# New member from Charleston, SC



## midnightmadman29 (Nov 2, 2012)

Hi everyone I am brand new here. I have had HO trains as a child and did a set up about 5 years ago but took it down when I moved from NY to SC.

I just wanted to post a picture of my HO layout I am working on. Im doing it in my garage corner and its a 8x4x4 L
Please let me know your thoughts... I am not sure of anything yet except my track design... I do have a bunch of oil cars, freight cars and 3 Engines.
I want to run two separate lines because I'm not using DCC
I am also not sure about any rises yet but would like to do something with a trestle bridge somewhere if possible? I am also trying to avoid using the blue foam as a base, last time I used it and didn't like having to glue everything. I kind of like a solid 3/4 plywood base - which is what I have... is there going to be any problems from that? 

Tom


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

Welcome!!

I like your set up. 

The 3/4" ply will make it very heavy, but will be very sturdy! Are you using cabinet grade wood? that stuff is expensive, but worth it as it is very smooth. You will need to use risers to make the tressle set up. You use foam or those rigid plastic ones. You can also use 1/4 plywood for a ledge type setup and scenic out the spaces on the sides to look like a ledge.

I would make one suggestion. Add a cross over so that you can run your trains on either loop. You will need insulated joiners though. Atlas also makes an electrical switch so you can isolate the loops electrically.

Best case, when you have the cash, is to go DCC. I've been adding DCC decoders to my locomotives. I have bought only two locos w/DCC. They were used and priced like a non DCC locomotive.


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## midnightmadman29 (Nov 2, 2012)

rrgrassi said:


> Welcome!!
> 
> I like your set up.
> 
> ...


Hi and thanks. I have the main 8x4 out of 3/4 regular plywood, its not perfect but not bad. the 4x4 L part is made from some signboard which is perfectly smooth/flat.
I wanted a cross over from track to track but didn't know I could do that and still run two engines independent? I would like to use two power packs basically to keep them at different speeds and direction... will that insulated joiner solve that somehow? Will I have enough distance somewhere to make a rise that isnt too steep? Maybe along the outside track?


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## New Berlin RR (Feb 11, 2012)

midnightmadman29 said:


> Hi and thanks. I have the main 8x4 out of 3/4 regular plywood, its not perfect but not bad. the 4x4 L part is made from some signboard which is perfectly smooth/flat.
> I wanted a cross over from track to track but didn't know I could do that and still run two engines independent? I would like to use two power packs basically to keep them at different speeds and direction... will that insulated joiner solve that somehow? Will I have enough distance somewhere to make a rise that isnt too steep? Maybe along the outside track?


as for the cross points I would say a total of four (4) points so you can switch your trains around as you please, they would be insulated....so yea you can still run trains "independent" of each other, never did this my self but I am also setting up with DCC out of the gate anyways


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Welcome to the forum, Tom!

Ditto on a crossover or two between inner/outer loops. You can do that with conventional DC by wiring the track in "block" sections (insulated from each other), with each section turned on/off via a simple toggle switch.

As for the trestle idea ... something surely could work, but you need to think about the track slope (or "grade", as we call it). Grade is measured as a ratio, expressed in percent ... a grade of 2% means that the track rised 2" vertically for every 100" of horizontal run. A 3% grade rises 3" in 100", and so on. 

For HO, a 2% grade is quite doable. Most engines will pull a decent load over 2%. 3% is getting steeper, though it's quite common on HO layout, given the spacial layout limitations. 4% is getting quite steep, likely limiting pulling power.

So, if you consider a trestle, think about the slope/grade required for the track.

(You could have a track with zero grade and still have a trestle, of course ... something elevated on a burm or hill, with a river/valley running underneath in way of the trestle. Lots of options.)

Regards,

TJ


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## midnightmadman29 (Nov 2, 2012)

tjcruiser said:


> Welcome to the forum, Tom!
> 
> Ditto on a crossover or two between inner/outer loops. You can do that with conventional DC by wiring the track in "block" sections (insulated from each other), with each section turned on/off via a simple toggle switch.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys! I was thinking about using that back corner as my 'highest point' if I put a bridge in.. do you think I would have enough track distance on that outside loop to do it? I would like to start on the back left side going up and the front right corner as the other end down... middle point in that back corner. So thats like 15' of distance.
Also with those crossovers, if they are insulated does the engine ever run into trouble getting across them being that there is a point with no power? Do the insulation connectors go in in between the switch and the other track its connecting to?


