# Am I on the right track???



## fulsom56 (Sep 18, 2015)

After 40 some years I'm looking to get back into railroading. N gauge is my preferred scale not so much for lack of space but because I can fit so much more in the space I can use. 
I would like to start building a layout in my basement that conceivably could be up to 22 feet by 20 feet in a L shape running along two outer walls.
I have a couple of questions concerning a layout of this size (if indeed it becomes this big).
#1 I like the reviews on NCE dcc Power Cab 2.0 amp starter set but would I eventually need to upgrade to a 5 amp system?
#2 Lets say I have a minimum of 100 feet main line track (n gauge). How many districts/boosters would be needed? 1 every 30 feet? Am I even explaining this correctly?
#3 I plan on building a loop style layout with industries (coal, logging,etc.), a couple of towns, sidings to serve industries & towns and a yard for switching/staging.
This is my dream layout & I'm trying to get a feel for the basics concerning dcc & how much I potentially would need.
Thanks.............Al


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## daveh219 (Sep 16, 2012)

Al...I too have N Scale and I have used both Digitrax Zephry and the 5amp Super Empire Bldr. I think both NEC and Digitrax both are good products and comparable, but I'm sure you'll find agruments from both sides.

As for hookups, I've been told every 4-6 feet if appropriate for good running. I'm sure you'll get more feed back soon enough.

And I'll be the first to tell you that we REQUIRE lots of pictures to follow your progress. Good luck and welcome back...


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

I have the PowerCab and think it's great. Digitrax I'm sure is also good. You should watch a few YouTube videos to get an idea of the various options. Initially you will only need the basic set but eventually as you add more trains you can upgrade. 

You will need power feeds maybe every six feet from your power bus line, some will advocate more often. With DCC you can operate your points from the same handset with motors/servos and decoders. You need to budget for this. With flex track you can save on costs and it will be more flexible for planning. DCC simplifies the wiring somewhat so that will help you.

Good luck and have fun!


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## fulsom56 (Sep 18, 2015)

Thanks for the replies & I get the power feeds every 4-6 feet....now. I'm trying to find basic wiring schematics for dcc layouts. Schematics that show track feeders to bus lines, turnout wiring with switch machines/dcc control, how blocks or districts are divided up. How to make sure wiring polarity is correct for things like reverse loops, turntables, etc. 

I'll keep researching & I'm in no hurry to start pounding lumber although I'm itching to do so. I will take photo's of my progress as for now it's an empty basement. I need to move my cloths dryer, install better lighting & design my final layout & then the real fun will begin. I can see where this will be a great hobby in the dead of winter. Keep chugging along.........Al


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## fulsom56 (Sep 18, 2015)

Here are 2 photo's of my basement where my future railroad will be built. The picture showing the L shape bench has a wall length of 27 feet. The other wall with the dryer in the way is 23 feet long. The foundation walls are field stone with a 8 inch ledge on top.

Before I start constructing I need to move the dryer & possibly the washer & sink. I just bought this house in August & was told by former owner that it never floods as I can also see that it's in great structural shape for a house built in 1928. It also has a ceiling height of 7 feet. Hopefully, with everything else going on right now, I can start construction in a month or so..................Al.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

There is no real complexity to wiring for DCC. You simply have
a 2 wire buss from the controller or booster. It may have branches
to reach various sections. It is never connected in a loop.
Drops from the track can be connected
to the buss in various ways; the suitcase connectors are perhaps
the easiest to use, but others use twist on nuts, and even solder
connections.

Unless you plan to run several SOUND locomotives at the same
time you likely would not need much more than the 2 amp
power supply that comes with the NCE controller. I would
connect it to a buss from where the two arms of the L connect.
A typical current model non sound loco running at the normal
more or less slow speed will draw less than .5 amp. It is not
unusual to run 4 to 6 locos on a my 1 amp power supply.

Also, I would doubt that you would need separate power blocks,
but again, if you do use them,
the ideal to make that division would be at the
L join.

