# Tech info on Lionel Locomotive 2026



## Tom Barnett (Jan 13, 2013)

I have come into the possession of an 027 Lionel Locomotive #2026 cir. 1948, and have yet to decide if it is a pleasure or a curse, since I cannot figure out how to get into the thing to check it out. When I tried to logical approach of removing the shell, the drive mechanism virtually fell apart in my hands and I reversed course immediately. I need detailed step by step instructions on how to remove the shell and will appreciate the information or recommendations on where to get it. Thanks.
Tom Barnett


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You'll find it attached to this post, enjoy.


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## BillCN (Jan 6, 2013)

*Lionel*

This might be useful.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Welcome to the site.
I guess your talking about the drive rods?

They will drop when you loosen the screws to take the shell off, just look at how they are before you take it off they will go back the same way.

Take yourself a couple of pictures before hand so you can see where they sit. 
I don't think the link that John posted will show their positions.

I will go and look again at his link, if you need help by all means don't be afraid to ask here.
Between all of us we will help you get it back together.

Also take note how the smoke unit rod sits before you take the shell off.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Tom,

I'm in the process of restoring a prewar 1668 which has essentially the same motor. If you need tips on servicing the motor, please ask, and/or check out this thread:

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=16318

TJ


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## BillCN (Jan 6, 2013)

==
Look something like these?
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## Tom Barnett (Jan 13, 2013)

*Follow up question on the Lionel 2026*

Gentlemen, I appreciate all the responses and detailed information. It is all very helpful and I will use it. I do have two follow up questions. What screws do I remove to release the motor from the shell? Do I need remove the motor retaining pin as part of the process of extracting the motor from the shell? Again, my thanks for all the input.
Tom Barnett


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

If you have the front wheels and steam chest removed, which it sounds like. There is a single screw on the top behind the smoke stack that must come out. Yes, the retaining pin must come out. You can flatten the point on a nail if you don't have the proper sized punch. It shouldn't take a lot of power to knock it out, too hard and you can crack the shell.

Carl


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## Tom Barnett (Jan 13, 2013)

Hello, Kwikster:
Yeah, I got myself into a mess too. Got the front off and the godawful drive rods all fell on the bench. Then I bent one of the hand rail type wires in the front of the engine. I somehow got everything back and place and, suprisingly it still runs. Does the 2026 require any lubercation other that the wheels. I have a 2020 that requires grease? Also the connector slides on the bottom of the 2026 show deep wear which causes the engine to stop as it direction of movement was being changed. Any advice on replacing them? Thanks.
Tom Barnett


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Tom,

Many guys here use 5W-20 or 5W-30 motor oil for lube. Gears, wheel axles, armature bearing points, drive rod linkage components, e-unit drum "nib" bearings and plunger slide, etc.

Clean the commutator armature face and brushes while you're at it, too.

The 2026 has pickup shoes, rather than rollers, if I recall. Jeff Kane at the Train Tender is a good source for replacements. If you need the shoes, I think they are 1661-33.

To replace, go in through the end/bottom of the motor with a small, flathead screwdriver. Gently lift of the copper flat springplate that holds the shoe. The screwdriver should be between the plate and the shoe. Push the screwdriver back a bit, lifting in the process. This will allow the tab at the back of the shoe to fall out of the slot in the plate. Re-install via reverse procedure.

TJ


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## santafe158 (Jul 14, 2010)

Kwikster said:


> If you have the front wheels and steam chest removed, which it sounds like. There is a single screw on the top behind the smoke stack that must come out. Yes, the retaining pin must come out. You can flatten the point on a nail if you don't have the proper sized punch. It shouldn't take a lot of power to knock it out, too hard and you can crack the shell.
> 
> Carl


I also usually tap on the opposite end from the side with the grooves stamped into it. That way the grooved end comes out first and all you have to do is slide it out.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Jake is correct, the knurled end should come out first.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I have a retaining pin on one of my Scout locos.

Is there a rule that Lionel used as to which side of the pin has the knurled end? Left or right? I never remember which, and when I look at my Scout, it's near impossible to tell which end of the pin is knurled, as installed.

TJ

Edit ... I found this old post for my 233. But is this side-convention a Rule for all other locos ???



tjcruiser said:


> I have a 233 Scout, which is a bit different from yours. However, on that one, the rod has a knurled right side end which is friction-fit into the loco shell. I remove the rod easily by tapping its LEFT end with a nail set to gently drive the rod out of the RIGHT side of the loco.
> 
> (I think some Scouts have screw-in rods, but others -- like the 233 and perhaps yours -- have the friction-fit rods.)
> 
> ...


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I think they were consistent, though I don't do enough of the old PW stuff now to be sure. T-Man is the man to ask.


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