# Sticky  Need all of your threads on HOW-TOs, etc



## tworail

Everyone,

Would like your assistance in compiling a FAQ/resource for the site combining all our threads and the great contributions people have made.

If you have made a thread at some point, no matter how small or big, just post it here with the TITLE, link the to the thread, SCALE (or general if all scales) and some category ie engines, maintenance, electrical, etc.

The goal is to make a FAQ / Resource thread we can direct newcomers to as well as help keep the long time members brains from getting fried looking for stuff.

THANKS!


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## Boston&Maine

:smilie_daumenpos:

TITLE: Restoring Prewar Tinplate Trains
LINK: http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=312
SCALE: O and Standard
CATEGORY: Restoration? I guess


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## tworail

Awesome, keep them coming


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## T-Man

My initial intro number 142  On page 15! I think the membership was around 800 back then.



Yes ! A good idea, most forums dislike reviewing old threads but I encourage it.
My tags for threads need work. 
I'll reserve my spot here.
Lately,I have been reviewing my gallery and posting the url where they are found in the forum.

My Signature Links! Favorites of interest.

Railroad Rob's Pail Full of Train Takes My Photobucket albums
Railroad Rob's YouTube Train Adventures My You Tube Channel
LED USE  LED Flasher
Led refesher 2010
Reverse circuit
How to column Post number 4.
LED Flasher parts for variations
LED Lampost

Threads of interest.


Manuals

Accessories for the Layout
Junk Box
Motors of the Rue Morgue
259e Revival
Truck study
Strip paint off plastic
Remote Switch History Dates
Smoke unit conversion


Post War
Lionel part dealers
Look at at a Post War Lionel 027 6466X Whistle Tender
6111 Flatcar bracket chipped roof repair
Convert Babe Ruth frame to use on a tender shell
8141t or 8203t sound tender
waste car
wheel puller
022 switch
Revive an old cast engine hint.
Track Cleaning car
Track Difference O/027
Rewire a steamer motor
Clean a motor and e unit
Clean and ID an old engine
Clean Tubular Track
Clean a shell
8315 American
8351 Alco MPC

68 motor car
600 series switchers
2037 and e unit
520
Make a coal load
2353T
tank car modification - sub marine
rusty trucks and frame fix
Accessories thread Lionel Marx and scale items
My How to thread
Mold a part using Bondo
Caboose Mod
caboose roof repair-porthole type
Weathering by Ogage47 Good rust
truck cleaning and trestles
8141 engine
Turn AC motor to DC
Searchlight 3650
Scout 1062
chain link fence
My 2333 intro
currrent 2333 thread by igmuska
Plastic truck repair
Substitue for a seach light car lens
260 Bumper, 90 Control Button
6111 Flat Car Revisited
Metal frame, loads, tank car frame, and a tour car
Using a capacitor for car lighting
Track Isolation
Clean a shell
No 154 Highway Signal
1122 Switch
022 switch
Chain Link fence
Nails as joiners and axles
Joining O to 027 track trick
Tubular Track Mods,isolate rails for operating accessories. 
String a crane car 6460
Coupler for a SCOUT lash up.
2333 Ed's diagrams
Test a 70's 8141 chuff sound tender
Chain link ideas from members
E unit repair
Cast boiler strip and paint
Lionel 249 1958
Lionel 250 1957
open a 1015 transformer
239 Scout 1967
Bench test a steam electric motor
675/2025 shell painting
e unit drum
metal frame
Dc motor on AC
OTC CTC Lock ons
Milk car 3412
6019 track
Simple Hows
transformer buzz
smoke conversion kit by erkenband
600 series MKT
Caboose tune up
Metal frames and loads
Aluminum passenger cars
Diesel Horn Picture
Remove the e unit and wire up the motor to run.
Motor setup for bench test.
RCS for 6019
Make a Signal tower
Sound of Steam-70's
154 crossing

Lionel Pre War 
610,612 248
Blue Comet by TwoRail
1682 caboose
make a tin roof
track pliers
137 Station
Single axle trailing truck, steamer
224 engine
o21 manual switch
258 pic and thread
259e revival
1668
1668 motor 



MTH
MTH railsound link
another railsound

Marx
490 Loco
999 steam

I went through the 8 pages of 0 threads, I didn't get everything but it is a start.

HO
Installing a flasher into an Amtrak Engine
Loco wipers
Lighting a coach
Mantua side rod wrench and nutdriver
Fleischmann LOCO
Nails for HO flex track
Tyco Tires
Bach DieselHO Macao
0-8-0 Rivarossi
Rivarossi motor replacement
Oregon Rail Supply Signal Light KIt


Technical
DC Reverse Circuit
Update a power supply
LED use
LED Flasher
AC Coach Lighting
Bypass the e unit to test AC motor post #30
Test a 70's 8141 chuff sound tender
LED Refresher
AC LED coach lighting
Toy motors
Arc Welder Simulator
The Reverse board revisited in a step by step on how to build
LED Flasher parts to show variations
LED shop Light
End of Line Warning Light
O scale Helix, the ultimate incline

Other Great Contributions
The 1121 switch and bulb discussion
Galoob Micro Trains
How to phase a Lionel Transformer


Miscellaneous
Epoxy Formula


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## tankist

not sure if anything i ever posted qualifies for a "how-to".


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## T-Man

Anton,
Anything you go through the trouble of doing, just take pictures and give an explanation.

For example explain you mountain technique.
I am folowing your switch controller.


Yes I am bumping this thread.


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## Reckers

Can I assume you'd also like internet addresses for information sources? For example, a site with wiring diagrams or parts drawings and lists for locomotives (with engines!)?


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## T-Man

Besides this thread I only have my memory, the search engine and my listed subscriptions under user CP. I'd say go for it. This is the quickest for me.


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## Reckers

I'm better at "Where to?" than "How to?", at this point. I just dropped a list of my better where-to-go sites in the S scale section, so as not to overload your how-to segment. It's mostly sites I've collected on my AF stuff, but there are also a few general items like how to repair e-units, identify bridge types, etc. Feel free to copy out and repost anything you want to----all those AF repair manuals are at one of the addresses, too.


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## tankist

Since i was asked, here is my try at How-to article. "My terrain". I'm not much of a technical writer (and not much of English writer at that) - Tworail, you welcome to edit as you see fit for proper use of language.

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?p=16162


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## glgraphix

Here is the Q&A thread I got started about the change to DCC. I will post up some diagrams of intall and etc a little later...

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=1703

Kevin


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## tw001_tw

Out of all my posts, this so far is my only "kinda-how-to":

TITLE: Progress thread for making a layout
LINK: http://modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=1587
SCALE: N (can be applied to HO I would guess)
CATEGORY: layouts 


(if/when I make another I guess I edit this post?)


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## Boston&Maine

I am posting these on behalf of NTrainLover as he has not been on for a while...

TITLE: Converting Athearn Blue Box Locomotives to DCC
URL: http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=263
SCALE: HO
CATEGORY: DCC

TITLE: Installing DCC Ditchlights on Modern Locomotives
URL: http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=302
SCALE: HO
CATEGORY: DCC

TITLE: Making a 3% Grade Measuring Tool
URL: http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=541
SCALE: HO
CATEGORY: Tools?


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## Reckers

*DCC Computer Control*

This site: http://www.showcaseline.com/
has a push-button link to an excellent site for:

Computer Controlled DCC 



information about controlling a small DCC S-Gauge display layout with a DOS computer and Quickbasic, operating the train either around a circle or point-to-point. 
1. MPEG Videos
2. Introduction
3. Layout Photos
4. Wiring Schematic
5. Additional Comments
6. Copies Of QuickBasic Code
Appendix A. S Helper Tips For Viewing MPEGS
-- Related Pages -- 
AutoControls.org - G gauge relay & block multi-train systems
​


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## T-Man

Shay has good link Called HOseeker.
I used it the other day.


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## T-Man

*Ttt*

Hump this chump with a bump


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## glgraphix

T-Man said:


> Shay has good link Called HOseeker.
> I used it the other day.


Thanks, just used it this morning :thumbsup:


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## [email protected]

T-Man said:


> Shay has good link Called HOseeker.
> I used it the other day.


Is this a site for locating a prostitute?


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## T-Man

To be ultra conservative he posted a paper article. Quite posssibly unknown to him that paper has pictures appearing daily in another country that his wife would not approve of. I never mentioned it directly till now and the less said the better. He obviously reads the paper since he posted the article.
We do want to keep this forum family orientated.


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## Reckers

I'm now totally befuddled by this thread. However, it sounds as if any answer would have inappropriate content. *L* Best leave it alone.


