# Best equipment for weathering



## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Essential handbrushes*

_FOR STARTERS:_
Quality Spotter or Liner brushes...
Sizes #0, #2, #3/0.









Quality Grainer brushes...
Sizes 1/8", 1/4", 3/8"... possibly up to 1/2".















I advise synthetic bristle, (e.g., nylon) for acrylic paint.
Get your brushes at an art supply store.
If you intend to do good weathering, don't mess around with cheap knockoff (dollar store) brushes.
_And for gosh sakes, learn how to 'drybrush'!_ There are dozens of YouTube tutorials.
BTW, the primary cardinal rule... _KEEP YOUR BRUSHES CLEAN!_

*Airbrush*
_An airbrush is absolutely essential for bottom weathering and fading._
Get the best you can afford, e.g., Badger, Iwata, Paasche, etc.
Research the brands, and decide on Single Action or Double... Siphon or Gravity feed.
Practice on scrap wood, styrene, etc, before trying it on a model.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

FWIW, this type of weathering is not possible without an airbrush.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

i juat use an airbrush, a cheapy badger single action, i do have brushes but use them for washes only, rather big brushes ..


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

I haven't even gotten the air brush out yet... This winter...

Although I wouldn't mind building an "over spray catch" ... As it's going to be too cold here for outside painting.

Obviously a large cardboard box might suffice. A fan based one is technically appealing but I don't know exactly the right and wrong way. I'm sure the internet had info.

Sucking the paint through the motor would be bad.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

If your only painting acrylics, then there is no "explosive" Problem and just put a furnace filter across the exhaust path before it gets to the fan!


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

well dullcote or other sprays maybe some ... but yeah mostly acrylics. i was just assuming you had the motor outside the box and a belt to the fan itself. but don't really know. (and a baffle or as you say filter in front of it to keep the fan blades somewhat dry... ) having said all that, that sounds like a small project. and id like an even smaller one.


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## Stumpy (Mar 19, 2013)

I've been considering one of these.... https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Portable-Lighting-Extension/dp/B00NLQ019A

... because I don't want to build one either. And the turntable is a nice benefit.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Although I consider a turntable essential, it isn't a requirement.
A 'stand vise' or pin clips, or vise clips can suffice for awhile... only drawback is it'll need cleaning after a few uses, whereas a turntable never requires cleaning if you top it with a wax paper disk.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Cardinal Rule*
Store your brushes flat, or (preferably) bristles-UP.
This is the "Brush Crate", a 5" diameter brush holder, sold at art supply stores ($9) and at Amazon for $7 more.
For the photo, I set it on my 7-1/2 inch high grade spray-hood ballbearing turntable, but I recently rubber-cemented it on a cheap ($5) Cedmon 6" rotating disk (bottom photo).
This is the bulk of my entire brush inventory, with additional large Flat Washes up to 2-inch that I use for base-painting large areas of scenery. Almost all of these are synthetic (for acrylics).


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Two of the most popular brushes for model painting are the Filbert and the pointed Round.
Although not well suited for fine detailing, they excel (along with the Grainer and Flat Wash) at drybrush weathering on rolling stock, locomotives, and structures.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*For finescale thin 'drip' lines*...
A Spotter or Liner brush is great for making rainwash drip effects.
They come in very small sizes, and with a standoff straight-edge (and some practice) will make very straight thin lines.
Use the drybrush method for fade out effects.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Airbrushing*_
The most expensive part of weathering._

Yep, no getting around it...
If you're gonna paint or weather with an airbrush, it'll likely be costly.

Airbrush, airbrush holder, hoses, compressor, sprayout pot, and possibly a hood (plus outdoor venting for enamels & lacquers) and a turntable.

One way to economize is to get a few cans of airbrush propellant, so you can save up for a compressor.
*Propel* used to be economical, but since Badger took it over, it's no longer affordable (up to $22 per can).
_Testors Aztek_ seems to be about the lowest price ($6 for a 6-oz can). I did it that way for almost 12 years, until I could afford a compressor. The cans don't last very long, so you'll need to keep a few on hand.
Research online, to see what attachment accessories you'll need.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Airbrushes*
I am loath to recommend any brand of airbrush, for the simple reason that the choice is rather personal.
Many modelers have grown accustomed to the one they use, and will stick with it through thick and thin.

