# homasote, or sheetrock



## mntbkrguy (Jan 23, 2019)

I'm in the very early stages of my build moving from the annual Christmas loop to something the kids and I can enjoy year round. I have the basic L shape in press-board plywood made and I've read a lot about different options to help deaden the sound from the tracks. From carpet, foam insulation, cork, homasote, and sheetrock. Ii'm leaning toward the sheetrock mainly for first reasons. What are your recommendations and why? 

My plan for tracks is to use a mix of Fastrack and O27. Using the Fastrack on the flat portions and, where the 2nd loop goes to an elevated portion, use 027. I am a little flexible on the choice of track. I have a bunch of the fastrack and have read a lot recommendations on using the O27 mainly because of cost and ease of set up. 

Any advice appreciated. 

Morgan 

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## Maxum (Apr 10, 2017)

I wouldn't use sheetrock. My dad used to use homosote for his layouts. Now we both use soundboard from Home Depot. Comes in 4x8 sheets and cost about $12 a sheet. If homosote gets wet it will swell up. Also pins, tacks, etc stick better to sound board.


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## Spence (Oct 15, 2015)

Forget the sheet rock.:thumbsdown:


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## mntbkrguy (Jan 23, 2019)

Maxum said:


> I wouldn't use sheetrock. My dad used to use homosote for his layouts. Now we both use soundboard from Home Depot. Comes in 4x8 sheets and cost about $12 a sheet. If homosote gets wet it will swell up. Also pins, tacks, etc stick better to sound board.


The Home Depot near me show them as the same thing for $30 a sheet

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## Maxum (Apr 10, 2017)

mntbkrguy said:


> The Home Depot near me show them as the same thing for $30 a sheet
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


This is showing up for $30 at your Home Depot?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-x-48-in-x-96-in-Acoustic-Insulation-Sound-Board-BSNAT85US/207168829


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## Ron M (Mar 18, 2016)

Think about the properties of sheetrock for a second or so. Unless you carefully seal each cut edge and any penetration (think wire to track etc) you will have a source for dust to plague you for as long as the rock is there. Chose a different product. Just a thought.


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## Guest (Feb 4, 2019)

I guess that most who use Homasote do so in order for sound reduction qualities in order to reduce track noise. So they cover the entire layout surface with Homasote. Would the same result be achieved by dealing with the problem directly? 

I have never used Homasote, so I am not expert on it's overall qualities. But I do know how to substantially reduce track noise. In my case, I use Johnson rubber roadbed that uniquely fits O-Gauge tubular track. I have found this product as good as anything I have seen (better said, listened to) in use for this purpose. There is cork and other products that are designed for track noise reduction. 

It would be interesting to learn what our members use for this purpose other than Homasote. 

By the way, drywall, never.


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## laz57 (Sep 19, 2015)

Homesote on my layout. I have 2x4 under the homesote, strong enough for me to crawl over layout. Deadens the sound too,and I do run Fasttrack.


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## Rocky Mountaineer (Sep 19, 2015)

Maxum said:


> This is showing up for $30 at your Home Depot?
> 
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-x-48-in-x-96-in-Acoustic-Insulation-Sound-Board-BSNAT85US/207168829


That particular link shows "unavailable" at my Home Depot in the southeastern portion of PA. However, I know my local Home Depot and Lowes carry 4x8 Homasote and "sound board" for $30/piece.

Lowes also carries a 4x8 Georgia Pacific brand of unfaced cellulose (similar to Homasote but black) for $10/piece -- which is where most of the other sound-boards were priced up until about 5-6 years ago. Ever since having a dedicated home theatre room in residential basements became an up-and-coming trend, the price of various sound-board products shot up into the stratosphere. And sadly, Homasote was one of those.

My railroad uses cabinet-grade plywood, then a layer of indoor-outdoor carpet, followed by cork roadbed textured to look like ballast has been applied, and then MTH ScaleTrax. The result is unbelievably "dead quiet".

