# Restoration Project - Senior Project -



## PW_Lionel_Collector (Jul 13, 2009)

Hello Everyone! My school, (Sonora High School), requires everyone to do a "Life Changing Project" for their senior year, so I decided to restore postwar Lionel Gp's. A piece of this project is to get your project "Out to Public", so I have decided to post my progress on this website. Every week, I will update this thread with the new progress. (With pictures and new info). Please comment on anything. If you have any questions on "How I did a certain step", please ask. Also, If anyone has helpful tips, they will be gratefully appreciated!  :appl:

I have one question. If anyone knows how to fix this, please let me know. The Milwaukee Road shell on one side is faded by the sun. Does anyone know how to take the fading out of the shell?  I'm going to try to, lightly sand it, and complete the stripping of the paint. :thumbsup:

*Postwar Lionel 2338 Milwaukee Road
*
















*Postwar Lionel 2328 Burlington Route*

































































































*Disassembling*

























































*Taking Horn Relay Bracket Out To Replace In A Future Date Out*

































*Began The Stripping
*


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## PW_Lionel_Collector (Jul 13, 2009)

Spend Two hours putting theses photos up and I spell Restoration wrong...... :lol_hitting: :knock_teeth_out: :bs:

And I can't change the title...:bs:


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## PW_Lionel_Collector (Jul 13, 2009)

PW_Lionel_Collector said:


> Spend Two hours putting theses photos up and I spell Restoration wrong...... :lol_hitting: :knock_teeth_out: :bs:
> 
> And I can't change the title...:bs:


Never mind about second post, I found out how to change the title....:appl:


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## redwine_p (Nov 5, 2009)

looks like a good start!


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Do you plan to interview people who grew up with these trains?
It would add a history piece to your work.

Are you planning on wheel removal? A puller tool may crack the wheel edge.
I use two pieces of wide blued banding with a groove cut length wise for the axle. Placed over a vise you can punch the wheel out.
The bushings can be replaced with sealed ball bearings. My F-3 was 3/16 by 5/16ths. You probably know if the bushings are bad the worm gear will strip.


Lastly I could not see how the horn relay was wired. Mine never was, and I need a good picture showing where all the wires go on the side of the relay. I am determined to know. 

Nice strip job,
I have a tender that was made from a multi colored plastic sort of like the Partridge Family bus. I would of looked nice stripped.

Thanks


PS The spelling error is unchangeable in the thread titles. I have many.


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

Great project, and you are doing a nice job of it!

Re the sun-bleaching of the locomotive shell---I don't think it's something you can change. The plastic is thin, and the odds are the sunlight penetrated too deeply. How about a new paint job, instead? You can get transfers to replace the lettering, after you paint.


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## Boston&Maine (Dec 19, 2007)

PW_Lionel_Collector said:


> Spend Two hours putting theses photos up and I spell Restoration wrong...... :lol_hitting: :knock_teeth_out: :bs:
> 
> And I can't change the title...:bs:


I fixed it so that it shows on the main O scale page spelled right too


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

Oh, sure!!!! Make him look smart and the rest of us look like dumb azzzzes! *LOL*


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

KIDZ, I guess they stick together. 


Keep up the good work.


From a fellow dummIE.


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

The bad part is, THEY are the only ones who know how to fix anything!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

All that I got to say is.......................................,


:ttiwwop:



But can't can I!:laugh::laugh::laugh:

Did you try a little furniture polish on the Orange?

Or did you think about just giving it a weathered look?


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## PW_Lionel_Collector (Jul 13, 2009)

redwine_p said:


> looks like a good start!


Thanks Redwine!



T-Man said:


> Do you plan to interview people who grew up with these trains?
> It would add a history piece to your work.
> 
> Are you planning on wheel removal? A puller tool may crack the wheel edge.
> ...


Hello T-Man, 
Sorry for the late response. (School takes up basically all day). 

1's Q: I bought theses engines over E-Bay, so I don't know the history of theses engines.

2nd Q: Thanks for the wheel removal tips. From my sight of view, the wheels look to be in perfect condition. (No cracks, Not much wear) All they need is a good cleaning (Clean with alcohol and ethanol). I also blow the dirt out with an air compressor. The wheels will look brand new by the time I'm done. (I'll post pictures)

3rd Q: I'll take a picture of a relay and post it for you.