So me recommending a Badger, while you have an Iwata or Paasche, won't lend much credence to my suggestion.
You should go with what you like, and stick with it.

Furthermore, I won't recommend a _type_ of airbrush... e.g., double vs single action, or syphon vs gravity, for the very same reason.
If you haven't yet made your choice, I do recommend some online research.
------------------------------
This is the old Badger 150 that I used until 2015.
When I finally got the modern Patriot, (plus a compressor) a whole new world opened up. I could now regulate constant reliable pressure, and have it with the flick of a switch.
The only trade-off is a little noise... I just crank up the stereo.


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

My favorite go-to airbrush is a cheap Harbor Freight single action that I got for around $6 with a coupon.
3/4 And 3 Oz. Airbrush Kit (harborfreight.com) 

If it ever dies I'll replace it with the Badger it's a knock-off of. Badger 350 (badgerairbrush.com) 
But it just won't die! I suppose if I ran harsh cleaners and solvents through it I could probably kill it, but all I use are acrylics, with plain water for cleanup.
My compressor came from Menards. It's a discontinued model, but it's the one in this video.
Masterforce® Ultra-Quiet 1.8-Gallon Portable Air Compressor (sound review) - YouTube 

They currently sell a 2.0 gallon model.
Masterforce® Ultra-Quiet 2-Gallon 135 PSI Portable Electric Horizontal Air Compressor at Menards® 

Hey, Christmas is coming! Time to start dropping some hints for Santa! Knowhutimean, Vern?
I built my own paint booth.
Building an airbrush paint booth | ModelRailroadForums.com 

On 12-19-20 I'll be 6 weeks post-op from my recent hospital "visit", so I can lift it up onto the workbench! It usually resides underneath.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

I was imagining a cardboard box with a dc muffin fan mounted in the back of it. Maybe an air filter in front of it -- as the most basic setup with a fan that could work with air brushes and acrylics... ?


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

You would need a little baffling in front of the filter so the fan doesn't get all the paint and the parts are moving around while trying to paint them.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Spray-out pot*
Whether you have a hood or not, you'll need a dispensary for paint left in the cup, and to catch spray-out for cleaning.

There are better ones, (I have the Iwata Universal... $20) but this one's from Central Pneumatic for $8.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Regarding the compressor problem... many (many many) moons ago when I got my airbrush, my solution was to pick up a fairly cheap 5 gallon air tank from Kmart. I then fitted it with an adjustable regulator (a cheap unit that simply has a dial to change the pressure), and an adapter to connect the airbrush hose to the tank. It looks like you could build the same rig today from Harbor Freight for about $40. To charge it up I used a cheap tire pump that plugs into your car (which we already had around). Fill the tank to about 100psi, set the regulator for about 20psi, and you can get air for quite awhile without any noise inside the house.


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

Had a friend who used to build and paint car models.....he used an old worn out car tire mounted on a steel wheel, pressured up to the max....he had an unlimited amount of air....nice and silent too!

It appeared to do a very good job, as I remember, from 45 years ago.....


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

LateStarter do you have a small airbrush paint booth? If so what size is it?
Ed


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

If you want stuff that'll approach mind blowing realism, look up _AK Interactive._
It's mostly intended for military model weathering, but perfectly suitable for model railroading.
It takes practice to master some of it, but the results can make models look astoundingly real.


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## Stumpy (Mar 19, 2013)

If you want a quiet compressor this one is the ticket. I bought it because I needed a small, portable compressor (_really_ portable not the 75 lb. "portable" compressor I have in my shop), so I wasn't paying any attention to the "quiet" aspect, but it is - surprisingly so. You can be in the same room with it while it's running and carry on a normal conversation.




https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-QUIET-TECH-2-Gallon-Single-Stage-Portable-Electric-Hot-Dog-Air-Compressor/1001014016


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

EdC said:


> LateStarter do you have a small airbrush paint booth? If so what size is it?
> Ed


I have a Master brand booth (with LED lighting).
It's about 16" wide by 19" deep.