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## Reckers

Okay---I just reread and caught it. *L*


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## MacDaddy55

*How to make Trees from Garden Plants:*

Couldn't get anything from Model Railroader(pay for downloaded articles...cm-on) on this subject so I'm gonna wing it as best I can:
*Step 1: Preparation of Sedum for Model Use: *Sedum a filler plant for gardens is best cultivated after the first frost of Autumn or as late as the first snow(just hurry or you'll freeze your tushkis! Cut in long lengths and place in an old laundry basket or pickle bucket and let dry(they should be relatively dry by the time you cut them. The sedum is brittle so it needs to be treated in a solution of 1 part matte medium to 4 parts water. 
* NOTE: *Get a couple sheets of old styrofoam and poke some holes in it for the sedum to stand in.
Soak the sedum for 20 sec. then gently shake off excess solution. Place stalks in styrofoam and let dry for a day. This process adds some resiliency to the stalks and easier to use without damage.
*Step 2 Building your trees:* Depending on what scale you are trying to model in trees use single stalk smaller sections for fruit trees, new growth, first line growth etc. Trim flower heads and stalks to size and save all the cuttings for smaller bushes, downed trees or logs. When making larger old growth use some gorilla glue and small clamps to join stalks for a fuller look. Once the glue has dried use simple calk to thicken the trunk(great for old oak and maple trees) When the calk dries just scrape the excess w/ a zacto knife. 
*Step 3: Add Mounting Pins:* Go to Walmart in the sewing section and get 150 straight pins for $2.00. sedum is hollow and you just need to put a spot of G-glue on the cut end of the stalk and slide a pin up into it. Again let dry sufficiently and now you have a handle for easier modeling.
*Step 4: Painting Stalks:* I used a dark gray and light gray primer for the stalks(use white for Birch). Get some large boxes and stick the trees in rows with enough room for paint coverage. Spray away making sure you rotate the box to cover the entire tree line. The article says to spray the underside of the flower heads but quite frankly its not necessary.
Adding the Foliage: Almost done and this is fun. In a bucket with a 50/50 solution of Elmer's glue and water dip the flower wends in, shake off the excess and dredge them in whatever combination of ground foam you desire. I used a combo of Woodland Scenic s fine green turf and Burnt Grass for a late summer look. I still have a dotting of green trees. Shake off the excess and place into the Styrofoam sheet again for drying overnight. You can do this assembly line style by soaking day one second assemble and paint and the third finish. It is great to see the final result. Any trees that don't look good just use as filler on the back of your layout...but they all will look good. This really saves on the wallet and is a great winter project!:thumbsup:


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## Reckers

Thanks for posting that, Mac! I was planning on trying it out if I can get enough sedum to make it worthwhile.


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## MacDaddy55

*But Hey...there's more!*

No problem Reck,
We have officially entered the 21st Century and have a new HP computer that is like driving a Porsche! I have a couple more pictures to post so here they are. If you can get to a nature center or botanical garden and ask about Sedum and if you can cultivate it in the fall or before the first snow(does it snow in Kentucky LOL....they might let you cut it! Hey B&M is there anyway to add photos to my previous post just for consolidation purposes!:thumbsup:


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## tankist

looks really good. what kind of tree those represent?
i don't think this thing grows in my yard. maybe i will need to plant some


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## MacDaddy55

Hey Tank,
My wife says Sedum is a Flower Garden filler that grows in thick clumps and once you plant it...it just takes off. We have a Nature center in town and I got permission to go in and cut as much as I wanted, thats about 6 bushes and I have accumulated about a metric ton of this stuff. Its definitely worth it and you can model the trees to your liking.:thumbsup: I am actually making some Birch trees now and will try some fall colors as the Midwest is famous for that...I guess! These trees are just.....Maple Trees I guess with some Jumbo Box Elders and Oak.....or maybe Fangorn Forrest!


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## tooter

This is the best HOW-TO idea I know about so far... 

How to make perfect flex track curves...


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## Smokestack Lightning

[email protected] said:


> Is this a site for locating a prostitute?


:laugh:


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## erkenbrand

Title: 2026 Smoker Conversion How To 
Gauge: O
Subject Area: Engines / Convert that pellet smoker to Liquid
Link: http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=5580


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## Kiwi

*Aluminium Track*

www.gscaletrains.net.nz


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## gc53dfgc

Converting different types of DC engines to DCC and some DCC sound engines.
DCC Installs.
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=5603


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## gunrunnerjohn

Project: Conversion of a conventional O-scale locomotive to TMCC command control with RailSounds, cruise control, and electrocouplers.

Williams GG-1 Conversion to TMCC w/cruise control


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## flyernut

Wow, some good stuff here. I don't know anything about linking or stuff, but if I can help anyone with flyer stuff, just drop me a email.


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## gunrunnerjohn

flyernut said:


> Wow, some good stuff here. I don't know anything about linking or stuff, but if I can help anyone with flyer stuff, just drop me a email.


The point of having them here is so that someone can search on them and find the information. It's not that hard to create a link.


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## flyvemaskin

Here is a cheap source for wire for your layout. A company was running phone cable in my neighborhood and left a bunch of one inch diameter wire on the ground. I watched it for weeks and no one came for it. Pieces ranged from 6 to 40 feet in length. Inside was crammed with tons of smaller wire and in dozens of solid colors. I took a utility knife and cut the outer rubber and removed it. I then rolled up rolls and rolls of small layout wire. I've used it on my 4x8 layout for everything. If ya watch or check with phone companies you should be able to get pieces they will throw away. Didn't cost me a dime.


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## gunrunnerjohn

Well, you have to luck into a time when they're tossing the stuff. FWIW, this is pretty rare today, the phone company doesn't do nearly as much copper work, and when they do, the scrap value of the wire is sufficient for them to take it with them.


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## flyboy2610

Title: Converting a Bachmann 0-6-0 dummy coupler to a Kadee coupler
Thread link: http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=9591
Scale: HO
Category: Engines

This deals with the conversion of a molded on dummy coupler, on the front of a Bachmann 0-6-0 tender equipped steam engine to a working Kadee #44 coupler. This will greatly improve the utility of this engine in switching operations.


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## ChopperCharles

tworail said:


> Everyone,
> 
> Would like your assistance in compiling a FAQ/resource for the site combining all our threads and the great contributions people have made.
> 
> If you have made a thread at some point, no matter how small or big, just post it here with the TITLE, link the to the thread, SCALE (or general if all scales) and some category ie engines, maintenance, electrical, etc.
> 
> The goal is to make a FAQ / Resource thread we can direct newcomers to as well as help keep the long time members brains from getting fried looking for stuff.
> 
> THANKS!


Title: Extend range of Hogwarts Express, Polar Express, and other Lionel R/C G-scale locomotives
Link: http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=10534
Scale: G
Category: ?


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## [email protected]

This YouTube Weathering Series was very useful for me. My first try was all the things that can be bad; way too much dust. This is #6. He does a tank car in this one. I have watched them all.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkkGa__6N_w

The wire idea is brilliant!


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## broox

any chance a mod can go thru the thread, gather the most relevant links and consolidate them into the first or second post? Would save me trawling thru it myself 

actually t-mans post is full of good stuff.

Feel free to ignore my post now


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## T-Man

The main reason for the How to thread was to gain access to past information. From this thread and my post number 4, I copied and started the O scale Sticky information thread. I work on them from time to time and now I am trying to "tag" threads for future use. The forum took a step backwards when the posting editor was placed on a time limit.hwell:

Now the only way to keep tabs on past post is to list them in your subscriptions or give them a tag that you will remember. The only thing you can update is your signature block. For a while I used that for links untill it got too big and I went to post number 4. Now you have to be a mod to edit a past post.


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## New Berlin RR

not sure if any of my threads are able to qualify as "how to" but most of my projects revolve around how to make things into something useable and fit more then one need, like a load of "scrap", I can try to find them and post them here if wanted!


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## tjcruiser

Sure ... compile a post with a list of links and one-line descriptions of each thread.

Thanks,

TJ


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## ICRR Junkie

*Blasted/cut away terrain*

I dont know how to word this, but along tracks, roads where the heavy rock is blasted away, I found this technique to look great.

Take a ceiling tile (compressed fiber; 1/2 thick or so) and cut them with a razor knife 4-6 inches wide, I used 4 inch wide strips so I could staple screen/paper strips to for hills, and then cut those strips to various lengths. With your strips cut them in 1/2 lightly scoring the bottom/top with a knife and then break the tile piece to get a jagged edge. Arrange the tiles where you want them to get the curve/straight-away you desire, and glue them together. Then you can paint and add scenik stuff (grass tufts, dirt, clumps etc).

Lemme know how yours turn out!

-Matt


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## gunrunnerjohn

Got any pictures of how they turned out for you?


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## ICRR Junkie

All my parts are boxed ATM due to heavy remodeling, but I will drag them out and take some pics for you guys!


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## gunrunnerjohn

Here's a useful tip for anyone that has the Lionel Legacy system. Most of us had a bunch of the blue modules that were left over from updates, trouble is they're just one-time use and never needed again.

Wouldn't it be nice if you could make writable modules out of them like the $19.99 Black Modules that Lionel sells? Now you can, and it's free. 

How to create Lionel Legacy Black writable modules for free.


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## Cprail43

Big Locos VS Curve Radius

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=15831

Info:
Will big engines like a EMD DD40AX go around a 22" radius curve? Find out in here!


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## tjcruiser

A "Make Your Own Coal Loads" thread, here:

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=16771

Thanks to Danny for this one.

TJ


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## Raptorman83

Custom Foam Risers 4CHEAP! 

