# Laying track



## sknight751 (Feb 18, 2013)

I am starting a new layout and want to use all the latest techniques. 

I am using 2" foam board over 1/4" plywood so I can cut into the foam to create topography. 

I am using the black foam roadbed that comes in a roll instead of cork. 

I do not want to nail down the track for two reasons-I don't like the nails and they won't hold in the foam board. 

So to my question, I want to use glue for the roadbed and the track. But, I don't want to use a glue that requires absolute destruction if I need to remove/adjust roadbed or track.

Suggestions?


----------



## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

You're going to have to attach it somehow. My recommendation is to glue it down, but before you do that, test out your track using tacks or nails to temporarily hold it in place. Once you're happy with it, mark the centerline of the track (or both outboard sides) with a sharpie marker, then glue everything down.

I've used both Alene's tacky glue and construction adhesive (make sure to get the kind compatible with the foam)


----------



## joed2323 (Oct 17, 2010)

Scott has good pointers...

Also used the foam roadbed because thats what i could find at the time.

I tried glue/caulk for roadbed, it works good.
But in my opinion i like hot glue better. As long as you have a dual temp gun, put it on lowest setting and you can put down some roadbed like a machjne instead of doing alittle at a time and putting weight on roadbed till the glue dries.

Personal preference really. Do whatever feels right to you.


----------



## Raptorman83 (Feb 8, 2013)

Hot glue works great. you just have to work fast because it sets within seconds. Just dont glue your turnout mechanisms. I learned that the hard way.  if you do need to pull it up it will destroy the roadbed, but you can lay more just as easy. And the hot glue will pick off the track clean.


----------



## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Latex caulking is my choice, easy and quick.
Also if you need to remove either the track or the roadbed you can do so without destroying either allowing you to and reuseing both.


----------



## CircusFreakGritz (Oct 27, 2010)

My layout consists of 2" pink foam, cork "subroadbed" and Atlas flextrack. What I did on my layout was similar to what Scott described above. I tacked the track down in place using T-pins to test that it was where I wanted it, then marked it. After the foam was marked, I removed the track to prepare to glue down the cork.

Since I used the pink 2" foam instead of plywood, I used a hot glue gun to glue down the cork. Just make sure you hold the cork in place and press firmly until the glue dries (within a few seconds). Also, if you use too much glue it will spread to the edge of the cork and you'll have to remove it once it dries with a knife or rotary tool.

Next, I used T-pins to pin the track down where I wanted it (on top of the cork). As I worked my way through the sections of track, I would untack the sections I was about to glue, then spread some plain old Elmer's white glue on the cork, then re-tack the track tightly to the cork. I also tried to spread the glue thin using the T-pins--I used the top of the "T" of the pins to rub the glue in between the ties of the tracks. I then let it set for 1-2 days.

I have had no problems with this approach...it is very easy and cost effective (if you buy glue-gun glue sticks in bulk). The only downside is, if you need to rip up your cork to move it, the glue will probably be stuck to it, making it hard to reuse it elsewhere on your layout.


----------



## Fighterpilot (Mar 16, 2011)

I topped my foam with 1/4" luan plywood. When I wanted to lift my track above the board for a climb up a proposed hill or elevated crossing, all I had to do was cut the 1/4" luan ply on each side of the track, lift it and brace it with a piece of wood. Made it easy to adjust grades and secure then fill beneath. You can see what I did on the first couple of pages of my thread "Bucket List Train". TJ said because of the way I did it, I should be able to make a great club sandwich; but, it worked for me.

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=10161&d=1305933798


----------



## timlange3 (Jan 16, 2013)

Sknight, you can use any glue you want, as long as it does not destroy the material. Just don't use much! You just want to tack it down so it does not move or curl. Set your 'glue applicator' to 'tack down track/roadbed' from 'pull bulldozer' setting.

Depending what you need, a thin line of glue (very thin) or small dabs will do what you want and still allow you to remove/separate parts at a later date.


----------



## sknight751 (Feb 18, 2013)

I used Ailenes tacky glue and it worked great. I have had to remove a section and it comes up nicely when I slide a thin blade under it.


----------



## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

sknight751 said:


> I used Ailenes tacky glue and it worked great. I have had to remove a section and it comes up nicely when I slide a thin blade under it.


Yep - and the glue will peel off the bottom of the ties if you need to re-use/lay that same section of track. Typically you'll have a little residue that will have dried between the ties and doesn't allow the track to sit flat. I simply staple a 60-100 grit piece of sandpaper to a 1x4 block and sand the top surface smooth again.


----------

