# need reliability advice



## spacomp92653 (Jul 5, 2018)

I'd like to build a small RR layout and want the most reliable equipment that's available. I'm leaning towards N scale, am leaning towards a Kato loco since a local dealer says they are thee best, but I'd like to gather info before jumping in so am asking for advice here.

Should I choose a DCC or a DC power supply, are they equally reliable? Should I choose a DC loco or DCC; which is least likely to stall, quit working, have glitches, etc? Should I avoid getting DCC with sound, are those drop in boards a source of problems ever?

Should I use good flex track and solder the joints, or would Kato track be better? I'd prefer flex track.

Are there other brands equal or better than Kato for an N scale locomotive?


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

Welcome!

I can only answer the DCC vs. DC questions. 

Both are reliable. It depends upon how much operational flexibility you desire and how much wiring complications you are willing to deal with.

DCC is much easier to wire and has more flexibility of operation and programming. It is initially more expensive, but by the time you buy the hardware you need to wire DC, it does come out nearly the same.

DC is more involved with wiring blocks and isolated sections without as much operational flexibility and no programming for your locomotives.

I had to make this choice too, but after intensive investigation of DCC, it was a no-brainer.

A total DCC system can be had for $150.

By the time you by a decent DC transformer and the block switches and all the wiring you will need, it comes out nearly the same.


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## spacomp92653 (Jul 5, 2018)

Thanks. I'm also wanting to know about reliability of operation for different brands of locomotives, and whether DC or DCC controlled have much difference in reliability.

Am wondering if opinions I've heard about Kato being great, and Bachmann DCC being so-so are to be trusted? And what about Atlas and other brands?


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

I couldn't comment on Kato. I operate European brands and before that I was an Aethern owner.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

spacomp92653 said:


> Thanks. I'm also wanting to know about reliability of operation for different brands of locomotives, and whether DC or DCC controlled have much difference in reliability.
> 
> Am wondering if opinions I've heard about Kato being great, and Bachmann DCC being so-so are to be trusted? And what about Atlas and other brands?


I guess this really gets down to what you mean by "reliability". From a pure functionality perspective -- there is nothing to distinguish a DC from a DCC locomotive. While the DC motor gets its power directly from the rails, DCC uses rectified AC from a small circuit card (called a decoder), but the motor works the same either way.

Obviously, a DCC locomotive has electronic parts which COULD fail over time, but this a pretty rare occurrence. The only brand of DCC decoders that are questionable are MRC's. My personal experience is that Bachmann decoders are buzzy, but they work just fine.

DCC allows you to electronically program several speed characteristics of the loco's performance, including so-called starting voltage. In DC, it's often necessary to crank your transformer up to 50% power to get the loco to start moving. In DCC, you can program the decoder to deliver that same voltage to the motor in speed step one, so with a little tinkering, most locomotives can be made to perform beautifully across the entire range of speed steps (you can use up to 128, but I've never found the need for more than 28, personally). For me, this and the ability to have multiple locos in fully-independent operation at once without complicated wiring makes DCC a no-brainer.

The thing to remember is that defective happens. No matter what scale / brand you chose, you can get a dog. But no one today is consistently turning out low quality crap, and none of them has a significantly higher percentage of defects. Despite anecdotal evidence, you can confidently purchase any new production (less than about 10 years old) and have a reasonable expectation that it will perform reliably.

Dirty track and wheels and electrical connectivity along the rails is actually the biggest factor in poor performance. Keeping your track clean (and avoiding brass and steel rails), soldering your rail joints, and adding extra feeders is good insurance against these problems. Many new locomotives also have a small capacitor that allows it to run for a few seconds if track power is interrupted. You can add these yourself, too, if your electronics skills are up to it. You can also help by cleaning and maintaining (especially lubricating) your equipment as necessary.

Really, what you want to decide for your money is how much detail is on the loco and how accurate it is. Generally, more money provides you a more highly and accurately detailed loco.


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## spacomp92653 (Jul 5, 2018)

CTValley, thanks. What I meant by reliability was any failure to run an 'on time' model operation, for any reason, failure to start, locomotive needs to go into the shop for repairs, running glitchy or inconsistantly, etc. 