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?p=194802#post194802


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## Nuttin But Flyer

I found this website that offers some great tips and ideas to help create good layouts and correct wiring techniques....

http://www.slsprr.net/default.htm

It is not specifically for American Flyer or 2-rail track. In fact, it mainly shows Lionel 3-rail track. But the tips are worth everyone's review.

Perhaps one of the MTF mods can place a copy in the proper thread for use and easy access by all members??


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## tjcruiser

Nice find, Don!

That's a meticulous layout setup on that site, with excellent how-to info ... wiring, transformer phasing, helix cstr ideas, etc.

Thanks!

TJ


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## morrjr

*easy way to add weight to train cars*

I've found an easy way to add weight to passenger cars without interiors, freight cars like box cars and covered hoppers, and maybe tank cars (if you can get inside of them). I use stick-on wheel weights that are sold for automobiles and motorcycles. They come in 1/4 ounce sizes, and you decide how many to use. I usually place the weights on the floor of the cars over the trucks or as near to the trucks as is practical. The black powder coated ones are nearly invisible when attached to the floor of passenger cars, and either silver or black can be used in the other cars.


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## Big Ed

morrjr said:


> I've found an easy way to add weight to passenger cars without interiors, freight cars like box cars and covered hoppers, and maybe tank cars (if you can get inside of them). I use stick-on wheel weights that are sold for automobiles and motorcycles. They come in 1/4 ounce sizes, and you decide how many to use. I usually place the weights on the floor of the cars over the trucks or as near to the trucks as is practical. The black powder coated ones are nearly invisible when attached to the floor of passenger cars, and either silver or black can be used in the other cars.


Good ideal.
Thanks for sharing. :smokin::thumbsup:


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## gunrunnerjohn

I've been using wheel weights for years, for O-gauge I just keep the 1oz weights around. I'll have to check for the black ones, that would be a good choice for sticking under the floor of boxcars. :thumbsup:


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## Magic

I use fishing sinkers for weights, a little work out with a 2 pound hammer and a concrete floor makes nice little flat square blocks. Glue them down with Dap marine silicone. Stuff makes wonderful glue for things you may want to take apart later and Mr. no plane here has to take lots of things apart later. The best part is that the silicone cleans off the parts and leaves clean surfaces. 

Magic


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## Big Ed

Magic said:


> I use fishing sinkers for weights, a little work out with a 2 pound hammer and a concrete floor makes nice little flat square blocks. Glue them down with Dap marine silicone. Stuff makes wonderful glue for things you may want to take apart later and Mr. no plane here has to take lots of things apart later. The best part is that the silicone cleans off the parts and leaves clean surfaces.
> 
> Magic


Aren't the newer fishing sinkers made of something other then lead nowadays?

Better yet take the sinkers and melt them down, make a mold the shape you need, let them dry then DAP them down.


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## rhfil

*lead poison*

Contact with lead from old fishing weights, tire balancing weights, etc. is toxic and should be avoided including the fumes resulting from melting lead. You can do it just take proper precautions - especially if there are children around.


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## mikek

For weight, I have a bag of BBs and Elmer's glue.
Has anybody else noticed that regular paper staples are just the right size for handrail stanchions? Already bent at the right height, already zinc plated, already flattened. Just railed my u-boat easy-peasy using .020" music wire for the rails. Stronger and stiffer than brass, but works easy with needle nose pliers. Take care when cutting music wire, it will fly.


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## nearboston

Those little tubes of Cyanoacrylate adhesive are great but I was wasting a lot because the screw top would get an accumulation, fail to seal, and the tubes would either dry out or leak after only one or two applications.

What I do now is before I puncture the end to open it up, I spray the inside of the cap with either mold release, WD-40, or any other spray lubricant. Shake off the sxcess and let it dry. I have found that this helps immensely, and after a few years of doing itI have yet to see any cross contamination problems.


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## RedManBlueState

I find the tiny BOTTLES of Krazy Glue stay liquid, whereas the tubes clog up within 2 months of first use.

I can usually get the bottles in a 2 pack at the Dollar Store.


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## gunrunnerjohn

I use the 2oz bottles from Loctite, they last for a long time for me. The key is to clear the nozzle, wipe off the excess, and get the top back on.

I keep the #380, #416, and the #495 on hand.


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## teledoc

*Remote Controller re-wire technique (RCS-20;6019-20;USC40)*

How many have had to rewire the Lionel 2 button controllers, used on the remote track sections, and been frustrated with trying to unsolder the old wires, and soldering new wires, without causing disasters to the plastic covers? I found a solution, that is simple and doesn't damage (melting) of the covers. It requires the use of a "Third Hand Device" (I purchased mine from Radio Shack), and some short "Ty-Wraps/Zip ties". I had a bunch of used controllers that had the wires cut, and needed to put new wires on, for future use. 

Remove the bottom cover, to access the contacts. I then slip small "Ty-Wraps" under the contacts, toward the outer limits of the contacts. Cinch up the ty wraps, so that all the contacts are held tight. Next, you remove the center screw, and set aside, and remove the contact assembly as one whole unit. Mount the assembly onto the "Third Hand", by the ends of the contacts. (Mark down the order of the wires, as to which wire goes to which contact), and unsolder the old wires. Cut the new wires, strip the ends, and tin new solder to the ends. Attach the new (4 conductor) wires to the appropriate contact, and re-solder each to the contact assembly. Put the assembly back into the cover, reinsert the square washer and screw, cut off the "Ty-Wraps", put the bottom cover back on, and all done. SIMPLE, QUICK, EASY TO DO.


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## erkenbrand

Great tip! I like how you bundled it all together.


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## mikek

Don't know if this has been posted already. I come across split gears, and replacements are expensive. What I do now is take a lock washer that's a tight fit on the shoulder of the gear and force it on. I put some super glue in the crack, trying to avoid the gear mesh area. The lock washer us usually smaller than the gear outside diameter, and as long as it doesn't hit anything it provides enough force to keep the gear together so it doesn't make noise.
I can adjust the size of the lock washer with my needle nose pliers if necessary, and usually flatten it out, too.


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## Yukon Jack

Marx 666/1666 Smoke Unit Rebuild Tutorial
O Guage
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=32218&highlight=Yukon+Jack
Marx
Tutorial on rebuilding the smoke unit in the Marx 666/1666 locomotives.


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## MacDaddy55

*Tree Making Season!!*



MacDaddy55 said:


> Couldn't get anything from Model Railroader(pay for downloaded articles...cm-on) on this subject so I'm gonna wing it as best I can:
> *Step 1: Preparation of Sedum for Model Use: *Sedum a filler plant for gardens is best cultivated after the first frost of Autumn or as late as the first snow(just hurry or you'll freeze your tushkis! Cut in long lengths and place in an old laundry basket or pickle bucket and let dry(they should be relatively dry by the time you cut them. The sedum is brittle so it needs to be treated in a solution of 1 part matte medium to 4 parts water.
> * NOTE: *Get a couple sheets of old styrofoam and poke some holes in it for the sedum to stand in.
> Soak the sedum for 20 sec. then gently shake off excess solution. Place stalks in styrofoam and let dry for a day. This process adds some resiliency to the stalks and easier to use without damage.
> *Step 2 Building your trees:* Depending on what scale you are trying to model in trees use single stalk smaller sections for fruit trees, new growth, first line growth etc. Trim flower heads and stalks to size and save all the cuttings for smaller bushes, downed trees or logs. When making larger old growth use some gorilla glue and small clamps to join stalks for a fuller look. Once the glue has dried use simple calk to thicken the trunk(great for old oak and maple trees) When the calk dries just scrape the excess w/ a zacto knife.
> *Step 3: Add Mounting Pins:* Go to Walmart in the sewing section and get 150 straight pins for $2.00. sedum is hollow and you just need to put a spot of G-glue on the cut end of the stalk and slide a pin up into it. Again let dry sufficiently and now you have a handle for easier modeling.
> *Step 4: Painting Stalks:* I used a dark gray and light gray primer for the stalks(use white for Birch). Get some large boxes and stick the trees in rows with enough room for paint coverage. Spray away making sure you rotate the box to cover the entire tree line. The article says to spray the underside of the flower heads but quite frankly its not necessary.
> Adding the Foliage: Almost done and this is fun. In a bucket with a 50/50 solution of Elmer's glue and water dip the flower wends in, shake off the excess and dredge them in whatever combination of ground foam you desire. I used a combo of Woodland Scenic s fine green turf and Burnt Grass for a late summer look. I still have a dotting of green trees. Shake off the excess and place into the Styrofoam sheet again for drying overnight. You can do this assembly line style by soaking day one second assemble and paint and the third finish. It is great to see the final result. Any trees that don't look good just use as filler on the back of your layout...but they all will look good. This really saves on the wallet and is a great winter project!:thumbsup:


My next door neighbor is getting their garden ready for next spring and I just have to wait for the temp to drop down so I can cultivate the Sedum they have. Great winter project and boy is it cheaper than buying ready made trees!! Just a sample on our Layout!


