# Painting nightmares



## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Ok so for anyone following my pre war new life thread( o scale) , you'll know iI'm having painting problems. I've painted a few things in the past. It worked out fine. I now find I can't paint anything anymore. The old rattle cans in my basement worked fine for the few things I did. I understand that one paints Arnt compatible. But how do you tell before its too late? I've recently purchased a safe for plastic primer, and the same brand paint. When top coating it became a mess. Also I've painted with the same brand, same type of paint for a top coat/ clear coat. Same results, cracking, etc. I'm making a mess and accruing a ton of spray paint that I'm afraid to use. It doesn't have to be perfect but the time I waste trying to get it to look Ok is killing me. Anyone have any recommendations for rattle cans, for plastic, tin, etc. Or should I just kick the cow now and buy a spray gun.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

what do you mean you purchased a safe for primer?
Where are you doing the painting?

I am waiting for warmer weather to do my painting.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Safe to use on plastic paints. Not a special box for priming. I've got a portable heater and some work lights set up for heat. Makeshift cardboard boxes for a paint box.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Also,do you heat your paint before spraying?


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

To add insult to injury, my 2 yo daughter covered her torso with washable markers witch seem to look better and are more permanent then my recent paint jobs. I really can't win! (you can still see the marker even after a bath).


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Yes, I heat the paint. And i heat the metal ( haven't heated the plastic). I've dried it in the oven on low and high temperatures. I've dried it at room temperature. I tryed light coats and heavy. I sanded in between and let it ride. I've let the paint dry according to the directions, and then some. I've got multiple projects in various states of painting and stripping. Some peices come out fine. It could be, as I want to do a better job, I buy more expensive paint thats more specific to the materials being painted. I don't know!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

sjm9911 said:


> To add insult to injury, my 2 yo daughter covered her torso with washable markers witch seem to look better and are more permanent then my recent paint jobs. I really can't win! (you can still see the marker even after a bath).



:laugh: you should have took a picture that would be good for laughs when she gets older. :laugh:

Take your rattle cans and put them in a pot of hot tap water, not boiling hot but hot.
Let them heat up for 5 mins or so.
I run mine under fairly hot water for a while as I am shaking the crap out of them. 

Do you heat them like that?

I do that even in the summer but more so in the winter.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Exactly what I do. I also heat the metal in the oven for 15 minutes on 150 degrees. Rough up the surface in nessasery. I don't have a clue what I'm doing wrong!


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## I Am Fasha (Apr 2, 2013)

I"ve never painted and thing with spray cans that I heated. Or heated anything that I have ever painted with spray cans. Is this heating paint/item to be painted, a common thing to this hobby?


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

The guy who told me that trick used to restore and fix gumball machines. It had something to do with the paint drying to fast. The warm paint on the warm metal made for smoother finish. But with advancements in paint is it making the finish worse? That's why I want to know what others use and do. This technique worked great with older spray paint but now I bought some newer stuff and can't seem to get anything right! My current attempt is with no heat, heater etc, just spray it.


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## I Am Fasha (Apr 2, 2013)

I have always painted my models with an airbrush. But when I started, I used testors spray can primer. I have since given that up and and use the airbrush to spray a flat white primer prior to painting.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I'm not using hobby paint. Just hd/lowes/ auto store paint. I liked the auto store paint but it drys real slow.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

So this is where I'm at today. 3 quick top coats over 2 coats of primer. I'm afraid to clear coat after 3 days or for that matter put a Finnish coat on. The pictures don't show it but you can see the primer on some parts of the red shell I also forgot to use the body filler as this is the 4th repaint and strip . The red shell is a rehab of a beat up prewar Lionel. The yellow will be a searchlight car in my repaint firefighter train. Any advice, skip the finish coats and leave well enough alone? More time then recommend to cure before a finish coat? Throw ideas at me please!


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## I Am Fasha (Apr 2, 2013)

I would give it a week to dry. Dont rush it. After the week, give it one more coat to cover the primer that is showing, let it sit another week and then clear coat.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I always warm the rattle can up while shaking the crap out of it. It helps mix it up real good. But not too hot.
I never cooked the part I was going to paint in the oven before or after.

And I do the painting when it is warm outside, I then let mine sit in the picture window to "bake" the paint on.

I don't like some of the new spray heads at all, I think they shoot too much paint out.

Are you using the same brand name for the primer and top coat. Sometimes there are compatibility problems if you mix the primer and top coat brands.

They look good in your pictures. The yellow looks good, I can see the red is screwed up a little in the closeup.

