# Time for construction



## Jimganley (May 28, 2016)

Well I got my room ready to start construction on my RR, I am going with an around the wall style. Room is from the door hinge 48" South, 111" West, 183 North, 38" East, 27" South,81" East and 74" South to the door latch. I would like to keep the reach to 30", I also would like to have a continuous main but I am a bit worried with only 30". I also am going to use all flex track and the theme will be mostly flat and working in an urban/industrial setting.


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## MikeB (Feb 11, 2016)

Sounds interesting, lots of options!!


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## Mark VerMurlen (Aug 15, 2015)

Sounds great! Be sure to start a thread in "My Layout" to record the progress you make as you go. Looking forward to seeing what this looks like.

Mark


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## Bwells (Mar 30, 2014)

I drew out a diagram of the room as per your directions, took a picture of it and sent it to my email, still waiting for it to show up. In the mean time, is there a closet door involved and a window? The measurements came out rather strange but as soon as it shows up, I will post, unless you have a drawing to post.


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## Bwells (Mar 30, 2014)

Here is what I came up with. A large gap that would be the door and walls that don't line up.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Jim

Have you considered an along the wall U shaped
layout with expanded widths at the end of each leg
of the U.

That way you can have 22" or better curves that
let you run larger locomotives. 

The U gives you easy access to all sections of
the layout without the need for a lift out 'bridge'
or worse, a crawl under entry.

You could have essentially a point to point layout
but with continuous running. Each leg of the U
could be a separate town with it's own businesses
that 'ship' to businesses in the other town. You
would have plenty of room for good yards and 
many spurs for 'industries'.

If you are to use DCC I would go with a single
track mainline with 3 or 4 passing sidings so that
you can run trains in both directions at the same time.

Another thought is that you could use the bottom
of the U as a gorge with a river...a bridge spanning
it.

D


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Around the room continuous main w/ a depth not exceeding 30" is a great layout space. You have nothing to worry about there).


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## DaveCo (Nov 9, 2015)

This is very similiar to the way I did mine. In some areas I only came out 12 inches, and there was still plenty of room for sidings and scenery along with the main line.


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## santafealltheway (Nov 27, 2012)

DaveCo said:


> This is very similiar to the way I did mine. In some areas I only came out 12 inches, and there was still plenty of room for sidings and scenery along with the main line.


Same here!


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*30" Depth*



Jimganley said:


> Well I got my room ready to start construction on my RR, I am going with an around the wall style. Room is from the door hinge 48" South, 111" West, 183 North, 38" East, 27" South,81" East and 74" South to the door latch. I would like to keep the reach to 30", I also would like to have a continuous main but I am a bit worried with only 30". I also am going to use all flex track and the theme will be mostly flat and working in an urban/industrial setting.


Jimganley;

A 30" depth can be easy or poor access reach, depending on height. Your own height, and the height of the railroad off the floor.
If you have not already done so, you might want to set some taught strings 30" from the wall and at your planned layout height. Then you can try reaching to the back, and see if that works, or not. Be honest, and realistic about what you would want to reach on a regular basis, and for some time, to do such tasks as track cleaning. It is also a good idea to keep distant (reach) track simple. Turnouts located where they are difficult to reach, WILL be a nightmare. Not "could", or "might", but WILL! A sturdy, and well braced, foot stool, or stepladder can be used to extend your reach, if you want to have the layout near eye level. The downside of using such a stool is that you have to use it every time, and sometimes for a long period. The stool would also have to be moved to each location as you clean the track. None of these things is a deal breaker. All can be worked around. So If you decide to have a high, deep shelf, it's perfectly possible. 
If you can build all the way around the room, 360 degrees using a hinged drop down bridge across any doors; then curves can be broad, and life will be simple and fun. Many nice layouts have been built this way. If you can't/don't want to build all the way around, then continuous running will require loops at both ends of the main line. My railroad is built this way. I have a slight advantage in that I'm using N-scale, and therefore can turn a little more sharply. My minimum radius is 16" which isn't all that different from the 18" HO minimum. However the equivalent radius in HO-scale would be more like 34" requiring a table width of nearly six feet. 

good luck;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:

Ps. The photo below shows one of my layout's end loops.


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## Bwells (Mar 30, 2014)

Guys, I think we maybe jumping the gun here. The OP has gone MIA and really did not ask for advice or help in his first post, more of a statement that this is what I am doing. I hope he knows cause his measurements just don't add up. Let's see if he comes back with something more to add.


