# TINY WIRES



## dd1228 (Jan 26, 2015)

I have been in model railroading for 65 years, so I should know it all by now.(ha ha) But I don't know how to connect those tiny tiny wires from N scale accessories, such as LED crossbucks to any power source. Is there some sort of connector for such tiny wires? I wouldn't even know how to solder such things. HELP!


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## jargonlet (Dec 21, 2011)

I'm not sure what the proper way to do it is but I like to strip or in this case shave the insulation back a bit. I then take the end of it and hold it onto the bigger wire and wrap it around it. I then use liquid flux when I solder it. I hope this helps.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

One of the difficulties using those tiny wires is stripping
the insulation. I simply use the BARREL of my hot
soldering iron and press it against the end of the wire
burning off the insulation. Then apply resin flux and
tin the bare wire. I also tin the contact it is to go on.
Then carry a drop of solder on the iron tip to the
connection that I hold in place with small clamps.

There may be commercially available connectors for
those wires but solder seems the easiest to me.

Don


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## higgsbosonman (Nov 17, 2014)

If the accessories don't use very much power, you could try using conductive glue (sometimes called wire glue) to attach the tiny wires to bigger wires, which you could then solder. This glue is usually somewhat brittle once dry and has a high resistance (an ohm or two, I believe), so it is best used on low-amperage circuits to prevent a voltage drop. It also takes a while to dry. I have never used the stuff, so I cannot say how good it is. I just know it is out there.

You could also use terminal strips, which are the strips with a screw-type connector on each end. As long as the wire is clamped under the screw, you are good. No soldering required. They come in various sizes. This would allow you to connect it up to a bigger set of wires that are easier to work with.


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## dd1228 (Jan 26, 2015)

Thanks for the replies everyone. I guess I'll just have to buckle down and get to work and try those tips. At times like these I wish I were working in O scale!


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## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*electrical terminals*

You might want to try a small terminal block from radio shack or a hardware store.
good luck with your electrical connections:hahlus(+);minus
(-);nuetral(green) Regards,tr1


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## Never Get Old (Apr 16, 2016)

dd1228 said:


> Thanks for the replies everyone. I guess I'll just have to buckle down and get to work and try those tips. At times like these I wish I were working in O scale!


The older I get, the more I wish that I had room for trains larger than N scale. I would love to try Z scale, but I can barely handle the small size of N.

When soldering these tiny wires, whoever said that the most important part of the job is stripping the wire was correct. I also use these tiny wires in radio controlled aircraft, so I have to work with them there too. Strip very carefully. I like to lay them down on a flat surface under a magnifier and slowly draw a razor blade across them parallel to the copper strands. You have to be very careful because there isn't any room for error. Once you have the insulation off, tin the exposed copper wire with solder. That makes it stronger, easier to see, and much easier to work with. To join two wires, I lay them along side each other, touching, on a glass surface. I have a small piece of glass just for this. I use masking tape to hold the wires exactly where I want them. Then a quick touch with the soldering iron joins the two tinned wires almost immediately. Slide heat shrink over th joint and shrink it with a lighter. It will last a lifetime.

Never Get Old


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## dd1228 (Jan 26, 2015)

Thanks for the replies. I too had trouble stripping the small wires. Will try all your suggestions and see which works best for me!


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Tiny connections*



dd1228 said:


> I have been in model railroading for 65 years, so I should know it all by now.(ha ha) But I don't know how to connect those tiny tiny wires from N scale accessories, such as LED crossbucks to any power source. Is there some sort of connector for such tiny wires? I wouldn't even know how to solder such things. HELP!


dd1228;

There are mini plug and jack connectors available, but they're not cheap. Most common use is connecting wires from shell to chaises, inside a locomotive. Soldering is a basic and very necessary skill for model railroading. There are online videos and books that explain how. Once you know how to solder, you can make your own terminal strips from brass brads driven part way into a piece of wood. Another form is a strip of PC(printed circuit) board with insulating slots cut in the copper cladding between individual terminals. The cuts can be made with a Dremel tool, or razor saw. Surplus 9 or 15 pin computer connectors are another handy item. I use them in my lighted structures. The other half of each connector is attached to the structure's site on the layout. 
Since you're a new N scale modeler, I'd like to recommend an excellent book. The title is "N scale railroading. Getting started in the hobby". It's written by Marty McGuirk, and published by Kalmbach. www.kalmbach.com . This book covers a lot of subjects, in simple form. Planning, benchwork, track, wiring, locomotives, rolling stock, couplers, structures and scenery; are all covered.

