# Thinking of dumping e-z track



## pat_smith1969 (Aug 21, 2016)

One of my first posts.. someone suggested I dump the e-z track and go with another track type. 

I had gotten a good bunch of e-z track and wanted to try to "stick it out". The son liked taking it apart and putting it back together. 

Since day one I have had issues with the turn outs. Both my engines and all my cars would bump and trundle over the turn outs, you can literally seen the raise up and settle back down. My 0-6-0 actually gets stuck where the little wheels spin but they are not touching the rails enough to get traction. That engine has a scrape mark in the center of the bottom where it is skidding over the frog section.

I spent two hours today determined to fix the turn outs (I have 6 and they all are crappy).. but taking very careful look, I will have to do a LOT of filing to make the plastic frogs lower than the rail.. also the metal portion that slides back and forth.. while it works well and is snug against rail.. it too is higher than the track.

SO what track is considered a good quality track that is not too expensive? I am told the Kato track is good but it seems ungodly expensive.. Should I go with the track/ballast again or go with separate track and cork board?

Maybe I will use the ez track for designing and layout.. then use another track for the actual install.. that might work..or maybe I will burn the e-z track and get enjoyment oout of it that way.


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## 3.8TransAM (Jan 13, 2016)

lol

If your going to burn it, just send it to me

I use it for my test track.

Peco or Walther/Shinohara turnouts are probably the best out there start getting a little expensive if you need them all at once.

Some folks love the Atlas turnouts too though.

Flex track/cork and using any of the above turnouts will give you much more freedom than any "one piece" track will.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

I agree with TransAM, especially the mention of Atlas.


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## bluenavigator (Aug 30, 2015)

You can keep the EZtracks for your son. At least, he does enjoy taking them apart and put them together. Nothing wrong with that. 

It is true that Kato tracks are good but limited to what can be put together. 

Peco/Atlas are always a battle. The only major drawback is that Atlas does not make curved turnouts like Peco and other brands do. I have Peco curved turnouts. They are quite nice and more prototypical. I am working on Atlas turnouts to be more prototypical because of these rivets that I do not like.


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## time warp (Apr 28, 2016)

Track and switch questions are always somewhat polarizing. Lots of threads and posts, as well as opinions on the matter.
Comes down to two things really, affordability vs. performance.
I have used Atlas switches and track for decades. I use sectional track. Works for me.
I'm old school though, I use cork roadbed also.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

If you are going to use track with roadbed, stay with your EZ track. Yes kato is better
but a lot more expensive. Work on your turnouts and you can take pride when you
get them working better. Sand the frog down and file the points (points are the rails that
move back and forth). Your EZ track is fine for putting a floor layout down and then
taking it up before mom blows her top. When you build your layout (with wood) use
flex track over cork. The flex track comes 36". Then you can use any brand of turnout you want. I think most people use atlas flex track. It is good. Again, peco is good track
and again, it costs more. I use atlas turnouts and atlas track. Peco turnouts are better,
but costs more. Less trouble with peco turnouts, but you can work on the atlas ones
and they will work. This is all just my opinion.

I think peco turnouts are over $20 each. I have bought atlas best turnouts for $7, brand new in package,
off ebay. To me that's a big difference.

Only sand your frogs down to where they don't hit bottom of your locos. The frog does serve a purpose.


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## Chip (Feb 11, 2016)

I went the same route, gave the e-z track to a newb as a starter set and became a "hero"!
I have a mix of European and American sectional and flex and it all plays well together, my turnouts are mostly Atlas and they needed a wee bit of work but perform like champs now. FROGS were needing some sanding but after "tuning" no trouble. I found some Yugoslavian and Austrian turnouts at a Garage sale and THEY are FANTASTIC! Very high quality. Get what you can where you can, my best deals were not found on the interweb!
I have some Italian flex track that does not "flex" pure straight 36' pieces that were in a box lot at an auction, weird but it is excellent track


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## mjrfd99 (Jan 5, 2016)

Atlas Flex w/cork roadbed here. Atlas turnouts also [tuned up, a few need that] I've been given a bunch of HO stuff over the years. Had hand fulls of Atlas brass re-railer tracks 
We put them in the tunnels where not seen and they prevent/correct derails in those remote locations.
Maybe you can still use the EZ with your new track choice in a similar way.


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## Chip (Feb 11, 2016)

BRILLIANT use of re-railers!


