# Modding Kato Unitrack Truss for Code 55



## Overkast

*Exciting new project! *After much debate about which truss bridge kit to go across my 3% grade river valley crossing, I decided to try my hand at modding 2 N-Scale Kato Unitrack single track bridges. First one just came today!










I contemplated some scratch-build kits, but I read mixed reviews either regarding stability issues or too many parts = messy assembly, etc. The Unitrack bridges are built solid, so I figured go with what's already been done well and just mod it for my needs.

Now that I've nearly finished the valley road, I really need to get my plans in gear for these bridges. So I bought a few abutments and the truss bridges so I can finally start getting some hard measurements in place for the bridges.

It will be interesting to see what I can come up with to get the Code 55 rail working with the Kato bridges, since the Unitrack is a proprietary (thick) rail height. It's either going to be a matter of creating a flush connection between the two different coded rails, or pulling out the Unitrack rails completely and slip in some Code 55's through the whole bridge. 

Will keep you posted!


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## Overkast

Welp, already pondering my first challenge. Here's a glance illustrating the differences in rail heights I am facing with this mod:










The Unitrack rail has an extremely tall head on the rail, and as would be expected from a prototypical standpoint, the guard rail is a bit shorter in overall height. If I were to decide to remove the Unitrack rail from the structures completely and run Code 55 in it's place, I would be presented with the odd scenario of a taller guard rail and shorter rail height. Which would not bother me from a prototypical standpoint, as long as this anomaly doesn't interfere with the wheels / axles and cause derailments of the train cars.

Pulling out / replacing the rails seems like the easiest solution right now. If I decided to connect the 2 codes using rail joiners, I would have a scenario that looks like this:










Which means I would either have to file down the Unitrack to a gradual slope until it meets flush with Code 55, or I figure out how to elevate the Code 55 to get flush with the top of Unitrack.

Fun!


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## Cycleops

Wouldn't it be easier to try and remove the Unitrack from the bridge and lay the code55 instead?


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## Overkast

Cycleops said:


> Wouldn't it be easier to try and remove the Unitrack from the bridge and lay the code55 instead?


Yes it would - my only concern is the guard rail being taller than the Code 55 in that case. Though I'm not concerned with prototyping, I just need to test a set of wheels to make sure the flange / axles aren't affected by this anomaly.


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## Overkast

Overkast said:


> Yes it would - my only concern is the guard rail being taller than the Code 55 in that case. Though I'm not concerned with prototyping, I just need to test a set of wheels to make sure the flange / axles aren't affected by this anomaly.


Well I did it and you were right Cycleops, I just pulled the Unitrack out and slipped the Code 55 in... tested it with a train car and no interference from the guard rail on the wheels. Looks like I'll be good to go! I also like this approach better because it allows one smooth rail all the way through the entire 2 truss sections as well (instead of having to rely on a the clunky Unitrack rail joiners in the middle).


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## Lemonhawk

If your worried about the guard rail, you could just remove it. Its not a realist looking anyway. I wonder if its there for strength?


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## Overkast

Lemonhawk said:


> If your worried about the guard rail, you could just remove it. Its not a realist looking anyway. I wonder if its there for strength?


Actually I can't remove it, it's part of the plastic mold of the platform:









But that's okay, because it really doesn't look that bad to me anyway. I think I can live with it.

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## Lemonhawk

It appears to be a strengthening member, so you stuck with it. You might file the angled end points down to prevent a coupler from snag it. You could sand the guard down a little but it does look like its the bridge strength member.


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## Overkast

Lemonhawk said:


> You might file the angled end points down to prevent a coupler from snag it.


That's a real good idea Lemonhawk, thanks... I'm probably going to do this!