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

Stumpy said:


> If you want a quiet compressor this one is the ticket. I bought it because I needed a small, portable compressor (_really_ portable not the 75 lb. "portable" compressor I have in my shop), so I wasn't paying any attention to the "quiet" aspect, but it is - surprisingly so. You can be in the same room with it while it's running and carry on a normal conversation.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I was actually considering that one as well, but since the one I did buy was a closeout from Menards I actually got a better deal on it. Plus an 11% in store credit. That Kobalt does look like a nice compressor, though!


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## Stumpy (Mar 19, 2013)

LateStarter said:


> If you want stuff that'll approach mind blowing realism, look up _AK Interactive._


Vallejo also makes all sorts of canned (jarred?) mud, grime, etc.






Vallejo Weathering Effects


The Weathering Effects range has been developed to represent the effects of time and weather on models and dioramas.




acrylicosvallejo.com


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

LateStarter said:


> I have a Master brand booth (with LED lighting).
> It's about 16" wide by 19" deep.


Do you feel that 16" is wide enough for HO scale models?
Ed


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

One thing I can definitely recommend is a compressor:
The *Master TC-20T*.
It's fairly quiet, fairly small, and for the most part super reliable.
Customer Service is about as good as it gets...
My original had a leaky tank.
They sent me a new replacement free of charge, without requiring return of the original.
About a foot long, a foot high, and 6 inches wide. Weighs 10 lbs.
[Edit]: added photo...


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

EdC said:


> Do you feel that 16" is wide enough for HO scale models?
> Ed


Absolutely!


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Airbrush holder*
Almost forgot...
If you have an airbrush, you'll need a place to put it when you're done, or take a short pause, or when you want to use both hands.
You can't just lay an active gravity-feed airbrush on the bench.

Some will hold 6 airbrushes... but why?!
Prices vary. This one's by HS (pricey, but I love it).
The Master holder is also excellent ($10). You want one that tilts.
Don't get the SparMax at HobbyLobby... they're missing parts.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Stumpy said:


> Vallejo also makes all sorts of canned (jarred?) mud, grime, etc.


Been using some of those for years...
But I usually rely on Vallejo _Brown Sand_ as a starter.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Brush cleaners for acrylics*
Cardinal Rule:
_Brushes have to remain clean!_
If you use acrylic paints, cleanup is generally easy with plain water.
But these cleaners will also condition and revive them, and keep them like new.

These two are the most popular and effective:
The Masters brand (soapy paste) is the most economical, and comes in 1-oz jars for $4. There's also 2.5-oz jars.
24-oz tubs for $20.
It's also available in bar form.

Anita's comes in a 2-oz bottle for $3 at HobbyLobby.

[Edit]:
Pink Soap and Mona Lisa are also popular... but I've not tried them.
However, I do know that bottles of Pink Soap will leak in the mail.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Coil-hose for convenience, plus*_
Not expensive, and very worthwhile._

If you replace the standard braided airbrush hose with a polyurethane coil-hose, your airbrush life will be easier.
Not only is it less of a pain-in-the-neck, but it's much less fatiguing on your wrist.
Five feet long when collapsed... expands to 25 feet. Swivel end.
$15 at Lowe's.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Stumpy said:


> Vallejo also makes all sorts of canned (jarred?) mud, grime, etc.


BTW, many military paints, e.g.,Vallejo and AK Interactive, are not only very appropriate, but extremely useful for model railroading.
There's literally an endless number of useful colors and tones to represent dirt, mud, oil, grease, rust, and grime... even dirty snow.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

FWIW, you only need an airbrush for _bottom weathering_ on locomotives and rolling stock. Airbrushed bottom weathering will make the whole project 'pop'.
Ends, sides, and roofs can usually be done with drybrushing.
However, an airbrush is highly essential for weathering structure roofs and exterior walls.


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## Jscullans (Jul 8, 2019)

I was doing trim in my house when my old testors compressor quit. Fortunately for me I also “had” to buy a small porter cable compressor to use the trim nail guns I also “had” to buy to get the job done. $200 at Home Depot and a couple days later I was airbrushing a model downstairs when my wife busted me and it all came together why I needed the air compressor. She used the old statement of me buying a snow blower for her for Christmas a few years ago then asking to borrow it as an example. Multiple motives always get you caught hahahahaha


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Got an early Christmas present...
Another Master hood, for "doublewide" spraying.
32 inches of elbow room!


