# Plywood cut and stretch layout surface



## John Olson (Jan 14, 2016)

I am returning to the hobby after a long absence and plan on building a variation of the Granite Gorge and Northern classic, with some size increases and decreased grades. I would like to use the plywood cut and stretch (or cookie cutter) method to obtain the variation in levels that is seen on YouTube vid's (Jerry Hensler for example). It occurs to me that commercially available plywood is only available in 4'x8' sheets, at least in the quantity for this application. The 5'x9' layout would require two sheets of 4x8 and at least three separate joints. I can imagine gusseting the joints with plywood pieces glued and or screwed along the under surface of the joints, but this may not be sufficient to keep the joint from stressing and buckling. Anyone have experience with a better method? Thanks..........John


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

My personal opinion is that most benchwork is grossly over-engineered. My benchwork uses L girders of 1x3 and 1x2 (actually, a 1x4 ripped in half) for the legs and frame (including joists on 18" centers), some angle braces on each leg, a hardboard fascia, and extruded foam panels for a surface. I can crawl on mine.

"Better" is a tough term in this hobby, because what's great for me might stink in your book. I would, however, recommend that you look at a couple of other methods, especially open girder benchwork ideas using cleats and risers, or the extruded foam panels and foam risers.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

a splice made with a strip attached with a premium wood glue [gorilla, etc] is strong, try to avoid joints on start / end of inclines, and under turnouts if possible... you may get away with one sheet if you don't need plywood under scenic area [mountains, etc]


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## John Olson (Jan 14, 2016)

*cut and stretch*

Thanks for responding, my last layout (in the late 90's) was an L-girder base with risers. the track bed was a cookie cutter base cut out from 3/8" plywood sheets. The joints were 3/8" ply glued and screwed underneath the road bed. It was a garage sized outfit with lots of elevation change, but the joint weren't as stable as the rest of the 3/8" roadbed. I was just wondering if the cut and stretch method might be more solid and stable. It's hard to take issue with Armstrong


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## dave1905 (Jul 7, 2013)

You could buy a "handy panel" of plywood that is only 4'x4', cut it in pieces use it to make the fillers. Check with a bigger building supply company and see if they have plywood for ping pong table tops (they are 5x9, that's why so many beginner sets are a 5x9 size, they were intended to fit on top of a ping pong table). Most commercial ping pong tables are particle board, which may not be the best material, but an option would be to buy a used ping pong table, which would already be 5x9. It would NOT be a good option for a cookie cutter benchwork, you would have to do something else (foam?).


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## JerryH (Nov 18, 2012)

My expanded GG&N is 11 x 6 so spliced 4x8 sheets were used in the manner explained in the atlas plan construction.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Stable sub-roadbed, and joints*



John Olson said:


> Thanks for responding, my last layout (in the late 90's) was an L-girder base with risers. the track bed was a cookie cutter base cut out from 3/8" plywood sheets. The joints were 3/8" ply glued and screwed underneath the road bed. It was a garage sized outfit with lots of elevation change, but the joint weren't as stable as the rest of the 3/8" roadbed. I was just wondering if the cut and stretch method might be more solid and stable. It's hard to take issue with Armstrong


 John;

You can stabilize the cookie cutter plywood sub-roadbed by gluing 1"x2" lumber under each side of the roadbed. This forms a very rigid structure similar to a continuous deck girder bridge.
This is not so much needed to support the small weight of model locomotives, but it allows using thinner, more flexible plywood. This system also practically eliminates warping. Painting the roadbed, top & bottom, also seals out moisture and helps prevent warping. You can use the same basic idea at joints except that one side must be screws only, no glue; if you ever need to separate the two pieces of benchwork.

Traction Fan


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## John Olson (Jan 14, 2016)

Thanks for the excellent suggestions everyone. I'm still reading the newer publications on the matter. Once I've decided I'll post my solution for comment.


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