# New to N Scale



## Kelpieflyer (Jan 9, 2012)

Hey All,

My wife wanted a N scale train so we got smoe stuff at a train show but I need some track. I'm a Flyer/Lionel guy so I know very little about good N scale stuff.

I have an HO scale transformer already and was thinking I would use that for power. Is there a good "starter set" of track I can get? Right now I'm looking for a basic oval that I can hook up transformer wires. Thinking along the lines of some sectional track like Lionel Fastrack or something like that.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,


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## Overkast (Jan 16, 2015)

Hi Kelpieflyer. I would suggest Kato Unitrack is a good starter set of track. It's very easy to connect together as the pieces are made to snap together and hold tight in place. It's not very prototypical though (as I think it is Code 80 size), but I suspect that's not an issue for you / your wife? Code 55 track is much more prototypical, but also much more intricate to deal with.

Is your HO transformer DC or DCC? You will need to know that b/c if you want DCC capabilities and you hook up a DC transformer, you will have problems.


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## Kelpieflyer (Jan 9, 2012)

We have an old DC transformer. No DCC at all.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Track and power pack*



Kelpieflyer said:


> Hey All,
> 
> My wife wanted a N scale train so we got smoe stuff at a train show but I need some track. I'm a Flyer/Lionel guy so I know very little about good N scale stuff.
> 
> ...


Kelpieflyer;

What kind of track to buy depends on what you intend to build; both now, and in the future. If you think the simple oval layout will likely be all you'll ever want in N scale; then I would agree that Kato brand unitrack would be a good choice. If, on the other hand, you feel this might be the start of a full blown, permanent, model railroad, then I would recommend buying Peco brand flex track now, and Peco brand turnouts (track switches) later. Kato's unitrack, and other brands of sectional track with built in plastic roadbed, are limited in the shapes available, and quite expensive, compared to flex track.
As for your old HO power pack, save it to power lights and accesories. It will not be a good power source for N scale trains. The electric current, and voltage requirements are a little different for those two scales. The internal resistance of an older HO pack is also different. This might cause speed control problems, and possibly damage an N scale locomotive.
I would buy a new, MRC brand power pack made specifically for N scale; and use that to run the trains.

Hope that helps you;

Traction Fan


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Id agree with most of what TF says but rather than go with the Peco flex track straight off why don't you use their sectional (like Kato) Setrack. That would allow you to build your initial oval but add to it later with the the flex when you want to expand. Kato track is good but even building a small layout with it can be very expensive.

I'd also consider going for a DCC controller which will give you many more options and more fun, basic ones are very reasonable now.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

There is really not that much difference between
DC power packs made for either N or HO. Both scales
use about the same variable DC voltage.

I used the MRC power packs i had for N Scale on
an HO layout with no problems.

Your choice of track would depend a lot on the
type of layout you intend. If only a simple oval
any of the sectional or roadbed based track
would work. If you plan a more extensive layout
by all means go with Flex track that comes in
3 foot sections and can be bent to match your
layout design. But be sure it does NOT have
brass or steel rails. They are not as good
for electrical conductivity to the loco wheels.

Don


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## VegasN (Mar 14, 2016)

Wait a minute......don't be so quick to just throw Kato out there. Do yourself a favor and look into Bachmann EZ Track. Essentially the same as Kato, just seems to be a tad bit less expensive than Kato. Also, the two, with very minor modification to the connecting tabs, they can work together as well. You can even incorporate flex track with a cork road bed and bring up to Bachmann and Kato heights. I run both, pieces of Kato in a mostly Bachmann EZ Track system. Both work equally as well, Bachmann seems to have more options though. At least in the hobby stores here in Vegas.


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## GNfan (Jun 3, 2016)

*E-Z track*

One caution about Bachmann E-Z track: the consensus on Bachmann's n-scale forum is that there's no simple way to do old-school block wiring. The rail joiners are bonded to the rail, and once you get them removed they don't mate well with any insulated joiners on the market. I use E-Z track and like it, but if you're planning a complex DC layout it may not be the best choice. Right now I have a simple DC layout (two trains on separate loops) - in my next one I'm planning to use little sections of Atlas Code 80 track where I need insulated joiners and build them up to the E-Z track height; which is a suggestion I found on their forum.


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## /6 matt (Jul 7, 2015)

Why not just take a dremmel a cutoff wheel and cut a small gap in one or both rails and put some nail polish down in the gap?


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## GNfan (Jun 3, 2016)

*E-Z track, pt 2*

Cutting a gap in the track, filling it with something non-conductive, and then sanding or filing it to the profile of the rail is the other approach I have seen suggested on Bachmann's forum. Usually it's suggested to frustrated newbies trying to add a siding to a Bachmann starter set to park a second train. Either way, it's a whole lot more "work" than just putting insulated joiners where you want them (like with Atlas sectional track).

I don't know why E-Z track "doesn't play well" with Atlas insulated joiners. I've never found an answer on Bachmann's forum. It works fine with Atlas Code 80 track and Atlas metal joiners. I've tried "fiddling with it" myself and all I can figure is that the little part of the insulated joiner that fills the gap between the rails forces them apart far enough to keep the roadbed from securely locking together. Maybe someone here knows.


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## VegasN (Mar 14, 2016)

Yes. GNfan is correct on the wiring. Simple layouts are pretty much what they are best for. I had to remove one of the rail joiners coming off both ends of a Bachmann turnout to create a gap and cut power to both sidings. That way I can park one train, run another on one controller. I get three trains on a 2 controller power pack. I can only run 2 at a time though.


