# How long can you run without a derailment?



## Mister Bill (Jan 30, 2014)

Just a couple of laps for me most of the time.

Although I try to keep everything in tune, it seems like there is always something I did not allow for or plan for.

Bill


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

on mine virtually never with existing rolling stock, sometimes with new added stuff until it gets sorted out ... occasional uncoupling, but only with one loco, a bachmann 2-6-0 that sort of 'surges at lower speeds .. and if the couplers happen to be directly over the locations where I have magnets between the rails, it sometimes unhooks


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## fcwilt (Sep 27, 2013)

Only when I do something stupid like try to run through a turnout set the wrong way.

And as mentioned sometimes a new piece of rolling stock may have problems because it needs to be adjusted to meet specs.


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## JNXT 7707 (May 5, 2013)

I rarely ever have a derailment, because I am so OCD about fixing the cause it when it DOES happen. Many a sleepless late night spent trying to track down mystery derail issues.


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## D&J Railroad (Oct 4, 2013)

With a 6.5 scale mile run of track for one lap, I let trains run while I'm working on scenery or at the desk working on a loco or rolling stock. They just don't derail and I've posted videos of long runs on the layout.


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## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

I'm good for quite awhile on both layouts...forgetting to throw a switch is usually the culprit when it does happen.


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## cole226 (Feb 8, 2013)

hardly ever on the 3-rail. when i do it will be a 1/2 thrown switch.

little more on the On30. and it is almost always on a re-railer, GO FIGURE:dunno: course these re-railers are going to go away.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

The time til derail depends on which cars I have on the train. If I choose
carefully, I can have a long 20 car freight continue on my 'follow the walls'
room size layout through 6 Peco turnouts until I stop it.

I usually bad order any car that derails and find out why. Often
it's just plastic wheels, but, sadly, it is too often Kadee
sprung trucks. I have bad luck with those even tho they normally
are excellent running.

Don


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

On my previous layout, after I had ripped out and redone things about 4 times to eliminate shoddy trackwork, things would run virtually forever without a derailment IF I never touched a turnout. Which, of course I would do many times a session, and eventually would have one that was misaligned or not completely thrown. In particular, I have one boxcar that is an expert at picking turnouts that are not completely thrown.

Another problem I have is that unlike on a prototype, running a train through a turnout which is set against it always causes a short, necessitating a reset of the system. Installing Tam Valley Depot turnout selectors with LEDs helped a lot, but didn't eliminate the problem completely.

When I get my new layout put together, you can bet I will be very careful to have bullet proof trackwork. Now if someone can figure out a way to idiot proof me and my operators, I will never have an issue!


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Operator error at turnouts*

CTvalley; 

If you want to, you could include photo-transistor sensors to throw the turnout to the 
correct route as a train approaches. That might take some of the fun out of "operating" the railroad though. Your railroad, your choice, of course. A bistable spring, like those used in Peco, Micro engineering turnouts should cure the "points left partway open" problem. Old article in Model Railroader called "Finger flipping turnout control" shows how to add such a spring to any turnout. I have their CD Rom discs. If you don't,and are interested in finding the article, let me know.

Regards;

Traction Fan


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

DonR said:


> Often it's just plastic wheels


Just a question.....why wouldn't you change over to metal wheels then?


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

If I have them on hand, I do change to metal wheels when I discover a derailing
car. My local hobby shop doesn't always
have them in stock and I must order them on line.

Don


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

DonR said:


> If I have them on hand, I do change to metal wheels when I discover a derailing
> car. My local hobby shop doesn't always
> have them in stock and I must order them on line.
> 
> Don


I, too keep metal wheels in stock and use them to replace any out-of-spec wheels. However, I have found that if the plastic wheels are on metal axes, I can usually twist the wheels until one breaks free (sort of). Then I can twist them back and forth until they are in spec. The wheels stay very tight on the axes and don't shift back out of spec. Saves significant $$ on new wheel sets.


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## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

Running mostly post-war Lionel, only a coupler opening causes a derailment after the loco catches up and crashes into the tail end car or usually broadsides whatever is sitting on the crossover, otherwise derailments just don't happen.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Thanks for the thoughts, Traction Fan. As you suggest, I'm not very keen on the idea of optical detectors. I want my operators (or dispatcher) to learn to line the turnouts, just like a real train crew.

For operating the turnouts, I use servo motors from Tam Valley Depot, linked to the throwbar with piano wire. This has plenty of oomph to throw the turnout and hold it securely. The issue is that I can't completely eliminate physical obstructions. Cat hair is the most common, but stray grains of ballast and ground foam ocassionally make an appearance.


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

what is derailment? Sorry, I once had to leave for an emergency and did not make it back for about 30 hours. trains still running.


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## L0stS0ul (Feb 6, 2015)

Dano said:


> Running mostly post-war Lionel, only a coupler opening causes a derailment after the loco catches up and crashes into the tail end car or usually broadsides whatever is sitting on the crossover, otherwise derailments just don't happen.


