# Your Question: --> What model glue should I use ??



## ED-RRR

There are many (many) different types of glues..
Each and every "Individual" will recommend a "Different" glue posting their "Favorite" glue..
I will not recommend a "Brand Name" glue because each "Plastic" manufacture recommends "Their" own proven "Tested" products..
I have listed some other "Glues" that have good responses from "Private" individuals on the internet..

Caution.. --> When Using Super Glue !! ..:thumbsdown::thumbsdown::thumbsdown:

Super Glue: (My actual usage history)..
Back in (2000) I glued together several high quality (Kibri) structures..
Of course I was impatient and did "Not" want to "Wait" for the glue to "Dry" for the next procedure..
Glueing a structure together using "Super Glue" (Liquid) can be very fast.. 
-But-
"Super Glue" (Liquid) can also "Damage" the clear plastic "Windows".. 
Back in (2005), every time I moved my [HO] layout on wheels, something would "Fall" of a "Structure".. (Awnings, Smoke Stacks, Etc.)..
When looking at these parts, the "Super Glue" had "Crystalized" and no longer "Bonding" together..
Large internal surfaces like glueing structure walls together seem to work A.O.K... 
Most of my small external parts have fallen "Off" my structures.. 

I now use (x3) "Different" glues and and use the "Glue" that works "Best" for that required "Application"..

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Loctite sells a "Super Glue"
- All Plastics
- Especially For Plastics
--> Plastic, Porcelain, Metal, Rubber, Leather, Wood, Paper (x7)

Loctite sells a "Bonding System"
- Fuses hard to Bond Plastics
- Only For Plastics
--> Requires an "Activator"

Question: (#1)
Why is Loctite is selling (x2) "Different" plastic glues !!
"Super Glue" can "Not" be used for "All" plastics.. (Bonding Activator Required !!)..







Faller: (x2)
- # 170490 (Super Expert - Fast Setting Plastic Cement) !!
- # 170492 (Expert)







Tamiya: (x3)
- White Cap = Cement (Plastic)
- Blue Cap = Cement (ABS)
- Green Cap = Cement (Extra Thin)







Kibri Glue: (ABS Plastic)
Plastruct Bondene: (ABS and Styrene Plastic)







Caution: (When Gluing Parts)
The glue "Containers" that have a "Brush" applicator --> spreads "Glue" over a 'Wide" surface.. 
The glue "Containers" that have a "Metal Tube" applicator --> have very limited "Control" of "Glue" being released out..

In "All" applications when "Gluing", the required procedures will always require a good "Controlled" procedure..
I use a "Microbrush" when gluing "Small" parts..
- Comes in many different "Tip Sizes"
- The "Color" of the "Microbrush" determines the brush "Size"
- The "Tip" can be also "Bent" to an easier "Position" for gluing







================================

Help Others: (For The Future)..
Many individuals are "Only" reading my "Threads"..
I am only "Posting" technical information into different "Threads"..

Facts: This is a "Forum"..
Without the occasional "Reply" to my technical "Threads", 
this information will be "Lost" in "Past History" within (x3) months..
......


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## Mr.Buchholz

WeldBond. It goes on white, dries clear, is very strong, and doesn't cost an arm and a leg for a bottle or two.









I swear by this stuff. Always have two bottles on my shelf, and I won't use anything else.

-J.


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## jlc41

Just when I thought super glue had me covered, I find the very informative post. Thank you for sharing.


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## Genetk44

*Glue*

My preferred plast cement for the past 45 years...getting hard to find








I also use Tamiya cement in a pinch....superglue also has its place depending on the circumstance.


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## John Olson

What adhesive is best for bonding styrene to resin, or vice versa? Does either surface bond better after scuffing/abrading the joint area?..........John


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## Cycleops

If you don't already know never use superglue for fixing any plastic windows. It won't take effect immediately but over time the clear plastic will frost over.

Proweld cones under various other brand names and is quite a bit aggressive than regular poly cement so should only be used on thicker sheets.


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## Navarre

*Your Question: --&gt; What model glue should I use ??*

For plastic to plastic joints, I use a 50/50 mix of MEK and acetone.

For metal to metal, I use AC glue. 

For metal to plastic, I use canopy glue. 

For wood to wood or metal, tend to use Plyobond thinned with MEK. (Paint on both surfaces let dry (drys fast) clamp / band parts together, then brush MEK/acetone along joint. ) a little MEK can remove parts if needed. 

For Windows, I use woodland scenics accent cement (place around wall/ window frame, let dry and then place window)

The most important thing I can tell someone using glue of any type....

The applicator in/on the bottle is never the way to apply glue. 

A small brush, wire or toothpick is the only way to do this. 