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Military model paints*
My introduction to Vallejo and AK paints came with my fondness of building and weathering 1/35th & 1/48th scale WWII U.S. military aircraft and armor.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

These are my favorite four Vallejo paint colors to start the basic weathering process with.
Individually, or in blended combinations, they will almost certainly make a sensible foundation for bottom weathering, dirt, mud, rust, age, wear-and-tear, and even rot.
_Sand Gray
Dark Earth
Tan Earth
Earth Brown_

Blend-ratios of these, or with small amounts of white, black, or light grays can render an infinite variety of tones and shades.

Just remember that rust and corrosion get _darker_ with age. New rust is a lighter color than old. The oldest rust (and wood-rot) can be almost black.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

For painting wheels, you have two or three choices...
You can do it by hand with a small brush, or you can spray them, and then remove paint from the treads and axle points.
Tape or a masking medium are not practical.

_Or -- you could use an AMB Wheel Mask._ Full disclosure... I haven't yet tried one.

They're available online for about $10... $20 at MicroMark.
They're somewhat brand specific, e.g., Kadee, InterMountain, Tangent, Reboxx, etc. One may not be appropriate for another, although I've heard that some might cross-fit. MicroMark indicates theirs fits three brands.
They're also _size_ specific... 33" or 36".


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## Stumpy (Mar 19, 2013)

LateStarter said:


> they will almost certainly make a sensible foundation for bottom weathering, dirt, mud, rust, age, wear-and-tear, and even rot.


Based on your comment on the "detailing the underbody" thread I assume when you say "bottom weathering" you're referring to weathering the lower part of the side & trucks and not the underbody?

I have some of those tiny Valley-Joe Air bottles, but I have not used them yet. It doesn't seem like they'd go very far.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Stumpy said:


> ... I assume when you say "bottom weathering" you're referring to weathering the lower part of the side & trucks and not the underbody?


Yes, "bottom weathering" refers to weathering the lower parts of the sides and ends... not the underbodies.

It can be effectively subtle, in which case it should only be attempted with an airbrush.so it can be faded out.
Or it can be sobering and severe, with stark demarcation, in which case drybrushing techniques can work well.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*TruckTune last*
These Athearn truckframes were handbrush-weathered thoroughly with the wheels in place, since I'd already TruckTuned them once before.
Unprimed raw acrylic paint is easy to remove from wheels, but not from bearing cones.
Re-doing a TruckTune is something I try to avoid. If done just once too often it can, in my experience, create 'slop'.

Do your TruckTuning afterwards, or stay well away from the cones.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*If you use paint, you need this*
_Badger Paint Mixer.
Battery powered._

'Shaking' just moves paint back and forth... it doesn't really mix things up that well, and pigment needs to be blended throughout the entire mixture.
The _Badger Mixer_ works best to mix paint completely.
It _blends_ the paint, and forces all the pigment upward in a tornadic swirl.

Just pay attention and be careful... some folks forget to shut it off before pulling it out of the bottle. You'll have a tie-dyed shirt in a blink.

[Edit]:
It won't fit the small necks of Vallejo bottles.
The best solution is to drop in a few #10 stainless steel nuts,* and store it on its side.
_* They may not look like it, but they're polluted with manufacturing oils. Wash them thoroughly in hot soapy water (and rinse well) before putting them in acrylic paint!_
The nuts will sufficiently blend-in the pigments when shaken thoroughly.


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

LateStarter said:


> *If you use paint, you need this*
> _Badger Paint Mixer.
> Battery powered._
> 
> ...


As Justin Wilson used to say "I gair-on-tee!"


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Eye droppers & pipettes*
In order to replicate a custom color, or repeat a mix you like, you'll definitely need these.
You can get a hundred for $15.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Filberts, Grainers, and Cat's Tongues

Filbert*_ brushes are the biggest sellers at art supply stores,
In model railroading they're very handy for painting structures... and for drybrush weathering.
They're available in sizes down to 1/8th inch, but I have a couple of 1/16th inch that I got on special order.
*Filbert Grainer* brushes are also in sizes down to 1/8th inch, and are excellent for drybrushing streaks, e.g., rain rust drippings. I've used all sizes, up to 1/2-inch.
*Cat's Tongue* brushes are good for finer lines... almost as good as a Spotter brush.
They come in sizes down to #0, but smaller ones are available if you look.
[Note]: PRACTICE!





















