# Bachmann Amfleet conversion to Micro Trains



## TimW (Oct 20, 2018)

I have a set of Amfleet coaches that I'd like to convert to Micro Trains couplers. I've looked at Micro Trains' truck replacement recommendation for these cars, but that results in a footprint that is completely non-prototypical, so I'll need to change out the coupler boxes. Has anyone done this, and how difficult is it? I'm pretty new to N Scale and until now have gone with the one-to-one truck swap.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Coupler mounting*



TimW said:


> I have a set of Amfleet coaches that I'd like to convert to Micro Trains couplers. I've looked at Micro Trains' truck replacement recommendation for these cars, but that results in a footprint that is completely non-prototypical, so I'll need to change out the coupler boxes. Has anyone done this, and how difficult is it? I'm pretty new to N Scale and until now have gone with the one-to-one truck swap.


TimW;

Yes, I have body-mounted N-scale (and even Z-scale! ) Micro-Trains couplers, though not on Amfleet cars per se.

I'm not sure what, specifically, you mean that swapping trucks would "result in a completely non-prototypical footprint?" If you mean that prototype couplers are mounted to the body of the car, and don't swing with the trucks through a huge opening, I get that, but, if I understand you correctly, you have done truck swaps on other (freight?) cars,and found their "footprints" acceptable?

Body-mounted couplers certainly look more like the prototype on any model car, or locomotive. However, for long cars, like your Amfleet coaches, The extreme tightness of model track curves, relative to the prototype, needs to be considered.
The prototype Amfleet equipment never has to negotiate any curve even remotely equivalent to a 19" radius model one, let alone a 9-3/4" radius curve.
The one advantage of truck-mounted couplers is that they tend to stay closer to the track center-line when traversing tight curves. Body-mounts tend to try to push the cars sideways, and sometimes derail, long cars, making tight curves.
So, what is the minimum radius you are using on your railroad? If it's 15" or larger, then body-mounted couplers on long cars will probably work well. If you have tighter curves than that, you may have to accept the appearance of truck-mounted couplers.

The actual mechanics of body-mounting the couplers is not that difficult. :hah: Not easy, but possible.
First, you have a choice of which type of Micro-Trains couplers you want. Pre-assembled coupler and draft gear boxes are easier to work with, but the un-assembled, kit type, are cheaper. The 00/90 screws are usually packed with the couplers. You may want to buy some spare screws and one of Micro-Trains drill bit and tap kits for 00/90 screws. Another important tool you will need is a loco/car cradle. (see top photo) It holds the car in place, upside down, while you work. You can make your own, or buy one from Micro Mark tool Co.
Unless you have eyes like an eagle, you will also need an Optovisor magnifier to see what your doing. Tweezers and jeweler's screwdrivers will also be needed. Another very handy tool is a screw starter. The tiny wire "fingers" can pickup, hold, and even start threading, those tiny screws. (see bottom photo)
One sorry thing I discovered about the pre-assembled draft gear boxes, is that they can come apart. I use a small, low wattage soldering iron to weld the corners of the boxes. I've never found any glue that will work on the Delrin plastic the boxes are made of, and glue would run into places you don't want it all too easily.
If you elect to use the kit couplers and assemble them yourself, Micro-Trains sells special tools for the task. The holding fixture, special slotted tweezers, and spring pick tools are essential. So is lots, and lots, of patience!  I also recommend working on top of a white terrycloth towel held down to the table with substantial weights, like bricks. The towel catches some of the fly away parts and the bricks keep the towel from falling off the table and dumping those tiny parts all over the floor. Been there! Done that! :smilie_auslachen:

good luck;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## TimW (Oct 20, 2018)

Thanks for the information. The replacement trucks recommended by Micro Trains look nothing like the ones that come on the coaches, hence the "unacceptable footprint" I mention. Bachmann did a very respectable job in replicating the trucks used on the Amfleet coaches, but those Rapido couplers! 

