# Installing KD 148 couplers



## flyerrich (Feb 17, 2014)

This has probably been answered a million times on the forum, but..I want to install some 148 couplers on some of my cars that have the couplers part of the truck and some mounted on the bottom of the cars. Pics attached. Flat car has Lima Italy on the bottom, boxcar has "made in Taiwan. The boxcar is mounted to the bottom of the car when I open up the box and removed the coupler it has a molded pin about .075" dia. to center the existing coupler (too small a dia. for the 148) do I cut that off and use a screw to hold and locate the coupler ? What size screw? On the flat car the coupler is part of the truck. What procedure do you guys use here? Cutoff the coupler from the truck and mount the coupler box to the bottom of the car? If their is a website or forum area I can get the info from please let me know. Thanks


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## 3.8TransAM (Jan 13, 2016)

Judging by the looks of it and the pin size being too small, you might best be served by shaving the old coupler pocket off the car.

Then install the 148 using a Kadee coupler pocket and screw that to the frame.

Then u know you have the right size and won't be fighting with anything.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Above advise is good. You can even glue to the frame but the one thing that is absolute is getting the correct height so you need one of their gauges.


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

Cycleops said:


> Above advise is good. You can even glue to the frame but the one thing that is absolute is getting the correct height so you need one of their gauges.


I would not recommend gluing the coupler box to the frame, and certainly not glue the coupler lid on. There is a good chance that you will find that you will need to adjust the height of the couplers --- which could mean removing the lid and possibly the coupler box. One of the possible adjustments would be to put shims between the box and the frame, which would require the removal of the box. Another method is to use an offset coupler. Kadee makes both the shims and the offset couplers.

The standard screw size for couplers is 2-56. KaDee sells these screws in various lengths. They also sell a 2-56 tap and drill set that you can use with a pin vice to make your own threaded holes.

P.S. If you still have questions, call KaDee directly. They are very nice and helpful.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

The molded in bearing of the 148 draft box 
can be cut out, slipped over the 'too small'
one in the existing box. It has worked for
me in the past.

I would definitely cut the coupler off the trucks
and install body mount 148's.

The 'top' of the 148 draft box snaps in place.
However, it is easy to break it open if you
have too hard a coupling meet. I put a
couple drops of Super Glue (gel) to lock it
in, but still make it removable if need be.

Don


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

DonR said:


> The 'top' of the 148 draft box snaps in place. However, it is easy to break it open if you have too hard a coupling meet. I put a couple drops of Super Glue (gel) to lock it in, but still make it removable if need be.


I have also used Super Glue gel to hold coupler box covers on. But I find that sometimes the gel gets into the coupler box and freezes the coupler toggle -- even if I turn the car over right after gluing. I have taken to taping the lid in place at one end, then turning the car right side up and applying the glue to the other end of the lid from below with a toothpick. Once dry, I remove the tape and glue the other end in the same manner. Cumbersome, but necessary when drilling and tapping a screw hole is not an option.


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## flyerrich (Feb 17, 2014)

thanks


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

MtRR75 said:


> The standard screw size for couplers is 2-56. KaDee sells these screws in various lengths. They also sell a 2-56 tap and drill set that you can use with a pin vice to make your own threaded holes.


Kadee does sell the screws, but they are around $3.50 for a dozen of them. I have always had good service from Micro Fasteners, and their prices are a lot better than Kadee's.
For 2-56 screws, they charge around $2.30 for a package of 100.
https://www.microfasteners.com/home.php?cat=567
And they sell taps, drills, and dies.
Check 'em out.


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## ggnlars (Aug 6, 2013)

First off, center shank may not be all you will need. Some 147 couplers will likely be required. That way your not trying to remove a lot of material from the bottom of the car to have the couplers line up. 
I seldom use screws. It it has a screw, I will use it, but after a couple of removals, the screw no longer will hold in the plastic chassis. You either get a slightly larger diameter screw of do something else. That something else is plastic cement. My choice is Faller super expert. The last time I looked, it was in limited supply in the US for some reason. Any good plastic cement will do. Plastic cement works by fusing the two surfaces together by a chemical reaction. This creates a very strong bond. It works really well holding coupler pockets. Remember, a little goes a long way.
You will want to us a height gage and have some flat plastic shims to be sure the height is right. I do that holding the pocket in place with a rubber band. Once I'm sure it is good then I use the glue.
Larry
www.llxlocomotives.com


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## slammin (Mar 25, 2016)

The only problem with gluing the cover on, if you ever need to service the coupler, you're out of luck. Granted, if properly installed, a Kadee should never need any attention, except bending the trip pin. Another solution to a stripped 2-56 thread is gluing a short piece of styrene rod in the hole, the redrilling it and taping it. Several of the high end freight car kits, Red Caboose being one, use a glue together coupler pocket. I always replace them with a Kadee #5 pocket, and tap the floor of the body.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

slammin said:


> The only problem with gluing the cover on, if you ever need to service the coupler, you're out of luck. Granted, if properly installed, a Kadee should never need any attention, except bending the trip pin. Another solution to a stripped 2-56 thread is gluing a short piece of styrene rod in the hole, the redrilling it and taping it. Several of the high end freight car kits, Red Caboose being one, use a glue together coupler pocket. I always replace them with a Kadee #5 pocket, and tap the floor of the body.


Depends on what glue you use. CA is rather fragile. You can usually pop it off with a hobby knife, or dissolve it with acetone.

Epoxy, on the other hand, forms a permanent bond. Forget about removing it without cutting.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

flyerrich .. if you have any difficulty sourcing 2-56 screws, i can send you some, no problem , free..
a couple of years fastenal had a really good sale on various lengths ,, and i will never use up the amounts that i bought


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## lajrmdlr (Apr 25, 2014)

Here's a good source for 2-56 screws: http://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-screws/=135ith3
They have many lengths, materials, head types & slot types. They are sold in boxes o 100 but the price is 1/10 of hobby shops. They also carry many other things for model RR use.


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## fs2k4pilot (Jan 5, 2013)

With Kadee coupler pockets, the pocket lids are supposed to go against the underside of the car. That way the entire assembly is held securely by the screw with no need to glue the lid on.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

If you use a screw to attach the draft box you could
install it either way and the screw would retain the
'lid'.

Don


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## santafealltheway (Nov 27, 2012)

Lots of good advice here.

Here's a couple photos of one i did on a tanker, were there was no place to put the screw.


Simply clip off the coupler box like so...








Then I glued a small piece of scrap plastic, (in this case, a small piece of a barn roof) to the under side, after shaving the area flat with a file. Giving the screw somewhere to bite.

Looks like this ones on upside down haha


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## fs2k4pilot (Jan 5, 2013)

DonR said:


> If you use a screw to attach the draft box you could
> install it either way and the screw would retain the
> 'lid'.
> 
> Don


True, but I still put the lid against the underbody to keep it from getting bent or damaged.


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