# Engine rus backward only



## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

How do I solve this problem. I have reversed the leads, tried the reverse direction switch on the power supply, etc...

History:

I had a Bachmann 3 car 1 engine set given to me years ago with the fast track.

I didn't get into the hobby at the time but I am starting now. I ordered a Bach. 4-6-0 steamer. Before the Atlas track was ordered I set up a small oval of the fast track and the engine ran forward and reverse.

When I got the Atlas track, I set up a 2x3 rectangular track. I hooked the Atlas leads to the Bach. power pack aux.tabs and got power and the engine ran backward. I tried the direction switch and it was still running in reverse. I swapped the lead connections to the power pack and still in reverse.

P.S. I can't understand the directions to make this DCC - the directions say "cut this" -- "solder that".... 

I can build devices with a 555 timer but these directions are terrible and I don't want to screw up a perfectly new engine!

Thanks in advance for any help!

Stephen


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## GNfan (Jun 3, 2016)

I'm surprised it runs at all - the Aux connectors on a Bachmann power pack are AC for powering turnouts and accessories. If your Bachmann power pack is simple analog DC and so is your locomotive, you're going to have to cut Bachmann's connector off their power cable, strip the ends, and connect those to the Atlas track.


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

ac / dc dont mix ends in a boom or smoke show 
unless your rockin out with the radio full blast hahahahaha


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

*Thank You!*

I just looked at the power supply and --- yes the output is AC! Guess I've got some studying to do. Simple answer. 

Any thoughts on the DCC wiring on the engine? 

Stephen


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Stephen

It's not at all clear whether your new loco
is DCC or plain DC.

Since you ordered it new, the box and
instructions should tell you.

If they say DCC ON BOARD, or DCC DECODER
INSTALLED, or other similar phrases, it
already has the decoder installed.

HOWEVER, if the box and instructions say
DCC READY, It is DC but requires only a 
plug in decoder to become DCC.

Older models may indeed require that
the decoder wires be soldered.

Tell us what you find and we can go from there.

Don


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

*Thanks Don*

The description on Amazon says: "DCC Equipped for speed, direction and lighting" Also states "Dual mode NMRA - compliant decoder"

The directions are not clear on how to go to DCC mode. There are 6 solder points and it implies that a piece of wire need to connect 3. No real explanation or direction for a first timer.

Stephen


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

*Thanks Don Continued*

I also meant to include that it is a Bach. Baldwin 4-6-0 priced on Amazon at $129. There is a decent description if you scroll down far enough.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Stephen

Per your last post you have a dual mode locomotive. The decoder
is already installed, you need not do anything
further. No cutting or soldering required.

You can run this locomotive with the
Power pack you earlier mentioned. Connect
the track to the terminals marked TRACK.

You can select FWD or REV to determine
direction, and the control will determine speed.

If, in the future, you buy a DCC controller it will
power this loco.

Don


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## Bwells (Mar 30, 2014)

Excellent posts Don, clear, concise, and to the point. Well done.


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## GNfan (Jun 3, 2016)

His problem (as I understand it) is that some Bachmann "starter set" power packs don't have DC terminals. The DC comes from a round jack that mates to an audio plug on their power cable. The other end of the power cable has an odd flat connector that mates to the EZ-track "terminal/rerailer"; which supplies power to the rails. The easiest way to use this with any track other than Bachmann EZ-track is to start by chopping that flat black connector off. If you're using Atlas sectional track, just strip each wire and then solder each one to a rail joiner.


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## Bwells (Mar 30, 2014)

Is this what you are referring to? It is still DC right?
https://www.amazon.com/Bachmann-Tra...reative=165953&creativeASIN=B0006KQH6K&m=ATVP


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## GNfan (Jun 3, 2016)

What comes with a Bachmann starter set is curved, but it's the same idea. (That one must be HO BTW: - all N scale EZ-track is nickel-silver.) And I see the two fork-style connectors which imply they connect to a power pack with screws. OK. I have two ~5 year old Bachmann 46605A power packs out of Amazon.com N scale starter sets, and on both of them the connection labelled "TO TRACK" looks like the headphone jack on my old I-pod. And if Stephen has a 46605A power pack with the cable I showed (that pic is from Bachmann's online store) and wants to use it with Atlas track; then I've already described the most direct route.


