# Train Table Legs



## Bkubiak

it's me again, I just have finished my train table it's a 4 x 9. I was gonna use a 4 x 8 but then thought the turns were a little too close to the edge and added another foot for a little extra clearance and safety plus I get another 9 inch run down the main straightway. Today we installed reinforcing under it and were about to install the folding legs when we realized the legs were absolute crap and I returned them, Can use some suggestions about making and installing legs.
Don't think I want them in the absolute corners, I can see myself kicking them etc when moving around the table


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## MtRR75

A lot depends on the nature of the reinforcing under the plywood panel. For example, if you have a network of 1 x 4s attached vertically under your plywood, you can attach legs anywhere that two 1 x 4s meet. You can make very sturdy, but lightweight, legs out of two 1 x 4s attached at right angles to each other.

On my table, the legs are bolted onto the underside with carriage bolts -- easy to remove if necessary. I use screws to make the legs from two 1 x 4s. -- easier to remove if needed and less likely to work loose than nails. I don't bother with glue.

It is also very important that all legs be braced in two directions (at right angles) by diagonal supports from the lower part of the leg up to the reinforcing under your plywood. This will make your table very stable.

One other suggestion. I attached short (about 1 foot long) 2 x 2s to the bottom of my legs, then inserted a screw-in flat caster onto each 2 x 2. This allows me to make minor adjustments to level my layout.

I'm sure that others will have other ideas.


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## CTValleyRR

Make your legs out of 2x2 common lumber. Use carriage bolts and wing nuts to attach them. Brace each leg in both directions with a 45 degree brace of 1x2 lumber at least 1/4 the length of the leg. Attach these with carriage bolts and wing nuts as well so you can break it down if you need to.

Remember the height recommendations from your other thread. Put your layout at a comfortable standing height (chest rather than waist level).


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## Bkubiak

CTValleyRR said:


> Make your legs out of 2x2 common lumber. Use carriage bolts and wing nuts to attach them. Brace each leg in both directions with a 45 degree brace of 1x2 lumber at least 1/4 the length of the leg. Attach these with carriage bolts and wing nuts as well so you can break it down if you need to.
> 
> Remember the height recommendations from your other thread. Put your layout at a comfortable standing height (chest rather than waist level).


 I was browsing the modelrailroader.com website, signed on to it as a member and found this drawing of building a train table. To make the legs for the table I built is simple, don't know why I was fooling around trying to make folding legs anyway, and this will put the legs in from the corners so I don't stumble into them. It says to make them 40 inch long, that seems high but I will do it, I can always cut them down if they are uncomfortable for me. I like the idea of putting that 2 x 2 at the bottom of the legs. That way I can install locking casters on a rubber wheel and can easily roll the table out from the wall to work on it from all sides, plus they are adjustable to level the table,


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## MtRR75

Bkubiak said:


> I was browsing the modelrailroader.com website, signed on to it as a member and found this drawing of building a train table.


This is close to what I was recommending. But there I see two flaws in this design.

(1) There are no diagonal braces extending from the legs across the short dimension of the table. This table will wobble a little from side to side (but not from end to end). I would remove the flat, horizontal brace from each end and replace that with two diagonal braces -- like the ones along the sides.

(2) Using ripped-down plywood may have some advantages over using 1x4 lumber, but I see one problem. When attaching two plywood pieces at right angles (for legs and at the corners) you will be inserting nails or screws into the edge of the plywood. Plywood splits easily and does not hold either nails or screws very well when they are inserted into the edge. If you glue and clamp the joints and use very narrow nails, you might get away with it. But I find that 1x4 lumber and screws are plenty strong enough without gluing.


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## DonR

The train table in the plan drawing looks quite sturdy,
maybe more so than necessary.

All of those cross braces sure will hinder access to the
under side for wiring chores.

I use the L legs of 1X4 lumber screwed together then bolted
on both legs of the L to the under frame. I don't find a
problem with sway or other movement and I have
full access to crawl under there...if I can get myself
so motivated.

Also important, give yourself ample headroom under the
table so you'll be reasonably comfortable when working
under there, and you will be. Mine is 38", but I'd go
with 40 next time.

