# Metal Wheels - Brass v. Sintered Copper v. Steel



## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

I added more rolling stock wheels to my inventory recently. Upon shopping, I found there were three types of metal wheels available. I remember seeing at least the brass and steel ones. Not sure if I remember seeing the copper ones on any of my engines or rolling stock. Nonetheless, to be prepared, I added several of all three types as well as a vast supply of plastic wheels. I figured to be ready for anything I happen to find at train shows in need of repair.

Now my dilemma, which types are used where? I'm sure you guys saw this coming when I first started this thread.

I know that some, if not all, my steam engine tenders use the brass wheels. I've cleaned and shined enough of these to remember that.

I have seen, or thought I saw, the steel wheels used on my lighted passenger coaches (600 and 900 series), obviously to get power for the interior lamp. I guess they are also used on the action cars that require power to operate -- 715, 716, 717, etc.

What about the copper wheels? And if I made an error in the use of any above, please let me know. I'd like to try to keep as original an appearance of my collection as possible.


----------



## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

The "copper" looking ones go on some tenders.I'll have to check a few of my engines. You're right about the steel and plastic wheel sets.


----------



## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

My Hudson are "copper" and plastic.


----------



## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Well, I have no Hudsons yet, so now I know that I have wheels for it/them.


----------



## ChopperCharles (Jan 3, 2012)

Now, I'm not sure of all of this, so if I'm mistaken please correct me.

I believe the machined brass wheels were used by the most early models. I've never seen a metal tender that didn't have brass wheels. That's not to say they didn't come another way, but I haven't seen any. 

My 21085 and casey jones both came with stintered wheels, and they're some of the last models produced, as Gilbert was winding down. They're significantly cheaper in construction, with one-piece plastic couplers, abbreviated (or nonexistent) reverse units, etc.

I've never actually seen steel wheels on anything.

The best wheels are the pure brass. They clean up nicely, have better contact with the track, and won't rust. Steel I would avoid because of the potential for rust.

Note that if you buy brass wheels from portlines, they won't actually fit on your axles unless you drill out the wheels slightly. While more expensive, it really is a better idea to buy the assembled wheels. It's SO much less headache. Even with an arbor press and the right plates, and with drilling the wheels larger, I still ended up bending my axles slightly.

Charles.


----------



## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Some of my 302's have them also.


----------



## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Oh-Oh, I was unaware of that issue. I did buy a bunch of brass ones from Port Lines....in fact all the wheels I bought are from Port Lines. I guess when the time comes, I'll have to deal with it.


----------



## ChopperCharles (Jan 3, 2012)

Yeah, they go on with the press like they're going to fit (tightly), but as soon as they reach the knurled area, they don't move another micron. 

Charles.


----------



## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Is Doug Peck aware of this problem? Certainly he should be informed. At the very least he could provide some tips on how to get them to fit properly.


----------

