# Kato Unitrack or Atlas Snap Track?



## Burbs (Mar 28, 2014)

I‘ve finally decided on my HO scale layout size which will be 5x9 and I have access around the entire thing, therefore reach won’t be an issue. Yesterday I started to work on my layout in Scarm and was using Atlas snap track. As I’ve researched this hobby, I’ve seen a lot of Kato Untitrack and Atlas and of course, it’s all user preference. 

That being said, as someone who is a complete newbie to this hobby, which one would be better suited for a complete novice? I’ve read about the Atlas turnout issues and plan on using Peco and I assume they’ll work with Kato, no?

Any feedback would be appreciated as this week I am working on my track layout, which is a whole other story!!! Not easy to say the least. 

Thanks.


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

No, peco turnouts will not work with unitrack. If you use unitrack (kato) you must use their turnouts. The good news is that they are reliable. Kato unitrack is a road bed track and not compatible with anything else. 

I'm guessing you havn't actually looked into kato track. Look it up and you'll understand. That said, I kind of wish I would have used it for my HO layout. I'm using it on my N scale and it's great. Everything works fantastically. No messing around with turnouts or controls. Plug them in, they work. 

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk


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## Burbs (Mar 28, 2014)

vette-kid said:


> No, peco turnouts will not work with unitrack. If you use unitrack (kato) you must use their turnouts. The good news is that they are reliable. Kato unitrack is a road bed track and not compatible with anything else.
> 
> I'm guessing you havn't actually looked into kato track. Look it up and you'll understand. That said, I kind of wish I would have used it for my HO layout. I'm using it on my N scale and it's great. Everything works fantastically. No messing around with turnouts or controls. Plug them in, they work.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk


I actually haven’t but the idea of just having something that is “plug n play” really appeals to me and keeping it all uniform with one manufacturer as well.


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## Burbs (Mar 28, 2014)

Kato works with DCC right?


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Any track will work for DC or DCC

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

For the plastic base style track you'll find most agree that Kato is the better of them. I can't say about their switches. While it's not impossible, mixing these brands of pre molded base track is hard... Maybe a transition piece could do it. But I think unless you really have to do it, or just feel you must "because it's there" ... I'd stick with one brand for that style track.


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## Gramps (Feb 28, 2016)

My layout is with Kato Unitrack and I'm very pleased with it. Their website is www.katousa.com. You can check it out and decide if the track is what you want. It is more expensive than standard track but for me, at my age and skill level, it was money well spent. Not having to buy cork roadbed and ballast does lower the cost differential somewhat. Good luck with whatever you decide.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

Burbs said:


> I‘ve finally decided on my HO scale layout size which will be 5x9 and I have access around the entire thing, therefore reach won’t be an issue. Yesterday I started to work on my layout in Scarm and was using Atlas snap track. As I’ve researched this hobby, I’ve seen a lot of Kato Untitrack and Atlas and of course, it’s all user preference.
> 
> That being said, as someone who is a complete newbie to this hobby, which one would be better suited for a complete novice? I’ve read about the Atlas turnout issues and plan on using Peco and I assume they’ll work with Kato, no?
> 
> ...


Burbs;

Atlas "Snap Track" Is their name for their sectional track. No plastic roadbed under it, rigid curves & straights, does not lock together. The "Snap Track" line includes the infamous Atlas "Snap Switch" turnout which has serious derailment issues unless modified. Even after modification, it won't be as good as a Peco turnout. Fortunately, you can use Peco turnouts with Atlas track, as long as the rail codes are the same. For example track & turnouts both code 100, or both code 83. It's possible to mix rail codes, but a lot easier to just use one code, especially for a newbie.
However, If you were going to use non-roadbed track, then I would use Atlas, or Peco, flex track, rather than "Snap Track" sectional track. You can use flex for straight track, or any radius curve you want. It has fewer rail joints, since each piece is 36" long. Fewer rail joints means smoother track and fewer places for derailments to happen. Flex track is also less expensive than either "Snap Track," or roadbed track.

