# need help soldering nickel silver track



## Rookie92653 (Feb 8, 2018)

What is nickel silver track made of, is it a stainless steel with nickel and silver content? or brass high in nickel and silver?

I am having a tough time soldering to it. I have what I believe is Atlas brand code 83 flex track and Atlas connectors. Sure I can glob on solder, but it isn't really bonding well.

So, what prep should I do, what solder should I use?

Should I switch to a different type of connector?


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

Are you using flux on the track joint before attempting to solder them? I use the paste flux for soldering nickle silver track and have no problems getting the solder to "melt" into the joint.

Remember to heat the rails, not the solder.

It is also a good idea to put a "heat sink" on the track on either side of the joint, to keep the rails from melting the ties. I use small, folded-up pieces of paper towel soaked in water as heat sinks.

P.S. I assume that you are using rail joiners to hold the track together, then soldering the rail joiners to both pieces of track at the same time.


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## Rookie92653 (Feb 8, 2018)

I have not tried flux. I am using 'flux core' solder. and yes, holding trak together using joiners then trying to work solder into the joints.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

it has to be clean first as previous poster had mentioned ...
and 'nickel silver' track is mostly brass, some nickel, no silver, solders easily


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## JerryH (Nov 18, 2012)

Resistance soldering is pretty easy to master and is less likely to melt the track ties when done properly, (clean, flux, heat the joint and the solder will flow into joiner). Look at post 554 here: 
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=14852&page=56


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## Deane Johnson (Sep 19, 2016)

JerryH, the unit you purchased looks interesting. I'm thinking of trying it.

My questions concerns the placement of the foot pedal. My layout is 53" above the floor, which leads me to wonder if there is enough cord on it to make it usable. 53" to the floor, plus however far inland the solder joint is, could be a deal killer.

Deane


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## Rookie92653 (Feb 8, 2018)

wow resistance soldering looks like the way to go. but I only have maybe 12 or 14 joints to solder


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## Dennis461 (Jan 5, 2018)

*lets see your setup*

lets see your setup for soldering, maybe we can spot something wrong.

Make sure your soldering iron tip is very clean to start with. If the tip is black and won't hold solder onto itself, this could be a problem. 

Also, your solder needs to be clean. If it's old and has lead in it, it may have a thin layer of oxidation contaminating the process.


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## Rookie92653 (Feb 8, 2018)

I'm borrowing my son's nearly new variable power soldering 'work station, I think it's rated 900 watts, new flux core solder, clean tip, clean track. I just ran out and bought some flux paste and will give it a go again later today


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## JerryH (Nov 18, 2012)

The power cable is 6' long. The electrode cables are 2' and the pedal switch is 6' that attaches to the power cord plug.


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## JerryH (Nov 18, 2012)

If you click on the pictures, you can see what the joint looks like close up.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

There is no need to fill the joints between rail segments with solder -- in fact, doing so will interfere with their ability to expand with higher temps.

All you should be trying to do is solder the rail joiner to the track. That should be a fairly quick job.


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## Deane Johnson (Sep 19, 2016)

JerryH said:


> The power cable is 6' long. The electrode cables are 2' and the pedal switch is 6' that attaches to the power cord.


So, if I read this correctly, resistance soldering wouldn't work well for me with a 53" high layout top. Cables just wouldn't be long enough at 6' each. Shucks.

I guess that even if they were longer, I'd still have an issue since you can't stand on a small ladder and reach several feet into the layout surface and still reach the floor pedal to apply the juice.

Deane


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## JerryH (Nov 18, 2012)

If you used a short extension cord and placed the foot switch where it is convenient, it might be doable. I have used my unit that way when reach was an issue. I have even used my elbow for the switch in a few cases. The benefits outweigh the hassle for me. I don't get ugly blob type joints and they are never "cold" joints with melted plastic ties.


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