# How do I identify pre or post war in a Marx model 999 locomotive?



## Pelzer24 (Sep 23, 2012)

I know absolutely nothing about trains but I have an old locomotive. I researched it and found out its a Marx Model 999. I believe they were made from 1938 to into the 1950's. I can't find anything that narrows down the year tho. Also curious if there's any kind of demand for this model and what the value would be.


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

I'm not a Marx guy, but know enough to offer a few opinions. First due to the condition the value would be substantially reduced. A good place to research value is e-bay. Check completed auctions and compare condition. Look here I did a simple search. Others may be able to help narrow down the year. Second, I believe the 999 is a fairly common unit so it won't have a high dollar value. A lot of people see "old" or "antique" and see dollar signs. Understand, I mean no offense here, simply stating facts.

Carl


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## Pelzer24 (Sep 23, 2012)

*Thank you*

I was wondering if it might be worth a lot. Like I said this isn't a hobby for me right now. I've thought about getting into it but haven't. If there's someone out there who would get some enjoyment out of this one is rather that than it just sitting around collecting dust on a shelf. Glad for the info.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Marx is very simple I doubt they distinguished between pre and postwar models. The guide books are rare and overpriced .


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## Handyandy (Feb 14, 2012)

The main things to look for are the pilot, contact shoe and drivers. 
The pre-war pilot has vertical "spokes" and is very fragile. The second version has the spaces between the spokes filled in. These two are the most collectable. Then later all the spoke detail was gone.
The pre-war contact shoe was two-piece affair, the single copper shoe design came out after the war. 
The design of the drivers also changed after the war. Post-war drivers (called Baldwin drivers) are more detailed than the simple spoked wheels from befor ethe war.
There was a little overlap in these items as very early postwar prduction still used pre-war parts.
Almost all 999's had the old style single reduction gearing (wheel gear teeth extended to edge of flange - aka fat wheel). The last ones made in the 50's had double reduction gearing which allows them to go through modern O gauge switches.

Scroll dowwn the page here and check out the 999 variations file...
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MarxTrain/files/

Hope this helps.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Some nice Marx i.d. websites:

http://marxtinplatetrains.com/marx_guide_locos.htm

http://www.toyandtrainguides.com/marxtin.htm --- use menu at right

Also ...

Here's a nice eBay Guide to Marx trains ... includes several hotlinks, subcategories ...

http://reviews.ebay.com/MARX-TIN-TRAIN-LOCOMOTIVE-IDENTIFICATION-GUIDE?ugid=10000000009480012

http://reviews.ebay.com/The-Toy-King-Louis-Marx-MarX-Trains-History_W0QQugidZ10000000004057543

Regards,

TJ


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## Handyandy (Feb 14, 2012)

Wow! I can see the pictures now! For some reason they didn't show earlier.

Yes, you definitely have a post-war 999. A very crusty post-war 999. Might be good for parts. the trucks look pretty bad.

The 999 is one of my favorites as it goes well with the 3/16" scale tin cars it was designed for. The Marx 3/16" scale tin is also a favorite of mine.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Handyandy said:


> Yes, you definitely have a post-war 999. A very crusty post-war 999. Might be good for parts. the trucks look pretty bad.


 !!!

Plenty of life left in that puppy, I'd think...

The shell looks solid, the drive wheels look solid ... I'd hope the motor could be cleaned / lubed to get running nicely again.

While the trucks/wheels/axles look pretty rusty, I've cleaned up worse. Here's what I'd suggest: A careful derust with a Dremel stainless steel brush (#530, I think) ... If you're patient, that will get down to shiny bare metal. Then, you can "gun blue" the wheels and axles, and either gun blue or paint the truck itself. The gun blue will give a very pleasing black finish, though it won't protect from future rust like paint would

Some discussion on "gun blue" here:

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=6121

The Dremel stainless brush will derust the drive rods, too ... after getting down to bare metal, you can clear-coat those with some airplane dope.

More Dremel action on the pickup plate ... nice shiny copper buried underneath all that tarnish.

Plenty of life ... plenty of life ...

:thumbsup:
TJ


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## rogruth (Mar 6, 2012)

The 999 was made in 1941,1942 and 1947.Yours appears to be a closed pilot model and could if cleaned up bring about $25.00 maximum.Info from "O'Brien's Collecting Toy Trains".


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