# Taps 5X9' Layout



## TapRoot

*Taps 10X9' Layout*

Hey folks, This will be my second build ever and im going for the gold...we'll not really but stepping it up no doubt.

Ill be sure to post pic updates as I go and ideas good and bad so stay tunned! 

my issues so far are that Im using a ping pong table for my table so I wont be able to drill holes for wires after the fact...so this is going to require alot of pre planning other wise ill be digging literal ditches in foam later on....might make for a cool scenario scene but id rather not.


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## tjcruiser

Tap,

Nice to see the pics "at the beginning of creation". Thumbs-up on the "pre planning" motivation.

Just out of curiosity, is your intent to keep those two 4.5'x5' subpanels separate and modular? If so, I'd suggest through-bolting them together through their underside frames to keep them tight, yet still allow for eventual removal.

Keep us posted!

TJ


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## TapRoot

yup, I have them toe-nailed in for now, I might add a lag but I doubt it will be necessary unless one side gets pushed over past its tipping point.

its really frustrating knowing I wont have an easy second chance to get any wires fixed or moved once the track is down which gets me really wondering how on earth am I going to line everything up before the track is even laid....

smoke break ( :


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## TapRoot

we'll it appears I will be in the base stage for at least the next few weeks as I get the grades, and crazy amount of interchanging tracks with X crossings, 4 ways, turn table, lights and now a secondary table and ledge ill have to find away to get two tracks off the table for...Also decided I will have a below ground level clearance of around 6" for a possible river/ravine around the mountain area...

If any of you read my other thread in the layout ideas I had a slight change of heart. My scenery and landscape would be to hard to adapt to a war zone in such little space so I decided the next best idea (I totally understand if no one will get this..) a nazi-zombie apocalypse theme on the other side of mountain with a renegade nazi train..I will customize to have little zombie nazi's hanging off the side. 


here's a few more pics, the next ones will show where my mountain bridges and tunnels will be..
Im a lot of pieces short especially short straight ones 
and oddly enough I have copious amounts of turns and flex track
anyone wanna trade? haha


WOOT! I had no idea there were tracks to attach and detach cars automatically, I was greatly lucky to have a few of these in the bunch of re railers I was dusting off...Im pretty exited about that, each rail yard line will get one now. ( :


So please let me know what everyone thinks! any ideas? tips? I tried to use the anyrail 4 program but I have no idea what any of my tracks are (brand or size)..and computer's are not my thing

cheers
Tap


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## TapRoot

I just found this pic, I laughed pretty good at the resemblance...
but now I have a better idea to go about it:thumbsup:


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## TapRoot

ok so no more nazi-zombies...having a hard time trying to adapt the war zone with such little space and to give it what it would need to be desent. I figured a zombie town would be easy and still fun so we'll see...

anyways I decided to take apart the ping pong top and mount my own panels in its place

got the foam glued down (went for 3" instead of 6") 
and starting to get my layout down so I can chop up some cork for my mounds or "ballast"? is it

Went to the hobby shop today and found out 6 of my electric switch tracks are broken and they dont fix or sell rivets for it...so ill have to head to the hardware store tomorrow to find some rivets to put the switch back together 

Also found out a good turntable is gunna cost me $250+ wired. yikess...:thumbsdown:


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## modeltrainhead

nce i play call of duty too but my modo trains then i play with my trains a little more


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## dozer

Tap, 

Everything is looking awesome! That switch yard will keep it fun for sure. Just a heads up though, I have that exact same ping pong table, and the casters and aluminum straps wont hold up to much weight at all. They're very fragile.


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## tankist

thanks goodness for the nazzi zombies. this is where it just completely killed the entire CoD for me. Guys at Treyarch, well done flushing a perfectly good game series down the toilet. 

anywho back to trains 

pictures of lumber are awesome. will really remind you how it all began 
it seems to me that the underside is perfectly accessible. which is much beter then digging comminucation trenches in foam.

if you want to play with rail layout before gluing things down use sewing pins - nails are to short to hold the rail good. also think about hiding switch machines, IMHO looks MUCH better without.

and lets see more progress!


ADD



modeltrainhead said:


> nce i play call of duty too but my modo trains then i play with my trains a little more



can anyone translate this for me please :laugh: :laugh:


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## TapRoot

thanks guys, yeah the ping pong table tops are about twice the weight of each sub panel I have and nothing else heavy will be going on top...it can also take me (150LB) jumping over it so I'm not too worried, I was however considering making a support bench for the middle of the two panels to go underneath.

and yeah I also plan to cover all rail switches and controls or anything not to scale with fake shrubs and debre. 

That's funny you say that tank, me and my brother had bought a second TV and ps3 just for playing zombies. In fact I dont think I ever played the co op or story, just zombies (level 38 is our record on der reise) HAHA too funny.

we'll I bought more turnouts today but still need about 3 more, ill have to go back tomorrow.


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## imatt88

It all has to start somewhere


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## TapRoot

I took my first run at 3d landscape with the heat shrink stuff
started to dig my river valley for the waterfall off the mountain, tunnels are being framed..

