# Do track cleaning cars really work good?



## Robes

I just put together a quick oval on the floor in the guest room to run an engine. I have about 40 feet of brass Atlas (83), Playart, and IHC track. The engine is real herky jerky and runs good on some sections and not on others. I read up on the problem and it sounds like dirty track. Just wiping the rail with my finger I get a sooty film. I am going to the hobby shop later this week (once the blizzard shuts down) to see if he has any of those track cleaning pads.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

The cleaning cars probably work, but it's a lot easier to just use some Scotchbrite on the track, followed with a clean rag to remove any residue. That should do the trick.


----------



## concretepumper

gunrunnerjohn said:


> The cleaning cars probably work, but it's a lot easier to just use some Scotchbrite on the track, followed with a clean rag to remove any residue. That should do the trick.


I have read not to use sand paper but I use 600 grit on my brass. My trains always run better after a quick lap with the 600.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I strongly recommend against the use of sandpaper on Lionel tubular rails. I suspect it's not the same issue as brass, you're just wearing away a bit of the track. With tubular track, you're removing the plating.


----------



## cabledawg

I made a drag block for mine. A piece of MDF the same width as the (HO scale) boxcar its attached to and about 2" long. Angle cut the front and rear edges and thin enough to "float" over the joints and turnouts. Take another piece of MDG, but smaller (so it will fit inside the boxcar body), drill two holes about an inch apart inthe top MDF and the floor of the car. Drive two nails through the top MDF, the floor and into the bottom MDF, but not so far to go out the bottom. Throw a piece of duct tape over the nail heads on the top so that the weight of the top MDF provides consistant and even pressure on the bottom MDF. You can runthis anywhere in the train, but the closer to the loco the better. Cleans while it rolls and every so often, wipe the block down with a cloth midly dampened with goo gone. Homosote is supposed to work better, but I had the MDF on hand already and so far it has worked quite well.

Edit: I added pics


----------



## gc53dfgc

well I do have a CSX track cleaning car but you must constantly pull it in a train tokeep the rails clean. i just use some isypropol alcohol and rub the track down and vuala it is shiny and spotless in just a few minutes.


----------



## shaygetz

I use Masonite pads mounted to nails (or magnets for antique tinplate). They work great in combination with an old Life-Like fluid car...
































































The Life-Like car is modified with Kadees and sprung trucks for better tracking.

Any abrasive method can do more harm than good so take care which way you go on that.


----------



## cabledawg

Shay, yours looks so much nicer than mine.


----------



## NIMT

I have a CMX clean machine HO. and I've used every method out there. My last layout had long runs and all the other methods gummed up and quit in a shot period of time.
Shaygetz's, and cabledawg's methods are the next best thing. And yes it is a lot cheaper of a method than the CMX.
If you only have short runs, rubbing down the track with a good cloth like tee shirt material wet-ed with either rubbing alcohol or denatured alcohol is quick and painless. Brass track is especially troublesome and prone to quick oxidation, don't forget to clean the engine wheels too.


----------



## raleets

Guys,
I have a grand total of about 70' of Bachmann E-Z NS on my 4'X8' layout, all of which is easily accessible. I've been using the BrightBoy jobbie, but not rubbing alcohol afterward. Is the alcohol really required to finish the job?
And, should I use the vacuum to get up any little bits of debris?
Also, what's the best procedure for cleaning the loco wheels?
Thanks,
Bob


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I'm thinking of putting Scotchbrite pads on my Lionel track cleaning car.


----------



## NIMT

Wet a piece of cloth with alcohol laying on top of the tracks. Place one set of trucks on the cloth one on the track and run rotate and repeat.


----------



## raleets

Guess I'm a little dense. Let's see if I have this straight.
1) Wet a cloth with alcohol and lay it across the tracks.
2) Put one set of trucks on the cloth
3) Hold onto the loco while running it so the wheels "spin" on the alcohol soaked cloth
4) Repeat with the other set of trucks
Is this the deal?
Thanks,
Bob


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I just stick my engines in a cradle upside down and power them to spin the wheels and clean them.


