# New O / O27 12' x 9'6" layout



## mwpeber

Just now physically getting started with designing a new layout but have been thinking about it for quite some time. I've taken a bunch of the track that I have laying around and laid it out on the floor to get an idea of how it might go together. Here are a few pics. Feedback is appreciated.

The space I am working with is apx 12' x 9'6". It could be a little bit bigger, but I want the layout to be manageable.

The main line is kind of an out and back with a loop at each end. half will be elevated. Hopefully you can follow the upper line as it heads over the bridge. I would like a continuous design for the main line and I suppose this is sort of there. 

I haven't figured out the required grades yet.

Also, I would like to be able to run at least 2 two trains at once and think I've achieved that.


----------



## Big Ed

Hi..... I think you have two different tracks there.
The black tie might be O and the brown tie are O/27. 
I think, measure them.










At least one of your switches is for O track too.

You might have trouble running them together.


----------



## mwpeber

Yes, I do have two different types of track. My intent is to use O27 for the inner track which is where the yard is and the continuous loop is at. The outer track which circles around and goes over the bridge will be O. There will be one transition point between O and O27 just before the brown switch.

I don't have much O so I'll have to pick up some more.


----------



## Big Ed

mwpeber said:


> Yes, I do have two different types of track. My intent is to use O27 for the inner track which is where the yard is and the continuous loop is at. The outer track which circles around and goes over the bridge will be O. There will be one transition point between O and O27 just before the brown switch.
> 
> I don't have much O so I'll have to pick up some more.



OK in your picture you have them all mixed up.

O/27 trains will work on the O track.
O trains on the O/27 track will create some problems.

Is your basement prone to flooding?
It looks like it gets damp.


----------



## Big Ed

Track 101 for you too,

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=2433&highlight=tubular+track


----------



## mwpeber

Yeah I know all the track is mixed up right now. I'm just trying to get a general idea of how to lay the track and what track I need to purchase. Most of the O27 track is very rusty and I don't plan to use it anyway. Of the 6 switches I have shown, only the 3 manual ones work (2 O and 1 O27). The other 3 older O27 remote switches seem to be bound up, rusty and I haven't been able to get them to work yet. I haven't put much time in to them yet either.

Anyway, I plan to pick up the missing pieces so it all fits together nicely.

As far as the basement...it flooded when they were building the house before the the sump pump was installed.


----------



## Big Ed

mwpeber said:


> Yeah I know all the track is mixed up right now. I'm just trying to get a general idea of how to lay the track and what track I need to purchase. Most of the O27 track is very rusty and I don't plan to use it anyway. Of the 6 switches I have shown, only the 3 manual ones work (2 O and 1 O27). The other 3 older O27 remote switches seem to be bound up, rusty and I haven't been able to get them to work yet. I haven't put much time in to them yet either.
> 
> Anyway, I plan to pick up the missing pieces so it all fits together nicely.
> 
> As far as the basement...it flooded when they were building the house before the the sump pump was installed.


Then you should lay all the O together and O/27 together to get an ideal of what more you need?

Do something I did not do, paint the walls before you build the layout.
If you plan on painting, I wish I had done that first.hwell:

You can clean the rust some, did you look at the track 101 link? There is more info on the this site about cleaning/tweaking track.
Don't use steel wool or sandpaper to clean.

Some leave the rust on the rail. The top and where the pins go should be clean and shiny.
I had a friend who rusted his track on purpose, if you look at real track it is rusted. 
Did not look bad either, but you do need the tops clean to run the trains.


----------



## mwpeber

I hadn't thought about using the rusty O27 track. I might be able to make that work.

I want the O scale track on the outer loop so I can use much more gradual curves.

That's a great video. So just need scotch brite pad, cloth, and WD40.


----------



## Big Ed

mwpeber said:


> I hadn't thought about using the rusty O27 track. I might be able to make that work.
> 
> I want the O scale track on the outer loop so I can use much more gradual curves.
> 
> That's a great video. So just need scotch brite pad, cloth, and WD40.



Try it a lot of rusty track and switches can be cleaned up nicely.

Yes he greased the tops and let the track sit out in the rain for a while to get that real look.
Afterwards he cleaned the grease off and cleaned the tops real good and built his layout. Afterwards he painted the center rail a flat black to try to hide the rail some.
Thinking back I think he weathered his switches as you don't want them out it the rain.
I wish I had a digital camera back then.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I'd suggest a track layout program, makes the what-if stage go much smoother!  I use AnyRail, but there are many others.

