# thinking about making the jump to dcc



## Falcon (Jan 10, 2015)

i have been trying to search for some information about making the switch to DCC and I dont want to get something then find out i need more things to make it work. what i will be wanting to do is to be able to run 2 to 3 ho locomotives my lay out as of right now as planed is a 2 lvl considering making a 3rd have not decided on that yet but that one would be a narrow gauge. i have seen some of the nce dcc complete starter systems which looks like it runs about 150 but only seems to have a limit to a total of 2 maybe 3. but id rather have a system that will allow me to add more locomotives with out having to buy more stuff for the dcc. id rather have a bit of room to expand if i so choose.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

The NCE DCC starter system would work for you now, and
it can be expanded for later.

It claims to have a 2 amp power capability. The typical HO
locomotive uses approximately .5 amp when running
full speed. However, most modellers run their locos
much slower. A variable speed DC motor uses less 
current as the RPMs descend. Thus, you should be able
to run 5 or 6 locomotives simultaneously with it out
of the box.

The above assumes non sound locos. Sound takes 
much more current and if you have several running at
the same time you would want to install a 5 amp booster.

Decoders to upgrade your existing locos run as little as
16.00 but can go much higher. Sound decoders are
closer to 100.00 or more each.

If you have any Wyes or Reverse loops in your layout you
would need a Reverse loop controller for each. This device automatically
sets the track polarity for isolated track sections when
a train crosses the insulated joiners. 

You would power your turnouts and accessories with whatever
you are using now. DCC track current is not used for
accessories in most cases.

The controller that comes with the NCE system is capable of
running several locos at the same time. However,
you would likely want to add additional hand held controllers especially
if you have family or friends who join you during operating sessions.
That way you could control your train, they could control their's. 

Some handhelds are wireless. This requires a wireless receiver
for your main controller. Otherwise you could install jacks about
your layout and easily move a wired hand controller from point
to point. The train would continue on while you do that.

Now if you have a very large layout you probably already have
it wired in 'power blocks' with short detection and control. You
would want the same in DCC.

The major difference is that you no longer need all those isolated
sections controlled by a panel of power pack selectors and the like.
Just set all of them to ON for your DCC controller feed and that's
all the changes you would need to start.

I think I've pretty much covered what you could expect with your
upgrading to DCC. Most of what I listed is optional, not required
to start out.

DCC is not a 'gotcha' system. Most layouts will do find with what
comes in your starter set. But, if you have any more questions
we're here to help.

Don


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Really, anybody's starter set will come with everything you need to get started, with the possible exception of contol units for reversing sections of track. That is not an issue. You will also need one decoder for each locomotive you intend to run, but these can be from any company, not just the one that makes the DCC set. The only "gotcha" here is that I knew one guy who bought "accessory" decoders because they were cheaper. You need mobile decoders (accessory decoders will be clearly identified;if it doesn't say, it's a mobile one).

The number of trains you can run simultaneously depends on two things. First, as Don said, there's the amperage issue. Second is your ability to keep track of them all and switch back and forth to give commands. Most sets are limited by two other things -- the numbr of memory slots available to remember locomotive details (sounds like that's what the 150 is) and the number of controllers that can be used simultaneously. Since each controller must have a unique address, most sets are limited to 99 (not that I've ever heard of someone getting anywhere close to that in practice -- maybe on a big club layout where everone brings their own controller).

Personally, I find DCC so much better that I can't see why anyone would hesitate.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Another vote here for NCE. I have the basic Powercab and for the money it can't be beaten, plus it's very intuative to program. Can be infinitely expanded as well. You will need the smallest possible decoders for NG, installing sound might be challenging but not impossible. I have found that since using DCC the sound really makes the whole layout come to life.


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## DavefromMD (Jul 25, 2013)

See my thread on my experience in converting from DC to DCC in this forum titled:

Converted from DC to DCC - My Experience from Nov 17.

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=25591


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## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*dc conversion to DCC.*

There is yet another place that helps guide you through the technical aspects of DCC.
Mark Gurries DCC web site. I believe also he's an NCE person. Regard's,tr1


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