# Track Cleaning Cars



## Bkubiak (Oct 20, 2013)

OK Gang I am in the market for a track cleaning car
Lets hear your thoughts on the best and the worst and the most expensive and least expensive
but most important which ones actually work the best.


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I have a Walthers one which is just a hard block (like a Bright Boy) fastened to the bottom of a boxcar, with weight in the car. Generally, I wrap the block in a small piece of rag (using a rubber band to hold it on) moistened with denatured alcohol and run it around my track.

This works fine, so long as I haven't done any scenery work nearby, which requires a more thorough cleaning.


----------



## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

Here's some info, previously posted on the forum:

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=23145&highlight=track+cleaning+car


----------



## fcwilt (Sep 27, 2013)

http://tonystrains.com/cmx-clean-machine/

http://www.aztectrains.com/hoscaletrackclea.html

http://www.aztectrains.com/HO_1.html

https://www.mnpinc.com/accurail.htm

The first one is works very well. You can use just about any cleaning fluid you can think of.

The "Annihilator" works very well but it has plastic parts so choose your cleaning fluid carefully. I purchased the DCC controlled valve add-on.

I like the ones from MNP for a quick cleanup, no fluid required.


----------



## Bkubiak (Oct 20, 2013)

fcwilt said:


> http://tonystrains.com/cmx-clean-machine/
> 
> http://www.aztectrains.com/hoscaletrackclea.html
> 
> ...


WOW I had no idea there were so many choices and all the better ones are SO Expensive


----------



## fcwilt (Sep 27, 2013)

Bkubiak said:


> WOW I had no idea there were so many choices and all the better ones are SO Expensive


Well often I think you get what you pay for.

And there are a few others I didn't provide links for. I listed the ones I think are best.

The CMX unit will outlive me I'm pretty sure.

And you really only need one. 

Two is nice in that you can put one ahead of your "cleaning" loco and one behind so no matter what direction you go you are cleaning the track ahead of the loco.

But you can do fine with one.

If you are limited to one I could suggest the CMX.


----------



## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

Don't buy one, build one:
http://wpporter.worthygems.com/trackcleaner.php


----------



## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

I would go even further with that excellent home-built version, and attach a thin weight plate to the top of the masonite pad, to put some extra weight on the rails as the car moves along.


----------



## vikramgoel (Mar 2, 2015)

Bkubiak said:


> OK Gang I am in the market for a track cleaning car
> Lets hear your thoughts on the best and the worst and the most expensive and least expensive
> but most important which ones actually work the best.


Hi,

I use the CMX Clean Tank car. AN excellent product a few negatives 1) Expensive 2) May need to be pulled & pushed by two locos.
But cleans great I use Rubbing Alcohol to clean and then wipe it down with a paper towel.
Regards,

Vik.


----------



## lajrmdlr (Apr 25, 2014)

The make your own shown by "flyboy" works great & lasts a long time. If the bolts used are heavy extra weight isn't really needed. But it can't be used for really dirty track. Good old elbow grease is needed for that. Just run it a few laps before each ops session. Just don't use a bright boy as that scratches the rail head leaving grooves which collects dirt, oils, etc. Found a very good abrasive block at a MR show that doesn't scratch rail heads (The Tool Guy?). The rough side of Masonite can also do the same thing in conjunction w/ isopropyl alcohol.


----------



## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

I have an HO scale CMX cleaning car which works GREAT with denatured alcohol. I highly recommend it, but they are pricey. You get what you're willing to pay for.
Bob


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

It's really not that difficult to make a serviceable track cleaning
car. I got a box of spare parts when I bought the last of
an estate sale. Among the parts was a 'dead' motorized HO
diesel truck. I disconnected all of the wires, and devised a
way to fasten a felt pad vertically so that it's end brushed
the track. It had a truck mount coupler draft box so I
installed a Kadee.

















I put a few drops of alcohol on the top of the
felt and pushed it around with a loco. It did a good
job for a year or so. Then I found a 'store bought'
cleaner at a train show for 7.00. It is a MOW
tank and 'caboose' with a round felt pad that
lays flat against the track. Again you put a few
drops of alcohol on it and push it around with the
loco. The pad is wide enough to clean both rails.
It also does a good job. It would be a simple matter
to use any car weighted enough and install a
round pad similar.

