# SD70M to SD70MAC



## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

I am attempting to convert my SD70M to an SD70MAC and paint it in the Alaska Railway livery. I build scale models at a professional level, but this is the first time I am attempting a scale train. I will be regularly posting updates to this page, and any of your input will be greatly greatly appreciated. ENJOY!


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## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

Welcome to the forum! Looking forward to seeing your pics as you progress.


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

The base model has been revealed, lots of work to be done. Not sure if I have to extend the body or not.



I'm very happy these parts pop out so easily, i won't have to cut up the body.


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

On the SD70MAC left walkway I noticed it was elevated for a big portion, I used a combination of 0.5mm and 1.0mm styrene to create the elevated walkway.


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

I added a 0.3mm photo etch square grate, this is a protective mesh so that birds won't be able to nest in the exhaust system. 



Looking down into exhaust from above after a quick prime.


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

The body shell has been primed and now you can see the elevated walkway that will be glued to the side. 



The walkway has been added to the shell and is now permanently part of the body. It looks bent because this was taken prior to gluing.


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

Now for the design and production part. Since all of the added pieces are scratch built from styrene sheet, exact measurements are a must. This is a 2-D drawing of the flared section onthe left side of the body that is close to the cab as seen on the Southern Pacific SD70MAC. This will be cut accordingly and bent to form a 3-D piece.




Now after bending and gluing:


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

Added details for the walkway supports:


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

This should be a very interesting thread, will follow closely. 

Magic


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

Thank you for you interest. Any input regarding what I should do will be very much appreciated.


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

The next step is to add the elevated platform that is just aft of the left side cabs rear window. Again more styrene upon styrene. 

These pictures were taken prior to being puttied and sanded down


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

I turned away from the walkway while I wait for the anti-skid flooring to still arrive in the mail. I am focusing on the cab headlights. Incidentally all Alaskan SD70MAC locomotives have the nose headlights, so something has to be done... 

The blade I used to slice out the molded roof headlights was so sharp it cut right through the door framework as I was chiseling out the nose section. After I evened out the sides, I placed two sheets of styrene to act as the new walls of the light housing. You can see where the blade cut through the doorframe


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

I had to use the molded roof headlights as the nose headlights because I had no other master copy. I had to use what Xacto calls their "sharpest blade ever" so sharp it in fact sliced into my finger even when I applied the smallest amount force to remove the headlights. With the soft plastic, the knife cut through the material like butter. I bent a piece of styrene to glue the light fixtures to. 

Once I had the proper sizing done, it was time to insert the new nose headlights. I drilled out the holes to insert the light bulbs in the future. I won't be gluing in this piece until I sand down the styrene to make it flush with the rest of the nose.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Wow

Watching this thread is like watching an artist
paint a portrait. Fantastic work.

Don


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

Now I have to patch up the giant hole in the roof from the previous removal. This will be tricky because I have to make sure that there is enough room for the number boards to be free standing. If it's too hard I'll just remove them completely and scratch build new ones. 

The piece fits well but looks a little uneven on one side. If the putty doesn't help me achieve a flush result I will remove the number boards and make new ones after I finish the cab.


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

As much as I hate cutting up the body, this one detail is imperative! I have to move the emergency brake wheel manifold to the open space next to it.


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

I have removed the manifold and now am moving on to the space next to it. After carefully carving out the section I have finally achieved a desireable result. 

Both sections have been windowed out and are ready to get a makeover!


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

The putty on the cab has dried. I can finally come back to finishing the nose section. I hate jumping around different pieces, but now I can finally finish up the cab once and for all. The nose light is permanently glued in and needs a few more touch ups with the putty and sanding. I also removed the number boards on top because it was just too much to sand around them.


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

The end result is slightly less than up to my standards so I'm going to have to go in again with the putty to seal up the last standing imperfections. However; it looks like an SD70MAC cab now. 

So enough with the cab, it's time to get back to the emergency brake wheel. I am happy to say that it is getting there after an hour of sanding carving and more sanding and carving.


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

This is an update. The SD70M to MAC conversion is coming along very nice. even at only 1/4 completion, you can already see the results. However; being an original SD70M locomotive, I do not wish to alter the length of the actual shell because I would have to change the chassis and powercore, which wouldn't make any sense to do this conversion. I hope you like the progress so far. Please post any comments or inquiries, I look forward to reading them.


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## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

Back in the 60s I used to build model cars, and I'd modify them to look as close as possible to the real NASCAR cars. I'd remove windshield wipers and door handles, I'd remove interior parts, I'd install a gas filler on the left side. To me, that was pretty involved work.

Now then, I begin to understand what MODIFYING means!! This is incredible work, as is some other projects that have been shown on this forum. Wow, I stand in amazement at what you guys do!

Thanks for the pics and explanations. This is wonderful!!


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

Thank you so much for your support. Not many people my age do these kind of projects and I wish more would. Building models are great ways to show off a persons creativity. It's a passion I have. And I thank you and everyone else for showing their support for me. Stay posted on this thread, the detailing is on its way.


