# Kato to MTL conversion issues



## tman2005 (Sep 30, 2017)

Hi all.

I converted two of my trains to MTL couplers, using the ones MTL list on their conversion sheet. The issue I have is that the converted couplers are higher than the ones on my MTL freight cars. This has caused a new issue with the locos losing the cars intermittently when travelling around my layout. I do have one of the NMRA gauges on order.
Kato EMD NW2 #2403 - Replaced coupler with MTL 2004-1
Kato GE BNSF ES44AC "GEVO 2004-1

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


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## GNfan (Jun 3, 2016)

You might also want a Micro-trains coupler gauge.

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Micro-trains-N-1055-Coupler-Height-Gauge-p/mtl-98800031.htm


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Coupler shims and bolster washers*



tman2005 said:


> Hi all.
> 
> I converted two of my trains to MTL couplers, using the ones MTL list on their conversion sheet. The issue I have is that the converted couplers are higher than the ones on my MTL freight cars. This has caused a new issue with the locos losing the cars intermittently when travelling around my layout. I do have one of the NMRA gauges on order.
> Kato EMD NW2 #2403 - Replaced coupler with MTL 2004-1
> ...


tman2005;

First, it is important to have ONE standard height for all the couplers on every car & locomotive on the railroad. 
Second, Micro-Trains cars usually come with the couplers set to that company's standard height.
Third, using the Micro-Trains gage, or a Micro-trains car's coupler, depends on eyeball matching the height of a suspect car's coupler to the coupler mounted on the MTL gage/car. This will get things close, probably close enough to keep the cars coupled, but it is only as accurate as your eyesight. 
There are other ways of checking coupler height more accurately. I use an NMRA standards gage, through which I cut two slots. The top slot will allow a proper height coupler knuckle to pass through. If the knuckle is too high, or too low to pass through the slot; then the coupler height needs to be adjusted. The lower slot simply provides clearance for the coupler's trip pin to fit under the gage. 
The common way of adjusting height is to add thin plastic shims between the top of the coupler box, and the floor of the car. This will move a too high coupler down, If a coupler is too low, the normal solution is to add thin plastic washers to to the bolster. The bolster is the cross member, under the car, where the kingpin fastens the wheel/truck assembly to the car. This raises the entire car slightly, and the body-mounted couplers with it. MTL makes shims and washers for this purpose, or you can make your own. 
NOTE: Both these fixes only work with body-mounted couplers. They will not help with truck-mounted couplers. MTL trucks with MTL couplers mounted on them, will usually be correct right out of the package. If you have added MTL couplers to another brand of truck, then you may be able to correct small height errors by gently bending the arm that holds the coupler. For larger errors, it may be necessary to shim the coupler higher up on the arm.
Another way of matching coupler knuckle heights is to use MTL's "offset shank" couplers. They make couplers with the knuckle mounted extra high, and others with the knuckle mounted extra low. These help with situations like a body-mounted coupler on a flat car. Often the car is low enough that the coupler box has to be mounted very low. The offset shank coupler with the extra high knuckle can even things out.
By the way, unless you have tight curves (10" radius or smaller) I recommend using body-mounted couplers. They will help cars stay on the track when being pushed. It's also wise to use either all body-mounted, or all truck-mounted, couplers. Mixing the two types can cause derailments.

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:

These photos show how the notched NMRA gage is used.


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## tman2005 (Sep 30, 2017)

Many thanks for the great information and advice


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