# Need assistance removing Shell to Athearn Blue Box GP40



## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

I need assistance in removing the shell of an old Athearn Blue Box Southern Pacific 1984 Olympics 7347.

Ideally, if someone could provide instructions on youtube, that would be great.

The model I have has a shell with a dimple on eachside of the front and rear. I have tried to remove this shell, and am concerned about cracking the shell.

I have provided some pictures, they show up on the web site upside down.


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Interesting, when I click the pictures, and then click on them again they show up in the correct orientation.


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## Andreash (Dec 30, 2018)

You have to spread the shell. I typically get one side of the shell off the dimples, and the next side is easy. You could use a jewellers flat screwdriver near the dimple (between chassis and shell to release the shell from the dimple as well...cheers


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Andreash said:


> You have to spread the shell. I typically get one side of the shell off the dimples, and the next side is easy. You could use a jewellers flat screwdriver near the dimple (between chassis and shell to release the shell from the dimple as well...cheers


Thats not working. It looks like only the area around the dimple is pulling away. The center section above the tank is staying in place. I have used 2 jewelers flat screwdrivers (one at each dimple on one side) with no luck. As I am terrified to crack the shell, I want to see it done.

John


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Picture three spread the shell right there from both sides and let the frame drop out.


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

T-Man said:


> Picture three spread the shell right there from both sides and let the frame drop out.


Can you please explain why it seems like the middle is attached in some manor? Is there anyone that has at least pictures of what this looks like?


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

I am not willing to risk these as the 2 I have are in near perfect condition.


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## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

I've got the same model at home and I don't think the blue trucks are original. 

Looks like someone may have painted the trucks and underframe to match and gotten some paint in there that is holding it together. I'd run a razor blade between the frame and the body all along the inside of the outer edge to see if something is sticking in there. 

Good luck. I second those who say little jewlers screwdrivers or small wood shims are the key. One for each nub. Take it slow, I've cracked a few old BB shells by going to quickly.

I'll take a look at mine later today and see if anything looks different.


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Eilif said:


> I've got the same model at home and I don't think the blue trucks are original.
> 
> Looks like someone may have painted the trucks and underframe to match and gotten some paint in there that is holding it together. I'd run a razor blade between the frame and the body all along the inside of the outer edge to see if something is sticking in there.
> 
> ...


Dude, thats good to know. I would love to see what your model looks like. I just assumed mine was original as the blue looks pretty consistant. If its been modified like you say, then I want to correct that.

Thanks for the help.


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Out of curiosity I looked up the real one, it has a blue frame and trucks. Meaning, I would hope athearn would do it right and send it out like mine. I will still do as you suggest and see what I can do.

Start on the front set of dimples, then try the rear set.


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Eilif said:


> I've got the same model at home and I don't think the blue trucks are original.
> 
> I'll take a look at mine later today and see if anything looks different.


Eilif,
Do you have your model converted to DCC? If so, I have a few questions to run past you.

foremost, I looking for a dcc ready board which sits on the motor and has a plug (such as a 21 pin) for a sound decoder. Do you have any suggestions for options. I have seen some of the genesis motors which have tabs up top for a board to sit and be wired to the train and a plug to accept the decoder. I am assuming a rectangle speaker secured to the inside of the shell is the only really clean option.

Have not been successful at getting the shell off yet.


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Or just installing a tsunami TSU-PNP board. Again, I need a motor which will have the mounting points to accept the board.


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## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

No DCC conversions yet for me I'm afraid. I think I've seen where folks glue a piece of styrene to the top of the motor as a morning place for a board. I think that folks who convert to DCC often switch to a can motor but I don't think it's absolutely necessary.

I checked mine and as you say, the blue is original. Mine unfortunately has one broken tab but this is one of the locos I picked up for a song at a show in December so I won't complain. Especially since it runs pretty well even before I have had a chance to clean it.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

johnfm3 said:


> Can you please explain why it seems like the middle is attached in some manor? Is there anyone that has at least pictures of what this looks like?


This guy uses a screwdriver to get under the tab you show in picture three

I would hold the engine just above a table with my index fingers on those tabs and thumbs on the shell. Gently pull sideways and let the motor drop. Your couplers will not get in the way and do not need removal.

I found this and he explains his way in the beginning. 
Sorry, I do not have one to show you.


