# Help for a newbie!



## Toadvine (Nov 28, 2020)

Hello all, 

I recently got a Kato unitrack starter kit to run around in circles for my boys. I set it up and it ran great, then I put it away for a month. My boys have been bugging me about setting it up again for the holidays, but this time it won't run. The Power Pack SX Standard will light up green, but then will go to red when the throttle goes to about 1/2 speed. The reset button will turn it green again, but the same problem persists. The train will not move. 

I don't even know where to begin with figuring this out on my own! I was hoping this is just an easy fix for you grizzled vets, but I fear that I "fried" something...

I am a total newbie with model trains, and don't know the first thing about the power/electrical aspect of model railroading. I am very interested in learning, so any resources for starting at square 1 in this hobby is appreciated. My 2 young sons get a kick out of it, and I really want to get more into railroading as I hope this can be something we share for many years to come. 

Thank you in advance!


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

The indication is that you have a short circuit. But where? 

Keep in mind that the two rails of the track could be considered wires.
They must not touch each other.

First test...remove the train. including cars from the track.. 

Do you get the same red shorting light when you raise the speed control? If so, there is a short
i n your track or the wires leading to it. Make sure there are no metal pieces or wires across the rails.
Check to make sure the wires from the power pack to the track do not touch eiach other or anything
but the track and power pack.

If the power pack stays 'green' (no short0....put ONLY the loco on the tradk. Raise speed control.
Does the power pack indicator stay green and the loco moves? The problem was one of the
cars was not properly on the track and the wheels were shorting.

If the power pack again shows red when you raise the speed control, there is something
on the loco that is shorting. Did you accidentally rotate one of the trucks 180 degees? That
would cause a short. Both red wires should be on the same side. Check the red and black wires that run from the wipers agaiinst
loco wheels...are they properly connected and not touching anything?

Let us now what you find after these tests.

Don


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## Toadvine (Nov 28, 2020)

DonR said:


> The indication is that you have a short circuit. But where?
> 
> Keep in mind that the two rails of the track could be considered wires.
> They must not touch each other.
> ...


Hi! Thanks for your response!

The short is definitely in the track (or wires leading to it), as it lights up red whether the train is on it or not. 

What would be the step-by-step things you'd look at to remedy this?

Thanks again!


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## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

*1) Are you sure you connected the wires to the correct terminals on the power pack? 2) Disconnect the wires from the power pack and turn the speed control up...If the red light comes on, then there is a short inside the pack and will require repair/replacement. Good luck! Hang in there, we'll get this solved!*


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## Toadvine (Nov 28, 2020)

Fire21 said:


> *1) Are you sure you connected the wires to the correct terminals on the power pack? 2) Disconnect the wires from the power pack and turn the speed control up...If the red light comes on, then there is a short inside the pack and will require repair/replacement. Good luck! Hang in there, we'll get this solved!*


I unplugged the track wiring from the power pack so that the power pack is only plugged into the outlet and I get the same red light. I assume this means that the problem is with the power pack?

Is this something that needs to be replaced? Is it likely an easy fix? Does Kato have a warranty that covers a new power pack? I've only had it for ~2 months.

Thanks!


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## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

*From what I've heard from other forum members, Kato has excellent warranty coverage. If you bought the set at a local hobby store, take it back and they should replace it. If you need to send it in for fixing, then use the warranty info that came with the set to get it sent in. I know, warranty work takes time, but it saves you money when things don't work right.*

*Let's see if anyone else replies...they might have a different suggestion for handling this. Give it a day or two.*


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## QueenoftheGN (Dec 10, 2019)

Firstly; has it been under 60 days since you purchased the set? If so, continue reading, if not, the warranty won’t cover it, I’m sorry. 

Send a note with the;
1: Roadname
2: Engine number
3: Name of whatever shop you bought it from
4: Description of the problem (I’m not quite sure the problem, so I’ll keep my mouth shut here) 
5: Contact info (Email, phone number, etc.)

The address is 

*Kato U.S.A., Warranty Services
100 Remington Road
Schaumburg, IL 60173 U.S.A.*

this warranty applies to products purchased new from a hobby retailer, Items purchased as is or in second hand sales (Ebay) will be covered at the discretion of Kato


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## clovissangrail01 (Oct 8, 2019)

Depending on how much you think your time is worth, you may want to just buy another controller. Amazon, 50 bucks.

If you can take it back to the original place of purchase and they will immediately swap it out, well and good.

But if you have to contact Kato, box it up, schlepp it to UPS and pay for shipping, then wait who knows how long to get a replacement, biting the bullet and buying a new one might be a viable option.


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## Wooky_Choo_Bacca (Nov 13, 2020)

Something else to look at, I've had this small issue, do you have a turnout (track switch) connected ? On my DC setup I've got one turnout (it's actually 4 turnouts in one unit) hooked up that if thrown with the train doing more than a crawl it will trip the breaker and I have to reset it to green


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## Toadvine (Nov 28, 2020)

clovissangrail01 said:


> Depending on how much you think your time is worth, you may want to just buy another controller. Amazon, 50 bucks.
> 
> If you can take it back to the original place of purchase and they will immediately swap it out, well and good.
> 
> But if you have to contact Kato, box it up, schlepp it to UPS and pay for shipping, then wait who knows how long to get a replacement, biting the bullet and buying a new one might be a viable option.


Thanks! This is probably the route I'll take. I appreciate the help from everyone!


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