# 336



## flyernut

I've done some work on my "new" 336. I dissected the engine down to it's bare essentials. All 4 drivers on the chassis were VERY stiff due to the fact of sitting on a shelf most of it's life, and partly due to crud in the axle bearings.The pul-mor tires/drivers on the rear set were hard, so I came up with a pair of NOS pul-mor tires/wheels/rims, and took them down to my local train shop. They're going to dunk the entire chassis into their ultrasound cleaner and free up the wheels. Also going to install the new pul-mor wheels and re-quarter. When I received the engine, it had a number board missing, due to the fact it was dropped on it's edge and broke off the number board. It also bent the catwalk alongside the boiler to the boiler face. To fix that, I heated up the bend with my plumbers torch,and SLOWLY bent the catwalk back into a nice straight line again. Using a small detail file, I got that catwalk nice and straight. I then used my dremel and did some work with a cut-off wheel, then finished it off with a very fine sanding disc. I also removed the other number board and trial fit the new number boards to the boiler. I got the boards from Doug Peck, and they're nice. I plan on keeping the original cab numbers on the shell, but I'm going to sandblast the shell, and paint it. I'm dying to try out my son's new air-brush!! Here's a few pics.


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## flyernut

Hit the wrong button!!


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## Aflyer

Flyernut,
Looking good, sounds like a great project. Can't wait to see the repainted shell.
Aflyer


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## Big Ed

Are you going to paint it a custom color or black?


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## flyernut

big ed said:


> Are you going to paint it a custom color or black?


I'm going to airbrush it satin black, trying to get it back to an original color, or as close as I can get to it. The only thing is the white stripe, and I'll have to give that a little thought. I also want to keep the cab numbers as original. I have a few plans for it but as an original shell. Just to mention this but the technique I used to straighten out the bend should work for you 3 rail guys also. After all, it's just white metal, the same for both flyer and Lionel.. In fact, the article I read was about fixing the cab roof on a Lionel shell. I saw it in a Classic Trains magazine, but can't remember the month/year.


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## RookieHudson

I feel so inadequate when I see stuff like this.. Look fwd to her coming to life


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## Big Ed

You have to watch that it doesn't crack.

Have you seen this thread?
How to unbend a bent cab,
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=16951&highlight=bent+cab


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## flyernut

big ed said:


> You have to watch that it doesn't crack.
> 
> Have you seen this thread?
> How to unbend a bent cab,
> http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=16951&highlight=bent+cab


Thanks for that link Ed. The article I read used the oak molds as well as heat to straighten the cab roof. Worked great. I was a little leery about ttrying the fix on my 336 as these engines are not cheap, and shells can go for a good price if nice.


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## Big Ed

Is the white line just running down the side of the catwalk?
You should be able to hand paint that on?

I know easier said then done.


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## flyernut

big ed said:


> View attachment 33529
> 
> 
> Is the white line just running down the side of the catwalk?
> You should be able to hand paint that on?
> 
> I know easier said then done.


yep..


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## Big Ed

In the picture I posted it looks like the tender is not hooked to the locomotive?
The rear coupler on the tender looks real low too, is that normal?
You going to hand paint the white on?


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Testors makes white paint pens, much like a magic marker pen. Couldn't you just run that down along the edge to get that white line? Also, when heating for bending, how do you know when it has reached sufficient temperature to make the bend attempt?


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## flyernut

big ed said:


> In the picture I posted it looks like the tender is not hooked to the locomotive?
> The rear coupler on the tender looks real low too, is that normal?
> You going to hand paint the white on?


The tender is attached to the loco. If you look, you'll see the wiring harness, and a shiny"s" shaped thing. That's the strap to the tender.. And yes, that coupler does look a little low to me too.I would like to use some type of small roller to paint that white stripe.


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## flyernut

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> Testors makes white paint pens, much like a magic marker pen. Couldn't you just run that down along the edge to get that white line? Also, when heating for bending, how do you know when it has reached sufficient temperature to make the bend attempt?


I didn't have any clue as to how long I should heat it. I just put the torch to it for about 5-10 seconds, and attempted a small bend to get it back to a stock position.If it didn't work, I used more time on it, then made another attempt.


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## RookieHudson

Stupid though on painting that white line as I've never done it.. Could you get some of that blue tape or paper wrap that sucker up good and tight just leaving the line you want exposed. Spray paint it light a couple of times until you get the look you want.


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## Big Ed

Good ideal on the paint marker pen.
Watch it, some of those run a little.

What about a white Sharpie pen, the permanent kind?


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## llskis

FWIW:I put tape on the catwalk and use a paint pen then lightly pinch it against the tape. Comes out nice
w/o runs. Larry


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## flyernut

Here's a couple of pix of the 336 boiler. Primed














, and then air-brushed with a flat black. Polished whistle, original cab numbers, new number boards, and polished boiler handrails.


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## flyernut

Finished






























product, no white stripe.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Looks like s nice job, but seems a bit flat in finish. Aren't the original finishes a little more shiny? Perhaps a satin black finish??