Nice of you to explain the cost factor that you are paying for detail. I suppose my local dealer is biased and he's been doing it a long time, when he said 'get Kato' we were discussing N scale and he simply said they were the best. Not sure if he would say the same about HO or other scales. So right now, I am leaning towards DCC, I'll avoid MRC decoders, was not sure what it meant that Bachmann decoders were buzzy? So maybe I should avoid Bachmann?

I'm leaning towards HO now, probably a diesel switcher to start with, maybe Broadway Limited or Atlas. I found a Bachmann Alco S4 I like with sound, but maybe by 'buzzy' you meant the sound card? I'd like to choose the brand that has the highest quality to start with but is also good about warranty and getting repairs done if needed. Certainly experience would dictate which brands do not break down and which brands are great about service or warranty if there is an issue. Any suggestions on brand?


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

spacomp:

If you're considering DCC, I'd suggest you take a look at the Roco z21 system.
Very easy to set up and get running, particularly if you already have some kind of "tablet" around (using either Android or iOS). Or, in lieu of that, use a smartphone to run it. Roco has a version of the software that works even on older devices, if that's all you have.

I bought the "white" z21 (little "z") from DMToys in Germany (cheaper than buying the black Z21 "big Z"). I bought the pre-configured router separately.

Although I don't have the Bachmann s4, I've seen complimentary reviews on YouTube.
However, for a little more, the Atlas s2 is "a step up".


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## spacomp92653 (Jul 5, 2018)

ok thanks I'll look at the Atlas S-2


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Our friends have done a pretty good job coming to
your assistance.

But, the old man always has something to add.

Unless you have very good eyesight and very
agile hands you are wise to go with HO scale.
It's much easier for the average person to work
on.

Today, the advances of metallurgy and quality control
offers a wide choice in model railroad equipment. Most
any brand you buy is as good as the next and price
relates only to detailing. 

There are Four major brands of DCC control systems
Digitrax, NEC and MRC. These are all full featured
and can do whatever tuning of your locos you might
want. The Bachmann EZ DCC system is very easy
to install and to use. It does everything you want to
run your trains, but lacks the ability to fine tune locos.
Again, you can depend on long years of trouble
free service with any one of them.

The Bachmann factory installed decoders perform
just as well as any other. However, many like to
make adjustments to the default settings of the
decoder. NEC and Digitrax decoders are favored
by many because they have more setting choices.

I have 10 Bachmann DCC locomotives. None has
any 'buzz' as you mention. Sometimes the shell
vibrates against the frame of a loco. This might be
the buzz referred to. A tiny shim here or there 
mutes that.

There has been discussion of CV settings for
your DCC decoders. This can be alarming or
confusing. Unless you get very picky about the
performance of your DCC loco, there is no reason
to make any such adjustments. 

The Bachmann S4 is fun to use. For a small loco
it has interesting pulling power and can handle 
the tough switching jobs. The only complaint I've
seen about it is that one of the tiny wires from the
truck to the decoder can be broken off. That's an
easy fix tho.

Many of us advise against buying any track on roadbed
system. These limit your layout design to what curves
and accessories they have available. Most of us use Flex track which you cut or bend to your layout design. Flex track is
compatible with all makes of turnouts and track accessories,
while the 'system' units require you to buy only what
they make.

Be aware that no DCC control system provides power
for turnouts, lights and the like. Some of us use an old
DC train power pack or discarded wall warts. You'll need
around 12 volts AC or DC for twin coil turnouts, and
12 volts DC if you use the Tortoise stall motors for
your turnouts.

Don


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## spacomp92653 (Jul 5, 2018)

thank you, really appreciate the advice of the experienced. :smilie_daumenpos:

So as to factory installed sound, which makes and models stand out as being 'better' than others? or are all the sound cards equally good? Since I'm leaning towards a switcher, I'm wondering if there are big differences in sound of an S-2 vs something like an F3 or GP38 due to speaker size and placement, or, is this a non-issue?


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

spacomp92653 said:


> thank you, really appreciate the advice of the experienced. :smilie_daumenpos:
> 
> So as to factory installed sound, which makes and models stand out as being 'better' than others? or are all the sound cards equally good? Since I'm leaning towards a switcher, I'm wondering if there are big differences in sound of an S-2 vs something like an F3 or GP38 due to speaker size and placement, or, is this a non-issue?


