# Second terminal rerailer equals more power?



## Jhnrudd (Mar 26, 2015)

Hello all.... I'm new to the forum and new to model trains. My uncle and I have an nscsle platform with one train running right now. We have the 1300 railpower power pack, but need to turn up the speed to about 85 for the train to go around. We bought a second retailer but it doesn't seem to help with the speed. Any advice. Thanks


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## powersteamguy1790 (Mar 26, 2012)

Jhnrudd said:


> Hello all.... I'm new to the forum and new to model trains. My uncle and I have an nscsle platform with one train running right now. We have the 1300 railpower power pack, but need to turn up the speed to about 85 for the train to go around. We bought a second retailer but it doesn't seem to help with the speed. Any advice. Thanks



You have to add several pairs of feeders to different parts of your track plan. The extra feeders will provide a constant voltage to all parts of your layout.


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## Jhnrudd (Mar 26, 2015)

So there is no need to have a second rerailer then? I hooked up a second one to the power pack, but the only use I see is to keep the train on the track after curves. Why does it come with a wire thn? Sorry for the silly questions.... Trying to learn the hobby


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## MRLdave (Nov 1, 2011)

The voltage will fall off for every few feet of track..........if you are running a large loop of track, you might notice the loco slowing down when it gets to the side of the loop farthest away from your terminal and then speeding up again as it gets closer to the terminal. But adding more terminals will not boost your power overall, it will only stop you from losing power.

As far as your problem, you didn't mention what your loco was, so it's hard to give you a detailed answer, but a lot of locos require a lot of voltage to get moving, especially if it's an older loco. Also, a lot of newer Dual-mode DCC locos require a lot of voltage when running on DC. A little more info might get you a better answer , but if the loco runs OK otherwise (doesn't get hot, make a lot of noise,ect) it may just be "normal" for that loco to need a lot of voltage.


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## Jhnrudd (Mar 26, 2015)

The loco is a f7-A. It is the super chief set by bachmann. The previous reader was correct, the train does slow down when furthest away from the terminal. I thought adding a second terminal on the other side of the track would help, but I don't see much of a difference. I'm asking this because my uncle wants to hook up lights to the power pack and with the train at 85 speed, I'm not sure the the power supply would be enough to supply power to the whole layout.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

How big is your layout? Sounds like you may need to upgrade your power pack.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

One factor missing is voltage readings.

If you have a volt/ohmeter set it to DC volts
and give us power pack track terminal readings with the track disconnected.
Use the speed control. Give us the voltage range and highest voltage.

Then connect the track. Set the power pack at a mid point and don't 
move it. Then take readings at each point where wire connects to track,
and half way between those points.

That will give us a better understanding of your track conditions.

By the way, did you check the condition of the loco wheels
for grime?

Don


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## Jhnrudd (Mar 26, 2015)

I have about 30 pieces of 5in track in a long oblong circle going around the perimeter of the layout, no switches or anything yet. So I guess I have 150in of track (about 12.5ft).


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## Jhnrudd (Mar 26, 2015)

Did check the loco wheels, they are free of grime and debris and the engine does not get hot or even warm


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## Jhnrudd (Mar 26, 2015)

But even when I have just the basic 24in circle of curve track, the power has to be set at 85 out of a 100 to move the loco


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## Shifty1 (Apr 2, 2015)

Yes, Dave is correct, jhn. Voltage drop is an issue with larger sets. Keep in mind that your track connectors will create a voltage drop, as will track length. If its a temporary setup, it's something you may have to live with. For lighting/accessories, I'd get a seperate transformer for those.


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## Jhnrudd (Mar 26, 2015)

It is just a temporary setup (only about two weeks in December), the length of the track isn't an issue. Last week I tried with just curve track making a circle and needed to put the speed up to 85 to get the loco moving.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

With a simpl circle of N scale track it does seem wrong to
have to turn up the 'speed' to 85 to get a loco to move.

You say the loco wheels are clean and it does not heat,
which would indicate that it
is running smoothly and not binding.

That then leaves the power pack as a possible problem. To find
out we need voltage readings. The loco should move when
the voltage is around 5 volts or less...it should be speeding
too fast for curves when over 10 volts or so. What are your
voltage readings?

Don


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## Jhnrudd (Mar 26, 2015)

First off.... Thanks to everyone with the quick replies

How do I measure the volt readings? 

The wheels and track are free of debris and the engine does not overheat.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

To read the voltages:

Use a volt/ohmeter.

If you don't have one they sell for around 4.95 at 
Harbor Freight, and very often they are free.
It will have very easy to understand instructions.

You set the dial for DC voltage. 

The meter will have a red and a black probe. The red goes
to the Positive and the black to negative of whatever
you are testing. The color doesn't matter when testing AC.

It will likely have a digital readout.

For this test. Disconnect the track from the power
Pack. Put the probes on the power pack 'track'
terminals with power on. Operate the speed
control. You should see a readout of from 0 to possibly
18 volts. If there is a - before the voltage reading, use
the reverse switch and you'll get the correct reading.

Note the voltage you get.

Reconnect the track wires.

Put one probe on the outside rail and the other on
the inside rail where the wires from the power pack
connect. Operate the speed control and reverse as
before. Note the voltage readings.

Then go to the opposite side of the oval. Repeat as
above and note the voltage readings. 

If you are not getting a high voltage of AT LEAST 12 volts or so
when you read only the power pack then it is likely
failing. There are so many surplus from those who have gone
to DCC you should find a replacement for 5 to 10 $.

If you do get the anticipated high reading at the power pack,
but not at the track terminal, you have bad electrical connections.

If that is good, but the reading from the opposite side of the
track is lower, the track joints have poor conductivity.

Don


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