# my first layout



## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Some pictures of my first ever layout. Its not complete yet. I have to fine tune the accessories and hook up switches to everything( operating tracks, switches, accessories, etc.) . I will add more ground scenery when everything works well and pai t the back wall. The bench work is on rollers.


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

Darn, for a first layout, you are off to a good start. 

Nice accessories and nice table.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

By the way, none of this would have been possible without reading this forum as a guest. I started with a set found at a storage auction and new nothing about model railroads. I did remember my father setting up a Christmas train when I was I kid. The zw was my father's and I could never let myself throw it out. It was waiting for me to use it for the past 30+ years. Thanks for looking and I will be trying to rebuild some old beat up trains soon. .


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Thanks dave, I love it. My wife , not so much.


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## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

Very nice. I wish I had the space to build something bigger


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

Off to a very good start. Once the bug bites, there is no known cure. Tell the wife, you just spent all the money you could have spent drinking with the guys  Then remind her she knows where you'll be most nights 

Carl


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Njoffroader, thanks. Everything I did I screwed up twice. Wish I found this forum sooner!


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Kwikster, you mean twice the money I could have spent drinking. Then explain the beer I drink while watching the trains go by. Maybe I'll Leave the first part out!


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## captaincog (Oct 7, 2012)

Very nice layout. Seems great for running trains! I like the scenery and detail stuff that you did.


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## Big Mike (Dec 2, 2011)

not bad, not too bad at all, it would be alot nicer if there was room for biger curves though,but your ideas are nice, I think its coming along well,look forward to seeing more progress soon.........Mike


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## NYC 5344 (Dec 26, 2012)

Nice layout. I can't tell, but is it two independent loops? Or are they connected?


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## MPCAnthony (Oct 13, 2011)

Nice work. Is that foam roadbed under the track?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You went "all in" for a first layout!


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## N scale catastrophe (Nov 18, 2012)

Love the main street tree streetlamp combo. My old home town did that exact thing last summer, added a lot of charm just like it does on your layout. Nice work 

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23372&d=1357093444


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Thanks everyone. I have a small foam sheet over the whole table but the roadbed is actually a self adhesive starter strip for shingles. I had to mix some glue and water to keep the grit from coming up. But then I could cut it with shears to fit. I have a 14 month old home and didn't have the time for propper roadbed. I think the I achieved the look but with less time. And they are two separate loops I was going to connect them but I needed another switch. I thought I had enough on hand but must of miscalculated when I was building it. The kicker is after cleaning up I found a box with the switch I needed in it. Doh!


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Big mike, everythings better bigger that's why its o scale. Unfortunately space is limited and so is my wifes patience.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Great looking little Main Street setup. Nice layout!

TJ


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## Handyandy (Feb 14, 2012)

Looks like a fun layout! Not having any switches in the outer loop will enable you to run stuff that doesn't work with modern switches. 
You know, just in case you happen to find something someday!


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Handyandy, I did not think of that. Your post came at the perfect time as I just fixed up a junker that will not go through a switch well. I did not even consider running it on the outside loop. Thanks.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Just tried the little bugger on the outside track. Ran great even up the slope with 5 cars in tow.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I'm at a standstill on my layout. Any and all advise is appreciated. I'm going to wire all my accessories and switches. They are being feed from a zw feed. My question is this: some accessories ( at least on my layout) work better at different voltages. Accessories are as follows; log loader, oil barrel loader, coal loader, water tower, whistling billboard, barrel loader, etc.. is there a way , maybe with reostats, that I can set a constant voltage to each accessory? My turnouts are also powered with this same line. Does this make sense or am I being too critical?


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## Big Mike (Dec 2, 2011)

sjm9911 said:


> Big mike, everythings better bigger that's why its o scale. Unfortunately space is limited and so is my wifes patience.


 
thats too bad,O well, O, and BTW to run all my accy. I use six different transformers,including two Z-4000s, now someone out there may know a way to use less transformers than that,but I don't,because of some of the accys.having the old style pullmor motors,and some having D/C motors,I need different power levels at different accys. and I wired my layout in sections,so if there is a problem,I dont have to search the intire underside of the layout to find the short. ............Mike


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## billshoff (Nov 4, 2011)

*Can we see the track plan?*

I like your layout, too. I can't see the whole track plan; I'm wondering how the enter loop curves around the buildings. Could you give us some more pics, please?
And I agree that you may need several transformers to run the different accessories; but certainly don't need ZWs for each circuit. ;-) Find some second hand Lionel 1033s.
Nice work!


