# Polishing the drum?



## AmFlyerFan (Jan 27, 2019)

I've taken my E unit apart to bend the fingers down. A 302AC.
I plan on polishing the drum with CRC before reassembly. I'd like to use my brass brush/Dremel, I use that on everything.
Any negatives on that? Is it even necessary? The drum actually looks pretty good. Can it hurt? Thanx.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I don't see how it could hurt. Spray it and wipe off with CRC after you polish it.
Just to get any grit off of it. Oil every thing that moves. When I replaced my first
set of fingers I did not bend them down. Train did not run. I learned a lesson.
Fingers were not touching the drum. Some were not.


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## AmFlyerFan (Jan 27, 2019)

Thanx. Sounds like a plan. Mine works but 1 finger looks a little light on the drum. I'll bend them all just a tiny bit.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

I remove the drum from the e-unit by spreading the sides just a little. I then use a bright-boy to polish the drum.While the drum is out, I also clean the drum axle ends and the drum axle holes in the side of the unit to remove any rust/corrosion.Check the brass pawl for any nicks or burrs. I also bend the small brass arm that protrudes out from the side of the drum. Don't forget, that little brass arm has been in a position where there's tension on it while it runs. In many cases that little arm can be bent. Some people will agree on this next step, some will disagree, but run your e-unit as dry as you can. I put a VERY small dot of oil on the drum axle and on the brass pawl, and then I wipe it off. Oil will collect dust and dirt, and when it does, it's going to stick. Then people will oil it again, and cause more problems. Be careful with the CRC, it will sometimes attack plastic. I sprayed some on a knuckle coupler and it melted it. I have a small spray bottle I keep on my work bench filled with rubbing alcohol,and I use that quite alot. I use the CRC when the drum is out of the e-unit as a precaution. And of course Al is right; bend the fingers down to be sure of a good contact.


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## AmFlyerFan (Jan 27, 2019)

Thanx. I'd been looking back at threads and seen most of your tips. Here they are all in one spot. I think I'll forgo Dremeling the drum, and just polish it.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

I agree with Flyernut, nothing to be gained lubricating the reversing unit.


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## AmFlyerFan (Jan 27, 2019)

Got cha. It seems to cycle okay. I did lube another E unit and had problems (too much oil) until I cleaned it.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

AmFlyer said:


> I agree with Flyernut, nothing to be gained lubricating the reversing unit.


Me too, it is a no no on O scale e units. 
I thought maybe on S you oil so did not say anything.

Just polish it up and keep it clean. :thumbsup:


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I always use a little oil, especially like flyernut said on the drum axles. You never want to much oil on anything. Sometimes a drop is too much. You can always soak some up with a paper towel. Not much dust in a tender unless you run it with the top off. Things do rust and the oil helps with that.

I have started using synthetic oil on my trains. LOL, you can go farther between oil changes. So far I like it.


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## AmFlyerFan (Jan 27, 2019)

mopac said:


> I always use a little oil, especially like flyernut said on the drum axles.
> 
> I have started using synthetic oil on my trains. LOL, you can go farther between oil changes. So far I like it.


What kind/brand?

My Labelle's is just about out. I'm gonna need something soon.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I bought a bottle of synthetic oil with a long metal needle off ebay. It is great for
oiling the drivers axles without making a mess. They are hard to oil without a needle.
Bottle had no oil name on it. Whenit runs out I am just going to buy a quart of 20W synthetic oil
and refill the bottle.
Many car engines have plastic parts in them so I think any synthetic would be plastic safe.
My bottle is small, a quart would refill it many times. I will get a pic. I know LaBelle's is
highly tooted but I doubt they refine their own oil.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Here is a pic. Seems I paid around 10 shipped. I wanted the needle.










I think it is just synthetic oil.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I didn't come up with the motor oil idea myself. Some of the guys on the O scale forum
have started using synthetic motor oil on their Lionels. Should be fine. If your bottle has
a needle just refill it yourself. 10.00 for 1 oz of oil is no deal. But I did not have a bottle with a needle.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I went to a local hobby shop and all they had was a bottle with a thick plastic needle.
It would not have fit in-between the AF drivers and the frame (chassis) to get to the axles.

That bottle of 1 oz oil will last a long time.


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## AmFlyerFan (Jan 27, 2019)

I've got several of those pen type oilers; cheap empties from E-by. You can put whatever in them. Precision is the key.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

AmFlyerFan said:


> Thanx. I'd been looking back at threads and seen most of your tips. Here they are all in one spot. I think I'll forgo Dremeling the drum, and just polish it.


Glad I could help...


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## AmFlyerFan (Jan 27, 2019)

flyernut said:


> Glad I could help...


More then you could know!

Almost a year ago I discovered this site. I've gone back in time and viewed most of the S threads here. I've learned so much from the 'regulars' here.
It reignited my love for my AF stuff. With all tips/threads I've gotten most of my stuff running again. My collection is modest but fun to play with. Which I'm doing this morning.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

AmFlyerFan said:


> More then you could know!
> 
> Almost a year ago I discovered this site. I've gone back in time and viewed most of the S threads here. I've learned so much from the 'regulars' here.
> It reignited my love for my AF stuff. With all tips/threads I've gotten most of my stuff running again. My collection is modest but fun to play with. Which I'm doing this morning.


And that's EXACTLY why they were made!!!:smilie_daumenpos:..The problem is no one sends me any repairs,lol!!!


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## AmFlyerFan (Jan 27, 2019)

flyernut said:


> And that's EXACTLY why they were made!!!:smilie_daumenpos:..The problem is no one sends me any repairs,lol!!!


My Ford F-150 needs rear pads... LOL


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## AFGP9 (Apr 8, 2015)

AmFlyerFan said:


> I've taken my E unit apart to bend the fingers down. A 302AC.
> I plan on polishing the drum with CRC before reassembly. I'd like to use my brass brush/Dremel, I use that on everything.
> Any negatives on that? Is it even necessary? The drum actually looks pretty good. Can it hurt? Thanx.


I too have a bottle of lubricant that I bought just so I could get the long metal needle to get into small, tight places that require lubricating like the side rods on your 302 where they attach to the wheels and all other side rod moving components. The bottle came with synthetic oil in it. I've since replaced the oil with 20W automotive oil. Seems to work just fine. 
As to the CRC, try 2-26. Home Depot has it in their lighting department. At least that is where I found it at my local HD. The 2-26 is an electrical cleaner and lubricant in one. Take a look at the CRC web site. There is another CRC electrical cleaner that is also plastic compatible. You just have to read the can to avoid the disaster that flyernut encountered. Since I found the 2-26 that has been my go-to CRC for all things electrical in locomotives and switches. One word of caution though. A little is a lot. So use sparingly. That stuff flat works! The can is smaller than regular size CRC can and blue in color. 

Kenny


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## AmFlyerFan (Jan 27, 2019)

I had been using the CRC QD cleaner. I did pick up a can of the CRC 2-26. My squeeze bottle of Labelle 107 is a synthetic, that's all I use on axles, armatures, etc.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I used to use 3 in 1 oil on my trains. Don't like it anymore. Probably too light
of an oil and it seems to evaporate.


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