Rusty track? I have a bunch of it, cleaning it slowly.


----------



## mwpeber

AnyRail has a free version and a $59 version that says for "unlimited size". i assume the free version has a limited size but I cannot find it stated anywhere. Do you know what that limited size is?


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Yep, 50 pieces of track.


----------



## mwpeber

I'll give the track software a try and keep you posted on progress. I tried designing the layout using my SolidWorks software but that proved to be slow and painful so I aborted.


----------



## mwpeber

I decided to jump into putting up some benchwork. The track layout I'm working with is similar to what is on the ground. I started to design it using AnyRail but find it hard to get the inclines working right. I'll post what my plan is soon.


----------



## mwpeber

I've worked a bit more this evening.

I finished the leg supports and laid the OSB. I was going to use 1/2" plywood for the surface but couldn't bring myself to spend $20 a sheet. I ended up with 1/2" OSB for about $8 a sheet.


----------



## tjcruiser

MW,

Your benchwork looks great. Nice framing work ... light, strong, rigid. Those aren't just shims along the back wall, are they? Cleats for mounting something ... ???

Cheers,

TJ


----------



## mwpeber

They are attached to the 2x4 frame and will be used to attach 1/8" hardboard for a backdrop.

I also intend on attaching a 12" fascia or "skirt" that will wrap around the whole front surface.


----------



## mwpeber

*Transformers*

A switch to transformers. I have a collection of older transformers that I have inherited over the years and am trying to determine if they will work for my model railroad, or if I need to upgrade to something newer or more powerful. Here is a pic of the collection:















1)








2)








3)








4)








5)


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Well, the 1033 is a decent little transformer, and the AF one looks OK, what's the wattage on that one? The others appear to be well suited for running accessories, which is what I normally keep small transformers around for.

For conventional operation, you'll need two transformers, or a dual-control transformer. I'd start with what you have and see if you feel the need to upgrade.


----------



## mwpeber

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Well, the 1033 is a decent little transformer, and the AF one looks OK, what's the wattage on that one? The others appear to be well suited for running accessories, which is what I normally keep small transformers around for.
> 
> For conventional operation, you'll need two transformers, or a dual-control transformer. I'd start with what you have and see if you feel the need to upgrade.


The AF is 100W output with a 7-16V and 16V output.

I'm not too well schooled with the transformers...what is the purpose / function of a "dual-control" transformer (I assume like the 1033).

Thanks.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Actually, none of your transformers are dual-control. The second control on the 1033 is the whistle/direction control.

Transformers like the KW have two independent variable outputs for train control, each with a whistle control, see below. Note the two U connections and also the separate fixed voltage outputs for accessories.










Transformers like the Lionel ZW have four variable controls, though only two of them have whistle/direction switches. These have four variable outputs, the center two are normally used to power accessories, but can control additional trains as well since they are variable.


----------



## mwpeber

Getting ready to test my engines to see what grades they can handle, but having difficulty hooking up the Lionel 1033. I hook up U-A and cant seem to get anything (most of the time 0. When the black lever is straight at 12 o'clock I can sometimes vary the voltage with the red lever, but other times, its makes some crackling sounds, and at others (most of the time) nothing happens  Seems like something is loose

Otherwise between A-B I have a constant 4.2 V and between A-C I have a constant 15.3V.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Well, the levers are on the wrong sides, the red one should be on the left.  Leave the red one centered and move the black one to control voltage, the illustration below is full throttle.

There may be something wrong with the transformer, pop the top off with the four screws and take a look around.


----------



## mwpeber

I'll have to take a look into the Lionel 1033 but the AF seems to work great. I set up a little test rack for my son (almost 3 years old) because he has been waiting for "choo choos" to "go".


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

The only problem with the AF is it doesn't have a whistle switch, right?


----------



## mwpeber

*Whistle House*



gunrunnerjohn said:


> The only problem with the AF is it doesn't have a whistle switch, right?


I've got the whistle covered with what I call a "whistle house". I've wired it up to the constant 16V output and put a push button switch (just to the left of the transformer) in line so when the switch is depressed, the house whistles


----------



## mwpeber

I set up a test loop track to get things moving a bit. Boy is it loud when the trains get moving on the table!!! 









I've added a 4% incline (~4" over 9') switched off of the test track to see what my trains can pull. There doesn't seem to be much problem with 10 cars, but then again, that's all that will fit on the ramp.










