# Rewiring and fiberglass replacement in smoker



## [email protected] (Mar 8, 2019)

Anyone have a link that shows the best/easiest way to wrap a new piece of fiberglass wick with new resistance wire. My first trial worked but was very tedious/tricky. What is the best way to anchor the wick when wrapping? Thanks in advance for tips/tricks


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I have wrapped the wick twice. You need 3 hands. I think I used a heavy book on one end of wick. Like I said I tried twice. First time it all went up in 2 seconds after applying power.
It was a cool light show. Second attempt is still working but not smoking enough. Some.
It is cheaper buying the wick and wire and wrapping it yourself, but not that much cheaper. I am done wrapping, from now on I will buy wick that has the wire already wrapped, ready to go. Glad I tried it a couple times but done doing it. The wire coils can not touch each other or you will get a light show. If your eyes are that good, have at it. Prewired wick is about 4.50. flyernut uses prewired wicks. Good enough for him, good enough for me.


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

mopac said:


> I have wrapped the wick twice. You need 3 hands. I think I used a heavy book on one end of wick. Like I said I tried twice. First time it all went up in 2 seconds after applying power.
> It was a cool light show. Second attempt is still working but not smoking enough. Some.
> It is cheaper buying the wick and wire and wrapping it yourself, but not that much cheaper. I am done wrapping, from now on I will buy wick that has the wire already wrapped, ready to go. Glad I tried it a couple times but done doing it. The wire coils can not touch each other or you will get a light show. If your eyes are that good, have at it. Prewired wick is about 4.50. flyernut uses prewired wicks. Good enough for him, good enough for me.


And if Mopac and Flyernut does it, it is also good enough for me!


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I soldered one end of the wire first. I toyed with the idea of wrapping it around a nail first then use a wick. The last time I had to adjust the loops. After I worked it across I anchored that end then unsoldered the first end and tightened on the way back. What helped was the end was wrapped around some paper.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Pre-wound is the only way to go. It's worth the few bucks just to eliminate the stupid hassle!! Right, Broke and MOPAC?


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## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

Thomas Barker's repair manual recommends using a small nail as T-Man posted above as a guide. I would recommend using the pre-wound assembly also for all the reasons already stated.


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## [email protected] (Mar 8, 2019)

Thanks, didn't know if there was something easy & seems there is not. Also had not realized one could get them prewound and at ~$5, that is not a bad price at all.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> Thanks, didn't know if there was something easy & seems there is not. Also had not realized one could get them prewound and at ~$5, that is not a bad price at all.


I get mine from Jeff Kane at The Train Tender. I usually buy around 4-5 at a time to have them on hand.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Another thing to do is take one or two winds off the coil of wire on a prewound.
That will give better smoke. Might not last quite as long. Use a multimeter and
measure ohms between the two ends of wire. 35 to 40 ohms will give good smoke 
and last. The lower the ohms the more smoke. The more smoke it won't last as long.
If it lasts a few years I would be happy with that. Once you change a few wicks it is not that big of repair.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

mopac said:


> Another thing to do is take one or two winds off the coil of wire on a prewound.
> That will give better smoke. Might not last quite as long. Use a multimeter and
> measure ohms between the two ends of wire. 35 to 40 ohms will give good smoke
> and last. The lower the ohms the more smoke. The more smoke it won't last as long.
> If it lasts a few years I would be happy with that. Once you change a few wicks it is not that big of repair.


Absolutely correct on all counts...you learn well, grasshopper.....:appl:


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## [email protected] (Mar 8, 2019)

Thanks guys. Went to The Train Tender site and found the prewound for $4.50. Not the easiest site to navigate, but pretty extensive and will have to peruse for for some other things after looking at my engines in need. I will be sure to adjust the coils with an Ohm meter to get the recommended ~35 Ohms. A search yesterday found the prewounds for $5 at Port Lines Hobby with shipping a bit more than Train Tenders. It's been awhile looking at the collection as have had other projects. But inspired again as I just picked up a Nickel Plate 345 engine/tender that looks pretty good (along with about 10 cars) but not tested yet. I'm sure it at least needs cleaning. Also have a 312 and 322 that need attention, not to mention quite a few cars accumulated from other auctions. Really love S gauge and the memories it brings back!


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Absolutely correct on all counts...you learn well, grasshopper.....

Anything I know is from you flyernut. I have tried to absorb
knowledge from you that you have perfected over the years.
Thank you.


LOL, why didn't you tell me not to use alcohol around a Tuscan caboose? I had to learn that one the hard way. Did you see my post on my 977 caboose? "don't do what I did".


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

Could an arrangement like below work. Make the wick in a long piece, drill small holes and wire as pictured. Then separate them ?
The main piece could be made from circuit board material, the wick material could be glued to the board, then hand wrap the nichrome wire.

Dan


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Here is why I think not. You need 5 or 6 inches of wick on each side of coil.

wwidmer, you mention a Nickel Plate 345. I am going to assume you meant 343.

If you have a nice 343 I am very jealous. I want one.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

If it is a real 345 it would be the factory prototype that was not approved for production!
The 343 is nice. My favorite is the 1952 342 5 wire with red glowing smoke.


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## [email protected] (Mar 8, 2019)

mopac said:


> ...wwidmer, you mention a Nickel Plate 345. I am going to assume you meant 343.
> 
> If you have a nice 343 I am very jealous. I want one.


My mistake, you assume correct, it is a 343, don't know why I was thinking 345. Feel very lucky as the auction pictures were not very good with it sitting with it in a box with other cars, but the 343 was visible in 1 pic.

New to me is the direction control is in the engine but sits just behind the motor and the lever sticks down (last picture), is out of site and not sticking up through the top of the boiler.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

AmFlyer said:


> If it is a real 345 it would be the factory prototype that was not approved for production!
> The 343 is nice. My favorite is the 1952 342 5 wire with red glowing smoke.


I have a 342AC with the cars....


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

You guys are killing me, LOL. I don't have a switcher- YET!!!

Very nice 343. Thanks for showing.


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

Can someone post a photo of the heater of which we speak. 

Dan


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## [email protected] (Mar 8, 2019)

Wick wound with heater wire (picture from Marty's Trains Inc.)
that goes into the smoke unit in either tender or boiler. Flyguy55 this morning posted a nice repair reference for winding your own wick (which can be tedious) and installation/replacement or one can buy the prewound wick.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Is that picture correct of the SIT unit??. The one I just did had that arm on the other way, and that's how I assembled it.


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## [email protected] (Mar 8, 2019)

flyernut said:


> Is that picture correct of the SIT unit??. The one I just did had that arm on the other way, and that's how I assembled it.


I really don't know. All I can say is that is how it was received by me. I have not taken it apart. I do have a second one which I also have not serviced and it is the same. Looking at the mechanism I don't think it will make any difference functionally if the arm is flipped over.


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