# U Shaped 8x11 HO Layout



## markg11

Hello All,

I finished cleaning the junk out of the loft in my two car garage this weekend and have now designated half the space as a train room. I've dug my old HO stuff out of storage and plan to build up a layout with my 6 & 9 year old kids. The purpose of the layout will be to have fun with the kids so we'll keep it simple to start with. Continuous running is a must and I'm going to try to squeeze in two continuous lines so each of them can run their own train. 

I'm still debating whether to use my existing atlas snap track and attaching it semi-permanently or picking up a bunch of Bachmann EZ track which would make it much easier to switch the track around. I'm leaning towards keeping the snap track but if I run in to a great deal on EZ track I may change my mind.

Here's the quick layout we put together this weekend. I picked up some 5 sheets of 2x8x2" foam board and set it up on sawhorses so we could see how the space would work. The height is about 30" which will be terrible on my back and a total pain for any wiring, but it's the right height for the kids so that'll stay. I can raise it up as they grown 










I was pretty happy with the access around the U shape table, we can easily walk around three sides and the fourth size up against the trusses can be accessed if need be. 

Here's my plan for the benchwork. All the legs and supports are 3/4" ply, ripped at 4". The top is 3/8" ply topped with the 2" foam.  The two long sides of the U are identical tables and will be freestanding, the short table (which is cut away for a canyon/bridge scene) will be bolted to the long tables and hang in place.










And here is the track plan that we put together that you can see in the first image. Unlike the computer version, our layout did manage to connect together :laugh: This is certainly not the final layout plan. As I wrote, I'd like to add another loop to allow simultaneous and safe dual train operation, so no crossovers. I may even squeeze in a little trolley line for fun. We'll also add in a couple of more spurs so we can pick up and deliver cargo.










They layout will be DC and will run pretty much anything. I'll keep the car sizes on the small size so we can use the 18" curves. 

If anyone has advice on benchwork or layout design for this shape, I'm all ears. I've attached the SCARM file if you'd like to look at it.

cheers - mark


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## ScrewySqrl

looking at it, my first suggestion is: could you turn it around 180 degrees so the center part of the U is in the area with the sloping roof, up against the wall there? Might make overall access easier.

As for the 30 inch height, theres a great way for it to be a better view for you: Go buy a cheap office task chair, on wheels, and just sit down to operate. You'd only need to stand to reach the back sections.


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## markg11

ScrewySqrl said:


> looking at it, my first suggestion is: could you turn it around 180 degrees so the center part of the U is in the area with the sloping roof, up against the wall there? Might make overall access easier.


The wall at the bottom of that slope is <40", so it's a bit uncomfortable for me to work down there. The lighting would also be a bit tricky down there as well. I prefer the current setup, I can pretty much reach the entire layout without having to go around the back, the low height helps in this regard. I know this may change with scenery, so I'll keep that in mind when putting in the scenery.



ScrewySqrl said:


> As for the 30 inch height, theres a great way for it to be a better view for you: Go buy a cheap office task chair, on wheels, and just sit down to operate. You'd only need to stand to reach the back sections.


I was actually sitting on an old milk crate while we were 'playing' trains and that put me at the right height!

I did a bit of playing around with track in SCARM and made this up :










I would leave the back of the hill/mountain completely open so we could have complete access to the track there. I like the big hill/mountain on the left table as a scenic break. I need to squeeze in a factory or mine on the left side and maybe a passenger station on the right side. The other table would get a town setup. Lots of elevation changes but no crossovers so no danger of collision.

cheers - mark


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## Big Ed

Hello and welcome to the site, it looks like a nice start to your RR.
I see you didn't ask any specific questions yet unless I missed it.
I went back and reread and see one, so far it looks good to me, I like the canyon/bridge ideal. 

So, I have one question, is the loft insulated?
I am guessing your in Ontario Canada?
Summer does gets a little hot right? 
And I know winter gets cold, do you have AC or heat for the loft?
You have the weather extremes covered up there? 