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

*Finally Running Forward*

Thanks to Don, GNfan, BWells, DonR

I got home from work about 4:00 (PST) and first thing I did was to cut the Bach. cord and splice in the Atlas wires. It is working but seems not to be very powerful. I am only pulling a 60' Pullman and caboose --- but also on a very quick track setup. I hope I dint mess it up running backward on AC! or something like this:






DCC issue - I downloaded the Bach. app for iPhone and it doesn't see the engine. I just looked at the instructions again and it was a standard printed sheet showing how to install a decoder. I don't need that. It confused me when I first saw it. I thought there were adjustments required.

Since this is going to be my first build that I will later donate to a hospital with an acrylic cover, I still have a lot of questions.. if you guys don't mind.....

I bought cork track bed and foam track bed from Woodland Scenics. What do you Pros like better?

Once again Thanks! I'm gonna love this forum!

Stephen
Near Jamestown CA home of the Back to the Future 3 train:


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## GNfan (Jun 3, 2016)

I got a video of a monkey riding a pig!


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

Backward


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

Title of this thread. Engine running backward/reverse


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

Stephen said:


> Thanks to Don, GNfan, BWells, DonR
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Stephen;

I'm glad to hear that you got your train running, and in the right direction too! :laugh: 
This hobby can be quite confusing, when you first get into it. There is a learning curve for model railroading, just like anything else. 
The links attached below my screen name, are to some articles that I've written for people just starting out, like you are now. I think they may help you understand things a bit better. I'm also going to recommend a pair of good books to you. They are, "Getting Started in Model Railroading" by Jeff Wilson, and "Basic DCC wiring" by Mike Polsgrove. You can order either, or both, from https://kalmbachhobbystore.com/products/books 
The first book explains a lot, about many model railroading subjects, in clear, simple, text and many color photos. It should be a very different experience for you after your adventures with Bachmann's information sources. :laugh:
The second book tells you all you would ever likely need to know about DCC. Again, clear, simple explanations, and many photos.
When you get to the point where are ready to buy a DCC system, I recommend the NCE Powercab. It's simple to hook up, (two wires) simple to program, and simple to operate. All the electronics are in one piece, which you can hold in your hand. I use this system and I like it a lot. 

Welcome to the forum!

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:

View attachment WHERE DO I START rev 4.pdf


View attachment 1 How to build a better first layout.pdf


View attachment 2 How to build a better first layout.pdf


View attachment 3 & 4 How to build a better first layout.pdf


View attachment 5 How to build a better first layout.pdf


View attachment 6 How to build a better first layout.pdf


View attachment All AboutTurnouts rev 4.pdf


View attachment MODEL RAILROADING ON A BUDGET.pdf


View attachment Model Railroad Terminology 2.2.pdf


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

Traction Fan..

Thanks for the post! I just ordered the books you suggested. Like I said before, I'm looking forward to the help from this forum and sharing my trials and tribulations....Everyone here has been great!

Stephen. 

Stephen


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

P.S. I was wondering where I would have the space for a good layout.....I just replied my tenant is moving out of the studio apt. above my garage --- so after cleanup the real build begins---planning and 8 x 8 layout freestyle.


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

I just replied should be "realized"


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

ohhhh another layout build , waiting waiting hahahahahahah we need pics man lots of them hahahahahaha


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## prrfan (Dec 19, 2014)

Cork vs. foam roadbed: It’s really a matter of personal preference. Either one works fine.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Stephen said:


> I just replied should be "realized"


You know you can edit your own posts, right?

Look at your post -- there should be an "Edit" button in the lower right corner. You can edit up to an hour or so after you post, and there will be no trace of the edit; after that, there is a note at the bottom of your post that you edited it. You can include a reason if you want.

Anyway, we're always glad to help a newcomer get up and running. Once you think you know what kind of a track plan you're going to put in that loft, post a sketch of it, and we can give you some pointers on what might cause trouble, or what might work better.


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

*Thanks for the board advice CT*

Here is my genesis. Everything works fine...except the link from my iPhone using the Bach. DCC app. Simply no connection...???!

Notice the noisy Bach. Fast track in the background....and the Bach. starter kit engine the works fine. DC only- can I dd a decoder? See fotos below.


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

prrfan -- which do you prefer for longevity?


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

*Fotos*

I meant to attach the photo to my Genisis comment:
Genisis.jpg


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

*Forum protocol*

Guess I need to learn how to post a simple jpg


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## prrfan (Dec 19, 2014)

Stephen said:


> prrfan -- which do you prefer for longevity?


I personally have not used foam but other members have and from what I remember they seem to like it. Both should be durable for the long term. 

