# Beginner that needs advice on a unique project.



## kenkirtlandiv (Feb 23, 2018)

Hey everyone, 
I want to start by saying thanks in advanced for the advice, this is my very first project of this nature so your experience is super helpful.
I am building a scale model of an O'Neill Cylinder that will act as a lamp for a project at my university. Without going into too much detail an O'Neill Cylinder is a large scifi space station that can hold thousands of people. 

I plan to use the landscape modelling techniques used in the model train hobby, and that's why I am here. I have been watching hours of tutorials and have a general idea of how to start the project, but I figured it would be wise to talk to people involved in the hobby. 

My model is in 1/1000th scale (1mm = 1m) and is comprised of 3 main areas, each 60x9in rectangles. The first rectangle is mostly natural land with rivers and ponds and forest. The second rectangle is mostly farmland. The third rectangle is industrial, commercial and residential area. Feel free to comment all suggestions!

My current questions:

I plan on modeling the structure of the land with 9in Shaper Sheets by Woodland Scenic, is this the best way? 

The scale is smaller than most model train landscapes, should I use only fine turf blend to simulate grass?

With the small scale I am thinking of using underbrush and bush and foliage clusters from woodland scenic to simulate trees in a forest. Would this look right for a 1/1000 scale? 

I have seen some youtubers say that hair spray works the same as scenic cement, is this true? Additionally, what other bonding methods and tools will I need (beyond superglue and craft glue)?

What is a good way to model farmland with rows of crops?


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Super small scenery*



kenkirtlandiv said:


> Hey everyone,
> I want to start by saying thanks in advanced for the advice, this is my very first project of this nature so your experience is super helpful.
> I am building a scale model of an O'Neill Cylinder that will act as a lamp for a project at my university. Without going into too much detail an O'Neill Cylinder is a large scifi space station that can hold thousands of people.
> 
> ...


 [In model railroad scales we can use corduroy fabric glued down, painted and sprinkled with ground foam "crops". In 1/1000th scale? I don't know. 
You are going to have to compromise a lot because of the tiny scale. "Less is more" in terms of detail. It will need to look like a real landscape viewed from a great distance.] 

You might read the last part of this about "scenery materials." It might help you.

View attachment MODEL RAILROADING ON A BUDGET.pdf



good luck with your project;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:

View attachment MODEL RAILROADING ON A BUDGET.pdf


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

The problem is that the answer to most of your questions is either "Yes" or "that depends".

There really aren't any "best" techniques in this hobby, and your best guide is your own common sense and eye: "does it look right?"

The biggest problem you're facing is that the smallest stuff in the model railroading world (T Scale, or 1:450) is more than twice the size of what you're doing. Good luck finding supplies in that scale. The more (Z Scale, or 1:220) is 5 times the size of what you're doing. You will need to experiment with various techniques, so work on scrap pieces of cardboard (cereal boxes work well) and test to make sure you get the look you need.

The key to your modeling is going to be texture, not detail. For crops, simply use a straight edge to glue finely crumbled foam down; that should give you the look you want. You're trying to reproduce that linear, leafy effect you see in the center rendering. Even a 6' high corn stalk will only be 0.07" tall on your layout, so the relief of the rows will be minimal. 

For trees, small chunks of Woodland Scenics "Clump Foliage" should work well. Trunks are going to be very hard to model -- you're probably talking about tiny lengths of hardened music wire, if you bother at all. A 100' high tree in your scale is only about 1.2 inches tall. Sprigs of baby's breath or caspia, available at florists or Michaels, will give you a more branching structure, at the cost of strength. But notice that the trees in your third rendering don't really show the branching, so a "lollipop" may be more practical.

Water is achieved by painting the bottom to simulate depth, then covering it with a thin layer of epoxy resin or acrylic. Future floor polish actually works well for standing water. I prefer acrylic gloss medium, and gloss gel with a little white paint for waves, falls, etc.

For grass, just paint it with a craft acrylic, and stipple it to give it texture. At 1:1000, individual grass detail would not be visible. Even the finest of turf products would likely be too thick, suggesting large plants, not grass.

For adhesives -- forget cyanoacrylates (crazy glue). Stick with white glue. Diluted with water (add a drop or two of dish soap to each cup of solution), it will flow into scenery products and hold them in place. For individual items (trees) use Aleene's Tacky Glue, which is just really thick white glue, but it will hold light items instantly. As noted by Traction Fan, hairspray (unscented) does work well as a cheap spray adhesive, but its application will be limited here. And don't forget good old rubber cement.

Buildings, etc. I would say get yourself some thin styrene strips and sheets. You can make a very convincing "future tech" building using laminated styrene. You'd want styrene cement for this. Hobby shops, and maybe craft stores like Michaels, often have a good selection. If not, try www.evergreenscalemodels.com. Once you find what you want, check Amazon or on-line hobby shops (www.modeltrainstuff.com, for instance).

Structure -- I'm not sure Shaper Sheet is going to get you there. It is essentially a very thick foil, but it creases very easily and is more suited to modeling a rock face than a smooth metallic structure. Once you crease it, it's creased forever. Sign making stores can often sell you a large sheet of 1/8" styrene -- this would hold a uniform curve much better, provided you could figure out a way to fasten it in that curve (maybe a wire frame).

I hope you have lots of time to work on this. Experiment with these ideas and whatever else people throw out and see what works for you.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

You might check out fine grades of sandpaper that
with coloring could represent lawns or paved areas.

Don


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## kenkirtlandiv (Feb 23, 2018)

Thanks for the detailed help! I have about 7 weeks to complete the entire model. I will keep you updated on progress if y'all are interested. And I am sure I'll be back with some more questions as I go on.


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## Nikola (Jun 11, 2012)

OP, props to you on this project. Very, very cool. 

After this, model Ringworld.    1mm = 1,000,000 meter scale, prolly.


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## Nikola (Jun 11, 2012)

OP, maybe some of your landscaping can be color printed.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

You might look at textured fabrics to represent ground types combined with finest ground coloured effects sprinkled on. You might try needle cord.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Nikola said:


> OP, maybe some of your landscaping can be color printed.


Good idea, the problem is going to be the very tiny scale you are working with. This might help you but don’t know if they go small enough. You could try reducing on a photocopier.
http://www.allcgtextures.com/main.php


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

kenkirtlandiv said:


> Thanks for the detailed help! I have about 7 weeks to complete the entire model. I will keep you updated on progress if y'all are interested. And I am sure I'll be back with some more questions as I go on.


Don't put it off. The dilute glues necessary to properly hold your landscaping in place can take a while to dry. Don't forget drying time.

BTW, one other thing you can use as glue is paint. For instance, to make a grassy field, you paint it an earth tone, then sprinkle the turf product in while the paint is wet. The turf will stick to the wet paint.


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