----------



## NIMT

Yes sir you nailed it!
Cut out using any abrasive on your track it just compounds the problem, Micro scratches leave more surface to oxidize and spark.
Get a piece of homesite and rub the tracks manually that polishes more than removes and yes cleaning the track with alcohol after any type of cleaning is imperative to removing the fine soot off the rails.
Vacuuming is more of a do it to get rid of dust and debris kind of job.


----------



## NIMT

gunrunnerjohn,
That method works great with O but is really difficult with HO and N because the pickup points all spin.


----------



## Box Car Steve

*cleaning the track*

I've used electrical spray which seems to work for me...... I hope this stuff is ok to use! I have the nickle EZ track. So many great idea's!


----------



## Robes

Instead of vacuuming,... what about using a compressor and a fine nozzled gun to blow the crud off? ...nnnn what the deuce is "Homesite"?


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

NIMT.COM said:


> gunrunnerjohn,
> That method works great with O but is really difficult with HO and N because the pickup points all spin.


Well, that's a really good point!


----------



## NIMT

Electronics / Electrical contact spray is great, pricey, but great. 
Vacuuming and blowing air is fine till you have a lot of scenery or ballast to worry about then it can be disastrous, that's where a good track cleaning car comes in to play!


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Well, I have three or four cans of contact cleaner still around from my working days, so I'm set for awhile.


----------



## raleets

Sean & others,
Thanks for the great tips. By jove, I think I've got it! 
Bob


----------



## jzrouterman

raleets said:


> What's the best procedure for cleaning the loco wheels?
> Thanks,
> Bob


I use a Kadee electric wheel cleaner.

JZ


----------



## NIMT

jzrouterman,
I was going to suggest that but they quit selling them for HO and N because they can mess(kill) the DCC decoders in some locos. At least that's what I heard.


----------



## Robes

Check this out?...
http://cgi.ebay.com/HO-N-LOCOMOTIVE...861689?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item4cf52cb279


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

That's pretty cute, does the job.


----------



## shaygetz

I had a Kadee cleaner for nostalgia sake, I was never impressed with their performance. I prefer the aforementioned paper towel wetted with alcohol and spread over the track, allowing the locomotive to clean its own wheels. The drawback is that this only works well on locos with all wheel pickup/drive, knocking out most steamers. For them I use a Q-tip dipped in alcohol or Goof Off and just carefully go around the treads. It really doesn't take that long and is quite effective.


----------



## Xnats

Robes, where did you find my toothbrush :laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:
Since this tread is in full swing, does anyone know anything about this one? sorry about poor pics, battery was dieing.


----------



## jzrouterman

Robes said:


> Check this out?...
> http://cgi.ebay.com/HO-N-LOCOMOTIVE...861689?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item4cf52cb279


Nimt, thanks for the information. Robes, after reading what Nimt wrote about how they quit seillg these, I wondered for a moment about how long it would take them to figure out a way that would work good for both DC and DCC. Well, I guess it didn't take very long, lol. Thanks for the info, guys.

JZ


----------



## NIMT

All in the marketing.
DC Yesterday
DCC Today
Ion drive Tomorrow
Oh and by the way I have one and I've never cooked a chip from it!
The alcohol / rag method is still my favorite thou.


----------



## gc53dfgc

alcohol on a q-tip is by far the best way to clean an engines wheels and is also a good time to relube the engine. Alcohol on a paper towel or two is by far the quickest way to clean your track if you are not running a train that could haul a track cleaning car constantly to keep the track nice and clean.


----------



## mr_x_ite_ment

I made a track-cleaning car pretty much identical to shay's and cable's. I have the masonite with two nails attached going through two holes in the underside of a gondola. It works quite well for cleaning track. I do the soaked paper towel (Goo Gone cleaner), and touch the loco wheels to the track with one set on the paper towel. I do it on the manual turntable so it is a little easier to keep the wheels on the track.

Chad


----------



## Robes

I went to the hobby shop yesterday and picked up a Walthers Bright boy. I started in on the track and it works really good. The track was so dirty that it changed color (brighter) noticeably. Hoping to get to the rest of the track this afternoon. I agree with Sean,..it's all in the marketing. I would think holding the engine upside down would collect all the debris in the engine?