4th: For stripping plastic shells, I found out oven cleaner works the best. It takes all the dirt and paint off without melting the shell. 

Thanks for Info. Jason

Here's the pictures you asked for, hope they help:
























Reckers said:


> Great project, and you are doing a nice job of it!
> 
> Re the sun-bleaching of the locomotive shell---I don't think it's something you can change. The plastic is thin, and the odds are the sunlight penetrated too deeply. How about a new paint job, instead? You can get transfers to replace the lettering, after you paint.


Hello Reckers, Thanks for the info. The new paint job would work well, but unfortunately my senior project is to restore postwar Lionel trains back to the factory line production. Maybe I'll scrap that shell and get a new one. (Use the old shell for a custom road name).
Thanks Jason



Boston&Maine said:


> I fixed it so that it shows on the main O scale page spelled right too


Thanks Boston&Maine! :appl:



big ed said:


> All that I got to say is.......................................,
> 
> 
> :ttiwwop:
> ...



Hello Big Ed, Do you want more pictures? Lol? I have another 100 plus more photos. I will try the furniture polish on the orange. (Thanks for the tip) Problem about weathering is First, I have no clue how to do it (I have a air brush though, I'll try it one of theses days) Second, unfortunately my senior project is to restore postwar Lionel trains back to the factory line production, so weathering wouldn't be authentic. hwell: :thumbsdown:

Thanks for the info. Jason





Also want to add, Thanks for everyone stopping by and looking at this thread! :thumbsup:

Extra Pictures/Side conversation: Anyone Like Lionel Sd70ACe Heritage series? Here's a couple of pic's!














Lionel Union Pacific Chicago Northwestern 6-28280







Lionel Union Pacific Southern Pacific 6-28281







Lionel Union Pacific Rio Grande 6-28279


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Thanks for the info. I still want to print it out. What manual is that from? That is the best diagram to date.


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## PW_Lionel_Collector (Jul 13, 2009)

T-Man said:


> Thanks for the info. I still want to print it out. What manual is that from? That is the best diagram to date.


The picture of the diagram is from Greenberg's Repair and Operating Manual For Lionel Trains 1945-1969. It's the best repair manual I have ever found.


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## subwayaz (Dec 26, 2009)

Looks like your off to a fantastic start. Keep the updates coming you've got my attention.

I found this site that might help if you get stuck
http://www.drtinkertrains.com/newfeature.htm

http://www.ehow.com/how_2123801_repair-old-lionel-trains.html

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/3595277/repair_antique_lionel_trains_service_vintage_old_lionel_tra/


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Hi Yaz!*

Thanks for the effort. 
DR. Tinker is the Man. I keep forgetting that he has info on his site. 
Your second link was funny. number 6 was to buff the track for a slick surface! I guess friction for an engine is bad.
The last link.The manual "Never to be released again" Has and will.
That statement is a complete turnoff to me as a buyer all it spells is spam to me.
BTW Welcome the the forum.


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## PW_Lionel_Collector (Jul 13, 2009)

subwayaz said:


> Looks like your off to a fantastic start. Keep the updates coming you've got my attention.
> 
> I found this site that might help if you get stuck
> http://www.drtinkertrains.com/newfeature.htm
> ...


Thanks for the info. 

_*I WILL NOT BE ABLE TO UPDATE THIS THREAD UNTIL NEXT WEEKEND DUE TO AWFUL WEATHER/BUSY SCHEDULE. THANKS JASON*_ 2/3/10


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## PW_Lionel_Collector (Jul 13, 2009)

*Updated 2/23/10 - New Senior Train Project Photos*

*[Adding more pictures of current progress (Not the best pictures, but you'll get a idea what I'm doing). Sorry it took so long. It's also a huge pain to upload a lot of these pictures]* :laugh:

*Stripping Milwaukee Road Shell*

























*Stripping Frames*

















*Masking Frames Off*

























*Putting Primer On Shell and Frames*

















*This picture didn't turn out very well...
*
*Painting Shell And Frames*









*I know the paint on the Burlington Shell didn't turn out right. This is due to cold weather. I have sanded it down and it's waiting for this weekend for a touch-up coat of paint.*

















*Please comment if you want. Questions and/or helpful tips are always welcomed! Thanks for looking! 