Don


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## Bkubiak

MtRR75 said:


> This is close to what I was recommending. But there I see two flaws in this design.
> 
> (1) There are no diagonal braces extending from the legs across the short dimension of the table. This table will wobble a little from side to side (but not from end to end). I would remove the flat, horizontal brace from each end and replace that with two diagonal braces -- like the ones along the sides.
> 
> (2) Using ripped-down plywood may have some advantages over using 1x4 lumber, but I see one problem. When attaching two plywood pieces at right angles (for legs and at the corners) you will be inserting nails or screws into the edge of the plywood. Plywood splits easily and does not hold either nails or screws very well when they are inserted into the edge. If you glue and clamp the joints and use very narrow nails, you might get away with it. But I find that 1x4 lumber and screws are plenty strong enough without gluing.


I am using TITEBOND wood Glue and holding the pieces together with clamps and small nails until the glue sets, once that glue dries it turns two pieces of wood into one, and is water proof when dry.
I plan to make an X brace on the sides but the front will be an inverted /\ sorta like that so I can crawl under the table. I am making the legs 40 inch long and they will have locking adjustable castor wheels. I also plan to make a bunch of 3/4 Lightning holes in all the table braces
under the plywood, so I can run wire and also to lighten the table, Guess when it is done, I can take it outside, fire up the compressor and spray paint the whole thing except the top with an exterior grade gloss white paint. It is gonna be in the 3 season room so It should look nice.
What do most people do to keep dirt and dust off the table when not in use, throw a sheet over it or something similar?


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## MtRR75

Sounds like you are on a roll. Just one suggestion. White may not be the best color for the boards around the side of the layout. Their brightness may make the layout appear darker. Didn't you say you were going to cover the table with a grass mat? If so, maybe a dark green color would blend better with your table top. The edges of the layout won't seem so abrupt.


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## CTValleyRR

I don't think our friend Mr. Kubiak has any issues with carpentry skills. That plan will work fine. To comment on Don's advice, the braces are attached with carriage bolts and wing nuts, so you can easily remove them to facilitate under-layout access.

40" will probably be fine, as it will put your layout at about 44". Remember, you want to be standing upright, not bending over as you work on or operate the layout.

Interesting note: I couldn't see that drawing on my tablet, but on a desktop, there it is.


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## Bkubiak

CTValleyRR said:


> I don't think our friend Mr. Kubiak has any issues with carpentry skills. That plan will work fine. To comment on Don's advice, the braces are attached with carriage bolts and wing nuts, so you can easily remove them to facilitate under-layout access.
> 
> 40" will probably be fine, as it will put your layout at about 44". Remember, you want to be standing upright, not bending over as you work on or operate the layout.
> 
> Interesting note: I couldn't see that drawing on my tablet, but on a desktop, there it is.


OK I have all the pieces cut for finishing the table, just now glueing the 2 x 2 parts for the leg bottoms, short on clamps gotta wait at least an hour to an hour and a half to do the last two legs. Tomorrow I will go to HD to get all the nuts and bolts,
swaddyathink so far??? here is a pic


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## CTValleyRR

Looks great so far.

You've made only one mistake: you forgot the Golden Rule of Woodworking: You can never have too many clamps! 

When you're all done you're planning to paint it, IIRC. This will be essential in Florida, or the wood will warp. But I'm sure you know that. Go to home Depot, see who has returned a gallon of paint in a dark color (gray, brown, or green), and get that for a couple of bucks.


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## Bkubiak

CTValleyRR said:


> Looks great so far.
> 
> You've made only one mistake: you forgot the Golden Rule of Woodworking: You can never have too many clamps!
> 
> When you're all done you're planning to paint it, IIRC. This will be essential in Florida, or the wood will warp. But I'm sure you know that. Go to home Depot, see who has returned a gallon of paint in a dark color (gray, brown, or green), and get that for a couple of bucks.


That's a great idea, I never thought of that

I had more clamps, too big for that small job, it's done now, gonna assemble it tomorrow after my trip to HD for nuts and bolts and casters


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## Bkubiak

Bkubiak said:


> That's a great idea, I never thought of that
> 
> I had more clamps, too big for that small job, it's done now, gonna assemble it tomorrow after my trip to HD for nuts and bolts and casters


Went to HD and got all the nuts and bolts and the adjustable castor wheels, went to the paint dept to look for returned pain and of course they did not have anything there but a few 5 gallon cans of some really weird colors, every other time I was in that area they had 30 or 40 one gallon cans stacked up.

