# Rookie needs some help



## englewood (May 22, 2014)

Hello friends. My name is Ronnie, I'm 31 years old, from Ohio. I have been fascinated with trains my whole life. I now own my own house and have the space to set up a model train layout.

A few days ago I picked up an older (brass rail) Fleischmann HO set at auction for $15.









Everything looked complete and near mint condition so I couldn't pass. Upon bringing it home I realized the engine had been torn apart and not completely put back together. I laid out a temporary circle on a 4x4 table to see what I had to work with. 









I went to a local Antique store that I had recalled seeing model trains in. I was able to pick up a couple engines (a little newer Tyco's) for $20 and also 6 various cars. This set has different couplers but I would figure it would work. 









I cleaned the rails pretty good and double checked the joints. I hooked up two powered rails (forgive me as I have not learned the lingo yet). Both new engines will creep about 4" and stop and hum (turned up to FAST). 

Does anyone have any ideas on what my problem could be? I noticed the brass drive wheels on both the engines do not turn freely on either locomotive.









Is this normal or is their a gear problem? Is there a way I can test power at the rails to determine if my track and/or power source is the issue?


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

I did not see a transformer in your pictures. Model trains run on DC current. If you don't have a transformer, you need to get one before running trains.

A multimeter (combo voltmeter -- AC and DC. and Ohm meter) is essential for diagnosing electrical issues on model trains. (They are also essential for diagnosing wiring problems in the house that you now own.).

The drive wheels on model train locos do not move without electrical power -- they are geared to the motor.


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## englewood (May 22, 2014)

I've been using this:









and I have this:









However I am not sure of the proper readings I should be looking for and where.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

From the pic, it appears that you have your
track connected to the TRACK terminals, but
recheck that. Do not connect the track to
the AC accessories terminals.

Use your multi meter set for DC VOLTAGE
and tell us the reading you get when your
probes are on the TRACK terminals of
your power pack with no loco on the
track. Use the controller and
see what the voltage variation might be.

If you get a negative reading
correct that by using the forward/reverse
switch.

You should see from 1 to 12 volts or so
if the power pack is operating correctly
when you use the speed controller.

Take the shell off of a loco and see if
the motor brushes and commutator are clear
and clean. 

Try touching wires from the power pack track
terminals directly on the wheels with the loco
upside down. Does it run in either FWD or REV? 

Tell us what you find.

Don


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## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

It may have been torn apart to add a DCC decoder. You should take them apart and have a good look inside. While you're in there you can test the motors directly.

If you're in this hobby for any length of time, you will get used to opening these up before even trying them. Unless they're new of course.


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## englewood (May 22, 2014)

Thank you Don. 

I'm hooked to the track terminal outlets.

Motors and wheels look very clean and clear.

If I'm using the meter correctly for DC (V~)? It jumps from .564-.709 and fluctuates.

Jumping power directly to wheels gives me about the same results as when it's on the track.

I'm guessing my power source is either messed up or it's fine and I just don't know how to use a multimeter. What do the DCC decoders look like? Those are used to control multiple trains on one set up, yes?


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

The V~ symbol is for AC. The DC symbol is a solid line with 3 dots underneath it.


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## englewood (May 22, 2014)

On DC I'm getting between .600 and .780, fluctuating. Same on the rails, on the leads, and off the transformer.


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## mikek (Dec 29, 2013)

Sounds like your transformer is bad. Shop around, you don't need an expensive one yet. Your hobby shop may have used ones, or will know where you can get them. Check thrift stores, you may get another whole set with a good controller. To check the motor for sure, get anything that puts out 12 volts DC for a tester. I use an 8 pack AA battery holder from Radio Shack, with a snap on connector like 9volt batteries use. Works just fine for testing.
Track must be clean and shiny, use a scotch-brite pad or some fine sandpaper. Track cleaners are available, they are big erasers with grit in them.
As advised, get comfortable opening your locos to check the workings and for dirt and lint on the inside of the wheels where they rub the contacts for the motor. Some electronic cleaner spray helps a lot. Just make sure it's safe for plastic. Don't flood the loco with WD40, that will mess up the brushes.
Check all the loco wheels for shine on the contact wheels, and cleanliness on the traction wheels (the ones connected to the motor).
Don't go crazy oiling everything either. I find my trains run better clean and dry than all oily and messy. A little drop here and there is all that is necessary.


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## englewood (May 22, 2014)

Thank you guys very much for being so willing to help me out. I feel a lot more comfortable investing in this hobby knowing I have access to such information.

