# 322 Hudson



## flyernut

Picked up this little Hudson on ebay as a buy-it-now. I paid $79.95 for it, knowing it had 2 missing tender steps, but I have another good shell for it. I like the projects and I felt this would be a good one to play with during the loooong NY winters. Much to my surprise it is in better shape than what I wanted,lol...I hooked up my test tender to it, and it powered right up and took off nicely, on my treadmill. Forward and backwards just fine, a little faster in reverse than forward. Re-surfacing the armature should cure that. And talk about smoke!!! No need to mess with the smoke unit! The headlight did not work but after replacing the one that wasn't there, it lit right up! Now for the bad.. It was dropped on it's nose at some point, and the cowcatcher is bent down a little. Not much but noticeable, and I'll try my heat repair on it. I also have a white spacer/insulator that spins on the wheel. I have replacements and I'll try to get it fixed, hoping my quartering job will suffice. If not off to the shop she goes.Lettering is nice, and the handrails are nice, but I'll polish them up with 2000 grit wet/dry paper and make 'em shine.
On to the tender.. As mentioned before, 2 steps on the right side are missing, but I can get replacements for them and try a first time repair.Such a shame as the tender is nice! It needs a new wire harness but I have one in stock. I put the tender on my treadmill and it cycles 100% of the time, even though it's crusty and dirty with gunks of oil and crud. The link coupler is also present and is nice and movable. I now have 2 variants of the 322; one with SIT, and now this one with SIB.The original owner wanted $89.95 buy it now for the unit, and having not seen the right side of the loco/tender, I asked him for pictures of that side, and described what I was looking for. He responded that yes the tender was missing, and dropped the buy it now price to $79.95. That's when I jumped on it. I can't wait to get started on it, but I had surgery today and I just popped 2 Vicodins and they're starting to take hold..Thanks all for reading! I'm really excited about this project, as you all can probably tell,lol. I'll keep you folks posted on the results.... Loren


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## Aflyer

Flyernut,
Looks very nice, I would say you did very well. And it sounds like you have had experience with fixing a bent cow catcher. 
I bought a 293 a few years ago, it was bent badly enough that the pilot wheels would not turn. I was able to straighten it without heat, and just need to fix the paint, it is a great runner!!
Good luck, with your recovery and your rebuild.
Aflyer


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## tjcruiser

'Nut,

Nice acquisition. Classic lines on that loco.

Do you know what year AF that is?

TJ


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## THE TYCO MAN

Still not a bad deal! At least it runs and smokes well!


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## flyernut

Hi all.Well, I puttered around with the new girl last night and couldn't be more happier. I changed out a wheel set and actually got the quartering right!! At least it runs with the long linkage on. I'll have to try the entire linkage before I say "mission accomplished", but so far it looks/runs great. I re-surfaced the armature and she runs like a scalded dog in forward, very fast in reverse.Smokes like the dickens...I checked out the cowcatcher from my other 322 and both cowcatchers have the same downward slope, so I'm thinking maybe that's the way they came from the factory?? The angle is exactly the same, so who knows. I still have to polish the cab handrails and the one on the cowcatcher.I have to re-solder the wires to the headlight, plus replace the linkages, and that will be it for the engine.Here's a few pix of the loco on my treadmill, the tender, and my other 322, with SIT.


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## flyernut

Well, here she is, next to my other Hudson. Cleaned, lubed, re-faced armature, and a shot of Pledge. There's some paint loss, but this thing is a hot rod!!w


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## Nuttin But Flyer

I've been wanting a Hudson for some time now, but never seem to find one at a decent price. That is a nice catch !!! Looks great there with its twin sister.

Do you still need a tender for this? I was skimming the eBay ads over the weekend and saw someone selling a bunch of Hudson stuff piece-meal. Pretty sure a tender or two was listed.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Here is one listing I found for the front pilot assy...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/American-Fl...883788?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item1e730766cc


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Hey Nut -- Where did you get that test roller set-up and what was the cost??


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## flyernut

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> Hey Nut -- Where did you get that test roller set-up and what was the cost??


I made it. I have one for my O gauge stuff also. It's fun watching my big boy or Allegheny running on it. The cost was probably less than $5 bucks, as I had everything on hand. I might still have the roller bearings on hand if you'd like some to make your own test stand.


