# Lionel 1668 streamliner -- another one for TJ



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Hi guys,

I picked up another prewar Lionel 1668 streamliner loco at the Greenberg's Wilmington, MA show back in November ... got it cheap ... I think $20. The seller said that the motor was in running condition (more or less!), and most of the trip/bits on the loco appeared to be there.

(Sidetracked ... more to come ...)

OK ... back now ...

As I inpected and considered the loco at the show, that only thing that seemed odd was that the motor was mounted all cocked-over or twisted in the shell. The wheels were not parallel to the actual loco. I figured a mount tab hadn't been position right, or something like that. Anyway, for the $20, I took a chance and brought the loco home.

Here's what I found, and here's what I'm now doing to the old guy ...


Here's the loco, as found. At some point in the late 1930's, Lionel dropped the "E" designation from the nameplates, even though the locos did have an actual e-unit.










Here's the problem that first jumped out ... the motor was all twisted over in misalignment from the shell ...










On my bench, I pulled the motor out of the shell and found that the motor had the "paper clip style" brushplate / springs. My other 1668 had a can-style brushplate with coil springs.










If you look closely, you can see where some prior owner drilled and tapped a second mount hole on the motor's crossbar (left side of photo). This essentially cocked the rear end of the motor over sideways, to compensate for the oversized brushplate.










As it was, the brass spring holders on this style of brushplate are NOT original to the 1668. And, they stick out too much, to the point where they would bump into the inside of the shell, if the motor was installed with proper alignment. As a (crude) first attempt at a fix, I used a Dremel to grind down some of the brass brush holder fittings a bit, along with some grinding to the inside of the shell.



















My grinding worked a bit ... enough to provide adequate clearance to install the motor back in its original (proper alignment) mount hole, but just barely. The brass brush holder was just a paper-width away from the inside of the shell, and if they touch at all, I'd be shorting out the motor. And, the grinding was a crude bastardized fix. The better way to do this would be to order a proper "can style" brushplate holder. So, after mulling this over for a bit, that's what I did ... called Jeff at the Train Tender, and had him send me a proper brushplate.


Here's the new brushplate from Jeff. The mount holes and alignment "nubs" are identical for these two types of brushplates: paper clip vs. can style. In terms of mounting to a motor, they are essentially interchangeable.










I had him send me springs and brushes, too. The brushes here are smaller in diameter than the "paper clip style" above, and they have shoulders, too. For anyone ordering these "can style" brushes/springs from Jeff, please note: The springs Jeff has are a bit too long. If you use them as-is, and compress the brush all the way into the can, it protrudes from the can face too much ... to the point where it would jam into the armature. The fix (with Jeff's blessing) is to trim the springs about 3 or 4 coil loops. You want the brush to be flush with the brushplate when it's pushed all the way in.










While I had the motor out and apart, I thought I'd give it a good cleaning and rewire. Here, the two leads to the old brushplate have been unsoldered, and I'm mapping the remaining wire runs ...










To wire a new center-rail pickup, one can remove the nameplate by unbending its 4 tabs. This exposed two small metal grommet holes that pierce the pickup shoe plate (on the inside of the fiber plate). Use a solder iron to unmelt the old wire attachment, exposing a true hole through the grommet. From here, you can pass a new wire end through the hole (inside the motor), and resolder the new feed on.










I removed the e-unit, and gave the remaining motor a thorough cleaning with GooGone, pipe cleaners, and the like. Commutator on armature all nice and shiny ... 










With the e-unit removed, and the new brushplate/brushes installed, I use jumper leads to test the motor. Red power from center rail to one brush can; black jumper from other brush can over to one (ungrounded) end of field coil; and green jumper from motor frame (connected to other end of field coil) back to the track's outer rail. With a few drops of oil, the motor ran nicely!










Here, I'm putting the motor back in the shell, but using the original tapped hole on the mount bar. The "can style" brushplate gives adequate clearance with the shell, and the motor aligns nicely.











Lots more to do ... more to come ...


TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

No 1689E ????