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

I was successful at pulling the shell off. It took warming the shell so it was more malleable.

Here are the some pictures showing how clean this model is. 
Why are these pictures upside down??? :-(


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

It may be a camera setting. An auto feature.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Strange.......like you said when you click a second time the pictures are right side up.

Very clean looks like new.


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Big Ed said:


> Strange.......like you said when you click a second time the pictures are right side up.
> 
> Very clean looks like new.


I know, and the pictures show up the correct orientation on my phone, as well as any PC I open it up on.

Thanks for the comment on my train. I got very lucky with it. And why I am very cautious when touching this model. I am assuming this has to have been built close to the 1984 Olympics putting this model almost 30yrs old.

I am going to get DCC and sound installed at some time. For now, I am installing non sound dcc NCE decoder.

I need to sort out how to get lights on this model. It looks like I need to use fiber optic cord.

Thanks again to everyone to invested time to comment.

John


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

I have had issues with upside down pics, but I think it is because I took them using an iPhone....something about Apple products.....maybe try flipping the phone around, as the phone lens might be "upside down".....I don't know.....

Question: how did you "warm the shell"....without damaging/melting it?


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Old_Hobo said:


> I have had issues with upside down pics, but I think it is because I took them using an iPhone....something about Apple products.....maybe try flipping the phone around, as the phone lens might be "upside down".....I don't know.....



Ok, here is a test picture of my Life Like Proto 2k's E9's









Edited: Camera (cell phone) flipped upside down give a picture in the correct orientation. hmm


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Old_Hobo said:


> Question: how did you "warm the shell"....without damaging/melting it?


Dont shoot me for this... I let the model sit below a heater vent on each side. Rotating the loco every min or so while monitoring by trying to pull 1 side of the shell off. I used razor blades towards the front and rear nub to pry with till the shell popped up over both nubs.

I have a gas furnace in the house. Air coming out of the vents is suppose to be around 110 degrees. So a short amount of time 6 inches away from the vent while carefully monitoring did the trick. Only took a few min to get it warm enough to flex and not crack.

John


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

Well, that's not a shootable offence.....

I was thinking maybe a shot of hot air from a hair dryer, being careful not to over it of course.

Glad it worked for you! :thumbsup:


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

I will be installing a non sound decoder for the short term. May install sound in the dummy unit. But for now, get the decoder installed and look at how to light this thing with LEDs. Its looking like I need .040 fiber.

Has anyone here played with it? How flexible is it?


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## prrfan (Dec 19, 2014)

I saw this thread late and when I started reading it I was hoping you didn’t encounter the same weird situation I did a several years ago with an Athearn loco from eBay. 
The shell had been glued to the frame.
Whoever did it did a heck of a job, too. 

Why anyone would do this...well, you’re never gonna get an answer to that. I tried everything including heat, solvent. Xacto knives. Nothing worked. 
Normally I check locos when they arrive, but I didn’t with this one. Mistake. 
I didn’t damage it and sold it on eBay with a note about the glued shell. It sold, no questions asked. 
I’m glad you got yours removed. 
Luckily I’ve gotten used to weird things happening to me lol.


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

prrfan said:


> I saw this thread late and when I started reading it I was hoping you didn’t encounter the same weird situation I did a several years ago with an Athearn loco from eBay.
> The shell had been glued to the frame.
> Whoever did it did a heck of a job, too.
> 
> ...


That is good to know. Thanks ~ John


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Hey everyone, I am back at this thread again. I am looking at what it would take to install a sound decoder setup. And I would like it to look as if its factory installed.

One of the issues I keep facing is poor motor performance on my DCC converted loco's. Specifically on start. Having to turn the throttle to almost 50% to just get my other loco's started. I really think I need to update the motors on those loco's then try tuning them again.

So with my 1984 Olympic loco, I would like see about swapping the motor with one which was used on a DCC model, along with the correct DCC sound decoder to that motor.

So how new a Athern SD40-2 model would I have to find parts for to convert this? I would like to find a motor and a dcc sound decoder which secures on the motor like some of the newer models. I am assuming I would need the following parts...

