# Stuck early style knuckle coupler



## TimmyD (Dec 6, 2021)

Aftermarket knuckle couplers came, so I now have a transition New Haven 650 assembled, and another knuckle that I was hoping to make a transition freight car with. Finally got new bulbs in my engines, and was excited to get the 283 on the track, but have found the knuckle coupler seems frozen in the open position. Soaking in 3in1 now, going to try the hairdryer trick in the morning, hoping it is some mold release agent I can loosen up. I would really like to save it instead of replace it as I would prefer the original on this all original, pretty good shape engine but we will see. Any tips? 
Thanks as always!
TimmyD


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

You are doing what I do. I douse a sticking coupler with oil. I use to use 3 in 1 but now use 
synthetic motor oil. I use the synthetic for all my oil needs on my trains. Works for me. I have
heard 3 in 1 evaporates after some time. A quart of synthetic is a lifetime supply. I think I use
20W.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

You can rebuild the original by using repo parts, or use a coupler from another car, any 900 series car will do. Get a old tired caboose and scavenge the coupler off of it. Your engine will still be original as it's using a original coupler.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

In the 1993 issue of Classic Toy Trains, there's a detailed article, with photos, on how to repair AF knuckle couplers.


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## TimmyD (Dec 6, 2021)

Thanks Mopac and flyernut! I was able to free it up enough that I can actually link it to a car if I pull down on the weight. I think the knuckle is now freed up enough, but I think the metal tab on the weight that goes up through the top of the coupler is rusty, and therefore has enough friction to not let the weight lock it properly. Hopefully a little use will help it out, but scavenging off of an old car is a great idea long term. I don't know that I am agile enough to rebuild a coupler myself, my fingers already seem fat when working with S scale couplers!  As always I appreciate the help and have a wonderful day! 
TimmyD


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Soak it in evaporrust.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

That sounds like a good idea.


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## TimmyD (Dec 6, 2021)

sjm9911 said:


> Soak it in evaporrust.


Thanks, that is a product that I am unfamiliar with, but it sounds fantastic. Is it safe for the plastic? Thanks sjm!


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

TimmyD said:


> Thanks, that is a product that I am unfamiliar with, but it sounds fantastic. Is it safe for the plastic? Thanks sjm!


I use it all the time, but I'm not sure about the plastic issue.It's a wonderful product, but will also remove bluing like on a gun barrel or sheet metal truck..It's reusable and comes in different quantities. I bought a quart can several years ago, and I'm still using it. It's also non-toxic..Mix a little gin with it for a nice after-taste,lol!!!!


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Dosen't melt plastic at all. At least when I used it. Yes it will take blueing off, but it will work.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

You can soak rusty track in it. It will remove black off of Gilbert track ties but eat the rust.
I guess you could remove the ties first.


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## TimmyD (Dec 6, 2021)

mopac said:


> You can soak rusty track in it. It will remove black off of Gilbert track ties but eat the rust.
> I guess you could remove the ties first.


I have seen people soaking their track, I was concerned about degrading the insulators, which I think are cardboard? Is this a valid concern or nothing to worry about if fully dried back out? 
Thanks!
TimmyD


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

If fully dried out I think you would be fine. I have not soaked any track.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

I think soaking Gilbert track should usually not be done. It looks bad with the blueing removed from the ties. The insulators will usually survive. Only the railhead and pins need to be shiny to work. The web and flanges are irrelevant except where a track clip is attached to a rail flange. Since Gilbert track is not plated it can be thoroughly sanded. A grinder can even be carefully used to clean it. If the track is badly rusted or bent get replacements. They are plentiful and cheap.


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## TimmyD (Dec 6, 2021)

Update on the coupler, asside from a weak opening spring, it is working quite well now. I haven't used any evaporust. I let it sit over night with a lot of 3 in 1 on it, then used the hairdryer in the morning. Once it was moving, I worked it back and forth, getting the oil in. I then got the weight moving, and have just worked it as much as I had time for, and now it will properly link and retract, thought the spring is pretty tired. Still delighted with the progress, thanks for all the help!
TimmyD


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