# okay, I think I came up with something better, opinions wanted



## DT&I (Dec 6, 2013)

multiple routes, direction is changeable, plenty of spurs


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## I Am Fasha (Apr 2, 2013)

Looks do'able :smilie_daumenpos:


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

that should go together easier without the inclines, plus it will be easier to modify or add to later on...especially if you just nail the track down...


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I gave up my over under on my O scale layout, you need too much room to slow the train on the downgrades! Instead I just built a gradual grade under my back track with some foam boards. I carved it to look like rock and the incline added the depth that I wanted.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

That would be a fun layout to operate 2 trains on...DCC I hope...and
with alert engineers who are very aware of that crossing.

Ole Don always ready to point out...you have a reverse loop
in that lower left section. I'd suggest isolating the entire
loop below the left and right turnouts. You'd need a DCC
reverse loop controller...or other circuit to avoid shorts.

Don


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## DT&I (Dec 6, 2013)

yeh, that's one thing I've never done and know very little about.....is wiring. My original layout was a simple oval with 2 spurs. I prob should pick up one of those atlas wiring books and do some reading


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Maybe connect this oval?
Add another siding over there too?


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## DT&I (Dec 6, 2013)

I had tried to put a Y in that up there in the middle, but I couldn't get everything to line up. I'm sure I'll still do a lot of tweaking on this, prob be at least a couple of months before I have the room cleared, repainted, and have the board up. I've already picked up a considerable amount of track and switches, I found a guy in alabama on ebay that made me an excellent deal on a huge new atlas nickel lot. with the plan above, I would be short very little trackwise. Figured I would scoop up track while the gettin was cheap 
My goal is to build this layout for under 500 bucks


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Flextrack will solve your "lining up" issue.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

If you are going with DCC your wiring on that layout would simply
be a matter of running a 'buss' and, mindful of keeping polarity
correct, connect the rails with a drop to the 'buss'. On that layout
I'd say you'd want a couple of drops. Plus, the drop to the
reverse loop from a controller powered by the buss.

Wiring that layout is as simple as you can get.

If you go with DC there would be other considerations, but the
reverse loop would have to go.

Don


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## DT&I (Dec 6, 2013)

this would be easier to wire, yes?


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## DT&I (Dec 6, 2013)

this one looks like it's prob gonna be pretty close to what I'm going to attempt


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Either layout would be straightforward. There are
no reverse loops.

Put track connections on each of the 3 
curves and you'll have a smooth running layout.
Use colored insulation wires, for example; red and black.
Always attach the Red to the OUTSIDE rail and the black
to the INSIDE rail.

Don


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## DT&I (Dec 6, 2013)

do you need individual power blocks if you're only running one train? The diesel service facilities are at the bottom on the right hand side of the 4x4 extension(I'll insulate those for engine parking), but was wondering about the rest of it


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## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

For DCC you don't need any insulated blocks except in a reverse loop. You can block off sections to make troubleshooting easier as I read in one of the other posts. I think I'll be using that that idea for my layout. Can't remember who suggested it.


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## DT&I (Dec 6, 2013)

well, since I'm on a pretty limited budget here, it will be dc


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## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

You have to do what you have to do. When you're ready for DCC you can try what I did. I asked for a cheap solution for running my Christmas train on this forum. Someone, can't remember the name, sold me one for $45.00. You can't beat that with a stick. Then you can learn to instal decoders that you can get for 15 to $20.


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Regardless of DC or DCC - I recommend wiring in blocks. You'll be glad you did when you have a mystery short and have to track it down. 

WIth block wiring, you'll be able to quickly identify the section of track causing the short vs having to debug/inspect the entire layout.


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## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

It was you:smilie_daumenpos:



sstlaure said:


> Regardless of DC or DCC - I recommend wiring in blocks. You'll be glad you did when you have a mystery short and have to track it down.
> 
> WIth block wiring, you'll be able to quickly identify the section of track causing the short vs having to debug/inspect the entire layout.


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

Please attach the anyrail file for you layout. I see a lot of potential in them.


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

DT&I said:


> well, since I'm on a pretty limited budget here, it will be dc


I still run my fairly large layout on DC as most of the trains my kids like to play with are DC. I'm even running the whole thing off of one small DC controller/powerpack (Athearn) You don't need massive power or expensive controllers to get started.

Once I invest a little heavier in engines that are DCC (I have 2 currently) I'll make the move.

I already have both an NCE Procab and Powercab ready to go.


