# New Guy with a few questions.



## jfriedrich (Dec 28, 2013)

Hi All, 

Found the forum while doing some research the other night. I have been pondering getting into the hobby for awhile and have mainly been enjoying TRAINZ simulator on my PC. 

I got this set for Christmas and have a couple questions about it: 
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/931-891

1. Though I understand the concept of DCC, is what comes with this set a simplified version of the $300 plus dollar systems that are on the market? 

2. The set as you all may know comes with the infamous Bachmann EZ Track, I read that its possible to separate the plastic road bed from the track. How hard is it to do? Is it worth it?

3. If i were to purchase a DCC equipped/ready SD40-2 could I use it with this controller without issue?

For a layout I am going to stick with a 4' x 8' for now with potential for a small expansion or 2 later on down the road. I have a 4' x 8' sheet of plywood already to use. Should I be getting a piece of foam to glue down to the plywood as well? What about the cork road bed? I do want to ballast the tracks and have them look realistic. I don't have a particular route to model, I was thinking of more of a freelance type layout but whilst taking cues from real routes. 

Sorry for such a long winded first post, 
Thanks For any help and or suggestions,
Regards,
Jordan


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## BK R (Dec 8, 2012)

I don't know about infamous, I use the grey base nickle/silver track (threw all the steel out) and have no problems at all (I also run all steel wheels)
Don't knock it till you try it.


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## trains galore (Jul 22, 2013)

Hi there!
1. The dcc controllers that come with basic sets are usually fairly decent (yours can control up to 6 trains at once, thats pretty good They don't have all the features that some of the more expensive controllers do though, and you don't have the ability to plug in handheld controllers around the layout. Still though, you should find it will meet most needs even on a moderately sized layout!
2. I have never used EZ track personally, but it's probably best to keep it seperate as a set and just buy some flexi track since you may damage the rail sleepers trying to pry it off (track is quite delicate, you don't want to damage it.)

3. I'm not sure exactly what it means by "North American DCC standards" can't really help you there. I THINK all dcc is pretty much compatible but you had better check before you buy it

Now as for the layout I laid my track straight on to the wood to make it simple but alot of people put the cork sheeting under the track, it does make it a bit easier to remove the track later on if you need to. I haven't had any problems with ballasting with the track pinned directly onto the board, I just used a bit of diluted pva and sprinkled the ballast on, works ok. You want a nice level surface for the track to avoid derailments, so try to make it as flat as possible. Don't put foam on it's own under the track, use foam for making the scenery around the layout.
Also plywood can warp a bit and you don't want that to happen so it's a good idea to reinforce the plywood with some struts along it to stop it bending.
Hope it helps!


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## timlange3 (Jan 16, 2013)

Hi Jordan, a 4' x 8' is a good start. You may find by cutting it into 1' x 8' strips you can make a 9' x 9' with a 7' x 7' opening. This will give you the ability to make larger radius turns, much shorter reaches, and the ability to 'modulize' the railroad into four sections. You can also turn it into a shelf railroad, with at least two sections against walls. You may find you can make the entire railroad into a shelf railroad and support it entirely with wall brackets. Then you will have room for all the furniture under the railroad.


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## budro6968 (Dec 29, 2013)

*Lay out suggestions*



timlange3 said:


> Hi Jordan, a 4' x 8' is a good start. You may find by cutting it into 1' x 8' strips you can make a 9' x 9' with a 7' x 7' opening. This will give you the ability to make larger radius turns, much shorter reaches, and the ability to 'modulize' the railroad into four sections. You can also turn it into a shelf railroad, with at least two sections against walls. You may find you can make the entire railroad into a shelf railroad and support it entirely with wall brackets. Then you will have room for all the furniture under the railroad.


This my first post. Do you have a pic of such a lay out or can point me in the direction to do a little research? I have A/F S Gauge, close to 2 hundred pieces of track and switching also. I have had a # 303 Loco and figure 8 set since my cousin handed down his set in around 1966. I recently acquired the extra track off of e-bay and a few other items as well. looking forward to playing with this stuff, It's only been sitting around for 30 plus years. I have a lot of work to do before I can even run my train. It won't turn over at this point but does move the armature slightly when direct contact to the brush holders. I have limited space so the shelf idea sounds good to me. Thanks... Bud....


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Jordan

That looks like a nice starter set. It comes with a Digitrax DCC system
and that's one of the better liked makes. Tho Walthers used strange
language, 'meets North American Standards' you can pretty much assume
it is fully compatible with all DCC equipped locomotives. NMRA is the
standard most are familiar with. My guess is this systems does meet
those requirements.