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

this is what you need to run your layout with DC blocks. I feel that you will be happy with it. It works great to help find sorts in DCC to.


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## midnightmadman29 (Nov 2, 2012)

Southern said:


> this is what you need to run your layout with DC blocks. I feel that you will be happy with it. It works great to help find sorts in DCC to.


I'm not sure what your saying in this post.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

That photo link isn't working for some reason. Try this direct link ...

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=&FVSEARCH=atlu0215

TJ


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## midnightmadman29 (Nov 2, 2012)

tjcruiser said:


> That photo link isn't working for some reason. Try this direct link ...
> 
> http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=&FVSEARCH=atlu0215
> 
> TJ


Thanks I see it now.. just not really sure how it works. 
I will have two transformers so this somehow hooks to both and decides which track is getting power?


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

yes. That it is very easy to install and even easyer to work. You will need some plastic rail joiners and a litttle more wire.


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## midnightmadman29 (Nov 2, 2012)

Most of the track I have is new nickel silver but I do have a bunch of old brass from when I was a kid from when my father had a 8x4. Should I just get rid of the brass or is it ok to mix it in some spots?


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

I have a mix. It works well for me. Juat put the brass where you can get to it for cleaning.


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Hope this will help midnight.


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

One of the two cross overs in Nogale's drawing needs to be turned around. If your are running clock wise, you will not be able to get back in to the center track.

Also hook both power packs to the Atlas Selector switch.


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## midnightmadman29 (Nov 2, 2012)

norgale said:


> Hope this will help midnight.


Awesome thank you!

I am still on the fence about doing a big trestle bridge or not. I cant decide what kind of 'theme' I want the display to be yet.... I am from upstate NY near some mountains etc but I now live in Charleston SC where it is flat as a pancake! We have a ton of water of course and a lot of trains with bridges crossing them. I just don't know what I want to do. I don't really think I should mix it up really, right?


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## midnightmadman29 (Nov 2, 2012)

Here there are a lot more industrial places as well which I think would make a nice display too. I once saw a replica of the 'Ravenell' bridge on ebay, which gave me an idea to have that running across part of the display.


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Your building your railroad Midnight. You can have a bridge anywhere you want.
Also Southern makes a good point about the crossovers. If you make that far one a double then it will work either way. That's if you go straight and not have the curve in there. I don't know if the table is up against a wall but try and put the turnouts where you can reach them easily in case there's a derail on it. And yes hook the selector switch to both power paks. I forgot that. Good catch Southern. Pete


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## midnightmadman29 (Nov 2, 2012)

norgale said:


> Your building your railroad Midnight. You can have a bridge anywhere you want.
> Also Southern makes a good point about the crossovers. If you make that far one a double then it will work either way. That's if you go straight and not have the curve in there. I don't know if the table is up against a wall but try and put the turnouts where you can reach them easily in case there's a derail on it. And yes hook the selector switch to both power paks. I forgot that. Good catch Southern. Pete


Thanks. Yes the back and right are against a corner wall.
I know I can make it however I want but I just have it in my head to keep sort of themed to an area... but I guess it doesnt have to be. I also love snow scenes from growing up in NY. I thought about doing the top area of a mountain in snow too. 
One question on the trestle, I was thinking it would be better in the corner because of space around it for building the mountain and whatever is through the valley. Also if its in the spot mentioned in red, I will have all rail yard right in that spot.. thoughts?


