# Battery powered soldering iron



## Mister Bill (Jan 30, 2014)

I saw at Lowes's a battery powered Weller soldering iron for $19+. I think it was 6-8 watts and 900 degrees.

I am sure it can be criticized, but is that of use to a railroad modelers? It sure would be nice to not be tied to a cord.

I would use it for installing lights and LED's in engines, maybe a little track work.

Bill


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

As one who has fought the losing battle of
tangled soldering iron cords for decades I
would look with favor on a wireless version.

I would assume the major drawback would
be battery drain. It would think the stand
would be the charging station and each time
you returned the unit charging would start.

Sure looking forward to user reports.

Don


----------



## Tom_C (Jan 8, 2016)

It might be a little hot. I haven't really been bothered with the cord at a work bench, but it might be nice in a tight spot on or under the layout.


----------



## Anthem 2 (Feb 8, 2017)

Years ago I had a battery powered soldering iron to do radio work. It did ok for small work or if you didn't need it for too long. It did recharge when placed back in its stand. I am sure the batteries are much better today so for that price might not be too much of a gamble


----------



## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Battery "power" for a soldering iron*



Mister Bill said:


> I saw at Lowes's a battery powered Weller soldering iron for $19+. I think it was 6-8 watts and 900 degrees.
> 
> I am sure it can be criticized, but is that of use to a railroad modelers? It sure would be nice to not be tied to a cord.
> 
> ...


 I tried two different brand/models years back. Neither was worth spit! They just barely developed enough heat to melt the solder itself! Neither could heat even a small part enough for the part to melt solder. Doing that is essential for making a good solder joint. I use conventional, AC cord-powered, pencil style, irons; because they actually work! Heating an iron's tip to the point where it can transfer enough heat to a part; so that the part can melt solder takes a good deal of SUSTAINED electrical power. Newer battery technology MAY be able to do that, but a cord connected to the electrical grid CAN do that. 
Try the Loews iron if you like. It's cheap enough, but save the receipt. You may want your money back!:rippedhand:
Let us know if it works. I can certainly be wrong (and I often am; just ask my wife!:smilie_auslachen

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I myself would be extremely skeptical of the utiluty of such a device. The cord isn't such a nuisance that i would trade it for reuced power and duration. One big problem with battery powered tools is that the rated specs are often available only with a fully charged battery, and can rapidly degrade with only a few minutes of use.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Mister Bill said:


> I think it was *6-8 watts* and 900 degrees.


IMO, this says it all. I think you'll be mighty disappointed when you try to solder anything larger than a #28 wire. That's simply not enough power to solder anything at all substantial.


----------



## Mister Bill (Jan 30, 2014)

I forgot to say, but it comes with four DuraCell AA batteries. That is the power source.

Bill


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Look at the reviews on Amazon and judge for yourself if it's worthwhile.

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-BP860MP-Battery-Powered-Soldering-Colors/dp/B000S63P9E


----------



## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

I had a rechargeable soldering iron in the 90's that worked pretty good. A lot of field work without a convenient outlet, an extension cord is not convenient. The only trouble was old battery technology (ni cads) doesn't last forever and the built in cells with tabs aren't even made any more. Four AA should be swappqed out for Nickel hydroxide cells and will probably last longer. At that price I'd definitely give it a try.:thumbsup:


----------



## Mister Bill (Jan 30, 2014)

The Amazon reviews were fairly positive. There were some you tube reviews that were mostly positive.

I am going to use it along with the corded one I have.

I look forward when I need a fast, simple fix.


----------



## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

If it saves you from getting solder under your fingernail while upside down wrestling the cord around the soldering pencil - its worth it! I think there are a few members that use a battery op soldering pencil while soldering wires.


----------



## daschnoz (Dec 12, 2016)

I had a butane powered one from RadioShack years ago. I don't remember why, but it died. I wish I still had it.

If the goal is to cut the cord, I think you'll be happier with a butane powered soldering pen.


