# PROJECT: Rebuild of 264E Commodore Vanderbilt Red Comet



## prr2818 (Apr 26, 2013)

To start, I was told, if I wasn't rebuilding this for Sentimental Values, that it was not worth putting the money into it. This was my wife's families train when she was a child and was left to rust in the attic. So, I decided to take the task on and give it a try.
The first series of attached pictures are the engine before, I am currently at the point of almost completing all the stripping and getting ready for primer.
I will take pictures of the stripped engine, tender and cars in the next segment.

Thanks, and appreciate any comments along the way.

Dennis
PRR2818
Piscataway, NJ


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## prr2818 (Apr 26, 2013)

*Tender*

Tender


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## prr2818 (Apr 26, 2013)

*Coach 1*

Coach 1


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## prr2818 (Apr 26, 2013)

*Coach 2*

Coach 2


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## prr2818 (Apr 26, 2013)

*Observation Car*

Observation Car


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

It looks like a fine candidate for a restore job.

Do you know the value of the engine in good shape?

Good shape around $150 excellent shape around $300.
That doesn't include the cars.

A little TLC and you will have a nice set.

How is the engine have you popped the shell off?
Any sign of life in her?

Did the Model Railroad Shop in Piscataway tell you that?


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## prr2818 (Apr 26, 2013)

Hi Big Ed,

Yes, I had bought parts to repair the motor but eventually had to send it out to get the work done as I didn't have the tools to pull the wheels to replace the collector assembly.

She ran but was grinding and the guy found out that the axle bushings were shot, replaced them while he had it and it is on it's way back now.

And no, the Model Railroad Shop didn't say that but Jeff Kane did as he didn't want me to spend a lot of money if I didn't really want to do the work.

Now the only current problem is to riveting the Engine Body back together again after I am done painting. As right now I do not want to spend the money for the arbor press and the additional pieces needed.

Dennis
PRR2818
Piscataway, NJ


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## prr2818 (Apr 26, 2013)

*Reply*

Duplicate


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

He had to pull the wheels just to replace the collector?

I have not worked on this engine, I didn't know you had to pull the wheels to fix that.
The body is riveted on?

I still say it is a nice candidate for a rebuild. :thumbsup:

Wait I will bet more say that when they see your thread.


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## eljefe (Jun 11, 2011)

I agree with Ed. You can probably make these look fantastic again! There are a few guys on this forum who'd probably salivate over rehabbing a train like this.


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## NYC 5344 (Dec 26, 2012)

Very nice. It's a shame this train wasted away like that, I'm sure your wife will love it when it's done. I'm sure she'll have some sentimental attachment to it.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I saw more rust then red! I don't think of the money when I redo stuff. I like the satisfaction of the end product even it it takes a few mistakes along the way. After there finished there will be a prideful gleam in your eye when you look at this little bit of saved history!


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## imatt88 (Jan 31, 2010)

jefe, I know there is...

prr,

Like I always say, another saved from the landfill

Good luck on your resto:thumbsup:

Cheers, Ian


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Dennis,

That's all a great candidate for restoration. I've tackled rust buckets like these, and with care and patience, the sheet metal will clean up wonderfully, and fresh paint will bring things back to life. Some thoughts ...

Disassemble all tinplate into basic components. Strip the old paint off with heavy duty oven cleaner ... I use Walmart brand. After, I derust to shiny metal using a Dremel and (several) stainless steel brushes. Some other guys here have been using Evaporust with good success. Either way, it's imperative that you buff/brush away all rust "veins" ...even the smallest ones. When shiny, prime and paint (same brand!) all components individually. I use Krylon ... their Banner Red is a nice match for prewar Lionel.

I restored a little 1511 wind-up tinplate Vanderbilt a while back. Smaller than yours, but you can see the strip / refiinish process ...

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=11839

I redid some 610 / 612 passenger cars a while back. Perhaps some ideas in my thread that may help you ...

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=8795

The wood block / loco electrical pickup on your passenger car is not original, of course. Jeff might be able to help you with suitable replacement parts.

Keep us posted!

TJ


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Those were No. 603 Pullman, another 603 Pullman, and the No. 604 Observation cars? Right?
It looks like someone repainted them once, the lights are definitely add on.

I am surprised that the windows retained the cream color.

Tell me, is the tender a whistle tender?
Do you see any wires and a pickup underneath?

Like I said, they don't look all beat up and dented, just need a little cleaning and a fresh coat of paint.
Even if you don't want to dump the bucks into it to run it will look nice sitting on a shelf. You already dumped some bucks into it, I would say finish it. The fun part is painting them. 
Do you have a layout to run them on?
Who did the work on the engine?
The guy who worked on it didn't have to take the shell rivets off?

These were made in the middle 30's, that puts the wife at around 85 years young? 
Or maybe these trains were used when her family got them?


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Tj, good links and rehabilitation jobs. I got some tips! In the second link you mentioned that yellow car you had to paint several times, I thought it was funny how you just mentioned it on T-Mans recent redo.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Looks like a lot of fun is ahead. 

The collector change is not easy. Sometimes the wheel gap can be enlarged to help. the don't need to pulled off. I was thinking of modifying some putty knives to fork the axle. The drive the axle down with a small drift pin. Two putty knives may even do a little spreading to get them between the frame and wheel. Not as fancy as a press but easy for a small engine. Marx engines can be done this way too.

The tough part is getting the collector in and not damaging any of the tabs. Not a beginner project. If the tab is near a frame stud you will get little clearance there period. You will have to trim the tab and grunt it into place. Hope it stays in one piece.


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## prr2818 (Apr 26, 2013)

big ed said:


> Those were No. 603 Pullman, another 603 Pullman, and the No. 604 Observation cars? Right? *I think so, could not tell form the cars themselves as all indications were gone.*
> 
> It looks like someone repainted them once, the lights are definitely add on.
> 
> ...


*I think they may have been her fathers and he ran them with the kids as my wife isn't that old, only 56! LOL*

Thanks for the input and help to you all!

Dennis
PRR2818
Piscataway, NJ


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

What shell rivets are you talking about? The ones that hold the trucks to the cars? If so, you can reattach the trucks with machine screws and fiber-insert lock nuts.

The shells themselves are all tabbed assembly, right? What rivets there?

TJ


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## prr2818 (Apr 26, 2013)

In the engine Body, the front cross member assy. that holds the front pilot assy and the motor goes in.


See picture, btw this isn't my set but what mine will look like!

Dennis


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Ahh ... got it ... I didn't realize there was a rivet there. It'd be nice if you can replicate that. But if that's too tricky, consider an Allen-head round-head screw like I used on my 259E, with rivet/screw description and pics, here:

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?p=30266&postcount=43

Regards,

TJ


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Looked good Tj, like that idea. I was looking for a small flush mount screw for something similar, if I ever find it, I'll let you know. I know they make them in bigger sizes. Rivets are my old archenemy too.


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## prr2818 (Apr 26, 2013)

Thanks Guys,

If you can, keep me posted on the round head allen screw if you find a source.

Dennis
PRR2818
Piscataway, NJ


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I found some at 2 cents a piece.
But you have to buy a minimum of 10,000.
I don't think you need that many.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

try McMaster Carr for hardware


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I bought mine at my local ACE hardware ... one with pretty good fastener inventory.

Cheers,

TJ


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