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## Jimganley (May 28, 2016)

Bwells said:


> Here is what I came up with. A large gap that would be the door and walls that don't line up.
> 
> View attachment 231537


Around the wall 38" above the floor with a 30" table also the West wall has a window about center and it is 32" above the floor and I am toying with the idea to drop the table to the window sill then back up to the 38" level. I do not plan on running 6 axle units (to expensive)

Change the 38" to a 30", I was thinking about a drop or removable track for the door area and I have since ruled that out also no duck under. I will be using flex track throughout the layout which should make the curves a bit smoother.


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## Bwells (Mar 30, 2014)

Aha, changing the 38 to 30 is perfect. Now the west and east walls still leave an awfully big door. How wide is the door and how wide is the window and I will draw it up so we can visualize what you have. 

Edit: I was wrong, it comes out to a 34" door. I'm good to go except for the width of the window. No closet?


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## Bwells (Mar 30, 2014)

Is this it??


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## Jimganley (May 28, 2016)

Bwells said:


> Guys, I think we maybe jumping the gun here. The OP has gone MIA and really did not ask for advice or help in his first post, more of a statement that this is what I am doing. I hope he knows cause his measurements just don't add up. Let's see if he comes back with something more to add.


Well I am back and I apologize for being so vague I need some slack here I am an old man from the cheese state.
The measurement at the door is not exact but in reality it is a 32" door as soon as I learn to send photos I will post the room.


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## Bwells (Mar 30, 2014)

No problem on the door, doesn't really matter but we are close, right? Are you looking for thoughts or ideas?


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## Jimganley (May 28, 2016)

Yes need all the help and advice I can get, as I am a true newby still at the around the tree stage,


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## Bwells (Mar 30, 2014)

“Limburger—Don’t Eat It with Your Nose.” So reads the sign above the bar at Baumgartner’s Cheese Store and Tavern in Monroe, Wisconsin: the only city in America where Limburger cheese is still made.

Are you anywhere near Monroe?
Here is my first thought. Well, that didn't work well.


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## Jimganley (May 28, 2016)

The drawing looks good although I think I will keep the square corners as reaching that far is to much for may short arms also the height is going to be 38".

Here is what the room looks like, I am thinking about removing the closet.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Jimganley said:


> Well I am back and I apologize for being so vague I need some slack here I am an old man from the cheese state.


I'm a Cheesehead by birth. Madison (Lodi, actually). You can have all the slack you need.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

If that a power panel I see, there may be restrictions on anything being placed in front of it so that clear access is maintained.


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## Jimganley (May 28, 2016)

Thank you, I am in a town called Cushing 60 miles NE of Minneapolis. Do not think I am going to get anything done on the RR today have to work on my son's latest project a 92 binder semi hoping for it to be hauling containers by the end of OCT.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Jimganley said:


> Thank you, I am in a town called Cushing 60 miles NE of Minneapolis. Do not think I am going to get anything done on the RR today have to work on my son's latest project a 92 binder semi hoping for it to be hauling containers by the end of OCT.


That's pretty normal, too. We have great plans to work on the model train, until life gets in the way.


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## D&J Railroad (Oct 4, 2013)

Lemonhawk said:


> If that a power panel I see, there may be restrictions on anything being placed in front of it so that clear access is maintained.


That would be the case if he were remodeling the house with a building permit. Building a model railroad will not draw the attention of the Building Permits inspector, even if he invited the guy over to run trains. The layout is considered a temporary item.


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## richs75 (Jan 21, 2016)

I like this better. It gives you a turn around area on both ends of a dog bone track (with a twist), but still gives you access to the tracks, especially in that narrow little area next to the closet. I figured 18 inch minimum walkway, still leaving enough room for 2 tracks along each wall.



The little square with the X is a solid base to stand up on to reach the back wall or remove with a hole to reach up through to do track work or scenery then cover with a large building or mountain. I chose a solid, well braced area that I can actually knee on to do track work or scenery.

Just the basic main line track outline with plenty of areas for sidings or yards.


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## Jimganley (May 28, 2016)

Lemonhawk said:


> If that a power panel I see, there may be restrictions on anything being placed in front of it so that clear access is maintained.


That used to be a breaker box / service panel but it is now just a big junction block the breakers have been moved besides in WI you need no permit to do your own wiring but do need a Lic Plumber to fix your crapper.
OK just installed a new module which will go under the window, it is 72" X 30-5/8" and 33" from top to floor Next module will bring it back up.
Richs75 I am still up in the air about the closet weather I should leave it or tear it out sot of leaning on tearing it out except for the area where the breaker box used to be as I have a water line behind it on the outside wall.
I am going to try for a a classification yard but I do want one main line loop also I want mainly an urban type of industry with lots of moving cars.


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## Jimganley (May 28, 2016)

Here are the latest photos.


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## richs75 (Jan 21, 2016)

Yeah, tear out the closet up to the side of the door frame next to the old junction box. That will give you a lot more room for a turn around of track.