There's an antique mall near me that has a lot of train stuff. I remember seeing at least 10 transformers there. I'm going to go look for one that works. I'm going to take my multimeter and check to make sure they work. Do I just need to check the outputs for proper voltage? I need to see between 1-12 depending on speed dial?


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Yes

To test Track voltage, set the multimeter for DC VOLTs.

You should get from 0 to around 12 volts or so. Again, if
you see a - (negative) reading flip the FWD/REV switch
on the power pack.

To test the Accessories voltage, set the multimeter for AC VOLTS.

You should get around 12 to 14 volts.

Don


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## englewood (May 22, 2014)

Thank you Don


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## mikek (Dec 29, 2013)

When I'm shopping for transformers, I search for as much power as possible. Most put out one amp or less. MRC makes nice controls, they have one with extra switches for braking and such, nice tricks when you can get them at a good price. You might get lucky.
I saw another nice one with gauges for volts and amps, I personally like that stuff. It lets you know how your system is running, if a loco is shorting out.


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## englewood (May 22, 2014)

Great news guys. I found one that tested good, paid $10 for it. Brought it home hooked it up and both engines I bought work great! Now it's time to add a sheet to make my layout 4x8. Thanks for the advice! I'll be back with more questions soon!


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## jesteck (Apr 15, 2014)

OK, you now have a working power supply and 2 running engines; so far, so good. Next thing to address is the couplers; you should be able to run either set with the cars that came with it, but may not be able to intermix the cars between them. Since you are just starting out, now's a great time to standardize on a coupler type. Kadee has one of the broadest lines of replacement couplers for just about anything ever made, and one of the most reliable products out there- which is why they have been the go-to for the majority of RR modelers and hobbyists for years. Better to convert your cars to a single standard early; it's not too difficult. Those "toy train" horn-hooks don't play well with others. Try changing a car or two to get the feel of it. I don't think you'll want to go back; besides, the Kadees look better and are operational. Also, when you start to build your empire, invest in nickel-silver track; save the brass for display use, or just trash it.


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## englewood (May 22, 2014)

Well gentlemen, I made another auction score. Not high-end stuff, but it was brand new, in the box and only cost me $20. 










My auction find inspired me to build this today:










It's a 4'x8' layout. I used 2x4's for the frame, supports, and legs. I went with 48" legs. I am still considering cutting them down 6-10". I'm 6'4" and the table seems way too high. I have a hard time reaching the back side. Unfortunately, I am somewhat confined on space, so it has to have a long side against the wall. I went with 11/32nds plywood rather than the 1/2" like most recommend. With the center supports and the stout frame, there's no flex. I intend on adding a 2" sheet of foam. I skipped it on this trip to the hardware store. 










I put together some track and tested out my new loco and rolling stock. Everything works awesome! The new engine is actually the best one I have. I'm now up to 3 working locos, a broken one, and two dummies. It's starting to look like a train set. Now that I have a layout I feel like I can comfortably invest some money in good track, roadbed, and some other things I've been seeing around the forum and on Youtube. It's getting pretty exciting. I'm in full 8-year old mode tonight.

I also have a couple newbie questions; 
1. How much track can you run before you need multiple powered sections? (excuse my lingo) 

2. Can I use nickle-silver and brass together for now?


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## mustangcobra94 (Apr 28, 2014)

i think you can mix brass and silver together. also you could put casters on the legs of the layout so you can roll it out to work on the back


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

On the 4 X 8 layout you have most likely 2 sets of
track connections one on the front and one on
the back side would be sufficient. If you detect
slowing, add them on the ends. If you enlarge
the layout run additional track feeds.

Some like to put track drops 3 to 6 feet apart.

Just be aware of the need for maintaining
the correct polarity. That is easiest to do if
you consider the outside rail RED and the
inside rail BLACK (or your choice of colors)
and use the same color wires to do your
connections.

Don


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## englewood (May 22, 2014)

Thanks Don. I've also been wondering if most people leave their transformers plugged in, unplugged, or wire them to a power-bar or light switch? Crawling under the table and plugging it in every time is getting annoying.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

It's best to use a multitap strip with an
on/off switch, AND a 'night light' that
would be visible when the strip is on.
As time goes on you'll be using a soldering
iron and possibly adding more power packs
to feed lights, turnouts and other
accessories.

You do not want to ever leave the
layout turned on when it is not attended.

Don


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## mustangcobra94 (Apr 28, 2014)

that's what I did I plugged everything into a power strip and mounted it to the leg of the table. now I just turn off the lighted switch on the power strip.


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