If you're looking to use tubular track though, I think Brian's suggestion is an excellent one. 

David


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## mauka (Jul 15, 2013)

laz57 said:


> Homesote on my layout. I have 2x4 under the homesote, strong enough for me to crawl over layout. Deadens the sound too,and I do run Fasttrack.


To Morgan the OP, as an experienced DIY home remodeler, my advice is Sheetrock is not the way to go. It’s heavy, hard to cut, very messy when cut, and easy to damage. Works fine for walls.

Never used homesote because it’s not available in Hawaii. Planning on using it for my layout in Washington State, where it is available for $15 a sheet. 

Encouraging to hear it’s strong enough to crawl on, although I plan to use 1/2” plywood on top of Meannie Benchwork, with homesote on top of the ply.


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## bluecomet400 (Sep 13, 2015)

Stay away from sheetrock for a toy train layout. 

Homasote can be messy as well (but not as much as sheetrock), but once it is in place, its sound-deadening qualities are very good. 

John


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## Yellowstone Special (Jun 23, 2015)

Morgan: No sheet rock, but if you're using Fastrack and 027 track (you'd want a roadbed for the 027), homasote should work well.

I have a relatively small 88 sq. ft. layout in a backward J shape with a 1/2" plywood deck over a 2 x 4 frame, with the homasote on top of the plywood. The Fastrack is anchored to just the homasote, with the shorter wood screws not reaching the plywood. This secures the Fastrack enough and the noise is minimal. Works for me and after 7 years of operation, no problems.


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## Guest (Feb 4, 2019)

I would also recommend not using sheet rock. Homasote is a good product that will work but it's very heavy and difficult to cut to size if not using full 4x8 sheets.

My layout is made in sections of various sizes like 2x3, 1x4, 2.5x4, etc. They were originally designed for an N scale layout and later adapted to O gauge. They are made from 1x4 lumber and covered with 1" think extruded styrofoam. I purposely made them light weight so they could be disassembled and moved. I have moved twice since I used this benchwork and it has moved with me, being reconfigured for the new space available.

For sound deadening I use carpet padding on top of the styrofoam and covered that with Woodland Scenics Ready Grass. The FasTrack isn't screwed down. The track stays together and doesn't move. The carpet padding significantly reduces the sound. I did an experiment with a small piece of carpet padding running a train from the styrofoam onto the padding and back onto the foam and there was a big difference.









This shows the wood benchwork, styrofoam top, carpet padding and vinyl grass mat. It has worked very well for me and I would use it again in another layout.


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## Yellowstone Special (Jun 23, 2015)

Interesting history and makeup analysis of your layout, Joe. Just from looking at the layers, I imagine trains running on your layout are quieter than mine. I was working against a deadline to have the layout done by December 23rd, 2011, for the grand kids to see during the holidays, so ran to Home Depot, brought back 3 4 x 8 sheets of homasote and finished the layout in time. But no regrets.

You may remember a couple of years back I'd added an elevated loop and had 3 trains running, all on Fastrack. The elevated Fastrack loop had a very thin, pressboard road bed and the layout was so noisy with 3 trains running, you couldn't even carry on a conversation, mostly due to the unpadded, elevated Fastrack. So, I took down the elevated loop and what a difference.

If I ever do a redesign, I may follow your example, or at least with carpet padding over the existing homasote.

So Morgan, take note. You may want to do what Joe did.


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

Homasote can be carved to create ditches next to the track. Probably not as easy to carve as rigid foam, but surely a lot easier than sheet rock. This is the GATSME layout a few years ago.


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## Bill Webb (Sep 14, 2015)

We are using homasote atop 3/4” plywood on the first level of our layout and have only good things to say about the homasote. Easy to handle, cut, etc and absolutely no mess. We had heard about all the dust but if you use a knife blade in your saw and not a toothed blade, it cuts easily without dust.

