# How high is your bench work?



## RnR (Jan 13, 2021)

Just starting my first in depth scenic ridge RR. I like to stand to work on things and It pains me to bend over and do dishes. What’s a good height for the base of an N RR?


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

My HO layout is at 44 inches and this works good for me at 5'10" although 
sometimes I wish I had gone 2 inches higher but don't really know how this would work.

Mostly it depends on what you find comfortable, it's different for everybody.
Stack some stuff on the kitchen counter and try different heights.

Magic


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

48" at the first level and rises to 56" to the third level.


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## Spence (Oct 15, 2015)

48” Made it easy when cutting the legs.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

Yep. Two legs out of an eight footer. Less waste.


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## Jscullans (Jul 8, 2019)

My track height is 4’1 3/8” off the floor and that works well for me. Unfortunately there are many places I can’t easily get to on my layout from the height I chose. I have long sweeping curves so that makes a problem getting everything scenic in the far corners of my layout. There is one place where it’s 6’ from the edge of my layout to the corner of the room. I think that may end up as a corn field at some point


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

RnR said:


> Just starting my first in depth scenic ridge RR. I like to stand to work on things and It pains me to bend over and do dishes. What’s a good height for the base of an N RR?


Well, you're not alone in that. Most of us have those problems. A pad to stand on works wonders, too.

My benchwork is 42" high, so with the foam layout base, track level 0 is 45" off the floor. Some areas of the layout are 3-4" higher than that.


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

This thread is posted in the N scale section, but I would think that the heights mentioned here are for all scales.....?


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

The rail tops are 45-1/2 off the floor, 49-1/2 over the truss bridge above the interchange.


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## Wooky_Choo_Bacca (Nov 13, 2020)

Mine is 36inches high, good height for me @ 5'10" with "Uncle Arthir" in various spots. I also have casters so's I can roll it around after "completion" (but are these EVER really completed ? lol) up into the corner to run and pull it away to rescue any derails


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## Spruslayer (Dec 13, 2020)

Im at 38 5/8" ,being only 5'7" i can sit on a piece of two inch foam and work under it fairly comfortable


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

My layout is in the attic where the roof slopes down to meet the floor. The layout is about a foot off the floor to maximize the layout area. It’s not too much fun to work under the layout. The staging area is on the third level (split level house) and is about four feet off the floor.


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## Wooky_Choo_Bacca (Nov 13, 2020)

Bob, sounds like you need an automotive creeper to get under the attic layout LOL


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Wooky_Choo_Bacca said:


> Bob, sounds like you need an automotive creeper to get under the attic layout LOL


What's funny about that? I have one that I use, and a topside creeper as well.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

I do wish I could get a top-side creeper into the room. If I could I would be able to fill my access holes and complete scenery in those spots.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Mine folds up. You can carry it sideways like a ladder (easier with 2 people). I bought it at Harbor Freight about 8 years ago.

I see a Traxion-3 for sale (not at Harbor Freight) that's essentially the same thing.


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

I have a creeper in my train room too......me!


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## BigEd (Oct 28, 2014)

Old_Hobo said:


> I have a creeper in my train room too......me!


I only creep if I have bought too many trains...

My N layout is 55" to the top of the rails. Currently its completely flat.. I'm a whisker short of 6'2"


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## Wooky_Choo_Bacca (Nov 13, 2020)

CTValleyRR said:


> What's funny about that? I have one that I use, and a topside creeper as well.


I was just sayin'. My layout is too high for a creeper and besides that when working on my cars I use a "poor man's creeper", sheet of cardboard with the cars solidly up on blocks unless I have to pull a wheel then it's jackstands









Plenty of room to roll around under there, this was me changing a complete exhaust system from US version to a European version, manifolds to chrome pipe tips


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

Wooky_Choo_Bacca said:


> Bob, sounds like you need an automotive creeper to get under the attic layout LOL


A creeper doesn’t work for my layout. I have to slide/shimmy under on my back. I made access hatches for a few spots so I can sit up after I slide under.


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## Madman (Aug 22, 2020)

36". Being 5'-6" it works out just right for me and my grandchildren.


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## DOOFUS (May 20, 2013)

Let's face it. There is never enough room under a layout to do wiring. My layout is 48" (min) off the floor and too many times I sit butt on the floor with my head into the wiring.


