# My new 2018



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

I just purchased a 2018 that is in need of overhaul. Can anyone help me with a parts break down? I intend to get it running like new and give it a new paint job but I know I'll need some parts. Plus this is the first engine I've worked on that includes smoke. Any suggestion will be appreciated.

Bud


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Unfortunately, the Olsen's tech library website is still down (since Sandy). You could normally find parts specs / diagrams there.

Is there something specific you need? I could look at my Greenberg's manual, or better yet, pick up a copy yourself ... well worth a few bucks, if you want to tinker ...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/0897784553/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

For parts, I'd recommend Jeff Kane, www.ttender.com

For smoke, check out this rehaul thread:

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=5580

Regards,

TJ


----------



## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Glad to see you're bringing life back to another 2018! 

Here's a thread I put together around a 2018 I did. I picked it up from a junk box at a shop, and it had been raided for parts. It's in great shape now.

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=5851


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Great thread on the restoration process, should help a lot.


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The 2026 is identical. 

Again! Time for an Amazon check on the Greenberg repair guide.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Attached are both 2026 variants, I actually have those in hand since I have one of those. 

Maybe these will help.


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

Wow, you folks are really exceptional I've got all in info I need and probably will buy a repair manual (as suggested).

So far I've torn the engine down and washed the shell, soaked the mechanism in paint thinner and sprayed it down with WD-40. Its nice and clean but will be wet for another couple of days. The smoke unit is in great shape so I might just add the parts to keep it a smoke pill unit. I'd like to keep the engine as original as possible but with all the chips and scratches on the shell it will need new paint. I'll also have to redo the numbers and will most likely use water slide decals and individually place them. The motor and e-unit all look great I don't even think new brushes will be required. After its good and dry and have polished the armature I'll know if the e-unit is OK. Here's what the shell looks like.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

It's been around the block a couple of times.  That's about like the one I painted looked, I didn't feel I was destroying a piece of history.


----------



## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

That's going to be a lot of fun. You can get a lot of practice without worrying about sinking a ton of money into it.

And it's going to be a fun, good looking engine when you're done. I like the 2018 / 2026 / etc. engines.


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Fun project, Bud ... keep us posted.

FYI ... maybe consider the dry-transfer cab numbers instead of we-transfer decals? Either will work, but I've found the dry-transfer generally easy to work with with pleasing end results.

Woodland Scenics makes a Roman font that's suitable.

TJ


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

TJ

I envy you with your skills. I even bought a correct stylus and still struck out on the rub on decals. Just never could get them to line up correctly. With the water slide I could move them around for ever and get them to look like they were painted on by a technician not thrown and stuck.


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

My simple secret / tip ...

With a razor and a straight edge, I cut out a row of dry-transfer letters from the sheet, yielding about 1/16" of "margin" below the letters themselves. Then, on my project (loco), I put down a row of low-stick masking tape the corresponding 1/16" below my target letter zone. Then, I gently hold my letter-strip to the tape edge, rub a letter, slide it over to the next letter, etc. The tape/margin helps keep things aligned nicely.

Cheers,

TJ


----------



## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

More excellent tips from TJ. That's a great one.


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

Sounds simple, but can Bud the Thumb do it?


----------



## Big Mike (Dec 2, 2011)

Question: I know one should never paint a POST-WAR train, but with those in such bad need of a face lift ,could they be bead blasted clean?
of course it would have to be die cast.

Mike


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Who says one should never repaint a postwar train? I must have missed that Decree somewhere!!!

As for bead-blasting ... yes, it can be done, but the beading will leave the shell a bit abraded ... more so than it's virgin cast-metal smoothness. You can cover/smooth this with primer/paint, but the end result of smoothness will depend on your paint buildup.

I can give you an example ... a 1688 was blasted. Thread has pics and dialog on the blasting pros/cons ...

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?p=117379

Conversely, I strip to bare metal via an Oven Clean bath (or two), and a detailed buff-down with my trusy Dremel stainless brushes. The process hasn't failed me yet.

cheers,

TJ


----------



## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Here's some inspiration - the 2018 I restored pulling its heart out. I really like that engine.


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

I'm an operator not a collector so new paint won't cost me a thing. So far the 2018 has been torn down and this morning got its Oven Cleaner bath. (see the photo) I thought the cab numbers were heat stamped but they were printed and came off quickly. The oven cleaner bath took three shots, man the paint Lionel used was good stuff. Tomorrow is supposed to be in the seventies again so I guess it'll get a coat of paint. But first I think it needs a vinegar bath to neutralize any acids that may be left. I don't intend to use a primer just paint the shell. I've painted two other engines without a primer and the results have been fine. Anyone care to disagree and help change my mind. 

