# First decoder install: LokSound 5 in MTH. Help!



## LocoChris (Jun 26, 2021)

I bought my first DCC ready locomotive, an MTH GP38-2 that was on sale. Much to my dismay, it ended up being an 8-pin because it was an older model from 2015. So I got an 8-pin LokSound 5 decoder. Besides the two speaker wires, it had three other wires that needed to be soldered. The MTH board has a "D_L"," D_R", and "NUM" tab for marker lights and number boards. I soldered the three wires to what I thought were the correct tabs, but I notice that the white number board LEDS are always on, and I can't seem to turn them off. The pink wire is soldered to the "NUM" tab, and when I press F5 (which is supposed to be the pink wire AUX3 function), the red and green marker lights start flashing, but pressing the buttons for the functions for the other two tabs do nothing. Did I do something wrong? I've attached a photo of this.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

You will have to dig into the programming of the Loksound decoder. These are very sophisticated decoders with a multitude of programming options for lights and sound, and sometimes can be very confusing. 

They are very capable decoders and among the best on the market, but the programming can be difficult.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

I just wonder how well this will work. The other option is the full board replacement style. Basically you'd remove all the original pcbs. Then the one board connects up to track power, motor, LEDs, sound. Be quite a bit if work but it might in the end do more stuff. Would need a little upfront work to completely understand scope.


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## LocoChris (Jun 26, 2021)

Severn said:


> I just wonder how well this will work. The other option is the full board replacement style. Basically you'd remove all the original pcbs. Then the one board connects up to track power, motor, LEDs, sound. Be quite a bit if work but it might in the end do more stuff. Would need a little upfront work to completely understand scope.


Thanks, but I've already spent too much money on it as it is. If I can't find a way to control the number boards I will just deal with them being on all the time.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

I am not certain, but you may have to assign an unused CV to the number boards, or find within the Loksound CV menu an optional unused lighting control CV. Then, you will have to assign the light function to a function key on your controller. This is done through the decoder though and not the controller.

All you will be telling the decoder is which function key you intend to use to turn on/off the number boards.

I have never programmed from scratch, but I have read the manuals for Loksound 4.0 and 5.0.


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## LocoChris (Jun 26, 2021)

After trying more things and asking around other places, I'm starting to think the issue is with the MTH motherboard, and nothing I can change using the decoder. Removing the two jumpers from the from the motherboard is supposed to allow the decoder to control both the marker lights and the number board lights. The marker lights work, but the number board lights stay on constantly even if I completely unplug the decoder, which makes me think it's a MTH issue. I've already tried contacting MTH and no response, so guess I just have to deal with it. I bought it from TrainWorld in September, but kind of doubt they would let me return it. Going to try anyway.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

Did you ask the trainworld folks about installation help?


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## LocoChris (Jun 26, 2021)

Severn said:


> Did you ask the trainworld folks about installation help?


No, I would think they would just tell me to contact MTH.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

I'm not sure of it. MTH in my mind is definitely not going to help. The don't care about DCC (in favor of their DCS system) and they sold off their HO stuff to Scaletrains as well. Anyway I would try tworld just to see what they say. 

here -- here's an idea, (some of) the other brands have installation tips/pics different locos but some MTH: (my brief looks suggests of limited help but maybe ...)






Installations | TrainControlSystems







tcsdcc.com





it does say the NUM = number lights, D_R = ditch light right. are as i think you said, which seems it should work... i guess they do, just not exactly as desired. the number boards are always on. odd they dont turn off. That brand says F3 but that's probably different for them.

(i think this is most useful -- | Train Control Systems)


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## LocoChris (Jun 26, 2021)

Severn said:


> I'm not sure of it. MTH in my mind is definitely not going to help. The don't care about DCC (in favor of their DCS system) and they sold off their HO stuff to Scaletrains as well. Anyway I would try tworld just to see what they say.
> 
> here -- here's an idea, (some of) the other brands have installation tips/pics different locos but some MTH: (my brief looks suggests of limited help but maybe ...)
> 
> ...


Thanks, that looks exactly like the same board used on my GP38-2. They must use the same motherboard on most models. That explains why it was so confusing on mine, because the GP38-2 has NO ditch lights, yet it has those same ditch indicators on the board. The ditch connectors/tabs are actually used for the number boards and the number board connector/tabs are used for the marker lights.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

Seems ... a little odd. Since I don't do anything correctly. I'd probably do num to number boads and wire the Ds to the these markers. Goodness I hope there's not some voltage difference ... anyway then maybe the markers could flash like ditch lights and I would say "Now that's cool!"

