# My take on Acrylic Paints



## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Although I favor enamel primers, I will always favor acrylic finish coats because of their faster dry-times and easy cleanup...

Of the acrylics I've used, there are four favorites for certain reasons.
Depending on whether I'm hand-brushing or air brushing, certain brands and types will do better than others for me.

• Vallejo/MicroLux.
• ModelFlex.
• ModelMaster.
• Tamiya.

These evaluations are based solely on personal experience and observation, and are in no way meant to slight any other choices or favorites.

*Vallejo*
Right off the bat, I'll go out on a limb, and say that the best acrylics on the shelf are Vallejo... hands down.
They hand-brush the best, and _Vallejo/Air_ & _Premium_ airbrush better than any other.
They can easily be thinned, or they spray right out of the bottle without a hitch, and they dry smooth as silk.
That being said, their place in model railroading isn't well chronicled, because their selection is limited mainly to military, aircraft and game colors. You won't find Tuscan Red, Reefer Gray, or Pullman Green.
But for Black, White, Browns, Buffs and Grays, you can't go wrong. It's sold by most online outlets, and in most Hobby Lobby's.

*MicroLux*
MicroMark's _MicroLux_ acrylics are made by Vallejo, and are divided into hand-brush and airbrush categories. A limited selection lists Engine Black, Grime, Roof Brown, Roof Red, Reefer White, RR Tie Brown, and Rust.
I've used the Engine Black and RR Tie Brown, and they're both top notch.

*ModelFlex*
Badger's ModelFlex is a close second. It sprays like a dream right out of the bottle, but doesn't hand-brush as well. Wide ranging railroad color selection.

*ModelMaster*
One of my favorites for _hand-brushing_ is Testors ModelMaster.
Although it doesn't airbrush as well, it goes on nicely with a brush, and dries smooth. Wide ranging railroad color selection.

*Tamiya*
Tamiya is another one of my favorites. Again however, not much of a railroad color selection. They're mostly meant for air-brushing, and they excel at it.
Not that they hand-brush all that poorly, but they're specifically thinned for the airbrush right out of the bottle. I used their Orange to hand-brush the ladder grabs on my 44 ton, and had no issues.
Their sundry online down-loadable color charts are divided between gloss, semi-gloss and flat, by letter designations... somewhat overwhelming if not confusing.
They're available just about everywhere. Because of a single purchase, Amazon is bombarding me with Tamiya ads.

These all dry fairly quickly, adhere very well to lacquer and enamel primers, and render superior coverage.


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## lyrics 51 (Mar 9, 2016)

I used Testors acrylic for some automobiles I bought. They were from China and had some odd blue "racing stripes" on them. Had to use several coats to cover the blue. However the paint dried smooth and even.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

lyrics 51 said:


> ... Had to use several coats to cover the blue. However the paint dried smooth and even.


Sounds like you could've benefited by using a primer first.


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## lyrics 51 (Mar 9, 2016)

Since I'm new to this, what's a good primer to use? It would have saved me a lot of headaches!


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

lyrics 51 said:


> Since I'm new to this, what's a good primer to use? It would have saved me a lot of headaches!


Rather than tie up this thread with a lengthy wordy answer, there's a thread about 8 notches down from here titled "Primers I use... (FWIW)"... where I list seven good primer choices.
I hope it'll help answer your question.


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## lyrics 51 (Mar 9, 2016)

Thanks. Answered a lot of questions.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

lyrics 51 said:


> Thanks. Answered a lot of questions.


Excellent!
Your welcome... That was the goal.  :smilie_daumenpos:


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## Genetk44 (Feb 26, 2016)

Have to agree with you on the Vallejo in general and the Vallejo Model Air in particular, it's my go-to paint.


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## JNXT 7707 (May 5, 2013)

Great post and information as always LS :smilie_daumenpos:
I've used Modelflex exclusively from the start in my airbrush, because I prefer acrylics and I've had excellent results with them. And I like their railroad color selection.
Based on your writeup I would like to give Vallejo a try though.


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## FRED On Board (Jan 2, 2014)

To echo Member JNXT 7707's comment, a great post by Member LateStarter.

I might add that with respect to different applications, I have used ordinary craft acrylic paints available at craft and discount department stores in any number of projects I encounter as a professional finisher and restorer of residential and commercial interiors furniture and artifacts...Additionally, these low-cost paints have been used in a like-manner in my other hobby, restoring antique and more modern radios and test equipment...With an adjustment to viscosity by the addition of plain water, these low-cost products have been brushed, micro-fine rolled or sprayed onto the workpiece objects (without need of a separate medium as primer)...Quickly dried in a number of different temperature and humidity atmospheres they then present themselves within an hour or so for a very light sanding with 600 to 2000 abrasive paper and then topcoating with one or more applications of sprayed on thin-coat clear acrylic lacquer in any of the different lustre gradients (dead flat, flat, satin, semi-gloss, gloss)...The result is not distinguished from that of a fully applied sprayed-on enamel or acrylic lacquer primer and topcoat.

The above described experience has taken place for more than two decades of work (and fun), always successful in achieving the precise appearance I have sought.

FWIW


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## jlc41 (Feb 16, 2016)

LS, I am a bit dence and can not find the primer thread. But I would like to know what you have suggested. Thanks


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

jlc41 said:


> LS, I am a bit dence and can not find the primer thread. But I would like to know what you have suggested. Thanks


A bit? Just joking!:laugh:

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=135001


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## jlc41 (Feb 16, 2016)

Old HoBo, thank you sir. I am just getting into air brushing so this was informative.


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## Deane Johnson (Sep 19, 2016)

Great thread and choice information. I'm having to move to acrylics due to severe allergy to solvent paints, especially Tru-Color with it's Acetone base.

Experimenting around recently, I tried some ModelFlex and was impressed with the way it handled in my airbrush. Didn't seem to clog the nozzle like PollyScale or Model Master Acrylic.

It was good to read your favorable reaction to using ModelFlex. I'll probably use some Vallejo also.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

BTW, Badger's front story has always been their faithful rendition of certain colors, like Tuscan Red, Boxcar Red, and Pullman Green.
SP's paint chart for open hoppers and gondolas lists Boxcar Red as the color... and ModelFlex renders it to a tee. Plus, their rendition of Pullman Green is unrivaled.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

For weathering cars, diesels and structures, Vallejo's ModelAir "Brown-Gray" makes a good color-base for _bottom_ areas before powders or washes are applied.
Spritz it _lightly_ (and randomly) at bottoms, like fuel tanks, pilot steps, brake cylinders, porch fronts, caboose tool & battery boxes, loading docks, basement foundations, etc.
Brush-applied to truck frames before a rust treatment renders a muddy appearance.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I switched to Vallejo right after the Floquil / Polly Scale acquisition by Rustoleum (Testors), and have never looked back. Because most of the painting I do is on military and fantasy miniatures, the lack of dedicated railroad colors doesn't bother me at all.

