# Traction tires



## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Who wouldn't want traction tires on all their AF steamers.
I have been researching the topic. I have come up with 3 ways
to get traction tires on all 10 of my steamers.

1. Buy pul-mor wheels. Involves pulling and reinstalling wheels.
Would take around 30 pul-mor wheels and I think that could get
expensive. That would just be putting one new wheel on each side of an atlantic.

2. I found Marty's Trains ( that's where I bought my overpriced
northern, it is nice) sells a rubber traction tire designed for AF wheels that did not come with a factory traction tire. They are
around $10.00 shipped for a pair. Not terrible. No idea how long they would last.

3. Bullfrog Snot. This is a liquid you apply to rotating wheels.
It dries to a rubbery traction tire. Takes some practice. Key is
to apply light coats. May take 3 or 4 coats. Sets up in 10 minutes but takes 24 hours to fully cure. Reviews are pretty good on the product. Around $24.00 for a bottle. 1 oz. Enough
to maybe do 100 wheels. Supposedly lasts as long as a traction tire. . People on the HO and the O forum have used it and most
seem happy. I think O gauge locos go through traction tires rather quickly.

Would love to hear from you if you have used any of the 3 methods to get traction tires. I am leaning to getting a jar of
Bullfrog Snot. That's the cheapest method. Takes more time
than installing a rubber tire. 24 hours between coats. Some use a hair dryer to speed process up.

I do want traction tires on all my AF steamers. Anymore than 2 or 3 cars my 282 starts slipping. That's dumb.


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## Chuck7612 (Jul 2, 2017)

Or get the Pullmor bands from Port Lines for $2.50 ea. and glue them on with CA. Takes a few minutes rather than 3 days for Bullfrog Snot, easier to do, lasts longer.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Chuck, will the bands work on non pul-mor wheels?

It sounds like #2 above. Except a little cheaper. Marty's is 7 dollars for 2 and 3 shipping.
Port Lines has a 8 something min. shipping now.


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## Chuck7612 (Jul 2, 2017)

It could be dependent on the model of loco I guess. I am not am expert on the wheel differences. I have used these bands on a Pacific, Atlantic, and a Northern. One thing is for sure, Doug Peck of Port Lines is an expert in AF parts and repair issues. He is the "go to" for many, many AF users. If he doesn't have the part or the answer, it probably doesn't exist.

Also, on the minimum shipping cost, there may be flexibility when you call him. If not, I would look at stocking up on parts or tools that you'll regularly needs like bulbs, smoke wicks, front pilot springs, red plastic or brass smokestack tubes, brushes, brush springs, smoke fluid, wheel puller, quartering tool, etc.


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## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

I bought Bullfrog Snot as an experiment on a 477 A from 53 that could hardly pull it's B unit let alone a consist. The 477 had worn axle holes in the chassis. It performed as advertised increasing the pulling power quite impressively. Unfortunately, the added strain on the two motors quickly got them smoking! But I think it's worth a try as an option. As a side note Mopac, looking at my Greenberg Vol. 1 they do list a 336 variation without Pull-mor wheels so maybe yours is an early 53.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Thanks for info cramden. I did see a K335 without pul-mor tires also. I have a white inside smokestack so it is a '53 or later.


Thanks for info Chuck. Always better to stock up on stuff when ordering. Shipping is not getting any cheaper.


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## Matt_GNo27 (Feb 7, 2016)

Recently my dad applied Bullfrog Snot, which he got from Doug @ Port Lines Hobby, to one of his 356 Silver Bullet Pacifics. The BS lived up to its reputation, and has made a huge difference. 

That said, if the Pullmor bands that Doug sells will fit onto wheels that didn't originally have them, then I'd likely go that route, since it would seem to be less laborious.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

The bands are designed for wheels that did not come with any band. Yes, it would be less labor to do the bands. The bands are not as thick as the bands that go in the grooved wheels. So I don't know how long they last. The snot at $24 would do a lot more wheels than $24 worth of bands. I don't know how long a jar of snot would last. It might dry out after a month after being opened. I do know it can be thinned with water. Some thin it with water to keep it from getting lumpy on a wheel.

I have watched a few videos on installing the bullfrog snot. Loco upside down in a cradle and running. Some use a toothpick to apply. I think best is a narrow artist brush. Thin coats.

You keep the loco running till snot starts to turn clear. Part of the drying process. Hair dryer can be used to dry quicker.