Motor w/mounts
DCC Sound Decoder
Worm Gears
Drive Shafts
Speaker

John


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

_"I am looking at what it would take to install a sound decoder setup. And I would like it to look as if its factory installed."_

My best advice:
BUY a NEW GP40 with dcc and sound factory installed.
Then it will "look that way".
(this is a serious reply)


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

As much I know your being serious, its not possible. As the 1984 Olympics scheme is not being produced. And the method used to attach the body has changed enough that I can not swap my body on a new chassis.

That leaves me only one option. Find the parts nessesary to convert my existing loco and install as close to factory as possible.

Given how clean my model is, it deserves not to be hacked together.

After I get the DCC and Sound sorted out, I need to work on lighting and the possibility of using fiber.

John


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Has anyone had any experience with the A-Line re powering kit in SD40-2?

A Line Re Powering Kit

It looks like it meets my needs, and a dcc / sound decoder like this will sit on it properly.

SoundTrax Tsunami2

If these parts work, this will be about as close to factory as possible. Mounting the speaker will be what ever it turns out to be.


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## Tom17 (Jan 14, 2016)

The A Line is for a Athearn Genesis model not for a RTR, you need to go to Product Search: Athearn Trains to find the parts that you need, like HO High Performance Motor, DCC Compatible (1) (ATH84080): Athearn Trains and you can uses your own fly wheel off your old model or can buy one with them HO High Perfo Mtr w/Flywhls, DCC Compatible (1) (ATH84086): Athearn Trains, but you will need these HO Drive Shaft, SD40-2 1.39"(6) (ATH48060): Athearn Trains. You can use your old motor mounting pads or you can use the new ones New Motor Mounting Pad, 4 Pads/8 Screws (ATH84028): Athearn Trains and you can use this too HO DCC Adapter Board, Locomotive (1) (ATH90616): Athearn Trains, but will it will limit what kind of decoder you can use or this HO RTR DC-21 Pin Motherboard for LEDs (1) (ATH67240): Athearn Trains
look for the best deals on line


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Tom17 said:


> The A Line is for a Athearn Genesis model not for a RTR...look for the best deals on line


Tom, you rock. That's what I needed to see. Now I have the parts saved on this thread. Thanks.

Even purchasing thru Athern, its only $75. I could not find a sound loco on ebay for that cost.


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## Tom17 (Jan 14, 2016)

You have to look if it is in stock at Athearn, Online hobby stores will have it cheaper, plus the cost of the sound decoder

You do not have to use the adapter board, the adapter will make it only DCC ready


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Tom, one part is missing. What about the worm gear coupler for the truck side of the drive shaft? Do you happen to know what part that is?


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

I'm puzzled by your 50% throttle remark. Do you mean that when your running DC mode, your DCC equipped Locomotive require a 50% throttle to get started? If so then it's probably normal and will disappear when you convert to using a DCC controller. Remotoring will not change this.


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Lemonhawk said:


> Do you mean that when your running DC mode, your DCC equipped Locomotive require a 50% throttle to get started?


No, I mean I have to turn my DCC controller almost to 50% before the loco starts moving. And the slowest movement is not very slow at all. Def not something I would couple the train with. And I have tried all the tuning I could with little satisfaction. And in no way compared to my factory dcc models.

I am really thinking I am having a issue with the stock DC motors. All of which are pre 1990's. Only my factory DCC models work correctly with a starting speed at 4% throttle and really slow smooth movement and acceleration.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

That's an entirely different problem! I'll let DCC tuning experts tackle that. I still don't think motor needs to be changed however.


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## Tom17 (Jan 14, 2016)

johnfm3 said:


> Tom, one part is missing. What about the worm gear coupler for the truck side of the drive shaft? Do you happen to know what part that is?


HO Worm Gear Assembly, High Performance/New (1) (ATH34128): Athearn Trains need 2
If you look through the pages of the link I posted Product Search: Athearn Trains you would have found it
If you bought the motor with no flywheel you can use the flywheels from your old motor and drive shaft


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Tom17 said:


> If you bought the motor with no flywheel you can use the flywheels from your old motor and drive shaft


Interesting thought. How hard is it to move the flywheels? I would think they would be a tight fit requiring heat to remove.


