# Bachmann EZ-Track



## kix662003 (Mar 8, 2013)

I'm just starting HO scale, and need to know if all Bachmann EZ-track is the same, other than coating and ballast (base) color? There's a local train show on Saturday, and there may be some bargains. I'd like to get the right track to expand a Walther's Railtech (931 series) train set. Thanks for any help in this matter.


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

You need to see what track comes with the Walthers set. Typically is Life-Like, since Walthers now owns Life-Like. They are different, as Life Like attaches from the side while Bachmann attaches from the ends. Look up Life Like Power Lock track. You will see the difference.

Black base is steel track while gray base is Nickle-Silver.


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## kix662003 (Mar 8, 2013)

rrgrassi said:


> You need to see what track comes with the Walthers set. Typically is Life-Like, since Walthers now owns Life-Like. They are different, as Life Like attaches from the side while Bachmann attaches from the ends. Look up Life Like Power Lock track. You will see the difference.
> 
> Black base is steel track while gray base is Nickle-Silver.


The set says that it's Bachmann steel rail here - http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/931-892


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

Then that will be the black based one. Nickel-Silver is the better one to have.

That said, The Bachmann EZ track has a nasty habit of having the plastic "hooks" break off when taking the track apart. This happens when the track stays together for more than a few days. I have resorted to using a little plastic friendly grease on those 'hooks'. I also flex them a bit to release the surface tension.

Now I have a board that I laid down cork and flex track. It works much better that the EZ track.


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## kix662003 (Mar 8, 2013)

Thanks for the info rrgrassi. 

When I use AnyRail and go the track libraries, there are 2 listings for Bachmann EZ track in HO scale. One is for HO EZ track and one is for EZ track steel. I notice the geometry is the same, but the selection is a lot greater for the HO EZ track. Now, I'm wondering why Wathers chose to include Bachmann brand track?

This is the layout I'm looking at. I'm in my 60s and it will probably outlast me without many changes other than adding rolling stock and a spare loco. I like the simple but unrealistic sound, and the price is right.










The set comes with Bachmann EZ-track. Looking at other forums, almost everyone recommends Atlas 100 nickel/silver track. I need to get the track laid out to continue to build my layout. Code 83 may be too much for my old eyes and arthritis. I only want to do this once, and don't plan to disassemble or move the track.

As a second question... Will this train set function well on Atlas Code 100 track, and should I forget Bachmann track? Most reviews on Amazon include poor ratings, mainly because of defective turnouts? What do you experts think?


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## RT_Coker (Dec 6, 2012)

kix662003 said:


> should I forget Bachmann track? Most reviews on Amazon include poor ratings, mainly because of defective turnouts? What do you experts think?


I have been using Bachmann EZ track for about 2 years (this is not a recommendation) had a lot of trouble with derailing on turnouts. This was only fixed after I bought a coupler height gage and checked/adjusted all of the coupler pin clearances. The up/down play in the coupler can also cause problems with long trains coming down a hill into a turnout. To fix this you can put a slight downward pressure on the couplers as you check/adjust the coupler pin clearance. I wish that I would have found this out before I wasted time trying to work on the turnouts! The manufacture’s forum seems to be mystified by this problem, and mostly focuses on the turnouts. I guess I should thank them for the good deals I have gotten on used Beckmann EZ track.
Bob


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

IF you are going to assemble the track and leave it as a permanent layout, get the N/S track and leave the steel track alone. I prefer the flex track since I can determine how and where to run it rather than being forced into a spot because of fixed track.

That is a nice looking set. I do not know who makes the DCC controller though. I never had trouble with the Bachmann Turnouts, but I used the #6 in the N/S. I also use Kadee couplers, and snip off the pin, as I do not use a magnetic uncoupler.


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## kix662003 (Mar 8, 2013)

The information on the controller is here. Even though the sounds don't come from the locomotive, my 5x7 layout is so small it shouldn't matter (to me).

I did visit a model train shop that's about 25 miles away from home, and the owner has offered to work with me in planning and will try to make sure that I only buy what I should need in exchange for my business. He even has some Flyer stuff and looks like his prices (on Flyer items) are fair. I don't know HO scale prices yet. It's good to finally find a "local" resource.


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## Pfunmo (Feb 21, 2013)

A local source is a definite plus. I've had several layouts over the years and now feel I know what I want for myself but now have another problem. I find there ARE no local supplies of the type I want. When I start looking at things on the INTERNET there are so many small details that just can't be seen. 

Learning a new hobby is so full of potential mistakes that it is almost enough to panic one out of doing anything. There really is no correct answer for many questions of what is best. Track has lots of options and what fits one doesn't mean it will fit the next guy. 

For my use, I also like code 100 and go with flex track. It makes the turnouts much cheaper and the flex gives just lot more ways to lay things out. But that does not mean the other track is bad. Just different priorities for each. Each type has it's own special little quirks and finding which is your flavor is really tough without spending money and time to find the answer. One of the unfortunate things in any hobby is that most do start out with the feeling that they may not like it long enough to spend a great deal of money. That often leads us into the mistake of buying cheap equipment. Can there be a worse case than an inexperienced person who also is using the cheapest equipment that often has the most problems? 
A simple case is the wheels on "starter" sets. Look at the flanges and you find they often have razor sharp edges. As you go along, you find these razor sharp edges can lead to all kinds of derail problems! They are the worst wheels but the most likely ones for the novice to buy. Bummer!