I had a cork roadbed layout for about 5 years and it was fine. If you take the time to lay track carefully the layout should be good for a long while. 
The members who have foam roadbed can probably give you more details on it.


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## prrfan (Dec 19, 2014)

CTValleyRR said:


> Stephen said:
> 
> 
> > I just replied should be "realized"
> ...


I noticed the OP mentioned something about an iPhone. If you are posting on an iPhone the editing process is different. 

If you look at your post there is a square in the upper right hand corner. Click that square and it will bring up some different icons. The pencil icon will allow you to edit the post. 
I noticed that there are a lot of differences between devices when using this forum. It’s easier with a desk top or lap top than it is with a phone.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Decent space*



Stephen said:


> P.S. I was wondering where I would have the space for a good layout.....I just replied my tenant is moving out of the studio apt. above my garage --- so after cleanup the real build begins---planning and 8 x 8 layout freestyle.



Stephen;

Eight feet by eight feet is a decent sized space for a layout. In fact some forum members would be jealous, since they have less space. 

Here are some things to consider as you plan your layout. 

Your profile doesn't mention what area of the country, and therefore what sort of climate, you live in.
A space above a garage can be blistering hot in summer, and freezing cold in winter. Since you had a tenant living there, I'm assuming you have heat, and air conditioning, up there, so temperature may not be a concern.
Humidity can also be a problem with a model railroad. A lot of it is made of wood, and wood warps in a humid environment. Again, this depends on where you are, and what the local weather conditions are. If you do have high humidity, as in the Southeastern U.S.A., then you may need a dehumidifier, at least in the winter, when you won't be running the air conditioner. You can also build some "warp proofing" into your layout by making all the wood pieces as 'L'-girders, rather than just flat planks. Painting all the wood also helps keep moisture out. The files I sent you describe how to make an 'L'-girder. It's basically a wooden version of an "angle iron."

Once you have the indoor climate stabilized, and adequate lighting (again, this is likely to already be in place.) The next thing to consider is how to best use the space you have.

The very common 4'x 8' train table would take up half your space, and be difficult to move, when you had to clean the track at the back side. It's not practical to lean over a 4' deep table to put a train back on the track, clean the rails, etc. These fun chores will come up much more often than you might suppose!  

I recommend an around-the-walls shelf layout, no more than 2' deep. That way you will have the option of continuous running, and will still be able to reach everything easily. You might consider mounting this layout near your seated eyeball height. That way you can have a realistic, "trackside" view of passing trains, while seated in a rolling office chair, and by simply standing up, be able to reach anything that needs attention.
This around-the-room shelf configuration will be especially appropriate If the garage roof slope reduces the ceiling height near the edges of the room. Working bent over is no fun at all! 

I don't know if you have read the files I sent you yet, but they contain a lot of information about building such a shelf layout.
One feature I strongly recommend, for any model railroad, regardless of shape, is sectional construction.
Apart from the obvious advantage of being able to take your railroad with you, if/when you move to another home, sections will be easier to work on as well.  The files explain these factors too.

I'm also going to suggest that you consider getting away from that Bachmann EZ-track, and using flex track for your garage layout. EZ-track is expensive, has limited curve radii available, and the EZ-track turnouts (track switches) have a very poor reputation for reliability, and they are also very expensive. 

Good luck. Have fun! Ask any questions that come up.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Posting photos*



Stephen said:


> Guess I need to learn how to post a simple jpg



Stephen;

Directions for attaching photos to your posts are in the "Forum News, Updates, and Help" section.

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

*Layout & misc.*

Traction Fan - Thanks for the photo advice and especially the layout concerns. I decided to scale this down a little (Pun intended)... I decided to go ta a 4'x8' with a longitudinal split at 2 ft. - I want to donate this to a hospital or somewhere after it is built.

For now I am wondering why the Bach. 4-6-0 wobbles on the Atlas track. Other than that the 60' Pullman cars don't like the corners at a 9 3/4 radius--I guess like the real world-- the wheels squeal. I will be designing the layout with these issues in mind. I really want to achieve a silent running layout - track wise.

All of you have a big help already!
Stephen :thumbsup:


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

*DCC Starter Kit*

Traction Fan,

I followed your advice and just ordered a NCE stater kit. Specifically NC-524-025 from Amazon (the one in a red case for $185). I'm looking forward to going full bore on the railroad.

