# Seeking info on this steamer



## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Made in Yugoslavia. That's all o can find printed on it. Anyone know what brand or anything about this particular model? Good, bad or indifferent?






































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## Aard D'Vaark (Aug 1, 2019)

looks like AHM on the bottom, maybe 20 or 30 bucks?


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## Erniekim (May 15, 2020)

Ouch. looks to me like there’s a lot more than 20 or 30 dollars worth of fun there so it seems like it’s a good deal.


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Sorry, that was a typo. Seeking info! I just got it in an ebay lot. This, two Bachmann pancakes, a Tyco switcher (I think, still learning) a bunch of Tyco rolling stock and a few power supplies. Maybe not the deal of the century, but after resoldering a few wires and cleaning things up I've got this one and the Bachmann running decently.

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## prrfan (Dec 19, 2014)

The steamer is a Mehano. I have one just like it. They’re decent runners (for inexpensive models). 
If you don’t have a tender for it you may be able to find one on eBay.


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

prrfan said:


> The steamer is a Mehano. I have one just like it. They’re decent runners (for inexpensive models).
> If you don’t have a tender for it you may be able to find one on eBay.


I have a tender "Chattanooga". It runs fairly well, although there is a bit of an occasional stutter and a tendency for the front wheel to derail. I think it just needs broke on a bit, it seems to get better the more I run it. Although it's noisey! Might try to stuff a loco genie in it.

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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You might want to find the missing trailing truck as well.


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## Aard D'Vaark (Aug 1, 2019)

there's a trailing truck ??? missed that completely, lol


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## prrfan (Dec 19, 2014)

There’s no trailing truck. It’s an 0-8-0.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

It may BE a 0-8-0 in it's current configuration, but it wasn't designed to be one. The overhang at the rear is too long, and there's an empty screw hole in the bottom. True 0-8-0's were more centered over the drivers, in order to get the max weight on them, thereby increasing tractive effort. The gap between the cylinders and the front pilot indicates that there are supposed to be wheels there as well. My guess is that it's supposed to be a 2-8-2 Mikado or 2-8-4 Berkshire

Anything made in Yugoslavia (now Slovenia) is by Mehano, regardless of what company's name is on the box, and as stated, they are good, inexpensive locos. I have 3 of them, from IHC's Premier Series: a GP 24, a 4-6-2 Pacific and a 2-8-2 Mikado. These are a step up jn detail, but all converted nicely to DCC and run very well.


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Yeah, I didn't really see where anything would be missing. I don't know a lot about trains, so sometimes you just don't know what you don't know... Ya know. But it doesn't look like anything is missing.

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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Another duplicate post...


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## prrfan (Dec 19, 2014)

vette-kid said:


> Yeah, I didn't really see where anything would be missing. I don't know a lot about trains, so sometimes you just don't know what you don't know... Ya know. But it doesn't look like anything is missing.
> 
> Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk


What CTValley stated is true. However, none of the models I’ve ever seen of those have included a trailing truck. Finding one or kit bashing a set on there would be challenging but certainly not impossible. 
Mine runs fine as it is. I doubt your derailing problem is due to not having this truck. 
It’s true, they do look weird without it.


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

That's interesting. Are you guys saying the train it's modeled after should have a trailing truck and they just didn't put it on this version, or that this model may be missing something?


There is an open hole, but it does not appear anything had ever been in there. It's not threaded or scratched even.











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## cid (Jul 3, 2014)

Google "0-8-0 917"
You will find a lot of info and related photos of this model.
I also thought that unsupported firebox/cab was not practical, but...


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## cid (Jul 3, 2014)

Looks like Tyco/AHM/Mehano used that same chassis and/or that same boiler/cab 
for more than one model, 2-8-2, 0-8-0, 4-6-2. Must have been popular!


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

While the model may never have had a trailing truck, that gap just seems way too long. Even the googled 080 shows the cab staring just after the drivers which is not the case for this model. It also does not appear to have mounting provisions for any pilot trucks. The mystery deepens.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

This is what a typical 0-8-0 model would look like.
View attachment 543406


Yours clearly was designed to have a trailing truck. Just because it's not there now, or maybe never was, that doesn't mean it's not needed for this to be a complete model. The huge void under the cab looks totally out of place without the proper truck.


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## cid (Jul 3, 2014)

What mystery? "Google "0-8-0 917"

You'll get pics and info. It has mounting holes for trailing truck used in other configurations,
the pilot probably mounted (if configured) using the existing screw between the cylinders.

" Looks like Tyco/AHM/Mehano used that same chassis and/or that same boiler/cab
for more than one model, 2-8-2, 0-8-0, 4-6-2."

That info came from a Tyco Forum. Along with pictures.


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## cid (Jul 3, 2014)

Chattanooga Choo-Choo


states:
"For its final pair of appearances, 1991 and 1992, in the TYCO product catalog, the name reverts to *Chattanooga Choo-Choo* (No.7425) and the set contents is very different from all previous offerings.