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## time warp (Apr 28, 2016)

Flex track Works beautifully plus you get instant easements into your curves. I used sectional track because it has so many joints in it and I like the clickity-clack sound! But I'm not normal.


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## RT_Coker (Dec 6, 2012)

pat_smith1969 said:


> One of my first posts.. someone suggested I dump the e-z track and go with another track type.
> 
> I had gotten a good bunch of e-z track and wanted to try to "stick it out". The son liked taking it apart and putting it back together.
> 
> ...


Not trying to talk you into staying with E-Z track, but if you need to replace you turnouts I am selling a bunch on eBay under “rt_coker” (I am leaving the hobby). 

My experience with them has been that the turnouts get a lot of unjustified blame for the Bachmann coupler-tip-pins being too low on the Bachmann cars. After checking and adjust my trip-pins with a slight downward pressure on the couplers and using the better “Silver Series” cars, I was able to run three-locos with ~40 freight cars.

For your information, there are (or were) a lot of post on the “manufactures” forum about a bunch (or is that a batch) of Bachmann 0-6-0 locomotives “dragging-their-bottoms”.

P.S. Thanks for an excuse to promote my eBay sales!
Bob


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## Chip (Feb 11, 2016)

time warp said:


> Flex track Works beautifully plus you get instant easements into your curves. I used sectional track because it has so many joints in it and I like the clickity-clack sound! But I'm not normal.


LOL! MEE TOO! When I switched to all metal wheels the "clickety-clack" was MAGICAL! No going back to plastic, I now have hundreds of axels with plastic wheels on em, great for "live loads" in an open hopper car!


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## pat_smith1969 (Aug 21, 2016)

I have a vested interest in staying with e-z track, if I can get them to work correctly. In the last three weeks I am approaching $800 invested. Which compared to most of you is not a lot of investment.. but it has been spent in a short time. 

I will try to file what I can and see. I might pick up some atlas turnouts and kinda hodge-podge then with the e-z track and see if I get better results. 

Do the Atlas turn outs come with the mechanism that switches the track like the e-z track does? or is that separate. I know some people like to put an under table switch in, but that just seems a bit much for me (for now).. I don't mind a big plastic mechanism next to my turnouts (I can always glue a bush to the top of it to hide it).


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## pat_smith1969 (Aug 21, 2016)

RT Coker
I looked at your ebay items.. you have some real nice stuff there. I especially liked the DCC controller, it is at a good price too. Have you had good luck with it? Did you find it did everything you wanted it to do? I will have to do some research on it. I had wanted to stay with DC as I like the challenge of wiring it to get it to do what you want.. but I really want sound. 

Like I said I just got into the hobby and am $800 into it already so I am not really chaffing at the bit to spend more. .. 

But then again.. $130 of that $800 is a beautyful Bachmann 2-8-4 DCC loco that is un-decaled... so I can turn it into a DM&IR loco.. which my family (5 of them) worked at all their lives in Northern MN.


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## time warp (Apr 28, 2016)

pat_smith1969 said:


> I have a vested interest in staying with e-z track, if I can get them to work correctly. In the last three weeks I am approaching $800 invested. Which compared to most of you is not a lot of investment.. but it has been spent in a short time.
> 
> I will try to file what I can and see. I might pick up some atlas turnouts and kinda hodge-podge then with the e-z track and see if I get better results.
> 
> Do the Atlas turn outs come with the mechanism that switches the track like the e-z track does? or is that separate. I know some people like to put an under table switch in, but that just seems a bit much for me (for now).. I don't mind a big plastic mechanism next to my turnouts (I can always glue a bush to the top of it to hide it).


800 is a lot, for anybody.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

time warp said:


> 800 is a lot, for anybody.


Well, I've probably spent 3 times that, but that's on 3 different layouts and stretched out over almost 15 years.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

pat_smith1969 said:


> I will try to file what I can and see. I might pick up some atlas turnouts and kinda hodge-podge then with the e-z track and see if I get better results.
> 
> Do the Atlas turn outs come with the mechanism that switches the track like the e-z track does? or is that separate. I know some people like to put an under table switch in, but that just seems a bit much for me (for now).. I don't mind a big plastic mechanism next to my turnouts (I can always glue a bush to the top of it to hide it).


You should be able to correct most of the deficiencies with a file or a sanding drum on a rotary tool (just be careful with those -- you can remove a lot of material in a hurry).

