# My first layout



## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

Hey everyone. Just wanted to start an official thread to document my build of my first layout. My dad recently gained space in the basment for a 12x4 HO layout. However I only have a 3x5 space for mine. So i chose n scale for mine. I will be updating later with some pictures of my progress so far.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'd try to swap your dad for the space, a 12 x 4 N-scale layout can be very impressive!


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

Yea, I don't think he'd be giving up that space. Hasn't had that kinda space for a layout in 20 years.


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

So here are some photos of my progress so far. The layout is temporarily laid out on the sheet rock while waiting on the rest of my track to be delivered. once i get that i will be doing a final dry fit on the sheet rock, then out to by foam to replace the sheet rock.


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

Here is the design for my final layout, with the yard to be added in the future. I will be doing all the work on the layout up to the first turnout of the yard to allow for it to be added on in the future. Right now i just don't have the money for 12 or so turnouts.


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## tankist (Jun 11, 2009)

It’s a good start. I don’t particularly a fan of your rail scheme, but it is your choice of course . just keep in mind it is not the amount of turnouts that will make your layout fun to operate. 

I also think you can easily improve on your control panel, perhaps print on piece of paper and place behind piece of plexiglass/acrylic .

good luck and post progress


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

My plan is too once i dry fit everything onto my panel, spray it white, then i will be redoing the tape for the track lines. i am defiantly debating the Plexiglass as i will be hand wiring some indicator LEDs to show if the blocks are on or off, and which direction they are set to run.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I thought I posted a reply on your table and could not see it.

Here it is in your other post.?

How come you started a new post?

Your other one,
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=6138


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

I wanted to make another one in this category as it is the layout category and it seemed a little more appropriate a place for it.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

leftwithnoexits said:


> I wanted to make another one in this category as it is the layout category and it seemed a little more appropriate a place for it.



You confused me at first...I know I posted something.

Yes I see you said that after I went back and looked a what you posted but as I already asked I just figured I would let it stay here.

You finish it yet.


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

no, not finished yet, no where near finished. doing a little bit of pre-wiring on my control board right now. took a trip to radio shack and picked up some of the toggle switches i needed, of course i have to go take a trip to another one because i still need 3 more and of course i took the last of the ones they had. also i may want to get another one of the printed circuit boards they have.


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

So after round one of taking the soldering iron....









still have more i plan on doing tonight, however i have to wait for the iron to cool down so that i can fill it with more butane gas, my last solder joint didn't go to smoothly because it was running low on gas so it wasn't staying hot enough.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Left,

Wow ... you're moving quickly. Nice work.

I have a very little/simple control panel on my small O layout via a pull-out MDF drawer. I had to do the same thing in reducing the MDF thickness to mount my toggle switches. Looks like you tackled some very neat routering here. Did you use a "big" router, or a small Dremel setup? Or maybe just a spade drill bit ??? (Just curious.)

Again, nice work on your end!

TJ


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

spade drill bit. and yea, i am moving along decently, however my funding is getting very low for the moment. so i think before i go to get the rest of my toggles i will be going for my foam so i can do some track work and such as that will be something that will be very time consuming.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Thanks!

Happy foaming!

TJ


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

So while i was out today my last bit of track and my momentary toggles for my turnouts came. Also got some or my jumper wires for one of my circuit boards solder in. Will have pictures to follow once i put in the rest of track and my cuircuit board.

Also if anyone can give me some insight on how to wire up my dpdt mom toggles for my atlas switches that would be awsome. Also would a 9v be too much or too little power for switches. As i plan to power the switches seperate from the train transformer


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## tankist (Jun 11, 2009)

you not going to wire these directly. coils need only momentary pulse of power and toggles are really not the best thing for this job. for long life of your coils you need a capacitor discharge unit (CDU)

but it can be done with toggles too. choose which circuit fits you best (i don't like any of these due to several reasons)
http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/ToggleTwin.html


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

well they are momentary momentary toggles


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## tankist (Jun 11, 2009)

in that case it is not as bad, very first circuit on page i linked to will work, with no constant current through coil and can be of somewhat faster recharge.
but still the discharge pulse is going through the toggle - not good.

