# Building the Southeastern & Chesapeake



## Zeke (Feb 22, 2011)

I thought I would share a few pics of my layout progress. I started about a year ago and have been plugging away a little at a time. 

Here are some past pictures that show the "journey" from the beginning.

This is before we had the basement finished and the window installed:









After the basement was finished:













































On the south side I did manage to get these shelves built in:









My latest projects have been working on background buildings. This is the background apartment building from Korber:









This is an MTH public works building that I'm kitbashing into a passenger station:


----------



## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

Looking good please keep the photos coming.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Nice space, looks like it'll be a great layout!


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Nice Zeke. What a difference. :smilie_daumenpos:

Tell me, the window is what? 5 foot down into the ground? What is used for the bottom fill not dirt right? Is there a well cover on the top?
I have never seen a big window like that so far into the dirt. I have the little windows up near the top in my cellar. I put the clear window well covers on the top, during the heavy rains the bottom on the wells used to get saturated with water. During a real steady heavy rain like over 7" it would pool up and seep through the windows frames. The covers stopped that.

Too bad you couldn't make the window wells into a shelf.
Maybe you could.  
Just put outdoor made train related items in it. :thumbsup:

Nice, big, CLEAN room for the train layout. What a difference I should have done that to mine before I started with the layout. :thumbsup:


----------



## Zeke (Feb 22, 2011)

Thanks guys!

Ed - yeah, 5 feet is about right. They filled in the bottom of the well with gravel and there is a cover on top. It's kind of cheap (in my opinion) but we haven't had any water problems.

I'm glad we were able to get this done. It was so dark and dingy before, it wasn't really enjoyable to be down there. Now, it's a pleasant space and I don't mind being down there. There's a tv hanging on the side wall so I can have the game one and kind of follow what's going on while I putter around.

The layout is an around-the-room type and is 12' by 17', although it angles in on the one side. Somewhere I have a rough diagram of the space and I'll post it if I can find it. It's going to have two levels. The top one has 0-72 curves with one 0-54 easement. That's going to be for the passenger trains and the 2 or 3 scale sized trains I own. The bottom I think I will just go with 0-42 since I run mostly traditional-sized stuff. 

I also decided to strive for some realism with this layout. My past layouts were either Plasticville on green grass paper or ceramic buildings on cotton "snow". There's nothing wrong with either of those approaches, I just wanted to try something different this time. I don't know that I'll reach the level of detail that a lot of other guys do, but I'm going to do what I can.

My first big challenge was to figure out how to get to the interior without having a duck under. I was able to use an MTH bridge mounted to a hinged section that just simply flips up. Here are a few pics:




























On the side that raises and lowers I installed a door catch and on the hinged side I mounted a magnetic catch underneath.



















The hinged side of the bridge sits on a block of wood that fits up into the support pier. I then drilled two screws through the base of the pier into the wood. They look bad now, but I will eventually hide them with some paint and landscaping.










I also added this support underneath the railway:









Where the end of the moveable section meets the layout, I made sure to do a miter cut. I also did this with the track before it was mounted:










A snap switch was installed underneath to cut power to the blocks on either side. Please forgive the mismatched screws. They were all I had on hand at the time and I didn't feel like running to the hardware store:









Before the bridge was installed, I weathered with powders and paint. For the piers I used Rustoleum Textured spray paint on the top and bottom and then went over it with black chalk. The middle section was painted with combination of olive green and black. Some light sanding wore away some of the paint and provided a textured look. I then scored the mortar lines to make them lighter so they would show up and threw on some weathering powder.



















I got this completed a several months ago, and so far so good. It swings up and stays in place. When I put it down I just make sure it catches properly. I haven't had any problems with track alignment.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Nice job Zeke, love the weathering too.:smilie_daumenpos:

Screw the screws, you can't really see them anyway.


What is the length of the bridge?
Looks to be over 36"?

Did it come with a light on top?


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Nice solution to the interior access.


----------



## Ranger (Mar 4, 2012)

That is looking nice!!


----------



## cole226 (Feb 8, 2013)

lookin good zeke. kinda crafty there with the walk thru.:appl: keep pics coming.


----------



## GK Trains (Aug 10, 2013)

This is great. What a transformation. Can you post a copy of the overall track plan?