Hopefully I'll be able to update this thread this weekend also.* hwell:


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

First-rate work, Jason! We're proud of you!


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Looking Good! :thumbsup: 
The oven cleaner does the trick. I have dropped too many pieces using a hook. I go with wire wrapped with a loop. 
I am currently spraying outside in 30 degree weather. No, I don't stay there long. The parts are dryed inside and heated again. Heating everthing is a must. The heat gun is even used when I mix the epoxy.The can I will shake and heat until the coolness goes away. The last steamchest was hot, I think I baked the paint on. Looking back at the gas laws, once you spray the paint, the expansion cools off the item.


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## thainglo (Feb 22, 2010)

What a terrific project idea for your senior year, and thanks for sharing with the group!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

GREAT WORK! Thanks for sharing this project with everyone!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Great pictures!

Nice and clear keep them coming.


When you get all done you can open up a shop on the side and make some $$$$$ off your talent.

Looking good! :thumbsup:

The real test will be in the Numbering and lettering.


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## PW_Lionel_Collector (Jul 13, 2009)

Reckers said:


> First-rate work, Jason! We're proud of you!


Thank You! 



T-Man said:


> Looking Good! :thumbsup:
> The oven cleaner does the trick. I have dropped too many pieces using a hook. I go with wire wrapped with a loop.
> I am currently spraying outside in 30 degree weather. No, I don't stay there long. The parts are dryed inside and heated again. Heating everthing is a must. The heat gun is even used when I mix the epoxy.The can I will shake and heat until the coolness goes away. The last steamchest was hot, I think I baked the paint on. Looking back at the gas laws, once you spray the paint, the expansion cools off the item.


Sounds like your having fun on the chilly East Coast! :laugh:
Yes, oven cleaner works very well if the temperature is above 60 degrees. Wire wraps sound like a great tool to use for painting. For me, I use old metal clothes hangers. Each hanger makes two hooks.



thainglo said:


> What a terrific project idea for your senior year, and thanks for sharing with the group!


Not a problem! I kind of like sharing this project with so many people. It's a great thread where I and many other people can learn and be entertained.
Thanks for looking!



tjcruiser said:


> GREAT WORK! Thanks for sharing this project with everyone!


Ditto from: Not a problem! ... Thanks for looking!



big ed said:


> Great pictures!
> 
> Nice and clear keep them coming.
> 
> ...


The town I live in, it would be impossible to sub-stain a train business. :laugh: Great idea though. Maybe, I'll have a side business or get a job at a hobby store when I'm at college.

PS: Putting lettering and numbering on a engine seems to be very easy me.  Thanks for the comments and looking!

*PW*​


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

PW_Lionel_Collector said:


> Thank You!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Just get some more "junk" and redo them.
and you don't need a big town 
just a place to sell
e bay?

you know what goes for big bucks if you do it right?

weathered O gauge rolling stock.

hold on I will find the link................

edit.................................,

here's a link he's got a couple selling right now.


http://myworld.ebay.com/industrialmodels/


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## PW_Lionel_Collector (Jul 13, 2009)

big ed said:


> Just get some more "junk" and redo them.
> and you don't need a big town
> just a place to sell
> e bay?
> ...


I've done the E-Bay business. I've bought numerous junk 2328 Burlington and 2338 Milwaukee Roads before. I've done about 5 Burlington and 4 Milwaukee Roads. I've made around $100-$150 per engine. It's a great side job, but every engine takes a long time to do. 

Weathered O gauge rolling stock looks to be another great money maker. But a person would have to know how to do weathering well. 

Maybe in my spare time I'll try weathering. Thanks for the idea! :thumbsup:

PW


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## PW_Lionel_Collector (Jul 13, 2009)

Hello Everyone, sorry for the long wait and delay for finishing this thread. I've been busy for the past couple of months with school and all. Hope you enjoy the final pictures.  If you have any questions please ask. Need more pictures of a certain step, please ask, I'll add them.