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## tjcruiser

tjcruiser said:


> 'Nut,
> 
> Nice acquisition. Classic lines on that loco.
> 
> Do you know what year AF that is?
> 
> TJ


Any idea on mfr year?

Just curious,

TJ


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## Nuttin But Flyer

I don't mind going out to get my own parts, but I'd like to see some more detailed shots of yours so I can get an idea how to create one, if you got the time to post extra pics?


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## flyernut

tjcruiser said:


> Any idea on mfr year?
> 
> Just curious,
> 
> TJ


Sorry it took so long to get back to you Tj.. The best I can do for years is 322, 1946-49. I can't pin it down any closer unless I pull the shells, and that ain't gonna happen any time soon,lol.


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## flyernut

This si the O gauge stand. The outer 2 sets are stationary, the rest are movable. Actually, you would probably only need the outer sets, come to think of it.


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## flyernut

S gauge test stand. I do have extra bearings, new, allen head screws, but not washers. The aluminum L angle stock can be bought anywhere,; Loews, Home Depot,etc. My engines tend to wobble just a shade, as I don't have the spacing REAL exact, but that can be cured very easily. To be honest, I haven't had my diesels on it just the steamers, as when I built the stand, I only had money for steamers and not diesels.They can be pricey. Would I would do different is make the outermost bearing block stationary, and have the inner blocks movable.I have a 4-8-4, (K335), and I would make stationary the blocks that would be under the outer drive wheels, the inner blocks would be movable to fit the "blind" drive wheels. Again, maybe you would only need the outer blocks.


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## flyernut

Don, if you want the bearings and allen screrws, let me know. They're yours.....


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## Nuttin But Flyer

You don't want any payment for them?


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## flyernut

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> You don't want any payment for them?


nope......


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Great. I'll PM my address. Forward the amount for postage and I'll reimburse that to you.


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## flyernut

I got your message, and I'll get these out to you tomorrow afternoon. No charge for shipping, nothing, nada, etc, I'll send 6 bearings, and 6 allen screws. The allen screws do fit inside the bearings, you'll just need to tap them a little...Loren


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Again, thanks a bunch....Don


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## tjcruiser

flyernut said:


> The best I can do for years is 322, 1946-49.


Thanks much!

I like documenting vintage in threads like this where we can, so that other's reading the info (now, and down the road) will be armed with a bit more historical info.

Cheers,

TJ


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Nut, I'm gonna guess that's a 1949 Hudson. If you look at the steam listings on American Flyer Express website, the photos between 1948 and 1949 correspond with the graphics on yours. The only diff is the S.I.T. hose running from the tender to the engine in 1948. Of course, that all depends on how accurate his website info is.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

I'm sorry -- I messed up ---- that looks to be a 1948 Hudson. The 1947 had the S.I.T. hose. My error.


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## flyernut

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> Nut, I'm gonna guess that's a 1949 Hudson. If you look at the steam listings on American Flyer Express website, the photos between 1948 and 1949 correspond with the graphics on yours. The only diff is the S.I.T. hose running from the tender to the engine in 1948. Of course, that all depends on how accurate his website info is.


When I sent my reply to Tj about the years, I checked each tender's graphic's and can find no difference. They say the same thing, in the same text. The only thing different is the hole on top of the tender for the s-i-t unit fill hole.


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## flyernut

tjcruiser said:


> Thanks much!
> 
> I like documenting vintage in threads like this where we can, so that other's reading the info (now, and down the road) will be armed with a bit more historical info.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> TJ


Nice idea...


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Hey nut -- got the bearings and screws today. This will make a great winter project. Thanks.


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## flyernut

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> Hey nut -- got the bearings and screws today. This will make a great winter project. Thanks.


Very much welcome. Let me know when you start it if there's any questions, maybe I can help.


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## flyernut

Well, I got the tender all serviced, and the combo runs great. Polished the drum, new fingers, and wiring... The shell that came with the engine had 2 broken steps on it. I ordered 2 new steps from Doug Peck at portLines and installed them. Doug suggested instant/crazy glue to attach them but I turned to my good ole friend, J.B.Weld, and they look factory. For anyone's info, the mating surfaces HAVE to be flat, so the steps look natural. I was going to take a picture of them but all the pix are blurry.I just need to spot paint them flat black and back on the tender chassis it will go.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

I'll be seeing Doug at the Eastern Div. TCA Show in York, PA tomorrow and Friday. Got a big list of parts to pick up as well as my little girl, my 0-8-0 switcher, after quartering.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Nut -- Got the other bearings and screws yesterday -- thanks again. It may be some time before I get to this project, but I'll keep you in mind when I need guidance.