CDU circuits:
http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/CDPSU.html


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

Ty tankist. However those little diagrams are like greek to me. I guess ill have to do a little reading up on how to read those things. Lol


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Anton,

Schematics are a bit over my head, too, and I'm asking here simply out of curiosity, but ...

If he's planning on using momentary DPDT switch, does he really need a capacitor setup in the wiring loop? It seems to me that a quick throw (or push) of the switch would send power to the track turnout, toggling it over, and then one lets go of the DPDT switch. Woudln't that work OK and simply?

Again, I ask very naively here ...

TJ


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## tankist (Jun 11, 2009)

coil are inductive. on momentary push or toggle connect and especially disconnect there can be sparks inside. at some point these sparks can weld the contacts shut together and ongoing current will burn the coil down.
Capacitor is a good start but still solves only half of this problem - the toggle is destroyed but at least the coil is ok since only the charge stored in capacitor went through it.

i understand not all are verse in electronics and its perfectly ok. but in this case one might just buy a proper CDU. for example, Digitrax DS64 can be used for the task even without DCC, just connect the momentary toggles to its inputs. 12.5$ per channel is good price IMHO and it is a good investment for later. then there is team digital SMD82, 8 channels - costs less per channel.

and there is a unit i built and sellling 
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=5785


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Thanks, Anton! Happy to learn a bit more on my end.

TJ


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

So let me get this straight. Basically on the lowest level I should just place a capacitor inline in going to the power to the toggle and this will help protect the coils on the switch machines. And could you recommend (maybe take a look at radioshack.com as that is where i will most likely purchase them) one that would work for it?


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## tankist (Jun 11, 2009)

not sure what you mean by "inline". 

the way these work is when everything off in rest position the capacitor is charging. at moment of activation the capacitor is disconnected from charging and connected to coils energizing them. then connects again to charging circuit. capacitor has limited charge, hence in case of toggle failure no damage to coil is done. and the repair is limited to un-soldering the toggle switch.

i do not recomend radio-shack. i either order online or cannibalize old equipment for parts and see no reason to pay for something that is free. but if you all set to give RS business they most probably have them as well.
you need anywhere between 1000-2200uF, at least 25V rated electrolytic capacitor. the exact capacity is not as important - it should be enough to actuate the lighter atlas machine. you also could take multiple smaller ones to reach total capacity as long as they have sufficient voltage rating.

what you could use however is a soldering iron. radioshack one is cheap and of sufficient quality.


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

I actually have a butane bernz-o-matic soldering iron at my disposal. 

As for inline i mean positive lead from power source into one end of capacitor. Other end of capacitor into input to toggle. Sorry of my termiology isnt all correct.

Started working more on wiring some of my switches to the circuit boards i will be usimg in my control panel. Have to make a rum to radio shack for my last couple of switches today.

So i have my circuit board for my main blocks wired up with the exception of the connections from the track to the board, also have the last of my toggles in place on my control panel.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Wow ... very neat and tidy. Rub-on letters, I assume? Though I'm sure you know which "spur" is which, maybe add some i.d. labels ... "Spur #1", etc., with corresponding number tags on your layout diagram?

Is it easier to use the circuit board than a jumper strip for the connections hub?

Is the transformer going on the flat deck in the foreground, hence a power cord hole?

It's fun to watch this all take shape ... nice work!

TJ


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

actually the lettering was just photo shopped on just so that you's can see what all the toggles are to be used for. i don't need to label spur 1 2 3 4 because the switches are place on the board in relative position to where they are in the layout and they can easily be associated by looking on the diagram on the board. however i may label them 1 2 3 4 anyways, not quite sure yet.

as far as using the circuit boards, i think it will give me better more solid connections. also i think it allows for a cleaner look and even can be a little more flexible. i also like the cleaner look compared to the bulky terminal blocks that would generally be in place of the circuit boards. i also found visualizing how all the wires had to connect together a lot easier. 

yes, the transformer will be going on the flat deck on the control board. the transformer in the pictures you've seen will not be my transformer, my dad will be taking that back soon for his layout. i will be getting a railpower1370 to start with, then expanding to a second one for individual control of the spurs speed. so my wiring until i get the second transformer will be set up to allow for the expansion in the future.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

leftwithnoexits said:


> actually the lettering was just photo shopped on ...


