# My First Make Over 1684



## joe7034 (Feb 3, 2011)

Here is what I have started so far.. Reading all of the posts and checking out the pictures have been a huge help, thanks to all who have posted them.

I just wish I could get the photo's to post instead of the links, but I am working on that

Joe

ps the train is not called gloria, the dog is, and God forbid I loose the pictures of the dog that were on the camera, When the Queen (wife) is happy the land (me) is happy!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

To get the actual picture here, right click on a picture link and select *Copy Shortcut*. Next, click on the







icon at the top of the reply box and paste that shortcut in the box. The picture will appear.

Here's a sample...


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Joe,

Nice strip job! How did you like the Citristrip product?

After basic sripping, I'm a big fan of using a Dremel stainless steel brush to buff out the metal, and remove any remaining paint residual bits. If you have a Dremel, give it a shot. Dremel brush #530.

Any pics of the motor?

This is our forum's first 1684 thread. I'd love to see you track the project here in detail.

Cheers,

TJ

---

Another one of Joe's pics, above ...


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I think Gloria would be a nice name for a Loco.

My mother, sister and niece and cousin are Gloria.

What new color will it be?

Yes lets see the powerhouse to it.


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## joe7034 (Feb 3, 2011)

The stripper worked really well, I used a paint brush and then stuffed it into a plastic bag, to help keep it wet. I used a steel bristle brush and some water. I will post some motor pictures soon. I was thinking a dark green on the bottom and a black boiler, or some combination of the 2.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Thinking ahead, you might want to consider Woodland Scenics dry-rub letters to retag the cab numbers ... their MG712 sheet is a nice match. Sheet has several font sizes:

http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/Item/MG712/page/10

TJ


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## lionellines (May 18, 2011)

What's up with that huge hole in the boiler shell where the front of the railing is supposed to go?


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

That is to peek inside to see the smoke unit.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

If it was a modern loco, I'd have suggested it was for the insulator for the TMCC antenna, but I'm not sure what goes there.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> If it was a modern loco, I'd have suggested it was for the insulator for the TMCC antenna, but I'm not sure what goes there.



That hole is for the hand rail, but it is not supposed to be that big.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, I know it's for the handrail, for TMCC locomotives, there is a press-in insulator there to use the handrail as an antenna, so they have a bigger hole.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Well, I know it's for the handrail, for TMCC locomotives, there is a press-in insulator there to use the handrail as an antenna, so they have a bigger hole.


I didn't know that. Maybe he is custom fitting one for the old Loco?


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## joe7034 (Feb 3, 2011)

I hope this worked, the railing screws into and double headed screw on the inside of the engine, thats why the hole is so big, I thought it was odd when I was taking it apart. You can see the screw in the middle of the 2 railings above. From left to right it's the lense for the light then the railing screw holder

joe


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## lionellines (May 18, 2011)

That's very odd. I've never seen one like that before, and a quick check of Ebay photos did not turn up any like the one shown above. All have a regular sized hole for the wire railing.

Regardless, these locos with this certain type of motor were known as precursors to the Scouts. My opinion is that they were way better than the Scouts and are what the Scouts could have and should have been. They run smooth and reliably, and are easy to work on.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Joe,

Is that large-hole setup on the left side of the shell, only? Or does the same things exist on the right side???

Very interesting to see "unusual" fitting details like this on an old Lionel. Do you guys think this was an original setup, or some former-owner retrofit???

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'm guessing some former owner had something in mind. Hard to believe there would be a one-off mod like that.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I would like to see it before it was removed.

A rail normally has three holes to a side. Four if it goes into a cab.

It would be easy to seal it up with epoxy and hide it.


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## joe7034 (Feb 3, 2011)

I don't know if it is the angle of the camera or I was to close when I took the pictures, but looking at the engine last night the hole dose not look that big, it is bigger than the support holes, but not as big as it looks above. Waiting for the primer to dry and I will post some more pictures
joe


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Is the hole the same on both sides?


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## joe7034 (Feb 3, 2011)

Yes they are the same size, and show no sign of being drilled to make larger
joe


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'll defer to the restoration experts here, hard to believe someone did this after the fact, but who knows.

I guess the important part is, will the railing go on and look good when you're done? If so, no problem.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

joe7034 said:


> I don't know if it is the angle of the camera or I was to close when I took the pictures, but looking at the engine last night the hole dose not look that big, it is bigger than the support holes, but not as big as it looks above. Waiting for the primer to dry and I will post some more pictures
> joe



It sure looks a lot bigger then the others?

I don't think the angle or camera has anything to do with it.


It is bigger by the looks of it, more then double then the others.


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## joe7034 (Feb 3, 2011)

Here it is primed and ready for paint


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Joe,

Looks nice, crisp. Good work.

I usually rub my primed locos down with a grey (fine) ScotchBrite pad and then a denatured alcohol wipe prior to topcoat painting. The ScotchBrite tends to even out the primer coat a bit, removes any micro dust adhered to the primer, etc.

Looking forward to your next steps!

TJ


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## joe7034 (Feb 3, 2011)

*99% Done*

Well here she is.. about 99% done, just have to number or letter her, I have not figured out which one yet, either 1684 or USMC.


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## joe7034 (Feb 3, 2011)

Oh and by the way, I picked up another 1684 on ebay and it arrived today, just the shell, and everyone is right, sort of. The hole in front is definately larger on my orignal one than the one I just picked up, but the railing on the first is twice as wide as the new one, when I get her apart I will post the pictures

Joe


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Looks great, it's a no-brainer, USMC! 

FWIW, you'd want a number as well, everything the military has is numbered.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Joe,

Looks fabulous. I like the military / USMC paint scheme. Couple of questions ...

