# Plasticville Glue Residue Removal



## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

I have not found any particular area where this thread might be located, so I added it under the "General Discussion" area....maybe the Forum might consider a separate place in the future for Plasticville discussion??

I have amassed many pieces of Plasticville in my collection. Many are complete and in top notch condition. A few are so-so. One of the issues I found is that some parts contain that yellowed glue residue on the mating parts. I'm curious if anyone has found a product that will remove it without damaging or staining the piece. PV parts as we all know are styrene plastic, so the solvent should be 'friendly' to the parts. If it depends on the type of glue that was used, I'm afraid it would be impossible to determine. I have not tried to use anything yet, so all your suggestions are welcome.


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## Carl (Feb 19, 2012)

CA glues "melt" plastic together. I have heard of folks using the sand and fill method for the issue you mention. Sand down the yellow residue, fill any holes/gaps with Squadron Green Putty, sand to smooth surface and paint.


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

I'd prefer to keep the pieces as original and untouched as possible -- if that's EVEN possible?? If worse comes to worse, I can use that as a last resort.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I belive I read on this forum that some people freeze the object then scrape off the glue. Maybe try it on a more broken up peice first? I never tried it, but I would be careful so I wouldn't break the plastic. It might become brittle, but if it's like Carl said and melted together, his might be the only option.


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## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

the yellow glue marks are from the old stile plastic glue used in the 50/60. 

it may come of with light scratching.


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## kix662003 (Mar 8, 2013)

I have over a dozen structures that were manufactured in the 80s with the yellowed glue. I checked modeling sites and supply companies and found nothing, mainly because it's a reaction to some part of the melting process that appears with age (they said). No matter what I tried, the area looked just as bad or worse. Refinishing was the only option. I was told that I may have to use enamel model paint in some cases, especially on white styrene. So far, a couple coats or acrylic craft paint from Walmart has worked. I scrape the discolored area with a scalpel before re-painting the discolored area or entire structure. It's given me the excuse to use some soft pastels for weathering. Bummer if the piece that has to be refinished is the one with the vintage decals on it!


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Thanks for the suggestions so far. I may try the freezing method on an older, non-important piece. Meanwhile further thoughts are always welcome.


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## The New Guy (Mar 11, 2012)

From the bowels of the interwebs I offer this. Ehow is generally the haven of twits and hacks, but maybe you get lucky.

Although the grilled cheese directions were spot on.


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## ktcards (Sep 22, 2012)

The New Guy said:


> From the bowels of the interwebs I offer this. Ehow is generally the haven of twits and hacks, but maybe you get lucky.
> 
> Although the grilled cheese directions were spot on.


I think that I would try it on some scraps first.

Ray


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Yep, Acetone is pretty nasty stuff on many plastics, so tread carefully.


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## kix662003 (Mar 8, 2013)

ktcards is correct. I ruined a 1951 Ford promo model with Acetone. There's three parts on YouTube of a modeler that uses Acetone to melt scrap into formable goo. I wish that I had left the promo alone. It looked better before I "fixed" it. Live and learn. That's why I scrape and refinish now. I've ruined various items with Denatured Alcohol, too.


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## kix662003 (Mar 8, 2013)

This is why I'm sour on using anything on plastic models:



















I don't know if the long-term decay could be from furniture polish that the original owner may have used a few decades ago, or if it happened when I tried to clean early discoloration. Either way, anything other than a soft cloth is a gamble.


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## hamilton77 (Sep 12, 2013)

I recently got an Atlas gold GP40-2 engine and didn't realize it didn't come with everything assembled. I did the detailing last night which was one of the most frustrating nights of my life. All worked at least until putting the sunshades on which I thought would be the easy part. The holes were apparently too small for the parts to fit and I ended breaking one of the pegs. I then used glue but used too much as some of it ran down the side. Hindsight, I wish I wouldn't have bothered with the sunshades as I fear I've ruined a $200 train. If anyone knows of a solution on how to remove the glue without affecting the paint, I'd greatly appreciate it. 

Thanks much


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I vote scrape, sand, rubbing and then polishing compound.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

kix662003 said:


> This is why I'm sour on using anything on plastic models:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Your using a secured url. https. The pictures won't show up.


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## hamilton77 (Sep 12, 2013)

Thanks for the info T-Man, I'm going to see what I can do tonight. If that fails, I'm wondering if the shells of the Atlas silvers are the same as the golds? It looks like the only difference between the 2 is the sound but I could be wrong. Though expensive, maybe I could find a silver one and use that shell on the gold? I'd consider just buying another gold but they're very hard to find.

Thanks again!


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