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## traction fan

*Another way, or two.*



Overkast said:


> Actually I can't remove it, it's part of the plastic mold of the platform:
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> But that's okay, because it really doesn't look that bad to me anyway. I think I can live with it.
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> Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


 Overkast;

You can have it all. Micro Engineering makes bridge track with code55 running rails, and code 40 guard rails. You can also buy the rails separate IF you have a hobby shop that stocks them. I do. It's Reed's Hobby shop, in La Mesa, Calif. www.reedshobbies.com If one orders from Micro Engineering directly, the minimum quantity is 66 pieces of rail! A tad more than you would need!:laugh:

Traction Fan


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## Overkast

Hey traction fan. I actually do have some ME bridge track because I'm building some scratch deck plate girders. But the Kato truss uses proprietary rail-holder slides that would be more advantageous to use (in terms of rail security) rather than cut them apart to allow space for the ME bridge track to get through flush:









Oh yeah, I just completed rust-painting my bridge as well


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## Overkast

traction fan said:


> Overkast;
> 
> You can have it all. Micro Engineering makes bridge track with code55 running rails, and code 40 guard rails. You can also buy the rails separate IF you have a hobby shop that stocks them. I do. It's Reed's Hobby shop, in La Mesa, Calif. www.reeds-hobbies.com If one orders from Micro Engineering directly, the minimum quantity is 66 pieces of rail! A tad more than you would need!:laugh:
> 
> Traction Fan


Traction fan, I'm now giving this a second thought / consideration... After revisiting some of my truss bridge pictures, the ME bridge track certainly is more prototypical of the tie configuration vs. what comes with the Kato bridge:









Perhaps I might try to get the ME bridge track to work on this truss set after all...

I just did a rough test and looks like if I stack two 0.015 styrene strips + one 0.060 strip I can match the height of the rail holder "bumps" and make a flush beam height for the ME bridge track to sit on and glue to:


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## Lemonhawk

So the black plastic piece connects to the bridge via those little tabs? What you want to do now is use some styrene strips to build up the girder on the actual bridge so that you can put ME bridge track down will certainly make for a better looking bridge! It gets rid of that obnoxious tall black guard rail that really does look out of place. You could glue the strips to the bridge track then you could probably get away with not gluing this assemble to the bridge truss, if the truss by its self it strong enough. It certainly should be! You will have to decide if its easier to build up the truss girder and end plates vs grinding down the end plates. I think either way you'll have a better looking bridge. Walters (and others) have "bridge track" just not sure about code 55. Also http://www.shop.cvmw.com/72ftLongBridgeTies-2-1903-2.htm has just the bridge ties and you can use your own rail.


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## Overkast

Lemonhawk said:


> So the black plastic piece connects to the bridge via those little tabs?


Actually the black plastic piece connects to the bridge via a screw and screw hole in the center of the pieces. Those end tabs guide / feed the rail into the smaller rail holders on the black piece (when it's in place) 



Lemonhawk said:


> What you want to do now is use some styrene strips to build up the girder on the actual bridge so that you can put ME bridge track down will certainly make for a better looking bridge!... You could glue the strips to the bridge track then you could probably get away with not gluing this assemble to the bridge truss, if the truss by its self it strong enough. It certainly should be!


Completely agree and was thinking exactly the same thing! My plan is to build up an extended rectangular girder frame to the height of those end tabs, and put 2 ends and a middle cross beam (for structural stability), and the screw can go directly into the middle crossbeam and hold the whole frame in place. So the ME bridge track can be glued to the new "removable" frame, but the entire frame and track is still removable from the truss bridge using the screws. 



Lemonhawk said:


> You will have to decide if its easier to build up the truss girder and end plates vs grinding down the end plates.


Most definitely to build it up. I cannot remove the upper truss beams on the bridges so grinding down the tabs will require delicate angles and touch, and will be a high risk of ruining the upper truss beams.



Lemonhawk said:


> Walters (and others) have "bridge track" just not sure about code 55. Also http://www.shop.cvmw.com/72ftLongBridgeTies-2-1903-2.htm has just the bridge ties and you can use your own rail.


Thanks for these resources, I appreciate it. But I have a few extra pieces of ME bridge track, so I plan to use what I've already got :thumbsup:


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## Lemonhawk

Can't wait for the final pictures! This will look so much better!