With regard to the cab numbers, the casting under the cab windows was rough so I shot it with a square of primer and will sand it down before paint. On the whole the shell looks good, no dents or gouges.


----------



## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

That's looking pretty. So nice and clean.


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Why wouldn't you want to use a primer, Bud? What's your concern there? If you're using an over-the-counter rattle-can spray paint, any paint mfr is going to say that a primer is recommened for bare metal. Better paint adhesion, for sure.

I always prime .. not too thick/heavy. After the primer dries, I give a light rubdown with a fine ScotchBrite pad ... buff the surface, remove any micro-blemishes. A quick dry/clean microfiber towel wipe after that, and I'm ready for paint.

Stripped shell looks clean!

TJ


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

TJ:

Ok, OK, you've got me convinced. My prior concerns was that the primer would mask some of the detail however, I have seen the rattle can suggestions of using a primer. This job is going to get a primer coat and a rub down. Can't hurt and I may have added an additional step to my paint jobs.

All of my previous experience has been on plastic models with an air brush and Floquil lacquer it laid down nicely and dried smooth.

I'll let you know. Thank's TJ.

Bud


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Tip for the post primer buff-down ...

If you plan on using a new ScotchBrite pad, give it a thorough rub on something else hard, first ... like a plank of hardwood. This will remove / dull the larger abrasion bits on the pad, leaving it a bit softer and gentler for the loco shell rubdown.

Use "fine" pads ... grey color, if you can find them.

If you happen to have a piece of burlap, you could try that, instead.

For priming and painting (either one), I bend some coat-hanger wire to hold the shell "in the air" for the spraying ... other end of the coatwire poked into a big scrap of 2" pink-stuff insulation foam. For a loco shell, I'll stick one long wire through a set of windows on the cab (wire bent to a big rectangular U), and another coatwire jig-jogged at its end, poked into a smokestack hole.

Spray inside of shell first, let that dry, then flip to spray the outside.

TJ


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I frequently suspend stuff on a pedestal made of a 2x4 stuck in the bottom. Works great if it's like a boxcar or locomotive shell and allows you to reach everything outside. It also doesn't require me to have anything above it to suspend it.


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

So now its primed. Did the job yesterday afternoon and it still smells like paint. Guess I'll wait a couple of days before a good rub and paint.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'd give it a few days if you're going to be "rubbing" it before paint.


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

What primer / paint brand?

It certainly doesn't look like you've "lost" any detail with the primer coat to me. Everything looks quite crisp.

Cheers,

TJ


----------



## santafe158 (Jul 14, 2010)

tjcruiser said:


> What primer / paint brand?
> 
> It certainly doesn't look like you've "lost" any detail



Except the shiny metal bell.

Other than that, looks great


----------



## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

The paint should come right off the bell with a couple of swipes of the scotch brite pad. 

What paint are you going to use for the final color?


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

OK guys here's the specs of the paint and primer. The paint will be Krylon 51613 Satin Black, which I've used before. A little glossy but I kinda like it. The primer is Valspar grey and it smells like enamel. Not a real fast drying product but the weather here has been horrible. With cloudy cold days (temps in the 60's and high humidity) its not ripe for painting. Its easy to wait to paint until it warms and dries up.

Sometimes I wish I had a nice dry basement. But you can't dig one here in Jacksonville, FL. One good thing about it is that I don't have to store stuff for my kids.

Bud


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

You know the bell just pulls off? Pushes back on?

Most primer drys very quickly?


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

big ed:

This stuff doesn't, it was tacky for two days. Starting to stiffen up now, hope to start rubbing next week and paint when the sun comes out.

Didn't think about punching out the bell. Its in the shell pretty firmly. Think I'll use a small punch and get it out of the way.

Bud


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Why are you not using a Krylon primer as a base for the Krylon topcoat?

I don't know about the Valspar, but we've had other conversations here mentioning some no-nos for mixing paint/primer brands ... has to do with different solvent types.

TJ


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Just tape the bell. A wire whell will clean it right up.


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

Well I punched out the bell, wasn't in extremely tight. Paint is now complete and awaiting parts to finish the motor. This is the first time I painted with an initial coat of primer. Perhaps it was the brand of primer but I've got to tell you it will be the last time I prime first. This painted shell is real touchy, the paint will chip at the slightest provocation. All my other paint jobs have ended up with a very tough surface, but not this one. The Krylon settled down as nicely as all my other projects so I see no benefit to the primer. 

I've also decided to convert to liquid smoke so the kit is on my list of parts Jeff the Train Tender is sending. He is also overhauling my e-unit, it only needs the rivet holding the switch tightened but me and e-units don't get along.

Anyone have an idea for water slide cab decals. I'll be check out Micro Scale this afternoon.

Bud


----------



## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

The paint turned out looking really nice. I'm surprised you had that problem with the final coat over the primer. I always paint over primer and get really good adhesion.