----------



## emmetd (Aug 1, 2012)

find a butane powered one, they work great.
i have two brands and both work well. one is a weller, forget what the other is.
the heat can be adjusted, can't do that with battery one.
neither one of the ones i have were cheap.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Mister Bill said:


> The Amazon reviews were fairly positive. There were some you tube reviews that were mostly positive.
> 
> I am going to use it along with the corded one I have.
> 
> I look forward when I need a fast, simple fix.


You call that positive? One out of three thought it was junk! 50% of the buyers gave it a 1 or 2 rating, that's not really all that positive in my mind.

Certainly as someone that soldered a ton of connections, both PCB and other uses, I would not find this one all that useful.


----------



## Nikola (Jun 11, 2012)

I have a Snap-On butane powered soldering iron. It is fantastic.

It comes with many interchangeable tips for fine to coarse soldering, heat welding and shrinking shrink tubing. And you dial in the amount of heat needed.

It refills easily, heats very quickly and has a decent-sized tank, and is often my go-to soldering iron.


----------



## Mister Bill (Jan 30, 2014)

I went reckless and spent $20. 

I think I am going to like my Weller battery powered.

So far, it does everything I want to do and very quickly.

I can use it fast anywhere. I have several desks indoors and several workstations in my workshop. 

I will no longer be a slave to the cord, and I can throw it in my traveling tool bag.

More importantly, I don't have to worry about the springy cord accidentally colliding my iron with my $500 plastic steam engine that might happen to be in the vicinity.


----------



## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

Glad to hear it works for you! A first hand success is far better than a bunch of anonymous reviews!:smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## Nikola (Jun 11, 2012)

In my experience with battery soldering irons the issue is not how well they work but how long they last, and that is a function of what type batteries and battery maintenance diligence.

Reason is that their batteries tend to get sucked down and depending on the battery type, that shortens their lifespan.

If the batteries are of a type that do not like deep discharges, operator mindfulness can make it last a lot longer.


----------



## ExONRcarman (Feb 7, 2017)

as a personal preference, butane any day.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

A butane iron would be death to circuit boards I suspect.


----------



## ExONRcarman (Feb 7, 2017)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> A butane iron would be death to circuit boards I suspect.


Nope. point the exhaust away from the board, all is good. In fact once you know how to control your iron, it is safer on boards. go in, replace part on board and get out before any real heat transfer happens anywhere else on the board. 

Like anything else tho, practice is required


----------



## Nikola (Jun 11, 2012)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> A butane iron would be death to circuit boards I suspect.


Not sure why this would be a concern unless there are different types of butane irons.

The type I am referring to do not have any exposed flame. The flame is inside a chimney and heats a ceramic element that gives off IR and the radiated and conducted heat heats the tip that stands a ways away from where this is all happening. Any exhaust is well away from the tip and at right angles, so the medium being soldered never sees any of that. You know when these are lit not by seeing a flame (there really is no way to see the flame) but by peeking through the tiny exhaust ports and seeing the element glowing red hot. There are usually two ways to control the heat: a gas valve as on a butane lighter and by increasing or decreasing the exhaust opening by rotating a slotted sleeve. More open, more airflow, more heat.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Nikola said:


> Not sure why this would be a concern unless there are different types of butane irons.


I suspect you may not realize how sensitive many parts are to excessive heat. I've used several butane irons, and I don't know any of them that have any sort of accurate temperature regulation. For instance, I use some specialty LED's are very sensitive to heat. I soldered a bunch of flickering LED parts to a PCB, and it killed half of them. I tried a second board and ditto! I found out I have to drop the temperature down to around 500F where I can barely melt the solder in order not to kill the parts. I have zero confidence that would work with a butane soldering iron.

If you're soldering doing wiring or similar work, obviously the absolute temperature control isn't a big issue. However, a specifically stated for PCB work, and I stand by that comment.


----------



## Tom_C (Jan 8, 2016)

If the iron works for you, then use it. I don't think it will cause any problems if you don't melt anything. If you damage something, then you'll know better next time 

If you have a special part without experience with it, then be cautious, otherwise, go for it.

