# Lionel 2035 locomotive



## fooldancing (Sep 27, 2020)

I have been given a Lionel 2035. It doesn't look like it had a headlight. Did lionel make one without the headlight?









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## Norton (Nov 5, 2015)

They all had a headlight. You can get a smokebox front for these, no problem. Jeff Kane at ttender.com com is a good source. Check out the rest of the engine to make sure you don’t need anything else.

Pete


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## fooldancing (Sep 27, 2020)

Thank you for the website. I will definitely check it out once I get it. 

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## Norton (Nov 5, 2015)

The part number is 675-32 for the front. That should come with marker jewels and a headlight lens but ask Jeff to make sure. He is very responsive to emails.

Pete


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## fooldancing (Sep 27, 2020)

Wonderful, thank you

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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Hi, welcome to the site.
You should post a picture of the front, you may be missing more but we can't see.


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## fooldancing (Sep 27, 2020)

Big Ed, Thank you. I will post one once I have it in my possession tomorrow. A friend's dad is going through his storage and came across a box full of trains. I'm not sure what all he has, but that picture is the only one he sent me.

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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

fooldancing said:


> Big Ed, Thank you. I will post one once I have it in my possession tomorrow. A friend's dad is going through his storage and came across a box full of trains. I'm not sure what all he has, but that picture is the only one he sent me.
> 
> Sent from my REVVLRY+ using Tapatalk


Take the whole box.


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## fooldancing (Sep 27, 2020)

Absolutely

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## rrswede (Jan 6, 2012)

See http://www.olsenstoy.com/cd/locos/loc2035b.pdf as well as photo

swede


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

I have a 2035. Lots of fun. Mine has a short, but I haven’t bothered to fix it because I run modern stuff these days. Before you go buying parts, I would clean and lube the loco and make sure it runs well.


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

Edit: I confused rrswede"'s pic with the OP's. It does seem like the headlight is broken off in the fooldancing's original pic..

Your boiler front seems to be intact including the headlight. Here's the link to Olsen's for the complete *2035 Service Manual*. Page 2 of the manual shows the configuration of headlight fixtured. The boiler front should "pop-off". Perhaps you just need a new bulb.


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## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Just going by the pic, I think there is something seriously wrong with the way that loco sits...and it looks like somebody took hacksaw to it!


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

The slot behind the smoke stack isn't a hacksaw cut. That's for the lever that locks the loco direction.


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## rrswede (Jan 6, 2012)

Lehigh74 said:


> The slot behind the smoke stack isn't a hacksaw cut. That's for the lever that locks the loco direction.


Take another close look at the slot right behind the smoke stack in the photo previously sent. Does it look like what you are describing as a hacksaw cut? Then take a look at http://www.olsenstoy.com/cd/locos/loc2035c.pdf. Look at the two photos of the motor, left side view and right side view. The lever sticking up in each photo is part of the "E" unit which is designed to control forward, neutral and reverse power to the locomotive. As Lehigh indicated, that lever should be present in your locomotive and is used to "lock" the locomotive in the forward, neutral or reverse position.

swede


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## fooldancing (Sep 27, 2020)

Thank you everyone for your advice and responses. I will have the loco in my possession this evening. I will take more pictures of it, plus the rest of the items that are in the box.

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## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

So, everybody going on about the slot for the E-unit lever, what happened to the bottom edge of the pilot? Just wore down from use?


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## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

In answer to my question, no it didn't wear down. The body isn't sitting on the chassis properly so I'm guessing some genius decided it was a good fix to cut the bottom of the pilot off so it wouldn't short on the centre rail.


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## fooldancing (Sep 27, 2020)

I will post more pictures once I have it in my possession. I will take multiple angles and the undercarriage.

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## fooldancing (Sep 27, 2020)

It's finally home.



















































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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

Well the headlight is there. It it doesn't light it could simply be the bulb.

Download the service manual pages from the link in my earlier post.


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## Norton (Nov 5, 2015)

There are two different engines pictured in this thread. The OPs engine does not have a front.
Pete


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

In his latest post: "It's finally home" the engine he's holding in his hand has a front with headlight.

Does he have two 2035s? 

Note: I did confuse another poster's 2035 pic with the original OP post.


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## fooldancing (Sep 27, 2020)

The front was upside down in my original picture. That pic was sent to me from the guy I got it from. Once I had it home I put the cover one the correct way. The headlight was at the bottom near the cowcatcher. That's why it didn't show up in the original posted picture. 

It needs clean up, but it looks intact. I'm assuming it's the 1950 2035? Of course it's just a guess from me since this is my first older locomotive.