However, the good folks at Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine (www.model-railroad-hobbyist.com) have cooked up a how-to guide for mixing the old Floquil / Polly Scale railroad colors using most popular brands, including all the ones LS discusses above. It's a free download for subscribers, but since subscribing is free, why not?


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## Genetk44 (Feb 26, 2016)

I second CTV on the Model Railroad Hobbyist mixing guide and their acrylic paint guide. Very worthwhile and helpful.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Bought a few Mission colors to try out...
Excellent stuff!
Sprays like a dream right out of the bottle. Hand-brushes great. No railroad colors that I can find, but their browns, blacks and rusts are very nice.
Four shades of rust.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*Badger Paint Mixer*_...
If you don't have it, get one.

IMO, if you haven't used this, you haven't mixed paint thoroughly.
Takes AA batteries.
Retails for $8 to $15.

Shaking only moves stuff back-and-forth. Stirring swishes stuff around. This mixer actually blends stuff together by force.

PROS: Works better than a paddle type; creates a bottom-upward wave-flow, to pull everything upward, and force a complete mix. Fits all bottles except some AK. With a little modification, it'll fit those too.
CONS: It's not a tank. It's plastic. And if you get distracted, you'll pull it out of the bottle while it's still running... tie-dye shirts might come back in style.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Just bought a 'professional-grade' booth turntable from Great Britain on eBay... for $7.00.
The one I've been using was a plastic cake decorator that finally kicked the bucket.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Are there airbrush recoil-type hoses longer than 10 feet?
If so, where can I find them?


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## Mr.Buchholz (Dec 30, 2011)

I buy two different acrylic brands of paint at Michael's. They work pretty well, and sometimes I mix them with other paints/compounds to make them stronger or richer. I don't like using an alkyd paint because of the clean up factor. Soap and water clean up makes me happy.

-J.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Found two Vallejo Model/Air colors that are railroad-appropriate...
• Caboose Red -- very very close to ModelFlex. Too close to pick.
• Depot Buff -- almost a dead ringer for SP's Colonial Yellow (Tru-Color's C.Y. goes for $5 an ounce).


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## downunda (Jul 23, 2016)

*Acrylics*

I prefer the acrylics for ease of cleaning up. I started out using Tamiya and love the brand as the viscosity is perfect for airbrushing. The small container size available (in Australia) and the limited colour range is a problem sometimes.

I've used Vallejo a few times recently and have been happy with them also.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Highly recommended for mixing or thinning...
Or adding to a paint cup.
Disposable.


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## MikeB (Feb 11, 2016)

It would be nice if this thread and the primer thread could be kept at the top for future reference. Enjoyed both of them.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

LateStarter said:


> Highly recommended for mixing or thinning...
> Or adding to a paint cup.
> Disposable.


Pipettes are an indispensable tool. I just have a jar of soapy water nearby, and as soon as I'm done with the pipette, I stick it in the jar and suck up enough water to cover the paint. That way, the paint doesn't dry in the pipette, and you can reuse them dozens of times. So yeah, they're disposable, but why not stretch your hobby dollars?


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

MikeB said:


> It would be nice if this thread and the primer thread could be kept at the top for future reference. Enjoyed both of them.


I don't disagree, but I'd rather they move to the Painting and Decaling area. More than just HO modelers deserve to benefit from this.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Thinning and mixing rattle-can paints & primers*

_ There may be vids on YouTube about this technique_.

You can thin and mix paints from a rattle-can...

• After a thorough shaking, do a 'flood-spray' into a mixing cup.
• Use a pipette or dropper to add thinner (or color-tone).
• Mix thoroughly (a Badger mixer works best).
• Use a hand-brush, or pour into an airbrush paint cup.

Working quickly is advised with acrylics... most rattle-can acrylics will begin to cure as soon as they're dispensed.

I advise that you use a rag-shield over the mixing cup to do a flood-spray.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

CTValleyRR said:


> ... So yeah, they're disposable, but why not stretch your hobby dollars?


Can't argue with that...
I didn't think of being that frugal with my first batch until I was down to the last few.
Saved my bacon for awhile.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*Turntable*_

One of the best additions to a paint booth is a good turntable.
And the best turntable... is a _turntable_.

With a few modifications, you won't find a better, smoother, rotating disk for spray painting models than an audio turntable (unpowered of course).
Some however, are just too big, even if you strip away the cabinet and chassis.

I've been looking for a child's 'record player' to keep the size down.

I'll find one sooner or later. I've seen them on eBay and at yard sales for $20, which is a bit steep. I'll go $10 with no shipping.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*You can make your own paint chips*_

Sooner or later, you'll accumulate far too many jars and cans of paints to remember how they look dry.
I've made a paint chip file... one for every color on my shelves, as well as ones for _mixed_ colors.

As soon as I get a new color, I paint over a thin 1-inch pre-primed styrene wafer with it, and a Sharpie note on the back.
Whenever I find a good color _blend,_ I create a chip with the mix ratio on the back.

The only hard part is Store Keeping and Warehousing chips to jars and cans, so you can pick up the right one of each without confusion or searching.

I currently only have chips for styrene... None for wood, although sealed and primed wood will generally come out very close.


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## downunda (Jul 23, 2016)

*Error*

That's a great idea that I will "borrow", the chips could easily be stored in a loose leaf folder with clear inserts.


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## JNXT 7707 (May 5, 2013)

LateStarter said:


> _*You can make your own paint chips*_
> 
> Sooner or later, you'll accumulate far too many jars and cans of paints to remember how they look dry.
> I've made a paint chip file... one for every color on my shelves, as well as ones for _mixed_ colors.
> ...


This is an EXCELLENT idea. I've made some chips in the best for special projects, really test chips...but have not followed through and started a catalog of them so to speak. They would be invaluable though because I invariably forget which gray was the one for a certain application and so on. 

Never would have thought of the turntable idea :smilie_daumenpos:


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*About those paint chips*...

Since I DullCote just about everything I paint, I spray every chip with it as well. You'd be surprised at how different some shades of colors or brands can look under DullCote.
If you want to remember how certain weathering powders or washes look over different base coats, a chip would help for that too. But now we're getting into overkill and diminishing returns.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*Paint brush types for acrylics*_

If you've been painting models for any length of time, you likely have a large collection of brushes... in all styles, types, and 'hairs'. A few will end up being favorites, and some you'll hardly ever use.

There are too many different opinions about them, so I'm not going to pretend to give advice with authority.
I'll just relay here what works for _me_.

I favor sable and quality synthetic.
I don't have good luck with camel, ox, or squirrel.

One thing I can recommend _against_ are square or triangular handles... they resist rolling smoothly in your fingers.