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## Tom17 (Jan 14, 2016)

Just pry them off slowly no heat or you will melt the plastic inside the flywheel


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Tom17 said:


> The A Line is for a Athearn Genesis model not for a RTR....look for the best deals on line


Tom,
You nailed it in the parts list so far. I have not tried fitting the drive lines, but the motor and motherboard combination is solid. And it fits great in the shell.

To anyone looking at this thread, the motherboard sits on-top of the motor via long clip similar to the brass clips on top an bottom that hold the motor together and transmit the electricity to the contacts. With this configuration, there is no need for a M+ (motor) wire. Just hook up the M- to the board. And if you buy a new motor, it comes with a real nice pig tail with a clip making for a solder-less contact to M- and M+.

I need to buy a loco wiring kit to do this right, as soon as it comes in I will wire this thing up and get pictures.

I need to decide how to deal with lighting. Kind of looking going the plasti optic cable if I can find it in the correct size.

I am open to all suggestions for a clean lighting install.

John


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

So after working with Tom in a off-line conversation, we got a good solution. The 1.39 drive shafts didnt work out. They would move all the way in the flywheel, and fall out of the worm coupler.

In the end, I Tom found the 1.477 drive shafts (part number ATH90123), and those fit in nicely and dont fall out when shifted one way or the other.

Unsure the reason. Maybe due to the brass worm and coupler I bought vs the plastic worm and coupler Tom showed. Although they show the same part number.

I am waiting for my NEC loco wiring kit to show up. 8 different colors each 10ft long. Two 30gauge colors, and six 32gauge colors. All of it stranded and ultra flex.

As soon as the wiring kit shows up, I will start assembling the loco's.

I am still looking for advice and suggestions for lighting options.

John


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## Tom17 (Jan 14, 2016)

What 21 pin decoder are you going to use


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

I am thinking the Tsunami2 21PNEM. I am not sure if my model is a EMD or EMD-2 as there is no description I could find on the difference.

More so, the locomotive runs a 645 prime mover. If I recall correctly. I can not find if its a Turbo or non Turbo, but the sound decoder can do both including a dual 645 Turbo.

I have not decided how to handle the speaker installation of this yet as I want to get lighting sorted out and installed first.

John


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## Tom17 (Jan 14, 2016)

Check here EMD 645 - Wikipedia, EMD 16 Cylinder 645E3 prime mover









EMD SD40-2 - Wikipedia







en.wikipedia.org


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Tom17 said:


> Check here EMD 645 - Wikipedia, EMD 16 Cylinder 645E3 prime mover
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for the link. It looks like the decoder I want to go with will work.

So upon closer inspection of my Dummy loco, even though the trucks have the electrical pickups, they have plastic wheels and no gears. So now I need to locate those parts.

Complete Trucks...
Front Truck (1) 44011
Rear Truck (1) 44012

Truck Parts...
16T gears (8) 41020
23T gears (2) 40030
Drive Wheels (6) 40019

I am thinking all part numbers are prefixed with ATH

And the search begins. If anyone has any part locos, let me know.

Thanks,
John


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## Tom17 (Jan 14, 2016)

16T gears (8) 41020 HO Idler Gear, 16-Tooth (6) (ATH41020): Athearn Trains
23T gears (2) 40030 HO Idler Gear, 23-Tooth (4) (ATH40030): Athearn Trains
Drive Wheels (6) HO RTR Locomotive Wheel Assembly, 40" (6) (ATH40028): Athearn Trains use the new ones

Compare the new drive wheels to the old ones you will see the different

Make sure you have front and back trucks, not 2 fronts or 2 back, I have a BB SW/1500 calf with 2 fronts with plastic wheels and no gears that I wanted to add power too but I can't


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Tom17 said:


> 16T gears (8) 41020 HO Idler Gear, 16-Tooth (6) (ATH41020): Athearn Trains
> 23T gears (2) 40030 HO Idler Gear, 23-Tooth (4) (ATH40030): Athearn Trains
> Drive Wheels (6) HO RTR Locomotive Wheel Assembly, 40" (6) (ATH40028): Athearn Trains use the new ones



I couldnt find wheels. I found the other parts on athearns site. Thanks for the part numbers on the wheels. I will jump on ebay and see if I can find something. Everything on Athearn is out till Dec 2020.


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Tom17 said:


> Make sure you have front and back trucks, not 2 fronts or 2 back, I have a BB SW/1500 calf with 2 fronts with plastic wheels and no gears that I wanted to add power too but I can't


How do I know the difference?