I would pass on anything with an MRC decoder in it (generally, these are sold by Model Power, which is owned by MRC). Interestingly, though, I PREFER their DCC control systems, although here again, there isn't much to distinguish the big 3 (MRC, Digitrax, NCE) capability wise; which you prefer is largely a matter of personal preference, and which you can get the best deal on.

I got my son a Bachmann Dynamis DCC system for his layout (and I don't recommend that one; we later sold it in favor of an MRC Prodigy Express). It came with a set of 3 Bachmann-branded non-sound decoders. After installing one of these in a Walthers Mainline and one in an Athearn, every time throttle was applied to these, a buzzing sound came from the motor. I pulled out those decoders and replaced them with Digitrax ones, and no more buzzing.

I personally don't do sound, since I think it actually detracts from the experience because it doesn't "compress" properly, so I have no firsthand experience with sound decoders. But again, I haven't heard any complaints about the big names (Soundtraxx, Tsunami).


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

Hi, new older guy speaking up here. I simply won't have a locomotive without sound unless I plan to install a decoder as soon as I can. Sometimes a good deal can be had if you can get both items for a reduced price, say on a clearance, and then mate them yourself if you have the skills.

The BIIIIGGGGG thing about sound is that in any scale but G gauge, the kind you see rolling around the odd back 40 that's as big as a football, sound simply doesn't pass the test for fidelity. Maybe in the future, but in the smaller scales the enclosures are just too small to give you that impressive oomph out of the decoder and speaker system. Still, it's a scale hobby, and really they're all just toys in the end, no matter how much we pay for them or hold them in high regard. If you want to truly enjoy the hobby, you have to learn what you like, and for me its DCC with sound. I already have to suspend disbelief when I power up the trains and run them around my layout. Why not do that with the sounds at the same time and let the sounds add to the Gestalt?

TCS WOW and the LokSound decoders are about the best there is, although the recently introduced new version of the Soundtraxx "Tsunami II" is probably right up there. The idea with sound decoders is to get a very close/correct sound file so that your engine largely sounds like the real thing did/does. Why is this important? Well, lemme tell ya. About 12 years ago I ordered the newly run Rivarossi 2-6-6-6 Allegheny that was now available with DCC and sound. (This was the second time, at least, that this particular loco had been offered, but the first time with DCC). The decoder, impressively, was a LokSound. Beautiful running programming for the drive mechanism, silky smooth, and the sounds were truly excellent. Except, they were almost entirely bogus. The Allegheny came with a hooter whistle, but this one had a three chime. The Allegheny was a 7000 HP monster, but the chuff sounds literally sounded like wimpy 'chiffs'. I laughed the first time I moved the locomotive; is this a joke?! Somebody's pulling my leg. But, no, that's how the good folks felt this tiny toy locomotive should sound, like a chiffy wimp.

No decoder will provide good/great sound unless it is matched with a decent speaker and unless the speaker is properly mounted in a baffle enclosure to prevent wave cancellation. And even if mounted expertly and correctly, if it's in a tiny shell like the not-very-empty SW2 you are thinking about, it could sound quite tinny. That said, I have a 13 year old Proto 2000 SW8 with an older, factory installed, QSI. The speaker fires down through small holes in the bottom surface of the fuel tank suspended under the frame. I think it's a fairly good installation and sounds quite good for that tiny beast.


Long post, sorry, but there's a lot you should know before you go plunking down your plastic and then ruing your decision. As me dear ol' pappy warned me, sin in haste, repent at leisure.


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## ncrc5315 (Jan 25, 2014)

Personally, I would look for an HO scale locomotive with ESu Loksound decoders, factory installed. If you don't want sound, then he ESu Lokpilot decoder. I would also look at the ESu Cab Control for DCC control. The digitrax, and the NCE are very good systems, I myself have had a Digitrax system for 18 years. Having said that, I'm currently waiting the arrival of my new ESu Cab Control system.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Kato and Micro/Trains*



spacomp92653 said:


> I'd like to build a small RR layout and want the most reliable equipment that's available. I'm leaning towards N scale, am leaning towards a Kato loco since a local dealer says they are thee best, but I'd like to gather info before jumping in so am asking for advice here.
> 
> Should I choose a DCC or a DC power supply, are they equally reliable? Should I choose a DC loco or DCC; which is least likely to stall, quit working, have glitches, etc? Should I avoid getting DCC with sound, are those drop in boards a source of problems ever?
> 
> ...


