and also I have been removing some ballast near it.
Thanks!


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## trains galore

Just some pictures of the lights I installed today, those tiny wires sure are a pain to solder







Will investigate the track soon


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## DonR

trains galore said:


> Just some pictures of the lights I installed today, those tiny wires sure are a pain to solder
> Will investigate the track soon


Some can be. Especially with old shaky hands. I'm working with the little 2mm incandescent bulbs. They come with stranded (2 strands) wires. I've found
it easier to burn the insulation off with the soldering iron then
tin the wires and when connecting them, take a dab of solder
to the joint on the tip of the iron. Plenty of flux also.

Don


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## trains galore

Installed switches controlling the main circuits 12v and 3v so I can turn off the circuits when neccessary will put up some more pics soon
Now having problems with the LM317 voltage regulators I'm using to power the lights, they work fine but get EXTREMELY hot and I will have to do something about it sometime. I disconnected the output and it stays cooled, and measured 1.3 A current on the 12v circuit which has 5 lamp posts, 3 12v MES building lights, a small light up car and a flashing tower those MES lamps must draw a fair bit of current, still 1.3 a seems a bit much.
The 3v one powers the signals and gets equally hot, but it only powers some leds, I haven't checked how much current it's pulling.
I think I'll upgrade the heatsinks and maybe build something more powerful, maybe even include a pc fan and some nice proper heatsinks instead of these tiny hunks of metal


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## trains galore

Well the bad news... a building that must have moved while I was cleaning the track sent my favourite train toppling off the shelf and onto the floor a good metre or so below
I couldn't catch it as the control panel where I was was on the other side of the room
I walked over expecting to find it in pieces but there it was without a scratch can't believe it. I had been thinking about putting on a steam train now had THAT come crashing down it would have come of second best so lucky i didn't

I managed to get the point sorted, it turned out the blade wasn't clicking in all the way so I cleaned it and gave it a poke and works great now, thanks for the advice Iv'e also started work on a new station at the end and also done a bit of labelling for my control panel, looks awful but I just need it to work until I come up with something better
Here are some pictures, thanks!


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## trains galore

Working on the track at the end, starting to get the freight loading stage and the station in place shame about door as it can't go all the way around the room. Need to get an auto reverse or a turntable...
Also going to install a local control panel nearby so I'm not confined to the other side of room (where the main panel is at the moment)
Anyone know a good auto reverse? I've heard about digitrax and you can get ones that have a timer and ones that use an optical sensor IR etc. I could make one using the interval timer circuit I have around somewhere, but the optical sensor sounds like a better option to me since it will reverse when it actually gets to the end of the track independant of what speed I'm running at
Thanks!


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## Mr.Buchholz

Love those lamps between the tracks. I would be interested to know how you laid out the wiring for that.

-J.


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## trains galore

Hi Mr.Buchholz
What I did for the street lamps was just run figure 8 cable from my power supply (a car charger 12v) and each place there was a lamp I cut it, connected the lamp and the second piece of wire. I found figure 8 wire (also called double strand as it has two cores) was best for this.
Basically all the lights are wired in paralell
However you probably need a seperate supply just for lights as otherwise they could affect the operation of the trains if you have too many.
Also terminal blocks are great for wiring up stuff as you can make a good connection quickly.
Thanks!


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## trains galore

Just started building an auto reverse circuit with a 555 timer kit I had lying around from a previous project.
Going to have a diode to stop the train at one end of the track and a microswitch connected to the trigger so when it hits it will trip the timer and activate the relay.
Haven't gotten anywiring started yet, but here is the control panel (just an emergency cut off switch in case a train were to derail, and a led to show the status of the timer)


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## T-Man

Why do you need a switch? The timer has a charge and discharge cycle. It will switch the relay for each cycle.


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## trains galore

Hi T-man
I put a switch there so that if something goes wrong (the train derails etc) I can quickly disconnect power to the track as my train controller is on the other side of the room
I just finished the panel, the timer is the little circuit board and switches the big cradle relay. Just tested and works perfect just needs to be installed now. going to power the whole thing off 9v as that is what the timer needs, the 12v relay still works fine with 9v so I'll take a chance
Here it is!


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## trains galore

Got the panel partly installed
Still need to connect the controller and track feed and the microswitch.
Have installed a dpdt on the main panel to switch the controller either straight to the tracks or to the auto reverse. Here are some pics of it















Let me know what you think


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## trains galore

*Auto reverse system*

Well 40 degrees over here todayhwell: so had to stay in which of course meant... trains
Finished wiring up the reverse panel and works perfect. Also added a diode to the track to stop the train and allow it only to move in one direction (so it stops and when the timer drops out it will reverse) looks awful but at least it works

Only thing left is to somehow disguise the microswitch that the train will hit at the end of the track... any ideas would be greatly appreciated
here are some pictures of it...


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## DonR

Is the long flat 'bar' on the right side the trip?

If so, looks like you could mount the switch under
your layout and cut the trip at a length that is
suitable for the car to hit it.

Don


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## trains galore

The long flat bar is indeed the trip
I attempted to mount it up through a hole however the problem is that it kept on hitting the kadee couplers and causing a derailment However before I try anything else, I might see if I could attach something to it like a bit of popsicle stick in the hope I might be able to get it to spread the force out more evenly
Otherwise I will mount it higher up so it touches the back of the train/wagon, but it will mean I can only run certain stock so I hope I can do it this way instead.
Also had a look at maybe putting some reed switches (glass tube type) on the track, however I don't have any at the moment and don't want to have to go and buy them also you need a magnet under the last car of the train to activate it, but it would work very well
Also thought about an ldr controlled relay, but don't have a kit so I'd have to scratchbuild it with veroboard. 

They do have a VOX (sound activated relay) which sounds awesome, but I would have to glue the mic into the baseboard so it would detect the vibration of the incoming train, and I might get nuisance trips from other sounds nearby (though if caked with foam, that mic wouldn't hear a thing other than the train above it

I do have a reed switch from an alarm system, now if only I could open the little white case and remove it
Thanks for all the replies, if you have ANY ideas as of how I might be able to detect the train, let me know!


