# Lionel 2025



## prr1361(inactive) (Nov 11, 2009)

Ok so some of you know Ive been asking questions about soldering. That was mainly for a #68 Executive inspection car. 

But Ive decided I want to share My Main project with you guys. Its a lionel 2025 the '52 version. Its custom painted for the PRR. Let me know what yins think. Good bad or in between

And for the postwar people that think Ive destroyed the engine by painting it. Dont worry Im looking for antoher one to restore to original and pull my 6440 passenger and 6441 observation cars


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I like the brass grab rails. How about a side picture of the boiler.
After Big Ed's rendition of orange and blue I think you are safe with the color.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

T-Man said:


> After Big Ed's rendition of orange and blue I think you are safe with the color.


And I'd add T-Man's pink 259 and my bright blue Elvis-clone 258 to that mix. Nothin' wrong with the occassional "romp on the other side of the fence" custom work. The tender looks quite nice. Ditto on T-man's request to see a side shot of the loco.

Cheers,

TJ


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

T-Man said:


> I like the brass grab rails. How about a side picture of the boiler.
> After Big Ed's rendition of orange and blue I think you are safe with the color.



Don't forget Johns Gold Express and Norgales Sunshine Limited.

If you want us to let you know you have to show it to us.

Take some more pictures.:thumbsup:

Only the brave dare to go where none of been before.

Screw the rivet counters.:smokin:


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## prr1361(inactive) (Nov 11, 2009)

The computer wouldn't let me upload the side view for some reason. Anyway the "steel city limited" will pull a bunch of modern cars from MTH mainly boxcars from around Pittsburgh. Some cars Im making for example I'm working on boxcars for a local dairy, and a popular sandwich shop. From the burghs strip district. Anyway I'll work on the side pic. Amazing....my little k-4 is up and down with its restoration just like its real counterpart


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

prr1361 said:


> The computer wouldn't let me upload the side view for some reason.


Make sure your image resolution isn't too big, say under 1600x1200. That said, your other pics were just fine.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I normally limit my uploads here to 800 wide, and 1024 for stuff that is really cramped with the smaller resolution. Wider stuff forces you to scroll side-to-side for every message in the thread.


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## prr1361(inactive) (Nov 11, 2009)

Ok lets try this. Also The motor need work. armature cleaning, new brushes, e-unit. ect.....


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

The two-tone boiler looks nice.

How are youi doing your cab numbers? Dry tranfer decals?

TJ


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## prr1361(inactive) (Nov 11, 2009)

Yes the lettering on the cab and tender are dry transfer from woodland scenics. The paint is to closely match the prr k-4 paint scheme. This was done before I knew a company was reproducing postwar paint colors. I could've used the GG-1 colors for painting.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*5690*

In case you have missed it my 5690.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

T-Man said:


> I like the brass grab rails. How about a side picture of the boiler.
> After Big Ed's rendition of orange and blue I think you are safe with the color.




T man, they stole my idea all ready!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

prr1361 said:


> Yes the lettering on the cab and tender are dry transfer from woodland scenics. The paint is to closely match the prr k-4 paint scheme. This was done before I knew a company was reproducing postwar paint colors. I could've used the GG-1 colors for painting.



PRR, did you ever try to take a dry transfer letter off without damaging the paint?

If so please tell me how?
I don't like how mine came out, I have been debating what to do.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

big ed said:


> T man, they stole my idea all ready!
> 
> View attachment 14897
> 
> ...


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

prr1361 said:


> Yes the lettering on the cab and tender are dry transfer from woodland scenics. The paint is to closely match the prr k-4 paint scheme. This was done before I knew a company was reproducing postwar paint colors.


Thanks. I've used WS dry transfer, too, with good success.

What company is are you referring to for the PW paint? I'd like to find a source of prewar paint available in spray cans (rather than jars).



big ed said:


> PRR, did you ever try to take a dry transfer letter off without damaging the paint?
> 
> If so please tell me how?
> I don't like how mine came out, I have been debating what to do.


Ed, I've done that with reasonable success. There's not much holding dry-transfer letters on. It's more friction / suction, than any true sticky adhesive. They should be clear-coated over, but I haven't been doing that on my end. As applied (without the clear coat), they can be removed with a q-tip and a little GooGone. Perhaps a tiny dab of paint thinner, if needed. Be careful with the thinner on any fresh paint. Test first.

Cheers,

TJ


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

tjcruiser said:


> Thanks. I've used WS dry transfer, too, with good success.
> 
> What company is are you referring to for the PW paint? I'd like to find a source of prewar paint available in spray cans (rather than jars).
> 
> ...



Thanks I will try. Can't hurt anything as I might shoot the blue again on the side, or drop the orange down.


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## prr1361(inactive) (Nov 11, 2009)

Ok so back to the drawing board. I've stripped the boiler and reprimed it. It will be done in Brunswick green. I've found paint to match 2332 original color. Pics to follow


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## prr1361(inactive) (Nov 11, 2009)

@tj I found a company called hobby horse products. Www. Hobbyhorseproducts.com. I think they're in Indiana. @ big Ed I very lightly use an xacto knife to scrape the decal. I'm going to try tj's method too. any suggestion for stripper that's plastic safe? It's a reproduction shell not the original Bakelite shell. That was in horrible shape when I got it


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

PPR,

Thanks for the hobbyhorseproducts tip ... I'll check 'em out.