Misc photo of some old rolling stock with just a few cabooses


----------



## mwpeber

*Layout Plan*

I spent a little time trying to experiment with SRCAM and put together a track plan. The basic elements of the plan that I am trying to integrate are as follows:
- ability to run 2 trains simultaneously around continuous loops.
- operation running around one loop as very simple without the need for switching so it can just run for the kids and be easy.
- multi-level with bridges and tunnels
- 1st loop to pretty much be single level and travel around a city and train yard.
- 2nd loop to switch off the first and have inclined switch back 2 or 3 times to get to a mining operation at the 'top'. 

The plan pics are a bit messy but here a few screenshots:


----------



## tjcruiser

Just a heads up to all ... SCARM software, not SCAM 

Be mindful of those very abrupt topography (ground elevation) changes inherent to your proposed layout. Doable, of course, but you're likely looking at a steep, rocky cliffside look, rather than a grassy hillside look.

cheers,

TJ


----------



## mwpeber

Thanks. I suppose leaving off the 'r' has some negative
Implications The software works pretty well.


----------



## mwpeber

I'm concerned with the turn around loop at the end of the run and not sure if it will work that well...anyone have experience with them or have thoughts? I suppose the alternative is to run a double track...sort of an out and back but that seems less efficient and uses a bit more space and track.


----------



## mwpeber

I thought I'd go back to the drawing board and work on getting my first loop laid out. I have basically a loop with two reversing sections; one of which serves as a stop at the station The track shown is all O27. 

I plant to work on switching off the loop that I have shown and transition into O for the second loop and 'mining' run.


----------



## mwpeber

*Lionel 634 Santa Fe Locomotive*

I have a naturally aged  Lionel 624 Santa Fe Locomotive I pulled out of an old trunk a few weeks ago and started running it on the track. Immediately, I noticed something wrong...very little traction..thus the magnets shown on the front and back of the frame  As I inspected the engine I noticed a missing part which I suppose is the magnetraction component? 

Now here's the question: Is this a single component that I can purchase and install? If so, where might I be able to find one?


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

What's the missing part you speak of? This model had no magna-traction.

Lionel 634 Santa Fe NW2 Switcher 1963 - 1966

They mention weights, but apparently they did little for the traction. What you are missing is the two traction tires on the inside wheels on the motor truck, they would make a large difference in traction!


----------



## mwpeber

I guess I thought i had this engine at this page on trains.com which states "magnetraction".

http://www.trainz.com/p-242250-lionel-634-santa-fe-nw-2-diesel-switcher-loco.aspx

"Here is a Lionel 634 Santa Fe EMD NW-2 Switcher from 1965-66. It features a powerful motor with magnetraction and 2-position E unit, headlight, plastic side frame trucks, and fixed knuckle couplers."


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Well, the axles don't look like the ones that are used for MagnaTraction, that's what I'm going on. The drive does look more like a 1960's one.

Here's two examples, the MagnaTraction axle has the brass bushing (non-magnetic) and the normal axle looks like yours. The plain hard steel axle can't have MagnaTraction.

This axle has MagnaTraction.










This axle does not have MagnaTraction.


----------



## mwpeber

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Well, the axles don't look like the ones that are used for MagnaTraction, that's what I'm going on. The drive does look more like a 1960's one.]
> 
> Thanks for your insight gunnerjohn. :thumbsup: With close inspection of the engine, it does use traction tires...just none are present. I'll have to pick some up.


----------



## mwpeber

I've worked on the track plan a bit more lately and have been experimenting with a few simple layouts on the bench. I have some manual O27 switches and I am becoming not to fond of them due to their lack of non-derailing features. I am finding it tedious to keep checking to make sure they are switched in the right direction. I think I'll reserve their use for sidings and pick up some non-derailing remote switches 

As for the layout planning see the following pics using SCARM:









































There is no elevation change in the blue mainline and grey switch-over tracks. On the far right side, the mainline splits and starts a long "switchback" incline to about 12" above base level over a total length of apx 700 inches. My max grade in a few spots is 2.5%, but most of it is below 2%.









A challenge I am still having is trying to figure out how I can run 2 looping trains simultaneously.

I welcome constructive  criticism.


----------



## mwpeber

I'd like to work in some sort of yard into the layout and the best place is shown in the pics. There is a bit of real estate there to use, but I just have to figure out how to get enough track in this area to make it worthwhile.

Is there a good rule of thumb for length of track in a yard for it to be useful?


