# Vintage Gateman Questions



## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

Thanks to all the people on here that have helped me along in learning the world of model training. I just purchased a couple items I need help with. The gateman I believe might be a early 45 all metal model with light from under the base. Not sure how to wire this unit to a 145 auto. The searchlight car beacon vibrates but turns very slowly. Checked the rubber insert and it has teeth but is not glued down. Any help would be greatly appreciated. 


Thanks Mike


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

You need a 153c connector, do you have one?

It is a pressure activated connector.


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

Actually the correct activator is 145c, or you can use an insulated track section. http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/cd/accs%5Cacc145p1.pdf http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=253









I have one and it's quite neat once set up properly.

Carl


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Kwikster said:


> Actually the correct activator is 145c, or you can use an insulated track section. http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/cd/accs\acc145p1.pdf http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=253
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That will work too, it came out with the 145 gateman made in 1950 through 1966. The manual calls for a 145c for the 145.
The 45 gateman which he believes it is came out in 1946 made till 1949. The manual calls for the 153c.
Both of them you can adjust, basically it is the same thing the 145c.

So therefor and hereafter the correct answer would be either.:smokin:


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I like the insulated track sections for controlling stuff in conventional operation , it's pretty cool and you can make the sections out of regular track and a lock on very easily. I have a few pressure switches but the instructions say to have a few track sections before and after the switch not secured to the table. For me I didn't like that idea so I never tried the pressure switches. I have a lot of insulated track controlling lights, semaphores, crossings etc.


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## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

This is the contactor I have. My gateman is the one in the photo with two post on the platform and light under. Not sure if this hooks up the same way as it only has 2 post for wires. Its all metal and looks complete.


Thanks Mike


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## KarenORichmond (Nov 14, 2011)

get an infrared controller and you will be much happier! 153 IR


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The 145 is a SPST contact, the 153 is a SPDT contact, that's the major difference. Both adjust basically the same way.

I have to agree with Karen here, if that fits into the budget, the Lionel 153IR works great with any track system and is dead-nuts reliable.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> The 145 is a SPST contact, the 153 is a SPDT contact, that's the major difference. Both adjust basically the same way.
> 
> I have to agree with Karen here, if that fits into the budget, the Lionel 153IR works great with any track system and is dead-nuts reliable.



What does SPST and SPDT stand for?


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## niehausiiw (May 23, 2012)

SPST- single pole single throw
SPDT- single pole double throw


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

niehausiiw said:


> SPST- single pole single throw
> SPDT- single pole double throw



Well what does have to do with a pressure switch like the 2 we are talking about?

The 145 is just a newer 153?


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## niehausiiw (May 23, 2012)

I don't know anything about the particular switches you are talking about. I just know what the terminology means. Switch configuration whether its in a pressure, limit, wall or relay switches can come in a bunch of configurations. A good examples of a SPST switch is any light switch in your house that controls a light from 1 location only. An example of a SPDT switch is any light in your house that is controlled from 2 different switches (other wise known as a 3-way switch).

If I have hijacked your thread I do apologize.

Bill


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Ed, it has everything to do with the topic. Before you criticize, can you please at least take the time to learn about what you're criticizing?

The 145C contactor is a SPST NO switch. That means that when the switch is actuated, the circuit is completed.

The 153C contactor is a SPDT switch. That means that it has a common connection and when not actuated the NC contact is active, and when it's actuated the NO contact is active.

The 145C is NOT a newer 153C, they have different functionality.

The 145C was supplied with accessories like the gateman that have a simple on-off function. The 153C was supplied with accessories like the block signal that have two active states and required power both when activated and when not activated, i.e. the red and green lights.


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## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

I dont understand how this 145c works. It looks like the track sits on top of the switch and when the loco passes over it makes contact, but that makes that track pc sit way higher then the rest of the track. Maybe I'm missing something but it looks awfull to me. I think I'll go with the insulated track section instead. Not sure how to wire that either. I'm guessing use a lock on in the middle section where theres no insulating pins.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

For relays, you may also find the contacts labeled

Form A: SPST NO (normally open)
Form B: SPST NC (normally closed)
Form C: SPDT


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You are correct, the 145C sits under the track and does raise it up a bit. That is necessary as it has to depress the top arm a bit to close the contacts. 

The insulated track section isolates one of the outside rails, not the middle rail. You wire the power to the accessory, then wire the common to the insulated rail. When the train comes over the track, the wheels connect the two outside rails and complete the circuit and actuate the accessory.


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## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> You are correct, the 145C sits under the track and does raise it up a bit. That is necessary as it has to depress the top arm a bit to close the contacts.
> 
> The insulated track section isolates one of the outside rails, not the middle rail. You wire the power to the accessory, then wire the common to the insulated rail. When the train comes over the track, the wheels connect the two outside rails and complete the circuit and actuate the accessory.


Thanks John. I got it now. Power (red) to the Gateman and the black from the gateman to the outside rail within the insulated pins.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Correct, that should do the trick.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Ed, it has everything to do with the topic. Before you criticize, can you please at least take the time to learn about what you're criticizing



Who the heck is criticizing. YOU go back and read! 
I asked,

What does SPST and SPDT stand for?
niehausiiw was kind enough to answer thank you niehausiiw :thumbsup:

I then said,
Well what does have to do with a pressure switch like the 2 we are talking about?
The 145 is just a newer 153?

