# Control Panel ideas for switches



## Tigger (Dec 19, 2021)

I'm going to mount the turnout switches and other switches on a panel and would like to see some pictures of what you have. What material did you use? Thin plywood? Plastic? Something to hide all the wires. Right now I have the cheap switches that came with the turnouts, but they all work fine. Maybe upgrade to a better one down the road, I haven't seen any aftermarket ones yet. I may have it on a hinge and fold it up when not in use. Just a thought at this point. thanks


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

I use ¼” oak veneer plywood for mine with pinstripe tape to represent the rails.


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## SF Gal (11 mo ago)

I like the idea of having the switches at the "exact location of the turnout" or as close as possible to visually see the action completed correctly so I am mounting small panels all along the facia of the layout where I need remote electronic turnouts...









The above panel is clear plastic with a printed photopaper back from my computer using MS Paint.
The Momentary Push Button Switches are from Radio shack though I did find them here. I used 1/8" quarter round trim to finish it off.
Where I do not have electic turnouts I use Caboose Industries HO Ground Throws....


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## Tigger (Dec 19, 2021)

Very nice.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I used a 1/4 " Fibreboard base, hinged for easy
access. The layout had three panels. One for each
yard and the 3rd for center section of layout.
I painted the entire board yellow, used
maskng tape where track is. Then repainted entire
board. Remove tape and track shows yellow.

I use a Diode matrix system in my yards. Push
button in the target spur and matrix sets all
turnouts in the route. 

Don


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I forgot to attach photo.


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

I’m in the school with SF Gal. My new build is large, so my turnout controls will be spread out. I plan to mount them directly to the fascia with an industry name label or other terminology (rev loop, etc). 
I plan to have indicator lights for tracks in both main yards. But unlike most who do a single LED near the control button, I will have a string of them illuminating the entire track length, inspired by the Dispatch in the original Pelham 123 movie (where “fat Caz worked). For industry spurs (i,e, in a refinery) I plan on just having 2 or 3 LEDs along the selected route, probably all yellow instead of green/red, on a red pinstripe track schematic and spur name in yellow letters to match the lights (i.e. TAR, or PET COKE) but I may end up doing a numeral system for switch list reasons.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

Go to the hardware store and get a cheap plastic for sale sign, the size you want for the panel. Get some evergreen plastic strips around 1/16" high by 1/4" wide and glue them to the sign to form the track pattern you want. Spray the entire thing a nice flat black. Get some acrylic pens at the art store in some nice bright colors and go over the top of the plastic strips. For indicator lights drill holes the diameter of the LED's and holes to mount the turnout pushbuttons and block power control switches. I wired all the block switches and there corresponding LED (4 lead 3 color LED's all the same way and to 0.1" crimp connectors all before I installed them on the panel. All the turnout pushbuttons and indicator were wired the same way (2 lead bi color LED's in series with the stall motors and all to a crimp connectors. Then you make crimp cables to wire things to the DS64's or track terminals. The panel was not my idea, but I can't remember where I got the idea from, but it makes a really nice looking panel. This one is hinged to make it easier to connect all the crimp connectors up to the track and DS64's. I use a piece of clear plastic, but cheap sign material works just as good! Wiring may look complex, but all the switches are wired the same way and all the turnout push buttons are wired the same to crimp connectors so the mess is just connector to connector cable runs. The only solder is to a 12v bus and the wires going the switches. LED's leads all fit into crimp connectors. Don't cheap out on the crimp tool, its worth the $30 or so for a really nice crimp to for the pins that insert into the connector housing. There a nice sets of male and female pins and assorted sizes of connector housings. Check https://www.pololu.com/category/70/crimp-connector-housings for connector and pin examples (or Banggood for kits), but Polou has a nice crimp tool.


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## 65446 (Sep 22, 2018)

If, IF your MRR is not that large or complex (having only say 5-14 TOs) you could put all the toggles in a straight line somewhere and merely number them. IE. Switch track #1 is the one "over there", "Sw#2 is over there", "Sw 3 is over there", etc. and skip having to construct a panel with a schematic of the trackage on it..After a while you will just know what toggle belongs to what switch motor..
The panels with track schemes on them really date back to before DCC (not that you have to be DCC) when analog 'block control' was king and the need to turn off and on said blocks to create independence of locos/trains thus created a huge need for such a panel..
If you too are still analog DC, then by all means make a panel with a schematic like the ones above..
Just saying that if, IF your layout is not that complex a straight flank of toggles may be all you need..
A strip of 3/8" ply or strip of masonite is all you'd need with holes drilled for the toggles and wires behind, going into and out from toggles to the TO motors.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

Tigger said:


> I'm going to mount the turnout switches and other switches on a panel and would like to see some pictures of what you have. What material did you use? Thin plywood? Plastic? Something to hide all the wires. Right now I have the cheap switches that came with the turnouts, but they all work fine. Maybe upgrade to a better one down the road, I haven't seen any aftermarket ones yet. I may have it on a hinge and fold it up when not in use. Just a thought at this point. thanks


Tigger;

I use small local panels, since the shape of my layout does not lend itself well to one giant central control panel.
I also prefer to use stall motors, rather than twin-coil switch machines, to operate my turnouts.
Finally, I really like route control, where one panel switch (or pushbutton, if you're using twin-coil machines) aligns all the turnouts needed to reach a selected track simultaneously.