I'd leave the EZ track alone for now. You can use it temporarily as you get acquainted
with running the system and can make plans for what you want to
build. Then, I'd plan on using flex track, code 100 is the most used,
but code 83 provides a slightly better scale for HO. I've always gotta
put in my plug for Peco INSULFROG turnouts. They are the best
running available and fully DCC compatible.

It is helpful to use 1" pink or blue foam to cover your plywood table. Then,
for main lines, cork or foam, road bed. The track would go right onto
the foam for yards and spurs. 

There are helpful threads covering every aspect of model railroading
here on the Forum. Peruse them and then ask for help on anything
that you don't understand. 

Don


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## jfriedrich (Dec 28, 2013)

Thanks Guys for the replies so far. 

I checked the thickness of my plywood and it's 3/4" so I don't think I'll have to add much additional stiffening. Also I'm limited to 4' x 8' and not much larger as I'm still living at home with the folks and that's about all the space available in the basement. None the less I do agree its a great size to start with. 

I'm glad this set is DCC which will give me the opportunity to run more locomotives down the road, hence the reason behind me asking about the SD40-2 as that's my favorite loco and would love to have one on my layout at some point in the future. Speaking of that whats the minimum curve radius to safely use an SD40-2 at? 

With regards to rolling stock and steel wheels, I read that the steel wheels will follow the rails better. My plan is to use steel wheeled rolling stock as much as possible. 

Is the 1" foam key? I don't really plan on having to much of a rolling hilly terrain for now. Could I just use the 1" foam and build hills then attach directly to the plywood if desired? What if i were to use a thinner foam to create terrain changes only in the sections where I want them?

I think for now as you guys suggested I'm going to use the EZ track for testing/trial purposes. I'm going to the Hobby Shop tomorrow and going to hopefully get some track etc. Is there a way to transition from code 100 to code 83 and vise versa? As I have some code 100 from and older HO Bachmann set and would like to use it if possible, if not I'm going to just use Code 100. 

Thanks Again for the help/advice I will continue to peruse the forums and ask questions to further my knowledge and to prevent myself from making expensive mistakes.

Regards,
Jordan


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## trains galore (Jul 22, 2013)

Hi again!
Even though your plywood is thick, it's still a good idea to have a bit of bracing because warped boards will ensure that your layout suffers derailments etc. It may seem unnecessary now, but you don't want to be trying to add bracing later when you've done all your scenery.
I would go with code 100 track, it seems to be what alot of layouts use plus it's not hard to get.
Everyone makes the odd expensive mistake when it comes to modelling, it's not a cheap hobby  However it's certainly a good idea to have a plan and know exactly what you want out of your layout!


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Jordan

Bachmann claims that their SD 40 will run on 18" curves. Couldn't find
the minimum radius recommendations of other makes.

BUT

If you can, stick with 22" or greater radius on all of your mainlines.
Those 6 wheel trucks are going to have the flanges grinding 
against the rails on tight curves. Long modern freight cars and
passenger cars also want the wide sweeping curves.

Don


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## timlange3 (Jan 16, 2013)

Jordan, here is link that may give you more ideas,

http://hogrr.blogspot.com/

Tim.


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## jfriedrich (Dec 28, 2013)

Thanks Don for the info, and thanks Tom for the link. I picked up some track and more rolling stock today at the hobby shop, an SD40-2 will be in the future. On to the planning stages now. 

Thanks Again and Happy New Year, 
Jordan


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## trains galore (Jul 22, 2013)

Sounds good! Have fun!
Word of advice: it's a good idea to drill a pilot hole for the track pins, that way they don't get bent when you hit them, especially with plywood.


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

trains galore said:


> Sounds good! Have fun!
> Word of advice: it's a good idea to drill a pilot hole for the track pins, that way they don't get bent when you hit them, especially with plywood.


Or OSB or the extra heavy MDF.


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

budro6968 said:


> This my first post. Do you have a pic of such a lay out or can point me in the direction to do a little research? I have A/F S Gauge, close to 2 hundred pieces of track and switching also. I have had a # 303 Loco and figure 8 set since my cousin handed down his set in around 1966. I recently acquired the extra track off of e-bay and a few other items as well. looking forward to playing with this stuff, It's only been sitting around for 30 plus years. I have a lot of work to do before I can even run my train. It won't turn over at this point but does move the armature slightly when direct contact to the brush holders. I have limited space so the shelf idea sounds good to me. Thanks... Bud....


Bud, you would be better off starting a new thread. You will get more replies thatway.


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