# Newbie, Some Questions



## Polarbear (Jul 29, 2012)

Hello all,

This seems like a very helpful forum with kind and helpful people, so I thought I would join in. A quick bit about me: used to have a train when I was about 7-8 years old, put away because I was growing up and grown up kids don't play with trains (right?) and I left it in its box until I picked it up a couple of weeks ago (30+years later...) to see if my son (6 years old) wants to play with it for a few years or his younger brother (4 months, so maybe in a few years?). 

I've done some searching but didn't find the exact answers to my questions which I'm sure you'll find basic. ANyway, I'll keep this short. I'm trying to get my old early 70s 8300 Santa Fe Lionel (O27) train back on the rails. I've cleaned the engine's motor and oiled it and it seems to turn somewhat better than before (not sure if it's clean enough). When I put it on the rail to test it (not long, just a test), it barely moved, picking up very little speed. Would it be because I need to clean it more, or maybe the missing pins (broke too many while young) between the rails? Could the transformer be shut--do these corrode over time or something? Or the tiny wires that go from the transformer to the rails? Or all of the above? ...... 

I know I still need to clean the rails with alcohol but I was also hoping for some suggestions as to what I need to do next. I'll even just take some keywords to do a search on this site if someones wants to give me that so I can get to my answers. 

Thank you kindly,
C


----------



## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

Polarbear, welcome to the forum! I'd like to start you out with a few suggestions; I'm sure others will add more as they come along.

Your train has been out of action for a while, so there will be several things to check as you bring it back on line. Let's assume you've already checked the transformer and have power: let's talk about the tracks. Start with where your wires connect to the transformer and make sure they are clean and the connection is tight. Move to where your wires connect to the track: use a pencil eraser, a nylon scrubbing pad, anything but steel wool or sandpaper, which have no business in the same room as your train. I like an automotive product called GooGone to clean all track surfaces and connectors, with a Scotchbrite pad, followed by a rubdown with isopropyl alcohol, the higher the concentration, the better. This should be used to clean any part of your track and connections. Pins between tracks are a must: they carry the current and also need to be clean. Once your track is clean, keep the train away from it! Your wheels are dirty and will simply transfer the **** and oil to the track.

Take your locomotive and use the same GooGone and alcohol process on your wheels and roller, getting them nice and clean. Set it down on a paper towel and continue to clean the wheels on your cars. Once this is done, you can put it on the tracks and give it a whirl.


----------



## Polarbear (Jul 29, 2012)

Hello Reckers,
Ok, good suggestion. I know I have more cleaning to do. 
Thanks for the advice. 
C


----------



## Carl (Feb 19, 2012)

Polarbear.....welcome to the site and as indicated, a clean track is necessary to check the operation of a engine.


----------



## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

PolarBear, once you get that much done, you'll know if the problem was in your setup (the tranny and track) or if it's in your locomotive: you're halfway home. Any problem after that is probably cleaning up the electric motor, something that sounds a lot more difficult than it is.

Best wishes,


----------



## santafe158 (Jul 14, 2010)

If you have missing pins, you definitely need those to operate the train. You can find them online or in a hobby store. Just make sure they're the right ones for your track. If it's a starter set from the 80's, then it's probably O-27. Regular O gauge pins would be too big for your rails.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

There are many threads on maintenance of Lionel stuff in the O-Gauge forum here, I'm guessing the first step is as already mentioned, cleaning and lubing the locomotive and cleaning the track and pins.


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Good advice from our members, above!

This service / spec doc might be your loco ...

http://www.lionel.com/media/servicedocuments/18300Complete.pdf

Make sure the track connection pins are tight. Bend the center pin slightly one way, and one of the side pins slightly the other way ... this will induce some friction when you join two tracks together, and help with the electrical conductivity.

Regards,

TJ


----------



## Polarbear (Jul 29, 2012)

Thank you all for the good info. This confirms what I thought at first: this forum is full of good knowledgeable souls wiling to help. I hope I can return the favor some day. 

If I can abuse some more of your time and knowledge, I have another question. 

I've purchased another similar locomotive (since the original one has the "hook" for the tender broken behind the screw that hold it and I thought it would be easier than trying to fix it) and, after cleaning and lubing them all the best I could, and making sure I have tight pins between rail sections in a small circular test track, the locomotives (both) are still barely moving with the transformer at full power. 

I've replaced the wires from the transformer to the tracks with heavier gauge, no difference. I now think it may be the transformer--one side of the case is cracked anyway. I have an old blue 50 watts in/25 watts out transformer from the 70s. Could this be the problem? 

If I wanted to replace/update the transformer, what should I look for to insure compatibility with the old O27 train from that era? Not sure I would features/specs are required. 

Thank you all. 

C


----------



## Polarbear (Jul 29, 2012)

tjcruiser said:


> Good advice from our members, above!
> 
> This service / spec doc might be your loco ...
> 
> ...


TJCruiser,
Yes, this is the right diagram for both locos I own. The 8300 SantaFe. Thanks, this is useful since I had never opened one up for cleaning or repairs before. 
C


----------



## Swhite503 (May 14, 2012)

Polarbear, if I were you I would buy a cheap digital multi-meter.
I got mine for less than ten bucks. Check the transformer 
leads to see what kind of voltage it puts out as you increase
the speed knob. This will tell you if it's the transformer or no.
You can check other parts of the track the same way. I couldn't
Railroad without one. 

Steve


----------



## UPBigBoy (Jan 2, 2012)

Also make sure you are putting AC current to the track and not DC power.


----------



## Polarbear (Jul 29, 2012)

Already have one for my bike... I will take it out and see what the numbers are. Thanks for the suggestions. 
C


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Harbor Freight has a neat little Clamp-On Meter that not only does the normal multi-meter stuff but also allows AC current readings without breaking a wire. Very handy around the train room.


----------



## Swhite503 (May 14, 2012)

that's great, Gunrunner, but the clamp is for checking amperage, we're talking voltage. Also that meter will cost $100.00 or more. Unless you're talking high voltage I wouldn't worry about the amperage, unless you're worried about tripping a 15 amp breaker in your breaker box, which I don't think will happen. We need to be checking voltage here, and continuity (electrical connection). That seems to be the problem. Before I started buying transformers and such I would get to the core of the problem, which a simple multi-meter (voltage meter) could tell you and then go from there. That's simple 101 electronics.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I think you missed my point. 

This obviously does voltages as well, but for AC powered train layouts, the ability to measure current comes in handy regularly. Being able to measure without taking stuff apart is obviously desired.

This meter doesn't cost $100 or more, it actually sells for $11.99! I have one, and it's actually quite accurate, I've checked it against a Fluke bench meter and it's within 1% on all scales. That's pretty good for a $12 meter with this capability.


----------



## manchesterjim (Dec 30, 2011)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> That's pretty good for a $12 meter with this capability.


Dawggonnit John!!!  Now I'm gonna have to stop by the Harbor Freight store after work and pick one up! 

Jim


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Even though I have an AW Sperry clamp-on, this one was such a nice little meter that I decided I could use a second one for my traveling toolbox.


----------

