# How to Repair/Reattach Sides of a Broken Tender Truck



## AmFlyerMike

I recently received a non-functional 303 with the encouragement to “see what I can do with it.” Thus far I’ve enjoyed my first engine repair (mostly cleaning, a little soldering of broken wires). However, I’m quickly becoming frustrated with how to reattach the side of the broken lead truck on the tender. The die-cast side has come off and no matter how I fiddle with it, it seems that the truck side is not positioned properly to keep the wheels in place and they fall out (assisted by the action of the copper “springs”). I read the “clinic” on Portlines, but the process has not been quite so simple – things not bending, bad angles allowing for flying wheel sets, etc. It is like I need 3 sets of hands to keep everything in place! I’d rather not have to buy a new truck because that would mean needing to re-solder the whole thing (and I’m not very good at that yet).

Do any of you have a trick that works for this?


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Hmmmm, haven't come across this dilemma yet. But I know I have similar situations with some knuckle coupler rolling stock that also needs the truck sides reattached. So whatever comes out of this posting will help more than just one of us.

Usually when I'm backed up against the proverbial brick wall, I contact the "grandfather" of American Flyer, our good friend Tom Barker. However, I don't feel pressed up against that wall just yet. I'll see if I can find some other info to post here in the meantime and I'll leave Tom as our last resort.


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## llskis

AmFlyerMike said:


> I recently received a non-functional 303 with the encouragement to “see what I can do with it.” Thus far I’ve enjoyed my first engine repair (mostly cleaning, a little soldering of broken wires). However, I’m quickly becoming frustrated with how to reattach the side of the broken lead truck on the tender. The die-cast side has come off and no matter how I fiddle with it, it seems that the truck side is not positioned properly to keep the wheels in place and they fall out (assisted by the action of the copper “springs”). I read the “clinic” on Portlines, but the process has not been quite so simple – things not bending, bad angles allowing for flying wheel sets, etc. It is like I need 3 sets of hands to keep everything in place! I’d rather not have to buy a new truck because that would mean needing to re-solder the whole thing (and I’m not very good at that yet).
> 
> Do any of you have a trick that works for this?


AmFlyerMike: I went to several clinics at "S" fest and this was discussed at one of them.
IIRC I believe you have a "throw away item" there. I do not believe there is an effective way of fixing your problem. You will have to bite the bullet and buy/install a new truck.
Sorry. Larryhwell:


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## Big Ed

Send it to our T-man, (aka the Epoxy man).

I will bet he could fix it up. :smilie_daumenpos:


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## flyernut

big ed said:


> Send it to our T-man, (aka the Epoxy man).
> 
> I will bet he could fix it up. :smilie_daumenpos:


That's the answer!! I use JB Weld to fix them. There is another way to make a "factory" appearing fix. I've done it in the past. The side plates are staked into position in the sheet metal truck assembly. What I do/did, is assemble the wheelset into the trucks, and when I have it all together, I squeeze the sheet metal top and the truck side bottom, forcing the sheet metal into the original staked position. If all else fails, use the JB Weld trick,( it works great), holding it all together with a small needle nose vise-grip.. Or send it to me and I'll do it. I forgot to add, you must squeeze the sheet metal tab or tongue together a little so it will fit into the original staked position. Then when you squeeze it all together, it will fit into the correct spot. CONFUSED YET????


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## AmFlyerMike

flyernut said:


> CONFUSED YET????


Yes! 

Actually, I think I get the overall procedure you describe. Now execution...THAT is another matter! The real challenge is "assembling the wheelsets into the trucks" they just keep falling/springing out and I can't seem to position the truck side in the right place to keep them secure. I did try to use superglue (it looks like someone else had used a glue-like substance at some point in the past as well) and I think it would have worked to bond the side to the sheet metal tab. But I just couldn't get the truck side in the right position while holding the wheels.:dunno:


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## flyernut

AmFlyerMike said:


> Yes!
> 
> Actually, I think I get the overall procedure you describe. Now execution...THAT is another matter! The real challenge is "assembling the wheelsets into the trucks" they just keep falling/springing out and I can't seem to position the truck side in the right place to keep them secure. I did try to use superglue (it looks like someone else had used a glue-like substance at some point in the past as well) and I think it would have worked to bond the side to the sheet metal tab. But I just couldn't get the truck side in the right position while holding the wheels.:dunno:


Use rubber bands or tape to hold things together. If you use JB Weld, make sure you weigh down the truck assembly with something to keep everything in it's proper place. The JB Weld will take 24 hours to cure, so you have plenty of adjustment time. Super glue is terrible!! You can then paint the JB Weld with some flat enamel and you'll never see the repair.Have the wife give you that extra hand you're going to need,lol.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

I'm going to suggest something only because it just hit me. Please don't take this the wrong way because I'm not trying to insult anyone's intelligence. But are you sure you have the correct axles? I know that between the knuckle coupler trucks and the link coupler trucks, one of them is shorter by a smidge. Just want to be sure you have the correct parts. And I know that has nothing to do with keeping the side piece on the truck body -- but you mentioned more than once about the axle falling out.


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## flyernut

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> I'm going to suggest something only because it just hit me. Please don't take this the wrong way because I'm not trying to insult anyone's intelligence. But are you sure you have the correct axles? I know that between the knuckle coupler trucks and the link coupler trucks, one of them is shorter by a smidge. Just want to be sure you have the correct parts. And I know that has nothing to do with keeping the side piece on the truck body -- but you mentioned more than once about the axle falling out.