_


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Expensive brushes*_
Not as important as quality.

Note -- the best (and most expensive) Kolinsky sable is harvested from the tails of male Siberian kolinsky weasels._

Your brushes don't need to be expensive... just good quality.
If you get your brushes from a hardware or dollar store, don't expect great results.

All my brushes were purchased from an art supply store, or online from Jerry's or Blicks. You'll get great advice from a conversation with the right person in an art supply store.
In my collection, I have all high-quality brushes, but only two expensive ones... they're Kolinsky sables -- a #1 Rigger, and a #2 Round.
Both are my goto brushes for doing fineline drybrushing like streaks and drips on car sides, locomotive shells, exterior structure walls, bridge piers, etc.
There may be a few brushes in the World as good as a Kolinsky sable... but none are better.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Aging wood*_
From weathered to outright rot._

There are lots of wood-weathering products on the market, e.g., MicroMark _"Age-It EASY"_, etc... I'm not a fan. They leave a lot to be desired, and aren't cheap or economical.

If you want to make raw or exposed wood look weathered, you might try India ink & Isopropyl alcohol.
_Use "non waterproof" ink, or it won't end well!_

A simple ratio of 1 teaspoon of ink per pint of IPA is standard.
You can increase the ratio or apply subsequent applications. You can also premix stronger ratios, and easily store them away. I prefer to work on an "as needed" basis.

This is part of a basswood O scale model I did a few years ago. Some areas got more treatment than others:


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Storing Vallejo paints*_
(it's a neck-size thing)._

Vallejo, AK, and MiG jar-necks are too small for a Badger Mixer.
Those who know better drop a few washed & rinsed #10 stainless steel nuts in the jars, and rattle-shake them vigorously to mix up the pigment.
In addition, you might try storing Vallejo jars on their sides, which allows any settling pigment to disperse along a broader area within the jar, thus making the 'rattle-shake' process a bit quicker and easier.

To aid in identification, mark the jar bottoms with a fine Sharpie, or a dab of well-mixed paint (a dried dab may look different than what you see through the plastic bottle). I recommend hitting these dabs with a shot of DullCote, so it'll completely represent the finished raw product
Use the same ID method for your premixed blends stored in glass paint jars.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Can't emphasize it enough...
These are your friends.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_Airbrushes_...
You don't need a fancy or expensive airbrush. You DO need a QUALITY airbrush.
You can find a fairly nice one at art supply stores for around $20.

Just make sure you know what you want... single or double action; gravity or syphon. There are pros and cons. Do some online research.

I have two quality airbrushes... a Badger-Patriot, ($65) and an incredible HS Infinity (over $200). _You do not need to spend that much on an airbrush!_
My original Badger-150 was $20 in 1975, and I used it for 40 years until 2015.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

The 'overcap' cups on DayQuil and NyQuil bottles are the same as any hobby paint cup.
My grandson has my whole family (extended included) conditioned to save them for me.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

LateStarter said:


> The 'overcap' cups on DayQuil and NyQuil bottles are the same as any hobby paint cup.
> My grandson has my whole family (extended included) conditioned to save them for me.


You can also buy about 200 of those little plastic cups that restaurants use for salad dressing and other condiments for a couple of bucks. Lids are sold separately, so you can get them or not, at your option. In my experience, a lid on one of these is ok to store paint for a few days before it dries out. Very convenient if your project runs into several days.


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## Stumpy (Mar 19, 2013)

I use the clear plastic 9 oz. solo-type cups. A double layer of plastic (Saran) wrap over the top and "sealed" with a rubber band will keep paint for a good while. If you don't get a name brand (Solo) they're very inexpensive.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Badger mixer tip*
FWIW, one way to prevent a paint tornado is to place a toilet paper roll over the bottle before inserting the mixer paddle.
You can easily squeeze the roll against the bottle to hold it steady.
This will offset the dreaded brain-burp of withdrawing the paddle before you shut it off.
It happens more often than you might think, yet I've seen nothing on the internet or YouTube warning about it.


