# BEGINNER IN HO TRAINS



## Bull6791 (Dec 14, 2015)

Hi. I am just starting out in Ho trains. Questions: which companies/ brands make the quality trains. Also I have some engines that do not work. They are all steam engines. How come most of the time when engines do not work it is always the steam engines that do not work. The other types of engines are always fine. 
Any info would be great 
Frank.


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Frank

Most of us have favorite brands of locomotives. And I feel certain
our members will so enlighten you. However, the quality
of manufacture today is so far superior to that of only a few years
ago that you can pretty much be assured of a good product no matter
which brand you buy. If you like the way a loco looks, and you'd like
to own. Buy it. You may want to be cautious, though, in buying
older used locos. They may not be up to today's standards.

Some brands and some series withoin a
brand, however, have more detailing. But, it's innards are likely the
same as a less costly loco from the same brand.

Bachmann has not been considered one of the top brands in the past.
They do, now, produce in their Spectrum line, very highly detailed
locomotives. I now have nine DCC Bachmann locos and the only
problem I have had was from damage due to my clumsiness.

Yes, because of all of that rod action, the number of large drive
wheels and overall length, you can expect a lot more problems
with a steamer than the much simpler gearing of diesel trucks.

But even so, many of our members are very strong fans of
steamers on their layouts.

Turnouts and track accessories vary a good deal in quality.
I use Atlas flex track and Peco Insulfrog turnouts. Peco is
very high quality. You just do not have turnout caused
derails with their products. Atlas flex track is as good as
it gets and is perhaps the most used in the hobby.

We welcome you to the Forum and hope to hear more from you
as you build your layout.

Don


----------



## thedoc (Oct 15, 2015)

Bull6791 said:


> Hi. I am just starting out in Ho trains. Questions: which companies/ brands make the quality trains. Also I have some engines that do not work. They are all steam engines. How come most of the time when engines do not work it is always the steam engines that do not work. The other types of engines are always fine.
> Any info would be great
> Frank.



Start by browsing the HO forum, there have been a lot of commentary on the different brands of engines and some comments on how to fix them. Then ask questions if you can't find the answer.


----------



## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

You'll save yourself a lot of trouble and heartache if you buy new locos rather than buying other's cast offs on ebay and the like. All current manufactures in the marketplace produce good quality stuff, frankly they can't afford not to.


----------



## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Welcome to the forum Bull. I'd like to mention that the secret to keeping those steamers running is very clean wheels. The tender wheels are just as important as the loco divers as power may be picked up at both. Clean the wheels with a q-tip and alcohol and the track too. Use the same kind of alcohol as you would on a cut or other wound. Rubbing alcohol I think it's called. A drop of light oil on the side rods and the rest of that linkage will help too. Pete


----------



## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

I buy used stuff primarily, and have been able to repair most issues. It all depends on your comfort level, and desire to do repairs and/or upgrades.


----------



## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

Bull6791 said:


> I have some engines that do not work. They are all steam engines. How come most of the time when engines do not work it is always the steam engines that do not work. The other types of engines are always fine.
> Frank.


While your last statement may be true for you, I do not think that steam locos are inherently more likely to stop working.

First of all, do you mean that they make no noise and will never move at all, even when you nudge them around the powered track? If this is the case, then either there is a break in the electrical connections inside the loco, or the motor is dead. Both of these things are equally likely to happen in either steamers or diesels. In this case, you might want to start off with new locos, as mentioned above.

Or do you mean that they run sometimes, but do to run smoothly, and instead tend stop and lurch forward suddenly when nudged. This type of behavior is more common in steamers than in diesels, and there are several different possible causes of this behavior. As mentioned above, start by cleaning the track and the wheels on the locos. If this does not solve his problem, and if you still want to work on them, let me know, and I can share some of the things that have helped my steamers run better.


----------



## Bull6791 (Dec 14, 2015)

MTRR75. This is Bull6791. I wanted to send you a message but I can not. Let me know how I can send you a PM. THANKS


----------



## mikek (Dec 29, 2013)

Besides more wheels and such, steamers usually get half their electric power from the tender. The connection between the two can be difficult if it's just a springy wire rubbing on a post, make sure the wire is pressing on the post. Also, the trucks can get turned around the wrong way, making a short circuit. Do a little testing with a multimeter to make sure everything is set right. I have to mark some with a dot of white paint to keep trucks right, a matching dot on the tender.