Taking a coffee break and thought I would snap a picture and show you all where I am at on the table build. BTW never use wing nuts in a tight place.


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## CTValleyRR

Lookin good!

Sucks about the paint, although you can go back in a couple of days and find tons of stuff there. Our local HD doesn't let you return whacko colors that you custom blend.

Looking at your photo, one other thing comes to mind. It looks like bare concrete, which is a pain (literally) to stand on for long periods. Pick up a pack of 2x2 interlocking foam tiles so you have something soft to stand on. I think HD stocks them in flooring for something like $5 a tile.


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## Bkubiak

CTValleyRR said:


> Lookin good!
> 
> Sucks about the paint, although you can go back in a couple of days and find tons of stuff there. Our local HD doesn't let you return whacko colors that you custom blend.
> 
> Looking at your photo, one other thing comes to mind. It looks like bare concrete, which is a pain (literally) to stand on for long periods. Pick up a pack of 2x2 interlocking foam tiles so you have something soft to stand on. I think HD stocks them in flooring for something like $5 a tile.


CT I sent you a PM did it come thru. I am new at that stuff?

There was a pink and a lime green and something I could not describe except as state road orange. 
That black thing on the floor under the saw horse legs is a sponge backed soft carpet about 6 ft by 3 foot 
Table is done except for 8 more lightning holes under and thru the braces to run wire, tough drilling holes like that at my age with all the breaks and lunch and TV, then I gotta get help to turn it over.


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## CTValleyRR

Nope, no pm, sorry.

I had a carpet remnant like that, then someone introduced me to the foam tiles and spoiled me.


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## Bkubiak

Bkubiak said:


> CT I sent you a PM did it come thru. I am new at that stuff?
> 
> There was a pink and a lime green and something I could not describe except as state road orange.
> That black thing on the floor under the saw horse legs is a sponge backed soft carpet about 6 ft by 3 foot
> Table is done except for 8 more lightning holes under and thru the braces to run wire, tough drilling holes like that at my age with all the breaks and lunch and TV, then I gotta get help to turn it over.


Table now completed I think it is way too high with 40 inch legs. The castor wheel add 2 1/2 inch's

ATTACH]38013[/ATTACH]


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## CTValleyRR

Assuming that's you in the pictures, the height looks perfect to me. When you are working on your layout, everything will be the perfect height without you having to stoop over. It's unnatural because you're not used to furniture that high.

My layout is at 44", plus 2" of foam, so the base is at 46". My first layout was on an old dining room table (30"), and I could only work for about 45 min before my back was killing me. Now it's my feet that are the limiting factor.


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## Bkubiak

CTValleyRR said:


> Assuming that's you in the pictures, the height looks perfect to me. When you are working on your layout, everything will be the perfect height without you having to stoop over. It's unnatural because you're not used to furniture that high.
> 
> My layout is at 44", plus 2" of foam, so the base is at 46". My first layout was on an old dining room table (30"), and I could only work for about 45 min before my back was killing me. Now it's my feet that are the limiting factor.


That is my next door neighbor and fishing buddy, I am much better looking then that.
The table height is/was 42 1/2 inch, we just took the casters off and now it is 40 inch and still feels unnaturally high, we have a couple HD within 5 miles will take a trip around tomorrow to look for paint, gotta take the legs off the table to get it outside to spray it, then We can bring it back and reassemble it and get to work, I guess it will be a good idea to paint the top too

Now that it is raised up the wife can see all the junk I had under the table and I was informed that mess has to go


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## CTValleyRR

Dude, you're killing me! By your own admission, this is your first layout, so what is your basis for comparison. A layout table is unique in the annals of furniture, and it does not compare to any other piece of furniture. It's purpose is to 1) Raise the layout to a comfortable working level. Since you've never worked on one, how do you know where that is? 2) To get your trains up closer to eye level so you can really appreciate them.

This is not the only forum I participate in, and I can honestly say that, for all the dozens of times I have had or read this discussion, there is only one case in which the owner did not eithrr make the layout at a higher level or regret not doing so, and in that one case, the owner was confined to a wheel chair. I'm sure that if we give some other folks a chance to weigh in, they will agree with me.

Do everyone, including yourself, a favor and use the higher level for a couple of months before you decide you can't live with it.

Sorry about the mess that SWMBO spotted, but you probably should have dealt with that before now.


