# HELP - Couplers not compatiable and bottoming out on Code 55 Track



## lmdave (Apr 20, 2012)

I'm new to N Scale, I purchased my first engine and one box car and everything has been fine. I decided to go on EBAY to start gather my stock of cars. I guess I learned a bad lesson of non compatible N Scale cars. The green car is from a lot of 11 cars I just purchased on EBAY all with the same coupler.










I need all my cars to have couplers like on the right, and the green car also bottoms out on the track, it needs lower profile wheels for code 55.

*How do I shop in the future to make sure I have the low profile wheels for code 55 and the type of coupler on the right?*

I have a second lot coming in from EBAY and not sure what to expect either now.


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## Swhite503 (May 14, 2012)

Imdave, I'm having the same problem with my e-bay bought engine bottoming out on the track. And my couplers looks like yours on the left. I will be going to Kadee couplers on all my cars eventually. I have no idea how to determine on e-bay, unless it's stated in the description or pictures of what your getting. I'm learning that e-bay is just a hit and miss. Wish I could help you, but I'm new to N scale myself. Just wanted to let you know that your're not alone with this problem. Good luck.

Steve


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## Brakeman Jake (Mar 8, 2009)

The coupler on the left is a "Rapido" type coupler wich was the standard coupler for N scale until a few years ago when Kaydee (now Micro-trains in n scale) came up with much better operating and looking couplers.So the car on the left is an older product,simply put.

Some newer production cars now come with M/T's (the now on standard) wich are the best but many,like the one on the right,come with pale copies of M/T's (Accumate for Atlas,Kato has it's own and a few other brands) that do somewhat couple with M/T's with occasional issues too.

You'll likely have to retrofit most of the cars you'll buy,like we do,to M/T's or have a few conversion cars in your fleet with "Rapido" at one end and "M/T's at the other.Other than Micro-Trains cars wich come with them (at a higher price),you'll have this problem time and time again.

Ebay has nothing to do with this though.Just ask the seller wich couplers are on when the picture doesn't show and adjust your bidding amount accordingly.


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## lmdave (Apr 20, 2012)

What about the low profile wheels to fit code 55 track? OK, I jsut answered my own question through a search. The axles/wheels can be changed, and the suggested ones are these Atlas 22134:

http://store.aaaplustrains4u.com/150-22134.html

I'm sure there are others, but, I'll try these.


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## Brakeman Jake (Mar 8, 2009)

If you are to change both wheels and couplers,you might as well consider replacing the whole truck.Micro-Trains make replacement trucks for most if not all car models,fully assembled wheels and couplers,for probably not more than replacing these items separately.Check Micro-Trains on the net,or Walthers.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

If you're replacing the whole truck, maybe you should just replace the whole car! I'm guessing from the prices I see, you could do that as cheaply as the pair of trucks.


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## lmdave (Apr 20, 2012)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> If you're replacing the whole truck, maybe you should just replace the whole car! I'm guessing from the prices I see, you could do that as cheaply as the pair of trucks.


I agree, with purchasing the cars through EBAY, I'm getting them at the average price of $4-5 each.

However, I did order a package of just wheels (that I posted above), and I will see how easy it is to just replace them. I was playing around with popping the wheels out of one of the trucks last night and did end up cracking one of the truck by trying to pry the wheel point out.

If I just change one coupler on one side of one of the cars, I will use this set of 11 cars as a group then.

I did realize I could get the old coupler and new coupler to semi grab enough to pull the cars, but my engine started slipping on the incline. I think it was due to some of the cars bottoming out on the track and it creating that much more friction to pull. So, hopefully these lower profile wheels will do the trick.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

More weight in the locomotive.


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## Swhite503 (May 14, 2012)

My problem with the wheels bottoming
out is on a Life Like GP-40 989 diesel 
engine. The geared side especially. How 
difficult would changing these out be. I'm
running on code 80 track. 

Steve


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## Brakeman Jake (Mar 8, 2009)

Normally,anything goes on C80 track,even the older "pizza cutter" wheels so your problem is likely something else.Either you don't have real C80 track or maybe your wheelsets are out of gauge or else.I suggest you take a very close look before attempting replacing your loco wheels,much easier replacing the loco.


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## Swhite503 (May 14, 2012)

You may be right about the track. Just started building 
my set. Got just enough track right now to run on. It says
onthe back Atlas. N guage, 2500. Loco was bought used
It runs good, it just wants to run on the crossties and not the 
rails. I've got some peco flex 80 coming. I'll see how it runs
on that before I do anything. Thanks, Jake.


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## Carl (Feb 19, 2012)

Need to have like couplers.


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## Brakeman Jake (Mar 8, 2009)

If you wish to be able to run just anything without worrying about wheel flanges,code 80 is the way to go and Peco's C80 is bullet proof if well installed and their turnouts are the best I know of.More expensive than Atlas's but well worthed the difference...

About the coupler problem...replacing truck mounted couplers in N scale is no easy job.Unless you have a vey good eyesight and no shaky hands,you'll find that installing the darn little centering spring without having it fly off in the air is a daunting task.I'm 61 and for me,replacing the whole truck is a worthy solution...takes care of both the flange and coupler problem.


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## Swhite503 (May 14, 2012)

Carl, it doesn't have anything to do with couplers, this is when I run the loco without any cars. I've even held a piece of track in my hand and placed the loco on it and moved it back and forth and the flange hit the ties, but I can't tell if the wheel is worn down and letting the flangedo this or if the rail is not the code I think it is.

And Jake, hey, I'm 61 also. I've changed out couplers on my HO but that was 6 years ago. Haven't tried changing N couplers yet. And no, my eyesight isn't what it used to be, and my hands aren't as steady. Bring on the cheater eyeglass and magnifying glass.
You may be right, just change it all out and cure all the problems. I'll know when I get my flex track in a couple of days. Damn, I hate snail mail. lol

Steve


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## Carl (Feb 19, 2012)

If the flange bottoms out on the track, I would think the problem is with the loco. Pull the top off and see if the wheels are loose or if something has broken loose.


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