Was this the locomotive you tried to paint the chrome or silver?
Or is this another?
I will have to go back and search.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

That the same one ed, the 259e. It looks better in person. And I'm using the same brands when painting. But that didn't work for the last clear cost I did. I had to restrip. Also I used a safe for use on plastic paint and primer in one on a plastic tanker shell. It started to melt the shell. Not good . I can't figure these new paints out.


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## Gansett (Apr 8, 2011)

I wouldn't go to extremes in warming paint. I'd stick to the recommendations listed on the can. Remember that paint needs time to 'flow out' and to 'level'. If too warm it will dry before it flows or levels. Warming the item that's to be painted will accelerate the drying process and really cut into the level process. My 2¢


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Ok, thanks guys. I'm leaving this to set up for a bit. I'm not even going to look at it so I'm not tempted to shoot a quick chat on it.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

What is wrong with the yellow one?


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Nothing yet! I'm afraid to give it a second coat!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Does it really need a second coat?
It looks good from what I see, though I always second coat anything I paint. Even brushed on wall paint.

When you second coat, do you heat the piece to be painted again in the oven before hand?

I never heated any piece that I paint. 
But like I said I do heat the rattle can some, you never know how long the can has been sitting. I also don't like some of the new sprayer tips made to paint with the can upside down or sideways. They throw too much paint out! Plus I like to clear the nozzle after using with those tips you can't.
I also paint in the warm weather, I am waiting right now to do my Flying Yankee.
But when it gets warmer, I don't like to shoot in the basement.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

No I dont reheat the shell, I lookes Ok but I was always told to paint a few coats for durability.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Ok repaint today. I'll post pictures soon. Whatever it ends up being will be good enough for me. I'm not after perfection anymore. I just got a new peice for my firefighter train. After I get it to run, I hope, I'll only be missing a work caboose. I'll post pictures when, if, I finish it.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Ok , a little progress. This is the tanker that reacted with the plastic primer . I just kept repainting it until it smoothed itself out. Good enough is good enough! Its going to be in big eds inspired fire train.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Should be Fire engine red or have some flames on it. :smilie_daumenpos:


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I'm alternating ed. The only cheap ladder car I could find was yellow. It was beat up but for 15$ plus shipping it works. I also got two Thomas cars and a missile launcher car. The red car I picked up a while back. Ill have a yellow search light car and a red engine to pull it. Yellow was a fad for the fire service, it was easiest to see. The problem was everyone was used to red and didn't get out of the way of a yellow thing with lights. If you think yellows bad Newark fooled around with lime green.


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## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

People refer to "lime green" on some fire trucks. Actually lime green is the color of a lime...green. What the fire service uses (my dept still does) is called lime-yellow. We've had the color since 1976 and people here are used to it. When we're on the move, they get outa the way. Not sure if it's the color, the lights, the 100+ db siren, or the 120+ db air horn!!


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## Davidfd85 (Jul 4, 2011)

Well ya'll do know how to fix somebody that won't get out of the way right?
When they do finally pull over for you, that bumper mounted "Q" that should be on the right side along with the in bumper mounted air horns both get cranked full bore all the way down the side of the car/truck. With that much head rattling noise they normally learn for the next time.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Wow, people actually move out of the way in other states! Over here they go slower or stop in the middle of the road. No amount of noise will name em move! I had two cars at a green light stop right in front of me, I had to cross over to the other side of the street by way of an island! Color wise I'm partial to the old fashioned red!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

sjm9911 said:


> Color wise I'm partial to the old fashioned red!


Me too, Fire engine red.

Here is what you ought to get your little Suzy cutie to ride the neighborhood in.:smilie_daumenpos:


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Chiming in late to the party ...

I've done quite a few prewar tinplates in red with decent results. I use the red (rust, actually) colored primer, first, then typically two topcoats. Each topcoat is a few light sprays a few minutes apart, with the topcoats a day or so apart. I create "coat-hanger poking up from foam" supports to hold the parts while spraying, to avoid any finger contact. I'd guess I'm holding the rattle can about 10" away, with parallel back and forth sweeps ... pushing the nozzle on/off with each and every sweep. Never hold the nozzle down with the can pointed in one spot.

I've tried just a couple of things in yellow, but in my experience here, yellow paint has very poor coverage. Lots more coats needed.

As I said in your other thread, I think that 259 looks really great!