Regards from a fellow Geezer and N scaler!

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

You can splice up to 3 wires with these. No need to strip the insulation.

https://www.radioshack.com/products/phone-wire-splice-connector?variant=5717879749


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## Bwells (Mar 30, 2014)

The above mentioned connectors are good for 19 to 26 gauge solid conductors. 26 gauge is iffy but in no way use these for stranded as they will cut the outside wires and create a high resistance open. DonR has the best solution in post number three.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Stripping insulation*



dd1228 said:


> Thanks for the replies. I too had trouble stripping the small wires. Will try all your suggestions and see which works best for me!


dd1228;

For stripping tiny wires, I like Don R's idea of using heat to melt them. Rather than use a soldering iron, I use one of those stick type propane lighters made for lighting a charcoal grill. They will burn, rather than melt, the insulation; so there's less mess from melted plastic. Three will be a super thin residue of soot on the wire. This wipes off easily with 600 grit emery cloth/sandpaper; whetted with alcohol.
These lighters are also great for melting shrink tube. When joining two wires end-to-end, I use tiny, hobby needle nose pliers,(Xuron brand) under my Optivisor magnifier, to make open hooks in both wires. I hook the wires to each other, close the hooks with pliers, and solder the joint, then heat shrink it. This makes a very strong joint. If you join a tiny wire to a larger one, then things get easier to see, and work with;hwell: from there on.

Traction Fan


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## Overkast (Jan 16, 2015)

I am nowhere near LEDs in this stage of my layout build, but I plan to be one day down the road. Do you use the same soldering iron on these thin wires as you do for soldering rail feeders, or do you have to use a special smaller circuit board type of soldering iron? Ideal iron wattage?


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Solder iron*



Overkast said:


> I am nowhere near LEDs in this stage of my layout build, but I plan to be one day down the road. Do you use the same soldering iron on these thin wires as you do for soldering rail feeders, or do you have to use a special smaller circuit board type of soldering iron? Ideal iron wattage?


Overkast:

A 30 watt iron works for both. Just use heat sinks when soldering LEDs, or drop wires to plastic tie track.

Traction Fan


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## Overkast (Jan 16, 2015)

Thanks traction fan!


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## Wally Taylor (Jun 17, 2016)

I am new at soldering these fine wires to the track. Yesterday I had a heck of a time with no success due to a worthless old soldering gun and shaky old hands. All I managed to do is melt a lot of plastic railroad ties.
Today, I went to the hardware store and spent $25 on a Bernz-O Matic Butane Soldering iron ( plenty of heat FAST, and no cord to drag around ). Then, I took a small, heavy board and drilled a few holes just the right size to super glue a few alligator clips into the board. I stripped the end of the wire with a new, sharp single-edge razor blade. I twisted the wire, clipped it with the alligator clip, dipped it in runny resin flux, and easily tinned the wire with that nice gas soldering torch. Then I clipped a track commector in the alligator clip, put a dab of flux on the bottom, and soldered the wire to the track connector. So, in essence I made my own wired terminal joiner, and with ZERO melted plastic put power to both rails cleanly and easily. I can't say enough about the butane soldering torch. SO much easier and quicker due to the quickly adjustable temperature control, and no cord holding me back. Also, having the mounted alligator clip makes a very nice vice for these small objects.
I went from messy failure yesterday to complete success for $25 and a little Yankee ingenuity. You can do it! Just make Yourself some terminal joiners instead of trying to solder a few thousandths of an inch away from plastic that burns away in seconds.
Atlas gets $4 for a pair of Code 80 Terminal Joiners, and You can make Your own for about a nickel depending upon wire length, and shipping costs go from $7 to ZERO!
You can do it. Just choose a foolproof method, a great soldering torch, and a workspace with mounted alligator clips. Plus, the large can of butane should be enough to make a few hundred Terminal Rail Joiners. Good Luck!


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

You might find a 'third hand' device would help for holding the wires. There are quite a few on the market.


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## Wally Taylor (Jun 17, 2016)

Cycleops said:


> You might find a 'third hand' device would help for holding the wires. There are quite a few on the market.


I'm definitely getting one of those! I just made my own so that I could get the train to my neighbor boy this weekend. That looks great with the magnifier!


