# Wiring the AF 21160 Loco



## Nuttin But Flyer

I found some time to work on my 21160. There is a wire missing from the plug connection that completes the circuit from the front tender pickup to the manual reverse switch on the back of the cab. The wire is missing completely from the plug at the tender front. I do not see how it can be soldered and don't believe it should be. Even if I try, I'm sure I'll only melt the plastic plug body if I apply heat to the prong. Looking closely at the plug, it seems that each plug prong may be pressed into the plug body and -- I'm guessing here -- the wires are supposed to be crimped inside when the prong is pressed in. It does not appear to be a two-piece design that can be taken apart to insert the wire. If I pull the prong out, even a little, I can feed the stripped wire in the hole, then press the prong back in to "capture" it and thus have my connection once again. Does anyone know if my assumption is correct? I'd hate to yank out the prong and ruin the plug only to find I was wrong about it being pressed in this way.


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## Stillakid

On the inside of the tender, the wires from the trucks are soldered to the recepticle. Thats the only thing that you solder.
There is supposed to be a 2 prong male plug coming from the engine that fits in there. It's not soldered. If you didn't get one with the unit, take your tender to radio shack and get some male plugs that you solder the wires from the engine into. Then you can just plug them in.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

I was able to gently pull the one prong out slightly -- enough to insert a stripped wire into the corresponding cavity for it. However, when attempting to return the prong to its original position to "crimp" against the newly inserted wire, the plug body cracked. I had the idea of using a large jaw pliers adjusted so that one jaw half would push against the end of the prong and the other half of the jaw to hold the plug body, then gently squeeze to "press" the prong back. It may have worked had I not squeezed so hard. Once the plug body was cracked it would no longer stay inserted in the tender receptacle -- just kept falling out. I have a new one on order from Portlines -- probably should have done so in the first place, but without giving this a try, I would never gain the experience of repairing my own items. So, a good lesson learned -- use smaller pliers.


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## tjcruiser

One step forward, one step back. I've been there myself ... many, MANY times. Good lessons learned, though!

Glad to hear Portlines will help get you running again.

TJ


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## ChopperCharles

I really like my 21160, it's a quiet, good running loco and the traction tires really make a difference over the 300 I have. Does yours have smoke and choo-choo? Mine has the tamg for the smoke gear, but no gear and just a metal plate bolted on instead of the smoke unit. I'm debating buying a smoke unit - or finding a cheap eBay chassis with a smoker and modifying it.

In the meantime though, I've added a light (L bracket from portlines screws right in), and stuck as many automotive wheel weights as I could fit onto that metal plate. It's a great place to mount weight, and there's plenty of room there without the smoker. It really makes it a strong puller with the extra weight. 

Charles.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

No smoke or choo-choo. Got this as part of an eBay sale of a complete set #20175. Just serviced it and got it working. You say you added a headlight? How? Do you know the light bracket P.N. from Portlines? And also any instruction for installing and wiring. I'd like to add one to this baby.


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## Rich_Trains

Here is a 21160 that was part of a salvage lot. It was very clean except for a chip on the cow catcher. I decided to take off the cow catcher and make this into a switcher. Since it was going to work as a switcher I replaced the DPDT switch with a FWD-REV-FWD reverse unit. That works so well that I plan to convert a Northern with a tempremental four positon reverse unit with the simpler FWD-REV-FWD unit. I also added a wheat grain headlight.

Rich


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## ChopperCharles

fyi, I thought the L bracket from portlines screwed right in to the 21160, but it actually made contact with the metal plates riveted on to the chassis where the smoke unit should be. This caused an intermittent short, because the front tender trucks are hot and bolted directly to the chassis. 

So I bent it into a "C" shape and stuck it between the plates to hold it in place. 

Charles.


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## amer/flyer

Nuttin But Flyer,

Got my 21160 running, but there were loose copper power strips beneath the tender, bent them back up , it ran after that , cleaned the prongs and pushed back, she ran, but not the way It was supposed to, seemed to use to much power, loose wire or dirt, I will found out.


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