Ohhh ... you fooled me!


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

2nd circuit board done









So im down to wiring up my toggles for my switches. Jusy confused about how to wire in the capacitors.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

I found a differnt set of plans for switch machine controls from the same site that Anton gave you.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/ToggleTwin.html


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## tankist (Jun 11, 2009)

sean. thats the first link i posted  but regardless, his toggles are springloaded so in essence these are momentary pushputtons packaged in toggle form.

OP, th e top one will work for you. IMHO not the best idea for non momentary toggle, but should work for you. as drawn it is having 2 dedicated capacitors per turnout which is wastefull. while this can be reduced, the circuit will be charging the cap through the duration of of the toggle press, slower due to limiting resistor but still, so in essence the isssue of welding buttons is not solved.













BUT!!!
if reliability is needed i strongly recomend to either build a proper CDU with charge blocking circuit or just buy ready device. among others stationary decoder digitrax DS64 (50-55$)comes to mind. operates 4 turnouts (or more if you actuate more then one, ie crossover) it doesn't have to have DCC, and its a futureproof for when you eventually go DCC. i remember you said you are on limited budget, but i think you are better off with one less engine or several cars then with flaky switching solution.

my 2 cents


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

so i've decided to move one from working on my turnout toggles as right now the concept is a little above my head. as for now i should hopefully be going to get my foam by the end of the week, and will be able to lay that down and begin laying road bed and track into its final resting place.


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

Got my foam sub bed today. Have it glued down setting up with some weights on top. Should be able to start laying track back out tomorrow and marking for my road bed.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

How thick did you go for the foam base?


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

I went with 1 inch. i've been thinking about it and i don't plan on doing any streams or anything.


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

Started laying some road bed and track. 








Terminal down through the center of road bed. No one will ever know they are there.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I'll know. 

Progress looks great. Thanks for keeping us posted with pics / updates!

TJ


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

just have to finish laying road bed for my spurs and road bed will be done. then its onto my foam elevations


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## TapRoot (Oct 3, 2010)

lookin forward to watching the build!

thanks for posting, but always MORE PICS!! haha as you go of course


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

Of course ill be posting lots of pics as i go. Go the road bed for my one spur all done. Will have pics up tomorrow


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

finished laying my road bed.






























now to begin building up my elevations. which will not be going as fast as laying the road bed did. the two spots where you see the road bed stop will be the start of the inclines


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

So I've been working on one of my incline/declines. Been a lot of work shaping it out of the foam board so far, but it is well worth it because i am happy with out it is coming out. got about the first 3 quarters pretty much done, had to glue on some more foam on top the first layer (as i have 1 inch foam and need about a 1 3/4 final height. now to wait for glue to dry. 

here's a couple pics of it as it sits right now. 

My intricate weight system for weighing down the foam for a tight seem. 







The first section of incline. still needs a little more shaping to get some high spots out. but getting there.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Ohh ... you carved the foam in thickness (lenghwise), rather than used a bunch of closely spaced risers (of constant thickness, say 1" foam) cut to varying (tapered) heights.

Interesting ... let us know how it works out ... looks good so far!

TJ


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

I will. Its been a little bit of a process doing it that way but i think it will look nice when done.


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## Xnats (Dec 5, 2010)

Dang, Left. I can not believe you shaved a full tapered ramp. You must have the patience of a saint. Looking good though :thumbsup:


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

Patience of a saint. Not really. Just think its the best way for me to get it done


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I like the shave job.:thumbsup:

Are you sure you have enough weights on it?