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Thanks, I do have some transformers gathering dust right now. I have one of the zw hook ups to the outer track, one to the inner track, one to the Sideings, and one to the accessories, switches, and operating tracks. The lights are on a 1033. I will post some more pics soon. I did try and fit as much into my space as possible. I might still look into the rheostat thing because every accessorie I have runs on a diffrent voltage. After useing one accessorie I forget to reset to the default voltage causing things to jam up.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Just re-painted and tuned up a cattle corral. Now just have to find a place to put it. The paint job is not spot on but I think its better then the rust. I had to take the peice apart as cows and other suff was stuck in-between the base and the gangway.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Looks great, it's a "customized" unit.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Thanks, at least I can fix the accessories. That way you have something to do while I try to fix the trains!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

sjm9911 said:


> ... cattle corral ... I had to take the peice apart as cows and other suff was stuck in-between the base and the gangway.


And a freed cow is a happy cow!!!

Repaint looks great. Nice save.


TJ


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## callmeIshmael2 (May 28, 2012)

You're off to a great start. I particularly like the look of what you've done with your tubular track. Even tho' the curves are tight, your ballasting or whatever you've done below the track makes it look good, and so nice to see some quality postwar accessories and operating cars. If you've got room, why not try some mountain scene at one location? Not hard to do with a glue gun and cardboard strips glued as a lattice, and some drugstore plaster-wrap dipped in water for a shell, then paint and scenic it to your contentment. Having a train disappear, even for a second or two, adds to the drama.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Thanks for the kind words. I originally wanted a tunnel but my layout on paper didn't match up with the space I had in real life. Anyway I think the simple look is ok for now. I was also going to paint the back wall to look like mountains for depth but my artistic skill is virtualy nill.


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## billshoff (Nov 4, 2011)

So hang a backdrop on the wall. You can order them from several scenic shops or you can send a high resolution picture to a printing company so they can print a banner for you.
I found a panoramic picture of mountains (it had no copyright) on Wikipedia and sent it to Vista Print. They printed it on a 2' x 8' vinyl banner. I had a coupon so it cost $17.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Thats a realy cool pic. I just got a new phone and thought it was part of the backround. I hade to load the pic several times before I figured out that was the actual back drop. Great idea.


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## billshoff (Nov 4, 2011)

Check out this thread about backdrops: 
http://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/displayForumTopic/content/5653431174854662?reply=9173460002798872#9173460002798872


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I skimmed it pretty cool , thanks. I'll get to reading the whole thing tomorrow, otherwise I will be thinking of going to home depot, and what paint to buy all night. I will be doing something. ..


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## Cape T/A (Aug 15, 2012)

Thats a really cool layout!


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Cape t/a Thanks. Billshoff, im still deciding on a back drop. Luck for me my tables are build on whees for easy access to the back.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Just picked this up on e bay. After a quick bench test worked great . Now where do I put it!? Still have not been working on the layout. I'm trying ( with a lot of help from everyone here) to get my engines up and running.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

All right cant post pics again from my phone! Anyway I got a newer lionel pumping station ( without the Derek) . All the peices seem to be there and it was 28.50. Delivered. I'm going to pair it up with my cobbler oil derek.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I think I got it.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Ok so this is what I've been up to. I managed to get my 1666 up and running. It needed to be rewired and the e unit serviced. ( all this was possible because of the people on this forum). I also painted a train for my daughter. It is also up and running. While fixing up the 1666 I learned about fixing e- units which allowed me to fix two other rigs that did not run. ( I have to order some parts for the disassembled one). I also got to cleaning some prewar? Stuff. The wheels took awhile to get off all the ruse. The 1688e might get a paint job soon. I took a pic of its good side.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Now that I learned how to strip paint my next paint job will look better.


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## Bloodhound (Dec 2, 2012)

Stunning first layout brother. Makes mine look like actual childsplay!