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

LateStarter said:


> This will offset the dreaded brain-burp of withdrawing the paddle before you shut it off.
> It happens more often than you might think, yet I've seen nothing on the internet or YouTube warning about it.


At 51:40 Ken Schlotfeldt, the owner of Badger Airbrush company, tells the story of how he "redecorated" one of his ties.


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## The IC Mailman (Sep 19, 2020)

LateStarter said:


> *Airbrushing*
> _The most expensive part of weathering._
> 
> Yep, no getting around it...
> ...


I used to use the canned propellant to air brush but it ends up freezing up and dropping pressure. Bought a Paasche D500 compressor and Paasche airbrush set that came with everything needed for my wife to craft with but I've been using it for my trains and I've been pretty happy with that as it provides a consistent pressure. Probably cheaper than the cans in the long run if you're doing a lot of painting. The airbrush is very sentivive to the mix with acrylic paint--more so than with oil based model paints. 

BTW, Late Starter, really appreciate the advice on brushes! I'm getting back into the hobby after a 20 year layoff and want to weather my running gear for a more realistic look.


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## Patrick1544 (Apr 27, 2013)

Best equipment is a keen eye and a few paint brushes.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

The IC Mailman said:


> ... Bought a Paasche D500 compressor and Paasche airbrush set that came with everything needed for my wife to craft with but I've been using it for my trains and I've been pretty happy with that as it provides a consistent pressure. Probably cheaper than the cans in the long run if you're doing a lot of painting. The airbrush is very sentivive to the mix with acrylic paint--more so than with oil based model paints.


Paasche equipment is very good, and the sets they offer are well priced.
You did good!


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Thinned paint*
_You can pour it back, or not._
But think about it.

If you thin your paint (acrylic, enamel, or whatever) for a specific job, and then pour the remainder back in the original bottle, you've essentially just thinned the entire batch.
I've seen folks do this.

Think about that vs putting it in a separate (labeled) glass jar for later use.

Thinning once, then again, and again, etc, will eventually draw diminished returns.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*My favorite spray-acrylics*
_For a variety of reasons._

My top three favorite acrylics for spraying are from personal experience, and are not intended to disparage any others.
Listed in order of coverage, adhesion, and 'sprayability':
*Vallejo Air
ModelFlex
Tamiya*

I've also had good results with *Mission*, although their thinning requirements are a little more tricky.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Primers*
As a rule, I like enamel primers.
They adhere like glue, and are tough as nails.
Besides, I was set in my ways.

My favorite, *Testors ModelMaster* is sadly being discontinued, along with most of the ModelMaster line.
So I had to find another favorite.
Little did I know, that two acrylics would rear their heads:

*Badger Stynylrez*:
PRO'S: Acrylic urethane. Sprays like a dream. Dries very smooth. Available in 18 colors; 2 to 32oz bottles. Adheres well to all surfaces. Good finish-coat retention. Superb coverage. Brushable. _Excellent primer!_
CON'S: Minimum 20psi. Needs to be thinned for 0.5mm nozzles or less. Mostly only available at online outlets. I've only found 2oz Light Gray and Black on LHS shelves.

*Tamiya* (White & Light Gray):
PRO'S: Sprays on very smooth. Effortless. Good finish-coat retention. Thin coats reveal the slightest imperfections (for sanding). Quick drying. Good general duty "go-to" primer. Also available in rattle cans.
CON'S: Doesn't hide much. Not a good choice over starkly contrasting colors, e.g., yellow stripes on black. Average adhesion. 180ml can doesn't always empty completely. Not economical.
[Note]: _White is labeled "Fine", while gray is not. I find no difference between them._

If you need to, you can substitute hardware brands:

GENERAL PURPOSE PRIMERS:
*Krylon* ColorMaster (Red Oxide, Alkyd):
PRO'S: Available everywhere. Comparatively inexpensive. Excellent coverage. Dries very smooth. Good adhesion. Sprays evenly. Quick drying. _Excellent base color to simulate brick before wiping-in mortar!... (mortar after DullCote)._
CON'S: Needs continuous rattle-shaking to stay mixed. Finish-coat retention is so-so.

*Rust-Oleum* (Automotive, Gray, Oil Based).
PRO'S: Available everywhere. Comparatively inexpensive. Good coverage. Good adhesion. Superb on metal. Sprays evenly. More durable than Krylon. Fairly quick drying.*
CON'S: Finish-coat retention is so-so. *Slower drying than Krylon.


