# Coupler type



## Chubbo (Feb 5, 2014)

I am getting into model Railroading again after 65+ years. I have been been buying Cars, locomotives, etc. I'v bought only stuff to use in a setup that I want to build around a rr depot that I used to hang around in, with a buddy who's father was the depot manager. I want to lay it out to depict the 20s to 50s era. I want to standerdise the couplers on the cars, and locomotives that I already have, Nothing fancy I have taken picks of some of the couplings, and mounts on the some of the equipment that I have. can you folks identify them for me, and suggest a standard style and make, so I can buy, and change the ones that have to be changed, or replace missing ones? HELP! Thanks. Chubbo


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## Flynn_lives (Jul 6, 2013)

I switched all my couplers to Kadee brand. They are a little bit oversised, but they have a ton of different shank lengths and fittings to work on any loco or rolling stock.


I've never seen the first one. The next 3 look to be regular knuckle couplers(this is the kind you want to start installing). The last picture is an older hook and loop coupler. 


I would suggest buying a coupler height gauge if you intend on standardizing your fleet of cars. It will help with problem cars from being decoupled during running.


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

The first one looks like a "dummy coupler" meaning there for looks only. The others were plastic knuckle couplers.

The last is really a horn-hook type. Those are easy to convert, but being they are truck mounted, they can cause derailments while backing up the train.

Flynn did a good thing by converting to the Kadee's.


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## Smokinapankake (Sep 8, 2011)

There are lots of brands and styles out there, as you are discovering. I like Accu-Mates, but it is a personal preference. Kadees are super popular and seem to have more fitment options than most any other brand. As a result of this, most couplers will mount where a Kadee will mount. For example, on my Athearns I can mount an Accu-mate coupler in the same place that I can mount a Kadee coupler, using the stock Athearn mounting parts. 

Whatever you decide on, I would recommend sticking with that brand exclusively. And like Flynn said, get a height gauge and set the couplers up with an eye toward absolute fidelity to requirements. To do otherwise can invite coupler/tracking problems....


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## Chubbo (Feb 5, 2014)

*Couplers*

I have just downloaded the Kadees catalogue. Now I need to study it. Where would I find your mentioned heigth guage? Thanks for the info folks. As they say, I don't know all I understandabout this stuff, but I am determined to get it done. My railroad is just in the planning stage, and I have a lot of ideas that I don't know if I can use, but with all you folks helping it might just be possible. When I get a little further along I might tell you what I have planned for my layout, to see what you think. Thanks to all of you, for your help.
Chubbo


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## Flynn_lives (Jul 6, 2013)

Kadee sells their own height gauge.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Chubbo

The many models of Kadee couplers can overwhelm.

The two most used Kadees are the #148 and the # 5.

The 148 is preferred by many. It's centered in the
draft box by 'whisker' wires and is a tad easier to install.

The 5 is similar to the 148 but a brass box with springy
tabs is used to center the coupler.

You'll find either one satisfactory for 95% of your cars and
locos. 

The other Kadee models make it possible to vertically align
couplers when the body mount is not standard. There are
also longer or short shank models for special problems.

Kadee makes two HO height gauges. The plastic version
insulates so you can use it on a powered track.

Don


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## Smokinapankake (Sep 8, 2011)

I will add that you can use the Kadee coupler height gauge with any brand of coupler.....


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

The last one is a talgo hookhorn, and can be replaced by a Kadee #5 with Talgo adapter kit. Kadee #212

As far a backing up with truck mounted couplers watch this.


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## ggnlars (Aug 6, 2013)

At the end of the day, you will likely want Kadees on all your equipment. 
It is easy to do, but it takes some practice, and your application will not give a good height with Kadees recommendation. We are dealing with model trains, and they warp and get out of perfect shape. I think Murphy has a law for it. 
I do 4000 conversions a year, and my recommendation to a person like you is to take it slow. Not that it is so difficult, but it does take some time and practice. Particularly if your body mounting where it was truck mounted. 
My recommendation is to make some transition cars. These are cars that have the old coupler on one end and a kadee on he other. This cuts down on the number of installs that are required initially. 
Once you get your layout in place and are running trains, you will know how you like to run them and which units need a coupler change. 
In HO, truck mounted couplers do not like to be pushed. They prefer to be pulled. It is a specific weight issue. N scale for instance does not suffer the same issues with truck mounted couplers. If you seldom push your cars with your engines, then it is not an issue for you. Body mounting will require your minimum radius curves to be larger.
Any newly manufactured equipment will have body mounted knuckle couplers, not necessarily Kadee. The other plastic knuckle couplers work with Kadees, so I would not change them out first. The Kadees are much more durable. However, the will break, just not as easy as the other brands. 
Just some input from an experience coupler converter,
Larry


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## jjb727 (Apr 13, 2012)

So that's why those athearn passenger cars always derail...AThearn always puts truck mounted couplers on their heavyweight cars. Hell, i have some annoying times with my Nappa Valley train. Im looking to fix that soon...


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

jjb727, Did you watch my video? If the track is good, cars weight is correct you *CAN* back car with *truck mounted* couplers.


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## jjb727 (Apr 13, 2012)

Yeah, i watched it. Still though, Athearn should have made those cars with body mounted couplers, not truck mounted.


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

The truck mount can go through tighter turns and even better on "S" curves. Most cars do not come with enough weight to them to keep them from derailing.


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## ggnlars (Aug 6, 2013)

Southern is absolutely right. If you increase the weight, it will take care of most of the pushing problems. If you step back, in the old days HO basically had to work on 18 in radius curves. That was all there was. Sectional track with 18 in radius curves. The manufacturers did lots of things to make that happen. Truck mount coupling was one. Pizza cutter flanges, car length and car weight were others. For more realistic models we have moved way from these tricks. Each person has to decide what is best for his RR. 
Larry


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

Athearn is a lower end train, made for smaller layouts. If you want body mounted couplers move up in the price scale. I like the cheep stuff.


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## jjb727 (Apr 13, 2012)

Southern said:


> The truck mount can go through tighter turns and even better on "S" curves. Most cars do not come with enough weight to them to keep them from derailing.


So I guess ill have to open up all 5 cars that I have for the Napa Valley train and add weight to them so that they dont derail? These cars look WEIRD when rolling on anything that isnt 22" or wider.


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## rhfil (Feb 3, 2014)

Should one go by the Micro-Mark recommended weights- 1oz+.5 per inch of body length for HO? That seems very heavy.


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

Kadee also makes a more in-scale (smaller) coupler, almost the same as the #5.....it's the #58. A little more detail as well.......


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## ggnlars (Aug 6, 2013)

That weight recomendation is the NMRA recommended practice. Micro Mark is just following their guidlines.
Larry


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