# My 1st S gauge AF - saved from garage sale - what to do?



## DennisT (Apr 13, 2013)

I've, "been into," model railroading since 1955. So that tells something already. Currently enjoy a few examples from different scales. I have a few Gilbert AF HO 0-6-0's I'll be trying to restore this winter. Two days ago at a garage sale, I was visiting with the seller, a friend and retired Great Northern B&B man. As I was leaving he called me back and said he'd found an, "old train," if I wanted to look at it. I did. Filthy, torn cardboard box with some, "train rubble," in it. I could immediately see American Flyer, broken cars, semi-rusty track. So as my mind is silently saying, "Oh man, what would I ever do with this mess," his wife says, "six-bucks - take it with you." So I did, replying I'd try to find a home for it at the next train show in October. Emptying out and cleaning up the, "stuff," back home here's what I have:
1. "MAR," Toy Transformer, 70watt. 5-15V
2. "American Flyer Toy Transformer No. 1 1/2 B, 50W"
3. One gondola...actually complete with knuckle coupers.
4. An odd, (to me), electrical uncoupler...(?) 
5. Two AF red cabooses, both with either pieces missing or broken trucks.
6. A heavy box car with a long slot in the top and a wire/peg sticking out. Must be for some actuated load or????? Incomplete.
7. Four pieces of semi-rusty track. Not even a circle.
8. And, at the very bottom, a 4-4-2 Atlantic, cab side numbered 303. Danged thing seems complete except for a missing hex head screw for the main driver crank pin. Brass bushing is there and I think the screw is broken off inside. Crosshead guides bent, but that's no problem. NO broken parts on boiler/cab or tender. However, tender has half of the rear truck missing. Peeking into inside I see no rust or real crud. Knuckle rear coupler.

So my problem is that I'm getting attached to this locomotive. (Rats) I haven't put power to it in any fashion, but have been searching the sites trying to learn more. Did find and save a 1949 manual. Also these appear to be AC power motors, so if the transformers are still OK, I should have a power source that is proper. Oh, tender is lettered for Reading/American Flyer Lines. Apparently this is a 1954 to 1956 AF product.

So I suppose at next month's train show, instead of getting rid of this stuff I'll be looking for at least a circle of track and truck parts. Plus a screw for the driver.

Any tips on sources for trucks?? Primarily for this poor tender. OR, any service tips I should implement before applying power to the locomotive? Tricks for disassembly and cleaning locomotive? 

Thanks for listening; not sure what I've gotten myself into with this poor thing...........
Dennis in E WA state


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

The 303i is a good running engine. It has smoke, choo choo and the red plastic insert with white paint on the stack interior to produce "red glowing smoke." 
In order to test it make sure the tender pickup wheels are clean, the linkage is not bent and binding and the armature rotates freely when rotated with your finger. Spray the commutator with some contact cleaner, put it on the track, connect and turn on the 1 1/2 transformer and see if it runs. The 303 has a 4 position reverse unit in the tender. If it runs then a more complete cleaning and lubrication is warranted. If it does not run then it needs to be tested to see why not. 
Gilbert track requires 12 curved pieces to make a circle. Hopefully there was a track clip in the box to attach the wires to the track. 
The box car is a walking brakeman action car. It uses a vibrator in the car to cause a brakeman figure that attaches to the rod to move back and forth along the car roof. 
Try Portlines hobbies for the missing pieces.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

I have several 303's.. They are nice, little engines.. They also have pul mor tires so they'll pull a nice long consist. Before you fire up the engine, I would squirt some smoke fluid down inside the chimney and let it soak in for a few minutes. I always do this with any engine that has smoke. The thing you don't want to do is to fire up the engine with a dry wick, as you could burn it out. I've had basket-case engines that after a little soaking in the smoke fluid, as soon as I add power, they start smoking right away, and stay that way. Flyer engines have a habit of loooong life, even after sitting in a box for 20+ years. Usually all they require is a thorough cleaning, some oiling, and off they go. They are very simple to work on. and should last you another 50 years. If you have any problems with dis-assembly/repair/re-assembly, we're help to help you. And if you're uncomfortable with any part of the process, or even the whole thing, mail it out to me or one of the other guys here, and we'll get 'er running for you.:smilie_daumenpos: PortLines is our go to place for parts, usually, and/or ebay for such things as trucks,etc. Good luck.


