# soldering wires to the track



## HOMatt (Feb 14, 2016)

How the heck do you guys do it? Do you have 3 arms??? 

I really don't want to use the screw posts to connect the wires to the track. They're ugly and unrealistic. Is there an "build at home" jig that one could use to accurately solder the wires? I need 3 hands to do it. What is the preferred method of attachment? The bottom of the track? the outside rail? the joiner?


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## RH1 (Jan 4, 2016)

I don't have three arms - haven't figured out (yet) how to grow an extra one.

I solder the wires to the outside of the rail. Here's how:

First step is that I "tin" the ends of the wires with a liberal amount of solder. Then I make sure the outside of the rail is clean, apply some flux to the rail.

Next step, use one hand/pliers to hold wire firmly against rail. Use other hand to heat/melt pre-tinned wire and solder to rail. The use of flux means the solder will actually "stick" before all the ties melt! The "pre-tinned" wire eliminates the need for my third arm to hold the solder.

If any solder/wire is protruding above the rail, I use my Dremel to clean it up. Once I paint/weather the rails (and thus paint the solder and wire), add ballast, it pretty much dissappears from sight.


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## TJSmith (Nov 16, 2015)

HOMatt said:


> How the heck do you guys do it? Do you have 3 arms???
> 
> I really don't want to use the screw posts to connect the wires to the track. They're ugly and unrealistic. Is there an "build at home" jig that one could use to accurately solder the wires? I need 3 hands to do it. What is the preferred method of attachment? The bottom of the track? the outside rail? the joiner?


I used the same method as described here. I usually put a bend in the exposed wire to create the correct angle. I use a small spring holder that came with my soldering set. The wire is soldered to the depression in side of the rails on my Ross track. 

The wire is soldered on the opposite side of the rail when viewing it from the front so that it is not easily seen. I only solder one outside rail keeping the other outside rail as an insulated one to use to activate accessories.


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## RR409 (Feb 15, 2016)

I solder the wires to the bottom of the rails (Peco code 80 flex-track in N-Scale). I cut away a few ties and save them for reinstallation later. Strip insulation on wires back about an inch and make a small bend, about 1/8 inch. Clean the bottom of the track with 320 or 400 sandpaper. Tin the bottom of the track and tin the bend in the wire and then carefully solder them together. You can use wet paper towels to keep the track from overheating and melting any additional ties. Drill holes in the base to match the wires and then feed them through the holes. After the track is secured then a carefully trim the old ties and glue them back in place. After the ballasting is done there are no wires showing. If you soldering skills are not that good get some extra track and practice a bit. The secret lies in tinning the track and the wires.


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## ajkochevar (Feb 3, 2016)

I solder wires to the bottoms of rail joiners when I can. Place the rail joiners on double sided tape on my workbench and solder away. Then add them to the layout. On the occation I do have to solder the rail itself I try and make the solder before it is on the layout.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I also use a soldering technique similar to RH1 and TJSmith.

I do two additional steps. After a dab of flux on the rail I carry
a drop of solder on the tip of the iron to tin it. Then let the
wire with the prepared tinned flap drop through a hole in the layout
where it hangs on the rail. (gravity is my 3rd hand) 
I again carry a tiny dab of solder on
the tip of the iron and with but a deft touch the joint is solid.

Some also like to use a heat sink of some sort to protect
the plastic ties. A couple wads of wet cotton is one, or
a sprung small clamp is another.

Don


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## thedoc (Oct 15, 2015)

I made a fixture to hold the track in place with a grove for a wet cloth to keep the plastic ties from melting. The clamps are DeStaCo #215-U that I found on EBay. I have taught shop trying to teach Jr HS students to solder and I have worked in machine shops so I am familiar with fixtures and soldering.


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## HOMatt (Feb 14, 2016)

thedoc said:


> I made a fixture to hold the track in place with a grove for a wet cloth to keep the plastic ties from melting. The clamps are DeStaCo #215-U that I found on EBay. I have taught shop trying to teach Jr HS students to solder and I have worked in machine shops so I am familiar with fixtures and soldering.


I think I have those types of clamps in a box my Dad gave me. He was into woodworking all his life. I never got to ask him what they were used for. 

All good info. I really appreciate it guys!!!
Matt


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I always have great admiration for craftsmanship.

That device is a fantastic example of it.

