# What type of plastics are used for wheels?



## Ed.James (Apr 6, 2017)

One of the locomotives I bought for my grandson is a Tyco "Clementine" steamer. Two of the plastic wheels on the tender were cracked and it had problems especially on the grade leading up to a bridge. I believe the axle were spinning inside the wheels. I just bought a Tyco billboard that makes steam whistle sounds and I wanted him to be able to run the steamer and blow the whistle. 

I figure that trying to glue the wheels would be a waste of time so I decided to see if I could turn a wheel on the lathe. I have quite a few plastic/acrylic rods and pen blanks that I use to make stems for smoking pipes--but none of them are black. I ended up using a piece of vulcanite ( hard rubber) and managed to get one made.I have some delrin but hate working with it. Didn't get the tire groove quite deep or wide enough and had to trim some off the width of the tire. 

It moves some better--for a while then the other axle starts to spin. Plan to make the other wheel tomorrow.

Anyone know what types of plastics wheels are generally made of?


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## NAJ (Feb 19, 2016)

I cannot answer your question but I do applaud your talent at being able to make these things, Kudos!!! :appl:


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I can no more answer the question than NAJ can, but here are some thoughts:

-- If you're making the wheels out of vulcanite, I don't think you'd need the groove. Those are for traction tires, and I don't think adding a traction tire to a rubber wheel will add much.

-- Have you tried replacing the traction tires? You can use orthodontic elastics, actual replacement tires (although not always available for all locos), or a product called Bullfrog Snot, which is kind of like rubber cement.

-- You might want to look into metal wheelsets. Replacements are more common for diesels than steam, but you might find something. Start with Northwest Short Line (www.nwsl.com); if they don't have what you want, they're great folks who can often recommend a solution.

-- As you discovered, old Tyco is not really a bargain, and often has operating problems. You may want to invest in something more robust.


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

ABS is pretty durable, very high tolerance to wear.

Dan


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## Ed.James (Apr 6, 2017)

NAJ said:


> I cannot answer your question but I do applaud your talent at being able to make these things, Kudos!!! :appl:


Thank you ! I'm no skilled machinist,self taught with help from the internet mostly--took a night class back in 1969 and didn't touch a lathe until I bought a small one about 4 years ago.


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## Ed.James (Apr 6, 2017)

CTValleyRR said:


> I can no more answer the question than NAJ can, but here are some thoughts:
> 
> -- If you're making the wheels out of vulcanite, I don't think you'd need the groove. Those are for traction tires, and I don't think adding a traction tire to a rubber wheel will add much.
> 
> ...


I use a high quality German vulcanite for pipe stems.Although not as hard as most acrylics it is hard and fairly slick although it must be sanded and buffed to shine. I doubt that even a rough turned piece such as this wheel would give much traction.

I've been looking at metal wheels and did buy some to use on the rolling stock, so far replaced the wheels on a lighted Amtrak passenger car which worked out nicely.

I'd really like to buy newer locomotives but don't want to spend too much until I'm sure the grandson isn't going to loose interest in model railroading. Besides. I do enjoy tearing them apart and hopefully getting them to work. I've been watching Ebay for cheap non running units to use for parts and have a couple coming. Problem is finding some with reasonable shipping charges. If I should decide to do a layout for myself I will buy new stuff--if I can afford them.


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## Ed.James (Apr 6, 2017)

Panther said:


> ABS is pretty durable, very high tolerance to wear.
> 
> Dan


I hadn't thought about ABS,never used it except for plumbing. But since it isn't as hard or as brittle as the acrylics I have used-- it just may be the way to go , and Google tells me it is available in black rods.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Ed.James said:


> I use a high quality German vulcanite for pipe stems.Although not as hard as most acrylics it is hard and fairly slick although it must be sanded and buffed to shine. I doubt that even a rough turned piece such as this wheel would give much traction.


Most model locomotives run just fine with a metal on metal contact patch. If the locomotive is heavy enough, it will run fine.


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## Ed.James (Apr 6, 2017)

CTValleyRR said:


> Most model locomotives run just fine with a metal on metal contact patch. If the locomotive is heavy enough, it will run fine.


I'm beginning to think that maybe a little added weight might help the problem. I made a replacement for the other cracked wheel and there was some improvement but it would still spin and slow down a lot. The problem area is not only on a grade but also a 15" radius curve-not sure if the curve is making the problem worse or not. Also it could be that the motor doesn't have enough "oomph" to pull the train up that grade--may be getting tired-- or worn out and added weight may make it worse. Will find out.


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## doneuald (Jan 2, 2016)

IMO if your making HO scale wheels on a lathe your " pretty skilled"


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Ed.James said:


> I'm beginning to think that maybe a little added weight might help the problem. I made a replacement for the other cracked wheel and there was some improvement but it would still spin and slow down a lot. The problem area is not only on a grade but also a 15" radius curve-not sure if the curve is making the problem worse or not. Also it could be that the motor doesn't have enough "oomph" to pull the train up that grade--may be getting tired-- or worn out and added weight may make it worse. Will find out.