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## trains galore

Well I got it running
Thanks for the suggestion of mounting it under the baseboard, I ended up gluing a little piece of popsicle stick to the metal tab so it didn't derail the train (popsicle sticks have become prototypical on this layout:laugh:
Ocassionally the timer gets silly and starts randomly clickingbut it never affects operation and usually only does it if I touch the relay, might need a filter/capacitor or something. That said it works every time sohwell:
Here is the picture of what I've done. Whole thing cost nothing as I had lots of electronics around, but wouldn't be expensive to build, maybe 20- 30 dollars
On to the scenery next...


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## trains galore

Added a police car today with flashing lights, I used a led flashing kit which initially refused to work and then for some strange reason came to life anyway it works now
I couldn't get my camera to take a picture as it filtered out the lights, so I made a video, it's not great quality unfortunately so sorry about that (rubbish camera)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XieUNtqFUUY


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## trains galore

Hi again
Just an update been making a new power set up for all the lights on my layout, go tired of being restricted by the lm317 regulators 1.5 A (adds up quickly when you have lights, sounds etc)
So here is what I've done, I'm using a computer power supply (I believe there was a thread on here about it a while back) so I'm in the process of swapping the power supplies over.
I decided to make a distribution panel for it, 3 switches for individual circuits, a main power switch to start the power supply, and the 3 holes are for fuse holders (18a, will want a fuse as if something goes wrong BOOM!)
Anyone know a good guide for choosing the fuses? the biggest circuit (12v) has about 1.3A on it so how much leeway should I have for the fuse, maybe a 2a fuse?
All replies appreciated!
Here is the panel:


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## trains galore

*Finished the fuse panel*

Well the panel is done now so I'll install it soon, here it is, the fuse holders have got 2A fuses in them for now


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## trains galore

Well haven't done much in a while but today I extended the base board out (white part is the extension)
Any ideas on what i could do with the space? I'm thinking maybe a bigger station and some shops etc
I haven't decided on anything yet though so any ideas?
Here is the space:


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## trains galore

Ok well I need some opinions here:stroke:
I am kind of getting sick of having to watch the train get to the end of the line and then reverse, I really want to run trains just round and round
Problem is, there is a door and closet and I can't block either off permanently
I'm thinking about a removable board, no scenery just the track, that i can lift out or something, but I haven't got a clue of how to do it
Any ideas guys?
Here is the current layout and below is what I want to do...


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## golfermd

Very cool police car! :thumbsup:


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## DonR

There are several threads on the Forum describing
various methods of spanning an opening in a layout.

Some hinge a section for a lift up, and others
for a drop down.

Alignment pegs assure that the rails will meet correctly
for smooth train operations.

But you must make an automatic stop section on either
side of the opening so that a train does not do an ungraceful
swan dive to the floor. This can be done by creating an
isolated track section either side of the opening. It is powered thru
either micro switches, or a simple brass plate to brass plate
contact on the bridge and the table.

Don


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## trains galore

I have an auto reverse on the far end near the door, it has a diode on the track so even when I'm running normal it won't go past the diode (no power) so if I have a bypass switch I can let the train cross if the extension is up

The problem is I don't know what to use for the hinged baseboard, I have some MDF but it's so heavy I want something light if I have to move it around.


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## DonR

The material and weight of your hinged 'bridge' would
depend on the length of the span. If no more than
two or 3 feet, a 1/4" or so plywood with 2X2 stringers
should be sufficient. The longer spans are going to
need rigidity and thus weight.


Don


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## trains galore

Thanks DonR
I haven't fully planned out what I need to do for the door yet, but i'm thinking I'd need the same thickness of wood, and then to make some system so that the layout board just lifts out or folds down:stroke:

For now I've been finishing the station extension, here it is at the moment
I used a little bit of black cotton for the powerline, don't worry it doesn't carry actual electricity
Again the wiring for the lamps was a pain, but I've done them in paralell. They are rated for 12v, I run them at 5v though since they will last longer


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## trains galore

*Last run of the elevated line*

Ok, basically the elevated line wasn't strong enough to hold a decent train, the track wasn't level etc so today i ripped it down I'm going to be replacing it with a longer, wider board so i can run more trains, kind of multi level I guess

Here is where it is at the moment...
Also observe the world's finest wiring mess


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## Magic

And I though my wiring was bad. 
That's one reason I've decided to leave the lights till last, I've had all the wiring mess I care to deal with for now.

Looks like you're making progress and your plan was as good as mine was. 

No plan Magic


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## Big Ed

Magic said:


> And I though my wiring was bad.
> That's one reason I've decided to leave the lights till last, I've had all the wiring mess I care to deal with for now.


I figured out a way to get more from the outlet. 
Feel free to use my ideals.


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## Fire21

big ed said:


> I figured out a way to get more from the outlet.
> Feel free to use my ideals.
> 
> View attachment 35097


I really do hope you're kidding! As a firefighter, that scares the bejeebies outa me!!


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## DonR

big ed said:


> I figured out a way to get more from the outlet.
> Feel free to use my ideals.
> 
> View attachment 35097


Ed

Do you have the Fire Department on Speed Dial?

Don


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## Zero Cool

big ed said:


> I figured out a way to get more from the outlet.
> Feel free to use my ideals.
> 
> View attachment 35097


:hah:Someone watched Christmas Vacation one too many times.:laugh:


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## trains galore

Nothing wrong with reinventing the power outlet, just imagine, you could make sculptures is you bought enough of those two way adaptors

Anyway The wiring is under the control panel so no one can see it, and it all works perfect, but when i make my new control panel I'm going to sort it out The control desk is the worst because all the wires come back to it

Next step though is to build this tunnel, I'm going to need plenty of dowel supports or I could have a real disaster on my hands


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## Magic

big ed said:


> I figured out a way to get more from the outlet.
> Feel free to use my ideals.
> 
> View attachment 35097


I'm feeling much better now. 

Magic


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## Big Ed

trains galore said:


> Hi again
> Thanks big ed for the advice, had no idea I'll try it as links are getting annoying. Is there any way to do this with the previous posts as I can't seem to edit them?