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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

A little elbow grease and it should clean up nicely. 
Whistle tender too, nice.


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## Norton (Nov 5, 2015)

I think the only difference between the 1950 and 1951 is the way the eccentric crank fits into the wheel. The 1950 has a half moon and the 1951 has two pins that fit into slots. 
Pete


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## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

You got a better locomotive or at least a new pilot, good for you! You will have to do some maintenance of the tender wiring and probably some cleaning but that is par for the course on these old toys.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

hows it run? And whistle? Those are the real questions that need answers!


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## fooldancing (Sep 27, 2020)

As soon as I get an AC power supply, I plan on seeing if everything works.

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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

fooldancing said:


> As soon as I get an AC power supply, I plan on seeing if everything works.
> 
> Sent from my REVVLRY+ using Tapatalk


What are you planning for a power supply - transformer? There's the newer models like the Lionel CW-80 that can be had new or used (eBay). If you looking for a medium sized postwar Lionel transformer, eBay is an option. There's also expertly refurbished postwar Lionel transformers at *Tranz4mr*. Scroll down for the medium to smaller units. For the same or couple more bucks over eBay, you get a very nice unit. Just add shipping to the base price. Note: the KWs listed are one of the coolest models.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I would stay away from the cw 80s. They were know to have problems for a number of years. What do you plan to run and power? I dont have a clue what i have left for transformers anymore. You can get a 1033? For cheap and it gives plenty of power. 

All about the Lionel 1033 - The Silicon Underground why is theis guys name farmiler I. The article? He is a member here i think.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Yea, the trans4mer guy has a lot of good stuff and not that expensive. I always wanted a lw. Lol. 50 bucks is cheap. If you want to run more then one track, and lights accessories get the zw. Nothing is cooler. And they have lots of power to run future stuff. Plus the price has come down and to get one for 150 that has been serviced is a bargain.


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## Norton (Nov 5, 2015)

Prices on transformers are all over the map. I picked up this ZW for $75 bucks shipped to my door. I just had to clean it up. Appeared to be all original including the cord and rollers.









Pete


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## callmeIshmael2 (May 28, 2012)

fooldancing said:


> I have been given a Lionel 2035. It doesn't look like it had a headlight. Did lionel make one without the headlight?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


RE: the #2035, not the wooden box?? Anyway, I've had a few #2035s, which are great-looking locos on a layout. When taken care of, they are reliable runners, but they all have a few glitches that are fixable. I found that I spent a lot of time with my first #2035 just to get into the inside of the loco and put it back together (frustrating, for these great locos have lots of parts, but aren't hard to figure out. My guess is your #2035 has been heavily operated and/or mistreated at times. You may have two routes: Spend some time getting used to your engine or spend probably more than it's worth to bring it up to a good spec. With an engine like this, outside of cosmetic considerations, you just need the brushes either cleaned or replaced (EZ) along with cleaning the armature (copper face) cleaned well; the smoke unit cleaned out of pill residue (my recommend is replace with a liquid smoker for great smoke, also easy to do); and the light which, like the smoke unit, connects to one arm of the e-unit's solder posts and snaps into the boiler front, which grounds its wire soldered to the center of the light bulb and turns on when power is on the track. Have fun or spend money and learn nothing; I'm glad I got over the "I could never fix this stuff" message. Sometimes it's great not to have money to spend recklessly - you sure learn a lot more!


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## briangcc (Oct 11, 2012)

There’s nothing wrong with the CW80’s. They are very simple units...I have (2) of them. My kids love the simplicity...move the big red handle for speed or hit the appropriate button for the sounds(if equipped).

Been inside both. All you need is a triangle screwdriver set - see Amazon if you need some.

Common failure is the cooling fan. One of mine was noisy, the other didn’t function. You’ll know if its working as it moves a decent amount of air through the case...you can feel it doing so. Replacement fans are available through Ebay.

Nice loco. Hope it’s in running condition after a good clean & lube.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Why mess with buying the corect screwdriver, and new fan unit , or anything else when you can a 1033 at a simmiler or cheaper price? Im sure there ok , but if your buying a transformer why bother with one that has known issues?


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## rrswede (Jan 6, 2012)

sjm9911 said:


> Why mess with buying the corect screwdriver, and new fan unit , or anything else when you can a 1033 at a simmiler or cheaper price? Im sure there ok , but if your buying a transformer why bother with one that has known issues?


