# Caboose lights



## Conductorkev (Nov 5, 2021)

I want to install a couple of lights into a couple of roundhouse caboose kits I just bought but was wondering the best way to go about doing it.



I'm on dcc so without a decoder I can't get power that way correct?

So my thought was to put a 9v battery into each run two lights in each with resistors that would work right?

I see one problem tho how could I install a way to turn them off when not in use?? I thought about putting a push button some where but at a loss where. Any ideas??


----------



## rrman987 (Aug 29, 2021)

Consider a reed switch on under floor. Use a small magnet next to it to turn lights on.
Or ingeniously fasten a switch next to caboose smoke stack so when pressed down or twisted, lights go on.


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

For smoke units and lights I use a simple slide switch. Screwed or epoxied in place. For a caboose I would mount it on the bottom frame. Drill out a slot to have it face down.


----------



## Conductorkev (Nov 5, 2021)

rrman987 said:


> Consider a reed switch on under floor. Use a small magnet next to it to turn lights on.
> Or ingeniously fasten a switch next to caboose smoke stack so when pressed down or twisted, lights go on.



Ya I thought about the smokestack and cutting a bigger hole for the button to be right at roof level then glue stack on button top but wasn't sure how that would look.

Hmm thinking maybe a small wire that leads from the lights to battery and just put a tiny quick connect in there and tie it underneath or somewhere not that noticeable.


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

You can light your caboose with DCC track power.
I tried both incandescent and LED. Incandescent
is easier to install and it's light looks more like that
used in cabooses. You would need a wire to brass strips
that rub against the rear of metal wheels. I used both trucks for
even power pickup. Metal wheel axles are insulated so
as not to short out. Use bulbs in series so can handle
the 14 volt DCC track power, or you can substitute a
resistor to drop the voltage. No switch or battery 
needed. 

Don


----------



## Stejones82 (Dec 22, 2020)

Saw this once and thought it might be of interest to you. I am not sure he is still selling kits or not. 



Project 5 Add Lighting to an HO Caboose


----------



## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

I’ve done this. But one question: is this an old wooden type or more modern steel type?

On older wooden cars the lanterns were on the side. Tomar makes lighted Adlake marker lights for this. They’re great.
On modern cars the light was more like a sealed beam, hanging from the roof usually center or off center.

Either incandescent or LED will work. With incandescent I advise using a resister to limit it to half full voltage to extend bulb life & reduce heat.

Pickup & switches. You can use a stationary decoder. That was my plan, but I recently changed m mind. 2 benefits to this is you needn’t touch the car and can set lights in each end opposite the direction of travel. Downside is you have one more decoder to call up.
Slide/rotary switch. My first one I drilled out the smokejack hole so the stack freely rotated. I made that the handle of a rotary switch inside. 
A magnetic reed switch is the easiest. Downside is you cannot have just the rear light on, unless you install two reed switches. But it indeed simplifies things & is a lot more cost effective. This is my new adopted method. Just tape the tail end with a wand magnet to turn that light on/off. 
I use copper strips with wires attached, and glued to the under frame. Each contacts one insulated axles, with tension pushing downward, not upward, so it assists with rail contact & doesn’t fight it. Although I may improve this method using metal trucks & brass washers to eliminate that copper strip. A performance & cost comparison will decide that, butveitger method should work. I’ve only done the first method so far.

Power from DC or AC track power is possible, just different components because DC & AC waves are different. For modern cars you’ll want a constant brightness board in there. For oil lanterns you actually want to skip that as the intermittent power will make the lanterns flicker as they should.

Unfortunately I no longer have the old style caboose to share photos of. Sold it to an Australian way back around 2005. My current cars halted at the point of decoder installation. I experimented to see if cheap loco decoders could be programmed without a motor draw detected. They can’t be. It confuses them. So I need to get a few dozen reed switches from a wholesaler.


----------



## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

This is what I did to add pickups to a tender for a project I did. I have since gone back and used a much smaller gauge wire. Simple and it works! You have to use wheelsets with metal axles, though.








Bachmann 0-6-0 switcher #4439


I have 4 Bachmann 0-6-0 switchers, 2 are DCC On-Board models, and 2 are straight DC models. I have two each of black paint scheme and passenger service greyhound scheme. Someday I may convert the two DC loco's to DCC, but not for now. The greyhound DCC decoder went belly-up so I'll have to...




modelrailroadforums.com


----------