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I wish! None I could find for $20, though!


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Tj looking good. Thanks for the step by step. It will come in handy soon .


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## BWA (Jun 16, 2012)

Nice job. Mine is on the bench right now.

BTW, if the brush housing had shorted to the body, you wouldn't have shorted the motor, only the track.

At the point of the short, the entire motor would be completely out of the circuit, and, not affected.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

BWA said:


> Nice job. Mine is on the bench right now.


Thanks ... great ... another prewar streamliner! Nice to hear.

Your point about the short is noted. The brushplate was so close to the shell (less than a paper width, at best) ... and it wasn't original ... so ... it's now in the junk bin, with the new one installed.

TJ


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

*1668 Motor Rewired*

I spent the afternoon rewiring the motor and e-unit, and cleaning all of the e-unit guts in the process. Nice new cloth-covered wire throughout (with the exception of new rubber-coated wire on the run to the headlamp socket).

After stripping down and rewiring an e-unit, I always get a bit nervous with the test run back on the track. "Will it run through all 8 cycles OK?" I got lucky this time ... she runs perfectly ... nice and smooth.

Cheers,

TJ


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## BWA (Jun 16, 2012)

Nice job, I have wire envy.

Where do you get that wire, from the Tender guy???


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Wow, Looks like its new from the factory.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Thanks!

Yup, 22-guage cloth-covered, single-strand wire (just like original) from Jeff at Train Tender.

(I was originally using 24-gauge from Jeff, but the stuff is thin and fragile. The 22-gauge stuff is much better.)

TJ


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Tj, how do you go about cleaning the e unit? I was just wiping them with a litle alcohol and for the most part they just worked. Untill now, I have a 1668e. The e unit works sporadicly.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Also just finished your 1668 thread nice work. Looks new. How do you go about removing and reinstall ing the wheels?. I cannot search for threads on my new phone, or post pics and the computers been down


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

SJM,

In most cases, I opt to disassemble the e-unit for a full service ... easy access to the drum, finger, and a rewire while I'm at it. That all takes a bit of practice, though. Actually, taking it all apart is the easy part ... it's getting everything aligned and snapped back together that takes a bit of patience ... or "27 fingers", as I've said!

But in lieu of disassembing the e-unit, my suggestion for cleaning is to use GooGone and pipe cleaners. Be very careful around the contact fingers, though ... if you bend them out of position (remove their contact with drum), you'll need to rebend them back, and that's tricky to do with the drum in position.

A tiny cut-off sliver of a soft ScotchBrite pad can help to degunk the drum ... used in conjunction with the GooGone, too.

I don't think I removed the drive wheels on this 1668, but I have done it on several other locos. My method is a poor-man's simple one ...

I grab a set of wheels in my hand ... left wheel in one hand, right in the other, Then, with patience, I twist each in opposing directions with outward pressure, and then flip my twisting direction ... twist/pull to left, then twist/pull to right. Repeat. Repeat. Not always, but most times, this simple approach will remove a set of prewar wheels.

To reinstall, I lay the motor on its side with one wheel/axle on the bottom (axle facing up). Then, I place the loose wheel on the exposed axle, and tap it into position using a wood block and a mallet. I make sure I'm hitting the wood block dead-center over the wheel. The wood block has a bore to fit over any drive-wheel-stud protrustions on the wheel.

If you reinstall wheels, make sure you get their "quartering position" aligned properly.

Hope that helps,

TJ


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Thanks tj, it helps a lot. My back wheel is a little loose. And I will try to clean the e unit first. As I said before my hands are like baseball mitts. Having 27 of them wouldn't help me much!


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Tj cleaning the e unit worked. It dosent freeze up now! Is there any way to tighten up a loose wheel? I can pull tbem and order new ones if need be. I tried to tighten the wheel with a wood clamp with even pressure but it still pops out a bit and binds on the shell.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I pulled the wheel off and added a little gasket sealer. Hope it works.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Glad to hear the e-unit is working nicely.

