# Finally!!



## hunterwj (Dec 16, 2017)

Gentlemen Railroaders,
I started back modeling in 2017 and my N scale DC PRR Loyalhanna Division layout
is finally running! All that could go wrong has. All those things you guys say to not do, I've
done. My layout is in my small shop and I built it into a corner with no clearance. Over the
last few years I've even hung from above to fix track problems. The last three weeks have
been a DC challenge on the back corner: with service yard , turn table, round house, and industries.
My layout represents my memory of the 40's and 50's in Western PA. At 77 my vision and
memory at times can be foggy. Growing up I rode K4's around Horseshoe Curve and crossed
the street in Latrobe to board the Ligoneer Valley Rail Road out to the park. During the 50's I lived beside the PRR and B&O above Baltimore and stupidly even walked a few trestles. 
I.ve taken a lot of photos showing the progress up to now and how some ideas changed over
time. I'll try to send some photos soon. 
Thanks for listening.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

hunterwj said:


> Gentlemen Railroaders,
> I started back modeling in 2017 and my N scale DC PRR Loyalhanna Division layout
> is finally running! All that could go wrong has. All those things you guys say to not do, I've
> done. My layout is in my small shop and I built it into a corner with no clearance. Over the
> ...


OK, you walked a few trestles.
It doesn't get exciting until you have to run.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

Or have to run _and_ jump off of one...


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## hunterwj (Dec 16, 2017)

MichaelE said:


> Or have to run _and_ jump off of one...


It was 1955 on the main line B&O and a trestle high above the Gunpowder River. Glad I didn't
have to jump to the rocks below.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

hunterwj said:


> Gentlemen Railroaders,
> I started back modeling in 2017 and my N scale DC PRR Loyalhanna Division layout
> is finally running! All that could go wrong has. All those things you guys say to not do, I've
> done. My layout is in my small shop and I built it into a corner with no clearance. Over the
> ...


hunterwi;

Congratulations on getting your layout running! It sounds like an interesting layout. Looking forward to seeing your photos.
Hindsight is 20-20 they say. However, since your layout is already built into an inaccessible corner, have you considered one of those "lean-way-over" work stands? Micro Mark sells them. www.micromark.com They call it a "Topside creeper step ladder support system." Its their item # 83876.
You might want to use the link to look at it. Its under hobby supplies -- special tools.
However, sit down for the price $ 279.95! Probably plus a hefty shipping charge.  
You could probably make something similar, out of wood or metal, for a lot less.

Traction Fan 🙂


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## hunterwj (Dec 16, 2017)

traction fan said:


> hunterwi;
> 
> Congratulations on getting your layout running! It sounds like an interesting layout. Looking forward to seeing your photos.
> Hindsight is 20-20 they say. However, since your layout is already built into an inaccessible corner, have you considered one of those "lean-way-over" work stands? Micro Mark sells them. www.micromark.com They call it a "Topside creeper step ladder support system." Its their item # 83876.
> ...





traction fan said:


> hunterwi;
> 
> Congratulations on getting your layout running! It sounds like an interesting layout. Looking forward to seeing your photos.
> Hindsight is 20-20 they say. However, since your layout is already built into an inaccessible corner, have you considered one of those "lean-way-over" work stands? Micro Mark sells them. www.micromark.com They call it a "Topside creeper step ladder support system." Its their item # 83876.
> ...


I saw the lean-way-over ladder and than I saw the price! I decided to build one out of an old 
medal step ladder and add floor rails. I changed my mind and used the step ladder as a support for an extension ;ladder that ran across the layout to a wall joist. I put pillows on the extension ladder and set the height at about one foot above the mountain tops on the layout and climbed aboard with all the necessary tools lying face down. I did manage to fix the track problem and everything held together without me falling and destroying my layout! I do not
recommend trying this and if the problem recurs I will leave that section of the PRR Loyalhanna
Devision dead.
held together without me falling on to the layout


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## hunterwj (Dec 16, 2017)

hunterwj said:


> I saw the lean-way-over ladder and than I saw the price! I decided to build one out of an old
> medal step ladder and add floor rails. I changed my mind and used the step ladder as a support for an extension ;ladder that ran across the layout to a wall joist. I put pillows on the extension ladder and set the height at about one foot above the mountain tops on the layout and climbed aboard with all the necessary tools lying face down. I did manage to fix the track problem and everything held together without me falling and destroying my layout! I do not
> recommend trying this and if the problem recurs I will leave that section of the PRR Loyalhanna
> Devision dead.
> held together without me falling on to the layout


Im having a devil of a time getting my photos from my camera to my laptop and hopefully I'll
figure it out soon and I can post them!


