# Broken Pilots... and The Tears That Follow



## seabilliau (Dec 12, 2011)

So, to sum up... Train fall down, go boom. As you can see from the photos it was a pretty clean break. I'm looking for ideas on how to best repair. I've already discovered solder does not stick as you can see from the schmutz on the edge of the pilot platform.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I have my Polar Express layout all set up and would hate to not have good ol' 1225


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

The T man would epoxy that up to look like new....better then new.


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## azhoracer (Sep 25, 2012)

I agree. I would try some JB weld and sand it to look nice.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

And then try to avoid launching it off the table and onto the floor.


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## seabilliau (Dec 12, 2011)

I read a thread on CTT while looking for ideas and someone said to epoxy a back plate since the repair will be at a very weak point. I was thinking of screwing a back back that the pilot could rest on and be epoxied to but would like to screw the plate into the horizontal part from below. Anyone have any tips on drilling into the metal?


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I would go crazy with a cutting wheel and fit up a postwar steam chest. Then if you break it again just change it out.

Another option is to mold up a complete front then attach it.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

JB Weld would be my weapon of choice. I'd also probably look to brace if from the rear to add strength.


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## seabilliau (Dec 12, 2011)

T, what do you mean by a post war steam chest?


Edit: googled it. Hmmm, might be kinda fun to do something like that, but I'm a little Leary of getting too deep into customizing as I'd hate to end up in a place that I can't fix my way out of.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

T-Man is talking about finding an old steamer shell with a similar pilot and grafting it on.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

The metal is an alloy of zinc and drills relatively easily. Make sure you lube the bit with WD-40 or some other lubricant or it may weld itself to the metal. Don't ask how I know these things. You could drill and tap for 2 or 3 4-40 screws and grind off whatever sticks through the hole. Take a piece of brass and make something to reinforce the pilot from the rear. It appears that the center bar of the pilot is large enough you could drill and tap it for some 2-56 or 1-72 or 0-80 screws. You can buy small screws and taps from McMaster Carr. When you are tapping the holes, lube the tap with WD-40 and hold the tap wrench in one hand and the work piece in the other hand. This reduces the chance of breaking the tap. Be gentle. Make sure the tap is going straight into the hole and don't force anything.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The whole lower front, bolts on to the boiler from the underside including the steps. No one ever asked to see a picture before. Ebay has shells with and without the steamchest. I am not familiar with the engine so it may not even work. The whole upper part of yours will have to be filled in to have something to grab and hold. You will lose some grating.

This is just an example and not the best choice. The 224 does not have the boxy front.


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## lionellines (May 18, 2011)

I would think a good 5 minute epoxy would be a much better, stronger adhesive than JB Weld. I'd use the epoxy to adhere the pilot, then possibly JBW or Bondo to smooth out the body work before painting. What a mess.


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## broox (Apr 13, 2012)

Its too far gone :sly:

You know what needs to be done


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## old464 (Oct 12, 2011)

what about unscrewing the steam chest from the main body and replacing the whole front like the old 442 lionels? can you do this because that would be best look. all the JB weld might still be weak and fall off from the thumping around the platform. 

not easy!
Chris


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I would JB-Weld (the slow-cure stuff) in two steps ...

1. Epoxy on the cowcatcher ... you may want to grind / even-out the mating segements, first.

2. After that fully cures, I would go back and add 3 small bent flatbars to the back of the pilot ... one on either side, and one in the center ... each bent to about 120-degrees from the underside of the flat deck to the back of the cowcatcher rails.

My thinking, anyway.

TJ


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## seabilliau (Dec 12, 2011)

Thank you. All great ideas. I think I'll go with the epoxy though and suport with a brass backing.

Of course, first I need to solve the wobble. I need to determine if it's the tires or a bent axle. Based on how the axles are put together and what it would cost to fix on my own I might be better off just buying a new loco on ebay if the price is right. I'd rather fix, but just a thought.