*Washing Mechanical Parts - With Paint Thinner*
















*Assembling 2328 Burlington Route*
































*Assembling 2338 Milwaukee Road*
















*Putting decals on 2328 Burlington Route.*
























*Finished Products:*
















*2338 Milwaukee Road*
















*2328 Burlington Route*
















*Before/After Pictures:*
View attachment 2946


View attachment 2947


View attachment 2948


View attachment 2949


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

PW,

In today's super-tech world, it's often too easy for kids to think that a "disposable society" is the norm. Not many have an interest, the enthusiasm, or the stick-to-it-ness to get their hands dirty and breathe some new life back into an old-school gizmo.

You, young man, are a very talented exception to that thinking. It is my humble opinion that the lessons learned and exemplified in this little loco restoration project are reflective of things much more significant than "boys and toys", and will serve you very well in your roads through life ahead.

Well done! And if I were offering a project grade, I'd tack a few gold stars onto your well-earned A+.

TJ


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## PW_Lionel_Collector (Jul 13, 2009)

tjcruiser said:


> PW,
> 
> In today's super-tech world, it's often too easy for kids to think that a "disposable society" is the norm. Not many have an interest, the enthusiasm, or the stick-to-it-ness to get their hands dirty and breathe some new life back into an old-school gizmo.
> 
> ...


Thank you Tj for all your kind words. It really means a lot to me. Hopefully I stay with this hobby throughout my life. I really enjoy working on these engines and it provides me hours of excitement. Each one of these engines took around 20hrs each and only around $125.00 (Both engines) which is cheap for two newly restored engines. I have another 2-3 engines to rebuild and I will post those projects up on this forum also. 

Anyways, Thanks for the encouragement,

Jason a.k.a. PW


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I appreciate your posting. My collection could use more diesels. I has been a treat to watch your work. 

After my experience with rolling stock, I would paint the truck sides. That white corrosion will come back. I noticed they are not removable like on the 2333 F-3 so masking the wheel is a must. What's your thoughts?


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

Folks, I believe we have located T-Man's long lost son!:appl:


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## Stillakid (Jan 12, 2010)

*Impressive Work!*

Fantastic Restoration!
A+ on the project and A+ on your sharing of the progress!

Jim


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Reckers said:


> Folks, I believe we have located T-Man's long lost son!:appl:


:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

T-Junior!!!


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Don't scare the poor kid. :laugh:

Though, I'd probably admit to just about anything, to get a better price on an engine.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

You know, T-Man ... you could always adopt us all!

(And then, of course, have your lawyer update that lengthy Model Train Collections clause in your will to include us all as beneficiaries!)


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## imatt88 (Jan 31, 2010)

This is the first time I've seen this thread, and WOW Amazing stuff!!

Jason, First rate resto project..Thanks for sharing!!:thumbsup:

Hope to see more:thumbsup:


Cheers, Ian


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## PW_Lionel_Collector (Jul 13, 2009)

T-Man said:


> I appreciate your posting. My collection could use more diesels. I has been a treat to watch your work.
> 
> After my experience with rolling stock, I would paint the truck sides. That white corrosion will come back. I noticed they are not removable like on the 2333 F-3 so masking the wheel is a must. What's your thoughts?


Hello T-Man,

Personally, I like the white corrosion. It gives the engine more character and more realistic look. I've never thought about removing the white corrosion, and this is the first time I have ever thought about removing it. It really doesn't bother me. If painting them doesn't work, then I would say (If it really bothers you) to go buy another truck, because if painting and sanding them down doesn't work, nothing will.

PW



Reckers said:


> Folks, I believe we have located T-Man's long lost son!:appl:


Hey Reckers,

Very lost son. I life on the western side of the United States and he lives on the Eastern! :laugh:

PW



Stillakid said:


> Fantastic Restoration!
> A+ on the project and A+ on your sharing of the progress!
> 
> Jim


Hello Stillakid,

Thank You for all the kind comments. I appreciate it!

PW



tjcruiser said:


> :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
> 
> T-Junior!!!


Maybe...:laugh:



T-Man said:


> Don't scare the poor kid. :laugh:
> 
> Though, I'd probably admit to just about anything, to get a better price on an engine.