CYValleyRR - I wish I could edit my original post title-- forgot the "n" in "runs" hwell:


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## bewhole (Dec 31, 2016)

Stephen said:


> Traction Fan,
> 
> I followed your advice and just ordered a NCE stater kit. Specifically NC-524-025 from Amazon (the one in a red case for $185). I'm looking forward to going full bore on the railroad.
> 
> CYValleyRR - I wish I could edit my original post title-- forgot the "n" in "runs" hwell:


I have never seen one packaged like that before.
This the one??
https://www.amazon.com/NCE-Power-Cab-All-System/dp/B009AVJQOG


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

*Red Box*

Yeah that is the one. I'll comment on it when I receive it.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Two separate layouts?*



Stephen said:


> Traction Fan - Thanks for the photo advice and especially the layout concerns. I decided to scale this down a little (Pun intended)... I decided to go ta a 4'x8' with a longitudinal split at 2 ft. - I want to donate this to a hospital or somewhere after it is built.
> 
> For now I am wondering why the Bach. 4-6-0 wobbles on the Atlas track. Other than that the 60' Pullman cars don't like the corners at a 9 3/4 radius--I guess like the real world-- the wheels squeal. I will be designing the layout with these issues in mind. I really want to achieve a silent running layout - track wise.
> 
> ...





Stephen;

I've gotten the impression, from your posts, that you have two separate layouts in mind.
One to donate to a hospital (Very nice of you, but check with them to see if they actually want it, before building it.) The second layout would be your own, to keep, and would be built in an 8'x8' space above your garage. Do I have that right?
The advice I gave you about an around-the-room shelf layout was intended only for the over-the-garage layout in that 8'x8' space. I did not attempt to advise you about the hospital layout, since I thought you already had that figured out, and possibly already built. 
If the hospital layout is not built yet, I suggest you go one step further in your "scaling down" sectional approach. You said you were going to cut the 4'x8' layout lengthwise, and end up with two 8'x2' pieces. My suggestion is to cut those two 8'x2' sections into four 2'x4' sections. They would be easier to get through doors, up stairways, and around corners than something eight feet long. That's your option, of course. If the hospital agrees to accept the layout, they would have oversize doors and elevators designed to handle the "gurneys" (rolling stretchers) used to transport patients. They would not likely have problems moving the 2'x8' sections in. Just out of curiosity, what do you plan to make the clear cover for this layout from? 

As for your problems with track noise, and that wobbling Bachmann 4-6-0 locomotive, here are some thoughts. 
Check the wheel flanges on that 4-6-0 loco. Are they deep enough to hit the oversize spike detail on the Atlas track? 
I've been modeling in N-scale for over 40 years, so I can remember the early N-scale equipment that came with very deep wheel flanges that we nicknamed "pizza cutters." Those were supposed to have passed into history, but I remember one guy, (I think it may have been KO improbable) writing in to the forum about a newer Bachmann locomotive that had deep flanges, that were causing him problems. I have never been much of a Bachmann fan. I remember, all too well, their early offerings which were, frankly, junk. I've read here that their newer production is much improved, but I'm still leary of them. The last Bachmann locos I bought, several years ago, were some "Spectrum series" F-units. They looked good, and were sort of OK runners, but not in the same class as Kato's F-units. My locomotives are nearly all Kato brand. Kato's quality is excellent across the board. (Note: Some "Atlas" brand locomotives are actually made by Kato. They may have "Kato" stamped on the bottom of the loco.)

If your 4-6-0 is not hitting the spikes on the Atlas track, then it may be "out-of-gauge", or possibly even "out-of-quarter", though the latter is unlikely. Does that loco also wobble when it runs on the Bachmann EZ-Track? If it does, then the problem is in the locomotive. You may be able to send it back to Bachmann for replacement. They have a "lifetime guarantee" on all their locomotives, but you still have to pay them some fee.

On the other hand, if your loco does not wobble on the EZ-Track, only on the Atlas track, then I'm guessing your Atlas track is code 55, right? Some deep flanged wheels don't work on Atlas brand code 55 track, because of that oversize (gigantic actually) spike detail, and the lower code 55 rail. With freight, or passenger, cars, the fix is easy, replace those pizza cutter wheels with aftermarket, shallow flange, wheels from Fox Valley Models, Intermountain, or Micro-Trains. You can't do that with locomotive wheels though.
You could switch to Micro Engineering brand flex track, which has spikes small enough to tolerate pizza cutter wheels. Or you could use Atlas code 80 track. It's giant rails are high enough to work with pizza cutters. Or you could switch to a better locomotive that has normal size, shallow-flanged, wheels.

