# Has anyone had any success with EZ Track?



## ftauss (Sep 18, 2012)

I'm asking because I collected quite a bit of it in the past. I have tried Kato and I like it very much BUT I have quite a bit. I think my real problem from the past was using the 11 inch curves. I have way to many of them but when I have had trouble it has been with them. And those 11 inch turnouts. I had spent a great deal of time "fixing" them, I had gotten many of them free. 

I have the bigger radius curves and #4 and #6 turnouts and the crossovers. I am about ready to start making a test layouts before making a more semi permanent one. I just have so such of it that 1 for 1 replacement will be quite though I might get some store credit for a trade/sell to LHS.

Some people must be having success or no one would be buying the larger radius turns and the #4 and #6 turnouts. The numbered turnouts have worked Ok for me anyway in early testing.

Frank


----------



## tntwolt (Sep 3, 2020)

ftauss said:


> I'm asking because I collected quite a bit of it in the past. I have tried Kato and I like it very much BUT I have quite a bit. I think my real problem from the past was using the 11 inch curves. I have way to many of them but when I have had trouble it has been with them. And those 11 inch turnouts. I had spent a great deal of time "fixing" them, I had gotten many of them free.
> 
> I have the bigger radius curves and #4 and #6 turnouts and the crossovers. I am about ready to start making a test layouts before making a more semi permanent one. I just have so such of it that 1 for 1 replacement will be quite though I might get some store credit for a trade/sell to LHS.
> 
> ...


#6 turnouts are expensive to buy. still working on mine. good to have on `running` track as they look realistic. getting back into this so i don`t know everything.


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

EZ Track turnouts in HO scale are garbage. The track itself is fine, if you accept the limitations of roadbed track. I would imagine it's the same in N.


----------



## ftauss (Sep 18, 2012)

I ran some tests last night. A simple oval 17.5" radius with a # 6 passing siding. The turnouts themselves seemed to work fine but they are NOT power routing like the old ones. I also had lots of electrical issues, at one point I thought the transformer was bad.

Tonight I'm going to set up a Kato loop with the passing sidings. If it runs from the start without issues I'm done. Both of the local LHSs said they would look at my pile of N EZ Track and make me an offer. I would even take store credit. I'm 61 and I don't want to fiddle around with what should be basic function. I want to run trains. Set up a layout, clean up my engines, get all the rolling stock with crap trucks converted. I can't keep screw9ng around with the track.

tntwolt, if you would like to discuss acquiring my stuff shoot me a PM or email. I have I have at least 3 each #6 R and L, #4 R and L, and a WYE. I have at least one full circle of the 12.5", 14", 15.5 and 17.5", many 11" and 19" curves, zippy bags full of 5", 4.5", fitter pieces, bumpers, 10" straights, terminal straights and terminal/rerailer straights. I even have 2 of the curved rerailers/terminals but I wouldn't wish those on my worst enemy - I call them derailers. Lots of of the wire with the black connectors and spade connectors and the switch controllers. Oh and 2 cross overs 1 left 1 right. Oodles of turnout controllers and even a zippy bag of the early turnouts. Some of it is still on the retail card hanger, mostly the turnouts and 1 crossover.

I collected this over many years waiting for the time. I just spent an a$$load of money on an addition that is my train room/hobby room/man cave. I do not to keep trying to make it work.

I can do a physical inventory for actual quantities if you'd like. I can assure you a good discount off of retail, the shipping might be an issue.


----------



## tntwolt (Sep 3, 2020)

ftauss said:


> I ran some tests last night. A simple oval 17.5" radius with a # 6 passing siding. The turnouts themselves seemed to work fine but they are NOT power routing like the old ones. I also had lots of electrical issues, at one point I thought the transformer was bad.
> 
> Tonight I'm going to set up a Kato loop with the passing sidings. If it runs from the start without issues I'm done. Both of the local LHSs said they would look at my pile of N EZ Track and make me an offer. I would even take store credit. I'm 61 and I don't want to fiddle around with what should be basic function. I want to run trains. Set up a layout, clean up my engines, get all the rolling stock with crap trucks converted. I can't keep screw9ng around with the track.
> 
> ...


thanks for the offer. i am done with track. and the Bachmann turnouts needed a little filing at the frogs. trains just wizzing around in spite of the naysayers.


----------



## Mixed Freight (Aug 31, 2019)

Hello All,

I have been into N-scale for almost 2 decades, and one thing I have found out is that Bachmann N-scale EZ Track is under-gauged by a few thousandths of an inch, if not more. Cheaper, train set quality Bachmann locos and rolling stock are equally under-gauged to be able to run on it with a minimum of problems. Not to mention that a lot of older, cheaper brands of trains were also under-gauged, a few of which may still be manufactured as of late (Model Power for one comes to mind).