----------



## mwpeber

*Track Plan In-Process*

Latest update on design:
I've been able to add in 2 reversing sidings off the main line at base level.
Still haven't worked in any track for a yard.
Next step is figuring out what type of buildings, industry, etc to place around the layout. 

Once again, please provide all your thoughts and suggestions on the good, bad, and ugly with the design.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Running multiple trains on the same line is easy with command/control, something to consider.


----------



## mwpeber

Any thoughts guys? My biggest concern is the tighter 27 inch curves on the inner track with longer trains. I've tried to include a 54 inch diameter section as an easement to any curve where possible making a 3 piece 90 deg turn (54,27,54). You spot any issues or opportunities with the layout?


----------



## mwpeber

Here are a few new images of the layout that I've been designing. I am realizing that the plan is ambitious (easy to do when its just in a program and "the sky is the limit"). But that's the fun of it. I guess I've always been known to go over the top on anything I do, so this is no exception. I'll post some pics of my progress on "the real thing" sometime soon. The black hole is an 18" round hole in the table for my little ones to poke their head up into and get closer to the action


----------



## mr_x_ite_ment

Hey mw...This is the first time I have seen the thread on your project. I LOVE your benchwork...very nicely done! My only concern would be the same one you have...the tighter inner curves. I don't think the length of the train is as much of a concern as the locomotive itself having a hard time navigating through it. I just looked now and see that the minimum radius for O gauge is 24 inches. Maybe the 27 inches will work all right, but it still seems a little tight to me. What about having two tracks that run parallel to each other around the outer edge of the benchwork? They could be on the same level, joined by a couple different turnouts, or they could be on different levels all-together, operated by two different transformers. You could go nuts on the inside of the layout with yards and spurs that are within reach. 

I love an ambitious undertaking as much as anyone. Above all, I like it to work well and flawlessly. When I built my first real layout, I made my one of my curves a bit too tight. Nothing was more "derailing" to me than to have everything else work well, except my one curve! I had already glued down roadbed, so it wasn't easy to change it. I look forward to watching your layout develop, and am eager to see what you decide on! Best of luck!

Chad


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

If the back and sides are against walls, I'd consider how you're going to reach that part when you have a derailment or just to work on the layout.


----------



## mwpeber

OK, so i've been on a little hiatus with summer but that is over. It's back to school and back to work...

I've taken the benchwork that I created earlier in the year and somewhat redesigned the track layout to try and avoid some of the pitfalls that my earlier designs had (many tight turns). I think I have a plan and design that works pretty well albeit you have to slow down through 2 O27 turns. I've attached fairly representative pics of the design I'm moving forward with. There is a total of apx 140 ft of track in the layout with 2 mainlines that can be switched between. Unfortunately I have no reversing switch and have not been able to figure that out without making my design look more like a pot of overdone spaghetti.

I've loosely laid all the track out but those pics will have to wait till later.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I like it in general, though the lack of a reversing loop is a shame. You might be able to hide it under one of the mountains. 

Can you get to trains in those tunnels? That's going to be the first place you have a problem if you can't reach them!


----------



## mwpeber

A design for the reversing loop was giving me the most trouble so I decided to ditch it  Wish the table was just a few feet bigger...

Also, plan to have an access hole under each mountain to reach the trains there which will double as a great place for the kids to watch the trains!


----------



## Big Ed

mwpeber said:


> Any thoughts guys? My biggest concern is the tighter 27 inch curves on the inner track with longer trains. I've tried to include a 54 inch diameter section as an easement to any curve where possible making a 3 piece 90 deg turn (54,27,54). You spot any issues or opportunities with the layout?



I did not read the whole thread yet but 54/27/54 won't work. It may hook together but the whole reason for the bigger curves is for the bigger trains to run on them.
If you do a 54/27/54 you will have derailments with the trains not meant for the 27's.

If you can you will want 54's on all the curves for the bigger trains.

I will go and look at the rest now.


----------



## Big Ed

mwpeber said:


> A design for the reversing loop was giving me the most trouble so I decided to ditch it  Wish the table was just a few feet bigger...
> 
> Also, plan to have an access hole under each mountain to reach the trains there which will double as a great place for the kids to watch the trains!


I just looked at your "pot of spaghetti".

You wish the table was a few feet bigger?
Add on a few feet then?
It looks like you have the room, just add it on?


----------



## mwpeber

LOL! I like how well your comments "add on a few feet" match your tag line "never enough room"

Well I need a bit more than a few more feet and future basement plans limit my size. Hard to resist the scope creep temptation but I think I'm going to stick with my current bench and work it out.


