# 290



## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Saved this 290 from the boneyard. Another basket case. I had a fairly decent tender so I didn't do any work on it except for the usual service on the reverse unit. Boiler sheel was stripped of everything, sand-blasted, and re-sprayed with satin black. New dry rub transfers from Doug Peck. This one is a real sweetheart; reverse unit cycles 100%, lots of smoke, choo choo, and head-light, and fast on the rails.:smilie_daumenpos:


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Very pretty....


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## Aflyer (Nov 10, 2010)

Flyernut, that looks great, those dry rub transfers are so much better than the water slide decals.

Nice job,
Aflyer


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Another nice engine restoration. For information, PortLines Hobbies sell stamps and ink so the engines and tenders can be correctly restamped as was done at the factory. They will also stamp the engines and tenders for you if you choose.
Regarding the water tank the prewar version looks good. There are actually three postwar water tanks. The 596 with its lowering spout is common and somewhat out of scale. There are two different 772 tanks with the bubbling tubes. The well known one is the checkerboard tank with the shed on the base. The earlier versions had either a red or gray smaller diameter tank without the shed on the base. I am partial to those water tanks. However they are not trackside accessories, they are relevant to industrial or city scenes.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

AmFlyer said:


> Another nice engine restoration. For information, PortLines Hobbies sell stamps and ink so the engines and tenders can be correctly restamped as was done at the factory. They will also stamp the engines and tenders for you if you choose.
> Regarding the water tank the prewar version looks good. There are actually three postwar water tanks. The 596 with its lowering spout is common and somewhat out of scale. There are two different 772 tanks with the bubbling tubes. The well known one is the checkerboard tank with the shed on the base. The earlier versions had either a red or gray smaller diameter tank without the shed on the base. I am partial to those water tanks. However they are not trackside accessories, they are relevant to industrial or city scenes.


I had a ton of those stamps.. I could never get any of them to work right, so off they went to ebay.. Let someone else figure them out,lol..


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Thanks for the feedback. I bought two stamps for a 322AC. After some practice I was able to get them to work. I agree it was not easy. Now if I had some engines I wanted done right I would send the shells to Portlines and let them do the stamping.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

AmFlyer said:


> Thanks for the feedback. I bought two stamps for a 322AC. After some practice I was able to get them to work. I agree it was not easy. Now if I had some engines I wanted done right I would send the shells to Portlines and let them do the stamping.


You'd better believe it,lol.. There's definitely a knack, and I didn't have the patience to learn said knack,lol.


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## daveh219 (Sep 16, 2012)

Flyer...when you say you had the engine "sand blasted" was that professionally or did you do it your self?? If yourself, what did/do you use to get it done...


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

daveh219 said:


> Flyer...when you say you had the engine "sand blasted" was that professionally or did you do it your self?? If yourself, what did/do you use to get it done...


Hi Dave... I have my own pressurized sand-blasting unit. At one time I had a pressurized cabinet, but sold it. I've restored several cars of my own as well as for friends, and the sand-blasting unit has come in very handy. It will literally take the flesh off your bones if you're not careful. It's one of the most versatile tools I own, and I love it. It takes about 20 seconds to completely remove all the paint/corrosion/rust off the shell, and leave it ready to paint. The blasting gives the surface a nice "tooth" for the paint to adhere.. It will not help with pitting, etc, that has already been embedded in the shell. You must be careful though, on what you want to blast. Anything thin, like a tin tender, is a no-no. Heat from the blasting will cause the thin metal to warp, ruining the tender. Tin tenders are stripped using paint stripper from the hardware store, and then finished with my dremel and fine grit sanding discs. I then use a self-etching primer on the tender, as the rust in the fake coal load is very hard to remove completely because of the texture of the coal load. Self-etching primer will stop the rusting process if 99% of the rust is removed. The primer helps with the "stain" the rust leaves.I do remove everything off the shell, such as the bell and whistle, and polish them by hand. There are several mediums you can use, such as "black beauty" or regular sand, and I use regular play sand to get the job done. I strain the sand going into the blasting container as a small stone will clog up the unit. If you do a lot of blasting in the open air, you should wear some type of respirator, as you can get a lung problem from the blasting media. Sorry for being so long-winded,lol. The blaster I use can be found at Eastwood Company, or even at Harbor freight. If you would like some shells blasted, send them to me, and I'll be happy to blast them for you.. Just pay the shipping both ways...Flyernut.


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## Old feller (Mar 30, 2012)

Flyernut,

This winter I hope to start restoring a bunch of AF items. And have been thinking a sand blaster would be very useful. Your post seems to indicate you have something other than the big cabinet type? If so any info would be appreciated.

Thanks


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

oldfeller said:


> Flyernut,
> 
> This winter I hope to start restoring a bunch of AF items. And have been thinking a sand blaster would be very useful. Your post seems to indicate you have something other than the big cabinet type? If so any info would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks


Howdy.. I have a stand-alone type blaster. If you go to the Harbor Freight web-site, the one I have is similar to the 110lb pressurized abrasive blaster, Item # 60696. I had the cabinet type, but what happens there is that the particles bouncing around inside the cabinet will hit the plexi-glass, causing it to fog over and scratch. Then you can't see what you're doing... I actually had a small little business sand-blasting items for people, such as car parts, frames,tractor rims,etc. Make sure you have a compressor that can handle the out-flow of air a blaster requires. You must also make sure the media is bone dry, as any wetness in the media will cause the blaster to plug up. I have a piping system in my garage with 3 down-pipes to collect any water generated by the compressor, as well as 2 in-line dryers to assure dryness. I also have a portable down-pipe and dryer set-up I can take with me to other jobs, car restorations for friends,etc... If you do a lot of blasting, make sure you have some type of respirator. The very small particles of sand will get into you're lungs, and you'll get sick. If I get around to it today, I'll take some pictures for you of what I have.. As an after-thought, you CAN NOT blast thin type metals such as a tin tender. The blasting generates a ton of heat, and will warp thinner metals immediately.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

