# Its a start...



## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

I want to get my moving buildings in and in the space i have. will build a table later. just diguring out a visual layout. diggin it...


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

Looks like a good start to me.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

2 more switches ( turnouts) in the middle you would be able to change direction.
Edit, I just looked again maybe not?

Edit again,
4 more and a crossover would do it.


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

Big Ed said:


> 2 more switches ( turnouts) in the middle you would be able to change direction.
> Edit, I just looked again maybe not?
> 
> Edit again,
> 4 more and a crossover would do it.


hmm i gotta figure that one out. i used more turnouts for other things but can remove it.

currently looks like this and enough track to double it...

track is beat but works...


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

so im guessing powering this much track takes a big transformer. ive seen massive layouts... 
my zw 250 watt looked like my train wasnt going as fast...


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Clean the track up, I have more track out then that and my Z powers it fine.

With your sidings the way the track is set up you will only be able to BACK into two of them.

See what I mean?


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

Big Ed said:


> 2 more switches ( turnouts) in the middle you would be able to change direction.
> Edit, I just looked again maybe not?
> 
> Edit again,
> 4 more and a crossover would do it.



gotcha. i gotta take all turnouts but 1 apart. dont change on power. been sittin since 1985...lol

i have 4x manual switches. maybe sellem and buy more 022s...


so i gotcha...


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

wait.. i dont see how that gets me goin other way...


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Riggzie said:


> wait.. i dont see how that gets me goin other way...


It won't huh?
I have a new paint program and have to figure out how it works,

The way you have all your switches set up you will only be able to go one way.
You have to change the 2 top ones and the 2 bottom ones I think.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

This would work, use your finger as the train.
It will run both ways now.


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

lol yer right thx


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Oh the wonders of 3 rail trains...a double crossover
creating two reverse loops and there's not one
need of a reverse loop controller. Great fun. 
Us DCC HO'ers envy you.

But I worry about your locos sucking lint into their
gears from that beautiful carpeting. Be sure to check
them from time to time. Do your self a favor and get the
tracks mounted on a hard base when you can.

Don


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

DonR said:


> Oh the wonders of 3 rail trains...a double crossover
> creating two reverse loops and there's not one
> need of a reverse loop controller. Great fun.
> Us DCC HO'ers envy you.
> ...


lol..
my ho flex track showed up today. doin this setup first then move to ho in months...


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## ErnestHouse (Sep 6, 2015)

Maybe I'm wrong. I only see one power hookup. No way you will get good power in all sections. That rusty piece at the bottom is disgusting. 

Rule of thumb is a power drop every 6-8 feet of linear track. Isolate each segment using insulating pins.


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

ErnestHouse said:


> Maybe I'm wrong. I only see one power hookup. No way you will get good power in all sections. That rusty piece at the bottom is disgusting.
> 
> Rule of thumb is a power drop every 6-8 feet of linear track. Isolate each segment using insulating pins.


which track piece looks basty? these were very rusty. got more cleaning to do.

ok makes sense about power drops. this layout is a physical view for me. im a see it guy. Drawing on paper wont do me any good.

ive still gotta do the track reversal part ..tear it all down and do a table.

appreciate the comments/notes...


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

ErnestHouse said:


> Rule of thumb is a power drop every 6-8 feet of linear track. Isolate each segment using insulating pins.


so do i replace all 3 with insulating pins? and then more of those power clips or???
thx. guess ill start getting that stuff to test my layout before i build a table.


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

ok got it in... sweet. had to use 2x manual turnouts that I put on the outter loops so I can manually operate them.... so now i have to find 2 more 022s. 


whatcha think? think im gonna rest on this...


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I think you ought to move the UCS track to a different spot?

Where you have your power clip hooked up, run wire to the other side against the wall by the electric plug and put another power clip back there.
You should have enough power for all

I would try it with just the one clip first.


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## ErnestHouse (Sep 6, 2015)

Riggzie said:


> which track piece looks rusty? these were very rusty. got more cleaning to do. .... so do i replace all 3 with insulating pins? and then more of those power clips?