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I got a little ahead of myself. Visions of grandure but have know idea what im doing.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

If you're trying to remove rust from anything, try Evapo-Rust. I was stunned to see that it wasn't a scam and it really works as advertised, great stuff!

P.S. I like the pink train, I'll bet that was a hit!


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Grj, much appreciated, my daughter will grow into it as she is only 1 1/2. I've hear good stuff about the rust remover. I will have to try it out one day.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

SJM,

Excellent work, all around. Lucky girl, to have you creating such unique, custom, train/cars for her! I love the tags on the tender, gondola, etc.!

Cheers,

TJ


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Thanks tj!. Thats a big complement coming from you.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Anyone know the correct way to fix this. I could drill it out and replace the spring?. I could not get the new slide shoes on because the plastic was melted. While separating the metal from the plastic I bent the spring? Too much. Now the shoe is too loose. Good news is that. My new skills in e unit repairs made rewiring this rig easy. Now it works and nothing else is melting!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

If you have a contact adjustment tool, you could probably bend it back.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I think you can bend that back into functional shape, without removing the rivet.

Let's mentally break the distance from the shoe hole to the rivet into thirds, starting from the shoe hole position ...

You need to unbend the existing bend at the 1/3 position. Slip something small/ round underneath there, directly under the existing bend, and then push both abutting spring sides down.

Then, you may need to induce more bend into the existing bend at the 2/3 position. To to this, you'll have to slide something small/round underneath the spring at the bend, lift the bend up a bit, then push the left side further down.

(Normally, I'd encourage you to undo the existing bend at the 2/3 position, but this is so close to the rivet, you might not be able to position a fulcrum to achieve that, without the now-straight spring pointing diagonally up and away from the rivet.)

TJ


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I guess I could presuade it a bit. I did not want to break it. It doesn't work now so I might as well give it a shot. Grj nice tool (actualy one I dont own!) . Tj your step by step makes it easy (I hope) . Thanks.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I actually got my set of contact adjustment tools to work on pinball machines.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

You might have to start a Union thread for those, John, if you have a fun collection going.

I watch American Pickers and American Restoration on occassion, and enjoy the pinball finds/redos.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Don't give me any more ideas about collection something else, the trains are enough. Gr have you ever been to the pinball place in Asbury park nj. Its pretty cool.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I used to have a bunch of pinball machines, but everyone lost interest, so now I have a couple, and one is waiting on me to fix it. Probably not enough for a whole thread.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Ok , I placed my first order with the " train tender" . Very nice guy. I feel you guys were right about him. He cares about his customers. And he took his time with a novice. I am going to restore the 1688e ( I hope) . But first I will practice on the scout. It curently is sitting in oven cleaner. Im working up to my most prized engine. A 1950s bell switcher. This rig got me into model trains; it reminded me of my youth. ( and it was free, at least until I bought everything to go around it!)


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Jeff is a great guy, and he does treat you well.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

My "train tender" order can in today. Man, super quick . I could not be happier. Everything has its own separate bag and cataloged to boot. I put the traction tires on my coke switcher. Now it can pull a few cars. ( I will try to update the sparking wheel thread when I find it). New tires were key as the wheels of the swither were turning but the traction tires were not. I also got a new pick up assembly peice for the 1654. I could have tried to fix the other one but for 12 $ wasn't worth the hassle. One side was pretty melted. ( it was placed into reserve) . I also stripped and started painting the 1654. I tried to really cheap out on the oven cleaner. I bought some at the dollar store. I used half the can and let it sit for 24 hours. It did not work. It did weather the engine very nicely but that is not what I was looking for. The regular stuff striped the eng in 4 hours. I will have pics up in the next few days. This is practice for my 1688e.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I've discovered the LHS has a bead blaster I can use whenever I need to strip paint, so I'm going to be visiting them soon again for more stripping.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

This next one is for tj. The paint did not come out as planned. The paint chips I look at were an exact match for the 1688e, however the paint was not. My new marker lights from the train tender look nice on the rig. I used some advice from servoguys other thread and straightened out the back of the eng.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

The one side had some burn? Marks. The metal seemed melted. I could not get them all out. I heated the eng in the oven for a few minutes at 170 degrees before painting. I also heated the spray paint in warm water. I used paint from my local napa ( car repair store) . The spray paint was of much better quality then hd. The spray was atomized much more finely. Tj how do you keep the paint off the smokestack etc. I put a bit of Vaseline on them before painting. For the most part it worked.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Nice job painting it, looks like it came out real good.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

SJM,

I think that's a pretty good match for a gunmetal look. What is the type/color of paint you used? I have a 1668 and a 238 on my bench that will need some gunmetal paint in the spring.