I just need my cork and fake gravel to then start nailing these tracks down permanently, once I get there I can then space out my round house and turntable as well as main station and rail yard...should the rail yard's tracks be raised? or just on giant gravel lot??

please as much advise given is greatly appreciated, I am over my head already but still having fun so....

I like the lumber idea, not a fan of coal cars personally, and really bummed out since I picked up a few real like coal tops that turned out not to fit...it was from the clearance rack so I cant return it:thumbsdown:


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## tankist

"fake gravel" is called "ballast".
i have all the spur tracks lower then main lines - glued to foam directly (see pic below) . just like in prototype this way you eliminate possibility of cars rolling into the main by accident .

also consider using flextrack - opens up radiuses other then precurved sections which will alow for "parralel running lines. ends up cheaper, less joints to worry about and it is really easier to work with then it might seem. you just need tool to cut them (i use dremel) and low power soldering gun/pen to join together (all my track is soldered aside of few insulator joiners).













PS
and i wouldn't glue that double crossover you have. it might look neat but consider whether you really need a double or if a pair of single ones one after eash other will do (and provide you with posibbility to runaround)


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## TapRoot

thanks tank, yeah I have been using the flex tracks and rail snipper for all my custom lil pieces and stright sections, never bothered with the subtle turns because its too much work cutting bending and linning up for a basic turn, although I can see how much cleaner it does look. hmmmm

yeah I removed the double cross and made two turnouts one north and south, doesnt look as neat but deff is alot smoother track and less hassle to instal....those things are a royal pain!

We'll I wanna go DCC and my shop is so far, anyone have a ball park price on the NCE powercab plus everything I would need? or a better brand for a better value? lol
am I going to need axtra power for a track this size?
and how much does each locomotive computer cost? (MSRP) and are they generic so any loco could instal one?


thanks guys!
Tap


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## tankist

> never bothered with the subtle turns because its too much work cutting bending and linning up for a basic turn


lols, compared to other aspects of modeling this is really nothing.  its all just a matter of technique and just a ted of practice.

yep. as you found out, simpler track elements are just more reliable - less crossings the wheels make is less chance for things to derail. i played with a double and had nothing but troube. althoguh it was an atlas double and since then i completely moved away from atlas turnout products.

as for DCC question please read on our previous discussions in DCC forum. Bunch of info accumulated there, and looking stuff up is a good habbit to have. the topic can hardly be summarized. value of DCC systems is somewhat comparable, choice of which one you like will be based on features you want and shortcomings you willing to compromise on. at the moment it is mixed bag and i cannot name IDEAL system (went with NCE but it is missing several things i'd like). topic of decoders is easier - cant go wrong with digitrax or NCE, but do read up on functionality of various models


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## TapRoot

pic is without the 4 way cross..

yeah I did a little research last night

NCE PowerCab or MRC Prodigy and DigiTrax.

the NCE powercab said it did it all and up to 3 trains, and was $180 + a few $30-$50 add ons...other computer's.. sorry not sure what there called at the moment.

the MRC was $650 complete and didnt get to digi trax in comparrison

ill go check out the DCC threads now, still dont really understand it
but one train isnt what im into and for $650 I should really understand what im doing, hah.


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## tankist

this looks better already. at least to me. i would also consider swaping crossover sides (if your alyout alows it) to avoid S curves . as for DCC system powercab can be had new for ~155, same for digitrax zephyr and bit less MRC for prodigy express. you really need to compare apples to apples, 650 is probably for advanced system with wireles capability


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## TapRoot

oh wow, ok well disregard my Ebay question in the DCC forum...lol good to know thanks bro

I have done some research but starting to get a little frustrated....I think i need to take a break from the layout, its consuming my thought process haha

I want easy controls that are reliable and will have the ability to add all the bells lights and whistles as well as up to 6 locos


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## TapRoot

we'll I just decided to add another 4.5X8' section to the side to make a total 9.5X9'....the only problem is now I have to Rearrange the entire layout and wont have very good access to the back half of the table...I will have access but only by crawling under to a 1' opening so it might get tricky...

the good news is my rail yard has doubled in size and I gained almost double the long stretches for scenic routes and long freight trains (OOhhh Yeahh 20+ car time)

stay tuned, I should have the table built by tomorrow and Styrofoam glued down


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## TapRoot

quick update
I have the second table built and lagged into the other one...just getting the last piece of Styrofoam glued on

new dimensions are 10X9 - a little gap at one end

only the rail yard is nailed in place, all the other edge pieces are just loosely placed still
still trying to figure out where the turn table and round house will be and then ill cut my access panel in the middle

any tips or ideas on this one would greatly appreciated!

cheers
Tap


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## tankist

as you probably already found out, this kind of qarrangement calls for hatch in the center. otherwise it is unreachable. also, it seems you using layers of white bead foam. i would not use this material, and recomment all extrusion foam (either pink or blue)


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## TapRoot

why? the white stuff is much easier to work with, lighter, cheaper and comes in bigger pieces so less glue and work that's why I picked it....as you can see I use both but prefer the white

yup, waiting to cut my access panel to make sure I have my layout perfect...
I think ill be re arranging this one again...I really want a big rail yard but with middle mountains to have a scenic lumber yard/military base on the other side totally out of view from the freight yard...


