# loco cleaning basics.



## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

For the first time I'm opening up a few engines. These are my childhood life-like locos I want to get running better. I've got: 
-rubbing alcohol for removing grease and grime
-electromotive electric parts cleaner for cleaning metal parts only
-Excelle Grease
-Excelle lubicating oil
-Lots of q-tips.

A few questions:

1-metal axles that rest on plastic get grease or oil?
2-How shiny and clean to I need to get the pickup wheels? 
3-If parts cleaner isn't getting the wheels shiny should I use an abbasive?
4-Do I put any grease or lube on the little metal bits (brushes?) that are under the springs on the motors?

I appreciate any advice you all have to offer. I've got one of three done and am moving on to the second, but I'm not totally sure I did everything right.

I'm most concerned about the pickup wheels. I cleaned the contact surfaces until the cotton swabs wouldn't come away dirty but they are only truely shiny on the inside where the copper contact rubs against the wheel.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

I think you have it figured out, except for lubing the little springs under the brushes...I don't think I would do that. If it's clean in there, and dry, the springs should work freely. Maybe I'm wrong...

Metal axles in plastic bearings, or journals, or bushings....should have the less easily displaced lubes, so use a grease. Note that, if you are ever in a pinch for lubes for the rod pins and axle bearings on your locos, you can apply automatic transmission fluid of the Dextron III Mercon type using a sewing needles with half of the eye clipped off, leaving a fork. Dip the fork into the fluid, and touch to the axle ends. Mercon is safe for both paints and plastics. I have been using it for over a decade without a failure attributable to that lube.

Do not use an abrasive of any kind on the backs of your pickup wheels. Spray with a cleaner, let it sit, and then at most us a small remnant of a scotchbrite type of plastic scouring pad. If you just cant seem to get them clean enough, use emery paper or nothing coarser than 600 grit sand paper, just enough to dislodge any stubborn stuff. 

Be very careful of those wipers...they're fragile.


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## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

mesenteria said:


> I think you have it figured out, except for lubing the little springs under the brushes...I don't think I would do that. If it's clean in there, and dry, the springs should work freely. Maybe I'm wrong...
> 
> Metal axles in plastic bearings, or journals, or bushings....should have the less easily displaced lubes, so use a grease. Note that, if you are ever in a pinch for lubes for the rod pins and axle bearings on your locos, you can apply automatic transmission fluid of the Dextron III Mercon type using a sewing needles with half of the eye clipped off, leaving a fork. Dip the fork into the fluid, and touch to the axle ends. Mercon is safe for both paints and plastics. I have been using it for over a decade without a failure attributable to that lube.


Good to know!
I didn't lube the springs or brushes so I think I'm good there. 

Any advice regading wheels that still aren't shiny after cleaning?


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

Front or back? On the tread?

Many paint their wheel sides, the sides that show, with a brownish or blackish paint to make them look more realistic. If you mean the treads, I use small pieces of wood to scrub them clear of any crud, and then wipe the tires with some alcohol such as isopropyl alcohol. You can use solvents, but if you make a mistake and it comes into contact with your plastic and paints, you'll ruin the appearance of your rolling stock.

You can invert the engine and attempt to power it using wires and metal clips. If that is impossible, then place a clean shop towel over the rails and lightly impregnate it with alcohol. Hold the locomotive so that some axles get track power by contacting the rails and let the other drivers turn over the wet cloth.

Or, do the laborious job of placing the locomotive onto the rails, move it a few degrees of driver rotation, lift it, invert it, and clean the tires. Repeat.


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## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

Thanks for the advice. I've cleaned up 3 engines so far and while they are still cheap engines that don't do well at very slow speeds but they're runnign MUCH better than before and doing so reliably.

3 down 3 more to go!



mesenteria said:


> Front or back? On the tread?
> 
> Many paint their wheel sides, the sides that show, with a brownish or blackish paint to make them look more realistic. If you mean the treads, I use small pieces of wood to scrub them clear of any crud, and then wipe the tires with some alcohol such as isopropyl alcohol. You can use solvents, but if you make a mistake and it comes into contact with your plastic and paints, you'll ruin the appearance of your rolling stock.
> 
> ...


Sorry about the late reply. I'm referring to the wheels parts that conduct electricity. The wheels are brass and even after cleaning with cotton swab and electric parts cleaner the parts that rest on the rails still don't look shiny. They seem to work ok after cleaning but is there any reason related to quality of operation to find a way to clean them to a shine?


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