# Question wiring up a pl13 for signal lights on control panel.



## Conductorkev (Nov 5, 2021)

So I have pl 10s already hooked up and running but want to add signal lights but the wiring for the pl 13 I'm a little fuzzy on. Below I'll post the instructions that give a vague wiring diagram 
I can't use the power that goes to the pl10 considering it comes off a cdu which would mess up that whole system if I tried.
My thought was to run another power supply for the pl13 but am nit positive on how. From what I sorta of gather I could run another bus wire from one side of the power supply which would go to the common of each pl 13. The other two posts would go to the red side of both the lights. The other side of the power supply would then be hooked up with all tge black sides of the lights. Is this correct or am I missing something?


----------



## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

Sometimes a picture is worth 1,000 words 









The polarity may need to be correct. IIRC, LEDs only work when polarity is correct.

I think you are wise to use a dedicated power supply for your signals. It keeps things simple.


----------



## Conductorkev (Nov 5, 2021)

JeffHurl said:


> Sometimes a picture is worth 1,000 words
> 
> View attachment 594625
> 
> ...


Ya definitely needed polarity. The power would only work if one side was on lights and the other side on the pl13 would not work the other way. I will say that the pl13 is a pos. I kept having problems with it working tried making adjustments and the bottom of the pl13 fell out and still trying to see if thst one is fixable. The next one one of the arms you vconnect to broke off. At this time was getting frustrated working under the table clear on the other side of my layout from where the control panel is. After a long backbreaking time I managed to get it working however sometimes it won't snap when I flip the switch and have to try doing it a few times then it will snap. I read up I guess this is a known problem with them.going to try to apply wd40 which I've heard helps but it's going to have to wait considering this work is killing me...


----------



## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

Conductorkev said:


> Ya definitely needed polarity. The power would only work if one side was on lights and the other side on the pl13 would not work the other way. I will say that the pl13 is a pos. I kept having problems with it working tried making adjustments and the bottom of the pl13 fell out and still trying to see if thst one is fixable. The next one one of the arms you vconnect to broke off. At this time was getting frustrated working under the table clear on the other side of my layout from where the control panel is. After a long backbreaking time I managed to get it working however sometimes it won't snap when I flip the switch and have to try doing it a few times then it will snap. I read up I guess this is a known problem with them.going to try to apply wd40 which I've heard helps but it's going to have to wait considering this work is killing me...


Conductorkev;

If you "try WD-40" (not recommended by me) at least use the contact cleaner type, not regular WD-40. The contacts on a PL-13 are open, and regular WD 40 may tend to insulate them a bit. It will also attract dust, which, over time, will cause electrical contact problems.

Since you're having lots of problems with the PL-13, you might try a simple micro-switch with a long wire actuator. The Peco PL-10 twin-coil switch machine has a vertical rod that moves the throwbar. Mount the micro-switch where the PL10's rod hits the micro-switch's actuator when the turnout is thrown for one route. (it doesn't mater which one) You can, and should, solder long wires to the three terminals of the micro-switch before going under the table. Let the wires trail behind you when you go under to mount the micro-switch. Start your crawl from near your control panel, since that's where the wires will need to be connected. You could avoid most of the crawl if you tie a string to the micro-switch end of your wires, and a tool or other weight, to the other end of the string. Throw the weighted end under the table, walk around to the other side, and pick up the weight. Pull the string to drag the micro-switch & wires over to where they will be mounted. 

Micro-switches mount with very small screws or possibly double-sided tape. If you use screws, don't tighten them beyond just barely snug. The box of a micro-switch is made of brittle plastic and can easily break if you tighten the screws too much. To make the switch mounting easier, you might mount it to a small scrap of plywood, or plastic, with screw holes drilled in the plywood/ plastic mounting plate, while still at your workbench, and carry the assembly under the table.

By the way, you are now, unfortunately, experiencing up close and personal, one of the reasons why I stress sectional construction in my posted files. Besides making it easier to take your layout with you if you ever have to move, sections can be taken to a workbench and turned upside down, eliminating the backbreaking, & frustrating, ordeal you have just been through. You can sit down and work in comfort, with plenty of light, and with gravity working with you, instead of against you. Presumably, its too late to go sectional on your current layout, but something to include when planning your next one.

Good Luck;

Traction Fan


----------



## Conductorkev (Nov 5, 2021)

traction fan said:


> Conductorkev;
> 
> If you "try WD-40" (not recommended by me) at least use the contact cleaner type, not regular WD-40. The contacts on a PL-13 are open, and regular WD 40 may tend to insulate them a bit. It will also attract dust, which, over time, will cause electrical contact problems.
> 
> ...



Well I gave up on them for now. Like I said I could get them to work but not consistently sometimes UT would hang up so didnt want them in atm. I have bigger problems in my layout. The left side was mostly done before surgery the right half after and it shows. I did a pretty bad job rethinking it all now. If I feel I need to redo the whole part I might make a few more changes.


----------



## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

Conductorkev said:


> Well I gave up on them for now. Like I said I could get them to work but not consistently sometimes UT would hang up so didnt want them in atm. I have bigger problems in my layout. The left side was mostly done before surgery the right half after and it shows. I did a pretty bad job rethinking it all now. If I feel I need to redo the whole part I might make a few more changes.


Conductorkev;

I don't understand what you mean by " UT" or "atm." 
Sometimes, if enough things go wrong, its time to start over from scratch. That has to be your call of course.
I'm currently starting over on my grandson's layout, for an unusual, but quite valid, reason, layout weight. The original 7' x 3' layout is heavy enough that its very difficult for a 74-yr. old, partially disabled, man and his 67-yr old wife to carry it into the garage from the shed where we have to store it between our grandson's visits.
The second version has a base of 2' thick extruded foam, and minimal wood. Its much lighter than the original plywood & L-girder layout.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Traction Fan 🙂


----------



## Conductorkev (Nov 5, 2021)

traction fan said:


> Conductorkev;
> 
> I don't understand what you mean by " UT" or "atm."
> Sometimes, if enough things go wrong, its time to start over from scratch. That has to be your call of course.
> ...



UT was typo meant it

Atm = at the moment.

Ya on the second half I took shortcuts and rushed it so track work nor the greatest and neither is the benchwork...


----------