I could buy a junker on E-Bay for around $55-$60 and refurbish the whole thing. Then sell it to you, just for the cost it took me to restore it. It would be guaranteed to run for 10+ yrs w/o maintenance.



tjcruiser said:


> You know, T-Man ... you could always adopt us all!
> 
> (And then, of course, have your lawyer update that lengthy Model Train Collections clause in your will to include us all as beneficiaries!)


Great One!:laugh:



imatt88 said:


> This is the first time I've seen this thread, and WOW Amazing stuff!!
> 
> Jason, First rate resto project..Thanks for sharing!!:thumbsup:
> 
> ...


Hello Imatt88,

Thanks for all the kind words.:thumbsup: This is also the first time talking to you. I will add more restoration projects in the future.

PW


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

They came out great!:thumbsup:
Even though you spelled Burlington wrong.

Made you look?:laugh:

Heres a quote by you when I asked you about weathering......,"unfortunately my senior project is to restore postwar Lionel trains back to the factory line production, so weathering wouldn't be authentic."

If your project was to restore back to "factory line production", I would think it's incomplete with out restoring the trucks. As they came from the factory black. 
They didn't come with a white corroded look.

Professor Ed gives you a B+....... it could have been an A+ if it was restored back to "factory line production". 

Without the trucks being restored your project is incomplete.

(at least that's what my teachers would have told me.)


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Boy, there's some tough teachers around here. Now where's an apple with a worm in it when we need one? :laugh:


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## PW_Lionel_Collector (Jul 13, 2009)

big ed said:


> They came out great!:thumbsup:
> Even though you spelled Burlington wrong.
> 
> Made you look?:laugh:
> ...


Hey ED,

If I spelled Burlington wrong on my engine, I would be freaking out.:laugh:

Yes, I did restore the trains back to factory line production, but the wheels(trucks) are impossible to restore back to normal. Painting them black won't work (Plus that's not original production procedures), so the only other opinion that I would have is, re-anodizing them back to black. So if I had a machine that would anodize metal this task would be no problem.:laugh: Problem is, it's very hard to find a machine that will do that for you, and when you find that machine, it will only be about $2 million plus dollars. If you want to donate this machine to me, I would gladly accept it.:laugh: Plus, I would also need a sand blaster to strip the metal bare.

So therefore, since I don't have an extra $2-3 million laying around :laugh:, I think I deserve an "A". Any other ideas on how to solve this problem?

Thanks For Comments,

PW - Jason


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Hey Jason,

Toss Big Ed one of these ...:laugh:

TJ


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## PW_Lionel_Collector (Jul 13, 2009)

tjcruiser said:


> Hey Jason,
> 
> Toss Big Ed one of these ...:laugh:
> 
> TJ



TJ

That's a great idea! :laugh:

PW - Jason


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

PW_Lionel_Collector said:


> TJ
> 
> That's a great idea! :laugh:
> 
> PW - Jason



Toss me two of them..................more nourishment with the worms. 
mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm good:thumbsup::laugh:

Heck throw in some live goldfish too!


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## PW_Lionel_Collector (Jul 13, 2009)

big ed said:


> Toss me two of them..................more nourishment with the worms.
> mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm good:thumbsup::laugh:
> 
> Heck throw in some live goldfish too!


You must love your protein! I could send you more than two, how about 200-300 of them?:laugh: We have plenty due to the apple orchard on my property. Just let me know, apple season is coming up!

PW


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## imatt88 (Jan 31, 2010)

Jason,

Just reviewing you resto thread...I'm assuming you had to cut wires to pull everything apart?

How did you keep track of where everything goes?

I want to redo my Alco frames, but I'm afraid that if I pull them apart, I'll forget where stuff goes and be stuck with a pile of parts

Where do you get the resto decals from?

Anyway, super job:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Cheers, Ian


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Quote,
"So therefore, since I don't have an extra $2-3 million laying around , I think I deserve an "A". Any other ideas on how to solve this problem?"


OK I will grade you an A-

How about black shoe polish for the trucks applied with a Q-tip?


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

imatt88 said:


> How did you keep track of where everything goes?


Ian,

I'm gonna jump in here with a comment, if I may...

