# Lionel Liquid Smoke, Smoke Fluid, Etc.



## RealJeep

Hi all. One quick question; What is Lionel Liquid Smoke? I searched the forums and couldn't find an answer. Could it be vegetable oil or some synthetic compound? Could it possibly be made at home?

Thanks!
Otto
Lakeland, FL


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## gunrunnerjohn

Try this: http://www.ehow.com/how_7671896_make-smoke-oil-model-trains.html

Or here: http://www.bigclive.com/smoke.htm

Google is your friend.


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## RealJeep

Thanks for the info and I'll give it a try as soon as I can get some Glycol.


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## gunrunnerjohn

That's _*glycerin*_ and NOT *Glycol*!


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## RealJeep

The web site that you sent me said Gylcerin is Glycol

"For the sake of this article I'll be referring to glycerine as glycerol which is it's chemical name, or glycol which is the generic chemical family that glycerine belongs to."


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## gunrunnerjohn

Interesting, I never realized they were the same thing. Of course, finding pure Glycol is probably tricky, it's usually mixed with other stuff.


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## Big Ed

RealJeep said:


> Hi all. One quick question; What is Lionel Liquid Smoke? I searched the forums and couldn't find an answer. Could it be vegetable oil or some synthetic compound? Could it possibly be made at home?
> 
> Thanks!
> Otto
> Lakeland, FL





RealJeep said:


> The web site that you sent me said Gylcerin is Glycol
> 
> "For the sake of this article I'll be referring to glycerine as glycerol which is it's chemical name, or glycol which is the generic chemical family that glycerine belongs to."






There are a bunch of different glycols.
Some that come to mind.

Propylene glycol
Di ethylene glycol
triethylene glycol
ethylene glycol
hexylene glycol 
bio glycol 
solor glycol
Geo glycol

They say triethylene glycol is the glycol to use.

How much smoke fluid do you use?


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## gunrunnerjohn

I think I'd just buy some, it's not that expensive, and one bottle goes a long ways.


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## vladio

Interesting that one of the link pages suggests the chemical used in smoke fluid is also used in food processing. Everyone seems to believe that all smoke is toxic.


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## gunrunnerjohn

Well, when you burn a lot of non-toxic materials, they become toxic.  FWIW, I can't imagine that it's toxic, it would never be allowed in the home for that use.


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## tjcruiser

"Tastes like chicken ..."


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## NIMT

Tobacco plants won't kill you till you smoke them,
Corn won't give you a buzz till you distill it,
And Big Ed can deliver you enough triethylene glycol that you can smoke out all your neighbors.
Besides that, I'm sure he would enjoy a run down to sunny Florida!


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## Big Ed

vladio said:


> Interesting that one of the link pages suggests the chemical used in smoke fluid is also used in food processing. Everyone seems to believe that all smoke is toxic.



A lot of Propylene glycol goes into food products.
A lot of Glycerin too.

More goes into soaps and shampoos and a lot of other products.

Back before they had dedicated food grade equipment I use to haul poison out to Chicago, get cleaned out and bring back corn oil that went into tomato sauce or to the cranberry juice plants. 
Even though I got cleaned out just how clean was it?

One plant I delivered Propylene glycol to that went into food products the guy who sampled it use to drink it just like someone who drinks wine.

Shake the cup around, smell it, take a small sip and roll it around in his mouth then swallow it and finish the rest.

That was before food grade trailers. Now if you haul food grade it has to be dedicated to food grade products.
Same for reefer trailers, they used to bring swinging beef east then take back a load of drums west. Caustic,poison, chlorinated and Lord knows what else. A lot did not bother cleaning them before their next load of meat coming east.

Read the ingredients in your food products and soaps and shampoos.
You will be surprised at what is in them.

Though you might not know what the chemicals are.
I know. Since I have been into chemicals for a long time.

I try not to think about what I am using and try to stay away from reading the ingredients.

Some products and foods I just don't use.


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## zajacjj

*Propylene Glycol USP grade*

When purchasing propylene glycol for trains. Make sure to purchase USP grade, not Technical grade. Even if the USP Proylene Glycol has been packaged into smaller containers that is fine. USP means it designated safe for food additive use and medical applications. So if someone drinks it or if your pets drink it, it wont kill them.  A good safe source to purchase it at is a new site PropyleneGlycolUSP.com. You can order it directly online.


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## gunrunnerjohn

Hmm... we have a spammer.


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## tjcruiser

I don't think so here ... benefit of the doubt granted. Useful glycol info.

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn

First post an ad for a product is now spam? OK, your call.