To tighten a loose wheel, I remove the wheel (first), and then "knurl" the end of the axle by squeezing it in the "waffle jaw" of a Vice Grips a bit. That induces bumps/dings on the end of the axle which will better grab the inside diameter of the wheel.

Be careful doing this, though ... you don't want to "knurl" so much that the axle will no longer fit (during reinstall) through the wheel axle bearings/bushings.

Your sealer or Loctite can work wonders, too!

Make sure the wheel is aligned / quartered properly for drive rod alignment.

TJ


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

It runs like a champ. Quite and kicks butt going uphill. Thanks for all the help. I just fixed another eng ( just needed the e unit cleaned out and new wires, ill do the wires tomorrow if I have time. ) . One day I'm going to have to tackle a full restore of the 1688e. I learned a lot from your posts but I'm not there yet!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

SJM,

Glad to hear the good news. Just out of curiosity, is your 1688 an older one (early 1930's) with the e-unit slot mid-length, or a newer one (late 1930's) with the e-unit slot further aft toward the cab? Fiber motor bottom or plastic/bakelite motor bottom?

TJ


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Tj , the e- unit is mid mount. The motor bottom is fiber. I thought it looked like cardboard. Its pretty beat up on one side the other side is almost perfect. It came with some other cars I don't know what eng the set belongs with yet. I think its by itself as the tender I have is black and I think matches the 1666. ( pre war also?)


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

That's an earlier-generation 1688. The 1688's were paired with either the 1689T (no whistle) or 1689W (whistle) tenders.

The 1688 (or 1688E) was available in the 1069E and 1069W passenger sets (2 x 1690 and 1 x 1691 cars), and in the 1070E and 1070W freight sets (1679, 1680, 1682 cars). Possibly other sets, too.

Yes, 1666 prewar ... but also postwar, too. One of the few produced both pre/post.

TJ


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

The tender is a 2689w, cars 2657 , 2655, 2632. I think they go with the 1666. The 1666 also has the fiber bottom. Its good to know the age, but better to know the still run well. The 1688e was pulling 4 heavy cars and a tender easily. ( with loads).


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

The 2 designation (2689W vs. 1689W, for example) indicates that Lionel had added automatic couplers to the cars at that point ... late 1930's / early 1940's.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Cool thanks.


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## Prarie242 (Mar 5, 2014)

Hi Tj, thanks for posting these 1668 pics. From everything ive seen so far, i think the motor in my 221 is a 1668 motor. On the 1668, the front truck appears to attach to the bracket on the front of the shell and not the motor. Does the front end of the motor attach to this bracket also? It looks like the two small tabs on the front of the motor frame slide into slots on that main front bracket on the 1668 shell. Is that right?

Im now looking for not only a 221 motor but also a 1668 shell. Any help appreciated.

Thanks!


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Tj has not been around too much lately. I'll see if I can dig mine out. There are different types as tj pointed out. I'm not sure if the motor is the same in both of them and just reversed or if they are different.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

The front trucks do attache to the front bracket. The motor also slides into the bracket and is just held in place by the 2 tabs in the picture. The bracket can be removed by two screws on the outside of the shell


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

sjm9911 said:


> Tj has not been around too much lately.


That's a masterpiece of understatement! :dunno: He hasn't been here since October 2013!


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## Prarie242 (Mar 5, 2014)

Thanks for the picture, sjm. Thats exactly what i was looking for. 

If you still have your 1668 out, are the small driver rods that attach to the shell attached with a rivet or a screw?

I just got a 1668 shell to go with my motor. Needs cleaned up and refinished, but at least i have one now. Now i just need to find a 221 motor...

Thanks for the help


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I














, I'm keeping you thread alive till you return, not the same quality work, but any shelter in a storm. 

I shot some side pictures, this was one of my first repaints, I like it. Is this what you mean? The drive rods are a hex head screw. These are original, but missing the rod between the wheels. The train tender probably has them, and when I next order from them I'm sure to forget to order them!


