# Identify a die cast loco - 302?



## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

As you may see the Engine markings are worn off. I don't know if this is a 302 or whatever. Also, I want to acquire the proper tender for this unit. How do I identify that? And, does anyone have a good working tender with eunit? Thanks all for your help and assistance!


----------



## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

That looks like K5 locomotive. 312 or so. PRR engine. It uses a tender like the aux tender you got from flyernut. Super nice engines. I have a 312 that needs some work. I just have not got to it. I like the high mounted headlight. That one looks nice Broke. I think the cab numbers were 310 to 316. 310 had no smoke or choo choo. I don't have a spare tender.


----------



## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

It is a K5 Pacific. There appears to be no slot for a Reverse Unit in the top of the boiler. It has hex head rivets. Is there a date stamped inside? Is the smoke and Choo choo unit in it? Are the brushes slotted or shoulder style? Does it have a jack for a 4 wire harness? All these things will help determine the engine number. 312 is a good guess from the picture.


----------



## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

AmFlyer said:


> It is a K5 Pacific. There appears to be no slot for a Reverse Unit in the top of the boiler. It has hex head rivets. Is there a date stamped inside? Is the smoke and Choo choo unit in it? Are the brushes slotted or shoulder style? Does it have a jack for a 4 wire harness? All these things will help determine the engine number. 312 is a good guess from the picture.


Yes, it is a Pacific and has 3 drivers. The brushes are coil springs. There is Smoke and Choo Choo. It does have a 4 wire jack howbeit broken. I am afraid to take it apart because my vision is bad and hands shake. So I haven't seen the date stamp. I manage to add more problems when I attempt to repair one problem.:laugh::laugh::laugh: I should have realized that it was not an Atlantic.:laugh:


----------



## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I think my 312 is an early model. 1946 to 1948. It has slotted brushes and I hope to
change to shoulder brushes just so all my AF steamers take the same brushes and
springs. I think later 312s had shoulder brushes. My 312 has been in storage since 1953.
She is pretty stiff. Grease has hardened. the cab numbers are silver on mine. flyernut
will be your best bet on a tender. They are not cheap on ebay.


----------



## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Fred, assuming no traction tires it is either a 312, 312AC, 314AW or 315. The last two are low probability but possible. The good news is you can make it into any one of those you want to.


----------



## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

AmFlyer said:


> Fred, assuming no traction tires it is either a 312, 312AC, 314AW or 315. The last two are low probability but possible. The good news is you can make it into any one of those you want to.


I am going to call it a 312. Now all I need is a tender with eunit to make it work. Thanks all!


----------



## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

Sometimes the date stamp is closer to the rear of the boiler and can be read using a flashlight to illuminate the inside of the boiler. Make sure you get the right tender. If you purchase a tender that uses the combined trailing wheel with the draw bar you will only need a screw to connect. If your engine had a separate trailing truck and you don't have it you'll have to purchase one, in addition verify your engine has the cab mounted bar with the nut present for the other type of tender with the "Z" type draw bar. It's always something, Isn't it?


----------



## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Fred, I have around 6 of these beautiful runners. I have 2 versions, some have the die-cast trailing truck, and some have the long drawbar such as on your 302. That being said, your 302 tender will run the 312 for test purposes and for just plain running. The correct tender can be pricey, but if you got the engine cheap, it would be worth the cost of a tender for it. The jack panel can be replaced with a repo... So, if you want to run it, simply plug your 302 tender into it.. And, as always, I owe you a favor, so send it out to me and I'll take care of your baby, no charge, I have all the necessary parts on hand... And I received your check Sat buddy, thank you again.. This engine should be cheap to ship..Loren


----------



## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

From Broke's pic of his engine his does not have the diecast trailing wheels so his takes the
long draw bar as on a 302 tender. As flyernut says hook a 302 tender up to test engine
and run it. Watch for a K5 tender with long draw bar. Mine has the trailing wheels on engine
with the Z drawbar. My nut is missing from that plate that runs across back of engine. I see
many of them missing.


----------



## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

mopac said:


> From Broke's pic of his engine his does not have the diecast trailing wheels so his takes the
> long draw bar as on a 302 tender. As flyernut says hook a 302 tender up to test engine
> and run it. Watch for a K5 tender with long draw bar. Mine has the trailing wheels on engine
> with the Z drawbar. My nut is missing from that plate that runs across back of engine. I see
> many of them missing.


I believe that missing nut is a 4-40. Simply JB Weld a nut to the cross bar, and give it a coat of black paint.. You'll never see the repair..


----------



## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Thanks flyernut. Sounds like a plan. I will put tender close to see if nut should go on top or bottom of cross bar. However it looks best to hook tongue of tender. No one will ever notice. That's the least of problems with my 312. That's the one that
needs a square stud replaced in wheel. Jeff Kane has a nice used wheel with a square stud for me at 4.00. Not bad.


----------



## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

mopac said:


> Thanks flyernut. Sounds like a plan. I will put tender close to see if nut should go on top or bottom of cross bar. However it looks best to hook tongue of tender. No one will ever notice.


On engines with the die cast trailing truck, the nut on the crossbar should go on the bottom. With engines using the long draw-bar, there is no nut.


----------



## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Thanks


----------