Most of us use the old fashioned panel remote control of our turnouts.
There is a choice to be made of turnout motor. Many prefer the
slow action of the Tortoise stall motors. But the old twin coil
machines are probably most popular. You can get DCC controlled
turnouts, but consider...you are pushing buttons and controlling
2 or 3 locos with your controller...do you also was to switch
away from them to use the controller to throw turn out? Many of
us think it's much easier to control the locos with the DCC and
control the turnouts with a panel. However, if you plan
total computer control of your DCC then the DCC turnouts would
be a must. A second hand held controller could allow the main
controller to throw the turnouts if DCC or the other way around.

You might want to read more about DCC. There is no more
respected expert on the subject than Alan Gartner. But, don't
let some of the high tech discussion confuse you. They mostly
relate mostly to huge club type layouts.

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/

I would suggest that you draw out your layout using Red for one rail
and black (or other colors) for the other. That way you can always
know when you will have a reverse loop that needs special consideration.
On a DCC layout, a reverse, isolated section, is phase (polarity) controlled by
an automatic reverse loop controller. It requires no special wiring
and no switches. The input is from the track buss, the output to
the isolated section. The device is usually located under the layout
near the section.

I am an advocate of building a single track main line with several passing
sidings. That would work beautifully on your L layout. The reason is,
that with DCC you can run 2 (or more) trains at the same time, one going
clockwise, the other going counter clockwise. You therefore must actually
run the trains, controlling their speed, throwing the turnouts when there
is a 'meet' at a passing siding. For your L layout I would suggest 2 passing
sidings on each leg of the L. I use mine as the location of passenger stations.
There is another reason to go with single track main...you can have the
widest possible curve radius which makes your layout more 'real'.

Having plenty of spurs for industries, maybe 2 or 3 on one team track,
and at least one big yard with loco service facilities will make for enjoyable
switching operations. Again, with DCC, you can have a continuously running
train while doing switching with another loco.

You are going to enjoy a whole new world of model railroading when
you get that big DCC layout running. 

You have, here on the Forum, men with decades of model experience who will be glad to
help you in any way we can.

Don


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## fulsom56 (Sep 18, 2015)

Thanks Don for this information. You explained DCC & associated wiring very clearly. Just one question: You state that you connect the NCE controller to the buss where the 2 arms of the L connect. By "L" are you talking about the L shape of the layout or in other words the center portion of the layout? Al


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

fulsom56 said:


> Thanks Don for this information. You explained DCC & associated wiring very clearly. Just one question: You state that you connect the NCE controller to the buss where the 2 arms of the L connect. By "L" are you talking about the L shape of the layout or in other words the center portion of the layout? Al


It would be best to feed your DCC buss from a central point
and the point where the two L legs join would be
closest to centered. You can run a buss up each leg to provide
power to your drops. If you want shorter drops you might run
two busses up each leg.

Don


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## fulsom56 (Sep 18, 2015)

I downloaded a software product called SCARM to draw up my track plan which really helps me visualize what I want for a layout. I also purchased 17 Model Railroader mags. off of EBay. Research & planning is very important but I have the itch to buy a locomotive, DCC starter kit, some track & a couple of turnouts. So I made up a list for my initial purchase & thought I'd see what the good folks here thought. All comments & suggestions are very much welcome. By the way, the era that I going for will be the 1950's through the 1960's which will incorporate steam & diesel.
From Model Railroader Stuff:
NCE Power Cab starter set.
Atlas Masterline GP40-DCC equipped or Kato SD40-2 with TCS K1D4 decoder.
Micro Engineering code 55 flextrack (6 pieces at 36").
M.E. code 55 turnouts #6 (1 left & 1 right).
Thanks for your feedback...........Al.


