# Aluminum Car Purchase 600, 61,62,63



## C100

Good Morning, Group.
I was a able to pick up a nice set(my opinion) of aluminum passenger cars, #'s 660, 61, 62, 63. I need to replace the silhouettes and change the link couplers to knuckle couplers. I have already redone the wiring for the light sockets on two cars, and will do the other two to save grief later. I tried to use an iron under a towel to flatten the silhouettes to reuse them, but that is not working out too well. Is there a better way to reuse these? Is there a simple way to slide the chassis off without removing one of the trucks??(how hard is that?) I will be ordering knuckle couplers, do you take a Dremel tool to cut the pin on the link coupler? If all else fails, I will order car specific silhouettes with the couplers. Any advice on the veterans who have been down this road will be appreciated. These cars maybe because of the weight, do not roll that easy. I'll try lubing after I polish the electrical pick up wheels.

Fred in Massachusetts


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## Big Ed

Might be something in here that will help a little.

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=2768

Reckers (the OP) is MIA so you can't get any info from him, I don't know much about Flyers but thought while your waiting for a reply something might help you out in that thread, check it out.

Post some pictures as you go along, I love those old aluminum cars.:thumbsup:
The silhouettes? I think they make replacements.
I know they do for Lionel's, I think there is a thread on silhouettes somewhere in the forum too, it might be in the O section, but you can apply it to S too.


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## Charger

Hello

You spread the lower half of the cars to "drop" the floor out.
A little difficult but not hard.
There is no need to remove any of the trucks

For the windows. There are far more learned souls here who have very good advice.
However, what I did recently was to use a hair dryer to "soften" the silhouettes, then quickly place them under a dictionary (large heavy book!!).
I did this a couple of times and they flattended out reasonably well.

I used "Peek", a paste for cleaning metal. Any other such product will work to clean the aluminum bodies. Mine came out nice with a great shine! 

Good Luck
Charger


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## Aflyer

Fred,
Hi, I think these Aluminum cars are a really easy and fun restoration. 

I have had great results with the bodies using an Aluminum car wheel polish. If you have scratches they can be removed first using sand paper. Start with as fine as you can, and finish with very fine sandpaper, like 600 grit wet or dry.

For the window silhouettes I first washed mine in dishwashing soap. I then after rinsing under hot water rolled them up into a coil, kind of like a tape measure. I hold that roll by placing a paper clip around it, and again run it under hot water. Let it cool and dry for a little while, then unroll the coil and slide it back in to the body.

It worked well for me.

Good luck,
George


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## flyernut

To remove the chassis just slide it off at one end. It's hard but doable. No need to remove the trucks. For the silhouettes, just order new ones from PortLines. They're cheap enough, and look really nice when done. I've done around 9 of these cars in the past year.. To shine up the body, use a sandpaper that will take out the scratches, then keep using a finer grade of paper. I hand buff them with #7 aluminum polishing paste. mothers will work but it's twice as much.


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## Rich_Trains

Hi Fred,

With four of them you may want to purchase the spreader tool ($12.50) from Portlines Hobby. It saves possible damage to the skirts when trying to get the bottom out. The cars roll much better with some graphite applied.

As flyernut, mentioned Portlines has replacement silhouettes for the ones you can't restore. I love the aluminum cars. I first bought the 660, 662 and 663 at a show-all had the end skirts missing but were clean otherwise. I finally was able to get some intact 660, 662, and 663 from a club member. Just recently i was able to acquire a 661 from a show. It needs some cleaning up and there is some pitting so I will be trying fn's technique on the pitting.

Rich


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Flyernut has offered the best advice -- if it has to do with these aluminum coaches, he IS the master. The reason I know, is that he has cornered the market on them and restored every one he obtained to beautiful shape. What baffles me is how you found some before he did??


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## flyernut

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> Flyernut has offered the best advice -- if it has to do with these aluminum coaches, he IS the master. The reason I know, is that he has cornered the market on them and restored every one he obtained to beautiful shape. What baffles me is how you found some before he did??


