# questions on track



## little fat buddy (Jan 14, 2011)

hi guys so im going to make the ump an use flextrack on the layout over thek ato stuff the kato stuff is not bad but i like the look of the flex an sepratly ballasted track over the one peice stuff. 
my questions are 
1 what are thoughts on staggering joints for curves an will 26 an 24 inch radius be too tight a curve to lay sucesffully with flex track.
2 what size drill bit is required for drilling the holes for track spikes in the ties since none of my flex has them it has dimples to drill them just wnat to get the right size bit. 
and finally whats better for cutting track rail nippers or a rzzor saw thanks for evyerones time.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

flextrackisprobablyyourbest bet. Use a Dremelcuutoffwheeltotrimthetrack.StagardjointsarewhatIusedonmylayout.drillbitsize i1/16"forAtlastracktodrillthoughthebacksideoftheties.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

A word of caution about using track nail. Its easy to deform the track when using track nails. You might consider just using latex caulk (spread thinly) instead.


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## fcwilt (Sep 27, 2013)

Hi,

I think flex track is worth the effort.

Staggered joints certainly cannot hurt although I didn't do that on mine and have been happy with the results. I did solder my joints.

24" is not a problem.

I glued mine down. Lots of choices for for that sort of adhesive to use. I use Woodland Scenic's Foam Tack.

Frederick


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Lemonhawk said:


> A word of caution about using track nail. Its easy to deform the track when using track nails. You might consider just using latex caulk (spread thinly) instead.


I'll second that recommendation. The caulk grabs right away, but you have some working time to get it "just so". Weight it until the caulk cures.

And in case it isn't obvious, this also means that you don't have to drill holes in your track, either.


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## little fat buddy (Jan 14, 2011)

okay i will look into the using caulk how hard is it to move track once glued down meaning how permanent a bodn is the caulk say i make a mistake with track placment thanks.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

LFB

The key is use any adhesive sparingly when
gluing down track and road bed. That makes
any change easier. On curves
use a stick pin to hold the radius until adhesive
sets.

By all means use staggered joints on curves. It helps
prevent kinks. Some presolder two flex pieces to be used on a curve. Be sure to save the ties you pull off so you
can slip them back on the rails before soldering joint. 
They hold the rails in gauge.

Don


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## little fat buddy (Jan 14, 2011)

okay thanks for the advice what particualr adheasive is reccomended an i plan on doing the staggered joints jsut wnated to hear some thougths on that seems to be the better method for not having kinks in the joints


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## JerryH (Nov 18, 2012)

The joints on a curve will want to stagger anyway and should be staggered if you are using insulated joiners. If you are using regular joiners that are going to be soldered, then you don't have to stagger them. Make sure they are soldered as straight first. That requires a little pre planning before laying the track permanently on curves. I normally use staggered joints everywhere except at turnouts, crossings, and bridges.


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## JerryH (Nov 18, 2012)

I use cheap latex caulk and if done sparingly, you can pull up the track by slipping a thin blade between the ties and roadbed to break the bond later. A thin bead down the middle is usually sufficient to hold the track. A thick layer an inch wide is way more than what is needed and will make it more difficult to remove as well more costly in excess glue and maybe broken track.


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## little fat buddy (Jan 14, 2011)

okay cool i will check out the adheasive section next tiem na see what the chepaest latex caulk is thanks for all the tips guys.


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## Dennis461 (Jan 5, 2018)

little fat buddy said:


> okay thanks for the advice what particualr adheasive is reccomended an i plan on doing the staggered joints jsut wnated to hear some thougths on that seems to be the better method for not having kinks in the joints


I use Atlas flex track which is springy and wants to pll back ito a straight line.
This makes it difficult to prevent kinks at joints if not careful.
So I put down about have the curve (18 of 36") with adhesive or nails, then bend the loose part of the track around until I see how the rails stagger.
Cut off the ties that are hanging over or in the way of a rail joiner.
Take the next flex track and align to its final destination with temporary tacks, you do not need holes in the ties for this.
Cut off the ties that are hanging over or in the way of a rail joiner.
Now with the two tracks aligned for length, ties cut off.

Important part.
Unleash the free end of the already glued/tacked section.
Unleash the second section.
Align ends to STRAIGHT.
Solder rail joiners on.

complete the gluing of first section and half of the second section.
The connecting soldered joint should curve icely into place with no kink.

Other folks may have other methods, mine works for me.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

little fat buddy said:


> okay cool i will check out the adheasive section next tiem na see what the chepaest latex caulk is thanks for all the tips guys.


DAP is widely available and inexpensive. I use gray.


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