# Glue for styrene structures?



## WIrailfan (Mar 6, 2016)

Ok so I've finished all the trackwork on my new layout :thumbsup: It's HO scale. Now I've bought 4 structures to get a start on the scenery (which is a first for me) but I'd like some suggestions on which glue is best. I've searched a little bit and have seen the disadvantages of super glue (especially with windows) I'm ok with waiting for glue to dry lol! What do you guys use and why? I do plan on lighting them in the future. Also how about paints for the structures as well. I don't think I'm going to be happy down the road if I just glue them together with no detailing :laugh:


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## Viperjim1 (Mar 19, 2015)

I would suggest Tenex7r as you apply it with a paint brush while holding the pieces together or setting them on a building board and it's as thin as water and it melts the plastic together as you won't have to worry about your pieces falling off later. As far as paint, you can use just about anything but depends if you want water base or solvent based as the smell is the only problem here and it goes on a lot better if you get an airbrush. JMO


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## The New Guy (Mar 11, 2012)

I don't believe in the "one best" method. Slow setting glues give you fiddle time. That can be good, that can be bad. I'd start with a slower setting solvent type cement for the main assembly. Don't forget applicators. They make this job so much easier and cleaner.

CA works fine for most of our purposes as well.

simple white glue will typically hold windows well.

HTH, and YMMV.


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

You are going to get a lot of different ideas on this. Try some of the suggestions and see what works for you.

I was in the same situation as you about 3 years ago -- starting on my first structures ever. Here's what I have learned -- mostly by trial and error.

I prefer a gel type styrene cement (like Testors). But I apply in with small doses with a pin. The gel stays put while you assemble the pieces. With the liquid, it is easier to accidentally get some on the exposed faces and mar your model.

The gels to take longer to set. But I do my assembly on small slabs of wood (covered with foil to keep from accidentally gluing the model to the wood). I work on several models at the same time -- or several parts of a larger model. After some assembly on one part, I move the wood to another table and bring back the other part that is dry now.

Also, since the gel takes longer to set, you have time to reposition parts if necessary. But once you have them in place keep an eye on them so that they don't shift.

As for detailing, I use a small paint brush to modify the colors of some of the parts, so that there are more than just 3 colors on the model. For example, on one building, I painted the stone foundation gray. It was originally the same color as the walls -- sort of a wood brown. And I painted the chimney a brick red -- instead of the dark, reddish brown that was the same as the wall color. I use water-based paints so that I can wipe off mistakes without damaging the model.

I also try not to glue the roof on. This allows me to detail the inside -- some of which shows through open doors. For example, I am currently working on adding work benches to the inside of an engine house. The roof can then be removed to show off the inside.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Since you plan to light your buildings be sure to
blackout the interior walls, ceiling and floors so
they won't glow as if nuked. I use a combination of
card stock, black electricians tape (for corners) and
thick black house paint.

Don


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## santafealltheway (Nov 27, 2012)

I use this for pretty much everything.


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## time warp (Apr 28, 2016)

General rule of thumb for paint and adhesives: slower dry will usually give a more durable adhesion.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I agree that there is no one right answer to this. All of us have our own preferred methods. You're going to have to find one that makes sense to you and try it. If you're not happy with the results, try another until you find something that works for you.

For an adhesive (styrene to styrene), I use this: https://www.walthers.com/products/t...quid-plastic-adhesive-model-master-1oz-29-6ml

It has a built in needle applicator, allowing you to apply very small amounts, and it also wicks into joints. They make a non-toxic version in a blue container, but it doesn't work as well.

For joining dissimilar materials, CA is usually the best choice. 

And finally, my oddball suggestion. Sometimes, I want to assemble something temporarily (like the roof of a structure, so I can go back and detail the interior later). For this, nothing works better than plain old rubber cement, like you used in grade school.

For painting, I use Vallejo acrylics. The have several different lines; personally, I use ModelColor for brush painting, ModelAir for airbrushing, and PanzerAces for weathering and camouflage colors. ModelColor and PanzerAces are easily thinned for airbrushing, if desired, and you can brush paint ModelAir just fine. Microlux paints from Micromark are made by Vallejo and color-matched to several popular PollyScale / Floquil colors.

I know a lot of people say acrylics aren't as good as solvent based. My personal opinion is while that may have been the case 25 years ago, modern acrylics are every bit as good as solvent based paints, with the added benefits of being non-toxic and cleaning up with soap and water.


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