# Wiring question



## Bkubiak (Oct 20, 2013)

Not sure wether to post this here on on the HO gauge section but here is the question.

Other then twisting together wire connections, Holding then steady in one hand, and bringing the soldering iron to it with the other hand and putting the solder to the deal with another hand and covering the joint with shrink wrap, which sometimes I forgot to slip on the wire first which is hard to do for an 76 years old man sitting under the table, is there a faster way to do it, I want to connect all the lights that go in the houses and street lamps etc. and wire up switch's, er turnouts

When I retired I worked part time at West Marine and a lot of the Marine electronics we sold came with some little plastic button gizmos smaller then a dime that you stuck the wires in and squeezed it with a pair of pliers and that released or mixed some very fast setting epoxy that made the whole thing waterproof as well as connecting the wire.

We also sold butt connectors there with shrink wrap on them, but the smallest we sold were actually to big for the wires we use on our trains .

I am just asking is there a better and faster way to do the deed?????


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

It sounds like you are talking about a kind of suitcase connector, although the ones we use don't have to be waterproof. You can also use wire nuts, terminal strips, or Fahnestock clips. 

It is also possible to add heat shrink tubing after soldering -- slit a piece down the side and slip it over the wires. Shrink it. Then add another, larger diameter piece with the slit 180 out from the first. A hassle, but not as much as undoing your joint to add the tubing. Also, there's nothing wrong with a little bare wire, so long as no risk of a short exists (terminal strips, for instance, have a plastic barrier to keep wires from touching).

Nothing beats a soldered joint, but I think the various mechanical joints work pretty will, and are a lot less of a headache to use.

And in my opinion, because everyone does SOME wiring, this is the right place.


----------



## Bkubiak (Oct 20, 2013)

CTValleyRR said:


> It sounds like you are talking about a kind of suitcase connector, although the ones we use don't have to be waterproof. You can also use wire nuts, terminal strips, or Fahnestock clips.
> 
> It is also possible to add heat shrink tubing after soldering -- slit a piece down the side and slip it over the wires. Shrink it. Then add another, larger diameter piece with the slit 180 out from the first. A hassle, but not as much as undoing your joint to add the tubing. Also, there's nothing wrong with a little bare wire, so long as no risk of a short exists (terminal strips, for instance, have a plastic barrier to keep wires from touching).
> 
> ...



Thanks for your response. Gonna need some clarification here, I know what a terminal strip is, we used them on boats and planes, but what is a wire nut and a Fahnestock clip

I know there are kwick clips that are used in automobile radio shops when they are installing stereos, it's a deal that you lay the wire in and squeeze it together with a plier and it cuts right thru the wire insulation and locks itself together, I bought a box of the smallest at Pep Boys but even the smallest is too big for the wires we use

There has gotta be some quick way to connect these really thin wires without the hassle of getting out the soldering Iron, and working with it under a table.


----------



## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

You have likely seen them before; here is a cut-away of a wire nut:


----------



## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*Stab on male & Female automotive electrical connectors*

~1/4"plated, crimp,on plated connector a(grayish silver in color male or female connecter. Usually found in the automotive electrical section. Hardware store?
Also, it has been suggested to solder the crimped on connector. That may be optional.
possibly, use heat shrink tubing. Low voltage stab on quick connectors, Male and female.
Good luck with your connections.


----------



## JerryH (Nov 18, 2012)

Are you talking about these?
http://www.easycablings.com/sale-23...re-splices-quick-connect-wire-connectors.html


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

A Fahnestock clip looks like this: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_7?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=fahnestock+clips&sprefix=fahnestock+clips%2Caps%2C286.

You put one wire under the screw that mounts the clip, and the other into the clip. If the wires are the same gauge, you can put them both in the clip.

Your best bet for this stuff is on-line stores or specialty electronics stores. The stuff at home improvement / hardware stores and auto parts places is generally too big for our applications. I have a box of wire nuts that will work on 18-24 AWG wire, but I'm not sure where I got them; Radio Shack, maybe.


----------



## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*Best and better electrical connections.*

Suit case connectors are also an option. But they may become less reliable over time?
WTH,its only low voltage, not house wiring in electrical junction boxes. tr1


----------



## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*rimp on small lugs/connectors of some type!*

They do make very small wire nuts that do accept very small gauge wire. This probably
will be your" best bet".If you chose not to go with blk. terminal strips with screws for the crimp on "U" connectors.
Best wishes and good luck
tr1


----------



## fcwilt (Sep 27, 2013)

You can always apply "liquid electrical tape" after the fact if you forget the HS tubing.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-4-fl-oz-Liquid-Electrical-Tape-Black-LTB-400/100119178

I've used this in a number of different applications.


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Hardware, Home Depot, Lowes and Menards would have an
assortment of Wire Nut Sizes. I'd suggest the Blue ones and
the next larger and next smaller. They are plastic with
a spring coil inside that acts as 'threads' on your twisted
wire connection and simply screws on. You'll find these as easy
as any other connection. I haven't used the suitcase type
of connector. They also comes in sizes for most wire gauges
at the same stores as the Wire Nuts. Many of our members
prefer them.

One tip to make the under the table wiring a tad
easier, attach drop wires to your turnout motors before
you install them. That way you would simply splice using
one of the above when it's time to wire them.

