# I'm a beginner looking for help with DCC & Wiring



## nbretz (Dec 14, 2017)

I'm very new to model trains. Purchased my first set (Bachmann Red Rock Express) at my hobby shop 3 days ago. It's HO scale. I'm looking to expand and need help. With the set, it comes with EZ Track. I love how easy it is to put together but I absolutely hate the look. I don't like the large plastic piece for support. 

I'm wandering if I can use track like Atlas code 83? If yes, how would I go about wiring it since the EZ track has a piece where the wire goes into to power the rest of the track. I've been searching for videos online and forums but I can't find an answer I understand.
And, If I can use the atlas track, will It still work with my controller? It's a basic controller with 2 accessories slots, a AC power and a plug to power the track. I would like to convert to DCC in the future so I want to set myself up so it all works.

If there is a video out there explaining this very well, I would love to check it out. Thanks in advanced and the model train community is so nice I can see


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Welcome to the forum!

You can use any track you like, so long as it is the same scale as your trains (HO, in this case). The code is simply the height of the rail in 1000ths of an inch. Most HO modelers think Code 83 looks about right for modern, heavy rail. Smaller codes look better for branch lines and lighter rail. But you may not care about that. Personally, I would recommend against brass or steel track (both of which have corrosion problems) and stick to nickel-silver. The manufacturer doesn't matter -- HO track is HO track (although I think MicroEngineering and Walthers Shinohara look better than other brands).

Instead of getting sectional pieces, you can opt to use something called flex track. It comes in 1 yard (or meter) long sticks, which can be shaped into any desired configuration (within reason, if you want your trains to stay on it).

The non-roadbed track (and even some versions of roadbed track) use small metal clips, called rail joiners, to connect pieces of track. You will also need a supply of these, in the same code as your track.

Also, the gray track bed simulates the groomed ballast layer under well-maintained track. More experienced modelers actually add simulated or real gravel to create that experience. In this case, the plastic is replaced by a shaped cork or foam roadbed piece to which both the track and the rails are glued.

Powering it is easy. I assume that the EZ track has a piece with a plug on it. The simplest solution is to snip the plug and solder the wires to the underside of a piece of track, one to each rail. If you're intimidated by the thought of soldering (a skill which you will need to acquire eventually), you can purchase feeder joiners with wires pre-soldered to them.

That's all there is to it. Your layout will run just fine like that (my son's 8x8 L shaped layout operates off a single pair of AWG22 feeder joiners). If you desire greater reliability (really risk reduction), you can add multiple feeders around the layout and solder most of your joints together, which will dramatically lower both power loss and dead zones.

So, a lot to absorb in one reply. Good luck, and don't hesitate to ask whatever pops into your head.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I should also have pointed out that you can fudge the pieces so that other brands of track, even roadbed track, will connect to the EZ track, but it requires a decent amount of work. Since you hate the appearance of the EZ track, it's probably not worth it.


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## nbretz (Dec 14, 2017)

CTValleyRR said:


> Welcome to the forum!
> 
> You can use any track you like, so long as it is the same scale as your trains (HO, in this case). The code is simply the height of the rail in 1000ths of an inch. Most HO modelers think Code 83 looks about right for modern, heavy rail. Smaller codes look better for branch lines and lighter rail. But you may not care about that. Personally, I would recommend against brass or steel track (both of which have corrosion problems) and stick to nickel-silver. The manufacturer doesn't matter -- HO track is HO track (although I think MicroEngineering and Walthers Shinohara look better than other brands).
> 
> ...


What If I was to buy a few pieces of flex track and use that? Would I have to solder wire to each track and then where does that wire connect back to? And I'm guessing I would have to run the wire through the underside of a table also.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

Solder fills gaps where metal-to-metal contact that ought to take place in a location..................doesn't take place. Joiners are thin-walled metal. They bend and splay, especially over time, and mostly when trains pass over them where they aren't kept supported...like on rugs.

Joiners are very good at mechanical alignment of the rail ends. But, they are only fair at electrical continuity between lengths of rail. So, we fill them partially with solder. The solder helps to strengthen the joint, but it does wonders for electrical continuity between the various track elements.

Long way to answer your question, but yes, you either solder a feeder onto every length of flex track, or you solder the feeder to the joiner, fill the joiner at the same time, and you get that stronger joint that feeds a full length of rail on either side of it. What this means is that you really only need to feed every second pair of joiners.

=======x=======0========x========0

The x is a soldered joiner, while the 0 means only a slipped-into-place joiner for the mechanical alignment. You can see that the soldered joiner feeds the rails on either side of it.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Flex track comes in 3 foot lengths. Most of us use
the code 100, but those who prefer a truer scale
choose code 83.

You can cut and bend flex track to easily match
your track plan. You will want to buy sufficient
metal joiners to connect your track.

The number of electrical feeders to your track depends
on the layout size. A typical oval on a 4 X 8 bench
would need only 2 feeders from your controller. Larger
layouts usually have feeders every 6 feet of track or so.

We suggest color coded wires, for example red to
the right (outside) rail, black to the other rail. The
color code helps you maintain phase or polarity around
your track.

If your layout is large you would use a bus under the
table to feed the various track drops. The color coding
helps you maintain polarity. Some of us use the 
'suitcase' connectors for this connection, others use
screw on connectors while some solder those joints.

If you follow the above your wiring will be ready for DCC
yet work fine for DC.

Don


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

nbretz said:


> What If I was to buy a few pieces of flex track and use that? Would I have to solder wire to each track and then where does that wire connect back to? And I'm guessing I would have to run the wire through the underside of a table also.


You don't HAVE to do anything. It's your layout, so you do what you want to. Your layout, your rules. 

That said, some things are a good idea, especially if you want to spend your time enjoying your trains rather than troubleshooting.

Most brands of flex track are springy, and need to be fastened down to hold their shape. A rail joiner is not strong enough to hold it. You only absolutely NEED a single pair of feeder wires, even for a pretty good sized layout. But that means you're relying on those tiny metal sleeves to maintain connectivity between sections. That's asking for trouble. Soldering most of those track joints together (actually, you are soldering the joiners in place, not soldering the rails together) adds reliability. So does adding more feeders. But it's not absolutely necessary.

Likewise, you don't HAVE to run the wires under the table, although that's a great way to keep them out of sight. You can also paint them or cover them with scenery.


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## santafealltheway (Nov 27, 2012)

nbretz said:


> I'm wandering if I can use track like Atlas code 83? If yes, how would I go about wiring it since the EZ track has a piece where the wire goes into to power the rest of the track.


Heres how i like to do it. solder to the rail joiner's bottom. everything remains removable.


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