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## dozer

TapRoot said:


> why? the white stuff is much easier to work with, lighter, cheaper and comes in bigger pieces so less glue and work that's why I picked it....as you can see I use both but prefer the white
> 
> yup, waiting to cut my access panel to make sure I have my layout perfect...
> I think ill be re arranging this one again...I really want a big rail yard but with middle mountains to have a scenic lumber yard/military base on the other side totally out of view from the freight yard...


 I think you may be thinking of different stuff than what tankist is refering too. The pink and blue type foam comes in 4'x8' sheets and range from 1/2" thick to 2" thick. MUCH MUCH easier to work with than the white beaded foam stuff.


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## tjcruiser

Tap,

A suggestion on your new table, if I may ... you really should consider reinforcing the juncture between the 2"x4" and the table frame itself. As it is now, any minor kick to the bottom of the leg is going to knock the leg out of column, and risk tipping the table. I'd suggest some diagonal braces or triangular gussets in each direction at the top corners.

Regards,

TJ


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## TapRoot

yeah the blue stuff at rona when I went were are all 2X8 X1.5" for the same price as one of those 1.5" 4X8 sheets of white stuff and there was none in any bigger size just thicker for more $.....and way too late now anyways

yeah the legs are actually braced inside the table and it is framed at the bottom...its not going anywhere

thanks guys!
Tap


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## TapRoot

new layout idea....again only the rail yard is connected, not even nailed this time...bigger yard...less room to work out a the mountain and lumber yard


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## sstlaure

Looks cool. I tell you what though - I've got a duckunder (access hatch in the middle) of my layout and I wish I didn't have to duck under it every time I run the layout.

U-shaped with a big lift bridge would have been more convenient on a day to day basis.


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## sstlaure

Any reason your yard tracks don't run parallel? You'd pack more yard into a smaller space and probably could even get an extra track in there as well.


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## TapRoot

yeah if I did that then I would loose half my theme unfortunately, and the access panel will only be for maintenance and derailed cars in the yard, control and switch board will be off to the side

and yeah the yard is as tight as I can fit it without reducing track length...each turnout reduces a car I could put on a straight while having other cars go past and if they were only parallel with no turns....between turnouts it would be half the distance...I played around with how close I could put each track and found with my long automobile carrier and passenger cars I need a min 2" on turns. The two longest runs of track in the yard will have grain/freight/ and passenger station all crammed in there, once I get the buildings fit ill flex track around them for a perfect fit


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## TapRoot

yeah it does look kinda off....ill have to get out some nails and flex track and force some uniformity....here's what it looks like now full yard...I don't like it.

tomorrow ill try out with two less turnouts on the smaller tracks and just really extended out the other ones to get an extra couple cars on them and get those corners nice and parallel 

cheers
Tap


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## TapRoot

I just took a peak at your yard SST, I like the way you use your turnouts, much more real estate effective...I'll have to take note and play around some more...
cheers!
Tap


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## sstlaure

TapRoot said:


> I just took a peak at your yard SST, I like the way you use your turnouts, much more real-state effective...I'll have to take note and play around some more...
> cheers!
> Tap


Use the same size turnout throughout the yard, then set the angle of the yard ladder to match the turnout. (You run down the straight side of the turnout to go through the ladder - you use the turnout to exit the ladder and enter the actual yard track.) I used mostly #4 turnouts in the yard.

Those (2) longest yard tracks on my layout will accommodate 12 car trains.

Also make sure you leave enough room for a large radius on the farthest outside yard track as the track radius will decrease with each track running inside. If you want (4) tracks @ 2.5" on center, to maintain a minimum 18" radius (I have min 22" on mine), you'll need 18", 20.5", 23" and 25.5" radii for the (4) tracks.


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## Big Ed

TapRoot said:


> I just took a peak at your yard SST, I like the way you use your turnouts, much more real-state effective...I'll have to take note and play around some more...
> cheers!
> Tap


Where did you see his pictures? I searched and couldn't find any?

Hey Tap, why didn't you just build a base the size you needed instead of piecing it to the ping pong table?

You could have added caster wheels to make it easier to move it around your room too.


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## TapRoot

originally I was only going to use the ping pong table (basically just to do something with it) and it was already mounted when I wanted to add a second table...It doesn't make any sense to rip it apart just to rebuild it cosmetically. It is already to big to move around anyways so that isn't really a concern. 

I have plans for a big boy in the future and as cool as they look as soon as they hit a tight turn it just looks silly. so I'm really trying to keep all my turns min 24"...

cheers guys!


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## TapRoot

his picture's are in his layout thread

titled 11X13 freelance I believe

I like how clean it is for sure, I just wanted more then 4 rails for the yard...tons more fiddling to do today


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## sstlaure

big ed said:


> Where did you see his pictures? I searched and couldn't find any?


Here's my build thread....

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=4737&page=2


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## TapRoot

Ok here's the new yard, not connected just nailed in...I don't want to cut any flex track until I'm sure. It's not perfect but considering the main line and mountain this seems to be the best I can do in the area I have while keeping the individual yard lines as long as possible

anyways what do y'all think now??