----------



## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

Bull6791 said:


> MTRR75. This is Bull6791. I wanted to send you a message but I can not. Let me know how I can send you a PM. THANKS


Right click on the users name in the upper left corner of their post. This will open a menu on which you should see "Send XYZ123 a private message." Click that and follow instructions. Being so new, I'm not sure you are able to PM people, but I could be wrong about that.


----------



## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

flyboy2610 said:


> Right click on the users name in the upper left corner of their post. This will open a menu on which you should see "Send XYZ123 a private message." Click that and follow instructions. Being so new, I'm not sure you are able to PM people, but I could be wrong about that.


That is correct, but I am not sure how many posts you need before you "graduate" to full member status and can use private messages and post pictures. I think it is somewhere between 5 and 10.

So Bull6791, just thank each one of us individually and your post number will climb quickly.


----------



## Bull6791 (Dec 14, 2015)

Question: is snapable track any good. Like ez track or stay with the track that get nailed or glued down like Atlas flex track. 
Thanks


----------



## Bull6791 (Dec 14, 2015)

MTRR75. I sent you a visitor message.


----------



## Bull6791 (Dec 14, 2015)

MTRR75. I sent you a visitor message. Thanks bull6791


----------



## Bull6791 (Dec 14, 2015)

The Bachmann ez track set I bought brand new. I ran it 3 times and it ran fine. The 4th time nothing. Tried other trains on the same track and they work fine. Put the 0-6-0 steam engine back on track nothing. Check track and track has continuity. Do not know what to try next. 
Thanks


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

If 'other' trains run on your track and one does not, the
obvious is there is a problem with that loco. Usually
it is a failure of power pickup from the wheels. Since
it's a new loco, likely the wheels have not yet accumulated
grime, but check that to make sure.

With the loco on the track, does the light glow when
you give it power? If so, and it still does not run, there
is likely a broken wire to the motor. Or the gearing has
jammed to prevent the motor from powering the wheels.

You got a line drawing of the loco in the box it came in. Review
that and determine how it picks up power. Some times it is
from the loco wheels themselves, other times it is from
the tender wheels or a combination of both. Then check
the wires from the wheels to the motor and light board.
There can be a break or bad solder joint to is breaking
the power feed.

Don


----------



## Bull6791 (Dec 14, 2015)

Don. No lights. Nothing on that engine works.


----------



## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

If the loco is new, and you are sure that the track is getting power, you might want to return it for an exchange or a refund.


----------



## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

As above. Don't mess with it just send it, or the whole caboodle back. Perhaps an email to the supplying retailer might be a idea initially.


----------



## Bull6791 (Dec 14, 2015)

MRTT75. Could you please share with me what has helped you with your steam engines 
Thanks.


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Bull6791 said:


> Question: is snapable track any good. Like ez track or stay with the track that get nailed or glued down like Atlas flex track.
> Thanks


"Snapable" track, or roadbed track, as it's called in the hobby (probably to distinguish it from Snap Track, a brand of sectional, non-roadbed track made by Atlas), is fine*, as long as you can deal with the limited configurations you can make from the limited shapes available. It can actually help beginners get good track alignment, which is critical to trouble-free operation. Longer term, the quality of the turnouts provided with roadbed track is not the best, and they will eventually start giving you trouble.

*As long as you have the gray roadbed, nickel-silver rail variety. If you have the black roadbed steel track, you're in for cleaning headaches.


----------



## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

Bull6791 said:


> The Bachmann ez track set I bought brand new. I ran it 3 times and it ran fine. The 4th time nothing. Tried other trains on the same track and they work fine. Put the 0-6-0 steam engine back on track nothing. Check track and track has continuity. Do not know what to try next.
> Thanks


It sounds like either the motor died or a solder joint broke. If you really want to troubleshoot it yourself, rather than returning it, first know that trying to fix it yourself could void your warranty (check the warranty details).

You could remove the shell, hook a couple of wires to your transformer, then touch the other ends to the two places where the wires are soldered to the motor. If the motor does not respond, then it is dead.