Atlas turnouts come in two flavors, "remote" and "manual". The "remote" ones come with a twin coil solenoid for moving the points, although you still have to wire them to some "momentary" push button to operate them.

You can also mix track types. If you cut off the plastic piece that joins the roadbed sections, and mount another brand of turnout on a piece of homasote or plywood at the correct height, you can use standard rail joiners to connect them. Just be aware that every manufacturer's turnouts have slightly different geometry, so a different turnout won't be a drop-in replacement. Also, the EZ track turnouts have the divergent leg as 10 degrees of an 18" circle, whereas most higher quality turnouts have a more prototypical straight or very gently curved diverging leg.


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## time warp (Apr 28, 2016)

The remote Atlas do come with a controller


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## ftauss (Sep 18, 2012)

I have a bunch of black EZ track, which was really just for "playing" for now. I couldn't bear buying any more of it cuz of the not so nice look. The gray EZ looks better but I agonized over it, instead I went to Atlas True Track for sectional. I also have a bundle of Atlas flex.

So far the True Track, for what I've done has worked. 

I did have a nice little layout on a ping pong table using the black EZ track and honestly I could find nothing to complain about with the switches (the manual ones would be a b*tch to upgrade to remote) or anything else. I mixed them with Atlas sectional and switches for a yard (it takes up less room then the equivalent of the EZ track yard).

I agree that trimming the ends of the plastic bases would allow you to make your own conversion track, soldering the rails together would probably be best.

The big deal might be the code of the rail. I think "standard" rail (EZ track, etc) is code 100. The True Track is 83. Looks a bit better. You can still bridge them, my understanding is that prototype high speed mainline is heavier then yard rail and maybe mixing it that way would work. I don't think selling the black EZ track would net me much, I might just use it for staging.


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## pat_smith1969 (Aug 21, 2016)

I was planning on doing 100 series rail. From what I read they might be a bit less "de-railable". While the 83 is a bit more realistic I am willing to give up a small amount of realism to get as bullet proof of a setup as I can. 

This attitude might be the result of the terror and trauma the Bachmann E-Z track turnouts have caused me in the last two weeks. Luckily I have found a good therapist and should make a full recovery in a few years.


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

ftauss said:


> I have a bunch of black EZ track, which was really just for "playing" for now. I couldn't bear buying any more of it cuz of the not so nice look


As has been pointed out before, there is more to the difference of black EZ track vs grey EZ track than just the look......the grey EZ track's rails are nickel silver, whereas the black EZ track rails are steel.....nickel silver is much better....better conductivity, stays cleaner, etc. 

That's why the grey is more expensive as well.....


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## RT_Coker (Dec 6, 2012)

pat_smith1969 said:


> RT Coker
> I looked at your ebay items.. you have some real nice stuff there. I especially liked the DCC controller, it is at a good price too. Have you had good luck with it? Did you find it did everything you wanted it to do? I will have to do some research on it. I had wanted to stay with DC as I like the challenge of wiring it to get it to do what you want.. but I really want sound.
> 
> Like I said I just got into the hobby and am $800 into it already so I am not really chaffing at the bit to spend more. ..
> ...


Pat,
I assume by “DCC controller” that you are talking about the Dynamis. It uses by-directionally IR between the handset and the base that can be very frustrating at times (not a lot of range and difficult to keep pointed in the right direction). Other than that I was satisfied with the unit for its sale price. I typically turned the base in the direction I wanted to operate from. Be careful about putting too much new money into DCC, it is technologically very outdated.

BlueRail’s Bluetooth (not recommended buy me) can give you sound on DC.
Bob


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## pat_smith1969 (Aug 21, 2016)

I was looking at the ring engineering RF controller...color pictures on the unit..all the bells and whistles (literally). Cost is $300. 

That is my "someday" upgrade... gotta get my train around the track more than twice without derailment first.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk


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## pat_smith1969 (Aug 21, 2016)

I spent a solid two hours last night (was watching baseball at the time) going over one turnout with a file. 

I have three problems that I can see.
1. My small engine is too low, it's belly rubs as it passes over the turnout and gets hung up. I can see scratches on it where it has done this in the past. I tried to file down the metal rails in the center of the track that makes the engine turn (not the movable points but the other rails that guide the engine to the turn and not straight. That might have helped a little but to get them low enough I would have to file them down the the point of uselessness.