Atlas, Peco, and Kato track and switches are properly gauged, and of course their locos and rolling stock, along with other upscale manufacturers locos and rolling stock, all run good on properly gauged switches and track. Even Bachmann introduced some better quality N-scale locos and rolling stock in the past decade or so that performs better on their competitions track because it is properly gauged (maybe some of the time, anyway).

Switches are much more demanding of matching wheel gauges than mere straight and curved track are. Under-gauged trains only run best on the under-gauged Bachmann switches. And properly gauged trains only perform best on properly gauged switches. Mixing one with the other always leads to derailment problems.

Even if you only own a few tools, an NMRA track and wheel gauge should be one of them. Virtually all hobby shops carry them or can get them, and likewise with mail order outfits. With this tool, you can check and adjust your wheel gauges on all of your equipment for best running characteristics on whatever particular brand of track you have.

Just remember - Bachmann track: under-gauged. Atlas/Peco/Kato track: properly gauged. You need to gauge your wheel sets accordingly for best performance.

Hope this little tidbit of information helps.
Paul.


----------



## ftauss (Sep 18, 2012)

Yeah. I took my EZ Track to the LHS after doing inventory. About $4,400 retail for everything according to current retail prices at Bachmann Trains website. I did not pay that much for it. We agreed on 25% $1,100 as store credit. Works for me.


----------



## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

Sounds like you got a great deal


----------



## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

ftauss said:


> I'm asking because I collected quite a bit of it in the past. I have tried Kato and I like it very much BUT I have quite a bit. I think my real problem from the past was using the 11 inch curves. I have way to many of them but when I have had trouble it has been with them. And those 11 inch turnouts. I had spent a great deal of time "fixing" them, I had gotten many of them free.
> 
> I have the bigger radius curves and #4 and #6 turnouts and the crossovers. I am about ready to start making a test layouts before making a more semi permanent one. I just have so such of it that 1 for 1 replacement will be quite though I might get some store credit for a trade/sell to LHS.
> 
> ...


Frank;

The fact that many Bachman turnouts, and 11' curved pieces of EZ-Track, have been sold, does not automatically prove that " Some people must be having success" with them. Many people buy Bachmann train sets because these sets are heavily advertised, and readily available. In most cases these consumers don't know anything about the problems that many buyers have had with Bachmann turnouts, or the long history of low quality products from Bachmann over the years. 
Bachmann train sets come with Bachmann EZ-Track included in the set. When the owners of these train sets want to expand their layouts, they buy turnouts, and extra track sections, in the form of Bachmann EZ-Track, because it will fit with the track they already have. Once the problems with the Bachmann turnouts show up, the new owners try to fix them, often without lasting success., and then to re-sell them, often with no success, and finally to give them away. Which is likely why you "had gotten many for free." When Bachmann turnouts retail for $20-$30 each, and then someone gives you "many for free" that would tend to make me suspicious of the quality of the item. This doesn't mean that no one has ever had any success with Bachmann EZ-Track, or even Bachmann turnouts. However, it is significant. People don't normally choose to give away anything that is working well for them. I have not seen a whole lot of other brands of turnouts or track, being given away for free. 

Traction Fan


----------



## Mixed Freight (Aug 31, 2019)

*"Has anyone had any success with EZ Track?"*

Yes, dealers that sell it. 

Folks that buy it, not so much.


----------



## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

Roy Smith has created a very nice N scale layout using Kato track.
(1) N-Scale Union Pacific Evanston Subdivision - YouTube


----------



## Chaostrain (Jan 27, 2015)

Mine is working good!


----------



## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

Chaostrain said:


> Mine is working good!


Chaostrain;

I'm glad your Bachmann EZ-Track is working well for you. I have heard that the actual track itself is OK, and presents no special problems. However, what I've heard about the Bachmann EZ-Track turnouts (track switches) has all been very bad. 
May I ask, do you have any of the Bachmann EZ-Track turnouts on your layout, and if you do, how well, or poorly, are they working?

The reason I ask is that I've heard from another member, that Bachmann may have introduced some newer design EZ-Track turnouts with frog numbers on the packaging. (For example, a # 4 turnout, or a # 6 turnout.)

