# Advice and Suggestions Welcome



## JackTS (Sep 3, 2015)

As mentioned in earlier posts I am starting fresh after 1st layout.
Small L , Point to Point, Freelanced but trying to learn from posts here by CTValley and others with more experience. I tried to recreate some of your work CTV. If I have at least got my file attached I guess I am gaining on it. Don't laugh too hard but I spent most of the day learning Anyrail basics and got this plan down. Eventually will grow to around the room or something but will most likely be moving in 3 years. This phase starts at the Savannah Port. Had to toss in a station, church and Grannies house for wife and grandkids but mostly industry.
Please critique the heck out of it if you like!!!!
View attachment 1st Port Savannah.any


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## Mark VerMurlen (Aug 15, 2015)

You probably need to fix the tight curves in a couple of spots. See the fine red line drawn over the track just above the sugar plant? The red lines mean the curves are too tight there. You should check what radius you've set for your warning under the settings menu item. I had adjusted that warning level higher than the default for my layout. If you raise the minimum radius level, you may find even more curves that are too tight.

I also question your station siding. If the box grid is 1 foot, you've allowed just over a foot for your station siding. Normally, you'd want to be able to fit the complete passenger train there so it doesn't obstruct the "main line" track. You can only fit one car or so in your siding as it is. I would suggest removing the siding all together or at least not bring the siding back into the main line on this portion of your layout (just leave it like a parallel spur that you can rejoin to the main line when the next section gets added in the future).

Mark


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## Mark VerMurlen (Aug 15, 2015)

By the way, very good first layout with AnyRail. It takes a bit of learning to be able to get nice smooth curves and you often times have to move other stuff to get those nice curves. Its cheap to make changes now before you build it, so don't be afraid to make modifications. I would suggest that you save your various trials as separate files so you can go back to a previous point if you don't like the way your last set of changes are heading.

Mark


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

There is one very important need in your design:

A passing or run around siding. You have some spurs
that require a loco to push cars forward into them,
while others require the loco to back cars in. The
loco gets on the correct side of a car by running
around it on a siding.

The station siding could be used for that but I would
suggest one on the long straights in the right side
of the L.

Don


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## Tom17 (Jan 14, 2016)

I change your minimum radius to 20" from 14" and change one Wye to #5
turnout. Here is the file for you. I did this to help you on the curves sections.
The other members have pointed out what you need to work on


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## JackTS (Sep 3, 2015)

Thank you Mark, Tom and Don. Just the kind of positive feedback I was looking for. I will take all your suggestions and incorporate them. I am taking this one slow before I lay any track and welcome all input.
Jack
Destin, Fl.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

The original plan had two run-around sections, for just the reasons Don noted. 

Whether or not you want to change curve radius is up to you. I said 22" in the notes, but I think that's actually the 18" version. Either way, though, this layout isn't intended for long locos, but short, 4 axle diesels and short wheelbase steam. the 18" minimum and #4 turnouts should work fine. If you went sharper than that (set up the "Alert on Curves too Sharp" feature for 18" min, then you will need to fix that.

Let me know if you want the .any file for the original plan.


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## Tom17 (Jan 14, 2016)

Here are some more that I worked on and used 22" curves.
I see that you are using Peco 83 and if you are having trouble with your flex curves section you can also use the Shinohara 100 code and use the curves at the bottom. They are 16" thru 36", remember this is a just plan for your trains and you can mix it up when you are working on it. When you built the layout use code 83 in its place.


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## JackTS (Sep 3, 2015)

Tom17 said:


> Here are some more that I worked on and used 22" curves.
> I see that you are using Peco 83 and if you are having trouble with your flex curves section you can also use the Shinohara 100 code and use the curves at the bottom. They are 16" thru 36", remember this is a just plan for your trains and you can mix it up when you are working on it. When you built the layout use code 83 in its place.


Thanks Tom. Both you and CTValley have given me solutions to what DonR pointed out I was lacking for future operations. I got a rainy weekend ahead of me and will play with all these designs. I went ahead and got the full version of Anyrail so I won't be limited. Thanks.


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## Tom17 (Jan 14, 2016)

You can try trainplayer which you can download the demo and export from AnyRail to trainplayer and run your railroad in it or use it to see how many railroad cars will fit on a siding or in a yard to see if it will work and fit. Sometimes it's hard to know
if you have enough room to do want you plan to do. It's another way to check it before you build.
http://www.trainplayer.com/Site3/Products.html


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## JackTS (Sep 3, 2015)

Tom17 said:


> You can try trainplayer which you can download the demo and export from AnyRail to trainplayer and run your railroad in it or use it to see how many railroad cars will fit on a siding or in a yard to see if it will work and fit. Sometimes it's hard to know
> if you have enough room to do want you plan to do. It's another way to check it before you build.
> http://www.trainplayer.com/Site3/Products.html


Tom, that looks pretty cool. I will try the demo. Thanks. Right now I think I have to spend money on real track before I can afford virtual track though! Hey, you had me guessing on the "e" version of Port Savannah parts list. I saw a 1 inch piece of Atlas Code 100 on the list but couldn't find where you used in the plan. Finally uncovered it sitting unconnected behind the text ROAD. What was that some kind of a Where's Waldo trick you played on me?