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

hunterwj, may take a special cable to go from camera connector to USB on the computer. If the camera uses micro SD, SD or CF cards (Nikon likes CF cards), you will need to find a reader that plugs into your usb port. Hopefully its not that special card Sony tried to foist off to us!


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

traction fan said:


> hunterwi;
> 
> Congratulations on getting your layout running! It sounds like an interesting layout. Looking forward to seeing your photos.
> Hindsight is 20-20 they say. However, since your layout is already built into an inaccessible corner, have you considered one of those "lean-way-over" work stands? Micro Mark sells them. www.micromark.com They call it a "Topside creeper step ladder support system." Its their item # 83876.
> ...


That's still cheaper than my least expensive locomotive. That would have came in handy for laying the third rail for my Swiss line on the back side of the layout.


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## hunterwj (Dec 16, 2017)

Lemonhawk said:


> hunterwj, may take a special cable to go from camera connector to USB on the computer. If the camera uses micro SD, SD or CF cards (Nikon likes CF cards), you will need to find a reader that plugs into your usb port. Hopefully its not that special card Sony tried to foist off to us!


Thanks for the advice. I'll hopefully get the photos down loaded soon.


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## hunterwj (Dec 16, 2017)

I have managed to download some recent photos of my layout: PRR Loyalhanna Division. My layout represents a "mythical" steel town in Western PA during the 1940-50's called Westmorland. The layout resides in my small outside
workshop on a 6'6"x5'9" plywood base supported by several sturdy 2x6" shop benches and wall joists. I used N scale
Atlas Code 80 snap track and flex track with both Atlas & Peco #4-6 turnouts. The layout uses DC current with 3 MRC
Tech II dual base 2800 transformers, and has numerous tripod switches operating many track blocks. My photos are
"OK" and I hope to post a video at a later date.
Lately as "CEO" of my RR I am thinking about or planning to add a thru-the-wall extension into an adjacent lawn
equipment room in my workshop???


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## Gramps (Feb 28, 2016)

Nice looking layout.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

hunterwj said:


> I have managed to download some recent photos of my layout: PRR Loyalhanna Division. My layout represents a "mythical" steel town in Western PA during the 1940-50's called Westmorland. The layout resides in my small outside
> workshop on a 6'6"x5'9" plywood base supported by several sturdy 2x6" shop benches and wall joists. I used N scale
> Atlas Code 80 snap track and flex track with both Atlas & Peco #4-6 turnouts. The layout uses DC current with 3 MRC
> Tech II dual base 2800 transformers, and has numerous tripod switches operating many track blocks. My photos are
> ...



hunterwi;

Your layout looks good. Glad you could post these photos. I noticed some nice looking 50s automobiles on your layout. May I ask where you got them? I need a bunch of vintage N-scale autos for my layout and I'm having problems finding any. Everything available seems to be too modern, too big, or too expensive, or some combination of the three. 

Traction Fan


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

Very nice job. I love the scenery and everything there looks like it belongs.


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## hunterwj (Dec 16, 2017)

traction fan said:


> hunterwi;
> 
> Your layout looks good. Glad you could post these photos. I noticed some nice looking 50s automobiles on your layout. May I ask where you got them? I need a bunch of vintage N-scale autos for my layout and I'm having problems finding any. Everything available seems to be too modern, too big, or too expensive, or some combination of the three.
> 
> Traction Fan


Traction Fan
I have found some at both Woodland Scenics and Classic Metal Works but they are expensive. I mainly search on Ebay in N scale. The 1930-40-50's I've found in very inexpensive acrylic cars that require painting, but I can't remember the company. It helps to have lived during those times to identify those cars. On my layout I draw the line at 1957. I'm still looking for a black 49 Ford coupe.


