# In need of assistance



## CharlesV (Jun 23, 2018)

Hello Model Train Forum,


I've never built something quite like this before... I am currently working on an art piece which will involve an N scale train layout; one which will need to be completely DCC. I've been trying to get the layout running on DC, and have had some amount of success; though still some configurations of switch positions render parts of the track unpowered. I've tried to fix the problems by placing feeders in the locations indicated in the diagram attached below... 












I am in serious need of assistance. 

I have an NCE power cab, that's the DCC system I plan to use, at least to start. Ultimately, I would want to be able to run 3 locomotives at once on this track. Can anyone tell me what else, if anything, I will need in order to have a fully functional, reliably operating dcc layout with the track shown here? What considerations do I need to make, and what further kinds of devices, (if any) do I need to purchase? I'm using Kato's Unitrack system. I really need to finish this art piece, the clock is ticking. What would you suggest? 

Many thanks in advance,

-Charles


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You got stuck in moderation, I set you free.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

Assumptions:

You have feeders on both sides of any electric gaps in the rails, or you're happy with power-routing turnouts and use them.

You have no reversing loops.

Your double crossover is properly gapped, probably a Walthers/Shinohara or a Peco, but only internally to the appliance itself.

So, on those bases, you should be good to go. Just become adept over time retaining strict control of all three locomotives. You'll be challenged, believe me.

Essentially, you should feed the rails for about six feet on either side of a wire feeder. You CAN go further, but a safe practice is about 6 feet. After 9 feet you will notice a degradation in speed as the voltage drops. What is not commonly realized by newcomers is that the metal joiners between rails are excellent for mechanical alignment, but eventually very unreliable for passage of electrical current. Most of us simply resign ourselves to soldering the joiners and the feeders once we know we have a good track system we can live with.

Complex turnouts such as the double crossover should have internal gaps to make it 'DCC friendly' at the very least. I have a W/S Code 83 version I have used on two layouts now, and I feed all eight rail ends directly with joiners. W/S designers looked after the rest for me, gaps and continuity jumpers under the rails, and it all works flawlessly. I expect that the Peco versions would do the same.


Finally, your NCE system will easily handle the power demands of those three locomotives, even DCC with sound.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

So far as I can tell after reading comments on N Scale
Kato turnouts, they are POWER ROUTING. That means
if points are set for straight, the power is shut off to
the diverting track or off to straight if points set to
divert. It appears that the #4 Kato turnouts have
a switch to select power routing or not. #6s are
always power routing.

if you wish to have 'always on' power on all of your tracks
you'll need to attach drops to BOTH frog rails of any
Kato that cannot be set for non power routing.

I agree, your existing DCC system is capable of handling
even more than 3 trains running at the same time.

You should however, make sure to have power drops
from your track to a bus from your DCC controller 
every 6 feet or so. This will provide smooth even
power for your trains.

It is important to remember that your locos get their
power thru their wheels in contact with the rails. Therefore,
you should have a policy of cleaning the rails and the
loco wheels on a regular basis. Alcohol is possibly the
most used for this task.

Don


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## Rabman (May 30, 2018)

mesenteria said:


> Assumptions:
> 
> Your double crossover is properly gapped, probably a Walthers/Shinohara or a Peco, but only internally to the appliance itself.


Sorry for the newbie questions. What do you mean by properly gapped? The dimensions in the turnout are to NMRA standard.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I'm confused by the 'properly gapped' comment also.

Since you have no reverse loops or Electrofrog
turnouts I see no reason for any rail gaps.

Don


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

Haven't I seen this same layout somewhere else?


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

MichaelE said:


> Haven't I seen this same layout somewhere else?


looks kinda like my layout when i first started my kato track.
that track looks good to go for dcc. looks like my track kind.


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

charles you have inspired me to change my track plan. Hope to see more of your build soon


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## jwg766 (Jul 12, 2018)

Charles, 

Which sections are not working? Best I can tell, your double crossover is wired ok as all four "legs" need power. Right down the middle is insulated. You only have two other power sources to the layout, which may or may not be enough. thus the question of where is the breakdown.

Also, have you made sure to keep Rail A as Rail A all the way around your layout? I use Kato Unitrack as well and use the pneumonic that Rail B always gets the blue (B) wire. As example in your track layout, the five power connectors at the bottom should all have the same color connector towards you. The one connector at the top, at the rail yard, should have that same color away from you.

John


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## tankist (Jun 11, 2009)

John, it doesn't look like OP logged in ever since


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## jwg766 (Jul 12, 2018)

I saw that it had been a bit...but it was the first time I saw a chance to help! Took a shot...will keep trying.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

tankist said:


> John, it doesn't look like OP logged in ever since


Like so many others just passing through...


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