# Those cone springs work



## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Well, 282 is out of the repair shop again. All 6 of the shell mounting screw holes were broke out. All fixed now. 282
was having a terrible time keeping front pilot wheels on the
track. In less than 1/4 lap around my little floor layout the front pilot wheels would be off. I put one of those cone springs on.
A tedious task to get it wound on but well worth it. Just got through running 282 for at least 30 minutes and front wheels did not come off once. Those things work. They were 2 for 1.25 best money I have spent yet. Got them from afk5 on ebay.


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## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

Sometimes the smallest thing can make a big difference. Most of the engines that I've bought if the spring is still there, it's usually collapsed from age and is not doing the job it was designed to do. Others have no spring at all. It all helps to keep the pilot on the track. Glad to know it made a difference in the 282.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I got a plastic 302 that can't keep pilot wheels on track. Will be another good test.
It really has worked on the 282. I have run it some more and still has not came off.


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## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

:thumbsup:


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

I've got some engines that need work.. Can I send them to you for repair??:laugh:.. You da man!:thumbsup:


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

LOL. You can but I gotta tell you I am slow. It will be months before you get them back. LOL. I had to redo some of the mounting holes in 282. 2 of them busted more plastic out when I drilled the holes. One I busted the JB Weld out cause I didn't have the drill straight up and down and kinda went sideways. They are all good now. If you bust a hole out you are done for 24 to 36 hours. Time for JB weld to set up again. That 282 shell had not been secured for years. Nice to have it right. I had to grind about 1/8 inch off both of
my new motor mounts. Chassis would not fit between them. They were suppose to be for a plastic pacific but they weren't. They are working now. Sometimes you have to fabricate. LOL.


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## dooper (Nov 9, 2015)

Very good Mopac!:appl:

Now, I need to do the same with some of my stock. I have used JB weld before, but after you drilled new holes, what type of screw did you use?


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

dooper said:


> Very good Mopac!:appl:
> 
> Now, I need to do the same with some of my stock. I have used JB weld before, but after you drilled new holes, what type of screw did you use?


I can answer that, but I'll let MOPAC do the honors,lol!!:smilie_daumenpos:


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I used the original screws. I think they were s219 and s230. They are for the locomotives.
Drill hole a little smaller and the screws cut new threads in the JB Weld. I just snugged the screws up. I didn't want to pull the threads out. They did tighten.


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## dooper (Nov 9, 2015)

Thank You Mopac:smilie_daumenpos::appl:


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

You are more than welcome. My original screws were long gone. I bought new ones
from Jeff Kane @ The Train Tender for $0.20 each. I think the S219 are the larger ones
of the 2. They were used for the motor mount plates and for front of chassis to shell.
I used S230 to secure front pilot assembly to shell. S230 is correct screw to hold female
tender plug to the shell. I had silver screws for the plug. The new black screws look much better. All the new screws are black.

My screw holes were really in bad shape. Over the years I just kept using larger screws and that really
broke out the plastic. All holes are nice now. Those old plastic boilers can be saved.


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