# Kitbashing a Korber Model



## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

After my rebuild of the work shop area, I am ready to start my first project. This is a Korber Model called the Kendall Manufacturing Company Background building. It is what we normally call a Flat. Only 1" deep. My layout is located in the center of my basement. One of the problems is creating an appropriate background for viewing purposes. If the layout were located along the walls it would be easy to put up background images. For me, I have to find a way to build my images adjacent to the track and attached to the table without taking up too much table space. (Lord knows I am not going to give up trackage rights!!)

This is my first serious attempt to kitbash a kit. I have built several small kits, but this is going to be much larger and I want to attempt to apply what I have learned in the last few years about lighting and weathering buildings. Korber purchased the Pecos River modeling company when it went under a couple of years ago. They made all kinds of O scale building parts which you could put together in multiple different ways. This is Korber's first sale of these parts. 

The first picture shows the area I am trying to fill. It is the distance up the south side of my layout. I will build this kit 4 stories - 19" high by 40" long and try to fill the area in front of my work bench. The second picture shows the parts which I have taken out to figure out the best placement of. It isn't all that complicated so it should be pretty straight forward, but..... 

Always open to suggestions!!!!! Bring them on.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Cool. I have little experience with Korber models - I bought a used kit at a swap meet and ended up using its parts to modify and bash other kits, and I have none with Pecos River, but they are intriguing. I an very interested in this project.


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

*Weathering*

I am going to spray paint the building Rustoleum Primer Grey to make it look like finished concrete. The windows frames are green, which looks pretty good, so I will spray them with a clear dull cote to rough them up. 

Next I want to weather the grey paint. That brings me to my question. How do you do it? I have heard of using rattle cans to faintly spray over sections and I have heard of using dusting powders where you can lightly feather in the edges and sides. 

I am interested in these dusting powders. I know you can buy them from places like Brennan Products but they aren't cheap. What about women's makeup? Will that adhere and what colors should I get? I looked on Amazon and there are a million makeup items. 

Because I am modeling a Boston area, I would like to grow Ivy on my walls. No clue how to model that, but it certainly would look sweet.... Any suggestions?

Finally, how do you get clear plastic, dull coated for the windows? I have attempted to spray paint them with clear coat in the past but it does very little. I really want a frosted glass look. 

Thanks for your help.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Have you ever experimented with Pan Pastel powders? They are an artists powder and rather messy, and a bit different, but the are not expensive. They take some getting used to. Model train retailers corry them for weathering. Using well they are awesome, but as always they take getting used to a sill you develop like I did - by making some mistakes. An advantage is that hey are removeable although it takes some work (masking tape well applied and peeled works to get 90%+ off). 

I am not saying this is where to buy them, but its where I first ran into them.

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Weathering-Supplies-s/2635.htm 

BTW - they look a lot like face makeup powder like you buy at a cosmetics counter, and I bought and tried some, and it does work but not as well.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I did some "ivy" on walls using a really simple technique that Harry Henning showed me. I used full strength white glue and thinly spread it on the wall in the pattern I wanted the ivy to grow. Then I just sprinkled static grass on the glue generously. What didn't stick was collected and recycled. The net result was really convincing looking ivy growing up the side of the building, I was most impressed with how simple it was.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I did some "ivy" on walls using a really simple technique that Harry Henning showed me. I used full strength white glue and thinly spread it on the wall in the pattern I wanted the ivy to grow. Then I just sprinkled static grass on the glue generously. What didn't stick was collected and recycled. The net result was really convincing looking ivy growing up the side of the building, I was most impressed with how simple it was.


Believe if or not, I did something similar to that only I used dried oregano (with a thin spray of flat clear over it). It looked just like kudzu when done.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I believe it Lee, I'm sure it's not an unknown technique. I freely admit that the artistry side of the hobby is not my strong suit, so I learn from the experts, and I'd count you among that group.  I was just impressed with how easy it ended up being to get some really nice looking ivy on the building.


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

Thank you gentlemen, good starting points. This will be the end of the job, so I have time to order and experiment....


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## WildcatRR (Jul 28, 2013)

*Frosted Windows*

Hi Wood,

I used frosted paper/plastic found at Art/Craft stores. Most have a section in the store where the paper/plastic sheets are located. They come in 8.5"x11" sheets in different colors including clear and frosted. I've used them on buildings and in passenger car windows. All you do is cut them to size and glue or tape in place. They not very expensive and easy to work with. It might be worth a try.

