# DCC conversion possible?



## Don Trinko (Oct 23, 2012)

I got a life like loco from a friend. He said he thought that the open holes in the pc bd were for DCC. I am attatchin a photo of the board. Thanks; Don


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## D1566 (Jun 8, 2012)

Certainly is possible, I have done a couple of Proto Budd RDCs with similar boards, needs some soldering skills and a couple of cuts with a sharp blade! There are various online guides, google the loco type plus DCC installation should bring it up.


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## Don Trinko (Oct 23, 2012)

I am retired but I worked in electronics all my life so that is no problem. I will search and see what I find. Thanks, Don


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## D1566 (Jun 8, 2012)

Good luck, let us know how you get on


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

The takes a decoder like this, Soundtraxx #851002:


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## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*DCCdrop wire dilemma*

Well, I have some more questions, on the best and most prudent way to convert over to DCC on a common rail dc layout. 
This layout has many,many,block sections and then some. Wires will rise up or drop down too the heavier gauge buss wires.(not yet added). Now my question start............
1.)The drop wires should be kept as short as possible. Correct?
2.) The drop wires should not exceed 3 feet in length is this also correct ?
Having an existing layout,where the rails are weathered(painted).........
3.)Should I remove the paint with chemicals?paint stripper and use rubber gloves And a scotch bright pad ? Now........, Or a better way?Cut rails which are free of paint and solder on drop wires to these short rails that will connect to the bus? What would be the best most prudent technique? to solve my dilemma?
P.S.Both rails(+) and (-) should be both insulated on a DCC powered Layout. (Correct?)
Thank you. Regards,tr1


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## Brakeman Jake (Mar 8, 2009)

Answers,one by one...

1-Partly true,you try not to have drops that are unnecessary long but not necessarily a bad thing,sometimes no choice.

2-Then again,if you run low current engines (N scale,modern HO) and your wire gauge is large enough (20-22 ga.),you shouldn't have problems.Usually,drops support current loads for relatively short lengths of track (3 to 6 ft.) so multiple trains are unlikely.

3Just cleaning spots on the outside of the rail with a small file should do.Use a soldering iron that is hot enough so solder melts instantly so you don't melt ties.

You will need insulators if...
-your turnouts have metal frogs.If you're not having issues with DC,there's a fair chance you won't need insulators there.
-you have return loop(s) on the layout...then both rails at both ends need insulators.You will also need polarity reversing devices like the Digitrax AR-1.
-if you want to divide the layout in power blocks (command station and boosters),then again insulate both rails at the junction.


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## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*wire guage and current support.*

so, up above, your saying that having lash-ups(multiple trains) are unlikely, Iquite do not understand that statement. Thank you Mr. Brakeman. Regards,tr1


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## Brakeman Jake (Mar 8, 2009)

Feeders are generally installed at three to six feet intervals,making sure power is equal throughout the layout,so that you practically never have a single feeder supporting all the load alone to start with.
Then,if a six foot section is separated with insulators at both ends,then yes a single feeder is doing the job but still,you can't logically have many trains on that length of track.
I don't know the scale you're modelling.However,modern locos draw little current (lower than .5 amps in N,slightly more in HO) so 20-22 ga. drops every 3-6 feet should do just fine.The exception would be if you're planning to run huge trains with three or more sound equipped locos,then increasing feeder size to 18 ga. may be a good idea.

In short,a feeder supports only a rather short track section,not the whole layout.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Tr1

If your trains are running fine as a DC layout, you should not
have any difficulty converting the existing track and wiring
to DCC.

I say that not knowing how large your layout is.

For the typical DC layout with existing blocks served by
more than one power pack through a panel of switches,
you would need turn all blocks ON and set to ONE power
pack. The output of your DCC controller would be connected
to the INPUT of your panel where the power pack was connected.
Disconnect all power packs.

Unless you have other unsual wiring that should power
your layout with DCC. 

This will get your started with DCC with a minium of effort.
You may, as time goes on, want to remove some of the
wiring and panel switches and move toward a more
straightforward DCC wiring plan with one buss serving
drops from all of the tracks, but that's for another day.

Now if you have a large layout we'd need a lot more information
to make any sensible advice. 

You are advised to remove or
park on a dead track all DC locos when powering by DCC.

Even the most minimum DCC system will provide enough
amps to run 4 or 5 locos at the same time.
I do it all the time with my 1 amp Bachmann EZ.

Don


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## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*Trying to gain some understanding first.*

Don, guys,thank you, for your input. My H.O. 5'x9' layout has been sitting idle for many years
while making some improvements.... I stopped operating prior to the DCC experience, and
now I feel like converting over my layout too try the DCC experience. I would like to add
heavier buss wires to help in sure, not to ruin the decoders.
I'll also add snubber's to insure clean signals. Frequent track cleaning also helps. I know its been said 30' is the number. But, What about wheel pitting? Could it help there? My layout can be broken down into two halves(41/2'x5'. Possible two modules? Thanks. 
Regards,tr1


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## Cosmo706 (Mar 13, 2017)

There are "drop-in" decoders (with minimal soldering required) made specifically for that brand/model engine.
I installed MRC versions on several of my LL/Proto-1000 Alco diesels with excellent results.
I recommend finding a sound decoder for the particular model locomotive you have as the "all inclusive" sound types tend to be a tad on the cheezy side.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Considering that this thread is 6 years old, and the OP hasn't been back in about 3-1/2, I doubt he will benefit from your advice.


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## Cosmo706 (Mar 13, 2017)

I didn't realize it was that old, it showed up at the bottom of the page as a link.
Caught my attention because I've done "exactly this with exactly those..."


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Yes, the Recommended Reading section is dangerous. That's why I ignore it.

Perhaps we're meant to take the title literally: *read,* but don't post....

Other forums I participate in that use this same software are able to label old posts so this doesn't happen. Too much effort for our hosts to implement that feature here, I guess.


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