# Another day, another question..........



## Big_Steve (Feb 21, 2016)

Okay. I'm using Kato Unitrack. I'd like to install my first turnout. I'll be using it to switch a viaduct out of the circuit, to keep the train running in an oval. Where I would like to install the switch is a section where there is a long straightaway, both tracks perfectly parallel, 3 1/4 inches apart center to center. Questions:

1) Kato sells a number 4 and a number 6 turnout. Which do I need, and what's the difference?

2) The unitrack pieces are 1 inch wide including the ballast. These sections are 3 1/4 inches apart center of each piece to center. Or 2 1/4 inches apart at the edge of each ballast. Does that spacing work?

Thanks.


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## Dusty019 (Mar 13, 2016)

Big_Steve said:


> 1) Kato sells a number 4 and a number 6 turnout. Which do I need, and what's the difference?


The higher the number, the shallower degree of turnout. The number is a ratio of point width to length. There was a great post with a link to an article in this forum that breaks it down. I can't seem to find it at the moment.

The switch size is your decision for what you want to do.




Big_Steve said:


> 2) The unitrack pieces are 1 inch wide including the ballast. These sections are 3 1/4 inches apart center of each piece to center. Or 2 1/4 inches apart at the edge of each ballast. Does that spacing work?


3 1/4 inches is a lot of space between two parallel tracks. 
This link is from kato, and give you a good visual.
http://www.katousa.com/cgi-bin/dl/dl.pl?dl.mif,Ntrack.pdf
There are two basic spacings that kato uses in its track. narrow (1.3") and wide (2.6").

Kato makes a double track crossover. http://www.katousa.com/images/unitrack/20-230.jpg
this might give you a better visual of what you want to do, or an option to incorporate.


Here are two examples with either turnout. possibilities are endless. If you want a larger space between parallel tracks, add a straight piece between the switch and the turn. or use a larger radius curve, etc..


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

This is the problem when using sectional track, you are are limited to those they offer. Kato Unitrack is also very expensive. If you haven't bought too much of it you'd do well to consider switching to a brand that makes flex track.


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## Big_Steve (Feb 21, 2016)

Thanks Dusty, that helped alot. Even though I had that diagram, it just didn't "click" for this newbie until your post. Many thanks. 

As Cycleops mentioned, the unitrack is on some levels becoming a pain. But on the other hand, I already have a lot of it, and love the way it works, and my train never derails. Something that used to happen all the time with my old HO set 20 years ago. So, I'm going to stick with it for now.


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## Big_Steve (Feb 21, 2016)

I'm starting to find that out. I have a lot of Kato track now, so I'm sticking with it. Part of the reason is that I have no desire to be laying roadbed and ballast. With every convenience in life, comes tradeoffs of course. I'm going to finish this layout with Kato, and take what I've learned into the next one.



Cycleops said:


> This is the problem when using sectional track, you are are limited to those they offer. Kato Unitrack is also very expensive. If you haven't bought too much of it you'd do well to consider switching to a brand that makes flex track.


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## powersteamguy1790 (Mar 26, 2012)

Big_Steve said:


> Okay. I'm using Kato Unitrack. I'd like to install my first turnout. I'll be using it to switch a viaduct out of the circuit, to keep the train running in an oval. Where I would like to install the switch is a section where there is a long straightaway, both tracks perfectly parallel, 3 1/4 inches apart center to center. Questions:
> 
> 1) Kato sells a number 4 and a number 6 turnout. Which do I need, and what's the difference?
> 
> ...


Steve: 

Use the #6 switch. This switch operates flawlessly. The #4 switch is problematic because the points have to be adjusted carefully to prevent derailments. This is a very common problem with the #4 switch.

I've been using Unitrack on two very large layouts since 2000. The "new" JJJ&E which is an around the room layout in a room 12'x21' has been fully operational for almost eight years. I have over 50 switches on the layout and all are # 6 switches and four double crossovers.

Have fun with it.....


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## Big_Steve (Feb 21, 2016)

Thanks, #6 it is. My bench is 6 x 4. I started with the M1, then added V-9 only because I got a great deal on it. I bought the V-2 a few days later. I'm able to get all three to work on my bench, although I had to buy a few pieces of tack, including the shorty-short straight pieces. Not crazy about how it looks, but I don't have the advantage of a lot of room either. I'm going to continue futzing with it before I make everything permanent. That's a plus to Kato. I can move the pieces around easily without having to mess with roadbed and all.

By the way, have you heard of a way to cobble together unitrack and flex track?




powersteamguy1790 said:


> Steve:
> 
> Use the #6 switch. This switch operates flawlessly. The #4 switch is problematic because the points have to be adjusted carefully to prevent derailments. This is a very common problem with the #4 switch.
> 
> ...


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## Dusty019 (Mar 13, 2016)

I've never done it, but I found this on youtube:

```
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXXLdEv_dqY
```


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## powersteamguy1790 (Mar 26, 2012)

Big_Steve said:


> By the way, have you heard of a way to cobble together unitrack and flex track?


Steve:

Peco code 80/55 mates with Unitrack. I used it in my switching yard near the turntable area and on some sidings adjacent to the mainline track.





























Have fun with it........


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## Dusty019 (Mar 13, 2016)

Powersteamguy1790, those are some awesome pics. Did you use a ramp at the connection from Peco to Unitrack to support the raised end?


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## Big_Steve (Feb 21, 2016)

Thanks, interesting idea. 



Dusty019 said:


> I've never done it, but I found this on youtube:
> 
> ```
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXXLdEv_dqY
> ```


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## powersteamguy1790 (Mar 26, 2012)

Dusty019 said:


> Powersteamguy1790, those are some awesome pics. Did you use a ramp at the connection from Peco to Unitrack to support the raised end?


Thanks Dusty. I used some plastic strips under the ties to gradually raise the height of the Peco Code 80/55 to get to the height of the Unitrack. You can use Unitrack rail joiners to mate the Peco code 80/55 flex track to the Unitrack.

Have fun with it......


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## Big_Steve (Feb 21, 2016)

I tried this yesterday. I was able to get rid of a funky S curve I was using to get some track lined up. It looks good from a few feet away, but terrible close up. I think I'm going to be covering that area with a tunnel anyway, so nothing lost.




Dusty019 said:


> I've never done it, but I found this on youtube:
> 
> ```
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXXLdEv_dqY
> ```


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