We only have a certain amount of time to edit.:thumbsdown:
A mod might be able to fix the linked pictures........maybe, if they want.
I know they can, if they will is a different story.
Maybe if you ask real nice.:smokin:


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## trains galore

Started building the tunnel


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## trains galore

*More work on the extension*

Didn't like the original pillars so have redone them different, also hooked up a light in the shed.

The main problem at the moment is working out how to do the wiring out of sight. I thought maybe if I get some really thick cardboard with the holes in the side I could run the cables through it. 
I'll start the platform soon, going to put some lights up on it
Here is where it is at the moment


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## Big Ed

Fire21 said:


> I really do hope you're kidding! As a firefighter, that scares the bejeebies outa me!!


I try to save money I do most of my wiring, isn't that what they make them plugs for? I think I could add a few more.

My Gas heaters custom made electric box,










I added a few more wires to the main box since this picture. Though the dam cover won't fit on!:dunno:
Why don't they make larger junction boxes?










I made my own up. 















Your all welcome to come over and have a beer in my pool anytime.
I put in my own custom entertainment center in the middle, I got to add a mount for the wide screen yet. 
We could have a nice barbecue.












Sorry trains galore, I could not resist.
I will refrain from adding anymore of my custom wiring.


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## trains galore

I love that custom wired pool! does it have a 3 phase power socket in there as well
And who needs covers on electrical panels, just don't touch it and you'll be fine

Back on topic... I've started the platform so I'll put up some pics tonight. And I WILL rewire the control panel at some point but given it's only 12v it's not going to kill anyone (though 25 a supply short might burn some things up, but they are all fuse

Happy modelling


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## Magic

Trains, one thing you might consider is to use foam board on the upper level and you could than cut groves into the foam and run your wiring there, I've got some it done that way and works out pretty good. 

Magic


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## trains galore

Good idea Magic
What would I lay the track on though, I can't just put the track pins into foam, maybe glue

Here is the station platform I'm building


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## Magic

You have to use the extruded insulation type foam board not Styrofoam.
Owens Corning or something like that.

What I do is get the foam board down and than lay out your track to see how it will have to go and mark the foam along the center line. Than I pull up the track and lay cork roadbed using the center line, I hold down the roadbed with track nails. Put the nails in the angle on the edge of the roadbed at the same angle, 45°. Nail along the center at 90°. Done this way the roadbed isn't going anyplace but if you need to change things it's easy to pull up the roadbed. Once everything is good you can glue if you want to.

To lay the track I use standard office staples to hold things in place, a staple will just fit over two ties, put them up against the outside of the rail and over two ties, one on each side. This way you can run trains to check everything out. If you have to change something the staples are easy to find and remove. This is really handy for laying flex track.

Once all is good use track nails to secure the track and remove the staples. If you have to change anything and have used the holes in the track too many times they don't hold too good, that's why I use the staples. 

With my "no plan" plan I have relaid every foot more than once. I figured out a good way to do it. 

Magic


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## trains galore

Ok thanks
I wired up the station platform lights and painted it
Some pics:


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## golfermd

Yikes on the wiring.


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## trains galore

Mine or big ed's
My favourite one is the pool


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## trains galore

*update on multi level*

Got the baseboard painted today, also wired up the platform lights to the 5v supply.
I'm going to screw lengths of cardboard along the bottom so the wiring will be inside the cavity and not hanging down (which is ugly and could get caught on a train)
I'm running power cords up the pillars with screw terminals since they do have to be removable.

How can I get the station platform to sit flat nicely? My less than perfect construction methods mean it isn't perfectly flat, maybe I can fill it in with glue and paint over it

Anyway, here is where I am at the moment with it


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## Big Ed

Is a track going to sit by it?

Cover up the bottom with some ballast along the base?
Or some weeds?


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## trains galore

Haven't been on in a while, here is where I'm up to
I'm attempting to wire it all up, I still need to wire in the large relay, the timer and a few other things but I did get the track wiring done and working
Much easier to work on than the rest of the layout as I can just put the module on the work bench to wire it.

The control panel is awful, but hopefully only temporary for now until I make something better
Wired it up with common rail, I'm switching power between the top rail and the future second rail (that is when I find my insulated rail joiners) seems to work fine, for now anyway

Next step is to wire the timer for the auto reverse and then start planning the bridge (next 
module)


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## trains galore

Went and bought some track joiners, a bridge and a new turnout motor
They didn't have any atlas point motors, so I bought a hornby one and got it to fit with a wire link.
Finished with laying the track, have wired the dpdt switch so the track power and points switch with one switch, then you push the switch to fire the point motor
Got some light up cars, thinking about maybe putting them near the track, haven't decided yet, any ideas?


----------



## apoc444

the last pic is the hornby one? building included?


----------



## trains galore

Yes it is a Hornby Point motor, but I wanted to surface mount it so I bought the shed enclosure seperately. It is designed to just click onto a hornby turnout but I had an old atlas one so I just had to get a piece of wire to connect them


----------



## apoc444

very nice


----------



## trains galore

Got a bit more wiring done today, the main wiring is in including the relay which when activated will switch the polarity of the track
Going to be doing the timer seperately, don't want to put it under the tunnel as it would be too hard to access.
Also keep breaking those damn lamp posts they are so delicate luckily superglue fixes them quickly
Anyway next step is to connect everything back up to the main power supply and run a new circuit off the CDU for the point motor


----------



## trains galore

Got the second level up and wired
Also got a new hornby bridge, the grey one is an old Tyco one.
Trying line them up, they will connect to another station eventually
Shame I can't somehow connect the upper and lower lines


----------



## trains galore

Thinking about replacing the micro switches with LDR relays, the micro switches some time cause the train to derail
Found this circuit, not as accurate as the more complex ones but it should do the job.
I will need to install some lights above the ldr's for night running obviously or it won't work.
These sensor circuits will connect back to the timer which switches the track relays
Went and bought the wrong track, it's code 75 and it doesn't work with my code 100
Oh well, I'll just have to get some more:laugh:
Also filled in the gaps with my bridge base


----------



## trains galore

*Lights!*

Installed two more lamp posts today, on the bridge this time
Thing is, I forgot about how there is a cavity between the baseboard and where the bridge moulding finishes (I put it up on blocks) which meant I had to try to get the figure 8 cable through two holes without being able to see what I was doing
In the end I cheated and got a straw, made poking it through WAY easier!
Here they are!