The panel shown is made of plastic, over a PC board, and uses one rotary switch to control all the turnouts in Cedar Falls yard. This makes for a super simple panel, one switch! 😊 (Photo 1)
However, I still need one motor and frog polarity micro-switch for each turnout. All those motors, micro-switches, & mechanical linkages between each motor & and its turnout, make for a crowded area behind the hinged panel.
However, all the complicated stuff is in plain sight and easy reach, with the panel open.(Photo 2)

There is nothing more complicated than mechanical linkages, and track feeder wires, under the table. (Photo 3) These items are not prone to breakage, and seldom need any maintenance.
I'm old and semi-disabled, so crawling under the layout is not for me.

I simply dial the track I want and all the necessary turnouts line themselves for that track. The panel is quite small, about 9" x 3" for the orange portion that actually controls the turnouts. The white portion, on the left, controls four pairs of powered doors and the interior lights of the engine house above it.

Traction Fan


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

FWIW too, if you use DCC and have 8 or fewer turnouts, a single stationary decoder could be programmed to handle all possible routes. 9-16 turnouts could be done with two stationary decoders. But it requires powered TO machines so may not be viable.


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## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

I inserted toggle switches in a poster size printout of my layout. I used Masonite, and spray adhesive with a clear contact-paper for the cover.


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## Tigger (Dec 19, 2021)

Lots of good info coming in. I have 15 turnouts so far. I will add some other switches for loco's to sit parked on track that isnt powered. Flip a switch and they come to life. It's DCC ( HO scale/ NCE power cab) The turnouts are powered by DC transformers, 2 of the them. MRC 1300 rail power. That shouldn't be a problem, should it? I believe the turnouts are plastic and not touching the rails what so ever, insulated, electrical wise. I have 1 dedicated DC non connecting loop. I also want to make a sling or holder for the NCE power cab control unit to mount on the side of the table. Right now I have wires hanging under the table everywhere. Doing the terminal wiring next for the track, so I will be laying on a creeper rolling under the table for a few hours. The building process is very enjoyable. I'm saving the bulk of the build time for this fall and winter. In the summer I have too many other projects going on, but still manage to get an hour or 2 in the basement every other day.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

Tigger said:


> Lots of good info coming in. I have 15 turnouts so far. I will add some other switches for loco's to sit parked on track that isnt powered. Flip a switch and they come to life. It's DCC ( HO scale/ NCE power cab) The turnouts are powered by DC transformers, 2 of the them. MRC 1300 rail power. That shouldn't be a problem, should it? I believe the turnouts are plastic and not touching the rails what so ever, insulated, electrical wise. I have 1 dedicated DC non connecting loop. I also want to make a sling or holder for the NCE power cab control unit to mount on the side of the table. Right now I have wires hanging under the table everywhere. Doing the terminal wiring next for the track, so I will be laying on a creeper rolling under the table for a few hours. The building process is very enjoyable. I'm saving the bulk of the build time for this fall and winter. In the summer I have too many other projects going on, but still manage to get an hour or 2 in the basement every other day.


Tigger;

What brand of turnouts are you using? The DCC stationary decoder idea that Oil Valley suggested will work. Though as he said, you will need more than one decoder for your 15 turnouts. Most such decoders have outputs for both DC stall motors (like Tortoise or Switchmaster) and Twin-coil machines. (Like Peco, or Atlas) so they can operate nearly any turnout.

Using DC power packs for the turnouts is fine, but one bit of caution applies if you're using Atlas Twin-coil machines.
Those machines can operate from either the DC or AC output of your power pack.
However, if the button is held down more than a second or two, the coils in the Atlas machine will start to melt. Also, the cheap, "blue button" controls that come with Atlas Snap Switch turnouts, have been known to short their internal contacts on occasion. If this happens, it will definitely fry a coil in the turnout.
There is a simple circuit called a Capacitive Discharge Unit (CDU) that will prevent any burnout of coils even if the button is held down too long, or shorts internally. You can build your own CDU, or use a much higher quality turnout control called a Stapleton 751D. It has a built-in CDU, so do many DCC stationary decoders.