----------



## cabledawg

Then hold it right side up! :laugh:

No seriously, the guy that showed me the track cleaning gizmos (like the drag block and homemade wheel brush) cleans his locos right side up to keep crap from falling into the body where it could get into the motor and gears. 

I havent done the brush thing yet as my locos are fairly new and I cleaned them all when I did the decoder installs this past December. He bought a grill cleaning brush, pulled a strip of bristles out of the middle, then wound some stripped telephone wire through the others, keeping each side seperate so it doesnt short. He had a power terminal above each Loconet panel and would simply grab the loco and place the brush on the wheels, select that loco on the throttle and spin away. Hit stop, place it back on the track and drive. He seemed happy with it and spent less than five bucks on it. I should have taken a pic, but didnt think about it at the time.


----------



## dan

some of the black ez track i picked up, had a little build up on the one end...where the connections to each piece are made...when you guys talk about alcohol with a towel, or Q-tip...is this just regular rubbing alcohol that i can use to clean those areas well?


----------



## Xnats

That would be the stuff :thumbsup:


----------



## dan

thanks the way they were packaged up, i didnt see that part of the track when i bought it, but got a good price, just hope it all cleans up nice.


----------



## concretepumper

Here's mine I made and glued one of Shays cleaning pads to it. 
Thanks guys!


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I see you haven't needed that nail set yet.


----------



## dan

the cars that you guys make to clean the track are pretty cool, but i dont think my little one would like me doing that the cars, he likes em just how they are.



but i am going to get to work on fixing up the track with the alcohol and towels/qtips.


----------



## norgale

Clean your track with alcohol or whatever. Put some transmission fluid on both rails for about two inches and run your loco on that while holding it in that spot. Move the loco slowly back and forth through the fluid and walla! Your wheels are nice and clean. Wipe off the dirty fluid and put some more on lightly in the same two inches. Then just run your trains. Keeps the wheels clean and the track bright. Makes excellent electrical contact too. Much better than without the fluid. The only drawback with this is if you have any 2% grades on your layout. You may have to shorten a train if the wheels slip. Without any grades no problem. 
I read this somewhere this morning and I'll be trying it on my layout this weekend when I get to run it again. Sounds good to me and the tranny fluid won't hurt anything on your railroad. Pete


----------



## concretepumper

norgale said:


> Clean your track with alcohol or whatever. Put some transmission fluid on both rails for about two inches and run your loco on that while holding it in that spot. Move the loco slowly back and forth through the fluid and walla! Your wheels are nice and clean. Wipe off the dirty fluid and put some more on lightly in the same two inches. Then just run your trains. Keeps the wheels clean and the track bright. Makes excellent electrical contact too. Much better than without the fluid. The only drawback with this is if you have any 2% grades on your layout. You may have to shorten a train if the wheels slip. Without any grades no problem.
> I read this somewhere this morning and I'll be trying it on my layout this weekend when I get to run it again. Sounds good to me and the tranny fluid won't hurt anything on your railroad. Pete


Sounds good on a flat layout! I know oil would cause wheel spin for me and all my silly grades and tight turns! Let us know how this works for ya'! :thumbsup:


----------



## NIMT

Oil of any type will become a dust magnet so all that time cleaning will be lost in one night. I know it works, but so did steam engines, and they got replaced by better equipment! The only practical use of oil on the rails is if you are using old brass track it oxadizes at a much greater rate! But then again CP, uses a cleaning car on his brass track and he had a great running layout!


----------



## norgale

Good point NIMT. Hadn't thought about the dust collection on the oil. Could still be a good and easy way to clean the loco wheels though. Plus the oil will evaporate after awhile won't it? I'll give it a shot as soon as I get the chance and let you know what happens. Pete


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I've seen the recommendation for ATF other places, and I still maintain it has no place on your tracks.


----------



## Xnats

The May issue of Model Railroader has the article. It was a pretty interesting read. It is about a club that tried it out on their layout and they had all positive reports from their testing. 

Improve performance with transmission fluid
By Steve Carter
Automotive product improves wheel-to-rail electrical contact

pg. 58


----------



## jbsmith966

Automotive ATF has LOTS of detergents in it. 
So much you can clean your hands with it.
Learned that back in my autoshop days.
Still i would not use it to clean my tracks,,too messy.
ATF is a gear oil meant for conditions far more harsh than is to be found on any MRR.