2. In the plastic part of the frog there is a V.. Where that V starts there is a space... on all my turnouts that space is fairly large and you can see the wheels actually "Dropping down" into that space. This disrupts the smoothe operation of the wheels and at least contributes to derails. I cannot fix this as I have no way to make the void in front of the V portion not be too large. 

3. My large loco derails also, though it does not rub it's bottom. It is a 2-8-4. I think the issue here is that the turnout is too sharp for that large of an engine. Most recommend for this large of an engine that the minimum turn is 22 and these turnouts are 18. 


Conclusions.. My cheap loco kind of sucks, too low. My nice loco is too large for a 4x8 layout (now in the process of making a 5x8). And e-z track turnouts are a bit too sloppy.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

*Dumping EZ Track?*

I'm not saying a word.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Cycleops said:


> I'm not saying a word.


You just did. 5 of them in fact!

OK, _technically_ you typed them, but still.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

pat_smith1969 said:


> I spent a solid two hours last night (was watching baseball at the time) going over one turnout with a file.
> 
> I have three problems that I can see.
> 1. My small engine is too low, it's belly rubs as it passes over the turnout and gets hung up. I can see scratches on it where it has done this in the past. I tried to file down the metal rails in the center of the track that makes the engine turn (not the movable points but the other rails that guide the engine to the turn and not straight. That might have helped a little but to get them low enough I would have to file them down the the point of uselessness.
> ...


Well, unfortunately, you're not too far off, at least as far as the locos go. It's likely that your cheap loco won't work on anybody's turnouts, and I wouldn't wreck perfectly serviceable turnouts for the sake of a bad loco. And you're absolutely right in your conclusion on your steamer -- although except for curved turnouts, better quality turnouts aren't actually curved. The diverging track comes off at a straight angle determined by the turnout # (so on a #4 turnout, the diverging leg moves the loco sideways 1" for every 4" forward).

As far as #2 goes, you're not entirely correct. You can use small pieces of styrene to fill these voids, but it's fiddly work, and a lot like putting $30k worth of custom parts on a Hyundai. You're just better off using better turnouts.


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## pat_smith1969 (Aug 21, 2016)

So I played hookie for a bit today at lunch.. went to the local hobby store... don't tell my boss.

What I discovered is something that most of you probably already know from years of experience...
When comparing the difference in the frogs between the Peco, Atlas, Backmann grey, and backmann black there is a huge difference in the void area right at the V of the frog (all the tracks were of similar turnout number except the Bachmann black as it doesn't have a number). 

To make a long story short the Peco (around $35 for a turnout and motor) had a very precise frog with very little void in front of the V. The Bachmann black had a huge void as I mentioned. The Atlas had something in the middle.. a little void but not as much as Bachmann black. 

What was surprising to me was that the Bachmann Grey had a turnout similar to the Peco as far as the the frog area goes. Comparing the two Bachmann was night and day. So as said above there is a big difference between the black e-z track and the grey.. but it is not only the composition of the rails but in the quality of the turn out. 

Also the Bachmann grey had a couple different choices of turn out angles.

I purchased enough atlas flex and snap track to complete my current build, turnouts and all. 

I will probably ebay my e-z track... well I will keep enough to make a ring around the christmas tree.. that is cool.


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## Mr.Buchholz (Dec 30, 2011)

Am I the only one that likes EZ track and rarely has any problems with it? A derail on my layout is rare, and because I have a rerailer on the far side of my layout, if some wheels do slip, it pushes them back on. There has been the odd instance where I've had to take a section of track out to balance it, but I otherwise have little issue.

-J.


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## time warp (Apr 28, 2016)

Mr.Buchholz said:


> Am I the only one that likes EZ track and rarely has any problems with it? A derail on my layout is rare, and because I have a rerailer on the far side of my layout, if some wheels do slip, it pushes them back on. There has been the odd instance where I've had to take a section of track out to balance it, but I otherwise have little issue.
> 
> -J.