I agree with you 100% SJM. If running one engine and a couple accessories, the 1033 is great. The poster could probably find one on EBAY, locally, perhaps, make a request to pick it up at a mutually convenient location and avoid the shipping costs.

swede


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

sjm9911 said:


> Why mess with buying the corect screwdriver, and new fan unit , or anything else when you can a 1033 at a simmiler or cheaper price? Im sure there ok , but if your buying a transformer why bother with one that has known issues?


They don't build 'em like they used to


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## fooldancing (Sep 27, 2020)

callmeIshmael2 said:


> RE: the #2035, not the wooden box?? Anyway, I've had a few #2035s, which are great-looking locos on a layout. When taken care of, they are reliable runners, but they all have a few glitches that are fixable. I found that I spent a lot of time with my first #2035 just to get into the inside of the loco and put it back together (frustrating, for these great locos have lots of parts, but aren't hard to figure out. My guess is your #2035 has been heavily operated and/or mistreated at times. You may have two routes: Spend some time getting used to your engine or spend probably more than it's worth to bring it up to a good spec. With an engine like this, outside of cosmetic considerations, you just need the brushes either cleaned or replaced (EZ) along with cleaning the armature (copper face) cleaned well; the smoke unit cleaned out of pill residue (my recommend is replace with a liquid smoker for great smoke, also easy to do); and the light which, like the smoke unit, connects to one arm of the e-unit's solder posts and snaps into the boiler front, which grounds its wire soldered to the center of the light bulb and turns on when power is on the track. Have fun or spend money and learn nothing; I'm glad I got over the "I could never fix this stuff" message. Sometimes it's great not to have money to spend recklessly - you sure learn a lot more!


I definitely want to learn about these. I am pretty mechanically inclined. I'm a body tech for over 25 yrs...lol I'm for sure trying to do this on the cheap side. I'll be checking my local flea markets and such as well as eBay. Would running alcohol and q-tips work for cleaning the smoke unit? Would the rubbing alcohol remove the old paint? I'll get some metal cleaner for the side rods.
I found the wires going to the tender trucks need resoldered. I might add a couple of inches of wire. The originals look pretty short. 
I plan on only running one train and track for now. I'll build on as I get more into it and save some $$.

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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

You could try the rubbing alchohol, try not to get it on the paint, it will, of i remember take off a little bit of paint, but not much. Use a scotch brite pad on the wheels, a small drop of oil where it spins on the axels, like on the end of a toothpick. You dont want oil on the tracks. Also, check the bushes and the commuter plate. A scoothbrite on that can help some there. Good luck.


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## briangcc (Oct 11, 2012)

sjm9911 said:


> Why mess with buying the corect screwdriver, and new fan unit , or anything else when you can a 1033 at a simmiler or cheaper price? Im sure there ok , but if your buying a transformer why bother with one that has known issues?


Well using your logic...why buy outdated power supplies that don’t have the bell and horn features? Or better yet have wide open terminals that kids can short across with their wet fingers? 

Besides ever look at some of those kids toys out there? You know the ones your young kiddos love? Guess what they use for fasteners...you got it, triangle screws. So it’s not a one time use deal.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

The 1033 has a horn/ whistle controll? The terminals on the cw 80 are not a lot safer. Wet fingers can still make contact on the main terminal poles or better yet the track? . You can get the same nuts for the 1033 if you wanted to. The 1033 does have a proven track record. Not much to go wrong in it. And they still work 70 years later. The cw 80s had lots of problems when new. As you stated, they need things, and thats not even the ones that gave out weird power ratings, or the ones with the defective bell/whistle switch or the ones that had the polarity reversed. The 1033 is also cheaper and its more powerful. You dont need new technology to run a 70 year old train! 

And I never seen the triangle screws yet on toys , but my daughter is only 8 , so maybe soon?


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

For cleaning the armatures commutator use naphtha (e.g., Ronson lighter fluid). If you "spill" any, alcohol can dissolve the enamel on the armature's windings.


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## rrswede (Jan 6, 2012)

This is one example of what is available on EBAY. It is possible the seller is trying to sell an empty transformer case but I somehow doubt it. Probably will be bid up before the sale closes but -------?









Lionel Type 1033 Multi Control Transformer 90 Watt Untested For Parts Only | eBay


I want my garage back! You get what is shown in the picture unless otherwise stated. If there are no probes, leads, manuals, etc pictured, then they are not included. I will be happy to attempt to test/check/use, etc. to see if it works as intended.



www.ebay.com





swede


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## Norton (Nov 5, 2015)

1033s are good transformers. It was sold with the 2035 sets. It was my only transformer until just a few years ago and I even ran Vision engines with it but more power would be even better. I would start with at least an LW. Now that I have a ZW I can see how it runs all my Post War effortlessly. One thing to consider too is if the 1033 has its original rectifier it will likely need replacing. It would be nice after reconditioning these trains you can put them on the track and have everything work and not have to turn around and fix the transformer.

