# 302 tear apart.



## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Well, the 302 is torn apart. No smoke lever, piston, or pin.. No smoke wick, 2 white insulators loose, dirty with hardened grease,field coil is cut, etc. The owner took this engine to a train shop and was told it would cost more than it was worth.... I believe that's an understatement.Labor costs alone would far out way the value of the loco, not taking in consideration for parts.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Worked on the bent roof. I used my heat gun and gradually heated up the roof line, and then ever so slightly, continued to bend the roof back into shape.. Not as good as new, but a very acceptable repair...Sand, and touch-up paint to finish.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Boiler shell complete, handrails polished, paint-touched up.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Bucket of parts...


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Armature was pretty messed up, no shims on either end,boiler front is broke and won't stay in, field coil was messed with ..or.. it's a replacement, not sure, oil wick is messing, man.. the list keeps going on.....


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

We now have a running, and smoking 302 chassis. I still have to wire the head-light, but as we all know, that has to be done when the chassis is married to the shell. New wiring, new smoke wick kit, 10 screws, new brushes and brush springs, a brass smoke-stack, and a used female jack panel with brush tube






caps.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Chassis back on the shell, linkage on, but I'm waiting for my "fix" on the boiler front. It does run nice but there are a few things that just can't be fixed on this one. Both holes for the linkage are stripped out, and the screws won't hold. I used a dab of JB Weld on the holes and hopefully the screws will bite. Also, the screw that attaches the drawbar to the underneath is stripped out, and I had to use a little larger screw, which I hate doing.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Tender trouble. Tore apart the tender, and found a mess.. Cleaned and polished the drum, new upper and lower fingers, polished tender wheels and contacts strips. Had a lot














of trouble getting the new fingers adjusted, but I think I have it worried now!!


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

More tender trouble.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

One more


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Back on the track and running, smoking like it should.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Cool, pictures are good since I never saw one opened up never used heat to bend shells, I have made like a spreader vise, I would open a little each day to re bend stuff. Screws stripped out isn't good, but looks like it held! Good luck with it!


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

sjm9911 said:


> Cool, pictures are good since I never saw one opened up never used heat to bend shells, I have made like a spreader vise, I would open a little each day to re bend stuff. Screws stripped out isn't good, but looks like it held! Good luck with it!


The engine probably should have been scrapped, it was really the worse for wear. The only way I could have fixed it properly would have had to buy another shell, as well as a chassis as the draw bar screw was also boogered up badly.That would have added another $20-$25 bucks to the parts list, and I couldn't do that to the owner as he's on a very tight budget, and I promised him the parts would cost about $20 to get it running.The boiler front was also broken but I fixed that to my satisfaction. I hate putting in a larger screw for the draw bar as I consider that shoddy workmanship, and that's not what I would like to be known for.It is what it is.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

He will be happy. Good job.


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## AFnew2 (Aug 28, 2016)

*e unit*

What did you polish the drum with?


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## AFnew2 (Aug 28, 2016)

What did you polish the drum with?


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

AFnew2 said:


> What did you polish the drum with?


Sorry I haven't answered sooner, but I'be been fighting a 312...I use a bright-boy to polish it, and then I have a small spray bottle of 70% alcohol to clean it.


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## Aflyer (Nov 10, 2010)

Hey Nut,
Nice job, that is quite a ressurection. 

You do an awesome service here for all Flyer enthusiasts, whether you are fixing something for someone, or training some of us through your posts and pictures.

I have two questions:

First what paint do you use for touch up? I have always been afraid of trying to do touch up, because I figured it wouldn't match, and would end up looking worse.

Second question, why does that headlight have three wires?? I can see them in two different pictures, LOL.
George


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Aflyer said:


> Hey Nut,
> Nice job, that is quite a ressurection.
> 
> You do an awesome service here for all Flyer enthusiasts, whether you are fixing something for someone, or training some of us through your posts and pictures.
> ...


Thanks for all the compliments!! These little engines are so easy to fix, now,lol...I've had 1 or 2 that I gave up on, and used for parts, but that's like a kick in the b"""'s. I HATE to surrender to anything. It's like a line from "Good-fellows". If you beat him with fists, he'll come back with a bat. If you beat him with a bat, he'll come at you with a knife. If he comes at your with a knife, you'd better kill him." Now I probably got all that wrong but you get my drift. I had to go back and check all my pictures, and I actually started to laugh,lol..Not at you, but at the pictures,lol. What you're seeing is a reflection, or shadow from the wires,lol..Your's was the best question ever,lol.. Loved it.. It shows me people are looking hard at the pictures I've posted, and it's making them think..Wonderful, I'm doing my job!! For touch-ups, I use quite a few different products, sometimes combining them. Sometimes I use a permanent black marker, sometimes a black sharpie, sometimes a small bottle of Testor's gloss black, satin, or flat black. For a full re-paint, I use Krylon Satin black.. It looks like a factory finish, and believe me, I've tried A LOT of different paints. In some cases I've used gun-bluing!! Brownells 44-40 cold blue is great. The secret to it is to HEAT up the part you want to blue. And sometimes if I don't like the touch up, I rub my dirty little fingers over the touch-up, and many times, it works,lol...