The biggest change is the switch to mostly Yugoslovian-made items from the original Hong Kong produced TYCO pieces. TYCO exits HO-scale trains in 1993 and the last few years found many substitutions among items in the line. The Chattanooga set is no exception to these changes. Though TYCO doesn't specify the wheel arrangement for its steam loco in the 1991 catalog, the image shows an 0-8-0 Chattanooga locomotive with the silver boiler-end and brown cab roof. The loco however has now become #917 in the Chattanooga roster. The boiler design and general appearance of this last Chattanooga 0-8-0 seems to favor the Mehano-made IHC Premier Series 2-8-2 Mikado Steam Engine. Very likely Mehano in Europe is the maker of both items."


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## cid (Jul 3, 2014)

There is likely no prototype for this Tyco 0-8-0 anyway, so the real "mystery" is why they would produce it! 😂


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> This is what a typical 0-8-0 model would look like.
> View attachment 543406
> 
> 
> Yours clearly was designed to have a trailing truck. Just because it's not there now, or maybe never was, that doesn't mean it's not needed for this to be a complete model. The huge void under the cab looks totally out of place without the proper truck.


I agree it looks odd. I can't see your picture for some reason though

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## cid (Jul 3, 2014)

I should have specified, look at "Images" tab when Googling the 917. You will see beaucoup photos of Vette's exact model on page 1. 
Like I said, I think they're all foobies anyway...


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Good points, all. I did forget that we might be dealing with a brand that doesn't particularly care about a realistic appearance, but is trying to get as much mileage out of one design as possible.

Mehano CAN make very nicely detailed and realistic models (I have 3 of them), but they will also crank out junk if someone pays them to do it.


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## Cosmo706 (Mar 13, 2017)

That's definitely supposed to be a 2-8-2.
I have the same model I'm working on now to add DCC.
These engines are great starters for kitbashing/customization!
Decent runners, very affordable, and the detail level is such it won't break your heart to shave off molded-on details and replace them with castings.

Have FUN!


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

I've found a lead and trailing truck that I believe will work. I'm going to play and with it a bit and see.

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## Cosmo706 (Mar 13, 2017)

Good deal!
I can always take pictures of mine if you need to see how/where the trucks attach to the frame.
Might take me a day or so to get it to you, but I will make it happen.


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

I think I see how they go on. Once they get here I'll let you know how it goes.

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## Cosmo706 (Mar 13, 2017)

You may have to imprivise some if you don't have all the original screws.
DEFS let us know!


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Yeah, I have a drawer full of small screws, hopefully something works.

While we're at it, any idea where I could find a replacement light lens? (not sure if there is a proper railroad term here... Headlamp?). This one just had a hole in the front, no lens or housing. 

And because I can't leave alone, I'm considering repainting. I like to tinker, so this means like the one to play with. The only example I see so far with some color is USRA in green. Any others?

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## Cosmo706 (Mar 13, 2017)

If the original HL is missing, consider filling the hole with "squadron putty" and mount a whole new casting for the headlight.
The original light castings are overly large (to house the bulb) and not super realistic.

As for the repaint, go for it! You can get custom made decals these days quite easily. I had to do mine the old fashioned way: single-letter water-slide decal sheets.
(Try lettering "NEW YORK & NEW ENGLAND" letter-by-letter!)


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Cosmo706 said:


> If the original HL is missing, consider filling the hole with "squadron putty" and mount a whole new casting for the headlight.
> The original light castings are overly large (to house the bulb) and not super realistic.
> 
> As for the repaint, go for it! You can get custom made decals these days quite easily. I had to do mine the old fashioned way: single-letter water-slide decal sheets.
> (Try lettering "NEW YORK & NEW ENGLAND" letter-by-letter!)


Where would one find the HL casting? One that at least looks in place (not necessary to be correct). I'm not sure I understand filling it, if like to keep and operable headlamp. Although I could switch to having there light back a ways with a sorry of fiber optic setup or switch to a smaller LED Lamp if I can find one that small in warm white. I have 2mm bulbs but they are too white for this application.

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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

When I was looking for parts for my Bachmann 0-6-0 project, I went here:








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Replace your train's old parts with the new HO scale Parts available at Trainz. We not only repair parts but also Locomotive and car detail parts, etc. Visit us today.




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Look at some of the manufacturers names and check around.


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## Cosmo706 (Mar 13, 2017)

vette-kid said:


> Where would one find the HL casting? One that at least looks in place (not necessary to be correct). I'm not sure I understand filling it, if like to keep and operable headlamp. Although I could switch to having there light back a ways with a sorry of fiber optic setup or switch to a smaller LED Lamp if I can find one that small in warm white. I have 2mm bulbs but they are too white for this application.
> 
> Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk


My suggestion:
FIRST, find a PICTURE of a prototype you want to copy/emulate.
Second: decide if you want to use a tiny bulb or a (possibly) tinier LED.
You can fill in the gaping hole in the smokebox front, possibly leaving a small hole for the headlight wire to protrude through.
Any casting you get is going to need a different bulb from the one included with your engine. If you decide to use an LED (as I would) be sure to put a resistor (1000 Ohms or so) in series or you will wind up with an overly bright light with a likelyhood of burning out.
Once you've decided which headlight casting you are going to use, measure and drill the proper sized hole in the smokebox front to mount the new headlight.


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