Yes all three. Search on "Power Drops" in the O-scale section of the forum for more about power drops. There are various funky problems that creep up simply due to lack of power or poor track conductivity. I'd over engineer power every day all day long.


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

ErnestHouse said:


> Riggzie said:
> 
> 
> > which track piece looks rusty? these were very rusty. got more cleaning to do. .... so do i replace all 3 with insulating pins? and then more of those power clips?
> ...


yeah those are pretty eye sore.. other than that..they work. seem fine.

ahhh power drops. i was searching various terms like power block... power for big layouts... and the sort. will check that one now


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

ok so ive got it all laid out in anyrail - need to pay for full version, once I get something sold on ebay for $60...

this will do for now.
but now I can take it all apart and start to build a table.

then im going to get a 6" buffing wheel for my bench grinder and see if that can do well on cleaning track/loco wheels/car wheels...
gonna be a bit as the table wont be cheap and wife will say something. LOL...


Track
14062, 0 Lionel 0, Left turnout 10". (remote)	5
14063, 0 Lionel 0, Right turnout 10". (remote)	5
65500, 0 Lionel 0, Straight 10".	44
65501, 0 Lionel 0, Curve 31", angle 45º	14
65540, 0 Lionel 0, Crossing 8 5/16".	1

Total track length:	68'-7 1/4"


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

just used traxeditor.com and wow easy and looks good.
im doing basics so it works... and no track piece limitation!!!!


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## ErnestHouse (Sep 6, 2015)

Riggzie said:


> yeah those are pretty eye sore.. other than that..they work. seem fine.
> 
> ahhh power drops. i was searching various terms like power block... power for big layouts... and the sort. will check that one now


Track is not work or doesn't work. It's how well does it transmit voltage when it does "work". Rusty pins and track make for higher loss of voltage. That means less power on the other side of that piece of track. Rinse and repeat.


Another term is power districts.


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

so i added a power connector to far back row and far left. made it better but i didnt use the plastic/nylon pins... just supply power to all 3. nothing trips..all runs. so my question.. why does it matter to segregate power blocks? 
Im just trying to learn and understand... 
thx


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

No, however if it does short, its harder to isolate. Your lucky, with 3 rail there are no special reversers needed!


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

Lemonhawk said:


> No, however if it does short, its harder to isolate. Your lucky, with 3 rail there are no special reversers needed!


appreciate it. im not trying to be difficult. may come naturally though!!! HAH..

anywho.. so if I buy isolation pins and I only do center.. that's all that is needed?

so I could break up my sections into 6 from what im seeing.

fwiw - I am having an issue. up around the turnaround, I think the 022's have the isolation pins in the wrong spot. gonna have to google that... when I have that top section added, my train doesn't want to move on closest track at all. once I disconnect that section, boom train runs....

so this look about right then?

I will run both hot to center and common to 1 outside rail - just like the utc has it...

light green/yellow is showing tracks cut - nylon pins...


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## Jackets (Jan 24, 2020)

Here is that layout in Anyrail. 

I also added some extra parts that may or may not let you adjust the layout. From my tinkering a few weeks ago it seemed that if i started with more then 50 i was fine, i could not add more only use what was provided. 

I also used some 65523 40" parts in place of 65500 10" parts 

Also note that these parts do no line up perfectly on the second oval in the "X" i had to set a 1/8" and 5* tolerance to make them link. 



I will point out that in the second oval (right side) the 2 spurs off the "X" are not accessible as it is. 


Can you snap a picture or 2 of the track part in the oval with the crossover "X" and a couple of the platforms the boxcars are on. They look interesting but are hard to see well in the current pictures

Cheers,
Joe


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

Jackets said:


> Here is that layout in Anyrail.
> 
> I also added some extra parts that may or may not let you adjust the layout. From my tinkering a few weeks ago it seemed that if i started with more then 50 i was fine, i could not add more only use what was provided.


sweet..thx gonna check it out...