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Here's a shot of one of my 290's tender that was painted flat black..Too flat for my taste. Then there's a picture of a 312 auxiliary tender that I created, and painted with














satin.. Big difference, and I like that shade alot better.


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## Aflyer (Nov 10, 2010)

flyernut said:


> Thanks for all the compliments!! These little engines are so easy to fix, now,lol...I've had 1 or 2 that I gave up on, and used for parts, but that's like a kick in the b"""'s. I HATE to surrender to anything. It's like a line from "Good-fellows". If you beat him with fists, he'll come back with a bat. If you beat him with a bat, he'll come at you with a knife. If he comes at your with a knife, you'd better kill him." Now I probably got all that wrong but you get my drift. I had to go back and check all my pictures, and I actually started to laugh,lol..Not at you, but at the pictures,lol. What you're seeing is a reflection, or shadow from the wires,lol..Your's was the best question ever,lol.. Loved it.. It shows me people are looking hard at the pictures I've posted, and it's making them think..Wonderful, I'm doing my job!! For touch-ups, I use quite a few different products, sometimes combining them. Sometimes I use a permanent black marker, sometimes a black sharpie, sometimes a small bottle of Testor's gloss black, satin, or flat black. For a full re-paint, I use Krylon Satin black.. It looks like a factory finish, and believe me, I've tried A LOT of different paints. In some cases I've used gun-bluing!! Brownells 44-40 cold blue is great. The secret to it is to HEAT up the part you want to blue. And sometimes if I don't like the touch up, I rub my dirty little fingers over the touch-up, and many times, it works,lol...


I could see that it was reflection/shadow, thus the LOL, I added. But you are right we are looking at pictures and that one really made me laugh.

I agree the Krylon Satin or Semi flat black is great paint, I have about 6 cans of the old formula, the good stuff, I keep for trains and the old Chebby. I also just ordered a testers flat black marking pen. More money than it is worth, but it was easy to buy:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/31166682118...49&var=610585239033&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I have thought about gun bluing for things like rolling stock chassis, and track ties, but never tried it. Can you buy that at a place like gander mountain or bass pro shops.

Aflyer


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Aflyer said:


> I could see that it was reflection/shadow, thus the LOL, I added. But you are right we are looking at pictures and that one really made me laugh.
> 
> I agree the Krylon Satin or Semi flat black is great paint, I have about 6 cans of the old formula, the good stuff, I keep for trains and the old Chebby. I also just ordered a testers flat black marking pen. More money than it is worth, but it was easy to buy:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/31166682118...49&var=610585239033&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
> ...


I got the 44-40 from a local gun shop we frequent. You can go to Brownells web-site or maybe even on ebay to find it. The stuff you get at Gander Mt, etc, is usually Birchwood Casey, it's ok, but not as good as the Brownells. I went back to your comment about the 3 wires and saw your LOL... LOL!! My bad...


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

As a after-thought, you can remove all the bluing from your trucks and chassis by using "evapo-rust. This stuff is amazing, and will make the trucks shine like there's no tomorrow!!


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## chrisallen21 (Sep 1, 2016)

Dumb question but is the lettering painted/sprayed on with a stencil or is it a decal? The picture on the engine '90' almost looks like it is painted/sprayed on with a stencil.


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## 2genflyers (Jan 14, 2013)

I believe that's a "dry transfer". Available through Portlines. They are SUPER easy.... if you take your time and follow the instructions. As you can see, the result is excellent. I've done many myself and never had any problems...except with one from Woodlands Scenics. While the ones from Portlines respond well with the application of a little heat (hair-dryer).... the ones from Woodlands Scenics seem to like room temperature. 

I MUCH prefer them over decals as they lay flatter with NO visible edge. Even with the best decals and setting solutions you still get a bit of an edge, which can be "softened" a bit with the application of a couple layers of clear-coat... but it's still there. 

...Oh I wish, I wish, upon a star. I wish there was a good source for VERY small run custom dry transfers, as custom/home-printed decals don't do well with lighter colors (white, yellow, etc). Much of the dark back-ground paint color will "telegraph" through. Yes... I know... you can print on white decal paper, but the result is an even thicker decal. Even if you are super careful trimming the decal at the edge, a teenie tiny bit of the white decal will be visible from the side. If you are uber-obsessive you can go back and try to touch up the edge with a little of the back-ground color... but what a PITA!

Besides... dry transfers are AWESOME on a steak. Nope, wait a minute... that's a DRY RUB! Ummmmm, STEAK. BEER, Ummmmm.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Dry transfer my friend... I also get mine from Doug Peck at PortLines. There is a trick, but once you know it, it's easy...The originals were heat-stamped. For a really flawless restoration, you can send your shell to PortLines, and they will stamped it for you.


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