----------



## marzbarz

If you don't mind me asking the size difference between O or O27 and N scale? I am really starting to like the three rail system here. Correct me if I am wrong, but is the middle rail providing the power?


----------



## Big Ed

mwpeber said:


> LOL! I like how well your comments "add on a few feet" match your tag line "never enough room"
> 
> Well I need a bit more than a few more feet and future basement plans limit my size. Hard to resist the scope creep temptation but I think I'm going to stick with my current bench and work it out.


It was your comment " I wish I had a few feet more", a "few" feet would not be that hard to add on. It was your wish.



marzbarz said:


> If you don't mind me asking the size difference between O or O27 and N scale? I am really starting to like the three rail system here. Correct me if I am wrong, but is the middle rail providing the power?


http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=13797

There are more threads, but there is a picture in there to show you the difference.
Though they should have put something for size reference. Like a dollar bill, a quarter, a can of soda, or something for reference.


----------



## mwpeber

So here are a few pics of my progress. At this point nothing is 'nailed' down but just going for a dry fit. To my calculations, the max grade I have is apx 2.5% and I've tried to level it out around the turns. Next step is to start cutting some plywood and making it permanent so I can run some real trains through the mountains. So far I've just ran a little lightweight chassis throughout to get a feel for how the layout will operate.


----------



## marzbarz

Looks nice mwpeber


----------



## seabilliau

Have you run some loaded trains around the track? I am just asking to make sure. If you haven't already, I would play around with the track by running all different types of trains for a few days to really observe how well they climb and descend to make sure that it runs the way you want before you start plastering. Once you laydown that plaster there is no turning back. I'm sure you have but I just wanted to put that out there.

Otherwise, it looks great!


----------



## Big Ed

I agree with Sea's comment, though it will be hard to test the inclines because they are not permanently attached yet.

First I like it. :thumbsup:
But why the curve/jog on the back stretch second picture?
Did you calculate the grade percent?

If you run an engine to test, the track should be secure first. 
Then just running an engine is different then running a whole train. 
As is running a short train is different then running a long train on the grades.
I guess you really won't know till it is done, test before the mountains go up.

I hope it works out.:thumbsup:


Edit,
I see a lot of space under the go blue banner.:thumbsup:


----------



## Cape T/A

Cool looking layout, I cant wait to see it finished.


----------



## mwpeber

Like you said big ed, I really can't test out too much right now with the engine or cars because the track isn't secure. The max grade I've calculated is apx 2.5% in a few places but I'm going to try to reduce that as it becomes permanent. I don't think the total elevation change needs to be quite as much as it currently is (11"). 

The jog curve in the back is a result of not having enough straight track left and and just 4 O72 curves. I'll probably straighten that out before the track is final.


----------



## mwpeber

I'm experimenting with some superelevation on the mainline tracks. I've cut a number of shims at 5 degrees and installed them under the tracks. It seems to work great and look cool, but I'm thinking this is more than needed and not quite representative to prototype.

Anyone have experience with superelevating O gauge track?

















Oh...and a new police car hauler my son (got for his birthday) to play with Fully loaded with the 4 cast steel cars :thumbsup:


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I tried it, and it did allow considerably faster lap times around my test loop, but since I don't really see the need for high speed passes, I don't see a great amount of utility.


----------



## tjcruiser

mwpeber said:


> Anyone have experience with superelevating O gauge track?


We've had some discussions on it here:

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=6084

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=3736

Regards,

TJ


----------



## mwpeber

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I tried it, and it did allow considerably faster lap times around my test loop, but since I don't really see the need for high speed passes, I don't see a great amount of utility.


You obviously don't have a 3 year old son who loves to 'give it more power'


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Actually, I have a 7 year old grandson that has the same inclination.  I set a speed limit on anything he runs so that we won't have track departures.


----------



## mwpeber

How do you manage to do that? Some adjustable voltage limiter between the transformer and the track connection?


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

mwpeber said:


> How do you manage to do that? Some adjustable voltage limiter between the transformer and the track connection?


I have the Legacy command system, as well as the MTH DCS system. Both allow you to configure a maximum speed for each locomotive in the system.


----------



## mwpeber

Time for an update all!