No problem of any kind with it to date.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Fastrack is noisy, particularly when placed on hard flat surfaces like plywood or homosote, unless various means are taking to soften its sound - and it is still not quiet. The noise can get bad with several trains running and big flat surfaces beneath them acting as a kind of resonator board.


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## Scrapiron Scher (Dec 20, 2018)

Nooooooooooo sheetrock !!!!
Homasote is not necessary depending on the type of track and adhesive you use. I used homasote for Atlas O over 3/4" plywood and it was not necessary. You MUST cut homasote with a strightedge blade on the jig saw or you will be breathing particles in your train room for three months. The trick is to use a good foam roadbed material. Vinylbed cuts wayyyy down on the noise but, KEEP in mind, trains are supposed to make noise. Cost is always a big issue, but I am not a big fan of fastrack. Unless it is fastened carefully, the pins can loosen or become bent. The rails look too funny to me (upside down U shapes) and the radii are very limited. As I said, cost is a big factor, but perhaps you can use Atlas O and just break up the payments. I have tested and tried every type of track and I have built three or four major sized layouts. Fastrack is a good low cost option, but as time passes, the low cost fades and the problems are still there.

If possible, delay your starting date and experiment with the different types of track. Do your homework with space and the radii of your curves. Try to avoid the spaghetti bowl syndrome and consider your track a major scenic area on your layout. My $0.02


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## Yellowstone Special (Jun 23, 2015)

Lee Willis said:


> Fastrack is noisy, particularly when placed on hard flat surfaces like plywood or homosote, unless various means are taking to soften its sound - and it is still not quiet. The noise can get bad with several trains running and big flat surfaces beneath them acting as a kind of resonator board.


Well yes, Fastrack probably is the noisiest of all the tracks due to the hard plastic roadbed the rails are mounted in which resonates back the sound. But measures can be taken to soften the sound.

Fastrack is also relatively inexpensive compared to other kinds (except the old-fashioned tubular track), is simple in design, and easy to install. To me it also looks fairly good, snaps together snugly, has various lengths readily available if needed, and is trouble-free if you install it right, wire it right, *and clean it right*, huh Lee?


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## yamawho (Apr 20, 2016)

Maxum said:


> I wouldn't use sheetrock. My dad used to use homosote for his layouts. Now we both use soundboard from Home Depot. Comes in 4x8 sheets and cost about $12 a sheet. If homosote gets wet it will swell up. Also pins, tacks, etc stick better to sound board.


I second the sound board ... it's actually green.
I sealed it with a water based clear to strengthen it.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Yellowstone Special said:


> Well yes, Fastrack probably is the noisiest of all the tracks due to the hard plastic roadbed the rails are mounted in which resonates back the sound. But measures can be taken to soften the sound.
> 
> Fastrack is also relatively inexpensive compared to other kinds (except the old-fashioned tubular track), is simple in design, and easy to install. To me it also looks fairly good, snaps together snugly, has various lengths readily available if needed, and is trouble-free if you install it right, wire it right, *and clean it right*, huh Lee?


It is good -- all the points you make are valid, but quietening it proved difficult for me. I put trememdous work into it and got medocre results. My trainroom was rather accoustically unfriendly and Fastrack made so much nose, even with insulating foam filling the void underneath the track,rubber isolation layers, etc., etc., etc. 

In a way, Simple Green did me a favor. Cleaning it with that ruined it some i had to replace it. The trainroom is much quieter now, so I can hear the locos speakers. Before all I had was the white noise generated by all those wheels on the Fastrak.


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## Yellowstone Special (Jun 23, 2015)

Well, I only mentioned that because I remember you describing your unfortunate experience some time back, with trying to clean your Fastrack with Simple Green, then eventually having to get rid of it. I think we all got a kick out of that one. Glad you found what works for you in your train room. 

