# O gage track tips



## mwpeber (Dec 5, 2011)

I am having difficulty getting some pins out of O scale track. Any tips on getting the pins out without damaging the track?'

Also, when I join sections, it is sometimes very difficult to get all three rails on the the two tracks to mate nicely without a gap between the rails. Any tips on good methods to join track?


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## Texas Pete (Sep 28, 2011)

Assuming tubular track - To remove track pins use a diagonal wire cutter (dikes). Place it against the base of the rail with the handles down and grab the pin, not too hard, with the top of the cutter. Then lever the pin out of the rail by rocking the cutter against the base of the rail.

I've given up on getting all track section joints together flush. Some do, some don't, no matter what I try. I'd be interested in knowing if there's a fail-safe method.

Pete


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Texas Pete said:


> Assuming tubular track - To remove track pins use a diagonal wire cutter (dikes). Place it against the base of the rail with the handles down and grab the pin, not too hard, with the top of the cutter. Then lever the pin out of the rail by rocking the cutter against the base of the rail.
> 
> I've given up on getting all track section joints together flush. Some do, some don't, no matter what I try. I'd be interested in knowing if there's a fail-safe method.
> 
> Pete


I don't think you will get all the rail perfectly flush no matter what you do.
Though it should be close, how big is your gap?


I once saw an advertisement for a clamp like device that hooked to both sides and you pushed on an arm down so the track would draw together tight.
I can't find it. I went and searched the net, it might have been in an old magazine.hwell:

I wrote it off as it was over $25 bucks for something I can do myself with my hands.



















Here is a diagram showing what he said.

Edit,

Squirt a little WD 40 on the pins before you try pulling, after you get them out make sure you clean them to make them shiny. 
It effects your track being powered. Clean is better.


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## Texas Pete (Sep 28, 2011)

big ed said:


> I once saw an advertisement for a clamp like device that hooked to both sides and you pushed on an arm down so the track would draw together tight.
> I can't find it. I went and searched the net, it might have been in an old magazine.hwell:


The T-Tracker II, page 84 CTT January 2012 issue. No web presence I'm aware of. I use leather work gloves to push the track together tight as I can get it, then I move on.

Pete

ps - Thanks for the diagram. Kinda hard to describe verbally, innit.


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## mwpeber (Dec 5, 2011)

The outer rails are a little easier to get together, but some of the inner rails have a gap of 1/16" or so.

What's a good method to clean the pins. I have a number of rusty ones but they are pretty difficult to shine up with steel wool, which I have been using.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Texas Pete said:


> The T-Tracker II, page 84 CTT January 2012 issue. No web presence I'm aware of. I use leather work gloves to push the track together tight as I can get it, then I move on.
> 
> Pete
> 
> ps - Thanks for the diagram. Kinda hard to describe verbally, innit.


Thanks to Thors site for the diagram, http://www.thortrains.net/manual5.htm



I said an old magazine.

Is it with what I described sort of? A clamp like device that draws them together? How much is it?


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Track 101


http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=2433&highlight=tubular+track


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

DO NOT USE STEEL WOOL TO CLEAN TRACK. DO NOT USE SANDPAPER TO CLEAN TRACK.

The steel wool will get into the works, particularly if you have locos with magnetraction, and jam things up pretty good.

Use a ScotchBrite pad to clean the top of the rails after you assemble layout.

If you want to clean the pins, I recommend a wire wheel on a drill motor or on a bench grinder. 

You also need to make sure the open ends of the track sections are clean. You can buy small wire brushes from McMaster Carr.

Lionel recommends that you squeeze the open ends of the track section to make them tight with the mating pins. I used that method with limited success for many years until I came up with something much better.

With the pins of the track section pointing away from you, grab the left outside rail with a pair of pliers where the pin is installed and bend it to the left slightly. Ditto with the center rail except bend it to the right. Now when you connect the track sections, there will be contact pressure on the pins and the inside of both the section where the pins are installed and the mating section. This makes a much better connection than Lionel's method and you only have to do it once. You can take the track sections apart as many times as you want to and reassemble them without bending the track again. Saves a lot of time, the track doesn't come apart when you run the trains, and the connections between the sections are much better.


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## mwpeber (Dec 5, 2011)

Thanks for the tip! No steel wool makes sense.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

mwpeber said:


> Thanks for the tip! No steel wool makes sense.