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## The IC Mailman (Sep 19, 2020)

LateStarter said:


> Paasche equipment is very good, and the sets they offer are well priced.
> You did good!
> View attachment 552088


Thanks! She was happy with it but has rarely used it. Nice to have it when I got back into the train hobby this past summer. It's all COVID's fault! Glad to have re-found a fun hobby.


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## The IC Mailman (Sep 19, 2020)

LateStarter said:


> *Primers*
> As a rule, I like enamel primers.
> They adhere like glue, and are tough as nails.
> Besides, I was set in my ways.
> ...


That's some great information! Also sad to see Testors drop a good line. I've used their model paints for decades.


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## Stumpy (Mar 19, 2013)

LateStarter said:


> *Cardinal Rule*
> Store your brushes flat, or (preferably) bristles-UP.
> This is the "Brush Crate", a 5" diameter brush holder, sold at art supply stores ($9) and at Amazon for $7 more.
> For the photo, I set it on my 7-1/2 inch high grade spray-hood ballbearing turntable, but I recently rubber-cemented it on a cheap ($5) Cedmon 6" rotating disk (bottom photo).
> ...


This is my "brush crate". I think it's the packing material that was around one end of a disk drive.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Acrylic washes*_
Weathering's 'extra touch'._

Acrylic washes are not only handy, they're also easy to use.
They can be wiped-on, brushed-on, or sprayed.
They're useful on wood and DullCote'd styrene. Terrible on unDullCote'd paper or card stock.

Blacks, Whites, and Grays are the most useful, but I've used others, including Tans and Moss Green.

My favorite use is for creating brickwork-mortar and mold.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Bottom-weathering on locomotives*
_Subtlety preferred._

Today's railroads have a much better regimen of maintenance than transition era roads like I model.
Although I appreciate 'monster-weathering' on freightcars, locomotives were almost always a different story.
IMO, the heartbeat of a railroad should be regularly maintained, more or less rust-free, and at least washed from time to time.
'Bottom-weathering' is my preference for locomotives, and in a mild manner.

This extensively customized Bachmann 44ton was bottom weathered to simulate a few weeks of duty, in a dusty environment (e.g., deck-hips and body underpanels).
Except for the usual rust on truckframes, pilot areas, and couplers, I didn't try to replicate any other long-term maladies.
_... and yes, weathering couplers does come with risks._

Unfortunately for some, subtle bottom weathering can only be accomplished with an airbrush.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Further thought on Vallejo paints*
Since Vallejo, MiG, and AK bottle necks are too narrow for a Badger Mixer, you might wonder, "Why not just pour the whole bottle into a glass paint jar?"

That sounds like a great idea.
However, in doing so, whatever paint is still left in the bottle contains a precious amount of pigment, which since it may not have been thoroughly mixed, may still hold a large amount by ratio.
_Pigment is what does the job._ Reducing the pigment by as little as 3% can alter a paint's color or shade significantly.

_Repeat advice:_
Three washed and rinsed #10 stainless steel nuts in the bottle will 'rattle-shake' and blend the pigment just fine if done vigorously enough.
_... and store Vallejo-type bottles on their sides._


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Build a cheap rack for Vallejo paints*
_To store them horizontally._

1.) Collect lots of toilet paper tubes.
2.) Paint or urethane (inside & out) to stiffen them.
3.) Cut them SQUARE to 2-1/2" lengths.
4.) Glue them together (side-by-side) in stacks of rows.
5.) Glue on a cardboard backing.
6.) Glue to a plywood base for stability.
7.) Place your Vallejo paints on their sides in the tubes, bottoms-out, ID'd with a fine Sharpie.

_[Note]:
PVC tubing would be infinitely better, but not as cheap._


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Best BRUSH brands for acrylics*_
IMO, and without regard to price._

I'm listing these strictly from personal experience. There are other good ones, but these are the brands I'm familiar with, and the ones that have given me good results.