It pays to use the finest quality brushes.
However, I'm very aware of folks who buy 89¢ camel hair brushes in Walmart or the bargain bin at Michael's, and are happy with them.

• I usually buy only from local art supply stores. _Blick Art Supply_ is an excellent online sources for brushes.
• In most cases, the best brushes for acrylics are made with Kolinsky Sable, but there are synthetic hairs that are just as good.
• If I buy a long-stem (handle) brush, the first thing I do is snip it off to about 5-inches. How you redress the end is up to you.

There are 8 basic types of bristle configs. Some I've rarely or never used.
• Round
• Pointed Round
• Detail Round
• Flat
• Angular Flat
• Bright
• Filbert
• Fan
Sizes go from #1 upward.
Some come in five minute and sub-minute sizes from Zero ("Oh") down to "Five Oh" or Five Aught... 0, 00, 000, 0000 & 00000.

The ones in my regular arsenal that get the most use are these three (in various sizes):
1.) Round
_Silver Brush, Silverwhite Synthetic.
Da Vinci Top Acryl Synthetic._
2.) Pointed Round
_Escoda Reserva Kolinski/Tajmyr sable._
3.) Filbert
_Loew Cornell American Painter Synthetic._
I only use a Detail Round (synthetic) for the finest work, like lettering gaps in dry transfers.

I rarely use a Flat, or a Bright, and I've only used a Fan in the old days for weathering with chalk powders.
I don't believe I've ever used an Angular Flat.


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## jlc41 (Feb 16, 2016)

Very good assessment on brush types and useage. Thanks for posting.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

I failed to mention...
Keep in mind, that as good as sable hair is, it can be deteriorated by acrylics over time, and that it doesn't like to sit in water very long.
As a rule, a synthetic brush will outlast a sable.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

LateStarter said:


> I failed to mention...
> Keep in mind, that as good as sable hair is, it can be deteriorated by acrylics over time, and that it doesn't like to sit in water very long.
> As a rule, a synthetic brush will outlast a sable.


You shouldn't ever let your brushes sit in water. Rinse them and set them in a holder upright, or just flat on the table (with the bristles off the surface). If you won't be cleaning the brush right away, you need to keep it moist. Change your water as soon as it gets full of paint (if you can't see through it, it's too dirty). Running water is the best, but kind of fiddly. I use a Rinsewell brush sink, plastic tub with a small cup suspended over it, which is refilled by an inverted water bottle. Push a button to change the water. It works very well.

Use a good brush cleaner and conditioner (I use Mona Lisa Pink Soap), and NEVER, EVER fail to clean and condition your brushes after use.

I use red sable and good synthetic brushes. $8-10 a brush is money well spent -- even the red sable lasts for years. And, since I do a lot of miniature painting, I have brushes down to a 20/0, and have another two types you don't mention -- a spotter and a comb. The comb has gaps in the bristles so that it produces a lined effect -- great for simulating patterns on HO scale clothing. A spotter is a pointed round with very short bristles so that they are almost rigid. People tell you to use a toothpick for fine detail; well, a spotter is to a toothpick as a scalpel is to a short sword.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Yeah, I forgot about the Spotter. Never had a Comb though.
Good call on the Mona Lisa. I've also used the Master's.
I advise against ordering Mona Lisa through the mail... it often leaks in shipment. Lots of complaints in forums and product reviews.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Forgot to mention...
_Jerry's Artarama_ is an excellent source for quality brushes and other art supplies.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Some Da Vinci brushes (a high end brand) break down into shorter lengths...
Their "Traveler" Series is one.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

LateStarter said:


> Yeah, I forgot about the Spotter. Never had a Comb though.
> Good call on the Mona Lisa. I've also used the Master's.
> I advise against ordering Mona Lisa through the mail... it often leaks in shipment. Lots of complaints in forums and product reviews.


I agree. Purchase Mona Lisa at Michaels, AC Moore, etc., with a coupon if you can find it.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

LateStarter said:


> Forgot to mention...
> _Jerry's Artarama_ is an excellent source for quality brushes and other art supplies.


Dick Blick's Art Supplies also carries brushes (and cleaner / conditioner). 

Ordering brushes from Amazon can be a hit or miss affair. I've had brushes arrive well wrapped and protected, others just thrown in a box thousands of times too big and arrive with the bristles completely blown out.

I'm currently purchasing Golden Eagle brushes from MicroMark.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

CTValleyRR said:


> I'm currently purchasing Golden Eagle brushes from MicroMark.


Funny you should mention that...
I just ordered the Golden Eagle set of four Flats from MicroMark.
Never had Flats to play with. Just wanna' see if they work as good as Filberts for me. I'm partial to those.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

LateStarter said:


> Funny you should mention that...
> I just ordered the Golden Eagle set of four Flats from MicroMark.
> Never had Flats to play with. Just wanna' see if they work as good as Filberts for me. I'm partial to those.


Post an eval when you've used them a bit. I'm looking at that set for when my current DaVinci's wear out.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

CTValleyRR said:


> Post an eval when you've used them a bit. I'm looking at that set for when my current DaVinci's wear out.


Will do...
But at $7 a brush (w/shipping) they'd better be good.
I've ordered a slew of Loew Cornells, Silverwhites and Princetons from Jerry's, and none of them were over $6.65 on the receipt.
I only have 2 DaVincis. They're out of my league.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

I usually order my brushes from Jerry's Artarama, mostly because they're right here in N.C., and I get the order quickly.
Of course the downside of that is, I have to pay tax.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

LateStarter said:


> I've ordered a slew of Loew Cornells, Silverwhites and Princetons from Jerry's, and none of them were over $6.65 on the receipt.


Actually I lied... (sort of).
Looking through my files, I have several SilverBrush Grand Prix that were $14 to $22 each at an art supply store (back before I knew about Dick Blick and Jerry's).

Funny, I never quoted myself before.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*Paint brush sizes*_

If you're new to artist's/hobby paint brushes, one of the most confusing things can be the way they're _sized_.

The number/size of a brush is basically the width or diameter of the bristles.
The width or diameter increases as it's size-number goes up... from a whole bunch of zeros, up to 1 through 16 and higher.

NOTE: Brushes from one manufacturer to another will not always measure exactly the same within the same number group. There's no universal standard.

I measured some Loew Cornell Filberts and Brights with a dial caliper, and recorded their widths.
These are measurements across the widest portion of the bristles. I didn't measure any #0's or smaller, as measurements on those get kinda' ridiculous.
Measurements are approximate... without squishing bristles, or distorting the overall shape.

