# Projects.



## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

I've been working on many projects for a customer/friend over the past several weeks. Here are a few terrible pictures of what's been happening. First of all, a double-header of Atlantic's. He liked the first set I made so much, he wanted a second set. The first engine smokes, but not the second. The second one is powered though...A baby blue transition car that was going to be junked but I saved it.....Next is a reel car, not the best but he knew that from the start it would not be perfect...A 302 that runs great.. A 293 that also runs super.. Finally a K335 that has a Hudson tender. The tender, in my opinion, looks fairly good behind the Northern..What makes these a easy fix/project is he only wants the engines capable of forward motion only. Although each engine has the ability for reverse and forward direction, I've locked out the engines in forward motion only. I just finished re-numbering the engines this afternoon.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

The K 335 is a big locomotive. 
I like the reel car, the box cars color I don't know. 
And I like blue, maybe it needs some lettering? Too baby blue for me, reminds me of the Lionel girls trains colors.

Only wants them to go forward? 
Strange.......very strange. 

Nice to see all the Plasticville's.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Big Ed said:


> The K 335 is a big locomotive.
> I like the reel car, the box cars color I don't know.
> And I like blue, maybe it needs some lettering? Too baby blue for me, reminds me of the Lionel girls trains colors.
> 
> ...


I asked him about what color he would like, he said do what you want,lol.. It does look alot like the Lionel boys train color...Going just forward is a God-send to me; I like my e-units to function 100%, now it's not so critical.. They all do work, but it takes the pressure off me.By locking them out in forward, all he has to do is put power to the lay-out, and hit the throttle, all he wants to do is run them. Some of those Plasticville buildings are the same ones my Dad had back in the 50's when he would set up a double-track under the Christmas tree, running a 302 and a K335..He has the most remarkable O scale lay-out I have ever seen, it's huge!! Over 2 miles of GarGraves track!!..Here's a link...www.northroserailroadcompany.com


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## Defender (9 mo ago)

What do you use for re-numbering? My 312 needs it. Would like to give it a try if it's not too involved.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Defender said:


> What do you use for re-numbering? My 312 needs it. Would like to give it a try if it's not too involved.


Hi Richard.. I use dry rub transfers. There's a trick as to using them, but I like them.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

flyernut, I know you went over how to use the dry rub transfers. Can not find it. Can you go over the tricks of using the transfers. Thanks.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

The old thread is January 16, 2019. To quickly find it go to search, enter Flyernut in the member name box, then put "dry rub transfers" in the search criteria box. Hit the search button and it will be the first thread in the list.


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## alaft61ri (Oct 11, 2019)

I put scotch tape one for wrapping gifts see thru. I have good luck with it.
Al


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

mopac said:


> flyernut, I know you went over how to use the dry rub transfers. Can not find it. Can you go over the tricks of using the transfers. Thanks.


The first thing you need is a 2b pencil or something similar. The next thing is to measure the graphics exactly where they are on the original part BEFORE you go to stripping, etc. That way you'll get the new graphics in the right place..Cut out the graphics you are going to use from the main sheet, if they come like that.Leave the backing paper on the graphics for the time being. Once you have determined where the graphics are located, place a piece of scotch tape over the graphics, and remove the protective backing paper. Stick the graphics with the scotch-tape on the item, whether it be a tender or cab. I would do the cab first to get a little practise in first before attacking the tender.Now with the pencil, rub all the number/letters, covering all the numbers/letters with the lead from the pencil..Once every number/letter is completely covered, SLOWLY remove the scotch-tape, starting at a corner.You'll be able to see your progress as you remove the tape.. IF a part of the transfer did not transfer, simply put the scotch-tape back into place and rub on the item that didn't fully transfer..Keep on going until you've finished.. Slow is the key, and a complete rubbing is necessary. If you try to put the transfer on by itself without the scotch-tape,, IT WILL MOVE, screwing up the process, hence that's the reason for the scotch-tape, to hold the transfer in the correct place.. Before you start the rubbing process, if you want to move the transfer, (you don't like the location), just remove the tape and re-apply where you would like the transfer to be..The trick is the scotch-tape, I use Scotch brand matte tape, it used to be marketed as "magic mending tape" years ago.. If you're going to use single numbers to form a 3-4 digit cab number, it gets trickier, so if I'm looking for cab numbers,etc, I buy them specifically for the engine, say a 302AC or whatever. I try not to make up anything over a 2 digit numeral.. Hope this helps, anymore questions, please feel free to ask...Loren