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## Tom17 (Jan 14, 2016)

Athearn HO RTR Locomotive Wheel Assembly, 40'' (6) #40028 *Wheel Assembly*
Athearn HO Idler Gear, 16-Tooth (6) #41020 16T gears
Athearn HO Idler Gear, 23-Tooth (4) #40030 23T
Athearn HO Worm Gear Assembly, High Performance/New (1) #34128 if you need worm gear

or you can try Amazon Amazon.com : athearn parts


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

So here we go, 2 loco's ready to receive a 21pin decoder. I have tested them with a DC power source, and they seem to work well. I will know more when I can put them on the track and test with a more finer touch.

I am still in need of sorting out lights and sound location. Sound may be done by replacing the rear vents with some I can see thru and securing the speaker to the shell below the vents.


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

All the parts required to power the dummy loco has been ordered. It looks like its costing $150 to make the complete conversion prior to the DCC controller and speaker.

I have thought of a plan for lighting. Thin Styren sheet above the plastic glass in the cab, and above that a LED pointing at the plastic headlight lens. That should prevent bleed-thru to the cab.

Something similar for the rear lights. Where I am going to pocket the speaker baffle and point the LED towards the rear.

It probably wont be as bright as it should. But the effect should work.

John


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Tom, are the drive shafts suppose to snap into the worm coupler???

I bought these worms, and the ball of my drive shaft just floats in it.

Athearn HO Worm Assembly, High Performance/New (1) ATH34128

They are the same part number you provided, but with a brass worm instead of a plastic. I bought some A-Line universal shafts which I cut down. 

A-Line 12032 - Coupling Kit - Universal Hex Drive HO Scale

And those dont snap in as described in a youtube video. The explanation for install is to cut an 1/8 inch (.125) shorter ensuring the shaft does not bottom out in the flywheel. If the shaft snaps into the coupler, that would make sense for cutting it slightly shorter making room for when the truck turns. The 1.477 drive shafts (part number ATH90123) I bought fit about like that. With just about 1/8 inch movement. But wont snap into the coupler.

Any thoughts?

John


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Follow up...

Tom, it sure seems the Athearn shafts I bought should work and that the problem is in the worm coupler.

Do you have a different part number I should try? My other option is to buy the A-Line coupler and just replace the athearn one on my worm shaft. My intent was to keep these loco's all Athearn on the drive system. The more I go down this rabbit hole, the more I am seeing that may not be possible.

John


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

OMG...
I squeezed the coupler ends together a couple times with a small set of needle nose pliers, and now the drive shaft snaps into the coupler. I have to wander how long that will last.

But now the Athearn 1.447 drive shafts should work as long as the couplers dont give out and release the drive shaft.

I will need to address this later.

John


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Good evening. Well its been a long time coming but I finally got the first of the 3 loco's on the track with DCC and sound. And this turned out about as close to factory looking as possible. It came out cleaner than I expected. I had one mess up with having to cut one of the front pair of LED's wires shorter than the other. And I am having soldering issues.

All in all, I am very happy with the results so far. Next post will be testing this one against other loco's and cars.


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

BTW: Sound is coming from a 9x16 sugar cube speaker. I am blown away how good that sounded. Plenty of volume. And its tucked away in the rear of the loco below the second and third fan location. LEDs are nano LEDs from motown models. Those worked out great. Connected directly to the motherboard with no resisters.

One of my issues which resulted in my cutting the wires short. I need a reliable way to strip those super fine wires for soldering.


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Ok, so I found another issue. I am using McHenry couplers on my layout. I believe 450s which are kind of rust color looking. And it looks like this Olympic Loco front and rear coupler sit lower than my Spirit of 76 Loco and the Executive Cars which the 76 was pulling. I have taken some pictures.

The Olympic loco has chassis mounted couplers which are mounted on the bottom side of the chassis.

As a result of this, I have purchased my first coupler gauge. A Kadee 206 with a 148 whisper coupler which looks close to my McHenry 450's. Hopefully this can tell me whats out of spec.

If my Olympic is riding low, are there any suggestions on how to lift it up? It looks pretty significant of a raise is needed. Just over 1/8th of an inch as the pictures show.