----------



## Big Ed

Hey Trains, your pictures would sure look better if you straighten up the fish poster.

Better yet move it to the other side of the room. 
Unless your hiding a big hole behind it.


----------



## joed2323

Lol, unreal uncle ed


----------



## Big Ed

joed2323 said:


> Lol, unreal uncle ed


Well I find myself looking at the fish more than the trains.


----------



## trains galore

I need to re do the track curves as they are too tight again
I'm going to use the non flexible curved pieces to replace them.
What is the best way to put the new piece in once the old one has been removed?
Just line it up with the new piece, cut it and attempt to slide it in?


----------



## Magic

Having relayed several miles of track, the way I do it is to remove all the necessary flex track and put your sectional track where it needs to be. Adjust the flex to transition to the sectional track. Larger radius curves may change the positing of the straight tracks as well. 

If you just need to smooth out the radius with out going too much bigger maybe you can use the sectional track as a template and just adjust the flex track.

Changes like this are the reason I don't glue my track but use T50 staples instead until I sure nothing needs to change,

Magic


----------



## trains galore

*Bridge*

Thanks for the advice Magic 
I'll probably do it last, at the moment I'm building the opposite end of the layout, considering an airport too:laugh:

Anyway, I have installed the track over the bridges now, only problem is the bridge is plastic, is it ok to glue down the track with liquid nails etc? 

Next step is to build the next section (the airport) so I'll post up a picture of my plan soon
And of course I'll have to the control panel but taht will put the layout out of operation for some time so I'm avoiding it

Here is where I'm up to:


----------



## Big Ed

And the fish poster is fixed. :thumbsup:

How come you don't put the L shelf bracket underneath instead of on the top? :smokin:


----------



## amer/flyer

Sound like me


----------



## trains galore

Mainly because it would have been impossible to try to get the drill in there, also it would get in the way of the track below


----------



## trains galore

*Progress?*

Well today I got all my curtains up, they were stuck on with adhesive before but they kept falling down so I got some drawing pins
They hide possibly the worst wiring ever, I can't be bothered redoing it so I'll just pretend it isn't there:cheeky4: Amazingly it all works fine and I have yet to have a fault with it, though I'll redo the control panel soon. 
Also biged I did move that fish poster, I haven't memorised all the fish yet so yeah:laugh:[


----------



## Big Ed

I like the fish poster, I did not like where you had it before you moved it.
AND IT WAS CROOKED! 

How about moving the red control panel when you redo them?
It is blocking your RR view, maybe it would work down by the other one?
But it is there to hide the wiring huh? 
You do have a crap load of wiring. 
It is easier to hide wiring on a table layout, then what your building.:smokin:


----------



## trains galore

Yeah I don't like how the red panels blocks the view, I want to move it but I ended up putting it there because I didn't want run any more wiring back to the main panel:laugh:
It is kind of easier to hide wires ona table layout since you can drill through the beams and run the wiring through it.
The wiring under the elevated section actually isn't as bad, The control panel doesn't really hide it anyway I put cable clips and lengths of cardboard over it to stop it from hanging.
Should have gone DCC hey?


----------



## trains galore

Haven't updated this in little while
I have started the last part of the multi level train line, built the baseboard and have started painting it and putting the bridge in
Using pop sticks to make a wall to conceal the wiring


----------



## Big Ed

You going to add some water under the bridge before you set it permanent?
Dry river bed maybe?


----------



## amer/flyer

Sounds like me


----------



## trains galore

I'd love to make a little river under the bridge, but no idea what to use for the water
I've heard about a pour in liquid you can use that sets in, what would you guys use?


----------



## amer/flyer

Don't know, I have heard of something that has a shiny finish to make it look like water.


----------



## trains galore

Got a bit more painted
Have the cavity ready under the platform to run wiring for the lights.
If anyone knows how to make a river, let me know

Here is where I'm at right now:


----------



## gator do 65

Trains,
The other day I asked the better half for some wax paper, she handed me this product called "microcrisp" microwave crisping/browning wrap. It really didn't work as wax paper but it looks like water and seems to take water colors well, the photo was taken prior to adding color.
I've also heard people use clear resin and tint it to their liking.


----------



## raleets

trains galore said:


> I'd love to make a little river under the bridge, but no idea what to use for the water
> I've heard about a pour in liquid you can use that sets in, what would you guys use?


I used MAGIC WATER. It worked like a dream. Hobby Linc has it, as do many others, including eBay.
Fast, easy, and virtually foolproof. My lake and river are over two years old and are still perfectly clear with no yellowing whatsoever.
Bob


----------



## amer/flyer

Thanks

John


----------



## Big Ed

trains galore said:


> I'd love to make a little river under the bridge, but no idea what to use for the water
> I've heard about a pour in liquid you can use that sets in, what would you guys use?


Keep it simple do what shaygetz did,

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showpost.php?p=260487&postcount=6

There are more ways.


----------



## trains galore

*Wiring question*

Going to the model train show this weekend, can't wait
I got some really thin wood to use for the new control panel, so I will start that soon

Quick question is it ok to wire multiple turnouts to one CDU? To save buying 5 seperate push buttons I was thinking I could just wire one push button in series with a rotary switch, and the rotary switch will connect a group of point motors so I won't be switching them all at once, but rather in groups of 2 or three. I could then use normal spdt switches for each turnout, so I just set the switch and hit the button to apply power
What do you guys think? technically I know it will work but I'm worried I might destroy the point motors by them being energised in the direction they are already set every time I switch the points. I'm also a bit concerned as to whether or not the CDU is capable of supplying that much power at once, it's a peco CDU connected up to an old train set plug pack.

The other option is to get the spdt's that click back when you release them, that would work too


----------



## DonR

I don't quite follow your rotary switch circuit for your
turnouts.

First, the number of turnouts that can be thrown
with one button push depends on the power the Capacitor Discharge Unit
is getting and it's Capacitor.