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## seabilliau (Dec 12, 2011)

broox said:


> Its too far gone :sly:
> 
> You know what needs to be done



I could sell my son on this


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## Big Mike (Dec 2, 2011)

but wait, the little 1225 berk. is so plentyfull, why even bother with tring to repair it? I would just get a replacement,and keep this one for parts.
I mean, we are not talking a lot of money here, it not like this is a rare loco or something JMO...........Mike


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## seabilliau (Dec 12, 2011)

You're right, but I'm having fun learning about fixing trains thru this one right now. Now it's a challenge to get it working which makes it more fun. If I fail I will for sure be getting another. It's a pretty rugged loco even though it's been thru hell.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

If it were mine, I would fix it. Just to prove that I could do it.


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## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

servoguy said:


> If it were mine, I would fix it. Just to prove that I could do it.


Ditto...:thumbsup:


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## seabilliau (Dec 12, 2011)

JB Weld is the fo-shizzle!

Now I just have to get rid of that dang wiggle. Took out all the wheels and straightened any that seemed bent but didn't work. This thing shakes so much down the track I think it ordered fries to go with itself 

Not the prettiest work but for my first time using jb Im happy with result. It's now hugo proof.


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## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

There ya go...after paint, only you will know wassup... :thumbsup:


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

You can use a black Sharpie to touch up the paint chips. Ditto the brass rods. I have used a Sharpie to touch up several locos and tenders. The touched up places will have a purple sheen under some lighting conditions, but this will disappear after a while.


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

Looks pretty nice. JB Weld is you bestest friend. Been using that stuff longer than I care to admit. I do have to say, when I first saw it all those years ago I was skeptical, now i swear by it.

Carl


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## broox (Apr 13, 2012)

I've heard of JB weld being used, in extreme situations, to repair engine blocks as a temporary fix 

Never used it, but I hear good things.


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

I used JB Weld to fix an oil leak in one of my son's cars.

2 part epoxy rules!

I recently went back to my boyhood home. 50+ years ago, my father repaired concrete with epoxy. It has been outside in all kinds of weather, and is still holding strong.


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## Big Mike (Dec 2, 2011)

I'm glad you guys found a product you like,I gess ,what ever works.


Mike :thumbsup:


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Nice work on the pilot, a little touchup and it's as good as new. :thumbsup:

I'm an old JB Weld fan, I have used it for any number of projects, trains and otherwise. I keep it on hand at all times!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Ditto on the thumbs-up to the cowcatcher repair ... nice rebuild!

And ditto to the thumbs-up on JB Weld ...

... I'm waiting for some company to come out with coffins made of the stuff ... I'd last an eternity before the bugs and worms crawled my way!!!

TJ


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## seabilliau (Dec 12, 2011)

Thanks for the encouraging words. Once I get some more replacement parts for the shell from Lionel I'll post some cleaned up picks of ol'1225. Hopefully, not wiggling.


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## seabilliau (Dec 12, 2011)

She... Is... Alive!!!!!!!!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

That looks great, nice job bringing her back to life. :thumbsup:

One warning, *DON'T DROP IT AGAIN*!


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Hey, John, he has all the procedures developed for gluing it back on. If he drops it again, he just glues it on again. No sweat.


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## seabilliau (Dec 12, 2011)

I noticed that the images on the first post were gone (Probably to my fooling around in Photobucket) and I can't edit that post anymore for some reason. I wanted to keep it all up so that the next guy who does this and thinks all hope is lost realizes that it can be done.

So here are the original images of the 1225 with the pilot broken and wheels bent... whistle missing... um... bell gone...and, er... broken other parts.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Chris,

That repair work looks FABULOUS! One would never know ... and that's the hightest compliment!

(But remember to pay proper homage to the Gravity Gods in the future!)

TJ


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

Looks great! Nice job indeed.

And on the 8th day, God created two part epoxy, and he said, "It is good".


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