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## Kelpieflyer (Jan 9, 2012)

We ended up getting some Pico track and an old HO transformer. Trains run great. These are the neatest little things even if they are hard to get on the track without a rerailer. I'm used to O and S gauge.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Rerailers and railers, (AKA railing ramps)*



Kelpieflyer said:


> We ended up getting some Pico track and an old HO transformer. Trains run great. These are the neatest little things even if they are hard to get on the track without a rerailer. I'm used to O and S gauge.


Kelpieflyer;

I'm thinking that by "rerailer", you mean a special track section with plastic edge, and center, pieces that look like the planks at an auto/train grade crossing. If so, you're right, that's exactly what it's called, a rerailer. There is another handy device available, that will help you get N scale cars on the track easily. I call it a "railer", though I doubt that's the official name. It is designed specifically to put cars on the track, the first time, when you are just starting to "construct" your train. It's a simple plastic ramp that clamps over the track. By rolling a car down the ramp, the wheels will automatically be lined up with the rails, and the car just rolls on. With this thing, you can put a whole train on the track in a minute.
The devise is available from www.microtrains.com or www.walthers.com[/ur] . When I orde...ong with it.
Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## GNfan (Jun 3, 2016)

*Railers*

I use a device called a "Rail-it" by Rix Products. $2.99 at modeltrainstuff.com. It does need a fairly long straight section of track to really work well.


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## VegasN (Mar 14, 2016)

Mine is a Rix that I picked up in some stuff I bought from Ron. It has been most handy. Saves a lot of frustration. Of course, depending on the car, they don't all rail perfectly every time, but it is so much faster and easier than hand railing everything every time. And no, it will not work well on anything but a straight piece, and depending on the length of the car/engine, you will need more straight-a-way for it to work properly. I've seen them on hobbylinc for under $2.00.


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## Viperjim1 (Mar 19, 2015)

*Railer for cars*

Pm me with your address and I'll send you one I have a few.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Railer and track*



VegasN said:


> Mine is a Rix that I picked up in some stuff I bought from Ron. It has been most handy. Saves a lot of frustration. Of course, depending on the car, they don't all rail perfectly every time, but it is so much faster and easier than hand railing everything every time. And no, it will not work well on anything but a straight piece, and depending on the length of the car/engine, you will need more straight-a-way for it to work properly. I've seen them on hobbylinc for under $2.00.


 Yesterday, I tried out one of these Rix railers on Micro Engineering's code 55 flex track. No go!:smilie_daumenneg: I remember it worked well on Atlas code 80 flex. Apparently it is designed to fit that type of track. I even tried modifying the railer to fit the M.E. code 55 track. That didn't work either. So if you're using anything other than Atlas code 80 track, just be aware that the railer may not work for you.

Traction Fan


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## VegasN (Mar 14, 2016)

I use Bachmann EZ Track and it works fine on that. Not sure what code that is. I read that Bachmann EZ Track is code 100, I have had others tell me it's code 80......so, not sure.


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## GNfan (Jun 3, 2016)

*E-Z track code*

I also use E-Z track for my current layout and I can't say I've actually read what code it is. I have seen numerous comments on Bachmann's n-scale forum that it "plays well" with Atlas code 80 except for the Atlas insulated joiners.


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## VegasN (Mar 14, 2016)

I have experimented a bit with other tracks. The Kato and Bachmann "ready-made" track systems line up well, but you have to modify the connections. Flex track also matches up well using road bed to raise the track to the Bachmann height, you just have to snip off the plastic connector on the EZ Track. As for rail joiners, Bachmann does NOT play well with others. The Bachmann rail joiners are attached in such a way that removing them can ruin the piece of track. If you get lucky enough to pull one off, you can create gaps to cut power to a track when your "power routing" turnouts actually end up being "all live".
But, after all is said and done, I still prefer the ease of the ready made track systems. No wiring, no soldering, no short circuits....just track and derailing issues.


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## Overkast (Jan 16, 2015)

The point of soldering in non ready-made track systems is because rail joiners degrade over time and can stop adequately conducting power around the layout to track sections... what is it about ready-made track systems that no longer make this a concern, and how is it that you can get ample power so far from the connection source?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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## VegasN (Mar 14, 2016)

Good question. I was wondering that myself. Why, with flex track you have to wire everything separate, jumpers, turnouts, boosters, everything. But with the ready made tracks, 1 power feed will run quite a large loop of track. Everything, track, turnouts, even at least one accessory. Although, ready made track turnouts have a separate power supply via the switch that needs a power source (i.e. transformer, buss, some sort of power). Always wondered how that works. Maybe it all hinges on the way the rail joiners are "attached" to the track and not easily removed.


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## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

I have the impression that there's a lot of unnecessary emphasis on power-to-track feeds. I've heard that we should be running feeds every 18" or even less. I am building a 4x8 N-scale layout, and have my outer loop finished. I have run multiple engines on it with one feed right by the power pack. Granted, the farthest it gets from the power feed is 4 feet (maybe 5 to 6 considering length and width), but everything runs fine, no slowing, no dimming of LED headlights. I do have many of the track joints soldered, though. I'm betting power would flow quite a longer distance. Of course, track and wheels need to be kept well cleaned.


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## VegasN (Mar 14, 2016)

Fire21 said:


> I have the impression that there's a lot of unnecessary emphasis on power-to-track feeds. I've heard that we should be running feeds every 18" or even less. I am building a 4x8 N-scale layout, and have my outer loop finished. I have run multiple engines on it with one feed right by the power pack. Granted, the farthest it gets from the power feed is 4 feet (maybe 5 to 6 considering length and width), but everything runs fine, no slowing, no dimming of LED headlights. I do have many of the track joints soldered, though. I'm betting power would flow quite a longer distance. * Of course, track and wheels need to be kept well cleaned.*


oh ain't that the truth. Living in the southwestern desert, we, obviously are very very dusty here. If my trains sit for even two days, I better clean that track before I run them.....hate the dust here.


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