> I also used some 65523 40" parts in place of 65500 10" parts


yeah I was only using what I physically have as im going to tear it all apart and stack everything up and then can know what I had originally...




> Also note that these parts do no line up perfectly on the second oval in the "X" i had to set a 1/8" and 5* tolerance to make them link.


interesting



> I will point out that in the second oval (right side) the 2 spurs off the "X" are not accessible as it is.


not following this... help me understand better?




> Can you snap a picture or 2 of the track part in the oval with the crossover "X" and a couple of the platforms the boxcars are on. They look interesting but are hard to see well in the current pictures
> 
> Cheers,
> Joe


I will take some pics of the X.. think I have it on my phone... 

not sure what you mean of the platforms the boxcars are on.. it is just an 022 track where 10" pieces and a curve are connected...


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

this??


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## Jackets (Jan 24, 2020)

I have attached 2 images, one showing the platform and ramp.

The other making out the track sections you won't be able to drive a train onto from the rest of the layout.


As for the 40/10" parts its a workaround for the 50 part limit, 4 40's saves you 12 parts to use else where. 

Joe

Edit: The misalignment issue in Anyrail is that it keeps things EXACTLY in line, something that can be fudged with on a layouy


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

Jackets said:


> I have attached 2 images, one showing the platform and ramp.
> 
> The other making out the track sections you won't be able to drive a train onto from the rest of the layout.
> 
> ...


ahh gotcha….

so pic 1... the section of track on far right.. when I was using anyrail, I had to put an X in for it to align and allow tracks to join. anything else and it was off by some... so I just said for giggles ill put dummy tracks on the area you see you will never get too... not an oversite.. but a possible in future add more 022 to get to it... like on the other side...



pic 2.. 

cattle carts on left, are not actually on the track yet. I am still learning and got to see how to hook them up and decide if I even want to keep them. they are not worth anything so it would be something to use for the hell of it. BUT... I need to learn how to connect it, then get them working if its worth it.. they are just sitting there and its just a straights with curve going in. 

right side, is the coal ramp. So in theory, if this works.. I can drive a train past that 022, back train up and switch track and back coal car loaded with coal up the ramp and click it in, disconnect then drive away. that is the hopes. it too is just sitting there waiting for the table to be built then actually connected.

hope that sums it up some....


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## Jackets (Jan 24, 2020)

Indeed, All questions answered.

Cheers


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

after i get the table built.. and start laying it out, the right side wont happen for a long time... but it may... 

if it doesn't, the lionel 497 coaling station shown on the far right will make its way on the left side tracks... waiting for that to come in from ebay… $58... figured why not.. got a coal ramp and coal loader in one area... need to have a coal mine somewhere!!!!!! hah...

this is my thoughts on the buildings I have now.. the start of the key ones.. but as I said, may just get rid of or box up the milk loader and cattle loaders...


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

so could be like this.. to drop trains off there and leave... put a bump stop at the end...


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## Jackets (Jan 24, 2020)

I like that it makes it double ended with the extension on and they you can run over and flip back not having to reverse back to the main layout. Giving a spur to drop/shuffle more stuff on/at.

Cheers


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

Riggzie said:


> so could be like this.. to drop trains off there and leave... put a bump stop at the end...


so silly question here...

When I had the left side of this layout done and on my floor, I was having issues around the upper left area. After googling Lionel 022 isolator pin placement, I have found out where they go and I had a few of these switches that didnt come with any pins. I put regular metal pins in and think that was my issue. Isolator pins are on order....

but 

how about a 90 degree crossway track? they just get metal pins on all sides? figured Id best ask and make sure I know the answer before I build the table and lay it all out again.

Googled it, but couldnt find any info so im guessing all good with 12 metal pins.....

thx!
~Jeff


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## Cousin Eddie (Jan 4, 2019)

Riggzie said:


> Riggzie said:
> 
> 
> > so could be like this.. to drop trains off there and leave... put a bump stop at the end...
> ...


. The 90 degree crossing should use all metal pins.