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## Don F

*Building a wood trestle*

In the first photo, I made a jig for the sub structure to hold it in place. I spaced notches in three blocks of wood to fit the beams. After all the bottom beams are in place, it's time for the cross members. Photo two shows the setback for the end beams. This is where the bridge will rest on the supports. Photos three, four and five show placement and pre-drilling of the cross beams. I used brads and glue to secure the beams. For the real anal modelers, the heads can be filed or ground square to look like bolts. 
Photo six shows the notches for the center posts. I used a fine tooth trim saw and 1/8" chisel to mortise the notches. Photo seven shows the placement of the outside and center posts, again using brad nails and glue. Photo eight shows the use of clamps to secure the posts during the gluing process. The saw I used is in the background.
Photos nine and ten show the top structure. In photo nine, notice that the beams are notched on both the main and cross beams. The structure is glued and clamped, the set aside to dry.
I'll continue this on another post, as I don't want to overload the photos, as I may loose them if I upload too many. This happened before.
Don


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## Don F

*Building a wood trestle*

The next two photos show the placement of the decking. I wanted my bridge to represent an old heavily used bridge, so I ripped very thin strips of wood, and mixed in boards that show age and rot. 
The next three photos show the cross bracing for the top structure. This was done after installing the decking, to allow easy access to the inside of the bridge.
The next photo shows the braces from the top structure to the bridge deck. Again, I used brad nails and glue.
The next photos show the decorative braces from the posts to the top beams. I made a template, and traced and cut the braces, and my capable assistant, son Mark sculpted the braces using the drum on the belt sander. Mark also installed most of the walkway decking.
The next step was staining. I use a mixture of Lamp Black and water. Lamp Black is basically chimney soot, and is used as a dye for cement. Depending on the amount of dye used, this will determine the degree of color. The more dye, the darker the color. To weather surfaces that are more affected by the elements, I use a rag to rub some of the stain off. This leaves a lighter gray. This stain needs to be coated with a flat sealer, as the stain will rub off.
The next two photos show Mark burning part of the bridge to represent a fire, possibly from a hot box, or cinders from a locomotive. To complete this scene, I placed a new beam on the deck, along with a few piles of decking to bring the bridge back up to code. 
The last photo Shows and end view, looking into the bridge. The railing in the center is made from brass brazing rod. Holes are drilled in the base beam, and the posts to accept the rail and stanchions, which are soldered where the they intersect. Mark also had a hand in the soldering. 
This bridge, and a sister bridge, along with an open deck truss bridge were built for my outside suspended layout. I also made a steel bridge to cross the door opening to my workshop.
Don


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## mikek

Really nice bridge there, Don.
The tool on my wish list is a table belt/disk sander from Harbor Freight. Usually around $60, sometimes on sale. Perfect for such work, as the disk has a fence that can be angled for miter joints. It's tough holding a hand sander. When doing things like picture frames, the miter capability makes perfect, really smooth joints, a saw always tears the wood a bit.


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## Don F

mikek said:


> Really nice bridge there, Don.
> The tool on my wish list is a table belt/disk sander from Harbor Freight. Usually around $60, sometimes on sale. Perfect for such work, as the disk has a fence that can be angled for miter joints. It's tough holding a hand sander. When doing things like picture frames, the miter capability makes perfect, really smooth joints, a saw always tears the wood a bit.


 Thanks Mike. I have a Grizzly combo disc/belt sander, but I don't think I had it when I made the bridges. I also now have a drum sander with several different sized drums. That would have really been quite valuable when making the braces. My son Mark who helped me, wants to make bridges to sell. I had plans to do this when I first made the bridges, but my wife was not at all happy with the idea. I even had cards printed, and was going to take the bridges to York. I still have the cards, and now Mark has given me food for thought. The wood bridges are fairly easy to make. 
I will be uploading photos of a steel bridge I made for the same layout when time permits. I was off today, so in between cleaning my shop, and my wife at work, I had plenty of computer time today.
Don


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## Don F

*Steel through deck girder bridge*

This bridge was designed to span the door opening to my work shop. The covered patio attached to the shop is the location of my suspended layout. It is about sixteen feet long, by ten feet wide. 
The first two photos show the I beams I made fro the deck. The bridge is all steel, and the beams are three pieces soldered together to form the I beam.
The next photo shows a section of the grid work made with the I beams. Again, the grid is soldered.
The next photo shows the track in the grid work. The cross beams are spaced to fit between the ties, and the span beams are positioned under the rails.
The next photo shows the rivets being punched into the side panel. The side panels were made by determining the length and height needed to span the door opening to the workshop. The panels were made by first punching the rivets, and then folding the panel in half. The bridge was modeled after a prototype that spans a four lane road in nearby Kingston Pa. the panels consist of three separate sections that are joined by splines at the ends. The center section is higher to prevent a train from falling to the roadway should there be a derailment.
The next several photos show the various stages in the assembly of the panels.
The reinforcing angle iron sections are individually riveted and bent, the applied to the wall panels. To save on labor, I only used the angle iron pieces on the outside of the panels, since the inside is not easily visible unless standing on a ladder. The top and bottom flanges are also separately applied, and the bottom flange serves as the support for the grid structure.
The next photos show the cross bracing under the deck structure. Again, all bracing pieces are individually cut and soldered.
The last photos show the completed bridge.
The total width of the bridge is approximately forty one inches. This was an enjoyable project, but very labor intensive and time consuming. Shortly after completing the bridge, I found out about resistance soldering, which is a process that only delivers heat to the area being soldered. If my son and I do decide to make these steel bridges, I'll be sure to invest in a resistance soldering unit.


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## Lee Willis

Cool bridge. Nice!


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## Cycleops

Very nice bridge. Looks like you could prefabricate a real one with all that equipment!


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## Don F

Thanks Lee and Cycleops, (interesting handle), the shop is fairly well equipped. I also do a lot of work in our shop at the school district I work at. The industrial arts Department has two well equipped classrooms also. I work on my projects on breaks and lunches, and this helps keep the peace at home.
Don


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## Big Ed

Just magnificent. :smilie_daumenpos:
It does look like a lot of work, you should paint your RR's name onto it?
How many man hours were involved in the creation?

Did you calculate how many tons it will hold? 

Side note,
You could have added all your captions above each picture explaining each step you know?
It would make it easier to follow all the steps of your progress.
If you want you could just copy and paste your steps and insert them above the photos.
Keep that in mind for future pictorials?

Very nice work Don. :thumbsup:


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## Big Ed

Wow......I just noticed your wooden trestle build pictorial too.
I somehow missed it before today. :dunno:

Another labor intensive beeeeu tifull creation. :smilie_daumenpos:


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## Don F

Thanks Big Ed. I suppose I could edit the text and include it with the appropriate photos. How much time do I have before the edit option is no longer available?
The wood bridges take probably less then a third of the time it took for the steel bridge. The only slow down is clamp and glue setting time. 
Don


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## Big Ed

Don F said:


> Thanks Big Ed. I suppose I could edit the text and include it with the appropriate photos. How much time do I have before the edit option is no longer available?
> The wood bridges take probably less then a third of the time it took for the steel bridge. The only slow down is clamp and glue setting time.
> Don


48 hours to edit, right down to the last second.:smilie_daumenneg:



The wooden one is too late now to edit. (a mod might for you?)
But it is no big deal, just keep that in mind for the next one.
Just a suggestion, it would be easier for all to see, read and follow.

Insert your pictures into your post while your making it, then caption each one. 

Hit *preview post* as your doing it so you can see that they are in the right spot for you.

Then don't forget to hit* submit reply* when your finished. 

You ought to make a custom Hell gate bridge. :thumbsup:


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## Don F

big ed said:


> Just magnificent. :smilie_daumenpos:
> It does look like a lot of work, you should paint your RR's name onto it?
> How many man hours were involved in the creation?
> 
> Did you calculate how many tons it will hold?
> 
> 
> Very nice work Don. :thumbsup:


Thanks Big Ed. I didn't keep track of the hours, but it did take about a month to build. I probably didn't work on it every day, and then it was an hour or two a day when I did. 
My best guess as to how much it could hold, maybe two people hanging on it? It would be as strong as the weakest solder joints. I wouldn't want to find out though! 
I'd have to have plans for the Hell Gate, but that would be an interesting build. 
I would really like to make a model of the Brooklyn Bridge. 
Don


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## Don F

*Good father son/daughter bridge project*

When my youngest son Mark was in seventh grade, he had to do a history project, and I don't remember if he chose the PA Railroad, or if it was assigned. I should mention that his teacher is a train guy. Anyway, he had to do a written report, and a project, so we decided to do a section of the Rockville Bridge crossing the Susquehanna River in Harrisburg PA out of styrofoam. This was a relatively simple project, which taught him framing, hot carving, soldering, and finishing techniques. 
The first photo shows some of the framing used to support the rigid foam, and the foam siding backer used for the arches. The framing is made from wood and cardboard.








The next two photo show the completed frame work with 1/4" luan plywood for the bridge deck.















The next photo shows the fitting of the arch foam.








These two photos show the carving of the stones in the foam using a soldering iron.















The next series of photos shows the coloring process. We used spray cans, so we had to be very careful to apply very light mist coats so as not to melt the foam. We used black, gray, white, brown and green in successive mist coats.






















The next two photos show the railing. This was made using 1/16" brass rod. By examining photos of the prototype, we determined that the posts were an inverted U, (hairpin), with the rails attached at the top and center. These parts were fitted and soldered.