One tool you need to get, soon, is an NMRA standards gauge. You can order one from www.modeltrainstuff.com 
This can measure many important things on a model railroad. First, the "gauge"(distance between the two rails) of the track. It can also check the gauge of the wheels. This may be why your 4-6-0 wobbles. It can also check wheel flange depth. It can also check a lot of critical measurements on turnouts. (track switches)
When it comes time to buy turnouts, I highly recommend buying Peco brand, or Micro Engineering brand turnouts. Both are excellent quality. Pecos are more rugged, and come in a wide variety of shapes & sizes. M/E turnouts only come in #6 right and # 6 left.
I strongly recommend NOT using Atlas "Snap Switch", code 80, turnouts. They are simply the worst choice available! Atlas code 55 turnouts are a good deal better than the "Snap Switches", but not anywhere near as good as Peco or Micro Engineering.

For N-scale, 9-3/4" radius is a very tight curve. My own N-scale layout has a minimum radius of 16" for comparison. At the very least go to 11" radius, if you elect to stick with Atlas sectional track. (Not recommended. Flex track offers any radius you want, and costs less too.) When You plan your garage layout use the biggest radius you can fit, and use easements at the entrance, and exit, of all mainline curves.

Completely silent track is difficult/impossible to achieve. (Assuming you mean with a train running on it!  )
One thing that can help is strong, rigid, sub roadbed construction. I use 1/4" thick luan plywood with 3/4"x 1/4" pine beams along both sides, and glued to the bottom of the sub-roadbed. This results in sub-roadbed that is essentially a continuous deck girder bridge, so it's super strong, and doesn't vibrate to act as a "sounding board." On top of this I use 1/8" thick luan plywood as roadbed.
You will here a lot, both here on the forum, and elsewhere, about the "sound deadening" qualities of cork, foam, or homosote, roadbed. They are all good sound insulators when bare, and when the track is glued, rather than nailed, down. However, most of us ballast our track, and some nail it down. When either of those things are done, the ballast, glued together, transmits sound right around the roadbed, no matter which kind, and on down to the sub-roadbed. Track nails create a perfect sound-carrying path from track right down to the sub-roadbed, or plywood sheet. If you want more sound reduction, first, glue, don't nail, the track down. Latex caulk makes a good glue for this job. You could go further by glueing homasote, acoustic ceiling tile, or foam rubber, to the bottom of the sub-roadbed to dampen its ability to vibrate. Another sound deadening idea is using extruded foam insulation board on top of, or instead of, plywood for a layout base. The foam is light, strong, and easy to carve into scenery contours. It's become very popular with model railroaders for those reasons, the sound deadening is just a bonus side benefit. Unfortunately it can be hard to find in sunny California. Back east, on the frozen tundra, it's sold in every home improvement store, but not out here.  The foam is used as home insulation. Apparently no one has figured out that insulation can keep heat out of a house as well as cold. :dunno:

Good Luck, Have Fun!

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Can't edit up here.*



Stephen said:


> Traction Fan,
> 
> I followed your advice and just ordered a NCE stater kit. Specifically NC-524-025 from Amazon (the one in a red case for $185). I'm looking forward to going full bore on the railroad.
> 
> CYValleyRR - I wish I could edit my original post title-- forgot the "n" in "runs" hwell:


Stephen;

Yup! Once you type a title and his save, you can't go back and edit the title, as you can edit the content of the post. I also have never seen the NCE Powercab in a red box. You may be able to attach the bottom part of that red box to your garage layout to use as a Powercab holder.

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

Nor have I. I wonder if that's something new NCE is doing.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Stephen said:


> CTValleyRR - I wish I could edit my original post title-- forgot the "n" in "runs" hwell:


Well, they have to be able to trip you up somehow..


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

*Lot's of Info from Traction Fan!*

Traction,

I'll answer some questions and explain what I am thinking a little better.

I'll try to follow the order of your post.

I'm a beginner and want to use the 4x8 platform as a learning curve although I would pay attention to detail of course. I would start with the 4x8 layout to gain more experience. I have already decided to use as much flex track as possible (Code 80). I kinda started by purchasing rolling stock for the beginner set my friend gave me for Christmas 8 years ago with the intention of building a permanent layout---someday: which begins now!!!