Same kinda issue here. I have one box car with a non-operating coupler that seems to let go randomly with any other car I have it connected to. I hate when it happens inside the tunnel as that tends to derail both of my tracks. I need to upgrade that box car to an operating coupler.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Southern said:


> what is derailment? Sorry, I once had to leave for an emergency and did not make it back for about 30 hours. trains still running.


Mine would probably do that, too, if the turnouts were lined properly before I left. OTOH, it takes me less than 5 seconds to hit the "Stop" button on the DCC unit and flip the on/off switch on the power strip. Unless the house was on fire (in which case the trains wouldn't be running when I got back), the time necessary to shut down my layout would make no difference.


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

L0stS0ul said:


> I need to upgrade that box car to an operating coupler


That certainly would seem to be the best and fastest solution.....


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Interesting question. Somehow I missed this thread. I once ran a train for 100 hours straight on my O-gauge layout. It was more to proof the durability of an MTH engine running on a Lionel power supply (some friends had suggested it would hurt one or both to do so) than to show derailments were rare. The train was a Railking (MTH) Y6B pulling ten assorted low-friction freight cars and caboose. 

But i don't consider that extraordinary. Other than those I cause with my own stupidity or clumsiness, about one a month, I I have had only one de-railment in about 20,000 train operating hours (three trains, ten plus years, about two hours a day on average). That one dwas caused by a switch that failed completely, just dying. It was a Lionel Fastrack remote switch used as an anti-derailing return-loop operation switch - it operated once every time the loco passed - maybe 40 times an hour, and failed after six years (and so far, at ten years, the only one that has). Derailments just don't seem to happen very often in O-gauge.

When I had N gauge, it was another matter. Part of the reason I went to O ten years ago.


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## Bkubiak (Oct 20, 2013)

Lee Willis said:


> Interesting question. Somehow I missed this thread. I once ran a train for 100 hours straight on my O-gauge layout. It was more to proof the durability of an MTH engine running on a Lionel power supply (some friends had suggested it would hurt one or both to do so) than to show derailments were rare. The train was a Railking (MTH) Y6B pulling ten assorted low-friction freight cars and caboose.
> 
> But i don't consider that extraordinary. Other than those I cause with my own stupidity or clumsiness, about one a month, I I have had only one de-railment in about 20,000 train operating hours (three trains, ten plus years, about two hours a day on average). That one dwas caused by a switch that failed completely, just dying. It was a Lionel Fastrack remote switch used as an anti-derailing return-loop operation switch - it operated once every time the loco passed - maybe 40 times an hour, and failed after six years (and so far, at ten years, the only one that has). Derailments just don't seem to happen very often in O-gauge.
> 
> When I had N gauge, it was another matter. Part of the reason I went to O ten years ago.


I just gotta chime in here and rem-inis, way back when I was a little boy and Macy's and Gimbals had big window displays at Christmas time they all had huge train displays in the windows and they ran and ran and ran with lights flashing, crossing gates going up and down, a guy with a lantern in his hand popping in and out of a little house as the train came by and all sorts of things going on and never, ever a derail. Makes you gotta wonder, of course they did not have any turnouts, just round and round on those huge layouts in the window.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

A good point. Displays at local hobby shops - at mine they ran an O-gauge train for hours every day - prove that de-railments, and failures of locos and rolling stock wheels, etc., are just exceedingly rare. I imagine most de-railments are due to switches or poor track positioning - likely to happen with carpet layouts assembled and disassembled, but not on a permanent layout that has been sorted out and adjusted well.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

We have a display at a local pizza place (built by an acquaintance of mine) that just runs and runs and runs. Almost never has a problem (except when some jerk kid throws something over the glass partition and onto the layout).


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## Chet (Aug 15, 2014)

Under normal conditions I never have derailments. My track is all code 70, some hand laid and the remainder is Shinohara track. I was extremely carful when laying the track, some of it being in place for over 25 years. 

I also had a episode when I left the train room in a hurry and forgot I had a train running. Three days later when I entered the train room, the train was still running without any apparent problems. 

Before I put a freight car on the tracks, they all get metal wheels and Kadee couplers. The majority of my rolling stock was built when I started the layout, most being old Athearn blue box kits. 25 years ago they were among the better rolling stock availabl;e. Many of todays manufacturers were not around back then.


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## Mr. SP (Jan 7, 2015)

*How Long?*

All day. My railroad runs very well. Very few derailments.
All my rolling stock is equipped with "Kadee" couplers and trucks.
My rolling stock is also weighted to the proper weight according to car length.
Good track is also a must for good running.
Good track and good rolling stock= good running.


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## sknight751 (Feb 18, 2013)

*derailment*

Choose your loco's and rolling stock wisely. And sometimes, no matter what, some loco's/cars
just don't like your layout. Cut your losses and sell them. Even if you lose a couple of bucks, its better than having a drawer full of rolling stock collecting dust. Or, if they are favorites, replace the trucks/wheels. 