I am using an 18 V door bell transformer for my CDU power
source. It has the juice to throw 5 Peco turnouts at one time.

Repeated CDU pulses to a 'thrown' turnout will not harm it
so long as the # is withing reason and not so many as to
heat up the motor coils.

If you are using these turnouts in a yard you may like the
diode 'matrix' system to throw them with a CDU.

Say you have a 4 track yard into a ladder track which goes
onto a mainline. You have ONE button in each yard track.
Push that one button and all turnouts in the route to the
main throw at the same time. You could just connect a
wire from each button to each of turnouts in the path. 
But that would
cause a back feed at times. So, instead of the wire you
use a tiny diode. It conducts DC in one direction only so
no back feed. A pack of them is around 3.00 or so at Radio Shack.

This would be so much easier than the rotary switch and
several spdt switches.

Don


----------



## trains galore

Thanks for the ideas DonR
What I mean with the rotary switch is that rather than applying power to all 5 solenoids at once, I will group them together so only a few are connected at any one time. Then you just set the direction of the point with the switches.

I understand what a diode is but I don't know what you mean by back feed. Do you mean that as the magnetic field breaks down in the coil of the solenoid a current gets produced like with a relay?

I got my neighbour to help me build a new control panel frame today, here it is


And here is my wiring diagram for the rotary switch idea:


----------



## DonR

That's going to be a very nice panel. Great workmanship.

I still don't quite get your reason for the rotary switch. I
see your circuit drawing and how you plan to wire it,
but I fail to understand exactly the point.

Are you possibly saying, you will set the
rotary for a certain set of turnouts in your yard, then 
use each individual switch to
throw them to avoid overloading your source?

Now, if you were to preset the spdt switches so that they
would all throw and create a clear route when you turned the
rotary to their point I could understand. That would be
effectively similar to my diode matrix, in that one manuever
throws several turnouts.

I throw 4 or 5 yard ladder turnouts at a time using my CDU through
the diode martix and there is no overload and they
all respond smoothly.

As to the 'back feed' question.

In my diode matrix, a button in each panel track is connected
to each turnout in the path to the main. That means
there are several 'wires' (diodes) to each turnout
for the several buttons. Some buttons will
throw a certain turnout 'straight', another would throw it
to diversion. Both of the twin coils would be energized at the
same time in some circumstances unless
something prevented the current from going backward, which is
what the diodes do. It is simple electricity, not magnetic flux.

The circuit drawing of a diode matrix looks scsry. It is not
complex in actuality tho. Very simple straightforward connections on
a standard terminal board to which the turnout twin coils
are connected.

Don


----------



## trains galore

Well after a long break I've come back (got busy with an old computer...)
Anyway yes that was my plan, I've been having a look at this site here http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/Electrical.html and it reccomends not switching more than two or three turnouts at once with one CDU, and I think that's a good idea as otherwise it'll draw alot of current! Because my switches are spdt I was thinking I could use the rotary switch as drawn so that I only connect one group of points at a time, and then press a button to send power from the cdu. Maybe I could set it up so one switch controls two points, but then I could only set them for one particular route Here is the track diagram, how should I set it up? so the top two are thrown at the same time? Otherwise I could just stick with individual switches for each one.








I just don't feel happy about making my cdu power 4+ turnouts all at once, so I though I'd use the rotary switch to split them into ''circuits''
I also wanted to use the spdt's as I prefer them over those blue atlas switches I have at the moment, I don't understand how to label them properly so I know what every switch does!

Thanks!


----------



## DonR

Some times the electric engineers are far too conservative.

A CDU can easily throw 4 twin coil turnout motors at the same
time. (when in use, ALL power comes from the CDU's capacitor
so there's no threat of an overload of your CDU power source.)
And don't worry about overloading your CDU, it will send everything
stored in the capacitor and that's all that can happen. It won't
burn out. After use, it will recharge to the design of the capacitor.

Your track diagram seems to show a double cross over. If that
is what it is, most modellers would use one spst normally open
push button that when pushed would throw, for example, the right connecting
pair of turnouts to diverting (curved) at the same time. 
Another spst button would do the same for the left connecting turnouts. 
You would have third
spst button that would throw all four turnouts to straight. An
alternative would be to have a button in top track to throw
top turnouts to straight and a 2nd in the bottom track to throw
the bottoms to straight. (I prefer the single button to throw
all 4 turnouts to straight). Only 3 buttons to wire; No rotating switch is needed.

I throw 6 Peco twin coil turnouts at the same time in my
yard lead track with my home made CDU that is based on a circuit
from the Kalmbach Model Railroad Electronics manual.

Don


----------



## Magic

Trains you don't want to throw the top and bottom as sets but left and right should be tied together. 
You'll need to throw say the left two to divergent and the right two will need to be straight or you end up back on the same track.

I have a similar set up on my layout but the turnouts are much farther apart. 
I have tortoise switch machines and can use just two toggle switches, one each for left and right. 
If you haven't bought the turnouts yet maybe look into a double crossover. Than one switch can work all 4 points. You set them all straight or turn.

Magic

PS welcome back we missed you.


----------



## trains galore

Thanks
I suppose it all depends on how I intend to run it, if I want to go straight through, go up to the top track and from there either stop or come back down to the track I started on. I could wire them as sets though, with two spdt's so that all I have to is set the direction and it will throw two turnouts at once:stroke:
Otherwise I can just wire them each to their own switch, they are actually dpdt's because I want to use the second set of contacts for signals, which I will be able to control on their own without actually changing the position of the turnout since i have to actually push the button from the CDU to apply power
That should work fine since all my signals are 2 aspect, though I want a 3 aspect one for the new part of the layout but I can always add a 3 position rotary for that


----------



## DonR

Trains

A 3 wire Red/Green LED can be a 3 color, Red/Green/Yellow.
To make the yellow you power both red and green at
the same time. This could be 3 color aspect as a 'target'
signal.

What type of turnout motors do you use, tortoist or
twin coil?