But then asking "what is the best way to clean my tracks?" is like
asking "whats the best way too grill a T-bone?" ---you're going to get alot of different answers.

My layout is just the right size for the scotchbright on the first pass, followed by alcohol & old t-shirt method for serious cleaning time, plus the occaisional few laps with a track cleaning car in between serious cleanings.


----------



## jzrouterman

I have a track cleaning car, but it's not the kind with the fluid. Instead it has a hard abrasive pad underneith it that drags along the track. If given enough time and laps around the layout, it will do a halfway decent job. I have never really been impressed all that much with it though. 

The fluid types seem to work much better, but even then, track cleaning cars of any type are not really adaquate for sidings for obviuos reasons. For me, I use the old track erasor method. For cleaning the track in the inside of tunnels, on bridges (between the trusses) and other hard to reach places where a hand can't reach easily, I use a special round track cleaning abrasive block that is mounted by a screw to essentially what is a gun cleaning rod. It comes in three 12 inch sections that screw together. If I need a longer reach, I just screw another section of rod to it and visa versa. It works pretty decent.

John


----------



## andersley

*Dapol Track Cleaner*

This is the cleaner I used on my previous layout and will be used on ther new one to be built shortly.

The Dapol track cleaner as received. This will operate on DCC by plugging in a decoder.


















It was having severe current collection problems, so I soldered on additional current collectors onto the bogie pick up strips.
This improved matters a little, but the thing which improved it the most was polishing the blackened wheel treads. Current collection is now excellent. As supplied, the collection method is frankly pathetic.


----------



## andersley

Previous picture shows the unit fitted with the vacuum cleaner attachment. This is very effective, as can be seen in the picture below.









Below is seen the abrasive disc which was used first and it removed a lot of dirt. Next the unit was run with cleaning fluid
which seeps through the foam pad onto the rails, then the polishing head further cleans the rails.









The pads are fitted with a very soft spring which keeps the pad in coantact with the rails but does not exert too much pressure.









The car does a pretty good job, but still not as good as using an abrasive track rubber like the Peco one or bright boy where tracks are easily accessible, but is good for operating under catenary, hidden sidings, in tunnels, etc.


----------



## Westhaven

*Track Cleaning CAr*

Hi, Folks.

I had a hard time with the prices of track cleaning cars so I made one myself.
MODEL POWER puts out a series of really great cars. The line is called METAL TRAIN. I bought a "Linde" boxcar which weighs just over 14 ounces with the intention of converting it to clean tracks. 

I looked for some kind of a "leaf spreing" with enough tension to hold to the track without lifting the car off the rails. (Stainless steel was way to stiff.) One morning as I was preparing my cat's breakfast, I had to take the "lift tab, pull back and peel off" lid from the can and my problem was solved. I washed and dried the lid and was able to cut a strip 1-1/2" wide from it with a pair of scissors. 

Next I drilled two clearance size holes in the strip and two corresponding holes in the car bottom which are the right size for 6-32 machine screws. The holes in the car bottom are about 5/8" from the pivot point of one of the trucks. (See photo 1.)

I purposely bought a car with sliding doors (plug doors won't work) so I could get my finger inside the car to hold the 6-32 nut while I inserted and tightened the screw to hold the strip in place.

I gently bent the strip down so it hangs about 1/2" below the car wheels. (See photo 2.)

Using a postal scale, I found that this exerted about 2-3 ounces of pressure before the wheels meet the scale pad. This is sufficient weight on the rails to do the job.

Finally I bought 1/3 yard of white felt at Wal*Mart for a buck. I cut it in strips 1-1/2" wide and about 2-3" long and fold the strip over the end of the aluminum cat food strip and secure the felt with a rubber band. (See Photo 3)
(The felt strip I cut for the picture is a bit short so I would recommend cutting one about a 1/2"-1" longer so the rubber band does not contact the rails.) 

To clean the tracks, I use DENATURED alcohol since it has no oils in it like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. I pour about 1/2 teaspoon of alcohol onto the folded edge of the felt strip, place the car on the tracks and pull it around the with or without other cars. I can run it with a train since the cleaning apparatus is fairly non obtrusive.