Pete


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## callmeIshmael2 (May 28, 2012)

callmeIshmael2 said:


> RE: the #2035, not the wooden box?? Anyway, I've had a few #2035s, which are great-looking locos on a layout. When taken care of, they are reliable runners, but they all have a few glitches that are fixable. I found that I spent a lot of time with my first #2035 just to get into the inside of the loco and put it back together (frustrating, for these great locos have lots of parts, but aren't hard to figure out. My guess is your #2035 has been heavily operated and/or mistreated at times. You may have two routes: Spend some time getting used to your engine or spend probably more than it's worth to bring it up to a good spec. With an engine like this, outside of cosmetic considerations, you just need the brushes either cleaned or replaced (EZ) along with cleaning the armature (copper face) cleaned well; the smoke unit cleaned out of pill residue (my recommend is replace with a liquid smoker for great smoke, also easy to do); and the light which, like the smoke unit, connects to one arm of the e-unit's solder posts and snaps into the boiler front, which grounds its wire soldered to the center of the light bulb and turns on when power is on the track. Have fun or spend money and learn nothing; I'm glad I got over the "I could never fix this stuff" message. Sometimes it's great not to have money to spend recklessly - you sure learn a lot more!


PS: Looks like you received a better #2035 than the 1st pic showed. To prevent the cowcatcher getting too close to the center rail, tug up on it a bit as you tighten the screw holding it to the frame. This small bit of finagling will keep the cowcatcher from hitting anything but cows on your track (like the center rail)...


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## Dieseler (Jan 29, 2014)

fooldancing said:


> I definitely want to learn about these. I am pretty mechanically inclined. I'm a body tech for over 25 yrs...lol I'm for sure trying to do this on the cheap side. I'll be checking my local flea markets and such as well as eBay. Would running alcohol and q-tips work for cleaning the smoke unit? Would the rubbing alcohol remove the old paint? I'll get some metal cleaner for the side rods.
> I found the wires going to the tender trucks need resoldered. I might add a couple of inches of wire. The originals look pretty short.
> I plan on only running one train and track for now. I'll build on as I get more into it and save some $$.
> 
> Sent from my REVVLRY+ using Tapatalk


If you get into buying trains a dremel will be your friend for various things like polishing the siderods etc.
The 1950 verion 2035 had a large round clyinder type magnet back wheels 
the 1951 version had the rectangle magnet same position thats the easiest way to tell year made.

The eccentric crank while being a half moon shape fitting into the wheel in 1950 was changed for the 1951 version which had the 2 pin setup along with the blind wheel to match.
But when a 1950 /2035 was brought in for service back then because the half moon would round itself out if the crank screw loosened Lionel would change the wheel and eccentric crank to the newer setup 
I have both and put lock tight on the eccentric crank screw to keep them in place.
These 2035s are very strong pullers matching the baby hudsons power 2055/65/2046 i can attest . ; )


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## SpaceCadetS98 (Dec 30, 2021)

upon reading these posts, I saw nothing relating to cleaning out a clogged smokestack - my father has his grandfather's old 2035 engine _same one as I've seen photographed above_ and his smokestack is clogged with a white substance that appeared to be the same as what is found on the end of a corroded battery. It is dry and seems to be from an old liquid that used to be poured in to make smoke.? We have been gingerly using q-tips and wiping as much as we can out but there is still a lot stuck along the bottom of the smokestack and we weren't sure of the safest way to clean it out without damaging anything.

I would love your suggestions!


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

SpaceCadetS98 said:


> upon reading these posts, I saw nothing relating to cleaning out a clogged smokestack - my father has his grandfather's old 2035 engine _same one as I've seen photographed above_ and his smokestack is clogged with a white substance that appeared to be the same as what is found on the end of a corroded battery. It is dry and seems to be from an old liquid that used to be poured in to make smoke.? We have been gingerly using q-tips and wiping as much as we can out but there is still a lot stuck along the bottom of the smokestack and we weren't sure of the safest way to clean it out without damaging anything.
> 
> I would love your suggestions!


The white stuff os from smoke pellets, thats how it worked. It wasn't a liquid but more like a pill. I used to scrape mine down and just let it burn off, there is a screen in there just dont break that. I think if it was really clooged people used miniral spirits to disolve it. I cant remember or confirm that.


