# Link Coupler Opinion



## chrisallen21 (Sep 1, 2016)

I need to repair a link coupler on a 938 caboose and found some link couplers without weights on them in my parts bin (not sure when I acquired them). I was just wondering what the gurus of the group suggest on this:

a) Buy a weight (black or brass, depending upon what the link coupler is attached to)
It looks like their are brass and black ones but there may be more
How do people attach the weight to the plastic link coupler (an epoxy or some type of glue?)

b) Buy a link coupler with the weight already attached
Likely the simplest but you buy two sets of link couplers depending upon the colour (can you tell I am Canadian including a 'u' in the word lol) of the weight attached


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

That looks like a 1947 thick shank link coupler. For weights black or brass make no performance difference. Brass was used in 1948, black weights were used from 1949 through the end of production.
I would just buy repro black weight couplers and use them. The only reason to use the couplers w/o weights is to keep a car all original if it was made in 1946 or 1947. I rarely run cars with unweighted couplers, not reliable enough. If you want to add weights to 1947 couplers drill a hole to accept the pin on the weights. The hole should be a slight interference fit. I do not recommend adding weights to 1946 thin shank couplers.


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## AF-Doc' (Dec 21, 2013)

Greetings,
The weight can easily be removed by grasping it with plyers rotate and pull gently. Overlay the broken link on your unweighted one and mark the hole location. A #3, 0.213 bit matches the old hole very close. A # 4, 0.209 bit might make for a tighter fit when you reinstall the weight. Best of luck and drill slowly or you will melt the plastic. Good fortune on your efforts.
Doc'


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

A 938 caboose would be a knuckle coupler, just saying..


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Flyernut is correct of course. Based on the phrasing of the original question it sounded like the caboose already had a link coupler. Therefore I made the possibly incorrect assumption it was actually a 638 caboose.


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## AF-Doc' (Dec 21, 2013)

Same here....... Doug, slow down and read a little more, Thanks Flyernut.


Doug


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## chrisallen21 (Sep 1, 2016)

flyernut said:


> A 938 caboose would be a knuckle coupler, just saying..


Thanks for the correction Flyernut. This is the way I received the caboose and thought it would be a good learning exercise to change it out as-is. I am sure it will take me a few goes at it to get it right and it is a cheap experiment to try with.


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## chrisallen21 (Sep 1, 2016)

AmFlyer said:


> That looks like a 1947 thick shank link coupler. For weights black or brass make no performance difference. Brass was used in 1948, black weights were used from 1949 through the end of production.
> I would just buy repro black weight couplers and use them. The only reason to use the couplers w/o weights is to keep a car all original if it was made in 1946 or 1947. I rarely run cars with unweighted couplers, not reliable enough. If you want to add weights to 1947 couplers drill a hole to accept the pin on the weights. The hole should be a slight interference fit. I do not recommend adding weights to 1946 thin shank couplers.


Thanks for the expert guidance. I agree that it is much easier to just replace with a weighted link coupler rather than fooling around attaching a weight to the shank link coupler I have. Anyone have the part number I need request from Jeff Kane handy?


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

I do not have it but just tell him you want "x" number of black weight link couplers with pins. He knows what to send.


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