Filberts
#1 = .15" wide
#2 = .24" wide
#4 = .38" wide
#8 = .58" wide
#10 = .75" wide

Brights
#1 = .13" wide
#2 = .23" wide
#4 = .38" wide
#6 = .47" wide
#8 = .61" wide
#10 = .78" wide


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Although the previously posted "paint chips" method is a sure fire way to tell how a paint looks dry, it can get bulky and tedious after awhile if you have a whole cabinet full of paint bottles and cans.
An easier/abbreviated way is to simply put a thin dab on the cap or label. Whether you choose to spray DullCote over it is up to you.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*Re-dressing the ends of cut-off brush handles*_

I mentioned earlier that I snip long paint brush handles to about 5-inches.
This is simply a personal preference, to gain a better feel and control.
However, it leaves a nasty bitter end, that after awhile can chip, flake, and just look plain nasty and unprofessional, not to mention that folks who see it will assume that you're clumsy, accident prone, and break things.

I dip the cut end in Performix Plasti-Dip (Dip'N'Grip and Loctite Color Guard are similar).
It's a liquid in a can that's usually used to dip tool handles in, like pliers and screwdrivers, and dries to a waterproof rubbery thickness. It's peelable, so you can remove or re-do it. Additional thickness is easily achievable by just re-dipping.
It'll look much more professional than a chopped splintered end.
I like the Plasti-Dip brand because it's available in different colors... I use red.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*Brush recommendation*_
_But hurry_...

I'm coming to the conclusion that among my favorite brushes are Loew Cornell _American Painter_ series synthetic (taklon).
They're extremely high quality brushes, they excel with acrylics, they have a short handle version, and they're in the $2 & $3 range at Blick's and Jerry's.

Unfortunately, they're slowly being discontinued, and as supply disappears from dealer's shelves, they're not being replaced.
I advise that if you need a brush for acrylics, and you find one of these in a size you need... scoff it up.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*A cheap paint brush brand that's okay*_

A while back, I ordered a cheap 3-brush set from one of the popular suppliers who have a minimum order policy... I was 88¢ short.
The price for the three red sable brushes was only $1.15, so I threw them in the cart to complete the order.
They're Flats in #2, #6, and #10 sizes, in the _Royal Langnickel_ brand, with short handles (I'd never heard of them before).

There were a few loose hairs in the unopened package, which gave me pause.
But after using them, I can say that although they're not great, they're not that bad either (they haven't shed any hairs since).

If you're on a tight budget, and red sable (or whatever) is what you're looking for, these could be a good choice to get you by.
They're available at Amazon, and at some art supply stores.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*Update -- Mission Models acrylics*_

I'm getting to like this brand, almost if not as much, as Vallejo.

It sprays right out of the bottle like a dream, but really excels if mixed with 30% of their thinner, and a few drops of PolyMix®. Or you can thin with distilled water (not tap water).

It doesn't sag, run or spider, even with accidental closeups.

_Plus, their primer is top notch, and with high-grit sanding will produce a finish that rivals glass_.

This paint goes a long time without clogging... a great bonus feature.

PROS: Excellent coverage. Sprays or brushes with equal ease, on a par with Vallejo. Resists spidering. Thins and mixes readily. Good choice of basic colors and shades (i.e., 4 shades of rust).
CONS: Upper price range ($5/oz). No railroad colors. Not on many LHS shelves, though I found it at a local Hobby Lobby.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

I don't have much in common with professional model painters (not that I'd even _pretend_ to).

I like acrylic paints.
But FWIW, the majority of professional/custom model railroad painters that I've talked to, do _not_ use acrylic paints for either priming or finish coats.

They mostly use Floquil, ScaleCoat, ModelMaster, TruColor etc, enamels and lacquers.

Their reasons are grounded in _durability_... acrylics are generally more fragile and less permanent.

Most of them also tend to use bottom feed airbrushes, like the Badger 150 series.
Not sure why... I will always prefer the convenience and easy-cleanup of the gravity paint cup.
I'd ask, but I'm unable to phrase the question without it somehow sounding like criticism (don't want to scratch any egos).

But one thing I've noticed that professionals have in their arsenal, that I just happen to have at my paint bench is...
_Loew Cornell_ brushes.
And they're not all that expensive at Jerry's and Blick's. Chalk one up for the little guy.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*Brush cases*_
MyArtscape, retail $10 to $12.
$15 at Amazon.

Drawers and shelves are poor places to store brushes, and boxes are _awful_ choices to transport them.

These cases are the best I've used. There's also soft canvas rollups, but these are more protective. Nylon 'canvas', with a zipper closure. Breathable, so you can put brushes away damp.
The permanent inserts bend and Velcro into a stand-up position.

Each case holds 15 brushes.
Four different colors.
Two sizes -- for long and short handles. 9.5" or 13".


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

LateStarter said:


> I don't have much in common with professional model painters (not that I'd even _pretend_ to).
> 
> I like acrylic paints.
> But FWIW, the majority of professional/custom model railroad painters that I've talked to, do _not_ use acrylic paints for either priming or finish coats.
> ...


I'll disagree with you on this point, except about using the bottom feed brushes. My friend Craig, who is a professional painter of fantasy figures, says that the bottom feed, with a screen, makes it easier to keep chunks out of the paint, and by requiring air pressure to suck up paint, rather than have gravity potentially force it out, you have less chance of splatter. I can't independently verify that, and, like you, I prefer gravity feed cups, although I like mine detachable.

First of all, Craig and my two other friends who are serious model painters have all "graduated" to acrylics. We all agree that the durability of quality modern acrylics, applied properly, is not noticeably different from solvent based paints. The key part of that statement is "properly applied". Because water evaporates more slowly than the VOC in solvent based paints, acrylics take longer to fully cure -- as long as two weeks or more. Here is our general concensus on proper proceedure.

1) Wash your model / figure with dish detergent. If it will fit in an ultrsonic cleaner, use that. If not, use a pan and soft brush. From this point, do not handle the model with bare hands. Rinse with distilled / filtered water and allow to dry overnight.

2) For small parts, attach a handle of some sort (glue a piece of a sprue to the back (unpainted) side. This can be nipped off later. For figures, I attach them to a small scrap of 1x lumber with double sided tape.

3) Apply a quality primer. Allow to cure for at least 1 week. 2 is better. Protect from dust while drying. Do not handle primed surfaces, even with gloves.

3) Paint. Second coats and touchups may be applied after the paint is dry to the touch. Do not handle the painted surface, even with gloves.

4) Allow to dry for a minimum of 72 hours. Apply a wash or weathering if desired. Do not handle, even with gloves. 

5) Allow to dry 72 hours. Apply acrylic varnish or sealant. Do not handle, even with gloves.

6) Allow to cure for 2 weeks prior to handling.

Now, this is obviously very conservative. It's what we would do if we were painting something for someone else (and, actually, what Craig does for commissions or models he intends to sell). Personally, I do wash and prime a week prior to painting. Then I let the paint cure overnight before applying washes, then again overnight before varnishing. I'm pretty religious about trying to let the paint cure for two weeks after varnishing before handling, though.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Vallejo bottle necks are too small for a Badger mixer.