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## Wooky_Choo_Bacca (Nov 13, 2020)

DOOFUS said:


> Let's face it. There is never enough room under a layout to do wiring. My layout is 48" (min) off the floor and too many times I sit butt on the floor with my head into the wiring.


Too bad we can't put hydraulics on the legs (think $$$$), raise to a point where we can comfortably work on the under, then lower it so's that even short people (kids) can see everything (it's fun to watch the "amazed look" on kid's faces), and then high enough for us to tinker with the topside


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## Madman (Aug 22, 2020)

Getting back to this subject, I believe the perfect height would be one that allows either laying on a creeper and being able to reach up without straining, to do wiring or high enough to stand under and reach up comfortably. At the moment, all of my empty boxes are stored under my layout. Preferably, they would be stored somewhere else, but that somewhere is nonexistent.....LOL.....At least thats the work from SWMBO.


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## 65446 (Sep 22, 2018)

Here's my take on it:
Model trains look more realistic when viewed from the side than down on them..Why ?
Because in real life we see 1:1-scale trains from the side 95% of the time as opposed to from above or below them...So it helps make the model more believable/realistic, as if we're seeing the real tingalingaroooonio, but a tad further away, say..
Thus benchwork/sub-roadbed up at chest or even chin height [while standing] is my cup of tea.
There exist a group of modelers in this school. I juzzzz belong to diz school, too..
But you dozzzn't got to !! It's truly ~ Do what you like ~
There's no MRRing rule, nor is it scale-relevant. Same 'school' for all scales.
With it up high, tho, it's easier to get under the bench to do various things, especially if it's a 'duck-under' design..And you can keep a small type, arm-less office chair under it and push yourself around (backwards) with your feet and do 360-spins back in the aisle-way ! ..WEEeeeeeeeeeeee !


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## BigEd (Oct 28, 2014)

telltale said:


> Here's my take on it:
> Model trains look more realistic when viewed nearly from the side than down on them..Why ?
> Because in real life we see 1:1-scale trains from the side 95% of the time as opposed to from above or below them...So it helps make the model more believable/realistic, as if we're seeing the real tingalingaroooonio, but a tad further away, say..
> Thus benchwork/sub-roadbed up at chest or even chin height [while standing] is my cup of tea.


Exactly the reason mine is so high. I have some bar stools around for when we want to sit and the rest is history...


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

I either stand or sit in an adjustable drafting chair while operating. There is plenty of room under the layout to work on wiring. Sometimes I use a low stool for lengthier jobs, or just kneel if I need to meter something or just check a connection.


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## Chaostrain (Jan 27, 2015)

Mine is 30 inches high, table height. We sit at in chairs to work on it. My co-CEO (wife) can't stand very long. Also makes it easier for little kids to see.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Wooky_Choo_Bacca said:


> Too bad we can't put hydraulics on the legs (think $$$$), raise to a point where we can comfortably work on the under, then lower it so's that even short people (kids) can see everything (it's fun to watch the "amazed look" on kid's faces), and then high enough for us to tinker with the topside


"Can't" is a tough word. With enough time and money, anything is possible. It's just that, for most of us, a fully hydraulic support system would be far more than we can afford to spend or maintain. 

However, if you really wanted to do it, you could figure something out: legs / supports with holder and pins (or spring mounted ball bearings) to hold it at the selected height. A ceiling mounted pully or yoke fastened to a hydraulic auto Jack could be used to make the adjustments. You could also probably craft something with air pistons that would work.

It's really a matter of deciding what the final outcome should be, then applying some good old Yankee Ingenuity to come up with a solution.


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

My solution for working under the layout: Whiteside 2UP $144.39 Creeper, Adjustable, 44 in., Padded | Zoro.com


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## Wooky_Choo_Bacca (Nov 13, 2020)

AND THE WINNER IS . . . . . . . . flyboy. that seat is an excellent choice. I could use one like that when working on my vehicles, some stuff anyway


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## Aqualungs (Jan 25, 2021)

About 36", maybe could have went 40. I'm 5 10 and at least I can sit down there. Lumbar discs were removed and fused so I can't stay down there long. Bavk had been screaming at me for days, dying to get back under there and finish. A creeper might be more comfortable for me lol!

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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