# Laying track temporarily to test wiring etc.



## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

Hi everyone.

I'm building a good size N scale layout. I'm at a point where I'm ready to start laying track. I'll have a couple reversing loops, and would like to lay the track temporarily in order to test all the turnouts, phase/polarity, etc. before I lay the track more permanently.

N Scale DCC
Atlas Flex Track Code 80
Peco Code 80 Turnouts.
I will be using AR modules to help with phase/polarity in the reverse loops.

I have the roadbed made of 2" foam board and have laid all the cork.

I'm looking for suggestions on how to lay the track just to test things, without gluing it down. I'd like to run trains for a week or so to be sure I don't have any wiring or other issues before I lay the track with an adhesive. 

The Atlas Flex track has built-in pin holes for track nails, and was thinking about using straight pins to hold the bent pieces of flex track in place. I realize I'll need to solder certain area in order to avoid kinks, but I also know that I'll need something to hold the track in position, and I'd rather not use an adhesive in case I need to pull a section up in order to fix a problem. Not sure if the cork/foam is strong enough to hold the track in place with just straight pins

What would you suggest?


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

Use a slab of drywall or plywood that's in good condition, and simply use small screws or brads, or the track nails if you have them, to hold your tracks in position with the correct geometry. Then, wire it up as you intend to, only with clamps to hold the bared wires against the rails, and be sure to use the correct turnouts. Then, allow for passage beyond the choke point of the reversing loop, if that's what it is, so that you can reverse and enter the turnout from the other direction and go around the loop. You won't need to do this for a week, though. If it works once, it is fine.

I have never done such a thing. To test locomotives pulling rolling stock on an incline, surely, and to test curves for rolling stock coupled, but not the electrical considerations. I figure them out logically, and then just wire it up per the plan. It should work if you haven't made a fundamental error.


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## Mixed Freight (Aug 31, 2019)

I have successfully used Arrow 1/2" staples (staple gun staples) to temporarily hold down N-scale track to cork & foam. For code 80 track, you should be fine putting them between the rails however often it takes to keep the track in position. They'll span a couple of ties, and you can put in line with the rail, or turn them at a slight angle, as needed to help hold the track down and in position. Or put them on the outside of the rails if need be. No big deal. When it's time to remove them, simply go down the line and yank them out with a pair of needle nose pliers.

Oh yeah, a tip for any Einstein's out there - separate and push the staples in by hand. Don't use a staple gun.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

I used dritz tidy pins and t pins which I found at hobby lobby, Jo Ann fabrics and possibly wal mart. Other name brands are similar.


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## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

I have 300 T-Pins that I used to secure the cork while the adhesive set overnight. I just figured that they would interfere with the train. I'll give those a try.

I'll be using the Peco PL10 switches to actuate the points on my turnouts, so I'd like to get all that installed (PL10's buried into the foam) and wired to test everything about the layout before actually gluing down the track.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

They might. I should say I am HO. But I believe these ideas remain applicable.

T pins off to the side of the rail depending on the outer rail side might be ok. I believe I even bent a few Ts over for space issues also.

That's one reason I went with the other tidy pins. Weird name but they are something like big staples made out of a pin. Once again I tended to go off to the side.

But care must be taken to not pop the rail out it's "nibs"...

Very easy to do with the micro engineering track I am using.

Staples mentioned above might be good as they are flat. I had trouble getting no wiggling and tried straight pins through the rail (had to drill a tiny hole using a Dremel), little brads, and so on... nothing was working good enough for me.

I may have considered the staples but couldn't find any quite long enough and just ran into the tidy pins and tried them.

With care the tidys worked somewhat better until I chalk/glued the track down. In fact every now and then I see one I missed and yank it out. But that's happening less frequently these days...


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

Double sided tape would be best, no worries about nails or pins being too high. If double sided cannot be found, simple masking tape made into loops and creased flat should work well enough. 
But keep an eye on it, it is temporary. It works for testing, but I wouldn’t set a loco & train going & walk away for 3 hours. Kato track would probably be fine, but relying on atlas type rail joiners on flex track, I’ve had them separate after an hour or two of continuous running.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

it's funny i tried the double sided tape but it created a bump and this proved problematic or maybe it came unstuck easily. i like these ideas but i never really quite found a better solution than just actually gluing it all down.. so whatever it is for the temporary basis, i'd say make temporary fairly short. 

i do think it's useful to do for cutting, assembling, basic continuity test, etc... but then you kinda take it all apart again to glue. yet you do know it worked before so it can work again -- and that's worth something.

