# Royal Blue set



## Green3

The usual story... This was my Gandads then my dads now mine. I am really not into the trains but do have "some" sentimental attachments to this simply based on whos it was and the history behind it. I have no idea of any value but would like to keep it together and not see it simply parted out. I'm sure you guys that rebuild these things could do it justice. It's just beyond my interest and skill level. I would rather make it available to people that appreciate this sort of thing.


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## flyernut

The cars are the very common type, it the condition they're in, probably $10 bucks apiece. The switches, or turnouts, untested, around $25 bucks, or a little more.Transformer and lights, probably another $40 bucks.The engine is the most desirable piece of the lot, and I can't put a decent price on it. I don't have one, and have never bought one, so I'm at a lost here. Maybe some of the other more knowledgeable guys here will chime in..A very wild guess would be around $60 bucks???? If I offended you with any of my prices, I do indeed apologize to you; that wasn't my intention. Just trying to ballpark the lot...


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## Green3

*Reply*

Absolutely no offense taken. Part of me would love to have it restored to working order but, price is always a concern. Thank you for responding.


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## DonR

The first thing to do is see if it runs. My guess is that it probably
will, but maybe fitfully due to accumulated gunk in the locos
electrical components.

Set up a simple circle or oval of track, connect the transformer
and try the loco and tender. You may want to use a Qtip with alcohol to
first clean the wheel treads of the loco and the tender. I'm not
familiar with that loco but often the reverse unit is in
the tender and the tender wheels pick up power from the
track.

If you are the least bit handy with tools it would be a simple
matter to uncover the motor and the reverse unit.
Use a contact cleaner to remove any gunk from the motor's
commutator and brushes. Careful don't lose the springs.
Do the same with the electrical contactors on the reverse unit.
On the loco that you have, the reverse unit will operate
when the track power is turned off then turned back on.
Each time that occurs the loco will go the other way.

The track appears to be in very good condition. Simply
wiping it down with an alcohol dampened cloth should
be sufficient.

Don


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## Green3

*Reply*

Yeah I thought about doing that out of curiosity but, the cords (all of them) sound like dry leaves crunching when you even touch them. If I couldn't pay someone to restore the set to working order I would simply just sell it.


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## flyernut

Green3 said:


> Yeah I thought about doing that out of curiosity but, the cords (all of them) sound like dry leaves crunching when you even touch them. If I couldn't pay someone to restore the set to working order I would simply just sell it.


There are several of us here on the forum who would probably do the work for you.. I would gladly do it for you for the cost of shipping, and parts.. No labor charge whatsoever.. These trains were your grandpa's, then your Dad's, and now yours.. Keep them in the family!! I can rebuild the switches for you, do the loco and tender, and get them running. I've done a few Royal Blues in the past, and they are nice little engines..Nuttinbutflyer will eventually stop in here, and add his 2 cents also..But please, consider keeping them.. These little trains are bullet-proof, and they will last you another 50-60 years with the proper care..Again, I offer my services....I still have my Dad's original Lionel train from 1927, in the original boxes, and still purring like a kitten.. It's going to be handed down to one of my 3 kids....As well as 99% of my train collection.


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## flyernut

There's a set just like yours on ebay.. $75 bucks, no bids, with 4 days to go..


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## Green3

*Rebuild*

I would be thrilled to have you look this over. Send me a PM with your shipping info and i will box it all up. Keep in mind, I believe this is in need of a serious if not major overhaul. I dont want anything repainted just working would be sufficient. Then I would keep it.


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## flyernut

Green3 said:


> I would be thrilled to have you look this over. Send me a PM with your shipping info and i will box it all up. Keep in mind, I believe this is in need of a serious if not major overhaul. I dont want anything repainted just working would be sufficient. Then I would keep it.


Nothing re-painted, just get everything in good working order. That we can do my friend..As long as there's nothing missing, I can/will do it for the shipping costs. I'll send you a PM.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Let me know if there's anything I can offer, labor or parts. If we're talking a set of brushes, springs and fingers, they are yours for free. I got plenty on hand. I too would rather see this remain "in the family". They really are not hard at all to tinker with and fix.


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## Green3

*Kindness*

You guys are way too kind. I can not even express how good this makes me feel. I am actually headed to the post office now to send this. Will be back after while with tracking info.