I've had a few issues with Vallejo Model/Air acrylics (not many, but a few) so this video kind of explained some things. Makes sense to me... a little.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

I've been storing Vallejo jars on their sides for some time now, to limit whatever settling occurs away from the bottoms.
Not sure if my method has any merit, but I haven't had any mixing issues since.


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## Deane Johnson (Sep 19, 2016)

LateStarter said:


> I've been storing Vallejo jars on their sides for some time now, to limit whatever settling occurs away from the bottoms.
> Not sure if my method has any merit, but I haven't had any mixing issues since.


For years during the old Floquil era I thought it would be cool to have a storage rack for model paints that would rotate end for end slowly, or perhaps reverse periodically so the paint never settled.


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## jlc41 (Feb 16, 2016)

Can the Badger mixer not not trimed to fit the Vallejo jar???


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

jlc41 said:


> Can the Badger mixer not not trimed to fit the Vallejo jar???


Yes, but I think it's a chore, and it leaves the mixer head less effective.
There's a vid on that too I think... somewhere.


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## Deane Johnson (Sep 19, 2016)

I use one of those little cheap shakers that's been around for years. Mine is battery operated, but they're available powered. I've thought of converting mine, but I like the convenience of no cords. These new small light weight containers of paint work pretty well on it. The old glass floquil bottles, or worse yet, Scalecoat use to almost overwork it.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Speaking of paint shakers...
DIY:


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## Genetk44 (Feb 26, 2016)

jlc41 said:


> Can the Badger mixer not not trimed to fit the Vallejo jar???


If bu Vallejo jar you mean the small plastic squeeze bottle that dispenses paint by the drop...that little nipple just pulls off...get some stainless steel nuts, just small enough that you have to gently force them into the bottle, put the top back on and voila..paint agitator. Do not...I repeat Do Not use small round bearings...use stainless nuts.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Genetk44 said:


> If bu Vallejo jar you mean the small plastic squeeze bottle that dispenses paint by the drop...that little nipple just pulls off...get some stainless steel nuts, just small enough that you have to gently force them into the bottle, put the top back on and voila..paint agitator. Do not...I repeat Do Not use small round bearings...use stainless nuts.


Um...
See reply #60.


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## Genetk44 (Feb 26, 2016)

LateStarter said:


> Um...
> See reply #60.


Funny...I've been using Vallejo model air for about 4 years and never had the kinds of problems the video mentions. I tend to flip all my paint bottles every few months, storing them on opposite ends. As far as the nuts...havent had any issues but will start shaking them as per the video. Cottonbuds/q-tips with the correct thinner to keep dabbing the needle clean is a very old trick...been doing it for many years and highly recommend it.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*Brushes for acrylic paint*_

There are brands of synthetic brushes that'll get you by, and are good for doing what you need to do (i.e., student grade Langnickels and classroom sets).
Walmart and Michael's are loaded with them at bargain prices, and with coupons are _ridiculously_ cheap.

But if you're really serious about brush quality and durability, there are those that you couldn't go wrong in choosing.
Aside from the expensive Da Vinci Synthetics, (i.e., Top Acryls) IMO these are as good as it gets. They're in the A++ category for quality & durability, and are priced starting in the $2/$3 range at Jerry's Artarama. If you find a promo code, they're even cheaper.
Most are available in short-handle versions.

_*Loew Cornell*_
• "American Painter" (phasing out).
• "La Corneille"

_*Princeton*_
• "Select" series 3750

_*Richeson*_
• "Quiller" series 7000

_*Silver Brush*_
• "Silverwhite"
• "Grand Prix"


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*Grainer brushes*_

Among the types of brushes that artists use are _Grainers_.

They're used mostly for rendering fur and feathers in wildlife paintings and animal portraits.

The end-hairs are the normal length, but the bulk-hairs stop short, leaving a streak effect that with practice can be rendered fine or thick.

These are very useful in _weathering techniques_ such as making rust streaks, rain dripped mud, etc.

There are Flat Grainers and Filbert Grainers... I prefer the Filbert because it can achieve the same result in a thinner pattern if it's rolled or turned.

They're mostly available in 1/8", 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", and 3/4" widths.
I have the 1/8" and 3/8", and fine Spotters to extend the lines if needed.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

LateStarter said:


> _*Grainer brushes*_
> 
> Among the types of brushes that artists use are _Grainers_.
> 
> ...


That's what i was referring to as a comb in an earlier post, just a lot bigger.


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## Deane Johnson (Sep 19, 2016)

My Badger Stynylrez primer arrived. I am wondering which color to use, the white or the grey. I figured out all by myself not to use the black primer.

I believe the main model will be Timiya flat aluminum airbrushed, and the handrails PollyS "safety yellow" brushed. The walkway screen will be natural aluminum.

I saw one of these painted black, but while black was a common color for steam for obvious reasons, I tend to think for diesel colors went lighter. There will be a lot of pipe detail and flat aluminum just seems most appropriate. I understand the prototype was located in Eugene, OR and in the 1980's hadn't progressed past iron oxide primer. I love iron oxide for it's splash of color, but only in appropriate and controlled locations.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Deane Johnson said:


> My Badger Stynylrez primer arrived. I am wondering which color to use, the white or the grey. I figured out all by myself not to use the black primer.
> 
> I believe the main model will be Timiya flat aluminum airbrushed, and the handrails PollyS "safety yellow" brushed. The walkway screen will be natural aluminum.
> 
> I saw one of these painted black, but while black was a common color for steam for obvious reasons, I tend to think for diesel colors went lighter. There will be a lot of pipe detail and flat aluminum just seems most appropriate. I understand the prototype was located in Eugene, OR and in the 1980's hadn't progressed past iron oxide primer. I love iron oxide for it's splash of color, but only in appropriate and controlled locations.


Okay, took me awhile...
I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed.
This is in reference to the 5/32" hole in the Diamond Scale Diesel Fueling Station thread. Gotcha'.

Not sure about which Stynylrez color to shoot, as gray is the only one I've used. But it might depend on what color the model is currently, so you can tell if it's covered, and what it'll be next, so you can see any missed spots.

I think ModelMaster Zinc Chromate Yellow is very close to safety yellow for handrails. It looks perfect to my eyes, and it's what's used for the step rails on the Walthers Cornerstone Industry Office.

Red Chromate primer always interests me, especially on pipes, valves, tanks and boxcar sides. It can look realistically applied in sloppy rectangles on flat surfaces... as though it was rollered on. Needs masking to achieve.

[EDIT]: Interesting info about the prototype...
Part of my layout is focused on the lead-in to the hump yard at Eugene, and it's where my 44 ton #1900 did much of its duty.


