# 3562 barrel car



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I found this over the weekend at a train show, With a low price I could not resist. I got a man at the parts table and it does work. 

My picture account has a new style and is out to get me. I cannot do anything as fast as before . I will have to continue later.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You can go back to the old Photobucket format, that's what I did. I find their new format to be more kludgy.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I thought I did that before but I am stuck in the new ALice WOnderlandhwell: I will have to search for the rabbit hole. I lost that button.

Here is a close up, mainly dirt.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Shell and innards*

I did have a cracked corner, so what is a restore without some expoxy. Boring!


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*The T-man Tango Time To Transform the Target Thing*

So I have a good deal, with all the parts and it works. Just a point, the barrels more on a spring supported ramp and is vibrated by a cylinder .










Tango, the frame is painted.






































TIme to transform, first I stripped the paint.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Strip*

I worked the ramp first. Just light sanding and a coat of grey primer on the top and sides. The bottom was unfinished so I blued the surface.



















You can see the spring suppot on the left.










The frame was primed first. Wartmart greyprimer and gloss black.

The frame was stripped with paint remover and scotchbrite. The paint went fast and I finished with a wire wheel and rubbing compound ,again with scotchbrite and at last, cleaned with paint thinner.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Word on wiring.*

Very simple. Power is picked up from a third and fourth rail like a 6019 track. 
The trucks have the sliding shoe.










Both wires go to the coil. The coil is soldered to the side of the cup which is grounded to the frame.










Now to clean the trucks. As if I have not done that before.


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## AG216 (Sep 28, 2011)

Nice restoration!
the coil is just for vibration or trigger something?
Andre.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The coil vibrates the ramp and causes the barrels to "walk" up the ramp. Same technique as the Lionel 362 Barrel Loader.


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

Nice find, I have one of them. Mine is a fairly clean 3652-150 (orange body) which requires a rewire. Since I don't have the activator track or controller, I've been putting it off. I found out the hard way the lettering is delicate when cleaning, sucks rubbed a couple letters off with gentle cleaning.

Carl


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The mechanism is simple. I would think a USC or a 6019 track would run it The manual had a few variations. One had a clip on specifically for that car to place on the track. 

If you run it wth a track piece use only one shoe connection. I am not sure how they are wired. CHeck the wiring before a test run.

When I get an opportunity I will do a video on the operation without a shell. It would be interesting just to see it work. Good Idea.

You always have to be careful with lettering. That is one reason I take before pictures. My brother owns the orange version too.


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

T-Man said:


> The mechanism is simple. I would think a USC or a 6019 track would run it The manual had a few variations. One had a clip on specifically for that car to place on the track.


I have that clip then, just didn't know what it was for. Looks like the lock-on with 2 rails, with the ground going to the rails. I'll just have to come up with a controller.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I converted one that I have to TMCC operation so I can drop barrels anywhere on the track.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

A picture of the items. The clip and button are in the lower right.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Fun action car, T!

Do the barrels need to be metallic / magnetic, or does that use wood barrels?

TJ


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

The barrels are wood. I vaguely remember seeing it work as a kid, was cool. I also have the old log dump car, not sure it works yet. Once I get the trigger components set up, I'll get to fixing things. Do you happen to know the part number on the switch offhand? If not I can search for it. That clip looks exactly like mine.

Carl


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I guess we are all learning something today. 

TJ, the barrels are all wood. The vibrating drives the barrels. Why they go up and not down I have no idea why.  A mystery.

Kickster, thank you for mentioning the clip. I did a search and have one. Neat!
:thumbsup:

They button is a number 90 controller and is not made anymore. A train show item. Just about any momentary switch would work.

Expect to see more on the controller I need to fix one case. It's on the plaster list.



















It needs some cleaning.
The manual also showed a 96c controller. A metal version of the 90 controller. I did find one in the junk box. Now I need some fresh batteries to show youhwell:.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Here's the way the motion works drives the barrels. 

The vibrating coil moves the ramp back and forth. When the ramp of either of these accessories moves toward the up side, the vibration mounts also cam the ramp up slightly, when it moves toward the down side, the ramp cams down. Look at the angle of the spring steel mounts, they slant toward the bottom of the ramp. If you push the ramp toward the high side, it tends to rise. When the ramp is rising, it carries the barrels along, when it falls, they just drop straight down onto the ramp a bit higher than before.

Obviously, this is happening at 60hz, so you don't see the vibration, but you can sure here it.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Truck cleaning*

Why you use a small screwdriver, first to scrape the wheels.



















The pans have the pickup shoe. I did not replace the wire. I cleaned the inside with a q tip and Goo Gone, No rust was present . So I just needed to paint the bottom exterior. I did epoxy the shoe backing. I do not want them to break, ever.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Final Phase Roll Out the Barrel*

:thumbsup:Hire the worker. Solder up the connections. The speed nuts for the ramp have some slack. It is better to place the shell on first to center the ramp before it's tighten. Then it was ready, for a spin around the track. 

I have to look at the track sections. They didn't work. Something else to do. The bench test proved it has plenty of power. Half throttle was enough to move the barrels. The ground is good for the wheels.






