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## Prarie242 (Mar 5, 2014)

Wow. Nice repaint! Its looks like you may be missing those rods and maybe different for different vintages as well. I think the 1668E is a little different. There is a small hole just in front of the 1668E number plate where a rivit or screw goes in that holds a small rod that goes down to the main ones. Not sure of the E had those or not though.


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## Prarie242 (Mar 5, 2014)

If you look at the start of this thread about the 6th picture in of TJs, shows a good pic of what im looking for. Just cant tell how they are attached from that pic.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

No the rods just go into a slot on the cross section, no screw, bolt, just slide in.


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## Prarie242 (Mar 5, 2014)

I think the rods are different between the 1668 and 1668E. Mine looks more similar to TJs. The driving rod hardware is different it looks like.


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## santafe158 (Jul 14, 2010)

That locomotive never had side rods (the rods between the wheels). What you have is how it was when it came new from the factory. In order to install drive rods up to the front wheels you'd have to pull the front wheels and reinstall them so they align with the back ones.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Yes, now looking at tj's it is different. Sant fe thanks for the info. I figured it had the rods between the wheels because of the spot in the rear wheel. They might just have made one wheel and put it on multiple trains. They did make a few different versions as tj said.


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## santafe158 (Jul 14, 2010)

sjm9911 said:


> Yes, now looking at tj's it is different. Sant fe thanks for the info. I figured it had the rods between the wheels because of the spot in the rear wheel. They might just have made one wheel and put it on multiple trains. They did make a few different versions as tj said.



Correct. Yours was a more stripped down model. Some of the more expensive ones had the extra rod details (I believe the ones with the 6 wheel motors had that), but all used the same shell. You can see some of the holes where various screws and things would go to mount the motor and rods on the other variations


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Hi guys ... back (briefly) from the ABYSS. Thanks for keeping the thread alive with your own restoration work!

FYI, though ... that's a 1688 you have above, not a 1668. Similar shell, but 2-4-2 wheel config, instead of 2-6-2 wheel config.

Cheers,

TJ


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## Prarie242 (Mar 5, 2014)

Looks to me if ebay is any judge that the 1688 is the 4 wheeled motor, and the 1668 is the six.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Looks like TJ is correct here.

Lionel 1668











Lionel 1688


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## Prarie242 (Mar 5, 2014)

Well, i think were both right. The pics with The long driving rods is a 1688 as he says and a 2-4-2. And as i said in my last post and your pictures show the 1688 has the 4 wheeled motor and the 1668 has the 6 wheeled motor.

Question on th front truck on the 1668. It may be the same on the 1688. In some pictures ive seen, it looks like there is a thin plate just underneath the front truck between it and the engine mount. What is that for and what does it look like? Does it ride in the big curved slot in the engine mount plate?


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

It's a spring plate, to exert downward pressure on the front truck. The 1668 has it, but both of my 1688's do not.

Pic in this thread:

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showpost.php?p=24345&postcount=1

TJ


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## Prarie242 (Mar 5, 2014)

Thanks TJ. I just got a 1668 and it hasn't arrived yet. Not sure if it has that piece or not. Does the spring plate ride in the big curved groove on the engine mount plate?

Btw, It looks like i misread your initial back from the abyss post on 1688/1668 and what was what. Old eyes and old brain trying to use this little ipad. Sorry for the confusion.


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## Prarie242 (Mar 5, 2014)

The reason i ask about the front truck is there is a "1668/238E " shell on ebay that has a 4 wheel front truck, which i think is a 238e but it has a similar engine mounting plate with that big curved slot in it and it looks like the front truck on that one has a big pin that rides in that curved slot. I wonder if the 1668 has a similar arrangement and if thats what that big curved slot is for or if that slot isnt used on the 1668.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Prarie,

Though the 1668 and the 238 look similar in stye, they do NOT share the same shell, and are rather different locos. The 238 is MUCH bigger than the 1688/1668 family.

For a closer look at the 238 (including trucks), and a photo-comparison to the smaller 1668, see here:

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=9164&highlight=238

Cheers,

TJ


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## Prarie242 (Mar 5, 2014)

Thanks, TJ. Wow, big difference!