The 2-3 ounces of pressure on the tracks is sufficient to clean the railheads without lifting the 14 ounce car at all. The job it does really surprised me. After running it around a small oval of track two or three times, there were two black stripes on the felt left by the crud on the rails. 

This whole project cost me $9.00 plus $1.00 for enough felt to clean rails for the next ten or fifteen years.

A few words of caution: 
1. This cleaning car can only be pulled or pushed in one direction with the attached end of it rolling forward.
2. Some rail joints may need to be filed down a bit to slightly "round" the top of the railhead where it was cut at the factory. If you don't file them, the burrs on the cut ends can catch and remove bits of felt as the car does its job. These railheads should be filed down ayway since the burrs can damage wheels in time.

This project was a snap to build and, using one of MODEL POWER'S METAL TRAIN CARS means you wont have to add any weight to the car. If you do use a lighter car, you will have to add some weight to keep it on the tracks.

Have fun.

Bill


----------



## New Berlin RR

I like it, nice idea!


----------



## Rangerover

Now that seems to me like what I was trying to dream up Westhaven, LOL I've tried everything else except I have yet to use any abrasive's not even 600 grit, so called polishing cloth, next time I build a layout no more mountain tunnels with curves and 3 to 4% grades, I'll make sure I got access to them! Thanks, Jim


----------



## norgale

I think that's just plain brilliant. Gonna have to try it. pete


----------



## Carl

Building your own track cleaning car makes a lot sense. I have two very much like the ones above. The first track cleaning car has a pad that I put rubbing alcohol on. The second car has a pad made from a Brite Boy pad. One could make a third car with a piece of wood that rides on the track, for polishing the track. Please make sure that anything riding on the track a it's front surface curved so that it will not catch on any track improvements.

I do not know if anyone has posted anything about NO-OX use on the rails. It works. It improves conductivity. All I have had to do is quick cleanings with rubbing alcohol.
Bar Mills and Walthers have NO-OX available. It is a little costly but if a few folks go together then can share the cost and the product. A little NO-OX goes a long way.


----------



## raleets

Hi, gang,
Just had to chime in here......about 6 months ago I was hot-to-trot to buy a quality track cleaning car, so I posted here asking for opinions.
Sean, from NIMT, suggested the CMX because it simply did a great job with so little effort or maintenance. When I checked it out I nearly fainted at the unbelievable price. Not only that, but there were no "deals" anywhere on that particular item. The price seemed to be "fixed" and end of story.
Well, after debating for a couple of months, I took Sean's advice and bit the bullet for a CMX track cleaning car. Guess what? It's one of the best decisions I've ever made, because that little gem WORKS like a dream.
Expensive? Yes! Does it do the job? YES!
Just fill the car with denatured alcohol, then run it about a dozen laps around your layout, and the track is like a virgin! :laugh: Whooops! Did I say that?
Anyway, no kidding, the CMX is a great track cleaning car. Yep, it costs some serious money, but in the long run it's worth every penny in my opinion.
Bob


----------



## NIMT

Westhaven,
Gotta toast you inventive side:thumbsup:, but I'll have to give it a :thumbsdown: for the overall practicality side.
1. You have to always run it one direction.
2. The surface area of your cleaning pad is very small, that is the advantage to the CMX car is that it has a very large cleaning surface.
3. How long before the pad drys out, In a few minutes max would be my guess! This is another advantage to the CMX car it has a large enough tank to clean a very large layout without stopping or with out dragging around a dry pad.
4. To "Charge" you unit you have to remove it from the rails and that in it's self can be a pain, yet another advantage to the CMX, you can fill or adjust the car while never removing it from the rails. 
5.Anytime you introduce the possibility of a direct short (Via you metal plate) your asking for a real problem. Think about it Pad wears down wet pad with denatured alcohol and poof so much for track cleaning car, and if your not careful so much for layout too! I don't know if this is all that possible because the CMX car has a metal plate and I've yet to have mine short out! 
Like I said I applaud you inventive side, if you use a flat felt pad that is spring loaded you would have a lot better idea. You can get them easy, they are paint pads, HD and Lowes carries them.