(I believe this may be why some folks just go with the feeder wires per track section as a matter of course ... which I didn't do)


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

I never had them create a noticeable bump. Lateral force will weaken the tackiness & eventually unstick. Of course, I’ve only really done this in HO, not N so that may create a more noticeable bump.
Flat thumb tacks work for HO but I’d be nervous using them in N.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

I think maybe I had mine in temporary mode longer than is being considered, and was a problem. but it just took me a while to get to it once i put it all down, was satisfied had the continuity and so forth.


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## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

I'll try a short section with T-pins and see how it goes


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## kilowatt62 (Aug 18, 2019)

Good ole thumb tacks. Works on H0. Heads might be too wide for N though. I dunno.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

i like this idea if i could find any -- well i don't care now -- but if i could have found any with about 3/4" or maybe a few longer than this...


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

Severn said:


> it's funny i tried the double sided tape but it created a bump and this proved problematic or maybe it came unstuck easily. i like these ideas but i never really quite found a better solution than just actually gluing it all down.. so whatever it is for the temporary basis, i'd say make temporary fairly short.
> 
> i do think it's useful to do for cutting, assembling, basic continuity test, etc... but then you kinda take it all apart again to glue. yet you do know it worked before so it can work again -- and that's worth something.
> 
> (I believe this may be why some folks just go with the feeder wires per track section as a matter of course ... which I didn't do)


There are several different types of double-sided tape. Some are super aggressive and will be nearly impossible to remove from foam, without removing a lot of the foam with the tape. The same strong tapes would likely do severe damage to cork or foam roadbed. One type to avoid, for your purpose, is 3M mounting tape. I use this to instantly, and very permanently  mount PC ties to wood roadbed, when I make turnouts. This stuff is extremely strong, and very unforgiving. You get one shot at placing something, and its there forever. In fact, you might avoid 3M double sided tape of any kind as it is well made, has good permanent adhesive, and is not designed to be removeable. In fact, while its been done, I don't like any double-sided tape for track laying.

I think the straight pins, or T-pins, will work. You could also use small dots of latex caulk to hold down any stubborn spots. Caulked down track can be removed. Use a putty knife with a little WD-40 on it. Slide the putty knife under the end of the track and you can continue sliding it along under the track to remove it. If you use minimal caulk, the track should come up easily and fairly clean. A rag with WD-40 will remove any left over caulk from the track. A different rag, with alcohol on it, will remove the WD-40 residue, so you can glue/caulk the track down permanently later. 

Traction Fan 🙂


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

Lets try this from another angle: have enough confidence in your abilities to lay this track with the electrical wired in as you lay it.

As Meseneteria hinted at, just lay it and test it after it's ready to run. If you followed the rules it will run. This isn't like measure twice and cut once with lumber.

Double, and then triple check your electrical work as you go and just do it.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

Having done it once, should I do it again I might pursue this route. But even if I didn't I would do it all in one day or session say. Because what I did took weeks, well longer with little bits of time here and there... I think that's not the way if it can be avoided.


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## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

I was able to lay a section with a 12" radius 90 degree curve using regular old one-inch straight pins. I tried it with just rail joiners holding together 2 pieces of flex track, even with the unsoldered joint in the apex of the curve. The pins held it all very well. I used every pre-drilled hole in the flex track, and I had to pry the track up when I was satisfied that the straight pins would work.

I'm going to lay just enough to test the wyes and reverse loops. I really need piece of mind that I'm gapping the rails in the right places, and have the AR module working correctly.

This went so well that I have started to dig out the voids where the PL10 switches will be buried under the turnouts. I have done about 1/4 to 1/3 of the holes needed.

At this pace, I should be able to have the test track laid in a few weeks. I have about an hour or so each evening after I get home from the office and pay attention to other chores.

Thank you all for your advice.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

You'll do it. Just do something every night barring you know the unmovable impediment and it'll slowly add up! And on those nights when you have the time but not the interest or time is eclipsed ... Even a small thing can help. Anyway... end of pep talk!


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## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

Thanks! I'll make a lot of progress this weekend.


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

Straight pins or the staples will hold very good in cork roadbed 
I used staples on my HO layout with very good results.
Insert the staples against the outside of the rails and across two ties.
Very easy to make changes and will hold for as long as you need.
Some of my staples lasted more than a year.

Magic


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