# Bachmann Daylight locomotove



## GeneS

I have a Bachmann Locomotive 4-8-4. It doesn't run but I hear the motor working. The rear drive wheels come off. I took the bottom apart and found that someone greased it up real well. I am in the process of taking the grease off. How do I keep the drive wheels fastened so that they will mesh with the motor and run. Shold I try gluing them? There are no splines and the fitting is too loose for any "press fit. Any ideas?


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## Boston&Maine

Hmm, you might be able to try using a high strength glue on it, just make sure you get the wheels positioned properly, LOL


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## shaygetz

Sadly, if it is an 80s or early 90s variation, you most likely have cracked gears. Bachmann used a nylon axle/gear assembly mounting two metal drivers to it. This is how they isolated the sides for electrical pickup. They used a pancake motor---the same one as their Brill Trolley no less---for a spur gear drive that just didn't hold up. Cracking was just as likely while running as sitting on the shelf waiting to be purchased...not a bright moment in Bachmann's day. I have one of their Northern's that still runs fine, I have their early N&W Class "J" that is showing signs of giving way. They make nice displays

UPDATE: Bowser makes a running gear assembly with motor that is a drop in fit and works great. I plan to get them for mine as funds are available.


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## GeneS

You know your stuff. I was the one with the wobbly engine. It was a N&W "J" class. I ordered another one. I haven't had time to really clean the axles to see what I am up against. I think I will try the glue first, making sure the wheels are all lined up. Thanks for your input. Yours seems a better fix. Can Bowser be found on line?


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## shaygetz

Here's their page for the kits>>> http://www.bowser-trains.com/hoemrrs/mechanisms/mechanisms.htm

The biggest problem you will have is "quartering", making sure that each driver is ---exactly---90 degrees opposite its mate. There is no room for fudging, take my word for it.

http://books.google.com/books?id=lp...sXg7pCy&sig=pLSCgLgM9dlUYzJcvNJbv7iPmf0&hl=en


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## ntrainlover

shaygetz said:


> Sadly, if it is an 80s or early 90s variation, you most likely have cracked gears. Bachmann used a nylon axle/gear assembly mounting two metal drivers to it. This is how they isolated the sides for electrical pickup. They used a pancake motor---the same one as their Brill Trolley no less---for a spur gear drive that just didn't hold up. Cracking was just as likely while running as sitting on the shelf waiting to be purchased...not a bright moment in Bachmann's day. I have one of their Northern's that still runs fine, I have their early N&W Class "J" that is showing signs of giving way. They make nice displays
> 
> UPDATE: Bowser makes a running gear assembly with motor that is a drop in fit and works great. I plan to get them for mine as funds are available.


Those are nice locos are the bachman spectrum?


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## shaygetz

ntrainlover said:


> Those are nice locos are the bachman spectrum?


No, but you could say that the Spectrum line wouldn't have been possible without these. They were offered in the late 70s/early 80s and later as a good stab at being taken seriously in the scale market while keeping costs in reach of the trainset crowd. The "J" runs great, has a DCC chip and pulls a 5 car train quite well but has that distinct hitch in it drive that tells me a gear is amisshwell: The Northern was a $3 gimmee at a swap meet and runs like  but it sure looks good doing it. I touched up the smokebox front to bring it more in line with her big sisters and the tender still has the sound system once offered in certain models. I have the matching N scale one that Bachmann did in the early 70s as well. They did a much better job on those that never carried over to the HO ones.


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## T-Man

*Quartering*



shaygetz said:


> [The biggest problem you will have is "quartering", making sure that each driver is ---exactly---90 degrees opposite its mate. There is no room for fudging, take my word for it.
> /QUOTE]
> 
> Wheel pulling and installing is a little beyond basic train repair. On the O gauge 6 wheel drive motors, I took one axle out to gain access to the armature. The wheel I pulled took minor damage. OK for my use but I couldn't do it to something with a high quality. To replace it I had to have the drive wheel right on the exact gear tooth to line up . Not to mention the other side being aligned and then pressing the two together. I did it slowly, rechecking the alignment often.
> I got it together , it ran until the drum broke on the e unit. The short fried the armature. hwell:
> I'll get around to it but I'm not looking forward to replacing the wheel.
> I thought the alignment deserved another mentioning.


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## Boston&Maine

T-Man said:


> The wheel I pulled took minor damage. OK for my use but I couldn't do it to something with a high quality. To replace it I had to have the drive wheel right on the exact gear tooth to line up . Not to mention the other side being aligned and then pressing the two together. I did it slowly, rechecking the alignment often.


Working with wheels and axles is not that hard with O scale stuff since it is big enough, one more reason why I think O scale rocks, LOL... What did you use to take them off? I used a flat head screwdriver to pry them off my 2026 and they came off with a little force, not enough to cause any damage though


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## T-Man

Screw driver? Wow high tech. Next time notch a piece of sheet metal and slide it through the axle. Use that to pry it instead of the wheel 
I used that ebay puller the picture is in my gallery. I remove some Baldwin disc wheels. Then I used some washers to protect the raised portion when pressing. They have end cups for that. Washers are less expensive.


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## Boston&Maine

LOL, I am all about high-tech tools :laugh:

That sheet metal idea sounds good, and I even have some of that at my house, unlike most stuff... I was wondering if you used the wheel puller because I have heard reports of them breaking the wheel flange, that is why I am hesitant to get one...


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## T-Man

*Wheel removal*

A puller on a 1 inch diesel drive doesn't work, unless you want to scrape the wheel. 

The best way is a one by three inch piece of blued banding. Usually scrape at a warehouse. A notch, length wise to the center, a quarter of an inch from one edge.The notch being a little over 3/16ths wide to clear the axle. This gives great support for the wheel. Place on a vise and punch the axle through.
I used this on a 2333 diesel power truck.


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## sort187

shaygetz said:


> Sadly, if it is an 80s or early 90s variation, you most likely have cracked gears. Bachmann used a nylon axle/gear assembly mounting two metal drivers to it. This is how they isolated the sides for electrical pickup. They used a pancake motor---the same one as their Brill Trolley no less---for a spur gear drive that just didn't hold up. Cracking was just as likely while running as sitting on the shelf waiting to be purchased...not a bright moment in Bachmann's day. I have one of their Northern's that still runs fine, I have their early N&W Class "J" that is showing signs of giving way. They make nice displays


Hello! I was googling "Bachmann Pancake" looking for some kind of solution to my problem and stumbled into your forum. Maybe y'all can help me. I have a pre-Spectrum 'J' class with the dreaded pancake motor....I had it in storage for several years, so I lubed it up and set it on the track. It went half-way around the layout and stopped cold. The headlight was on, and smoke was coming out of the stack, but no movement. I took the shell off and did the finger push on my test track....the motor made a humming sound, flashed, and started to pour smoke. I took it to my local train shop, hoping to find a replacement motor, but the fellow behind the counter told me I was out of luck and that I would, like you said, have a really nice display. So I called Bachmann, and was told I could send it in with $40.00 and get an upgraded replacement. That's cool and all, but I'm attached to my 'J'...I've had it for almost ten years with no trouble, and then *POOF* up in smoke. Is there someone that might have aftermarket motors, or will I have to be resigned to searching the junkpiles at the trainshows/flea markets? Or should I just give in and send it back to Bachmann? Thanks!


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## shaygetz

Welcome to the forum:thumbsup:

Bowser has a pricey alternative but one I plan to go with as funds are available >>>http://bowser-trains.com/hoemrrs/mechanisms/mechanisms.htm

At $83, the "J"s retrofit is long on green but, like you, I'd like to keep my old piece.


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