# Update: LionChief Plus Repair



## chipset35 (Sep 4, 2015)

I replaced the board I thought I fried with a new one I purchased from Lionel for $55.
In transformer mode, the engine began to move with no sounds.
Then stopped and seemed to have a problem getting going again.
It also started making a noise similar to the sound Post War Growlers have when you apply power.
No burning smells, but it seems the locomotive is having trouble processing the power fed to it.
The headlamp seems to flicker or vary in intensity.
I believe there may be still be issues from the fall it had with the gears where the motor meets the drive shaft, if such a mechanism exists in LionChief.
Will take it apart again but this time all the way and see what is going on deep inside.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Remember I mentioned that you should carefully inspect it before putting the new board in?


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## chipset35 (Sep 4, 2015)

Yep, and in all the excitement...I did not.
I am lucky it seems to be somewhat ok...I still need to take a look at the gears before I dare try running it again.
BTW, could the lack of sound be due to either a damaged tender or the coupling which is kind of 2 blocks with contacts inserted into each other.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The speaker is in the tender, so it could be a simple issue. Like I said, look it over CAREFULLY before you risk another board.


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## chipset35 (Sep 4, 2015)

I think I found the culprit.; it is the Tender's Coupler.
Take a look at these two pictures, instead of 4 neat bent wires, there are what looks like 3 mangled wires.
Can a short in that tender coupler affect the locomotive board?
The locomotive's coupler fits right into it.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Since that's the speaker and the rear coupler, I'd have to say it certainly could have an effect. If you short or cross one or more wires, that would do very bad things most likely.


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## chipset35 (Sep 4, 2015)

I agree, in fact the engine is dead as a door nail now.
Sigh....well, I guess the best thing to do at this point is try and buy another tender and another board.

My favorite engine....so it is worth it!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You can probably buy the drawbar for the tender. Also, I'd inspect EVERYTHING before sacrificing the next board.


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## chipset35 (Sep 4, 2015)

I could not get it off, could not get that screw out over the truck as in the pic


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

If you're talking about truck screw, a little heat might help, or an impact screwdriver. It's got a bit of Loctite on the threads into the truck.


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## KevinE (Jul 23, 2015)

My LC+ Pacific just turned itself into a brick.

I think there is a design flaw in the way the handrails are mounted.

Basically, the handrail moved inward enough at the motor end to short against the motor connector circuit board at the back of the engine. The power was conducted along the handrail to the front of the engine where it created a burn mark in the shell. The hand rail was so hot it burned my hand when I picked up the engine to see what was wrong. It also melted the plastic stanchions on the outside of the engine.

This also took out the board at the same time.

If you look inside the shell, you can see how the handrail ends are folded over.

Anyone with the Pacific (maybe even the Hudson) should check theirs. A bit of electric tape over the connector and/or the handrail should protect them from shorting.

Mine was only a month old.

Not too impressed with the Lionel design.

I have over 30 MTH engines and have only had one failure and that was after 10 years.

No more LC+ for me, I can get MTH Railking engines with much better sound and features for about the same price. With better robust electrical system.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'd get Lionel to fix/replace it if it's a month old! I'd also add that one issue with a single product doesn't normally elicit such a quick response. 

I wonder what happens when you have a similar problem with a RailKing locomotive? If you don't believe that can happen, I can show you the RK Imperial Big Boy, I'm fixing the third one that came in with all the boards toasted because of a design flaw if the "wireless" drawbar!

All the manufacturers have issues at times...


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## KevinE (Jul 23, 2015)

I am thinking of getting it fixed, however, I live in Canada, and would be facing over $100 in trans border shipping costs to get it to Lionel and back. I may just put a rectifier bridge into it so I can run it occasionally.
I don't find the sound to be that realistic on it anyway.
The dealer where I bought it is authorized and trained to fix MTH products, so that is another reason that I will be sticking with them.
Really feature for feature, the Railking with PS3 outperforms the Lionel LC+. The only reason I decided to try it was that it was available in Canadian Pacific and looked real nice in the showcase at a local hobby shop.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Unless something has changed, Lionel would be paying the return shipping. I can't believe it costs $100 one way! I've shipped stuff to Canada, it's more expensive than just in the US, but it's not that bad. Besides, I'd just take it to the dealer and let him deal with getting it fixed! That's why you buy through a LHS.


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## KevinE (Jul 23, 2015)

You are probably right, I may be overestimating the cost.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

My LC+ locos including two Pacifics are all solid and have given no problems. Like you I've had similar good results with MTH, although I consider their wireless tether to be so delicate and prone to not making good contact as to be a design flaw.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You ain't kidding Lee! I've got the third MTH RailKing Imperial Big Boy on the bench now. The problem? The "fabled" wireless drawbar shorts to the locomotive trailing truck and takes out both of the boards! The guy is looking at a $275 repair bill! I've seen two others with exactly the same problem.


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## chipset35 (Sep 4, 2015)

The LionChief Plus tether getting mangled and then trying to run it , was what fried mine.
Although, when it fell, it is also possible the hand rail got pushed deeper in.
Regardless, I am out $375+55=$430 at this point with a shelf queen.
Conversely, my Century Club PRR Turbine fell on a hard wood floor and still works fine.


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## KevinE (Jul 23, 2015)

Chipset, I would look closely at the handrail. I doubt that the tender connection would have done it as there is no power to the coupler unless the uncoupler button is pushed. Shorting the speaker wire usually would of just taken out the amplifier.

I posted my experience under yours so you would have something else to check.

Look at the ends of the handrails inside the shell, mine have signs of burning on each end and the stanchions melted. The motor power went to ground through it.


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## chipset35 (Sep 4, 2015)

KevinE said:


> Chipset, I would look closely at the handrail. I doubt that the tender connection would have done it as there is no power to the coupler unless the uncoupler button is pushed. Shorting the speaker wire usually would of just taken out the amplifier.
> 
> I posted my experience under yours so you would have something else to check.
> 
> Look at the ends of the handrails inside the shell, mine have signs of burning on each end and the stanchions melted. The motor power went to ground through it.


Ugh, mine look fine....


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

If the speaker wire is shorted to the frame, it could easily toast the electronics. The new designs do not have a common DC to frame ground, so shorting either speaker wire to ground would likely kill the board.


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## KevinE (Jul 23, 2015)

My broken LC+ Canadian Pacific "Pacific" is on it's way back to Lionel.

I shipped it back to my local dealer, who is 2 hours from me so I shipped it to him, rather than drive there.

He will take care of getting to Lionel and back.

It is a trans border shipment for me, so I will see how long it takes and how much the shipping ends up costing in total.

Hopefully, it gets back to me fully corrected and working again.

I will report back on my experience.


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