# Proto 2000 GP30 Sound Install with pics and wanting feedback :-)



## 3.8TransAM (Jan 13, 2016)

Anyone have tips/tricks/hints/pictures to share?

Rebuilt the axles/trucks and got them running. Picked up a SFX006 Soundbug for it(plug in for the DH165L0 DCC board) for sound for one and space is at a premium.

Was thinking about cutting the weight down partially in the rear, maybe slightly below factory rear bulb level and mount it there.

Any opinions ?


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

I've had a look at the P2000 GP chassis and its full of weight! Although it looks like there may be room at the end for a small speaker. Apart from that the only alternative is to get carving! The only advice I can offer is don't be afraid to use one the small' Sugar cube' speakers, they perform as well as some much larger ones.


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## 3.8TransAM (Jan 13, 2016)

Cycleops said:


> I've had a look at the P2000 GP chassis and its full of weight! Although it looks like there may be room at the end for a small speaker. Apart from that the only alternative is to get carving! The only advice I can offer is don't be afraid to use one the small' Sugar cube' speakers, they perform as well as some much larger ones.


Get carving, that is what I was afraid of :laugh:

No biggie, prolly work on it some Monday. Going to try and measure it out t'row or maybe late tonight, but Mon. for sure since I'm off work. Trying to avoid the chop weight and hold it together with electrical tape look 

Using what I have on hand for the project, the 5 yr old and I are making projects of everything we need to update/repair.


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

I had a GP7 where it was DCC ready but not for sound. I was able to fit a tiny undersized wimpy speaker with no baffle in there without cutting. Unfortunately the sound is less than desirable. Going with a sugar cube will be a vast improvement but will require the Dremel. I have the same decoder with a better speaker and a baffle in a different unit and it is night and day difference. Do the right thing and cut the weight. You will be happy you did.


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## 3.8TransAM (Jan 13, 2016)

Thanks guys.

Going to go with my original thought about cutting the weight down in the rear since it looks like very close to being able to fit the sfx006 speaker in that spot with minimal hacking.

We shall find out.


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

If at all possible keep the weight over the axles and cut from elsewhere. The most effective place to have the weight is over the drive wheels. This said there is often no good choice as to where to cut.


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## 3.8TransAM (Jan 13, 2016)

Going to poke around in a few hours after I snow blow.

I think the SFX006 speaker needs the 4 mounts cut away from atop the rear weight/truck area.

Might need a slight more cut after that, but it looks like I can gain enough depth and keep the factory lighting all at the same time.

I'll take some pics if I work on it today.


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

3.8TransAM said:


> Going to poke around in a few hours after I snow blow.
> 
> I think the SFX006 speaker needs the 4 mounts cut away from atop the rear weight/truck area.
> 
> ...


I could not keep the factory lighting in my GP18. This was because the bulbs were 1.5 volts. It was easier to swap them out to LEDs that matched the voltage on the decoder since I was doing all the work anyways. When swapping to LEDs I have to remove all of the factory resistors etc.

The GP 7 was a different story as it had LEDs when I got it.


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## 3.8TransAM (Jan 13, 2016)

Well, this is what I came up with after finding too many other versions that looked like hack jobs to me.

First real time doing this, so not sure if I did it "right" or not, but came out decently well. I wish I had a way to mill it down rather than using a hacksaw for the up and down cuts and taking out the remaining metal with a die grinder. Made a groove using a finer bit under the speaker to keep the factory bulb in place and angle it back up t the rear light piping in the hood. Also still debating good loaction for the capacitor, might leave it as is since it is not visible in the cab, but would like to find a nice hiding spot for it.

Wanted to keep factory lights and light piping to minimize issues and maybe make some other folks give it a shot.

It is a DH165L0 Digitrax decoder and Soundbug SFX006 install.


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## 3.8TransAM (Jan 13, 2016)

Hmmmmmm.

No DCC testing capability here, just one wimpy DC controller.

I have no headlights on either loco(both gp30's, one with sound)

Decoder instructions state that it is set up for factory 1.5v bulbs (loco instructions state to convert to 12v bulbs for DCC operation) so that should not be an issue.

I did test the other engine this past Fri. at the club, but I do not know if I tried the headlights or not.

Anyone verify what I am seeing as normal?

The one thing I have figured out in a short time is that DCC stuff responds very different on actual DCC control versus straight DC.

Thanks


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Neat installation. How does it sound as compared to a Tsunami?


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## 3.8TransAM (Jan 13, 2016)

Cycleops said:


> Neat installation. How does it sound as compared to a Tsunami?


I can't tell you a whole lot.

It sounds ok, but being DC only at the house(crappy old controller and about 5 pieces of straight), it's not like I can really check it out until I get to the club.

Thinking something is wrong since I lose headlights with the decoder installed. Going to double check the 8 pin connector wiring here in a bit and go from there. 

Can anyone here verify if the headlights are factory programmed on the DH165lo where they do not work on DC or not?


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## 3.8TransAM (Jan 13, 2016)

OK first up, think one of my decoders is bad.

Both are Proto DCC ready GP30 with dh165lo and one has sfx006(Soundbug) as well.

Have headlights on unit with just the dh165lo, but no headlights with the unit with dh165lo and sfx006 installed.

Verified wiring on DCC socket and checked for shorts and found nothing.
Nothing was worked on in the "on" position, nothing was shorted and when disassembled no break thru's from any pins to metal surfaces.

Removed decoders on both and tested both on the factory light card. Lights good on both.

Swapped decoders on engine and got my headlights back on the one equipped with the Soundbug. Tested some more and all was good, installed the Soundbug to the "good" decoder and now all is well. Verified bad decoder with the other engine as well and no headlights there when installed.


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