# I used to have some hair!!!!!!!!



## Stillakid

But ever since I joined this site and got around Reckers, It's all gone!:laugh:

Picked this up on vacation. Wife is convinced I need to go in for an in depth mental evaluation. Perhaps she's right!:laugh::laugh::laugh:

She then added that perhaps a trip to the, "Hardware Store" might help to calm my nerves. RIGHT:thumbsdown:


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## tjcruiser

What is that "thing" ???

Train motor meets Frankenstein meets The Borg from Star Trek ???

And as far as the wife is concerned, I'll offer four words of advice:

"Cubic Zirconia, Don't Tell" :thumbsup:

TJ


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## Reckers

I don't see what the problem is, Jim. The e-unit looks fine to me!


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## T-Man

The Great Tarnak sees epoxy in your future.


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## imatt88

Holy crap Jim, looks like it blew up!:laugh:


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## tjcruiser

Jim,

Whatever you do, do NOT try to board a plane with that thing in your carry-on pack. The TSA guys would be all over you questioning why you were trying to carry a bomb onto the plane!

TJ


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## Stillakid

*$12 worth of aggravation!*

That, "Bundle of Joy", is a American Flyer 300.

T-man, will epoxy fix that bakelite, brush plate? All the parts are there, but the brush cylinder is on the broken side is very loose. Lock-tite?

The armature looked like it had been painted with flat black. Took me an hour to clean it up without destroying the wires.

Reckers, the "reverse-unit", while all intact, is full of grease and there was some rust present. I have an extra one, but will try to salvage this one first. It's already in pieces and has been cleaned, sanded and the 2 finger units also have been cleaned and adjusted.

The Engine shell is perfect, but will need to be stripped and painted. wish I could say the same about the Tender. It's a mess The body has rust, as do the trucks. I'll have to remove them to paint and install all new truck rivets, insulating bushings and washers. Wiring harness from tender to chassis is "toast!"

The drive wheels were all painted black I've cleaned up all the paint and the insulators look okay. No "choo-choo or Smoke", but still worth restoring. Who knows, maybe one of our new "S" buddies might be in need

TJ, never fly!!!!!!! I drive, or don't go:laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## T-Man

Stillakid said:


> That, "Bundle of Joy", is a American Flyer 300.
> 
> T-man, will epoxy fix that bakelite, brush plate? All the parts are there, but the brush cylinder is on the broken side is very loose. Lock-tite?
> 
> :


I super glue the piece together. Maybe etch the crack and epoxy over. You need to check clearances, on where you can add some. It does have to fit back inside.


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## Stillakid

*The cracked area*

Bob, the 2 pieces come together perfectly. I've added pics and circled the area that is broken. There was quite a bit of grease on the piece. Would cleaning(soaking?) the pieces in Denatured Alcohol be the best way to prep them for gluing? What about using lock-tite on the 2 brush cylinders? Will it adhere to the metal and the bakelite?


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## T-Man

I wouldn't soak it. Just wipe it clean. You can try locktite. Super glue would work too. The outside crack, after gluing, I would etch/groove with a cutting wheel. That give more of a contact surface for the epoxy. Make sure the tubes are high enough for clearance.


You may want to look into adding a wire brace. It could be epoxied on or drilled into the bakelite. or just encircle it. Since the sides are open you may have to do this.


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## Stillakid

*Thanks!*

Bob, thanks for the help!
Will use, "Instant Krazy Glue Gel" first. There is no clearence for drilling, but I think if need be, the glued wiring will work. I'll let you know:thumbsup:


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## tjcruiser

Jim,

I agree that the glued joint will need all of the extra reinforcement that it can get ... as limited by available clearances. Do you have room to add any epoxy fillet to the inside corner of the "U" assembly, in the proximity of the glued crack? As strong an epoxy as possible ... NOT the 5-minute-set stuff.

Do you ever do any fiberglass work? Maybe epoxy on a thin fiberglass mesh cloth to the outside corner, overlapping adjacent sides in way of the crack, too.

If the exposed hole in the last (bottom) photo above is for an assembly mount screw, you need to be careful that inserting and tightening up this screw that last fraction doesn't stress and propogate your glued joint to the point where it cracks open again. That's a dicey location for a screw, given the crack situation. Maybe put the screw in rather loosely, with Locktite there to give it some grab.

TJ


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## Reckers

Man, I am impressed with the quality of the suggestions you're getting, Jim. Seriously---this is backyard engineering at it's finest. I love how imaginative all the solutions are. Jim, I don't have anything better to offer, but let me know if I can help in any way.


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## Stillakid

*Super Glue.....*

Worked very well! Using quite a bit of pressure, I couldn't separate the joint. I'm going to try using a thin steel washer, top and bottom, to transfer as much pressure as possible to the body as opposed to the channel itself.