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## Fifer (Apr 21, 2011)

fulsom56 said:


> I downloaded a software product called SCARM to draw up my track plan which really helps me visualize what I want for a layout. I also purchased 17 Model Railroader mags. off of EBay. Research & planning is very important but I have the itch to buy a locomotive, DCC starter kit, some track & a couple of turnouts. So I made up a list for my initial purchase & thought I'd see what the good folks here thought. All comments & suggestions are very much welcome. By the way, the era that I going for will be the 1950's through the 1960's which will incorporate steam & diesel.
> From Model Railroader Stuff:
> NCE Power Cab starter set.
> Atlas Masterline GP40-DCC equipped or Kato SD40-2 with TCS K1D4 decoder.
> ...


Al , it looks like the bug has bitten and you have the proper advice on what to do. May I suggest you take a look at my ACTRR layout build and my How To videos. I am sure you will find info you may need there.
Thanks , Mike


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## fulsom56 (Sep 18, 2015)

Fifer said:


> Al , it looks like the bug has bitten and you have the proper advice on what to do. May I suggest you take a look at my ACTRR layout build and my How To videos. I am sure you will find info you may need there.
> Thanks , Mike


 Hi Mike, just watched the first 4 videos & found them very informative. They give me a good idea how to set up the framework & set the risers. I too used homasote when I attempted to build a layout many years ago when I was teenager. Are you using 30" depth of layout because that's as far as you an reach comfortably? And what is the height of the layout?
Thanks .......Al. P.S. I'll be sure to check out supplies at Fifer Hobby.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Basement Empire!*

Fulsom56;

I am envious of your large basement, with 7' ceilings yet! I live in San Diego and my N scale railroad has to make do with a "California Basement"(garage). Actual basements are extremely rare in Calif.
With a 7' ceiling height, and an older home, I would recommend some space preparation, before starting layout construction. Many basement modelers hang a suspended ceiling, to minimize dust from the first floor above. This is also the best time to put up some Masonite, or other backdrop to hide the view of appliances, pipes,Etc. Consider if you have enough lighting and electrical outlets for your future empire. Room preparation has expense, and no fun attached, but doing it now is better than trying to do it after the layout is in place. If you decide to do any of these things, make sure you can remove anything you build to get access
for repairs to the washer, dryer, furnace, plumbing, Etc.
Now that I've thrown a wet blanket over your enthusiasm, may I recommend a couple of good books, to help revive/sustain said enthusiasm? First is an excellent basic how to book.
Title; "Beginner's guide to N scale model railroading" by Marty McGuirk. This one book covers everything you need to get started. Short simple illustrated chapters cover benchwork, wiring(including DCC) track, locomotives, cars, scenery, and other subjects. It concludes with step by step instructions on building an N scale railroad. I highly recommend starting your railroad with this book. The other book is "Track planing for realistic operation" by John Armstrong. This more advanced book covers how real railroads do things, how we can simulate them, and how to plan and build your railroad so that it will operate smoothly. Both books are available at kalmbach.com. 
You are lucky enough to have ample space for a very realistic layout in N scale. Don't try to see "how much you can fit in." many layouts end up being all track and no room for anything else. I agree with Don R's idea of a single track mainline with passing sidings. After all that's how nearly all track on most real railroads, is set up. Keep it simple, at least to start. Don't get carried away with putting a track here and another one there without knowing why a railroad would do so. Such a layout can quickly become a maintenance nightmare. 

Good Luck;

