# Paint match



## AFGP9 (Apr 8, 2015)

Thought I would pass on a little helpful tidbit. After much experimentation and too many paint can buys, I think I have found a green color that closely if not exactly matches the green found on various accessories. It is Rust-Oleum Satin Leafy Green. I painted a 771 Type III Stock Yard base. This was a complete repaint. Glass bead blasted and primed. I don't know about a touch up. I tried that on the bottom of the 771 and it looked like it was a match. I wasn't sure that a touch up would blend with the original AF green on a visible surface. I was going to paint this 771 anyway because of it's condition. It wasn't a very good candidate for a touch up anyway. I also painted a 583 crane boom. There again it was a complete repaint. I have 3 of those so I compared the painted one to an original and it looked the same to me. I really need to get something that just needs a touch up for a conclusive paint match. I am passing this information along in case somebody wants to try it.
The only caveat I will add, I know there are darker greens on some of the accessories. This is a lighter shade. 

Kenny


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Find an automotive paint supply shop. They will be able to match just about anything and put it into a spray can for you. 

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk


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## Kelpieflyer (Jan 9, 2012)

Good tip on the paint color. I have several accessories that need the base repainted, so this sounds like a good alternative.


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## TimmyD (Dec 6, 2021)

Hi Kenny, all,
What color spray paint do you guys use for AF post war steam loco shell restoration? I have a 325 AC with really tired paint and may strip and repaint, though I generally much prefer original, this one is just pretty far gone. If you do repaint a loco, how do you reapply the numbers? Any help would be appreciated! I did search the site a little and there are just so many threads with my keywords I wasn't able to find the info on my own.
Thanks,
Tim


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## kltrainz (Jan 5, 2017)

Timmy D I use Krylon semi- gloss black. I have several original painted locomotives from Gilbert so I have something to compare to. That paint variety seems to look right. Be sure and put down a primer coat and let it dry thoroughly dry. Don't try and cover the engine body in one heavy black coat. 2-3 even coats works for me. Using the can looks as good as using an air brush so no need to use one.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Unless you have a spray custom matched, the semi-gloss black is the best match currently available. It is slightly more glossy than most original Gilbert engines but some originals have more gloss and are an exact match.
Below are two pictures comparing repainting results to an original. The 290 is a repaint but the cab number stamping is original. I chose to save the stampings since the numbers were still in good condition. A thin coat of Vaseline was applied over the numbers prior to spray painting. The paint used was Krylon Semi-Flat Black which has unfortunately been discontinued. It was an exact match for most Gilbert diecast engines. The 295 is a LN original for comparison.
There are three choices for replacement cab stampings. One is buy a stamp from PortLines and white ink, practice for a year, then stamp your engine. Second is decals. These work well with practice but require a clearcoat spray to prevent long term chipping. Third are dry transfer letters. These rub on easily with a little practice. I know Flyernut uses them and his always look good.


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## TimmyD (Dec 6, 2021)

Thank you for the information! Sounds like (if I go this direction) stripper to primer to crylon semi-gloss. Hopefully with a little strategically placed Vaseline to attempt to save the stamp. Since it would be a repaint, if it goes south I can always start over. Appreciate the knowledge!
Planning on attempting my first electrolytic cleaning this weekend, hoping to clean up the salvageable linkage. 
Have a good day all,
Tim


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

For what it is worth, I did not strip the 290 prior to repainting. I really wish I had a before picture of it. I hand sanded the paint to smooth it and eliminate any ridges where the paint was chipped. Sanding provides good "tooth" for the new paint. About 90% of the engine surface still had paint on it and that paint seemed to be adhering well. The 290 was repainted 27 years before the above picture was taken so it has survived the test of time.


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## TimmyD (Dec 6, 2021)

I am still a little up in the air on the repaint, but if I repaint, I will definitely take before and after pictures. I like the idea of sanding and applying over existing paint, worst case scenario I don't like how it looks and then strip the new and old paint off. I also think sanding will be challenging with the amount of nicks though, so we will see. Thanks again!
Tim


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## alaft61ri (Oct 11, 2019)

I used the same as amflyer but the satin black. And I a l ways use the dry transfers.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

alaft61ri said:


> I used the same as amflyer but the satin black. And I a l ways use the dry transfers.


I second your decision,lol. I sand-blast the boiler shells, but not the sheet metal tender shells. The heat from the blasting will warp the metal.The cast shells suffer no ill-affect. There is one other way to have the boiler shells cab numbers applied, send them to PortLines and have them do it. It takes alot of practise to do them right, and I gave up on the stamps as I just couldn't master it. I sold them all to another "dreamer" on ebay.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

AmFlyer said:


> For what it is worth, I did not strip the 290 prior to repainting. I really wish I had a before picture of it. I hand sanded the paint to smooth it and eliminate any ridges where the paint was chipped. Sanding provides good "tooth" for the new paint. About 90% of the engine surface still had paint on it and that paint seemed to be adhering well. The 290 was repainted 27 years before the above picture was taken so it has survived the test of time.


When I sand-blast wheels for my antique cars and for others, I don't try to remove all the paint myself.. The best paint job for longevity is the factory applied stuff. That stuff is tough, and if it's in good shape, I'll just go over it slightly. Boiler shells are a little different because they are small and can be done in a matter of minutes.


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