# Painting Help



## Tarbilly (Mar 12, 2009)

Hey! I am VERY new. I'm having issues with painting my buildings. I've completed a grain elevator and that was no problem. All it required was a coat of white primer on the body and some brown paint on the roof to simulate rust. It came out pretty good if I do say so myself.

So now I'm working on an open-air transport building. It has a couple of ramps and platforms that need to look like dirty old concrete. I've primed it (white) and put no less than four coats of pale gray paint on the plastic. That appears to be enough for all except the largest section. That's probably going to need a fifth coat.

I'm using an acrylic water-based hobby paint. Not necessarily model paint. Am I using the wrong kind of paint? Am I doing something else wrong? Is this completely normal? Am I just not holding my mouth right?

Thanks for any suggestions.


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## stationmaster (Dec 7, 2008)

I use airbrushes, model paint brushes, hobby brushes, sponges, eye shadow applicators, and rags to paint my models. 

I use paint, stain, the better half's eye shadow, food coloring, ....what ever it takes to get the desired affect.

For dirt, I use REAL dirt, for trees I use weeds, for rocks REAL rocks..... I hope that you are getting the picture here. By using readily available, natural, no cost(that's the best part) materials, you can save a lot of cash to buy more trains!!!

Bob


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## Lester Perry (Nov 7, 2008)

almost any paint will work. I have found that acrylic craft paint. leaves something to be desired on plastic. I would suggest using Pollyscale if airbrushing also Testors model paint works well. Testors has a spray that works good for concrete, I believe it is called desert sand. Oh yeah Pollyscale is made by Testors. Check LHS (Local Hobby Shop) or on line at
http://www.testors.com/category/50736/Paints


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## Tarbilly (Mar 12, 2009)

Lester Perry said:


> almost any paint will work. I have found that acrylic craft paint. leaves something to be desired on plastic. I would suggest using Pollyscale if airbrushing also Testors model paint works well. Testors has a spray that works good for concrete, I believe it is called desert sand. Oh yeah Pollyscale is made by Testors. Check LHS (Local Hobby Shop) or on line at
> http://www.testors.com/category/50736/Paints


That's precisely my issue. I got the acrylic hobby paint because I could get the colors I needed in flat. A lot of Testors paints I found are enamel and gloss. I'm really not after shiny concrete. Can I use enamel or gloss paints and knock the shine off with clear flat sealant?


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## Tarbilly (Mar 12, 2009)

I can't wait to actually start putting the stuff on the layout and creating landscaping. We've decided to pull a lot scenes from our lives (our house, my grandmother's mobile home with the lake where I used to swim....stuff like that).

Thanks for the great sugggestions!

Lisa


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## Lester Perry (Nov 7, 2008)

If you get the military paints they are flat.I assume you are using spray cans. If so that will really limit you In color choices. You could also try dull coat on the glossy paint. I use it a lot for many things such as over coat on decals to help hide the decal material.


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## stationmaster (Dec 7, 2008)

Les, I use DullCoat A LOT!!! Great for taking the sheen off of new engines, buildings, and cars.

Bob


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## Tarbilly (Mar 12, 2009)

Thanks, Bob! :thumbsup:

I have 2 cans of that already....Lisa


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## Tarbilly (Mar 12, 2009)

*What I learned...*

I am sad to report that I killed the building. I had tried so many things that I decided it would be best to start from scratch. 

I'm viewing it as a learning experience. What did I learn? It's not a good idea to put paint remover on plastic buildings.

Never fear, I have reordered the building. I WILL WIN!


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Chant*

Picture Picture Picture!
Please,LOL
It is possible, use a small brush,work a small area, clean it off.


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## mltoyz (Feb 23, 2009)

stationmaster said:


> For dirt, I use REAL dirt, for trees I use weeds, for rocks REAL rocks..... I hope that you are getting the picture here. By using readily available, natural, no cost(that's the best part) materials, you can save a lot of cash to buy more trains!!!
> 
> Bob


i can see using the real dirt and rocks but how are you using weeds for trees without them drying up and wilting etc.etc.


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## Tarbilly (Mar 12, 2009)

Ok, ok...I'll include a picture when I finish it. 

I just assumed no one would want to see the horrible mess I ended up with.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

No you misunderstood(or avoiding). I wanted to see the mistake. Your first try. hwell: You didn't throw it out did you?

Naturally we all would like to see the completed project.
I will let it be, if you want. 
B&M showed his melted boxcar. That was good.