Ya gotta be quick on the draw, pardner!!... I'll start with a 200 grit sandpaper and then go to a 400, 600, and so on, removing the scratches made from the previous sandpaper. It's a long process, but worth it. I'll even go as high as 2000 or higher, as this paper will actually polish the metal. A nice hand buffing, (or a buffing wheel on a stand), does the trick. A quick bath, and it's back on the rails.ONE QUICK TIP!!!.. If you have to adjust the couplers, be wary!!! If you adjust them too high up by bending the tongue, the tongue of the coupler will ground out against the sides of the skirt, when the car is in a curve, causing sparks, loss of power, and really poor running!! Now don't ask me how I know this.....


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Did I mention he is the master??


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## flyernut

A quick look at the "fleet". I have 3 chrome plastic cars on the K335. My other cars are packed away for now.


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## flyernut

.....................


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Dontcha just love the reflection of the tower in the roof of that 660 coach?

Flyernut is a proud papa....looking real nice there guy!!


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## flyernut

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> Dontcha just love the reflection of the tower in the roof of that 660 coach?
> 
> Flyernut is a proud papa....looking real nice there guy!!


How about that dinosaur in the suit ready to attack??


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Sorry -- missed it. My eyes were focused on the shimmering coaches.....


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## Aflyer

Fred,
As we read here Flyernut is the master, but it appears he uses the same methods I do on the Aluminum body's.

As far as replacing the windows, I have had to do that on one of mine, but only because I think it was a replacement window. It cleaned up but was to narrow to stay tight in the channel.
All the rest of them all cleaned up very well. And the hot water trick takes the curl out of the window so it fits tight in the channel and lays flat.

I attached a couple of photos for all to check out, the spots on the front of the 662 are from the camera. These are a couple years old, maybe I should do some new ones!

Good luck with your project,
Aflyer


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## flyernut

Very, very nice!!! I use basic auto-body techniques while working with my cars. I like those windows, they cleaned up very nicely.I bought my first 3-car set at a train show for $100 bucks, and haven't looked back since... Nice job!! I relinquish my "master" title to you, lol.


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## Aflyer

Flyernut,
Oh I don't think I get the master title, I till have a lot to learn. But I do really enjoy cleaning up these aluminum cars. I think I have done 5 of them, and have only found one bad set of widow's as stated above.

I bought another set and was disappointed, they were in better shape when they arrived than the pictures showed, LOL. But I will still get to cleaning them up and giving them a good polishing.

Keep the photo's flowing, and I like your basic auto body shop analogy. 

Aflyer


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## Nuttin But Flyer

When you guys use the sandpapering technique, do you work the entire car, even the ribbed sections? Or do you concentrate only on the smooth sections?


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Now I see the dinosaur -- I think he's after that pink ranch house. Didn't Jon Bon Jovi do a song about Lil Pink Houses?


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## Aflyer

Nuttin But Flyer,
I have done some work with sandpaper on the ribbed sections, to remove scratches. But haven't had any badly damaged ones. 
Most of the big scratches seem to be in the roof section, where as you said it is smooth.
We will see what experience FlyerNut has had with the ribbed side sections of his cars.
Aflyer


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Yea, I have to figure trying to sand out any scratches in the ribbed areas would be difficult at best to nearly impossible. Plus in the ribbed area, the scratches are probably hard to see anyway.

How about along the window area where it is smooth -- do that with sandpaper?


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## flyernut

Ok boys, here the scoop.... I usually just hand buff the ribbed sides. Usually there aren't any scratches there, and if there are, they tend to "disappear" because of the ribs. Actually, the raised ribs polish up easily, giving the car a nice, clean look. I tend to concentrate on the roofs, as that's where the "hook" is! And adding a new vista dome lens from PortLines really dresses up the old girls!! After the cars are so pretty with the polishing, I hate to put a old, yellow dome back on..


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Sounds like a plan....thanks for the particulars.