Wildcat


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

Thanks WildcatRR, I have seen those sheets but completely forgot all about it. We have a Michaels right down the road. Thanks!!


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Kits come with clear plastic or I use thing plastic as was used in display blister packs etc for windows. You can use very fine sandpaper (#1000) to frost the inside of them and it looks very realistic.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I did some "ivy" on walls using a really simple technique that Harry Henning showed me. I used full strength white glue and thinly spread it on the wall in the pattern I wanted the ivy to grow. Then I just sprinkled static grass on the glue generously. What didn't stick was collected and recycled. The net result was really convincing looking ivy growing up the side of the building, I was most impressed with how simple it was.


Harry huh?

I guess you don't remember back in the beginning of the year 2012?
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=10498&highlight=round+house


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Wood if you want to try chalk and not spend a bundle on chalk get yourself something like what is in the link below.
There is a thread on techniques to use with the chalk.
Best part if you don't use alcohol in the beginning if you don't like the results you can just wipe it off and try again.
If you like it you just spray with a sealer.

The chalk works well on the train too if you weather your trains. 



http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showpost.php?p=173537&postcount=44


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

big ed said:


> Harry huh?
> 
> I guess you don't remember back in the beginning of the year 2012?
> http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=10498&highlight=round+house


You're right, I didn't remember that thread. Like I said, I doubted it was an original technique, and since I didn't remember that thread, you don't get credit.


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

*Ivy*



> I guess you don't remember back in the beginning of the year 2012?
> http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showt...ht=round+house


Ed - That is awesome. You gotta remember John is a gunrunner not a viral library. Excellent results and exactly like I am looking to do.



> if you want to try chalk and not spend a bundle


I just bought some chalk today. I have used it before and feel comfortable with it. However I have heard so much about the powders I want to try that also. 

There are two pictures below. The first was done by a friend of mine, Alex, and it is the Korber model almost to a T. Alex did add. two more vertical sections to add width.

The second picture is an actual building located in Boston and it will be what I am trying to achieve. Very similar but also enhanced with the roof top structures, the name plate, the lower door entry with a no parking sign and some real age showing up. I won't be able to put the loading entry in because it is a flat and too close to the track. I am adding a fourth floor and will make several Flat roof top structures.

I love the 1960s' Dodge Van. Gotta get me one of those!!


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

Can anyone ID the car in the lower right of the above photo. It is in the shadow of the building with its tail sticking out. I believe this picture was taken around the mid to late 60s. It looks like some kind of GM name plate.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Wood said:


> Can anyone ID the car in the lower right of the above photo. It is in the shadow of the building with its tail sticking out. I believe this picture was taken around the mid to late 60s. It looks like some kind of GM name plate.


What I can see of the side window and roof profile does look GM. But the rear, taillights, and bumper are Chrysler, I think. I tried, but can't google and find an image that matches.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

1968 Dodge Charger


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Wow, John, I googled Chargers but missed that year. I was certain it was a Charger or a roadrunner but didn't find it!

I never had one of these - always wanted a 426 or 440.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I recognized the rear, just had to find a photo that showed it.


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

*Charger*

Thanks, I just happened to spot the vehicle when I was studying the picture for details. Not only the building, but the setting is well worth modeling. This picture really gives a lot of real world specifics to the time frame. Not only is there a building but period cars, signs, roads, etc, etc. I kinda wish this was not a flat and I could give it more room on the layout. 

Nice job John! How great is it to have a community that can come up with answers to unknown problems, no matter how small they are. Thank you.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

That was an easy one, my brother had one of those, so I recognized it.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Wood said:


> Ed - That is awesome. You gotta remember John is a gunrunner not a viral library. Excellent results and exactly like I am looking to do.
> 
> 
> 
> I just bought some chalk today. I have used it before and feel comfortable with it. However I have heard so much about the powders I want to try that also.


You do know that the powder is just chalk pastels?

If you buy powder it will be more expensive because someone took the time to mash it up into powder. But you can do the same thing with the sticks, that is why I suggested using old medicine bottle caps. You shave the chalk sticks and mash it into powder.
All chalk is not the same either, there are better grades of chalk.
If anything it is more convenient buying the powder and they do have it in all the common used RR colors.
But if you shave your own and pulverize it, it is the same thing in the end. Also if buying what I showed in the post ( I think I showed chalk packages in a link in my prior post?) you get a whole bunch of different colors that you won't get in the powdered form. You can also mix colors together to get your own custom colors. 