Don


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

lajrmdlr said:


> The make your own shown by "flyboy" works great & lasts a long time. If the bolts used are heavy extra weight isn't really needed. But it can't be used for really dirty track. Good old elbow grease is needed for that. Just run it a few laps before each ops session. Just don't use a bright boy as that scratches the rail head leaving grooves which collects dirt, oils, etc. Found a very good abrasive block at a MR show that doesn't scratch rail heads (The Tool Guy?). The rough side of Masonite can also do the same thing in conjunction w/ isopropyl alcohol.


A bright boy does not scratch the rail It is a hard rubber block, not very different from the old fashioned ink erasers. At least, mine is -- of course it is about 40 years old and still going. Maybe they're using different material today.

If you're really concerned about scratches, you can always burnish the rail by running a large steel washer over it.


----------



## ED-RRR (Jun 4, 2015)

*Oxidation*

For the past (25) years this has been the most discussed topic in model railroading..
Of course everyone uses the best procedure for their layout..
The fact is our (#1) enemy is track "oxidation "..

I must confess that I also use abrasive rubber blocks with different grits..
But excessive use of abrasive cleaners will pro-duce micro-scratches on the rail
which increases "oxidation "..
That is why I use a non abrasive liquid cleaner using a CMX Clean Machine..
Of course once you have cleaned the track, "oxidation " will continue..

Should have a maintenance program to reduce this big problem..
Pacer Technology's Rail-Zip PT23 is a track and wheel cleaner that is designed
for improving electrical contact.. 
It is used for slot car racing and model railroads to eliminate accumulations of oxide..
It comes in 1oz. bottle..
Labelle #105 DCC Track Conditioner that cleans your track
and leaves a micro-coating on the rails..
It comes in 1oz. bottle..
Both products are not cheap ($'s) and will not last long..

Found this very interesting procedure.. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ReSUSruSVVY
He uses CRC 2-26 electrical liquid for cleaning that leaves a conductive 
thin coating on his DCC tracks.. 
He uses a scrap of cork roadbed hot-glued to a wooden block..
Once dry the film coating on the rails provides reliable power pick-up 
and helps prevent the build up of muck on wheels..
Plastic safe lubricant, penetrant and corrosion inhibitor that helps prevent electrical malfunctions caused by water penetration, humidity, condensation or corrosion..
Restores resistance values and helps stop current leakage.. 

CRC 2-26 Multi-Purpose Lubricant:
- Home Depot 5oz. $3.00 (U.S. Only)
- Walmart 16oz. $6.00 (U.S. Only)
- Automotive Supply (Canada)

......


----------



## lajrmdlr (Apr 25, 2014)

A friend uses CRC 2-26 and never has problems w/ dirty track even when he doesn't run every day. He has a FT job, runs a LHS & he's in the US Army Reserves.


----------



## TA462 (Oct 17, 2014)

I use a CMX Clean Machine and follow it up with Wahl's Clipper Oil used very sparingly on the rails. Just a tiny drop every 10 feet or so.


----------



## ED-RRR (Jun 4, 2015)

*Crc 2-26*



TA462 said:


> I use a CMX Clean Machine and follow it up with Wahl's Clipper Oil used very sparingly on the rails. Just a tiny drop every 10 feet or so.


There are many individuals that use this procedure with good success..
Please keep in mind that the only purpose of clipper oil is to reduce friction
between metal moving parts.. 

Yes CRC 2-26 is also a lubricant, but it is specifically designed to 
clean, lubricate, penetrate and loosen corrosion for electrical parts..
The most important feature of this product is that it leaves behind a 
protective coating that also increases electrical conductivity.. 

......


----------



## TA462 (Oct 17, 2014)

I find the clipper oil increases electrical conductivity as well. For years I was a firm believer that putting oil on your rails was stupid. My old club then started to experiment with it at train shows. Before we used clipper oil we would have to clean our tracks 3 or 4 times a day while at a show. We could never figure out why they got so dirty, maybe because of the amount of people, a large gym, who knows. We then tried the clipper oil on the advice of another club. They said they add it and don't touch it again until the next show. We borrowed their bottle and tried it. We never touched the tracks all weekend after sparingly adding a few drops to the rails. I bought a bottle for myself the next day. We wiped down the tracks after the show and that black soot crap you get on your rails from the wheels sparking on the rails had basically disappeared. We were all impressed.


