# Painting Locos



## jark (Jan 4, 2015)

If any of you have repainted diesel locos and had good results, I would like to get pointers. I have a few that I would like to repaint in the Santa Fe Blue w/ Yellow War Bonnet. I assume that the old paint should be removed first. then I guess that the lighter color should be applied first then masked to apply the second color. Are there masking kits available or just do your own? I have an airbrush and plan on using it. Have any of you used auto touch up aerosol cans to shoot the shells with? What about matching auto colors for use in the airbrush? My questions should indicate that I need guidance!!! Your offerings will be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks!! john


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## Chet (Aug 15, 2014)

It would be best to strip any old paint if possible. The more paint, the less any ddetails. You might check to see if Microscale has decals for the yellow striping. I did this old Athearn locomotive over 25 years ago starting with an undecorated shell.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I have repainted a caboose and am now repainting a switcher.

You must remove the old paint else the added coats will
hide molded in details. I am using brake fluid to remove
the old paint. I fill a tall glass with the stuff and let the
shell sit over night, (it may require a second
night if all didn't come off) then carefully brush the loosened
paint. You must be aware of tiny added parts else, as
happened to me, a horn or light fixture may go down
the drain. Use a toothpick or a tool with a good point to
clear fine details.

I had intended on using the panel track plan technique
to paint on large road name letters but found that
over spraying the yellow with red, changed the color of
the red in the overspray area. I would recommend
that you carefully mask off the blue and yellow. It is
important to carefully burnish the edges of the masking
tape to get a good paint block. I used the plain blue
painters tape but there may be better available.

Don


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## jark (Jan 4, 2015)

Don - I use a lot of painters tape (blue) but I have found that the 'green' tape gives me sharper edges and seems to greatly reduce leaching which I'm sure is why you do the burnishing.Thanks for the suggestions. I sure do hate working around the handrails. Have you taken them off in the past? John


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## silver69 (Dec 20, 2013)

If available you may want to start with an unpainted shell.
They're usually cheap, less than $20.

Not sure what brand engine you are using but I know Atlas shells come apart.
Railings, skirt, horns, glazing, hood, everything so painting is a bit easier.

Here's one I recently painted for a member on the forum


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

jark said:


> Don - I use a lot of painters tape (blue) but I have found that the 'green' tape gives me sharper edges and seems to greatly reduce leaching which I'm sure is why you do the burnishing.Thanks for the suggestions. I sure do hate working around the handrails. Have you taken them off in the past? John


Some of the hand rails, horns and other added details are held in
by friction and are fairly easy to remove. They also break easily
if pestered too much.

I have read that the green tape does have better leach protection, but I
had a couple rolls of the blue and it worked.

Don


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## spookshow (Jun 5, 2015)

I find that 91% rubbing alcohol will strip most paint very readily (although some company's paints are harder to strip than others - Kato, for example). Note, that's 91% alcohol and not the more commonly found 70%. Just soak the model for a few hours and the paint should come right off (a toothbrush is usually necessary to get the old paint out of recesses and whatnot). I've left models soaking for several days (by accident) and have never run into problems with the alcohol damaging the plastic.

For masking, I've had very good results with Tamiya tape (readily available in various widths at any decent hobby shop).

Cheers,
-Mark


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