15" radius in HO is pretty tight for a steam loco with 3 or more pairs of drivers, especially if they all have flanges and can't slide side to side. Your wheels could be binding on the rails in the curve.


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## IronManStark (Jan 15, 2017)

I would suggest to keep a eye on eBay for a old rivarossi berkshire 2-8-4 you can usually snag them for $50 or a little less with shipping. Take it down to the frame. Give it a good cleaning. Look on eBay for a D22 cannon motor. Cut your weight at the end where the old motor would be. Mill yourself a drive shaft. ( your already milling wheels, I think a shaft would be cake!) 
Add a little weight to the mid section of the frame. Put it together. Boom!!!! You got a strong running steamer that cost less than $70 bucks give or take a little. 
I know you would be happy with it. I also know it can be done as I have done 4 already! Two with that motor & the other 2 with a pair of bachmann motors I got out of some spectrum locos that the body & chassis where shot 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Ed.James (Apr 6, 2017)

doneuald said:


> IMO if your making HO scale wheels on a lathe your " pretty skilled"


Thanks,luckily the wheels are not too complicated to make. Check out this link I found today on a mini lathe group I belong to,--I wish I had this kind of skill !--
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/shares/72jrn8?ytcheck=1


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## Ed.James (Apr 6, 2017)

CTValleyRR said:


> 15" radius in HO is pretty tight for a steam loco with 3 or more pairs of drivers, especially if they all have flanges and can't slide side to side. Your wheels could be binding on the rails in the curve.


I can see where that would be a problem. This tender has a total of 8 wheels. Both trucks have only 2, with four being driven by the motor. The trucks, to me anyway, are kinda funky. They are attached to a metal block which in turn is attached to the motor by a pin and secured with a tiny cir-clip. The inside ends of the trucks springs (?) just flop around but when I turned them it seemed they didn't have much travel and would come in contact with the drive wheels. I took some material off the inside on a belt sander to provide more clearance. Not sure if that helped or not.

I tried adding weight as you suggested by laying a lead wheel weight on the tender. That helped and it would get around the track but only at full throttle and would still spin going up that graded curve. 

Finally I took it to the work bench and sat it on a couple of lengths of track so that I could see just how it was sitting-- hard to see that on the pool table, and could see that some of the wheels where not setting where they should. So,I removed them all and using the track as a gauge set the width --have a gauge ordered.Had to put two fiber washer behind one of the wheels I made,without them the gears wouldn't stay meshed.

Back on the track it ran great--even at low speed and without the added weight. Guess I should have payed more attention to the wheel spacing earlier !!


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## Ed.James (Apr 6, 2017)

IronManStark said:


> I would suggest to keep a eye on eBay for a old rivarossi berkshire 2-8-4 you can usually snag them for $50 or a little less with shipping. Take it down to the frame. Give it a good cleaning. Look on eBay for a D22 cannon motor. Cut your weight at the end where the old motor would be. Mill yourself a drive shaft. ( your already milling wheels, I think a shaft would be cake!)
> Add a little weight to the mid section of the frame. Put it together. Boom!!!! You got a strong running steamer that cost less than $70 bucks give or take a little.
> I know you would be happy with it. I also know it can be done as I have done 4 already! Two with that motor & the other 2 with a pair of bachmann motors I got out of some spectrum locos that the body & chassis where shot
> 
> ...


This sounds like something I would enjoy doing ! Have always enjoyed modifying things ! I've been eyeballing used Bachman and Athern diesels with the idea of using the frame and motor under a Tyco "Midnight Special" sharknose shell.


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## IronManStark (Jan 15, 2017)

Ed.James said:


> This sounds like something I would enjoy doing ! Have always enjoyed modifying things ! I've been eyeballing used Bachman and Athern diesels with the idea of using the frame and motor under a Tyco "Midnight Special" sharknose shell.




I like the way you think!! 
Sounds like you just might have a addiction to a great hobby starting lol 


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## time warp (Apr 28, 2016)

Your steamer has a Powertorque motor, Ed. Don't try to put metal wheels on that particular set up because the motor block is live and you may create a short.

Wish I'd known you needed wheels for it, I have those too.


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## Ed.James (Apr 6, 2017)

time warp said:


> Your steamer has a Powertorque motor, Ed. Don't try to put metal wheels on that particular set up because the motor block is live and you may create a short.
> 
> Wish I'd known you needed wheels for it, I have those too.


I'll keep that in mind Rodney in case I come across more cracked wheels !! 

Now that I have made a couple of wheels for this locomotive I might be inclined to make some metal wheels for a diesel later on--just for the heck of it ! Think I have some 5/8" 360 brass rod around the shop somewhere....


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