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## DT&I (Dec 6, 2013)

Southern said:


> Please attach the anyrail file for you layout. I see a lot of potential in them.


here ya go


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## DT&I (Dec 6, 2013)

here's another variation without the cross over


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## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

Have you considered how you're going to reach the track in the corner?


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## DT&I (Dec 6, 2013)

that will be the Ironton tunnel. there's going to be a southern ohio type hill/ mountain in that corner. I figured I'd cut a hole for access to the tunnel. Jackson Ohio is at the bottom of the plan, and Ironton is at the right with the mountain separating them. the spur pointing at the corner is a coal mine with a slight grade up


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

I like it better without the crossover.


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## DT&I (Dec 6, 2013)

yeh, the more I look at it, I think I agree.
some nice long trains and realistic operation


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

Rerailer sections are good for tunnels. I do not know if they make a 22" radius one though. You can make them by hand, but that can be a real PITA!


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Can you use that whole 8' x 8' area?

You could make a donut table with a surface 24-30" deep all the way around and a 3-4 ft hole in the middle to operate from. You'd be able to reach everything easily and could have some nice scene changes through using backdrops and scenic dividers.

Currently you've got quite a few turnouts with 4'+ reachover. That's gonna be uncomfortable to operate.


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## DT&I (Dec 6, 2013)

I wish...the room is only 9x11


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Is the room dedicated to just the trains?


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## DT&I (Dec 6, 2013)

if I went 8x8, the door wouldn't open


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

DT&I said:


> if I went 8x8, the door wouldn't open


You could make a lift out section that would span the door opening (or hinge the door the other direction, or cut the door in half, or remove the door......)

I've been known to cut out sections of walls that are in the way of my layout. You MAY not want to get advice from me:laugh:


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## DT&I (Dec 6, 2013)

yeh, I don't believe that's a viable option


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

As long as it isn't structural - it's optional


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## DT&I (Dec 6, 2013)

I almost have all of the track for that plan now. I'm only missing 3 packs of straights, 3 LH's, and 15 or so 835's


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## DT&I (Dec 6, 2013)

possible alternative. I measured it all out for the wife today to show her the size of the L. She looked at me and flattly said, I thought you were going to build it around the walls.
Luckily, 1 night couple of weeks ago I sat and made a plan like that just for kicks (it's based off of one of the atlas plans).
The bottom loop boards would be cut just past the track leaving an almost 3 wide foot area to enter, the 2 connector boards are 2 by 2, and the top is a 2x9.
She likes this idea much better as you can walk into it and have a decent size are inside.
thoughts?


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Now we're talking.....I'd avoid those spurs against the wall with the long reachover.

Is each square one foot? If you have that much room, I'd seriously reconsider the 18" radius curves you have as it will limit the kind of rolling stock you can run.

If possible go 22" minimum. (A couple of pieces of flextrack are a simple and not that expensive fix.)


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## DT&I (Dec 6, 2013)

yes, those are 12" by 12" squares. 22 radius take a full 4 feet to make a half circle, so that sort of defeats the purpose. I'm fine running mid size and lower equipment


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Then go for it....FYI...you probably have enough run to get some bridges/cross-overs in there if you cross the elevations at the top, middle section.


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## DT&I (Dec 6, 2013)

some minor tweaks


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Stop planning already and get the tools out.


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## DT&I (Dec 6, 2013)

well, the woodwork part will now be pushed up a bit so dad can help . I want to time this now so he can have a hand in it.
I am going with the above folded dogbone plan. The L was cool, but not really practical


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## DT&I (Dec 6, 2013)

revised plan. wife didn't like the right side coming to the door jam (dunno why...lol). mountain and tunnel removed. outside track (left and right would be a grade up and down) will have a bridge for a road in the middle top, with the bottom track at ground level. passing track added to bottom left. post your thoughts.


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## joed2323 (Oct 17, 2010)

Id say since your allowed those dimensions and no bigger, start building bench work then you can tweak and fiddle with how the track layout will go...

I had a plan when i started my layout, but the bad thing was i kept adding on to what space i had then, i actually moved the whole layout to the otherside of my basement believe it or not, then i went even bigger, and changed alot of the mainline around. Thats one thing i love about railroading, its never done because your always thinking why didnt i do it like this, then you change it up


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## DT&I (Dec 6, 2013)

little more tweaking. room will be painted soon. track, cork, and cork switch pads all purchased and ready to go


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