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## imatt88

Nut,

What is your method of "heating" the cowcatcher to bend it back? 

I will have to do this on my Royal Bluehwell:

Cheers, Ian


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## flyernut

Ian, the article I read said to use a small plumbers torch, propane, and to heat it and bend it slowly and carefully. Keep using the heat and bend a small amount at a time.


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## imatt88

Ok, I have a small propane torch used to sweat copper pipe, so that should work.

I'll have to give it a try...


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## flyernut

imatt88 said:


> Ok, I have a small propane torch used to sweat copper pipe, so that should work.
> 
> I'll have to give it a try...


Exactly correct...


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## tjcruiser

Holding my breath and keeping all my fingers crossed ...

(I tried to straighten a cast loco shell without heat a while back ... bad idea ... CRACK!!!)

TJ


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## flyernut

Plenty of heat and EASY DOES IT!!!


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## imatt88

Ok, I'll let you guys know when the time comes


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## flyernut

IF, anything bad happens like a crack, just use some J.B.Weld as a filler, much like using Fiberglas as a filler on a car. You cam file it, sand it, and fix any problem with it.


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## norgale

flyernut said:


> Picked up this little Hudson on ebay as a buy-it-now. I paid $79.95 for it, knowing it had 2 missing tender steps, but I have another good shell for it. I like the projects and I felt this would be a good one to play with during the loooong NY winters. Much to my surprise it is in better shape than what I wanted,lol...I hooked up my test tender to it, and it powered right up and took off nicely, on my treadmill. Forward and backwards just fine, a little faster in reverse than forward. Re-surfacing the armature should cure that. And talk about smoke!!! No need to mess with the smoke unit! The headlight did not work but after replacing the one that wasn't there, it lit right up! Now for the bad.. It was dropped on it's nose at some point, and the cowcatcher is bent down a little. Not much but noticeable, and I'll try my heat repair on it. I also have a white spacer/insulator that spins on the wheel. I have replacements and I'll try to get it fixed, hoping my quartering job will suffice. If not off to the shop she goes.Lettering is nice, and the handrails are nice, but I'll polish them up with 2000 grit wet/dry paper and make 'em shine.
> On to the tender.. As mentioned before, 2 steps on the right side are missing, but I can get replacements for them and try a first time repair.Such a shame as the tender is nice! It needs a new wire harness but I have one in stock. I put the tender on my treadmill and it cycles 100% of the time, even though it's crusty and dirty with gunks of oil and crud. The link coupler is also present and is nice and movable. I now have 2 variants of the 322; one with SIT, and now this one with SIB.The original owner wanted $89.95 buy it now for the unit, and having not seen the right side of the loco/tender, I asked him for pictures of that side, and described what I was looking for. He responded that yes the tender was missing, and dropped the buy it now price to $79.95. That's when I jumped on it. I can't wait to get started on it, but I had surgery today and I just popped 2 Vicodins and they're starting to take hold..Thanks all for reading! I'm really excited about this project, as you all can probably tell,lol. I'll keep you folks posted on the results.... Loren


YEEEOOOWWW! What kind of engine was that last picture? Had a rag over the top with dual headlights and fuzzy looking cowcatcher. The boiler was kinda rounder than usual too. Ha! Pete


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## flyernut

norgale said:


> YEEEOOOWWW! What kind of engine was that last picture? Had a rag over the top with dual headlights and fuzzy looking cowcatcher. The boiler was kinda rounder than usual too. Ha! Pete


LOL!!!!!!! How the heck did THAT picture get in there??????? I couldn't figure out what picture/engine you were talking about until I went back in and checked. I think I'll leave it so other members here can get a good laugh!!... I've had several operations on my ear as parts and pieces of it keep dying, and the dr. keeps hacking off more and more.Hopefully, we're done !!


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Why not save the doctor's fees and use your Dremel?


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## flyernut

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> Why not save the doctor's fees and use your Dremel?


I would have, but I don't do too well looking in the mirror for cutting purposes,lol... Matter of fact, the wife usually pulls out all my stitches when it's time. I usually don't go back to the dr. for that but this time the dr. wanted to see results, and confer a little with me.


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