If the motor does respond, then there is a break in the transmission of the power from the track to the motor. First take a pair of forceps or tweezers and GENTLY wiggle the wire at each solder junction. Nothing should move at the solder junction. If it does, the you have a cracked solder junction. If you have experience soldering tiny wires in tight places, you can briefly touch your hot iron the cracked junction to reseal it.

If you can't find any broken wires or cracked solder joints, follow one motor wire at a time, and check the resistance between the motor and the next junction, using a multimeter. Keep one lead on the motor and keep moving the other one up the line until you come to the pickup wheel on that side. Then repeat on the other side. When the resistance goes to infinity, you have located the break in the circuit.

As somebody else mentioned, sometimes the power is picked up in the tender. So be prepared to follow one or both circuits into the tender. However, if there are wires going to the tender, it does not necessarily mean that the tender is picking up the track power. The wires may be going to a back-up light in the tender, or they may lead to a plug in the tender where a DCC card can be inserted.


----------



## bluenavigator (Aug 30, 2015)

As the track set is brand new, I am sure that it comes with its own loco and you try to use the old streamer loco. The issue is on the old streamer loco, correct? 

If so, then is the new track set using DCC? Old streamers does not have the DCC decoder, which might be the answer to the problem. 

If not, then it is a guess on the motor issue on the old streamer loco.


----------



## Bull6791 (Dec 14, 2015)

Question: what is the best way to clean track an train wheels. Use alcohol or something else. Also I am using BACHMANN EZ TRACK so I do not have to mess up my platform. Maybe I should use a different track that is better. I know I get a lot of derailed trains with this track. But on the other hand I did not want to make holes in the wood by stapling or nailing down track. 
Any suggestions would be great. Thanks


----------



## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Rubbing Alcohol is the stuff.

Derailed trains is not something you want so consider going to a premium brand, it'll save a lot of frustration and heartache in the long run. I've found Peco to be excellent and use their code83 line which cones in live or dead frog, but there are others to choose from.


----------



## mikek (Dec 29, 2013)

Bull6791 said:


> Question: what is the best way to clean track an train wheels. Use alcohol or something else. Also I am using BACHMANN EZ TRACK so I do not have to mess up my platform. Maybe I should use a different track that is better. I know I get a lot of derailed trains with this track. But on the other hand I did not want to make holes in the wood by stapling or nailing down track.
> Any suggestions would be great. Thanks


I'm sure others will agree, you are going to have to fasten that track down, especially if you are running any six-wheel-truck cars. I had to fasten my Bachmann E-Z-Track down, it solved my derailing problems with my Hobbytown coaches. A little difference in height between the rails will derail, especially in curves.


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Derailed trains may be the fault of the track, or it might not be. If you just have an oval that came with a train set, this is going to have tight curves (18" radius), which not all equipment can handle. Especially not the bigger, modern stuff with 6 axle trucks.

Mike is right, too, that if your track flexes when the train goes over it, that will cause derailments, and your only solution is going to be to fasten the stuff down. It is not necessary to put nails in your platform if you don't want to. Many adhesives will do the trick. My personal favorite is DAP adhesive latex caulk. It's easy enough to pry it up with a putty knife if you want to remove it. Just use a 1/8" bead and spread it thinly before you press the track into it.

For cleaning: denatured alcohol. Use a lint free rag for track, and a Q-tip for wheels.


----------



## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

The other thing to check with easy track is: Are the rail joints smooth, no sudden ups or downs at the junctions. Even small ones can cause derailments. Run your finger over each joint to see if it is smooth. If not, first check that both rails are inserted into the rail joiner. Sometimes, if you are not careful, one of the tracks slips over the top of the rail joiner.

If the rail joiner is in the proper place, then try tacking the track down to a flat board and see if this makes the joint level. If that does not work you may have to use a small file to smooth down the rail that is too high. But if you do this, mark the joints on the bottom of the track with the same letters or numbers. When you reassemble the track, you will have to pair these two tracks together again. They might not fit with other sections after filing.


----------



## Mr.Buchholz (Dec 30, 2011)

Bull6791 said:


> Hi. I am just starting out in Ho trains. Questions: which companies/ brands make the quality trains.


Bachmann has come a long way. They make awesome trains now at reasonable prices. I would suggest Bachmann, or Athearn, but be prepared to pay more for Athearn. Best piece of advice I can give you: STAY AWAY FROM TYCO!!! You'll thank me later.

-J.


----------

