# BLI lettering removal



## steamloco (Jul 18, 2017)

Hope to remove lettering from BLI steam engines. Can it be done without harming the black paint underneath? Thanks for your input.


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## QueenoftheGN (Dec 10, 2019)

RTR models lettering is not done by decals, it is usually printed on with special ink/paint. There are several different methods of removing lettering, not all work on all models, even by the same manufacturer.

I've used Walthers Solvaset decal solvent on a cotton swab to remove lettering on some models. It works some times, but you need to watch carefully as you go along, as the paint underneath can also be removed. Others have used waterless hand cleaner, rubbing alcohol, commercial model paint remover, etc. There is no one solution for all models, its mostly a matter of experimenting.


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## steamloco (Jul 18, 2017)

Thank you replying. I don't think that Solvaset will work with BLI engines. I have used it successfully with some Bachman lettering, but I am almost positive this is some kind of paint rather than a decal. I have even heard that brake fluid has been used. But that dissolves the rest of the paint as well. I don't have any painting equipment and really don't want to get involved. So if there were a way to remove lettering only....


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## QueenoftheGN (Dec 10, 2019)

Well you could just paint over it....


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## QueenoftheGN (Dec 10, 2019)

It sounds like the lettering is painted on so that might be the only way


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

Unfortunately, painting over the lettering is not the answer....you will always be able to see the outlines of the lettering under the paint.....the paint used for the lettering has a thickness that can't be eliminated by simply painting over it, you will always be able to see it......

The original lettering needs to be removed.....and it's not as easy as one might think it should be.....


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

FWIW, I've rarely seen a re-lettering job done without isopropyl alcohol, a toothbrush, and airbrush equipment.
Sorry.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

there are many things that will remove lettering, unfortunately most of them will remove paint also ..
there isn't any guarantee that they won't remove any paint, sorry ..
if i had the -same- make and model, i could probably say what won't likely remove paint, but i have never relettered that same make and model ..
if it actually is 'pad printing' it even reduces your options further ..


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## steamloco (Jul 18, 2017)

Thanks for all the input. Looks like it might be smart to leave well-enough-alone!


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

steamloco said:


> Thanks for all the input. Looks like it might be smart to leave well-enough-alone!


Well, ultimately, it's pretty tough to perfectly re-letter a factory paint job without a complete do-over. I have come fairly close. Using a micro brush 
and Testors Easy Lift Off (ELO ) I was able to remove the factory-painted numerals with minimal damage to the underlying / surrounding paint. Basically, use the brush to cover the lettering with ELO, wait a few minutes, and wipe it off. If it doesn't strip the lettering, let it sit a little longer. I was able to do this with only a few dings in the underlying paint. I touched these up with an airbrush and applied a decal with the new number over it.

You can tell it was done if you look closely, but it passes the "6 foot test".

Testors Easy Lift Off -- currently out of stock on Amazon, although other places have it.
https://www.amazon.com/Testors-4333063258-ELO-Remover-8oz/dp/B000BQSKQE

Microbrushes:
https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catag...2&u=0&pg=1&ppp=48&sb=stocknumber&so=a&man=FLX


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## steamloco (Jul 18, 2017)

Thanks CTV... gives me somethings to try...


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## billoberst (Sep 21, 2011)

Well all this time i've been using the 3 foot test, 6' seems an easier test to pass. I'm switching over to the 6' test right away. Bill


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

billoberst said:


> Well all this time i've been using the 3 foot test, 6' seems an easier test to pass. I'm switching over to the 6' test right away. Bill


It's all in the perspective!  

I used to agonize over tiny imperfections in paint... until I realized that things that were obvious under 8x magnification are invisible when looked at without magnification.


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## lovin it (Nov 21, 2012)

I used acetone to remove the lettering and numbers on several BLI steamers. Here are a couple of pictures of how it went.


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## lovin it (Nov 21, 2012)

I'll try again on the pictures.


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## lovin it (Nov 21, 2012)

I then airbrushed the tender and engine with paint and this is the result


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

lovin it said:


> I then airbrushed the tender and engine with paint and this is the result


Can't tell from here.
Looks good.


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## lovin it (Nov 21, 2012)

Here is a close-up of the tender with the new GN logo


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Nice job.
You did great!
FWIW, should that tender have 3-axle Buckeyes?


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

lovin it said:


> Here is a close-up of the tender with the new GN logo


Sacrelidge!!!! You have defiled a lovely NH tender with a Great Northern herald.


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## lovin it (Nov 21, 2012)

I gotta do what I gotta do. In my area I don't know if we ever heard of New Haven. lol

Also the Great Northern had some USRA Mikado's and they only had 4 wheel trucks. The later versions had 6 wheel trucks and in addition, the USRA engines were one of the few that did not have the belpaire fire boxes


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

lovin it said:


> Also the Great Northern had some USRA Mikado's and they only had 4 wheel trucks.


Maybe so, but IMO, that Mikado tender needs 3-axle Buckeyes or Commonwealths.


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

Check out this utube video on removing lettering.

Ed


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## steamloco (Jul 18, 2017)

Thanks all for the comments. Don't think the microsol method will work. I have tried it with some painted lettering and after a LOT of work and many applications ( I used someone's YouTube idea to hold the solvent in place with a paper towel while 30 minutes have gone by) it still struggles to get the PAINTED lettering and does remove paint underneath. I have successfully used it with engine Bachmann lettering, but again I think that is decals...even then it certainly did not come off as easily as this video shows. Not having an air brush, I really don't want to harm the paint below....in other words....I want it all...


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

steamloco said:


> Thanks all for the comments. Don't think the microsol method will work. I have tried it with some painted lettering and after a LOT of work and many applications ( I used someone's YouTube idea to hold the solvent in place with a paper towel while 30 minutes have gone by) it still struggles to get the PAINTED lettering and does remove paint underneath. I have successfully used it with engine Bachmann lettering, but again I think that is decals...even then it certainly did not come off as easily as this video shows. Not having an air brush, I really don't want to harm the paint below....in other words....I want it all...


You need a paint remover -- which Microsol isn't.

However, you don't need an airbrush to touch up the paint. It's easier, but a brush will work if you're using quality hobby paints which are the proper consistency. 

Basically, you're either going to leave it in its factory paint, or try to reletter it. I know what I'd do. You can't make an omelette without breaking some eggs.


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## Yoppeh7J-UPmp954 (Nov 23, 2014)

In 1945 Union Pacific bought 20 used second hand CO 2-8-8-2s and 5 from NW to help with the vast amount of freight traffic to support the final push in the war in the pacific. Photos show the rapidly applied repaint did not totally cover the original names and numbers.


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