How did you "straighten out the back of the eng"? I'd really like some insight here.

I usually try to remove all of the metal / shiny bits prior to repaint. I grind down the "peen over" on the inside of the shell, and glue them back in, afterwards. In the case of the smokestack ring, I Dremel-cut 2 or 3 slits in the peened ring on the inside of the shell, then gently bend the ring such that I can now pop it out of the shell.

Do you have a wire wheel or a burnishing wheel? (Like on a bench grinder.) If so, you can polish up those drive rods, and then clear-coat them, for a shiny look.

Nice restoration work!

TJ


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Tj , I did not even think about removing the shinny bits. The paint is from napa auto parts. brand: dupli.color engine enamel. The color: de1651 cast coat iron. It can be applied every 10 minutes in thin coats for the first hour. Makes it easy to finish. Can handle in three hours. The only negative is that if you dont finish in an hour you need to wait 7 days for it to cure. My other rig is sitting waiting for its second color. The back end of my 1688e was bent in on one side where the rear windows are . I just used a 2 wing nuts and 2 washers to straighten the side out. I snugged the bolt and then quarter turned the wing nut twice a day untill it straightened out to my likeing. Thanks for the positive feedback.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Nice job. :thumbsup:


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

SJM,

Thanks for the paint / bend info ... most helpful!

TJ


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Ok, so I put my slide shoe on the engine and it runs like a top. While I was waiting for the shoe I decided to paint the engine. I think it came out ok. Lessons I learned; for the two tone look I needed to make sure my original paint was cured. To do this I set the rig in an oven around 170 deg. No moisture on the rig ment the paint was cured. I need better paint brushes for hand painting. Brissles kept coming out. Dont have two cups of coffee before hand painting. That leaves my final lesson . Leave well enough alone. I kept trying to retouch the paint. Black, silver, black etc. It does not have to be perfect. Unless you are on top of the engine you cant see the imperfections. I still could have done a better job on the silver but good enough is good enough.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

SJM,

You're really just cruising right along! Another oldie saved! Nice work!

TJ


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Nice layout. :thumbsup:

When I commented back in March it was for your train not the layout. 
I guess I never went to post #1. 
Though I think I have seen some of the pictures before? 

Someone asked for a picture of the whole table. 
You think you could get it in one picture?

Barter with the wife for more space. 
Then you could put in all O/72 rail. :smokin:

(Don't tell her I suggested it.)


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Thanks ed, I will get a shot up soon. I switched phones at the time and had a month or so without pictures. It took me awhile to post pictures with the new phone and everything kind of faded away. I saw this on an email notification, I didn't realize I started this thread! Yes I will have work to do. New curves, new lines, legacy when it arrives. Billshoff, I did not forget about the background pic, I'm awaiting a trip to upstate ny, I have the perfect place for a photo background.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

The way I see it if you add a foot to the out side of the table where the arrows are, you can put in O/72 curves. You will have to rebuild the incline, the hill hill part, but just where the curve will sit. It looks like you have room for an extra foot.
All you need is 5' for the curve, though at 6' the track won't be sitting on the edge. What are your dimensions right now? What are your outside curves right now? O/42? I even think the new diesel will go on O/54 track curves.

If you add the one foot piece to the outside where the arrows are it is a piece of cake.

The inside loop leave as is, that is separate from the outside right?
What is going to go in the vacant area where I put the question mark?