Traction Fan


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Basement Empire!*

I am envious of your large basement, with 7' ceilings yet! I live in San Diego and my N scale railroad has to make do with a "California Basement"(garage). Actual basements are extremely rare in Calif.
With a 7' ceiling height, and an older home, I would recommend some space preparation, before starting layout construction. Many basement modelers hang a suspended ceiling, to minimize dust from the first floor above. This is also the best time to put up some Masonite, or other backdrop to hide the view of appliances, pipes,Etc. Consider if you have enough lighting and electrical outlets for your future empire. Room preparation has expense, and no fun attached, but doing it now is better than trying to do it after the layout is in place. If you decide to do any of these things, make sure you can remove anything you build to get access
for repairs to the washer, dryer, furnace, plumbing, Etc.
Now that I've thrown a wet blanket over your enthusiasm, may I recommend a couple of good books, to help revive/sustain said enthusiasm? First is an excellent basic how to book.
Title; "Beginner's guide to N scale model railroading" by Marty McGuirk. This one book covers everything you need to get started. Short simple illustrated chapters cover benchwork, wiring(including DCC) track, locomotives, cars, scenery, and other subjects. It concludes with step by step instructions on building an N scale railroad. I highly recommend starting your railroad with this book. The other book is "Track planing for realistic operation" by John Armstrong. This more advanced book covers how real railroads do things, how we can simulate them, and how to plan and build your railroad so that it will operate smoothly. Both books are available at kalmbach.com. 
You are lucky enough to have ample space for a very realistic layout in N scale. Don't try to see "how much you can fit in." many layouts end up being all track and no room for anything else. I agree with Don R's idea of a single track mainline with passing sidings. After all that's how nearly all track on most real railroads, is set up. Keep it simple, at least to start. Don't get carried away with putting a track here and another one there without knowing why a railroad would do so. Such a layout can quickly become a maintenance nightmare. 

Good Luck;

Traction Fan 

Some photos of my N scale layout.







































Fulsom56;


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## Fifer (Apr 21, 2011)

fulsom56 said:


> Hi Mike, just watched the first 4 videos & found them very informative. They give me a good idea how to set up the framework & set the risers. I too used homasote when I attempted to build a layout many years ago when I was teenager. Are you using 30" depth of layout because that's as far as you an reach comfortably? And what is the height of the layout?
> Thanks .......Al. P.S. I'll be sure to check out supplies at Fifer Hobby.


Thanks Al , The layout is between 28-36" deep and is about 45" top table top.
We look forward to serving you as well.
Thanks , Mike


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## fulsom56 (Sep 18, 2015)

Thanks Traction Fan & your advise is well received. I'll pick up the books as part of my research. The basement is large enough to move the washer, dryer & sink to a far wall ( I just bought this house in August).I did consider lighting, a drop ceiling & how to setup the framework so that will be the first step. I also hear what your saying about a single mainline & overdoing quantity of track. I'll try to adhere to the saying: KISS.
Now about your photos: That little Black River shack is downright awesome. Great detail & scratch built I presume? Your bridges are beautiful too, especially the one spanning the tracks with truck on it.
I may have the space to build but you have the talent with scenery that I hope to emulate. Have a great day...........Al.


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## fulsom56 (Sep 18, 2015)

Fifer said:


> Thanks Al , The layout is between 28-36" deep and is about 45" top table top.
> We look forward to serving you as well.
> Thanks , Mike


 Mike, that depth is what I was thinking as far as 36" goes. I also like your website & selection of N gauge equipment-great prices...............Al.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Scratchbuilt andf kitbashed*

Fulsom56;

Glad to hear you are getting off to a good start! My advice is just that- advice. Whatever you want to do with your layout is fine as long as you are happy with it. The main thing I was trying to get across, is that some of the less fun but possibly needed(as determined by you) messy construction,is a lot easier to do before you have built a nice layout under it.
Thanks for the nice complements on my structures. All those shown are either scratch built,or kitbashed to represent Milwaukee Road prototypes. The little train order station at Black River is indeed scratchbuilt. The Northern Pacific prototype is shown in several photos in the book "Northwest Rail Pictorial", I worked from those photos. The semaphore lights and operates.
The project took much time and effort. Even the semaphore's lenses were scratchbuilt, cast from epoxy, and stained. Everything else in this structure is scratchbuilt from bass wood or brass.

Good luck on your own projects!

Traction Fan


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## pmcgurin (Sep 7, 2010)

How much do you need to budget for this? I disassembled my DC tracks when we were going to sell our house, but then my wife became overwhelmed by moving all the junk accumulated, so now I am thinking of doing something again.