It even has a 'furniture' finish.

Beautiful.

Don


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I use my cross-locking tweezers as both a clamp and heat sink, but otherwise solder pretty much as RH1 indicated above.


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## thedoc (Oct 15, 2015)

DonR said:


> I always have great admiration for craftsmanship.
> 
> That device is a fantastic example of it.
> 
> ...


That's a coat of Linseed oil, I didn't want the wet cloth to soak into the wood any more than necessary. It's a carry over from my time working in a machine shop, I tend to make fixtures for everything, but I'm usually either making several of the same thing or doing the same thing many times, a fixture just makes repeat operations more consistent.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

Yes, use one of the self-closing sprung tweezers or use one of those small sprung paper clamps, the black ones with the two wire loop-type arms that fold back...? Do tin first, it's always a good bit of insurance, clean the surface to be bonded, clamp the tinned wire, and touch the HOT tip (not a still-warming tip) to that location for a brief second. That should be it. 

I always wait for a slow count of one-two-three-four before I remove the clamp, but remember why the clamp is there. It's not just to act as that third arm, it's to wick heat effectively away from the hot area to prevent melted plastics or burnt paint nearby. Things like spikehead details on your ties.


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## HOMatt (Feb 14, 2016)

Hey Doc, you sound like my Dad was!!! Boy do i miss him.


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## thedoc (Oct 15, 2015)

HOMatt said:


> Hey Doc, you sound like my Dad was!!! Boy do i miss him.


I have an idea what you mean, my father died in 2001, and he had a lathe and a milling machine. I got the lathe, but the mill was just too big to get from Somerset County to Cumberland County. I had worked in machine shops and was familiar with the standard procedures to do particular jobs, but my father seemed to delight in finding unconventional ways to do things. I think he just liked to think he was outsmarting a real machinist, but he was that way with just about everything. The one odd thing is that he was a mechanic, but he would not teach me anything about working on cars, I think he was afraid I would end up being a mechanic. My parents wanted me to go to college and get a "professional" job, but that didn't work out like they expected, I only lasted 7 years as a teacher.


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## bristolman2012 (Mar 4, 2012)

thedoc said:


> I made a fixture to hold the track in place with a grove for a wet cloth to keep the plastic ties from melting. The clamps are DeStaCo #215-U that I found on EBay. I have taught shop trying to teach Jr HS students to solder and I have worked in machine shops so I am familiar with fixtures and soldering.


wow , ingenuity at its best . I have those clamps so guess what I'm making myself .
mike


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

thedoc said:


> I made a fixture to hold the track in place with a grove for a wet cloth to keep the plastic ties from melting. The clamps are DeStaCo #215-U that I found on EBay. I have taught shop trying to teach Jr HS students to solder and I have worked in machine shops so I am familiar with fixtures and soldering.


Nice Jig!. I am through with my track work on Phase 1 of my layout. But Phase 2 (in the distant future) will have long curving runs, with few turnouts. I can see how I can solder two flex track sections together with your jig, but I will need more than two sections. Can I solder 3 or more sections together, then remove enough ties near the junctions to allow the whole track to flex the way that I want? Or is there an easier way to attach 3 or more sections before laying the on the layout?


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## thedoc (Oct 15, 2015)

MtRR75 said:


> Nice Jig!. I am through with my track work on Phase 1 of my layout. But Phase 2 (in the distant future) will have long curving runs, with few turnouts. I can see how I can solder two flex track sections together with your jig, but I will need more than two sections. Can I solder 3 or more sections together, then remove enough ties near the junctions to allow the whole track to flex the way that I want? Or is there an easier way to attach 3 or more sections before laying the on the layout?


I made the fixture for straight track but it could be used for curved track with some modification. When I was laying my curves, and when I lay the next ones, I would bring a section around the curve to where the next section connected. Then I would solder the next section on with the joint straight and relaxed, and continue to lay the track on the curve. This way I didn't have any trouble with the rail joiners pushing against the ties when I curved the track and the joints were not kinked when I curved the track. My widest curves take about 5 - 3' sections to make a 90 degree curve, including the easements and several inches of straight, so I had to solder as I laid the track.


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## HOMatt (Feb 14, 2016)

I have to remember to put a fan on when soldering next time!! I caught a buzz from it! Thankfully it is lead free solder.


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