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Here's a bridge I built last year for my layout. Just thought it up,not copied fom a real bridge.Didn't look bad after it was installed but I made it too narrow and sometimes a car would hit it and cause untold damage and derailments. Bridges are a dime a dozen and come in every size and shape you can imagine. It's almost impossible to build one that won't look good on your layout. I like building things like this and I use any old scrap wood I can find. Some I cut on a table saw and that works well too. I just can't always be buying everything I want for my railroad so I make a lot of things.Look for plans in old Model Railroader magazines too. Lots of good things there. Pete
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=7310


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

If you make the bridge on a curve you will have to make the bridge curve too if it's more than a couple inches long. Certainly doable but a little more complicated to match the curve of the track. Also if you don't make it too high like a low bridge over a river or such you won't have so much trouble with the grade going up and down. I've made my grades a little too high I'm finding and when the trains come to the top or bottom of the grade the cars come uncoupled because of the grade. It has to be very very gradual at the top and bottom or it will give you lots of trouble. Build it first then run the trains before you tack the track down. That way you can make changes easily as you go along. Once you have the train running perfectly you can tack the track down tight. Pete


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## midnightmadman29 (Nov 2, 2012)

There's actually a really cool looking old train trestle bridge that crosses the Cooper river here from a long long time ago. There is only about 1/4 of it remaining. That gave me a cool idea to do another one like that detached of a switch somewhere just for looks.

Heres a picture of it.


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## Carl (Feb 19, 2012)

That would be a great scratch-build project


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## midnightmadman29 (Nov 2, 2012)

Carl said:


> That would be a great scratch-build project


Leaves a lot of room for error!


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## midnightmadman29 (Nov 2, 2012)

Will I need more then one contact point with each power pack? So the electric is spread even throughout the circuit?


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

You won't NEED that but it's ok to do that if you find places where the train slows for no reason. You'll have a pretty large layout when your finished so maybe that's not a bad idea. Pete


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

It would be a good idea. Adding "power drops" via multiple track connections to a large-gauge wire electrical "bus" is a common practice, and helps to promote evenly distributed power throughout the track.


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## midnightmadman29 (Nov 2, 2012)

Anyone have a good idea for the edge boarder around the layout table to stop trains from hitting the floor? I know I could just use wood but wondering if anyone have used something cheaper or nicer?


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## midnightmadman29 (Nov 2, 2012)

I am getting the track all laid out then I will trace with a pencil and lay my cork down. Is there any other trick to doing this?
Anyone see anything that stands out as bad besides the temp turnouts to combine the loops on the back side?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

midnightmadman29 said:


> Anyone have a good idea for the edge boarder around the layout table to stop trains from hitting the floor? I know I could just use wood but wondering if anyone have used something cheaper or nicer?


Plexiglass is nice, you can see the trains through it, but it keeps them on the table.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

midnightmadman29 said:


> Anyone have a good idea for the edge boarder around the layout table to stop trains from hitting the floor? I know I could just use wood but wondering if anyone have used something cheaper or nicer?


My system doesn't look so pretty, but it's cheap, easy, and works nicely ...

Pipe insulation foam, friction-fit to the edge of the table. You can see it in the photo in this thread/post ...

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?p=137162&postcount=8

TJ


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

midnightmadman29 said:


> Will I need more then one contact point with each power pack? So the electric is spread even throughout the circuit?


No. You will have more fun if you devide each loop in to blocks so that you can trun off that section of track. It is nice to have one train stoped and run another on the some track.


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

midnightmadman29 said:


> There's actually a really cool looking old train trestle bridge that crosses the Cooper river here from a long long time ago.


I don't think that bridge ever crossed the Cooper river. I always thought that it was used to load ships. but It would not be the first time I was wrong.


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## midnightmadman29 (Nov 2, 2012)

Southern said:


> I don't think that bridge ever crossed the Cooper river. I always thought that it was used to load ships. but It would not be the first time I was wrong.


Your probably right. It would have been WAY to low for ships to cross.


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## midnightmadman29 (Nov 2, 2012)

I have been making some great progress. All the cork roadbed is down and I have the outside and most of the inside run of track down. I have a question about my railyard, should I use some kind of cork or a sheet of something under it? Just not sure what to do there.


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

When it comes to a yard where there are a lot of tracks and things a sheet of cork is a lot easier to handle than regular cork roadbed. It puts all the track and buildings ect on the same level and that works out great. You can give the tracks more definition by ballasting them. Pete


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