# Kato Fox Meadow Layout (HO)



## blucrsr (Jan 8, 2019)

OK, so I've decided on making the Kato Fox Meadow layout as my first one. I figured I would start a thread to show what I'm thinking about doing and keeping all questions/updates in one place. 

This is a 6' by 10' layout. I might make it 11' since I have the room (and some extra 1x4 pine). The black square in the image is a 2 foot opening so I have better access. I straightened out the right side spur, but it (and the inside yard track work) are all going to be decided based on the buildings I purchase - I would love some suggestions on how you would configure these areas.

So the first track laid will be the two main lines and the left siding. The siding has a 2% grade and the spur has a 3% one. I was just playing around with grades in SCARM - not sure if this will remain. I quickly drew up a few Walthers Cornerstone buildings just to get a feel for the size of this layout - Medusa Cement, Magic Pan Bakery, 2-stall enginehouse, PRR bulk & interlocking station, brick freight house & office and the Whitehall station. The frame is going to be built from 1x4 pine. 1/2" OSB will be on top of that. 2" rigid foam to top everything off.

So here we go. This thread might just be me making some notes for a few weeks, but any suggestions/feedback is appreciated.


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Very neat layout. But it needs a passing siding.

You have a spur that requires the loco push a car
in forward and another that must be backed in.
For the loco to do this it needs to go around the
car via a passing siding. Perhaps it could be worked
in the top area.


Don


----------



## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

I'm a fan of Kato Unitrack myself. I put together the "Black River Junction" plan with some modifications, in particular a much larger "yard" on the "extension".

I used the Kato switch controllers and modular wiring hookup -- very easy to get assembled and easy to make changes if/when needed.

My suggestions (in no particular order):

1. Don't use a building over the tracks on the lower left. Instead, add another switch (towards the bottom) and make it a three-track yard. You'll find you _need_ a yard in which to store cars for your industries!

2. Add a switch on the industrial spur (to the right of the cutout) for a third (and possibly fourth) industrial customer.

3. For the spur on the extreme right: Where your industrial building is, you might add a small curved section (such as a 2-290) to slightly "angle it away" from being completely parallel to the edge of the table. I believe it would look more natural that way.

4. If you do choose to make the length 11', you might consider broader-radius curves at each end of the oval, for a "more sweeping look".


----------



## blucrsr (Jan 8, 2019)

Let the fun begin! After a full day of thinking, cutting and pocket hole cutting this is the base for my layout. Final size is 6' x 11'. The square in the middle will be left open. I made the legs 40" high. I will need to work on some bracing for them, but everything feels fine for now. I will also need to work on getting more lighting installed.

Heading out to cut the OSB...


----------



## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

Very nice benchwork.

Take a look at the Westinghouse 200 watt LED bulb. It draws only 35 watts and is very bright.


----------



## timlange3 (Jan 16, 2013)

Stop! Do your lighting next while you still have access to the ceiling.


----------



## bewhole (Dec 31, 2016)

timlange3 said:


> Stop! Do your lighting next while you still have access to the ceiling.


Yes do this before you get the top on or anything else. You will be able to see better and you can set up the lights so you can get the best lighting possible without most of the shadows.


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Good carpentry is to be admired. :appl:

But be sure to drill a lot of holes in your
frame members to run wires for track bus
as well as building lighting, turnout wiring
and the like. It's a lot easier before you top
it off.

Don


----------



## blucrsr (Jan 8, 2019)

Thanks for the concerns on the lighting. The whole table will easily move to the other wall by placing all the legs on furniture glides. This will give me plenty of time to figure out the lighting I need to purchase.

Plenty of wire holes were drilled (good tip) and the OSB has been installed. I'll be getting the foam attached some time this week. Hopefully all the goodies I ordered will be delivered soon.


----------



## blucrsr (Jan 8, 2019)

Goodies are starting to show up. The bulk of the track order should be delivered tomorrow.


----------



## mholiver (Feb 12, 2019)

following with great anticipation
I have decided on a Kato Unitrack layout for my first HO
I'm on the fence with this layout or the Black River
I do know I want 2 mains and wish to run 2 or 3 or even 4 trains at a time
the local club I recently joined is NCE DCC so I will be purchasing a Power Cab Starter Set...over there, most controllers are cordless, but new members can borrow what they need while running the club layout
well, best to ya and I can't wait for your reports and to report my progress as soon as I get the spare "play / sun room" cleared out and the benchwork done
rgds
Mike
in Nawlins'


----------



## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

Looks like you're off to a good start, good luck with the build.

Magic


----------



## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

If you want "two mains" with continuous running, the "Fox Meadow" plan above is probably better than the Black River Jct.

It's possible to keep two engines running on the BRJ plan (with a bit of modification), but on mine, one engine switches while the other "runs the loop".


----------



## blucrsr (Jan 8, 2019)

Not much of an update, but I got the foam attached and have begun laying some track. Currently playing around with the layout trying to find a place for my structures and a small staging yard.