I can only get 12-10-10-10-10 cars on each line I was hoping for 14 (thats my magic number for two loco's at the moment)
so I might reduce the lines to 4 and see if I cant squeeze a few more cars


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## sstlaure

Looks good.


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## TapRoot

alright, so I totally agree with you tank. After quite a bit of sculpting I can see why the harder foam is better. (so long as I find in store 4X8 sheets)  haha

white chunks stuck to EVERYTHING!


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## TapRoot

yard is complete, nailed and connected...can anyone give me a reason why I should add cork to the yard rather digging slight ditches in between railes and dumping ballast all over for gravel effect and then using cork on the straights everywhere else


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## tankist

without cork it will be noisy. which is ok for yard as operation there will not be fast, but i would use roadbed for through lines (will also give prototypical elevation diference).

as you dig your ditches , pink and blue stuff will be everywhere as well . so small hend held vac is highly advised. with that i do not see how one can sculpt white bead foam without hot knife (and get ok results).


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## TapRoot

I'm a knife nut, Japanese steel (vg) with a fresh edge will shave hairs off my arm in one pass...Styrofoam is easy, but what I meant by everywhere is its static charge, its stuck to the roof and everything in between. The blue stuff isnt at all. 

sweet well thanks fo ryour opinions guys! helped me alot

Cheers
Tap


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## sstlaure

You don't have the fuzzy mess if you use one of these....only $13

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?category=&q=hot+knife


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## dozer

sstlaure said:


> You don't have the fuzzy mess if you use one of these....only $13
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?category=&q=hot+knife


 Oh man, nice find! I'm on my way to Harbor Freight right now to grab one!


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## tankist

nice find, ye. but never seen one in our HF ...


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## TapRoot

nothing really new, just my access panel...ill be making a removable 3 story warehouse for its place.

has anyone ever cut there own cork bed from sheets? what did you use for a rig to make the angle cut?


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## tjcruiser

Tap,

Why not used the precut cork roadbed strips? They come 36" long (I think), and split down the centerline such that each half bends and contours easily to your track curves.

I used the precut stuff (strips) ... both for individual tracks, as well as in way of turnouts. For the turnouts, I had to scarf in (miter a transition joint) two sections to mate seamlessly ... the main section had the standard (precut) bevel ... on the meeting sections, I reverse-cut a bevel (i.e., upside down bevel) using a straight edge and a very sharp single-edge razor blade. I eyeballed the bevel angle, but got it quite close with just minor practice.

Cheers,

TJ


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## TapRoot

I have roughly 100+ feet to do at $2 for 3' that's $66 bucks but a sheet of cork board is $15 for 4X8 roll. If it were easy to do with recommendation I was going to give it a shot


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## sstlaure

Check this place - (25) 3' pieces for $35 ($1.40 each)

http://www.trainworldonline.com/cat...id=26140&back_url=/search.php?q=cork&x=42&y=3

The roll cork I've bought hasn't been as flexible as the cork roadbed I've worked with and tended to crack/warp. The roadbed stuff laid down REAL nice.

If want a wide area covered solid, just alternate them beveled side down, beveled side up, or don't split them, just glue in place.


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## Reckers

I just ordered the hot knife, too! Unfortunately, I'll have a layout to cut apart in a few months. *L*


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## TapRoot

Hey thanks a ton SST!

even better news thats for O scale, HO scale is only 27 bucks for the box

cheers!


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## sstlaure

There you go....When I started my layout I bought 300 ft of Flextrack and 225 ft (3 boxes) of cork roadbed so I researched where I could buy it in bulk. Saved me a ton of money.

If it's for a yard and it's the same thickness as HO - I'd go with the O scale stuff. You'll cover a wider area with the same # of strips.

When I did my yard I laid out individual roadbeds for each track. I'm now regretting that as I research more that yard tracks typically don't have a ditch between them but are rather all at the same elevation with maybe some drainage along the outer edges of the yard.


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## Southern

Same here I made a ditch on each side of the tracks in the yard. Not quite right but I like it. I have a diesel fuel spiel in one of them.


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## TapRoot

rail yard and loop is finished and fully operational, I have three auto switches done but two to fix and one to install a piston on. Also started mounting the magnets for the auto couplers...damn those things can be tricky to install when you're using 5 different brands of cars and loco's. I would be lost without that neat little NMRA auto height coupler mounting thing...hah.:thumbsup:

I did the math on buying bulk road bed vs store and after shipping I don't save anything, so I picked some up and got started on my 1st main line, also started to play with the heat mold mat and some tree's and shrubs. Does anyone know a good place to buy HO or even o scale tree's in bulk for a decent price?

cheers guys!
Tap


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## TapRoot

this wouldnt post for some reason before


lol ok it still wont...trying to post a second pic


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## TapRoot

update : I wont be using a turntable or round house nor will I have any military theme.

To keep it realistic and simple I will have a larger lumber yard/pulp mill in the middle with a locomotive repair station and fueling station.
I'm going to turn my army track/tunnel into coal mine and have it loop back into the yard rather a turnout in a tunnel to the second mainline as originally planned.