I made a holder for my NCE Powercab from scrap lumber lined with felt. There are also commercial versions. I think Micro Mark www.micromark.com sells one.

"Wires hanging under the table everywhere" is unfortunately all too common on model railroads. However, its never a good idea. Having created a "rat's nest" of wires on an earlier layout, and after spending decades troubleshooting electrical machines for a living, I make a point of using neat wiring, terminal strips, and clear labeling. It is considered "extra" work by many, but boy will you thank yourself when you have to dig into wiring when things stop working. 

Traction Fan


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

I’ve seen some homemade throttle holders made from cutting isopropyl bottles. Velcro might work also, if you don’t mind sticking it to your throttle.

I use a couple of tricks for containing wiring. Firstly, on my new layout I have an L girder right behind the fascia. Terminal strips will be mounted there fir connecting feeders. This eliminates having to crawl under the layout. 
To organize wiring I use simple pipe straps. There are galvanized metal type with one screw, which leaves a gap at the other end, and two screw pvc type which work well when using only one screw. You can easily flex it to slip wires in & out. 
For smaller bundles, coaxial (tv) cable straps work.
They’re cheap and easy to install pre or post wiring. 
I also color code my wiring according to decoder wiring, to simplify trouble shooting later. It’s a lot easier to differentiate motor wires from lighting wires when they have orange or blue color tags made from electrical tape.

Also, for power supplies, stationary decoders etc, I’m going to mount those to a board with drawer tracks, like a pull out keyboard tray on a computer desk. My dad’s layout is a grid frame, so he couldn’t do a drawer style. Instead he did a flip down hinged board to avoid crawling under; he can sit in a chair and solder etc.


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## 65446 (Sep 22, 2018)

Dele by I [Admin can remove]


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## 65446 (Sep 22, 2018)

dele by I {Admin can remove]


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## Tigger (Dec 19, 2021)

Turnouts are mostly Walthers brand, new. I did use 1 Atlas and 1 Tyco that are used on a dead end and are mostly for "looks" All the switches look alike and can be screwed together in a series. 3 wire style. I should probably get better ones now, before I make the panel. What are some of the choices available? I'll stick with the DC transformer for powering these turnouts, they are all up and working/wired. Just need a better quality, nice looking switch. I will make 3 separate small control panels and house 5 turnout switches in each ( i think) Those cab holsters are cheap enough so I may go that route and get 2 or 3 of them. Yesterday I put some 2 1/2 inch deck screws under the table to hold the wires up temporarily. I like the idea of an open ended wire retainer, as I'll be adding stuff for years to come and they make sense. I have a flat piece of plywood mounted to the table that the laptop fits on. It sure helps with programming ( you tube etc..) All these ideas and pictures above have me changing my mind constantly, which is a good thing. thanks.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

Since you are using solenoids to power the turnouts, you really should consider the advice to use a capacitive discharge circuit to power them. As others have mentions this avoids burning out the solenoid coils. The Stapleton 751D provides this along with an indicator light but might be a little expensive (certainly an easy to use solution). Otherwise make a CDU circuit or use DS64's or the newer version DS74 or DE74 which can all be powered by 12v DC and not use any DCC rail power.


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## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

Lemonhawk said:


> Since you are using solenoids to power the turnouts, you really should consider the advice to use a capacitive discharge circuit to power them. As others have mentions this avoids burning out the solenoid coils. The Stapleton 751D provides this along with an indicator light but might be a little expensive (certainly an easy to use solution). Otherwise make a CDU circuit or use DS64's or the newer version DS74 or DE74 which can all be powered by 12v DC and not use any DCC rail power.



I agree 110%. I burned out 2 Peco switches before I realized it.


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## Tigger (Dec 19, 2021)

Thanks, I'll look into those. I had to jostle the order of the switches because the one on the center ( of 5) would not let voltage go to the next 2. So these switches that come with the turnouts are starting to fail already. I see the 751D's are powered by DC as opposed to AC that they are currently hooked to. What power supply would you recommend for the 751D's. Or does Ken have everything on his site for these? Edit: I sent an email to Ken's model RR .


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## Tigger (Dec 19, 2021)

Haven't heard back from Ken's as of yet.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

Tigger said:


> Turnouts are mostly Walthers brand, new. I did use 1 Atlas and 1 Tyco that are used on a dead end and are mostly for "looks" All the switches look alike and can be screwed together in a series. 3 wire style. I should probably get better ones now, before I make the panel. What are some of the choices available? I'll stick with the DC transformer for powering these turnouts, they are all up and working/wired. Just need a better quality, nice looking switch. I will make 3 separate small control panels and house 5 turnout switches in each ( i think) Those cab holsters are cheap enough so I may go that route and get 2 or 3 of them. Yesterday I put some 2 1/2 inch deck screws under the table to hold the wires up temporarily. I like the idea of an open ended wire retainer, as I'll be adding stuff for years to come and they make sense. I have a flat piece of plywood mounted to the table that the laptop fits on. It sure helps with programming ( you tube etc..) All these ideas and pictures above have me changing my mind constantly, which is a good thing. thanks.


