# Oil for rolling stock



## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

OK I think I screwed myself! I was running 25 pcs of stock 1/2 metal wheels and 1/2 plastic. So I thought it might run better if I oiled the axles. :lol_hitting:
I used a small syringe and 3 in 1 Oil. 

The rolling stock runs little smoother but after a while I started loosing traction on the grade where I have NEVER had a problem.

Since I have wiped down the whole track with Alcohol and ran the track cleaner for a few hours and cleaned the Engines wheels numerous times also!

Man~O~Man is the Brass shiny though!  :laugh::laugh: 

The light doesn't flicker anymore.  And dead spots on Snap switches are gone! :dunno: But I have no traction! 

I even tried 600 grit sand paper on the grade to try and get traction!

Now I can't run more than 5 cars without spinning all over! How do I make the oil go away?? :thumbsdown:


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, you probably need to clean the wheels of all the rolling stock that is likely redepositing the oil back on the track.


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

If I may offer a suggestion: first, put the sandpaper back in the toolbox. Using it will lead to problems with excessive carbon buildup. The problem is that you have to remove the oil from both your wheels and your track. If you're going to begin with alcohol, the proper application device is an on-the-rocks glass. You see, when you swab with alcohol, the oil floats up to the surface until the alcohol evaporates, then settles nicely right back on your rails. Go to Walmart and buy some Googone (automotive section) or try some dish soap on a sponge to wipe the tracks (power off!). The idea is to use something that bonds to the oil, like soap, so you can remove it. So...wipe the tracks with GooGone, then wipe with alcohol to remove the residue of goop&Googone. I prefer the 90% stuff, as I hate applying water to the tracks. So, the process is drink, wipe with Googone, wipe with alcohol, drink, and repeat as often as necessary. Then follow the same process with your wheels, followed by parking each one on a clean cloth or similar for about 24 hours to let the oil drain someplace besides your tracks!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I buy 99% Isopropyl alcohol from Safeway. Not much water in that.


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## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

Thanks John & Reck! I have parked all the stock and been letting it sit on a section of track I don't really use. Maybe I will park them on paper towels far a while and let em' drip. Man I thought I was being careful only a drop per! hwell: OK Reck no more Sand paper.  I am going to see if we have some goo gone. Man and somebody a few days ago was suggesting ATF if I remember right. :smilie_auslachen::bs::lol_hitting:


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, AFT and oil are two different things, but I personally don't believe ATF is the right things for the rails anyway.


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

concretepumper said:


> OK I think I screwed myself! I was running 25 pcs of stock 1/2 metal wheels and 1/2 plastic. So I thought it might run better if I oiled the axles. :lol_hitting:I used a small syringe and 3 in 1 Oil. Now I can't run more than 5 cars without spinning all over! mad::thumbsdown:


Pumper, you had a good idea, but just chose the wrong method to implement it. There IS a way to achieve what you originally wanted, only it's not with oil. Instead, tuning the trucks of your rolling stock will do it. The less friction on their axcles, the smoother your cars will roll, thus the less work your engine will have to do to pull them. This means the amount of rolling stock your engine pulls can actually be increased after doing this.

This can easily be done with an unique a little tool that was made especially for this purpose. It's called a truck tuner. I have one of these and I've used it on every car I have, even the new ones. It has really made a difference--especially going up grades. Though using it on your rolling stock can be a little time consuming, the results afterward are well worth it. Here's the linc to the site that sells these. They explain in their add how this works.

http://www.micromark.com/HO-Truck-Tuner,8241.html

John


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Cute little tool, too bad it doesn't work for O-gauge.


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## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

Excellent! I will check my LHS for one!


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Maybe I'm a little too high tech but I use Teflon dust on mine and I have had Zero problems ever.


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## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

NIMT said:


> Maybe I'm a little too high tech but I use Teflon dust on mine and I have had Zero problems ever.


Teflon Dust? Never heard of it! Where do I get it? Like for locks?


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Labelle makes it #134 PTFE works great and cleaner than graphite powder!


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

I'd leave the ATF alone; I'm not sure what its composition is, but I made a mistake once that cured my "This'll work!" experimentation. I had an ancient IH Cub tractor, ablut 1952 vintage. It was low on hydraulic fluid and I didn't have the correct one at hand. I figured one hf was as good as another and dumped in what I had. A few weeks later, I was unbolting the entire hydraulic assembly to go to the shop for a rebuild: using the wrong hf softened the seals and the thing leaked like a sieve. From that, I learned to assume any oil-based fluid might be a solvent for plastic materials you apply it to.


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## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

Reck that is so true!
I am going to try and make it down to the LHS today and get more metal wheels & Kadees. 
That should help once I clean up all the Oil.  :laugh::laugh:


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

There are several types of ATF, and as Reckers has discovered the hard way, they are NOT compatible! There are a number of stories of mixing them back in the old days and the transmission promptly croaks! Ford and GM had to pick totally different fluids for their cars, how stupid is that!


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