# Where to Roadbed?



## Dr Bob (Dec 31, 2013)

I am closing in on laying track (HO) and will be using cork roadbed under the rails. However, I have read that some modeller's do not use cork roadbed under all track as it is more prototypical. Spcifically these locations are in yards and industrial sidings. So for some of you more experienced than me on this, I have a few questions.

1. Would you recommend doing this?
2. How do you make the transition from cork roadbed to no cork roadbed for sidings and yards?
3. Do you put a base of sheet cork under the yard?

Thanks for your comments.

Dr Bob


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## spoil9 (Dec 24, 2008)

On the Lionel/HO layout I'm in the process of building (link below) we're using cork roadbed for the mainline and thinner cork sheets cut to size for the sidings. Because we're lazy we used a piece of wood wedge cut to size as the transition but you could also pay a second layer of the thinner cork sheet and sand it flat with the cork roadbed and then sand it at an angle to match the lower siding level. Lots of sanding but a better transition in the end.


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Glue it down and sand it to thickness. I used 60 grit with decent success. The idea to use thinner cork and step it up from nothing to full depth is also a good one as you could easier control the transition grade that way (sand down the top corners)


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## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

in stead of sanding , try this.

http://www.grainger.com/product/4NMG4?cm_sp=HIO-_-HIDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ13

its the same thickness as cork road bed. 6.mm


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Dr. Bob

The guys have good suggestions. You might also check on
the 1/4" paper covered foam sheets available in black
in Walmart craft sections for your yard areas. There would
be little height transition to worry with. It can be cut
to use under spur tracks.

And, go easy on the glue. Just a dab or two here and there
is sufficient to keep the roadbed and track in place. It will
make it easier to make changes that always seem to come
along.

Don


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## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

DonR said:


> Dr. Bob
> 
> And, go easy on the glue. Just a dab or two here and there
> is sufficient to keep the roadbed and track in place. It will
> ...


 I learned that the hard way. I followed the instructions from WS and they used plenty of glue. That was a mistake as I'm now making changes and it can be difficult if not destructive to rip them up. So far I've been able to reuse what I've lifted.


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## Dr Bob (Dec 31, 2013)

Thanks for the comments. Sand, sheet cork and easy on the glue, all great suggestions. Do you go with no roadbed on all industrial sidings and if not, how do you decide which have roadbed and which do not? Also, I am planning on using code 83 rails on the entire layout, but would you use lighter rails on sidings or is code 83 fine?

Thanks again.

Dr Bob 

Dr Bob


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

I use the tin cork available in rolls at Home Depot for drawer bottoms for sidings, etc.

To help in keeping a nice, smooth transition I used the adhesive backed sandpaper and stuck it to a piece of 1x4. The longer you make the 1x4, the more gradual the transition.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Dr Bob said:


> Thanks for the comments. Sand, sheet cork and easy on the glue, all great suggestions. Do you go with no roadbed on all industrial sidings and if not, how do you decide which have roadbed and which do not? Also, I am planning on using code 83 rails on the entire layout, but would you use lighter rails on sidings or is code 83 fine?
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> ...


Doc

I use only code 100 track and turnouts so cannot comment on
the code 83.

Put your roadbed under what you designate as your main line. The roadbed
will set it apart especially if you use a different shade for the ballast. I just
lay my yard tracks and spurs right on the 1/4" foam I mentioned. I have 
learned that Passing sidings use that word, the dead end tracks to
industries are spurs. So, if you have a passing siding, it would be part
of your main and would get the roadbed. Now, let's see how many
rivets we can find.

Don


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## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

I've totally messed up. I put roadbed under everything. What a dope.

Yeah, it's my railroad and I'll do what I want.:laugh:

I'm sure the day will come when I start counting rivets but it's a long way off for this newbie.


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## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

Dr Bob said:


> I am closing in on laying track (HO) and will be using cork roadbed under the rails. However, I have read that some modeller's do not use cork roadbed under all track as it is more prototypical. Spcifically these locations are in yards and industrial sidings.
> 
> Dr Bob


Bob, don't get down on yourself and make self-accusations of having messed up. In your statement above, you said it all: "...*some* modelers do not use cork roadbed under all track..." You can be one of those who do.

Now, go have fun! :thumbsup:


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## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

i use cork under all my track. weather it is regular bedding or a sheet.

i do not ballast tho.


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## Dr Bob (Dec 31, 2013)

WOW! Lots of good advice here! Thanks.

I am thinking I will go with cork roadbed under my mainline and passing sidings (Thanks Don for the terminology) and sheet cork under the yard and spur track. I was in Home Depot and checked out the rolls of cork as suggested and they look fine.

Thanks all.

Dr Bob :smilie_daumenpos:


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## spoil9 (Dec 24, 2008)

Dont waste time with the cork that has a sticky back. We tried it on our Lionel/HO layout we're building and it wasng sticky enough to hold. Tried adding white glue and it became just a big mess.


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## FRED On Board (Jan 2, 2014)

Dr Bob said:


> WOW! Lots of good advice here! Thanks.
> 
> I am thinking I will go with cork roadbed under my mainline and passing sidings (Thanks Don for the terminology) and sheet cork under the yard and spur track. I was in Home Depot and checked out the rolls of cork as suggested and they look fine.


I use Elmer's or Titebond yellow woodworking glue, thinned with tap water to glue the commercial cork roadbed and the cork sheets as those above have described it...I've never had occasion to use anything that has a pre-adhesive backing...The thinned glue is about as thick as latex wall paint and put down sparingly (as in thinly applied) but continuous in coverage about three or four lineal feet (or less) at a time using a 2-inch wide arts-and-crafts type foam roller...The roadbed is then weighted down with a number of hardcover books simply laid across the top for about an hour or if you are using homasote or styrofoam as a benchwork cover, then you can use bulletin board pushpins as maybe needed in some locations, as well.

By the way, in a reply to another post of yours about which track code to choose, I made no mention of transitions from mainline to industrial and yard spurs or sidings, but the cork roadbed once in position does sand really well with grade 60 paper as mentioned in an earlier posting and then maybe a touch-up here 'n there with grade 100...I use a shop vac fitted with a snorkle type hose to capture the cork dust as I sand or you can sweep it up afterwards with a brush and make use of it as a component of ground cover or other landscaping materials...The transitions achieved from mainline to spurs and industrial sidings really do look quite prototypical in profile to those I've seen in a great many locations.  

FWIW

Bruce /FRED On Board
ATSF, BN, SP, UP


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

spoil9 said:


> Dont waste time with the cork that has a sticky back. We tried it on our Lionel/HO layout we're building and it wasng sticky enough to hold. Tried adding white glue and it became just a big mess.


It is quite breakable also. I didn't like working with it. Did end up
using it for ashphalt streets. Barely passes muster.

Don


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