Don


----------



## trains galore

Yes there are two types of 3 aspect, the ones I mean actually have 3 lights (orange in the middle)
Though I do have some bi colour leds around, so I might be able to make signals with them, I'm not modelling any place in particular so I could just invent my own signals

Anyway, today I drilled out the holes for the control panel switches and waiting for the paint to dry so will start wiring it all up tomorrow 

Magic, I wished I'd done the track different but it is already there from a while back, I'm just rewiring the control panel since I have those blue atlas switches at the moment and don't like them much, since I can't tell what position they are in:laugh:
Here are some pictures of it anyway


----------



## DonR

I'm using those 'milk plastic' terminal strips shown in your pic.
I hate 'em, but they were all Radio Shack had when I needed them.
The problem is that the set screw sometimes fails to press on
the inserted wire and you have an intermittent connection. I
suggest tugging on each wire after making the connection
to insure proper contact.

Don


----------



## trains galore

*Control panel*

Well today I painted another coat on as the marks I put on the panel from drilling the holes were still showing, gone now though
I mounted all the point switches, the push button and some other stuff, will start the wiring soon, I've got a ton of it to do as well...
Also need to remove the old panel and terminate all the old connections to those plug in terminal blocks, so the new panel will plug in.

DonR, good advice, I know what you mean, they can come loose, you have to make sure they have actually clamped down on the wire properly and not just to the side, I have some others on my layout, I just give the wire a good pull once I'm done to ensure it's in properly 

Anyway more pictures


----------



## trains galore

Started wiring the control panel today,soldered the centre wires to the switches.
Next step is to connect the remaining two terminals to the plugs, then the CDU and all that


----------



## trains galore

*Rotary switch wiring*

Hi again 
Have wired up the rotary switch, couldn't be bothered looking up the data sheet for it so I just got out the multi meter on the continuity buzzer setting and worked it out
3 point circuits at the moment, with more positions available on the switch should I need any more (hopefully not)
Next step is to wire the dpdt's to the output plugs so I can connect it to the rest of the layout, and then I'll start removing the old control panels hopefully it'll all work as long as I label the wires BEFORE I start removing them as I honestly can't remember all the electrical connections I did
Some pictures, sorry about the terrible quality from my ipod touch camera :laugh:


----------



## trains galore

*Plug wiring*

Wired the remaining two (not center contacts) of each switch to a terminal block today Took a while, I could have just gone straight from the switch to the plug in terminals but was worried the solder joints wouldn't take the stress of the plug hanging once installed.

The plugs look like normal terminal blocks but they actually click together, so I can unplug the panel should I ever need too (very unlikely) but it does mean that I can do most of the wiring without needing to get under the control desk, all I need to do is just plug it in.

Next step is to connect the two wires from the terminal block back to the plug in terminals, these are the two positives for my point solenoids, and the small grey wire loops on each socket are the neutrals from the transformer (center contact on my point solenoids  )

Really want to get this out of the way so I can get back to doing scenery, but it is worth doing properly if I'm going to bother fixing it at all so I'll take my time. I'm still deciding on a plan as well for the undeveloped end of the layout, I need to plan a multi level station/yard since the bridge comes over it as well, should be interesting...


----------



## amer/flyer

Trains,

Can I wire my transformer to the block, which I have and then to the track, and do the same with the accessories?


----------



## trains galore

Hi! 

For DC what most people do is wire their transformer to a buss, which is simply a terminal block like the one above. Then from there the ''feeder'' wires from each piece of track are connected. If you have more than one controller then you use a dpdt (double contacts) switch so you can select which transformer you want to power that section of track (or block as most people refer to it) with. The buss simply provides a place for all all the feeder wires to be connected to each other in parallel, you simply put in two wires, then another two on top of that etc.

Just make sure that the wires are all the same polarity to the track though or it will short circuit, though most controllers are protected from that it will stop your trains and isn't good

For accessories just connect them all up in paralell, and a buss (terminal block) allows you to do this easily and more circuits can always be added for new accessories. You may also want to install switches in series for the accessories so you can turn them on and off. Remember to connect them to the accessories output on your transformer (16v AC or 12v dc usually) and not the track output or things will get nasty!

Are you wiring with dc or dcc though? Would be interested to see your layout thread if you have one


----------



## amer/flyer

Trains,

I do not have a layout yet, but have the parts, the block, switches, but need a controller for the switches. Have an idea of what I want to do, I will have a "s" gauge and an "O" gauge. I have an old Lionel ZW transformer. Have every thing set up temporarily "S' gauge". That's what I usually do is trail and error then read the instructions Thanks for the info.


----------



## Magic

Trains that's going to be a big improvement in your wiring. Looking good. :thumbsup:

Magic


----------



## trains galore

Thanks
I finished wiring one control panel plug and have started the second, one and a half plugs left to wire, and then the fuses, and then the block switches, and then the actual sockets under the control desk to plug this into Plenty to do...


----------



## amer/flyer

I agree, sounds like a big layout


----------



## trains galore

Well it is and it isn't, it is only about 30 cm wide for the most part since it is a shelf one, but it is very long, goes right around to the door and ends there. 
So I don't really have room for mountains so I just started building more of a city layout with two level trains so I can at least have a cool bridge

The plan for the undeveloped end is city high rise, but I'm not yet sure how to create that, if anyone knows any good ways to do it let me know


----------



## amer/flyer

trains,

Sounds good..


----------



## trains galore

*Taking out the old panels*

Well at last I decided to actually do something on my layout again for the first time in a while, been way too busy:laugh:

Anyway so I'm in the process of installing the new control system, I've started by beginning to remove the old panels, it is very, very tedious hwell: especially since I didn't label all my wires, I'll never make that mistake again
So I'm just trying to take the time to label and work out what goes where before I start really getting into it as there are a lot of cables
Also I while back I found a 30 led work light on the side of the road (we used to have junk collections clean ups, always fun) so I wired it up to a little 12v plug pack and it's perfect, makes it so much easier to see what I'm doing, definitely would recommend getting one, I think you can get them in car accessory stores fairly cheap but I was pretty happy I got mine for free :laugh:


----------



## Big Ed

I hear you about wires.
Little by little as you go along they multiply into a giant mass of wires.

Mine are not as bad as yours but I didn't label anything, never did. I sort of have a system under the table, but no labels.
I am curious on how you will label them or how others keep track of all the wires.