*Loew Cornell* (Golden Taklon)
*Grumbacher* (Goldenedge & Academy)
*da Vinci
Princeton
Silverwhite
Gran prix
Richeson
MicroMark* (Golden Eagle)
*Blick Master
Royal & Langnickel*


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Long brush handles*_
You may not like them._

If a long brush handle bothers you as much as it does me, there's a simple solution...
SNIP IT!
... but first get a can of _Plasti Dip_ at Lowe's. It comes in yellow, red, blue, black, and orange.

Just cut the handle to a length you like.
However, the lacquer coating will quickly begin to chip and flake at the cut end, so...
Dip about an inch of the cut end in the Plasti Dip per instructions.
_Warning -- it stinks... do it in a ventilated hood or outdoors._


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Paint hierarchy*
If you're ever tempted to overcoat one class of paint with another, you should know the rule of hierarchy...
_"Enamels over lacquers, acrylics over enamels."_

Any violations or deviations of this tenet won't usually end well.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Drybrush-weathering locomotives*
_(with no airbrushing)._

Depending on the era, and the purpose they serve, some locomotives can be weathered with merely drybrushing... especially 'Bulldog' switchers.

My private railroad, the _Lake City Line_, serves the steel mill, and operates 24/7 under demanding and filthy conditions.

This Spectrum 45ton was only drybrushed with mostly Filberts.


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## Stumpy (Mar 19, 2013)

Painting and Finishing Sale at Micro-Mark 

http://e.micromark.com/public/viewm...0i5jenjl/0bdd03eb000000000000000000000015aa2d


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Cheap home brew*_
But..._

A wad of steel wool in a cup of vinegar will somehow (after a time) make a brown wash that penetrates, and looks quite good on _*sealed*_ wood and plastic.
The downside is, the odor seems to linger long after it's actually gone.
Pee-yoo!


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## Ott Gangl (Mar 21, 2008)

LateStarter said:


> *Essential handbrushes*
> 
> _FOR STARTERS:_
> Quality Spotter or Liner brushes...
> ...


who sells these brushes?


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Art supply stores
Jerry's Artarama
Blick Art Supply
MicroMark
Michaels
Amazon


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Give these acrylic weathering products a try*_
They work._

Vallejo & MiG weathering products are excellent.
Although they're intended basically for military models, their affect on RR models is superb.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Drybrush weathered rolling stock*_
Examples -- boxcars, gons, & hoppers._

Any car (or locomotive) can be drybrush-weathered.
Although it's much less easy (and less reliable) than airbrushed bottom-weathering, it can be executed nicely, with quality brushes, quality paint, and lots of practice.

IMO, the best place to start is with the wheels and truckframes.
Rusty truckframes alone can make an otherwise clean car pop with realism.
Once you've got rusty trucks and wheels down, you can begin to try bodies... keeping a wet rag handy to wipe away mistakes.
The big secret is to get used to the axiom that "less is more"... nothing looks unrealistic more than overdone weathering, unless you're going for a derelict, or decrepit look (as I've done with some gondolas).

These Kadee boxcars, and Accurail, TrainMiniature, and Life-Like gons & hoppers were all drybrush-weathered with quality brushes and mostly Vallejo acrylics and washes.
The Accurail gons are faithful renderings of two cars that frequented Shapiro's Salvage in the '50's, '60's, & '70's, and were constant denizens of the rails between there and the steel mill, along with a 100-ton green PC G43.
They were all literally run into the ground.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

I meant to include this photo in the previous post...
It's a TrainMiniature, with mild drybrushing over a wash 'wipe-job'.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Weather-by-Decal*








HO O SCALE WEATHERING RUST STAIN DECALS WEATHERED BOXCAR TRAILER WATERSLIDE | eBay


Simply cut desired sections and apply to area to be weathered. then entering "HO scale" in the search box.



www.ebay.com


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*Can you overdo weathering?*
Probably not.

There's lots of rolling stock still running on the rails that are worse than this._
This car resides in Baraboo Wi at the Mid Continent Railway Museum. You can just make out the Chesapeake and Ohio markings.
Not rusted through, but it beats second place.
There's actually more erosion & corrosion than paint.
Notice the daylight through the top sill seam.


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## Stumpy (Mar 19, 2013)

Just south of the Linwood Hump Yard. March 2017.

(Second pic isn't too great.)

Rust buckets, patched reporting marks, but the trucks were in pretty good shape.


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