Next deck stones, which we carved from two single pieces of foam board.








The remaining photos are of the completed bridge.





























We enjoyed this project, and Mark's teacher was quite impressed. The bridge is part of the staging yard in my shop for the suspended layout.
Don


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## gunrunnerjohn

That's a great project, and it came out really nice!


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## Don F

Thanks John, it's H\hard to believe that was ten years ago already. I'm still considering his suggestion to build bridges again.
Don


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## BFI66

Here's my contribution, a thread where I made rock face terrain out of ceiling tiles and a waterfall utilizing silicone.

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=39473

-Pete


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## nearboston

That's a fantastic bridge project.


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## Don F

nearboston said:


> That's a fantastic bridge project.


Thank you.


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## nearboston

I am using alcohol-based hand sanitizer such as Purell to soften paint on a locomotive I am modifying.

The plusses are that it's easily available, the fumes aren't offensive or pervasive and its a semi-gel that stays where you want it.
The down side is that it takes longer to work.


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## Don F

A few items that can be adapted to the hobby: 1/8" wire screen for window frames, and zip ties for ramps. The zip ties come in several widths, and can be adapted to several scales.


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## Don F

The wire window frames are for a scrap load I'm making, hence the bent ones, but these can be adapted to scratch building or kit bashing.
The ramps were sprayed with silver, then misted with gray primer to dull them. The width of these ties is 3/1`6", which would be more suitable for HO or S gauge, but could be used as ramps for oil changes on an O gauge car or light truck. They can be bent and painted red.


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## santafealltheway

Great video for adding rivet details!


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## Don F

Clever procedure. Several years ago, I made a through plate girder bridge from steel sheet. I used a masonry nail with a sharpened point to punch rivet impressions from the back of the sheet metal.


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## gunrunnerjohn

Good job with the rivet detail, that's pretty nice.


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## Don F

Recently, I posted some pics of some ramps I made from Zip Ties. This evening, I made some car ramps that someone mentioned. I just bent the ties with needle nose pliers; the ties held the new shape quite well. I then sprayed them with some Krylon red oxide primer. This is brighter then the other red oxide I have. 















I also made a jig from a scrap piece of wood for making sections of guide rail. I used a router with a very small bit to make a half round depression about 1/8" from the edge; I went just a little deep, so I'll make another jig. I then rounded the edge with sand paper to get the rolled upper and lower sections of the guide rail. I used foil lid material from iced tea mix, since it is thick enough to hold its shape, and thin enough to mold easily. I used a small brad to pierce the bolt holes used to anchor the rail to the posts. Since this is fro a scrap load, I don't have to be too fussy, as the rails are bent, to simulate a wreck and removal situation. 
The foil is also great for making auto and truck body parts.


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## Don F

I had a small project along the side of the house, and needed a short piece of small diameter rod to pierce a caulking tube. The closest thing at hand, was a handle from a 5 gal. plastic pail. As I cut the plastic hand grip off, I realized a use for it almost instantly; Terracotta pipe! I cut the center ridge out on the chop saw, painted it with Rustoleum red oxide primer, and done. They do need a little trim on the inside of the cut end, but this project took longer for the paint to dry. The inside diameter is abut 5/16" at the small end, and 3/8" at the bell. Not knowing what the scale length of a pipe this diameter would be, I left the pieces at 1 3/8", which is 6' 6".


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## traction fan

*Handy tool cady*

After sitting on a stool to work on my layout, and getting up a lot to retrieve tools; I came up with this. Now all the tools needed are within reach of the stool. The tool holder is made of a 1x6 glued to a 1x4 and clamped to the fascia wherever needed.

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## traction fan

*Homemade resistance soldering tool / hot wire foam cutter*

I made this resistance soldering rig from a low voltage, high current transformer, relay, foot switch high quality tweezers, and a steel case. If you are seriously interested in making your own send me a P.M. for details. The hot wire foam cutter is as simple as they come. A 1x2 wooden handle and a piece of music wire hooked up to the resistance soldering rig in place of the tweezers.

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## traction fan

*Are these posts acceptable*



tworail said:


> Everyone,
> 
> Would like your assistance in compiling a FAQ/resource for the site combining all our threads and the great contributions people have made.
> 
> If you have made a thread at some point, no matter how small or big, just post it here with the TITLE, link the to the thread, SCALE (or general if all scales) and some category ie engines, maintenance, electrical, etc.
> 
> The goal is to make a FAQ / Resource thread we can direct newcomers to as well as help keep the long time members brains from getting fried looking for stuff.
> 
> THANKS!


tworail;

I have recent forum posts (General model train discussion section) on making pine trees, improving Atlas turnouts,and scratch-building turnouts. Would you please look at them and let me know if they would be OK for this "How To" sticky thread? All three are quite long and contain many photos. 

Thanks;

Traction Fan


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## Don F

Traction fan, I would be interested in a resistance soldering unit. Several years ago, I made a bridge from steel, and soldered it using a propane torch with a soldering tip. It was a bit difficult controlling the heat, as there were many small pieces. I had read about resistance soldering on another forum after I had finished the project, and a friend offered to lend me his, but I no longer had a need. I have been considering building the bridges again, so the R S method would be the way to go. My e mail is included on my web site which appears at the bottom of my posts.


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## traction fan

*REsistance soldering*



Don F said:


> Traction fan, I would be interested in a resistance soldering unit. Several years ago, I made a bridge from steel, and soldered it using a propane torch with a soldering tip. It was a bit difficult controlling the heat, as there were many small pieces. I had read about resistance soldering on another forum after I had finished the project, and a friend offered to lend me his, but I no longer had a need. I have been considering building the bridges again, so the R S method would be the way to go. My e mail is included on my web site which appears at the bottom of my posts.


Don F;

I checked your website and got the e-mail address. I also saw that you are modeling in O-scale. If that is so then you're going to be using some big parts. (I'm in N-scale) I'm not sure that my unit would produce enough heat to do what you want. However there's no reason you couldn't build a higher power model. I have had little success soldering steel. I've heard of it and even tried it with steel wire for my catenary. However the steel never seems to form a strong permanent joint. The joints once made, tended to come apart fairly easily. I have since switched to brass poles and phosphor bronze wire, both of which solder extremely well, forming very strong, and permanent, joints. 
I'll be happy to e-mail info to you, but have you considered/rejected some sort of small arc welding tool? I think it might be able to produce much better joints in steel, than soldering.

Regards;

Traction Fan


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## traction fan

*Turnouts for five dollars each?*

Turnouts (track switches) are one of the more expensive items for model railroaders. Good quality commercial turnouts retail for about $30 ea. Tortoise or other quality switch machines can also run up the budget in a hurry, when you need a lot of them.
If you are strapped for hobby cash, but have plenty of time available, you can spend a lot less cash at the expense of spending a lot more time, by scratch-building your own turnouts. This is not difficult to do. You don't need eyes like an eagle or the hands of a surgeon. You will need to know how to solder, and be willing to trade your time for your money. My post, How I scratch-build turnouts (attached) shows what tools and materials you will need and goes into more detail about price and labor time. If you are interested, read through it and see if if you want to give it a try.

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:

View attachment How I scratch build turnouts new.pdf


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## Don F

traction fan said:


> Don F;
> 
> I checked your website and got the e-mail address. I also saw that you are modeling in O-scale. If that is so then you're going to be using some big parts. (I'm in N-scale) I'm not sure that my unit would produce enough heat to do what you want. However there's no reason you couldn't build a higher power model. I have had little success soldering steel. I've heard of it and even tried it with steel wire for my catenary. However the steel never seems to form a strong permanent joint. The joints once made, tended to come apart fairly easily. I have since switched to brass poles and phosphor bronze wire, both of which solder extremely well, forming very strong, and permanent, joints.
> I'll be happy to e-mail info to you, but have you considered/rejected some sort of small arc welding tool? I think it might be able to produce much better joints in steel, than soldering.
> 
> Regards;
> 
> Traction Fan


I had no problem getting satisfactory joints, but with so many small parts so close together, I had to use a lot of clamps to keep nearby joints from releasing. Here are a few pics of the bridge.
I would appreciate you sending the how to info for the resistance soldering rig.
Don


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## traction fan

*Wow!*



Don F said:


> I had no problem getting satisfactory joints, but with so many small parts so close together, I had to use a lot of clamps to keep nearby joints from releasing. Here are a few pics of the bridge.
> I would appreciate you sending the how to info for the resistance soldering rig.
> Don
> View attachment 221010
> 
> 
> View attachment 221018
> 
> 
> View attachment 221034
> 
> 
> View attachment 221042
> 
> 
> View attachment 221050
> 
> 
> View attachment 221058
> 
> 
> View attachment 221066
> 
> 
> View attachment 221074


 Don F;

That is some great work! Fantastic! 
Resistance soldering, if you have not done it, is all about low voltage and high current. I will send the specs. on the transformer I used, but I think you will need to use a bigger version for the size and material you are using. I run it at full current to solder N-scale brass pieces together. I'll send you a P.M. with the info. What kind of solder did you use on your bridge model?

Traction Fan
PS. here's a few photos of my stuff.


