# Thouhgt I would share my plan



## cars4fun2001 (Jan 14, 2009)

I have wanted to do this for a while. In my research I came across this site along with many others. The people here seams so much nicer then on some other sites so this is where I joined. 

My plan is to model the M. K. T. Railroad (Missouri, Kansas and Texas Railway) through out my house. The track is going to start in my shop and then go along the wall at door top height. There will be transitions between rooms with tunnels. In the corners of the rooms there will be a roughly 4.5' triangle that will hold a town seen. I plan on modeling it after 1900-1930 era. 

here are some of the pages I will use for reference 

http://www.kansasheritage.org/research/rr/katy.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Missouri-Kansas-Texas_Railroad#Livery_paint_schemes

http://www.katyrailroad.org/photoarc.htm

I am sure I will have questions along the way and this is where I will post all my progress. 


Mike


----------



## tw001_tw (Jul 24, 2008)

Hey, I think thats a great idea! Mostly because I live in St. Louis,
and I'm a bit familiar with the Katy Trail (which at one time was the 
Katy rail line). I recognized most of the towns
on the first link (at least those towns in Missouri). Now don't
get me wrong, I'm only telling you what I see now-a-days, not
what went on back in the day, but there are a bunch of small
towns along the Katy trail, I'm surprised to see the list of
stations so short (comparatively). 

http://www.mapquest.com/maps?cat=&a...zip=#a/maps/m::10:38.71675:-91.43864:0:::::/e

the link above shows just north of Hermann (nice German 
winery town) - McKittrick and a station. If you follow 94 west,
you are pretty much following the Katy trail. If you switch to
'aerial map', and zoom in, you could follow the trail either way.

Anyway, enough of my rambling, and onward to your layout.
I'd love to see your progress.
-tw


----------



## cars4fun2001 (Jan 14, 2009)

Thanks for the response. The Katy is a big deal around here. There are 2 museums with in 70 miles dedicated to it. The closest one has one of the old trains. I dont know about the other but would bet it also does as it is larger. My idea is to try and model the towns along the route. If the town supplied coal then there will be coal mine and loading station. So on and so on.

I have been putting together my list of supply's. 
My main line is 115' around the living room kitchen and down the hall. Plus the spur line in each town setting and a few side track's along the way adds up to a lot of track.

I am planing on using Atlas Super-Flex Nickel Silver 36" track. The best price I have found so far is here http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/product_p/atl-16825.htm


For a controler I was looking at this one
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/product_p/500-ag950.htm

I am torn a bit between what to use for road bed. Is cork better or would I be better with this type http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/product_p/woo-st1474.htm I am leaning towards the latter. 

Let me know if you see a problem with my choices of supply's. 


thanks Mike


----------



## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

Hi Mike,

I like your choses. Anytime that I replace track, that's what I use. I have MRCs on my layout. The momentum and brake switches are cool. Post some pic. as the work gets going.

John


----------



## stationmaster (Dec 7, 2008)

Use cork as a roadbed. You will be much more satisfied with it. I have used both.


----------



## tw001_tw (Jul 24, 2008)

cars4fun2001, unfortunate, I'm only familiar with the Katy
trail as far as my half of the state goes. But good for you there
are 2 museums close by - that should make your work easier.

I have the power command 9000, and it does great - but listen
to the pros, they know way more then I do. And as Southern
mentioned, post some progress pics


----------



## stationmaster (Dec 7, 2008)

I also think I would go DCC from the get go. It seems as though the layout will be complicated and extensive. DCC is the best way to go.

Just my $.02.


----------



## cars4fun2001 (Jan 14, 2009)

stationmaster thanks for the advise on the road bead. I have yet to see what the other is made of. Is it some type of foam or rubber?

Glad to know the MRC's are good controller's. I have a few of there chargers for rc trucks and planes and they have been among my favorite. 

I will post photo's as the work go's along. It want be fast my first goal is to get the main track down and test it out. 


Mike


----------



## cars4fun2001 (Jan 14, 2009)

Sorry I missed your last reply. I was reading all the reply's and got bussy doing other things. Didn't see it tell after I posted.

I thought about going with dcc and still may. I have been doing a lot of reading on it. My concern is running non dcc loco's and the track. I have read that it can burn out the motor.


----------



## stationmaster (Dec 7, 2008)

cars4fun2001 said:


> Sorry I missed your last reply. I was reading all the reply's and got bussy doing other things. Didn't see it tell after I posted.
> 
> I thought about going with dcc and still may. I have been doing a lot of reading on it. My concern is running non dcc loco's and the track. I have read that it can burn out the motor.


Yes, the other roadbed is foam.

DCC will not hurt your motors if properly installed. That's a big farce passed along by those that do not follow directions. Can it happen? Yes. But, not if the decoder is installed properly and the motor isolated.


----------



## cars4fun2001 (Jan 14, 2009)

that is very good to know. Thank you. I have know problem with small electronics. From my understanding you can run a single none dcc engine with out a decoder with the Bachmann E-Z Command DCC Controller. Is this right?. Also why are some of the engines listed as dcc ready with 9 pin plug and some say 8 pin plug.