Usually a problematic switch will continue to be problematic. Do yourself a favor and replace it! The aggravation factor will far outweigh the few bucks you'll spend on a new one. I solder all my rail joints. That way if I have to put a little pressure on the joint to make it fit perfectly, the solder will hold it in that position forever.

Try to avoid a switch/turnout immediately after a curve. Give your train some time to straighten out before it goes into the switch. 

And everyone is right-many (if not most!) derailments are operator error!!!


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

sknight751 said:


> . . . .And sometimes, no matter what, some loco's/cars just don't like your layout. Cut your losses . . . . .
> 
> Usually a problematic switch will continue to be problematic.
> 
> ...


Wisdom based on experience, I'd say (and agree with). When I had a N-gauge layout, I worked hard to fine-tune track and switches, but I have a Concur Challenger that just would not get along with the layout. No matter what I did it would stll entirely at one place and often de-rail at another. Noting would fix that. Strangely, a Big Boy by the same manufacturer would. I finally just gave the Challenger to a friend - was doing me no good. 

Right now, my only problem loco is an O-gauge Legacy 4-12-2 that has "issues" with my layout and only runs well around just one of my three loops - and then only in one direction. Turn it around and it jumps a one point even though the curve there is supposedly wide enough for it. I keep it because it like it and frankly I think it is miraculous that any 12-driver non-articulated loco will run on O-72 curves. 

As to problem switches: if one loco or even one rolling stock has problems with one today, others will in the future. I learned long ago just to switch it out (pun intended) and try again.

finally, yes, its really nice to have a straight section right before or after a curve, but I've had to break this guideline so often that I just ignore it any more. Every one on my layout is very near a curve, so . . .


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## Water Stop (Apr 18, 2015)

How long can I run without derailing?

The whole time! (Atlas HO Code 70 Flex Track, BLI 2-8-0 Loco, Walthers rolling stock, 43" & 48" curves, not exceeding 50 scale MPH.)

W.S.


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## geekchris (Jun 23, 2015)

My derailments tend to be caused by operator error aswell, with the occasional unncoupling in one of the back tunnels


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

geekchris said:


> My derailments tend to be caused by operator error aswell, with the occasional unncoupling in one of the back tunnels


Mr. Murphy says that tunnels cause derailments and uncouplings, and the more difficult it is to reach, them more often it will happen!


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## santafealltheway (Nov 27, 2012)

CTValleyRR said:


> Mr. Murphy says that tunnels cause derailments and uncouplings, and the more difficult it is to reach, them more often it will happen!


I found my entire train derailed in my tunnel the other day... the culprit? Somehow my dog got her tennis ball stuck in the middle of it!


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Boy do I know that feeling! My cats love to stash their stuffed mice in the tunnel on my son's layout. Fortunately, he thinks it's extremely funny when that happens.


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## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

Mine only happen when I slide my layout closed a bit too ...ummm...enthusiastically....


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## /6 matt (Jul 7, 2015)

shaygetz said:


> Mine only happen when I slide my layout closed a bit too ...ummm...enthusiastically....


Looks like a pretty wicked model earthquake. :laugh:


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## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

/6 matt said:


> Looks like a pretty wicked model earthquake. :laugh:


Yes...my only design flaw...I hope to replace them with self closing slides...


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

At least the tank cars did not spill anything! Having the EPA come in to inspect your RR would be a paper nightmare!


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## TJSmith (Nov 16, 2015)

Mister Bill said:


> Just a couple of laps for me most of the time.
> 
> Although I try to keep everything in tune, it seems like there is always something I did not allow for or plan for.
> 
> Bill


I rarely have a derailment. Then again I don't run at breakneck speeds.


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## TJSmith (Nov 16, 2015)

shaygetz said:


> Yes...my only design flaw...I hope to replace them with self closing slides...


That is really neat!


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Once I get a train going around through the 3 separate routes
I don't have derailments thanks to my ever loving
Peco turnouts...UNTIL I fail to use my truly awkward
turnout control panel correctly...you have to throw a switch, THEN
push a button. The switch alone doesn't do it. If I was nagged
enough I just might replace the with the Kstapleton 751D.

Don


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## gator do 65 (Jan 27, 2014)

Right up to the point I turn my back!


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## RonthePirate (Sep 9, 2015)

Well, this is no way to run a railroad!


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

If we discount operator errors, where i do something stupid, I can run virtually forever. I don't think I've had any incident in the past five years. 

I have about one "incident" a month, where I leave some cars on a mainline thinking i put them on a siding, etc., and then run another train into them.


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## rboatertoo (Aug 5, 2015)

I have problems with cars uncoupling, until the black electrical tape is applied!!!


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

RonthePirate said:


> Well, this is no way to run a railroad!


Hey, it didn't derail, did it?


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