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## Overkast

A sneak preview teaser / eye candy for you... just setup a preliminary prototype to spec out the scene
















































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## traction fan

*Japanese bridge?*



Overkast said:


> Traction fan, I'm now giving this a second thought / consideration... After revisiting some of my truss bridge pictures, the ME bridge track certainly is more prototypical of the tie configuration vs. what comes with the Kato bridge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps I might try to get the ME bridge track to work on this truss set after all...
> 
> I just did a rough test and looks like if I stack two 0.015 styrene strips + one 0.060 strip I can match the height of the rail holder "bumps" and make a flush beam height for the ME bridge track to sit on and glue to:


overkast;

Most of Kato's structures an accessories are based on Japanese prototypes. Maybe the giant guard rails on their model represent a steel or concrete barrier intended to keep a derailed car from crashing into the truss structure?

Traction Fan


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## Overkast

traction fan said:


> overkast;
> 
> Most of Kato's structures an accessories are based on Japanese prototypes. Maybe the giant guard rails on their model represent a steel or concrete barrier intended to keep a derailed car from crashing into the truss structure?
> 
> Traction Fan


Hey traction fan... I have a feeling the giant guard rails are just part of a clunky Unitrack design (to accommodate the thick Unitrack rails). The guard rails were actually smaller than the Unitrack rails, but taller than Code 55 rails.


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## Overkast

*Major update to report.*.. I did a lot of work on the truss bridge today and am nearly done with it! I documented all the steps I took and will describe it all below:

*Step 1 - The styrene frame did not work!!!*  
It was turning out to be too flimsy with the pieces so thin. I couldn't get it to hold a straight shape when I started super-gluing it:









So now it was back to the drawing board. I needed a solution where the "mounting platform" I created could have a stiff and straight structural integrity. I also wanted the solution to be able to see down through the ties to keep it fairly prototypical (thus out-ruling the possibility of making / using a wider piece of styrene that goes down the middle and obstruct the view through the ties). So as I'm looking around my craft table I get an idea... see how tall a piece of Code 55 track is... and low and behold, it was the exact height I needed! :









*Step 2 - Cut 2 pieces of spare Code 55 Flex Track and use as the "mounting platforms" for the ME Bridge Track*. 
My plan was to flip the Code 55 track upside down, so the bottom of the ties would provide a flush surface area to mount the ME Bridge Track to. By doing this, I was also able to leverage the cavity between the rails to glue 2 styrene pieces where the screws would go into from under the bridge:









Loosely placed both Code 55 "mounting platforms" in the truss just to make sure they looked alright:









*Step 3 - Paint the Code 55 mounting platforms with rust color:*

















*Step 4 - Screws didn't work!*  
I had to buy some new / longer screws to reach all the way up to the styrene pieces, but the screws only come in 1/4 or 1/2 inch length. 1/4 was too small and barely reached, and 1/2 inch was too long. I cut the tips off the 1/2 inch screws down to the size I needed, but when trying to screw them into the styrene, they ended up stripping the hole!!! So I decided rather than relying on screws, I would simply use toothpicks to make as a guide dowel to go through the screw holes in the bottom of the bridge:









*Step 5 - Secure the Code 55 "mounting platforms" in place.* 
Since the platforms used toothpick dowels now and were lacking screws to have them tightened in place, the platforms had some wiggle room to move freely. I used toothpicks in the gaps at each end to keep the platforms in place so I could finally glue the ME Bridge Track to them:

















*Step 6 - Glue the ME Bridge Track. *
With the Code 55 mounting platforms in place, I decided to work on one half of the bridge at a time, since super glue gel has a pretty fast dry time. So working quickly, I put a drop of super glue every 1/2 inch or so going up one side and back down the other side of one of the mounting platforms. I placed the ME Bridge Track on that half and let it cure for a few mins. Then I lifted the ME Bridge Track (now with one platform stuck to it) and did the same thing to the other mounting platform on the other bridge half, and dropped the ME Bridge Track on top of that half and let it dry / cure.