Thanks to all for your help, it's appreciated:thumbsup:


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## machinejack

Nice Find:
Old stuff now that's what makes me tick. I drive a 1949 Willys Stationwagon and play with 1930's trains. I enjoy taking a pile of so called junk and making is purr again. After all they aren't making this stuff any more. Try to save every thing that I come across mostly Marx. While every thing may not be put back as factory it will save another treasure from the iron monger. 
I am a train runner.
Jack


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## tjcruiser

Well said / done, Jack!

And Jim ... nice job on the repair ... AS USUAL!

TJ


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## Stillakid

*That's what I'm talking about!*

Jack, same here. At first, I thought it had to be, "perfect". Found out that it's alot more fun just restoring back to working order, paint(if needed), the way I like it. And just have fun!

Considering what I usually pay for this stuff, trying to restore it to, "collectable quality", I could have just bought it that way:laugh::laugh:


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## machinejack

I can make just about any part I might need. You might tell from my moniker that I am a machinist. I built a small 3 axis CNC mill from scratch. I make couplers, and fiber pick up plates that have gotten lost or busted. 
I make tab and slot couplers to replace the ones missing. I have even designed one for the Marx 6" tin that had the slack built in so the wind ups could start a whole gang of cars. I moved the shoulder back to just in front of the keeper slot on the car. works great no slack, and won't change the car up. I just keep the old couplers in a box if I want to change back.
Jack


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## Stillakid

*Some Progress.....*

Added 2 washers to the brush plate. Screwed it in. Powered it up with jumpers and she ran:thumbsup: Thanks for the help! Let it run for about 5 minutes at full throttle!!

The engine and tender got a "Bath in The Bag" and although they still look rough, I've seen (and had), worse:laugh:

There's a problem with the reverse unit. Even though I cleaned up all the visible rust, the lever(circled in red), that drives the drum is jointed and there's no way to clean it(or reach it!). I've been using Liquid Wrench to try and work it free. It's better, but still hangs up. I'll give it another couple of days of being worked and wetted to see if it gets better. Really don't want to buy a replacement reverse unit(have 2, but not for this model)

I will also have to replace the 2 sets reverse unit fingers. There are tiny holes in the bends, so small, I almost didn't see them(have those). Will also be replacing the truck studs and washers, toast(have them too!)

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## Stillakid

*Of course, I forgot 2 pics!*

The drive unit, cleaned up some and after it was run.
The washers I used, were very thin steel.

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## Reckers

Another jewel for you stable, Jim!


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## Stillakid

Len, if this turns out to be a, "Jewel", I'll be very thankful
I'm afraid to post pics of all the stuff I'm either working on, or will be over the next few weeks. It's hard to have your sanity questioned at home, AND, on your hobby site!
ROFLMAO!!!!!


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## tjcruiser

Hi Jim,

Re: your "boiler in a bag" paint strip job...

I've been working on my Lionel 259E ... stripped with Easy Off to bare metal, but the "bare metal" had lots of "spider web" veins of surface rust all over. Some place not so bad ... others lots of criss-cross crazy patterns. Easy Off didn't remove it. So, I popped a stainless-steel little wire brush into the Dremel and went at it ... and at it ... and at it. Tedious, working in small little sections. Nearly chewed through 3 brushes. But, it's worked quite nicely ... no significant evidence or exposure of rust at this point.

I'm sure this is "old hat" to you, but in regards to your stripped loco parts in the photos above, I'd suggest giving them the old Dremel brush treatment ... stainless brush for the "tin" tender, perhaps more gentle mild steel brush for the cast loco.

Maybe a WD40 bath for the stuck e-unit toggle? Though I suspect that's no better than the Liquid Wrench.

Excellent work on your armature housing repair ... glad to hear that it's back up and running!

Cheers,

TJ


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## T-Man

Bravo!:appl:

I like the white walls! AF,yes but well done!


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## Stillakid

Thanks Bob

TJ, the pics where taken after the bath. Nothing else had been done.


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## Rocky Mountian

I wonder if a small glass bead box would work on some of that striping paint. I use mine on motorcycle heads and cylinders to clean them. I think you can get them at a Harbor freight fairly cheep.


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## T-Man

A simple rock tumbler would work too. Don't know about glass beads. DO you mean black beauty grit?

The chimneys are progressing the paid consultants are evaluating now. I got a deal on a husband an wife team.


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## tjcruiser

Bob's Bob! :thumbsup:


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## Stillakid

Were they on the job when you were building your layout?
They look like the kind of people that big ed would send your way


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## Reckers

Actually....the one on the left kinda looks like Big Ed.


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## T-Man

How can you beat a builder who's equipment talks and does all the work. I wonder if they will ever get unionized? Poor Bob is getting a lecture from the real boss from the pose.

My tools are quiet. I found this picture.