1. It looks like you painted the drive wheels military green. I assume you didn't paint the actual rolling portion of the wheels, such that you have OK electrical contact with the rails?

2. What black paint did you use? I like its matte finish.

3. Might you consider adding two flags flown on small poles mounted to the front fender/cowcatcher ... one American flag, and one USMC flag? Could be a nice touch!

Enjoy!

TJ


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## joe7034 (Feb 3, 2011)

TJ,
I used a flat black spray paint from an auto store, I'll post the exact one when I get home. Like you I had trouble getting the inside of the drive wheels clean, first I just the painted the rims and the spokes, it only made it look worse, so I filled in the inside and painted the out portion of the drive wheels only. Thanks for the flag idea, I think I will head to hobby shop this weekend and try and find some flags.

Joe


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

You can make flags.

I use paint to size a picture then print. With a toothpick and some Mod Podge to hold it you got it!

A school project










A playset










Or a sign










Make the image a reverse and wrap it around to glue the two sides together.

I like the engine! Well Done!:thumbsup: I didn't know too much about the 1684 before this thread!


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*A better Example*

I tried an example. 

First get a flag picture.
Under edit I used cut after i formed a square or frame around the the flag.

Then I started a new image and used paste twice. You have to move the second paste to the right.

Well, I was going great until I came to "invert".
Maybe Paint cannot do both sides of a flag.

Here is my example so far.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Joe,
Print this up. cut the 2 sides out and they should overlap nicely. This will give your flag a realistic waving look. If you like it, I will make you matching american flag for the other side.








-Art


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Art,

I've done folded paper flags before ... mostly on ship models. But I've always started with rectangular, flat images, and then tried to bend/twist them to make them look like a real, flapping flag. It never quite looks real ... the paper doesn't "drape" like real cloth.

That said, I like your idea ... using an image of an already-draped flag. Clever!

TJ


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

tjcruiser said:


> Art,
> 
> I've done folded paper flags before ... mostly on ship models. But I've always started with rectangular, flat images, and then tried to bend/twist them to make them look like a real, flapping flag. It never quite looks real ... the paper doesn't "drape" like real cloth.
> 
> ...


Well TJ, I never "tried" it either, but if I was gonna try this is how I would do it. Photoshop is my FRIEND.
I took a few minutes to make a US flag to go with the USMC one:








-Art


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Thanks Art. :thumbsup: 

They look Great.

I rarely use Paint shop pro. I doesn't come easy for me. I did the poster that way.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

You're welcome Tman,
I think they will look "sweet" on that fancy new loco of Joe's. If anyone needs some photoshop stuff done I am pretty handy with it and I work for free LOL.
-Art


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Joe,
If you try printing these to scale size and they look too blurry (pixelated) let me know. I may be able to convert them to vector format using Illustrator so that they maintain some of their resolution.
-Art


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Joe it looks great.:thumbsup:

Now.......do you have a small detail brush to paint the inside of the cab?

That would look sharp. I all ways wanted to do that.


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## joe7034 (Feb 3, 2011)

First all thanks for all the help, I will try and print the flags and let you know what happens, The black paint was Krylon flat balck, the stripper works well with tin also, I just stripped down a 1689 tender that I am going to use with the engine, (black and green). Ed, I was thinking of doing that, but I need to get alot better with a paint brush first, maybe down the road a bit I will give it a try. I will post some more pictures when Iam done with the tender

joe


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

joe7034 said:


> The black paint was Krylon flat balck ...


Thanks for the info!

TJ


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## joe7034 (Feb 3, 2011)

*Train and tender*

Here is the almost completed train and tender, I need to order some military decales, my hobby store dose not carry decales , and then I should be done. (this one  )














































looks like I have to tighen up the back of the roof on the tender...


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

That's an excellent paint job, but I agree the tender needs a "tightening".  You do good work. :thumbsup:


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Boy, I really like that flat black. I recently repainted a 1688 in Krylon satin black, but to my dismay, the Krylon satin is nearly as glossy as the Krylon gloss ... imperceivable difference between the two. Too shiny for my taste.

You're convincing me all the more to try flat black on my next victim.

Your tender looks great. Nice team!

TJ


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## joe7034 (Feb 3, 2011)

*End of Build One*

Well here it is the finished project........


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## joe7034 (Feb 3, 2011)

*my next project*

I think this is what I will work on next, but that is for another thread 


























I'm thinking keeping it black and adding some white walls, maybe!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Looks good, but I have a suggestion for your photos.

Use brighter light ambient and no flash, you're washing out most of the detail.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Hey ... a 1688! I just restored one, and have another one on the workbench right now. It looks to me like yours is one of the later-generation 1688's ... e-unit slot well aft on the shell, and plastic-bottomed motor?

Enjoy!

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Just don't do what TJ did and try to bent the metal of that 1688 shell!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Looks great Joe,:thumbsup: 

I think the Marine Corp emblem would look nice on the steam chest too.:thumbsup:
Maybe a decal if you can find one.


Question for all.
Has anyone ever painted the running rods on their O gauge Loco rebuild?


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

big ed said:


> Question for all.
> Has anyone ever painted the running rods on their O gauge Loco rebuild?


Ed,

I've thought about it, but haven't gone that route yet. The chromed (or nickel plate?) drive rods on most of my prewar redos have had some level of rust. So far, I've been able to clean them up moderately well with a quick dip in diluted muriatic acid (just 30 seconds or so), and then a stainless Dremel brush buff. I did resort to replacing the drive rods with repros on one or two locos.

However ... if one did attemp to repaint the rusty old chrome (nickel?) drive rods, what color do you think would be OK ???

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'd paint them gloss silver, make then as close to what they were.


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