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## MtRR75

CTValleyRR said:


> I'm sure that if we give some other folks a chance to weigh in, they will agree with me.


Not taking sides here, just reporting.

I inherited a 4 x 8 layout (track only) that I am refurbishing (and will eventually add onto). The surface is 41" above the floor. There is 39 1/2 " of head-room underneath. I am 6 ft tall. I find this height comfortable for me, and I can sit under the table for wiring without bending over -- but not by much.


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## Bkubiak

CTValleyRR said:


> Dude, you're killing me! By your own admission, this is your first layout, so what is your basis for comparison. A layout table is unique in the annals of furniture, and it does not compare to any other piece of furniture. It's purpose is to 1) Raise the layout to a comfortable working level. Since you've never worked on one, how do you know where that is? 2) To get your trains up closer to eye level so you can really appreciate them.
> 
> This is not the only forum I participate in, and I can honestly say that, for all the dozens of times I have had or read this discussion, there is only one case in which the owner did not eithrr make the layout at a higher level or regret not doing so, and in that one case, the owner was confined to a wheel chair. I'm sure that if we give some other folks a chance to weigh in, they will agree with me.
> 
> Do everyone, including yourself, a favor and use the higher level for a couple of months before you decide you can't live with it.
> 
> Sorry about the mess that SWMBO spotted, but you probably should have dealt with that before now.


What mess that SWMBO spotted and I don't see any post by anyone with that handle.

Perhaps I should mentions a few things, I tore a rotator cuff and had two operations and I cannot raise my right arm above my shoulder, I was in a car crash a year ago and have back issues from it and at work before I retired I slipped and fell down a flight of stairs and tore up my my right knee, it is difficult for me to get up or down and I want to find a height I can deal with comfortably. I built that table following those instruction and the info suggested here and it was built upside down, and all seemed well, then today when we flipped it over with it's legs and casters on I was surprised at how high it really was. I plan to deal with the 40 inch height now that I took the wheels off and see how it goes, did I mention I am only 5'7" tall.

MY wife said it is now the perfect height for a bar and we should get some bar stools


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## CTValleyRR

SWMBO = She Who Must Be Obeyed. Cross her at your peril!

All these issues sound like reasons not to lower your layout any more to me. ESPECIALLY if you have back issues (which I do as well -- complications from scoliosis). It's not a coincidence that the plans you found on the website of a major model railroading publication resulted in a 40" high table.

BTW, a bar stool is what I sit on to operate my layout (when I sit). It's much less effort to get on and off than a regular chair.

I've tried; we're done with the "how high should I make my table?" discussion.


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## Bkubiak

CTValleyRR said:


> SWMBO = She Who Must Be Obeyed. Cross her at your peril!
> 
> All these issues sound like reasons not to lower your layout any more to me. ESPECIALLY if you have back issues (which I do as well -- complications from scoliosis). It's not a coincidence that the plans you found on thw website of a major model railroading publication resulted in a 40" high table.
> 
> I have a bar stool that I often use to operate my layout.


You sound just like my neighbor and best friend Lloyd who is in that picture of the table, he just loves to argue about anything. We are fishing, he is complaining I am not baiting my hook properly, I am arguing that I am catching twice as many fish as him, he insisted that if I baited the hook properly I could catch even more, then on the way back I am cruising my Boston Whaler around 25 MPH, he says we should go 40 MPH and get there faster because it looks like rain, I say we are very very low on gas and I don't want to run out, I am at the best fuel conservation speed, he argues go faster and we can get there before we run out, when we turned that train table over and flipped it I said let me turn the ceiling fans off, I don't want to hit it and I do, we are waiting for them to stop spinning and he says lets do it's not gonna hit and I argue no it is too close, he insisted, we flip the table and BAM, now I have a dent in a blade on my ceiling fan. and on and on and on. Did you read the PM I sent to you.......??? I followed your advice. by any chance are you a Lawyer.


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## CTValleyRR

I am not a lawyer, and I don't play one on TV. I am actually the manager of resource planning for a major defense contractor. But I can be very Machiavellian.

I like a good discussion -- which involves evaluating and analyzing points made by others. Arguing -- as in, "yes it is, no it isn't", with no facts or analysis involved, not so much. That's why I say I'm done with a discussion, when I don't think there's anything to be gained by continuing, because no one is moving. Interesting info on your neighbor; now I know how to manipulate you into doing what I want.  But really, there's no comparison. I give GOOD advice.