The last few days I have been running variations of cars and lengths at variables of speed through the yard to make sure everything is as solid as possible and I think I am finally done. Time to get some more cork on lay my foundations for the main lines and just start mounting track

cheers
-Tap


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## sstlaure

Lookin good.


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## TapRoot

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPl8CCbcrno

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NropWpDDRek


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## MacDaddy55

*Sweet Video*

Hey Tap, Great progress on the layout and the video is good. That lil Goat was haulin hinder....Keep up the good work and take more video!:thumbsup:


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## TapRoot

cheers mac, and here ya go!


I pooched my second 4 dollar controller today, I only have one speed left.....Full.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IF2ZDoOkp_g

nighttime + biggest train ive pulled yet
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWIZQz3vkHw

haha so I can only run 28+ car diesels or maglev speed steams....I dont want to buy anything nice until my shop to stocks the new zephyr so who knows how long ill have to wait. Gives me time to wire all the turnouts, switch board and working LED signals in parr with my switchboard yippie! time to pull out the soldering pen


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## TapRoot

sometimes if im lucky, ill get a nice real squeak on the turns that lasts a few cars...I LOVE IT! haha

I'm not sure how this stays on the tracks so well at this speed but my controller is done and this is as slow as it goes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ud93kADNsjM


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## TapRoot

we'll being a student with bills and too many hobbies to keep up with this has been the one to take the hit, Ive just done a little hill and mountain work.

any tips of making custom portals? I was thinking dry wall puddy and a mold of some sort and free hand the cement header...

I used some of that shrink mat stuff for a hill that will fade into a cliff/mountain/tunnel..
its easy to use but im sure ill have a heck of a time blending loose ballast into it and if im to just add ballast on top of it to have it fade into it, what was the point in the first place I figure.


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## TapRoot

for the record it doesnt matter the heat mat is wrinkled and looks like crap around the base...trees, shrubs, rocks, debri will be layed on top, and other wrinkles ill have to come back with the heat gun to pop them out no biggie

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=5473&d=1290205773


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## TapRoot

I need some ideas about my main theme...I have room in the middle for an industrial setting but choosing which one is hard.

Ive narrowed it down to lumber, ore/grain, or steel. I was leaning towards lumber but I don't know. each would require me to buy kits, and freight so I dont think one would be cheaper than the other
Anyone have any pros and cons of each theme?

I decided against coal almost immediately because I don't want use fake stuff and I don't want to clean up the real/fake stuff every time I derail


And tank you were totally right about the white Styrofoam base, it is totally inconsistent (not level) this is my learning curve I suppose for my next house to go big. 

Also finally got to taking apart all my non working loco's, they were all just one lead needing to be soldered so that was a easy.:thumbsup:

cheers
Taproot


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## justinjhnsn3

TapRoot said:


> I need some ideas about my main theme...I have room in the middle for an industrial setting but choosing which one is hard.
> 
> Ive narrowed it down to lumber, ore/grain, or steel. I was leaning towards lumber but I don't know. each would require me to buy kits, and freight so I dont think one would be cheaper than the other
> Anyone have any pros and cons of each theme?
> 
> I decided against coal almost immediately because I don't want use fake stuff and I don't want to clean up the real/fake stuff every time I derail
> 
> 
> And tank you were totally right about the white Styrofoam base, it is totally inconsistent (not level) this is my learning curve I suppose for my next house to go big.
> 
> Also finally got to taking apart all my non working loco's, they were all just one lead needing to be soldered so that was a easy.:thumbsup:
> 
> cheers
> Taproot


I vote for lumber. I think it will give you the most options for the space. With a saw mill you can expand to in the future (logging,lumber,woodchip) all in the same space. You also would not have to buy all the cars at one time. Just say you are expanding the business over time.

also in the olden days they carried woodchips in boxcars.


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## tjcruiser

No preference/vote on my end, but ...

If you like the look of "real" coal, but don't want the cleanup mess if a car spills over, you can glue a gondola or hopper load together with a white glue / water mix to lock it in place. A bit of prep work, but should avoid the mess.

TJ


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## Big Ed

sstlaure said:


> Here's my build thread....
> 
> http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=4737&page=2



Very nice!:thumbsup:
First time I looked at the whole thread since I asked where are the pictures.

You started small?

Even though you went bigger ,I still see room to expand.:laugh:


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## sstlaure

big ed said:


> Very nice!:thumbsup:
> First time I looked at the whole thread since I asked where are the pictures.
> 
> You started small?
> 
> Even though you went bigger ,I still see room to expand.:laugh:


I'm currently in the process of buying a new house and will be building a permanent room in the basement....Looks like I'll have about 14x25 ft to work with.

I don't do anything small.