The original Bachmann EZ-Track turnouts have a lousy reputation for causing derailments, and generally poor mechanical reliability. Reportedly the points don't reliably throw all the way over as they should.
All of this is second-hand information from comments made by Bachmann turnout owners who were very dissatisfied.
I would really like to get some more up-to-date information on current production Bachmann EZ-Track turnouts.
If Bachmann has introduced a better turnout, I'd like to hear about it from people who are currently using them.
Are your turnouts newly purchased, or have you had them for several years? Any information would be welcome.

Thanks;

Traction Fan


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

The problems I've seen with the EZ track turnouts (in HO scale), is that the point rails are very short, causing an abrupt sideways jerk when taking the diverging route. Worse, though, is that the points get sloppy very quickly, and either they don't throw all the way, or they actually bounce back and don't stay seated against the stock rails.


----------



## Chaostrain (Jan 27, 2015)

At this point in time I do not have any turnouts.


----------



## tntwolt (Sep 3, 2020)

traction fan said:


> Chaostrain;
> 
> I'm glad your Bachmann EZ-Track is working well for you. I have heard that the actual track itself is OK, and presents no special problems. However, what I've heard about the Bachmann EZ-Track turnouts (track switches) has all been very bad.
> May I ask, do you have any of the Bachmann EZ-Track turnouts on your layout, and if you do, how well, or poorly, are they working?
> ...


i find that the frogs tend to lift cars with larger rims. a little work with a thin file fixes this. also the guard rails can be too tight, a little sweak with a screwdriver fixed this.


----------



## tntwolt (Sep 3, 2020)

tntwolt said:


> i find that the frogs tend to lift cars with larger rims. a little work with a thin file fixes this. also the guard rails can be too tight, a little sweak with a screwdriver fixed this. in N scale.


----------



## Mixed Freight (Aug 31, 2019)

tntwolt said:


> i find that the frogs tend to lift cars with larger rims. a little work with a thin file fixes this. also the guard rails can be too tight, a little sweak with a screwdriver fixed this.


Frogs lifting cars with larger rims can be a problem in other scales too, that that have wheels with over-sized flanges. It's really just a visual problem, though. It generally doesn't cause derailment problems otherwise, unless combined along with another ailment or two.

On the other hand, I've never seen turnout guardrails in ANY scale that are too tight. I've seen plenty that are too "loose" (i.e., under-gauged).

'Tweaking' your turnouts with a screwdriver by under-gauging your guardrails further in order to accommodate under-gauged wheel sets is basically creating two 'wrongs' in order to make a 'right'.

One word: "NMRA Standards Gauge". (Is that one word?)

But only if you *really* want to find the true problems and cure them, that is.


----------



## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

tntwolt;

The only commercial turnout I have ever found that has "guardrails" (flangeways) "too tight" (to meet the specs. of an NMRA gauge) is the Micro Engineering turnout. It's "flangeways" (the channel between the guard rails and the stock rails) are very slightly too tight to let the flangeways tabs of an NMRA gauge slide through smoothly. A single pass with a Dremel tool, or a little filing, widens them enough to pass the gauge. Every other turnout I've ever dealt with has flangeways that are too wide, rather than too tight.
I don't know about the flangeways on a Bachmann turnout, since I don't use them. It's possible that they are also too tight, as you say, but too tight for what? I agree with Mixed Freight. Using an NMRA gauge is the right way to determine what's "too tight", or "too loose." 

As for wheels with deep flanges being lifted by a frog floor, well, those must be some mighty deep flanges. Normally, wheels tend to drop down into a frog, since the frog floor at the bottom of the frog's flangeway, is too deep, rather than too shallow. What normally happens is that, first the wheel drops down into the frog flangeway, and then it is dragged back up by hitting the frog point. In my early days I made the mistake of filing down the frog point to "fix" this problem. This doesn't really fix anything, and can damage the turnout. The real fix is to add shims to the bottom of the frog flangeway to raise it up to touch the bottom of the NMRA gauge's "flangeways" tab. Then use replacement wheelsets with shallow flanges. It's your railroad, of course, so you can "fix" things however you wish. I have found, by long experience, that using an NMRA gauge as your standard, and adjusting things to match it, works extremely well.

Good Luck & Have Fun;

Traction Fan 🙂


----------



## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

Mixed Freight said:


> *"Has anyone had any success with EZ Track?"*
> 
> Yes, dealers that sell it.
> 
> Folks that buy it, not so much.


A novice fisherman walks into the fishing department of the local sporting goods store and gazes at 30 feet of isle space allotted to fishing lures. He asks the salesman why are there so many different lures for catching only a handful of different species of fish?

The salesman says, "Fishing lures aren't designed to catch fish, they're designed to catch fisherman."


----------

