# Atlas HO Snap Switch replacement



## Voyagr12 (Mar 29, 2017)

I recently built a layout for my kids but eventually realized the Atlas Snap Switches do not play well with my long passenger cars as they keep derailing through a cross over. I am fairly certain it is due to the tightness of those specific switches. They are remote snap switches. I would like to replace with something more like this:
https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Atlas-HO-281-Code-100-Track-Left-4-Mark-IV-T-p/atl-281.htm
or
https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Atlas-HO-Code-100-6-Mark-IV-Right-Turnout-Track-p/atl-284.htm

but would either of those work and would either of those work with the removable Remote Switch machine from the SnapSwitch? 

Basically I want to replace those few Snap Switches with a switch/turnout that plays better with long stock but still use the remote switch machines from the snapswitches?

Thanks a bunch!


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

More than one of us has had poor results from
Atlas turnouts. I ripped out all 20 of my Atlas and
replaced them with Peco Insulfrogs. Derailing
ended.

Unfortunately, the Peco design uses different
geometry and measurements. 

You may find that you'll need do some track realigning
to replace the Atlas Snaps with most any other
turnout.

Don


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Well, with a little work, you can adapt those twin solenoid machines to work with pretty much anyone's turnouts. For my money, though, they're not a very elegant solution, and I'd chuck them in favor of a better performing, under table model. Peco and Rapido make good ones; many people like Tortoise motors. I'm personally partial to the miniature servo-motor system developed by Tam Valley Depot (www.tamvalleydepot.com).

The turnouts themselves are more problematic. No two manufacturers use exactly the same geometry for their turnouts, and even the Atlas Custom Line turnouts you're looking at will require some significant realignment of track to fit.

The biggest problem is that the Snap Switches have a curved diverging leg, duplicating a 15 degree arc of 18" radius curve. Most turnouts, including the Custom Lines, are not interchangeable with them (in fact, the MTS website even has a disclaimer to that effect). "Standard" turnouts have a diverging route that comes straight off the points, at an angle determined by the turnout number (a #4 diverges 1 unit of distance for every 4 forward).

The problem with most passenger cars is that they have long, 6 wheeled trucks that don't play nicely with sharp curves like those found on the Snap Switches (geometrically, the chord determined by the length of the truck is too long to fit across the arc of the curve, forcing the leading outside wheel up and over the rail). While you might be able to tweak those Snap Switches to take your cars, it's going to be a lot of fiddling.

So yes, your best option is to replace the Snap Switches, but I'd do it as part of a significant re-build. If you want reliable operation out of those long passenger cars, I would go with an absolute minimum of 22" radius curves and #6 turnouts.


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## Voyagr12 (Mar 29, 2017)

I will most likely just go with Atlas #6 turnout. only question really was would the switch machines from the SnapSwitches work with the #6. Appears maybe so...so I will give that a shot and go with it for now. Just installed the switches last week so no reason I can pull up a bit of track to work these larger turnouts in.

Thanks a bunch!


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

Definitely go with the #6 over the #4. Your passenger cars will run much better on the #6's.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Voyagr12 said:


> I will most likely just go with Atlas #6 turnout. only question really was would the switch machines from the SnapSwitches work with the #6. Appears maybe so...so I will give that a shot and go with it for now. Just installed the switches last week so no reason I can pull up a bit of track to work these larger turnouts in.
> 
> Thanks a bunch!


Just to make sure we made it clear: the remote twin solenoid units are NOT a drop in replacement on the #6's. You will have to modify the little plastic arm that throws the points.

And, just my personal opinion, I think that's throwing good money after bad. Sure, you already have the solenoids, but there are better options out there, and not too expensive.


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## Voyagr12 (Mar 29, 2017)

> Just to make sure we made it clear: the remote twin solenoid units are NOT a drop in replacement on the #6's. You will have to modify the little plastic arm that throws the points.
> 
> And, just my personal opinion, I think that's throwing good money after bad. Sure, you already have the solenoids, but there are better options out there, and not too expensive


. 

Oh I think I understand what you are saying. I thought it was meant the track was going to need modified which of course isn't an issue. But the plastic arm thing needing revised would be a potential issue because I don't want to break a new switch to use a solenoid from a new snap switch when it isn't a good solution anyway thereby ruining any potential to make it really cool later.  I guess I will order the #6s and see what I have to work with and go from there. Maybe I will just throw it by hand for now. Mostly my two kids will be running trains. I am simply the guy who runs back and forth helping solve issues.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I'm not communicating very well today.

You will have to modify your track to fit the #6 turnouts in, and you will have to modify the twin coil solenoids to get them to work with the new turnouts.


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