# A 224 re-build



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

I just finished repainting a 224 with KRYLON lacquer in a rattle can. I thought I was getting flat black, but I grabbed satin instead. The 1684 was painted with a spray gun with flat black the coated with Dulcoat, that was my plan for 224, but oops.

I like the satin, what do you think?

All comments taken in the spirit offered.


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

Darn, its re-build not be-build. 
go ahead judge me on typing skills, or lack thereof.


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Bud,

I've used Krylon rattle can for most of my restoration work. I assume you're using their standard Indoor/Outdoor enamel, as opposed to a true lacquer ???

I've used gloss, satin, and flat ... depending upon the loco / project. Prewar tinplate mostly gloss; postwar 221 streamliner flat. I did one prewar 1688 in satin, and another in flat ... of those, I think I prefer the flat.

That said, this is all personal preference. The Krlyon satin has a lot of sheen to it ... much closer to gloss than a true flat. Very little difference between the Krlyon satin and the Krylon gloss, actually.

For a postwar shell (like the 224), I think the satin is a good choice. The shell certainly looks nice in your photo, and a nice match to the historical ...

http://www.tandem-associates.com/lionel/lionel_trains_224_loco.htm

Cheers,

TJ


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I think they both look nice.:thumbsup:

I wish you had a picture of the color before you dull coated the one.

I would have liked to see the difference.

Typing skills, I will go back and proof read.


Edit,
Typing skills look good, spelling one word Dulcoat should be Dullcoat?

But spell check says either is wrong.

So your OK.:thumbsup:

Are you going to dullcoat the other?


----------



## steam chaser (Feb 21, 2011)

They both look nice to me wabashbud.Thanks for sharing,Don


----------



## plandis (Oct 5, 2011)

I would never have thought that rattel can satin would look that good! what prep did you do b-4 painting??


----------



## SteveC (Feb 13, 2012)

I have found that I really like the Krylon Semi-flat Black. It is not too flat, and not as shiny as the satin. I have done some spot painting on a 1668 shell that you can't even tell where the blend line is. I purchased mine from Advanced Auto Parts. I tried several types of satin, flat and in between, and top coated with dulcoat, but this is the best I have found to date. 

Steve


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

Plandis:

Stripped with Easy Off Oven Cleaner, neutralized with vinegar and water, washed again with denatured alcohol dried for 24 hours then paint. Gave the shell about four light coats of lacquer and that's it. I am afraid to use a primer since it could cover up too much detail.

I think I'll keep the satin finish, seems to match the new MTH units finishes.

Bud


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I am not a pure flat black fan. The 224 looks great!:thumbsup:

I always use a primer for the adhesion factor.

Don't forget the steamchest.


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

T-Man:

I did forget the steam chest but that's only because I haven't bought it yet. The original steam chest was damaged beyond repair and I haven't ordered any parts yet. I've got a long list of parts needed and probably order them from Jeff at Train Man. The engine only cost me $24.00 so you can imagine the condition it was in initially.

Bud


----------



## Handyandy (Feb 14, 2012)

I like the satin look myself. Flat is fine if the item is going to be weathered, but otherwise a little sheen is nice.


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I have two 224's so if you need to see something, make a request.

There are a few variations on the shell. Do you have a square back?
This is the site,


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

T-Man:

Yes, the cab floor is square in the back and it had chrome hand railings. Looks like its a 1945 except for the railings, what do you think?

According to the web site a 1945 had black railings and the 1946 had a round cab floor and chrome railings, I'm confused. Could be that sometime in the past the railings got changed but the railings on the engine when I got it were real beat up and I assumed they were original. The engine appeared to have been touched up and lots of parts were missing, anything is possible.

Post some pictures of your 224's, I'd love to see them.

Bud


----------



## SteveC (Feb 13, 2012)

I also like a little sheen to the paint, and the Krylon Semi-Flat that I have found is about as close to original Lionel paint that I have found. I also use a thin coat of self etching primer to give it a good bond but not so much to cover details. I hope I didn't make it seem like I would then overcoat this with dulcote as that is not the case. I will try win a fight with my camera and post some photos of them. I am on a 1688/1668/1666/224/1684 craze lately with several of them into various stages of rebuild. As for a just to see if I can fix it project, I have had really good luck with using a product I found at Hobby Lobby that is a "form a mold" material. It works like a two part epoxy putty but it stays flexible. I have recast missing marker lamps, steps, and I have even recast a missing pilot with it using JB-Weld as the casting material. I figured what do I have to loose if the part is junk anyway, and I have had some good results. 

Steve


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

Steve:

I have a 1666 that I cleaned up with new brushes and a good soaking in paint thinner but its going to retain its original paint. Santa brought me that engine in 1946 and it got lots of use. The 224 was on a table at an antique mall and I couldn't pass it up. Now to find a 2466W cheap.

Bud


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

big ed said:


> I think they both look nice.:thumbsup:
> 
> I wish you had a picture of the color before you dull coated the one.
> 
> ...