I'm nearly done restoring an old prewar Lionel tinplate steam engine. I was a bit nervous about remembering part locations in the stripdown process. So ... I took the time to make several quick sketches about where things went before (and during) disassembly. And -- IMPORTANTLY -- I made a few notes about the SEQUENCE of disassembly, so that I could reverse the order during the rebuilt. In the case of my steamer, certain parts will only mate to each other properly if you assemble them in a very specific order. Otherwise, you can end up with a part "boxed out" of where it needs to go. And with the tinplate models with their very fragile metal tabs, one doesn't want to go bending and unbending the metal tabs any more than absolutely necessary.

My 2-cents!

TJ


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## imatt88 (Jan 31, 2010)

TJ,

Always feel free to interject:thumbsup:. I still consider myself a newbie with trains...

An disassembly/reassembly sketch is a good idea. I might go that route.

I know with my Marx trains, I have the little metal tabs to deal with as well, and I definately don't want to break them off:laugh:

Thanks,


Cheers, Ian


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## PW_Lionel_Collector (Jul 13, 2009)

imatt88 said:


> Jason,
> 
> Just reviewing you resto thread...I'm assuming you had to cut wires to pull everything apart?
> 
> ...


Hello Ian,

*1st*, I didn't cut any wires to pull both engines apart. I un-soldered and re-solder when I took them apart/put together. The wires you see are the original wires from the 1950's assembly line.

*2nd*, When I first started out refurbishing Lionel engines (About 3 yrs ago) I used a book that showed all the engines disassembled and how to put them back together. The book is called, "*Greenberg's Repair and Operating Manual For Lionel Trains 1945-1969*". Its a very good book for beginners and a great source of information to look up part numbers. I recommend it to anyone that's into refurbishing, or just wants to maintenance postwar engines. I think Greenberg also has a book for prewar Lionel. Now days, I just remember how everything goes. I have a photo memory and I can memorize how everything was placed in a engine. Plus, all the engines during this stage of Lionel (Whether its Steam, Electric, Diesel) are all similar to each other; on how they work. It just takes experience, and once you have done one, the second one will be a lot easier. Present Lionel is very difficult to work on due to all the advanced electronics, and these engines can be difficult to work on, even if your the most experienced Lionel maintenance person.

*3rd*, I recommend you get "Greenberg's Repair and Operating Manual For Lionel Trains 1945-1969". This will show you how to take apart and reassemble the engines. Plus, it will show you if your missing parts and the part numbers.

*4th*, I get my restoration decals at 

http://www.mytrainpartsusa.com/PARTS-DIRECTORY.php

This is a great place to get decals and a great place to get any repro Lionel parts. Mike (owner) list all his parts by lionel numbers so its very easy to find parts needed. To find the part numbers you will probably need the book I recommend.

Here are some more great dealers and all are trustworthy! 

http://www.trainz.com/
http://www.eastcoasttrainparts.com/
http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/
http://www.lioneltrainparts.com/
http://www.hollashtrains.com/Parts.htm

There are many more and too many to list. If you need a specific item please let me know. I can probably find you the best/cheapest website to buy it at.

Thanks for the comments they are greatly appreciated!  

Hope this helps!

Jason - PW

PS: Good Luck with repainting the frames!



big ed said:


> Quote,
> "So therefore, since I don't have an extra $2-3 million laying around , I think I deserve an "A". Any other ideas on how to solve this problem?"
> 
> 
> ...


ED,

Thanks for the "A-" and the shoe polish idea. This might work, and maybe some day I'll try it! I'm currently booked for the next two months due to summer activities, so if I try this it will be late July to early August. I'll let you know if it works!

Thanks - 

Jason - PW





tjcruiser said:


> Ian,
> 
> I'm gonna jump in here with a comment, if I may...
> 
> ...


TJ,

I was the same way when I started restoring postwar Lionel trains. I was afraid I wasn't going to be able to put the engines back together. Luckily, I had the Greenburgs book to help me through the process. 

Jason - PW


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## imatt88 (Jan 31, 2010)

J,

Thanks for the links and advice. I might just have to pick up one of those manuals:thumbsup:

There is one part I could use some help finding...its part 204-32, coupler support assembly.
My dummy unit doesn't have one, and I can't seem to find one,

If you know of any, let me know:thumbsup:

Thanks, 

Cheers, Ian


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