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Soldering*



Wally Taylor said:


> I am new at soldering these fine wires to the track. Yesterday I had a heck of a time with no success due to a worthless old soldering gun and shaky old hands. All I managed to do is melt a lot of plastic railroad ties.
> Today, I went to the hardware store and spent $25 on a Bernz-O Matic Butane Soldering iron ( plenty of heat FAST, and no cord to drag around ). Then, I took a small, heavy board and drilled a few holes just the right size to super glue a few alligator clips into the board. I stripped the end of the wire with a new, sharp single-edge razor blade. I twisted the wire, clipped it with the alligator clip, dipped it in runny resin flux, and easily tinned the wire with that nice gas soldering torch. Then I clipped a track commector in the alligator clip, put a dab of flux on the bottom, and soldered the wire to the track connector. So, in essence I made my own wired terminal joiner, and with ZERO melted plastic put power to both rails cleanly and easily. I can't say enough about the butane soldering torch. SO much easier and quicker due to the quickly adjustable temperature control, and no cord holding me back. Also, having the mounted alligator clip makes a very nice vice for these small objects.
> I went from messy failure yesterday to complete success for $25 and a little Yankee ingenuity. You can do it! Just make Yourself some terminal joiners instead of trying to solder a few thousandths of an inch away from plastic that burns away in seconds.
> Atlas gets $4 for a pair of Code 80 Terminal Joiners, and You can make Your own for about a nickel depending upon wire length, and shipping costs go from $7 to ZERO!
> You can do it. Just choose a foolproof method, a great soldering torch, and a workspace with mounted alligator clips. Plus, the large can of butane should be enough to make a few hundred Terminal Rail Joiners. Good Luck!


Wally;
First of all I'm glad to hear that you found a way to work around your problem with the tiny wires! Congratulations. I also find it heartening that someone (namely you!) finally found a "cordless" soldering iron that actually produces enough heat to melt solder! I've had several battery-powered models that didn't. They spent more time on the charger, (about every time I attempted to solder anything) than they did soldering. Those terminal rail joiners I see advertised are convenient, but can have a downside. Rail joiners (I.M.O.) are for holding rails in physical alignment. I don't rely on them to carry electricity. They can, of course, but sooner or later one gets too loose, or too corroded, to conduct well. Since you made so many, I guess you won't be relying on one pair to power your track. Its unlikely that several joiners will all go bad simultaneously. Again congrats. Always good to hear a success story, and get a useful tip. May I suggest you add it to the "Need all your tips, how to's, Etc." sticky thread. That way many modelers will get the benefit of your smart solution. 

Regards 

Traction Fan

PS. I too have dealt with some rather small stuff in this hobby. Check out the interior I built for this interlocking tower.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Holding small wires*



Wally Taylor said:


> I'm definitely getting one of those! I just made my own so that I could get the train to my neighbor boy this weekend. That looks great with the magnifier!


 Wally;

The "third hand" tool ( www.harborfreighttools.com ) shown in Cycleop's post, is a handy tool. Depending on how small the wire, or other part, you want to clamp in it; you may need a modification. The full-size alligator clips on the tool will hold many things, but not all. If you glue some shaped wood inside each set of jaws, projecting beyond the teeth, it will hold even the smallest wire/part. Other ways to accomplish this would be to file off the teeth and super glue a piece of rubber band to each jaw. The alligator clip's jaws can also be flattened to hold smaller stuff with the flat surfaces. At one time, Radio Shack sold some super small alligator clips with tiny flat jaws. I have some and they make great clamps, for tiny parts, and heat sinks for soldering. By the way, most all soldering GUNS put out way to much heat for soldering wires to plastic-tied track. I know you have a gas powered iron that works well for you. If you ever had to go back to electrically-powered soldering; a 25-30 watt pencil-type, soldering IRON would be better than the gun. Heat sinks, (alligator clips are excellent heat sinks) clamped to the rail on either side of the solder area, will keep the ties from melting.