I did not have the time to explain further last night and I just wanted to get out the ideal of using the chalk. But it looks like you have already used chalk?

I like to use these too, alcohol based,
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showpost.php?p=173531&postcount=42

If you turn your piece upside down you can "drool" on the liquid. Turning the piece upside down produces the effects that real weathering leave.
You can use them on your trains too if you like that sort of thing.

I did this N scale locomotive a while back, and after Hurricane Sandy roared through NJ, I added weathering as it made a run to the Jersey shore with supplies. 
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showpost.php?p=173477&postcount=39
I think I may have gone a little too far. 
But that one had a broken step and I do have a few more of those locomotives.
I like the results....that is all that matters to me.

I am no way an expert on weathering, and I can't seem to bring myself to weather any O.
I can do HO and N but I can't seem to bring myself to do any O?:dunno:
But I do read a lot about it, and look at other people's work and I always am keeping my eyes opened to real weathered things I see during my travels.

One thing I like about using the chalk or powder if you don't like it you can wash it off and try again before you seal it.
And speaking of sealing, you don't want to spray the sealer on like you would paint a train.
You sort of have to stand back and let the spray float down onto the item. If you spray it on directly you will mess up the chalking by blowing some away.

I have some bookmarked sites that are an excellent read on the subject, they do a much better job explaining it than I can.


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

> Originally posted by Ed:
> 
> You do know that the powder is just chalk pastels?


Well, No I didn't!! I guess if I thought about it, maybe it would have come to me. 

Excellent information. I will be following your comments on this and looking forward to applying them. Thank you...


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Hmm, at least I always thought that.
I looked a little further and there might be a difference.
Some of the other sites made me believe that chalk was all the powder is after mashed up.

Pigments......this site explains it better.

copy and paste,
Powders vs. Chalks
Weathering powders and chalk are completely different products. Powders are made
from real rust and other natural pigments that have been ball milled to a particle size
over 100 times finer than chalk and blended with a pressure sensitive, dry adhesive.
Chalk definition: Chalk is specially designed to be dustless, non-toxic, and used on
smooth surfaces. It does not contain binding agents and is meant to be easily wiped
away. Drawing chalk, on the other hand, contains an oil binder. Meant to adhere to
paper and sidewalks, drawing chalk is not meant for chalkboards and may be difficult
or impossible to completely erase. Pastel chalk is another name for pastel crayons
and shouldn’t be confused with drawing chalk. 

It says real rust is used. 
I always thought that the powder was just pulverized pastel chalk?
I guess I am wrong? Though I think the pastel chalk works great, I will have to further investigate powder now.

Read through this if you want, I go to hit the sack. Real early start tomorrow 1:30 am!
They say the customer will be there at 6:00 am. I doubt it but maybe they want to get an early start to the holiday. I hope, it will put me back home earlier too.
Got a hot load of 7000 gallons of xylene, for Sherwin Williams Paints.

The link, http://div8-mcr-nmra.org/site/clinic/IntrotoPowdersClinic.pdf


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

This thread is turning into a real learning experience... So the Tanker Yanker thinks he made a booboo, oh well probably not the first and definitely won't be the last. Thanks for the follow-up because I read those articles and added to my limited knowledge base. Good luck with the xylene. (And, yes I checked your profile.)


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

*Paint night*

All of the exterior parts have been trimmed out and painted. I used Rustoleum flat grey Primer. I ordered some exterior parts to enhance the model and hopefully this weekend I will be able to start assembly.


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## WildcatRR (Jul 28, 2013)

*Kit Bashing*

Hi Wood. You are really moving along with your project. I like the pics of your progress. Can't wait to see the finished product.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Wow, wood! You have a regular production line going. This is a big project. Very cool.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Cruising along Wood, we look forward to the finished product.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Wood said:


> This thread is turning into a real learning experience... So the Tanker Yanker thinks he made a booboo, oh well probably not the first and definitely won't be the last. Thanks for the follow-up because I read those articles and added to my limited knowledge base. Good luck with the xylene. (And, yes I checked your profile.)


Yes, not the first and definitely not the last.

That is what I always thought, I guess I never really researched chalk/powder much.
Now I got to get some powder to try. More $$$$$.