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## 2genflyers

Regarding the white stripe. If you've got a steady hand, "drybrushing" might work. Take a wide flat artist's brush very small (max 1/4" wide), load it with paint and then rub 95% off against a papertowel. Then holding the sides of the bristles, not the tips, against the area to be painted slowly move down that line. The key is the amount of paint on the brush. You're better off starting with not (too dry) enough. You can always re-wet the brush and do it again with more paint on the brush the next time. Scale modelers use this technique to "highlight" certain features, silver is often used on edges to mimic where paint has worn through and exposed the metal underneath. This technique will virtually eliminate the risk of runs and overpainting.

PS - the prepwork looks excellent. If you want to bring up the shine just a little there are all types of clear finishes available. You can mix, flat, semigloss and gloss in what ever ratios give you the desired finish. I'm sure it'll be a stunner when you're done.


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## llskis

Nice job but have to agree with N/B/F; a bit too flat; satin black would be closer. It still looks nice though. Larry:appl:

P.S. A good satin black is Rustoleum #7777.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Maybe he will add a clear coat of some ratio -- Flyernut has finished many a Gilbert steamer before and his work has been nothing less than astonishing. I'm content to wait for the finished product.


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## flyernut

Great advice, thanks all. I used a Plasticote paint on it but it was soooooooo glossy I air-brushed the flat right over it. It looked hideous!! I've used satin black before, and it was still a little too glossy for me.I put it up on ebay this afternoon. I'll see what happens, and if it doesn't sell, I'll keep it. I picked up a beautiful 336 all original shell Monday so my project shell has now become extra. I also have a great looking Hudson tender shell with smoke in the tender I can't bring myself to get rid of,lol...


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## flyernut

One of my son's friends works at a hobby shop,(!!!), and he said they have a clear satin overcoat there, spray bomb..


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## flyernut

Just got a call that my 336 chassis is done, and I'll be picking it up tomorrow, and putting it back together Sat. night, and maybe a test run. Hot chihuahua!!!


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Can't wait to see it running. BTW - I just bought a 322AC from a guy on the Flyer Facebook page. Will post a new thread with photos.


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## flyernut

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> Can't wait to see it running. BTW - I just bought a 322AC from a guy on the Flyer Facebook page. Will post a new thread with photos.


I think I have one, or 2 322's.. I can't remember!!!


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## flyernut

Here's my 336, all put back together,running and smoking up the room. I rebuilt the smoke unit as I wanted more smoke than what I was getting with the original. Parked next to my 336 is my K335, a copy of the one I had as a kid.


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## flyernut

A few more pix.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Beautiful, absolutely beautiful.


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## flyernut

Well, the boiler shell sold for $27.95, plus shipping. I added stainless steel cab handrails to it.. But here's a few pictures of the 336 all completed, with it's freight load. When I received the set, the tender had one step that broke during transport. I drilled a small hole in the step, and a corresponding hole in the tender frame. I then pinned it with a piece of .040 hard wire stock, (such as a handrail), and JB Welded it all together. The repair is invisible, and after touching up the gray JB that extruded out from the joint, it's perfect.:smilie_daumenpos:


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## llskis

Very very nice.:appl: Will you restore the tender now to get a matching set?? Larry


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## flyernut

llskis said:


> Very very nice.:appl: Will you restore the tender now to get a matching set?? Larry


If I can find a near perfect shell, I'll just buy one.


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## amer/flyer

flyernut,
How is the 336 doing, Dremel comes in handy for different uses, found out because I own one. If you have a dent spot in the cab, what can you do to fix this, fill in the dent and sand? One more thing when I get my armature from Doug Peck should you sand the communicator with very small grit sandpaper?


Thanks
amer/flyer


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## flyernut

amer/flyer said:


> flyernut,
> How is the 336 doing, Dremel comes in handy for different uses, found out because I own one. If you have a dent spot in the cab, what can you do to fix this, fill in the dent and sand? One more thing when I get my armature from Doug Peck should you sand the communicator with very small grit sandpaper?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> amer/flyer


The purpose of cleaning the face of the armature is to make it flat again. If you just sand it to make it pretty, it will help, but you won't get the same result as re-facing. What I do is to put the armature shaft in my drill press and spin it, holding a piece of 4oo grit or higher against it. I then finish it off with some 2000 grit wet/dry paper. DON'T USE STEEL WOOL!!The 336 is all done. In fact I was running it last night with 6 cars and when it went around a curve, it fell over, and pulled all the cars with it.. I like FAST!!


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## Nuttin But Flyer

What Flyernut says is Gospel. I do not own a drill press, maybe someday, but for now I chuck my armatures in the hand held power drill at the pinion gear end and while it's running, I hold a 2000 grit sandpaper against it. The face gets a nice bright copper finish but it should be done on a drill press to ensure flatness. But when you can only work with what you have, this will have to do.


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## amer/flyer

Thanks for the tip..

John


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## flyernut

To carry the conversation further, for years the loco was running forward almost exclusively, and that will wear a small, microscopic groove on the armature face.When you re-face it, you remove the groove. One of the symptoms of needing a re-face is the loco will run faster in forward than in reverse. A hand-held drill will work just as well as a drill press.


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## amer/flyer

Like redoing brake rotors on a much larger scale. So it is not necessary to re-face the new armature correct? We re-faced the old one already.


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## flyernut

amer/flyer said:


> Like redoing brake rotors on a much larger scale. So it is not necessary to re-face the new armature correct? We re-faced the old one already.


If you've done it once, you should be good to go.


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