# How to make this locomotive DCC



## Don-T (12 mo ago)

I bought a Genesis F3 A&B set that is DC. I want to convert them to DCC, preferably with Tsunami2 decoders with sound. This is because my other locos are all Tsunami2. I think this set is DCC ready but I am not sure as this is my first without DCC already installed. I have attached a photo, if it works. Both the A&B units are powered so I will convert both of them. My question is, what do I need in order to convert them to Tsunami2 decoders with sound? Is it a simple swap of the existing board?


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

I don't really know the details of that engine but there's a complete board replacement called the pnp. ( I have one of these). Also a speaker or maybe two. You might also want to consider LEDs and then you'll need some resistors to make sure you don't blow them out which I know from experience. So maybe add in a little wire, solder and soldering iron.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

That looks like a 'light board' but the pic hides the
'near side' details. Is that partially visible 'dark' area
a 'jack' into which you would plug a DCC sound
decoder? Does the box or the bottom of the
loco show the term DCC READY? If not you
would need the expertise of one of our members
who have had experience with this model. They
could guide your conversion.

Don


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## Don-T (12 mo ago)

Severn said:


> I don't really know the details of that engine but there's a complete board replacement called the pnp. ( I have one of these). Also a speaker or maybe two. You might also want to consider LEDs and then you'll need some resistors to make sure you don't blow them out which I know from experience. So maybe add in a little wire, solder and soldering iron.


Thanks for the comment. I think, for now, I will stick with the incandescent lights. I have what I need for soldering so that won’t be a problem. I will need to get speakers, I didn’t think about that. I hope someone can tell me what/how on the decoders.


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## Don-T (12 mo ago)

DonR said:


> That looks like a 'light board' but the pic hides the
> 'near side' details. Is that partially visible 'dark' area
> a 'jack' into which you would plug a DCC sound
> decoder? Does the box or the bottom of the
> ...


Here is another picture that might help. Looking at the picture, the two terminals on the side that was hidden are the leads to the motor. The outer leads on each end appear to be the power form the track, and the center leads on the left side of the picture go to the headlight. I don’t see anything on the loco or the box that says DCC ready.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

You do have a straight DC locomotive that will have to be hard wired for DCC. You will have to make certain the motor is ground-isolated from the chassis and then wire it in.

The wiring diagrams are straightforward with solder pads or wires from solder pads to connect to the wheel pick-up wires and then on to the motor wires. There are also pads or wires to connect the headlight(s) and tail light(s).

The biggest problem usually faced is where to mount the DCC board and the speaker in a DC only locomotive.


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## Don-T (12 mo ago)

MichaelE said:


> You do have a straight DC locomotive that will have to be hard wired for DCC. You will have to make certain the motor is ground-isolated from the chassis and then wire it in.
> 
> The wiring diagrams are straightforward with solder pads or wires from solder pads to connect to the wheel pick-up wires and then on to the motor wires. There are also pads or wires to connect the headlight(s) and tail light(s).
> 
> The biggest problem usually faced is where to mount the DCC board and the speaker in a DC only locomotive.


Thanks, I don’t think adding the decoder will be a big deal. I do need to figure out haw to make sure the motor is not grounded to the frame.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

Don-T said:


> I do need to figure out haw to make sure the motor is not grounded to the frame.


just use a multimeter, better safe than sorry, just takes a couple of seconds


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

There are drop-in light board replacements (they may even have the cutout openings to snap in where the old board snaps out) that are about the same form factor as the factory original (dc only) board you see in your pics.

If you want sound, looks like there's already a space for the speaker to go at the rear of the chassis.

You DON'T have to "solder in" the replacement boards if you don't wish to. They should have the same "prongs with the hole" that you see in the pics you posted.
Just save the small rubber "retaining clips" and re-use them.
I've found that it might be necessary to "re-work" the ends of the existing leads to provide a little more "length" of bare wire.

Also, you ought to "tin the ends" of the wires after "braiding them". This will make them "stiffer" so that the retainers "grab" a bit tighter when you put them back on.

As you look at the board in the pics above, the wiring is simple (which is why I like these longer, drop-in boards):
On either end of the board, the "outermost prongs go to the truck wiring:

f end right side
f end left side
r end right side
r end left side
On the F end, the two "inner" prongs are for the headlight:

positive
negative
The two inner prongs on the R end are bare -- no backup light

The two prongs "in the middle" go to the motor:

positive
negative
I'm going to guess that a sound-equipped board will have two additional prongs for the speaker, positive and ground. Not sure whether these will require solder or not (I don't have any sound-equipped engines).

I'd check all the dcc decoder manufacturers for drop-in boards with sound...


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## Don-T (12 mo ago)

J.Albert1949 said:


> There are drop-in light board replacements (they may even have the cutout openings to snap in where the old board snaps out) that are about the same form factor as the factory original (dc only) board you see in your pics.
> 
> If you want sound, looks like there's already a space for the speaker to go at the rear of the chassis.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info. You just answered all the questions I still had. This won’t be a big deal.


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