# Track insulators on DCC layout



## HOMatt (Feb 14, 2016)

I'm converting to DCC. With the exception of the roundhouse area and a Wye, are track insulators used _at all _in a DCC layout? 

I started to remove all of the insulating joiners but thought I should ask this first. 

here is my layout.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

The only reason beyond the WYE and Turntable for insulated joiners is
if you are going to want a spur track that can be turned off, for example,
so you can park a DC locomotive on it and the DCC AC track power won't
burn out it's motor. 

OR

If you plan to use 'power blocks'. Individual isolated sections of the layout
each connected thru a circuit breaker so that a 'short' in one area does not
interrupt a train running in another area. Very optional, not needed, in
my opinion, on your layout.

The original owner likely had isolated sections so he could have more
than one DC power pack switchable to them. I'd cut out all of his track wiring
except the track drops and install a new DCC buss to those and 
remove his insulated joiners.

Don


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## fcwilt (Sep 27, 2013)

Was the original layout wired for block control?

If so you can simply leave the blocks insulated and run DCC power to each block.


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

You do not have to have the insulators. They can be advantageous though. I converted a DC layout setup in Blocks to DCC and did not remove any of the insulators or change the main panel. I just left all of the blocks turned on. Reason for this is if a short is detected I can turn off the suspected area. Then if the short has is no-longer present I know within 3-4 feet of track where the issue is.

If I was building this new I would probably make the same number of feeds (every 3-4 feet) but double or triple the length of the blocks. In DCC they are for maintenance and troubleshooting only.


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## HOMatt (Feb 14, 2016)

My thinking was right then. I'm starting to get a handle on DCC, I just wasn't sure on the turnouts. All of my Atlas turnouts have the insulated frogs. I do plan on converting them to Peco and using under table mounts for the switches. But that is in the future.

Right now I have a power connector every 4' or so throughout the layout.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Matt

You know I'm a big fan of Peco turnouts, but there is a problem
when you try to replace an Atlas with a Peco in an existing
layout. The measurements,
and degree of diverting track is different. You would have to do
some track realignments to replace Atlas with Peco, unfortunately.

Track drops every 4 feet sure won't do any harm, tho mine are
about every 6 feet or so.

Don


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## HOMatt (Feb 14, 2016)

Don
looking at the Peco site, I thought there was a size difference. That would be a PITA to lay this all out then convert later.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

I never use insulating joiners. I leave gaps. I dislike the weird look of the plastic insulating joiners. They aren't so bad when left clear, but soon they turn yellow, or if you weather your ties and rails, as I do, they look like chunky weird derails everywhere.

Just leave a small gap, about 1/16", and control the humidity in your train room to within a range of about 25%. Keep temperature swings below 30 deg F.


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## HOMatt (Feb 14, 2016)

I really don't have an issue with temp swings. The basement is pretty well insulated and maintains a fairly constant temp throughout the year. Maybe a 10* swing. It's 67* down there now and the heater isn't even on.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Matt

I'd suggest that you go ahead and get it running. Then see if any
of the Atlas turnouts need adjustment and take action then. You can
fiddle and faddle and eventually get them to transit a train
without derailing. It's just that some of us, like me, lost all
patience for that and went to Peco exclusively. 

Don


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