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## hunterwj (Dec 16, 2017)

Gramps said:


> Nice looking layout.


Gramps
Thanks for the compliment. The older we get the modeling gets a lot harder. From another post I also got my booster shot today.


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## hunterwj (Dec 16, 2017)

MichaelE said:


> Very nice job. I love the scenery and everything there looks like it belongs.


MichaelE
If I can find my early photos I'll try to post before and after shots. I'm still moving structures
and changing scenery.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

hunterwj said:


> Traction Fan
> I have found some at both Woodland Scenics and Classic Metal Works but they are expensive. I mainly search on Ebay in N scale. The 1930-40-50's I've found in very inexpensive acrylic cars that require painting, but I can't remember the company. It helps to have lived during those times to identify those cars. On my layout I draw the line at 1957. I'm still looking for a black 49 Ford coupe.


hunterwj;

Yes; I suspected some of them were the Woodland Scenics very expensive type. They look great, but I need dozens of autos for my "City of Seattle" section of my layout. (See photos) At $13-$50-$100 each, I can't afford them. I also have some of the cast resin vehicles, and some cast metal ones from GHQ. Most of the latter are construction, or farm, vehicles, which is fine, but what I need a lot more of is passenger cars. Unfortunately, many of the manufactures of these seem to have disappeared. I have checked online by googling "N-scale automobiles." What I found was the basis for my "Too big, Too modern, or too expensive " comment. I have, reluctantly, started making my own cars from plexiglass, and the first one looks OK. Not up to the Woodland scenics cars, but good enough. They cost no money, since I already had the plexiglass, but its a lot of work to cut, shape, and carve, a car from a lump of plastic, so again the problem is sheer numbers. Oh well. Its supposed to be a pastime.  

Thanks for your response;

Traction Fan 🙂


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## hunterwj (Dec 16, 2017)

traction fan said:


> hunterwj;
> 
> Yes; I suspected some of them were the Woodland Scenics very expensive type. They look great, but I need dozens of autos for my "City of Seattle" section of my layout. (See photos) At $13-$50-$100 each, I can't afford them. I also have some of the cast resin vehicles, and some cast metal ones from GHQ. Most of the latter are construction, or farm, vehicles, which is fine, but what I need a lot more of is passenger cars. Unfortunately, many of the manufactures of these seem to have disappeared. I have checked online by googling "N-scale automobiles." What I found was the basis for my "Too big, Too modern, or too expensive " comment. I have, reluctantly, started making my own cars from plexiglass, and the first one looks OK. Not up to the Woodland scenics cars, but good enough. They cost no money, since I already had the plexiglass, but its a lot of work to cut, shape, and carve, a car from a lump of plastic, so again the problem is sheer numbers. Oh well. Its supposed to be a pastime.
> 
> ...


Traction Fan
Here's two dealers that are economical: ricisrailroom His resin cars and trucks require painting & glueing the wheels on. I got a bunch of them from the 40's and 5o's that took me a while to get around to. The second dealer is: N Scale Bruce Richardson's Cars A little more
expensive than number one. I found them on Ebay. Hope this helps.


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## hunterwj (Dec 16, 2017)

hunterwj said:


> Traction Fan
> Here's two dealers that are economical: ricisrailroom His resin cars and trucks require painting & glueing the wheels on. I got a bunch of them from the 40's and 5o's that took me a while to get around to. The second dealer is: N Scale Bruce Richardson's Cars A little more
> expensive than number one. I found them on Ebay. Hope this helps.


Opps , thats ricosrailroom


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## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

Sounds like an opportunity for someone to 3D print some cars from that era!


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

hunterwj said:


> Traction Fan
> Here's two dealers that are economical: ricisrailroom His resin cars and trucks require painting & glueing the wheels on. I got a bunch of them from the 40's and 5o's that took me a while to get around to. The second dealer is: N Scale Bruce Richardson's Cars A little more
> expensive than number one. I found them on Ebay. Hope this helps.


hunterwj;

Thank you very much for this info.