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## Don F

Nice work, must be tricky working on things that small!


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## Lemonhawk

Don, that is a real BRIDGE! Terrific job doing all the rivets and structure under the rail.


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## Don F

Lemonhawk,
Thank you. It was a fun project. The rivets were hand punched using a masonry nail with a point. I made the sides so they could be folded after the rivets were punched so the detail would be on both sides. I work for a school district that once had a metal shop. There was a full rack of all different sizes of flat stock and sheet steel, both galvanized and bare steel. Our maintenance department took it when the shop teacher wanted to clear house. We also acquired all the sheet metal tools, and a small break and shear. We also have a large band saw, a small band saw, a table saw and many other power and hand tools. I did intend to make these to sell at train shows, but my wife said I already spend too much time in the workshop. I'm nearing retirement, so that may be the impetus to get back into it again.
This bridge was made for my shelf layout around the ceiling of a covered patio attached to the workshop, and abutting our pond. I also made three wood bridges for the layout with the help of my son Mark.


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## Don F

My oldest son and a friend are raising bees for honey, and he recently acquired some hives from a keeper who was getting out of the business. He had to burn several due to disease and bugs, and these wire dividers were left in the ashes. These will make great railings; they are stainless steel, and the spacing between rails is 1/4", and the spacing between posts ranges from 3 1/2", to 2 3/4", and are 14" long. it's unfortunate that all the post spacing isn't the same.


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## Don F

*Making A Coal Load*

I am going to share my process for making coal and other loads for O and S gauge hoppers and gondolas. I use 1/4" Luan plywood, Black Beauty sand blast fine grit, and water base urethane industrial floor finish. 
The first step is to select a hopper; I am currently making loads for Weaver 3 and 4 bay hoppers. Note: these hoppers, regardless of type, all have the same inside dimensions. This is true for the new Lionscale 3 bay hoppers by Lionel, which use former Weaver Models tooling.
The second step is to determine the inside dimensions of the hopper. For a snug fit, it is important to measure the inside length and width precisely. The next measurement is the depth to the slope sheet; this is the point where the taper to the bottom of the hopper begins. In the Weaver 2 and 3 bay hoppers this measurement is 5/8". Depending on one's preference for load height, this will determine the height of the legs under the load base. Since Luan plywood is not a full 1/4" thickness, I use 3/8" legs cut at 2" long, about 1/4" short of the actual width.
Since I make many coal loads for most manufacturers' cars, I have templates for the load bases, aand most hopper shells for fitting the loads. If legs are required, that info, including size is included on the template. I have made loads requiring the customer to send the car I may not have, for proper fit. While I have the car, I make a "mold" of the car using rigid plastic, again marking pertinent information on the mold.





















Making the base with the template requires using the template to set the width on the table saw, the length on the chop saw. I cut one sample for width and length to make sure the saws are set correctly, then proceed to cut the desired amount of bases. I have containers with ready cut legs, and for popular loads, I do the same with bases. 
After the base is cut to width and length, I use the 6" belt sander to slightly taper the edges, and final sand for the a fit that is snug, but releases with just a slight tap. I use the disk sander to adjust the length. I clamp a guide square to the disc for this step.





















Now that the base fits properly, I glue the legs to the base using Franklin's Tite-Bond exterior wood glue. Be sure to glue the legs to the bottom tapered side if you choose to taper the base. I keep the legs about 1/8" from the end of the base. This allows for "glooze",and also lets the load rest a little lower on the slope sheet, so the load is not level with, or above the sides. For longer loads, I use a stiffening rib glued to the bottom to control warping. Luan is a light yet strong and resilient material, but it is still subject to warping.





















The next step is to add some build up wood to define the load, and save on material and weight. I first determine what type of load I want to make, a humped load, or piles. For a humped load, make a strip about 1 1/2" narrower, and about 2" shorter then the base, or about 2/4" from the sides, and 1" from each end. For pile loads, determine how many piles, and cut small squares and space evenly. Glue and let dry. Spray paint the bottom and edges completely, and around the perimeter of the top with flat black paint. It is not necessary to paint the bottom, but do spray the top. If there are any spots that might have been missed, or some material should rub off, there will be a black background so it won't be noticeable.



































After the blanks are dry, it's time for the fun. To make the loads, I use a very low tech approach. I have two stations side by side. One station is for applying the urethane, and the second is for building up the loads. I use a plastic container in a cardboard box with the front cut out, as I use a plant misting spray bottle to apply the urethane. I have a rest which accepts all the different types of loads I make that sits inside the container. The second station is for applying the Black Beauty. Any coal product can be substituted. I use Black Beauty fine, as it scales to about the size of "Chestnut" coal. There are coarser grits available. Black Beauty is relatively cheap. The last time I bought a 100 pound bag, it was under $20.














Be sure the stations are level, (it may be necessary to shim), so the urethane doesn't run off the blank. Lay the blank on the elevated holder. Note: for comfort, raise the stations to a level that requires the least amount of bending. Spray the blank with urethane to the point of creating a large puddle. Surface tension and a level surface will be your friend. Move the blank to the build-up station, and grab some material mostly between the thumb and fore finger, and sprinkle the material around the perimeter first. Check for bare spots and re-sprinkle any, then proceed to fill in the middle. Do not pile the material, instead, spread it evenly. Return to the spray station and apply another coat of urethane, almost to the point of puddling again. Back to the build-up table, and begin covering the blocks with a few sprinkles on each, the spray again with urethane. This ensures a complete saturation of all the material. Add more material to the piles, making sure the edges are not visible. A well mounded pile forming a rounded peak is what you want. Return. Using a pair of good tweezers, remove any discolored or mis-shaped granules from the load before applying a final spray of urethane. This step is not necessary with a packaged coal product. Place load on a flat tray to dry. Move load after sitting for a while to prevent it from sticking to the tray. Loads may take several days to dry completely, at which time they can sanded lightly on the edges with a file, (in a downward motion only), to remove any excess urethane, and test fitted into the hopper. Some additional filing, or sanding may be necessary. Keep a rag close by to wipe your fingers, and work in a well lit area, and use those glasses!.
























































I made two Weaver 4 bay loads, which I usually make as auto Flood loads. I use the same technique as the hump load, then use a load blank to gently press down the final pass of material prior to spraying the final coat of urethane. This creates a flat center replicating the fill chute dragging across the top of the hopper as it passe under the loading facility.














Lastly, it is important to thoroughly clean the spray bottle. Completely disassemble and wash with hot water. If you use the bottle a lot, it may be necessary to remove and clean the nozzle assembly. Clean the tray as well. The build up tray can be emptied back to the material container and cleaned. If using other material be sure to clean thoroughly so as not to mix materials. There is a complete catalog of completed loads on my website, which is at the bottom of the post. I hope this information is useful. below is a link for a short video.




Don


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## Don F

I had a tough time with this post, most of the attachments didn't work, so I had to go through several times to edit them. I don't know why the two attachments at the bottom of the post are there, and I can't get rid of them because they don't show up on the edit format. Anyway, I think I got it straightened out.
Don


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## gunrunnerjohn

You edit those out if you don't want them in the post using the Manage Attachments paperclip.


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## Don F

This is the link to a short video I made to go with the post Making A Coal Load. I wanted to put it on the same page with the post, but my 48 hour editing window expired.
Don


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## Chip

Seriously good stuff guys! Excellent work! I'm just using emery cloth cut to size and "humped up" in a gondola it looks just like coal and can be removed to simulate "full-empty" operations of any kind and no mess.


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## Don F

Chip said:


> Seriously good stuff guys! Excellent work! I'm just using emery cloth cut to size and "humped up" in a gondola it looks just like coal and can be removed to simulate "full-empty" operations of any kind and no mess.


I suggested that to a fellow who asked if I made coal loads for N gauge. I've got a local HO hobby shop owner who keeps asking me to make HO loads, but they're just too small. 
Don


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## Don F

Here are some photos of iron and copper ore loads. The copper load is the result of a request for copper ore loads from a customer. I used crushed limestone as the base, and used fine mists of flat black and medium flat gray. For the green, I dry brushed Duron Woodland Green urethane modified paint thinned to a stain consistency. 
For the iron ore, I used red concrete sand, aka screenings or moon dust. It is often used as a base for brick pavers. After the load dried, I used Fuchsia Red liquid paint dye from the local paint store, and diluted it with water and sprayed the load using a mister bottle. For Taconite, (modern iron ore), I use old pool sand, as it is smoother, and do the same process as above.
The two hump iron ore load was an extra from a special order several years ago. The customer and I spent over a month back and forth with photos and changes before he approved this version.
Don


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## Don F

I used a different material for this version of a copper ore load. I wanted larger chunks of ore, and a more varied color range, so I used the gray crushed stone that I use for ballast loads, and mixed in some larger material that I normally screen out for ballast. After the load dried, I dry brushed the Woodland Green. There was no need to use the gray and black mist coats due to the wide variation in color as opposed to the white limestone I used for the first version.