Yes I agree the 2x8 would be clumsy and I was still scratching my head on that... I did read an article years ago about people making 2x4 units so at a show events everyone could hook theirs with another event participant to make a large impromptu display. I think I'll do one of those eventually. The 2x4 option is on the table (Pun intended again) for the 4x8 I plan to donate to someone that wants it, hospital or otherwise. I am going to base the design on Tuolumne County, CA since that is where I live, in Sonora, next Jamestown where the "Back to the Future" train is. ( I moved here 5 years ago from the San Francisco peninsula--and loving it! People are normal here!). More on Tuolumne County in a minute. For now I'm going to us Code 80 for the 4x8 practice layout. My thought is if I donate to a respectable place it should hold up better with less derailments.


Wobbling was a simple fix. I was sitting on the sofa, eye level with the dining table, and looked at the set running and noticed the engine looked like an overloaded pickup truck. The cowl was not on completely. Duh- problem solved and runs good now. Based on your advice I will look at Kato F series.

Bach. EZ Track is terrible for modelers and super noisy! I'll never use that. I bought an Atlas track layout kit never intending to build the layout. I just wanted the track in various sizes. It will serve me well with all different lengths of straight pcs., etc...

Thanks for the heads up on the turnouts. Two manual turnouts came with the track layout I bought for pieces and will pay attention to your advice. On the donate version I want electric/programmable turnouts so the small layout is more interesting but above my level of knowledge now. I'm assuming Peco is code 80 also---I never looked or heard of Peco. 

As for track silence - I plan on making the structure out of 1x3 material with "T"or "L" sections as needed. When attaching the ply (probably 1/2" especially if I go 2x4 modular) I plan on putting 1/4" thick 3/4" wide foam strips on top of the substructure prior to screwing down to avoid the sound diaphragm with other measures as required.

I'll follow your link and get the NMRA gauging tool after I finish this post.

Now back to the layout... along with the 4x8 donate platform I intend to build an adjoining layout for me to keep and to add to the layout I plan to build for myself. My layout will be loosely based Tuolumne County, CA railroads. Specifically, the Sierra RR and the logging narrow gauge rails. I will be keeping this layout and it will be removable from the donation set. I will then begin to build my permanent layout for myself. I will stop by Railtown in Jamestown, CA to find a good book on local railways (I drive by there every day on the way home from work).

Lastly, excitement overcame me this weekend and I mad a couple of "Impulse" buys (Not my usual Mode of Operandi). Here are the links for the impulse buys:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014X3ZMG6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pickering-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Based on your advice I thought I would start with this DCC package:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009AVJQOG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

***** A very expensive weekend! Especially for staying at home! Amazon "1 click" can be dangerous to your wallet!

Thanks for your help!

Stephen


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

CTValleyRR

I like the quote!


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

*Garage*

Traction,

Your description of the above garage unit was pretty accurate!


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Stephen, I am only in here to explain about correcting your Titles, or typing mistakes in your own posts. If you discover you want to fix a mistake, or correct an error, look at the lower right of the box that has 3 blue "boxes". They are SPAM-EDIT-QUOTE. The one in the middle is EDIT. Just click on that, and it will bring your post up, and go back and fix, what needs to be fixed. Same goes for the Title, which you can correct. It's really simple.


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

Thank you Teledoc. I'll try again.

Stephen


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

Stephen said:


> Traction,
> 
> I'll answer some questions and explain what I am thinking a little better.
> 
> ...




Stephen;

A 4'x8' layout is how most of us started. If you accept it as a pure learning experience, and don't plan to try selling the completed layout, that's an OK way to learn. (I would make the 4'x8' as four 2'x4' sections.) Built- up layouts seldom sell at all, and never for enough to recoup their construction costs. Even giving it away may prove to be somewhat problematic, but if you look around long enough, you may find a willing recipient. If the hospital doesn't want the layout, you might try donating it to a retirement home. Senior citizens would likely enjoy it.

Peco is a British firm that makes flex track, turnouts, (They call them "points" over on that side of the pond.) and other model "railway" products. Their turnouts have earned a reputation for not causing derailments over the course of many years. Most experienced modelers prefer them. One feature that helps with Peco turnouts reliability is a built-in spring that holds the point rail against the stock rail whichever way the turnout is set. This allows them to be used as very reliable manual turnouts right out of the box. (Note: Micro Engineering turnouts also have this same spring feature.) I don't know if Peco turnouts are actually code 80. They can be used with code 80 track though. It's quite possible to mate two different codes of track with a little adaptation. My own railroad has Micro Engineering, code 55, flex track for all the visible track, and Atlas code 80 in the hidden staging yard, for example. 
Peco makes a twin-coil switch machine that snaps onto the bottom of their turnouts, so they are easy to electrify. The Peco twin-coil machine sits in a large rectangular hole that must be cut directly under the throwbar. Peco also makes a set of electrical contacts that fit between the turnout and their switch machine. These contacts can be used to control frog polarity, signals, or control panel indicator LEDs.