Traction Fan 😊


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## hunterwj (Dec 16, 2017)

traction fan said:


> hunterwj;
> 
> Thank you very much for this info.
> 
> Traction Fan 😊


 Finally my laptop is sorta working again after no internet service every time it rains!! In the past month or so I've added another 2x4' section to my N scale PRR Loyalhanna Division layout. The new section will include an extension of the river with trestles and a large freight yard with more mountains and tunnels. All was going well until my river sprung an overnight leak. Sometimes no matter how hard you try it still goes wrong! What a mess! $$ down the drain, but I think I have the water leak fixed. 
Since my last report I've added a PRR B6 slope back switcher to my collection of older non-working switchers. The new engine is a a Bachmann 0-6-0 and I was hesitant to get it, but after my positive experience with my Bachmann K4's I went ahead. It's a great little engine, but
I'm going to have to make some changes to it's details. I've studied my PRR photo books and not found any photos that fit Bachmann's model. The changes I'll make will be to the boiler, but they'll have to wait till I get further along on the freight yard. My camera still works so I'll send
some photos soon .... I hope.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

Was the river leaking water or resin? Neither is good! But if water, I would vote for elimination and replacement with something else.


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## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

I agree with Lemonhawk. Get rid of the water and replace it with beer. I always wanted a river of beer. 🤣


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## hunterwj (Dec 16, 2017)

Lemonhawk said:


> Was the river leaking water or resin? Neither is good! But if water, I would vote for elimination and replacement with something else.


Sorry about the confusion; it's not water but most certainly resin. At age 77 I sometimes
can't remember all the words! I couldn't even remember Bachmann or was it something
else??


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## hunterwj (Dec 16, 2017)

JeffHurl said:


> I agree with Lemonhawk. Get rid of the water and replace it with beer. I always wanted a river of beer. 🤣


I like the beer idea. Make it Draft !


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

traction fan said:


> hunterwj;
> 
> Yes; I suspected some of them were the Woodland Scenics very expensive type. They look great, but I need dozens of autos for my "City of Seattle" section of my layout. (See photos) At $13-$50-$100 each, I can't afford them. I also have some of the cast resin vehicles, and some cast metal ones from GHQ. Most of the latter are construction, or farm, vehicles, which is fine, but what I need a lot more of is passenger cars. Unfortunately, many of the manufactures of these seem to have disappeared. I have checked online by googling "N-scale automobiles." What I found was the basis for my "Too big, Too modern, or too expensive " comment. I have, reluctantly, started making my own cars from plexiglass, and the first one looks OK. Not up to the Woodland scenics cars, but good enough. They cost no money, since I already had the plexiglass, but its a lot of work to cut, shape, and carve, a car from a lump of plastic, so again the problem is sheer numbers. Oh well. Its supposed to be a pastime.
> 
> ...


Use that first one and make a mold, then you can use your choice of resin to reproduce them quickly. For your purpose I would think you could get away with a good number of the same model using different color combos, weathering, etc. 

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

Water is easy to deal with, you just get rid of it, Resin can easily be a worse problem. I helped my brother apply fiberglass to his boat. A little extra drops here and there and it becomes a real pain to smooth out and sand once its hard! The resin may have plugged its own leak, but still its a mess. My layout is over carpet, luckily none of my layouts have ever made it to the scenery stage, but it would be a nightmare to have the resin drip into the carpet! Wish I could help you clean up the mess!


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## Steve Rothstein (Jan 1, 2021)

And if you want to keep it scale, here is your prototypical beer river: Hiker discovers alcoholic stream in Hawaii


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## hunterwj (Dec 16, 2017)

Lemonhawk said:


> Water is easy to deal with, you just get rid of it, Resin can easily be a worse problem. I helped my brother apply fiberglass to his boat. A little extra drops here and there and it becomes a real pain to smooth out and sand once its hard! The resin may have plugged its own leak, but still its a mess. My layout is over carpet, luckily none of my layouts have ever made it to the scenery stage, but it would be a nightmare to have the resin drip into the carpet! Wish I could help you clean up the mess!


