# Best track and turnouts?



## Bbdave (Oct 19, 2017)

Hi I am planning a new layout being in the U.K. I normally use Peco but having changed to a U.S. layout I wandered if I should look at any other options?


Dave


----------



## Krieglok (Sep 7, 2013)

I am using Kato track on my British themed n-gauge layout. I sort of took the lazy way using sectional track with roadbed built in. 

My Dapol 2-10-0s and smaller 0-6-0s glide along through the turn outs with ease. The Atlas and Kato American prototypes do the same. 

My last layout had Peco switches and Atlas flex track. It works well too, but entails more work with track laying and ballasting, but results in a more realistic look. 

Tom


----------



## Guest (Oct 28, 2017)

I like Kato Unitrack a lot. I had an N scale layout with Unitrack for about 10 years and never had any problems with it. The trains always ran well and the only time I had derailments was when I caused them.


----------



## Bbdave (Oct 19, 2017)

I had thought about using Atlas track and Peco turnouts I actually enjoy track laying and ballasting and have thought about hand laying but don't think there are any companies readily available here to make it cost effective but it is still an option. 
I had looked at kato but I'm not sure about not having transitional curves and it could be quite expensive on a large layout .

Dave


----------



## Brakeman Jake (Mar 8, 2009)

If the U.S. prototypical look is important to you,then Atlas C55 is the best looking choice.However,if prototypical looks isn't so important,then Peco C55 is great.Peco C55 tracks are literally bullet proof if installed correctly and have the widest choice of turnouts that I know of.

If you chose C80,then Atlas C80 is a little easier to work with than Peco C80 and can be mated to Peco turnouts fairly easy but I don't see why you would do this.


----------



## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Track recommendation*



Bbdave said:


> I had thought about using Atlas track and Peco turnouts I actually enjoy track laying and ballasting and have thought about hand laying but don't think there are any companies readily available here to make it cost effective but it is still an option.
> I had looked at kato but I'm not sure about not having transitional curves and it could be quite expensive on a large layout .
> 
> Dave


Bbdave;

I use Micro Engineering's N-scale,code 55, flex track. It looks more like real, North American, track than any other brand, in my opinion. It will also work with deep flanged wheels, which Atlas code 55 will not. The difference is the oversize spike detail on Atlas code 55 track. (Including sectional, flex, and turnouts.) Micro Engineering has smaller, and more realistic looking, spikes. Either of these brands, as well as others, will work fine with shallow flanges.
As for turnouts, I make my own. If you prefer to buy them, then I recommend Peco brand. They are very reliable and well built. Derailments are very few-none, on Peco turnouts.
If you want to hand lay your track, and/or turnouts, no exotic supplies are needed. You should be able to order everything you'll need online. The attachment below explains why, how, and with what materials I build turnouts. The same would be true for track. There is also a cost analysis included.

good luck with whatever you choose;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:

View attachment How I scratch build turnouts new(8).pdf


----------



## Bbdave (Oct 19, 2017)

I have all new stock and locos most stock is microtrains I don't think I can get micro engineerings track here I can get atlas I assume my gear will run on it. 
I'm planning a scenic layout the turnouts will be used for a staging yard that I will scenic I will use around 12 I think.


----------



## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Wheel flange depth*



Bbdave said:


> I have all new stock and locos most stock is microtrains I don't think I can get micro engineerings track here I can get atlas I assume my gear will run on it.
> I'm planning a scenic layout the turnouts will be used for a staging yard that I will scenic I will use around 12 I think.


Bdave;

As long as your equipment has shallow flanges, (most newer N-scale stuff does) you should not have any problems with wheels hitting the spikes on Atlas track.
Replacement, shallow flange, metal, wheels are also available from Fox Valley models, and Intermountain. Microtrains also sells them, (plastic) They call theirs "Low Profile" wheels.

good luck;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## Ko Improbable (Mar 15, 2017)

traction fan said:


> Bdave;
> 
> As long as your equipment has shallow flanges, (most newer N-scale stuff does) you should not have any problems with wheels hitting the spikes on Atlas track.
> Replacement, shallow flange, metal, wheels are also available from Fox Valley models, and Intermountain. Microtrains also sells them, (plastic) They call theirs "Low Profile" wheels.
> ...