There are many using EZ track, and I'm sure they are happy with it. I had a simple loop of it for our Christmas train for a long time and it was fine, no switches though.
Over the years I've had tubular steel/ fiber tie track, Miles of brass track, brass/ fiber tie flex, steel track, and EZ track (all HO ). Pros and Cons to all of 'em, but I always had trains running. So whatever.
Switches? Turnouts? Same thing. Casadio brass, Fleischman brass, TYCO steel, double slips, curved , Atlas #4, #6, snap and custom line nickel silver and brass, They've all worked. Again, whatever.
A sort of friend of mine had a brass General locomotive, HO. His only engine. He built a layout and used all Shinohara code 70. Bragged about it. Problem was the General wouldn't run on it. So what was the point?
If it's working for you, roll on! Everybody's a little different.


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## RT_Coker (Dec 6, 2012)

Mr.Buchholz said:


> Am I the only one that likes EZ track and rarely has any problems with it? A derail on my layout is rare, and because I have a rerailer on the far side of my layout, if some wheels do slip, it pushes them back on. There has been the odd instance where I've had to take a section of track out to balance it, but I otherwise have little issue.
> 
> -J.


No, you are not the only one. I had Nickel-Silver E-Z track on a layout of 8 hollow-core-doors with only single power connection (not counting the programming-siding). Once I figured out Bachmann’s low-coupler-tip-pin-problem, the layout worked great. Only had two problems, initially one rail-joint that needed a “squeeze” and latter a turnout-rail that got shoved to close to a powered frog (of course this doesn’t include my stupid mistakes). My grandkids ran it all around the basement floor, and the only problem they had was an unplanned reverse loop that caused a short when they moved the turntable to it.
Bob


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Mr.Buchholz said:


> Am I the only one that likes EZ track and rarely has any problems with it? A derail on my layout is rare, and because I have a rerailer on the far side of my layout, if some wheels do slip, it pushes them back on. There has been the odd instance where I've had to take a section of track out to balance it, but I otherwise have little issue.
> 
> -J.


That's an overly simplistic outlook. It's not a love it or hate it. Here's my take:

First of all, occasional wheels off the track that require a rerailer isn't acceptable to everyone. Some people want 100% derailment free operation.

Secondly, all brands of roadbed track are limited to the geometry of the available pieces. Many of us find this too constraining. 

Third, the proprietary connectors on these tracks (with the exception of Atlas True Track) makes it tricky to incorporate other brands of track, further limiting what you can do.

Lastly, turnouts have sharp, short point rails, rough frogs, and riveted hinges, not to mention configurations designed for loops rather than more prototypical track arrangements. These are more prone to problems, especially with longer wheelbase equipment.

The flip side of that is that roadbed track lends a feeling of security when laying track. It's harder to screw up, and therefore especially attractive to newcomers.

So, if you can live with these potential issues, or really want the security, then by all means, use roadbed track. It's an individual decision.

We used roadbed track (Lifelike PowerLoc, before they discontinued the nickel silver track) on my son's first layout. Despite having helped me lay flextrack on my layout, he still wanted roadbed track (Atlas True Track) on his second.

My only concern is to make sure the potential user is aware of the ramifications if he does elect to use a brand of roadbed track.


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## pat_smith1969 (Aug 21, 2016)

MR. Buchholz
are you using the grey or black e-z track? Just curious. The grey seems to be a much higher quality build.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

pat_smith1969 said:


> MR. Buchholz
> are you using the grey or black e-z track? Just curious. The grey seems to be a much higher quality build.


Black roadbed is steel rails, which are, to be blunt, garbage. The primary attraction of this stuff is it's low cost. You get what you pay for.


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## santafealltheway (Nov 27, 2012)

You could always glue/nail atlas or peco turnouts to some wood the same thickness and your EZ track. the rail joiners are usually enough to hold it all together.

I spent countless hours sanding and filing and shimming and wound up just pitching the ez-track turnouts right in the trash. Just wasn't worth it.

i'm VERY happy with my atlas turnouts. they don't cause me any problems.


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## pat_smith1969 (Aug 21, 2016)

I went to the local hobby shop and picked up a complete set of Atlas track that is enough to build my desired layout. That SCARM program is awesome.. I was able to buy exactly the track types and numbers I need to build my desired layout with little "over buy". 

I have temp setup my atlas track and did many test runs. The "inexpensive" Bachmann 0-6-0 still rubs it's belly on the turn outs but it makes it over them without derailing most times. That particular loco can run around the track 4 or 5 times before it tragically derails... considering there are 6 turnouts on it.. that is an order of magnitude better.. .my good Bachmann 2-8-4 has not derailed yet... so success.