----------



## trains galore

Yes, I really need to label them, I just use a piece of masking tape. I've seen them labelled just by writing on the cable with a fine permanent marker, but it only really works on the 4 core and up cables
I'll also have to move that shelf bracket and I hate drilling any more holes in the wall but I think I'll have to
Best way to make sure it is the same height as the other bracket is with a spirit level I'm thinking?


----------



## Big Ed

Masking tape gets old and brittle over time. It might end up just falling off.

How about some kind of tape a little better then masking tape maybe cloth tape? And instead of trying to write a description on each one just put a number on it and write a description in your RR notebook.

I am still curious on how others keep track of their wires.


----------



## DonR

Radio Shack and other such stores have preprinted wire labels. You
simply peel one off and wrap it around a wire. Wrap it's mate around
the other end of the wire.

It's helpful then to keep a log of the wire numbers with a short description
of it's function.

Don


----------



## trains galore

That's a great idea! We don't have radioshack over here, but I'll check to see if altronics has them, probably something similair available
The Australian equivalent of radioshack used to be dick smith but they haven't sold any electronic components in years now, just mobile phones and alarm clocks and stuff  so now I have to go to a dedicated electronics store just to buy simple stuff like terminal blocks and plastic enclosures:laugh:


----------



## Big Ed

trains galore said:


> That's a great idea! We don't have radioshack over here, but I'll check to see if altronics has them, probably something similair available
> The Australian equivalent of radioshack used to be dick smith but they haven't sold any electronic components in years now, just mobile phones and alarm clocks and stuff  so now I have to go to a dedicated electronics store just to buy simple stuff like terminal blocks and plastic enclosures:laugh:



We might not have them for long anyway.

RadioShack Says It May Need to File for Bankruptcy
The retailer whose name was once synonymous with electronics says it may be headed for bankruptcy or even liquidation. RadioShack said Thursday it may need to file for Chapter 11 if its cash situation worsens, after reporting its tenth straight quarterly loss. The company is also exploring other options, including a sale or an investment, to overhaul its balance sheet, it said in a regulatory filing. RadioShack, whose sales have been in a free-fall since 2010, said it was working with its lenders and landlords to restructure its debt and cut costs.

The company raised doubts about its ability to continue as a going concern and said it may have to liquidate as a last resort. RadioShack stores, which have been around for more than 90 years, were once the go-to shops for budding innovators and engineers for products that ranged from vacuum tube speakers to the first mass-produced PC. The retailer, however, has done little to transform itself into a destination for mobile phone buyers, losing out to rivals such as Best Buy Co Inc , Amazon.com Inc and Wal-Mart Stores Inc .


----------



## trains galore

That sounds bad
I guess no one wants to make anything themelves anymore, there is a bigger market in all the mobile phones and stuff!
For a long time there was absolutely no where close by to buy components without having to drive a fair way into town after Dick Smith shut down, but luckily another electronics place came in Better buy those components while I still can and before those awful smd components take over haha:laugh:


----------



## trains galore

*Control panel up!*

Well I managed to pull out the old control panels, label the wires, move the wall bracket and get it up on the wall
Still need to finish wiring track 1 and 2 block switches so I'll take it down again to do that, just put it up to test fit and so I can look at it:laugh:

The small gap on the bottom I'm thinking I could install a small signal panel for my signals, I could fit a little timer behind it as well to control the relays, thinking I might get a few 3 aspect signals just for fun








And see this fine mess after the original main panel was removed







All gone now!


----------



## trains galore

Well the new panel is in and running so will post a picture soon, though I still need to get some cable tidies to neaten it up a bit
Finally I can get to the scenery again, though I may not be using the part with the bridge I built earlier...
I didn't plan any of this layout at all


----------



## trains galore

Just a few pictures of the layout so far and also some new toys got the Union Pacific for $50 second hand at the train show but it runs beautifully, very smooth! Probably because of it's weight and how many wheel pickups it has, it's a really nice one. It's from the Bachmann Spectrum which I've found to be pretty good stuff.
Also picked up an old hornby with the X04 motor, you can literally see the sparks flying off the wheels:laugh: in fact it keeps making my timer do weird things and the relay clicks on and off randomly, must be the interference it's generating as it only happens with that train!

Also have extended the baseboard out and ready to start building the scenery, should be fun


----------



## Magic

Well the control panel looks much better and no doubt works better as well. :thumbsup:
Nice pick up on the loco.

Magic


----------



## trains galore

*New bridge*

Well have made a bit more progress once again
Put a light in the signal box, I need to seal up the gaps to stop the light leaking through, but the strip of black card helped a bit

Have built a bridge for the corner to bring trains over the elevated level but having some issues taking a decent picture of it so will upload it later!

Also ordered some 3 aspect signals off ebay, 8 of them for $28 AUD so pretty good price I thought, will probably control them with a micro controller and some reed switches, but they won't be coming for probably a few weeks yet

Plenty to do now anyway, the problem is I can't decide what I should do next


----------



## trains galore

Been busy chipping off all the old scenery, a brand new wood chisel seems to do a nice a job of that

Also ripped up the track and have installed two new turnouts so now I can have 3 tracks instead of one, need to wire it up though


Also the signals arrived today, haven't tested them but they look pretty nice and 8 of them for $30 was pretty good, especially since they are 3 aspect! Can't wait to wire them up


----------



## Magic

When you start using a wood chisel on your scenery you're getting into some pretty heavy duty remodeling.  

Like the changes. :smilie_daumenpos:

Magic


----------



## trains galore

Haha yeah I tried a screwdriver but the chisel works best for removing ballast and that scenic material, once I chipped it off I actually put in an an ice cream tub to use later as I remember it being pretty expensive where I bought it from (woodland scenics)
Need to get out the proper camera again and stop using the terrible quality ipod camera


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## trains galore

Done a bit more work down the end of the layout, started building a small harbour/dock just for fun, it's a challenge getting the trains up that steep gradient though would like it less steep but don't have any more space so will have to live with making my trains charge at it
It actually works ok most of the time but I do have problems where it derails coming back down on the point causing a short circuit, any ideas on how to deal with that have been changing the gradient and it helps a bit.

