# Just getting into the hobby..



## AnthonyL (Dec 9, 2013)

Hi everyone, so I have decided to get into model trains with my little boy. we have started building a layout using 1" foam board on my bench work.. I have planned my layout and started glueing down my foam track bed. I don't know if foam was the best choice but that's what the guy at the LHS recommended and that's all they had... But now Im at the point I want to start laying the track. I need to know whats the best way to fasten the track down? I was thinking using nails but kinda seems pointless putting them into foam. I was thinking using some caulking but I may want to add or change the layout a bit later on... Also I read somewhere on the net about leaving space between the rails and not soldering the rails so that when track expands it wont buckle, is that good practice?
Thanks for your help..


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

What scale are you modeling?


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## AnthonyL (Dec 9, 2013)

HO scale
right now its just a 4'x8' DC layout for practice.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Glad to have you on the Forum.

No, not nails.

Just a little glue is all you need to hold the foam, then the
track to the foam. On curves, you'll want to use stick pins
to hold the radius while the glue is setting if you are 
using flex track. You want to
go fairly light on the glue also. It doesn't take much to
hold the track in place. Use extreme care with glue 
around turnouts.

There are a number of glue choices. I used Elmer's white
glue.

The foam road bed is very good. Some prefer cork but that's
a judgement call.

Let us hear from you anytime you need help.

Don


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## AnthonyL (Dec 9, 2013)

Thanks Don.. would you recommend soldering the track or leaving gap between the rails?


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

After you glue it, let it sit for at least 24 hrs before you un-tack it.
It takes a while for the glue to set up.

With another sheet of 1" foam and you can carve deeper lakes and rivers if your planning that.


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

AnthonyL said:


> I may want to add or change the layout a bit later on... Also I read somewhere on the net about leaving space between the rails and not soldering the rails so that when track expands it wont buckle, is that good practice?
> Thanks for your help..


If you might change it do not glue it down. I use sowing pins to hold the track to the foam. I put them in at oppasset angles and they hold great. Some solder there track I do not.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Southern said:


> If you might change it do not glue it down. I use sowing pins to hold the track to the foam. I put them in at oppasset angles and they hold great. Some solder there track I do not.




Merry Christmas Southern. 
Santa good to you?


Translation.
Sowing pins = Sewing pins
oppasset = opposite


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I'll second white glue, some adhesives don't play well with foam. Check the label.


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## golfermd (Apr 19, 2013)

AnthonyL said:


> Thanks Don.. would you recommend soldering the track or leaving gap between the rails?


I'd leave some gaps throughout the layout so you can electrically isolate sections (turnouts, yards, reversing loops, etc.). That will make trouble shooting and track management an easier task. As your layout grows more complexity will be introduced, as well as a greater chance of screwing up something electrical. There are various products out there to fill the gaps and provide electrical isolation between track ends.


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## DCHO (Dec 3, 2013)

On YouTube search for woodland scenics. They have an hour long video explaining their foam system and how to work with foam lay track ballast paint etc. They also have more videos for other ad advanced techniques. Showcases their product, but can apply to others. Demonstrates what has been mentioned in the thread already.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

AnthonyL said:


> Thanks Don.. would you recommend soldering the track or leaving gap between the rails?



It all depends on the size and design of your layout. Right here, when
you are getting started, I'd use just the joiners. As you get experience
and make the changes in layout that are almost inevitable, you would most likely
want to solder some joints, and, as has been noted, you would likely
want to isolate some sections with insulated joiners or a gap cut
in the rails.

As you will discover, there will be times in the future when
a section of your track loses power due
to poor contact with a joiner, or, as happened to me, ballast glue seeped
into it and blocked conductivity. The solution, solder the joint.

Don


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## AnthonyL (Dec 9, 2013)

Thanks to all of you.. I have started gluing track down and everything is looking pretty good.. However the flex track is being a pain..


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## timlange3 (Jan 16, 2013)

Double sided tape may work too, would be good to fasten the flex with.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Anthony

It is helpful to pin the flex track to hold it's position until
the glue sets. If you used the recommended 50/50 Elmer's
glue and water, you should be able to loosed the errant
flex track, get it in the right position, pin it down as you
glue it. A sharp thin knife sliding under the ties usually
does the trick.

If you ran into the flex problem of joint kinks on a curve you
might want to use the staggered joiner method. With
it the joiners are not side by side. One 
rail is cut an inch or so longer than the other. You slip
the rails back into the little tie plates to maintain
track gauge. This method helps avoid kinks in your
curves.

D


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## trains galore (Jul 22, 2013)

Hi!
It is a good idea to have a very small gap between the rails in joiners as the temperature changes can and DO make the rails expand a little, we had this happen at a club layout, the track just expanded, had nowhere to go and lifted Rare though!

You can also use cork sheeting for your track bed, I've never really used it but i have seen it done
I found the woodland scenics ''glue'' for the scatter was weak and expensive, don't bother with it PVA slightly diluted is just as good if not better and much cheaper. It does go on white, but don't worry as it will dry and you won't see a thing. Mine took about 24 hours to fully stick the scenic scatter down.
Have fun anyway


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