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## Don F

*River Leaf Models Switchman Shanty build*

Last year, I did restoration work on a CNJ switchman shanty in Ashley Pa for the Huber Breaker preservation Society. I contacted Andre Garcia of River Leaf Models about making a model, which our society sold as a fundraiser. I recently constructed one of 3 models I purchased, this one being for a diorama I plan to build for the society. I made several modifications to the kit to make it more closely represent the prototype. 
The prototype has an open, (cathedral), ceiling, and the model for ease of construction has a flat ceiling beneath the peaked roof. I eliminated the interior ceiling by tracing the inside walls on the roof panel and then cut the center out, leaving the wall thickness and the eave. 
More to follow in another segment.


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## Don F

*River Leaf Switchman Shanty Build*

To assemble the walls without the ceiling panel, I used it as an alignment piece only. I assembled the walls using the bottom floor panel, (same size as the ceiling panel), which I did glue. Using rubber bands to clamp the wall sections around the base and ceiling. after the assembly was dry, I made two clamping jigs from some corrugated plastic cut to fit the outside profile of the model. These I will use at the top and bottom to hold the other two kits together while the glue dries, instead of the rubber bands.
Don


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## Don F

*River Leaf Models Switchman Shanty Assembly Paint*

After the basic assembly was complete, I was ready for paint. I used interior white primer, with fine mason sand added for texture. I painted the inside and outside, and lightly sanded the paint to remove some of the grit to expose little pock marks, and applied a second coat for depth, again sanding some of the grit. After the paint partially dried, I added a thin coat of Lamp Black and water on the inside and outside walls, and lightly dabbed some of the excess with a paper towel. This adds the weathered look, similar to India Ink that most hobbyists use. Lamp Black is basically chimney soot that is primarily used to dye mortar black. I get it at the local building supply house. For the roof, I applied several coats, dabbing the excess each time. the roof on the prototype is much more pock marked and worn then the walls, and also much darker. 
Don


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## thysell

Don weren't you working on a full scale shanty too? This one looks pretty cool. Will it have a desk on the inside


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## Don F

thysell said:


> Don weren't you working on a full scale shanty too? This one looks pretty cool. Will it have a desk on the inside


Yes, we restored one for the Miners' Heritage Memorial Park in Ashley PA. Andre and I worked together to produce an O scale model. We sold several as a fundraiser. I am making this model for a diorama for our preservation society, and am trying to replicate the prototype as closely as possible. I do have most of the model complete, including a desk, two wood benches, and a shelf. I am waiting for a coal stove and some other small details for the interior before I can install the windows and door. I will be posting more progress photos shortly.
Don


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## Don F

These are some photos of the interior paint. For the underside of the roof, I traced a pencil line where the bare wood will be glued to the wall tops. I kept the paint inside the line to leave a good glue surface














When I glued the roof ring to the wall tops, I needed to use filler to seal the seams where it meets the wall tops. I sanded the filler, and then painted several coats using the primer with the fine mason sand, sanding lightly after each coat.







After I was satisfied with the wall texture, I applied a very light coat of Lamp Black and water to slightly age the paint. I used a paper towel to dab the coating to remove most of it. Since the paint I'm using is porous, there is no need to seal the Lamp Black coat.







Don


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## Don F

Here are some photos of the benches, desk and shelf I made for the model. These are also in the prototype. I made the desk using a small piece of scrap wood that I shaped on the belt sander, and drilled a small ink well hole, and scribed a pencil slot, (barely visible). The benches and shelf are from left over material from the model kit. I also used some of this material to trim the inside of the windows, which does not come with the kit. I'm waiting for the stove, and with all the snow, we haven't had mail delivery since Monday.
Don


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## thysell

Don I remember your pictures from the prototype and you have really nailed it with this model. Love the desk and benches, I immediately saw the prototype in them.


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## Lemonhawk

The real one (nor the model) don't seem big enough for all the furniture and a stove! Once the stove warmed up the concrete, it must have been like a furnace inside. Really like that wall mounted desk!:appl: If you had a 3d printer you could have spent hours trying to generate a model for the printer and probably never get the brackets right!


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## Don F

Lemonhawk, 
Here are some pics with the stove in place. I ordered an S scale stove, and I'm glad I did, because it's perfect for the shanty. Believe it or not, everything does fit nicely in the prototype. These stoves came in a multitude of styles and sizes to fit the needs of a particular room or building. The stove and pipe are only temporarily in place for photo purposes. I'll have some more when all the touch ups are done. I wanted to have it ready for our meeting tomorrow night. 
To make the pipe sections, I used a piece of approximately 1/16" steel rod from a flag we use to mark the sprinkler heads on our fields. I took the aluminum seal top from a can of iced tea, and used a wood spatula to massage the material flat and smooth. Then after determining the correct size, I cut scale two foot sections, and used a small paper clip to crease the foil near the end to produce the ring around the end of the pipe. This is to add stiffness to the pipe. To make the elbows, I cut short pieces, and cut a V into one end, and rolled it around the wire. Each section is attached to the wire with CA. To make the cap, I used a piece of 1/8" rod as the form, as photos of the prototype I've seen show an outer pipe over the stove pipe. This I assume was to cover the opening for the pipe. To make the cap, I traced a circle on the foil, then cut out a small triangle and closed the gap until the edges alingn. This is the same method in the 12" t0 the foot world. I used CA to glue the over lapped seam, then glued the cap to the outer pipe. this I did after these pics were taken, as I wanted to make use of the natural light.
Don


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## Don F

thysell said:


> Don I remember your pictures from the prototype and you have really nailed it with this model. Love the desk and benches, I immediately saw the prototype in them.


Thank you, I'm trying to make the model as close to the shanty as possible. I'm going to try to get a forced perspective shot at the park with the two together. That will have to wait until the snow melts!
Don


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## Lemonhawk

Remember you can focus stack the forced perspective shots so all will be in focus, you just need a camera that can manually focus and fits on a tripod. See Helicon Software, they have a free version. You can achieve an amazing depth of field, you will impress yourself - everyone else will just think it's a normal shot! I stacked 50 images taken at various focal points of a short HO train and it's in focus from an inch to 15 ft where it's outside the window.


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## Don F

Lemonhawk said:


> Remember you can focus stack the forced perspective shots so all will be in focus, you just need a camera that can manually focus and fits on a tripod. See Helicon Software, they have a free version. You can achieve an amazing depth of field, you will impress yourself - everyone else will just think it's a normal shot! I stacked 50 images taken at various focal points of a short HO train and it's in focus from an inch to 15 ft where it's outside the window.


I've done a few shots in the past when I was photographing a 2 bay hopper fro club car project on another forum. I used the Huber Breaker as the back drop, and lined the tracks the cars was on with the tracks in the background, and it came out well. It's just too bad the breaker was in such bad shape. Thanks for the pointers, I'll check it out.
Don


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## Don F

Here is the completed model. I took advantage of the sunshine and snowy backdrop. The door is only propped in the opening until I get the remaining interior adornments.
Don


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## Lemonhawk

You could just about set that anywhere near the tracks and make a story about whe its there! Great looking model!


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## Don F

Lemonhawk said:


> You could just about set that anywhere near the tracks and make a story about why its there! Great looking model!


Thanks Lemonhawk. If there wasn't so much snow and slop on the ground, I'd shoot some photos at the park this afternoon. We have a preservation society meeting tonight, so I'll take it to show the members.
Don


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## Don F

I made an escutcheon plate and door knob from a brass rod. For the knob, I used a file to make the profile. I wanted it smaller, but it separated before I could get it any smaller. The escutcheon is from the same rod; I hammered it into a thin strip, then cut out the size I wanted. I may re do the knob, as it's a little to big. I'll try a brass brad nail. I forgot that I have some in the shop. 















I also made a desk phone from a piece of composite deck material. It's easy to machine, and it has a semi- hard and smooth finish. For the receiver, I used a paper clip. I think it too is a bit large, so I have some finer and softer craft wire that I'll try. For the cord, I'm going to use some very fine craft wire, or possibly a single strand of electrical wire. I was thinking of coiling it around a thin rod, (less then 1/32" dia), but coiled cords came a bit later then the time period I want to model. For the dial, I used a thin plastic lid, and used two tiny washers and drew around the inside with a black ink pen, the used a sharpened paneling nail to pierce the rotary dial holes.