Also made another panel for the yard and will start installing it once the wiring is tested which controls the yard points and also the signals (that is what the relay is for since I ran out of contacts on the switch!

Always more stuff to do


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## amer/flyer

*problems*

trains,

I work on a layout with grades, it is wired so that you can control the track, up and down, using the transformer.


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## DonR

Where your cars derail coming off the elevation, could it
be a Kadee coupler 'hose' snagging in a tie. You do have
to have a smooth transition from elevation to level at
the lower end. If it's too sharp the wheels of
one axle on a truck could lose contact with the rail and derail.

I just finished a sand and gravel unloading trestle that
looks to be about the same elevation as what you have
but I allowed the flex track to find it's on level and have
not had any derailing. You might try adjusting that
hold down screw that I see.

Don


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## trains galore

Yes adjusting the hold down screw has helped a lot, maybe the track needs more support as well.
The longer engines get too close too the track and scrape as they come down, but the shorter, higher off the ground models seem to work better.
Also I might need to put the hold down screw more towards the middle as the wheels could be hitting it as they come down, making it derail

The other problem is that my kadee couplers don't like the angle, I have to place the engine at the back and push the cars up the ramp as otherwise the coupler disengages and they all come flying back down onto the mainline:laugh: Though it is actually pretty entertaining when that happens! I'm pretty sure it has happened on some real railways before which is why they put an engine at the back on some grades in case the coupler fails!

Anyway I will try adjusting the screw, thanks for the help!


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## trains galore

Did some more stuff today!
Wired up two signals which are controlled by a relay connected up to the dpdt point switch, also wired up the yard block switches so I can park trains in there now.
Connected up one point motor but I'm going to have to install another rotary switch as it doesn't work if I try to throw more than one point! I have a peco CDU module but the power pack is tiny, probably doesn't have enough juice to do it. I don't want to connect it up to my main dual controller as I'm worried it will affect the trains on the track when they are running, they will slow down when I throw the point motors!

Really need to put a board up the end of that yard too, I drove a train half way over the edge of the baseboard by accident (forgot to isolate a section) and stopped it just in time before it was about to go crashing onto the ground 

More updates to come hopefully


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## trains galore

Finally can make an update here again! 
Done a fair bit since the last, mostly in the same area with adding in the bridges and also a small car park with LED cars I bought off ebay.
The unpainted section of the bridge is the most recent addition, I need to detail it (add some struts and bolts) and then paint it up and lay the track over the top, so still lots to do until the top line is running! 
I also recently obtained a radio controlled transformer (Life Like) but it doesn't have great speed control or power to get older trains running smoothly, so I'm going to connect up a relay system that controls the output of the main controller so that I can use the wireless one to change direction and stop and go, and then adjust the speed at the main controller! Got the relays but need some diodes to make it work.


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## Magic

Good to see you back trains. Some big improvements, lots of lights. Looks good and the cars are a nice addition. :thumbsup: 

Magic


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## Cycleops

What do the nodding dog, the Dalek, the robot and the purple pig think of it?


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## trains galore

Haha thanks for the comments! 
The LED cars were pretty cheap ($10 for a bag of 8) but make a nice addition, I have a switch at the edge of the baseboard to turn them off as well.

I do have some rather random stuff on the top of the desk below don't I! 
What is it about things getting in the way of my layout photos! Last time people commented about the fish species poster I had above the bridge (until I moved it!)

I promise I only have one Dalek model by the way, no exterminations yet!


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## gunrunnerjohn

Love the lights on the cars, that's a great night scene.


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## Cycleops

trains galore said:


> What is it about things getting in the way of my layout photos! Last time people commented about the fish species poster I had above the bridge (until I moved it!)


Maybe they're more interested in marine life than model railroading.

By the way the night scene would be more effective if you tried to blank out the interior light in the cars leaving just the head and tail lights.


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## trains galore

Did some more painting today, got the bridge painted and have started gluing in the walls on the top levels. The walls are made of popsicle sticks glued together with PVA and spray painted ''Botanic Green''.  I was too cheap to go and get some proper ones so this will do for now!  I am using old car charger battery clamps to hold them down so that the PVA glue will set properly. 

Also got rid of the old control panel on the side of the tunnel and have replaced it with a small box which doesn't obstruct the view of my trains as much.


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## DennyM

trains galore said:


> Just a few pictures of the layout so far and also some new toys got the Union Pacific for $50 second hand at the train show but it runs beautifully, very smooth! Probably because of it's weight and how many wheel pickups it has, it's a really nice one. It's from the Bachmann Spectrum which I've found to be pretty good stuff.
> Also picked up an old hornby with the X04 motor, you can literally see the sparks flying off the wheels:laugh: in fact it keeps making my timer do weird things and the relay clicks on and off randomly, must be the interference it's generating as it only happens with that train!
> 
> Also have extended the baseboard out and ready to start building the scenery, should be fun
> View attachment 38345
> 
> 
> View attachment 38346
> 
> 
> View attachment 38347


Nice engine. $50 huh...I need to go to more train shows. I'm saving for York. I went last October, there's not enough money on the planet to buy all that's there. I like your control panel too. I'm thinking about doing something like that someday.


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## trains galore

Thanks! 
Finally got around to doing something again, installed two new points, one at the bridge and one in the station. It used to be just two tracks around the curve but the radius of the inner track was so tight that hardly anything could run on it, which meant it just sat there collecting dust! 
The new arrangement allows me to run a train in to the station and then run a different one back out on the same track, or transfer between the tracks which will be much more fun! 

Also re did the crossover tracks in the middle, I was never really happy with it since every time I tried to cross tracks something derailed due to the fact that there were no track joiners on one side (long story short, I had to isolate it and couldn't think of any other way at the time!) Have redone it properly this time with metal joiners one side and plastic at the other, still need to rewire it to suit the changes but I haven't had a single derailment through it yet! :smilie_daumenpos:

Also finished the top line for the trams, got that running at last!

All well and good, until planet of the apes happened!


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## Chops

A lot going on on this busy layout. Love the Kong!


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