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

Cousin Eddie said:


> . The 90 degree crossing should use all metal pins.


ok thx. 
so now i have no excuses.. ive got 36 isolating pins coming (had $ on amazon gift cards)...


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## 67flh (Feb 28, 2020)

Lehigh74 said:


> Looks like a good start to me.


It looks like a fine start to me too! Good Luck!


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

while i like it and its symetrical... I found a layout that would allow me to run two trains... so i am going to incorporate it into this layout...


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

well its added now...
only problem is im short a few switchers...lol

short like 10!!!! LOL...

well eventually...


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

aight gonna lay some track soon!!!

only cost in so far is for the screws...


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

dry run.. didnt finish other loop yet. 

traversed train there and lost power. not sure why yet...


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

more....


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

gonna yank a 10" on each side... so i have plenty of room where trains will meet. gonna keep it separate track loops.

to that. curious why where i have the transfer to inner loop... no voltage? thats a good thing for other throttle...but curious. isolation pins in correct spot but not on center rail.


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## Cousin Eddie (Jan 4, 2019)

Looks good! Off to a good start!


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

Need some help now..

so layout is up and running... kinda working. I dont have the switches setup so I have manually throw them and 1 is also not switching so needs to be cleaned...

now the confusion I have at where you see I have 2 O22's say.. both Lefts tied together... then I have 2x o22 rights together...

I can drive a train fully around the track on the outer loop, I can also go into the middle and hit the + and switch directions. All of that works fine.

IF I go into the center section, I dont have any power and loose it where you see I have circled.

Interesting (yes used a volt meter)... if I move the lock-on to the center loop, I can drive the train in the center loop just fine. I can also drive it out of that loop and 3/4 way around the track. I loose power on the left closes side... 

strange... 

so the manual states where to put the isolate pins and I have done that. 

So are you supposed to use those isolating pins on Both that join together?

looking for ideas what to try and figure out what is going on...

thx


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

So are you supposed to use those isolating pins on Both that join together?

It has been a while since I fooled with mine, easy enough to try what you said above. I might have mine set different anyway as I have my inside loop powered by the second handle on my ZW.

Try it?


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## Cousin Eddie (Jan 4, 2019)

Not to distract from the problem at hand, but are you going to run multiple trains? If so are you using just transformers or a legacy system or similar? I’m asking because if your using transformers for multiple trains you’ll need to wire in blocks. The other thing is at the bottom of your pic it looks like the inner loop is touching the outer and the outer is not connected bottom right of your pic. That will prevent two trains from passing there and that connection isn’t good. Probably not your problem right now.


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

Cousin Eddie said:


> Not to distract from the problem at hand, but are you going to run multiple trains? If so are you using just transformers or a legacy system or similar? I’m asking because if your using transformers for multiple trains you’ll need to wire in blocks. The other thing is at the bottom of your pic it looks like the inner loop is touching the outer and the outer is not connected bottom right of your pic. That will prevent two trains from passing there and that connection isn’t good. Probably not your problem right now.


well i would love to run 2 trains but the layout is so small wouldnt make sense. still you have a point. I think they were touching... I mentioned above removing a 10" from each side to shorten the inner loop. well i actually had to take it all apart for a different reason and now rebuilt it and it seems the outer loop didnt get as big as it was supposed too... 

so ill spread it out..

thx...


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

I know that if im going to run multiple loops, i need to separate the tracks via center pin.

for now i just threw 2x o22 together and it seems that then the outter rails are not connecting. vs the inner rail...


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

You have the ZW?
Run two?
The switches you have circled just isolate them from the inner loop. Then use one throttle handle for the inner and the other for the other rail?
What am I missing?


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

Big Ed said:


> You have the ZW?
> Run two?
> The switches you have circled just isolate them from the inner loop. Then use one throttle handle for the inner and the other for the other rail?
> What am I missing?


you are correct... i could do that..

but i was curious if there was a specific configuration if you set the o22s up how I did?