The letering appears to be dark blue making this variation b in the Tandem Library. Maybe it is Royal Blue?





John thanks for the explanation on the ramp operation :thumbsup:.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Defies gravity ... magic, I say ... magic!!!

Nice restoration work, T!

TJ


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

T-man I noticed your clip is missing one rail. Bummer. It should have a "rail" between both outer rails.

Yup we're all getting more info on those machines


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I didn't notice that, but you are right. I will get a" back" picture. I think there is more missing. Nice observation, I wasn't even looking for that. I even cleaned it up!
It is noticeable when installed on the rail.


TJ, it is just nice to get it cleaned up and running. It just had too much rust on the frame. A nice little weekend project I am not sure what else I canget to this weekend.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*The missing rail and 96c controller*


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

Looking at the pictures it appears complete except for the missing rail. I only really noticed that because I had mine sitting on my desk  I'm wondering if the switch inside is a simple on/off type or if there's more to them. Might be able to come up with something.

Carl


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## santafe158 (Jul 14, 2010)

Kwikster said:


> Looking at the pictures it appears complete except for the missing rail. I only really noticed that because I had mine sitting on my desk  I'm wondering if the switch inside is a simple on/off type or if there's more to them. Might be able to come up with something.
> 
> Carl


The 96C T-Man posted is just a simple momentary push button on/off switch. I have one for my O-27 uncoupling section, and have also used it to turn accessories on and off.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Inside revealed 90 controller*


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Not much to the #90 huh?
I have watched some of those go for a big buck on e bay, go figure.

T man, why don't you take a little epoxy and make some boots for the new hire? A couple little blobs, then a little whittling and a splash of black paint would do it.

Nice job epoxy-man.:thumbsup:


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I sold a bunch of these for big money on eBay, figured I would never use them anyway.  I guess there are still the retro crowd that wants the original controls.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Switches don't get much simpler than those, I guess!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I got a bunch of them, I like the look of the big orange button instead of a toggle switch.
And it has the L, Lionel on the button.:thumbsup:


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

T-man have to say, a little late, man it looks good. Your wire job looks great. I'm sending my stuff to you to fix from now on!


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## larry g (Oct 8, 2012)

Question on how this car is powered:
When I unload my barrel car on the remote track I have to use the "UNCOUPLE" button on the remote, rather than the "UNLOAD" button that I expected I would have use to activate the car.
When one of the shoes makes contact with the 4th rail, it appears that the vibrating coil must also be directly above the center uncoupler contact (center rail). (I see that the coil is also adjustable forward and back.) 
Is there an activation circuit that is completed by the shoe contacting the 4th rail, as well as live activation of the vibrator coil by the uncoupling magnet? 
My car works fine, as long as it is exactly lined up (with coil exactly over uncoupler), so this (and the fact that I have to press the "UNCOUPLE" button,) makes me think that both things are going on (4th rail to one of the shoes and uncoupler to coil). 
This is opposed to how the milk car works, only using the 4th rail to shoe (or to both shoes?) and the "UNLOAD" button.
Do I have this right? Please explain.
Thanks,
lar


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Only one shoe has to make contact. The track clip was shown in my thread.

Both wires are a feed to the coil.


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## larry g (Oct 8, 2012)

*Still not making sense to me on my test layout:*

That's what I always thought. 
But....... why would the following be happening for my post war barrel car with my modern un-coupler track?
1. it only works over one exact spot on the remote control track, even though the shoe can make contact anywhere on one of the 2" long 4th rails. I think this spot is when the barrel car coil is directly over the uncoupler center coil?
2. it only works when I press the "uncouple" button, and not at all when I press the "unload" button (as opposed to the milk car: press "unload" button, to 4th rail, to the shoe, to the milk car coil)
This is the dilemma I am trying to understand. Does the center uncoupler coil have to lie directly under the barrel car coil and activate it, in addition to the shoe being on the 4th rail? Or is something wrong with my old barrel car?
Thanks for your patience,
lar


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The special lock on was for the brakeman car. Oops.

Could be a dirty track.


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## larry g (Oct 8, 2012)

*More confusion about barrel car that works, but not as expected*

maybe I have a loose wire or another open in the circuit, or the coil is cooked and the vibration from the uncoupler track works perfectly to move the barrels up nicely when it is centered exactly under the non-energized coil, and in that case I might be cooking it more?? I guess I need to connect voltage between the shoe and a wheel & see if the coil works?
Not dirty track- milk car works perfectly on that activator.
Maybe weak spring that holds done shoe to contact track?
-lar


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I just wanted to show the quality of this figure in comparison to the other.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Who's who, T? Old vs. repro? Somewhat different pose. And which do you think is better? Hard to tell from the pics.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'm guessing the "old" one is the one with a hole in his pants.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The second guy is a repro from the last train show. Both are. Big difference huh?

Good OLe Jeff Top Quality Parts.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

The second one is the one I have on my barrel car. Is one more correct to the original than the other?


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I just thought there was a big diference and passed it along.


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