----------



## stationmaster (Dec 7, 2008)

I'm not familiar with Bachman's system. My Digitrax allows for one analog engine. I would imagine that most DCC systems are similar. 

And if I were to add the decoders, I would add the ones with the plug. Frying a decoder, though not a regular thing, happens. By using the plug type, you just get another decoder and plug it in. After troubleshooting the reason first, of course. I have fried them for no apparent reason and also found a problem that needed attention(motor some how became un-isolated) or an insufficient ground.

If you run your stock with any regularity, maintenance should be a part of the routine.


----------



## cars4fun2001 (Jan 14, 2009)

Been working on the main line lay out. This is the track the will go around the living room, kitchen, and down the hall. 

There will be approximately 115' of track on this line not counting ay of the side tracks.










The track on the right hand side that goes up and down in the pic will be inside the sheet rock drop down above the kitchen cabinets. There will be a 45" tunnel then a 36" bridge above the sink back into a 20" tunnel. It will turn out and then run on the out side of the wall.


----------



## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

I wish I Could run trains throuh my house. the Rail Road tycoon has me locked in the man cave.

It's not bad in here.

John


----------



## B.C.RAIL (Sep 1, 2008)

LOL, my man cave is quite cozy.  :laugh:


----------



## cars4fun2001 (Jan 14, 2009)

I wanted to do this in my old house but never did. I guess I am lucky when it comes to the wife. She thinks it is a great idea. I have been looking at different software on the web. I would like to find one that will tell me the number of pieces of tracks I need to run the route. I guess it is time to brake out the paper pencil and tape measure.


----------



## stationmaster (Dec 7, 2008)

A question. What happens when the train decides to derail? 
A.) it's a LONG way to the floor 
B.) not good unless one is 7-feet tall and see to rerail the train
C.) uh oh....


Bob


----------



## DavidH (Jan 20, 2009)

Hi cars4fun2001,

Looking at your track plan, I'm quite sure you're using Anyrail.
If you need a list of materials (as you say), Go to the 'View' menu and select 'List of materials'. It'll show you a list of all elements, and track length.

David (AnyRail)


----------



## cars4fun2001 (Jan 14, 2009)

Bob I have thought about that. I have no dought that there will be derails. I hope to build it in a way that the train does not fall to the floor. I am not 7 foot tall so in that case I will need the step stool to put it back on the track. If it does happen and the train falls down to the floor I guess I will just have to live with the results. I have been reading all the causes of derail that I can find in hopes to prevent this from being a common acarance. 


David thanks for the info. I just downloaded it so I am still learning how to use it.

Mike


----------



## Boston&Maine (Dec 19, 2007)

You could always rig up some sort of safety net that ran along side the track... I do not know how that would look though :dunno:


----------



## B.C.RAIL (Sep 1, 2008)

Some model railroad clubs use clear plastic that runs along the table or ledge..


----------



## cars4fun2001 (Jan 14, 2009)

thats a pretty good idea. could use some thin lexan.


----------



## Don Chovanec (Jan 13, 2009)

Just a small tidbit, while looking around at "Michael's" (its an arts and crafts kinda place but has a tiny bit of trains stuff I found some 12"X12" cork tile squares. It the same size as cork or foam but allows for a lot of creativity along the way. I am only using it where I might need bigger pieces. I had a lot of trying to jigsaw the little pieces on switches and such this is better. At least I think so. I have used lots of cork, after a while it tends to dry out and starts flaking sometime. I bought some foam roadbed to see how it lasts but I not to fond of the color "Black". Am I running on a roadbed of tar? Hopefully when it's layed and graveled it will blend in.


----------



## stationmaster (Dec 7, 2008)

Don Chovanec said:


> Just a small tidbit, while looking around at "Michael's" (its an arts and crafts kinda place but has a tiny bit of trains stuff I found some 12"X12" cork tile squares. It the same size as cork or foam but allows for a lot of creativity along the way. I am only using it where I might need bigger pieces. I had a lot of trying to jigsaw the little pieces on switches and such this is better. At least I think so. I have used lots of cork, after a while it tends to dry out and starts flaking sometime. I bought some foam roadbed to see how it lasts but I not to fond of the color "Black". Am I running on a roadbed of tar? Hopefully when it's layed and graveled it will blend in.


I think you will grow to hate the foam road bed. I tried it and absolutely hated it. Tore down the module and re-vamped it using cork road bed. The foam stuff soaked up my glue/water mix for the ballast. It's supposed top be a closed foam, it's not.


----------



## winnbear (Dec 23, 2011)

what a cool project to do! I grew up with the old katy here in Oklahoma. In fact, Wagoner is listed as one of the stops. Keep sending pics as you progress through it.


----------



## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

um... Hi Winn... Did you notice that this post is dead for almost 3 years? Welcome to the forum, and try to stick with the relevant threads if you are really interested in the forums. We have been getting alot of spammers and this is a good way to be flagged as one. Not mad at you or anything just letting ya know

Massey


----------

