# Three turnouts in a row?



## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

Just wondering if its possible to have 3 turnouts in a row with one of them turned the other way? I tried it with all the insulated pins in and it didnt work. If it'll will work, question is which insulated pin do I leave out. Photo attached.

Thanks Mike


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## Don Trinko (Oct 23, 2012)

I have three in a row, one on main line, then two more for 2 sidings. Some locos will stop on the siding turnouts if I go real slow and some will derail. ( mine are o27, that is probably the reason some derail.) Don


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## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

Don Trinko said:


> I have three in a row, one on main line, then two more for 2 sidings. Some locos will stop on the siding turnouts if I go real slow and some will derail. ( mine are o27, that is probably the reason some derail.) Don


Hey Don,
Can you check your insulated pins to see what is where. I cant seem to get it to work.


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## Don Trinko (Oct 23, 2012)

They go on the inside rails on the "Y" part of the swich .it is different on some of the other switches but my o27s has them on the inside rails. No insulated pins going into the other side. Don
My swiches are 5121 and 5122.


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## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

Don Trinko said:


> They go on the inside rails on the "Y" part of the swich .it is different on some of the other switches but my o27s has them on the inside rails. No insulated pins going into the other side. Don
> My swiches are 5121 and 5122.


I tried that but got nothing. As you can see in the photo with the one switch turned the other way it creates 2 insulated pins on one side. So I tried that and also with a metal pin there with no luck either way. My switches are the same as yours 5121 & 5122's.


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## Handyandy (Feb 14, 2012)

Why the insulating pins anyway? Multy trains?


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## Don Trinko (Oct 23, 2012)

Mine are all going the same direction, Maybee that makesit different. Don


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## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

Handyandy said:


> Why the insulating pins anyway? Multy trains?


Yes I have a test layout I'm learning on with a few strange turns to see what happens. I'm new to all this so I'm in the middle of like 20 learning projects right now lol Its all good though because everyone on here has helped me out a lot. Hats off to all.


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## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

Don Trinko said:


> Mine are all going the same direction, Maybee that makesit different. Don


I agree. I'm sure thats my problem (having the one backwards) and not sure if it will work out in then end.


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

If I recall, the only reason for the insulating pins is for the anti-derailing function. I'd try them with all steel pins and see what you get. The problem appears to be a section with isolated outer rails on the same track section meaning no ground path. Another choice is make sure the fiber pins are on the rails closest to each other. 

Carl


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## Don Trinko (Oct 23, 2012)

Just checked, I have a short track between the main line and the sidings with a power feed on it. One of my switches is backward. Don


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## Don Trinko (Oct 23, 2012)

This is a photo of mine. Don


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

If you replace the insulating pins with steel pins, you are likely going to burn out the switch motor.

When you say "It doesn't work" can you be more specific. What doesn't work? You don't have a connection between the outside rails between the two switches that have the insulating pins facing each other. You have insulating pins in both outside rails. Add a Lockon on both sides of the place where you have the insulating pins facing each other and see if that solves your problem.


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## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

servoguy said:


> If you replace the insulating pins with steel pins, you are likely going to burn out the switch motor.
> 
> When you say "It doesn't work" can you be more specific. What doesn't work? You don't have a connection between the outside rails between the two switches that have the insulating pins facing each other. You have insulating pins in both outside rails. Add a Lockon on both sides of the place where you have the insulating pins facing each other and see if that solves your problem.


Problem is there is no place to ad a lock on to. All the switches are back to back (see photo). I'm loosing power to both switches the backwards one and the other one after that. I think your right if I had a small track that I could put a lockon to it might work. Not sure if I have room to do that but I'll check it out.
Thanks Mike


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

I see plenty of room for lockons in your picture. Put one to the far left and one to the far right. They don't have to be right up against the switches.


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## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

servoguy said:


> I see plenty of room for lockons in your picture. Put one to the far left and one to the far right. They don't have to be right up against the switches.


The far right is the main line and power feed is right there. the far left already has a lockon for a insulated block track section. heres a couple photos that might explain my situation better.