Tigger;

I have not used, or even seen (except in photos) the new Walthers turnouts. In photos, they look pretty realistic, and the discussion of them on this forum has all been favorable. Why do you feel you need to replace them? If you want to though, here are my recommendations.
(Also see the attached file for more info on model turnouts.)

For turnouts you can't beat Peco for reliability and ruggedness. However, their appearance is a little different, since nearly all Pecos are based on British prototypes rather than American. I have heard that Peco also produces some North American turnouts, based on prototypes used "on this side of the pond." 

Micro Engineering turnouts are the most realistic looking (US style) turnouts I've ever seen. They are also very reliable. The only "bad side" of their construction is related to their excellent appearance. The tiny spike detail used on M/E turnouts & flex track looks great, but makes them less rugged than Pecos. Any serious upward pressure on the rails can sometimes cause them to part company with the plastic tie strip. As long as you install them with reasonable care, they should give many years of reliable service. Micro Engineering makes only # 6 right, and # 6 left turnouts in N-scale. In HO-scale they also offer a compressed length yard ladder.
M/E turnouts, (and Peco's Unifrog) come with the "DCC compatible" configuration factory installed. The "isolated frog" of such a turnout may need to be powered and have its polarity switched to match the selected route, or not, depending on the type of locomotives you use. A short wheelbase switcher, or an older loco that only picks up power from only a few wheels, may stall on an unpowered frog. A locomotive with all-wheel pickup should sail right through a turnout with an unpowered frog. 

Traction Fan 🙂


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## Tigger (Dec 19, 2021)

Im keeping the actual turnout "switch" its the controls for them that are being upgraded to a 751D style.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

Tigger said:


> Im keeping the actual turnout "switch" its the controls for them that are being upgraded to a 751D style.


Tigger;

That sounds like a very wise decision.

Traction Fan (AKA "Eeyore") 😊


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## Tigger (Dec 19, 2021)

The website that sells the 751D's doesn't answer any of my emails, it's been 3 days. Kens model railroad.
Ken's Model Railroad Electronics Is this something normal? I'm not in any hurry, just wondered if he takes his time getting back with people.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

Tigger said:


> The website that sells the 751D's doesn't answer any of my emails, it's been 3 days. Kens model railroad.
> Ken's Model Railroad Electronics Is this something normal? I'm not in any hurry, just wondered if he takes his time getting back with people.


I have looked at their website but that was quite a while ago, and I have not bought from them, since I use DC stall motors not twin-coil machines. DonR , here on the forum , has done business with them. He may have more info. 
If, for whatever reason, Stapleton 751Ds are not available, You can make your own CDU cheap. DonR has done this, and he can give you the diagram. You could then build a control panel with pairs of momentary pushbuttons, or momentary-spring loaded- center off-toggle switches, or conventional (ON-ON type) toggle switches with a momentary pushbutton wired in series with them.

Traction Fan


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## Tigger (Dec 19, 2021)

He came thru and the parts are on the way to me. I thought I added an update to the above post but somehow it didnt take. or I forgot to hit the "save" button. I should be all set. But thanks for that info.


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## Tigger (Dec 19, 2021)

Just an update. I have the 751D's , 17 of them. I added 2 more turnouts also. I've been busy with summer outside projects but recently spent some time downstairs. I added 2 wing sections to the table top and altered the layout. Going to run the trains for awhile to make sure everything is in good working order and start the wiring project. The center area between the 'wings" will be the control panel area. I wanted another area for building and landscape on both ends of the table. The outer most track is DC. and doesnt connect to the others. I've considered making it both DC and DCC with the flip of a switch but heard if switched wrong, it could end up costing $$ in repairs, so I going to make it DCC and sell the DC locos I have. Here's the current layout.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

You can safely wire any track, or a whole layout, to use DC or DCC. The wires from the track go to the two center terminals of a DPDT (Double-Pole-Double-Throw toggle switch. The two track output wires from your DC power pack go to the pair of terminals at one end of the toggle switch. The two track output wires from your DCC controller go to the pair of terminals at the opposite end of the toggle switch. Using this simple setup, the track of your layout will be connected to EITHER DC or DCC, depending on which way the toggle switch is thrown, but never to both at once.

Traction Fan


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