And no, I still haven't seen a PM. Check your "sent" box and see if it's there.


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## Bkubiak

Can not Bleeve Diss

I have 3 home depot's and 1 Lowes all within 5 miles and I visited them all today and not one had more then one or two cans of returned paint and that was interior flat.
Just gonna ask the wife what color she wants and get a can of exterior gloss, thin it a bit and spray it on the table.


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## Big Ed

Bkubiak said:


> MY wife said it is now the perfect height for a bar and we should get some bar stools


I was going to say the same thing, he looks like he is waiting for the bartender to bring him a cold one. 

Table looks nice. 
Nice, neat work. :thumbsup:

Figure out what height your good with, your going to be working on it. I think it would be a lot easier to adjust the height to your liking now, before you have all kinds of train stuff on it.


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## Bkubiak

big ed said:


> I was going to say the same thing, he looks like he is waiting for the bartender to bring him a cold one.
> 
> Table looks nice.
> Nice, neat work. :thumbsup:
> 
> Figure out what height your good with, your going to be working on it. I think it would be a lot easier to adjust the height to your liking now, before you have all kinds of train stuff on it.



Why Thank you very much Ed.
I think the 40 inch height it is at now will be OK, When I take the legs off to take it outside to paint it I will cut 3 inch's off the legs, then when I put the wheels on it be back up to 40 inch.

Here is a question, I ordered 2 rolls of that black foam road bed from hobbyline along with some other stuff. 
I know from what I have read that I have to glue the road bed to the foam inclines and risers and then glue the track to the roadbed. When The track is down on the table can I just nail the track to the table thru the road bed because that part of the layout will be covered in grass mat? The box of track nails I have are 1/2 inch.


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## CTValleyRR

Bkubiak said:


> Here is a question, I ordered 2 rolls of that black foam road bed from hobbyline along with some other stuff.
> I know from what I have read that I have to glue the road bed to the foam inclines and risers and then glue the track to the roadbed. When The track is down on the table can I just nail the track to the table thru the road bed because that part of the layout will be covered in grass mat? The box of track nails I have are 1/2 inch.


Yes you can, although I find adhesive more reliable. Since foam compresses more than cork, you need to be careful that you don't pound them in too far, or you can warp the track, pinching the gauge and ensuring nothing will run on it.


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## Bkubiak

my SWMBO suggested I go to HD and select a nice medium tan color and get a qt to spray on the table.

NOW about the bedding, my thought is to run the mainline all on that foam roadbed but run all the sidetracks directly on the grass mat. Where I am confused is at the turnouts, how to deal with them on the foam read bed and after the turn out how to transition to the grass mat.
Also where the mainline runs over the grass mat, can I glue the foam roadbed to that, The mat I bought has a rubber backing, there must be a trick to secure the mat to the table other then staples at the edges.

BTW I just won an auction on ebay for a lighted HO caboose. 1.75, plus 3 bucks shipping, yea for me I am still looking for a good deal on an 027 lighted caboose for the Lionel around the christmas tree setup I have


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## Bkubiak

I just found out one of my sons has an ebay store, who knew. Anyway his seller name is blakub he has a lot of HO stuff there and a bunch of really cool tools and some misc stuff.
check it out
I asked him if I get the family discount and have not heard back from him yet.


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## Big Ed

Bkubiak said:


> I just found out one of my sons has an ebay store, who knew. Anyway his seller name is blakub he has a lot of HO stuff there and a bunch of really cool tools and some misc stuff.
> check it out
> I asked him if I get the family discount and have not heard back from him yet.


Family discount! 
He ought to give you some for free, I guess if it wasn't for you and SWMBO ( I had to look that up. ) "She Who Must Be Obeyed ":worshippy: he wouldn't even be on the planet.
At least give you some for some kind of present!


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## CTValleyRR

First of all, SWMBO doesn't "suggest", no matter how politely it's phrased. In 23 years of marriage, I've learned that what sounds like "Why don't you just..." is translated as "This discussion is OVER, now get your butt out there and ...."

You didn't have to look very far for the definition, Ed. I defined it in post #23 near the top of page 3.

And for bkubiak, to transition from roadbed to non-roadbed, just shim the track. Once you've put ballast down (you are planning to do that, right?), it won't show.