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## flyernut

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> Let me know if there's anything I can offer, labor or parts. If we're talking a set of brushes, springs and fingers, they are yours for free. I got plenty on hand. I too would rather see this remain "in the family". They really are not hard at all to tinker with and fix.


I've been waiting for ya....


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## Nuttin But Flyer

I'm here, lurking in the shadows....gimme a shout when you need something. Meanwhile I'll look for a 2-connector jackplate for you.


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## Green3

*Here is what got this all started.*

Found this picture of my Great Grand dad. That got the conversation going about the Flyer set and well, the rest is all in the posts...LOL 

I know it's not the Flyer but still a cool piece of the IC history.


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## AmFlyer

That article is truly special.


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## Aflyer

That is an awesome article, great piece of history, and up close and personal.

Thank you for sharing,

Aflyer


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## flyernut

What a wonderful piece of history for your family..My grandpa played semi-pro football in PA, leather helmets and all. He was also a PA State Trooper, a town constable, and a "coal cop".


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## Nuttin But Flyer

I have one 2-connector fiber jackplate, used. You're welcome to it. I need to get more anyway so this will force me to act. Any other parts you need? PM your address, thought I had it, but not to be....


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## flyernut

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> I have one 2-connector fiber jackplate, used. You're welcome to it. I need to get more anyway so this will force me to act. Any other parts you need? PM your address, thought I had it, but not to be....


You're too kind dude..One thing I noticed is that the 2-prong panel on a 350 is different than a 2-prong panel from, say, a 300. I didn't know this either, but as I compared the Royal Blue cab to the 300 cab, the panel is indeed smaller than the 300..My Gilbert parts book also lists 2 different panels and part #'s for the 2-prong. Will PM you.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Now I'm not so sure. I only have the one and do not know if it's from a 300 or not....


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## Nuttin But Flyer

I was just looking over Port Lines parts list, Im pretty sure mine is from an old Atlantic or other steamer. Best that you order a new one....sorry, I was unaware they are different.

In other news, coincidentally, I'm helping a new guy on the Facebook page repair his Father's Royal Blue. I did the same as you and offered to service for him, but he wants to learn. So give him credit for biting the bullet. I'll be sending him some parts gratis too.


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## 400E Blue Comet

I have a Royal Blue as well, just the locomotive not the whole set. It appears to be a slightly different model, but it looks mostly the same. That news article is amazing, he must've been a great train driver. Of course the first thing you want to do is see if it runs, try finding another American Flyer S Gauge transformer or a Marx transformer (One with a black box and blue throttle) American Flyer S Gauge runs at about 14v, and I see a reverse unit lever on top so it should run on AC. You could also take apart the transformer and put a new cord in, but that will require soldering. Also, if you can find a way to test it, make sure there's two wires between the tender and the engine, I can't quite tell from that photo. It needs one wire for power to enter the train and another for it to go back to the transformer.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Is the original board gone? Can you fabricate a jackplate from some fiberboard?


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## flyernut

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> Is the original board gone? Can you fabricate a jackplate from some fiberboard?


Someone was in there before me, and the original is long gone. What they did was to use a 4 prong jack panel and plug,cut it down a little at the ends, and used just the 2 outside holes for the wires. If I couldn't find one, I was going to do the same thing, but I'm holding off for awhile as I haven't got to the loco yet. I'm saving that one for last.Just getting parts together. RFG has one on ebay, but I don't think it's the correct one, and besides, they want $15 bucks plus shipping for it. Not on my watch!!


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## AmFlyer

Thinking about this, with a Royal Blue there is rarely any reason to separate the tender from the engine. You could just direct wire it without the jack panel.


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## flyernut

AmFlyer said:


> Thinking about this, with a Royal Blue there is rarely any reason to separate the tender from the engine. You could just direct wire it without the jack panel.


I'm trying to get this one as original as possible for Rusty. I may just stay with the 4 prong panel and jack, and just use 2 wires. It's also easier to ship when you sepaprate the loco/tender.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

flyernut said:


> Someone was in there before me, and the original is long gone. What they did was to use a 4 prong jack panel and plug,cut it down a little at the ends, and used just the 2 outside holes for the wires. If I couldn't find one, I was going to do the same thing, but I'm holding off for awhile as I haven't got to the loco yet. I'm saving that one for last.Just getting parts together. RFG has one on ebay, but I don't think it's the correct one, and besides, they want $15 bucks plus shipping for it. Not on my watch!!


