# first ever layout build



## fluffybunny (Apr 24, 2011)

Hello everyone,
My name is Richard and I have been into trains for a really long time. I had some trains running around on the floor as a kid but really got into it with an older neighbor who lived down the street and had a HO layout in his house. 

Got away from trains in teens/early 20s but got back into it in my late 20s with lego trains. I know some people in the model train community don't like lego trains, but us in the lego community for the most part see us as train guys just the same as more traditional guys, just our trains and scenery are made from lego bricks, instead of styrene or..well whatever grass and trees are made of.

I am moving into a new house that has a heated and cooled 3 car garage that is going to be used as a workshop area/train area(yes I do know sawdust and dust can be an issue, I have some ideas on that) We aren't storing any cars in the garage.

I am planning on building a layout of some sort in HO but to get started I think I am going to make a more module type build as opposed to a full on around the room huge layout, at least getting started. I want to have something smaller to build so I can actually finish it in a reasonable amount of time, yes I also know they are never truly finished.

I am going to build a Inglenook Siding based module but this is where I start to have questions. I am familiar with the free-mo standard, I saw it at the national train show in Kansas City this year(yes I was one of the lego guys there) and considering using that, except I think that adds some wiring complexity, and I am using the NCE DCC system currently. I have been building up a small fleet and buying a few locomotives and got some bachman ez track to just play with before I build a a layout. Is it possible to run free-mo with NCE and maybe just have an adapter board or something to run digitracks if I end up bringing my module to a bigger display? I am also considering just coming up with my own standard module and using that.

I also plan to set this up VERY overkill just to learn things, for example I am going to use tortoise switch motors on my turnouts which is no way necessary but I want the experience with using them, on a smaller module where if I mess it up too bad I'm not causing too many problems.

So I have a few questions.
1. What do you think of my idea of doing a small module to start with?
2. should I do free-mo if so can I use nce instead of digitracks?
3. Are there any other small, like 2 foot by 6 foot or maybe 8 foot simple layouts you would recommend I look at as opposed to using the inglenook sidings. Again I am wanting something small that can be completed(getting trackwork done, wiring, basic scenery) in a reasonable amount of time. I do understand that small size its very limited, totally point to point. If I want to see trains run in a circle I have a loop of ez track I can use.

Thanks for your help and advice looking forward to getting started!


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

First, for the benefit of our members, here is
a description of the Free-Mo modular system.

http://www.free-mo.org/standard

From a quick scan of that text it appears to be
a set of rules for those who wish to connect
their modules to others using the same system.

Many large clubs use a module system perhaps
somewhat similar so they can transport a large
layout to a train show, reassemble it easily,
and operate for the attendees.

NCE and Digitrax DCC systems conform to the
NMRA standards, therefore you can use either
makers products without conflict. A Digitrax decoder
will be perfectly happy obeying an NCE control
signal.

I see no conflict between the Free-Mo system and
any DCC. It always pays to observe wiring standards
no matter the layout power system.

My room size layout benchwork is totally modular.
There are various size modules that I constructed on 
my carport to keep down the mess.

My layout was not built to be moved about thus
my wiring is totally undertable without expensive and
possible trouble prone plugs and jacks.

Unless you plan on taking your module to train
meets with others using the Free-mo system I see no
reason to use their wiring connections. With DCC
you need only a main bus from your controller with
track drops every 6 feet or so connected to it. It's
that simple. Build your first module but add barrier
terminal strips for yoiur track bus where it would butt against any additional
module. When that happens just connect the bus wires
and go on. Turnout control wires would be better
simply run thru frame holes. Many have fascia panels
on each module for their turnout controls instead of
one large central panel.

Don


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

First of all, there is the "digitracks" issue. If, as Don assumed, you mean Digitrax, a manufacturer of DCC systems, there is no reason to switch. NCE, Digitrax, MRC, and a few others build fully functional DCC systems, and the only reason to pick one over the other is convenience features and personal preference. If you already have an NCE system, it will grow with you. There is no need to change manufacturers, ever.

On modules, yes, they are a great way to start. You don't need to build to Free-Mo standards unless, as Don said, you intend to link your modules to those designed and built by others

There is no problem with over engineering things except extra time, effort, and expense, so that's up to you. My own approach is the minimum effort consistent with acceptable performance (IOW, 10% of the effort gets you 90% of the result), bit you have to do what is right for you. Your layout, your rules.

To help you get started, I recommend that you subscribe to Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine (www.model-railroad-hobbyist.com), a free, on-line only publication. In addition to tons of great content every month, for about two years now, they have been advocating what they call TOMA, or The One Module Approach. Basically, this involves developing a large home layout as a series of independent modules, completed (more or less) one at a time. Sounds like exactly what you need.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Modular or sectional?*

fluffy bunny;

I like your idea of starting out with a small section. In fact I recommended the idea in one of my articles written for new modelers.*

As for Free Mo modular that would depend on whether you plan to take your module to train shows and connect it to other people's modules, or not. While the terms "Modular" and "Sectional" are often used interchangeably, and we understand what someone means if they happen to use one term rather than the other, there is a technical difference.

Modules are built to the standards of some group, like Free Mo, or N-Track, specifically so that they can be connected to other modules that meet the same set of standards.

Sections are simply that; a model railroad built in pieces designed to be assembled in only one configuration, and not designed to interface with anyone else's sections.

Please do not take the preceding definitions as criticism of you or your terminology. The only reason I bring it up at all is to point out the differences between two concepts, and let you decide which one you want to follow.

The only reason I can see for following the Free Mo standards would be if you personally DO want to be able to connect to the Free Mo modules of other people at a show. If you don't have any interest in doing that, then I'd suggest simply building sections of your own design that need satisfy only you. My own sectional railroad is built this way.

Sectional (or modular) construction not only makes your railroad easier to transport up stairs, through doorways, and around corners if you need to. It also lets you do just what you said you want to; build, and enjoy running, one small piece of your layout at a time. You will also have a much easier time mounting those Tortoise machines, and wiring, if you can take the section to a workbench, and turn it upside down.

I recommend restricting the size of a section to 4'x2' max. this is just to help in physically handling the sections as described earlier. Two 4' sections are easier to handle than one 6' or 8' section. Feel free to build them bigger, or smaller, as you wish however, as it's your railroad.

Good luck with whatever you choose.

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:

*
View attachment How to better model railroad the first time. Part 1.pdf


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