# Track cleaning



## redman88 (Nov 25, 2015)

Okay so my wife bought a large oval track at a garage sell. It came with the track (Ez-track) the plywood oval to sit the track on. It was suspended from the ceiling. And a control box. Apparently the previous owners were smokers because some of the track has that smoke stain quality along with dirt. I want to set it up again in my house and run some trains on it. But circumstances won't let me set it up again unless I can make much closer to new.


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## mikek (Dec 29, 2013)

I have the same setup, like it fine. You can clean EZ track with dishwashing liquid and a scrub-brush or old toothbrush. Clean the top of the track with very mild abrasive like Comet before the dishwash step, so it removes all the Comet. The hobby shop will have a real nice track cleaner device, it's like a big ink eraser. Use that before you run your trains. Lucky to get a controller, that's a good start. 
I had to fasten my EZ track down with little nails so the trains would not derail. Uneven track is not good.


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## redman88 (Nov 25, 2015)

No hobby shops around me have to shop online if I want it in a decent time frame. Will pick up some commet next I hit wallyworld. Soap by its self isn't enough I tried just gets the sticky off.


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## mikek (Dec 29, 2013)

The Comet is available at any store, or any mild abrasive. It's just to polish the top of the track to remove any corrosion or gunk. If all else fails, spray Easy-Off oven cleaner will remove just about anything. Use rubber gloves.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

If you don't have any already, purchase a small package of TSP (tri-sodium phosphate). Prepare a couple of quarts of the stuff and brush it over the rails. Do this three or four times over the course of 15 minutes. Then, use a stiff vegetable brush and brush the bejaysus out of the rails. Rinse well with clean fresh water, let it all dry over night.

That should take care of 95% of the cleaning. The other 5% lies hidden inside the tiny metal joiners, the sleeves that join the rail ends where they meet. They tend to hide crud and corrosion in them and this compromises the flow of electrons from rail-segment to the next. If you can, clean the tracks by taking them all apart. If you can't without destroying something valuable, hope for the best with the TSP. An alternative might be using acid flux on the joiners and attempting to solder them if you wish to have better electrical connectivity. The acid flux will mostly destroy corrosion and crud, and the solder will help bridge the rails. 

If you aren't keen on soldering, but can take the rails apart, sliding the rail ends in and out of the joiners several times will also displace some of the build-up inside the joiners. Again, this presupposes that the joiners are filled with unwanted crud...they may be just fine. A test of continuity, either by running the trains or by using a multimeter, will be the test.

For my experience, after all the above, I swipe the tops of the rails with 600 grit paper. I then wipe the same surfaces with a clean cloth impregnated with isopropyl alcohol. You'll notice the rag will have many black streaks about the width of the top of the rail you are wiping when you look.

Good luck. It's not simple or easy in this hobby, but a persistent and keen person gets a lot better at it. Keep at it!


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## thedoc (Oct 15, 2015)

The cleaning block is called a *Bright Boy* and most mail order suppliers should carry them. 

Note, *DO NOT USE STEEL WOOL TO CLEAN YOUR TRACK!*


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Once you get your track clean will you have a train to run on it?

You said you have a control box; What is it, a DC power pack?

Do we assume the track is HO gauge?

Don


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## redman88 (Nov 25, 2015)

It HO and I did pick up a few engines from eBay they all run but the track needs a good cleaning. I wouldn't worry to much but we just started hosting some kids that had live in the house that the track came from. So I don't want to bring up bad memories. As I write this I think I need to paint the track.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Thedoc wisely recommended against using Steel Wool to
clean the track. The reason is, it sprinkles tiny shards of metal
between the rails. These can be picked up by the loco trucks
and destroy the plastic gearing therein. They can also cause
short circuiting.

Use a non metalic cleaner.

Don


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I have never used EZ track, but I think it came in steel track or nickel silver track.
If your track has any rust or major discoloring it is probably steel. Nickel silver
is what you want to use. Not the steel. The steel will need constant cleaning. It seems 
EZ track came with black roadbed or gray roadbed. One is steel and the other is 
nickel silver. What color is the roadbed?


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## redman88 (Nov 25, 2015)

mopac said:


> I have never used EZ track, but I think it came in steel track or nickel silver track.
> 
> If your track has any rust or major discoloring it is probably steel. Nickel silver
> 
> ...