I have found some free time over the holidays to continue layout work. I think it is coming along pretty good. Most of the track is secure and trains seem to be running pretty good throughout both loops. Unfortunately the only two problem spots seem to be the automatic switches on the outer loops. Periodically the trains will stop and short the system out??? Anyway, here are a few pics of the progress (sorry for the poor quality as they were off my phone).


----------



## tjcruiser

Very nice progress.

I really love the curved front (gray) facia piece of your layout. Very inviting, and not the normal straight boring plywood edge at all.

Cheers,

TJ


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Great looking layout, and I think the kid in the middle thinks so too!


----------



## mwpeber

That is my little helper. He would spend all day down working on the trains if I had the time ...and I would love to as well!


----------



## mwpeber

OK. Jan 2013 + 1 year and I'm back. Here's a few new photos of progress over the last year. The track plan is fairly solid; just a little tweaking on the top. We've started working on some and planning areas for cities and buildings. As you can see, we had to create an "upper level" for the, what is for now the 'X-mas town. I got carried away with track and had to make room for buildings :laugh:


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Looking really good now, very good progress! I love the multi-level aspect of the layout. :thumbsup:


----------



## mwpeber

So how do you like the giant sequoia? 

After our trip out to Yosemite this past summer we thought about the trees on the train set. If we designed a sequoia to actual O scale I'm pretty sure the tree would be over 8 feet tall making it go through the ceiling! The 'mini' x-mas tree isn't a bad compromise for some temporary fun.


----------



## sjm9911

Looking good. Nice job!


----------



## mwpeber

Before closing in the tunnel, I'd like to run some LEDs in the tunnel; maybe just one light every 6 inches or so. I have some 3 color LEDs that I've been playing around with and think they will work. I'm just now trying to figure out how to run 5 or 6 of them at the same time, power them and provide an on/off switch.

Any suggestions?


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

What's the purpose of the multi-color diodes? Are you wanting some sort of rainbow effect?


----------



## mwpeber

I'm really only concerned with the red light (As I write this I'm wondering if blue or green would be better?) I'm planning to us the multi-colored LEDs just because that is what I have. Two of the leads will just be unused. The lights use about 20mA and are 2 volts each so as I string them together the voltage adds up. I have a 12V 600mA AC/DC adapter that I was thinking of using to power them.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I suggest you not try to reach the limit of the supply, but rather string about five of them in series and then use a current limiting resistor.

You do know that red LED's are dirt cheap, right?


----------



## trains galore

Hi, nice layout:thumbsup:
I'd consider just getting some red leds, those bi colour ones aren't always that cheap
I'd wire them in paralell, just put a resistor in to limit the current or make a little voltage regulator circuit to drop the voltage down to 3v, 
(By the way this isn't my diagram )


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I don't see any reason to wire them in parallel, with that supply you sketched out, the transistor is dissipating 27 watts if you actually get 3 amps out of the supply! That's a lot of wasted power for no good reason.

Five or six Red LED's in series will be much more efficient and work just as well. Each LED drops about 1.5-1.7 volts, and if you have 12VDC available, perhaps a nice little CL2 20ma constant current regulator would be a nice choice for current limiting.


----------



## trains galore

True actually, it'd get pretty hot
So wire them in series I guess, as long as you have a resistor or enough of them that you won't burn them out

I wired all mine in paralell on my layout, but I guess only because if one of them dies it won't take out the whole circuit seeing as they are bulbs.
I don't think you need to worry about that with leds though?
Good luck


----------



## mwpeber

Thanks _trains galore_. I'm working on trying to understand the circuit you provided. I plan to dig into it sometime soon when I've got a free evening (just finishing up classes for the semester right now and that's taking me out). I picked up a pack of 50 of the multi-colored LEDs from Amazon for less than $5 and was playing around with them with the kids. Pretty neat stuff and maybe I'll just get some red ones for the project when the time is right.

As far as strategy I was thinking of running strings of 5 or so in series in different places around the setup and being operational with a switch. All the series strings would be run in parallel from some power supply. That's the basis of my thinking and now its the details to work out...


----------



## mwpeber

Been having some fun with a new toy as well (Printerbot 3D printer). 

Portals similar to this design may be in the future of my layout, but for the time being I made these for my father-in-law's N gauge layout.


----------



## trains galore

What voltage is your power supply, if you plan on having lots of lights it's a good idea to have a seperate supply otherwise it may affect running of the trains if you run it from the controller

I agree on breaking it up into circuits, wire them in groups in series, then connect the loops all together in paralell. If you put 8 leds in series you can power it with 12v, standard supply


----------