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## Bwells (Mar 30, 2014)

How are you going to manage a loop in the area by the hinge that is already built? Are you forseeing an out and back type run or continuous run? One thing I would suggest is to drill 1" holes, 2 of them, in each cross member before you nail them. Much easier when flat than after the fact. These are for wiring, no clamps, no zip ties, nothing. also easy to trace later on when (or if) trouble happens.


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## santafealltheway (Nov 27, 2012)

Bwells said:


> How are you going to manage a loop in the area by the hinge that is already built? Are you forseeing an out and back type run or continuous run? One thing I would suggest is to drill 1" holes, 2 of them, in each cross member before you nail them. Much easier when flat than after the fact. These are for wiring, no clamps, no zip ties, nothing. also easy to trace later on when (or if) trouble happens.


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## Bwells (Mar 30, 2014)

That drop down under the window will a great gorge with some nice bridges spanning it. Maybe a town below but no switching here. One more thought, with your 90 degree corners it will set the track back quite a ways from the fascia, maybe 6-8 inches. a small 45 would bring them out closer.


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## Jimganley (May 28, 2016)

Well had to do some land grabbing today, used my powers and did eminent domain on the closet,Here I have a problem though and that is to keep with my 30" depth and also able to keep a U shape and still get at my water lines.


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## redman88 (Nov 25, 2015)

Well I can't see the pictures but a lift out section that only gets lifted out when you need the water pips could by the answer


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## Chip (Feb 11, 2016)

Cut a hole on the other side of the wall for water pipe access, removable cover, WALLA!


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## Jimganley (May 28, 2016)

Here are the photos of the final layout I am trying to get the dimensions into either SCARM or AnyRail 6 and as soon as I can figue it out I will post a picture of it tomorrow I will finish up the decking and then lay foam down but I am not sure what thickness or color as the glue will react with some of it. I have 1/4" foam and enough to cover the table but it might be to thin any thoughts?


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## Bwells (Mar 30, 2014)

It appears that the water pipes were not needed! Looks good and big.


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## Jimganley (May 28, 2016)

I left just enough room so that I can squeeze into the area of the water pipes actually it is the outside spigot shutoff,


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## Bwells (Mar 30, 2014)

Two pipes for on outside spigot? You cut them off right? Is that Pex?


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## Jimganley (May 28, 2016)

That is an electric outlet that was in the closet wall


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## Jimganley (May 28, 2016)

After the decking is down what is the preferred thickness of extruded foam (pink) also what is used to hold it down that will not burn it?? Wow looking at the Menards web page the pink foam is like high dollar.


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## bluenavigator (Aug 30, 2015)

You can start with 1/2" foamboard. They come in 4'x8'. Since you are in WI, you are more likely to see 2" thick ones available. 

They varies in the thickness, depend where the location is. 

Also, it varies by individuals. I noticed that not all of the table is even. Possible some inclines and declines, there and here. You will need to consider the plan of attack on the table. 

Overkast and I have different plan of attacks. 

Overkast started with his 4'x8' table. (He is using N scale trains. Actually, it does not matter which scale being used. Just the reason for such small size of his table.) He started with one foamboard and started laying the corkbed and tracks. Then he laid another board and board as they were cut as needed. 

I went for different route. I laid 6 foamboards that are 1/2" thick together. Then cut into paths for the tracks to be laid. Only that I did that to put the pre-cut inclines from Woodland Scenics in there. My method might be waste of money. I did mine because I do not want to work on cutting/curving inclines/declines. I just wanted them to be perfect 2% grade so I would not be fussy. 

Others might have different approach/technique that works for them.


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## Jimganley (May 28, 2016)

I have a few more screws to set on the train deck then I will lay the foam I should say glue the foam to the deck or base, I have drilled holes in the stiffeners under the table. Where the foam meets the foam what is used for the seam, I am thinking Gorilla Tape


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## bluenavigator (Aug 30, 2015)

I would recommend the foam type cans instead of using tape. Easy to cut into the foamboards.


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## Jimganley (May 28, 2016)

you lost me on that one I am truly an air head today


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## bluenavigator (Aug 30, 2015)

You can use this one to fill in the seams - Foamboard-VOC-Adhesive by Loctite.

This one can work - "Great Stuff" foam can - Just go easy on this stuff because it does expand pretty good. Once it hardens, can shave the rest of foam. 

Hope someone would chime in for their suggestion.


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

I just filled the seams with joint compound and sanded it smooth when dry.

No tape, it will leave a ridge. 

Magic


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

No adhesive. Just sand it smooth. Use a rasp for gross material removal, then a sanding sponge.

If you have gaps, fill with WS foam putty (although drywall compound will work, too).


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