I've stripped with EasyOff oven cleaner, but always on metal, never plastic. I'm not sure if others have used it on plastic with success. Anyone? Some guys here use brake fluid to strip paint on plastic. (Note: NOT brake_ cleaner_.)

TJ

EDIT -- Hey, I just checked out the HobbyHorseProducts website. They have LOTS of Lionel color-matched paints, all in 16 oz spray cans. Perfect for me! I was hoping to track down a source for traditional dark gunmetal. Thanks for the tip!!!

http://www.hobbyhorseproducts.com/Trains/Paint.html

Search hits:

Lionel paint
Lionel color matched paint
Lionel color-matched paint
Lionel spray paint


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

In my 5690 thread link Jason the Postwar collector strips his diesels with Easy Off.
Should we move this thread to O Scale?


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

T-Man said:


> Should we move this thread to O Scale?


Oh ... I hadn't noticed that. Moving thread over to the O section, now.

Thanks, T.

TJ


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Wow TJ, $14 plus $6 to ship = $20 bucks for one 16 oz can.

You might as well get 5 cans!

$45 plus for a custom mixed can!!!!


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## prr1361(inactive) (Nov 11, 2009)

Yeah I guess these guys have the market for postwar spray paint. I ain't done im going to keep looking for others similar. Ed I like the orange engine looks good


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Yeah, not cheap. But for us non air brush guys, there's not many other games in town if one wants to spray color-matched prewar Lionel colors.

I'd be very, very keen if anyone has any other good sources of canned spray paint.

There's a guy in NY by the name of George Tebolt who sells the stuff. However, I emailed him a few times, and have gotten no response. A few folks at the Amherst show said hes on in years, and is likely retiring from the game.

TJ


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## prr1361(inactive) (Nov 11, 2009)

Exactly. I'm not big on brushing either. Ill keep looking and will let everybody know


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

prr1361 said:


> Yeah I guess these guys have the market for postwar spray paint. I ain't done im going to keep looking for others similar. Ed I like the orange engine looks good



Thanks, it still needs tweaking.

Did you see this?

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=7467


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## prr1361(inactive) (Nov 11, 2009)

More progress........ As you can see Ive cleaned the commutator, and brush plate. I removed the old "fingers" from the E-unit and the pick up assembly. Any tips on how to get the drive wheels off? So I can all that clean?:retard:


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

It's not worth the trouble to remove the wheels.

One disadvantage is scratching the outsides. The hardest is lining up the gears, each wheel has a specific orientation for rod operation, called quartering and that is not found in the general manuals.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

PRR,

As long as you don't have a problem with the drive wheels themselves or the gearing behind them, I would avoid pulling wheels. A last resort, really.

Over in my 221 thread, I was able to get a 6-drive motor quite clean inside and out without removing the wheels. I even rewired a new power lead wire to the back (inside) of the pickup plate in the process.

Intact wheels are happy wheels!

TJ


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## prr1361(inactive) (Nov 11, 2009)

That's what I figured, but though you guys would know better than me. So thank you TJ and T-man. More pics to follow stay tuned.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

tjcruiser said:


> PRR,
> 
> As long as you don't have a problem with the drive wheels themselves or the gearing behind them, I would avoid pulling wheels. A last resort, really.
> 
> ...


I agree.

Don't pull them if you don't have to.


Pulling the wheels is the easy part.
If you don't break them taking them off.

It's getting them back on that is the hard part, especially if you don't have the proper tools. And the proper tools are not the cheap.

You should be able to clean it up without pulling wheels.


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## prr1361(inactive) (Nov 11, 2009)

Well again thats what I thought, but as I said Im pretty you all have more experience with the PW stuff than I do. Anyway The 2046w tender. I know is pretty much identical to 2671W tender. Other than the trucks and road name. How rare are these tenders?


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## prr1361(inactive) (Nov 11, 2009)

Oldie but goodie. Since this thread is already about the 2025 on YouTube there is a bideoof a 2 postwar engines double heading a freight. The gentleman that uploaded the video stated his article on how to put a front coupler on a PW loco was in the I think the 12-11 issue of O gauge. Does anyone know what I'm talking about? If so is there way I can get this article in a PDF, or something? I do want to double head my 2 2025s to pull this train. Let me know 
Thanks Steve


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Steve, if you post a link to what you're talking about, it would make it easier to find and also answer your question.


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## mnp13 (Aug 22, 2013)

This one?

http://youtu.be/AslE2ZajZxY


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Here is one thread here how the T Man (aka epoxy man) did it to double head some locomotives.

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=2589&


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## prr1361(inactive) (Nov 11, 2009)

Thanks Big Ed, Ill have to check it out. But this is the link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u0Wb-DkGLDY


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