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## TapRoot

heres an update video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJs2liswMsg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NTZCPhSXYCU


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## Smokestack Lightning

TapRoot said:


> heres an update video
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJs2liswMsg
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NTZCPhSXYCU


A soldering tip. Sand the edges where they meet. Easy on the flux. Make your your gun is super hot. Your layout is going to be awesome:thumbsup:


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## TapRoot

ahh sanding! I just cleaned it with a tooth brush and alcohol and slapped it on....I didnt use any flux though, just the solder with the 'rosin' core

I also didnt wait very long for it to heat up, well I have a couple dozen more tries to get it right, haha thanks for the tips man

any advice is appreciated


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## gc53dfgc

TapRoot said:


> sometimes if im lucky, ill get a nice real squeak on the turns that lasts a few cars...I LOVE IT! haha
> 
> I'm not sure how this stays on the tracks so well at this speed but my controller is done and this is as slow as it goes.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ud93kADNsjM


I, sir thinks you does need a new controller to controll them there trains:laugh:


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## sstlaure

I used flux, it makes a HUGE difference in making the soldering flow into the joint without applying excessive heat..


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## Smokestack Lightning

The solder will go where the flux is. Again. Not too much flux or the solder will run.


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## TapRoot

I thought flux was a no-no for rail joining as its corrosive and hard to remove...I'll try it for sure though, it couldn't hurt..:laugh:


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## TapRoot

haha, I was sold some crap solder is what happened....Some sales guy convinced me the elctrical solder he had was all I would need and I didnt need flux with it and blah blah blah - went to the new hobby shop in town and picked up the real electrical soder with silver and wow......its easy as pie


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## TapRoot

UPDATE : my camera was pooched so its been awhile

kinda getting back on track in the layout and heres a few pics for ya'll


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## sstlaure

Cool room and layout.

I'd be tempted to run a branch line off the table and run a line through one layer of those shelves in the background.


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## TapRoot

Thanks for the compliment! - unfortunately I am just a broke student living in his parents basement. My dad and I built all this about 4 years ago (the custom shelves and moulding, floors...ect..) and it was kinda his last carpentry extravaganza so Im not sure he wants me to muck anything up as ill be outta here in 6 months....(not even close to enough time to finish this layout) as is and he was hesitant on letting me set up as big as I am now.

But the idea did cross my mind many of times with regret! If I had planned to run track on the shelf table originally I would have just made that my yard and had used the space on the main table more wisely


cheers
-Benny


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## tjcruiser

Benny,

Nice progress on the layout. Great bookshelf project with your Dad, too!

The top of that bookshelf (above the crown molding) would offer a nice display area / staging area for extra locos, rolling stock, etc. Looks like you have some puck lights up there, too.

Cheers,

TJ


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## TapRoot

Yeah right! now all I need to do is get my dad into trains and it'l be business....haha but good thinkin!

I am finally done the main track work - just a few wacked out spots to straighten out but I can roll to all three tracks and back now:thumbsup::thumbsup:

going to get some more damage-discount styrofoam for the mountains next chance I can but until then ill be hand painting the rails --:thumbsdown:


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## TapRoot

heres a few more


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## TapRoot

man I went to buy rail rust to mimic real rails - Buddy said it dries dark but clearly not that dark, I went looking at some rails today and found even the nastiest lookin ones were more black/grey than any rust....not sure what I was thinking but now im not digging my rusty rails look

whats your all opinions??

the first pic in my last post is 10X brighter than in real life but there's a few older pics that show it better

I was hand painting to keep the rails rust and ties black but from my outing I found the rails and ties had the same grey dirty tinge so im thinking using an air brush with this grayish tone would be a better paint for rails and ties rather than just rust on rails and leaving ties black.....any opinions? looking for realism.


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## NIMT

Flat black and some gray added works great.
See the difference between the spur track and the main, and that's without the ballast.
Rusty rails only seams to work on old era rail roads.


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## TapRoot

thank you sir! just what I needed to hear and see.....I am just glad I bought the paint on boxing day - only cost $3 for 3 jars....but now I need to figure out the best way to paint over what I already did and the rest - plus the old spots that already have ballast layed...Damn I really need an air brush! haha way to much track to hand paint

cheers


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## tjcruiser

Tap,

Anton did some very nice weathering of his rails. Start with Post #29 in his thread, here:

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=3035

Cheers,

TJ


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## TapRoot

we'll im 50% done carving one of my mountains, and finally done all my mainlines and turnouts....I have (I think) officially decided my theme will just be repair shops. so ill have two areas left untouched for a loco barn and fuel depot, and another area for freight repair...I may throw a cattle ramp in there just because I already have one and way to many stock cars


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## HOMODELTRAINZ2009

I cant wait to see more progress and the finished layout!!!


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## TapRoot

Thanks TJ for directing me, Tank sure has some skills to share....Got lots to consider, I just found a guy on youtube that used a dirty grey spray paint and that was it, and it looks great! pretty simple so ill take a shot at that and see if I like it..I dont have an air brush and hand painting has lost in fun

and thanks Homodeltrainz2009, me too! little by little, but I got some income now so ill get a motivational boost pretty quick here to get the mountains done im sure


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## TapRoot

ok time for an update.

my Main theme once and for all will be a repair yard....ill leave some room for something else later whether it be lumber/oil/ore....I get most enjoyment out of this running and switching cars in the yard....I got most of the yard lines straight and down to 18" or greater...I am going to finish my main mountain 100% before starting on the other one or any ballast just to minimize vacuuming styrofoam on finished areas...I think I will try cardboard and spray insulation for my next mountain as it should be 200X cheaper


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## tjcruiser

Tap,

The mountain contours look great. And I do mean "mountain" ... that thing is tall! I like it. Just remember to change the filter on the vacuum after sucking up all of the foam shavings!