On the other hand Kato Unitrack is more expensive, but super-easy to use and very high quality. This includes the Kato turnouts, which have an excellent reputation for high reliability, and few derailments, that rivals Peco. The Unitrack line is also more extensive than "the other roadbed track," Bachmann EZ-Track.(which has terrible turnouts)
Kato's selection of available track pieces is equal to the selection of "Snap Track" pieces. Since you are new, and you like the idea of snap together & stay together, I recommend using Kato Unitrack. 

The files below have lots of information on track types, track planning, turnouts, layout types & shapes, and model railroading in general. Look through them if you like.

Good Luck & Have Fun;

Traction Fan 🙂


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## nsmustang55ol (Sep 3, 2021)

This is my first layout, fixing to dismantle and redo about twice the size now that I have the space. It’s all KATO track. I opted to ballast it to get away from the plastic look. I think it turned out ok. I was into trains as a kid and we used flex track so when I was getting into it again 25 years later I was going to use flex track and a man at the hobby store looked at me crazy and said he recommends KATO track. Very happy I did. I was also going to do a DC layout with power blocks like I remember. I’m glad he told me about DCC!!!! Blew my mind.!!! you can mix track but like I’ve noticed the Ties won’t look the same which may be ok becasue in real life their different depending on age. Id image you’d have to have a “transition piece” and the elevation may change slightly going from or to plastic roadbed from cork. It’s doable. Half the fun is making it work!!! Oh yea and all my turnouts are KATO. Over 15 of them. All work great with my homemade switch board.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

And you'd never know would you with that ballast on there? It looks great.


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## Steve Rothstein (Jan 1, 2021)

I am also a relative newbie and for my first layout, I used Kato Unitrack. I find it very easy to work with and the tips from Traction Fan and a few others have helped me solve all of the track problems I have had.

The one thing I have not seen mentioned to0 much (nsmustang55ol touched on it) is that you can mix Unitrack with flex track fairly easily. Kato makes flex track also (well has announced it anyway - I have not seen any in a store yet) and as part of that sells (or will sell) an adapter piece to go from the roadbed to the flex track. You would not have to use Kato flex track either, since that is all going to be fairly interchangeable - just keep an eye on the code to make sure the tops line up correctly. If I were to do that, I would probably use the Kato turnouts and then Kato flex track for anything else. But having used the Unitrack, I like Kato.


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## Steve Rothstein (Jan 1, 2021)

Severn said:


> And you'd never know would you with that ballast on there? It looks great.


You beat me to it while I was posting an answer about mixing tracks. That ballast over the Unitrack does look very good.


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## nsmustang55ol (Sep 3, 2021)

Thank you for the compliments. Layout is fixing to be dismantled and rebuilt. Current dimensions are 7x4. Going 11.5x4 u shaped. Interested in the flex track...and using my turnouts.


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## Burbs (Mar 28, 2014)

nsmustang55ol said:


> This is my first layout, fixing to dismantle and redo about twice the size now that I have the space. It’s all KATO track. I opted to ballast it to get away from the plastic look. I think it turned out ok. I was into trains as a kid and we used flex track so when I was getting into it again 25 years later I was going to use flex track and a man at the hobby store looked at me crazy and said he recommends KATO track. Very happy I did. I was also going to do a DC layout with power blocks like I remember. I’m glad he told me about DCC!!!! Blew my mind.!!! you can mix track but like I’ve noticed the Ties won’t look the same which may be ok becasue in real life their different depending on age. Id image you’d have to have a “transition piece” and the elevation may change slightly going from or to plastic roadbed from cork. It’s doable. Half the fun is making it work!!! Oh yea and all my turnouts are KATO. Over 15 of them. All work great with my homemade switch board.


Seriously, you’d never know. Looks great!


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

Burbs said:


> Seriously, you’d never know. Looks great!


