# Converting older Rivarossi's to DCC



## Mister Bill (Jan 30, 2014)

I don’t know where to post this. I will start the HO group.

I have some older Rivarossi steamers, 4-6-4 passenger and 2-8-8-2 y6b mallet.

I found a dealer in Denver who converts those old dinosaurs to DCC with TCS sound.

The passengers turned out great, but the 2-8-8-2 will not run worth a hoot.

While still in DC, I had converted them all to Mashima 1824 can motors, and they ran fine.

In the 2-8-8-2, the motor is mounted a little cockeyed, and it ran fine with a lawn mower fuel filter as a drive shaft.

The 4-6-4’s did fine after the conversion, but the motor strains on the 2-8-8-2 and just cannot turn the drive shaft to turn the 16 wheels. 

Is there a CV that I can use to get more torque, or can you suggest a more powerful motor? 

Bill


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

RC model suppliers have all sorts of CV and universal joint applications.
Somewhere I saw an article about a self powered Bachman crane, using a Shay type geared drive made largely with RC/CV parts.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

There is a CV you can adjust to get a higher starting voltage applied to the motor in speed step kne, and another to govern the max voltage at max speed.

Unless the hobby shop changed out the drive train, if it worked before, it should work now. However, they probably had to pull the motor to isolate it, so you should check and make sure nothing is misaligned (any more than it was before).

I guess another possibility would be that the sound card is sucking up so much current that there isn't enough going to the motor, but unless your DCC system is way underpowered that's unlikely.


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## Mister Bill (Jan 30, 2014)

An update. I think the problem is solved.

The 2-8-8-2 has a complicated mechanism for an old man like me. 

I must have taken it apart and re-assembled a dozen times trying to track the problem.
I usually tighten the screws snugly without overtightening. On the 13th try, I found that one of the screws on the front truck should be tightened only about half way, just enough to keep it from falling out. By tightening snugly, I was locking up the mechanism on the front set of wheels. Who knows all of these things.

She is running much better now.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Mister Bill said:


> I usually tighten the screws snugly without overtightening. On the 13th try, I found that one of the screws on the front truck should be tightened only about half way, just enough to keep it from falling out. By tightening snugly, I was locking up the mechanism on the front set of wheels. Who knows all of these things.


You do, now! 

Experience is a great teacher.... although a tough one, because she gives the test first and the lesson afterwards.


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## Cab1 (Jul 26, 2009)

I converted a Rivarossi Dreyfuss Hudson to DCC a few years back. It was new in the box and I couldn't afford the MTH version at the time, so I gave it a shot. It came out rather well, actually. Even thought it runs good and it has lights and sound it doesn't hold a candle to the MTH version. The motor sticks out into the back head and the detailing just isn't there. In many cases the end product of a conversion is not gonna be as nice as a loco that was designed for DCC. If you're okay with that go for it.

Keep in mind, if you decide to do a conversion on a DC loco, it's most likely gonna fight you every step of the way. The biggest problem is isolating the motor. It's usually grounded to the frame in DC loco's. You may think you have it isolated, but you don't. The motor is usually grounded in several different ways. In my Dreyfuss the screw holding the motor to the frame pass through a brass rivet holding the trailing wheels to the frame. It had to be sleeved. A DC loco motor can also be grounded through the headlight.

The next step is to get power to the decoder. DC locos usually get power through one or two sets of drive wheels. That wasn't enough. I had to isolate the trucks up front and get power from the lead wheels. I also taped power from wipes in the tender as well.

One last thing to look out for: binding of the drive rods. I made the mistake of not keeping track of the drive rod geometry when I took the damn thing apart. It's not intuitive. It took days for me to figure it out.


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## jlc41 (Feb 16, 2016)

Well said CTValleyRR, life is a continuing lesson.


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

Well, they do say experience is what you get, just seconds after you actually need it.....


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## seacoast (Sep 12, 2010)

Is thhere a company that will upgrade thee older steam lo dcc. Any recommendations andprice range?


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

This is not a recommendation. Just something I noticed in the web along your the lines of your question.






Tony's DCC Installation Services


Model Train News, Tips, Videos & Reviews | Tony's Trains




tonystrains.com





Seems like to me many shops have the number of someone also...

Maybe there are people on this forum too.


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