----------



## blucrsr (Jan 8, 2019)

Well, I was able to play around with the track using SCARM. I made room for my 2-stall engine house and added a 3 track yard. I'll figure out the right side as I get the packing house and feed mill built.


----------



## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

One thing that I see that may help is the second turnout going to all the spurs.
It looks like if you use a left turnout instead of a right it would straighten out the track to the yard. 
Might not work out but maybe worth a look see.

Magic


----------



## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

I'd be a little concerned about the S turn on the yard lead. Long equipment might not negotiate that well.


----------



## blucrsr (Jan 8, 2019)

Thank you for the suggestions. The good thing about the Kato Unitrack is I can snap together a test section and see how everything works over it. If it doesn't work or look correct I can quickly try something else.

Magic, I've probably revised the yard way more than I should have. I was able to make the track width fit the engine house (which I really wanted somewhere on the layout). I had it extending much more, but felt the short distance would allow room for another "yard" building. I then fit the yard around this, trying not to move too far away. The one downside to Kato is that the turnouts have a couple of specific pieces that need to come off the 2 legs so I had to work with those constraints.


----------



## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

The plan in reply #15 above is looking good, but I'd suggest a few small revisions.

Your "yard lead" isn't straight.
The switch to the enginehouse territory should be left-hand, not right-hand.

Then, experiment with track sections to get a smooth transition into the enginehouse.

Also, the little "s-curve" to the industry on the lower right seems wrong. Just _one_ curve (to the left) will look and work better.

I use Kato Unitrack myself.
I've made numerous revisions and tweaks to my own plan. The Kato system makes this easy.

Sometimes you have to just ignore the track-planning software, and see "what fits" and "what works" by trying things "by hand" and by the eye.

I used the Kato switch levers -- they work really well.

I also used the "terminal Unijoiners", which also made the wiring easy (and easily re-configurable). Also you might consider the part number 24-827 "3 into 1" terminals, they help with getting the wiring organized.

If you get one of these tools:
https://www.evike.com/products/26956/
... you can "pop out" the wires from the plastic connectors.
Then... just "snake the wires" through the hole in the table top, and re-insert them into the plugs.
Makes for smaller "holes"!

_Also --_
If you use the terminal Unijoiners, take an Xacto knife and "split" the two wires apart at the joiners. Give yourself about 1.5-2 inches of "loose ends". This will make it easier to work with the Unijoiners, especially if you need to "break" a prior connection. If you don't do this, you risk breaking the wires from the joiners (found this out the very first time I tried it!).


----------



## blucrsr (Jan 8, 2019)

Once again, thanks for all the feedback. I've taken them into consideration and have come up with the following edits. I think the left side looks much better now - not so curvy!


----------



## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

That looks *much* better.

Magic


----------



## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

Yes. Much better.


----------



## blucrsr (Jan 8, 2019)

I've been slowly working on my layout for the past 9 months. Hope to get going a bit more as the summer winds down. I still haven't figured out what to do with the right side of the layout, but I'm happy with how the left side is turning out. The Walther's Champion Packing Plant will eventually occupy the right side, just not sure how the track will be configured. I started building the 4 walls of my structures to get an idea of how things will begin to look. Trying to decide if I can add a few small elevation changes to break up the flat surface. Anyways, here's some pictures of my progress.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Looking good, what are you planning for the access hole?


----------



## blucrsr (Jan 8, 2019)

Big Ed said:


> Looking good, what are you planning for the access hole?


No plans for that area right now. I'll be thrilled once I have everything else done and that is the last spot!! For now it's a nice way to access all areas since the layout is 6' deep.


----------



## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

maybe a mountain on the access whole cover with feet so you can set it down on the layout or buildings ect.


----------



## jackpresley (Dec 19, 2017)

*Following*

First, thanks for sharing. I no longer have a hobby room. Until I do, I'm living vicariously through you guys that are nice enough to post photos and progress of your layouts.

Great benchwork and your latest plan looks very interesting and reliable.

Do you plan on adding any elevations? Elevating the track by as little as 1/4 inch and/or elevating the ground around it can add a lot of visual appeal, in my opinion. I did find I had to make sure I had some completely level track leading into and out of the turnouts, however. I had coupler issues otherwise.

Look forward to the next update.


----------



## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

yes, thanks for sharing ...
it's looking quite good


----------



## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

The Kato track makes it easy to move and adjust a plan to taste (while still looking good).

Regarding placement of "the tower" in your pics above:
A tower like that would generally be located where the yard lead/mainline switch is, controlling the main and access to the yard lead...


----------



## blucrsr (Jan 8, 2019)

jackpresley said:


> Do you plan on adding any elevations?


I am currently playing around with adding a little 1% or 2% incline to a couple of areas just to change things up a bit. But I can't quite decide if I like the way it looks. I'm also trying to plan out where the roads are located so everyone can actually get to work each day. I've started getting some of the structures primed and hope to be posting additional updates in a couple of weeks.


----------