The only problems I've had with Atlas Code 55 has been with Bachmann wheel flanges impacting the frogs. I still haven't really determined if my NW2's flanges are too deep or too thick, but it's the worst performer in this regard. I wish replacing its wheels was an option.


----------



## Bbdave (Oct 19, 2017)

What are Atlas turnouts like compared to Peco I've always used Peco but don't like the way the wheels drop into the frog as the design hasn't changed since pizza cutter wheels.

Dave


----------



## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Gage can check many things*



Ko Improbable said:


> The only problems I've had with Atlas Code 55 has been with Bachmann wheel flanges impacting the frogs. I still haven't really determined if my NW2's flanges are too deep or too thick, but it's the worst performer in this regard. I wish replacing its wheels was an option.


Ko Improbable;

You can check the flange depth on your problem Bachman NW2 with an NMRA gage. The slots marked "wheels" check not only the distance between wheels ("wheel gage") but can also check flange depth and tire width. If you don't have an NMRA gage yet, I strongly recommend getting one. It's one of the most useful, and essential tools on a model railroad. They come in all the popular scales. You can order one for your scale, from Walthers. www.walthers.com 
If you find that the flanges on that loco are too deep, you can turn them down to the correct depth with a miniature file. Turn the loco upside down and secure it in position. A locomotive cradle is ideal for this purpose. Connect one wire from your power pack, or DCC controller to the wheel pickups on one side of the loco. The other wire should be connected to the metal part of the file. Set the speed control at medium speed, and keep the file lightly touching the flange on the loco's opposite side wheels. The spinning wheel flanges will be turned down as the file removes some of the metal. Check the amount of flange depth several times as you go along. Don't remove too much.

good luck;

Traction Fan.:smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Gage can check many things*



Ko Improbable said:


> The only problems I've had with Atlas Code 55 has been with Bachmann wheel flanges impacting the frogs. I still haven't really determined if my NW2's flanges are too deep or too thick, but it's the worst performer in this regard. I wish replacing its wheels was an option.


Ko Improbable;

You can check the flange depth on your problem Bachman NW2 with an NMRA gage. The slots marked "wheels" check not only the distance between wheels ("wheel gage") but can also check flange depth and tire width. If you don't have an NMRA gage yet, I strongly recommend getting one. It's one of the most useful, and essential tools on a model railroad. They come in all the popular scales. You can order one for your scale, from Walthers. www.walthers.com 
If you find that the flanges on that loco are too deep, you can turn them down to the correct depth with a miniature file. Turn the loco upside down and secure it in position. A locomotive cradle is ideal for this purpose. Connect one wire from your power pack, or DCC controller to the wheel pickups on one side of the loco. The other wire should be connected to the metal part of the file. Set the speed control at medium speed, and keep the file lightly touching the flange on the loco's opposite side wheels. The spinning wheel flanges will be turned down as the file removes some of the metal. Check the amount of flange depth several times as you go along. Don't remove too much.

good luck;

Traction Fan.:smilie_daumenpos:

PS. The photo shows my locomotive cradle. It's a simple wood trough lined with felt to protect the loco's paint.


----------



## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Deep frogs*



Bbdave said:


> What are Atlas turnouts like compared to Peco I've always used Peco but don't like the way the wheels drop into the frog as the design hasn't changed since pizza cutter wheels.
> 
> Dave


 Bdave;

The problem you describe, with the frog being too deep, is common to most, if not all, brands of commercial turnouts. Including Peco, Walthers/Shinohara, and Atlas.
In terms of overall quality, ruggedness, and reliability Peco is highly recommended by many modelers. However, each brand has its fans. I don't think you will gain anything by switching from Peco, to another brand. 
Fortunately, the "wheels falling into the frog" problem can be fixed fairly easily. Glue some strips of thin styrene to the "floor" at the bottom of the frog. Build it up until an NMRA gage's "Flangeways" tabs just slide through the frog without dragging on your added styrene. The low profile wheels should then travel through the frog without the big bump.
I happen to make my own turnouts, and I use a metal frog, filled with solder and cut to fit the NMRA gauge. The equipment rolls through it very smoothly.


good luck;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:
,


----------



## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

You could look into Shinohara which is supposed to very good but I don’t know where you’d get it in the U.K. 
But you live in Devon and don’t want to use Peco!!


----------



## Brakeman Jake (Mar 8, 2009)

I use Peco C55 and don't have any flange issues,even with my pretty old Minitrix 2-10-0.


----------

