# Pikestuff the shop 541-0015



## mkj1955 (Jan 25, 2015)

Hello all, as you know I'm new to modeling. I've purchased The Shop (pikestuff) 541-0015 and the instructions that came in the new box are not to user friendly. I also have the distribution center 541-0010 with the same type instructions. Both are new, just a little liking in how to put together.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I think it is "the shop" that is on my "want" list. That's the one with the office attached
to one side? I don't have a pikestuff building yet so no help here.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

The Pikestuff kits are really intended for modellers that wish to adapt and 'kitbash', hence the sparse instructions. You might be better off starting with something like the Walthers Smalltown kits which give you step by step instructions.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Cycleops is right. Many manufacturers kits assume you already know what you're doing with kits and omit the (to them and their target market) obvious basics.

I've never done one of Pikestuff's, but I have build several "box of sticks and a plan" models. You may not think so (especially if you're the kind of person who likes a very regimented approach), but you probably can sit down and figure out what to do. In many cases, there isn't really a required order. I mean, you robably have to get the walls assembled before you do the roof, but things like windows and doors can be done whenever -- although if you intend to paint it, paint your windows first, then apply glazing.

I would second Cycleops's recommendation to get a few easy kits and do those first. In styrene, Walters Cornerstone kits are good because they're straightforward to assemble, but detailed enough to look good on even a hyper detailed layout. So are Atlas kits. Bachmann and Model Power are readily available in hobby shops and easy to assemble, but they might not pass muster for detail and sophistication. They would make good learning kits, even just to build for practice (not used on the layout). DPM (Design Preservation Models) from Woodland Scenics are nice kits, but their instrictions are a little less precise. They would make a good intermediate project. If you want to venture into wooden kits, start with ones that advertise easy assembly or tab and slot construction and avoid those labeled craftsman or craftsman quality, which require a lot more fine tuning from the builder.

You also might want to grab a couple of issues of Model Railroader Magazine and look at their articles on scratchbuilding or kitbashing structures. You probably won't find your particular kit, but the techniques are the same.


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Try taping the pieces together before you start gluing. Use scotch tape or masking tape. Once you know where the parts go then you can start with the glue. The first one is always the hardest and they get much easier as you go along. Pete


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

And use a small set square to make sure you get the walls at right angles. Once you have taped the basic structure together as suggested above you can then "paint" the liquid poly onto the joints (from the inside). Good luck.


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## Dr Bob (Dec 31, 2013)

I built a Pikestuff 2 stall engine facility. I have built several plastic kits so it was not too difficult. Most of the kit was in the desired colors for me so I did not paint much, but you want to do that first. 

The most challenging part was that the openings for the windows and doors were not cut out. On the back of the building panels there are indentations indicating where windows and doors are suggested, but you need to cut out the ones you want to use. The styrene in these kits is a softer design but fairly thick. It requires careful cutting with a sharp blade. I cut the opening on the smaller side then carefully made them larger for each window and door. It came out fine. 

Dr Bob


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

And lets have some pictures of all this work. Pete


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

I like the Pikestuff kits. Lay the parts out in matching pairs/parts. You'll see wall (short and long) and roof parts mainly.

Take a look at the backside of the walls and figure out which doors you want. Check to see how many doors are provided in the kit before you cut out too many, or plan on picking up extra doors.

I build the engine house with one of the doors partway open and will have a welder working just inside the door eventually. (like getting ventilation)

The other is a local firehouse.


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Both are nice looking buildings.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

sstlaure said:


> I like the Pikestuff kits. Lay the parts out in matching pairs/parts. You'll see wall (short and long) and roof parts mainly.
> 
> I build the engine house with one of the doors partway open and will have a welder working just inside the door eventually. (like getting ventilation)


Yes, just approach it logically and all will become self evident as to what goes where.

You can really bring these buildings to life with little details like figures and equipment arranged to tell a story.


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## Dr Bob (Dec 31, 2013)

sstlaure: What did you use for the foundation and floor for your engine house? It looks great!

Dr Bob


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Dr Bob said:


> sstlaure: What did you use for the foundation and floor for your engine house? It looks great!
> 
> Dr Bob


Balsawood (I believe) It was the easiest way to drop the tracks down inside something that looked like a pit giving workers elevated access to the engine. I'll run some maintenance scaffolds down the middle, desks, tools, etc. eventually.


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## mkj1955 (Jan 25, 2015)

Thank you all for your help!


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