# Track in pavement.



## Steve S (Jan 7, 2012)

I don't model in N scale, but someone over at the Model Railroader forum asked how to model track in pavement in N scale without the unsightly gaps needed for the flangeway. I came up with the following and I thought I'd share it here.

I modeled the pavement using paper with the concrete texture printed onto it. The paper is shimmed up using poster board. The poster board between the tracks has to be narrow enough to allow for the flanges, but the paper can go the full width of the track. Note that in the pic below I trimmed the pavement a little too narrow (you can see the edge of it.) Ideally it should be wide enough to tuck under the rail head on both sides. The paper will give way as the wheel passes by and then bounce back.










For turnouts the paper needs to move with the points. The only thing I could really think of is to use two pieces, one between the closure rails and one between the points. Make sure there's a bit of overlap. You could try to disguise the joint by making it look like a seam in the pavement.










I created the concrete texture using the free 3D program Blender. I downloaded one of the existing concrete materials at the Blender Material Repository and modified it a bit to be a little more tan than gray. Be sure to use some normal mapping (a.k.a. bump mapping) to give it some 3D texture.
In Blender I created a cube, scaled the thickness down to a thin slab and beveled the edges a bit to create the seams. I duplicated the cube to make nine of them and narrowed the center three. I placed the camera directly above these looking straight down. I added a sun light and angled it a bit to accentuate the seams and bump mapping. Then I rendered an image of it. You'll want a fairly large image because it's better to have to downsize an image than upsize it.

I did all the weathering using Photoshop Elements (GIMP or Paint.net would work just as well.) Cracks can be created by adding a new layer on top of the concrete image. Draw some thin cracks with the brush set to one or two pixels. Than apply the Emboss filter to this layer to give it a 3D effect. Set the Height value pretty low and the Amount value pretty high. Adjust the angle of the light source to match the lighting on the original image. Then set the layer's merge mode to either Overlay or Hard Light to allow the background layer to show through. Adjust the Opacity as needed.










Sizing the image for printing can be trial and error. Use the Grid feature in your paint program to create a grid with 9mm spacing and adjust the size of the image so the center portion of the pavement is 9mm wide. Printers, however, don't always print out at a true 1:1 ratio, so it might take a few tries.
I printed this out onto white typing paper, but you could always use art paper that has a different color and texture to it. Just make sure it's not too thick for your printer.

If anyone uses this, please post some pics of it. I'd love to see it in action. Even if you use another method for the outer pavement, the paper method should work well for the inner part. Just weather the heck out of it and no one will notice the difference.

Steve S


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

That looks good,:thumbsup: someone recently asked about how to do this.
Thanks for posting, maybe he will see it.


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## broox (Apr 13, 2012)

That does look cool!

there was another method that I saw (I think on another website) by a japaneese fellow, if I recall correctly. but it doesn't hide the flangeways so well, I don't think...

It also required the track to be handlaid... And I'm unsure on if it had switches at all... hmm. let me see if I can dig it up!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

For O-scale Atlas track, we've used plaster to come up to the level of the track. For the inside to leave room for the flanges, we lay a small square piece of wood to allow spacing, then take it out when the plaster sets. Paint to suit and you have flush trolley tracks.


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## Steve S (Jan 7, 2012)

Thanks for the comments. In the larger scales the gap is closer to being prototypical in size. But in N scale it probably works out to about two feet wide.
In O scale, you could probably use something like that soft craft foam that Michael's sells. The foam could go all the way to the rail and the weight of the car would be enough to prevent derailments.

Steve S


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I try to stay away from N-scale, every time I pick up one of those cars, I'm afraid I'm going to crush it!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

That's amazing that that's all done on 2D paper ...

Your technique certainly adds a realistic 3D visual effect. Well done!

TJ


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## powersteamguy1790 (Mar 26, 2012)

Nice work Steve.:thumbsup:


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## Steve S (Jan 7, 2012)

Thanks. In my OP, I trimmed the center piece a bit too thin so I gave it another try. A perfect fit allows the paper to stay in place without any shimming. Pressing against the web of the rail is enough to hold it in place.

I also updated the texture. I downloaded some concrete textures and used them to enhance the original texture that I made in Blender. I loaded the concrete photos into new layers and used various merge modes (Overlay, Hard Light, and Luminance.) You may need to adjust the Levels and Opacity of these layers to keep everything within the same tonal range. 
I also used the Emboss filter to paint in some chips along the edges of the center piece.










Steve S


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## broox (Apr 13, 2012)

Cant fault that :thumbsup:

Bloody nice work!


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