# Help with DCC. Confused with Powercab vs PowercabR



## Commander Zarkon (Sep 24, 2021)

Hello!
I'm totally new to this and am somewhat confused. Looking to get an NCE Powercab or Powercab R. 

From what I understand, the Powercab R is better because I can walk around and control the trains without being wired in. Am I wrong?
I read this online and its a bit confusing...
"Understand that this means that you can use your PowerCab as a radio throttle on another radio-equipped NCE system (including the SB5). Your “radio” PowerCab will NOT be a base station for its own system. To use radio with a PowerCab, it must remain plugged in, a RB02 must be added, and one to three radio Cabs may be used."

The above statement seems to say that I will need something in addition to the Powercab R to run trains. Isn't the Powercab R the same as the Powercab except for not needing to be physically hooked up?

Will I need anything other than the PowercabR to run the trains?

Any guidance is appreciated.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

That's confusing for someone not at all familiar with the radio system. I do better with block diagrams.

I use a Powercab, but I didn't understand a word of that. Their technical writers leave something to be desired.


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## Commander Zarkon (Sep 24, 2021)

MichaelE said:


> That's confusing for someone not at all familiar with the radio system. I do better with block diagrams.
> 
> I use a Powercab, but I didn't understand a word of that. Their technical writers leave something to be desired.


Thank you! So it's not just me! 
I thought that the radio version would allow me to use it walking around, but they seem to be saying that the radio version has to be plugged in, which defeats the purpose. WTH?! 

Hopefully someone will come along and clear this up!


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## 65steam (Dec 18, 2019)

As I read it, the radio version can be added on to the standard version but cannot operate by itself.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

I'm certainly glad their writers didn't write technical manuals for the Boeing LGM-30F system.


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## Commander Zarkon (Sep 24, 2021)

Certainly seems that way, but doesn’t make sense. You can get the add on radio option for the wired one for like $160. So why would I pay more for a radio one that can’t work without the wired one, when I can get a radio module add on for less than half the price?
Something is off.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

Doesn't sound like they can even write their ad copy correctly.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

Good to see that it's not only Digitrax that gets dinged for abstruse syntax in its manuals.  

I 'read' it the same way, there has to be a digital marry-up between two components, one of them 'extra', in order to do tetherless walk-around.


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## Commander Zarkon (Sep 24, 2021)

MichaelE said:


> I'm certainly glad their writers didn't write technical manuals for the Boeing LGM-30F system.


“The Boeing 747 has an autopilot system but you must have a human pilot flying the plane for it to function. The pilot flying the plane must not be inebriated unless he can pass a breathalyzer test administered by ground crew before flight after he successfully flies and lands the plane.”


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## Commander Zarkon (Sep 24, 2021)




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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

So as I understand it, the WiFi is an add on, not a standalone system. You buy the Powercab, and that stays tethered to the layout, and then the WiFi unit and additional throttles (or use wifi-enabled devices). You need the tethered throttle because that's the brains of the unit, and it also serves as a "traffic cop" for the wireless units.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

If you say so. You're the only one to make sense of that convoluted gibberish.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

Commander Zarkon said:


> “The Boeing 747 has an autopilot system but you must have a human pilot flying the plane for it to function. The pilot flying the plane must not be inebriated unless he can pass a breathalyzer test administered by ground crew before flight after he successfully flies and lands the plane.”



Well yes, someone has to be there to give the A/P the parameters to follow depending upon the mode you are using. Same with auto-land. Early 747's didn't have this, but later models gad it installed. You still have to tell it minimums, field elevation, and enter the correct approach you are performing for the airport you are arriving to. That is all entered on the FMC. 

Then you can kick back for a Hofbräu...


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## 65446 (Sep 22, 2018)

*CZ*,
for a school room layout I'd keep it simple and go the original PowerCab with everything tethered. This will save costs and will never need battery changes or recharging...
The PowerCab remains always plugged into its own special panel and extra 'satellite' panels are daisy-chained around perimeter, coming from jacks in back of that main panel..
Smaller '06' throttles are able to be moved from panel to panel. Then, when you do have to unplug and walk to next panel, train it's addressed to does not 'see this' and remains running at same speed; all other tethered DCC trains not affected by each others individual throttle commands and panel changes..In other words: Each DCC loco has it's own unique address and thus can not interfere with the running of all other trains' addresses. 
But I think you know this already.....


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## Commander Zarkon (Sep 24, 2021)

telltale said:


> *CZ*,
> for a school room layout I'd keep it simple and go the original PowerCab with everything tethered. This will save costs and will never need battery changes or recharging...The PowerCab remains always plugged into its own special panel and extra 'satellite' panels are daisy-chained around perimeter, coming from that said panel..
> Smaller '06' throttles are able to be moved from panel to panel. Then, when you do have to unplug and walk to next panel, train it's addressed to does not 'see this' and remains running at same speed; all other tethered DCC trains not affected by each one's respective panel change...


