# Recessed track



## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

Hi,
Here's another newbie question. Perhaps this is a hairbrained idea, but in planning the addition to my layout I'm going to have a trolley going down the center of town that will drop folks off at various homes, the depot, etc., etc.
I'll be using the new Bachmann #44547 reversing system that utilizes their special EZ track.
Here's my question......do you think it would look more realistic if the EZ track was recessed down into the 1" foamboard base so that the top of the track was a little lower than the street surface? This would put the entrance doors of the trolley car at, or close to street surface.
Does this sound like a sensible idea or has my Kool aid gone bad? 
Bob


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

raleets said:


> Hi,
> Here's another newbie question. Perhaps this is a hairbrained idea, but in planning the addition to my layout I'm going to have a trolley going down the center of town that will drop folks off at various homes, the depot, etc., etc.
> I'll be using the new Bachmann #44547 reversing system that utilizes their special EZ track.
> Here's my question......do you think it would look more realistic if the EZ track was recessed down into the 1" foamboard base so that the top of the track was a little lower than the street surface? This would put the entrance doors of the trolley car at, or close to street surface.
> ...



All the trolleys I have seen ride at street level.

See if this link works, 
Look at the pictures,

http://search.comcast.net/?cat=images&con=preview&form_submit=1&q=trolly+cars&top_SearchSubmit=

I think they would look odd sitting above or below street level?


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

I agree with Ed on this one. Every trolly I have seen is at street level while on the street. The couple of times I have seen a trolly or light rail go off the paved road it is balasted track just like regular train track.

Massey


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I think I'd make the tops of the rail at least level with the foam, not recessed.


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

Guys,
Thanks for your quick responses.
I agree with grjohn that the top of the track should be level with the foam.
In order to accomplish that I'll need to recess the track 7/16" into the foam, which is the exact measurement of Bachmann EZ track with their built in "ballast".
Any bright ideas on how to easily do this?
Bob


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'd consider a router, though I haven't actually tried them on foam. You can cut precise channels at any depth you desire with a router, just don't know what kind of bit I'd recommend for foam.


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

I have a router, lots of bits, and some scrap foam. Guess it's time to make a mess and see what happens :laugh:
Or, and maybe this sounds lazy, but how about if I cut the foam, the exact width of the track, all the way through. Then remove the piece, and then fill in the hole with "whatever" to raise the track to the desired height.
Just thinkin',
Bob


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## Gansett (Apr 8, 2011)

If you use a router you need a straight cutting plunge bit. 
http://www.toolstoday.com/p-5202-st...er-bits-12-shank-2-flute-high-production.aspx

A 1/4" shank is slightly less $.

You will create a "foam" storm of major proportions.hwell:


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

Jack,
Thanks for the tip on the correct bit. I'll give it a test some time this next week.
Bob


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

One would expect that raising the track to the correct height may be as complicated as simply cutting the channel to the correct depth in the first place.

I'm guessing you'll want to run at a slower speed than max for cutting foam, but that's just a guess, I've never tried to cut foam with my router. 

You will have a foam storm, so do this where you can clean it up!


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

I did a street trolley years ago. I cut a slot in the wood, Thankfully I use wood and not foam. Then I filled the in around the ties with plaster, ran a set of trucks back and forth to indent for the flanges, and Ta-Da, roadway in-bedded rails.
If I were dealing with a foam base I think I would cut a slot all the way to the base, then build back up to the right height with other thinner foam or other materials. Foam does not router very well at all, and if the bit gets hot it's all over. I have used a table saw to cut it and that works well. thank goodness for a huge dust collector!
Another thing to consider is that if you router a strait slot then your going to have to fill in around the tapered road bed! I have read articles about using card stock to fill in the centers and edges around the rails with much success.
Dang now I want a trolley again, or a steet car. HUMMMM!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I confess a concern to me was the bit getting hot. Of course, cutting foam, how hot can it get? 

I think before I decided on a course of action, I'd try several "trial" pieces to see which technique works best.


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Might want to take into consideration what you will be using for pavement along the street. That will raise the roadway level some so maybe do that first and then cut the slot for the track. The trackway would be paved the same way as the street between the rails and along the outsides of the rails.
Remember that cars and trucks will be using the same street so they can't be getting stuck on the tracks. Sounds like a good idea to me. Fun too. Pete


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

Guys,
All of your input is muchly appreciated! 
I will follow up with the results as I proceed with this project.
Many thanks,
Bob


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

One more issue is your car overhang, especially on curves. You don't want the edges of your cars catching on the pavement as you make turns.


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

reckers,
Good thought, but there will be no curves. This trolley will be running down the middle of Main Street in a straight line of about 6 feet, dropping off and picking up passengers along the way.
Bob


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## Gansett (Apr 8, 2011)

I don't think the foam will be much of a challenge to a carbide bit or even a hss one. I don't think heat buildup will be a concern. The "foam" storm will be another story.


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

I'd just lay in some .080 styrene strips between the rails and outside the rails leaving clearance for the flangeway. (basically build up the surrounding layer to rail height. Seems easier than trying to embed it and then fill in around the tracks to look like a road. You'd basically just glue it on top of the ties.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

It'll look more "real" if it's embedded.


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

No question.......my trolley track will be lowered into the foam so that the top of the track matches the level of the street.
I plan to take my time and make that sucker look like the real McCoy.
Bob


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## tankist (Jun 11, 2009)

router on foam should be ok, IMHO very good idea. nothing there to heat up the cutting bit, but i'd really advise to have someone there with you standing with Vac to collect the debris. i never used powertool on foam , but it is very dusty even by hand. i can imagine the ammount of this stuff flying every which way...


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Here's what trolly and train tracks look like in th city. This happens to be in Melbourne ,Australia but I remember the trolly tracks in Boston,Providence and NYC looked the same back when I was a kid. 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RddCo3pxbdI


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I've cut foam with my table saw and with the bandsaw. It cuts fine, but there is somewhat of a snowstorm.  I haven't tried routing it, but I can't imagine it would be a problem.

If you decide on the router, you MUST have a guide to cut a straight line, no freehand here.


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