Don


----------



## Bkubiak (Oct 20, 2013)

Old_Hobo said:


> You have likely seen them before; here is a cut-away of a wire nut:


twist on connectors, never knew the correct name was Wire Nuts, I have plenty of them in all sizes except the ten size we need of course.


----------



## Bkubiak (Oct 20, 2013)

Now that we have all this information, if I was to look under all your tables what type of connections am I likely to see.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Solder connections.


----------



## JerryH (Nov 18, 2012)

I soldered all my connections.


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

A combination of suitcase connectors, fahnestock clips, and terminal blocks. If you could see anything though the wire spaghetti...


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Wire nuts, terminal blocks and soldered connections.

Don


----------



## Bkubiak (Oct 20, 2013)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Solder connections.


here are a few pics of tiny solder connections, I put a dime and a track nail there for size comparison.
Can anyone show me how to make tiny solder connections like this under a table, I have a small old, but usable Weller #SP-23, 25 watt iron


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

You'll get several soldering suggestions...everybody
has a favorite system.

I like to dip the wire ends into paste flux then
tin them before twisting together, or wrapping
around, as the case may be. Then I carry a small
tab of solder on the tip of my iron. Just a touch
and you'll see the metal bond.

Tin your track drops before installing them
on the track. Same with wires from building
lights, and turnout motors.

I also use a small lightweight 25 watt iron with
one of the small tips.

And you must have a fireproof pad to support your
soldering iron holder. Somehow they manage
to get loose at times.

Don


----------



## Bkubiak (Oct 20, 2013)

DonR said:


> You'll get several soldering suggestions...everybody
> has a favorite system.
> 
> I like to dip the wire ends into paste flux then
> ...


you lost me when you said you tin them, what do you mean and how do I do it?


----------



## highvoltage (Apr 6, 2014)

Bkubiak said:


> you lost me when you said you tin them, what do you mean and how do I do it?


Tinning is adding solder (which is partially made of tin). Heat the wire, add some solder and the wire is now "pre-tinned." That way you don't have to add it later.


----------



## Bkubiak (Oct 20, 2013)

highvoltage said:


> Tinning is adding solder (which is partially made of tin). Heat the wire, add some solder and the wire is now "pre-tinned." That way you don't have to add it later.


I just cannot be that simple, at least not for me

Is this the way to do it or am I missing something

1. remove some insulation from wire, about one inch
2. dip bare wire in flux
3. heat iron
4. melt a dap of solder on tip of iron
5. touch tip of iron to fluxed wire

I could never quite get the hang of soldering copper pipe until a plumber friend had me do a practice session soldering and unsoldering copper pipe and fittings over and over several times until suddenly it clicked and now I am fairly good at that, but I was using a torch

I recently watched a video on the Ribbon rail site about how to solder track over and over and found I was doing it wrong wrong wrong now I can do it like a pro, there are tricks to everything, we just need someone to show us the tricks


----------



## highvoltage (Apr 6, 2014)

Bkubiak said:


> I just cannot be that simple, at least not for me
> 
> Is this the way to do it or am I missing something
> 
> ...


You've got it. Flux is optional, most solders should contain enough. In step 5 you might need to add additional solder, depending on the size of the wire.


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Some do omit the flux, but I have found that it
does help get a quicker connection.

Yes, you have the soldering steps right. Get
the gel resin flux, not the flux you used on
the copper pipes. You don't need much either.
I get it in a can about like what shoe polish 
came in.

Don


----------



## fcwilt (Sep 27, 2013)

Solder may or may not contain flux.

The package it came or or the spool it is on will tell you if it contains flux and what kind.

For electronics work you want rosin flux. 

It certainly doesn't hurt to use additional flux from a can, tube, etc but I rarely find that is necessary.

YMMV.


----------



## Bkubiak (Oct 20, 2013)

Just bought a new 30 watt iron at Northern with a very sharp tip for 5.99 and a can of SeaFoam, it was on sale for 5.99 gonna dump it in the boats gas tank to prevent bad stuff from happening

My tin of Flux says on the cover Oatey No.95 Lead Free tinning flux for use with lead free solder, I have another can of flux someplace but is this the right stuff?


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

No that is not the flux you want for electrical soldering.

Their instructions say NOT FOR ELECTRICAL SOLDERING. It
is for soldering metal parts together, such as the copper
pipes you once did.

http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0LE...Flux.pdf/RK=0/RS=l__ObXBMzJtJqB2_IN2Pbbrlk5A-

You want Resin flux. The container often states that it is for
soldering electrical or electronic parts.

Don


----------



## fcwilt (Sep 27, 2013)

Bkubiak said:


> Just bought a new 30 watt iron at Northern with a very sharp tip for 5.99 and a can of SeaFoam, it was on sale for 5.99 gonna dump it in the boats gas tank to prevent bad stuff from happening
> 
> My tin of Flux says on the cover Oatey No.95 Lead Free tinning flux for use with lead free solder, I have another can of flux someplace but is this the right stuff?



Here is a common solder for electronics work:

http://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-...sim_469_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0DW9FCEAA3YAHVM0T90J

The flux is already inside the solder and for most work this is fine.


----------



## Bkubiak (Oct 20, 2013)

Found my other tin of flux, it is Oatey H-20 Water Soluble Tinning Flux

What the Flux


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Oatey normally sells stuff for plumbing, the Oatey H-20 is DEFINITELY not for electrical work!


----------

