# speaker refit



## jojoegen (Sep 5, 2012)

I have an atlas GP38 and need to retrofit a speaker.I see people referring to styrene to build an enclosure.Went to a large craft store but didn't see this item.Does it go by another name such as foam board ?What do I look for and size needed.Thank you


----------



## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

You can get it at hobby stores or online, I use .030" sheets to make my boxes. Send me a PM and I'll shoot you over enough to make a box.


----------



## Brakeman Jake (Mar 8, 2009)

I've built an enclosure for the speaker in my SD80 using the thin plastic from a CD protective case...they cost next to nothing and regular plastic glue does the job.


----------



## gc53dfgc (Apr 13, 2010)

Some companies also make ready to go enclosures where you just put the speaker in and glue. I did something similar to avoid having to build a box and it works fine. They can be a little larger than a custom made enclosure though. So if you have the time and patience making one out of styrene or any kind of plastic would be a good option.

Some engines I bought at a show had medicine bottles as the enclosures, so what can be used is limitless.


----------



## jojoegen (Sep 5, 2012)

Thanks guys for the ideas.Think I'll try styrene first for an experiment.Thanks Sean. Take care my friends.


----------



## jojoegen (Sep 5, 2012)

*speaker retrofit*

Hi Sean.I have another observation that maybe you or someone can help.The loco I'm working on is an Atlas GB38 dc/dcc master.I notice that all 4 truck wires are Black,the motor wires are Black/Red with the red attached to a copper flat piece comming from UNDER the motor and Black from the top of the motor,lights are Back and Red from each light.This doesn't seem to follow the wiring patterns that I read about.It doesn't seem to have been played with prior to my purchase.Also I can't find what type bulbs they are.They are similiar to wheatgerm type with a filiment (part #850124 per enclosed parts diagram).What do you think?I will be changing to QSI Titon as soon as it comes in.I have been reading 2 dooks on dcc wiring and also on the net but can't seem to get answers.


----------



## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

jojoegen said:


> Hi Sean.I have another observation that maybe you or someone can help.The loco I'm working on is an Atlas GB38 dc/dcc master.I notice that all 4 truck wires are Black,the motor wires are Black/Red with the red attached to a copper flat piece comming from UNDER the motor and Black from the top of the motor,lights are Back and Red from each light.This doesn't seem to follow the wiring patterns that I read about.It doesn't seem to have been played with prior to my purchase.Also I can't find what type bulbs they are.They are similiar to wheatgerm type with a filiment (part #850124 per enclosed parts diagram).What do you think?I will be changing to QSI Titon as soon as it comes in.I have been reading 2 dooks on dcc wiring and also on the net but can't seem to get answers.


Ok to start you I can't chat with you anymore, QSI, you trader...(I'm a Soundtraxx Dealer):laugh::laugh::laugh:
I pull that decoder out of engines all the time, as a matter of fact I have several sitting in my parts pile.
Since your doing an upgrade, upgrade the lamps to LED's. I have the right ones if you need them and the resistors too.
On the truck wiring right is red and left is black.
The red on the motor is the positve lead of the motor.


----------



## jojoegen (Sep 5, 2012)

I'm soooooooo sorry.I ordered this decoder 1 week ago and had no idea you were a dealer untill now.What kind of lamps do I have?Led's won't work on the qqqqqqsi decoder with (i guess) there built in resistors?Do I have to add the proper wire colors or just make sure I follow thw wires that are on them?So,there are 3 questions fur ya.I promise I will order from you from now on.Do you have a web sit?That's 4 questions.I'd better stop here.Thanks


----------



## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Awww that's right QSI only puts out min voltage on their outputs. 1.8 volts if I remember right.
The lamps that are in there now are probably 12 volt lamps, I have been giving away 1.5 volt lamps, so guess what... they will be on there way to you soon too!
No need to change wires, just make sure they go to the right place.
My web site address is in my signature line at the bottom of this post.


----------



## jojoegen (Sep 5, 2012)

*styrene*

PS. 1 more question,PLEASE, With regards to the red motor wire being soldered to the copper looking strip comming from the bottom of the motor and the black soldered to the top,shouldn't the red(+) be on the top as per proper wiring?now you have two sets of questions.See ya


----------



## jojoegen (Sep 5, 2012)

gottcha,I'm so confused with these lamp thingies but you are the man so I'll listen.Thank you so much for the help and concern.How can I repay you my friend?


----------



## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

jojoegen said:


> gottcha,I'm so confused with these lamp thingies but you are the man so I'll listen.Thank you so much for the help and concern.How can I repay you my friend?


I checked QSI, the lamp output's are 12-16 volt, so the lamps you have will hook up and you could switch to LED's if you wanted to!



jojoegen said:


> PS. 1 more question,PLEASE, With regards to the red motor wire being soldered to the copper looking strip comming from the bottom of the motor and the black soldered to the top,shouldn't the red(+) be on the top as per proper wiring?now you have two sets of questions.See ya


If the motor get hooked up backwards it will just run backwards, It won't do any damage, easy fix just swap wires to the decoder if that happens.


----------



## jojoegen (Sep 5, 2012)

Sean,you're the man.What ever lights are brightest is what I want.It's just a "how to" type thing.I've been on the net so much my eyeball have www imprinted on them.Yes.if leds are brightest then yeh


----------



## jojoegen (Sep 5, 2012)

*lights*

Hi Sean.It was really cool talking to you.Can u tell me how to configure the headlight on the Bowser F7A to come on when the loco starts.We have theBW1000 tsunomi.Right now I have to push F0 twice in forward for them to come on.I have a Katty by MTH and the hdlights come on at start up .Thanks my super friend.


----------



## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

I'm sorry to say that the MTH works differently than Soundtraxx, it's also the differance between DCS and DCC.
Also some of your problems could be from your Controller.
I can leave my lights set to on and every time you pull up the engine the lights are on.
When they are off it only takes one push of F0 to turn them on.


----------



## jojoegen (Sep 5, 2012)

*headlight problem*

any ideas as to what could be wrong would be appreciated as I don't know shoot from shineola.


----------



## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

That type of contoller your using is the "problem". Digitrax and NCE controllers work a little different than yours.
Let me ask Soundtraxx monday if there is any work around for your problem.


----------



## jojoegen (Sep 5, 2012)

*headlight problem*

oooooooooooooooooooookkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk great.thanx 
Sean:thumbsup:


----------



## jojoegen (Sep 5, 2012)

*headlights*

Hi Sean,How did u make out with soundtraxx regarding the headlights?


----------



## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Yes I talked to Soundtraxx, Sorry there is no way to make the headlight turn on with startup.


----------



## jojoegen (Sep 5, 2012)

*headlight*

that's ok Sean.I can live with it.Thanks so much.Layout is all crated up and ready for Florida.All 6 tables.Gonna bring alittle of alaska to St.Pete.Probably won't see it for 1-2 years.Thanks again for all the help.


----------



## oldSmokey (Jul 31, 2011)

The QSI Titan has 10 outputs and they are 5V, also has 2 speaker Outputs.
You have to use resistors if you are going to use leds.
The Titan was made to use with Leds.

Hey, Sean, what QSI decoders do you have and can I buy some from you ??


----------