Are the way the front trucks ride in that big curved slot the same between the two? It looks like the 238 truck support actually rides in that slot, where the 1668 does not? Not sure.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Off topic here, I was bidding on a lot of these last week but it got too expensive. Prarie, I would of had your shell. There was 10 shells and 5 others with engines. All different. It went over 200$, more then I wanted to pay for beat up stuff that might have worked. If I see anything I'll let you know. And your lucky tj popped in, he is the expert.


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## Rabbitman (Jan 24, 2014)

tjcruiser said:


> I spent the afternoon rewiring the motor and e-unit, and cleaning all of the e-unit guts in the process. Nice new cloth-covered wire throughout (with the exception of new rubber-coated wire on the run to the headlamp socket).
> 
> After stripping down and rewiring an e-unit, I always get a bit nervous with the test run back on the track. "Will it run through all 8 cycles OK?" I got lucky this time ... she runs perfectly ... nice and smooth.
> 
> ...


 I never gave much thought to these older engines but seeing these on here and how they can be brought back is really starting to grow on me now. And no circuit boards to deal with. Looks like fun knowing you're holding something that's even older than you are and what it might have been doing or where it was way back then. If they could only talk about their past, lot's of history to those little things. I think I want one now


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Go for it. It's really fun to get an old, dirty, rusted, wire-frayed motor to run again. And you're right ... they are quite simple in their mechanics. But very durable, at that. I have yet to find a prewar motor that I couldn't get running again with a little t.l.c.

I seriously doubt today's microchip plastic stuff will be running in 80+ years!

Cheers,

TJ


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

TJ in your post that is quoted, what do you mean by this when you asked, "Will it run through all 8 cycles OK?"?

8 cycles?


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Ed, the standard e-unit drum (with it's gear teeth) has two sets of fwd-neutral-reverse-neutral within one full rotation of the drum. I.e., teeth. So, one can get OK operatoin of the first fwd-neutral-reverse-neutral on one-half of the drum rotation, but not the other.

When I'm debugging e-units, I always count power on-off cycles in 8 steps. If there's a problem with one operation (let's say it won't go in reverse), I use the 8-step cycle to narrow down where the problem is ... i.e., usually one finger not touching the copper on teh drum properly.

Does that help?

TJ


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

tjcruiser said:


> Ed, the standard e-unit drum (with it's gear teeth) has two sets of fwd-neutral-reverse-neutral within one full rotation of the drum. I.e., teeth. So, one can get OK operatoin of the first fwd-neutral-reverse-neutral on one-half of the drum rotation, but not the other.
> 
> When I'm debugging e-units, I always count power on-off cycles in 8 steps. If there's a problem with one operation (let's say it won't go in reverse), I use the 8-step cycle to narrow down where the problem is ... i.e., usually one finger not touching the copper on teh drum properly.
> 
> ...


OK....Thanks.


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## Yukon Jack (Feb 1, 2014)

I have a 1688 that has an odd "issue." When power is applied, the headlight comes on, but the motor or the e-unit just buzzes. If I cycle the e unit with the manual switch, the loco will take off and make a short run and then stop. Repeating the above procedure will again produce a short run. I assume this is a problem in the e unit. I tried cleaning the e unit with contact cleaner, but no joy. Any suggestions would be most appreciated! Thanks.

Roger


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

When you talk manual lever, you refer to the one on the loco correct? That's the on/off switch for the e-unit. When the lever is in contact with the rivet it buzzes and will cycle when power is interrupted, and not contacting it locks to the last position be it neutral, forward or reverse. Do you have another loco to run, for a test to rule out track connections? I have successfully cleaned drums with a q-tip and small strips of 800 sand paper followed by either IA or contact cleaner. I had one loco that would cycle f-n-r then had to tap the direction button a few time then it would run. Cleaning the drum and oiling to pivot points cleared it up. Typically, I lock mine in forward only as that's what I do most for the time being.