This is the compressor I use. A bigger, faster recovery one would be better if you did large jobs, but this one suits me fine.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

My dryers and drop-downs. There's 3 drop-downs and 2 dryers.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Finally, my blaster, and it's full of sand right now,lol. Black Beauty and regular play sand are what I use. Not so much the black beauty because of the cost. Play sand works perfectly, and I like the "tooth" it puts on the finished product.. Just right to hold paint.:smilie_daumenpos:


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Please excuse the dirty garage; it's a garage and not the living room,lol... I forgot to mention, I also drain the air tank on the compressor to get rid of the water generated by the compressor. That compressor, by the way, is approx. 25 years old, and still going strong.:smilie_daumenpos:


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## Aflyer (Nov 10, 2010)

flyernut said:


> Please excuse the dirty garage; it's a garage and not the living room,lol... I forgot to mention, I also drain the air tank on the compressor to get rid of the water generated by the compressor. That compressor, by the way, is approx. 25 years old, and still going strong.:smilie_daumenpos:


Flyernut,
The garage looks just fine, but we need a better view of the picture above the air separator/filter is that your Camero?

Aflyer


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

No , it's a Nova


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Aflyer said:


> Flyernut,
> The garage looks just fine, but we need a better view of the picture above the air separator/filter is that your Camero?
> 
> Aflyer


Great eyes buddy.. That's a friends of mine 73 Z-28. Quick car, he runs it in the 1/8 mile here at the local track. The last time I talked to him he was running a 'glide with 5:38 gears in the back end. Not quite sure of the gear ratio exactly, but I knew they were in the 5:00's. He also has a 69 Z-28 that has never been registered; it was/is being dragged from day 1.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> No , it's a Nova


Your eyes are failing you buddy,lol!! I know you know I have a 69 Nova, and it's almost the same color as that Z-28 in the picture..I see you're keeping track of me,lol... Glad to have you as a friend Don...:smilie_daumenpos:


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## 400E Blue Comet (Jul 11, 2014)

Nice. Really shiny. I think I have that one but it needs a couple parts. The piston guiding thing is missing and I had to put the piston crank on with a screw as it was missing the nut.
If you thought that was bad... Don't even get me started on my American Flyer 234


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## Aflyer (Nov 10, 2010)

flyernut said:


> Great eyes buddy.. That's a friends of mine 73 Z-28. Quick car, he runs it in the 1/8 mile here at the local track. The last time I talked to him he was running a 'glide with 5:38 gears in the back end. Not quite sure of the gear ratio exactly, but I knew they were in the 5:00's. He also has a 69 Z-28 that has never been registered; it was/is being dragged from day 1.


I knew you had the Nova, thought you might have added a Camaro to to keep it company, lol. The trains are a little cheaper to play with.

Aflyer


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## longbow57ca (Oct 26, 2015)

Hello, You sure did a nice job on painting American Flyer #290 it now looks like new great job. Thanks longbow57ca.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

longbow57ca said:


> Hello, You sure did a nice job on painting American Flyer #290 it now looks like new great job. Thanks longbow57ca.


Thanks for the kind words.


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## longbow57ca (Oct 26, 2015)

Hello, The American Flyer #290 is one my favorite engines a very good pulling engine and smokes good too I just love that engine. Thanks longbow57ca.


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## longbow57ca (Oct 26, 2015)

Hello, flyernut, It is nice to talk too and meet nice people that are nuts about American Flyer trains as I am. I am a American Flyer nut too. I am 58 years old, I have been playing with American flyer Trains since I was a child of 5 years old and still run them and collect them as a hobby. I also collect Marx trains a well. I have a lot American Flyer and Marx Trains my favorite trains. I also have some Lionel trains not many mostly American flyer and Marx trains. Thanks longbow57ca. PS have a great day.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

longbow57ca said:


> Hello, flyernut, It is nice to talk too and meet nice people that are nuts about American Flyer trains as I am. I am a American Flyer nut too. I am 58 years old, I have been playing with American flyer Trains since I was a child of 5 years old and still run them and collect them as a hobby. I also collect Marx trains a well. I have a lot American Flyer and Marx Trains my favorite trains. I also have some Lionel trains not many mostly American flyer and Marx trains. Thanks longbow57ca. PS have a great day.


Dad got me started with flyers.. We had 4 sets.. A K335 Northern, a 302, a 355 diesel, and a MP diesel. I believe I have approx 30-40 engines, with about 200 pieces of rolling stock. I literally have no place to put them, lol.. Most are boxed up in large plastic tubs. My current layout is a L shape, 12 feet in 2 legs being the longest run.4 loops all together, with the outside loop O gauge..Nice talking to you buddy....


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## longbow57ca (Oct 26, 2015)

Hello, Ya I know what you mean when say you got all most of your American Flyer trains boxed up in large plastic tubs, I have about 10 plastic tubs full of American Flyer and Marx trains stacked up in my room with my small layout. At least they are there when I want to run them. Boy those tubs sure get heavy the older we get I think to move them. Thanks longbow57ca.


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