I will sell most of my e-z track but my son had some friends over the other day.. I wouldn't let them touch the Atlas track.. but they could do whatever they wanted with the e-z track.. no stress on my part and fun on theirs.


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## santafealltheway (Nov 27, 2012)

pat_smith1969 said:


> I went to the local hobby shop and picked up a complete set of Atlas track that is enough to build my desired layout. That SCARM program is awesome.. I was able to buy exactly the track types and numbers I need to build my desired layout with little "over buy".
> 
> I have temp setup my atlas track and did many test runs. The "inexpensive" Bachmann 0-6-0 still rubs it's belly on the turn outs but it makes it over them without derailing most times. That particular loco can run around the track 4 or 5 times before it tragically derails... considering there are 6 turnouts on it.. that is an order of magnitude better.. .my good Bachmann 2-8-4 has not derailed yet... so success.
> 
> I will sell most of my e-z track but my son had some friends over the other day.. I wouldn't let them touch the Atlas track.. but they could do whatever they wanted with the e-z track.. no stress on my part and fun on theirs.


Just remember, tracks in the real world don't always line up like they don in scarm, or on paper.. It's more of a guide then direct instructions.


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## Joe Davis (Dec 13, 2016)

My son and I also decided to replace all our Bachman EZ Track with Atlas Code 83 track. My question is what is the difference between Code 83 and 100 and where is the cheapest place to get Atlas track/turnouts in bulk?

Thanks


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## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*Rail height CODE = 1/1,000 of an inch.*

Track code is measured in One thousandths of an inch. Code 100 has been a standard for
sometime now.Some model railroaders liken code 100 to a scale mainline rail. Others say
code 100 enables the deeper flanges to run on the taller rails. Some clubs use code 55 rail
as more prototypical.
I bought all my turnouts "used" to save some money. The local hobby shop most likely has "used" turnouts. Code 100,.. weathered has the appearance of a shorter rail height. Good luck with your choices! Regards,tr1 (A word of caution) #1solder on drop wires before weathering/painting the
rails.And,.... nickle silver is the way to go.:smilie_daumenpos: Good luck!


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Joe Davis said:


> My son and I also decided to replace all our Bachman EZ Track with Atlas Code 83 track. My question is what is the difference between Code 83 and 100 and where is the cheapest place to get Atlas track/turnouts in bulk?
> 
> Thanks


tr1 answered the code question (although it might be confusing the way he phrased it): code is the height of the rail in 1000's of an inch. Code 100 track is 0.100 inches high, Code 83 is 0.083".

It's a matter of appearance rather than functionality. Most of us think Code 83 looks better.

I don't know of anyplace that offers a quantity discount on track products, but I do most of my online buying at Trainworld and MB Klein (www.modeltrainstuff.com). They have good prices and fast and reasonable shipping. They have physical locations, but as these are in NYC and near Baltimore, respectively, that's a bit of a haul for you.

If you're considering Atlas TruTrack, there is a "starter set" that provides a bundle of pieces at a discount over buying them individually.


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## Joe Davis (Dec 13, 2016)

Thanks guys. I may hit you up for some more questions soon


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Joe Davis said:


> Thanks guys. I may hit you up for some more questions soon


Bring it on!! We love questions! :smilie_daumenpos::smilie_daumenpos:


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## Joe Davis (Dec 13, 2016)

OK, you asked for it 

My main question for now is concerning power for my layout. I started out with a 4x8 layout then doubled it to 16x4. I realize now that this is way too tight and narrow to be a proper good layout but I will fix that soon enough. Like I said I am replacing all my EZ track with Atlas Code 83. Where do I distribute the power and how? I am running a Digitrax DCC system if that helps. On my EZ track I just kind of randomly ran power wires from the track. Seemed to work out but I always figured it was the not the proper way to do it.

I have seen things on the modeltrainstuff website like terminal track and rerailers. Do I need these?

Thanks again


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## santafealltheway (Nov 27, 2012)

Joe Davis said:


> OK, you asked for it
> 
> My main question for now is concerning power for my layout. I started out with a 4x8 layout then doubled it to 16x4. I realize now that this is way too tight and narrow to be a proper good layout but I will fix that soon enough. Like I said I am replacing all my EZ track with Atlas Code 83. Where do I distribute the power and how? I am running a Digitrax DCC system if that helps. On my EZ track I just kind of randomly ran power wires from the track. Seemed to work out but I always figured it was the not the proper way to do it.
> 
> ...


no you dont need terminal tracks or re-railers.

