# need help with large length track



## jflattem (Apr 7, 2016)

I am helping out with my wife's company train in their dental office. They have a long 200 ish foot g scale train. The track is reasonable flat: no noticeable inclines, with a lot of corners keeping the track next to the walls in many different shaped rooms. The train is run by a Bridgewerk Magnum SR series controller. The power is separated into two parts connected at opposite halves of the track. Granted the first power line “main” is only about 8 feet to the track “beginning” and the other “second” is at least 30 feet directly to the “middle” of the track. I’m not sure right now on the gauge of the wires. It had enough power, with only the main power, to run the track but it seems to slug down about 15 feet before the second power point, which was disconnected in the middle of the track. I cleaned the track all over a month ago and it helped but never maintained the speed in the middle. This week we connected second power point to the track and it has not helped with the train sluggish speed in the middle of the track. I know you guys can’t pin point the exact problem, but I need some things to check into to help the train. This setup is used in over 15 plus offices and it maintains its speed. Could the track have built up that much extra ‘powdery oxide’ from the train being so far from the power connection before connecting the second power point that it would slow down in the middle? I know at another office the train track and wall is a lot more ‘powdery oxide’ dusty at the secondary power point could there be a wiring issues causing this? Also the bridgewerk Magnum SR has a momentum switch is this useful on a flat track? Thanks to all who read and who help.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

If the track is clean then it could be rail joiners leading to the problem section that are not transferring enough power. I'm assuming the track is sectional, just nip them up gently with some pliers.

Momentum will bring the train to a halt more slowly when you wind off the power, same with starting.

Wish I could afford to go to that dentist.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I know it will be a bit of bother considering the size
you indicate that track might be, but it seems that
the first step that you should take is to use your
Multimeter set the the correct (AC or DC) current
the system uses. Put a moderate voltage on the track.

Then work your way from the main power feed, section
by section, and note the voltage at each point. At some point you might start seeing a lower voltage, or a sudden
drop. That is where you check the track joiners.
You may have to pull them apart for cleaning.

You mention something that is troublesome. You
restored the 2nd track feed and it made no difference.
Check the voltage at the main feed and compare it
to that at the 2nd feed. If the second is noticeably
lower it may be the connecting wire is too
light a gauge.

Don


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## Gramps (Feb 28, 2016)

If your track is Aristocraft or USA it will have tiny screws that go through the rail joiners. Check to be sure all are tightened securely but don't over tighten them.


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## Don F (Dec 5, 2015)

It would be a good idea to solder the track connections, and add power drops about every 6 feet. Also, check the wheels on the engine, they need to be clean too. 
Don


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## jflattem (Apr 7, 2016)

Thanks for all the ideas i will look into them. Thanks :appl:




Don F said:


> It would be a good idea to solder the track connections, and add power drops about every 6 feet. Also, check the wheels on the engine, they need to be clean too.
> Don


Can you explain "add power drops about every 6 feet" the rest i understand. thanks


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## Viperjim1 (Mar 19, 2015)

*Power drops*

Every 6 feet have two feed wires come down and when all are down you will connect a wire a continuos piece of wire all around the layout and connect the drop down wires to those main wires, it's called a bus wire connection that way you have a better chance at no voltage drop around the entire track.


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

This is what he means by adding power drops. Rather than just letting the power run down the rails and through the joiners, you have a large gauge wire that runs parallel under the track (minimizing voltage lost through the joiners) then run a smaller gauge wire up to the track and solder to the outer sides or bottom of the rails of the track.

It's not 100% necessary, but does make power delivery more reliable.


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## jflattem (Apr 7, 2016)

Thanks for the help with the power drops.


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