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## Waddy (Dec 18, 2014)

The problem I had with factory traction tires on my MTH locomotives is that I like to pull long consists (20+ cars) at higher speeds ( around 50 scale MPH) and I like smoke. Couple that with some 31" curves (I don't run them at 50 mph) and my locos spit off traction tires like a monkey peeling a banana. So I experimented.

Didn't like Bullfrog snot; doesn't last all that long and sets up in the jar after a while.

I used JB Weld on an old Lionel F3 I gave to my grandson (he's hard on traction tires too; he drives that F3 like he stole it). The JB Weld works great, good traction, and still on there two years later. But it was a real pain to put on ( too sticky, hard to clean off where you don't want it) and once on only a dremel with a wire brush to get back off.(note; wear a face mask when you do it; the chips!!).

Tried several other ideas, and finally found the one I now use.

Permitex grey high torque gasket maker. I just barely fill the tire groove with a stirring stick I cut down just right for the job. Just enough, once again, to fill the groove. Now, there are two types of silicone; air dry and catalyst. This is air dry. So let it sit for 48 hours before using. If you have to speed things up because you're the impatient type, put some gentle heat on it. Note; not a heat gun on high!!!

I haven't bought a traction tire since I started using the grey high torque. Traction seems the same as with the stock tires. Maybe try it on one locomotive before you do the whole fleet. 

BTW; make sure the groove is CLEAN before you apply the silicone.

BTW2; If you like to run your stuff at high speed; oil, oil,oil... especially side rod gear on steamers. And the pickup rollers with that light electrical conductive oil.

Nothing beats the sound of several consists hi-balling around the layout.  Maybe that's where my grandson gets his passion for high speed rail? ....


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Thanks for another idea. I can see where a silicone could work. Long trains will eat
traction tires. Some of my locomotives need traction tires but they did not come with
traction tires and do not have a groove. I would think the permetex would only work with a groove.


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## Waddy (Dec 18, 2014)

mopac said:


> Thanks for another idea. I can see where a silicone could work. Long trains will eat
> traction tires. Some of my locomotives need traction tires but they did not come with
> traction tires and do not have a groove. I would think the permetex would only work with a groove.


Yes, you're probably right. And I'm probably not the best judge of traction, as I abuse those factory traction wheels with long consists, high speed and smoke. And I usually double head everything. That's why I tell people to try it for themselves on an old locomotive and see how it works for them.


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## AmFlyerFan (Jan 27, 2019)

*an old thread.*

I was looking for info on replacement issues for a Pul-Mor tire on my Atlantic 307.
This thread has some good info. Parts have been ordered.
My question is; Which year did AF start using Pul-Mors on their steamers?

I see some have the PM's on the back (my 21085's), some on the front (my 307), my 302ac has none. I suppose through trial & error AF figured out the best placement for PM's.
All my steamers are running, smoking, & looking good. No smoke in the 307 (yet).


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Pull-Mor was introduced in 1953 on the knuckle coupler engines. There were still many link coupler sets made in 1953 that did not get them.


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## AmFlyerFan (Jan 27, 2019)

Thanx for the history lesson. I think I remember seeing in about that vintage catalog (53 or 54) a kit to replace the older style couplers (link) with knuckler couplers at home for those that couldn't have a hobby shop switch them.
Never seen one on E-bay.

In regards to link couplers, which came first, brass weights or black weights? what year?


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Unweighted thin shank, 1946; unweighted thick shank, 1947; brass weight, 1948; black weight, 1949 to end of production (1953.)
Kits were first made with link couplers to allow owners of prewar O gauge AF to put on S gauge trucks with couplers. Kits were made for knuckle couplers but it was easier to buy split shank knuckle couplers and just put them on the link coupler trucks. I have some kits in their OB somewhere in my collection.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Be careful when adding or taking off wheels, the diameters of the outside rim are different.I have 3-4 different diameter wheels in my supply drawers.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

My locomotives would never pull the grades with load on my layout without traction tires.

I'm happy they come with them even if they are a consumable that has to be replaced from time to time.


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## AmFlyerFan (Jan 27, 2019)

flyernut said:


> Be careful when adding or taking off wheels, the diameters of the outside rim are different.I have 3-4 different diameter wheels in my supply drawers.


That I've figured out from collecting parts. I try to get just what I need but sometimes at garage sales, etc. it can be a crap shoot.
All part of the fun though.


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