You could make the track look even better by painting it before laying and ballasting over it. The easy way is to spray paint the entire track, including Kato's gray plastic "ballast" base, with a flat brown primer.

The harder, but really cool looking, way is to brush paint the ties, and then the rails. The turnout in the photo was hand painted this way.

Traction Fan 🙂


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## nsmustang55ol (Sep 3, 2021)

traction fan said:


> You could make the track look even better by painting it before laying and ballasting over it. The easy way is to spray paint the entire track, including Kato's gray plastic "ballast" base, with a flat brown primer. The harder, but really cool looking, way is to brush paint the ties, and then the rails. The turnout in the photo was painted this way.
> 
> Traction Fan 🙂


If you spray over the entire turnout, do you just have to remove the paint on top?


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

nsmustang55ol said:


> If you spray over the entire turnout, do you just have to remove the paint on top?


The turnout in the photo is one that I scratchbuilt, and hand painted. There was no spraying involved. Yes, I did have to clean the rail tops after painting. Even using a hand brush, some bits of paint may get where you don't want them. I cleaned the rail tops with a "Brite Boy" track cleaning block wet with a tiny bit of alcohol. (The Tamiya paint I use is alcohol-based.)

I suggested using a spray can for painting track. Keep the can at least 18" away from the track. Keep the can moving quickly, & well past the ends of the track pieces. Use several light coats, rather than one heavy coat.

I don't recommend spray painting turnouts at all. Instead, I would hand paint them. Spray cans put out a lot of paint in a very short time. Turnouts, particularly Kato turnouts with their enclosed switch machine in the roadbed base, have sensitive electrical contacts, and moving parts inside. They could easily be damaged by paint from a spray can. I showed the photo of a turnout simply because its one piece of track, with my painting method used on it, that I happen to have a photo of. 
Unlike a Kato turnout, there is no internal mechanism, or electrical contacts, on my turnouts. As with most non-roadbed turnouts, those things are separate, and external.

Traction Fan 🙂


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## nsmustang55ol (Sep 3, 2021)

traction fan said:


> The turnout in the photo is one that I scratchbuilt, and hand painted. There was no spraying involved. Yes, I did have to clean the rail tops after painting. Even using a hand brush, some bits of paint may get where you don't want them. I cleaned the rail tops with a "Brite Boy" track cleaning block wet with a tiny bit of alcohol. (The Tamiya paint I use is alcohol-based.)
> 
> I suggested using a spray can for painting track. Keep the can at least 18" away from the track. Keep the can moving quickly, & well past the ends of the track pieces. Use several light coats, rather than one heavy coat.
> 
> ...


I have about 20 KATO turnouts from my old layout,that will get used or most atleast with this new layout.I also found some Atlas Code 80 flex track. Ordered 30 pieces and track bed. I love the KATO track and I’ll problably use what I have in some areas but I love the idea of making my own radius with flex.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

nsmustang55ol said:


> I have about 20 KATO turnouts from my old layout,that will get used or most atleast with this new layout.I also found some Atlas Code 80 flex track. Ordered 30 pieces and track bed. I love the KATO track and I’ll problably use what I have in some areas but I love the idea of making my own radius with flex.


Sounds good. Post photos when you have laid your track. That Atlas flex will work for spray painting. 

Traction Fan 🙂


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## Marv (Feb 8, 2011)

I was in N scale for many years and used Atlas track and switches. My latest HO project I used KATO track and switches and I am pleased with the end result. Note, I did ballast the Kato track. One skill I did develop was cutting down Kato track to make custom track lengths. A neighbor I am helping is doing what I used to do, using cork, atlas track and switches. You use a different technique to ballast regular track vs. Kato track. Both brands of track will work well for whatever you want to do. Good Luck!


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## Bigfoot21075 (Aug 7, 2021)

I wonder if it is worth it to take a few days, and just paint track before I lay it down? I REALLY like the look of your turn out traction fan. Obviously you know how to mix paints to get the right look as well


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

Bigfoot21075 said:


> I wonder if it is worth it to take a few days, and just paint track before I lay it down? I REALLY like the look of your turn out traction fan. Obviously you know how to mix paints to get the right look as well


Bigfoot21075;

That depends on how important it is to you, personally, that your track look realistic. You are ,of course, the only one who can decide that, for your railroad.