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

Fire21 said:


> Back in the 60s I used to build model cars, and I'd modify them to look as close as possible to the real NASCAR cars. I'd remove windshield wipers and door handles, I'd remove interior parts, I'd install a gas filler on the left side. To me, that was pretty involved work.
> 
> Now then, I begin to understand what MODIFYING means!! This is incredible work, as is some other projects that have been shown on this forum. Wow, I stand in amazement at what you guys do!
> 
> Thanks for the pics and explanations. This is wonderful!!


Thank you so much for showing interest in my work. This is only one of many threads to come. Please keep in contact with this thread because I'm just getting started.


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

Painting the cab with the blue shade was the only way to determine if the finished sanded putty result is good. Aside from having a messed up airbrush nozzle that dots instead of paints the surface, you can see that the cab is complete. The finished product looks as if it was molded that way. 

With the minor surface touch ups finished I can now detail the body and prep it for painting, this is the challenging part because I will have to scratch build any outside pieces with brass photo etch.


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

Before proceeding to painting l, I would like to know if you guys would prefer a factory new finish or a slightly weathered finish. This way I can add the weathering effects before I put on the fragile details first so I don't have to worry about weathering around them once they're permanently in.


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## highvoltage (Apr 6, 2014)

I prefer factory fresh, but that's just me. I didn't even know about or consider weathered finishes until I started reading this forum. But to me model railroading is only a part-time hobby until I get a place big enough to set everything up and keep it there.

Your work is very good. I'm not sure I have the patience to do that level of detail. I commend you.


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

highvoltage said:


> I prefer factory fresh, but that's just me. I didn't even know about or consider weathered finishes until I started reading this forum. But to me model railroading is only a part-time hobby until I get a place big enough to set everything up and keep it there.
> 
> Your work is very good. I'm not sure I have the patience to do that level of detail. I commend you.


Much obliged thank you. Stay posted for more


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## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

I appreciate the looks of the weathering that most guys here do, but I'm a bit of a purist, and would like to see a clean finish on your model. I mean, it's a new engine for you...might as well look new!


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

Fire21 said:


> I appreciate the looks of the weathering that most guys here do, but I'm a bit of a purist, and would like to see a clean finish on your model. I mean, it's a new engine for you...might as well look new!


I love building models but I don't have any train set to run this locomotive on. Sadly I won't be keeping it. When I'm finished I'm planning on selling it. I also have a set of 4 Rivarossi passenger cars that I'll be converting to ARR coaches.


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

Painting has begun however the paint isn't cooperating with me and isn't applying itself evenly to the primer. A coat of satin varnish should do the trick and then it's off to the finer details. 
I will be painting the body first with yellow since its a lighter color. Then I'll be painting with gloss blue on for the duration.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Nice detail work. What's the day job Sandro?


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

Cycleops said:


> Nice detail work. What's the day job Sandro?


I'm a full time college student so I don't have a real set in stone job. But I will be graduating with a degree in aviation which I'll use to become a pilot in the airlines.


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

Update 2/4
The entire body has been painted in chrome yellow which is the closest thing to ARR Yellow I was able to obtain at my local hobby shop, yet the color match is almost identical. Once the decals arrive today I will formulate the blue paint to match the ARR blue shade.


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

Decals came in from Microscale today but so far I'm not too impressed with the coloring of the decals. They could almost qualify as black, not the Alaskan blue I was hoping of seeing. I'm wondering if the yellow under color will help lighten the decal from below. 

In addition I am going to attempt one final run with a different shade of yellow. The decal sheet suggests "Turn signal Amber" and if the hobby shop has that shade I'll try it.


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## highvoltage (Apr 6, 2014)

Sandman_Sandro said:


> I'm a full time college student so I don't have a real set in stone job. But I will be graduating with a degree in aviation which I'll use to become a pilot in the airlines.


In your first post you commented:


> I build scale models at a professional level


 That sounds like paid work to me. Is building scale models a part time job? Just curious. You seem to have a high degree of skill.


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

highvoltage said:


> In your first post you commented: That sounds like paid work to me. Is building scale models a part time job? Just curious. You seem to have a high degree of skill.


I display my models around the house. I never thought of selling my models until now that I started my flight training. When I'm not flying or at school I'm almost always at home doing what I love to do; building models. This Alaskan SD70MAC will be for sale but I need to first find a serious buyer since it will be a custom made for the running number decals and corresponding locomotive name.


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## Sandman_Sandro (Aug 18, 2015)

For those of you who have been following my progress so far I would like to let you know that the paint stage is coming along swiftly. In a few days I should be done with the painting and off to decals. As I have said before, stay tuned because I am unveiling my next upcoming project: 

I purchased a set of 4 various coaches from ebay. They are made in Italy by Rivarossi. For the price I paid they were a reasonably good investment. They will be stripped down of paint and refinished in Alaskan RR scheme. All decals on the four passenger cars will be *custom made*. Yes custom made by myself with photoshop to match the exact letters and numbers on the real coaches.


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## broox (Apr 13, 2012)

nice work!


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