# Sectional Layout Benchwork



## Dr Bob (Dec 31, 2013)

I am in the benchwork design stage of a sectional layout of 2' x5' and 2' x 4' sections. I have a question about what some of you do in terms of the layout surface. For something of these demensions, do you use plywood, foam, or foam on plywood or something else? Also, what thickness of plywood is preferred? I am trying to keep these units light in weight for a possible future move in a few years.

Thanks in advance.

Dr Bob


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## Gansett (Apr 8, 2011)

Stand back, you're going to get bombarded with advice.

HO or N?

HO, 3/8'S osb with 1 inch foam. N, 1/4 inch ply with 1 inch foam.
2x5 and 2x4 I'd run just one 1x 4 brace across in the middle.


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## model-a (Jan 20, 2014)

Yep what Jack said go on the internet and you can see some pictures to look at hope I helped but Jack has right.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

what JackC recommends is pretty much standard construction now, foam will let you carve ditches / terrain later on easily.. you might want to do a fascia, 1 1/2 tall from same plywood, will keep the foam from accidentally getting banged up later on..make it deeper if you want to put turnout or accessory switches on the fascia .. plus a deeper fascia will protect under table wiring during storage or moving


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## Dr Bob (Dec 31, 2013)

Sorry about that. It is for HO. 

Jack, I am ready to get bombarded. So bring it on. 

I have tried to interpret photos on the internet and I'll be darn if I can see what people are using. I have read everything from 1/4" to 3/4" plywood with and without foam. I have even read to just us 1" foam. 

Thanks everyone and keep those comments coming.

Dr Bob


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## Gansett (Apr 8, 2011)

Google "model rr benchwork'' .
Then there's always the NMRA pages 

http://www.nmra.org/beginner/consist.html


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Dr Bob

I think you saying you are building MODULES measuring 2 X 4 and
2 X 5, but unsure. I also assume you will bolt these together.

If so, I would suggest, since you are concerned about weight, that 
you use 1 X 3 or 1 X 4 framing and add a cross member for sturdiness.
You could safely top them with only 1/4" plywood . 

And, like the others, I would recommend the 1" or 2" foam
over that.

Don


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

My HO layout is 10'X10', constructed with 5/8" plywood and 1" foam on top.
Steel support legs with 2X4 and 2X2 framing.
It's worked very well for me.


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## midlifekrisiz (Jan 29, 2013)

Mine is L shaped 10' x 4' & 8' x 4' - 1/4' plywood ontop of a 1'' x 4'' frame with 1'' x 4'' cross members and 1" foam on top with 1'' x 4'' L shaped legs bolted on and it is very sturdy and because it is bolted together I can move it if i have to......hope that helps.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

raleets said:


> My HO layout is 10'X10', constructed with 5/8" plywood and 1" foam on top.
> Steel support legs with 2X4 and 2X2 framing.
> It's worked very well for me.


GAD, are you building a battleship or an HO layout? What in the world requires that kind of strength?


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

The layout was 4X8 to start, then I expanded it to 10X10 by adding 2' along one long edge, 
4' along the other long edge, and 1' on each side.
Everything is supported via 10' 2X4's to make it VERY level and stable.
When I'm not running trains I hold dances. The fees I charge for dancing cover my train expenses.  
Any other questions??


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## Dr Bob (Dec 31, 2013)

Yes, I am planning on making the frame from 1x4" kiln dried lumber. My long range plan is to eventually have an around the room layout, but I plan on doing 1 wall length at a time. The layout overall will be 10' x11'. Based on my track plan, i have arranged the sections or dominos such that 2' x 4' and 2' x 5' sections work out best. So phase one is to build sections to extend the length of one 10' or 11' wall and then complete that length with track, wiring, scenery, etc before going onto the next wall. My reason for doing this is to get something up a running soon and, since I may be moving in a year or 2, only build as much as I can before the move.

It sounds like most people here feel 1/4 - 3/8" plywood would be fine as a base when covered by 1" foam. 

I am considering legs that are either 2x2" or L legs from 1x2 and 1x3. I would also like to minimize bracing. Any suggestions here? I have seen some L legs that have an "H" shape design with a 1X3" piece between the 2 legs and short cross bracing at the frame. Anyone use this design?

Thanks.

Dr Bob


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

raleets said:


> Any other questions??


I think that covers it.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Dr Bob said:


> I am considering legs that are either 2x2" or L legs from 1x2 and 1x3. I would also like to minimize bracing. Any suggestions here? I have seen some L legs that have an "H" shape design with a 1X3" piece between the 2 legs and short cross bracing at the frame. Anyone use this design?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Dr Bob


The L shaped leg gives you more stability when you use 2 bolts thru each
side of the L. Unless this is going to be a free standing table (not against
a wall) that is about all you need. Additional bracing would be nice but
really not necessary.

You'll be doing yourself a favor, also, if you can put adjustable 'feet' on
the legs to aid in leveling.

Unless you are young and agile, I would suggest that the under
table clearance be around 40" to allow enough headroom when you do all the
under table wiring. 

Don


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Our modular 48" x 30" sections use 2x2 legs. Once a few sections are clamped together, it's very solid. Don is right about table clearance, our modular club tables are 40" to the top of the rails, and it's not that much fun to be under there wiring!


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## Dr Bob (Dec 31, 2013)

Thanks Don and John for the advice on the legs and bench height. Sounds like the "L" legs will work best for me as I am planning on having the sections against the wall although not attached to the wall. also I will add adjusters for height. If I make it 40" to the edge of the 1x4 framing, that will give me 43 1/2" to the bottom of the layout. I will measure my height while sitting and see how that works.

Dr Bob


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

You can save some work if you can plan ahead for
your wiring before you put the table top on.