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## C100

*Update on Aluminum Car Purchase*

As my project moves along on these aluminum cars, I thought I would give a quick update and possibly a tip and one concern. I was able to slide the chassis from the body by spreading the body using a painter's paddle I cut slightly wider than the body. I inserted two of these and gave them a twist. This spread the body and I removed and reinstalled these pieces as I was sliding the chassis along. This was cheap, simple and did not leave any marks. This paddle is the stirring stick you get when you buy a gallon of paint. The concern I have is that I rewired the light sockets with a stranded 22 gauge wire that may be too stiff and interfere with the truck swivel? The old wiring is very thin stranded with a fabric cover. I am not sure if this is available at a hobby store or maybe Radio Shack. I bought some items from Doug Peck, who is also very helpful; I will install those items after I get things polished up. Thanks for all the replies.

Fred in Massachusetts


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## flyernut

C100 said:


> As my project moves along on these aluminum cars, I thought I would give a quick update and possibly a tip and one concern. I was able to slide the chassis from the body by spreading the body using a painter's paddle I cut slightly wider than the body. I inserted two of these and gave them a twist. This spread the body and I removed and reinstalled these pieces as I was sliding the chassis along. This was cheap, simple and did not leave any marks. This paddle is the stirring stick you get when you buy a gallon of paint. The concern I have is that I rewired the light sockets with a stranded 22 gauge wire that may be too stiff and interfere with the truck swivel? The old wiring is very thin stranded with a fabric cover. I am not sure if this is available at a hobby store or maybe Radio Shack. I bought some items from Doug Peck, who is also very helpful; I will install those items after I get things polished up. Thanks for all the replies.
> 
> Fred in Massachusetts


I use 24 gauge super-flex wire, available at any good hobby shop.


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## JMedwick

Reviving this old thread for some advice. I have 662 observation car with some minor scrapes and pitting on the top. I tried to use some 2000 grit sandpaper (by hand) on the top to get these out, but it seems to have left the finish far fuller than I anticipated. Any suggestions on how to move from here to a mirror like shine?


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## flyernut

JMedwick said:


> Reviving this old thread for some advice. I have 662 observation car with some minor scrapes and pitting on the top. I tried to use some 2000 grit sandpaper (by hand) on the top to get these out, but it seems to have left the finish far fuller than I anticipated. Any suggestions on how to move from here to a mirror like shine?


Use some aluminum polish on the car, and/or if you have a buffing wheel at home, use it. I gave a few of my al. cars to a buddy and he put them on a 6" buffing wheel.. Man they shine!!!!


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## JMedwick

I don’t have a buffing wheel, but would one of those Dremel polishing cloths work?


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## Mikeh49

I picked this info up from a bike forum, have not tried it, but looks reasonable. The various color scotchbrite pads are probably from an auto parts/paint store.



> On a related note, it is possible to get a satin finish on bare aluminum, which I like a lot as it more closely resembles the finish of many clear anodized aluminum bike components. Use progressively finer grits of Scotchbrite pads, moving from maroon to blue to yellow. For the final burnishing with yellow pad, lubricate it with a good quality liquid carnauba wax.


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## flyernut

JMedwick said:


> I don’t have a buffing wheel, but would one of those Dremel polishing cloths work?


If I have to do it by hand, I use one of those red mechanics cloths.


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## Riggzie

flyernut said:


> A quick look at the "fleet". I have 3 chrome plastic cars on the K335. My other cars are packed away for now.


that is sweet looking!!!!! :smilie_daumenpos:

but bet it takes a lot of time to keep them all chrome polished!!! :cheeky4:


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## JMedwick

Great advice on this forum as always. 662 turned out great with a mirror like finish by using 2000 grit sand paper, aluminum polish, and a soft cloth.


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## cramden

JMedwick said:


> Great advice on this forum as always. 662 turned out great with a mirror like finish by using 2000 grit sand paper, aluminum polish, and a soft cloth.


Glad it worked out for you, how about a picture if possible. Strange that your post this AM didn't show in the new posts today.


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## JMedwick

Took me while to get back to this, but social isolation has a way of freeing up such time. Photo below. I love these 66x cars. They are the best.


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## JMedwick

Posted without the photo...


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## mopac

Wowie Zowie !!! They look nice. I don't have any of the metal cars. Hope to change
that some day.


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## AmFlyer

They look nice, the window inserts also look good. 
The aluminum cars need clean and lubricated axle ends to roll acceptably. The couplers are a bit more critical to adjust than other cars and the ones with the assist springs work better on uneven track and grade transitions.


