# Link coupler or knuckle coupler?



## WildcatRR (Jul 28, 2013)

I need some info and input on the link coupler vs the knuckle (conversion also) question. Which operates the best and if you convert link to knuckle does it take away the value of the piece? I have a mixed bag of cars and engines and I'm limited to what I can run together. I would appreciate some seasoned thoughts about which options are the best track to follow. All thoughts are welcomed (I keep scratching my head on this one and it's getting thin on top)


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## Aflyer (Nov 10, 2010)

WildcatRR,
I also have a mix of link and knuckle coupler cars, as well as a few older locomotives like 312's that have link couplers.

I have one box car and one baggage car that are "conversion cars", that is they have a knuckle coupler on one end, and a link couple on the other. This way I can mix and match to create the consist that I want.

One downfall of the link coupler is they tend to uncouple on track that is less than stellar. Our club modular layout tends to have issues with link couplers, so we use very small elastic bands to cross over the links, hooking onto the pins on either side. This works great and we can run trains for hours without a break away. 

At home my layout is about 12 X 18, I run shorter trains, and don't usually have problems with either type of coupler.

As for hurting values, I am not changing couplers on any rare pieces so I don't see that as an issue, and you can always change them back.

I am sure others will add to these comments, and we will all learn other tricks and solutions.

Aflyer


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

My advice is to make several transition cars (one link, one knuckle) so you can use any engine to pull any cut of cars. This is a lot easier than changing all the link couplers to knuckle couplers.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Knuckles seem to work better, the link coupler needs to be adjusted more closely.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Link couplers require very careful adjustment to couple and stay coupled. They have two advantages. I you do frequent switching operations they couple together with the lightest touch, and the cars a closer together, looking better with links. I have a 12'x12' L shaped track oval on the carpet in my office. it is SHS sectional track with 29"R curves. It has a 14 car all link coupler freight on it. I run the train some most every day; there has not been a coupler failure in the 2 months it has been there. Due to the truck sideframe design link coupler cars have a high inherent rolling resistance so a 14 car freight is a heavy pull, only engines with traction tires will pull it. 
If a layout has track grades and sharp curves I recommend knuckle couplers. I do not recommend link couplers on layouts with grades. Once coupled, the knuckles stay coupled however I find I really have to bang the cars together to get them to couple. The couplers frequently do not line up on curves so manual intervention can be necessary when trying to couple them.


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## longle (Mar 7, 2015)

An occassional issue I've had in the past with KC's is that if they are not dead in line one coupler can bump the other coupler and close without connecting, if that makes sense. This past year I reconverted all previously converted KC's back to LC's. What I believe leads to LC's working is that the link must flop freely on the pin. If there is any stickyness, that's when the problems arise.


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