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## Rocky Mountian

T-Man said:


> A simple rock tumbler would work too. Don't know about glass beads. DO you mean black beauty grit?
> 
> Its glass beads put a nice clean finish, just wash, dry and paint.
> Might work on plactic to but have never tryed it.


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## Stillakid

*Some Progress........*

The 300 shell, tender, tender base, and trucks have been painted. Three coats of Rust-Oleum automobile primer(Dark Grey) on all but the trucks.

The trucks were in bad shape(rust), so I used the dremel, a file, and some hand sanding to clean them up as best I could, and then used, Rust-Oleum, "Rust Reformer" in Satin Black to paint them with three coats. Turned out okayhwell:

The Engine & Tender paint is a "Sandable Primer", and when dry, leaves a finish that is dull and powdery looking. I used a very soft brush to go over the finish, and liked the results

The "reverse unit" is working as it should. "Liquid Wrench" really worked(that and about 2 hours of working the lever!) Will be soldering all the wiring today, and hopefully, she'll be running by this evening. I'm short 1 truck rivet, so will have to use a brass screw and double nut for the rear coupler. I hate soldering to that, but it will have to do:laugh::laugh:

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## Reckers

Beautiful job, Jim!!!


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## Stillakid

I'm thinking of drilling out the smoke stack(no smoke or choo-choo ) so that light will come up from it when running in a darkened room. Any thoughts


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## Reckers

I think it's an interesting idea, Jim. My only additional comment would be to consider some red film on the inside of the shell to give it more of a fiery appearance. It would also tone down the intensity of the white light so it doesn't match or outshine the headlamp.


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## Stillakid

Great idea, Len! My Marx has that!


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## Reckers

How well does it work?


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## Stillakid

In a dimly lit room, it looks pretty neat


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## tjcruiser

Jim -- Great work ... everything looks excellent! Is that an original tender weight that I'm seeing in the pic above? Lead or metal chunks imbedded in some sort of resin? Do tell.

Reck -- nice idea on the smokestack film ... My Lionel 259E work-in-progress has a red film like that.

Cheers,

TJ


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## Reckers

TJ, that is your standard style of weight for AF tenders. Later tenders had the E-unit on board instead of mounted in the engine: they have the same composition, but are shaped like a right-angled "U". Colors seem to be random----I have yellow and green to go with his red one.


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## Stillakid

Old, screws, nuts and bolts in resin, it is!
Thank You!


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## tjcruiser

Thanks guys!

TJ


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## Stillakid

*enough to make me crazy(ier!)*

This morning at around 4AM, couldn't sleep so decided to put the 300 back together and pack it up to move inside. She was runnning great at last check and so I went to give it a few laps on the test track one last time.

NOTHING! NADA! ZIP! ZILCH!

For the next 2 hours, I traced wires, checked connection, and used a wide variety of Greek & American curses. No help

The only part that I replaced was a lamp socket. It tested perfect before and after installation. Shouldn't be a problem there. Right? 

Finally, as a last move before I gave it wings, I pulled the brand new bulb and checked it. She's Alive!!!!!

Took the bulb and put leads to it. Lit right up. Put the bulb in again, and fired it up. Dead as a doornail!

Took out the bulb again. Back to life. This time, I put the bulb under a magnifying glass. The small soldered tip was broken. Evidently, when the bulb was screwed in, it would cause a short. The stupid bulb still works when not screwed in.

Bottom line, check bulbs first when you have a similar problem:laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## T-Man

I would of been locked up for sure.


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## tjcruiser

Jim,

Good story with an important moral / lesson. Sorry to hear your frustration, but thanks for the heads-up tip to us far less patient tinkerers!

TJ


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## Stillakid

*AF 300, Done!*

The "Basket Case" is finished!
No more "Loss of Hair" is expected and after 10 minutes of lapping the test track, wrapped her up and took her into the house. She now joins all the other finished projects with no layout to play with

Next up is finishing the Station House. Pics soon!


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## tjcruiser

Jim,

WONDERFUL!!!! ANOTHER FABULOUS RESURRECTION ON YOUR PART!

You say "done" ... but ya' gotta give the old girl some "300" number tags, right? I really liked how ease of use of the Woodland Scenics dry-transfer rub on decals. Crisp results, and no clear-film margin like you would get with wet decals. I have a sheet of silver numbers in various font sizes from my Lionel 249 project. What size (height) would you need here? I could mail a pair of "300" your way, if you were interested.

TJ


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## Stillakid

No Thanks. Have them if I decide I want them numbered.


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## Reckers

Jim, that series of pictures is like a train museum's photo sequence of restoring a real one. Great job!


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## T-Man

Congrats! Well Done! :thumbsup:

It's good to see other successes.


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## Stillakid

Thanks, Len!
Thanks, Bob!

I appreciate it


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