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## dc57

flyernut said:


> Ya gotta be quick on the draw, pardner!!... I'll start with a 200 grit sandpaper and then go to a 400, 600, and so on, removing the scratches made from the previous sandpaper. It's a long process, but worth it. I'll even go as high as 2000 or higher, as this paper will actually polish the metal. A nice hand buffing, (or a buffing wheel on a stand), does the trick. A quick bath, and it's back on the rails.ONE QUICK TIP!!!.. If you have to adjust the couplers, be wary!!! If you adjust them too high up by bending the tongue, the tongue of the coupler will ground out against the sides of the skirt, when the car is in a curve, causing sparks, loss of power, and really poor running!! Now don't ask me how I know this.....


Hi flyernut!

your cars look beautiful! Since you mentioned the couplers, I have a quick question. What do you recommend to keep them from uncoupling? You mention bending the tongues. Is there a trick to that? Right now I have small rubber bands around my couplers to keep the cars together as they go around the track.

Thanks
Don


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## flyernut

dc57 said:


> Hi flyernut!
> 
> your cars look beautiful! Since you mentioned the couplers, I have a quick question. What do you recommend to keep them from uncoupling? You mention bending the tongues. Is there a trick to that? Right now I have small rubber bands around my couplers to keep the cars together as they go around the track.
> 
> Thanks
> Don


Hi Don.. The link couplers will work but they have to be a certain distance from the top of the rail. I saw a diagram with the correct measurement but I can't seem to find it anywhere. They also have to move VERY freely. If I can't get them to work, I'll put repo couplers on them.


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## dc57

Thank you Loren.


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## cramden

The correct measurement for both link and knuckle couplers is 1/32" from the top of the rail to the bottom of the round weight on link couplers or the bottom of the weight on the knuckle couplers. If you have a flat piece of metal or plastic that thickness it makes it easier to adjust. If not, you can eyeball it and generally it will work. On the link coupler, make sure that the coupler bar is horizontal to the track.
I have also used small rubber bands at times for linkers that don't want to cooperate. The aluminum cars are heavy and seem to be the most troublesome at times.


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## cramden

JMedwick, your cars came out looking like new. Nice job, now I feel that I have to get mine down from the display shelf and polish them!


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## dc57

Thank you very much, cramden!


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## JMedwick

Thanks Cramden. Now I am on the lookout for the 663 car so I complete the set. That said, I ran my 356 to try and pull all three (660-662) and it was hard for the engine at times (some spinning drive wheels at first and then a warm engine when I was done running for 20 or so minutes). Gotta get my 293 with the pul-more wheels running to make it a little easier.


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## cramden

That's why Gilbert only sold 3 aluminum cars in any of the catalogued sets and either used a twin motor PA (360) or a 334DC Northern. That's also why they went to plastic passenger cars as soon as they could. The 661 coach was only available as a separate sale item, it wasn't part of any set.


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## AmFlyer

It is just as Cramden says. The 356 has a plastic shell, it is not heavy enough to pull three aluminum cars. Use a 332AC with the long, heavy die cast shell. 322AC's and 312AC's also work well. The 290 will pull them but a 282 will struggle since it has a plastic boiler with no traction tires.
Any engine with PullMore will work. If you really like long passenger trains get the S gauge Big Boy. It will pull a dozen of them up a 2% grade!


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## flyernut

Aflyer said:


> Fred,
> As we read here Flyernut is the master, but it appears he uses the same methods I do on the Aluminum body's.
> 
> As far as replacing the windows, I have had to do that on one of mine, but only because I think it was a replacement window. It cleaned up but was to narrow to stay tight in the channel.
> All the rest of them all cleaned up very well. And the hot water trick takes the curl out of the window so it fits tight in the channel and lays flat.
> 
> I attached a couple of photos for all to check out, the spots on the front of the 662 are from the camera. These are a couple years old, maybe I should do some new ones!
> 
> Good luck with your project,
> Aflyer


Here's some of mine.. I have more plastic cars, silver, red stripe, blue stripe, green and red to fill a barn.


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