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## Mixed Freight (Aug 31, 2019)

SpaceCadetS98 said:


> upon reading these posts, I saw nothing relating to cleaning out a clogged smokestack - my father has his grandfather's old 2035 engine _same one as I've seen photographed above_ and his smokestack is clogged with a white substance that appeared to be the same as what is found on the end of a corroded battery. It is dry and seems to be from an old liquid that used to be poured in to make smoke.? We have been gingerly using q-tips and wiping as much as we can out but there is still a lot stuck along the bottom of the smokestack and we weren't sure of the safest way to clean it out without damaging anything.
> 
> I would love your suggestions!


That white stuff is old smoke pellet residue. Back in the early post-war days, Lionel used smoke pellets. Liquid smoke fluid was a slightly later development.

You're doing fine by cleaning the residue the way you are. Just don't stick anything sharp or hard down in there to scrape residue, or you could damage the heating coil and render it inoperative. Once you get most of the residue cleaned up, you can actually start using smoke fluid in place of the tablets, should you not have any tablets.

There's plenty of information out there on the internet on cleaning, servicing, and converting/re-building old smoke units to new standards. Just do a Google search and see what pops up.

Here's one such informative site that can start explaining things for you...................

Repairing Lionel's smoke units | Classic Toy Trains Magazine


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## Norton (Nov 5, 2015)

You also have to clean below the element. The element comes off when you pry off the cap. Then pull out the felt. Clear the hole below the felt as thats where the air is pushed up by the piston. If you have a heat gun you can heat the felt to burn off the excess pellet material or simply replace the felt.

Pete


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

A heat gun will generate the heat to remelt it. Then just wipe it out. Make sure the hole is clear on the bottom. Or just run the engine and have the resistor melt it.


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## Norton (Nov 5, 2015)

The heat gun would be used on the felt after its removed from the unit.

Pete


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I have seen some that needed exterior cleaning. Check the hole and run it


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Time to view the smoke unit. Shown is the Train Tender order number for a liquid smoke kit.
Bottom left is the top to a pill smoke unit. TO the right is the liquid plastic top supplied in the kit.










Notice the pill unit has a bar that is soldered to the base.









This is the air hole mentioned before.










This unit is all cleaned up.


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## SpaceCadetS98 (Dec 30, 2021)

THANK YOU, EVERYONE! I will be sure to share these tips with my father!

Happy new year to all!


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## SpaceCadetS98 (Dec 30, 2021)

SpaceCadetS98 said:


> upon reading these posts, I saw nothing relating to cleaning out a clogged smokestack - my father has his grandfather's old 2035 engine _same one as I've seen photographed above_ and his smokestack is clogged with a white substance that appeared to be the same as what is found on the end of a corroded battery. It is dry and seems to be from an old liquid that used to be poured in to make smoke.? We have been gingerly using q-tips and wiping as much as we can out but there is still a lot stuck along the bottom of the smokestack and we weren't sure of the safest way to clean it out without damaging anything.
> 
> I would love your suggestions!





T-Man said:


> Time to view the smoke unit. Shown is the Train Tender order number for a liquid smoke kit.
> Bottom left is the top to a pill smoke unit. TO the right is the liquid plastic top supplied in the kit.
> 
> View attachment 574036
> ...




Hello again!

Do you by chance remember where you ordered this part from? Or do you have an accessible link for this piece?

And do you by chance know where I could find the post-war O track based in the late 1800's-early 1900's time period?


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Menards has track thats similar to what lionel used to use. Lionel still makes it also. As far as looking like time period track it does not. But your train will run on any o guage 3 rail track there are many to pick from. Some require more skill to put together then others.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Jeff Kane of the Train Tender has the kit 8141-55k
That is for liquid smoke.
The engine has the old pill set up.

The heater element is 671-225 and the liner is 671-212
Still looking for smoke pellets.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

They said they stopped makeing the pellets T man. Just went and asked at the LHS. They said they stopped making the repo ones. I have one old jar, thats more dust then pellets left.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

sjm9911 said:


> They said they stopped makeing the pellets T man. Just went and asked at the LHS. They said they stopped making the repo ones. I have one old jar, thats more dust then pellets left.


Dust works, I have a bunch of partially filled bottles with tabs/dust. I don't use many.
I didn't know they stopped making the repo's.


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## SpaceCadetS98 (Dec 30, 2021)

sjm9911 said:


> They said they stopped makeing the pellets T man. Just went and asked at the LHS. They said they stopped making the repo ones. I have one old jar, thats more dust then pellets left.



Thank you for your help! _This community is very friendly_
I will do some research with my dad on the parts you've provided and find a few step-by-step youtube videos on how to replace the heating element in the smokestack.


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