I was going to say flip the layout around too, but if that is what you like leave it as is.
It is your RR.
Against the trusses you could add a backdrop on panels that remove in case you need to get to the RR back there. A mountain scene or something?

One thing I can add if I may, give the little guys something to do too.
Make them feel like they are helping you build the RR.
Maybe give them one corner so they can build a lego town? We have a thread somewhere on this somewhere. You can make a lot of different structures out of lego blocks.
Just a thought to make them feel like they are part of the build.


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## CTValleyRR

I would design in the spurs and sidings now, because they'll be much harder to add later on. Don't compromise your loop concept, just add some turnouts and at least one passing track on each loop.

Also, I wouldn't rule out crossovers. Real trains use them all the time, and collisions are rare. Teach your kids to obey signals and operate like real engineers.

One final note: if the computer drawing doesn't line up, that means that you've fudged your track somewhere, and there is probably a kink in it which could be the source of endless headaches later. Do yourself a favor and go back and find it, then fix it using very short track pieces.


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## jesteck

One small note on the benchwork- 1x4s (actual measurement is closer to 3/4 x 3 3/4") would be easier and quicker than ripping 3/4" ply, and would hold screws or nails better than plywood end-grain.


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## markg11

Thanks for the input everyone. I'm continuing to work with SCARM to refine the layout and will probably switch things around a bit more once I've got the benchwork built and can physically move the track around and see how things look in real life.

I've got the weather mostly covered for the garage. This loft is the 2nd floor of my 2-car garage woodworking shop. It is very well insulated and shaded by trees so temperature is fine in the summer. I need to add a bit more heat in the winter, the downstairs is okay but I'll probably add a baseboard heater or other electric heat source for the upstairs.

A backdrop to cover up the trusses is a very good idea, I'll definitely try and work that into the plan. As far as Lego, I expect most of our early building will be done with Lego, we have quite a substantial collection (to put it mildly). As the kids get older I'll work with them to change it to HO scale structures. My 9 year old is just about at that point now.

I suppose a crossover accident wouldn't be the end of the world. At the start they'll only be running trains that I am willing to sacrifice anyways, and one accident would probably be all they would need to learn about the importance of safe operation. 

1x4s would have been easier to work with than the plywood, but I decided that the dimensional stability of the plywood would be worth the extra effort required. I have lots of experience with woodworking so have no trouble working with the plywood. I'll predrill the holes and countersink the screws, so it should turn out okay.

cheers - mark


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## CTValleyRR

If you use realistic speeds (as opposed to a wide open throttle), any damage in a crossover accident would be minimal. My kids have always operated my layout respectfully, exercising great care in what they're doing. Even my 11 year old (who has his own layout, mostly built by him) doesn't run wide open throttles on his tracks.


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## DonR

Your initial SCARM layout does look interesting and
does provide for your need for 2 separate independent
tracks for the kids to individually operate.

You should plan, tho, to have turnouts connect them
so that any train could have access to any part of
the layout.

As a DC layout, you will need 2 power packs and
insulated joiners where the 2 tracks connect.
It would help to have DPDT switches that control
track power to each section so that either
power pack could power any part of the layout.

Sectional track does have problems with
electrical continuity, especially on a larger
layout as your propose. If you can, instead
of the EZ track, I would suggest going with
code 100 Flex track. It comes in 3 foot sections
that you can bend to meet the design of
your layout. It could be mounted directly to
your table top or use foam or cork road 
base under it. Fewer track joints result
in more smooth operation.

On a layout of your size, plan on running an
electrical buss with power drops every 6 feet 
or so connected
thru the switches I mentioned above.

As to the layout table, you'll have some
difficult climbing under the tables for
the electrical connections with those
cross braces. Since you are experienced
with wood working you could find a way
to stabilize the legs with less intrusion.

Don


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