Though I think the pastel chalk works nice, the powder sounds like it is better to use, as it adheres better then the chalk.

What ever you use you see the parts where it says if the item your weathering won't be touched and is just going to be sitting there on the layout there is no need to seal it.
It says that for both chalks and powders. 
And I know with the chalk if you do seal it the spray will take some of the chalk off so you want to apply it a little heavier to account for the loss.


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

*Update & Cleaver Models*

I have finished most of the structural parts. Due to my changes, I am short one window and window wall. Ordered from Korber and I hope it will arrive early this coming week.

As suggested in the instructions I painted all of the parts before assembly. I won't do that again because I am uncomfortable with the gluing of the joints. I had to scrape all the joints clean so I would get a good glue bond. It would have been a lot easier to paint as I go, finish a component and then paint.

I also found an old fashion wood rasp is the best way to clean off the edges and mold tabs left behind. 









In my spare time, I decided I wanted to put up an industrial style brick Chimney. I searched the internet and found a resin chimney that was 6" too small for $75.00. Ouch!!! 

For years I have been looking at card stock models. A guy by the name of Dave Miecznikowski owns a website called Cleaver Models. I like what he does but have never purchased any buildings or structures. Don't you know he has a 20" high brick chimney. It's a FreeBee. So I downloaded it and began my new endeavor in card stock modeling. Very good information is provided by Dave. I downloaded his "Please read this first..." 13 page how to tutorial which is one of the best tutorials I have ever read. Then I began construction. You download a PDF then use a heavy weight card stock material and print his PDF files. You simply cut the images, clean fold the edges and glue together.

The avertage cost of these items is $5.00 - $15.00. My design was free but I gave a $20.00 donation to the site and I purchased a couple of the suggested tools at Michaels and spent another $32.00. Total cost $52.00 and I have the tools to continue in this modeling format. It took me a grand total of 2 hours to produce this chimney. I like it.

Let me know if you have ever done any card stock modeling and how did it work out.


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## WildcatRR (Jul 28, 2013)

*korber project*

Wow Wood you are one busy beaver. Smokestack looks great. You're right I'm a fan of paint as you go too. It seems a lot easier and you don't have to worry about the glue joints.


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

*Loading Dock*

No parts arrived today from Korber so tonight's task was to make a loading dock. It is scale 4' high by 8' deep and 132' long. The length makes it run across the front of the building with the exception of the last 24' which will be the office and customer entrance. I used some light weight birch, 1/8" thick, and built a honey comb support system for the underneath. I glued it all with gorilla super glue, spackled some joints and spray painted with a tan finish. I probably will spray it with some grimy black tomorrow.

I am getting ready to have this project finished so I can move on. Waiting for parts is a pain. Can any one identify with that???


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

You are making good progress. 132' long is a nice long one. It ought to look really good!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

That will be an impressive creation when done!


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## Guest (Jul 7, 2015)

Wood, your loading dock looks great! Where did you purchase the 1/8" birch and in what size sheets is it manufactured?


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

> Posted by Southernrr:
> 
> Where did you purchase the 1/8" birch and in what size sheets is it manufactured


Thanks for your comment. I bought mine from Michaels. It is available in 36" long sheets by 12" and 4" wide. Balsa and Birch.


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## Guest (Jul 7, 2015)

Thanks Wood!


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

No parts again! 

I weathered the loading dock. I think I am going to get some window screen rib material, paint it black and run it along the outside edge for a bumper effect.

I built a Masonite base for the building and adjacent road. I have used Masonite for most of my roads. It gives a good base surface which I can subsequently put on sidewalks, street lights and road markings. The only thing it is weak on is not being able to weather it with pot holes and cracked pavement. This would be the ideal spot for that. Any suggestions for weathering Masonite surfaces????


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Wood - how is the thin birch to work with? I use a lot of balsa, basswood, and poplar in scratch-building, but not too much birch and then only veneer as he top layer of wood at least 3/8 inch thick. Is it at all brittle, splintery, or hard to work?


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

*Birch*



> Lee Posted:
> 
> how is the thin birch to work with? I use a lot of balsa, basswood, and poplar in scratch-building, but not too much birch and then only veneer as he top layer of wood at least 3/8 inch thick. Is it at all brittle, splintery, or hard to work?


Lee, I purchased this from Michaels and it is called Birch Plywood. So it is a composite. It comes in 36' lengths and multiple thickness from 1/2" down and you can buy any number of widths, from 12" on down. 