No sand paper either. It will take off the rails plating.


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## Texas Pete (Sep 28, 2011)

big ed said:


> Is it with what I described sort of? A clamp like device that draws them together? How much is it?


Exactly. ~$200 I think I read in another forum.

Pete


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

mwpeber said:


> I am having difficulty getting some pins out of O scale track. Any tips on getting the pins out without damaging the track?'
> 
> Also, when I join sections, it is sometimes very difficult to get all three rails on the the two tracks to mate nicely without a gap between the rails. Any tips on good methods to join track?


The reason you have trouble with som eof the pins is they're crimped in at the factory! Look closely at the side of the rails about 1/4-3/8" in. This happens to be O27 track, but O31 does a similar crimp.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Texas Pete said:


> Exactly. ~$200 I think I read in another forum.
> 
> Pete



DAM $200 bucks! That looks sort of like the one I saw.
No wonder I dismissed the ideal of getting one.



gunrunnerjohn said:


> The reason you have trouble with som eof the pins is they're crimped in at the factory! Look closely at the side of the rails about 1/4-3/8" in. This happens to be O27 track, but O31 does a similar crimp.




I never knew that John, I will have to have a look at my rail.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

It's done with new factory track, that piece happens to be a fairly new one that I have on my workbench to test stuff on. I've run across the crimps on a lot of the O31 track when cleaning it up, my first step is always to take all the pins out, clean up the track, then use the tiny SS rotary brush to clean inside the rail ends.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

If you want to re-crimp the pins, you can use an ordinary crimping tool for wire lugs. Don't come over the top of the pin. Hold the crimping tool almost parallel to the track and come under the pin. Works good.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Never thought of re-crimping them, it's enough of a PITA to get the pins out the first time!


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

I have found that if you don't re-crimp them, they tend to slide into the rail when you try to join two sections together.


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

I have a mechanic friend who has a cache of cheap-o and old tools around that he uses to fabricate custom pliers, crimpers, cutters, holders, spoons, etc. It might be worth while coming up with some sort of track "multi-tool" that could grip pins perfectly and then re-crimp the rails once the job was done. It could also incorporate a reamer for re-establishing the correct profile of the opening at the end of the tubular rails.

I would think such a tool would be helpful to O-Scale railroaders everywhere.

Anyway. Just an idea.

 <--- still thinking


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

There are tubular track pliers that have a round opening partway up the jaw ... this lets you skirt around the tube part of the rail while squeezing the flat lower part of the rail ...

One of many ebay examples ...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lionel-ST-3...533383?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item27c167da87

TJ


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## Big Mike (Dec 2, 2011)

servoguy said:


> DO NOT USE STEEL WOOL TO CLEAN TRACK. DO NOT USE SANDPAPER TO CLEAN TRACK.
> 
> The steel wool will get into the works, particularly if you have locos with magnetraction, and jam things up pretty good.
> 
> ...


kinda like how fastrack is made,I don't understand why people still use that OLD track when better is available,not only lionel ,but atlas,gargraves,MTH ,
etc.maybe money the problem???? Just wondering.


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## Texas Pete (Sep 28, 2011)

Big Mike said:


> ...I don't understand why people still use that OLD track when better is available...


Well now, "better" is in the eye of the beholder, eh. Even if I wasn't interested in the retro look, I still would use O-31 tube track, because _to me_ it's "better" than the other track systems.

Lionel missed the boat with the minimum O-36 curves of too loud Fastrack, and while MTH "real"trax at least got the geometry right, it just looks too dorky with that jive tie spacing.

Track choice is a personal thang.

Pete


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Big Mike said:


> kinda like how fastrack is made,I don't understand why people still use that OLD track when better is available,not only lionel ,but atlas,gargraves,MTH ,
> etc.maybe money the problem???? Just wondering.



Mike,I guess you are running fast track?
I can't find any pictures of your RR.

I would think cost would be a factor especially in today's economy.:smokin:


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

I have boxes full of O-31 track. I also have many crossings and 86 022 switches. Start figuring the cost of replacing all of that with FasTrack and you will understand why I use it.

Also, I can get more track in a given space using O31 as opposed to the 36" diameter of FasTrack. I am not making a model railroad. I am playing with trains. It is not the same thing.