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Outside curves are o42, mostly. The table is 4 foot wide. The blank area is just unfinished, I guess that track will get straightened out. I was going to put a station in there when I got one. Yes the inside loop is separated from the rest and can be conventional only. I have a bit of o72 on hand and will think about it. I was also toying with the idea of a third loop around the other two. I got some time to think about it. I still can't use my hand for a few more weeks after that I need to build up strength etc. Thanks ed. I'll make it work or build a fireplace!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

sjm9911 said:


> Outside curves are o42, mostly. The table is 4 foot wide. The blank area is just unfinished, I guess that track will get straightened out. I was going to put a station in there when I got one. Yes the inside loop is separated from the rest and can be conventional only. I have a bit of o72 on hand and will think about it. I was also toying with the idea of a third loop around the other two. I got some time to think about it. I still can't use my hand for a few more weeks after that I need to build up strength etc. Thanks ed. I'll make it work or build a fireplace!


If you could add a whole new loop around your outside loop that you have now that would be great.
What are you thinking if you do, elevate it just a little in the back against the wall and have it come down in the front? Add on a little to the table in the front?
Sort of what you have now.

Then you would have 3 loops. :thumbsup:

Do you have permission from the boss? 
Tell her it is only a foot more. 
Then make it 2 feet more.
3 foot more? :smilie_daumenpos:


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

That's what I was thinking, adding the extra foot all around the table will be a pain but in the long run might be easier then starting over. In addition the up will not go through the regular switches. So no sidings, for now. I will also inherit my neighbors layout in a year or so. I'm not pushing for it yet but he said I can have it. 3 levels, all supper o. Time to buy a bigger house!


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Ok, I just realized that others might not have a clue what me and ed are talking about. I am in the process of adding legacy to my layout. I bought this Up Switcher that will not run on my outside 0-42 track( even though on the Lionel site it said it would. Have to retool the layout for the new rig.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

That thing looks huge! Good excuse to expand the layout!


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Just re read my thread, man I sure learned a lot! 
Big mike was right in the beginning about bigger radius track. It's kinda weird to look back six months, I still don't know much, and this legacy thing will be hard for me! As soon as I can hold a screwdriver, I'm going to work!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

FWIW, I had an O27 layout, finally got frustrated with it's limitations and decommissioned it. I had grandiose plans for a large O31 layout, but now I've totally turned full circle and after being in the modular club for a year and running on 72" and larger curves, I'm changing the focus. I'll have mostly 72" curves with smaller for yards and the like, but larger curves are basically the way to go.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Ok, bouncing some ideas around. I have track but I can't seem to procure cheap 072 switches. Is there an equivalent brand cheaper then Lionel( that's compatible) or has anyone tried to cut back the curve on an o22 switch and add a peice of o72 track to make a slightly bigger curve? Just thinking out loud for now. And just to confirm, my new switcher hasn't a prayer to make it through an o22 switch with o72 connected right? I'm unable to try it out otherwise I would have. Any ideas? Thanks.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

sjm9911 said:


> Ok, bouncing some ideas around. I have track but I can't seem to procure cheap 072 switches. Is there an equivalent brand cheaper then Lionel( that's compatible) or has anyone tried to cut back the curve on an o22 switch and add a peice of o72 track to make a slightly bigger curve? Just thinking out loud for now. And just to confirm, my new switcher hasn't a prayer to make it through an o22 switch with o72 connected right? I'm unable to try it out otherwise I would have. Any ideas? Thanks.


If your going to just add an outside loop you don't need the O/72 switches?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, if you want to drive trains onto the outside loop, you'll need some sort of switches, right?


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Well, if you want to drive trains onto the outside loop, you'll need some sort of switches, right?


Not if the outside loop is separate from the inside. 
SJM take your time on the switches a while back here on the site I bought a bunch of O/72 curves and 15 40" long straights, a bunch of O/42 along with O straights and other curves, also short pieces in straights and curves. A ton of track all O.

He also had a bunch of O/72 switches after I bought the track I offered $150 for 4 O/72 switches I think he countered with $45 a switch, I think I countered with an offer of $160 for the four and he took it. I can't remember the exact price as I bought a lot of other stuff from him, but I got them under $50 bucks per switch.
The switches I got were like new. :thumbsup:
It is hard to find O/72 switches at even $75 a switch, most I see go for $90 and above if they are in new shape. Some of the early O/72 switches go for over $125! 
Take your time and look for a deal, I was looking for a while, I did not want to spend over $50 per switch.