It's fun to see your layout's access hatch, too. Reminds me of "LOST" ... "What's in the hatch?!?"

Thanks for the updates,

TJ


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## TapRoot

hahaha that made me laugh out loud a few times! yes it got kinda outta hand and I went a little to michelangelo on it....really fun though, just way to expensive...

The plan is to make the hatch look like a freight repair depot with just one fake entrance and two fake exists....ill also build a shorter building over the two tracks that run next to it and than a loco barn up against the mountain so it looks as if the tracks run through the repair shop out and then into the barn...I think ill take a try at printing pictures of the sides of a warehouse to glue onto it in hopes it looks more real


let me know what yall think! I should be painting the mountain this weekend so ill get pics of that asap


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## tjcruiser

I think the hatch can be disguised with structure / depot quite readily, as you plan. Quite entincing, actually ... it gives you the need to build a large depot building / service shop / etc. That'll be quite a unique structure (brick, weathered roof, etc.), and perhaps something of size that you wouldn't find on most layout. I like it ... should be cool!

TJ


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## TapRoot

here a few shots for some better imagination...


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## TapRoot

first coat of latex is down....just gotta run some acrylic washes then highlight....and then add some dirt/foliage and trees...

not sure if I like my first go at the custom portal but im on the right track at least...ill play around with colors on it and most likely make a new one right from the beginning (with arches this time)

enjoy!


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## novice

Wow nice job - lots of track.

I really like those lone trees on the mtn, there's something about them that's eclectic.


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## concretepumper

Lookin' Good! I like your Mountain. I gotta ask. Do you stand up through the little square hole and work?


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## TapRoot

trees were just a quick place for fun, not there permanent home yet...
and thank you! ill keep that in mind when I go to add them

thanks for the compliment CP and yes I deff need that little hatch for maintenance and construction work on the layout....just wait! im building a box over it and the two tracks beside it to look like a Engine service center with working doors and lights....the roof will be loose to remove when I need to do something but until then its just my work hole...

yeah I know it looks kinda whacked with all the track bunched in there but some lights, buildings, trees and scenery should break the look up a bit


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## concretepumper

[QUOTE

thanks for the compliment CP and yes I deff need that little hatch for maintenance and construction work on the layout....just wait! im building a box over it and the two tracks beside it to look like a Engine service center with working doors and lights....the roof will be loose to remove when I need to do something but until then its just my work hole...

yeah I know it looks kinda whacked with all the track bunched in there but some lights, buildings, trees and scenery should break the look up a bit[/QUOTE]

No i wasn't thinking wack. :laugh: I was just thinking funny :laugh::laugh: standing there and have the wife call you or need something over there and can't reach. Lol. I find when I am underneath wiring I forget stuff I need up top. But seriously that is a Kick BUTT idea! Thanks I might have to steal that someday! Keep us posted! Rick


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## TapRoot

what would you all rather see

first line or second where those two lines end before the mountain....
one is double door and the other single but much more detail..

at this point I like them both equally

http://www.internettrains.com/merch...t_Code=PIK-0008&Category_Code=HSCSTRKITPIKSTD


http://www.internettrains.com/merch...t_Code=933-2902&Category_Code=HSCSTRKITWALCRR


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## NIMT

I personally like the way the pikestuff building looks, they are not quite as detailed but they are modern and you can bash the heck out of them if you want too!


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## sstlaure

I like both of those buildings. The latest issue of Model RR kitbashed 2 of those Walthers shop buildings into a really cool applicance factory. that sits at an angle along a backdrop.


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## TapRoot

testing track paints out and I think I finally found what I like....the flash definitely alter what it looks like to the eye under the lights I have...its a little more dirty looking and far less shiny...the paint im using is supposed to be for making an instant chalk board? lol


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## tankist

seems to shiny. why don't you take the picture with flash off (you will need to steady your camera on something though)


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## NIMT

Now that looks alot better than the rusty rails!


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## TapRoot

this is what the rails around the cp line I live by look like so its what my goal is.
Here's a few without flash aswell.

cheers!


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## gunrunnerjohn

Now you need a little grass growing between the rails.


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## Xnats

I really like it, it will look perfect after the ballast is down. It looks way better then the red/rust stuff from earlier photos.


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## TapRoot

haha I couldn't help myself I just had to throw a little scenery down 

enjoy!









Ill be throwing up a screen to simulate a rock catcher for falling boulders and have to get some mudding done on that wall....unfortunately its only half an inch thick at best so I cant sculpt anymore out of it and I know it looks wack up close, haha


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## TapRoot

I had a little ballast left over so I could see a rough idea of what the tracks would look like surrounded by ballast
















here's a couple weathered open ballast cars I just did...I see a lot of all black really dirty rusty ones around here so I thought id make a few


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## concretepumper

Lookin' Good Tap! One of these days you have to get a pic of you posted up in the middle access hole!