First layout:









Then what I wanted to do:










And what I ended up doing which is really to short to be usefull:


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

It would help if you would explain what is not working when you put the switches the way you want them.


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## Don Trinko (Oct 23, 2012)

You can cut the tubular track to any size you want (hacksaw works but use a gentle touch, chop saw works great) and then debur the cut end and open it up or pinch it down as needed to make a good fit for the pins. I use a small tapered punch to open them up and a pair of pliers to tighten them. Don


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## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

servoguy said:


> It would help if you would explain what is not working when you put the switches the way you want them.


I did mention which ones are dead in the post above but you must have missed it. Its the one in the middle and the one to the left in the photo of the 3 switches in a row. The switch on the right goes to the main line. I've attached the photo again with black arrows showing where the insulated pins are.
Thanks Mike


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

msak24cardss said:


> I did mention which ones are dead in the post above but you must have missed it. Its the one in the middle and the one to the left in the photo of the 3 switches in a row. The switch on the right goes to the main line. I've attached the photo again with black arrows showing where the insulated pins are.
> Thanks Mike


Just a stab in the dark here,

I never did three together, but looking at your picture you have the 2 switches wired up but the middle switch not wired. Why not?
I kind of think that in your picture of your arrow insulated pins on the middle switch, one should not be there?
Your defeating the wheel ground?
A short section would be better in between the switches too (as mentioned) you might have problems with derailments running through the three together.
But I guess you don't have room for that?


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

I have done exactly what you are trying to do with 022 switches (O-31) and it works just fine. I think you said that you have a lockon on the outer track to the right of the right hand switch. How do you get power to the track to the left of the left hand switch (left hand in the picture, not a LH switch)?

If you put a lockon on the straighttrack to the left of the right hand switch (RH in the picture) and put another lockon to the left of the LH switch in the picture, and connect the outer rails together with a wire, the switches should work. If they don't work with the outer rails connected together, you have a problem with one or more of the switches. These switches are notarious for getting poor connections internally. I posted a procedure for fixing them a few years ago.


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## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

big ed said:


> Just a stab in the dark here,
> 
> I never did three together, but looking at your picture you have the 2 switches wired up but the middle switch not wired. Why not?
> I kind of think that in your picture of your arrow insulated pins on the middle switch, one should not be there?
> ...


Yeah thats the problem if you ad a pc of track you have to do the same on the other side and I have no room there. I just took off the controller in the middle one because I broke down that 3 way and went to another set up. I also tried taking out one of the insulated pins in the middle but that didnt work and I think it would burn out my switch anyway. I think the only way I'm going to get this to work is to get some 1/4 size pcs and work them in somewhere so I can hook up some lockons to them. I can see the problem already. the power lockon for the main track is on the inside and with the backwards switch it gets no power due to that. Only way is to get a lockon in there somehow. But the more I think about this the more it looks like a bad idea. I'm thinking they will derail a lot if I do this. I just need to go with a 5' wide layout and then I'll have room spread it out more.

Thanks Mike


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## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

servoguy said:


> I have done exactly what you are trying to do with 022 switches (O-31) and it works just fine. I think you said that you have a lockon on the outer track to the right of the right hand switch. How do you get power to the track to the left of the left hand switch (left hand in the picture, not a LH switch)?
> 
> If you put a lockon on the straighttrack to the left of the right hand switch (RH in the picture) and put another lockon to the left of the LH switch in the picture, and connect the outer rails together with a wire, the switches should work. If they don't work with the outer rails connected together, you have a problem with one or more of the switches. These switches are notarious for getting poor connections internally. I posted a procedure for fixing them a few years ago.


The tracks on the left are all block sections with lockons connected to spdt toggle switches so they get power only when I'm switching locos. Being this is a test track I've come to the conclusion that I'll need a 5' wide board to make this happen. Then I'll have the room to ad a pc between the switches. I tested all the switches before trying them to make sure they work fine and they do.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I think that Ross switches will mate with tube track?
Someone correct me if I am wrong.

