# inclined piers



## drush (Jan 2, 2015)

New to N scale. Using Atlas N-7 layout. I've purchased 2 sets of Kato piers and 2 sets of the intermediate piers. Using Woodland Scenics foam track bed. Not sure how to attach bed to piers. Not using Fast track. Have not seen any photos of these piers in use. Can they be used just to elevate track within the scenery, eg. within a mountain or do they have to be used alone. Would like to start laying track one of these days but am stymied as to how to approach this part of the project.
Thanks for any help anyone can offer.


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## Bone1977 (Jan 17, 2014)

Those piers wouldn't happen to be for the Kato Unitrack would they? something like this:


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## drush (Jan 2, 2015)

Sure would be. Layout calls for incline/decline so before doing much else I invested in primary (shown in photo) and intermediate sets. Got the Unitrack clips off but still guessing as to how I get the trackbed (foam or cork) attached to the piers and what, if anything I need to put between them. 
Just looked at Atlas Part 2541 and can't see a significant difference between them and Kato piers with the connectors removed.


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## Bone1977 (Jan 17, 2014)

The Atlas 2541 piers are designed to have the track slipped directly into the clips without the use of road bed. The Kato Unitrack piers are designed to be used with their Viaduct style track and bridges, not snap track of flex track.

I believe you may want to look into the Woodland Scenic's riser solution. They are a flexible accordion style foam which you can bend and cut as needed and provides a flat base to work with. Once you have it laid out you would then use some plaster cloth to cover them and provide the final base for your roadbed. Here is an example of what I'm talking about:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PyQKJYyXVTw

Can you give us an idea of what you want your layout to look like and what type of materials you will be using?


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## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

I made my own inclined risers. I had plenty of 2" foam , so I cut an inclined piece long enough to do the incline I wanted, using a hand saw. Then I used a hack saw to cut grooves in the side of the piece so it would wrap around the corner. I used several increasing-height pieces to achieve the height I wanted, and it made it easier to handle a few small pieces rather than one way-too-long piece.


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## drush (Jan 2, 2015)

Will look into these options. Should have asked before I invested.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

The foam ideas (woodland scenics or do it yourself). If you have access to a table saw,it is easy and cheap to make vertical supports from 1x2" or wider pine and sub roadbed from MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard). All are availble at Home depot Lowes Etc. This assumes you have a good idea where you want this grade to be. Don't make it too steep. A vertical rise of 2" for 48" should work.


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## Bone1977 (Jan 17, 2014)

Better question might be what type of elevated track do you want to create?


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## drush (Jan 2, 2015)

*layout*

Since I'm new to this I'm trying to keep it simple to start. Layout N-7 in Atlas' "Intro to N Scale Model Railroading" caught my eye. Outlined it on foam board on a 48" x 48" platform. Will try using the Woodland Scenics 2% inclines 785-1410 and 785-1411 instead of the piers. 
One of the many things puzzling me is the S/2, S/4 and S/8 labels along several pieces of track.


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## Bone1977 (Jan 17, 2014)

Are you talking about the "Twice Around Up and Over" layout?


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## drush (Jan 2, 2015)

That's the one. Any thoughts on this layout for a first attempt?


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## Bone1977 (Jan 17, 2014)

It looks like a nice track plan, has a nice yard so you can store a lot of cars, a passing line and a few spur lines. If you are doing DCC I can easily see running a switcher along the two spurs as well. I think the only change I would make would be taking the yard off the main line, maybe adding two more turn outs to create a bypass. I see why they did it that way though. All in all a nice good layout with nice long main line options.

I would highly suggest doing a layout test with just the track first so you can visualize it and work out any kinks which may come up and allow you to tweak it to make it your own.


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## drush (Jan 2, 2015)

*Twice around*

I've been watching for an email indicating that someone replied but never checked the site until today. Shame on me.
Thanks for your reply.
In the meantime, I've ordered some WS 4% inclines and portals. Plan to elevate the track to 3" where the piers for the bridge would be. Not sure what I'll do over the pair of spurs.
Planning on a rural countryside in the northeastern US (PA, NJ etc) look for the layout but with no particular location in mind at this point
Also, can I trim off one side of the plastic throw on a turnout? Started assembling the yard track pieces today and realized that on LH turnouts 1 and 2 the right side of the throw will end up under the track from the previous piece. Looks like I'll have the same issue at turnout 7. Should I trim off whatever side of the switch I'm not going to be attaching to a relay? Seems like the right thing to do but don't want to ruin the turnouts. Haven't seen this addressed anywhere.


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