----------



## Westhaven

Hi, NIMT.
Thanks for the kind comments on my inventiveness. I appreciate them.
I am just getting started in model railroading (after wanting to for over 50 years) so my creativity might be okay but my tactile abilities leave something to be desired.
That being said, Necessity is my mother and invention has become a long, strong suit.
The track cleaning car I came up with would have some serious drawbacks were it to be run on a large and complex pike. However, my railroad-to-be will be fairly small and one way traffic will be the usual norm. For that reason, my one-way-special will suffice for all my needs except in the yards where I will use a rag and alcohol and do it manually. The small pad will suffice quite well for a 4x8' double loop with a spur.
As for drying out, that is a very small problem since I can halt the car's progress and reapply some booze with an eyedropper if needed. What I have found is that running the car around the temporary tracks I have set up two or three times is sufficient to get the rails squeaky clean. (The first time I ran the car, I was astonished at how much crud it cleaned from the railheads.)
As for longevity of the pad, it is a moot point because I don't run with the same pad more than a couple of times each running day. This precludes the possibility of shorts. Also, I am VERY careful when attaching the pad just for that reason. I have dealt with electricity and electronics off and on most of my life and I have seen what they can do to things that they are not supposed to do it to. (My nephew got mad at an electrical cord that he could not get out of a wall plug. He was about 5 years old. When the cord didn't come out, he grabbed it with his teeth and pulled. He bit hard enough to get through the insulation. He still has a scar on his upper lip to this day and he is 55. THAT was a real short !) Anyway, the felt is cheap and expendable(42 yards of it for what I would have to cough up for a CMX car). 
Actually, I don't have to pick the car up (except to fondle it) as I said above. I just squirt a little alcohol on it with an eyedropper. The only time I really have to pick it up is to change its pad and I do that when nobody is looking.
Your suggestion about using paint pads is sterling silver and I will most assuredly check it out. That sounds like an even better idea than a cat food lid and I won't get any more dirty looks from the cat.
Happy running.
Bill


----------



## NIMT

Westhaven,
It sounds like you worked out all the details for your use and it works and that is all that really matters now isn't it!
Sorry if I came off like a PITA or overly opinionated! Not what I was going for!


----------



## Westhaven

Hi, Sean.
I didn't take any offense at any of your comments. In fact, I just got home from our local Wal*Mart and I bought a trim asnd touch-up pad to use in place of the felt pads I make myself. Unfortunately, the pads are too thick and raise the car off the rails. I will check at our local Home Depot next time I am downtown. Thanks again for the suggestions.
Regards,
Bill


----------



## NIMT

Bill,
This design might give you enough clearence for it to work?


----------



## manchesterjim

*Nothing beats hand-cleaning*

I know its a PITA for larger layouts, but nothing really beats hand-cleaning. I do this about every two weeks on my layout. At the club we used to do it at about the same interval. It as a little easier there thanks to the number of people.

I go over all the track with the bright-boy first, then come back with alcohol and lint-free cloths.

Biggest reason I don't use a car is because of the mechanical problems I've had with them.....derailing, snagging, refilling, etc. hwell:


----------



## Westhaven

Hi, Sean.

I sent a reply to this by hitting the "Reply" button on my email and it wound up in the wrong place so I don't know if you got my answer or not. So here goes.

The problem with the pads I bought at Wally World is that they are thicker than the distance between the bottom of the car and the rails. Consquently, I will check for something thinner at Home Depot next time I am downtown. 

Since I have not even started setting up the permanent layout as yet, I have no tracks to clean. What I tested the car on before was a temporary layout on our dining room table. (I have a very patient wife who is enjoying the train thing almost as much as I am.)

Thanks for the drawing. I will SERIOUSLY consider trying that after I get some tracks down.

Thanks a bunch.