----------



## 05Slowbalt (Dec 19, 2011)

Very nicely done. I love the shelves full of trains! I showed my wife this and before I could say anything she looked at me and said "NO"!


----------



## Zeke (Feb 22, 2011)

Thank you all for the kind words guys! Much appreciated!

Ed - the bridge is 30" and, yes, there is a blinking red light on top, although I don't have it wired yet. 

GK - Sorry, but I don't have a track plan drawn up. However, here is a rough diagram of my space with a few overview shots:









Following the track (all Ross) from the station on the right and down toward the bottom of the picture there are 3 0-72 curves, an 0-54 easement, and then a TR45 leading onto the bridge. I had to shorten the TR45 piece to make everything fit.









Coming off the bridge there are 2 0-72s and then 2 0-128s leading into a short straight section that leads to the west side of the layout. That end has all 0-72s.









I haven't fully planned out the lower level yet, but I do know that this area will eventually have a peninsula that will hold my coal ramp and loader.












> I love the shelves full of trains! I showed my wife this and before I could say anything she looked at me and said "NO"!


BOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!  Any chance she'll change her mind?


----------



## Zeke (Feb 22, 2011)

Got some more done on the station today. The roof and molding sections are now all on and done.



















I decided that waiting passengers should have some cover while waiting out on the platform. I ordered one from Crescent Locomotive Works and began the installation process.










I also ordered a couple of their benches which I think are very nice. The one on the right is how they look initially, and the one on the left has been painted and weathered.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Lookin' good, nice work on the station and benches.


----------



## Zeke (Feb 22, 2011)

Thanks John!


----------



## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

the back drop, is that a sheet on the wall or do you have all them buildings?


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Looks like some of them are real, and some of them are photos.


----------



## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

yes john, i did notice some in the front have more depth.

being i am doing a NYC subway i need some thing like that. i sure anit going to build/buy all the buildings. any way they do not have many tall enough. i did find one.


----------



## Zeke (Feb 22, 2011)

Actually, that's a background from www.realisticbackgrounds.com. I think you can also get them from MB Klein and Scenic Express.


----------



## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

thanks zeke. i'll look in to them.


----------



## Zeke (Feb 22, 2011)

Well, it took forever and a day, but other than a little bit of weathering this is finally done. I had hoped to do a detailed interior, but I don't know how I'd work around all of this mess. Clearly, I need to study up on how to do more efficient wiring.










At any rate, I think it looks pretty good all lit up. Here's some random evening shots.





































I think my next steps are build another flat that will go behind the platform on the left and a diesel fueling station to the right.


----------



## cole226 (Feb 8, 2013)

i have to admit, it looks like something zeke built and randy wired:laugh:

seriously, looks like u could bunch them up and pull out of way to do interior. 

station scene looks great.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Station looks great Zeke, but we're going to have to take you to the woodshed with the wiring.


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Zeke

One section under my table looks like that wiring extravaganza of yours.
And it's the lighting wires also. Until I got too impatient, I had been
using electricians tape to hold twisted pairs to interior walls. That does
neaten them up somewhat without damage to the walls.

But, when it comes to the outside oif your station...that is fine work...
really nice.

Don


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'd let Zeke build for me anytime, I'd just wire it myself.  The station does look great!


----------



## Zeke (Feb 22, 2011)

Thanks for the kind words, guys. I honestly appreciate it.



> I'd let Zeke build for me anytime, I'd just wire it myself.


That would definitely be the wise move.  


So, with the wiring, let's see if I can get educated a bit. There are 18 lights total:

6 micro-chip LEDs from Evan Designs
12 Walthers HO scale lights

That's 36 wires total. The LEDs use (I think) 28 gauge wire and the HO lights use something a little bit bigger. 

Keeping in mind that I'm pretty much a dunce when it comes to electricity, what tools/tips/techniques should I have used that would have made this better? Are there special clips or connectors that are made for small wire like that?


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I use hot glue or CA glue to stick the wires inside the buildings. The big thing is "think neat". One technique for these would have been to run all the wires straight down to the base and then connect them all to a power bus that runs along the bottom. Also, sticking them to the walls for the run keeps things neat.

