# Marx 999 Stuck in Reverse



## Bloodhound (Dec 2, 2012)

Our Marx 999 steamer is stuck in reverse and will not switch over. The LW transformer worked fine with our F3 switching . Where do I start?


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## Bloodhound (Dec 2, 2012)

Just got through reading the many threads on this engine. There is a switch in the E-unit that can be moved manually with a toothpick. Just tested and now she's moving forward but have to switch it back manually if I cut the power. It almost appears to swing freely back and forth. Is that the way of it?


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## BWA (Jun 16, 2012)

If it's like my plastic 999, good luck.

The E unit (reverse mechanism) is built right in to the main frame assembly, and, none of the moving parts or electrical parts are visible (except for the coil).

Although, it may sound a bit heavey handed (pun intended), hold the Loco right side up, and, give it a thump from below with a rubber mallet.

Obviously, you don't want to overdo this, but, I'm guessing the E Unit plunger is stuck, and, just needs a few taps to get it unstuck.

Unfortunately, if it has suffered the same fate as the ZW, it may be pretty corroded, and, woulk be a pretty big ordeal to remove the E Unit to properly clean and service it (prolly have to take the drive wheels off and all).

They did also have an earlier style E Unit that was a rocker style rather than rotory. I think this one may be a bit more accessable.


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## Bloodhound (Dec 2, 2012)

This isn't plastic. I see the E-unit is built into the frame assembly and the rocker style seems to be what I have. First off I'm about as pissed off as I can be. Payed for the "Full Service" on this as I did my F3 and it's as if the Sob did nothing once again accept put a bulb in it. I just cleaned it, lubed the rocker with a syringe and she's switching beautifully. The crazy thing? I cleaned the armature and brush faces and coil contacts and if I give it any more than 8 volts on the LW with a full set of cars it's like a rocket ready to fly off the table! This thing is from what the 40's? Outrageous how some of things are built to last. Got lucky, no rust anywhere.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

We've had some recent discussions on Marx e-units (reverse units). Here's one thread, but do a quick search for some others ...

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=15625

also ...

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=14372

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=3108

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Bloodhound said:


> Payed for the "Full Service" on this as I did my F3 and it's as if the Sob did nothing once again accept put a bulb in it. I just cleaned it, lubed the rocker with a syringe and she's switching beautifully.


Now you know why I fix my own.


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## Bloodhound (Dec 2, 2012)

That makes two of us going forward John...


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## Handyandy (Feb 14, 2012)

It's hard to mess up a Marx, but some guys are diligent in their work! LOL

On another forum I found guys using TV tuner spray to clean Marx e-units. I tried a can and it does work. I got the kind that's plasic compatible (just in case) from Radio Shack. "Hose" it down and let it drain and dry before use.

Marx locos were designed to run on a max of 12 to 15 volts. Some of those older Marx engines are speed demons on less. I like the two variable voltage settings on certain transformers because of these engines. I use the 0-11 volt setting on my 1033 for a lot of Marx engines. Only way to keep 'em on the track when the full power setting starts at 5 volts! Engines like the 666 and such with double reduction gears and smokers seem to do just fine on the full power setting.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I use a contact cleaner on E-Units, it doesn't leave anything except perhaps a silicon lubricant behind, and so far it's been pretty effective on them. I've found the less fiddling I do with the drum and fingers, the better the end result.  TJ takes them all apart and rebuilds them, but he has 27 fingers.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I'm trying to grow some more, too! I need the help!


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