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## Tom17 (Jan 14, 2016)

Just use the demo of trainplayer. You do not need to buy it to use it. Sometimes I get messy and leave tracks all over the plan when I working on it and forget to clean it up on the atlas piece.
On plan e if you run it in trainplayer the wye at the bottom does not work you have to change the turnout.


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## JackTS (Sep 3, 2015)

*Left and Right Turn outs*

In the e version of the plan in post #8 on the right hand side "yard" entrance, we have a Right hand turnout with a left hand turnout connected to it. Will the switch from the left hand turn out fit without hitting the track leaving the right hand above it? So far I have just used paper cut-outs from the Peco sight and it does not look like it will.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Tom17 said:


> Just use the demo of trainplayer. You do not need to buy it to use it. Sometimes I get messy and leave tracks all over the plan when I working on it and forget to clean it up on the atlas piece.
> On plan e if you run it in trainplayer the wye at the bottom does not work you have to change the turnout.


I used to do this all the time, but haven't done so in a while now. Used to be that there were two parts to the Trainplayer software, and you had to pay for the full version to use the tracklayer part, which used to be essential to clean up AnyRail exports.

Has this changed?


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## JackTS (Sep 3, 2015)

Guess it has. I did the demo and was able to export my plan from Anyrail and import it into the player demo. Ran trains this morning. Pretty cool. Helped me find a bad track. 


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## JackTS (Sep 3, 2015)

*Flex Track Size?*

Thanks to all for the earlier help. I am getting close to laying first section of track as outlined in blue on the plan below. It may be a dumb question but just wondering about cutting flex track.

With the curve flex section in blue at top right, I have a total of 48". Would it be better to use two 24" pieces or a 36" with a 12" or does it really matter?

Also from what I have read, I would be wise to not solder rail connections at the turnouts. True?

Thanks in advance.
View attachment 1st Port Savannah e1.any


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

JackTS said:


> Thanks to all for the earlier help. I am getting close to laying first section of track as outlined in blue on the plan below. It may be a dumb question but just wondering about cutting flex track.
> 
> With the curve flex section in blue at top right, I have a total of 48". Would it be better to use two 24" pieces or a 36" with a 12" or does it really matter?
> 
> ...


Unfortunately, the Internet Gestapo here at work does not allow me to view most images...

That said, if your curve is longer than one piece of flex track (typically 36"), then you need to join two. Solder the rail joints while the track is straight, then bend it (you will probably have to remove a few ties near the joint, but this is a good idea when soldering anyway). It doesn't matter how long the individual segments are.

Other than that, soldering rail joints is a matter of preference. In theory, you should solder your track together into blocks, add feeder wires to each block, and leave the joints between blocks unsoldered. A typical place to do this is at turnouts. With feeders every 3-4 feet, you shouldn't have any problem with dead spots.

That said, my personal opinion is that this is overkill. Several of my layouts, and my son's current (8x12) layout, operate just fine from a single pair of feeders and no soldered joints. I'm currently using feeders about every 6-8 feet and soldering the joints, more out of deference to conventional wisdom than any personal feeling that it is necessary.


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## JackTS (Sep 3, 2015)

Thanks Ben. I think I got it resolved. The curve will be one piece of 36 in. flex. Coming off the turnout I can add a 12 in. straight piece. My thoughts on not soldering turnouts was just in anticipating replacements down the road. Going with all Peco so hope that is not needed too soon. 
Thanks. I'll check back in when I get this first section laid.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Peco Insulfrog turnouts are power routing. You will either need to remove the insulation underneath the points, jumper the power across the frog, or power the frog rails from the connecting track. Otherwise, you will have a potential dead spot.


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## JackTS (Sep 3, 2015)

CTValleyRR said:


> Peco Insulfrog turnouts are power routing. You will either need to remove the insulation underneath the points, jumper the power across the frog, or power the frog rails from the connecting track. Otherwise, you will have a potential dead spot.


CTValley, would adding feeder wires to all tracks connected to a given turnout accomplish your option 3 above?
Thanks. 

My layout is coming along well but not as far along as I would like to be. Summer heat in the garage and a couple of named storms in my neck of the woods hamper development.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Jack

You need to add drops to the two frog rails only when
using Peco Insulfrog turnouts. That way all rails have
power regardless of how the points are set.

Don


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## JackTS (Sep 3, 2015)

Thank you. I’ll try that. 


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