I would simply solder wires to the bottom of the rail joiners.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Joe Davis said:


> OK, you asked for it
> 
> My main question for now is concerning power for my layout. I started out with a 4x8 layout then doubled it to 16x4. I realize now that this is way too tight and narrow to be a proper good layout but I will fix that soon enough. Like I said I am replacing all my EZ track with Atlas Code 83. Where do I distribute the power and how? I am running a Digitrax DCC system if that helps. On my EZ track I just kind of randomly ran power wires from the track. Seemed to work out but I always figured it was the not the proper way to do it.
> 
> ...


You can do a pretty good dogbone layout in 16 x 4. There is no such thing as a "proper" layout, BTW, only what works for you.

You can use terminal track if you want. Nothing wrong with it. Terminal joiners like Santa Fe pointed out are cheaper and more versatile, and you can buy pre made ones or make your own. Or you can run your own feeders up from a bus and solder them to the outside of your rails. Guys will tell you that you need feeders every X feet, but you don't. My son is running a 12x8 L shaped layout with a single pair of AWG 24 feeder wires. More connections just provide redundancy, which can make for more reliability, but it's not strictly necessary.

Nor are rerailers. Personally, I think they're unnecessary. It you take your time and lay down smooth, kink-free trackwork, you won't have many derailments anyway. Unlike DC, where you can often drag the derailed equipment around until it rerails, in DCC, cars with metal wheels often trip the breaker when they derail, so your train isn't going anywhere until you rerail it.


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## Chet (Aug 15, 2014)

I don't want to sound snooty, but I would never think of using E-Z track or for that matter any sectional track. 

Going back to the mid 70's when I started a small N scale layout after getting out of the service, the folks at the hobby shop I went to suggested using flex track. After using flex track I never looked back. My little layout expanded to having over 11 scale miles of track when I moved back to Montana and built a house over my train room. 

Unfortunately N scale back in the late 70 nd early 80's had some really lousy running locomotives so I ended up tearing everything out and moved to HO scale. 

After my experience with flex track, I started the layout by hand laying track and turnouts, but ended up finishing it with flex track 

You have less rail joints, you are not stuck with a set radius curve as you would have been if you were using sectional track. You can make your couves a broad as you want. Easements into curves are almost automatic with flex track also. Working in tight sp[aces, it can be a real pain trying to fit small lengths to track to make your track plan work whereas tyou can cut flex track to any length you need to have smooth track work. 

I'm sure that others may agree with me that have been in the hobby for a long time..


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Chet said:


> I don't want to sound snooty, but I would never think of using E-Z track or for that matter any sectional track.
> 
> Going back to the mid 70's when I started a small N scale layout after getting out of the service, the folks at the hobby shop I went to suggested using flex track. After using flex track I never looked back. My little layout expanded to having over 11 scale miles of track when I moved back to Montana and built a house over my train room.
> 
> ...


Yes, but you're not Joe Davis, are you?


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## Joe Davis (Dec 13, 2016)

Chet said:


> I don't want to sound snooty, but I would never think of using E-Z track or for that matter any sectional track.


Isn't that the point of this discussion...replacing the EZ track with the "real stuff". I don't know about you but when my son and I started out when he was 6 or so the EZ track was a very good way to get in to the hobby. Very easy to use and setup. Gradually, as you learn more, you want to step up your game. That is what we are doing. BTW we graduated to DCC several years ago and never looked back.

I have learned so much in the 15 or so years we have been doing this. One of my proudest moments was successfully adding a 14" turntable several years ago. That made my son's year. Now I have to figure out the indexing system for it.

Thanks again for all the advice. Just ordered a bunch or Atlas code 83 track. So stay tuned Bat fans


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## Mr.Buchholz (Dec 30, 2011)

pat_smith1969 said:


> MR. Buchholz
> are you using the grey or black e-z track? Just curious. The grey seems to be a much higher quality build.


Black EZ track. I've rarely had any problems with it. A couple times, I had to adjust the turnouts slightly, but other than that, the whole setup works just fine.

-J.


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## Mr.Buchholz (Dec 30, 2011)

Joe Davis said:


> Isn't that the point of this discussion...replacing the EZ track with the "real stuff"


:lame:

Your opinion. 

-J.


