# Rivet removal tool/process



## chrisallen21 (Sep 1, 2016)

I am looking for suggestions/advice on a rivet removal tool. I have an old 302 Reading steamer (stamped with Jun 1952 on the inside of the plastic outer casing) and the front wheels on the tender (I am new to all this terminology so hopefully I have this correct. I am referring to the coal car behind the engine) have rusted through the old rivet and become detached. I am hoping that the truck bed can still be salvaged by reattaching with a new rivet with perhaps a thin flat washer (I know, not exactly original). What do you guys recommend? 

As well, I have found a couple sites (portlines is excellent) that provide part diagrams but if you could share your links for part listings, it would be much appreciated. There are so many different rivets for different models that I want to be sure I am ordering the correct one. I have included a couple pics of how it is today for reference.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

A tip when posting pictures, click on the paper clip a second time after uploading the picture. That will cause the picture to appear in the post rather than just the link. 
I bought the rivet tools and link coupler replacement tools from Portlines years ago, but rarely need to re rivet anything. The Gilbert factory service manual is online at myflyertrains.org. It lists the part numbers for each of the rivets. I just bought a selection years ago so I do not need to reorder every time I fix a different item.
Flyernut may know the specific number of this rivet, he does a lot more repair work than I do.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

By the way, welcome to the MTF! We will try to help however we can. There are a lot of Gilbert operators and collectors here.


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## chrisallen21 (Sep 1, 2016)

Ahhh, that is how they are embedded in the message. Thanks for the tip!


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Hello, and welcome.. This is a very easy fix to accomplish. I've done MANY,lol...PortLines has the rivet tool, but many times they are out of stock because this is a very popular tool. Are you quite sure the hole is enlarged due to rusting?? Or did the insulating bushing just deteriorate due to age?? If the hole is too large, you probably can't add a washer as then the washer will cause a short to the chassis. There is a small washer on the truck side, and PortLines does sell those. I just did a 302 chassis 2 days ago, and this is the sequence of the attaching parts...Rivet, bushing through the chassis....large insulating bushing under the chassis...truck....copper pick-up strip.....small washer holding everything in place.. You need 3 hands if you're not experienced,lol... If you're not in a hurry, send me the chassis and truck,etc, and I'll do the work for you, just pay for shipping, both ways.. I'll even pay for the parts.. Can't beat that right???.... Or... just get a complete tender chassis on ebay; they're plentiful...


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## chrisallen21 (Sep 1, 2016)

Wow! What a generous offer! I just might have to take you up on it! :smilie_daumenpos: You might be right on the bushing just coming through/missing. I am currently making a list of the repairs that I think will be necessary on the entire unit and will see if it is a little beyond my capabilities or not. I am off to Nova Scotia for a small vacation shortly (hopefully no hurricanes will brush us) but will be back at it in late September. The wiring between the engine and the tender is in terrible shape and both the reverse unit finger boards need replaced. I think the drum is in decent shape though. I have included a few pics of current state. I am not sure about the smoke yet. Once I get a full listing, I might be in touch in terms of labour rate/parts cost.

























I also included a pic of the tender and was wondering why it looks like it has a mixed composite of metals. Is it just the way they formed them back in the day? As you can tell, it has a bit of a bend to it that i think might be a bit beyond repair!


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

No problem helping our Northern brethren, eh?... Those fingers look BAD!! I think someone was in there way before you,lol... All of that can, of course, be fixed. It's an easy fix if you know basic soldering, and have the correct wiring diagram for your engine. Most Flyer steamers share the same wiring, and you can find download it from the inter-web. Now let's turn to the chassis.. I would just replace it with a used from from ebay or other sources. Sometimes you can bend them back to get them more or less straight, but you'll never get it right. If it's off a little bit, the tender won't track correctly, and could not run at all. If I were you, I'd replace it.... The heavy object you show in your picture is the tender weight. They were used in the sheet metal tenders because the tenders were light, and needed the extra weight. The plastic tenders also used the weight.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

One more thing.. If you do get a used tender chassis, make sure it's for a SHEET METAL tender shell, not a plastic or bakelite one. 302's has 2 different tender shells and chassis. There is a item on ebay that has what you need but it comes with a ton of other parts. Buy it now $14 bucks, worth it in my eyes.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

item # 262496598197:smilie_daumenpos:


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Chrisallen21's 302 is a 1952 based on the stamp in the engine shell and it has the three spring truck sideframes. Flyernut, the picture you posted also has the three spring truck sideframes so it is likely a 1952. Both have the tender chassis factory punched for the tender mounted reverse unit. A 1946 or 1947 tender or any one from a later production 300 or 300AC, rather than a 302, may not be stamped for the reverse unit mounting. Those engines had boiler mounted reverse units. Fixable, but i just wanted to highlight this if purchasing an item from the BAY.


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

With Flyernut working for you, your engine will run well. Take his advice for gold!!!


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## daveh219 (Sep 16, 2012)

Chris...sorry I'm late for this party but I can tell you with a huge amount of confidence that eventually you will be able to repair/fix all the problems you have shown. I have my Dad's AF engines - new in 1954 - and work on them daily. You have at your fingertips a wealth of information from the members of this forum. Don't hesitate to ask questions and share your questions and problems. Take your time, take pictures for your self and don't be afraid to jump in. Check ebay for items you need...and good luck


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