# Atlas true track code 65



## Dave NYC 1962 (Oct 17, 2020)

I’m disappointed with my code 55 track laying abilities, especially after trying to ballast.

Are people using Atlas code 65 true track? Is Atlas going to keep supporting it? I like the looks better than Kato (except the color). I know I could work to get better, but it is also hard to fix code 55 after it is laid to try again. I really hate stalls and derailments.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

You want my advice? Hone your track laying skills. It's hard (though not impossible) to fix anything after you've fastened it down. That's why most of it fasten it down temporarily (pins or hot melt glue in strategic locations) until we've tested it. I can't begin to count the number of times I've had to fix badly laid track. No one likes stalls and derailments, but they're not inevitable. Also, make sure your issues aren't due to errant particles of ballast or adhesive. 

Ballasting, especially, should not be done until you're sure everything works properly. Taking the time to do everything right is, like it or not, an essential part of this hobby. There are also fixtures and curve templates you can buy to assist you (a steel yardstick works wonders).

If you intend to advance to more complex layouts which don't easily conform to the more rigid geometry of the sectional track, you'll be money ahead working to improve your track laying skills. What adhesive did you use? Latex caulk is great, in that it allows you lots of working time to make sure things are perfectly in alignment before weighting or clamping and letting it set.

Just remember, tracklaying is a skill to be learned like any other. You don't expect a beginning golfer to hit dead straight 250 yard drives the first time out, and laying track is no different. It takes patience and practice to get it right. True Track and Unitrack seem like an easy answer, but my personal opinion is that it's a bad tradeoff.


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## Dave NYC 1962 (Oct 17, 2020)

Sounds like good advice, certainly cheaper! I just use Elmers to glue the track to cork roadbed. I think unevenness in my roadbed may be causing problems.
I guess I should stop being frustrated and be more patient.


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

Trains won't run GOOD on BAD track. Rule number one.
This probably is more important in N than larger gauges.

If you used white glue a little water will soften the glue and you
can pull up the bad track and cork roadbed.
It will soften the ballast as well but you
will need to really clean up the track good before reusing.

Good luck with it and remember rule one.

Magic


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

The other problem you might be having, now that I see you used Elmer's glue, is that cork can be affected by too much water and swell, potentially displacing your track. Try caulk next time. Lay a bead in the centerline and spread it out into a thin layer. I use those fake credit cards you get in the mail as a spreader.


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## laposat (Feb 12, 2021)

Sorry, please see next reply.


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## laposat (Feb 12, 2021)

Dave, I am using Code 65 on 95% of my layout, and haven't had any issues so far. Atlas is still supporting it and actually came out with new pieces. I am in the process of wiring and then will attach it with Atlas spikes. There are holes underneath the track that just need to be drilled thru then the spikes hold it down. Shots of my layout and track holes.


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