# MTH Help, Engine won't run!



## Ryan L (Dec 16, 2016)

Hello all, I'm new here but have been running trains for a few years. I purchased an MTH 30-1115-1 engine off eBay, used. Once I got it home I inspected it and found some paint chipping on the bottom of the coal tender. I cleaned it up a bit and tossed it on my conventional track powered by an MRC Pure Power transformer. I gave it some power and it started to make steam sounds etc, I go to engage it to forward and it doesn't move. Just sits there making sounds. I took the hood off the coal tender and I can see that the battery must have corroded over time. I ordered a new battery and looked around on the net for info on this issue. There seems to be a lot of info that can be rather confusing. I do have DCS powered by a lionel 180 brick, it did not recognize the engine. I contacted the company and they will do a full refund but I got it for a decent price and I'd like to get it running. Any help would be great, thanks!


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

The MTH website has that one made in 1997 and from the manual it looks to be a PS1/QSI. If someone tries to operate a PS1 engine with a dead battery, it will cause problems. I suspect that at best, you can have someone reprogram the loco and at worst, you may have a bad board and may need to have it upgraded to PS2 or PS3. Also, PS1 and DCS don’t really play together. I don’t have any PS1 locos, but I think they will only operate like a conventional engine when using DSC. There may be a way to remove/bypass any bad boards and operate it as a conventional engine, but I couldn’t tell you how to do that.

On the bright side, the 1361 is an excellent cab number. That’s the loco that was displayed for many years at the horse shoe curve before Altoona’s ill-fated attempt to restore it to operation.


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## Jeff T (Dec 27, 2011)

I don't know a lot about MTH, but I do know never to try an engine with an old white battery. Throw it out, buy a new green one. Hopefully you haven't done any damage to the boards.


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## Ryan L (Dec 16, 2016)

Do you or anyone else know if its possible if I can use a regular 9V battery to troubleshoot it while I wait for my new battery? Upgrade to PS-2, is that difficult? Do i need to send it to MTH for that service? I love how heavy this engine and tender with the die cast parts, really would like to see a success story out of this. But I am ready to just send it back and start over.


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## Ryan L (Dec 16, 2016)

Jeff T said:


> I don't know a lot about MTH, but I do know never to try an engine with an old white battery. Throw it out, buy a new green one. Hopefully you haven't done any damage to the boards.


Old battery is already in the garbage and new one on the way. I too hope I didn't do any permanent damage. As soon as it didn't move, I powered down the transformer and took it off the track.


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

A regular 9V battery can be used TEMPORARILY, but I wouldn't try it. It might do more damage. If there is a local shop that can test it, you might want to try that, but then you would have another $35 bucks or so into it.

An upgrade to PS2 or PS3 is going to cost at least $200-$300 and not something that I would try unless you are good with electronics. Not sure if MTH will do the upgrade, but there are a few here that can do them.

Is this the one from TRAINZ that sold for $113? If so, I would send it back. Between the $113 and the cost of an upgrade, you could buy a nice used engine that runs and maybe even a new one.


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## Ryan L (Dec 16, 2016)

Yes, it is that engine that sold for 113 off eBay! So basically there's nothing that can be done other than an upgrade? I heard that I might be able to reprogram it once I have a new battery installed via transformer? I've been looking but there isn't anything off YouTube that might be easier to understand. The written instructions are confusing at best...


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

It *may* just need to be reprogrammed, but you won't know until you take it to a local hobby shop and put a few more bucks into it. I don't have any PS1 engines, but I don't think you can reprogram it on your own. There are folks here that are smarter than me on PS1 and will probably chime in to give you more info on reprogramming.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Send it back, or at least get $50 or so credit from the seller to fix it.


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## Ryan L (Dec 16, 2016)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Send it back, or at least get $50 or so credit from the seller to fix it.


You think 50 bucks would fix it? If so, then what do you think could be the problem? Thank you for the replies guys!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, other than cleaning up the cosmetic issues with the battery leakage, I'd wash the boards, put in a new battery, and see where you are. I have boards for PS/1, and replacing both boards is only $50 if you need them. I can also test the ones you have and see where you stand.

If you're really loving it, then you might consider trying to fix it. Otherwise, I still recommend sending it back.


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## Ryan L (Dec 16, 2016)

I can't say that "I'm in love with it" however it's a nice looking engine. I'm looking at a Lionel Hudson 5412 and seeing if I can get a good ea on it tomorrow. I think that'll be the deciding factor if I decide to keep it or not. Thank you very much for the input!


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

I have that engine, different cab#.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

It is a fine looking locomotive. But it don't work. Not worth much now. If seller will take
it back, I agree with John, Send it back and get a refund and keep looking. We have a guy over on HO. Bought a brand new loco and it don't run. He wants to start taking it apart and see if he can see something. I can tell he is not experienced. Why hesitate. Take it back. You can't see an electronic problem.


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## Todd Lopes (Nov 11, 2015)

PS1 can be reliable runners if properly maintained. They are starting to show some age these days. I agree with the Gunrunner on his points. Let us know how it goes!


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## Ryan L (Dec 16, 2016)

I'm definitely NOT keeping this, no good to me if it doesn't work. I'm also not incredibly knowledgeable about electronics. It's back in the box and will be dropped off at FedEx today. On a lighter note, I took a bunch of pics of my Blues Comet set and will post them up later. I'd rather talk about success rather than defeat! Thanks for all the help guys!


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

Good move sending it back. There are plenty of K4s with the same boiler casting out there (I have a PS2 K4s). I would avoid PS1 locos because they do have that problem if someone tries to run them with a low battery and since you have DCS, look for a PS2 or PS3.


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## 9daytonas (Dec 15, 2015)

Ruuuuunnnn awaaaayyyy...

Haha. JK. I speak from experience. If a BCR does not work, send it to GunrunnerJohn and he will get it right. He's good people. Otherwise, $190 and upgrade it yourself to ERR Cruise Commander and Railsounds if you have soldering skills, good eyes and patience. If not, you could have GRJ upgrade it to PS3, but then you might as well just buy a PS3 unit in the first place.

Old PS1 electronics and battery acid are a tough combo.

Good luck man!!!


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## BigAl56 (Dec 14, 2011)

I just sold a similar engine on ebay. Mine was dead, wouldn't run or boot up but no battery corrosion just dead. I didn't want to try and fix it so I sold it as is not running. It went for a good price even though I clearly noted the engine didn't work and needed repair. I'm waiting in suspense another 7 days for inevitable request for return and that is the deal, I sold it with a 14 day return policy because ebay really dings sellers who do not take returns. The buyer will pay the return shipping however so at worst I'll break even and start over.

Follow up news to above, I heard from the buyer last night who turns out to be an experienced service tech. He determined the defective battery caused the program memory to corrupt. He reloaded the software and the engine is up and running. Everyone's happy and I will look for a replacement.


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## phillyreading (Aug 25, 2015)

To send the engine back or not is your decision. 
However for only a few dollars(maybe $3.00 plus shipping) you can by pass the circuit boards and power the DC can motors with a bridge rectifier rated for 5 or 6 amps and at least 50 volts. Or visit your local Radio Shack store and buy the bridge rectifier.

Lee Fritz


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