# Track preferences: Kato vs Peco



## Matison (12 mo ago)

I got into N scale when a neighbor gave me her deceased husband’s N-scale track and a few locomotives. At the time, I knew nothing about what was good, and what was junk.

What I had received from my neighbor was some standard brass track from Yugoslavia and Austria, and also some unbranded flex-track that kept separating from the ties. I ended up throwing it out. The locomotives that I received were poor runners from Tyco and Atlas(Italy & Yugoslavia). I was happy enough to get started, but knew almost immediately that I needed to upgrade in order to make things work properly.

I bought Kato track and also some Atlas code 65. The Atlas didn’t work well with the locomotives that I had, so I stuck with the Kato. 
I am on my third build in six months, as I made many, many mistakes in the beginning. I’m also starting to wonder if Kato was a mistake too. It is somewhat limiting when it comes to bridges and non-standard uses. I have been looking at peco track, and am wondering if that is what I should ultimately go with. I don’t want to keep rebuilding things, and am taking my time on this build, so it is important that I use the right materials this time.

Are there any big advantages to picking Kato over Peco, or vice-versa? (N scale). I want something that will last me at least ten or twenty years. I’m not wealthy, but am willing to invest enough $ to get the best tracks that I can reasonably afford.

Any opinions based on experience would be appreciated. Thank you.


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## pmcgurin (Sep 7, 2010)

I bought Kato track in 1995 and contin ued to add more of it over the years. I stopped and took apart my layout around 2010, because we were going to sell our house. Last fall I dragged out the trains and the Kato track and set up a two oval test track with the old Kato track. It works pretty well, but I maybe need to fine the track joints. Being a bit rusty, I probably set the track up too hastily. The trains run fine on it, but this is pretty simple. The Kato track has lasted 27 years of on again, off again use. 
I think, though, that if you want to set up a layout that looks like the best model railroad, that it would be better to use the Peco and build up the roadbed with ballast, and follow suggestions to use washes of color to make the roadbed ballast look like something outside and appropriately filthy, as most tracks you see in photos. The industrial areas are dirtiest, and country roads apparently get filth from diesel exhaust, etc., weathered away by wind and rain. This kind of track and ballast will have better possibilities for modeling perhaps than Kato plastic roadbed. I cannot say whether Peco track will be better or not, but both Kato and Peco would be better than Atlas, and I have used Atlas.
After Atlas I used Kato and have been pleased with it, although I will say that the last Kato layout I made was relatively simple, two large ovals with sidings, elevated track and used the Kato double crossover modules. I just **** to run trains. Preferably passenger trains with lighted cars. Less in terested in freight more and more. I don't put detail parts on Kato passenger cars either, and have concluded that I have no interest in ballast, Kato plastic being fine for me, so that you understand that I am no seeker after big time realism, just running my toys. I have a whole box of Kato track from the last layout and two K3 viaduct sets. It's good enough, but if you want really realistic modeling, Peck with ballasting might be a better choice.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

Matison said:


> I got into N scale when a neighbor gave me her deceased husband’s N-scale track and a few locomotives. At the time, I knew nothing about what was good, and what was junk.
> 
> What I had received from my neighbor was some standard brass track from Yugoslavia and Austria, and also some unbranded flex-track that kept separating from the ties. I ended up throwing it out. The locomotives that I received were poor runners from Tyco and Atlas(Italy & Yugoslavia). I was happy enough to get started, but knew almost immediately that I needed to upgrade in order to make things work properly.
> 
> ...


Matison;

Are you sure what you were given is N-scale? The brands, and descriptions, remind me of some early HO-scale stuff I had. For instance, I have never seen brass rails on N-scale track. Also, while Tyco was a big name in HO-scale "back in the day", I don't think Tyco ever made N-scale. I suppose its possible though.
Unfortunately, that flex track you threw out, because it wouldn't stay together, may have been perfectly OK.
Unlike roadbed track, or even sectional track, flex track needs to be attached to a layout in order to stay connected at the rail joints. Common methods of attachment are track nails, and caulk.
I'm not familiar with "code 65" track. Could it have been code 55? That is a common size.

I switched from HO-scale, to N-scale five decades back, and I am still modeling in N-scale 50 years later.

Either Peco, or Kato, track is excellent. So is Micro Engineering, and even Atlas makes some decent, reliable, flex track.
Your old locomotives and cars may have deep "pizza cutter" wheel flanges, which won't work on some codes of track. Track "codes" are the height of the rail in 1000ths of an inch. Older equipment may run OK on code 80 track, but may hit the spikes on code 55 track.
At some point, you might consider buying one good, new, (Kato) locomotive, and some newer wheels for your cars. These will have shallower wheel flanges that will work on any track code.

Kato, and Bachmann are the two common brands of "roadbed track." This is the track with a rigid, locking, gray plastic piece attached to the bottom of each track section. I recommend you avoid Bachmann EZ-Track. The actual track is ok, but the Bachmann EZ-Track "turnouts" (track switches) are lousy, the worst available. (Unlike Bachmann, Kato's turnouts are quite reliable.)
Atlas "Snap Switch" turnouts also leave a lot to be desired, like not derailing trains that pass through them. They can be improved (see files) but you would be better served by Peco, or Micro Engineering turnouts. You can also make your own turnouts. It takes a lot of time, but saves a lot of money.

Peco, Micro Engineering, and Atlas* all sell flex track, which can be formed to any curve, or used as straight track. They do not have a plastic roadbed attached. Normally, cork, or foam, commercial roadbed is used under flex track. The roadbed is glued down to the table and the track is glued to the roadbed. Latex caulk makes a good "glue" for both these tasks

The files below have more info on various brands, types, and codes, of track and turnouts.

* Atlas also sells sectional track. (Not recommended.)

Traction Fan


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

As @traction fan says it sounds like you might have HO stuff. Could you please post a pic?

Regards Peco v Kato track there are pros and cons for both. With Kato you need to stick with their product almost exclusively and their geometry. Fine if you want to go with one of their plans but it doesn’t give much flexibility of design. On the plus side it’s pretty reliable by all accounts and tough and you can take it up easily if not used on a permanent layout. Trackbed is of course built in. Simplicity of electrics is another advantage so no complex wiring to consider.
Peco can give greater freedom of design with its flex track and more realistic look if using code 55 rail, Kato is code 80 which equates tothe heaviest rail used in mainline railroads. Peco also offer code 80 In sectional. Price wise Kato is a bit more expensive.
You pays your money and takes your chance.


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

I use mostly kato track and have been a fan for a few years . but now im starting to have electrical issues at some points along the lines. i could just solder each and every section , but im not gunna do that. so im pulling up all my kato and installing flex track. Im keeping all the turnouts as they are very reliable to use. so my vote is flex track. my last layout was all flex track and it worked great very reliable .


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