Carl


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## santafe158 (Jul 14, 2010)

It sounds like it's losing power briefly and cycling the e-unit to neutral. Check your pickup rollers/sliders and wheels and make sure they and your track are good and clean.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

All good advice, make sure the fingers of the e unit are clean and touching the drum also. In addition check to make sure the plunger is cycling.


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## Yukon Jack (Feb 1, 2014)

Thanks for the suggestions, gents. I did clean the e-unit with contact cleaner and a Q tip. It does act like it is dropping into neutral. Cycling the on/off switch on the locomotive e-unit gets it to start up again, but not for long! The track is clean, and my other engines run fine over it. I will clean and inspect the pickups and see if that helps. I appreciate the help, and will report on progress.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Based upon what you've said, I'd suspect one (or more) of the little copper fingers in the e-unit are bent out of alignment on the drum, or the drum itself is worn.

If you have a few minutes, take a look at the two-part e-unit service video that's linked here on the forum (do a quick Search to find it) ... it explains the functionality of the e-unit nicely.

TJ


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## Yukon Jack (Feb 1, 2014)

tjcruiser said:


> Based upon what you've said, I'd suspect one (or more) of the little copper fingers in the e-unit are bent out of alignment on the drum, or the drum itself is worn.
> 
> If you have a few minutes, take a look at the two-part e-unit service video that's linked here on the forum (do a quick Search to find it) ... it explains the functionality of the e-unit nicely.
> 
> TJ


Pulled the motor out again, and connected leads. Interesting! The darn thing worked just fine. Put it back in the body and same old story. Can't find anything grounding on the body. Put it back and it seemed to run fine for a bit, then went back to dropping into neutral. I was able to lock it into forward, and it does fine there. One thing I did notice is that the rear motor mount seems to be missing a spacer? The front mount fits flush side to side, but the rear has about a 1/4 inch gap on one side. The motor does not seem to shift, but it just does not seem right with that gap

Watched the two part video. Very instructive! It may be something in the e-unit. I will pull it apart when I get time this week, and take a closer look at that e-unit.

Thanks for your patience gents!

Roger


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

On some locos, I put a thin piece of soft craft foam (like 1/16" thick) between the top of the motor and the underside of the shell to prevent motor-to-shell inadvertent grounding. Check for shorts around the internal headlamp wire / socket, too.

Can you post a few pics of the motor mount gap issue, to clarify?

TJ


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## Yukon Jack (Feb 1, 2014)

*Lionel 1688*

Hi, TJ.

Here are some pics of the gap in the rear motor mount. 

View of motor:


Motor mount on the left side:


Motor mount on the right side:


Thanks for your help on this!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Jack,

There are several different versions of the 1688, with an evolution of motors and motor-mount styles. You have the later generation, with the bakelite-bottom motor and a side-threaded rear mount.

I don't have one exactly like that, myself, however, one of my 1688's with a Jr-style motor does have a similar side-threaded rear mount. On that, I put some thick plastic washer on the threaded rod to ensure that the WHEELS were centered in the loco shell. (Remember, that the motor itself is NOT centered, as one set of wheels has a gear.) Judging by your photos, you may only need some plastic washer(s) on one side.

Hope that helps a bit,

TJ

PS -- to avoid confusion for others, this is a sidebar discussion on the 2-4-2 1688 loco, inserted here into the 2-6-2 1668 thread.


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## Yukon Jack (Feb 1, 2014)

Thanks, TJ! I hope I didn't drag this thread too far OT! 

I will experiment with some spacers.

YJ


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

*Back in the saddle*

Well, this 1668 rehab project of mine has been collecting dust for quite some time, but as I walked by the pieces the other day, I heard some ghosts calling out to me. (I had previously done a nice rehab on the motor, but the shell has set untouched.)

The cast metal shell had a common problem ... after a few past-life hard derails, the lower cab steps were bent in considerably on each side:










I've shied away on how to fix them, as I've been fearful of any rebend inadvertently cracking the brittle metal shell.