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

on a google search i landed on another forum where someone had the same issue... and what was said there is that the pins are fine and to just add another lock-on inside that loop. Did that and all good now...

thx! but yes, if I decided to do 2nd throttle of ZW - I will definitely add an isolator pin to the center of both o22 to have a different throttle.. thx again!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Riggzie said:


> you are correct... i could do that..
> 
> but i was curious if there was a specific configuration if you set the o22s up how I did?











Why are you putting the insulating pins on both rails?
I don't have the o22's but the way I did mine is.

Looking at your picture try to insulate the tube on the inside rail to all the switches but the ones on the main line.
I can't figure out my paint program or I would point it out, my old paint I could do it.

Where the main line switch hit the inside switch insulate the tube on the right side then do that all the way to the other main line switch. All you need is 4 insulating pins.
Try that, but to run the inside loop separate you have to hook the ZW up so you are using one handle for the inside loop and the other just for the outside loop.

That is how I did mine, worked for me.

My switches are too tight to show the pins I went down to look.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Never mind, I see that the far side you added a crossing piece??

Didn't see that from the picture you posted as it is off in the distance.
I thought the inside loop was just a loop.

Back to square 1.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Now that I see that, did you try just running all regular pins?
No insulating pins?

If you take out that crossing piece, you should be able to run a train on that inside loop separate, with the pins insulated like I said.


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

no i didnt try all metal pins. guess I could but i thought the point of the insulating pins is to keep the derailing feature...

fwiw - its working with adding the 2nd Lock-On...

just added 2 switches (im short 2 so gotta get some)... and can now switch from outside loop to inside from at the throttle!!!! THAT IS COOL!!!!

so i put 1 switch to both turnouts in one area.. so it opens to go in and the other turns to go to the loop... i just then hit the switch on the other to close the other one to keep the train inside, switch it and it will open to let the train out!!!! perfect!!!!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Riggzie said:


> no i didnt try all metal pins. guess I could but i thought the point of the insulating pins is to keep the derailing feature...
> 
> fwiw - its working with adding the 2nd Lock-On...
> 
> ...


Maybe that is all you needed was the second lockon?
So how did you end up insulating the switches? 
With insulating the 2 outside tubes like you pictured? 
At all the switches?


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

Big Ed said:


> Maybe that is all you needed was the second lockon?
> So how did you end up insulating the switches?
> With insulating the 2 outside tubes like you pictured?
> At all the switches?


every track switch is setup the same... so a right turn would be the right on the straight and the right on the curve... 

so when you reverse two tracks.. you end up with an insulating pin on each outer rail....


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Riggzie said:


> every track switch is setup the same... so a right turn would be the right on the straight and the right on the curve...
> 
> so when you reverse two tracks.. you end up with an insulating pin on each outer rail....



OK, so 1 pin on 1 tube a switch, not 2 on each tube like you pictured?
The switches I have I switch with the control switch, I don't think mine can be set up to automatically switch unless I wire them different.

I like switching them by hand.


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

Big Ed said:


> OK, so 1 pin on 1 tube a switch, not 2 on each tube like you pictured?
> The switches I have I switch with the control switch, I don't think mine can be set up to automatically switch unless I wire them different.
> 
> I like switching them by hand.


correct... 1 on each BUT if you point 2 at each other... then you end up with 2 as you have two switchers with 2 pins into each other. only the center pin will be metal at that point. theoretically you would have a pin on the opposite rail but have to pull it to put the other one into it...


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Riggzie said:


> correct... 1 on each BUT if you point 2 at each other... then you end up with 2 as you have two switchers with 2 pins into each other. only the center pin will be metal at that point. theoretically you would have a pin on the opposite rail but have to pull it to put the other one into it...



Scratch my head.......OK, we will leave it at that.

But, I would guess that you will still need a switch controller to change the switch to go back out on the main line?
Like I said all of mine I have to switch by hand.

They are 1122, http://www.tandem-associates.com/lionel/lionel_trains_1121_track.htm

Yours are the 022 and you use a O22c controller for them, http://www.tandem-associates.com/lionel/lionel_trains_022_track.htm OK
Answered my own question.