Mostly gray but I do have a few sections of black


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

"Mostly gray". I think that is good. I was thinking the gray was the nickel silver.
And the black is steel. We need another member that knows for sure to comment.
I have used steel. Cleaned and it will work. It just oxidizes faster than any other
track. I have some nickel silver track stored in my basement for a new layout
that has been in boxes for at least 15 years. I checked it last week and there is no
visable oxidation at all.


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## thedoc (Oct 15, 2015)

mopac said:


> "Mostly gray". I think that is good. I was thinking the gray was the nickel silver.
> And the black is steel. We need another member that knows for sure to comment.
> I have used steel. Cleaned and it will work. It just oxidizes faster than any other
> track. I have some nickel silver track stored in my basement for a new layout
> ...



Yes the grey is nickel silver and the black is steel, but it's a steel alloy and I'm not sure what is in it but it's not like the old steel rail that Atlas used during the 40's. I believe the alloy does resist corrosion better than plain steel. Nickel silver does oxidize but it is the same color as the base metal and it is conductive so even when it is oxidized it will conduct electricity. 

In 'O' gauge some of the Gargraves track uses stainless steel for the rails, maybe some other brands do as well?


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## RonthePirate (Sep 9, 2015)

Uh-oh..........I was using steel wool to clean off my 027 pieces. Maybe I'm lucky, they haven't been secured to a layout yet.
So I can take an air hose and blow out anything that may be in there.
Never thought of that, glad I read your thread, redman.

I do use rubbing alcohol on the rail tops, though. (I hope that's OK)
I just take a rag, splash a bit of alcohol on it, and rub the three rails together.
Amazing at the black that comes off.


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## mikek (Dec 29, 2013)

Ron, use a strong magnet to collect the steel wool, or your loco motor will pull it up, terrible for motors.
Redman, consider including the kids in your train experience. Their interest and enthusiasm will benefit all involved.


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## redman88 (Nov 25, 2015)

mikek said:


> Ron, use a strong magnet to collect the steel wool, or your loco motor will pull it up, terrible for motors.
> Redman, consider including the kids in your train experience. Their interest and enthusiasm will benefit all involved.



Oh I do include the kids. But this track needs to clean and maybe painted before I let two of the kids see it. I don't want to cause them any heartache. As they have been removed from the home this track was in previously


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## RonthePirate (Sep 9, 2015)

mikek said:


> Ron, use a strong magnet to collect the steel wool, or your loco motor will pull it up, terrible for motors.
> Redman, consider including the kids in your train experience. Their interest and enthusiasm will benefit all involved.


10-4. Good advice, I will use it. :thumbsup:


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## thedoc (Oct 15, 2015)

redman88 said:


> Oh I do include the kids. But this track needs to clean and maybe painted before I let two of the kids see it. I don't want to cause them any heartache. As they have been removed from the home this track was in previously


Of course I don't know what the situation was with the kids in that house, but you might consider that the trains were associated with some good memories for the kids.


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## redman88 (Nov 25, 2015)

True and they hadn't had any problems with my sons wooden train cars. But they have only been the house a few days. And the sound of an HO train running is different then just seeing track or wooden train cars. I just want to make sure the association is less.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Careful*



RonthePirate said:


> Uh-oh..........I was using steel wool to clean off my 027 pieces. Maybe I'm lucky, they haven't been secured to a layout yet.
> So I can take an air hose and blow out anything that may be in there.
> Never thought of that, glad I read your thread, redman.
> 
> ...


 Ron;

If you have a shop vac, I would recommend using that instead of an air hose. It would be better to corral, and get rid of any steel wool slivers; rather than just blowing them all over.
If there around then sooner or later they will end up in someone's bare foot, or worse get blown into someone's eye. They may also make it back to the layout and be pulled into the motor of a loco, by the motor's magnets.(very bad for the motor)
If there isn't a shop vac available, running a strong magnet around the layout will pick up most of it. Some modelers routinely run a car with a magnet under it to catch any metal parts, spikes, track nails, etc. that make it onto the track.
To get the abrasive cleaning of steel wool; without the steel, (and its attendant problems)
you can use 3M scotch brite pads. Any plastic fibers that rub off would be harmless.
Rubbing alcohol is fine. It won't hurt anything. I also use LPS-! to clean track and help keep it clean. It leaves behind a thin layer of conductive film that helps trains run better, and resists oxidation.

 Traction Fan


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