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## Akoustic (May 6, 2019)

As you have noticed the significant difference in heights, not sure if this recommendation will work but you could try using a #147 (underset shank) on the Olympic and an overset shank coupler on the Executive car. This combination will slightly raise the height of the Loco and slightly lower the height of the executive car. Not sure if it will be enough but only other alternative I can think of is a larger wheel set on the Loco.


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

johnfm3 said:


> BTW: Sound is coming from a 9x16 sugar cube speaker. I am blown away how good that sounded. Plenty of volume. And its tucked away in the rear of the loco below the second and third fan location. LEDs are nano LEDs from motown models. Those worked out great. Connected directly to the motherboard with no resisters.
> 
> One of my issues which resulted in my cutting the wires short. I need a reliable way to strip those super fine wires for soldering.


Get yourself a set of these. They work great for those little 30awg wires. Automatic type strippers are likely to break the wire, as you have seen. 

Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing:

Klein Tools 7-1/8 in. Klein-Kurve Wire Stripper and Cutter for 20-30 AWG Solid & 22-32 AWG Stranded Wire








Klein Tools Klein-Kurve Wire Stripper and Cutter 11057 - The Home Depot


Klein's Wire Stripper/Cutter features a coil spring for fast self-opening action. The strong-gripping serrated nose allows for easy bending, shaping and pulling of wire. The Wire Stripper/Cutter has precision-ground



www.homedepot.com







Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Those will be my next purchase. I am sure I am working with smaller than 32awg, probably more like 36awg with the LEDs, but at least those will get the majority of the decoder install done.

Thanks for the suggestion,
John


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

Sometimes on the smaller gauge wire you can just grab the insulation with your fingernails and pull it off.


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Akoustic said:


> ... you could try using a #147 (underset shank) on the Olympic and an overset shank coupler on the Executive car.


That may be something I consider. The other consideration is that I dont want 1 loco to be able to pull that 1 car. Its needs to be able to attach to my fleet of loco's.

Once my height gauge shows up, I will start testing as I have other loco's with similiar issues such as my Proto 2000 E9's seem to have a coupler which hangs low.


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Ok, so I have completed the second loco and have it on the tracks dcc and sound. I really need to find a better way to strip those micro LED wires. I wrecked 2 more LEDs and as such was unable to light up the back lights.

So next on my list is to buy another bunch of LEDs from Motown LED and a 3rd Tsunami2 decoder.

On the topic of wire strippers, has anyone used OK Industries ST-450 wire strippers? They are said to be used for stripping wires from 26AWG to 36AWG.

My other work item I am replacing is my soldering iron. I have had 2 of the cheap 40w weller pencils die on me. And my butane soldering pencil is acting like the gas is bad and not producing the heat needed, then dying after a short time frame even with fuel in it. So I think I will be buying the Weller WE1010NA 70w Digital Soldering Station and finally just make the investment on a good soldering station.

Needless to say, with what I need to do above, I am going to be a month or 2 before I complete the 3rd loco. I will respond to comments and questions of those who are interested, but will have nothing new to add I am guessing for a while.

Will keep everyone posted,
John


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Are your wires really that small? All of the LEDs I've been using are about 30awg. Hard to imagine bothering with much smaller. The one review on that one you linked to isn't very promising. 

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

vette-kid said:


> Are your wires really that small? All of the LEDs I've been using are about 30awg. Hard to imagine bothering with much smaller. The one review on that one you linked to isn't very promising.
> 
> Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk



You bring up some good points, let me show you some pictures. I have compared the LED wires I am working with to 30AWG wire. And I have added a Athearn Motor contact out of a normal blue box.

30AWG compared to the wires on the LED next to motor contact








Here is the pair of wires twisted with the LED at the tip compared to the 30AWG wire and motor connector








Here is a close up of the above twisted wires and LED to 1 30AGW wire








Here is a picture thru a magnifying glass of the LED and twisted wires.









These things can be put anywhere and the wires are so small they just disappear. But you have to be careful with them. They break easy.

The owner is great. Motownmodels Nano LEDs

I bought some with 2mm lenses on them, which dang near fit the light holes perfectly.