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

Got the first elevation done, still have a little more shaping to do to the sides and such. but the taper is done.


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## novice (Feb 2, 2011)

good looking layout with lots of interesting intersections, spurs etc.

Looks like it's going to be a very nice layout and fun when you're done.


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

I will be a fun layout. Hardest thing is just trying to get whats in my head out of it and onto the layout.


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

Began working on my accent, through the piers in there just for some temp track support.


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

some more work has gotten done. started on laying out my mountain and the up hill climb to the girders. the more i've been working with the foam the easier its been getting.


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

So I ran my train around the track with the foam inclines for the first time today. other that a few derailment issues just due to loose connectors and track on the inclines not secured down yet, it ran great. found the couple spots in my inclines that need a little more smoothing out for a little more gradual incline. but all in all, i am defiantly satisfied so far.


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## 2TALLTARY (Feb 24, 2011)

*Unique*



tankist said:


> it’s a good start. I don’t particularly a fan of your rail scheme, but it is your choice of course . Just keep in mind it is not the amount of turnouts that will make your layout fun to operate.
> 
> I also think you can easily improve on your control panel, perhaps print on piece of paper and place behind piece of plexiglass/acrylic .
> 
> Good luck and post progress


i like his layout, i think it's unique.


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

Thank you 2talltary. I like having a nice long mainline to be able to allow the trains to run, then having a few spurs i can play around with. of course I will have a yard expansion to come once my main section is done.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Exciting to see the train run around for the first time, huh? I remember "my first time" ... hubba hubba ... woo woo woo!!! (I'm still giddy just thinkiing about it!)

TJ


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## novice (Feb 2, 2011)

I really like all the neat turns and sections you have going there. It just looks so cool and fun. Looks like you can have so many different things going on to catch the eye.


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

I have seen it run around before, but of course that was back before all my foam creations.


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

Ok, so joint compound and its drying time is killing me, would have so much more progress done if i wasn't constantly waiting for it to dry, sand, Spackle, dry sand spackle. In all though it is turning out pretty good. just another learning experience for me.


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## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

leftwithnoexits said:


> Ok, so joint compound and its drying time is killing me, would have so much more progress done if i wasn't constantly waiting for it to dry, sand, Spackle, dry sand spackle. In all though it is turning out pretty good. just another learning experience for me.



Joint compound dries too slow. Try dry bagged quick setting drywall patch mix. Mix small amounts. I mix 2 cups at a time and it thickens before I can brush it all on.


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

joint compound is just more convenient for me. i have a busy schedule as it is, so when i do get the hour or so to sit down and work on my layout, i don't want to have to worry about mixing it. just pop the lid open and its ready to go. I will keep that in mind for future layouts though. 

the only real areas that take too long for me to dry are the areas where i have had to lay it on real thick.


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## Xnats (Dec 5, 2010)

You can try quick dry spackle/joint compound. I've found that it cracks if applied to thick but it applied in thin lifts it works pretty well. It dries quick enough that at least two coats can be done an hour. Problem is it more expensive. Plaster is really the the fastest curing, to fast sometimes, lol. It is a pain mixing it though.


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

as for now with the little experience i have with everything, i would rather stick with what i'm doing now. its working well so why tempt the devil. just glued down another section of foam as the section i've been working on is almost done, so i'll be needing something else to start working on. will have pictures up soon of progress.


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## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

Also with the dry mix you can mix it as wet as you want and paint brush it on. It is really easy to mix. I use a plastic cup, scoop it 1/3 full of powder and use my brush and mix it for a minute or 2. It sets pretty fast.

I started my mountains the same way using Joint compound. Sean advised me to use quick set. Man am I glad I did. I was having trouble with layers not drying very fast. I can do multiple coats the same day now. :thumbsup:


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## leftwithnoexits (Jan 22, 2011)

So Long overdue for an update post. Didn't have much time between work and school lately to do much work on the layout, have been finding time recently so i figured i would post a couple pictures.






























Getting close to building my mountain up.


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## zorba (Aug 6, 2012)

how is it all running?


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