# Planning advice needed



## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

Ok, I've looked at many layout designs in magazines and online and no matter what, I can't seem to wrap my mind around how to make a layout work in a given size room. I'm actually considering room size in looking at new houses. We may be moving sometime in the next few years and I'm wondering what I'm going to need. I'm not the type that feels compelled to take over an entire huge basement. I've seen the layouts like that and they're awesome. I surely appreciate them but I don't know that I want to commit to something that large. (Also have other hobbies that need space too.) That being said, I'm going to need something larger than a 4x8. 

I want to model an HO scale 40s era but I also really like modern era BNSF SD70s/ES44s, etc... I've even thought about doing a half room old, half room new, modern layout so I could do both. Maybe have a divider wall splitting them down the middle. 
The problem is enough space. The steamers need the big radius curves. While modern locos and cars are absolutely huge compared to the old ones. 

A nice mainline with one or two tracks for running over cool bridges is the main priority. I'd like a siding here and there. But I don't know how to come up with something. If I had a 13x15 room today, I don't know what to do with it. How to set up benchwork so you can get in and out of the room and still get a steam engine around a loop with 22 to 24" radius curves minimum. I'm thinking 18s are out of the question for me. Maybe it's just going to take a much bigger area than I'm expecting. But I'd actually like to keep it to a minimum and just make it very nice. That would be enough for me.

What do you guys think I should look for in a basement? What size room would be ideal for a layout like I describe above? Any advice appreciated.


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## spoil9 (Dec 24, 2008)

A 10x15 room gives plenty of room for your requirements. You could build a U shaped wall mounted layout with a pair of 24" radius loops at the end. That would give you a 2ft ish space between the loops to squeeze through to get to the rest of the lay out.

Or, you could build a around the room wall mounted layout and have a bridge go across the door opening that you would "duck under" to get to the center of the layout.

You could also do a small run around 3 walls and have a point to point switching layout.

As far as the time period, that's entirely up to your personal preference, but keep in mind that nothing stops you from running a modern time period layout through some old time back woods town, (the kind of place that time forgot). Also, depending what you like about the 40's, there's always excursion trains, running museums, short line RR that kept an old time loco/train running instead of buying new, etc. 

Hope this helps.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Spoil9 has it right, an around the room layout gives you nice broad sweeping
curve possibilities for big steamers. You also could use that track length for
a gentle rise to a higher level that would give you bridges and tunnels.

The major consideration is the 'bridge' that you'll have to have at the entrance
door. My around the room layout has a complex turnout arrangement at that point that
precluded me from building a movable 'bridge' that would enable a 'walk thru' passage.
By all means, try to work that in. It gets old mighty fast to have to crawl
under your layout time after time.

But the running and operating capabilities are many with an around the room
layout. You also have enuf space that you could build a small peninsula in
the middle for a yard or industrial sidings. Be sure to consider that there
will be a need to reach the track near the wall, so don't let your layout be
so wide that you can't easily reach that derailed or uncoupled car.

Don


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## timlange3 (Jan 16, 2013)

The door (or window) bridge can be built as a quick lift-out or for doors as a gate that swings open. Or if the railroad is high enough, say shoulder level, then a duck under may be the way to go, but make it a short duck under, so you just have to dip your head and not have to crouch and take several steps. I've seen one where the railroad was at 6' 6" so you could walk under it without ducking, once inside you would step up on a platform that put the railroad at shoulder level. I believe they had 9' ceilings though. It was a 'no duck' duck under. Or you could set the railroad at 48" and have a mechanic stool (12" high seat) to use to scoot under the railroad. Mine (not around the whole room) is at 52" so I can put my work desk, TV, storage, and bookcases under it.


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

timlange3 said:


> The door (or window) bridge can be built as a quick lift-out or for doors as a gate that swings open. Mine (not around the whole room) is at 52" so I can put my work desk, TV, storage, and bookcases under it.


 That would be fantastic to have quality storage space left underneath everything. 



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