Back in the day we had to use heatsinks when soldering most stuff. If you're concerned, use a heatsink.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'm curious where you put the heatsink on this package?


----------



## Nikola (Jun 11, 2012)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I suspect you may not realize how sensitive many parts are to excessive heat. I've used several butane irons, and I don't know any of them that have any sort of accurate temperature regulation. For instance, I use some specialty LED's are very sensitive to heat. I soldered a bunch of flickering LED parts to a PCB, and it killed half of them. I tried a second board and ditto! I found out I have to drop the temperature down to around 500F where I can barely melt the solder in order not to kill the parts. I have zero confidence that would work with a butane soldering iron.
> 
> If you're soldering doing wiring or similar work, obviously the absolute temperature control isn't a big issue. However, a specifically stated for PCB work, and I stand by that comment.


I totally agree that a butane iron is not the go-to for PCB work, but by the same token neither would be a battery iron. But as you clarified, the issue would be too broad a tip and/or excessive temperature as opposed to the exhaust.

I have used butane irons on PCB boards BUT only for selective work (components less sensitive to over temp) and using a high-quality Snap-On butane iron with the proper tip and a measure of heat regulation. Also, if the tip is small enough and well tinned, you can usually get in and out quickly enough. 

I guess also that from the nature of PCB work, using a butane iron is just going to waste a lot of fuel because it tends to be fiddly work.


----------



## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I like my butane iron, but I don't do circuit boards for me it helped me solder better, to be honest it is my worst skill set.


----------



## ExONRcarman (Feb 7, 2017)

Heres a pic of my cheap iron. it works just fine for wiring, doesnt hold a lot of fuel tho. anything on boards or important items i use my expensive one. it has better rips and holds enough fuel to do any job no mater how long.


----------



## NAJ (Feb 19, 2016)

Mister Bill said:


> I went reckless and spent $20.
> 
> I think I am going to like my Weller battery powered.
> 
> ...


Which one did you buy?
The Weller BP865MP?
I just bought one to use on the tiny wires and thin wheel wipers but I cannot remove the battery cap, seems to be a common issue according to the reviews.
If you have the same one how did you get the battery cover off?


----------



## NAJ (Feb 19, 2016)

Just to shed some more light on this subject and this is just my experience.

I was an Auto Tech for 33 years and used cored soldering irons and butane soldering irons, both had their issues.
On corded irons the tips wear and get dirty (especially sitting in a toolbox in a shop that is damp, hot, cold, dirty, etc.)
The butane irons also get dirty and will not allow the butane to flow properly so they either will not light or will light and go out while soldering.

Using a corded soldering iron in my apartment with limited space on my table is a PITA, need an extension cord, the cord on the iron gets in the way, in the holder/stand it is in the way, etc.

I purchased the Weller Cordless shown above and it works exactly as advertised, gets hot quickly and works GREAT for light duty soldering, solder melts easily/quickly with no issues.
I did purchase a spool of .8mm rosin core solder which will flow much easier than the thicker electrical solder sold in the home improvement stores.

For model train work I give the Weller Cordless a BIG :thumbsup:

On a side note...
It only took a little squeeze with a pair of channel locks and the battery cover came right off.
Now it comes off easily.


----------



## Mister Bill (Jan 30, 2014)

It is one of the best $20 bucks I have ever spent. If it croaks, I can scrape up another $20 and be hassle free and safe for a long time.


----------



## Glock1735 (Jan 7, 2017)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I'm curious where you put the heatsink on this package?


Surface mount device's are installed with hot air and will withstand the heat. I do repairs of surface mount and with very thin tip iron you can usually get them attach with out any damage. The trick is to tin the board and be quick when solder the device.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I know how to install them, I was just curious about how he put a heatsink on them.  I've build a bunch of boards of my own design with surface mount. Remember, he was talking about a butane soldering iron, those get a LOT hotter than the hot air station or my temperature controlled soldering station. Truthfully, most of the SMT stuff is put on with IR nowadays, hot air is really used for rework.


----------