Spacomp;

Kato locomotives are excellent runners, and very reliable. Micro/Trains makes excellent quality freight cars in N-scale. Kato also sells beautiful, smooth running models of famous name passenger trains like the Super Chief, Empire Builder, etc. Kato's couplers work very well with each other, but sometimes not with other brands.

Flex track is a good choice. My favorite is Micro Engineering code 55 flex track, because of it's realistic appearance. However any brand will work. As for soldering the joints, I suggest soldering all the joints on curves (while the two pieces of track are still straight to prevent kinks.) But I would leave the joints on straight track unsoldered to allow for expansion and contraction.

DCC will let you run two, or more, trains on the same track without any complicated wiring. It also helps any locomotive's slow speed performance. You can also have sound with DCC. If you ever plan to have more than one train running, I recommend going with DCC from the start.

I disagree with the notion that N-scale is only for the eagle-eyed and super sure handed. I'm 70 yrs. old. have to wear glasses, and my hands aren't all that steady anymore. I manage just fine with N-scale. If you really have some serious health issues that will make working with small things impossible, then yes, go for a bigger scale; possibly one of those bigger than either N or HO. Scale is a personal choice based on how much space you have, and ultimately, which scale you like best.

Keeping track, and wheels clean is very important for reliability. There are commercial wheel cleaning tools available. A Minitrix brand N -scale wheel cleaner is shown in the photo below, it's the blue and white striped item on the left. You just set it on the rails and hold a locomotive on top of the cleaner. The power is passed from the rails up to brass brushes that clean the wheels. It does a great job, and is very simple to use.

A rag damp with alcohol will wipe track clean. Another handy track cleaning item is a "Brite Boy" track cleaning block. It looks like a large pencil eraser, but contains grit to help scrub dirt off the rails. The Brite boy itself gets dirty quickly. I use the LPS-1 in the photo to clean the Brite Boy. 

The file below has more information for new model railroaders. You may want to give it a look, if you choose.

good luck:

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:









View attachment How to better model railroad the first time. Part 1.pdf


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

OK, I'm going to jump in here and start a firestorm (I am praying for all of you in California) and say that, while I know nothing about MRC's DCC system, between Digitraxx and NCE, for a beginner I would suggest NCE. And this for the simple fact that their manual is much more intuitive and easy to understand than that written by Digitraxx. This is not simply my opinion, do some internet research and you will find that many, many people have come to the same conclusion. Now I make this statement on the assumption that you are a lone wolf modeller, that their is noone nearby to come over and help you get things set up and sorted out. If you have a club nearby that can help you, that changes things. In that case I would recommend that you select whichever DCC system the club uses, provided you are a member of the club. I am a lone wolf modeller, though there is a club in my city. I do not belong because they are really more of a historical society than a MODEL railroad club, although they do have a modular layout they put together for show.
I don't even know what they use for DCC. I use the NCE Powercab, in fact I have two of them: one at the workbench, the other on the layout. They are really simplicity personified. I had never before used DCC, and in less than 10 minutes I was running a DCC equipped loco on my test track.
But again I'd like to say: if you belong to a club, get whatever system they use. That way you will have help when questions arise.
Welcome to the hobby and the forum!


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## spacomp92653 (Jul 5, 2018)

"I personally don't do sound, since I think it actually detracts from the experience because it doesn't "compress" properly."

Now, CTValley, I'm intrigued by what you said. I'm wondering if many others have this opinion? 

I'll go to Pomona train show next weekend and absorb as much as I can. Sound would be on my list of items to observe although in a crowded building it's about the worst possible conditions to listen and judge.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

spacomp92653 said:


> "I personally don't do sound, since I think it actually detracts from the experience because it doesn't "compress" properly."
> 
> Now, CTValley, I'm intrigued by what you said. I'm wondering if many others have this opinion?
> 
> I'll go to Pomona train show next weekend and absorb as much as I can. Sound would be on my list of items to observe although in a crowded building it's about the worst possible conditions to listen and judge.


