# Lionel 260 bumper question



## eljefe (Jun 11, 2011)

I have a nice collection of bumpers in great condition except for a minor problem with one of them. The metal connector that touches the center rail doesn't quite reach so the bumper doesn't get power. It should be a simple fix to bend it down but I can't tell how to remove the base to get access. The later Lionel bumpers (6-62283) have screws but the 260's have "pegs" for lack of a better word. Can these be safely pried off without damaging the bumper?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You can't remove the base easily, but you can take them out. Those things are pressed in, you just have to slowly work them out. You may need something like superglue to make them stay after removing them.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

eljefe said:


> I have a nice collection of bumpers in great condition except for a minor problem with one of them. The metal connector that touches the center rail doesn't quite reach so the bumper doesn't get power. It should be a simple fix to bend it down but I can't tell how to remove the base to get access. The later Lionel bumpers (6-62283) have screws but the 260's have "pegs" for lack of a better word. Can these be safely pried off without damaging the bumper?



Just take an old piece of rail, cut off a small piece and open it up some to slip on top where the connector will be.
You won't see it anyway.
I would think a little solder on the rail would be a fix too. Just enough to make it contact the clip.
As long as the clip contacts it, it should work.


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

Is it sticking out at all?

If so, can you grab it with pliers?

If the suggestons don't work, perhaps a picture would help.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Dave Sams said:


> Is it sticking out at all?
> 
> If so, can you grab it with pliers?
> 
> If the suggestions don't work, perhaps a picture would help.


I am just suggesting what I said, I never tried as all mine work.
Pulling it out some might work...it also might break it.

Then he will have to take it apart to fix it.

They look like what John said, you might have to glue the base back on to hold it, but since you can't see it anyway, that should be no problem either.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I actually pulled one apart because the socket for the lamp was funky. I worked the rivet out, but it was kinda' loose when I put it back together. I just dumped a little instant glue down the hole and shoved the rivet in, it was there forever!


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## eljefe (Jun 11, 2011)

It does stick out and the gap to the rail is small--just enough to not connect. I've tried tugging on it with pliers but it still bends back up to the same position.

I have one other 260 that is missing the spring that pushes out the actual bumper. I imagine there's no way to repair it without also working out the rivets? Maybe I could use that one as a test case.

I don't anticipate needing either of these given my current layout design, but I'd prefer to fix them before trying to sell them.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Try pulling the rivets and see where you get.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I have no pictures of this beast.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

T-Man said:


> I have no pictures of this beast.



You getting old T man?

Your thread on the 260...listed in your Find a manual.


http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=2362


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Oh THAT BUMPER.

I thought he was talking BUMPER CARS.hwell:

For that metal to fit you need to determine if a piece broke off.

The side screws need to be retracted for the unit to sit correctly on the track.

I cut the top with a slice and use a screwdriver Prying works too. You may be able to use a small sheet metal screw as a replacement.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

T-Man said:


> Oh THAT BUMPER.
> 
> I thought he was talking BUMPER CARS.hwell:
> 
> ...



Silly question,
what is a #260 bumper car?:laugh:

or are you talking about the #60 trolley car with the bumpers?

I am thinking he could just build up the area on the track underneath so it makes contact with the clip. A piece of rail cut or solder? 
Then he wouldn't even have to take it apart. All it needs is connection for the light to work.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

He could solder a wire to the copper piece or rivet and jam a metal connector from the underside of the rail and attach the wire to it.

A Flashlight from a dollar store would have the metal strips for the repair. I would double up on the backside and solder the strip in.






















I had a good vacation, a 260 bumper, good grief.

That is why I tag and link up everything since I can't remember it all.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

You still must be getting the eggnog out of you from vacation.


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## eljefe (Jun 11, 2011)

big ed said:


> You getting old T man?
> 
> Your thread on the 260...listed in your Find a manual.
> 
> http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=2362


Excellent thread. I should have looked for that to answer my questions. Based on the photos of the internal layout, the repair I had in mind is probably not viable. Looks like I'm better off just adding a bit of metal to the contact so it touches the rail.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

eljefe said:


> Excellent thread. I should have looked for that to answer my questions. Based on the photos of the internal layout, the repair I had in mind is probably not viable. Looks like I'm better off just adding a bit of metal to the contact so it touches the rail.


That is all you have to do, just to make contact. A piece of wire would work too.
Once you set it down you won't see any of it, and it only powers the light bulb.


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