For me it worked quite well. I bought 12" wide by 1/8" thick and used a bandsaw to cut. No splintering very little edging and what there was, I cleaned up nicely with a rasp. It is a little hard to cut with a razor knife. You have to do a lot of cross cutting. For small cuts I used a hacksaw with a metal cutting blade. (I also used a metal cutting blade on my bandsaw.)

I don't like to use Balsa because it is simply too lightweight and you risk damage to your hard work.


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

I'll be visiting one of my dear friends in Maine and enjoying his wonderful layout. I'll post some pictures when I get back next week. But, no parts from Korber so I could not update anything until they arrive. But, I'll be back.....


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

*Update*

Sometimes this is the reason why I hesitate to start a thread. Will I ever get the dang project finished??? Life keeps getting in the way.... 

I have been waiting for parts from Korber and I am off on another trip next Saturday. Well the parts came today and I am going to make every effort to finish this by the end of the weekend. 

In the meantime I prepared the area under and in front of the building so when I am finished I can just put it in place. Below you will see the original area where I am putting the building and what I have done to give it a realistic looking base. I built a road and lined it with pinstriping and some street lights. I use masonite for my roads because it is easy to work and it fits in with my adjacent road. The only weak side to masonite is that it is hard to weather and this area will be on the wrong side of the tracks so it needs to be beaten up a little.

Enjoy and I am always open to suggestions....


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Waiting can be difficult but it looks like it will be worth it. Nice road and markings!


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## Guest (Jul 18, 2015)

I am very impressed, Wood. The elevated tracks are sensational and I love what you have done with the roads. Looks superb!!!!!!!!!!!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The elevated tracks are great, and this road brought a smile to my face. Stop ahead, INDEED!


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

*Assembled*

I made a lot of progress this weekend. Below you will see pictures of the completed front. I finished the construction and now await my lighting so I can put it in place on the layout. 

The first pic is the back of the assembly where I added basswood cross members to reinforce the length. The next is the finished front with windows installed. I cut one of the panels to provide an office door and an over head window. Next you will see the install of sanded plastic sheets for the window of which I thank all of you for your suggestions. Finally the front is finished. I also have a picture of the signage I will be putting on top of the building.

In closing I have learned a great deal doing this project and I will pass on to you that the Korber models are very easy to build, they have great directions, the pieces are very well made and fit together nicely. My one concern is that I am very unsure of the way this will fit on my layout. It simply looks too big.  I am going to install but I may remove the 4th floor and see if I can scale it down to give my eye a better feel for it's relationship to the whole layout. This is not a Korber issue. These kits are built to scale. It is my issue because I have my own view of how my layout looks. The very last picture will show you what I am talking about. I propped the front up, it is not permanently installed.

I'll keep you posted and I'll take any advice given.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

That's an impressive building, can't wait to see the finished result.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Now that does look really good. Nice, big, realistic building. Pretty cool, Wood.

I can't wait to see the sign up, etc., too. A very impressive building.


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

*Interior Lights*

Check off!! One more step tonight - Interior Lights. Ultimately I will have 12 gain of wheat lights. There will be 8 interior and 4 exterior. Even though I have been using lots of LED lights I used grain of wheat bulbs because they are a much softer light and more typical for an industrial building like this. I am running them with 12v DC current and rigged them in parallel to prevent loss of voltage.


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## WildcatRR (Jul 28, 2013)

*Kit Bash Korber*

Wood, awesome my friend! Can't wait to see the finished product. You Rock!!!


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Thank you for the photos and descriptions of the details. This is a very interesting project. I understand why you are using grain of wheat incandescent - LED's tend to be a bit blue and I have done the same thing in places. I see you are using one of the old Life-Like/AHM/Bachmann/Minitoy DC power supplies for the lights. I have a ton of these for lighting and they are great because they are small, cheap, and you can adjust the voltage to set the lighting just like you want.


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

WildcatRR said:


> Wood, awesome my friend! Can't wait to see the finished product. You Rock!!!


Thanks WildcatRR - I am looking forward to getting together next month. My 2055 is my next project and I'm counting on your help.


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

> Lee posted: I see you are using one of the old Life-Like/AHM/Bachmann/Minitoy DC power supplies for the lights. I have a ton of these for lighting and they are great because they are small, cheap, and you can adjust the voltage to set the lighting just like you want.