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## Fifer (Apr 21, 2011)

pmcgurin said:


> How much do you need to budget for this? I disassembled my DC tracks when we were going to sell our house, but then my wife became overwhelmed by moving all the junk accumulated, so now I am thinking of doing something again.


They always say budget $200,000 and then if it is only $1000 you are in WAY under budget!!
:goofball:

Mike


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## fulsom56 (Sep 18, 2015)

I'm doing L girder framework & have access to 4x8 foot 1/2" plywood sheets (used but free) that I want to use for the sub roadbed. I've been reading that people use 3/4" plywood, but would 1/2" be strong enough? I'm able to acquire at least 8 sheets so this is one way I could save money. With the free plywood there are a lot of 2x4's ( also free)that I plan on planning down to 2x2's & 1x2's for the legs & girder flanges, this means I only need to buy 1x4's for the girders & joists.
Another option I'm considering is using homasote on top of the plywood sub roadbed. Also of note is that I have not come up with a solid plan for my railroad which needs to be done before I start cutting plywood.


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## Fifer (Apr 21, 2011)

fulsom56 said:


> I'm doing L girder framework & have access to 4x8 foot 1/2" plywood sheets (used but free) that I want to use for the sub roadbed. I've been reading that people use 3/4" plywood, but would 1/2" be strong enough? I'm able to acquire at least 8 sheets so this is one way I could save money. With the free plywood there are a lot of 2x4's ( also free)that I plan on planning down to 2x2's & 1x2's for the legs & girder flanges, this means I only need to buy 1x4's for the girders & joists.
> Another option I'm considering is using homasote on top of the plywood sub roadbed. Also of note is that I have not come up with a solid plan for my railroad which needs to be done before I start cutting plywood.


I would go with what you are planning on there with the exception of the Homasote. I have gotten two lessons with it in a few years. It swells and buckles in high humidity and is pretty unstable compared to foam sheets and is WAY more expensive. I would go foam on top.
Mike


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I've used Homosote on two layouts and had no problems with it, however
those layouts were always in climate controlled rooms.

The reason I used Homosote was that I was using 'spikes' to
attach the track. You can simply PUSH the spikes into the
product.

If you are not going to use spikes there is little other reason to
use it. Foam would be better, and if you want to do any streams,
lakes or ponds you can 'dig' in a 1 or 2 inch sheet.

With the right cross braces 1/2" or even 3/8" plywood is plenty strong for
a layout base. Use screws and bolts for construction so you can take it
apart for the change of plans that are guaranteed to occur.

Don

Don


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## fulsom56 (Sep 18, 2015)

Fifer said:


> I would go with what you are planning on there with the exception of the Homasote. I have gotten two lessons with it in a few years. It swells and buckles in high humidity and is pretty unstable compared to foam sheets and is WAY more expensive. I would go foam on top.
> Mike


 Thanks Fifer, how thick of foam do you use on top of the plywood?


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## Fifer (Apr 21, 2011)

fulsom56 said:


> Thanks Fifer, how thick of foam do you use on top of the plywood?


At the fair grounds we took off the Homasote and replaced it with 3/4" pink extruded foam and it has been fine with a girder every 4' , now for a home layout you may want it a little sturdier but once scenery is on top it becomes very strong.
Thanks , Mike


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Lumber*



fulsom56 said:


> I'm doing L girder framework & have access to 4x8 foot 1/2" plywood sheets (used but free) that I want to use for the sub roadbed. I've been reading that people use 3/4" plywood, but would 1/2" be strong enough? I'm able to acquire at least 8 sheets so this is one way I could save money. With the free plywood there are a lot of 2x4's ( also free)that I plan on planning down to 2x2's & 1x2's for the legs & girder flanges, this means I only need to buy 1x4's for the girders & joists.
> Another option I'm considering is using homasote on top of the plywood sub roadbed. Also of note is that I have not come up with a solid plan for my railroad which needs to be done before I start cutting plywood.