Cheers,

TJ


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Tj, any and all advice is good. Ok so my light unit is coming along. The light is still being painted. I had to replace the roller truck and run a new wire. The paint on the shell cane out nice, Primed then two coats of paint and clear coat. The paint job on the light unit itself cracked, it's being re striped. I come to the realization that paint and me don't mix! (and yes ed I know the decals are a bit off). Good enough for government work!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

You ought to hand paint the motor/generator assembly.
Detail it out in different colors, engine, exhaust, generator, filters, box, starter, radiator, etc.

You good with a small brush?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

big ed said:


> You ought to hand paint the motor/generator assembly.
> Detail it out in different colors, engine, exhaust, generator, filters, box, starter, radiator, etc.
> 
> You good with a small brush?


*Nothing is so easy as the job you imagine someone else doing!*


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Ed, you mean to paint all the detail parts in different colors, hmm . I got some brushes and testor paints. I've even got chrome. It might be a fun project. On the other hand, I'm leaving it red. You really want this thread to live on don't you!


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## oldsarge218 (May 23, 2011)

I would suggest that if you do any amount of painting at all,,,,,get yourself a compressor and air brush set up. (Paasche has kits available on Amazon for about $160.00, includes the compressor). Once you try it, you will find that it is the only way to go. Adds some fun to the subject, also. I bought mine about one month ago,,,,already thinking that I have to add some detail to my riding lawn mower! Anyway, just my humble opinion.

God Bless
Bob


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> *Nothing is so easy as the job you imagine someone else doing!*


I could paint that I am not imagining anything. Just because you may not be able to don't think that it is hard. A small brush would make easy work doing what I was only suggesting. 
If it is out of your realm of confidence by all means do not attempt to paint it.



sjm9911 said:


> Ed, you mean to paint all the detail parts in different colors, hmm . I got some brushes and testor paints. I've even got chrome. It might be a fun project. On the other hand, I'm leaving it red. You really want this thread to live on don't you!


Your leaving what red?
It looks like it is brown/orange?









I want the thread to live on?
I thought the reason for any thread was to cause discussion on the subject.

I just stated that the generator sitting on the car would look nice detailed out.
You don't want any more thoughts, so be it.
That is it for me, let the thread die now.:smokin:


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Ok, it's not red. I was going to paint it red but didn't. I figured you wanted me to detail it so I would suffer. I can't paint the shells well, how am I supposed to detail that!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

sjm9911 said:


> Ok, it's not red. I was going to paint it red but didn't. I figured you wanted me to detail it so I would suffer. I can't paint the shells well, how am I supposed to detail that!


Why did you answer?
Do you want the thread to die? 
Now I got to answer.

This one I did not do, but I might add some paint to it to it. 
You can see the box he painted black, a little yellow is bleeding through.
When I get the car out I will post a picture of the other side.
If that is OK with you? :smokin:

What you need is the right brushes. (this is the first one I found)
See the different types in a set?
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/abs/absfa-002.htm
You can spend more and get a good artist set, they are made with different materials and last longer.

And what the brush is made of makes a difference too, if you take care of them they last a long time.
Also a lot of cheap brushes work good for blending on something like my Rock.
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=5314

Though my pictures don't show the true colors, most of the painting I did on it was from a brush assortment pack like the one I linked here. All done a little at a time with small brushes. 
Though my brushes was a larger assortment pack, but I did use a lot of "cheap" brushes to blend in colors. I used nothing larger then a 1/4" brush, a little at a time.

Some of the smaller brushes I have, you have to look at with a magnifying glass to see the end. It looks like there is none with the naked eye. They are good for poky dots.

But like I said It was only a suggestion.
Not a demand.:smokin:
Though going with your theme for your Fire train, I do think at least red generator engine would look better.:thumbsup:


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I could probably do that! I thought you ment ever screw and bolt! Just busting my chops. Sad part is it will take me 4 tries. I'll post the full fire train soon. I haven't ordered my parts yet (for the engine) and might get some better decals, where do they sell them,? I also had to re paint the lights few times, the body was Ok but the light had a bad reaction. Painting isn't my thing!


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## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

What brands are you using/mixing? Even if you are using the same brand some cracking issues may develop. Tamiya laquers are notorious for nasty surprizes. The clear over-coat has to be applied weeks after leaving ample time for the colour-coat to completely cure and gas out. When colour coating I do my coats at one go, if once delayed then waiting at least a week for off-gassing is the norm before applying more.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I can agree with that. I've tried to recoat a day or two later, it usually doesn't go well. If you recoat all in one session, it works much better.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I'm learning that the hard way. I'm also impatience which adds the the mess. I want to finish the job, but it takes time. Live and learn. Thanks.


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