My resin leak did get into some of my towel side hangings and dried to a hard mass. I did get the
area that caused the leak fixed today and am ready to pour more resin when it arrives later this
week. If you decide to add scenery to your layout and add a pond, etc. make sure it is well
sealed


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## hunterwj (Dec 16, 2017)

It's been a while since being on line; a very long while, but my wifi is actually working. During this time I've added a lot to my layout


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## Chops (Dec 6, 2018)

So, 2nd Ave. has a bit of a dip in it, which reminds me of either Pittsburg or Seatlle, cities with a lot of geography involved, is that intentional or otherwise? Is that cloverleaf destined to be an N scale trolley line?


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

Chops said:


> So, 2nd Ave. has a bit of a dip in it, which reminds me of either Pittsburg or Seattle, cities with a lot of geography involved, is that intentional or otherwise? Is that cloverleaf destined to be an N scale trolley line?


Chops;

"Bit of a dip" is putting it mildly! 😄 It is unintentional, and won't stay that way. The gray sections holding 2nd Ave. in my model "Seattle" are lightweight lift-off affairs. They conceal a staging yard. Yes, the real Seattle is quite hilly, and has lots of rail underpasses & short tunnels beneath the downtown streets. All very handy for modeling.
Yes, the track in the brick center of the streets is a trolley line. This was another prototype feature of Seattle in the 1920s era I'm modeling.

Traction Fan 🙂


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## Chops (Dec 6, 2018)

I forgot to ask, are those fine looking buildings scratchbuilt? I don't recollect seeing them out on the market. Two favorites are the Union Station and the cathedral, both of which give me a little jolt when I looked at them. I got out to Seattle for the first time two years ago- a splendid city, reminded me of Paris, what with its tree lined streets and outdoor cafes. Yes, also noticed other things, less than splendid, but still did not hide what a beautiful city on the bay she is/was.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

Chops said:


> I forgot to ask, are those fine looking buildings scratchbuilt? I don't recollect seeing them out on the market. Two favorites are the Union Station and the cathedral, both of which give me a little jolt when I looked at them. I got out to Seattle for the first time two years ago- a splendid city, reminded me of Paris, what with its tree lined streets and outdoor cafes. Yes, also noticed other things, less than splendid, but still did not hide what a beautiful city on the bay she is/was.


Chops;

Yes, some of the buildings in my Seattle scene are scratchbuilt. I don't have any "cathedral" on my layout. I think you may be referring to My model of King Street Station, which has a distinctive tall clock tower. Union Station is my centerpiece signature structure. It's 90% of scale size and occupies much of the 4' x 3' "Downtown Seattle" section of my layout.
My N-scale model is about the size of a bread box.
There are no commercial models of either of Seattle's two beautiful rail stations, or anything even close, so since I wanted them, both stations, and the Sears building, had to be scratchbuilt.

Seattle is a great prototype location for the passenger train fan, like me. 
Seattle is unique in having two large, ornate, railroad stations right across the street from each other. King Street Station once hosted passenger trains of the Northern Pacific, and Great Northern. Union Station was owned & operated by the Union Pacific, and the Milwaukee Road was a tenant. The Milwaukee Road is my favorite because of their electric locomotives, (hence "Traction Fan") however, I can run famous passenger trains from all four railroads.
One other notable scratchbuilt structure on my layout is the Sears Roebuck mail order headquarters building. This block-long, seven story tall, brick structure is a scratchbuilt, low-relief/flat. With the demise of Sears, the building now houses offices of Starbucks.

Both railroad stations are still there today. Each has been carefully restored, and placed on the national registry of historic places. King Street station is still in use by Amtrak, & the "Sounder" local commuter trains. If you get back to Seattle, you might want to visit the stations. In the meantime, here's a few photos. The last four were taken at the real station on a research trip. The very last photo shows King Street Station, taken from just outside the side door of Union Station, so you can see how close they are.


Traction Fan 🙂


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