It's not difficult, just think of them as more of the model, you want them to be as neat as the outside, which you obviously took your time on. I know you have the skills, that's obvious from your work.


----------



## cole226 (Feb 8, 2013)

like john says "think neat"
plan your route where you need power, feed your leads to it in an unobtrusive direction.
there are several types clamps and tie downs available. shack, lowes., home depot, etc.

make your own with strip of soft plastic, soda bottle, detergent bottle, etc. just cut thin strip, fold it over on itself, put screw in 2 ends, instant cable clamp.:thumbsup:

i can tell you have "neat" written all over you


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

The building with the lights look "neat" Zeke. :thumbsup:


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The building looks great Ed, that's why I know Zeke has it in him to make the wiring neat.


----------



## Zeke (Feb 22, 2011)

John - thank you for the extremely kind words. I'll keep that all of that in mind on the next go around. I don't know why I didn't think to put a power bus along the bottom. I guess I got a little impatient toward the end and was in "just get it done" mode. 


Cole - 


> i can tell you have "neat" written all over you


One look at my workspace would quickly dispel you of that notion. 
Thank you for the ideas about homemade clips using strips of soda bottles, etc. I will probably try that.

big ed - Thanks!


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'm very familiar with the _just get it done_ mode.  I'm just not about to post pictures of those here!


----------



## Zeke (Feb 22, 2011)

Happy Thanksgiving to all! 

I'm taking advantage of the down time to get caught up on posting. Now that the station is done, I've moved on to the next background building, Heather K footwear. It's named after my wife since she loves shoes so much. It's two Ameritowne wall glued together and then covered with brick paper. I am working on two little lights that will shine down on the sign.










It's going to go between the station and the Korber apartment building. Eventually, I'll get a printed sky and city scene behind it.


----------



## hoscale37 (Nov 20, 2011)

Nice pictures and layout.  

As an additional comment, having worked in the AV business for almost 20 years, your wiring scheme on the back of the station would have had you fired if you worked for me. 

As a suggestion, I would  * LABEL *, * LABEL *, * LABEL *   ALL  of your wiring and tidy it up by running the wiring along the top, bottom, or sides. Label each wire to each light, and where it runs to. You can buy an inexpensive label maker from Walmart for $20.00 that will print a label that you can attach to the wiring for easy identification later on. 

Why label? If you have a light that goes out, or for some reason a series of lights don't light up, you REALLY want to make it easier on yourself to find out where the wires are going to and not have to be digging around for 2 hours trying to find out which wire goes where. Trust me, this will save you LOADS of time in the future to avoid any frustration.


----------



## golfermd (Apr 19, 2013)

hoscale37 said:


> As a suggestion, I would  * LABEL *, * LABEL *, * LABEL *   ALL  of your wiring and tidy it up by running the wiring along the top, bottom, or sides. Label each wire to each light, and where it runs to. You can buy an inexpensive label maker from Walmart for $20.00 that will print a label that you can attach to the wiring for easy identification later on.
> 
> Why label? If you have a light that goes out, or for some reason a series of lights don't light up, you REALLY want to make it easier on yourself to find out where the wires are going to and not have to be digging around for 2 hours trying to find out which wire goes where. Trust me, this will save you LOADS of time in the future to avoid any frustration.


'Nuf said! As another suggestion, do the same thing with your computer cables.


----------



## Zeke (Feb 22, 2011)

Test post to see if I remember how to post pics.


----------



## Steamfan77 (Jan 28, 2011)

Great work Sean. Keep the pics coming.

Andy


----------



## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

How about Tates Compass company, Slogan He who has a Tates is lost! Couldn't resist


----------



## sliderule01 (Dec 3, 2016)

hoscale37 said:


> Nice pictures and layout.
> 
> As an additional comment, having worked in the AV business for almost 20 years, your wiring scheme on the back of the station would have had you fired if you worked for me.
> 
> ...


Absolutely label. Nothing like a problem that you cant figure out the wiring - and label each end. Numbers work the best as easy. Also create a reference document with the wiring - a schemtatic if you will - showing how everything is connected. Makes troubleshooting so much easier. I like putting the schematic together first for wiring and block diagrams.


----------