So what I see that looks like a crossing your going to get another switch or 2 back there?


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

Big Ed said:


> Scratch my head.......OK, we will leave it at that.
> 
> But, I would guess that you will still need a switch controller to change the switch to go back out on the main line?
> Like I said all of mine I have to switch by hand.
> ...


lol im getting so confused using switches and track switches and switchers....

how bout this... and let me know what question you have next.. LOL


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

OK, so you are using the left control handle on the transformer for the inside loop now?

Tell me, the track back by the transformer why do you have that little jog (curve) like that instead of just a straight curve going around?

Now I see you took out the crossing piece that was back there too? Like in the picture I posted of your table before.

Yeah, just leave all the wires on top like that, since your moving you might change the whole thing if you find a larger area to work with. 
This way you can at least experiment and run some trains.


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

Big Ed said:


> OK, so you are using the left control handle on the transformer for the inside loop now?


Nope... LOL...

I have a Lock-On on outside loop and inside and you can see them in the video. The wires are twisted together and used on the right throttle only... still just one throttle...



> Tell me, the track back by the transformer why do you have that little jog (curve) like that instead of just a straight curve going around?


lol I retyped this message about 6 times.. each time scratching my head... fine ill just say it... 
I DONT KNOW!!!!! :laugh:
could go straight but im a curvey kinda guy 



> Now I see you took out the crossing piece that was back there too? Like in the picture I posted of your table before.


you talking about the area to switch the train around to go opposite direction?

no its there... in the video i pointed out the fact that the one straight run track was disconnected.. noticed it after I hit record and didnt want to redo it.. getting that X all aligned up is a pita... im screwing all the track down once I fix the final o22.. just fixed one other.. and gonna wire them all up and screw track down..





> Yeah, just leave all the wires on top like that, since your moving you might change the whole thing if you find a larger area to work with.
> This way you can at least experiment and run some trains.


agreed!!!! :smilie_daumenpos:


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

The piece was back where the jog is, in the picture I posted of your layout looked like a 45 degree crossing going to the inside loop? 

That little jog might give you some problems if you ever run a whole train around.
Not just a locomotive around it.

This post here, look way back there>>>>>>where the jog is.<<<<<<<
It looks like a 45 degree crossing hooked up into the inside loop?

https://www.modeltrainforum.com/showpost.php?p=2515934&postcount=55


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

need a suggestion on what to put on the sides to prevent the trains from flying off the track if they derail. Yes i know throttle control is a biggie but I want extra protection!

I was told plexi glass... screwed into the sides but if i did that, i would think only near the curves.. straights should be fine..

other options?


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

Big Ed said:


> The piece was back where the jog is, in the picture I posted of your layout looked like a 45 degree crossing going to the inside loop?
> 
> That little jog might give you some problems if you ever run a whole train around.
> Not just a locomotive around it.
> ...



Is that the Jog? new term for me...

If so, it is just 2 tracks too close to which are now a lot farther apart...


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Yeppers it is that.

That curvy curve you put in (Jog), long trains might have a problem negotiating that. Instead of what you did for the other 3 corners.
But if you like it let it be, see what happens.
But put pillows on the floor.

From far away it (where your arrow is pointing) almost looks like a 45* crossing there.
See the 45* right lower in this picture.


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

Big Ed said:


> Yeppers it is that.
> 
> That curvy curve you put in (Jog), long trains might have a problem negotiating that. Instead of what you did for the other 3 corners.
> But if you like it let it be, see what happens.
> ...


yeah i have 2x 45 crossings in a box.. not using them...


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

During this WFH deal.. while on meetings where I have no contribution but listen.. been messing with my layout..
fixed 5 o22 tracks switches
ran wires to 10 of the 11 - 11th maybe tomorrow which is the side track i just added...
ok got a side track that will hold my switcher and 3 cars... on a separate throttle.. now gotta pinch in another one to get another train on standby...

so i did want to move in 6 months but i bet will be a lot longer so still fun to mess with the layout. dont want to get too involved as i dont want too much to tear down later..

but here is how she sits at the moment..