But, wiser souls than I have said that if you push / pull the metal GENTLY over a period of several days, the metal will become ductile, and flex back into proper position gradually. Being somewhat of a skeptic, I figured I'd give it a shot anyway. I mounted the shell with some small Quick Grip clamps pulling outward on the bent steps from opposite directions. A gentle pull ... and I gave the Grips a little snug every day or so for about a week.










And ... ???

Ureka! It worked ... wonderfully. And it couldn't have been easier. Straight and true.










Now that I've mastered this Ancient Ritual, I think I'll try it on a second-cousin 1688 shell ...











Cheers,

TJ


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

And I bet that every time you gave it another twist you closed your eyes and waited for the sound of a SNAP.

Good ideal with the clamps, now I wonder if over time the bends will reform itself?


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Nice tj, it looks much better! The slow bend method does work.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I went gentle, Ed ... there's not much force that one can induce with those tiny Quick Grips.

To all of those who've touted The Slow Bend Method, I tip my hat with thanks!

TJ

(I see in my middle pic that the right, middle window divider is bowed out just a bit ... I might do a little Slow Bend on that, too!)


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Here's that 1688 shell (shown a few posts above) with its cab steps straightened out using the "slow bend" method. Easy ... I'm amazed this works as well as it does!

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

That worked very well TJ, looks original!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I gotta tip my hat to a few bright guys here on the forum who suggested this "slow bend" method. I'm really amazed that it works so well and easily!

TJ


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I'm pulling another work project out of mothballs and (finally) getting this 1668E back together.

I fully stripped the shell (and a 1689T tender, too) to bare metal, then did a buff, prime, and repaint with Duplicolor Gunmetal BGM0344 (per Teledoc Jerry's recommendations).

Here's the shell components, fresh out of the "paint shop" ...

*Update -- I should note that one 8-ounce can of the DupliColor Gunmetal spray paint was just enough to provide nice-coat coverage on the inside and outside shell components of one 1668 shell and one 1689T tender (frame and shell). It got the job done, but not much left over in the can. You might want to have a spare can on hand.*

Cheers,

TJ


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## Guest (Nov 8, 2018)

Looks terrific, TJ. Thanks for sharing.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Thank you! More soon to come!


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Nice tj, now we need a Christmas version!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Looks brand new, very nice painting.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Thanks, guys!

Finally ... ALL DONE! This was a lengthy, sit-on-the-shelf project, but I finally found a little batch of inspiration. The 1668 is all back together, along with a mated 1689T tender. (Not sure about that box coupler, but it's what I had in the parts bin.)

She runs like a charm, but will spent much of her time sitting proudly on the display table with the rest of her stablemates.

Another one lives!

Cheers,

TJ


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Looks like brand new again, and I think the Duplicolor paint is as close to the original, that I could find. I hope you are happy with the results.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

That there is sure a shiny little locomotive!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Very happy with the results, Jerry. I think I paid $20 for the 1668, and with a little t.l.c. and some minor parts, she's nearly as good as new.

I do have a much larger 238 in the queue ... spend a few more $ to acquire that. For that one, I might try the true-color Lionel paint available from a few suppliers. More expensive, but I suspect it won't have the 'metallic sparkle' of the Duplicolor. I'll keep you posted.

John -- many thanks! She'll be added to my display desk!


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## santafe158 (Jul 14, 2010)

Beautiful restoration. It makes me want to grab one to rehab. I believe my brother owns a couple of those.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Go for it, Jake!

I prefer the 2-6-2 1668 over the more common 2-4-2 1688's. It's a relatively easy restoration: just a one-piece shell for repaint, and not too many trim parts to remove, clean, and reinstall. The dome valves, handrails, nameplates all come off for paint work easily.

On this one (and unlike all my other 1688-series fiddling), I left the smoke stack bezel in place. Just taped it off during the paint work, and then gave it a little buff and clear-coat afterwards. Easy. I also just taped off the frontal part of the drive rods, which are riveted to the loco shell.

Cheers,

TJ


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