Cheez-O-Whiz, don't buy from that nut....if you do decide to buy one, get it from Doug. It will be cheaper and you'll get it before July.

I have my Royal Blues packed away so I cannot look at one to see what you are up against. If I get the time I'll try to find one and look at it. But I'm sure your capable mind and hands will come up with something. You know, even a cheap 2-connector automotive plug would do the trick until you get a board.


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## AmFlyer

The correct jack panel for the Royal Blue is the XA10335. It is $13.95 at Portlines. The part for the streamlined casting is definitely different than the one used on the 300 etc. engines.


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## flyernut

AmFlyer said:


> The correct jack panel for the Royal Blue is the XA10335. It is $13.95 at Portlines. The part for the streamlined casting is definitely different than the one used on the 300 etc. engines.


Yep, I knew the part #, and figured Doug would have it.I'll try to get a call in tomorrow. Thanks.


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## Aflyer

Hey Nut,
I found this two prong jack panel in my parts box. 

I have no idea if it is the one you need for the Royal blue. I can't see a part number on it, but you are welcome to it if you can use it.

George


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## flyernut

Aflyer said:


> Hey Nut,
> I found this two prong jack panel in my parts box.
> 
> I have no idea if it is the one you need for the Royal blue. I can't see a part number on it, but you are welcome to it if you can use it.
> 
> George


Much appreciated george, but that's the larger version of the panel, probably for a Atlantic. The Royal Blue panel for a 350 is not as wide, and the screw holes are in a different, tighter pattern, and the panel actually has the ends straight. But thanks for looking buddy!:smilie_daumenpos:


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## Aflyer

Loren,
No problem, it's an awesome job you are doing for our members here, and I wanted to offer that jack panel up in case it was the one you needed.

Can't wait to see pictures of the completed set, the switch's and rolling stock look incredible.

George


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## Green3

So here is a dumb question. How funny would it look to use O scale track bed on an S scale track? yea or nay? http://www.ebay.com/itm/WOODLAND-SCENICS-O-SCALE-TRACK-BED-ST1463-35-PIECES-24-LONG-LIONEL-/141808985439?hash=item210479655f:g:4bkAAOSw14xWKXEp


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## flyernut

It would be wider, of course, btu I don't have any experience with it.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

There is a guy who sells S-scale roadbed on eBay. Do not remember his seller name. It is more like foam, not cork. Comes in black and gray, it's beveled on the edges and is flexible to make corners. He offers a piece as a free sample. Try doing a search for it.


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## Green3

I found him and asked for a sample. Thanks


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## flyernut

Here she is, in all her glory...Bench test run was ok, layout run was ok, alone and with all the cars.. No un-coupling. She runs very well, however, she's a "growler". A little noisy but a very nice






runner.. I now have to clean the track, and add a few pieces, plus work on another light and a remote un=coupler, but basically, she's finished.


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## AmFlyer

That set sure came out nice!


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## longle

Well done!


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## flyernut

Thanks all...


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## Aflyer

Flyernut,
Great job, it is looking good. Glad to hear it runs well also, but that's not a surprise given who was working on it.

Once again, a great service you have provided.

George


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Nice work my friend. You should be proud of this accomplishment. A "growler", huh? I haven't met a Royal blue yet that wasn't. Never knew why but they all make that noise.


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## flyernut

I've got it all packed up, and it's ready to go home. I'm pretty sure Rusty is going to like it...Here's something to chew on.. Another member of the forum contacted me via PM, and asked me to fix his Royal Blue!!


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Wasn't me, but if I had to choose, you'd be the guy....

BTW, how did you fix that jackplate issue?


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## flyernut

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> Wasn't me, but if I had to choose, you'd be the guy....
> 
> BTW, how did you fix that jackplate issue?


I actually found the correct one at the Syracuse train show.. The vendor had about 10 2 hole jack panels in a small bag, and I went through them and found the only one that was correct!!! The start of a good day.:smilie_daumenpos:


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Wish I'd have known that, I would have taken the others off your hands....next time you see them, keep me in mind.


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## flyernut

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> Wish I'd have known that, I would have taken the others off your hands....next time you see them, keep me in mind.


I'm going to Batavia NY train show Sunday.. I'll look for you, but at this show, there's usually not many parts to be had...but I'll look for ya.


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