Great advice buddy, as I don't think people realize there is a size difference.This is a forum where we can all learn something everyday, and I believe if you put the advice in a correct way, no one should be offended. You offered a solid suggestion, which in fact, escaped me... Thanks for advice.


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## AmFlyerMike

Don -- thanks much for your thought on that. I didn't know there was a difference, and I'll double check it tonight by comparing with my link 302. I "assume" that it is the set of wheels that came with the 303; but since it appears that there have been previous repairs, perhaps not. Regardless, I think I am going have to join the world of JB Weld as well.

Like I said at the start, this is really my first true repair project. And as Flyernut rightly stated, there is plenty to learn! Thanks all!


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## mike costello

I've had success repairing these side frames by slightly bowing the mount, installing the side frame, then pressing the whole mount flat with the side frame in position. I then apply a bead of super glue on the inside which when dry is almost invisible. I did this on the tender of a 293 loco and its still holding up fine. Mike,


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## flyernut

mike costello said:


> I've had success repairing these side frames by slightly bowing the mount, installing the side frame, then pressing the whole mount flat with the side frame in position. I then apply a bead of super glue on the inside which when dry is almost invisible. I did this on the tender of a 293 loco and its still holding up fine. Mike,


That's what I was trying to say.. You said it better.. Thanks..


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## daveh219

Mike...I too attempted the Portline clinic and got the side truck to stay. Then I "gooped" it up with JB Weld...waited the 24 hrs. and it came out great. I think the combination of ideas here is the way to go. Post f/u pics

Dave


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## AmFlyerMike

Progress is slow. I joined the world of JB Weld and thought I had everything well in hand - the wheel sets were securely in the trucks. Unfortunately, when I tested the engine... SPARKS! And lots of them coming from that front truck. Turns out the leading wheel set had a bent axle. I've straightened that now and hope that it will resolve the issue. Only hope at this point, because when I tried to reinstall the wheels, I broke the side off again.

Hopefully another 24 hours will not result in the same outcome! :thumbsdown:

The track is clean and I've cleaned the wheels. Is there anything else I should consider regarding the excess sparking before I continue with the reinstall?


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## Nuttin But Flyer

In all honesty I'm lost as to why it sparked in the first place. I guess you have no idea where it was shorting out? Is there a fiber insulator (large diameter washer-shape) securely in place under the front truck -- between the top of the truck and the bottom of the tender chassis? There should also be a insulator bushing going through the front truck hole in the tender chassis to insulate the rivet from shorting out on the metal tender chassis. Not sure if anyone showed this service manual online to you or if you found them on your own, below is a link to an exploded drawing of the 303 showing all parts....you may wish to save the home page of this manual as a favorite for future reference.


http://myflyertrains.org/gallery/album209/303_2

The next page after the drawing above contains the part number list for the 303. Hope this helps.


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## AmFlyerMike

She runs! 

Thanks for the direction to JB Weld -- it was a breeze to use and I'm certain that if I had not been putting undue pressure on the newly repaired side it would not have broken off. As it is, the wheel sets are positioned nicely and roll smoothly. And unless you look under the truck, it is almost unnoticeable from the side. It really looks good.

Regarding the sparking, initially I still I think that the wheels were rubbing against something or were not properly in place. However to be sure, I also went back and cleaned the track again -- it seems that recent running left it in greater need than I thought. Also did the wheels again. With the side installed, wheels secure and everything clean, sparking reduced significantly, though not entirely.

One thing I noticed on the wheels -- they are not as smooth as some of my other engines. Even a little rough to the touch, though not so much that it would cause the wheels not to roll. But would that roughness create enough of a break in the connection that it would cause sparking? And if so, is there an appropriate means to smooth out those metal wheels?

Don -- The insulators are in place. I "assume" they are doing their job since the engine does run. I used that website when I was struggling to figure out where the stray wire needed to go (from bushing to front truck of tender). It is bookmarked for future use!

Thanks to everyone here! :smilie_daumenpos: My first repair job is running - well enough at least to take it off the workbench. Good thing too -- there's a Silver Flash in desperate need of help...


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## Big Ed

The T man (aka The epoxy man) would be proud of you. 
Welcome to the world of epoxy. :smilie_daumenpos:

Did you try a little paint on it?
Maybe weather it up with a little liquid rust?

I can't see it in your latest picture? Looks good.


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## Big Ed

There is a reason I can't see it huh?
You took the picture of the other side, take a picture of the repaired side now.


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## AmFlyerMike

Ed, wasn't trying to pull a fast one -- just happened to have her running that direction...

But here's a pic of the truck with the "weld." Not perfect perhaps, but I'm happy.


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## daveh219

Mike...looks great. I agree with Big Ed...a little "weathering" would cover any cosmetic "injury".


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## flyernut

Looks good!! Great job.


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## Big Ed

Can't pull the wool over old Ed's eyes, they see everything. 

Heck, even in a closeup picture I think it looks great.
You can hardly see it. :smilie_daumenpos:

Do some more and you can become The Epoxy man #2. 

If you do an advanced search just type epoxy in the search box then pick user name T-Man.
You will see the results. 

T-Man, I think has done an epoxy repair on every train item made, plus more.
T-Mans the King of Epoxy. He sure keeps them in business. 

Who said throw it away?
Even if something like that doesn't work the broken part will look good in your junkyard or a gondola scrap hauling car.
Never throw nothing away!

Nice job. :smokin::thumbsup:


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