# Lionel 2440 Pullman and Observation cars



## Newtown Joe (Jan 30, 2013)

I just bought two Pullman and an Observation car from the late 40's. I'm considering repainting the roofs. Does anyone have any tips on how to go about this. Is there a spray can of this paint? It's a dark green. Is primer necessary? Where can I get the paint? Is there a modern paint color that would match or does it need to be Lionel specific?

Also, does anyone know the number of the bulb that goes inside? I think it's 14volt large bulb.

Lastly, why to these passenger car lights tend to flicker?

Any advise appreciated.

Newtown Joe


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## icolectto (Nov 28, 2012)

*2440*

The light bulb you need is :430-300	14 volt	Clear	Screw base

Good luck !


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Surface prep is everything when you paint. If you want a proper job, I'd strip them to the metal, clean it properly, and then prime and paint. 

Are you using spray cans or an air brush? Hennings Trains has custom paint for almost all of the post-war Lionel colors available.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I read something about what makes the lights flicker but I can't find it. 
Must have been in an old RR magazine.

If you install LED's it will take care of the flickering and distribute the light more. With what you have now the light is confined to the area just around the bulbs. Some ares are dimmer then others LED's will make the whole car light up.

I think there is a thread here for converting to LED's here?
John? Do you have a thread about that?
I couldn't find anything.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Here's a thread about how to power LED lighting for conventional running, it uses a voltage doubler so the lights are bright even at low throttle settings.

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=9270&highlight=passenger+led

Here's a thread about LED lighting for a set of passenger cars intended for command running with 18 volts on the track.

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=17427&highlight=passenger+led


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## Newtown Joe (Jan 30, 2013)

*Passenger car roof painting*

I'll use spray cans. I don't think removing all the old paint will be hard. I read somewhere oven cleaner will do the job. I'll buy some of the repro paint. 
Thanks.

I don't think I'm ready to convert to led lights just yet. Sometimes it seems I spend more time fixing things than just enjoying the trains. Time for a break, but thanks for the links, I"ll check them out for when I'm ready.

Newtown Joe


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

After you strip the paint wash them down with a little Dawn dish detergent in some warm water, then wipe them down with Isopropanol 91 or 99%. (rubbing alcohol) Avoid percentages under 91%, they might melt the plastic as they have other chemicals in them. 91 or 99% is just alcohol with water.

Then avoid handling them with your fingers, it might show up in the paint job.
Prime it, then a light sanding, and wipe it down with the rubbing alcohol again. Then shoot it with the rattle can. Light coats are better then heavy coats. 
Let it dry in between coats.

Make sure that the primer is compatible with the finishing paint.
Some primers don't work with other manufacturers paint.

Stick with the same manufactures paints, the primer and top coat.


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## Newtown Joe (Jan 30, 2013)

*2440 passenger repaint*

Lots of important tips, thanks. BTY these are metal roofs, You mentioned alcohol melting the plastic.


Newtown Joe


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Isopropyl Alcohol won't melt the plastic, at least not unless you submerge it for a month or two.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Newtown Joe said:


> Lots of important tips, thanks. BTY these are metal roofs, You mentioned alcohol melting the plastic.
> 
> 
> Newtown Joe


I mentioned that the alcohol UNDER 91% might melt plastic.
91 & 99% are just alcohol 91% has 9% water, 99% has 1% water.

If you buy say a 71% mix the other 29% will be other chemicals like Butyl Acetate, Ethyl Acetate, Methyl Ethyl Ketone, Acetone or what ever other chemicals they used to denature it. Most ALL will melt plastic. 

91 & 99%'s are just alcohol the other percent is water.

John I think even if you let plastic sit in the alcohol for a month I don't think it will melt it.
It will sterilize it real good.

Joe if you look on the bottles it will tell what percentages they are. Your safe with 91% or 99%. Anything under 91% should make a good stripper for metal but with plastic it will melt it.
Some say 99% is hard to get?
I don't know I haul it so when I need some I just grab a couple of sample bottles full to bring home.:smokin:


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I find when painting metal, it helps to heat up the metal a bit before hand. I also heat up the spray cans by placing them in hot water for five to ten minutes before using. But most important read the directions, some paints can be recoated right away others have to cure for a day or so before recoating.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I never use anything under 91%, it's difficult to get the 99% locally nowadays, so I have to live with the 91%.

I've never melted any plastic with it, just speculating if you left it in there a long time. Nice to know it won't melt it. 

What I can tell you is that 91% Isopropyl Alcohol WILL damage many types of paint on model trains, something to keep in mind! 

Be careful out there.


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## Newtown Joe (Jan 30, 2013)

*Pullman Car Roof Repaint*

OK, I got them painted and the color looks good, but of course I got the common orange peel look. My understanding is that to smooth them out I need to wet sand, compound and polish. I'll start with a 800 grit and advance to 1200. Hope I don't end up redoing the whole process. Well, it's a learning experience.

I'll let them set up for five days to make sure the paint has fully cured and hardened. Any other tips would be appreciated since I'm a novice at this and I need help from someone who already went threw this process.
Thanks,
Newtown Joe


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

That look is due to spraying technique. Enamel is more prone to that type of finish after painting than lacquer is. More than likely while spraying you were too far from the surfaces. A good wet sanding and polish will remove the look, but depending on paint thickness you may rub through the paint.

I have the same set of cars and will be doing the same thing down the road a bit. 

Carl


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## Newtown Joe (Jan 30, 2013)

*Lionel Pullman Roof Painting*

I've read that orange peel can be caused by spraying too far, too close, too hot, too cold, too humid, wrong mixture, oil or water in the paint, too much pressure or too little pressure, using spray cans instead of professional equipment and last but not least a lack of experience.

Well, it seems pretty much unavoidable. I just hope the wet sanding gets rid of it.


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