I drilled holes in the cross members for this.

A post on another Forum suggested using hooks screwed
into the cross members so that you simply
lay the wires in them, instead of passing thru the holes. This 
would make changes and corrections to the wiring more simple.
It would also be easier to disassemble the layout. You would simply
lift the cables out of the hooks.

You could probably run your track power buss, a buss for lighting and,
if you know the
locations, the wiring for your turnouts, all before screwing down the
table top, thus avoiding that awkward and arm tiring crawling under
the table wiring.

Don


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Our modular 48" x 30" sections use 2x2 legs. Once a few sections are clamped together, it's very solid. Don is right about table clearance, our modular club tables are 40" to the top of the rails, and it's not that much fun to be under there wiring!


grjohn is spot on concerning table height. Mine is only 34 1/2" and it's a real back and neck breaker to do wiring underneath. Had I known then what I know now it would have been at least 40" from the floor.
Live and learn!
Bob


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The idea of drilling holes and running some (if not most) of the wiring before putting the table in place is a good one. When working on some of our modular club modules, I lean the module up on it's side and work on it that way.


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## Dr Bob (Dec 31, 2013)

Good ideas on the wiring.  My thoughts right now are to have all my turnouts manual as the plan is to go around the room with 1.5 - 2.5 ft wide benchwork. I am planning my track so turnouts are within reach. I also have no reversing loops. So wiring should be simple with a track power buss and an accessory buss. I hope to wire each section as I go with a plug arrangement between each unit. If and when they need to be moved, just unplug the wires between each section, remove the leg assembly and they can be moved. 

I like the idea of wiring before it is in place so the sections can be placed on their side. My plan is to build the units in my garage, add track and wire. Then move the unit to the spare bedroom, attach the legs and combine units. Scenery and structures added when the units are in place. Drilling holes in the cross members of the benchwork would work for me since the wire going between units will be by plugs and not continuous.

Any thing you see here I am missing?


Dr Bob


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Looks like you've got a good plan going.

I did the same, built all the modules in the
carport and kept the mess there. Did install
the legs in the 'spare bedroom' when I took the
modules back there. Made it was easier to carry.

You are going to be very glad you are using height
adjustable legs since you are going to put the table
top and even the tracks on out in the garage. They''
make it easy to level it all out when installed in
the final location.

Don


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## nearboston (Dec 19, 2013)

2' x 4' modules


Part of my first Trolley Layout plan, I am planning to use 1/4" plywood for the construction. the dotted line shows location of track except that there will be another module attached on the left side, with a loop connecting the inner and outer tracks, and a loop on the right side. Pretty simple as far as a layout goes, but I am taking things slowly in order to re-hone my long dormant skills.

This will be a simple 'squished circle' of track, but with overhead power for the LRV. I will be putting most of my attention into a sturdy base, and putting in scenery to replicate part of the Boston MBTA Green Line.


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## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

I refuse to do any wiring under my layout even though it's 42" to the top. I wire everything with enough length that I can unhook it and bring it to the front if I need to work on it. My back is useless.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Hutch said:


> I refuse to do any wiring under my layout even though it's 42" to the top. I wire everything with enough length that I can unhook it and bring it to the front if I need to work on it. My back is useless.


Know what you mean Hutch, I have 5 or 6 buildings that I built
and installed lights in, but haven't pushed myself to crawl under
the table to connect them to the lighting buss.

However, Nearboston is planning to have overhead trolley wire
for his layout power pickup. He is modelling the Boston Green
Line which is some of their old streetcar lines. I got to ride
the original when they were still running the PCCs.

Don


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## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

donR,there is an idea for you. power your houses from the telephone poles.

its been in my head to do that when i get to the buildings. 
so let me know how it works out for you.

s


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

wingnut163 said:


> donR,there is an idea for you. power your houses from the telephone poles.
> 
> its been in my head to do that when i get to the buildings.
> so let me know how it works out for you.
> ...


I see pictures and videos here on the Forum where the modeller had 
strung wires from pole to pole and they looked very good.

But I am far too clumsy. My flailing hands would constantly be hanging
on one of the wires and down would come the whole shebang. So, I
just have to face crawling down under to turn on the juice.

On my latest project, a corner mesa made of foam layers
with a small farm on top has a
touch of reality that I did not expect. I 'dug' a trench to run wires
for lighting from house to barn to a pole light. Then smeared dry wall
past into the trench and the surrounding landscape. When it dried,
it had settled, just as does the fill of a real trench. But, pshaw,
where it is won't work, gotta fill it.

As to actually powering lights from wires on poles, you would have
some difficulty getting the right 'sag' between poles. The wires would
not be as flexible as the various strings that modellers have used.

Don


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## Dirtytom (Jan 13, 2014)

DonR. How bout pics

DT


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Tom

You're a rascal. You want pics of my mess? I've already
done the first patch or I'd be glad to ablidge. Tomorrow,
if, as I expect, the trench settled again, I'll do a pic.

Right now with no paint or landscaping all that white
plaster makes it looks like a snow scene. Jingle Belch. 

Don


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## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

the ditch was my next thought.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Well here is my proof of how not to do model railroad scenery.
It is sitting on my washer not the layout.

This is a couple of pics of a mesa that will go in the SW
corner of my room size layout. A small farm is on it.
It looks like there has been a major snow storm at present.

The dark patches is where I just smoothed out the 2nd
compound fill of the trench. You can also see the gigantic
'earthquake' fissure that cuts across the entire mesa.
That is where 2 sections of foam are joined. It flexed
and broke. I'll wait til I put the mesa on the layout
before repairing that.

The small yellowish indentation will be a small pond.

















Don


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## Dirtytom (Jan 13, 2014)

Thanks, looks great....

DT


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