Traction Fan


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## Wally Taylor (Jun 17, 2016)

traction fan said:


> Wally;
> 
> The "third hand" tool ( www.harborfreighttools.com ) shown in Cycleop's post, is a handy tool. Depending on how small the wire, or other part, you want to clamp in it; you may need a modification. The full-size alligator clips on the tool will hold many things, but not all. If you glue some shaped wood inside each set of jaws, projecting beyond the teeth, it will hold even the smallest wire/part. Other ways to accomplish this would be to file off the teeth and super glue a piece of rubber band to each jaw. The alligator clip's jaws can also be flattened to hold smaller stuff with the flat surfaces. At one time, Radio Shack sold some super small alligator clips with tiny flat jaws. I have some and they make great clamps, for tiny parts, and heat sinks for soldering. By the way, most all soldering GUNS put out way to much heat for soldering wires to plastic-tied track. I know you have a gas powered iron that works well for you. If you ever had to go back to electrically-powered soldering; a 25-30 watt pencil-type, soldering IRON would be better than the gun. Heat sinks, (alligator clips are excellent heat sinks) clamped to the rail on either side of the solder area, will keep the ties from melting.
> 
> Traction Fan


Thank You for sharing Your know-how Traction Fan. I have a long way to go before I know ANYTHING. One thing that I love about the butane soldering iron is the tip. It gathers some very useful solder about a quarter inch back from the tip. For tinning the wire, I just shape the wire end, dip it into the flux, and just wipe the extra solder on the tip, and it just packs the wire with the most beautiful silver tinning.The previous day, I was struggling to get my 50 year old underpowered soldering iron hot enough just to tin the wire. The next day, with the butane, I thought I was in Heaven. There is nothing better than having a tool that works as designed.
If You have any sage wisdom to share, You are always welcome to share it with me. One thing that I am far from being is good at ANYTHING, about laying out and securing a layout.
If You find ANYTHING that makes your work easier and cleaner, please drop me a line. Any wisdom is gladly received right here! Your Friend, Wally


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## dwagn (Mar 21, 2016)

Has anyone tried using the new paste / glue type solder that does not use heat?

Only drawback I can tell is that it takes a while to set and is not quite as conductive as traditional solder


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*A good starter book*



Wally Taylor said:


> Thank You for sharing Your know-how Traction Fan. I have a long way to go before I know ANYTHING. One thing that I love about the butane soldering iron is the tip. It gathers some very useful solder about a quarter inch back from the tip. For tinning the wire, I just shape the wire end, dip it into the flux, and just wipe the extra solder on the tip, and it just packs the wire with the most beautiful silver tinning.The previous day, I was struggling to get my 50 year old underpowered soldering iron hot enough just to tin the wire. The next day, with the butane, I thought I was in Heaven. There is nothing better than having a tool that works as designed.
> If You have any sage wisdom to share, You are always welcome to share it with me. One thing that I am far from being is good at ANYTHING, about laying out and securing a layout.
> If You find ANYTHING that makes your work easier and cleaner, please drop me a line. Any wisdom is gladly received right here! Your Friend, Wally


 Wally;

First of all, I think you're being a bit too hard on yourself. Each person knows something (with the likely exception of a couple of current presidential candidates! :laugh You just solved your tiny wire tinting problem. That certainly qualifies as knowing something. 
To learn more about this hobby, or just about anything else, we need to do a little research to get started. May I recommend a good book to you?
It is titled "Getting started in the model railroading" author is Jeff Wilson, and the publisher is Kalmbach Co., the folks who publish Model Railroader magazine. https://kalmbachhobbystore.com/products/books  .
Short, illustrated, chapters cover: Planning, Benchwork, Track, Wiring (both DC and DCC), Locomotives, Cars, Couplers, Structures, and Scenery. Note: this is a newer book than the one I used to recommend. "N-scale Railroading,getting started in the hobby" by Marty McGuirk. That circa 2009 book is no longer shown on Kalmbach's site. I assume it's out of print. I have not yet read the newer version, but the chapters listed for it seem to cover the same subjects as the earlier book. Kalmbach books on model railroading are very good, and I think this one will help you.

Regards;:smilie_daumenpos:
Traction Fan


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Book Update*



traction fan said:


> Wally;
> 
> First of all, I think you're being a bit too hard on yourself. Each person knows something (with the likely exception of a couple of current presidential candidates! :laugh You just solved your tiny wire tinting problem. That certainly qualifies as knowing something.
> To learn more about this hobby, or just about anything else, we need to do a little research to get started. May I recommend a good book to you?
> ...


 Wally;

Yesterday I picked up a copy of "Getting started in model railroading", by Jeff Wilson at my local train store. Read most of it and have to say it's very good; in some ways better than my earlier recommended "starter book". I think it would be a great help to you and other new modelers. :thumbsup:

Regards; 
Traction Fan


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