# ROOKIE needs help



## Hammerhead53 (Mar 24, 2014)

I'm recently retired from BNSF after 40 yrs (former BN/CBQ) and have decided to try model railroading as a hobby. That being said, I know nothing about model railroading. I've built my first table (pic w/dimensions attached) but have some questions about layout.

1. Is there an app for doing model RR layout?
2. Should I cover the plywood with cork, foam cloth, whatever?
3. What kind of track should I put down?
4. What's the preferred brand for HO scale power and rolling stock?

thanks.


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## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

Welcome to the forum...you'll find all you'll need (and the diverse opinions that go with them) here...:laugh::thumbsup:

Take your time, enjoy the running of them first, start small, shop with your head and not your wallet, look at the work of others and let that be your guide...


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## rzw0wr (Aug 28, 2013)

HammerHead, I assume by an app you mean designing software.

There are several, and some are free.
XtrackCad and SCRAM are free and used by many here.
AnyRail5 is another, however you do have to purchase a license.
All work well just differently.

Some cover their plywood with 1" to 2" of foam.

There are several different manufactures of track.
Peco and Atlas seem to be the most popular.
Peco turnouts appear to be the top choice.

On locomotives, there are many to choose from.
Atlas, Kato, Bauchman appear to be the common choices.

For rolling stock.
About any manufacture you choose.
Most either buy rolling stock with steel wheels or change them to steel wheels.
Usually you get the car you like and rebuild to what you want.
Wheels, couplers and details.

Nice looking bench work.
Welcome to the forum.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

For a layout the size your table indicates do consider starting
out with DCC. (Digital Command Control) Briefly, you have individual control of each
loco, they can run in reverse directions on the same track,
and sit idle while others are running. In addition, DCC simplifies
your wiring. You run a buss wire from the controller and on a
layout like you most likely will have you would connect about
6 to 10 places around the tracks. That's it. No big complex of
switches and isolated sections. 

It is highly recommended that you use Atlas or Peco Flex track. It
comes in 3 foot lengths and it bends to fit the curves in your layout.
You cut it to the length needed at any point with a special 'nipper',
a razor knife or Dremel wheel cutter. It usually is glued to the
foam or cork roadbed.

Peco turnouts are the best on the market. They are so well engineered
that the only time you have a derailment on them is a failure to set
the turnout for your route.

Spend a lot of time going through our various Forums and review the
questions and responses of the past. Every aspect of the hobby is
covered in these forums and you will find very helpful information.
But, if you still have questions, this is the place to come, in the
Beginners, HO, Layout, or DCC forums. Just describe your situation and
ask what to do.

Don


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## thysell (Jun 8, 2013)

Try to keep the curve radius as large as possible. 22" or bigger if you can. I have many 18" radius but I'm not modeling modern trains with really long cars. I'm using RS-1 locomotives and 40' freight cars. As Don said DCC really makes wiring easy and sound makes it more fun. Welcome and have fun.


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## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

Welcome neighbor (I'm up in Wyoming). I don't have any answers for you, just encouragement. I've been into trains for a long time, but am just now building my first layout. I used 2" foam over ¼" 4x8 plywood for mine. I glued down foam roadbed and am using mostly flex track...good stuff to work with. I bought a Digitrax DCC starter kit. I got sound decoders for my 2 locos and got one of them installed and actually did some testing with it today. Success!...imagine that! I'm still laying track, and am taking my time with that to ensure smoothness and quality.

Good luck with yours. Like the others have said, do lots of reading, learn a lot before you start building too much. Others have a lot to teach us about the mistakes they made!


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## Hellgate (Nov 9, 2011)

Is that Mianne Benchwork?


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## FRED On Board (Jan 2, 2014)

Hammerhead53, (et al)...

Welcome to the forum...I am a new member as well and although I've been a model RR enthusiast and railfan for many, many years, the forum is populated by a great membership that not only help solve problems and give advice when asked but also inspire, as well.

I use Homasote to cover my plywood decking and elevated roadbed supports...It takes thinned woodworkers' glue (Elmer's or Titebond yellow) really well when using the manufactured cork roadbed under the flex track as previously mentioned and recommended...Unlike most, I do not glue my track to the cork; rather I use the larger than scale spikes, sold by Atlas and others, driven into and through the cork into the Homasote and I've never had instance of track moving or causing any problems...If a change in track and roadbed is necessary at some point down the line, the roadbed is easily separated from the Homasote by using a simple putty knife with a clean edge and blade...No damage to the cork or the Homasote, so the roadbed can be used again as appropriate to the new track and its positioning...The Homasote, cork and added ballast seems to work well together as a noise abatement over the plywood as trains you run make their characteristic electric motor and geartrain noise.

I've always used flex track (Atlas code 83) and with simple drafting tools and a large homemade compass (a 60 inch steel rule with 3/32nd holes drilled through at each inch and some half-inch points to accept a sharp pencil point) and a handfull of bulletin board push-pins,I can scribe a smooth arc of any radius up to 30 inches anywhere on the Homasote...Joining curves of different radii, creating S-curves or incorporating easements to curves is easliy done by connecting the end points as drawn using a large French curve as a unique template of sorts for each situation, sold in art supply stores...Then it's a simple matter of following the pencil point lines for your track route as guide for the center of the manufactured cork roadbed as it is glued in place.

I've never made use of any software, but do the layout design work mostly by freehand on old fashioned graph paper of the commonly available 1/4-inch grid lines.

Nice work on the plywood decking.

Bruce /FRED On Board
ATSF, BN, SP, UP


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## jesteck (Apr 15, 2014)

Great advice from all of the guys above, especially DonR and FRED On Board. About the only thing I can add to their contributions (besides support and encouragement) is that one of the free design software packages rzw0wr mentioned is actually SCARM. Might make your online search for it a little easier. It can be fun to play with, but in the long run I prefer FRED's graph paper-and-imagination approach, though I used a drilled wooden yardstick for my radius compass when it came time to do the layout on the actual benchwork; a bit less cumbersome to use than a 5' steel rule.


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