Cheap, Oh Yeah! I bought 6 of them, used, from my Hobby shop manager for $15.00. They don't have too many watts of power but can be located where you need them.

I like lights on the layout. My guess is their are currently 70-80 lights. I have begun using DC to power most of my lights and accessories. Along with the used DC power supplies I bought a 12vDC power supply on Amazon for ~$20.00 and it has 350 watts of power. I centrally located it under my layout and attached it to a couple of bus bars and have hooked up almost all of my lights. It takes the pressure off the AC transformer which now mainly provides track power.


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

*Lights*

Oops! I just did a quick count and I'm at 178 lights on the layout


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## Guest (Jul 21, 2015)

I just tuned into this project. Very impressive. The Rhode Island guys do have talent. :smilie_daumenpos:


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

*A Wrap!!!*

This is a wrap. The front is lighted and installed. I still have several small details to add - a fire escape, roof top AC units, workers, parking spots and some trucks. But, I am at a closing spot here. 

This was designed to be a front on the edge of my layout, which is centered in my basement. The reason for a front was to hide the background walls, benches, beer coolers and whatever to give the layout operation a nice appearance. I think this works. I used a 1/4" piece of plexiglass to hold up the front and painted it dark. I will add several more fronts to the left side of it to hide the plexiglass. I am going to use my other new find "Cleaver Models" and do cardboard cut outs of industrial buildings. 

In summary on Korber Models, I would highly recommend going to their website. The product is very nice, well documented and durable. I have no qualms about this model falling apart anytime soon. One of their options I will utilize in the future is purchasing parts so I can build my own buildings to fit the exact dimension I need.

Thanks to all of you who offered suggestions, I utilized many of them.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Wow. that is a great looking building. I like he lighting, Wood. The way it comes through the windows, positioned non-uniformly back behind it (as in the real world) makes it look like there are big areas of activity/equipment inside that building. Very nice touch. Your photos are great too. The last above is a work of art.

But about the purpose of this building -- "to hide the . . . beer coolers . . . " As long as people remember where they are, that's okay. We must keep our priorities in the train-room. Seeing a beer cooler when you expect a detailed layout would be a bit disconcerting, not being able to find it because it is hidden too well would be downright catastrophic!


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## PatKn (Jul 14, 2015)

Great looking building. The random lighting behind the windows looks very realistic. I like the street too. :thumbsup:


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

That's fantastic, nice piece of work!


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

*1968 Charger*

Thanks so much Pat, Lee and John. I am pretty happy with it. 

Bye the way John, I am going to park a 1968 Charger right next to the office entry door.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Wood said:


> Bye the way John, I am going to park a 1968 Charger right next to the office entry door.


I should certainly hope so!


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## Chugman (Jun 17, 2015)

Fantastic building! Thanks for letting us watch your progress.

Art


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

Thank you Chugman, Nice to hear from you. You are the second pleasant surprise today. Enjoy the site.


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## FVTrains (Jun 19, 2015)

I really like what you have done with your kitbash, Wood. I picked up several pieces of flats from Korber at York this past April, but I have only managed to get one together thus far. My "Tri State Manufacturing" building is far smaller than yours! The lighting is superb, and the placement on your layout really makes it a great scene.

:appl:

Bruce


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

Thanks Bruce, I understand "I've only managed..." For me, I need a window of time to get things done and when I get that time I slam it all out in this fury of activity. I am happy about completing this section. As I described earlier in the post, I am trying to surround my layout with scenery to give it some borders. My layout is centered on the floor and you walk around it to observe the action. I operate from a "T" shaped walkway dead in the middle. By building borders I hope to achieve a sense of recreating a real section of real estate.

Like you I am relatively new to this train forum so welcome. I have enjoyed meeting many of the members. I live in RI and have already befriended a couple of people locally and I have received some great information that helped me on this project. So, join in and share some of your projects.


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## Rich883 (Jul 15, 2015)

Wood,

Very nice custom job on this kit. It is a nice view block as you outlined.

Thanks for the purchase and the kind works. We are honored to be part of your layout.

Best regards

Rich @ Korber Models,


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

> Posted by Rich883: Thanks for the purchase and the kind works. We are honored to be part of your layout.
> 
> Best regards
> 
> Rich @ Korber Models,


Thank you Rich. You made it rather easy with your well designed product and rapid response to my questions. Thank you for supporting our hobby!


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