Why don't you look through their switches and buy one if it will work, I don't have time right now to research but I think they have transition pins. 
Look through their switches there are a bunch.

http://www.rossswitches.com/products/switchfiles.html

They will take less room to use and you will have a smoother operation. 
You might have to re-plan part of your track work.:smokin::thumbsup:


View attachment SW-4-3WAY.pdf


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

If you shut off the power to the track to the left of your switches, where do the switches get power from? You must have power between the center and outside rails of the track in the left of your picture or the switches won't work.


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## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

servoguy said:


> If you shut off the power to the track to the left of your switches, where do the switches get power from? You must have power between the center and outside rails of the track in the left of your picture or the switches won't work.


The switch on the far left is the last switch in line. The 2 lockons for blocks are after that switch so power is always on up to that one. By adding the other switch in between backwards it looses power do to the insulated pins on both sides. So I'll have to ad some small pcs of track and use the lockon on the opposite side. I think lol or when I set up my real layout I''l make the board 5' wide and have room to come up with a 4 block section. Thats the whole purpose of this experiment.

Thanks Mike








Like to ad a 4th blocked section:


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

msak24cardss said:


> I think lol or when I set up my real layout I''l make the board 5' wide and have room to come up with a 4 block section.


I didn't know this was just a make believe layout. 
Get some more wood and start on the real one already. 

TIP,
Go as big as you can afford to from the get go.


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## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

big ed said:


> I didn't know this was just a make believe layout.
> Get some more wood and start on the real one already.
> 
> TIP,
> Go as big as you can afford to from the get go.


Yeah Ed this is just a learning setup for now. I have to learn how these things work before I lay down the real base for my layout. I'm waiting for my son to move out in a couple weeks, so I can use his room 12X14 for my setup. Then I'll paint my base and get at it. Gives me time to work out the kinks. Thats why so many questions now. I think I'll have room in there to lay a 5X10 or 6X12 layout. Would like to have 4 blocked sections on the 027 line and have it connect to the super o outside loop with 2 blocked sections on there also. I've also contacted somebody that is going to give me some 027 to O guage to super O adapters to connect the tracks. That way I can run my trains on both loops and any blocks. I didnt know that was possible till I joined that yahoo group for super O track. Lots to learn and have to go back to work this coming Wed.


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## Don Trinko (Oct 23, 2012)

I would encourage you to use as few o27 turns as possible. It will limit the size of locos you can use. O27 style track is also available in o42 turns and some even larger.
Markx made some 027 type track in o34 turns. One of our members was kind enough to supply some for me. It is available used but you have to hunt a little. Don


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## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

Don Trinko said:


> I would encourage you to use as few o27 turns as possible. It will limit the size of locos you can use. O27 style track is also available in o42 turns and some even larger.
> Markx made some 027 type track in o34 turns. One of our members was kind enough to supply some for me. It is available used but you have to hunt a little. Don


Yeah I did see some of those 034 on Ebay. When I set up my layout I'll connect the 027 to the super O track so I can run on both. I'll just keep the larger loco's on the super O and the smaller one's on the 027. Problem is I already have like 8 027 switches and only one super O switch. Maybe I'll pick up a couple 042's and one more super O just to have some options. Still in the planning stages for the layout. Thinking I might even go with 3 tracks.

Thanks Mike


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

FWIW. I have 4 1122's in a row. At one point, there are insulated pins on both outside rails. 

My trains run fine through the section. 

All tracks in both sides of all the 1122's have constant power to the outside rails. 

The center rails are switched as needed for the various blocks.


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## msak24cardss (Jul 25, 2013)

Dave Sams said:


> FWIW. I have 4 1122's in a row. At one point, there are insulated pins on both outside rails.
> 
> My trains run fine through the section.
> 
> ...


Maybe its just the difference of usuing 1122's and 5121's & 5122's but mine short out any way I place the insulated pins. Anyway I decided to go another way being I'll have more room when setting up my final layout. 

Thanks Mike


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## Don Trinko (Oct 23, 2012)

Not all switches have the insulating pins in the same position. Don


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