I thought you were going to add just an outside loop? Separate from the inside line? 
It would be better if you could add switches. :thumbsup:


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I agree ed, 50$ max. But you're right they skyrocket in price fast! I was toying with the idea to connect the two outer loops and if a get another legacy eng ( that runs on a smaller radius track) it could go back and forth.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Ed, I just figured out what I bought! Check it out in the legacy thread. I definitely got a good buy. Just have to figure out how to use it! I also need those switches now(and a bigger house).


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Ok, just bought( 2) o72 switches, it's a start. I'm also bidding on a legacy engine that can navigate the second loop in my layout. I need my arm to heal, I can't keep buying stuff out of total boredom, I'll go broke! Switches look like new, 50$ each but 20$ for shipping. Still not to bad. I'm bidding on some junk switches on the bay but $$$$ keeps going up. I'll have a semi revised layout plan up soon. I have been thinking of not a totally new outside loop but some bypasses so I can keep the straight track on the back and incorporate it into both loops. Still thinking about it.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Rough drawing of what I was thinking. The outer loops would be command the inner loop conventional. Hopefully I can get a smaller legacy rig to go from the inside loop and back. This is if I have the space. The drawing isn't to scale and crappie as I still can't use my hand much.


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## Dug (Jun 9, 2013)

Nice layout. Job well done.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Are you planning on connecting the outer loops to the inside loop?


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## Patrick1544 (Apr 27, 2013)

Looks great, SJM. Keep adding on. Brings back a lot of memories. I have most of those accessories also. Including that big bad boy ZW. Is this the layout running your new TMCC?


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Unfortunately layout build has stopped and I have to take a break do to unforseen circumstances. I be back when I can.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Hope all is well and you can resolve the situation. Remember, this is just a hobby, life comes first.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Yes, ditto what John said. :smokin:


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Can you continue now? :dunno:

I think maybe an expansion would be good therapy for you? 
:rippedhand: You know what I mean? 
What do you think, soon? :smokin:


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Ed, construction on the new outer leg will begin soon! Timetable is within 2 months. I still have to clean some parts of my house out and want to run a holiday layout for my daughter. But if the outer loop can be done before Christmas, I'll work on it. Otherwise it's in January. I still have to corral my stuff as it went into storage and is just being brought back out. I did buy some new stuff. I always wanted an exploding boxcar. I scored that with the missile launcher of of the bay for 32$ + 10$ shipping. The newer version, unused in box. Expansion is coming, slowly but surely.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Oh, Billshoff, if your still here I haven't forgotten about the background. I'll get to it! I'll be using your idea and link. I've got it saved!


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## billshoff (Nov 4, 2011)

sjm9911 said:


> Oh, Billshoff, if your still here I haven't forgotten about the background. I'll get to it! I'll be using your idea and link. I've got it saved!


The banner worked for me. Search Google for a discount coupon for Vistaprint: http://www.retailmenot.com/view/vistaprint.com


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## Model Train Structures (Oct 10, 2013)

Really nice looking layout, especially for the 1st one. Way to go! 

D.A.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Mts, thanks for the kind words. It's a work in progress. Unfortunately the progress stopped for a bit and big eds push will get me started again. It's not pperfect but it's just right for me.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

sjm9911 said:


> Mts, thanks for the kind words. It's a work in progress. Unfortunately the progress stopped for a bit and big eds push will get me started again. It's not pperfect but it's just right for me.


Ed don't push anyone,........without good reason. 
What you should do is move the layout up to the living room now. 
Continue into the dining room and knock a hole into the master bedroom.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Ok I've been trying to procure stuff for the new expansion, unfortunately I didn't have a vision and just bought stuff I liked.  anyway my exploding boxcar cam in, and I bought a water tower and some houses. I also am bidding on some fire trains, and the burning switch tower. And another cattle car and pen. Like I said I'm all over the place! Hopefully I'll have enough room. Pictures of the exploding boxcar. I think for 42 bucks it was a good deal.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Now you just need something to fire at the exploding boxcar. This is a good choice...


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## old464 (Oct 12, 2011)

O crap we'll my bug started with old 70s trains then sold it all for mth realtor ax and proto 2 and dcs. I still will have my tin plate blue streak forever. My dad's. I got the bug or rebug when my girl hit 3 she loves them!


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