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

aight.. so tomorrow's plan is to 
add uncoupler track to that left side and go back to the wall....
wire the o22 for left side

add o22, coupler and rest of track in the center loop.
isolate it and use 3rd throttle
wire it all up


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

got 3 trains staged on separate throttles but the one o22 is not playing nice. other 2 trains i can bring onto the track...1 ata time as they have full access to all of the track.
all 4 throttles of my zw will be in use. this is how it sits now. definitely when we move, ill be doing it a bit different like wiring o22s so all i have to do is run the hot out vs all 3... make it 2 levels.. but for now its fun and i gotta organize my switches cus i loose track of what is what...


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

quick run on the new layout.. still more to work through..


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

these puppies are loud when you put a recording device close to the tracks... had to slow way down or youd think your on a roller coaster..


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Riggzie said:


> these puppies are loud when you put a recording device close to the tracks... had to slow way down or youd think your on a roller coaster..


What happened at the end?
You should have powered down right away.
Not really sure but I think you may have some of the switch lights set the wrong way. The colors.
Still have that little "jog" I see by the ZW. 
What camera did you use?


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

Big Ed said:


> What happened at the end?
> You should have powered down right away.
> Not really sure but I think you may have some of the switch lights set the wrong way. The colors.
> Still have that little "jog" I see by the ZW.
> What camera did you use?


end was the end... lol ..reversed train into side yard with separate throttle.

switch lights definitely wrong...hah..

yes jog stayin lol i like it

camera was campark 4k.. cheap!!! $60 with tons of adapters..


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

LOL.......I thought you had one of those mini cameras.
You know they make them?
I don't know the name or brand right now without searching.
Looking good.


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

Big Ed said:


> LOL.......I thought you had one of those mini cameras.
> You know they make them?
> I don't know the name or brand right now without searching.
> Looking good.


i have one but it wont charge. its tiny!!!!

mini camera. may need to get another..


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

ok back on track.... 
so in my pic way back... i show the layout i would love to do. Since i keep saying I want to move (just did tile floor in master bath so next up is tile in tub area)....I am not going to do the bridge where the crawl space door is then to the 9ft long oval with reverse loop... 

but im thinking a 2nd level under this one. I have the boards and plywood so i just need to do it... under there I am thinking of a train yard. 
I txt my contact and he said he has 260 bumps and o22 switches again.. so im going to go get them from him on the 24th.

with that... 
the train yard... 
I saw this post over at another forum - my apologies if not allowed to post links to other forums...





Cutting Down Lionel 022 Switches


On another thread there was a discussion about how to make the venerable old Lionel 022 (and 042) switches more useful for yards. I thought a separate thread showing how I do this might be useful for anyone interested. The standard geometry of an 022 switch is 10” long in the straight direction...




ogrforum.ogaugerr.com





and this is a neat concept but my question is how much space do you really save by doing this. Is it like in his pic... 
he has 5 spots in the yard and if they were not cut down could only fit 4 or 3? just curious how much you really save going through all of this work?.

maybe ill also join and post over there.. but this is my only forum i visit for trains... 
thx...


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Riggzie said:


> ok back on track....
> so in my pic way back... i show the layout i would love to do. Since i keep saying I want to move (just did tile floor in master bath so next up is tile in tub area)....I am not going to do the bridge where the crawl space door is then to the 9ft long oval with reverse loop...
> 
> but im thinking a 2nd level under this one. I have the boards and plywood so i just need to do it... under there I am thinking of a train yard.
> ...


260 bumps? what is a bump?


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## Riggzie (Dec 24, 2019)

Big Ed said:


> 260 bumps? what is a bump?


hah my bad...

260 Illuminated Bumpers


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

OK, I was working on getting all my lights hooked up again on my table.
At night I turn off all the lights and it lights up my layout nice, in the pitch black cellar.
I like that.
And I still have a bunch to add.


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