That story about "2'x4' sections that people connected together to create a large public display railroad" sounds like modular railroading. There are many modular organizations, in several scales. One of the oldest, largest, and best known is N-trak. This N-scale modular organization has been around for nearly 50 years, and has members worldwide.

I don't understand where you intend to install those foam strips. Between the plywood and the 1x3 frame ("substructure"), or between the track, and the plywood "substructure" (table?) and then screwing the track down? Screws, used in either of these places, will carry any sound made on the track right through the foam and into the substructure/sounding board, so that rules out sound deadening by the foam. Ballast glued into a solid mass will also carry sound from the track, right around the foam, and on down into the plywood. 
On the other hand, if you plan to use the foam strips as roadbed, simply to simulate the look of the raised embankment that real railroad track sits on, then they will work fine for that.
I don't think I've ever seen wood screws tiny enough to fasten down N-scale track. Atlas code 80 track has holes in the center of some of the ties. Atlas makes track nails to fit in these holes, but nails, like screws or ballast will carry sound. Most modelers glue their track to whatever roadbed (cork or foam) they prefer with latex caulk. The roadbed can be glued to the plywood with caulk too.

Good luck, have fun!

Traction Fan


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Kato F-units*

Stephen;

The Kato F-units I have are older, DC models. Like all Kato locomotives they run smoothly and at slow speeds. Unlike most other Kato locomotives, they are pretty noisy, especially at high speed. Now like most model locomotives, they can run at much higher speed than their real life counterparts. I run them in the low end of their speed range, and that quiets them down quite a bit. 

Current production Kato F-units are available with DCC and sound factory installed.
sid recently bought an A-B set of two locomotives. His post "Wahooo" (Right below this post of yours in the N-scale section.) includes photos of the newer Kato F-units in Santa Fe's red and silver "warbonnet" paint scheme. Beautiful locomotives. Perhaps sid can tell us if Kato was able to overcome the noise problem that the earlier units have?

regards;

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

traction ;: i have not even ran them yet . i was gunna set up a temp oval track , but i was not feeling good today.


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

*Misc. Issue Traction made me think about*

Traction- Couple of things. I forgot to answer your question on the cover - I thought I would go to TAP Plastics and have it made if not too expensive. I saw a 10x10x1 foot high at Lucille Packard Children's Hospital at Stanford U. and it looked great. (Unfortunately I was there often over the years for my first born daughter --- we didn't win the battle).

As for the screws it would be for the plywood deck. The foam will go between the ply and supporting 1x3 structure. When building the layout, I will be using the foam roadbed glueing it down and also glueing the track to the roadbed.

You have convinced me to go 2x4 sectional. Easy to move.

I'll look for Sid's post. I need to wait before expending big $! My Daughter just let me know she is going back to finish her Art degree in San Francisco - gonna cost me a fortune! I can't afford a impulse by like this past weekend!

BTW the Bach. 4-6-0 I posted a link to arrived today! Sometimes coming home form work is a pleasant surprise.


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

bewhole said:


> I have never seen one packaged like that before.
> This the one??
> https://www.amazon.com/NCE-Power-Cab-All-System/dp/B009AVJQOG


This is what arrived today w/o the red case.

https://www.amazon.com/NCE-Power-Ca...ders+n+scale&qid=1567040854&s=gateway&sr=8-13

It works great for a starter like me and should last number of years...


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## bewhole (Dec 31, 2016)

Stephen said:


> This is what arrived today w/o the red case.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/NCE-Power-Ca...ders+n+scale&qid=1567040854&s=gateway&sr=8-13
> 
> It works great for a starter like me and should last number of years...


The case was what caught my eye. I have the Power cab and I love it. I have never seen the case with one so that is why I was wondering about it. Going on about 4 years with mine and still going great no problems. Between the forum and the manual that come with it you will learn quick and easy how to operate it. Also the NCE site has a lot of tips and tricks and Q/A's


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Same thing*



Stephen said:


> This is what arrived today w/o the red case.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/NCE-Power-Ca...ders+n+scale&qid=1567040854&s=gateway&sr=8-13
> 
> It works great for a starter like me and should last number of years...