Painting track can be done several ways. Some methods make track look more realistic than others, but any of them is likely to be better looking than bare plastic track. The more realistic effects you want, the longer it will take.
What brand, & type, of track are you using? How much of it do you have to paint?

If you're using flex, or sectional, (non-roadbed) track, the simple way to improve its looks is to take it outside and spray paint the entire pieces of track, ties and rails, a rust brown color. I use Rustoleum, or Krylon, flat brown primer. These are available at Walmart, Home Depot, & Lowes. Spray cans discharge lots of paint in a big hurry! Keep the can moving well beyond the ends of the track. Keep the can at least 18" away from the track, and paint in several light coats, rather that one heavy coat. The whole point is to not get too much paint on the track and have the paint run. For many modelers, this spray painting is enough by itself. Others, like me, take it further, but I often start by spray painting my track. Of course, an airbrush could also be used instead of a spray can.

Roadbed tracks, like "Kato Unitrack", or "Bachmann EZ-Track", present some possible extra challenge, because the "ballast" piece is permanently attached to the track, which makes it very difficult to paint the track without also painting the ballast. Major & tedious masking would be needed, unless you can remove the ballast piece from the track. Atlas "True Track" has this capability, I think. I've heard that "True Track" is simply old fashioned Atlas sectional track, with a roadbed piece stuck underneath it. I don't use roadbed track, but if I did, I would just spray the ballast the same rust brown as the ties & rails, to start with.

Once you have the spray paint on, and thoroughly dry, (overnight is best) you can add more weathering effects if you want to. If you spray painted Kato, or Bachmann roadbed track, including the ballast, now is a good time to brush paint some gray onto the ballast. This doesn't need to cover every last bit of the rust brown color. A very little bit of that brown, showing through the gray, can pass for dirt.

I use flex track, specifically Micro Engineering's code 55, N-scale flex. Since my ballast is the traditional loose type, I don't need to paint a plastic ballast piece, and then re-paint it. I hand brush the ties with a dull brown color (Tamiya flat brown with about 10% of their "flat base" added) Then the rails , with an eyeball mix of mostly flat brown, a little orange, and a little flat base. I also thin my "Tie color" and "Rail color" mixtures with alcohol. (Tamiya is an alcohol-based model paint.) You can use any decent brand of model paint. Tamiya is just my favorite brand.
Since the mixing is by looks, try mixing a brush full of each color on a scrap piece of plastic,( I find the plastic trays from "Smart Ones" frozen diet meals make excellent "artist's pallets" ) until it looks like railroad ties, or rails. I sometimes go even further on track that is right up front, and can be closely examined. I use pastel chalks to add things like dust, dirt, rust, oil stains, & such. I dip an artist's brush in water, drag the bristles along the stick of chalk, and "paint" the water/chalk mixture onto the track. I have also used a thin wash of ink to add further weathering to the track.

Now there is no reason to go any further with this track painting business than you want to. You may be quite pleased with just the spray painting, or go one, two, or more steps beyond. That's entirely up to you. I find painting track, even by hand, goes pretty quickly. Real rails & ties are not all the same color, and there is no need for any sort of "artistic perfection" in track painting. The end result simply needs to look more like real track than the shiny plastic ties, & shiny silver rails, of commercial model track.
By the way, the chalk weathering techniques that work for track, also work for other things around the railroad. The freight cars in the photos were "painted" with chalks, right over their factory paint jobs.

Good Luck & Have Fun;

Traction Fan 🙂


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## Bigfoot21075 (Aug 7, 2021)

ANOTHER Amazingly helpful post - THANK YOU AGAIN Traction Fan. I am using mostly Kato, I will pre paint it.

Rob


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