Bill


----------



## raleets

Bill,
I'll chime in with Sean in saying I was in no way trying to belittle your outstanding and creative efforts. Sounds like you've come up with a great solution for your needs and that's all that really matters.
My personal layout, on the other hand, is one where all the track can't be reached with a Bright Boy or a rag and I need a track cleaning car that will do the job without any doubts. I found the CMX, although wicked expensive, is just that gizmo. Trust me, I totally HID that purchase from the female train master of the house!! :laugh: :laugh: She would still be running ME down the track over that one! 
Anywho, in this hobby I've learned quickly to trust what works best for YOU and always remember that it's YOUR layout.
Go have some fun,
Bob


----------



## Westhaven

Hi, Bob.
I simply HAVE TO set you and Sean straight on something. I am 74 years old and I have heard it all and been called everything but a nice guy from time to time over those years. As a result, my skin is pretty tough. I remember a line from Big Jake, one of my favorite John Wayne movies: "You can call me father; you can call me dad; you can call me a dirty S.O.B. but if you ever call me 'Daddy' again, I'll finish this fight." Only in this case, there is no hard feelings at all. I just appreciate all of your recommendations and help because I am new at this and I am gonna need all you guys (and gals) out there to hold my hand from time to time. 

Regards to you, Bob and I hope Sean sees this, too so you both can stop being concerned about ticking me off. I don't tick easy any more.

Best regards.
Bill


----------



## NIMT

Westhaven,
I have learned over the years to not insult my elders!
So...No more problems from me gramps!:laugh::laugh::laugh:
Please bring on the questions!!!! I live for answering them, don't even care if I'm right or not!


----------



## New Berlin RR

well what ever the case everyone finds something that works for them, heck I now know that the cheap plastic light weight cleaner car which may work like crap should in theory work better now that I know some weight tricks I can use  (another thread) to give it a tad more weight, yea so its plastic and the CMX will work loads better but i have to do what I unfortunately can afford.... but hey if it works its worth it


----------



## oldsarge218

Regarding using "regular rubbing alcohol"; I first bought a 79% content rubbing alcohol to clean my NS track, and had to clean it several times to remove all the dirt. I then read an article that a higher alcohol content rubbing alcohol should be used. I found a rubbing alcohol in a 91% strength, and lo and behold, I only had to clean the track once.
I believe the higher the alcohol content, the better job of cleaning will get done.
I didn't even know it came in different strengths! Never too old to learn!


----------



## New Berlin RR

what should I use if i want 100% alcohol? should I use actual drinks if i want that or what? I want max cleaning power mind ya  what brand(s) would you suggest if im looking for off the shelf alternatives?


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

You should look for the 99% Isopropyl Alcohol, it's available in places like Safeway stores.


----------



## New Berlin RR

ok so would rubbing alcohol (medicinal) work also?


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I have no idea, I found it at Safeway.  Many places only have the 70% or 91%, I like to use the 99%, so I buy several bottles of it when I go for it.

I use lighter fluid for other cleaning tasks. I find that if Alcohol doesn't get it, lighter fluid frequently will.


----------



## NIMT

New Berlin RR said:


> what should I use if i want 100% alcohol?


White lightning, Moonshine, Hoch, Everclear!


----------



## manchesterjim

New Berlin RR said:


> what should I use if i want 100% alcohol? should I use actual drinks if i want that or what? I want max cleaning power mind ya  what brand(s) would you suggest if im looking for off the shelf alternatives?


Everclear! As close to 100% alcohol as you can get!


----------



## manchesterjim

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I have no idea, I found it at Safeway.  Many places only have the 70% or 91%, I like to use the 99%, so I buy several bottles of it when I go for it.
> 
> I use lighter fluid for other cleaning tasks. I find that if Alcohol doesn't get it, lighter fluid frequently will.


As I've come to understand it....the difference is the water content.hwell:

The higher the alcohol percentage the lower the water content. Water "filler" tends to leave a residue or film on the things that you clean with it, so you'll find 97 and 99% is used quite a bit to clean electronic contacts, video and audio tape machine (remember those??) heads, etc....

Jim


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Actually, Everclear is only 95% alcohol, 190 proof. 

Correct, I like as little water as I can get. Alcohol actually bonds with the water, so I figure the little bit of water in 99% will go with the alcohol.


----------



## New Berlin RR

NIMT said:


> White lightning, Moonshine, Hoch, Everclear!


good, now where did the parts for my distilery get off too....time to moonshine it...hehe, think I should get a better car for the moonshine....may even paint a name on it and call it the "moonshiner" (my cars name hehe)


----------