Some things in the hobby do not scale well. Smoke and real water are highest on the list. Some just love the smoke generators on their HO steamers, but I can't abide by it. Real water runs along at real speed, about ten times as fast as it should on the scale railroad. I think CTValley is talking in those terms, but he should confirm. 

If I am correct about his use of 'compress', sound also doesn't scale well. If you were standing about 300' from a steamer, you'd barely be able to hear it unless it were working hard and chuffing, or blowing the whistle. But, across the layout room, a scale half-mile away (really only a few yards), your loco sounds every bit as loud to you. Worse, they compete against each other in a room. 


Almost universally, people hate the loud factory settings for volume. It's loud, distorted usually, and makes everyone present raise their voices. It gets old really fast when two or more locos are running with much more than 60% Master Volume setting within about 10 feet of each other. That, there, is proof that the sound doesn't scale.


The train show will be very noisy, and you'll have to lean in close to hear any sound locos. It's a vastly different experience when in a 10 X 20 room with two other operators using sound locomotives with the properly reduced Master Volume.


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## spacomp92653 (Jul 5, 2018)

mesenteria, I do understand. scaling down water for example, the surface tension of water does not scale down, that's probably why in old warfare movies their perfectly scaled models look like a toy when the destroyer is at speed sub hunting. So being shy about buying an Alco S-2 with weak volume; maybe it is MORE realistic than big pumped up volume from a louder system. I'm beginning to get a clue here. Still, to other's comments, the fun of this hobby may not have to do with perfect scaling, it may be more in the eyes and ears of the beholder, and that's gonna be a personal opinion kinda thing. I'm sure many here hold their own opinion. Likely I will stink at the visual modeling, until I gain experience, so sound and visual quality of the rail, locos, and cars will be my enjoyment for now.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*"Non-onboard sound"*



spacomp92653 said:


> "I personally don't do sound, since I think it actually detracts from the experience because it doesn't "compress" properly."
> 
> Now, CTValley, I'm intrigued by what you said. I'm wondering if many others have this opinion?
> 
> I'll go to Pomona train show next weekend and absorb as much as I can. Sound would be on my list of items to observe although in a crowded building it's about the worst possible conditions to listen and judge.


spacomp;

Train shows are a great way to learn a lot about the hobby. You will be able to speak with people, face to face, who have been modeling for decades. There are also demonstrations of various products. The Micro/Trains magnetic couplers, for instance are often demonstrated. You will be able to see for yourself exactly how they work. Often such shows have at least one day where the commercial products are each demonstrated in the company's booth. Try to attend when that's going on.

As for sound, there are really two different kinds. The most popular type, and the one we've all been referring to so far, is called "onboard Sound." That simply means that the sounds are made inside the locomotive, and radiate out from it. You have been advised regarding the limitations of the necessarily tiny speakers that can fit inside a model. 

The other choice for sound is the systems that are not in the locomotive(s) but under the layout. There are a couple of commercial versions available. One is even able to be synchronized with the movement of a Digitrax brand DCC locomotive decoder. The sound travels from one location's speaker to another as the locomotive does. I think the brand is something like "Surround sound," though that's not exactly it. This system will not do that trick with any other brand of DCC decoder than Digitrax, so that may influence your DCC system choice. Kato also makes such a sound system. Both brands are very expensive, but you may be able to hear these systems and compare their sound to onboard sound. The big advantage is their ability to use much bigger speakers than what will fit inside a model locomotive. This translates into much more realistic sound. However, it's more like "expanded" than "compressed." Different folks like different things. Listen to both, and see which you like better.

Have fun!

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## ncrc5315 (Jan 25, 2014)

I would download the manuals of the various DCC systems that you are interested in, read through them, and that may help you make a decision as to which brand you want to purchase. Originally, I had an NCE system on order, before receiving it, I read through the digitrax manual, canceled the NCE, and purchased the Digitrax system, like I said, now I'm waiting on the ESu Cab Control system.