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## John Olson

I've been a hobby user of practically every version of "adhesive" for years, but in returning to HO again, I notice there are potential new combinations of materials to be joined together. Specifically, what would you use to bond resin parts to styrene (i.e. Westerfield resin ends to a styrene hopper)? Thanks......John


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## Navarre

Epoxy is what most resin makers recommend. 


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## ED-RRR

*Mini Brushes..*



Navarre said:


> A small brush, wire or toothpick is the only way to do this.


I have been using these for many years..
- Detail Painting
- Locomotive Lubrication (Grease)
- Gluing

Micro-Brush..
http://www.micromark.com/fine-microbrushes-pkg-of-30,8375.html

I find these special small brushes excellent for gluing..
- Different Brush Sizes
- Heads Of All Brushes Bend For Better Control









......


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## ED-RRR

*Epoxy Glue..*



Navarre said:


> Epoxy is what most resin makers recommend..


Sorry, but I would "Not" recommend using any type of "Epoxy" glue..
- It requires special "Mixing Procedure" before applying the (50/50 mixture)..
- There are also different types of "Epoxy" glue for each different type of application..
- It is also "Too Thick" for small plastic parts..








......


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## gunrunnerjohn

Maybe you don't recommend epoxy style adhesives, but that doesn't mean they don't have their place. I'm a frequent user of JB-Weld, great stuff for all kinds of repairs. I've lost count of the times I reach for those two tubes, very versatile adhesive.


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## Torsion

I use Plastruct plastic weld, super glue (been using for almost 40 years never had never had anything just fall apart with it), and white glue for wood and clear windows.


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## Navarre

MEK and Acetone is about the same as plastic weld. 

It just costs a lot less. 


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## SOUmodeler

Don't forget contact cements like Pliobond or even Walthers Goo. A dot applied from a toothpick is great for tacking tiny detail parts in place before applying your permanent adhesive.


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## gunrunnerjohn

I like Walther's Goo, but you have to be vary careful with it or it can make a mess.


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## Navarre

SOUmodeler said:


> Don't forget contact cements like Pliobond or even Walthers Goo. A dot applied from a toothpick is great for tacking tiny detail parts in place before applying your permanent adhesive.



I keep a small bottle of Plyobond thinned with MEK until it is like whole milk. 

Just brush it on. Easy to control. A little MEK added later will reactivate the glue and give a super strong hold. 

More MEK can be used to release the bond. 

But this is NOT for plastic. 

Wood, card stock, or metal are fine. 


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## WaltP

On the Superglues with the needle applicator, does the needle stay clear over time or does it need to be replaced? I've had trouble with the bottle's applicator becoming clogged after a while. Tips? (other than keep the cap on -- that I know...)


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## gunrunnerjohn

I wipe the tip after use, and also insure the tip is clear if liquid glue before I put the top on. Always store them upright, be careful not to tip them over as that sometimes causes the problem. If the tip does get clogged, I have a small paperclip bent to use as a clean-out tool. I also chip the dried glue from the tip after many uses, it builds up, but doesn't stick to the plastic bottle material very hard.


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## Overkast

I have to glue track to a scratch-built bridge - depending on the scenario I will need to glue it to either MDF or styrene (or both). 

MDF + Styrene:









Or just Styrene:









I am wary about using super glue, because of the quick drying / short working time - I wanted something that will take a bit longer to settle. I was hoping to use something like Liquid Nails Projects, but it dries as a tan color and I will be applying this adhesive to the bridge once it is spray painted black... so I need something that is either clear or black.

Any suggestions?


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## CTValleyRR

White glue, tacky glue, hot glue, or clear latex caulk.


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## Lemonhawk

Long ago I used Philobond and what a mess, strings all over. Now I've been using CVT ties and rail and Philobond is the greatest! I've also switched from using white glued for roadbed and track to using caulk, much better!


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## Overkast

I'm intrigued by the clear latex caulk suggestion... I may go with that! What's the average set time? I don't know anything about Philobond... what does CVT stand for?

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## gunrunnerjohn

You'd have plenty of time with clear latex caulk, it takes a few minutes to start to set.


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## Overkast

Thanks guys - I think I'll try my luck with the clear latex caulk and see what happens.


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## Lemonhawk

CVT is Central Valley Ties, from Central Valley Model Works http://www.cvmw.com. Probably shouldn't use CVT acronym for that. The ties are plastic self gauging that you can them lay rail on. You can also make your own turnouts. Pilobond is a contact cement, so when I glue the rails to the ties I use a dental irrigator ( Monojet 412 ) and put a bead on the bottom of the track and then on the top of the ties where the rail goes, wait a minute or 2, then bed it done using a wooden block to apply pressure.


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