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## stationmaster (Dec 7, 2008)

mltoyz said:


> i can see using the real dirt and rocks but how are you using weeds for trees without them drying up and wilting etc.etc.


Using parts of plants such as Baby's Breath, Statice, and similar woody/stemmy type weeds, I use them for the trunk and branches of the trees. I roll the "branches" in glue and then in "flocking". The results are amazing, and cheap.

I also use mosses for ground cover. Grind up dead leaves real fine and apply also for ground cover for harvested soy bean or wheat fields...... There are many things one can use in the hobby that don't cost a dime. One must just think outside of the box.

Bob


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## Tarbilly (Mar 12, 2009)

*Avoidance issues*

It's true, T-man. I didn't want anyone to see my horrid, horrid mistake.:retard: I must admit to avoiding sharing. What's more, I have thrown it out. Sorry. 

While I'm waiting for the replacement building to be delivered, I'm working on something else. I will post that immediately upon completion. When I'm done with the replacement building, I will post that too.

Be gentle. I'm very delicate.


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## Tarbilly (Mar 12, 2009)

BTW, thanks to all for the encouragement. I know now that I can screw up royally and not be overly embarrassed.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I found the boxcar picture
Here

I am working on some HO cabooses now. I use brown and pumpkin acrylic.
Look here

Another suggestion is buy used and abused even parts like plasticville. Practice on those before spoiling an expensive model. 
Enjoy


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## Tarbilly (Mar 12, 2009)

OK, that's a messed up train.

From now on, I swear to post all my mistakes and successes with PICTURES!


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## Lester Perry (Nov 7, 2008)

Hey can anyone read jkwlx331 comment #19?


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*My Try*

Okay, I painted up a Ho building. I used sandstone for the top and red for the bottom. I rubbed some sandstone on the brick to give it dimension. Not firstclass but it works. I have my milk jug glass. This building will hide my auto reverse unit when it is done. All acrylic no thinner or stripper pure water base.


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## trainmaster24 (Jan 25, 2010)

I have a question. I bought a locomotive and I wanted to paint it UP Light Orange. I did not prime it, and I handled it a lot before hand. I used a Badger airbrush kit and I was spraying Floquil UP Light Orange, 25% thinner and 75% paint. The paint seems to run, puddle and drip. I think this has to do with me holding the airbrush less than 6" away, or its because it wasn't primed. I saw an article on Model RR and saw that the amount of paint could be the issue. I tried thinning the paint more and make faster passes, but it still dripped and would not stick at all. 
Anyone got any solutions? This is my first ever airbrushing.


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## stationmaster (Dec 7, 2008)

Well, first of all, I would never suggest anyone painting a car or engine without first practicing on an old "junk" car or engine. Even just a piece of plastic or wood.

Secondly, start over. Remove the paint from your engine using 91% isopropyl alcohol. Wash and rinse well. PRIMER the engine to add a bit of "tooth". read the instruction to your air brush. I don't know the paint you are using, but different types, as well as manufacturers, have different viscosities for different airbrushes. You will be more familiar with the results with practice.

Thirdly, there is no "cut and dry", "etched in stone" formula for thinning paint, even those by the same manufacturer. Try this link, it may help.

http://www.craigcentral.com/models/thinning.asp

Bob


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## trainmaster24 (Jan 25, 2010)

I tried it on some plasticard I had, but it did the same. I did it on the tender only last time, because it has flat surfaces so if I mess up, I can wipe it and clean it easily. I bought primer yesterday and it should be on the way. 
The paint I am using is *Floquil UP Light Orange by Testors*. 

Thanks stationmaster for the link too.


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## TulsaFlyer (Sep 21, 2009)

Try using less thinner.
Prime the surface to be painted.
What pressure are you spraying with? Start off with 10-15psi and work your way up if neccessary.
Don't try to put on too much paint in one pass.
Spray on light coats until you get the desired results you're after.


Jody


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## stationmaster (Dec 7, 2008)

?????10#-15#????????? A might low, I'd think. I'd also check your tip, it may be too large. And if the paint is translucent and running, I think you have the paint thinned too much.

Bob


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## TulsaFlyer (Sep 21, 2009)

Yep, 10-15 to start, and work up if neccessary to get the paint flowing. 
I rarely go over 20.


Jody


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## trainmaster24 (Jan 25, 2010)

I will try that. Thank you all for your help. I am priming it, then using the right thinner... I apparently was supposed to use Floquil Dio-Sol.


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