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## Deane Johnson (Sep 19, 2016)

Oops, I was thinking the discussion of primer for this project was above in this thread. Probably not. You have not lost your cutting edge.

The model is now a mixture of unpainted brass, soft metal castings, and perhaps a Central Valley staircase. That, I think, is brown styrene.

It's probably a toss up between the white and grey. The white would show the aluminum up better than the grey, where it would probably blend pretty much.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*Harder & Steenbeck Infinity CR® (2-in-1)*_

Had a chance to try one of these beauties this weekend.

High end airbrushes intrigue me, because I'm always comparing them to the market base, to see what they offer above and beyond what I'm used to using.

Not that I'm dissatisfied with my Patriot... far from it! I just let my curiosity wander now and then.

To put it bluntly, this airbrush is the best I've ever used, or even _seen_. And it'll do some things my Patriot just won't.
It has features that the average airbrush needs, but falls short with.

1.) Comes with two cups, 2ml and 5ml (both capped).
2.) Comes with two needle sizes, 0.12mm and 0.4mm.
3.) Has trigger quick-adjust features for tension and travel (in push/click and dial steps).
4.) Integral QD hose connection.
5.) Split needle tip shield for easy cleaning on the fly.
6.) Triple nickel​ plated interior, triple chrome plated exterior.
7.) Triple seal interior.
8.) Easy disassembly.
9.) Easy on/off needle/nozzle protective cap.
10.) Excellent (and explicit) 12 page instructions on glossy paper with color photos.
11.) Felt lined case with luggage slide-locks.

The trigger is the smoothest I've ever felt. The mechanism itself is flawless.

Because the QD hose connection is integral, it feels much more well balanced and compact.

With the trigger adjust features, I was able to smoothly spray-fill between lines 1/16" apart without masking. I think I could also do 1/32" or smaller.

Trigger position, feel and comfort are A++.

It feels the most comfortable to me than any other airbrush... almost like a friendly handshake.

The overall visual quality alone is superb... with gold accents yet!

Priced at an LHS for $272 (MSRP is over $300).
To me, some of its features (and all of its feel) are worth it. I just don't know right now.
But I've been bitten.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

I'm no longer able to use Tru-Color paints due to ventilation/allergy issues.
From now on, it's acrylics or nothing.

I'm still working on finding colors for SP structures to replace Tru-Color's Colonial Yellow, Trim Brown and Moss Green.

So far, the closest I've gotten is Vallejo _Depot Buff_ and _Light Brown #929_.

The Moss Green (for roofs) may have to be a mix, but I might find out that a standard railroad color turns out to be a match.
Anybody recognize it?


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## Deane Johnson (Sep 19, 2016)

LateStarter said:


> I'm no longer able to use Tru-Color paints due to ventilation/allergy issues.
> From now on, it's acrylics or nothing.


That's the issue I have. When I set the allergies off, the effect can last up to 4 days afterwards. Acetone is by far the worst and Tru-Color is based on Acetone.

I've switched to ModelFlex and Vallejo. Not much experience with them yet, but they seemed to work about as well as anything, plus the valuable commentary in this thread has been immensely helpful.

I'm also allergic to the fumes from CA glue and the fumes from Testers styrene glue. I've switched to oderless/non-toxic CA and it seems to help about 80% of the issue. I haven't noticed any difference in the strength of the glue. I also found non-toxic styrene glue from Micro-Scale. Smells like a fruit orchard. I tested it with a single joint and it was solid.

All of the above changes, along with a good respirator may help enough to allow me to continue.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Like you guys, my switch to acrylics was driven by health issues, although I have to admit I much prefer the soap and water cleanup aspect too.

On the issue of matching paint colors, have you checked out the Floquil / PollyScale color cross reference guide published by Model Railroad Hobbyist? If not, check it out (www.model-railroad-hobbyist.com). It's called "A Guide to Acrylic Painting in a Post-Floquil world", and is a free download for subscribers (and subscribing is free, so why wouldn't you?).


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*Silver Brush® Cambridge® Series*_

Although the Silver Brush _Silver Whites_ and _Grand Prix_ are two of my favorites, (they're very affordable) the Cambridge series is a notch above in quality.

They're made with a specific blend of synthetic fibers to hold their shape in acrylic paints.
They're about double the price of the Silver Whites, but if you need a particular brush or two for demanding jobs, (i.e., painting windows & doors, concrete loading docks, sidewalks, etc) they're a great 'go-to' brush for special purposes.
Their Rounds, Filberts and Flats are excellent.
I found they _clean_ a little easier too.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Silver Brush® Sterling Studio® Detail Sets*

Small 'detail' brushes for acrylic paint in sets of four assorted types of brushes. Excellent quality. Great for acrylics.
Very inexpensive! ($3/set).

Click the link below, and click the yellow 'page' icons to read what brushes are in the set.

http://www.jerrysartarama.com/silver-brush-sterling-studio-detail-brush-sets


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*Paint brush bins & holders*_
_Loew Cornell® Multi-Bin® 390_

Don't store your brushes in drawers or boxes!
Keep them in a safe holder like this.

The Multi-Bin 390 is about $4 at discount stores, and about $6 plus shipping at online outlets.
But I saw it for over $10 at Michael's... Eeesh!

Holds about 50 brushes.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*Airbrush holders*_

If you have an airbrush, you almost certainly have a _holder_ for it.
If you plan on _getting_ an airbrush, you absolutely need to buy a holder before you set it up.
It's as essential as the hose.

There are many brands available, in many price ranges. Your choice is up to you. Some are 'solo'... holds one airbrush. Some are dual, and some quadruple. Again, your choice.
But I recommend that you look for one with a protective coating (or a sleeve) on the rack(s) to keep the tip safe from accidental bumps.

There are the stand-alone types (like the Harder & Steenbeck _EVO®_ (with legs) and the clamp-on type.
The stand-alone type can be dragged off the bench if hose and connecting hardware weight is too burdensome.
The Iwata _Medea® Universal®_ holder let's you attach a spray-out pot and a regulator/moisture separator combo to create a nice 'work station'. However, their regulator/separator is expensive.
The holder and pot are available separately, or as a combo at a reasonable price, without the regulator.

Whichever type you choose, I advise against _plastic_ ones, like the Badger. Many of those end up on the floor.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*Acrylic markers*_

As far as I know, acrylic markers hit the model railroad scene almost exclusively for making graffiti, and were popular until Blair Line came out with graffiti decals.
However, some modelers use them for touch-up work, painting figures, weathering effects, etc.

The only brand I have experience with is _Amsterdam_. I've seen them in Michael's, Hobby Lobby and Walmart. They're also available online for $5 to $8 each, depending on tip size, 2mm & 4mm round nibs, or 15mm square nibs.

They're quick drying, have minimal odor, and are just as permanent as paint.
Available in opaque, semi transparent, and metallic colors.