John


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Ok, I have 4 Tsunami2 sound decoders on my layout right now (and I still have the 3rd of this build to complete) with engine sound off but Cab Chatter and General Service sounds running as well as anyother random sounds these decoders make. I need to change the random timing on all of them and I really need find more audio files as I currently have 4 loco's saying they are "At the diamond ready to take the signal. OUT"... lol And And the defect detectors are all the same. I def need to learn how to update the audio files some.

Its kind of nice having the background noise in my work area. But I need more variety, you can only have so many approching noth bound trains on track 1. And I plan on adding more loco's with sound.

As much as I started off liking LokSound in the beginning, I am really liking the 21pin Tsunami2's and making them my goto's for loco's.

What makes it more barable is swaping the "default" sound volume settings for the "alt mixer" volume settings. This way when the layout power is turned on, the starting audio volume is low. And if I want to increase the volume I just select Alt Mixer.


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

johnfm3 said:


> You bring up some good points, let me show you some pictures. I have compared the LED wires I am working with to 30AWG wire. And I have added a Athearn Motor contact out of a normal blue box.
> 
> 30AWG compared to the wires on the LED next to motor contact
> View attachment 546520
> ...


Thanks for that Jon, I might end up using a few of those for number boards. It's hard to tell how small they really are. I would still give the Kline strippers a try. I'm pretty sure mine will go smaller than 32 awg as advertised. I seized a little extra on it today and was able to cut the wire. 

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

vette-kid said:


> Thanks for that Jon, I might end up using a few of those for number boards. It's hard to tell how small they really are. I would still give the Kline strippers a try. I'm pretty sure mine will go smaller than 32 awg as advertised. I seized a little extra on it today and was able to cut the wire.
> 
> Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk


Take into consideration that LED is next to a 30AWG wire. They are pretty small. And the ones I bought with the Lens are suppose to work great for ditch light modifications.

Would be interested in hearing what you think if you do end up buying some.

John


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

They are a bit pricey, but I'm not satisfied with the illuminated number boards on my E7. These would allow me to mount them directly behind it. The factory board is fine except that any misalignment causes the light to mostly miss the number boards.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

johnfm3 said:


> Its kind of nice having the background noise in my work area. But I need more variety, you can only have so many approching noth bound trains on track 1. And I plan on adding more loco's with sound.


After not finding any info on adding sound files to Tsunami like you can with LokSound, I called SoundTraxx. And they informed that procedure is not allowed. My only option is to reduce the probability on each Loco so that I hear the same thing less often.

Right now with only 4 loco's on the layout, its not bad. But I plan on having the majority of my fleet in the new diesel repair facility I am building supplied with power. As well as the 6 track staging yard with 10ft runs of track. With currently is 20ish locomotives, this could get interesting.

Ok, I am done on this topic for a while.


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

I am happy to say that I bought a Weller WE1010 digital soldering station, and I am very pleased with its performance. I took a detour and built out my 2 Walthers SP SW1 (switchers) each with a LokSound V5 micro (wired version) as the first job with the WE1010, and it did very well.

I will be buying another Tsunami2 for the 3rd loco and getting that assembled soon.

Meanwhile, I ended up buying the coupler height gauge and found that my 3 Olympic loco's couplers are too low as well as my cars seem to be set too high. So I have some correction to my various passenger cars to make as well.

I will keep everyone updated on the progress.

Thanks,
John


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Ok, I have a huge issue with my loco's.

In a prior post I was recommended to buy replacement wheels for one of my loco's which originally a dummy. The ones recommended were the 40in version. It turns out the other 2 loco's have much larger wheels. I am guessing 42in version. Is there a set bigger?

Of course I am dealing with a coupler height issue. And for some reason I am having a binding issue. I notice that at times the loco works really hard and slows down a bunch and I notice a power spike in my dcc layout power.

Is it better to have smaller wheels and try to correct the couplers, or should I purchase a new set of larger wheels?

My other 2 loco's are having a hard time with the wheels not moving in and out putting them out of guage. Has anyone super glued them before? What about red or blue lock tight?

I am going to be buying wheels I think. I just dont know if its better to set all my loco's lower with the smaller 40in wheels, or get them all moved up to the 42in version.


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

Something to add to my prior post. My layout has mostly 22 and 24 in radius corners. I do have a good U shape 18 inch corner as well as a U shape 15 in or 16 in radius corner.


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

_BUMP_


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