# suggestions needed



## J.C. (Dec 24, 2016)

anyone have any ideas on how to make the porch posts in attached photo? the only thing I can think of is to mill them out of .250 square styrene as I can find any thing close to them premade.


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## Tom_C (Jan 8, 2016)

You could look at supplies for architectural models, but I just did a quick look (really quick) and didn't see any premade columns. 

For material you could use balsa wood.

ADDED: One way to do it would be to use balsa sheets and cut out a square the size of the header or base of one of the columns. Then cut out another one larger or smaller to match the shape of the column, and stack it on the last one until you get the shape of the column header/base you are trying to duplicate. For the column itself just cut tapered strips, wide at the bottom and narrow at the top and piece them together.

http://www.draftingsuppliesdew.com/alvin-balsa-wood-sheets


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## Overkast (Jan 16, 2015)

Square wood dowels sanded down at an angle? That's probably what I would do at least...


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## Tom_C (Jan 8, 2016)

Overkast said:


> Square wood dowels sanded down at an angle? That's probably what I would do at least...


Yeah, and then build the header and base with balsa or any other stiff material.


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## J.C. (Dec 24, 2016)

thanks for the reply's but the rest of the building is styrene(my preferred medium).

T.C. that's the way I was going to do the base and cap but its the layout for the centers that's is the problem , I thought about cutting it out as you said but the top of center column is only 6 scale inches making it hard to hold to bevel , hence it would be easier to use square edges making the side piece only .20 wide at the top using .020 sheet again small , that's why I saw contemplating milling them out of .250 square styrene . drawback there is the setup makes my head spin.


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## Tom_C (Jan 8, 2016)

I asked my wife who is an architect, and she said you're better off to use a square dowel and widdle it down (sand, whatever) to make the tapered column and then use the method I described to make the base and cap. She said it's easier to widdle down than build up at that scale.

ADDED: I'm not familiar with styrene, is it hard like plastic? Perhaps you could use some sort of foam dowel the size you need for the base, and use an exacto to cut the bevel on 2 sides, then turn 90 degrees and cut the bevel on the other 2 sides. could also use balsa?


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

Tom_C said:


> ADDED: I'm not familiar with styrene, is it hard like plastic?


You're familiar with styrene, you just don't know you are. Styrene is the hard plastic that the vast majority of plastic models and model railroad structure kits are made of.


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## Tom_C (Jan 8, 2016)

flyboy2610 said:


> You're familiar with styrene, you just don't know you are. Styrene is the hard plastic that the vast majority of plastic models and model railroad structure kits are made of.


Ah. Then I would get something that can be carved with an exacto blade. Start with a square dowel the size of the base, and then cut it to the bevel needed for the size at the cap.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Carving and sanding look like hard work and you might not get the two the same. I'd use card, cut the four sides, make two formers and glue them together with Uhu. The detail top and bottom can be cut from card too and added to each end. Bit fiddly but you'd be sure of getting both the same.


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## Nikola (Jun 11, 2012)

This is one of those times where 3D printing is your friend. I'll bet that with a little googling you would find someone to help.


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

The way those posts were actually constructed is probably the easiest. Four boards are tapered and assembled just like the sides of a box (the ends being the top and bottom). 

You could do the same with styrene. A template would help keep the pieces uniform. 

In homes where they need to be replaced we always find a center column (4x4) that actually carries the weight of the porch roof.


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## Tom_C (Jan 8, 2016)

rkenney said:


> In homes where they need to be replaced we always find a center column (4x4) that actually carries the weight of the porch roof.


Hence the reason the left column in the photo is so off center.


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## J.C. (Dec 24, 2016)

Cycleops card stock is out .

Nikola I live on the fringes of civilization finding some one close with a 3D printer is slightly better than winning the lottery but not that much.

Bob I did know how they did it in the real world but I need three of them trying to taper is hard and going with a square edge makes the side pieces thin at top that's why I was leaning tword milling them. this model is going to be entered in the fall NMRA meet.


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## Nikola (Jun 11, 2012)

J.C. said:


> Nikola I live on the fringes of civilization finding some one close with a 3D printer is slightly better than winning the lottery but not that much.


Use the Google to search Maker Groups. You will never have to leave your home. There are:

- libraries of preexisting shape files

- tools to create your own design files

- folks happy to do it for you, especially for such basic shapes.