Some brands offer replacement nibs, and at least one brand is refillable.
Still another offers empty tubes to fill with your own acrylic medium.
Not sure how they work out.

Blick's carries a whole line of acrylic markers.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*Thinning acrylic paints*_
_(with some pretty bad stuff)_.

I visited an RC modeler last weekend, and saw some totally awful paint jobs.

For some inexplicable reason, some people are thinning acrylics with alcohol or solvents... even (*gasp*) turpentine!
I have no clue where they get these ideas from, and I can't imagine from what source.
Perhaps from others, who've not used paint since the 1950's (old habits and ideas die hard).

Use only water, or thinner designated for acrylic paint.
Better yet, use the thinner recommended by the paint manufacturer.


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## Deane Johnson (Sep 19, 2016)

LateStarter said:


> _*Thinning acrylic paints*_
> _(with some pretty bad stuff)_.
> 
> For some inexplicable reason, some people are thinning acrylics with alcohol or solvents... even (*gasp*) turpentine!
> I have no clue where they get these ideas from, and I can't imagine from what source..


I think some people take things they read as fact and knowledge. It's always been that way with print media, now that's spread to reading things on forums.

I think of much of the internet as "monkey see, monkey do".


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Deane Johnson said:


> I think some people take things they read as fact and knowledge. It's always been that way with print media, now that's spread to reading things on forums.
> 
> I think of much of the internet as "monkey see, monkey do".


Or, as LateStarter suggested, "Old habits die hard".


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*DaVinci Top Acryl® and Silver Brush Cambridge®*_
_If you can afford them_.

_Sorry to keep harping on brushes, but they contribute to at least 50% of my paint-bench work, and not too many things will spoil a good project as much as a lousy brush_.

If price is no object, there are _top-line_ synthetic brushes for acrylics that'll do the job with superb ease, and with proper care, will last a very long time.

I prefer synthetic brushes over natural hair.
IMO, among the best synthetic brushes for acrylics are the _DaVinci Top Acryl®_ and the _Silver Brush Cambridge®_.
_Full Disclosure: I only have one of each_.

Both are expensive, (the DaVinci's cost the most) but if you can afford either one... get them.
As an example, a DaVinci #2 Round runs about $12, and the Cambridge about $6.
Although I can't really afford them... I can recommend them.

The Cambridge however, does have a downside... as far as I know, they're only available with long handles.
I usually cut long handles to 5 or 6 inches.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*I'm adding Mission Models acrylics to my Top Three*_

Mission Models recommends diluting 20-30% with their thinner (or distilled water) for spraying.
Plus, to increase durability and leveling, they recommend a few drops of their _PolyMix®_ as well.

I thinned it 20% (without PolyMix) and got superb results.

PROS: Superb 'sprayability'. Excellent adhesion. Excellent coverage. Hand-brushes and airbrushes equally well. Dries smooth as silk. No odor. Also thins with distilled water.
CONS: Expensive ($5.50 to $6.50 an ounce). No railroad colors. Prefers to be thinned.

Although it works best when thinned, it showed great results out-of-the-jar.
I didn't use PolyMix simply because it wasn't available.
I sprayed and hand-brushed their Black, and one of their four shades of Rust.

Except for the price, I'm sold.

[EDIT]:
I've always wondered why, if a manufacturer recommends thinning their paint, why not just thin it before bottling it?
OBVIOUS ANSWER: So they can sell you thinner.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

CTValleyRR said:


> Post an eval when you've used them a bit. I'm looking at that set for when my current DaVinci's wear out.


Was wondering where my MicroMark order was, so I emailed...

They responded that they _"weren't able to complete the order"_, (without an explanation) but asked if I wanted a refund or if I wanted to re-order.

I asked for a refund, and ordered the equivalent sizes of synthetic Princeton's from Jerry's (at about half the price).

Funny... in all the time I've been buying from MicroMark, I've never had a hitch before. In fact, they once _under-charged_ me for an item by slipping in a promo-code I hadn't known about.

I may try again at a later date.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*Brush cleaning soaps*_

It's imperative that your brushes get cleaned soon after each use.
The use of good brush cleaning and treatment soaps are an excellent way to keep brushes like new.

Of the common brands, _Mona Lisa_ liquid and _Master's_ cake-soap are the most popular... because they work.

I advise against ordering Mona Lisa through the mail, as it will commonly leak in shipment.

Both are comparatively priced, and are available in different sizes.
Both are found at art supply stores, Michael's, Hobby Lobby, etc.
There are also some very good professional-grade fragrant cake-soaps (lavender, etc) at specialty art stores and at Blick's, but are expensive.

Use early and often.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*Brush Basin*_

Having a handy tub for rinsing and wetting brushes right at the bench is a nice convenience.
There are metal ones, plastic, and ceramic, in different sizes.

This is what I use.
It's made by _Creative Mark_.
It's 6-1/2 inches square by 3-1/2 inches high. Has a tote handle, and a snap-on lid that you can use as a palette.
Holds spare brushes, and keeps the busy ones from laying submerged in water.
$5.49 at Jerry's.

PROS: Cheaply priced, and it'll do what you need it to. Compact size.
CONS: Cheaply made... it's plastic, and it's not a tank.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I think I mentioned this before. I like the Rinse Well:

http://www.micromark.com/Rinse-Well









Great little gadget.

And on the subject of MicroMark, it was interesting to hear about your problem. I've been using them for a dozen years, and never heard of a problem (othrr than complaints about their pricies).


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

And BTW, NEVER leave a brush standing on it's bristles, especially in a jar of water or solvent. Nothing kills a brush faster than that.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_* Edgewater Wash?*_

I ordered this Silver Brush SilverWhite 2-inch synthetic brush for painting plaster/foam base-terrain (browns & buffs) on my layout prior to adding dirt and grass.
It's called an _Edgewater Wash_ (I have no idea what that is).

I'm not sure how it'll work with Latex paint, but I'm about to find out I guess.

Maybe I could've bought a plain brand-X 2-inch horse-hair brush at Home Depot for 79¢, but my curiosity got the better of me.

If it doesn't work out, maybe I can use it to cut-in corners when I paint the kitchen.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

CTValleyRR said:


> And BTW, NEVER leave a brush standing on it's bristles, especially in a jar of water or solvent. Nothing kills a brush faster than that.


Agreed...
But I see it all the time.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*Moss Green -- Could it be?*_

I think I may have stumbled on a serendipitous find...

Moss Green acrylic paint by _ArtMinds_ at Michael's of all places. About $5.50 a jar (3.2 oz).

It _appears_ to be very close to the Southern Pacific moss green I've been looking for... structure roofs only.

At least it's better than anything I've found thusfar.
Now, if it brushes and sprays well... the search has ended!
Hash tag WooHoo.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

LateStarter said:


> Agreed...
> But I see it all the time.