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## namvet4 (Nov 26, 2016)

Joe Davis,
Thanks for sharing the pic! Appreciate it!


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## time warp (Apr 28, 2016)

Mr.Buchholz said:


> :lame:
> 
> Your opinion.
> 
> -J.


 Hang in there J! If it works for you, it works for me!:smilie_daumenpos:


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## Joe Davis (Dec 13, 2016)

Mr.Buchholz said:


> :lame:
> 
> Your opinion.
> 
> -J.


There's one of you in every forum.


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## time warp (Apr 28, 2016)

Take it easy , Joe. We're all friends here. Don't start a friggin fist fight over train track. Geesh!


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I agree with Time Warp. There is room for all tastes and preferences in this hobby. This forum is remarkably judgment-free, unlike a popular hobby magazine's forum, which is prone to devolving into cries of "you're not a REAL model railroader if (or unless)..." or "you have one too few rivets on your model."


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## PhillipL (May 5, 2012)

CTValleyRR, I totally agree with you. I really like this forum because everyone is welcome. The hobby is for fun and relaxation.


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## Mr.Buchholz (Dec 30, 2011)

Joe Davis said:


> There's one of you in every forum.


What is that supposed to mean?



-J.


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## Joe Davis (Dec 13, 2016)

My apologies. I thought you were calling the photo of my turntable lame. 

And yes, you guys are much more friendlier than some other forums I have been on.

Thanks again for the advice.


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## time warp (Apr 28, 2016)

Joe Davis said:


> My apologies. I thought you were calling the photo of my turntable lame.
> 
> And yes, you guys are much more friendlier than some other forums I have been on.
> 
> Thanks again for the advice.


 No worries, simple misunderstanding!
I'm glad You are sharing your work with us, good to see!


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## Joe Davis (Dec 13, 2016)

CTValleyRR said:


> You can do a pretty good dogbone layout in 16 x 4.


Excuse my ignorance but can you POST some examples of a dogbone layout? I think I know what you are talking about but I would think a 4' wide layout would be pretty tight for the curves.

Thanks


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Joe Davis said:


> Excuse my ignorance but can you POST some examples of a dogbone layout? I think I know what you are talking about but I would think a 4' wide layout would be pretty tight for the curves.
> 
> Thanks


Tight?
Four feet wide will render 22" radius curves.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

LateStarter said:


> Tight?
> Four feet wide will render 22" radius curves.


Exactly. I don't have a picture of one handy (although i'm sure Google would overwhelm you with pictures). Basically, a dogbone is narrow in the middle with a larger lobe at each end. If i get ambitious and can find 15 minutes later in the week, i'll sketch one in AnyRail.

Late Starter is right. 4' gives you 22" radius witha 2" safety margin around the edges. 22" is pretty good for HO scale.

If you look at my layout in the "Here are Layouts of Forum Members" thread, my layout is a folded dogbone, with the lobes at 90 degrees to the axis of the narrow side.


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## Joe Davis (Dec 13, 2016)

Great. Thanks again


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## Half-O (Dec 20, 2016)

*EZ Track Post*

Pat_Smith1969--I have used Bachmann EZ track since its inception mainly because it is easy to assemble every year for my Christmas tree platform layout (my only layout since I don't have a permanent). I have noted trouble sometimes with bent rail joiners mainly due to trying to move multiple sections while connected (despite that they say you can do this), but have never experienced the turnout problem you describe. I like the EZ also because I run a lot of old high flange stuff and EZ is high rail. I have had issues with Bachmann trains, specially like the early Spectrum PRR K-4 locos where the driver spokes warped and fouled the rods but nothing with the track. So I recommend staying with the EZ track (for what it's worth).


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## Mr.Buchholz (Dec 30, 2011)

Half-O said:


> Pat_Smith1969--I have used Bachmann EZ track since its inception mainly because it is easy to assemble every year for my Christmas tree platform layout (my only layout since I don't have a permanent). I have noted trouble sometimes with bent rail joiners mainly due to trying to move multiple sections while connected (despite that they say you can do this), but have never experienced the turnout problem you describe. I like the EZ also because I run a lot of old high flange stuff and EZ is high rail. I have had issues with Bachmann trains, specially like the early Spectrum PRR K-4 locos where the driver spokes warped and fouled the rods but nothing with the track. So I recommend staying with the EZ track (for what it's worth).


:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

The voice of reason 

-J.


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