# AF 308 Updated 27 March



## Kelpieflyer (Jan 9, 2012)

Hey All,

Picked up a 308 for 20 bucks. Just needs a good cleaning and lube.

My question is that it does not have a jack panel but is connected by a wire harness. My maintenance manual shows a jack panel, but there is not one and it doesn't look like it ever had one.

Thanks,


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I would think you could add a jack panel. I bet the holes are there for one.
WOW!!! A 308, don't see many of them. Congrats.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

According to Gilbert Gallery, 308s made in 1956 only. Choo choo in boiler
but no smoke unit. By picture I could not see how wires were connected.


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## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

The 308 was only made in 1956 and had choo choo only, no smoke. AFAIK, they were all direct wired. You can probably add a smoke element if you get the missing parts for it. The chamber is there, but the inside is empty. It was offered in the 5610T set in 1956. It should have pul-mor on the front drivers. Most likely an error in the manual. 

Mopac types faster than I do!


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## Kelpieflyer (Jan 9, 2012)

Thanks for the info guys. I didnt know they existed until I saw it. I'll post some pictures.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

If you're going to restore it to factory, I have a choo choo only unit here somewhere.


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## Kelpieflyer (Jan 9, 2012)

Here's a picture. It has the choo-choo only in it that works. However, the pul-mor is on the rear drivers, not the front.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Nice looking unit. Not a common Atlantic. Congrats on the addition.


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## Kelpieflyer (Jan 9, 2012)

So it looks to have been re-wired at some point. Thinking about adding a jack panel to make things easier, but keep it as choo-choo only.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

A jack would make things easier. I am not fond of direct wired locos. I have a few. I am not a purist so I am not above changing things around.


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## AmFlyerFan (Jan 27, 2019)

It looks nice.
In the case of these 1 year models, are there stats somewhere on how many were produced?
I'm thinking that yearly production numbers for all AF stuff might have been kept. It's amazing how much stuff is still around being enjoyed.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

A nice 308. 
To answer the question all the factory production records were destroyed post bankruptcy in 1967. No one knows for sure how may of any product number were sold. Educated guesses have been made in the past.
The best compilation of relative rarity was an undertaking by Bob Bubeck and Dave Garrigues in a book published by TM Books. The 308 is assigned a rarity of (3). That means they are hard to find, but not truly rare. Some other (3) engines are the 295, 315 and the 405.


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## AmFlyerFan (Jan 27, 2019)

Thanx. Too bad those records weren't kept.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I too have wondered about production numbers. But have not found any. Like you said there are bunches still around. Production is probably higher than we think.


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## AFGP9 (Apr 8, 2015)

Kelpieflyer said:


> Here's a picture. It has the choo-choo only in it that works. However, the pul-mor is on the rear drivers, not the front.


I'm a little late to the party on comments but that is a nice looking 308 you have there. Gives me hope that I might find one after all. A 308 is on my list of "wants". I have several in the 300 numbering list but no 308. Since that was a one year production locomotive, they are hard to find. I have gotten to the point that I would buy one running or not! I'll keep lookin'. 

Kenny


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## alaft61ri (Oct 11, 2019)

Very nice 308 good luck with it enjoy.


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## Kelpieflyer (Jan 9, 2012)

Got it apart. Looks like someone re-wired it to bypass the reverse unit. I'm going to go ahead and re-wire it and use a jack panel. I don't like the direct wired engines.

Shell says it was manufactured March of 1956. The shell has some damage. Anyone know how to repair the studs that are cracked and broken?


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I used JB Weld to repair the holes/studs. Mine were broken worse than yours.
One half inch of some studs were broke off. Built them up and carefully drilled
new holes. They work fine.


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## Kelpieflyer (Jan 9, 2012)

mopac said:


> I used JB Weld to repair the holes/studs. Mine were broken worse than yours.
> One half inch of some studs were broke off. Built them up and carefully drilled
> new holes. They work fine.


How did you do it? I thought of using a plastic straw to extend the broken stud and then tap it.