Me too. That's why I threw it out there.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Been looking for a long time, for Filberts in sub-0 sizes...
Finally found one.
A 10/0 by _Beste_. Found it in a local art store, next to a slew of empty 00 to 5/0 slots.
Never used that brand, but the owner says he uses it for acrylics and waters.
I can't picture an easel artist using a sub-0 Filbert, but hey, whatever puts lead in your pencil.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*Cool zippered brush case*_

By _Creative Mark_.
For the bench, or travel.
Holds 20 brushes. Comes in long or short handle sizes.
$7.99 at Jerry's Artarama.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*Slow shipping*_

My latest order from _Jerry's Artarama_ took 9 days to receive, even though they're only 60 miles away... the order took a full week to process.
Blick's is historically better, but not by much.

By contrast, I can usually go to an art store, and walk out with what I'm looking for, but at 2 or 3 times the price.

Pick your poison.


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## Deane Johnson (Sep 19, 2016)

I'm surprised that some of these companies wanting to sell on-line don't catch on that one of Amazon's great attractions is fast shipping.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*Brush-bin turntable*_

I put my brush bin on a 7-1/2" diameter turntable ($6 on eBay).
It spins effortlessly.
The bin fits neatly within eight outer nubs, to keep it centered.
Very handy.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

_*Bench Paint Racks*_

Vallejo's paint racks will hold about a hundred bottles of different sizes and brands... 1/2 oz, 1 oz, 2 oz, etc., plus about 50 brushes.
The straight section and corner unit (sold separately) can be joined together.
Made of laser-cut hardboard

About $16 each at MicroMark.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I have often considered those. My only objection is that i often paint with one or more of my sons, and those paint holders are designed to optimise space for one person.

For my situation, I prefer this:

http://www.micromark.com/Model-40-Carrousel-Organizer

It also comes in a "double stack" version which holds twice as many. It has the additional advantage of being able to mix and match bottle sizes as necessary.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

I was gonna' post that one next. I like the carousel type.
You beat me to it.
More than twice the price though.


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## Mr.Buchholz (Dec 30, 2011)

I have my acrylic paints neatly lined up on a shelf, and sort them with the ones I use the most near the front of the four rows. I cut up empty egg cartons into little cups for putting the paint into. I was going to buy a palette set and/or a small container system, when I noticed how perfect the egg carton really was.

-J.


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## Genetk44 (Feb 26, 2016)

I use one of these holds more paint than I can use...about $12 from Amazon


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## Deane Johnson (Sep 19, 2016)

LateStarter, I've been working intently on the Diamond Scale Models diesel servicing facility. Lots of challenges, but I've found that all of the postings you have made regarding paint performance are right on target. You couldn't be more accurate in your characterizations of their performance.

I'm fighting solvent allergies, so I've had to shift to acrylics whether I want to or not. The good part is that I'm finding them pretty good. Each with a different personality, but there are good choices. The postings you presented here really helped me along. Thanks.

Vallejo and ModelFlex seem to be at the top of my list. I've yet to have a single air brush clog with either one, though I've mostly used Vallejo Model Air on this project. The Vallejo Aluminum is so realistic it looks like real aluminum. Vallejo cleans out of the airbrush like a dream. I use an Iwata at this time.

The Badger Stynylrez primer went on so smooth and thorough that it caught me by surprise. I purchased all 3 colors in a set. The grey is a bit on the dark side, sort of just below battleship grey. I used the white after trying the grey since I'm final coating with yellow and silver.

Rich "safety yellow" is hard to obtain coverage with. I bought probably 12 bottles of yellow to test before finding something that really covers and presents an intense yellow. The winner is Testors ModelMaster Enamel in Bright Yellow. Vallejo hadn't done the job in maybe 6-8 coats, the ModelMaster Enamel did it in two. To create a "safety warning" area, I shoot it with the Bright Yellow which leaves the gloss coat I want. I then run the black diagonal stripes using 3M automobile stripping tape. Easy to use and stays in place. I figured if it was strong enough to use on the outside of a car, it ought to stay put on a model. It does. I simply run it across the space at the desired angle, then after it's down even, cut the ends to size with a #11. Not even much of a challenge to get a great looking area. The only thing to watch is the placement of the tape so the spacing is even and straight. It's very "doable".


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Deane Johnson said:


> LateStarter, I've been working intently on the Diamond Scale Models diesel servicing facility.


Deane:
You just made my day.
Thanks for posting, and kudos for your success!
You described a very thorough job.
We'd all love to see a new thread with a photo (or two or three).
Oorah!

Maybe next time, give Tamiya tape a try, and _spray_ the stripes. It's very good stuff, in many different widths.
BTW, if you're ever concerned about the tackiness of a tape, you can de-tack it a bit, to prevent paint pull-off when you remove it.
You can do that by laying it on a glass or Formica surface, and pulling it off, or even on the back of your hand (be wary of hairs).
Sometimes it's suitable to de-tack several times before applying it.
With a good primer though, and with suitable drying time, de-tacking isn't as necessary. Stynylrez has good adhesion and retention properties.
I'm glad you like the Stynylrez primer. I use it most of the time lately, on everything.
I formerly used ModelMaster _enamel_ primer exclusively, but its 8 to 10-day drying time got to be a pain.
I'm not a fanatic for instant gratification, but 8 to 10-days is a bit much.

Also by the way, kudos for _'masking'_ the stripes with striping tape! Excellent idea. I cheat, and use decal striping. You went the 'pro's' route. :appl: :smilie_daumenpos:


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## Deane Johnson (Sep 19, 2016)

I have a couple of recent models I'll eventually post photos of. That is, unless the photos show up my cruddy work. Maybe I can blur them.

One of the challenges of the Diamond Scale models is that it's fairly old. The walkway posts and certain other parts are cast in soft metal. They bend very easily, the molds ended up sloppy on some of them, etc. I ended up remaking the handrail posts from strip brass. This required some precision drilling and shaping. It came out well, but has consumed a lot of time. There are a lot of them.

Another time consumer is lighting. The model has fake cast "yard light" type lights. I wanted real lights on the pillars that support the walkway and sand towers. I am using Woodland Scenics lights, the small type that might be positioned over a doorway or sign. The kind with the green shade that's been around in the real world for 75 years. The "N" scale size was just right. That meant getting the wiring from the yard light location down to underneath the model, completely concealed.

The other model I will eventually post photos of is the Walther's diesel house. The choice is gluing the doors permanently closed, or leaving them completely off. Not acceptable. I ended up making them motorized/remote control and the mechanisms completely hidden as the inside is fully detailed.

Everything we have to work with these days is completely different than it was when I dropped out of modeling some 25 years ago. It's like starting over, but more fun than ever. At my age of 82, hand/eye coordination is a new wrinkle to be dealt with.


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