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

A note about the code100 track...it is like the 144 lb welded rail used by the railroad mainlines. Plus older equipment with the deeper flanges will run on it, like older Rivarossi locomotives.


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## kix662003 (Mar 8, 2013)

Thanks for all the help! 

I know that everyone has their favorites in about anything. I try to buy what I need and will be happy with the first time around. Cheaper is seldom better, but I also don't want to pay for things I'll never use or won't make me happy. I looked at Atlas 100, and I think it's going to be my choice. I may want to buy used rolling stock and it will be nice to know the flanges won't be bouncing over the ties. I've also heard that it's a good choice if I don't want to clean the track on a daily basis. I don't, but want to keep the metal wheels clean on the locomotive. I do like the flex track, but wonder if it needs to be stuck down to stay in place? My youngest son is an electronics tech, so soldering rail joiners shouldn't be an issue. 

I'm happy that the train shop that I visited stocks the Atlas track and the nickel/silver Bachmann track. If I have trouble, they're willing to help solve the problem. Thanks again to taking the time to keep me on the right track... or toward buying the right track! I am still planning to buy the set in the photo, but will use Atlas 100 track.


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## Pfunmo (Feb 21, 2013)

That is where we all get to make some decisions about what we want to use on our little empires. When I see code 83 being used, I admire it. Some small amount for the way it looks when studied closely. But much of my admiration if due to the idea that this is a fellow who is willing (and able?) to put up with some of the trouble code 83 brings with it. Some are will and able to manage it and others are not. I like good running with as little derailing trouble as possible so I forgo the possible better appearance for the better operation. Others fall on the other side and love the code 83.

Kind of like a beauty queen? I admire them but not sure I would want to marry one!


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

Flex track does need to be glued or tacked down.


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## Pfunmo (Feb 21, 2013)

Definite agreement on the flex needing to be fastened down. But then to make any track other than the really solid types with builtin roadbed, work as well as they need to, it often needs to be fastened, too. If one is stuck with a situation where he has to take the track apart and store it, using it loose is about the only choice but then it does take some grit to deal with some of the problems you may find. When the train runs around corners it will tend to push the track outward. At some point track that is not fastened will gradually work apart and you get derails. Not an impossible thing but a nuisance to avoid if your situation does not require it. 

A word of experience with buying cheap items. The wheels are about the most important item on rolling stock and deserve a lot of attention. I recommend avoiding the plastic wheels with sharp edges on the flange. If it is possible to fit in the budget, try to get wheels that fit a recommended practice called RP-25. Not at all hard to spot the difference if you look so don't worry about missing some tiny detail. Just look for rounded edges and you are likely looking at RP-25 wheels. I find this to be a difference worth paying to get.


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## kix662003 (Mar 8, 2013)

rrgrassi said:


> A note about the code100 track...it is like the 144 lb welded rail used by the railroad mainlines. Plus older equipment with the deeper flanges will run on it, like older Rivarossi locomotives.


Well, thanks to the help here, I've entered into the world of HO trains. I went to the local train show today, and bought a sharp, used locomotive that runs great with new Kadee couplers, two nice coal and two boxcars with Kadee couplers, a dozen straight and a dozen curved pieces of Atlas 100 track... but no turnouts, and ordered the Wathers set that's due to be released June 10th. I guess all the train pieces will sit until I get a controller and power supply in June. 

I also bought a Bachmann Sprectrum On30 Village Street Car set. It may help tie the two scale/two level layout with S and HO gauge together. The street car and barn are about the size of my Flyer set and it runs on... yep, Bachmann EZ-track, but it's the nickel silver rails on gray roadbed. 

Now having the EZ-Track and the Atlas 100 side-by-side, I think the Atlas on cork with ballast will look the best on the lower level. The street car has electronic auto-reversing built into the track, so I'm going to leave it as is. I already have three dozen HO structures on hand, so I've got what I need to keep working. I'll post a photo of the loco. I've already forgotten what brand it is! Old man with a matching memory!


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## kix662003 (Mar 8, 2013)

Here are a few photos of the locomotive that I bought today. I can only find a few numbers on the bottom. Does anyone recognize this engine? The box in the background is not the right one. Thanks!


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

Looks like a Hamilton or Baldwin switcher.


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## kix662003 (Mar 8, 2013)

Finally found it on eBay. It's an Athearn NYC S-12 Diesel #9314. I like the detail, and it looks like I may have the right box after all. The one on eBay shows the same box that has a different locomotive on the label. Maybe all the models in the series have the same box. No matter. I'm very happy with it.


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## kix662003 (Mar 8, 2013)

Post deleted.


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## kix662003 (Mar 8, 2013)

Post deleted.


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## kix662003 (Mar 8, 2013)

Has anyone converted the regular Bachmann EZ track to auto-reversing EZ track? 

I have a Bachmann On30 Village Streetcar set, and I am thinking of using the EZ track that comes with the Walthers HO Train set I've ordered to extend the streetcar run. I hope to be able to duplicate the wiring on the regular powered EZ track if it snaps together and the contacts line up. Does anyone know if they are?


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## kix662003 (Mar 8, 2013)

I learned the auto-reversing track and conventional track are the same configuration. Since no one seems to have converted one to the other, I'll post the result if I do.


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