 Fulsom;

1/2" plywood is fine for sub roadbed. A lot of layouts were overbuilt, for various reasons. Some early club layouts were actually built to fill a room, and the members walked on top of the railroad to get in and out of the "foxholes" from which they operated! 
My own railroad has very unusual "benchwork" inspired by an old Model Railroader magazine
article called "bookshelf railroads". I loved the design, but hated the material the guy used.
Three quarter plywood arches and commercial shelves made of particle board! Each four foot section must have weighed 50 Lbs or more! I used much lighter lumber with a styrofoam core.
My four foot sections can be lifted with one finger and yet are strong enough to sit on.

One trick I use on my sub roadbed is gluing small side beams along both the undersides of all the sub roadbed. It ends up shaped like a deck girder bridge; and, for its size, is about as strong. Sort of a mini L girder.
This practically eliminates warping. I also paint all the wood as soon as possible to help prevent warping when I later start spraying water around to fasten ballast,dirt, leaves and other scenery materials.

Good start on your layout, and never turn down free lumber! 

Traction Fan

Photos below show one of my bookshelf railroad sections called Cedar Falls, The engine house there, and the styrofoam/1/4" luan ply material I call "lightwood". I used lightwood to make the arches that frame the railroad and support the, what else, books, on the top shelf.


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## fulsom56 (Sep 18, 2015)

Hi, I cleared the area to give an idea of where the bench work will be built & the dimensions of the layout. I call this a dog bone, L shape layout which is 17 feet by 13 feet. The end section by the sewer drain is 6.5 feet long by 3.5 feet wide. I'm limited here by the pipe on one side & the circuit breaker box on the other. On the far end (where the sink needs to be moved) is 5 feet long by 4 feet wide & I'm at my limit here due to the water heater & wash machine. The middle section is 34 inches wide & I plan on having the grid style bench 36" high. The farthest back that I want to lay track/turnouts would be 30 inches. The wall is stone foundation that rises 54 inches with a 1 foot wide ledge. 
Any & all comments/tips are very much welcome. What would you do differently?


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Suggestions*



fulsom56 said:


> Hi, I cleared the area to give an idea of where the bench work will be built & the dimensions of the layout. I call this a dog bone, L shape layout which is 17 feet by 13 feet. The end section by the sewer drain is 6.5 feet long by 3.5 feet wide. I'm limited here by the pipe on one side & the circuit breaker box on the other. On the far end (where the sink needs to be moved) is 5 feet long by 4 feet wide & I'm at my limit here due to the water heater & wash machine. The middle section is 34 inches wide & I plan on having the grid style bench 36" high. The farthest back that I want to lay track/turnouts would be 30 inches. The wall is stone foundation that rises 54 inches with a 1 foot wide ledge.
> Any & all comments/tips are very much welcome. What would you do differently?[/QUO
> 
> Looks good !
> ...


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## fulsom56 (Sep 18, 2015)

traction fan said:


> fulsom56 said:
> 
> 
> > Hi, I cleared the area to give an idea of where the bench work will be built & the dimensions of the layout. I call this a dog bone, L shape layout which is 17 feet by 13 feet. The end section by the sewer drain is 6.5 feet long by 3.5 feet wide. I'm limited here by the pipe on one side & the circuit breaker box on the other. On the far end (where the sink needs to be moved) is 5 feet long by 4 feet wide & I'm at my limit here due to the water heater & wash machine. The middle section is 34 inches wide & I plan on having the grid style bench 36" high. The farthest back that I want to lay track/turnouts would be 30 inches. The wall is stone foundation that rises 54 inches with a 1 foot wide ledge.
> ...


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Sounds OK*



fulsom56 said:


> traction fan said:
> 
> 
> > Yup, the pipe is there to stay but I kept 20"s from the narrowest point. I also did not extend that end any further out knowing the pipe may have to be worked on some day. All other walking areas around the layout have at a minimum 34"s of clearance.
> ...