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

_*OP:*_

Again, I'd suggest taking a look at the Roco z21 wireless/wifi system for dcc.
Next-to-no-one here seems to ever mention it.

Best way to see the difference between how it works vs. "all the rest" is to watch some YouTube videos on what it is and how to set it up.

The best part is, that's it's a totally "graphical interface" vs. the "function buttons" on conventional "wired-style" dcc controllers.

It runs on almost any kind of digital device -- iPhone, Android phone, iPad, Android tablet, about any kind of Android device, from a laptop, PC or Mac, etc.
(Having said that, it can run from wired controllers, as well, such as the "MultiMaus")

I can run it using:
- OLD Samsung Galaxy player (NOT a phone, very old version of Android, and the z21 app still works with it)
- MacBook Pro using either "JMRI" or the z21 app (for Android), running under the NOX app player.

If you have an iPad or Android tablet, it will display "dual controls" -- one locomotive on one side with the second loco using the other half of the display (no switching "back and forth" to control both at once).

Using it makes just about all the other systems mentioned above look to be the equivalent of (as Mr. Spock said in "The City on the Edge of Forever") "stone knives and bear skins"...


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## spacomp92653 (Jul 5, 2018)

I am going to have to look hard at this Roco z21 once I actually have something to control.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

J.Albert1949 said:


> _*OP:*_
> 
> Again, I'd suggest taking a look at the Roco z21 wireless/wifi system for dcc.
> Next-to-no-one here seems to ever mention it.
> ...


I'm going to say, take this recommendation with a grain of salt.

As I said in my original post, the differences between DCC systems are essentially all about user preference. Even the comment above about Digitrax manuals is a personal preference. Some folks like big, meaty manuals; others like it quick and dirty. Doesn't make either a better system.

What he considers the "best part" (the all graphic interface), I consider a huge weakness. I operate my controllers by touch, often, and rely on the tactile feel to get the right inputs. Better or worse? No. Just personal preference.

The more of these systems you can try before you buy, the better.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

mesenteria said:


> Some things in the hobby do not scale well. Smoke and real water are highest on the list. Some just love the smoke generators on their HO steamers, but I can't abide by it. Real water runs along at real speed, about ten times as fast as it should on the scale railroad. I think CTValley is talking in those terms, but he should confirm.
> 
> If I am correct about his use of 'compress', sound also doesn't scale well. If you were standing about 300' from a steamer, you'd barely be able to hear it unless it were working hard and chuffing, or blowing the whistle. But, across the layout room, a scale half-mile away (really only a few yards), your loco sounds every bit as loud to you. Worse, they compete against each other in a room.


This is it, in a nutshell. My layout is a 14 x 17 foot C shape. One end of the C is Old Saybrook, the other is Middletown, 28 miles away. The staging / yard, that represents New Haven, is about 45 miles from either, yet it's right behind the center section of the C. I should not be able to hear a whistle blowing -- or any sounds, actually -- in Cedar Hill yard (New Haven) at any other point on the layout, but you can hear them no matter where you stand.

Since I'm normally running 3 or more locos at once, what you would get is a cacophony of blended noise rather than the discrete sounds of any one train. It just doesn't do it for me.

As with so many things, this isn't a right or wrong, just a personal preference, and if sound works for you, then use it with my blessing. Just don't expect to make a convert of me.


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

CT Valley wrote:
_"What he considers the "best part" (the all graphic interface), I consider a huge weakness. I operate my controllers by touch, often, and rely on the tactile feel to get the right inputs. Better or worse? No. Just personal preference."_

The point is well-taken, but the z21 system can be run with an "old-style" controller with "touch" function buttons as well (see the "Multimaus" controllers). It has an input port so you can plug in wired controllers.
It works either way, wired or wifi.

*OP:*
If you have any one of the following:
- iPhone
- iPad
- Android phone
- Android tablet
- Mac computer
- PC computer

... you can download the Roco z21 app and try it out before you buy, to see what's involved.
The app will "run" in "demo mode". But you can still browse around and see how it works.

On the Mac, you will need to download the "NOX app player" (not related to z21) that enables one to run Android apps (in emulation) on the Mac.
I'm not sure how one would emulate the Android environment on a PC -- I don't touch Windows...


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