# Roadbed, cork vs ???



## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

I currently have my bench work built, track plan drawn out, ready for roadbed. I was thinking about using homostate, (I don't know the official name of it), instead of cork. My reasoning is I can cut out the entire track plan on one sheet of homostate therefore having no seams or joints to smooth out, since the layout is only 4x6. What I don't know is how does this compare to traditional cork, and what the difference would be in smoothness of the running of the trains. Any advice god or bad would be greatly appreciated.:dunno:


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

In general, HemoSite would be inferior IMO. It absorbs moisture and swells and degrades.


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## Bkubiak (Oct 20, 2013)

I used that Black Foam from woodland scenics, I think it looks good and almost appears to be ballasted, you gotta glue the track down to it tho.


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## Chet (Aug 15, 2014)

I started my layout over 30 years ago using Homasote (Homabed) for roadbed and wouldn't consider using anything else after having excellent results with it. I started the layout handlaying code 70 track, but had to complete the layout with Shinohara code 70 flextrack and turnouts. The roadbed was glued to half and five eights plywood sub roadbed. Homabed easily accepts spikes and holds them well and is easy to work with. I haven't had a single issue with it in all these years.










Here's the website for the California Roadbed Co. http://www.homabed.com/site/890800/


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

As usual, there is no right and wrong for road bed. There are 
preferences that each of us have. My brother uses cork
roadbed on his layout, I use the W/S foam roadbed. It is
reusable. I tore out my first layout, used a wide putty knife
to loosen the glue and was able to salvage most of it for
the new layout. It is also sound deadening.

Homasote does, in my opinion, make a good base top over
plywood, especially if you plan to use spikes to hold your
track. You can use a pliers and push them in. However, wouldn't
it take a lot of sawing to make a road bed from it?

I have the W/S foam in some of my yard. I later discovered that
Walmart has a 1/4" paper covered foam that comes in black, white
and other colors. I prefer it in black for yard 'road bed'. It's also very
inexpensive.

Don


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Another vote for WS foam roadbed. I use adhesive latex caulk to glue it down, and have never had an ounce of trouble. Of course, I also glue my track down with caulk; foam won't hold spikes or nails.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Roadbed options and opinions*

A&NRR;

As you can see by all the responses, there are many different opinions on roadbed types.
In fact any of the materials will work fine. My personal choice is luan plywood cut to straight and curved sections, but that's just my individual choice. 
Your plan for using Homosote because it comes in big sheets, and the roadbed for the entire railroad can be cut in one large piece; seems a bit flawed to me. Cutting a complete track outline for even a small railroad would be a lot of cutting. Granted, it's quite possible, using a saber saw with a fine tooth blade, but why do that at all? Joints between sections of any type roadbed are not a problem, as long as you're reasonably careful about matching end heights.
No "master cabinet maker" cutting skills are required; far from it.
If you do chose to use sheet Homosote; just be aware that cutting it produces a lot of dust. I recommend goggles, and a dust mask for that operation.
Homabed, as recommended is a commercial product with all the major cutting done for you at the factory. This makes it easier to use.
You may want to check out a video on roadbed types called something like "My boys and me, foam vs. cork." It's on either the N scale or H.O. scale section of this forum.

Whatever type you choose, don't worry. Have fun!

Traction Fan


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## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

Thanks for everybody's input, it cleared up a lot about using Homosote. I've used Midwest cork with the prefab turnout sections in the past and it worked well for a small size layout. I'm always up to trying new techniques and ideals. 
It's funny about the Luan plywood, I was in Lowes looking at it wondering if it would work. My benchwork is tabletop style with no grades as 1/2 birch plywood for my base on top of 1x3 framing. I'm either going to try the Luan ply or go back to the tried and true cork method. I've never used the W.S. foam, might be time to give it a try.


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## Water Stop (Apr 18, 2015)

I use no roadbed.

I spike my ties directly to the hard OSB panels that my layout is built on. The advantage I like with this method is the sound is transmitted from the track throughout the surface of the OSB, making a nice, "freight -train" racket as it rolls along my 122 feet of main line.

Freight trains are noisy-rolling, and this is how I enhance that sound! 

Water Stop


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

I have a 3/8" plywood table top with 2" of pink extruded foam and 1/2" Homasote covering the whole thing. I am using Woodland Scenic's foam roadbed glued with latex caulk to the Homasote. The WS roadbed is only 3/16" thick, so track nails can easily reach the Homasote if that's how you want to fasten your track. You just push the nails in with a pair of needle nosed pliers. The Homasote holds nails very securely. Just be sure you do not push them in too far or you will distort the ties and change the gauge of your track.
Then nasty things happen.
Cutting Homasote, as mentioned earlier, creates dust. LOTS and LOTS of dust! Goggles and respiratory protection are mandatory. I would suggest, rather than a dust mask, a good dual cartridge respirator. Once that stuff is in your lungs, it's in there for a long time. You should do your cutting outside.


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## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

Thanks so much for everybody's advice, I'm taking in everything from everybody. I've been painting cars for 32 years so I know all to well about protecting my lungs from the dust that homasote makes, I'm going to stay clear of that method. I'm leaning towards using luan plywood, it would be a lot of cutting but that doesn't scare me. I have my good 'ole craftsman jig saw and the patience of Job. The 2" pink extruded foam must be a northern item, (no offense). I would love to use it to create ditches and land below the track. Down here in Southeast Texas I can't find that stuff anywhere.


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## Chet (Aug 15, 2014)

The nice thing about the Homabed is that everything is already cut and ready to go. The only cutting involved would be done with a utility knife. Never had a dust problem with it.


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## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

I did go on that homabed site you posted, it looks like some really good stuff that's easy to use. I think on a large layout that'd be the way to go. Maybe I'm just over thinking to much, but come Saturday some kind of roadbed is going down regardless.


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

A&NRR said:


> The 2" pink extruded foam must be a northern item, (no offense). I would love to use it to create ditches and land below the track. Down here in Southeast Texas I can't find that stuff anywhere.


Our Home Depot in Alabama carries it. Search for 2" Foam Insulation. Sometimes they don't have it in stock and you have to order it to be delivered to the store.


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## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

I'll check out my local Home Depot and see if they can get it for me. Thanks for the tip.


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## Mr. SP (Jan 7, 2015)

*Roadbed*

It was cork on my railroad. Then Atlas code 100 N-S Flex track. Then Woodland Scenic's Ballast.
The ballast was a mix of one part dark brown, one part light brown and two parts buff. I used the bonded ballast method to stick it down.


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## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

Looks good SP, I've done the same in the past with cork and bonded ballast method. I was always pleased with the results. I'm using Atlas code 83 flex track, custom line turnouts with caboose industry switch stands.


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