You're a good sport, Lee.  :thumbsup:


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## mauka (Jul 15, 2013)

Lee Willis said:


> It is good -- all the points you make are valid, but quietening it proved difficult for me. I put trememdous work into it and got medocre results. My trainroom was rather accoustically unfriendly and Fastrack made so much nose, even with insulating foam filling the void underneath the track,rubber isolation layers, etc., etc., etc.
> 
> In a way, Simple Green did me a favor. Cleaning it with that ruined it some i had to replace it. The trainroom is much quieter now, so I can hear the locos speakers. Before all I had was the white noise generated by all those wheels on the Fastrak.


Aloha Lee - so what track system and base did you end up using?

FasTrack was problematic for me as well, for a different reason, rust! The salt air (2 miles from the beach) started rusting my FasTrack within weeks and nothing stopped it. I closed the windows, installed a window AC, cleaned constantly, and covered the layout when not in use. WD-40 helped slow it down, but may have actually made it worst. Finally ripped it up and took down the layout. Still have the switches and some track packed away.

I have some used nickel silver Realtrax, the solid rail version, but in my new WA home I am ready to try Atlas or Gargraves or?


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## Maxum (Apr 10, 2017)

yamawho said:


> I second the sound board ... it's actually green.
> I sealed it with a water based clear to strengthen it.



The sound board I bought was tan. I bought most of it at Home Depot and a couple of sheets of a different brand from Lowe's. Both were similar in color.


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## Yellowstone Special (Jun 23, 2015)

mauka said:


> Aloha Lee - so what track system and base did you end up using?
> 
> FasTrack was problematic for me as well, for a different reason, rust! The salt air (2 miles from the beach) started rusting my FasTrack within weeks and nothing stopped it. I closed the windows, installed a window AC, cleaned constantly, and covered the layout when not in use. WD-40 helped slow it down, but may have actually made it worst. Finally ripped it up and took down the layout. Still have the switches and some track packed away.
> 
> I have some used nickel silver Realtrax, the solid rail version, but in my new WA home I am ready to try Atlas or Gargraves or?


Mauka (not makai?): I lived on Oahu 30 years, most of it in Mililani. The problem with rusting track over there has more to do with the high humidity all year-round. I found that no matter what kind of track, it would still accumulate rust over a short period of time, requiring constant cleaning and treating.


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## Nikola (Jun 11, 2012)

Wait a minute here, guys! There are so many posts about how to make track appear rusty with painting techniques that would have Mondrian jealous, and here you are with the real thing! I don't see why it would be an issue as long as the tops of the rails are kept clean, and that is not difficult to handle.

Am I missing something?


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## Yellowstone Special (Jun 23, 2015)

Nikola said:


> Wait a minute here, guys! There are so many posts about how to make track appear rusty with painting techniques that would have Mondrian jealous, and here you are with the real thing! I don't see why it would be an issue as long as the tops of the rails are kept clean, and that is not difficult to handle.
> 
> Am I missing something?


Geez, I guess I never thought of that. Good point, Nikola.


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## mauka (Jul 15, 2013)

So you want a good deal on

```

```
some “weathered” FasTrack, got some packed away...


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## mntbkrguy (Jan 23, 2019)

mauka said:


> So you want a good deal on
> 
> ```
> 
> ...


I might be interested 

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## Roving Sign (Apr 23, 2017)

Here's something I did with my Christmas layout - just the cheap flake board painted white and little styrofoam piers. Track is fastened with a pair of zip ties - one is the screw - the other is the "nut"


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

Roving Sign said:


> Here's something I did with my Christmas layout - just the cheap flake board painted white and little styrofoam piers. Track is fastened with a pair of zip ties - one is the screw - the other is the "nut"


+ 1. I was planning on using OSB (e.g., flake board) on my layout build. I don't see the reason to use "furniture grade" plywood after painting and foliage. And I thought OSB's rough side would add a little texture to painted areas.


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## Mike-R (Dec 25, 2016)

The last layout I built using Homasote, my cat seemed to think it was his own personal scratching post. 

For those using the sound deadening board, what's the preferred method for fastening track? Will it support screws securely?


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