Here is a photo of the completed phone. Someone on another forum wanted a reference for size, so I used the tape measure. I didn't want to waste another post for a few pics, so having time left, I added to this post. Next project is a coal scuttle. I'm using a foil lid from an iced tea container. 
Don


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## Don F

I finished all the items for the inside of the shanty. I made a coal scuttle and shovel/scoop, and a broom and dustpan along with the phone. I'm not going to attempt a coffee pot, I'll pick one up at York. I will have the shanty and items with me whichever day I get there, plans may change again! 
The broom was made with some bristles from a wood scrub brush, red thread and a strand of telephone wire. I used a coffee stir straw to hold the bristles and tooth pic handle together until the urethane dried, then wrapped the thread around the bristles. After the glue holding the thread dried, I wrapped the wire around the shoulder and handle. The larger broom was my first attempt, but I realized it was too big.
The coal scuttle is made from the foil from an iced tea lid, as is the dustpan and coal shovel. 
Don


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## Don F

*Making board lines on a single piece of wood.*

Several years ago, I was asked to come up with some MOW load ideas by a friend. One of the loads included a wood crate, ties and ballast. I wanted the crate to have the appearance of being constructed of individual boards. I devised a simple jig to accomplish this using 2 pieces of 1/2" plastic and some paneling nails. 
I first determined the size of the crate; I was making the loads for a Weaver wood side flatcar/gondola conversion, so i made the crate to fit between the side walls. I wanted it to be slightly higher then the sides for visual purposes. 
I needed a way to replicate the boards without having to use individual pieces, so I used a scrap piece of 1/2" plastic sheathing for a base, (any smooth material will work), and a smaller piece for a guide attached to one edge of the base. I then determined how wide I wanted the boards to be, in this case, approximately 6". I marked the board lines on the base at both ends, and drew lines along the length starting from the guide. 1/8" represents a scale 1/48 6" board. Next, I pre-drilled holes in a V pattern on each of the lines. Using 1" paneling nails, I drove them into the base until the points just barely protruded above the surface. I used white pine for the crate sides, and mitered the corners. I made a gluing jig out of scrap plexiglass to hold the sides together during the gluing. My boxes are hollow, but a solid piece of wood would work too. 
I made a lid for the top, and glued it to the box. I made the lid a little larger, then squared the box and lid on the belt/disc sander. 
It worked out that the lid was just about double the height of the crate, so I didn't have to add more nails to the jig. Now that the crate is assembled and squared, it's time for the fun! Use a scrap piece of material first to make sure the grooves are the correct depth and width. After this has been determined, place the crate or piece of wood against the guide, and simply push it along the guide. The reason for the V pattern is so the work piece gradually encounters the nail points as opposed to all at once. 
I've included some photos of a sample jig that is exaggerated for easier viewing. The desired pattern width will determine how close the nails are, and will dictate how far to space them in the V pattern. The closer the nail points, the longer the V should be. 
The hardest part is getting the points spaced properly and the correct point height; this is trial and error, and each new project may require a different nail spacing. 
I wanted my crates to be banded and reinforced, and unfortunately there's no jig for that, so the cross bucks and banding are individually cut and applied.
Don


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## traction fan

*Some workshop aids*

Here are photos of a few things that help me out. Maybe one will help you too.

First these wood holders keep expensive hobby liquids like cement, and paint from spilling. Per Murphy's law the liquid would probably spill onto something you worked hard on and just finished. 
Also all these products seem to get a lot more expensive, nearly every day.:rippedhand:

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## traction fan

*Carrying/storage case*

I've used these plastic fishing tackle boxes to hold N-scale cars and locomotives, for years. They do a good job of protecting the rolling stock, and are very handy when transporting it to a club. 
HO-scale modelers might check their local Home Depot for straight storage boxes with removable dividers. Some are large enough to hold HO cars.

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## traction fan

*Socket saver*

This one's not train related, but I thought I'd share it anyway. Some socket sets come in metal boxes, with a thin, flimsy, plastic insert. Sooner or later the insert cracks and the sockets go all over the place. Then you have to hunt through the random pile of loose sockets to find the size you need.
I made this wood insert from a piece of 1"x3" lumber cut to fit the box. The bottom edge of the wood is tapered to hold the sockets in order. Some foam insulation tape stuck to the bottom wall of the box, holds them in place. I rough drilled and carved slots for the ratchet handle and extensions. This insert should outlast the original one many times over.

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## traction fan

*Fantastic!*



Don F said:


> I made an escutcheon plate and door knob from a brass rod. For the knob, I used a file to make the profile. I wanted it smaller, but it separated before I could get it any smaller. The escutcheon is from the same rod; I hammered it into a thin strip, then cut out the size I wanted. I may re do the knob, as it's a little to big. I'll try a brass brad nail. I forgot that I have some in the shop.
> View attachment 295274
> 
> 
> View attachment 295282
> 
> I also made a desk phone from a piece of composite deck material. It's easy to machine, and it has a semi- hard and smooth finish. For the receiver, I used a paper clip. I think it too is a bit large, so I have some finer and softer craft wire that I'll try. For the cord, I'm going to use some very fine craft wire, or possibly a single strand of electrical wire. I was thinking of coiling it around a thin rod, (less then 1/32" dia), but coiled cords came a bit later then the time period I want to model. For the dial, I used a thin plastic lid, and used two tiny washers and drew around the inside with a black ink pen, the used a sharpened paneling nail to pierce the rotary dial holes.
> 
> View attachment 295290
> 
> Here is a photo of the completed phone. Someone on another forum wanted a reference for size, so I used the tape measure. I didn't want to waste another post for a few pics, so having time left, I added to this post. Next project is a coal scuttle. I'm using a foil lid from an iced tea container.
> Don
> View attachment 295545
> 
> View attachment 295553
> 
> View attachment 295561


Don F.

Absolutely beautiful work!:appl:

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## ExONRcarman

loco internal wiring, what a miserable time i have finding replacement wire. So after scrating my head and spending countless hours looking for an appropriate speaker type wire small enough, i tripped over something else, litterally. old school house phone wire. very fine, looks good on the inside of the loco, but because its solid core it is still in the test phase for me, and needs to be adressed properly in install. solid core is stiff by comarison, and as we all know trucks dont like stiff. to compensate for the stiffness you must have enough slack under the cab to mitigate the stiffness. i have one old "tester loco" that i like to use when trying new odd stuff like this. on the one truck i hve positioned slack, ran the wire up from truck, towards the front of the loco, then to the center where the motor is. long enough wire to have next to no stifness, and the wire is stiff enough to keep its shape on its own. on the other truck i stole a design from under the hood of your car. a coil. I wrapped the wire around a very small nail, removing the nail after, and stretched the new coil out so there were gaps between the coils. solder on truck then straight to motor and presto. a working loco. so far so good. no issues. so as i said this was done on an old tester, wont be on my track for long so as for longevity, i dont know. but in a pinch it for sure will work if done correctly


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## flyernut

ExONRcarman said:


> loco internal wiring, what a miserable time i have finding replacement wire. So after scrating my head and spending countless hours looking for an appropriate speaker type wire small enough, i tripped over something else, litterally. old school house phone wire. very fine, looks good on the inside of the loco, but because its solid core it is still in the test phase for me, and needs to be adressed properly in install. solid core is stiff by comarison, and as we all know trucks dont like stiff. to compensate for the stiffness you must have enough slack under the cab to mitigate the stiffness. i have one old "tester loco" that i like to use when trying new odd stuff like this. on the one truck i hve positioned slack, ran the wire up from truck, towards the front of the loco, then to the center where the motor is. long enough wire to have next to no stifness, and the wire is stiff enough to keep its shape on its own. on the other truck i stole a design from under the hood of your car. a coil. I wrapped the wire around a very small nail, removing the nail after, and stretched the new coil out so there were gaps between the coils. solder on truck then straight to motor and presto. a working loco. so far so good. no issues. so as i said this was done on an old tester, wont be on my track for long so as for longevity, i dont know. but in a pinch it for sure will work if done correctly


24 gauge super flex stranded wire is great.. Try it, you'll like it..


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## Dennis461

*small gauge flexible wire*

For small gauge flexible wire, I take a set of audio earbuds, cut off both ends and strip the outer jacket off. The two center cores (left and right) are usually a common rubber/plastic covered copper wire. The braided common is sometimes copper coated fine string, and not useful.


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## T-Man

I like the earbud idea!:thumbsup:

When small is a necessity I use 30 coated wire. Basically for winding motors or just jewelry craft. I was the smallest wire in the old Radio shack three pack


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## traction fan

*Simple cheap LED tester*

I use 3-volt, flat disc, watch batteries to test LEDs. The problem was that holding the leads to the battery was sometimes problematic, at best. This wasn't the case when testing a single 3mm or 5mm LED. Then I could simply fit the battery between the leads and squeeze a little. However, surface mount LEDs and circuits containing LEDs (ie. inside a lighted structure) were a very different story.  
So, I made this simple gadget from a clothespin, two brass brads, some bits of wire, and two mini alligator clips. It works quite well. I drilled through the jaws of the clothespin then inserted the brads with their heads meeting inside the clothespin's jaws. I then soldered red(+) and black(-) wires to the brass brads, and cut off the excess length of the brads. I soldered the mini alligator clips to the other end of the red & black wire leads. For good measure, I painted the halves of the clothespin red and black so I could always be sure of polarity when inserting the battery. By the way, don't leave the battery in the clothespin when you're not using it. The leads have a nasty tendency to short to each other and deplete the battery. Also note that I did not include a resistor. With only three volts and limited on time, it's not really necessary to use a current limiting resistor, but you could easily add one if you want to.

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


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## gunrunnerjohn

Why not go with the fancy option for less than $3? I've worn one of these out plugging stuff in, I have a new one coming. It has all current ranges so you can test any type of LED.

Mini Handy 2~150mA LED Tester Test Box for Light-emitting Diode


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## Stumpy

Painting car shells.

The cardboard cores from paper towel rolls come in handy.


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## Don F

Clever!


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## flyernut

When packing S gauge cars for shipping, I use a small piece of the tube to protect the link coupler. I've had several cars come in with damaged/broken couplers when the seller didn't pack them right.


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