# Tightening up a 634 Search Light Car



## Smoke Stack Lightning (Dec 7, 2015)

I have a 634 (type 8) search light car which is the grey diecast, short handrail, yellow light housing, C&NW version.

I don't know what the designer was drinking, but this car has some flaws to deal with. Instead of the tightening screw treads being in the light housing they are at the mounting fork contact points. All tightening does is spread (force/bend) the mounting fork further apart. So the light basically aims upwards due to gravity and vibration as it rides. The swivel action is loose at the fork base causing it to vibrate around in circles. The black sheet metal pedestal looks (along with the handrails) to be riveted to the diecast car frame. Would I have to remove the rivets and pedestal to tighten the swivel nut?

I would like to be able to keep the light beam to be aimed in a specific direction, which ain't a gonna happen currentlyhwell:! Otherwise I love the car

Thanks for any help or suggestions!

Rich


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

All of mine are packed away. Post a couple of pictures to refresh my old mind.....


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## steam chaser (Feb 21, 2011)

Thanks fellas,i will dig up the rest of the cars when i get home this evening ,none of them are pristine and they all need a little tlc,but i would do that deal all day long.


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## Smoke Stack Lightning (Dec 7, 2015)

:lol_hitting::lol_hitting: Blind in one eye and see out of the other! There are 4 metal tabs holding the platform to the car. I've just about got this car to where I wan't it, unfortunately it won't be worth anything anymore! There is no nut on the base of the light fork bracket, it needed to be peened. As careful as I was I bent one of the forks. I tried to straighten it and it broke. No problem, JB Weld. I molded the epoxy around both arms to give it some symmetry and it doesn't look to bad. It does seem to be very strong. Then I drilled through the light housing and JB Weld a couple of stainless nuts to the inside. Now the housing actually tightens to a fixed position. I'm happy with the modification. There was a rough looking 3 light searchlight car pretty cheap on the bay. I could kick myself for not buying it for parts!

Rich


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Unfortunately a lot of rivets were used in the "olden" days to assemble these items. Over 60 years later, who would have thought they would still be useable? Sadly the old rivets are loosening. Some slight peening may fix the loose connection, but trouble can occur as you found. I think had I been in the same predicament, I would have just JB Welded it fast rather than try to tighten it....notice my armchair quarterback tendencies.


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## Gilbertologist (Oct 31, 2015)

For reliable non-flickering light I run 2 super flex wires inside the housing and attach the other ends one to each truck rivet head underneath the platform. Remove the glass and bulb, then use a Dremel tool to remove the bits of die cast metal holding the socket in place. The second (ground) wire can be soldered to the back of the socket, then use a bit of your preferred adhesive to reinstall the socket. Of course this is for the operator, not for a collector piece.
Don


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

I have my original trains on the Christmas layout, I put them out 2 days ago. One of the cars is a 634. With clean wheels and track it does not flicker at all. Likely because it is so heavy with the die cast chassis. No matter how I clean them the 630 cabooses and 652/654 passenger cars flicker slightly. They weigh much less than the 634.


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## Aflyer (Nov 10, 2010)

amflyer,
I don't think flickering lights in the passenger cars is a problem. My first train rides in the 60's from New Haven to NYC, featured flickering lights in the prototype passenger cars.

I only fix them when they don't light at all, the flickering is ok with me. LOL

Aflyer


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