# Rebuilding Mantua 2-8-2 Mikado



## MayanMan (Dec 12, 2012)

I have decided to use this 2-8-2 Mantua for my Polar Express layout. 




























It has some good scratches and so I want to strip it down and repaint it. I have done some reading and have found recommendations to use everything from rubbing alcohol to oven cleaner.

What are your recommendations and why?


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Is it a metal shell casting (loco and tender), or a plastic one?

If metal, I'd remove all of the extra bits (motor, handrails, drivrods, etc.), disassemble into individual shell components, and use oven cleaner to strip the old paint. I use Walmart Heavy Duty, but you could use Easy Off Heavy Duty, too. Spray on the shell pieces in a couple of layers of throw-away tinfoil lasagna pans. Cover with tinfoil. Let sit a few hours. Remove, and rinse and rub down with ScotchBrite pads. Dry, and repeat the process as needed. After all of the paint is removed, continue to buff the shell with clean/dry ScotchBrite pads and/or a Dremel with stainless wire brush.

Wipedown with alcohol (isop or denatured) prior to prime/paint.

Have fun!

TJ


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## MayanMan (Dec 12, 2012)

The loco is metal and the tinder is plastic. 

So I am assuming I would not want to use the oven cleaner on the plastic, right?

Also, why do you prefer the oven cleaner vs mineral spirits, or some other normal paint stripper?


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Oven cleaner won't hurt the plastic and it's cheap. I've cleaned several cars that had two and three coats of paint on them and they came out fine. Using the alcohol to give a final cleaning is good. Leaves the surface clean and dry for the new paint. Big thing is let the pieces sit like maybe overnight with the oven cleaner on them. You will probably have to do this several times to get all the paint off. Any old paint that isn't cleaned off good will show through the new paint so take your time and clean ALL the old paint off. Mineral spirits has some oil in it or something because it leaves a film on the piece to be painted and the new paint will crinkle and wrinkle and have birds eyes in it. Pete


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

I have restored several Mantua locomotives. I second the paint stripping method above. When you disassemble the loco check for any signs of zink pest. I have only seen it in two Mantuas that I have worked on but have seen it more in other brands from the same period. Zink pest is a 'decay' process caused by impurities in the metal used to make the item. It cannot be stopped and will destroy the model over time. If there are cracks, expansion (swelling) or crumbliness anywhere in the shell or chassis start looking for a replacement part prior to the restoration.


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## trainguru (Jun 28, 2011)

*Don't Touch That Mantua! There's an easier way.*

MayanMan, welcome to MTF! If you really want to make a "Polar Express," I suggest you put forth the investment for a Rivarossi Pere Marquette Berkshire. The Pere Marquette Berkshire No.1225, was the locomotive used for the sound of the Polar Express movie locomotive, and it's a really nice locomotive. I actually have both a Lionel Polar Express set, and an HO Rivarossi Pere Marquette Berkshire, and with those cookie cutter flanges on the HO locomotive, the locomotive can take as tight a curve as 18" (eighteen inches).

The Mantua is the easiest locomotive to maintain, and yes you can do amazing things with them, but I would leave it stock. It looks okay stock. Besides, it will be a chop-buster if you do the rebuilding on a cast-metal locomotive like the Mikado there (and even harder cramming a four wheel truck under the cab too). It will look better, like the real thing, with the *"real"* Polar Express locomotive! Cheers, and choose wisely the path. It's totally up to you.

Signed: Trainguru - "Model-Railroader-Par-Knowledged Youth" -- :thumbsup:


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

I have an HO Pere Marquette 1225 also, and was modified to look like the reak thing by getting rid of the 2nd headlight. My loco was made in '95 and does not have the pizza cutter flanges. It has the TSU 1000 Heavy Steam sound decoder in it.

The real deal's blueprints were used and the artists also drew out the Polar Express based on the original 1225. They did use the real sounds, like indicated by the guru.

I have to agree with trainguru. Find a Berk and make the paint and decal changes. If you google for Pere Marquette 1225 photos, you will see what it looks like. It's a nice looking locomotive, built by LIMA, not Baldwin, like the movie indicates.


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## MayanMan (Dec 12, 2012)

I would love to have a Pere Marquette Berkshire No.1225, but unfortunately, I can't afford another engine. And if I try to get one, I may be sleeping outside with the dog.. 

It is an amazing engine though. Would love to have the DCC layout to with it, unfortunately everything I have is DC.. so another problem.

Maybe in a few years, I'll be able to upgrade to DCC and then get the Pere Marquette Berkshire No.1225 to go with it.


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## THE TYCO MAN (Aug 23, 2011)

I used brake fluid when stripping diecast stuff. Simple Green will remove plastic paint safely. Brake fluid would be good for plastic, just gotta watch how long it soaks or eventually it'll soften up!


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

I have heard of the brake fluid trick also. I have not tried it yet.

Oven cleaner I have used, but on a car engine. It removed all the paint and the excess oil/grease and grime.


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## MayanMan (Dec 12, 2012)

I think I am going to try the brake fluid first since that is what I have. I'll let you know if it works.


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## MayanMan (Dec 12, 2012)

I was able to get the paint stripped down and the body is nice and shiny now.










I am guessing that I need to prime it and then paint it black. I have read that the Walmart flat black is a good color. Any recommendations on the primer?


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

The shell looks nice. Ditto on the cab?

I would make sure you stick with same-brand primer and paint. If it were me, I'd spend $3.50 on Krlyon primer and $3.50 on Krylon flat black. Walmart sells Krylon.

Some suggesions, if I may... Paint in this order:

1. upside down, prime inside of shell.
2. right side up, prime outside of shell.

Let dry, 24 hours or more. "Buff down" gently with a very fine ScotchBrite pad. Don't use a pad fresh out of the box. Rather, rub a new pad first on some scrap hard surface (countertop, etc.) to remove the most abrasive "bite". Then blow the pad clean, and then use it on the loco.

3. upside down, topcoat inside of shell
4. right side up, topcoat outside of shell

Don't touch anything thereafter for 24 hours or more.

Use cut/bent coathanger wire to suspend the shell parts while painting.

TJ


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## MayanMan (Dec 12, 2012)

The cab is plastic, so it was not as shiny, so not as fun a picture.. 

But yes the cab and tinder (both plastic) came clean. I used rubbing alcohol on the cab and tinder and brake cleaner and a lot of scrubbing with my dremel on the body.

Thanks for the tips on painting. I'll have to get some paint and try to get it painted this weekend, or at least started.. It might be a few days in between coats.. I am heading to the McCormick-Stillman Railroad Park with my family, so this may be on hold for a little while.

http://www.therailroadpark.com/


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## ssgt (Jan 8, 2013)

I used oven cleaner to safely strip paint off of plastic models as well as hardware off of a rifle.spray it,put it in a ziplock bag,wait awhile,then rinse and scrub with an old toothbrush,repeat as necessary


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## MayanMan (Dec 12, 2012)

Got the final coat on the parts. Here are a few pics.




























Now just have to let it dry and put it all back together.


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