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## TapRoot

haha soon man soon....but for now here is my spotty rail yard ballasting, totally baught the wrong color of ballast the first time but w/e.....ill do something to blend it better later.....and here is my first coat of acrylic washes on the mountain, a few more shade then the white highlites and off to the foliage it goes....haha


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## bobholets

*Ballast*

What did you use to keep the ballast down what adhesive method?


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## Canadian Car Knocker

Very nice ballast work.


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## TapRoot

I just use armor coat white glue - reg old white glue watered down roughly 50/50....roughly is key word..

I use water to soak the ballast so the glue will soak right in and if any glue is building up I mist a little 50/50 water-alcohol mixture and it washes it right away


thanks for the compliment on the ballast...its gunna cost me a fortune to do the yard, I guess ill have to do some bottle runs to justify it


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## TapRoot

and a little more pics for yall


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## TapRoot

wow that mountain sure looks allot better in person, haha wow......

ummmmm, not sure how to go about hiding those lines anymore, in person its hard to see them but clearly not on here and that kinda matters....


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## NIMT

Easy fix is to use Drywall mud as a skim coat, I mix mine with some white glue. Then with a gloved hand and a paint brush just put a thin coat on it that will get rid of the lines and leave the rock character.


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## Big Ed

NIMT said:


> Easy fix is to use Drywall mud as a skim coat, I mix mine with some white glue. Then with a gloved hand and a paint brush just put a thin coat on it that will get rid of the lines and leave the rock character.



I agree, but I would leave pieces of the lines here and there and the pieces you leave dig out the line a little to give them some depth.

If you look you can see some nice spots to do it to.


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## TONOFFUN80

Nice BC rail car:laugh:


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## novice

I don't think the lines are necessarily a bad thing - look at the rock formations in the painted desert - they all have lines.

Perhaps just blending them in with the foliage and colors?

Still, looking good. well done.


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## concretepumper

NIMT said:


> Easy fix is to use Drywall mud as a skim coat, I mix mine with some white glue. Then with a gloved hand and a paint brush just put a thin coat on it that will get rid of the lines and leave the rock character.


I 2nd that Tap! :thumbsup: I bet a thin layer on drywall mud would make the lines go away.


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## TapRoot

yeah I like how they look naturally, if you look close at the first pic the mountain in the background looks a little more how it would to the eye....but at the right angle the lines are to clear...ill have to buy some more grey latex and acrylic washes so before I do that ill get to doing a little mudding and see what happens and post the results


cheers guys!


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## TapRoot

we'll I knew the time would come and summers creepin up so ill be on my way back out to Vernon for the next 6 months and no plans of returning to the residence im at now so this unfinished layout is now going bye bye......

hate to not finish it but yeah gotta do what yeah gotta do and it was fun while it lasted....

im also selling everything but a few select cars on ebay and kijiji so if anyone wants some track or turnouts or a full inventory list lemme know...

cheers


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## N-gauged

Look'n good.
I really like the portals you carved out.
Your mountain is look'n really good.
I'll be using the same stuff and doing the same thing when I get started on my n-scale layout.

I'm not sure how your gonna paint the mountain but I've done some cliffs before with this stuff
and the way I painted them was to paint the whole thing black first then use a few different shades of brown
and tan to dry brush over it so the black is still showing in all if the crevasses.

Keep up the good work.
​


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## TapRoot

thanks, although its going to be taken down this weekend....my buddy is looking at an acreage and thankfully it has a large out building that he wont have any use for, and since hes a rigger and will be gone all the time I am jumping on living there as soon as summers over...and maybe ill have enough saved up to go for the gold with a full sized yard and long stretches of track - maybe a Calgary to Vancouver model....

anyways im selling
*10 - full sized flex track
5 - shorter flex track
20 - 9" straits
5 - 9" Re-railers
3 - 9" uncoupler track (hornhook)
9 -18" radius curved Re-railers
60 + -18*Radius curved crack
27 -turnouts with 6 actuators
1 - tunnel port
box of rail nails (100 or so 3/4" long) not the wimpy useless ones they sell at model shops...
1 - full bottle of foliage
cattle ramp
8 - stock cars
4 - refridge cars
1 - tanker car
2 - steamers
1 - gas CP loco
and N guage transformer* 

and maybe a few peices of corkbed if I can pry it up without pulling to much glue and Im hoping to get maybe 150-200 for it all....ill list it on usedcalgary, kijiji, ebay and a few other sources just to feel out what I might actually get....I found a few adds on kijiji asking like $900 for roughly half the stuff but twice the freight cars and loco's so im not too sure....

also got a buncha cars, trucks, and a few buildings to go with it....ill sell my lionel cars separately for $5 each in the box....I may even slap some Kadee #5's and steel wheels and up it to $10 each as far as I can tell they would sell 20 times faster that way....

im no way done with MRR - just going to have to take what I learned and dream about the next one for now


cheers


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## TapRoot

also if anyone is in calgary and wants any free styrofoam scraps it'l be around for pickup too


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