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## rrswede (Jan 6, 2012)

kelpie, I have repaired many broken posts using a large plastic drinking straw as you mention. I break away any loose plastic hanging onto the post, cut a straw to a length slightly longer than the post, slit it lengthwise, placing it around the post, loosely tape the straw to the shell (secure but room for JB Weld to flow onto the surface of the "good" part of the post), fill the straw with JB Weld, and stick a round toothpick into the JB Weld deep enough to extend into the remaining threaded hole in the post. After the JB Weld is thoroughly set, I remove the straw, break the toothpick, file the repaired post to its proper length, center punch the toothpick, drill a pilot hole and then drill with the proper sized bit. 

swede


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## AFGP9 (Apr 8, 2015)

rrswede said:


> kelpie, I have repaired many broken posts using a large plastic drinking straw as you mention. I break away any loose plastic hanging onto the post, cut a straw to a length slightly longer than the post, slit it lengthwise, placing it around the post, loosely tape the straw to the shell (secure but room for JB Weld to flow onto the surface of the "good" part of the post), fill the straw with JB Weld, and stick a round toothpick into the JB Weld deep enough to extend into the remaining threaded hole in the post. After the JB Weld is thoroughly set, I remove the straw, break the toothpick, file the repaired post to its proper length, center punch the toothpick, drill a pilot hole and then drill with the proper sized bit.
> 
> swede


Good advise on how to repair a screw hole. I have done it a little differently with mixed results. I coated the screw with WD-40, put it in what was left of the screw hole then used JB Weld around it. My thought was that by coating the screw as I did, it could be taken out easily. That has worked on 3 out of 4 holes. One of them split and I had to do it all over again. I've also used 3 in One oil with the JB Weld instead of WD-4 on other broken screw holes. It seems to work better. I like the straw idea though. 

Kenny


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## AFGP9 (Apr 8, 2015)

Mopac I agree with you. I too have 2 direct wired engines. I have wanted to convert them to a jack panel as well. Nothing stopping me but time to do it. I guess as long as they run I'll leave them be. That is still a project for the future. Got too many other more pressing repairs to make. One thing at a time. 

Kenny


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## phmo (Feb 2, 2012)

Another method is explained here.

http://www.precisionflyerrepairs.com/af-steamer-body-post-repair.html

PHM


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## AmFlyerFan (Jan 27, 2019)

phmo said:


> Another method is explained here.
> 
> http://www.precisionflyerrepairs.com/af-steamer-body-post-repair.html
> 
> PHM


A Handy tutorial, complements whats been posted. Thanx.

What size drill did U use to redrill holes? (did I miss it) Those little ones are very hard to read.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

One thing I think we can agree on is JB weld is the material
to rebuild the holes/studs. I did not have a straw big enough
so just built them up with no form. They work great. Not pretty
but functional. I do not remember what size bit I used. It was
just slightly smaller than screw. Then used screw to cut new
threads. Slowly. I just tighten screws snug. If you try to tighten 
to tight I would be afraid of pulling the threads out. I broke my
studs out by using too big of screws. As the studs broke I used bigger screws. I got all the correct screws from Jeff Kane at 
"the Train Tender.com". I got this 282 loco when I was 5 years old
so anything was possible. I would keep drill as straight up and
down as possible. I busted one repaired hole out by not doing that. And had to redo.

Another thing I did with JB Weld was built a front step. It was broke off clean with cow catcher. As you can see in pic it looks
fine.


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## rrswede (Jan 6, 2012)

Kelpie, the first drill bit was 1/16", just a bit smaller than the diameter of the toothpick. The second drill bit was 5/64", a little bigger than the diameter of the toothpick. The final drill bit was 7/64", slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the screws. 

Like mopac, I used the screws to create the threads, slowly tightening a bit, then reversing a bit, tightening again, etc. I stopped when the screw was slightly more than the thickness of the motor locking tab away from seating against the post. 

Once the motor was installed for the final time, I gently tightened the screws as mopac indicated, seating the tabs and screws against the posts. Over tightening is always a no no with plastic but I think it is more forgiving than JB Weld. Do not over tighten!

swede


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Visit Wendy's for those big straws before they get outlawed.


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## Kelpieflyer (Jan 9, 2012)

Well, I tried the jb weld method and it kept breaking off the shell when I was drilling it, so I drilled to post a bit deeper and used a longer screw. It worked, but I am going to have to be careful with the engine to not risk another break.

On a good note, I finished rewiring it using the jack panel and it works great. I rebuilt the e-unit using Flyernut's suggestions, oiled it and it is working flawlessly.
Thanks Flyernut for your e-unit help.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Sounds like that 308 is coming along. Good job. I had to redo some post holes also. Mine broke out
if I did not keep drill very straight up and down. And run drill slow.

flyernut always has great how to advice. He is like E F Hutton. When he speaks I listen.


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## Kelpieflyer (Jan 9, 2012)

I must be doing something wrong. I used a drill press and everything.


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## chrisallen21 (Sep 1, 2016)

mopac said:


> One thing I think we can agree on is JB weld is the material
> to rebuild the holes/studs. I did not have a straw big enough
> so just built them up with no form.