OK, so the PowerCab stays tethered and smaller units can be plugged into the daisy chain? I saw where the PowerCab can't be unplugged without stopping the trains.
But it seems the 06 throttles cost even more than the Powercab. Doesn't make sense to me. Maybe I'm missing something. 
Are there alternatives to that? My issue is that walking around a room with a long tethered wire may become a PIA. 
If there were other ways to control the locomotives with that daisy chain setup it would be great.


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## Commander Zarkon (Sep 24, 2021)

OK so I read this:
"...if you already have an iPhone or iPod Touch and a wireless equipped Laptop, you can buy an NCE USB Adapter, install Decoder Pro, and then use WiThrottle on your iPhone or iPod Touch."

So it seems the best course of action is to get the PowerCab, then later I can use a laptop or pad to run other throttles.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

The basic Powercab I use cannot be unplugged from the fascia plate or all trains will stop. 

That's all I can tell you about that system. My layout is not large enough to justify a wireless walk-around cab system. Mainly because there is no where to walk to. The 7' cable/fascia plate centrally located in the middle of my 11'x13' layout can get you anywhere on the layout in my three access holes.


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## Commander Zarkon (Sep 24, 2021)

MichaelE said:


> The basic Powercab I use cannot be unplugged from the fascia plate or all trains will stop.
> 
> That's all I can tell you about that system. My layout is not large enough to justify a wireless walk-around cab system. Mainly because there is no where to walk to. The 7' cable/fascia plate centrally located in the middle of my 11'x13' layout can get you anywhere on the layout in my three access holes.


Seems like the regular one can later be adapted to work with a smart phone, tablet, or computer, so I may go that route.


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## cv_acr (Oct 28, 2011)

Commander Zarkon said:


> I thought that the radio version would allow me to use it walking around, but they seem to be saying that the radio version has to be plugged in, which defeats the purpose. WTH?!
> 
> Hopefully someone will come along and clear this up!


It's not super complicated, but you have to understand something fundamental:

The PowerCab is a standalone system, but ALSO can be used as a regular add-on throttle on a full NCE base station system. It's this context that is important.

The PowerCabR has radio support, which means it can be used as a wireless throttle *when used as an add-on throttle* on a full NCE system, if you have radio support added. (Radio base stations are an add-on.)

When used as an independent base station, the PowerCab(R) must remain physically plugged in and cannot be unplugged.

The NCE copy you pasted does state this; you just didn't know how to interpret this.



> Understand that this means that *you can use your PowerCab* as a radio throttle* on another radio-equipped NCE system* (including the SB5). Your “radio” PowerCab will NOT be a base station for its own system


It can be used as a radio throttle on a full system, but is not a base for a full radio system supporting other radio throttle.


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## Commander Zarkon (Sep 24, 2021)

Thank you for the clarification, CV!!!
Now that this is resolved, I'm going with the regular PowerCab!


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## cv_acr (Oct 28, 2011)

Commander Zarkon said:


> Thank you for the clarification, CV!!!
> Now that this is resolved, I'm going with the regular PowerCab!


Great!

The PowerCab is a great little introductory system. Yes, you'll be always tethered with it, but it's meant for a small layout.

The great thing about it is if you have friends or a club with a "full" NCE system, or you eventually upgrade, the PowerCab can be used as a standard throttle on the main system.

I have a PowerCab for my little switching layout at home, where it is the standalone system, acting as both throttle and base station. I can bring it to my club which has a full NCE system and plug it in as an extra throttle.

As a standalone, you're correct there's no difference between the PowerCab and PowerCabR; the difference lies in using it with an upgraded system.


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

CTValleyRR said:


> So as I understand it, the WiFi is an add on, not a standalone system. You buy the Powercab, and that stays tethered to the layout, and then the WiFi unit and additional throttles (or use wifi-enabled devices). You need the tethered throttle because that's the brains of the unit, and it also serves as a "traffic cop" for the wireless units.


Correct. The handheld throttle of the PowerCab system is the “booster,” unlike the… ProCab is it called? Unplug the PowerCab and you’re unplugging the DCC signal from its origin. The Radio system is a wireless extension, requiring a PowerCab to be plugged in somewhere.


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## cv_acr (Oct 28, 2011)

OilValleyRy said:


> Correct. The handheld throttle of the PowerCab system is the “booster,” unlike the… ProCab is it called? Unplug the PowerCab and you’re unplugging the DCC signal from its origin. The Radio system is a wireless extension, requiring a PowerCab to be plugged in somewhere.


Yes, but in the context of PowerCab vs. PowerCabR it's all about using the PowerCab as a normal ProCab on a full system, not as a base station. Also "booster" is really something different again from "base station", which is what the PowerCab functions as when on its own.