After curing, I wanted to reinforce the bond between ME Bridge Track and the Code 55 mounting platforms, so I removed the track from the truss bridge, flipped the track over, and found good spots to apply extra super glue to the ties:









*I now have a fabulous looking truss bridge with American prototypical bridge track!!!*

















Now all I have left to do for this truss bridge is:

Finish shaping / sanding / painting the center abutment
Cut the ME Bridge Track to proper lengths
Paint the ME Bridge Track ties to look weathered
Paint the ME Bridge Track rails a rusty brown color
GLEAM the ME Bridge Track rail heads
Add guard rails and paint them rusty brown
Add guard timbers along the sides and paint them the same weathered color as the ties
Place the ME Bridge Track back in the truss bridge and join it with the Code 55 tracks


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## Overkast

Got the rails cut, bridge track ties weathered, and rails painted rusty tonight...


































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## jlc41

Nice work, I like the way you flipped the track for support. How are you joining the bridge track to the main track?


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## Overkast

jlc41 said:


> Nice work, I like the way you flipped the track for support. How are you joining the bridge track to the main track?


Thanks jlc41. What I did was extend the bridge track rails onto the main track roadbed a ways, but then removed the bridge track ties on those sections of rail and replaced them with the Atlas Code 55 flex track ties:


















There are a few *major *advantages to this technique:

*Spring tension. *The Atlas Code 55 track ties are designed to naturally "spring back" to the straight position when left on their own. That spring tension creates a very smooth and consistent curvature when using Atlas flex around curves. The ME Bridge Track ties have zero spring tension to them, meaning the track is highly subject to unexpected kinks and inconsistent curves if not handled properly and delicately. Putting spring tension on each end of the bridge track rails ensures a smooth transition to the main track.
*Stability. *Allowing this section of track to extend onto the main road bed and be glued to it will ensure good hold of the track on each end, thus providing extra insurance the track section won't sway/wiggle/shake as much if the rail joiners were right where the bridge starts (and thus the rail section would not be "fixed" to anything).
*Security.* Since joined rail sections should have small gaps between rails to allow room for rail expansion, those gaps can be a bit unpredictable in size and can be a vibration point to rail traffic as a result ("clackety-clack"). There's a theory that it's better to have rail joiners before and after bridges, and not at them or on them, so as to provide the most smooth running experience as possible for trains to cross a bridge. Perhaps this is more critical on an open deck plate girder bridge, where nothing is protecting a train from falling... but it's still a best practice that I am apt to follow regardless of the bridge type.
*Room to work. *We humans have big hands - imagine if you had to make changes to the bridge track after all the scenery and ballasting was done... If the rail joins started right next to the bridge, your big hands would have to work on that area with no room for slip error and risk of damaging the entire bridge structure. Also, one end of my bridge goes directly into a tunnel portal into a mountain, so I would have an incredibly difficult time accessing a rail joiner working on that end of the bridge if something needed to be adjusted. Having the track extend well into the tunnel and join inside the tunnel gives me access to the joiners easily through the back of the mountain, but well out of the way of the delicate bridge.


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## Lemonhawk

*Looks great!*







That looks so much better that the raised black plastic and you a really nice transition from regular rail to bridge rail.:appl:
Here a picture of the truss bridge I got at a garage sale, I think its from a Cambell kit.


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## Overkast

Lemonhawk said:


> View attachment 187985
> That looks so much better that the raised black plastic and you a really nice transition from regular rail to bridge rail.:appl:
> Here a picture of the truss bridge I got at a garage sale, I think its from a Cambell kit.


Thanks Lemonhawk! I'm really proud of it so far - this is my first major modding and detailing project on this layout so it's an exciting milestone experience for me.

Great score on the Campbell truss bridge - they look like really nicely detailed bridges. The thin wires are a real nice touch.


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## Overkast

I worked on painting the bridge pier tonight... very happy with the results:










































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## Lemonhawk

I Like those piers! I'm about to run out of things to do and may have to actually start to work scenery - then again I might start all over and do a layout along the walls.


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## Overkast

Lemonhawk, do you have a thread documenting your layout progress?? I can't find one. Would like to see what you've got going on too.


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## Lemonhawk

No I don't have anything documenting the Layout. Something I should do since I basically did it to test out construction and electronics. At the moment I'm messing with trying to use the Central Valley points and having lots of problems. After all the messing around I should have just quit and tried the proto87 points, but I'm saving that experience for another time. I do like making my own turnouts.


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