@mopac 
I have a similar problem. I can't find a straw that is big enough on the outside to put the JBWeld beside the toothpick. 








Canada has decided to outlaw single use plastic as of 2022 (straws being one of them) so it is difficult to even get straws these days (you get these bio-degradable straws to disintegrate after about 20 minutes of initial use). 
Are you saying you just put the toothpick in and build the JBWeld around it free form and then drilled when cured? I am also guessing about the level of how high up on the shell to put the JBWeld (e.g. in relation to the height of the other holes, how far up should I put the JBWeld). I suspect some of this is trial-and-error and I can just cut down what I don't need with a dremmel or some tool like that so that it fits properly when attached to the bottom frame.


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## alaft61ri (Oct 11, 2019)

If your useing a 4-40 screw tap drill .093 or 3/32 same for 4-48 screw. If you Google tap drill chart it will come up and give screw size and drill. 
Al


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

I use a #31 drill, (.120) for the front engine mount screw holes.


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## AF-Doc' (Dec 21, 2013)

AFGP9 said:


> I'm a little late to the party on comments but that is a nice looking 308 you have there. Gives me hope that I might find one after all. A 308 is on my list of "wants". I have several in the 300 numbering list but no 308. Since that was a one year production locomotive, they are hard to find. I have gotten to the point that I would buy one running or not! I'll keep lookin'.
> 
> Kenny


Kenny, I just saw two 308's on eBay. They both look like they need some linkage help and appear to be hardwired.


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## alaft61ri (Oct 11, 2019)

Saw those too.


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## AFGP9 (Apr 8, 2015)

Doug Oconnor said:


> Kenny, I just saw two 308's on eBay. They both look like they need some linkage help and appear to be hardwired.


I'll check them out Thanks for the heads up.


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## AF-Doc' (Dec 21, 2013)

I'm an early am guy and love the hunt.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Be careful of that 308 shell..It's a repo with 308 stamped on it. Look close, it has a cast-in-plastic bell and I believe a whistle.....


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## AF-Doc' (Dec 21, 2013)

I'm tracking one from ray916 and Trainz. The bell and whistle on both seem to be metal like on my 302, 303, & 307. My 21160 has the molded plastic ones. Or am I just missing something?


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## AF-Doc' (Dec 21, 2013)

flyernut said:


> Be careful of that 308 shell..It's a repo with 308 stamped on it. Look close, it has a cast-in-plastic bell and I believe a whistle.....


Yes the one from amathhobby looks to be a 21160 shell that is most defiantly not a 308 shell. It matches the 21107 further down the in listings. Good catch.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

308 shells are black plastic painted black. The bell and whistle are metal.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

AF-Doc' said:


> Yes the one from amathhobby looks to be a 21160 shell that is most defiantly not a 308 shell. It matches the 21107 further down the in listings. Good catch.


The reason I know this is I bought a NOS(?) 302 shell from this seller, and it also had the plastic and whistle molded into the boiler..Buyer beware!


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## AFGP9 (Apr 8, 2015)

I checked all 3 of the eBay 308's and will pass. Strange that 2 of them, the ray916 and the Trainz, don't have all the side rods. 

Kenny


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

AFGP9 said:


> I checked all 3 of the eBay 308's and will pass. Strange that 2 of them, the ray916 and the Trainz, don't have all the side rods.
> 
> Kenny


Side rods are easy to get.. Just remember, there are 2 different lengths, short ones for Pacific's, long ones for Atlantic's... I meant to say cross-heads.


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## AFGP9 (Apr 8, 2015)

No problem. I knew what you meant. I consider that when I saw those 308's. 
How's that street rod coming? Are you familiar with the weather stations that are used by some drag racers? When I was seriously drag racing to help tune the jetting and other such tuning I bought one. Not cheap but necessary. It makes a great layout monitoring unit for your layout room with regards to humidity control and how that might affect your track on your layout and other things, especially if you have a basement layout. 


Kenny


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

AFGP9 said:


> No problem. I knew what you meant. I consider that when I saw those 308's.
> How's that street rod coming? Are you familiar with the weather stations that are used by some drag racers? When I was seriously drag racing to help tune the jetting and other such tuning I bought one. Not cheap but necessary. It makes a great layout monitoring unit for your layout room with regards to humidity control and how that might affect your track on your layout and other things, especially if you have a basement layout.
> 
> 
> Kenny


Many of us had the small weather stations. You kept a book detailing gate, time, temperature, and humidity.. At my local track we ran E.T. races.


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