OK I will take that as a no?


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

Well paint and new parts are about complete. The e-unit it out for overhaul and I'm waiting for the bell bracket. The tender is a 2466T with original finish and I'm looking for a 2466W. I think I will be satisfied with the satin finish on the engine.


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Hey Bud,

The 224 looks wonderful! Like fresh off the assembly line! Nice work.

TJ


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Looks great, let's see it run! :thumbsup:


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

Gunrunnerjohn:

It'll run soon, first get the e-unit and install it, then paint the bell bracket and get it installed. Then it runs, fingers are crossed. There's always Murphy.

Bud


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Looks Good! :thumbsup:


----------



## SteveC (Feb 13, 2012)

:thumbsup:It looks Great!!! Nice restoration! 

Steve


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Bud,

Did you retag the "224"? If so, how? Dry-transfer numbers? Other?

TJ


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

TJ: The 224 uses a metal strip with tabs holding it in, all I had to do was sraighten the tabs and remove it. Easy!

Bud


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Like this TJ.


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Oh ... Thanks, guys! I had no idea that was an insert piece on the 224. Nice!

Learn something every day! :thumbsup:

TJ


----------



## SteveC (Feb 13, 2012)

I like those insert style number boards. The early 1666's had them also. The shell for the 229 is the same, but on mine, it is painted...hwell: I still have yet to add a 1664 to my collection, so I can't say about those, but they all use the same boiler casting. It makes for a little easier to restore them without having to reapply the numbers. I think that they are some of my favorites as I really like the details and the swinging bell. I wish they had smoke, but oh well, the early 2026 are my favorite smoking engines along with the 2020 with bulb. (I like the way the smoke bulb lights up the smoke plume) Where do you folks get your numbers when you need to reapply to do a restoration?
Steve


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

I get mine from Jeff at The Train Tender. Try ttender.com.

Bud


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Woodland scenics sells a rub on transfer sheet that has three sizes ( under 1/4 inch)in white lettering.


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

*Complete and pulling*

The project is complete, Jeff Kane rebuilt the E-unit and supplied a bunch of parts and now its running like a champ. This will become one of my favorites.

Bud


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Bud,

The 224 looks fabulous! Excellent job with the restoration!

TJ


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Nice looking loco, great job!


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

:thumbsup:Beauty!:thumbsup:

What's next?


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

T-Man:

Next has to be a tender. TCA Tran show Saturday hope to find one there.


----------



## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

I've seen a guy on e-bay selling number stamps and in in various numbers. Supposedly in the "correct" Lionel font used and you can get either white or silver ink with it. A bit more expensive, but another option.

Carl


----------



## lionellines (May 18, 2011)

SteveC said:


> I have found that I really like the Krylon Semi-flat Black. It is not too flat, and not as shiny as the satin. I have done some spot painting on a 1668 shell that you can't even tell where the blend line is. I purchased mine from Advanced Auto Parts. I tried several types of satin, flat and in between, and top coated with dulcoat, but this is the best I have found to date.
> 
> Steve


Did you buy it recently? If so, what is the product number on the can? I recently purchased some Krylon semi-flat black *enamel* from Granger, and was disappointed in how glossy it was.


----------



## SteveC (Feb 13, 2012)

lionellines said:


> Did you buy it recently? If so, what is the product number on the can? I recently purchased some Krylon semi-flat black *enamel* from Granger, and was disappointed in how glossy it was.


The paint I purchased was from Advanced Auto Parts, it is Krylon Rust Tough Enamel, RTA-9203 Semi-Flat Black. I purchased this only a month or so ago, so I think that it is a current paint. This is a great match for original as it is not pure flat, but not glossy. I am sorry that yours didn't work out for you. I know how frustrating it is to find the right sheen. I have half a dozen cans down the basement of other shades that I didn't like. 

Steve


----------



## lionellines (May 18, 2011)

Thanks, Steve. I recently purchased Krylon S03725 semi-flat black acrylic enamel in hopes that it would match post war Lionel steamer black (like the old Krylon 1613 did). I was disappointed in that it was more glossy than I wanted. It has more of a semi-gloss sheen. I'll look for the stuff you recommended tonight. :thumbsup:


----------



## lionellines (May 18, 2011)

Steve, 

Thanks for the paint recommendation. I tried some tonight, and it is an incredible match for post war Lionel black. I'll go back and buy several more cans to stock up.


----------



## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

lionellines said:


> Did you buy it recently? If so, what is the product number on the can? I recently purchased some Krylon semi-flat black *enamel* from Granger, and was disappointed in how glossy it was.


Lionelines: The product number is 51613 Satin Black Lacquer, the sheen matches that on my Railking Models.


----------



## SteveC (Feb 13, 2012)

lionellines said:


> Steve,
> 
> Thanks for the paint recommendation. I tried some tonight, and it is an incredible match for post war Lionel black. I'll go back and buy several more cans to stock up.


That's great! I am glad that it worked out for you.  I think it is the best match that I have found also. 

Steve


----------