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Wabashbud said:


> The paint will be Krylon 51613 Satin Black, which I've used before. A little glossy but I kinda like it. The primer is Valspar grey and it smells like enamel.


= = =



tjcruiser said:


> Why are you not using a Krylon primer as a base for the Krylon topcoat?


= = =



Wabashbud said:


> This is the first time I painted with an initial coat of primer. Perhaps it was the brand of primer but I've got to tell you it will be the last time I prime first.


Bud, you mixed primer/paint brands, apparently. I cautioned you against doing that! Different mfrs use different solvent bases.

TJ


----------



## lionellines (May 18, 2011)

If it were me, I'd strip the shell and start over again. That shell is just going to keep chipping otherwise.


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

Yep, I knew it. TJ warned me about mixing brands, but it was on the shelf just asking to be used. And as far as stripping and repainting is concerned lionel lines is correct, however I'll just wait until it starts showing those chips and then it gets stripped and repainted. Stripping and repainting is not a real big deal so I think I'll just run it for a while then correct my mistakes. Actually I am sort of a procrastinator. On my trip to the bank this morning I stopped at WalMart and got a fresh can of Krylon #51613 so I am ready when the 2018 is.


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Until then, a black Sharpie can cover most small dings. After applying, wait a bit, then rub with your finger to remove the slight purple sheen.

TJ


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I wear out my Sharpie pens fixing dings.

I recently spotted the complete 25 pen assortment of colors in Costco, and I grabbed it. It's great for little touchups for other than black. As long as the underlying surface is lighter than the color, they do a good job of matching. It's great for little dings that would be difficult to impossible to paint. In addition, a brief swipe with alcohol removes the color if you don't like it.


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

Well here's the completed 2018 with her new 2466W with smoke and whistle its a great runner and is one of my favorites. Sure happy I installed the liquid smoke kit.

Thanks to all for the nice comments, what a great forum.


----------



## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

That's one great looking loco. Nice job!


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

I sure appreciate all the nice comments.

Bud


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

That looks like it's fresh out of the ol' Jersey Lionel factory, Bud! Nice work.

Dry-transfer decals?

TJ


----------



## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Although I'm not a Lioel buff, I read this thread with renewed enthusiasm. Someday I will attempt to restore one of my Flyer engines and this thread has given plenty of lessons learned. Nice job Bud -- looks real sharp!!


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Looks like new, great job! :thumbsup:


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

TJ: The decals are from Jeff at the Train Tender and they are water slide. The cab decals (numbers) are adhesive. Never used adhesive decals before but they came out ok.

I must say that the guys on this forum are responsible for the successful outcome of this project. Not only that but now I am looking for more projects. I have a prewar 1684 and just bought a 1689T to go with it. From the pictures it will also need a lot of work and I am looking forward to that.

Bud


----------



## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

That is a great looking engine, and has me very excited as I have just purchased a 2018 from E-bay and am awaiting its arrival. The engine I have coming is in need of restoration and the information on this thread is fantastic. I do have a couple of questions. Mine has a broken marker light on the boiler front and I was wondering if the boiler front is removable or if I need a new shell? Also I do see some replacement marker lights on e-bay and was wondering how difficult they are to fit. The last question for now is what paint do you use to get the most stock looking appearance?
thanks and keep up the good work
Randy


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

Randy:

The boiler front is not removable and I have never tried that repair. However, there are several guys on this forum that can guide you. When you get your engine start a new thread, post pictures of it and and ask for help.

Bud


----------



## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

thanks bud, will do. should get the engine in a couple of days and cant wait to get started.
Randy


----------



## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Yay, another 2018 being restored. I'm looking forward to seeing your pics when the engine comes in, Randy.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

If you're going to paint the locomotive, it shouldn't be that difficult to graft a marker (or a set to make them match) onto the locomotive.


----------



## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

Sorry to let everyone hanging but I got the engine in and got straight to work. Bought a new shell to replace the one with the broken marker, Then cleaned and painted and oiled. Completed the engine about a week ago and am very happy with the results. So happy in fact that I just purchased a 1688 that needs restored today! I hope to take a little more time to document this one with some before and after pics and such. Didn't take any before shots of the 2018 so that takes some of the fun out of posting pics. I hope to start a new thread and put up some pics off the 1688. Thanks for the help I received along the way.
randy


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, we still want to see the "after" shots, so let's get them posted!


----------



## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

hopefully here is a pic of the finished 2018


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

That looks great, so I put it in-line in the thread.


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Randy,

The 2018 looks factory-fresh! Nice rehab. Looking forward to your 1688 work, too.

TJ


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

Yes sir nice job on a great engine. It always is great to see and old Lionel engine come back to life. 

Bud


----------