Stephen;

That powercab in the photo is identical to the one I've had for years. Take reasonable care of it and it should last for decades.

regards;

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

*NCE Power Cab*

Traction - I'm glad you like it becuz I bought based on your helpful advice. Bewhole gives it a thumbs up also. I inquired why it did'tn come with a case. Still waiting for. reply.

Now that I am home from work it is time to learn how to use the programming features on this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014X3ZMG6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

S


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

*NCE Power Cab*

reading the instructions - which are clear - but it would help if I knew what "CV" means.....any help?


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

CV means Configuration Variable


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

wvgca said:


> CV means Configuration Variable


And that, in turn, refers to a setting on the decoder that can be reprogrammed to better control how the loco functions.


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

Thanks Guys! 

When I came home the books Traction recommended were in my mailbox and helped me also. Basic DCC Wiring for You Model Railroad and Getting Started in MRR arrived today and already have my nose buried in them! Thanks to all of you.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Stephen said:


> Thanks Guys!
> 
> When I came home the books Traction recommended were in my mailbox and helped me also. Basic DCC Wiring for You Model Railroad and Getting Started in MRR arrived today and already have my nose buried in them! Thanks to all of you.


Both excellent sources! Enjoy!


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

*CT Valley & WVCA*

Hi guys,

Already learning about CV and other items thanks to the book "Basic DCC Wiring" suggested by Traction. Thanks Bud! I'm starting to get the handle on the NCE _Power_ Cab. (Like the italics like on the unit?...hey...hey). I had to return my new loco -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014X3ZMG6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The body was out of longitudinal alignment by +/- 1/8 inch and I simply was not in the mood to fix something I just purchased, void the warranty and waste time and money.

I requested replacement. I am now expanding my table top test track and will pick up plywood and other materials to begin my layout. I've decided on what I want to do somewhat...the details will have to be worked out!

It's gonna be a fun trek!!!:dunno:

This is a fun forum!


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Daughters & art*



Stephen said:


> Traction- Couple of things. I forgot to answer your question on the cover - I thought I would go to TAP Plastics and have it made if not too expensive. I saw a 10x10x1 foot high at Lucille Packard Children's Hospital at Stanford U. and it looked great. (Unfortunately I was there often over the years for my first born daughter --- we didn't win the battle).
> 
> As for the screws it would be for the plywood deck. The foam will go between the ply and supporting 1x3 structure. When building the layout, I will be using the foam roadbed glueing it down and also glueing the track to the roadbed.
> 
> ...


Stephen;

I'm very sorry to hear that you lost a child to disease. As a father I can barely imagine the incredible heartache you and your wife must have suffered! My condolences to you both.

As for the daughter who is going for her art degree, I've "been there done that." I have two grown daughters. The older one is an english teacher, and the younger an artist. Her art is really good, she has plenty of talent. I don't know where she got it, since neither my wife, or I, have any artistic talent to speak of. However, having lots of talent won't necessarily mean one can actually make a living with that talent. After graduating from college with a degree in fine art, my younger daughter has had to work a long succession of "day jobs" and do her artwork at home.
Well at the age of 35, she has finally sold her first book. After only 13 years of trying! It's a children's book that she both wrote, and illustrated. It won't be published for two years. She has another coming out sooner that she illustrated, and someone else wrote. She has had semi-regular commercial work for Fisher Price, and ABC mouse. So your artist daughter may have a long hard road ahead of her, but if she's both very talented, and very persistent, things may work out for her. I certainly hope so. Good luck to her.

Screwing the plywood to the 1x3 frame is good. Screwing it, and glueing it, to the frame (yellow carpenter's glue recommended) is even better. The frame and ply will form a sort of "L-girder" construction. L-girder is very resistant to warping, provided the joint between the wood pieces that form the girder are very firmly attached to each other, along every inch of the joint between them. 
I also suggest painting every bit of wood benchwork that you build. The paint helps seal out moisture, which also helps prevent warping.

Any electric wires that cross the joints between your layout's 2'x4' sections should pass through terminal strips, or better yet, mating plugs and jacks. You can find multi-pin connectors, and terminal strips, at www.allelectronics.com They carry just about any electronic part you can think of. Their prices are reasonable, and they deliver promptly.

regards;

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


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## Stephen (Aug 23, 2019)

Hey guys and gals I'm back! Not going anywhere but work and an out of town guest for 3 weeks kept me away. Looking to start my layout with the good advice of Traction Fan and the books he recommended! Thanks TF - the info was invaluable! May be some time before I post - I need to prep the room for the layout. Cheers!


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