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

I'd say you got yourself a bargain for a measly $6. That walking brakeman car is worth 8 times the amount if it is in decent shape, more if it is in great shape. The engine can be fixed quite easily. When you get the urge to move forward with repairs, post your needs here along with a few photos and we'll get you going on it. We're here to help....


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## DennisT (Apr 13, 2013)

Thank you all very much. That's certainly encouraging. Looks like I need to shop for smoke fluid. I haven't had any of that in my hand for years. And we're not near any hobby shop. But I'll find it. This could be a real kick this Fall - especially when the cold weather chases me back inside. Dennis


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## longbow57ca (Oct 26, 2015)

Hello, If you do not have a American Flyer lockon just solder 2 wires on bottom of the track then connect to transformer so you can test you engine. I do not use lockons at all I solder all my wires. The wire I use 14 gauge wire mostly speaker wire from Hardware store. I helps to have good soldering iron too for American flyer trains. Thanks longbow57ca


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

*Just for testing*, you don't even have to solder the wires.
Just stick them up under the tube of the rail.

It sounds like it is worth the 6 bucks just for parts alone.:thumbsup:


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

ED, the AF rails are solid. The caboose may be a source of pickup wheels sets. You need four for the tender. In the tender, the electrical isolation from the frame to truck is critical. I have a 207 with an intermittent ground and drove me nuts. I ended up reinsulating the trucks . A pickup wheel set has one metal and one plastic wheel.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

T-Man said:


> ED, the AF rails are solid.


Well how am I supposed to know that.:goofball:
I never had any Flyer rails.

I did not know that................OK, pull out the solder iron.

Still sounds like a good deal for 6 bucks.


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## DennisT (Apr 13, 2013)

*update*

Thanks for all the helpful comments since I first posted this topic. I've gotten a few things cleaned up but am having a difficulty finding the time to get down to really getting this 4-4-2 going. Did make a train show where I picked up another Flyer 4-4-2....the version with separate, wire handrails and a little, "lever," on top of the boiler. Ten bucks for this one, but it needs help and has NO smokebox front. Cab roof, rear, has one corner bent down slightly, but I have a hunch if I try to straighten it I'll have a broken piece. Maybe just leave it. Mostly there otherwise. Also was able to complete a circle of track. Getting the old farmstead here winterized has kept me away from railroading, but as the winter closes in it will take some real urgency to keep me outside much more. Better then. I did get in some smoke fluid and spare wick. Dennis


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

DennisT said:


> Thanks for all the helpful comments since I first posted this topic. I've gotten a few things cleaned up but am having a difficulty finding the time to get down to really getting this 4-4-2 going. Did make a train show where I picked up another Flyer 4-4-2....the version with separate, wire handrails and a little, "lever," on top of the boiler. Ten bucks for this one, but it needs help and has NO smokebox front. Cab roof, rear, has one corner bent down slightly, but I have a hunch if I try to straighten it I'll have a broken piece. Maybe just leave it. Mostly there otherwise. Also was able to complete a circle of track. Getting the old farmstead here winterized has kept me away from railroading, but as the winter closes in it will take some real urgency to keep me outside much more. Better then. I did get in some smoke fluid and spare wick. Dennis


The smoke box front can be bought repo.... The little lever on top of the boiler is the reverse unit lock-out.... You can fix that bend by heating it with a plumbers torch, CAREFULLY, and carefully bending it back into shape.. I've done it...


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