# Slow done



## alaft61ri (Oct 11, 2019)

On one side of my track train slows done i cleaned every thing here is a pic . soon as it it starts to make the curve. It starts to slow done once it gets past it its fine. Any advice would help. 
Thanks Al


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## alaft61ri (Oct 11, 2019)

Meant down slow down . sorry


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Add a feeder to the part of the track...You can also change a few pieces of track to see if that makes any difference but I would definitely add a feeder.


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## alaft61ri (Oct 11, 2019)

I did that this morning about the same run just the diesel not bad speed on handle of trans former is around 70 to 90 once i had the dummy car and and other cars it slows down alot. Also the outside track does the same. Also notice on the new upper layout certain spots slows and picks up speed. On my transformers speed is always on half or a little more depends cleaned tracks plenty of jumpers cleaned all wheels nice and shinny.

Al


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## AmFlyerFan (Jan 27, 2019)

flyernut said:


> Add a feeder to the part of the track...You can also change a few pieces of track to see if that makes any difference but I would definitely add a feeder.



By a feeder, do you mean another 690 track power clip? I've done this on the furthest area from my transformer, it helps.
Or does adding a feeder mean something else? Thanx.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

AmFlyerFan said:


> By a feeder, do you mean another 690 track power clip? I've done this on the furthest area from my transformer, it helps.
> Or does adding a feeder mean something else? Thanx.


Yep, add another power-clip in that area. I have the same problem but I'm too lazy to fix it,lol..


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

It means what you think it means.

Al, when a train slows down in a section it is telling you that there is a conductive
problem. Probably with one or more track pins. You can clean the top rail all you want it will not fix a pin problem.
When I have a train that slows up in a section I take the track apart. Use your green scotch brite pad on all sides
of the pins. I also bend my pins with a par of pliers. I bend mine to the outside. I also connect the track a couple
of times. The track rusts inside the rails also. Connecting the track a couple times, the pins will scratch the inside
of the rails. On my floor layout I use only one lock-on. I have no slow down areas. I do not like slow down areas either. My floor layout uses 18 sections of track. No slow downs. Do
not bend the pins alot. Just enough you have to work a bit to get the pins inside the rails. This works for me.


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## alaft61ri (Oct 11, 2019)

Ok i will try it and yes i mean 696 track clip. Thanks guys.
Al


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## Mikeh49 (Sep 20, 2015)

I think AmFlyer recommends "conductive grease" on the pins after cleaning. This should be available in the electrical section of big box stores or even hardware stores. It is used with aluminum conductor wires to prevent oxidation of the aluminum. Aluminum oxide is non-conductive.

Here's examples:









iDEAL Noalox Anti-Oxidant Compound 0.5 oz. 30-024 - The Home Depot


Use the ideal noalox anti-oxidant joint compound to improve the conductivity of aluminum electrical connections. Anti-oxidant compound is a perfect safeguard for aluminum to aluminum, aluminum to copper



www.homedepot.com







https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gardner-Bender-1-oz-Ox-Gard-Anti-Oxidant-Compound/4514334


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

The problem sounds like the track pins are not clean and tight. A 690 can be added to the section where the engine slows down but after a year you may have a lot of 690's on the layout. Myself and some others use conductive grease on the track pins after cleaning, and on the 690 track clips where they touch the rail. I also clean the rail edges where the 690 clips on them. Every one of these details makes for a well running and long lasting sectional track layout. 
The final thing necessary is to take off the bottom plate of the turnouts, then clean the brass contacts that transmit track power to the rails past the frog. If the sections of track after a turnout cause slowdown oxidized contacts under the turnout are always the cause. I was assembling a small track setup in December. The first five 720A's I tried had contacts so badly oxidized the rails after the frog were completely dead. They had been cleaned but not greased 6 years earlier. I cleaned them again and this time used some conductive, oxidation preventive grease.
I use a conductive grease that is designed for connecting copper to aluminum because it is readily available where I shop. There are other conductive grease products that will work.


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## AmFlyerFan (Jan 27, 2019)

flyernut said:


> Yep, add another power-clip in that area. I have the same problem but I'm too lazy to fix it,lol..


I'm lazy too. What I did before adding a clip was to swap out a couple of dirtier sections of track with really clean track. I still had a bit of a slow down, the clip fixed that. It was easy for me, my layout is just on the carpeted floor; no roadbed or fastened down.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Good idea Mike. Can't hurt. Conductive grease.

The other night I was coming home from the casino. No heat. It has been cold here. Single digits at night. Too cold to not have heat in the car. I got lucky. Since we are giving fix hints
here is one for no heat. Check the fluid in the radiator. I had plenty of fluid to cool the engine but not enough to get hot water to the heater core. Added a half gallon of fluid and I have plenty of heat. I was hoping it was not a clogged heater core. Car is a 2007 so it was possible. It can also be a stuck door in the vent system.


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## alaft61ri (Oct 11, 2019)

Thanks guys took off that section and pins are dirty loose and i put them in without bending to give a good tight fit. I will pick up that grease tomorrow its starting to snow here in R.I. so i will have to go threw each spot that slows down.

Al


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

mopac said:


> Good idea Mike. Can't hurt. Conductive grease.
> 
> The other night I was coming home from the casino. No heat. It has been cold here. Single digits at night. Too cold to not have heat in the car. I got lucky. Since we are giving fix hints
> here is one for no heat. Check the fluid in the radiator. I had plenty of fluid to cool the engine but not enough to get hot water to the heater core. Added a half gallon of fluid and I have plenty of heat. I was hoping it was not a clogged heater core. Car is a 2007 so it was possible. It can also be a stuck door in the vent system.


On my 2000 Silverado and 2002 Impala, I have the heater cores flushed out every fall.Never fail to give me heat.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Good maintenance flyernut. I am not that good at scheduled maintenance. Here is a good and easy way to tell if you have a clogged heater core. Most cars and trucks have two heater hoses running through the firewall and into the car. They are only a few inches apart and should be the only heater hoses going through the firewall. One hose goes IN to heater core and one OUT of heater core. Get car up to operating temperature and open hood. Spot the two hoses and grab them with your hands. If they are both hot, you do not have a clogged heater core. If only one is hot you do have a clogged heater core. I am sure many shops and garages have replaced heater core when it was not necessary to repair a no heat situation. It pays well. Keep the radiator full of fluid, I didn't.


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