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## Commander Zarkon (Sep 24, 2021)

So it seems that buying a PowerCabR alone is pointless: I would have to keep it tethered. Seems like it would be better to get thae regular PowerCab, as you stated, and later upgrade to the wireless extension or what seems to be the ability to use it with a smart phone.


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## 65446 (Sep 22, 2018)

*CZ*:
The PowerCab is somewhere in the $170.00 area..The O6 units don't cost more than that !
They are somewhere in the $60.00 area, each.. And yes, the PowerCab is the brains for the whole layout and remains plugged in to it's special dedicated panel..At the rear of that panel there are jacks for separately purchased cables which connect up the simpler daisy-chained panels that the O6 walk around throttles plug into..
Start with the PowerCab and if trackage becomes too large for it's power ability you merely purchase a booster unit which easily connects in. Later for radio control..You doesn't need it.....
Build bench. Finalize track plan. Lay in ply sub-roadbed. Add cork or foam roadbed..
Lay some or all track..Hook up PCab throttle. See what's what..If OK, then continue...
Do some scenery..
Add some structures..
Have railroad / Run trains 
Datz it ! 🛤


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## Mixed Freight (Aug 31, 2019)

Commander Zarkon said:


> To use radio with a PowerCab, it must remain plugged in, a RB02 must be added, and one to three radio Cabs may be used."


Hey Commander Zarkon,

You can still go radio on your system if desired. With an RB02 (Radio Base, newest version 2.1), you can use up to 3 radio 06r engineer cabs. Your PowerCab will still function as a tethered throttle (which must always remain plugged in), and you could have up to 3 radio throttles along with it, for a total of 4 throttles. The radio throttles can also be tethered to extend battery life, or in case the batteries die during an operating session.


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## 65446 (Sep 22, 2018)

*PS*
I just went to Ebay and found my concept of NCE prices is old !! Yes, it's all gone way up since I purchased mine..


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## 65446 (Sep 22, 2018)

*Juz one mo* !
In my experience having the bench (grid) high up does 2 helpful things:
1) Puts trains so as to be seeing them nearly toward their sides, the way we see the 1:1 scale 97% the time, in turn enhancing the plausibility/realism of the scene..(Looking down on them is more a bird's eye view if you like that more).
2) Makes it easier to get underneath bench for all kinds of jobs..(Pushing yourself backwards using a small, armless office chair (doing 360 spins to boot ! Wheeeeee !) works well for these........ 'caucasional-sub-train-ean'-excursions !


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## cv_acr (Oct 28, 2011)

Telltale, I think you’re replying to the wrong thread somehow. I don’t know how you got to benchwork height from anything in the thread.


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## Commander Zarkon (Sep 24, 2021)

LOL!
Now that I’ve decided to get the regular PowerCab, I guess discussing bench height is OK.
I do agree about the bench height though. I’m deciding between about 48” to 56” high.
I may also do a shelf as another level, maybe to about 7 feet or so over the door and crossing overhead. Have thought of a “rock” formation jutting out each side bridged by a trestle.
But I have to get this first part done!

Putting that horse back in front of the cart now.,,


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## 65446 (Sep 22, 2018)

cv_acr said:


> Telltale, I think you’re replying to the wrong thread somehow. I don’t know how you got to benchwork height from anything in the thread.


Because I've been in close contact with him where I've already discussed all the NCE PowerCab questions he had/has and so just thought I'd toss the bench height thing in knowing he would read it (which he has, above) as opposed to a completely new thread on bench height... 🛤🌵


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## Commander Zarkon (Sep 24, 2021)

Will be getting wood to start the open grid sometime next week (1x4x8). I will be placing the grid on top of my classroom cabinets and some shelves. Some are a cabinet bottom and shelf top, so I removed the shelf unit and used it on the ground, so art stuff will be stored beneath the layout. This will work well to use up as much room as possible for the layout while still keeping all the storage.

Ordered the switches and the PowerCab yesterday, so I'm getting closer to getting this started and going. Based on advice here, I will build the layout grid, then the track base with the grades etc., testing the track with a locomotive as I go, and so on. I'll take pictures and post them as I go. I have a lot of ideas and my mind is way ahead of where I'm at, but that's part of the artist mind I guess. It's very enjoyable seeing it all in my head and working towards getting it into reality. I go to bed and fall asleep building the different parts in my mind.


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## 65446 (Sep 22, 2018)

If you have very long sections don't hesitate to use 12' or even 16' stringers..Sometimes one long one will become like a center spine with cross members coming off either side. Of course you can make smaller sections of grid work bolted to one another.
Eventually you will have a big boxy grid for the whole RR and begin risers, and sub roadbed cut out with the jig saw... 
Again, you can put lowest altitude track/SRB right down on grid. But better to have even it raised a few inches everywhere, on risers....
Reminder: Make sections of grid boxes large enough to accommodate a drill-driver and the screw it's driving, tho sometimes adding a riser or X-member just has to be done by hand.
Let the fun begin !


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