----------



## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

Any one try ATF ( automatic Transmission Fluid)? It was used like the clipper oil, you just dabbed on a few spots and let the trains drag it around. Unfortunately I can't remember what Forum had tried this method. But the idea was that it had properties similar to CRC 2-26 in that it was conductive.


----------



## TA462 (Oct 17, 2014)

Lemonhawk said:


> Any one try ATF ( automatic Transmission Fluid)? It was used like the clipper oil, you just dabbed on a few spots and let the trains drag it around. Unfortunately I can't remember what Forum had tried this method. But the idea was that it had properties similar to CRC 2-26 in that it was conductive.


I've heard of people trying it (on the internet) but don't know of anyone personally trying it. Like everything else out there people had different results. Personally, me being a mechanic I wouldn't use it because the viscosity is higher then Clipper oil. And its red.


----------



## lajrmdlr (Apr 25, 2014)

Problem using most oils is it stays on the rails which collects dirt. It may help w/ conductivity temporarily but the track is still dirty. The best thing my friends & me have seen is CRC 2-26. It not only cleans but remains conductive between the rails & the wheels.


----------



## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

t was once recommended to me to never use any kind of fluid on the tracks.....it only seems to collect more problems than it eliminates.....I have never used fluid, so I don't know if that is actually true....

Anybody......?


----------



## higgsbosonman (Nov 17, 2014)

I don't know about clipper oil or transmission fluid, but our club layout used goo gone and it covered the tracks in thick dissolved black goop. I ended up switching over to straight paint thinner (since it was all we had in the chemical cabinet that wasn't paint) and we use a CMX car with a few masonite cars trailing behind it. The tracks are still coated in the black goo in some places, but most of it is gone and the trains run way better.

If you do use some sort of fluid on the tracks, I would personally lean towards something that fully evaporates (like paint thinner) rather than something that doesn't and builds up over time. Of course, experimentation is always the best. I'm going to be building three more Masonite cars since they work so well.


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

My comment on Wahl's Clipper Oil is purely anecdotal. I have never done it myself.

I use only denatured alcohol of 91% rubbing alcohol to clean tracks.


----------



## TA462 (Oct 17, 2014)

lajrmdlr said:


> Problem using most oils is it stays on the rails which collects dirt. It may help w/ conductivity temporarily but the track is still dirty. The best thing my friends & me have seen is CRC 2-26. It not only cleans but remains conductive between the rails & the wheels.


Clipper Oil is a cleaner and helps with conductivity as well. The reason why track gets dirty is the constant arching of the wheels and the track on a DRY track. That's what causes the black soot on the rails. Its not dirt. Eliminate the arching or at least minimize it and your track stays cleaner longer. The amount of dust that lands on the track is very tiny. Grab a piece of flex track, put some clipper oil on it and store it away for a year. Once the year is up put a loco on it, hook up your DCC system and the loco will purr like a kitten. That is with a years worth of dust on it. 90% of issues people have with poor running loco's using DCC is because of the black soot on their rails and wheels. I clean my rails with my CMX clean machine using alcohol. Once its clean I put down very tiny drops of the clipper oil on the layout every 10 feet or so. Once this is done I clean all my locomotives wheels as well. People need to be reminded sometimes that preventative maintenance goes a long way when owning and operating a layout. How many people wait until they have a problem with poor performance before they clean track and loco and rolling stock wheels? I would bet 80% do. Put your layout on a maintenance schedule as well as your loco's and rolling stock and you will never have another issue again.


----------



## TA462 (Oct 17, 2014)

CTValleyRR said:


> My comment on Wahl's Clipper Oil is purely anecdotal. I have never done it myself.
> 
> I use only denatured alcohol of 91% rubbing alcohol to clean tracks.


DONT USE CLIPPER OIL TO CLEAN YOUR TRACKS!!!! Use it only after you clean your tracks. Sorry for yelling. :lol_hitting:


----------