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## fulsom56 (Sep 18, 2015)

Hi everyone, just thought I'd update the progress on my basement railroad. I included some photo's of the L girder framework which is approx. 17 feet x 16 feet with peninsula's on both ends. The larger peninsula will be my locomotive terminal/yard which will lead out on a 2% grade into the rocky mountains. I have some track set temporarily to give me an idea of what I'm working with. I just completed the backdrop & painted it sky blue as a base.
So far it's been a lot of fun just to get to this point. I work on it most weekends & nights when I have time. Thanks for all the help on this forum.............Al.


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## Fifer (Apr 21, 2011)

fulsom56 said:


> Hi everyone, just thought I'd update the progress on my basement railroad. I included some photo's of the L girder framework which is approx. 17 feet x 16 feet with peninsula's on both ends. The larger peninsula will be my locomotive terminal/yard which will lead out on a 2% grade into the rocky mountains. I have some track set temporarily to give me an idea of what I'm working with. I just completed the backdrop & painted it sky blue as a base.
> So far it's been a lot of fun just to get to this point. I work on it most weekends & nights when I have time. Thanks for all the help on this forum.............Al.


Looks Great and glad you put tee nuts and bolts on the bottom of the legs. It makes life easier down the road. Funny , you are putting a turntable in and I am taking one out.
Mike

:smilie_daumenpos:


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## silver69 (Dec 20, 2013)

very nice!
Looking forward to your progress photos.

Steve


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## Colinkun (Dec 2, 2015)

Looking good and giving me some ideas. I'm behind you in the planning and research phase, but starting to throw together some lumber and itching to get started. 

I'm also still negotiating for how much space I will be "allowed" to use in our basement.


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## fulsom56 (Sep 18, 2015)

Colinkun said:


> Looking good and giving me some ideas. I'm behind you in the planning and research phase, but starting to throw together some lumber and itching to get started.
> 
> I'm also still negotiating for how much space I will be "allowed" to use in our basement.


For me, figuring out the space was the easy part. I still do not have a concrete plan on the exact layout. I spend a lot of time looking at other track plans in books, model railroader & on the net. I do know that I want to model the steam/diesel era of the 40's & 50's. I also will be modeling a rocky mountain DRG&W layout with a mixture of coal & freight service to various industries. I've been researching various routes of the DRG&W railroad including Pueblo to Salida (Royal Gorge) the Moffat Tunnel , Tennessee Pass & a coal hauling route that includes your home state of Utah. I'd like to say that I want a prototypical layout but at this point I see it being more freelanced but still holding to the main theme. Also, there I times I just get stuck in thought on how my plan will evolve but I just lay it aside, & come back to it later with fresh ideas.
On a side note, I ride a Harley & have been through Colorado & Utah a few times which is why I picked the DRG&W as my theme.


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## fulsom56 (Sep 18, 2015)

Colinkun said:


> Looking good and giving me some ideas. I'm behind you in the planning and research phase, but starting to throw together some lumber and itching to get started.
> 
> I'm also still negotiating for how much space I will be "allowed" to use in our basement.


For me, figuring out the space was the easy part. I still do not have a concrete plan on the exact layout. I spend a lot of time looking at other track plans in books, model railroader & on the net. I do know that I want to model the steam/diesel era of the 40's & 50's. I also will be modeling a rocky mountain DRG&W layout with a mixture of coal & freight service to various industries. I've been researching various routes of the DRG&W railroad including Pueblo to Salida (Royal Gorge) the Moffat Tunnel , Tennessee Pass & a coal hauling route that includes your home state of Utah. I'd like to say that I want a prototypical layout but at this point I see it being more freelanced but still holding to the main theme. Also, there I times I just get stuck in thought on how my plan will evolve but I just lay it aside, & come back to it later with fresh ideas.
On a side note, I ride a Harley & have been through Colorado & Utah a few times which is why I picked the DRG&W as my theme. Here are 2 photos from Silverton, Co.


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