When I was a kid in the '50s, I wanted O31 track, and couldn't afford it. This is part of what makes me use O31.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

One more thing. O-31 track can be easily cut to any desired length. The 022 switches can also be cut down to make a yard with the tracks close together.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

I started with O27 because it was the only track I could use that gave me the tight curves I needed in my small basement. I also really like the postwar engines and rolling stock. As I build my new layout, I'm going to retain a bunch of the O27, and add in O31 pretty much because it's a lot more affordable and I really like the classic look. 

I spent yesterday restoring a Lionel 736 engine that a friend of mine boxed away 20 years ago. As a kid, he cleaned his track with steel wool, and the Magentraction in that engine had sucked up every loose fiber. Those fibers then got sucked up into the grease in the engine, and it was everywhere. (Another thread with photos coming later today covering that.)

Stick with the scotchbrite pads and Goo Gone or track cleaner from your LHS. I gave my friend a scotchbrite and bottle of cleaner yesterday and made him sit in the corner cleaning up a pile of track. It's boring, tedious work but has to be done.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

erkenbrand said:


> I gave my friend a scotchbrite and bottle of cleaner yesterday and made him sit in the corner cleaning up a pile of track. It's boring, tedious work but has to be done.



Some friend you are!

Was that punishment for something?:laugh:


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

I originally gravitated to Fastrack because I found a laundry basket-full at a goodwill for a steal of a price. I also liked the idea that the built in roadbed would offer better isolation than open rail (tubular, K-Line SuperSnap, etc) when putting a layout right on carpet.

That being said, Texas is right - FasTrack is louder that tubular track, tubular track is cheaper on a per-foot basis, is WAY easier to manipulate when an odd size is needed, and if you want, is available in O27 radius (for those compact layouts), and is WIDELY available on the used market. Tubular track is also more aesthetically pleasing when running tinplate trains - they just look "off" on FasTrack.

I can see why MANY people stick with the tubular track. If I were to really start an empire layout, I'd think long and hard about going with tubular. In the long run, it would probably be more economical, EVEN WITH having to "re-buy" the track inventory I have, simply due to the above mentioned points.

FWIW.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Ed - I was bringing his 763 engine back to life, and trying to get all of the steel wool out of the running gear. He deserved a couple of hours with scotchbrite and cleaner. Next, I need to work with him to replace all of the track that he attacked with the steel wool. He's trying to get an operational loop going for his 3 year old son to watch.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

erkenbrand said:


> Ed - I was bringing his 763 engine back to life, and trying to get all of the steel wool out of the running gear. He deserved a couple of hours with scotchbrite and cleaner. Next, I need to work with him to replace all of the track that he attacked with the steel wool. He's trying to get an operational loop going for his 3 year old son to watch.



Steel wool!

Tell him a grinder will fix them up better.:laugh:


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

While working with the scotchbrite the question of using the wire wheel on the grinder did come up . . .


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Best way I know to remove steel wool from magnets is with tape. Use something sticky like masking tape or duct tape. I had a problem a few years ago with a brushless DC motor. The tech had laid the rotor (with the magnets) on the bench, not thinking that it might get contaminated. We got the FOD off with masking tape. Clean the grease off first so the tape will stick. Brake Clean ought to be good for cleaning off the grease. After the operation, you will need to lube the loco.

You can remove the steel wool from track with a strong magnet. Put the magnet inside a plastic bag so you can easily remove the steel wool from the magnet and capture the steel wool in the bag.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

That's a great idea. I wish I'd posted last night! 

I spent a lot of time with Qtips and Goo Gone. Once all of the grease was out, the metal bound up in the cotten pretty well and came away from the magnets.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I use a video tape degaussing coil to demagnetize my track, then you can vacuum up the steel wool.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

erkenbrand said:


> While working with the scotchbrite the question of using the wire wheel on the grinder did come up . . .



I meant a grinder without the wire wheel.
Just the grinder.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

John, once again your brilliance shines through.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

erkenbrand said:


> John, once again your brilliance shines through.


It's just that I come from an age where a VCR tape bulk eraser was a useful item.  As it turns out, it's again useful.


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## KarenORichmond (Nov 14, 2011)

big ed said:


> Mike,I guess you are running fast track?
> I can't find any pictures of your RR.
> 
> I would think cost would be a factor especially in today's economy.:smokin:


Cost was absolutely the factor. The tubular was so much cheaper (even new) and the cost of the switches as well.


