# lathe



## jennthom (Mar 22, 2011)

Hi there!
I would like to buy a lathe, and looked online but there are so many kinds! Does anyone know what would be good for all purpose use for model trains and layouts? Thanks in advance!


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Hey All, I got this PM from Jenn I can't help her, 



Can anyone help her with a good all around lathe for the model railroad?


----------



## Xnats (Dec 5, 2010)

"this part deleted by me". I think a wood lathe would serve little purpose for model trains. With a metal lathe one can turn their own wheels, fabricate custom parts, ect. If it is a metal lathe they are expensive. This website has an outstanding reputation http://www.micromark.com/MicroLux-7x16-Mini-Lathe,9615.html


----------



## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

jennthom, You do know that a lathe can only do round parts by turning them, kind of limited use. Are you sure your not looking for a mill? A lot more uses then just round parts, I fabricate my own parts and a mill is what you use.
http://www.micromark.com/MicroLux-Micro-Milling-Machine,9683.html


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

NIMT said:


> jennthom, You do know that a lathe can only do round parts by turning them, kind of limited use. Are you sure your not looking for a mill? A lot more uses then just round parts, I fabricate my own parts and a mill is what you use.
> http://www.micromark.com/MicroLux-Micro-Milling-Machine,9683.html




wow that looks like a nice machine...cheaper too....maybe I will get one.:thumbsup:

does it come with instructions?


----------



## Xnats (Dec 5, 2010)

That is a good one Sean, I could see that one being very useful. Figures you have one


----------



## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

After you get a lathe or a mill, you will need a good set of calipers, an outside micrometer (a 1 inch should do), a depth mic with a set of rods, and a good dial indicator with an adjustable base.
Otherwise your new machine is just an expensive paperweight.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

A little milling info,
http://hubpages.com/hub/Milling-Machine

If you have some money, I would suggest a milling machine and a lathe.:thumbsup:

Can't go wrong.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

flyboy2610 said:


> After you get a lathe or a mill, you will need a good set of calipers, an outside micrometer (a 1 inch should do), a depth mic with a set of rods, and a good dial indicator with an adjustable base.
> Otherwise your new machine is just an expensive paperweight.



Your talking Swahili to her flyboy.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I also got the PM, I suggested a post here to give it wider exposure. I have fooled with a Unimat many years ago, but I'm no expert.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I also got the PM, I suggested a post here to give it wider exposure. I have fooled with a Unimat many years ago, but I'm no expert.


I like the sound of a computer controlled milling machine.
Just pop in some software and let it rip.:thumbsup:

you know...he who has the most toys win?


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, having worked with someone that used a very fancy CNC machine, it's a very complex task just to program it for the part initially. Once it's programmed, you can have one or a thousand identical parts.


----------



## nsr_civic (Jun 21, 2010)

Cnc programing is not as dificult as it may seem. Using programs like autocad or solidworks to design the part then using programs like mastercam you can take the part from a 2D drawing.and generate a toolpath that will produce a 3D part. I have been running cnc machines at my local comunity college for the last year and its quite a fun process!.


----------



## jennthom (Mar 22, 2011)

Haha Swahili indeed! I PMed the 2 members that looked most active, in hopes for a response, but I'm beyond surprised to already get so many helpful replies!! I was thinking it'd be a few days or so. This is an awesome online community; its cool to find people with the same interests. 

Stan- thanks, I now know to be looking for a lathe for metal 

I've been looking at this site for a while http://littlemachineshop.com/info/minilathe_compare.php trying to make sense of it all. I called customer service for a shipping estimate, and he knew I had no idea what this was..so he talked me through it. but looks like we have to get the tooling package as well, or else like flyboy2610 said, it'd just be a paper weight

Sean- I did not know that, great point. To be honest, I'm not sure what it'll be used for, but you've sold me on the versatility of the mill. Does it also do round parts? but I think if he wanted a mill, he would've told me about the mill though..hmm maybe he's hasn't heard of it? How to casually bring this up *scratching head*


----------



## jennthom (Mar 22, 2011)

Hmm I can't seem to delete this accidental post


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

When buying a lathe's talk to machinists.
Your best bet.
When buying trains talk to trainists?