How the heck did I criticize by asking a _____ question?!
How the ____ am I suppose to learn if I don't ask?!
( I made it big so you can't miss it.) 
Show me where I criticized anything?!

I am not a genius on EVERYTHING like you are.
If I don't ask I can't learn!
Stop being so condescending all the time! 



AFYI,
The 45n gateman came with the 153c
The 145 gateman used the 145c.
Though I think both can be used for either.


By the way niehausiiw you did not hijack the thread at all, he wanted to know how to wire it. 
The connectors are part of the answer.:smokin:


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Ok, so we got the basics down. Withe the gateman iI have the light on constantly and have the gate man controlled by the insulated track section. You can buy or easily make your own insulated track from a regular track section. To make the track yourself you need to buy track insulation pins that will replace the metal pins in the outside or grounded rail. You must also insulate this rail. To do this it must look like the center rail with insulating paper placed between the rail and the cross ties. Pry open the cross ties and cut material to fit under the rail. Then re clamp the rail back into the track section. I use tar paper as my insulator, some people use matchbook s, etc. The original stuff is called fishpaper I belive, but any thing will do. Next connect a lock on to the track. The gate man will get a feed from the center rail but the circuit will not become complete until the wheels of the train span the insulated and non insulated track. This will operate the accessorie. If you want to make the accessorie stay on longer add another insulated track section. Hope this helps.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Or this


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## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

KarenORichmond said:


> get an infrared controller and you will be much happier! 153 IR


I think you might be right about getting a infared controller as I'm having a hard time getting the insulated track way to work. My gateman stays on all the time when I tried that. Not sure what I'm doing here and it shows. I also tried a few different ways of wiring it and at one point my train was running with the throttle all the way down. I'm lost


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

The wiring is the same as in the diagram I posted. Did you put in the insulating pins?


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Scratch that last post, I'll get the wiring for the insulated track in a few. It works great when hooked up right.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

here it is, sorry about the other pic size, my phone must have reset itself.


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## Srook (Jan 3, 2013)

To insulate an outside rail you also have to isolate it from the metal ties. A piece of folded cardboard works well. Loosen the tabs that hold the outside rail in place. Slip the folded cardboard under the rail and tabs. Bend the tabs back down to hold the rail.

Scott


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## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

sjm9911 said:


> View attachment 29673
> here it is, sorry about the other pic size, my phone must have reset itself.


I dont know. My gateman only has two post on the platform not 3 on the inside of the roof. And it looks like I need two lock on's according to that photo. I already have power going to the track with another lock on. Lost again. I do have 2 insulated track sections that I can use. I'll take a photo of the way I have them hooked up.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

The one lockon in the photo is to power the track. Does your gate man have a light? I don't have any of the real old gate man. Does yours have a number or did I just overlook it? A picture of the underside of your gate man would be nice too, so we can see where the wires go.


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## Srook (Jan 3, 2013)

The earlier 45 Gateman only has 2 posts. The lockon for the Gateman has to connect to the center rail and the unpowered insulated outside rail. The lockon from your transformer should connect to the center rail and the other outside rail. Power is always on to the Gateman but it is ungrounded until the wheels of a train complete the circuit.

Scott


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## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

Ok I got it.


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## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

Click on the photo to see the video.


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## KarenORichmond (Nov 14, 2011)

msak24cardss said:


> I think you might be right about getting a infared controller as I'm having a hard time getting the insulated track way to work. My gateman stays on all the time when I tried that. Not sure what I'm doing here and it shows. I also tried a few different ways of wiring it and at one point my train was running with the throttle all the way down. I'm lost


I really do prefer them, they do cost more, however, but you can hook up more than one thing to them.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Your images are not showing up, you really should simply upload them here if you want to display them here.


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## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Your images are not showing up, you really should simply upload them here if you want to display them here.


Thanks John. I thought they were working. I tried both ways as image in message and attachments. What am I doing wrong?


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## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

msak24cardss said:


> Thanks to all the people on here that have helped me along in learning the world of model training. I just purchased a couple items I need help with. The gateman I believe might be a early 45 all metal model with light from under the base. Not sure how to wire this unit to a 145 auto. The searchlight car beacon vibrates but turns very slowly. Checked the rubber insert and it has teeth but is not glued down. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks Mike


Ok lets see if I can uplaod a photo here.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Don't know what was going on. I recommend just attaching them to a post here, that way they won't disappear when they get changed or deleted on PhotoBucket.

One issue with external photos is when they disappear, frequently it makes the whole thread and discussion useless.

Here's our thread on How To Post Pictures.


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## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Your images are not showing up, you really should simply upload them here if you want to display them here.



John let me know if the photos are working now and also if you can view the video. 

Thanks Mike


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## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

John that last one was uplaoded on the gallery. let me try a few more.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The video is working now, yesterday it showed up, but did nothing when I selected it. I think it was a Photobucket issue. It seems they've been getting slower and pickier lately, they're trying to get the free users to buy access.


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## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> The video is working now, yesterday it showed up, but did nothing when I selected it. I think it was a Photobucket issue. It seems they've been getting slower and pickier lately, they're trying to get the free users to buy access.


I agree about photobucket. Think I'll use youtube from now on. How about the pics? can you see them now?


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## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

I figured out the insulated track way and have it hooked up across the way just to test it and its working. this is all testing for me at this point till I learn what I'm doing. Then after a while I'll start building my real layout. Thanks again to all for the help.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Yep, pictures look fine.


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