# Stretching or Compressing Foam Incline sets?



## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

I was looking at the Woodland Scenic Incline sets. They seem like a nice fast, consistent and fairly affordable way to build an incline. I haven't done the exact measurements, but my math estimation says that there will be around a 2.5% incline from my upper to lower loops as seen in my plan here:
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=146993&page=3

I notice that Woodland scenics only comes in 2 and 3 percent grades. My question is this. Could I stretch a 3% grade set or compress a 2% to make it 2.5%?

My other option is just to go with 3% and let the resulting height of the inner loop be that much taller and more dramatic. This appeals to me and I've got more than enough foam to do that, but will 3% be problematic for operating my trains? They probably won't be longer than 10 cars or so, but I don't want to get stuck with a grade that causes problems.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Eilif said:


> I was looking at the Woodland Scenic Incline sets. They seem like a nice fast, consistent and fairly affordable way to build an incline. I haven't done the exact measurements, but my math estimation says that there will be around a 2.5% incline from my upper to lower loops as seen in my plan here:
> http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=146993&page=3
> 
> I notice that Woodland scenics only comes in 2 and 3 percent grades. My question is this. Could I stretch a 3% grade set or compress a 2% to make it 2.5%?
> ...


You're right that they are good products, but they only work for even numbers. Despite their slinky-like appearance, they don't really expand or contract much (perhaps 1/4" over a 2' length), not enough to noticeably change the slope. The cuts in the sides are to allow it to flex underneath flex track.

If you have a good table saw or band saw, you CAN cut a 3% piece down to a 2.5%. The foam is dense enough to be cut in that manner, and the beads are small enough that there is minimal tearout.

Otherwise, you will have to create your own template and carve extruded foam, or use Masonite, lauan plywood, or other thin sturdy subroadbed to make the incline.


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## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

Good to know, thanks!
I don't have a good table or bandsaw so if I don't go prefab I'll have to cut alot of risers. 

How problematic do you think it would be if I just went with a 3% grade. I'm not too worried about the look of it as not only is the layout itself not overly realistic, about half of the rise will be hidden in a mountain.

One other option. The Atlas trestle set has about a 2.6% rise which would be perfect. Any reason I couldn't simply use that for support and guide and then model ground and such around it? Used sets are phenomenally cheap on ebay.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

An important factor when installing an incline on your
layout is to provide for gradual grade change at the
lower and upper ends of the incline. 

This is to avoid digging into the ties by the front 
coupler at the bottom...and to avoid the front wheels
lifting off the track at the upper end.

This is best accomplished using flex track and allowing
it to form a gradual change of grade. 

Don


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## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

DonR said:


> An important factor when installing an incline on your
> layout is to provide for gradual grade change at the
> lower and upper ends of the incline.
> 
> ...


Thanks!
I'll definitely be using flex track for the incline. I think this current plan allows enough length to allow for a smooth transition at both ends. I'm pretty set on Flex Track for the lower track and the incline. I'll be using EZ track on the upper track except for the switch going to the decline and possibly some of the inner switches. 

Do you think a 3% grade with such transitions at both ends is functionally (if not realistically) sound?


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

3%, with proper easements, is usually fine for our small models.

The only thing I would be worried about using a trestle set or similar is supporting the track underneath. That's why I suggested a subroadbed material.


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## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

CTValleyRR said:


> 3%, with proper easements, is usually fine for our small models.
> 
> The only thing I would be worried about using a trestle set or similar is supporting the track underneath. That's why I suggested a subroadbed material.


Thanks! If I used the trestle I'd probably use it as a guide to support a hardboard sub-road. 

I rather like the idea of a fully supported track, an easier build process and a slightly higher raised section. I think a 3% foam set would accomplish all that so I'll probaly go that way.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Eilif said:


> Thanks! If I used the trestle I'd probably use it as a guide to support a hardboard sub-road.
> 
> I rather like the idea of a fully supported track, an easier build process and a slightly higher raised section. I think a 3% foam set would accomplish all that so I'll probaly go that way.


Just remember to create an easement, either by sections of shallower grade at each end, or using the natural curve of flextrack laid across the transition.


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## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

CTValleyRR said:


> Just remember to create an easement, either by sections of shallower grade at each end, or using the natural curve of flextrack laid across the transition.


I'll definitely be incorporating and easement.


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