# Benchwork - 1x3 or 1x4?



## Cowboy (Dec 31, 2010)

I am about to start building my benchwork and my research has shown that we often over-build our bench. My 'empire' is HO.

I am going to use Fir as the frame with a 1/2" Birch plywood - all covered with 2" of foam. My layout goes around the room and will be 2' wide and have runs of 10 and 12 feet. I plan on using cross pieces every 16" inches.

So my question to those who may know: Could I use 1x3 Fir? It is almost half the cost of 1x4.

.. James


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## Xnats (Dec 5, 2010)

I would. You could even rip 2x3's in half if you wanted, no one should be looking underneath anyway. You'll mostly have to add an extra front leg or two or angle supports. I'd personally use the angle supports every 16" along with the cross pieces.


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Here's a pic of my layout benchwork. Mostly 1x4, but some 1x3 inside as stringers. 2x2 legs with 1x2 bracing. It's freestanding 11'x13' I used 16" on center for the stringers. My 260 lb father is able to sit on this table without it moving. At 2' deep - I would think 1x3 would be sufficient assuming you properly brace the outside edge and attach the wall side edge to the wall. I think my widest unsupported section is maybe 4 feet.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Truss / gusset design and configuration is key, per Scott's example above.

Also, all woods and boards are not equal. There's a huge structural difference between a clear-grain, kiln-dried 1x3 vs. one that's filled with knots, potential splits, etc.

Don't by the super cheap stuff ... get a good quality, well dried stock of wood.

Or ... rip (or have a lumberyard rip) 1x3 stock out of cabinet-grade 3/4" plywood. This can be cost effective (16 8' planks per sheet), and will likely be more structurally stable.

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'm not sure you need cabinet grade plywood for the framing.  If you're going that way, I'd consider construction grade.

I like the truss design there Scott, less legs and still good support.


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

FWIW...I was just using Home Depot lumber. I was picky on the pieces of wood I bought (no knots, no splits, very straight and true.)


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I've finished whole basements with HD lumber, walls are straight and true.


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## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

Don't spend too much on wood if you don't want. This is $40 worth of construction grade lumber from home depot. 2x2 legs and 1x2 everywhere else. This table is plenty stable but you might think about foam. This thing sounds like a acoustic guitar when it is wound up! I don't mind though!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I was originally thinking of plain plywood, but I think I'll put down a plywood base, maybe just 1/4" or 1/2" and then foam.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

I'm going to have to go with TJ on this one.
I use 3/4 7 ply cabinet stock plywood.
Before you jump all over me it's not the real super pretty Plywood, and it's the same price as construction grade. 
The reasoning for 3/4 for the frame over 1/2 is it's just allot easier to get screws or nails to stick in it with out just splitting out the sides.
I do anywhere from 4" wide frames to 6" wide frames, 1/2" plywood top
Simple 2x4 frames and you really don't need any other support.
As I type this there is a wood war going on under this post!
2 foot by 2 foot grids















This one is 16 foot long and no center legs. in the picture it was on 4 saw horses.
later that day it hung from the ceiling on 4 cables in the corners it went up and down via winch every day for a year with no sway in the middle!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, I was talking about the top when I said 1/2" plywood.  If I were doing the framework with plywood, obviously 3/4 would be the pick. However, I'd be looking for what was cheap, since it should all be pretty dimensionally stable. If that was cabinet grade, so be it.


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