Similarly, there are individuals and businesses happy to print the files for you. They will mail you the parts.

Given the challenges of working with styrene to accurately create those angles, 3D printing is probably a good alternative.


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## J.C. (Dec 24, 2016)

Nikola said:


> Use the Google to search Maker Groups. You will never have to leave your home. There are:
> 
> - libraries of preexisting shape files
> 
> ...


the problem with farming it out would disqualify it from scratch built as it would be viewed as premade parts.


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## Nikola (Jun 11, 2012)

J.C. said:


> the problem with farming it out would disqualify it from scratch built as it would be viewed as premade parts.


Well, that is a dilemma you have to reconcile for yourself.

You are not making your own styrene stock, correct? Or forging your own X-Acto blades?

It's your decision where and how to draw the line.


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## J.C. (Dec 24, 2016)

Nikola;1613650
It's your decision where and how to draw the line.[/QUOTE said:


> its not mine its all laid out in the NMRA contest rules


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

J.C. said:


> its not mine its all laid out in the NMRA contest rules


But the rules still allow for some degree of interpretation and flexibility. The primary distinction is between scratch building and kit construction, where the kit contains large prefabricated sections.

I think you're reading way too much into this. The relevant guidelines state, "Scratch Built - This class is intended for models built largely from basic or scratch materials. However, any model may be included in this classification. The decision is up to the entrant. Entries in the scratch built class are eligible for full point scores on all factors including scratch built..."

The key there is "largely". You're not going to disqualify yourself by using a 3D printed part, just like people win these contests all the time by using door and window castings, prefabricated pilasters and railings, stairs, and other parts. It's about your application of the techniques, not creating each part from raw materials.

If the judges think you have used too many pre-fabricated parts, you may lose some points, but you will gain far more by your accurate reproduction of the original than you might lose by having a 3D printed column.


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## J.C. (Dec 24, 2016)

CTValleyRR said:


> The key there is "largely". You're not going to disqualify yourself by using a 3D printed part, just like people win these contests all the time by using door and window castings, prefabricated pilasters and railings, stairs, and other parts. It's about your application of the techniques, not creating each part from raw materials.



well I have had two models disqualified because of using premade parts if I were to print the parts it might fly but this is for my master builder.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

J.C. said:


> well I have had two models disqualified because of using premade parts if I were to print the parts it might fly but this is for my master builder.


So it's for the Achievement program, not a contest. Still, while I can't account for individual judges, here again, "NO premade parts" is overly restrictive.

Consider: "A model is considered "scratchbuilt" if at least 90% of the model's pieces/parts (other than those specifically exempted in the list above) are fabricated by the modeler. This is a quantitative assessment based on the number of pieces with no weight given to complexity. This is a separate determination from the scratch building score."

Even were this NOT true, part of the reason I personally have no interest in the NMRA certifications is that their ideas and standards tend to get stuck in previous eras, while technology blows by them. Since you are allowed to buy one prefab part to use as a model while making the rest, I don't see how a 3D printed part is any different. Print one and cast the other(s) if you feel it will improve your chances.


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## J.C. (Dec 24, 2016)

CTValleyRR said:


> Still, while I can't account for individual judges, here again, "NO premade parts" is overly restrictive.


here in lies the problem , the two who seem to have assigned them selves as permeant judges are a couple north ends of a south bound horse one has never entered a scratch built or any contest for that matter , just trying to get around them, like I said if I my self could print them it might fly , but buying them is out


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## Overkast (Jan 16, 2015)

I still think sanding square wooden dowels with a fine sandpaper is your best bet. If you're worried about the grainy texture of sanding not blending well with the rest of the structure being in styrene, you can always go over it with a super thin coat of spackle or Flex n' Fill and then sand again to get a super smooth finish. Once you paint it you'd never know the difference.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## sanepilot (Mar 11, 2012)

*posts*

Hi,all..Have you ever considered a hobby lathe. You can turn down just about anything with it. You also can use a hobby desktop drill to turn down a wood spindle or any spindle. They make a great sanding tool ,the lathe or drill press.

Have fun,maybe this will help,sanepilot


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## J.C. (Dec 24, 2016)

well settled on way I'm going to do this , going to mill out 6 sides and 6 end pieces out of .020 styrene, using mill and cutting all at once will assure uniformity. thanks for input


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