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

I sometimes buy dry rub transfers from hobby shops, etc, but the font is not the correct size as to the original. It could be smaller or larger but not the correct size.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Thanks a bunch. I think I get it. Seems you mention heating the numbers some. Maybe not. I would think a little bit of hair dryer might help after the scotch tape is in place. Thanks again.

I have seen some of your cab numbers after you did them and they looked great. The cab numbers are the main item to me. I have bought some turds but the cab numbers were good.
I need to get to work. I am way behind on servicing bought engines. I think a layout would get me motivated. I remember a photo you showed with many of your steamers on the tracks of
your layout. Looked cool.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

mopac said:


> Thanks a bunch. I think I get it. Seems you mention heating the numbers some. Maybe not. I would think a little bit of hair dryer might help after the scotch tape is in place. Thanks again.
> 
> I have seen some of your cab numbers after you did them and they looked great. The cab numbers are the main item to me. I have bought some turds but the cab numbers were good.
> I need to get to work. I am way behind on servicing bought engines. I think a layout would get me motivated. I remember a photo you showed with many of your steamers on the tracks of
> your layout. Looked cool.


Heat is mentioned as that is the element that sticks the transfer to the item..I only use the heat generated from the rubbing of the pencil.


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## TimmyD (Dec 6, 2021)

If he did want them to be able to reverse, seems like you could run both engines off of a single tender (reverse unit), like the two engine diesels. Hiding the wires would be a challenge, but they would go through the forward/neutral/reverse/neutral sequence properly and consistently...



flyernut said:


> I've been working on many projects for a customer/friend over the past several weeks. Here are a few terrible pictures of what's been happening. First of all, a double-header of Atlantic's. He liked the first set I made so much, he wanted a second set. The first engine smokes, but not the second. The second one is powered though...A baby blue transition car that was going to be junked but I saved it.....Next is a reel car, not the best but he knew that from the start it would not be perfect...A 302 that runs great.. A 293 that also runs super.. Finally a K335 that has a Hudson tender. The tender, in my opinion, looks fairly good behind the Northern..What makes these a easy fix/project is he only wants the engines capable of forward motion only. Although each engine has the ability for reverse and forward direction, I've locked out the engines in forward motion only. I just finished re-numbering the engines this afternoon.
> View attachment 589492
> View attachment 589493
> View attachment 589494
> ...


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

TimmyD said:


> If he did want them to be able to reverse, seems like you could run both engines off of a single tender (reverse unit), like the two engine diesels. Hiding the wires would be a challenge, but they would go through the forward/neutral/reverse/neutral sequence properly and consistently...


You're correct, but then you have the issue you mentioned, hiding the wires. And if something goes amiss and 1 engine responds to the e-unit, and the other doesn't, that would be another issue.. I actually like his decision, it's wonderful to come over to the lay-out, turn the power on, and watch the train with consist just take off. Who needs reverse,lol?? I remember the days of stick shift cars when the battery was no good, no reverse, etc, and you had to push the car, and then hop in to pop the clutch.. what a great time, NOT!


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## TimmyD (Dec 6, 2021)

flyernut said:


> You're correct, but then you have the issue you mentioned, hiding the wires. And if something goes amiss and 1 engine responds to the e-unit, and the other doesn't, that would be another issue.. I actually like his decision, it's wonderful to come over to the lay-out, turn the power on, and watch the train with consist just take off. Who needs reverse,lol?? I remember the days of stick shift cars when the battery was no good, no reverse, etc, and you had to push the car, and then hop in to pop the clutch.. what a great time, NOT!


Oh, I agree that it is fortunate that your friend is happy to keep the reverse unit locked out on this train, I was just thinking about how you could do it and maintain reverse. 
Cheers!
Tim


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