# Kato (Con-Cor) 4-8-4 Northern S2 - DCC conversion



## N-Noob (May 10, 2015)

I started a thread in the N-scale forum and my questions are now more DCC specific, so I've started this thread. The previous discussion is >Here<

I recently bought this Kato steamer, thinking it was the later-issued DCC ready version produced by Con-Cor. It actually is the earlier version manufactured by Kato and imported by Con-Cor.










I'm going to attempt to convert it to DCC with the ESU Loksound Select Micro decoder. This is my first attempt on a non-DCC ready loco.

With help from posters in the previous thread, I was able to remove the motor and open the tender.










My current plan is to add a light to rear of tender (none currently installed) and re-wire the front light so it is directional after decoder installed. I may also add a firebox flicker light depending on how complicated this gets. I plan to use LEDs.

I have many Noob questions.

First... everything I read says to "isolate the motor," but I've yet to find a description of what that means. 










After probing around with my multimeter, I believe the motor can be isolated from the chassis by insulating the copper tabs on each side of the motor, and that the motor frame itself is electrically neutral. 

Question 1: Am I right? I plan to use Kapton tape after soldering wires to the tabs.

Question 2: Where is best spot to connect track power leads from the decoder? I was thinking either to the chassis of loco or the stiff wires that run between the tender and loco in the draw bar.

Question 3: I saw two color LEDs while researching. If I wanted the light at rear of tender to shine red when in forward, and white in reverse - can I use a two-color LED and wire the white LED lead to the rear light circuit of the decoder, and the red to the front-light circuit, or is there a better way? I'm not concerned about being prototypical.

Question 4: What do I use for the firebox flicker light? (I haven't started searching on that yet, sorry for the broad question).

Appreciate any guidance here. I'm a Noob.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I see no wires to motor so it is for sure not isolated. It gets power from
the frame. With DCC it can't touch the frame. That's what isolate is.
The motor can only get power from the decoder, nowhere else.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Yes, use Kapton to isolate the motor and solder the wires to the brass prongs after cutting them down/off. It looks like the frame is split type so you much be very careful to isolate it from the motor.You can connect the wheel pick up wires to the split chassis or maybe the wires running to the tender, whichever is most convenient. You can use a red led for the flicker function, a micro surface mount one might be preferable. Be sure to use a resistor.


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## DaneMarriott (Dec 21, 2015)

Can you please share the details of this here?
I want to know the electronics hardware components used into it.
And what are their specifications?
How i can build it as per my own requirements?


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

DaneMarriott said:


> Can you please share the details of this here?
> I want to know the electronics hardware components used into it.
> And what are their specifications?
> How i can build it as per my own requirements?


The electronics hardware used in the decoder or the loco? Do you want to build your own?


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## N-Noob (May 10, 2015)

I used an ESU LokSound Select Micro decoder. Also used the ESU 4 ohm speaker. Both the decoder and speaker are in the tender, which has plenty of room.

The speaker came with an enclosure, but it was too big to fit in the tender. The speaker fits quite well w/o the enclosure and the tender shell is nearly the perfect size to use as an enclosure itself. I put the speaker facing down in the front end of the tender, using double sided tape to hold it to the ceiling.

I ran the power pickup wires from the decoder to the stiff wires in the draw bar (between loco and tender).

The headlight before conversion to DCC is powered from contacts to the loco's frame. In order to have directional headlight, I isolated those contacts with kaptan tape and ran wires to the light from the decoder.

I originally planned to add a back-up light, but have left that for another day. I decided I don't have the patience (or dexterity or eyesight) to make that modification.


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