Otherwise, though, grass mats are beyond my experience. All turf on my layout is hand laid.


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## Bkubiak

CTValleyRR said:


> First of all, SWMBO doesn't "suggest", no matter how politely it's phrased. In 23 years of marriage, I've learned that what sounds like "Why don't you just..." is translated as "This discussion is OVER, now get your butt out there and ...."
> 
> You didn't have to look very far for the definition, Ed. I defined it in post #23 near the top of page 3.
> 
> And for bkubiak, to transition from roadbed to non-roadbed, just shim the track. Once you've put ballast down (you are planning to do that, right?), it won't show.
> 
> Otherwise, though, grass mats are beyond my experience. All turf on my layout is hand laid.


I just finished dis assembling the table and painting it, the next thing on my mind is to get it back on the porch and reassemble it and after that on sunday and monday is to get the track layout marked on the top, all the foam stuff arrives on tuesday along with my 1.75 lighted caboose. You have all seen how my twice around mainline is gonna run, next step is to figure out the best way to put down some turnouts and what not.


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## Big Ed

CTValleyRR said:


> First of all, SWMBO doesn't "suggest", no matter how politely it's phrased. In 23 years of marriage, I've learned that what sounds like "Why don't you just..." is translated as "This discussion is OVER, now get your butt out there and ...."
> 
> You didn't have to look very far for the definition, Ed. I defined it in post #23 near the top of page 3.
> 
> And for bkubiak, to transition from roadbed to non-roadbed, just shim the track. Once you've put ballast down (you are planning to do that, right?), it won't show.
> 
> Otherwise, though, grass mats are beyond my experience. All turf on my layout is hand laid.


A lot here are just plain woos y whipped.
I am the KING of my domain. 
Basement, garage and den & the dog house if needed.


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## CTValleyRR

big ed said:


> A lot here are just plain woos y whipped.
> I am the KING of my domain.
> Basement, garage and den & the dog house if needed.


Right. Let us know when you wake up and quit dreaming.


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## Bkubiak

I have the new table painted on both sides so warpage is not gonna be an issue, it is a solid as a rock too
I mocked up the track with my twice around and was seeking ideas on turnouts, cannot really do much with a figure 8 inside of an oval, I'm thinking two, possibly 3 turnouts as just a place to park some cars and another loco. I have 4 power on/off switches to turn power on or off in the turnout if I park a loco on there and I can insulated the track from the mainline for that purpose. I also have two switch control boxes to operate turnouts I place anywhere immediately out of reach. I'm thinking just because I have the extra track and turnouts it may not look good to jam track everywhere I can. A turnout should lead somewhere, to a building or something. Just rambling on, I had to go with a friend and look at a house he is thinking of buying and go and give my opinion of a boat for another friend he is thinking of buying, I can give opinions on that stuff but setting up a train table is a horse of a diff color to me.


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## DonR

Tis true. If you are going to have a spur track thru
a turnout it should have a purpose.

Here are several possibilities:

Loco service track (where you would park the loco).

Scrap yard. (crane to load metal into gondola)

Small Factory. Has loading dock.

Sand and Gravel yard.

Warehouse. Large loading dock.

Power Plant. Receives coal by hopper car.

Don


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## Bkubiak

DonR said:


> Tis true. If you are going to have a spur track thru
> a turnout it should have a purpose.
> 
> Here are several possibilities:
> 
> Loco service track (where you would park the loco).
> 
> Scrap yard. (crane to load metal into gondola)
> 
> Small Factory. Has loading dock.
> 
> Sand and Gravel yard.
> 
> Warehouse. Large loading dock.
> 
> Power Plant. Receives coal by hopper car.
> 
> Don


Some good ideas, thanks


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## Bkubiak

At the stage that I am at I can see now that I more or less have the track plan that I want and the parts of it at grade or table height I can change at the last minute.
I think the first thing I need to do is to glue all the foam inclines and risers into place.
Then I need to install the grass mat
Then I have to lay out and glue the foam track bedding on the foam and the track on that
followed by the rest of the track and bedding at grade level which will be tacked in place
Once all the track is in place and all the gauge is check again and again and the power to the track is complete I can run the trains for a few days before I start on the small mountain and tunnel in the corner
At this time I don't have a clue what I will do on the other half of then table, maybe have a little brook or stream run out from between the duel inclines to a small pond


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