The Rapido couplers on the Bachmann coaches are attached to very long arms that originate from, but operate independently from the pins that attach the trucks to the coach underframes. It doesn't appear that there is a place to apply a new body mount coupler without substantially modifying the underframe.

I really prefer the appearance of the Micro Trains couplers when compared to Rapidos as they are much closer to the look of the "real thing", but in this case going with a new truck to get the better coupler is more evil than just dealing with the Rapidos as it results in a significant (and totally incorrect) appearance change.


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## GNfan (Jun 3, 2016)

If your coaches are lighted like the Amcafe I got off Amazon, remember that the power pickups are also part of the trucks.


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## TimW (Oct 20, 2018)

Not lighted, but thanks for the tip!


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Another Micro Trains mounting suggestion.*



TimW said:


> I have a set of Amfleet coaches that I'd like to convert to Micro Trains couplers. I've looked at Micro Trains' truck replacement recommendation for these cars, but that results in a footprint that is completely non-prototypical, so I'll need to change out the coupler boxes. Has anyone done this, and how difficult is it? I'm pretty new to N Scale and until now have gone with the one-to-one truck swap.


TimW;

I thought I'd already sent this suggestion, but I don't see it in this thread. I may have sent it to the wrong part of cyberspace. :smilie_auslachen:

Since you want to keep the more prototypical Bachman trucks; maybe the Micro Trains couplers could be screwed onto those long independent arms you described, in place of the Rapidos?
Normally Rapido couplers are held in place by a metal strap that surrounds the draft gear box and then is folded over like a staple. I've been able to remove them by straitening out those bent over tabs. Perhaps the arm could then be drilled and tapped to mount a Micro-Trains coupler?

Sometimes, in tight places where an N-scale coupler won't fit (for example, on the pilot of a steam locomotive) I've used a Z-scale M-T coupler. They are smaller, including the box. They are also actually closer to accurate N-scale that the "N-scale" ones. The Z and N couplers will mate with each other. The only part of the Z-scale version that won't work on an N-scale car is the metal trip pin, or "air hose" used for magnetic uncoupling. It's too short when mounted on the higher N-scale car. A longer trip pin can be made from iron florist's wire, or steel music wire.

Hope that helps;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## Viperjim1 (Mar 19, 2015)

Have you thought of using the red caboose non magnetic knuckle couplers? They fit into the slot the rapidos come out of and are made in small , medium ,and large shank, bu the you will have to lift the car to couple it. To the other cars as they are not lick microtrains, but resemble them without trip pins.


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## KisNap (Aug 4, 2014)

Convert 1 car so one side has the knuckle coupler and leave the rest as rapido. It works really well that way. Convert an end car as well if you're going for appearances.


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## TimW (Oct 20, 2018)

Thanks for all the responses. To help understand my dilemma, I've attached photos of the car fully assembled and partially disassembled. I am not married to magnetic couplers, but want to replace the toy-like Rapidos with knuckle couplers that will mate with Micro-Trains couplers. Thanks again!


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## KisNap (Aug 4, 2014)

Two methods

1) cut off rapido coupler as close to coupler as possible. Drill a hole using a micro drill bit #80 I believe, centered close to the end of the snipped sway bar. Screw the knuckle couple onto the bar. Check height.

2) Body mount. This is what I did. Cut away the bottom of the diaphragm enough to reveal the bottom of the chassis and to allow the coupler housing to fit. Drill the small hole centered on the car close to the edge of the chassis to allow for enough coupling distance. Screw the coupler on and check height. Add shims if needed between the coupler and chassis to lower the coupler height. This worked very well for me.

Again, I just did the lead car since the rapido coupling systems works amazingly well holding the cars together and is hidden by the diaphragms.


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## KisNap (Aug 4, 2014)

I'd check distance first, but the molded circle shown in the first and third picture may even be guidance for doing the first procedure, but I'd check by holding the coupler up to it first. It might not be far enough out and could just be left from the molding process to cast the coupler in production.


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