# Warm spot on lionel fastrack?



## Train1987 (Jun 8, 2014)

I noticed a buzzing / warm spot on my track. It's on the outer rail and this is the section that is connected to the power How can I fix this ?


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## Lynn D Bennett (Jul 27, 2013)

Sounds like you have a poor connection. Try pulling the track section up, checking it for a good connection, and re-installing it. I don't believe there is anything in the track section that has the need to vibrate and buzz or generate heat??? So don't run the trains until you fix the problem. Heat generated when power goes through an item means resistance and no track connection is suppose to have any resistance.

LDBennett


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## Train1987 (Jun 8, 2014)

I just picked up the lionel 180w power pack and controller. It seems to start once I installed this. Does that sound normal? Also I notice some small sparks from the wheels while running the train. The train also have some spots it almost dies out on


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## Lynn D Bennett (Jul 27, 2013)

How many feeders do you have to the track? I think the right way is a feeder every 12 to 15 feet (someone correct me if that is wrong) with a dedicated pair of lines back to the power source for each feeder. 

Are the sparks occurring through switches or just on certain sections of straight or curved track? I have problem with some of my engines operating through some of my MTH RealTrax switches because of the spacing of the engine pickups and the poor quality of the points arrangement on those switches.

Is the track clean?


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## Train1987 (Jun 8, 2014)

I just have one feed. The track is small right now. About 6x12 and I don't have any switches. The track is clean and it is sparking on some straight and curve sections. It's very annoying The track looks like it is connected well but I did try moving it while the engine was running and the engine lost power. I don't like that the one section is getting very hot


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## Lynn D Bennett (Jul 27, 2013)

Train1987:

You need at least three feeds for that much track. You need to take the track apart and clean all the connections including the pins. The way you describe it, it will never be reliable until you start over and add feeders with dedicated runs (two wires) back to the power source for each feed. Do not daisy chain them. The termination point for them should be close to the power source and can be a terminal board. The wiring should be at least 16 gauge for each wire. Bigger is better.

I have over 100 section of track with seven switches on a 7 x 9 layout with 4 feeders placed in the right places. It is basically two loops with switches connecting the loops. I have no problems like you describe and my track is crummy MTH Realtrax.

The multiple feeds help even if the connections are bad, in some cases.

You probably should get back to basics if you ever want it to be right.

LDBennett


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## Train1987 (Jun 8, 2014)

I'm surprised I need more feeds. I have about 24 pieces of track. Just and oval now with 0-48 curves. Is there a diagram on how to add more feeds and hook it up to this controller I have


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## Lynn D Bennett (Jul 27, 2013)

Place the three clamp on track feeders equidistant around the loop. Run two wires (16 gauge) all they way to the area of the power supply. Terminate each wire on a terminal block. Buss the feeder wires from the outside of the track on the terminal block and run a single short 16 gauge wire to the power source. Buss the feeder wires from the center rail of the track on the terminal block and run a single short 16 gauge wire to the power source. Don't mix up the red and black wires and connection points on the clamp on feeder or at the terminal block. That is enough copper to assure all the track gets good connectivity. This is called "Star" wiring and is the wiring recommends for O gauge trains. When you just jumper from one clamp on track feeder to the next that is called "daisy chain" wiring and should not be used.

When you use sectional track each section of track has a bit of electrical resistance with its connection to the next piece. It all adds up and the connectivity of the system is very much less than ideal. Heat on the track means a poor connection. I don't know what would be causing the arcs and sparks on simple straight and curve section (??).

LDBennett


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## Train1987 (Jun 8, 2014)

Thank you. I am going to take all the track apart and also see if I put the terminal section in a different spot, if that makes it not heat up.


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

I agree with LB here, you need more feeds, I have a tubular layout 40x90 inches and found I needed one extra feed half way across the layout. Trains would slow noticeably untill I did that. General rule is 8-10 feet, 12-15 will work but more is better.

Carl


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Kwikster said:


> I agree with LB here, you need more feeds, I have a tubular layout 40x90 inches and found I needed one extra feed half way across the layout. Trains would slow noticeably untill I did that. General rule is 8-10 feet, 12-15 will work but more is better.
> 
> Carl


But would that make it heat up like he is saying?

I don't or never did have that track. I can't see how lack of a power feed would be causing that? And it is on the section where the power line is hooked up to.:dunno:


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I never used one of the 180w power packs either.
Are you sure it is hooked up correct?

If this started with you adding that I suspect either the hook up or the pack?

Disconnect the power pack and go back to your old hook up and see if it is still there?
Did you try that?


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

big ed said:


> But would that make it heat up like he is saying?
> 
> I don't or never did have that track. I can't see how lack of a power feed would be causing that? And it is on the section where the power line is hooked up to.:dunno:


I don't own fastrack, but it's possible. All the current is being fed thru one spot and passed around a decently sized layout. If he has a few weak/loose connections the current draw will cause heating. That one easy way to find bad spots without a meter, poor connections cause heating. Depending on the current the loco draws it can make it worse. 

Reading that he experiences slow downs virtually confirms both a need for additional drops and connection issues. I saw a marked difference on my layout with adding one drop and my layout is smaller, I'm using a ZW on mine and can nose to tail a train with no appreciable speed loss anywhere around the layout with my 2243 single motor loco. Without the drop it'd slow or stop 1/2 way around. Roughly 4x8 is pushing the limit without adding a drop.

Carl


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The only reason you get heat in a track connection is you have high resistance and current flowing in the segment. Making sure that the connections are secure and having sufficient power drops is the cure.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

What happened Train1987?

Did you find a solution yet?


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## Don Trinko (Oct 23, 2012)

Make sure when you assemble the track it does not fit together to easy. you can tighten the ends of the track with pliers but just a little. 
I buy a lot of used track and I test it for a tight fit on the bench before assembling on my layout.(I test with a single pin held by pliers in each of the 3 rails) Also make sure the pins are not rusted.
The lock-ons can also be bent to make a tight connection.
Sparking can also be caused by the loco wheels and power pickup being dirty or corroded. Don


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Don, we're talking Fastrack here, not tubular track.


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