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## mwpeber (Dec 5, 2011)

After all this feedback. I feel a bit like a duche and need to sit in the corner and clean up my track from steel wool fibers  On the plus side, I luckily haven't run my one and magnetraction locomotive over the rails yet.


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## NorCalTransplant (Dec 6, 2011)

Hey, sorry to but in guys but do people ballast the old style tube track? I imagine it wouldn't look all that realistic, but I cant even find an example of someone doing it. I figure if someone has, someone here would know about it.  Thanks.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Sure, lots of people ballast tubular track. If you want it to look a bit more realistic, you could also consider adding dummy ties to make it look more like real track.


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## Big Mike (Dec 2, 2011)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Sure, lots of people ballast tubular track. If you want it to look a bit more realistic, you could also consider adding dummy ties to make it look more like real track.


see, rather than do all that, adding ties,ballast,cork bed ect. just use fastrack,yea ,I use it ,its ok gets dirty quick but works and looks great,the switches are kinda high but hey, its only money,right? and fastrack switches DO NOT DERAIL! BTW I knew I would piss some one off with my reply to this post.


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## Big Mike (Dec 2, 2011)

big ed said:


> Mike,I guess you are running fast track?
> I can't find any pictures of your RR.
> 
> I would think cost would be a factor especially in today's economy.:smokin:


 big ed ,I haven't put any up yet, BUT THEY ARE COMMING SOON ,working on a little problem ,as soon as I get it worked out I am going to borrow my daughter's camera,and do a nice video...........Mike


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## NorCalTransplant (Dec 6, 2011)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Sure, lots of people ballast tubular track. If you want it to look a bit more realistic, you could also consider adding dummy ties to make it look more like real track.


Anyone have a picture of this? Where can I locate these dummy ties as well? Thanks!


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

Big Mike said:


> see, rather than do all that, adding ties,ballast,cork bed ect. just use fastrack,yea ,I use it ,its ok gets dirty quick but works and looks great,the switches are kinda high but hey, its only money,right? and fastrack switches DO NOT DERAIL! BTW I knew I would piss some one off with my reply to this post.


I'm not pissed off - like I said, I went with FasTrack out of convenience and opportunity - but tubular track has distinct advantages as well. If I was going to do the ties, ballast, and all that lot, I'd very likely go with FasTrack as well.

- Paul in AZ


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

I have some FasTrack, a lot of O-31 tubular, some O-27 tubular. For what I like to do, the O-31 is the best choice. FasTrack is difficult to cut to length and it is mucho $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$. I am buying 022 switches for $4-7.50. FasTrack switches are $100+. The FasTrack switches work well, but so do the 022s. So, it is O-31 for me.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

NorCalTransplant said:


> Anyone have a picture of this? Where can I locate these dummy ties as well? Thanks!


Have you seen this thread?

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?p=104490#post104490


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## mwpeber (Dec 5, 2011)

Badwolf & Arizona RR said:


> I'm not pissed off - like I said, I went with FasTrack out of convenience and opportunity - but tubular track has distinct advantages as well. If I was going to do the ties, ballast, and all that lot, I'd very likely go with FasTrack as well.
> 
> - Paul in AZ


I agree that the fastrack is very robust and reliable (should be for the price), but to be quite honest, I think the it looks kind of fake and too perfect. Using real stones and wooden ties if you choose on tubular track provides a different, and maybe more natural look and feel.


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## NorCalTransplant (Dec 6, 2011)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Have you seen this thread?
> 
> http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?p=104490#post104490


I hadnt, thank you for showing me.

:thumbsup:


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## mwpeber (Dec 5, 2011)

I would like to lay cork down below the track. What thickness and size of cork do you recommend for O scale? Are there better alternatives to cork?


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## Big Mike (Dec 2, 2011)

mwpeber said:


> I would like to lay cork down below the track. What thickness and size of cork do you recommend for O scale? Are there better alternatives to cork?


there is something else,it a black foam rubber that you can use,but every one I have spoken to does not like the foam,so I have never used it,so cork is all I used{ before I switched to fastrack}
when you go to your train \hobby shop tell them what gauge you are modeling,in your case its "o" scale, they should know witch size to sell you as each scale has its own size and thickness, and then its ballest time! FUN FUN!
.............MIKE


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## mwpeber (Dec 5, 2011)

Thanks Big Mike


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