----------



## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Most mills will also be a lathe, they are very versatile.
Just check when buying one they are usually called convertibles or multi use.
Yes you need to get a starter tool kit also, and with a mill you will need a vice too. It would be like getting the coolest X-mas toy that needs battery's and no one got any!!
Be sneeky and find out what he wants to make with it, Most everyone I know has ditched their lathes and went to a mill.


----------



## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

Also if you aren't quite sure if you will use it much try one of these if you have a drill press.

http://www.amazon.com/Cross-Slide-Drill-Milling-Machine/dp/B001FGAJTA

Kinda a cheapie Mill set up to get started.

I really like the Mill Sean posted. :thumbsup:


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

CP,

Great tip on the milling vice jig. I can't believe how cheap that is! On my "gotta get" list. Thanks!

TJ


----------



## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

tjcruiser said:


> CP,
> 
> Great tip on the milling vice jig. I can't believe how cheap that is! On my "gotta get" list. Thanks!
> 
> TJ


TJ, I don't have one but I was thinking a while back on getting one for the drill press for a project I was working on. I have dabbled in a Machine shop a time or 2 and would like to have a Big Mill/Lathe combo for the garage one of these days. Maybe after I get these kids out of my house!  :laugh::laugh:


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I helped my son with his Pinewood Derby car a few weeks ago. We milled out the insides with the drill press. Used crude setup of clamps and wood blocks mounted on the drilll press table to position and reposition the car during the machining. Worked OK, but one of your "gizmos" would have been ideal. Well worth the price, I'd think, even if it's not top Bridgeport quality.

Cheers,

TJ


----------



## nsr_civic (Jun 21, 2010)

The milling vice he linked to is great for working on soft materials like plastics and some softer aluminum. But I would recomend using small cutters and very light cuts. Drill presses are not made to handle sideways forces to the chuck. To big of a cut could cause not only cutter failure but it could cause drill press failure and potential serious injury. Also end mills are made to be helled in collets that suround the shaft. Gripping them in drill chucks can cause cracks in the cutter thus causing it to fly apart. Not a pretty sight. Just an informative post. Thx.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

nsr_civic said:


> Cnc programing is not as dificult as it may seem. Using programs like autocad or solidworks to design the part then using programs like mastercam you can take the part from a 2D drawing.and generate a toolpath that will produce a 3D part. I have been running cnc machines at my local comunity college for the last year and its quite a fun process!.


Well, the parts that I was involved with were pretty complex, it took the mill several hours and many tool changes to complete them. It was fun to watch it work, but there was many hours of tweaking the program and several trial samples before the parts were falling into the finish bin.


----------



## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

tjcruiser said:


> even if it's not top Bridgeport quality.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> TJ


Mmmmmm Bridgeport - I've been angling for one of those for years now to assist me in my automotive hobbies. Maybe once I get the 40x60 polebarn built.hwell:


----------



## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

nsr_civic said:


> The milling vice he linked to is great for working on soft materials like plastics and some softer aluminum. But I would recomend using small cutters and very light cuts. Drill presses are not made to handle sideways forces to the chuck. To big of a cut could cause not only cutter failure but it could cause drill press failure and potential serious injury. Also end mills are made to be helled in collets that suround the shaft. Gripping them in drill chucks can cause cracks in the cutter thus causing it to fly apart. Not a pretty sight. Just an informative post. Thx.


I only posted that for reference being this is for hobby type stuff. Small parts etc. I wasn't suggesting this for machining parts for the Space Shuttle  or the large hadron collider  or anything. I can appreciate the safety issues though. Good tip. :thumbsup:


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

nsr_civic said:


> The milling vice he linked to is great for working on soft materials like plastics and some softer aluminum. But I would recomend using small cutters and very light cuts. Drill presses are not made to handle sideways forces to the chuck. To big of a cut could cause not only cutter failure but it could cause drill press failure and potential serious injury. Also end mills are made to be helled in collets that suround the shaft. Gripping them in drill chucks can cause cracks in the cutter thus causing it to fly apart. Not a pretty sight. Just an informative post. Thx.


Good point. Worth repeating, and I agree. That said, I'm still interested in getting one of those "milling vices", even if it's for extra light duty work on the drill press.

Per our Pinewood project, in all cases, we were only drilling down (conventionally) ... no side loads on the drill. However, after a drill pass, we wanted to reposition the car some fraction of an inch over, and then drill (down) again. The vice gizmo jig seems ideal for that.

Thanks, guys!

TJ


----------

