# Track Manufacturer Selection



## Cowboy (Dec 31, 2010)

I am new to this hobby and I am about to start building my benchwork - thank you all for your ideas and guidance in designing it. My benchwork is targeted for basic completion by end of February.

Now, the more I read, the more I am starting to think about my investment in track. I will be working in HO with DCC (I have a Digitrax Super Empire Builder Xtra). Initially I planned on using Bachmann E-Z track NS, and I have made a minimal investment in it. I have no other brand of track at this time, but I see many, many, people use Atlas Code 100 and Code 83.

I understand that Atlas track will require cork and ballast. Bachmann does not. The requirement for ballast is not a deciding factor.

My question to you wise advisors is: Which is a better investment plan? My layout is roughly 30" wide and runs the outside of a room that measures 10' by 12' with a 3'x3' peninsula.

Should I keep my E-Z track for my test track and build my layout with Atlas, or should I continue on with E-Z track and only use select pieces of Atlas as required (bridges, etc)?

This is a long-term plan and the layout will certainly be modified over time. I am looking for flexibility, adaptability and ease of consistency in running.

Appreciate your advice.


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## Bucklaew (Oct 7, 2010)

I had 2 different types of track. I was using Life Like black track. I had some Atlas and used it for a mountain side layout. The 2 different types of track just did not look right together. By my standards the Life Like track just did not look authentic. Presently I have all my Life Like up for sale on EBay. Also the Life Like HO gauge I think takes up more room than the Atlas.

Yes the Atlas requires more work but that was not a consideration in my choice. I also like the greater selection of items for Atlas. But these are all personal choices. I also like Atlas because I can get those flex tracks and that opens all kinds of layout options. Take care and build your layout as you would like to see. Remember you are in this hobby to please yourself, and not me or anyone else.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

I have a lot of atlas track code 100 been collecting and using it for years! It is very sturdy and #1 reason is the switches are DCC friendly. Peco's are nice but $$$ and if you need something out of the norm (double slip switches, cross overs) I would go peco, insulated frog only, Electro frogs are not DCC friendly, or walthers/shinahora. Code 100 is larger and code 83 is smaller you can mix the two with rail joiner adapters or just a little skilled soldering work, height of the rails are smaller, I stay with 100 mainly because I have thousands of feet of it, you can deemphasize the size by painting the rails flat dull black. Sticking with one kind of rail is easier, you can just grab any piece and fit it in.


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

I prefer the Flex track because I am not limited to the parts that the manufacturer makes. I chose the code 100 since I have several old locomotives and rolling stock that may bottom out on the code 83. Stay away from snap switches when possible in any area were large locomotives or trains running at speed will be used. They are actually slightly less than an 18r turn. I only use them in a yard where all operations are very slow and the largest locomotive is an Athearn BB FM Trainmaster.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

tkruger,
Can you post a pic of your Athearn BB FM Trainmaster. I want to get one to kit bash into a Baby Trainmaster. Bachman has one but the drive is the pits!


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

I too, because I have so much of it, have stayed with Atlas code 100 track. To make it appear more realistic, I spray paint my track with red primer, especially the rails. It dries to a color very simular to that of rust. After it's dry I spray the ties with flat gray, then with a little flat light tan, a touch of flat light brown and just a hint of flat black. A little goes a long way. When it's all completely dry, I spray it with just a light touch of silver. This gives the ties an old appearance, as old oak in reality always has somewhat of a slight silvery look to it. When it's all dry, I use a track erasor and clean the tops of the rails, but leave the sides as is, as it gives the illusion of old rusty track. 

I then flip the individual pieces of track over, exposing their underside and with the track erasor, I clean the ends of each piece in the area where the metal joiners will be fitted. When layed, the track looks extremely realistic and still has very good electrical conductivity, as the engines run just as well on it as they would on unpainted track, and I've never had any of the paint come off onto the wheels of my engines. I do all of the painting and cleaning of the track before I do any of the laying of it. This way there are no afterspray problems anywhere on the layout. 

The type of spray paint I use is the type that comes in a spraycan. The brand I use is called Krylon. Though Walmart and Lowes do carry it, the best color selection of it by far anywhere that I've found is at Michaels. they have every concievable color imaginable in both flat and gloss alike.

Routerman


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## Cowboy (Dec 31, 2010)

jzrouterman said:


> I too, because I have so much of it, have stayed with Atlas code 100 track. To make it appear more realistic, I spray paint my track with red primer ... Routerman


Routerman, thank you. That is very helpful and sure seems like a lot of work.


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

Cowboy said:


> sure seems like a lot of work.


A little. I just place a board accross two saw horses outside and lay the pieces of track on it and just start painting. It's actually a lot of fun. The only work and time consuming part to this is the cleaning of the tracks with the track erasor. 
Routerman


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