# What does this Atlas Non-Derail Schematic say?



## ErnestHouse (Sep 6, 2015)

I picked up as Atlas 6924 non-derail circuit board and an Atlas switch machine. I do not understand the schematic for wiring it for non-derail. I am not adding a control. I just want it to work autonomously. I am guessing the inside rails of the turnout and straight are to be insulated but I'm not sure. Can someone confirm that and interpret the schematic for where to wire "IN A" and "IN B" on the switch? I don't understand the notation. TIA


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I agree the wiring drawing and instructions are vague at best.
It is for 0 scale trains.

I found these more complete instructions by Google






Wiring an Atlas 6924 N-D Board w/ #57 Switch Control


Hey Gang, I'm editing the post to make this tutorial a little more user friendly. This tutorial will assist in wiring the Atlas 6924 non-derail board with the Atlas #57 switch control. It will not cover powering the closure rails....




ogrforum.ogaugerr.com





Don


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## ErnestHouse (Sep 6, 2015)

yes I found those as well. I am not clear on how to connect the wires to IN A and IN B on the switch. I can't use the wired rail joiners because those joiners need to be isolation joiners. Undernearth the switch, there's a piece of copper soldered on that connects the diverter and straight through rails. Am I to clip that connector and solder wire to the fragments? I'd think that would be mentioned since it's a destructive and advanced skills maneuver. 

Ideas? TIA


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## ErnestHouse (Sep 6, 2015)

Ok. Couple hours on the bench and I was able to wiring it up without touching the copper piece soldered to the switch bottom inside rails. Attached is my cheat sheet and a printable version. 








Now that I understand how it works, I think you could remove that copperpiece and use a terminal joiner to wire that rail and an insulating joiner where that rail on the next track piece connects to the layout. That would make the switch inside rails what activates the switch. 

However, that kinda destroys the switch. To do it non-destructively, I insulated the switch inside rails from the next track piece. On the next two pieces of track on each leg, I used a wired terminal joiner as the way to wire that rail to the circuit board and then an insulator on the second track piece to isolate that rail from the rest of the layout. This effectively makes a two track long activation rail. It's my only option AFAIK at this point. Love to hear other ideas. YMMV.


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

ErnestHouse said:


> Ok. Couple hours on the bench and I was able to wiring it up without touching the copper piece soldered to the switch bottom inside rails. Attached is my cheat sheet and a printable version.
> View attachment 550673
> 
> 
> ...


Great. I was researching this as I have no knowledge of Atlas switches. Some questions ...

Are you using track power or accessory power to activate the switch? Where is that connected on the module?

Does the Atlas module limit the time the motor is energized?


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## ErnestHouse (Sep 6, 2015)

I powered the switch through the CB at a constant 16v when I tested it. The Atlas module does limit the time the motor is energized. I have a brand new switch machine if you are interested. I had forgotten the switch came with one. Doh!


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## ErnestHouse (Sep 6, 2015)

Just keeping this up to date. I went to wire my switch after reading a trick by @gunrunnerjohn to clip the bit of plastic under the rail between ties and solder a lead there. This saves on 6090 terminal joiners and makes the activation rail only one track length. I had to roughen up the rail underside pretty good to get the solder to stick. Anyway, my original diagram was missing a 6093 insulated rail joiner on the inside rail of the through leg. FWIW.


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