But that's me...

Is this btw "it"... 3rd or 4th image.

Best pics I can find so far.









Parts! 9 HO Electric Motors (MTH and Proto 2000) + 10 DCC Ready Circuit Boards | #1867332851


For sale is a lot of 9 HO Electric Motors and 10 DCC-Ready circuit boards.The ones pictured in the plastic bags are, I think, Proto 2000 (but I'm not sure) and the others are from MTH HO items. They a




www.worthpoint.com


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

Found this...



https://mthtrains.com/sites/default/files/download/instruction/80dl13434i.pdf




I got first with Google "mth ho gp38-2 dcc ready" ... But you can go to mth and under "service" I think search there for manuals. There's possibly several ways.


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## LocoChris (Jun 26, 2021)

Severn said:


> Found this...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks, I did already have that. That's where it says to remove the jumpers and you can control the lights.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

Hmmm then if you have the manual it should work! Ok ... Well I don't really know what else to suggest. Let me look at your pics again.


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## LocoChris (Jun 26, 2021)

Severn said:


> Hmmm then if you have the manual it should work!


That's why I think it's a problem with the motherboard, because I've tried a number of different things, and the lights remained on every single time. I tried wiring the decoder to different tabs, tried wiring it to NO tabs, completely unplugged the decoder, everything. Marker lights would be off but number board lights would stay on.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

Ok now that I've read it again and Michaels ideas. Firstly he may have the best option of trying to set CVs so that the num boards turn off. The markers flash which to me is a setting for ditch. I can't really tell if I'd wire/solder it another way without delving into the loksound 5 manual also. Basically I don't think I've been that helpful.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

That .. ok no decoder and num boards on?


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

Ok I'm catching up a little. I'm poking through the loksound 5 manual. 

So you're saying. You said it above. You've wired x output to the number boards. ("NUM")... and removed the jumpers on the sides...

That when you enable the output of "x" with dcc... That the markers come on?

That doesn't make any sense. If you can trace the wiring to the number boards and determine the correct wires there, I'd do that.

And I'd be tempted to simplify the problem and remove two ditch wires for now. If sound seems ok, I guess just leave it. 

Finally I'm a little confused that number boards may come on all the time. There's a wiring diagram in that mth manual. And my memory is at, I believe... It's end connector there's green to the board LEDs and purple back for ground. May be pin 14... Well at least check that out I guess...


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

Ok stream or consciousness here sorry about that.

What I'm wondering if whether you want a logic level out or a power out. Because there's this mth board in the way.

Is the loksound to cause a pin to go high or low on the mth board ... Which tells it to turn the number boards on or off... Or is the dcc supplying the power directly...? 

(And maybe that's what the jumper removal does)

I would definitely trace to the num boards and maybe try to figure out where the PCB lines are going ...

Well that's enough of my "sound advice" for this evening I think...


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

So one more thing came to me. I've never done the socketed approach ... But isn't the idea there that you don't solder anything? I mean except items not covered by the socket?

That's intuitively what I'd guess. So you had to connect the speaker but maybe the other solder point are not necessary.

Did you try putting it back to out of the box and just plugging in the esu, the speakers and of course leave the jumpers off.

?


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

may help


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## LocoChris (Jun 26, 2021)

Severn said:


> So one more thing came to me. I've never done the socketed approach ... But isn't the idea there that you don't solder anything? I mean except items not covered by the socket?
> 
> That's intuitively what I'd guess. So you had to connect the speaker but maybe the other solder point are not necessary.
> 
> ...


If it was a 21-pin connector, then yes I wouldn't have to solder anything except the speakers, but since it's an old school 8-pin connector, the extra light functions aren't covered by those 8 pins. I did already try just plugging in the 8-pin connector without soldering anything.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

I also found that video not helpful at all. There's no step by step but blather. They want you to pay them. (I amend that a little)

He seems have to ditched the pcb in favor of connecting all the lights directly and put in his own resistors. i'm not sure of the rest as I haven't watched it. But he doesn't provide a step by step. Just hints. Well that's a big job!


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## LocoChris (Jun 26, 2021)

Severn said:


> I also found that video not helpful at all. There's no step by step but blather. They want you to pay them. (I amend that a little)
> 
> He seems have to ditched the pcb in favor of connecting all the lights directly and put in his own resistors. i'm not sure of the rest as I haven't watched it. But he doesn't provide a step by step. Just hints. Well that's a big job!


Yeah he redid almost everything.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

I'm not on FB myself but this group was in the DCCTrain FB group list ...





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