# MTH Battery Replacement



## ftauss (Sep 18, 2012)

I have an MTH Premiere 4-4-2. I got it apart last night to replace the speaker based on responses to my initial query regarding poor sound. The battery is 8.4V 120 mAh, What are my options to replace it? Batteries Plus has 200 mAh batteries, how critical is that figure, As I understand it, it is the ability to deliver power and therefore should be Ok.

Frank


----------



## PatKn (Jul 14, 2015)

I recommend replacing the battery with a BCR. I have BCRs in all my MTH Proto 1 & 2 engines (over 30 of them) and have not been disappointed. With the BCR you will no longer have to worry about the effects of a bad battery. It's worth the piece of mind.


----------



## seayakbill (Jan 16, 2016)

BCR's are the only way to go when you are ready for a battery replacement. I have some early PS-1 locos that I replaced the MTH Battery over 10 years ago and they run perfectly. Sometimes they may only hit the rails once a year. 

Bill


----------



## Todd Lopes (Nov 11, 2015)

If you have a few extra bucks, get the BCR. I agree with with Pat and Seayakbill. If you don't, just get the MTH battery for your needs. I still have a few batteries in my PS2 gear and some of them are going on 5-6 years old.


----------



## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

I agree with Pat and Bill. I’m replacing my batteries with BCRs when the battery life is done. I had a 6 year old 2.4V NiCad MTH battery leak. Leaking NiCads are probably rare, but I have proof that it can happen. BCRs cost more than batteries, but you never have to worry about them again. Here is a place that you can get them.

http://www.jandwelectronics.com/

But, if you want to stick with batteries, you should be OK with the 200 mAh battery. Milliamp hours (mAh) is a measure of the energy a battery can store. I have an 8.4V 180 mAh in a P5a with no problems.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I replace batteries with the low-discharge rate NiMh 280 mah batteries, never got one back. Although the BCR is a worthwhile idea, when I service something, I want it to be operationally just like the user manual. With the BCR in an older PS/1 engine, you do have to wait for it to charge or you could end up with the vary problem you're trying to avoid.


----------



## ftauss (Sep 18, 2012)

Thanks guys.


----------



## phillyreading (Aug 25, 2015)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I replace batteries with the low-discharge rate NiMh 280 mah batteries, never got one back. Although the BCR is a worthwhile idea, when I service something, I want it to be operationally just like the user manual. With the BCR in an older PS/1 engine, you do have to wait for it to charge or you could end up with the vary problem you're trying to avoid.


That's interesting you should mention about the BCR giving some problems. Anyway you may have to replace either one after 5 or 6 years, so I just buy the regular rechargeable batteries from MTH for my PS-1 or Weaver engines.

The only thing I can say about MTH batteries; when in doubt charge it.

Lee Fritz


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

It's not that the BCR will give you problems, it's just that if you don't allow it to charge properly before trying to start up, you can create the vary problem that a dead battery causes. The operation using the BCR for PS/1 is not exactly like using the battery, so in a repair, I don't want to do that unless the customer specifically requests that option.


----------



## phillyreading (Aug 25, 2015)

So you are saying that you must let the BCR charge up on the track for a minute or two?

Lee Fritz


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Correct, that's the Achilles heel of the BCR when used in a PS/1 environment. Certain older PS/1 engines are susceptible to the ID select bug if they get shutdown with a weak battery, the data doesn't get written back to the memory correctly before the circuit loses power. This is the same issue that comes up with dead batteries, the dreaded "three clanks of death" bug.

As long as you give it time to properly charge, it's not an issue, it's just a problem if you don't.


----------



## seayakbill (Jan 16, 2016)

On my PS-1 locos with BCR's installed, I let them idle for about a minute at 12 volts before I put them in gear. So far never an issue for over 10 years.

Bill


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Exactly Bill, try turning one of the older ones on for about 5-10 seconds and then turning it off. Call me when you get the three clanks, I have the reset chip.


----------



## seayakbill (Jan 16, 2016)

I have the reset chip also, used it a couple times a decade or so ago on PS-1 locos with dead MTH batteries. Have not had to use it on a BCR equipped loco YET, knock on wood.

Bill


----------



## Alibat (Nov 19, 2015)

Don't want to put a dampener on it but I've had 3 PS1 locos die on me with BCR's in them.
My technician here says the recharging board & the BCR's don't play nice together so I need new boards now which is a b---er living on the wrong side of the pond.
James


----------



## ftauss (Sep 18, 2012)

I took my 30-1168-0 apart to see what was in it. Tender, err nothing but a speaker. OK, take loco shell off. WTF? Couldn't find the manual so looked it up on line. 

Locosound no battery. Hmmm.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Yep, no batteries in those.


----------



## Todd Lopes (Nov 11, 2015)

I agree with John for the original Protosound (PS1) engines and BCRs. You must give it time to charge up or you might get the 3 clanks. 

Off the subject a bit, you can score a nice PS1 engine at a reasonable price these days and do a cost effective TMCC upgrade if you are looking for command control. I would imagine a Protosound 2 or 3 install might be more pricey, but don't know for certain.


----------



## Pine Creek RailRoad (Jan 20, 2016)

*BCR*







Gentlemen,
I just came aboard here on this forum and got to say it looks pretty good so far, I have replaced all my Engine Batteries with BCR's as the batteries need replacing, some even when brand spanking new, like my 263E long ago. Guns is correct, an operator must know to let the BCR charge for about 15 to 20 sec, especially before running a P1 engine. IMO the BCR is the way to go, all new P3 engines have a Super Cap built right into them, which is nothing more than a BCR. The next battery replacement with BCR, will be in my Pittsburgh, Pa 34 Shannon Street Car.

Nice to see here Todd!

Note : Used size instructions to resize my photo's but they failed to work on my pictures. Can I set them to a certain size and leave it some how?
PCRR/Dave


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Dave, the forum resizes them for you.


----------