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## vladio

And definitely not nitroglycerin!


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## zajacjj

*Propylene Glycol USP grade*

My name is Joe Zajac. I own the company that sells Propylene Glycol USP. I get calls daily with people asking me questions about Propylene Glycol. My goal is obviously to make money, I have to make a profit to keep people employed, but I also have an obligation to get the word out to as many people on what products they need to use and why.

You would be surprised the number of calls from doctors we get inquiring us about a person that drank propylene glycol and they are in the hospital. So I ask them the same question, what type did they drink? You will die if you drink the wrong glycol. Glycol has thousands of applications.

I also get the same questions from people that purchase trains where they are concerned about which glycol to use. 

So I subscribe to google alerts and when I see the same question being asked I try to subscribe to the blog to get the word out.

If anyone has questions, about glycol. You know how to reach me. Just go to that website and ask for me direct.


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## tjcruiser

Hi Joe,

I think that's pretty noble of you to keep your ears open. Thanks for sharing some helpful info here.

TJ


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## Big Ed

zajacjj said:


> When purchasing propylene glycol for trains. Make sure to purchase USP grade, not Technical grade. Even if the USP Proylene Glycol has been packaged into smaller containers that is fine. USP means it designated safe for food additive use and medical applications. So if someone drinks it or if your pets drink it, it wont kill them.  A good safe source to purchase it at is a new site PropyleneGlycolUSP.com. You can order it directly online.





tjcruiser said:


> I don't think so here ... benefit of the doubt granted. Useful glycol info.
> 
> TJ





zajacjj said:


> My name is Joe Zajac. I own the company that sells Propylene Glycol USP. I get calls daily with people asking me questions about Propylene Glycol. My goal is obviously to make money, I have to make a profit to keep people employed, but I also have an obligation to get the word out to as many people on what products they need to use and why.
> 
> You would be surprised the number of calls from doctors we get inquiring us about a person that drank propylene glycol and they are in the hospital. So I ask them the same question, what type did they drink? You will die if you drink the wrong glycol. Glycol has thousands of applications.
> 
> I also get the same questions from people that purchase trains where they are concerned about which glycol to use.
> 
> So I subscribe to google alerts and when I see the same question being asked I try to subscribe to the blog to get the word out.
> 
> If anyone has questions, about glycol. You know how to reach me. Just go to that website and ask for me direct.





tjcruiser said:


> Hi Joe,
> 
> I think that's pretty noble of you to keep your ears open. Thanks for sharing some helpful info here.
> 
> TJ




HMmm I just saw this while searching for Liquid smoke units for a new guy asking.

I haul both USP and Industrial Propylene Glycol THEY LOAD OUT OF THE SAME TANK.

The only difference in the USP Propylene Glycol is the vessel that you use to haul it, USP has to be dedicated food grade equipment. And goes through a thorough inspection/testing prior and before unloading at the stop. It also is suppose to go through a hotter wash. 
Kosher has different standards.

But...it comes out of the same pipe/tank when you load it. USP & Industrial.

Industrial propylene glycol could be hauled in a tank that has hauled chemicals, even though it was cleaned out how clean is clean? And if the industrial grade gets a little soap from the prior load it is not going to kill no one as Industrial grade doesn't get used for USP products.
USP propylene glycol goes into a lot of products people use, shampoos, soaps, perfume etc. Anything that will touch the body will be food grade.

The new type of environmentally friendly anti-freeze is propylene glycol, though not food grade.

But he is right, Propylene goes into a lot of food products. 

And there are a whole bunch of different glycol all which might kill you if you drink them.

The reason they started food grade dedicated equipment is because that you could haul a load of poison out to the Midwest, then get cleaned out and haul a load of corn syrup back as a return load. They changed the laws back sometime in the 70's. I used to do it! I didn't think it was too safe. I used to bring back corn syrup for the cranberry and tomato sauce plants here in Jersey. That was after hauling a load of Phenol out west, a very bad poison!

The trucks used to haul swinging beef to the east coast in box trailers, then pickup a load of hazardous/toxic waste drums for burying/burning out in the west. 
They would skip the cleaning part before coming back east with another load of swinging beef.
Some of that waste was VERY TOXIC!

People got sick, they then changed the laws.

You don't want to get caught hauling USP/Food grade in anything but a food grade dedicated tanker.


edit, I should have read through the post I already said most of this.:laugh:


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## sschullery

A glycol is a molecule that has two hydroxyl groups (-OH) attached to two different carbon atoms. "diol" would be a more correct term.

Glycerine (aka glycerin or glycerol) is not a glycol; it has three hydroxyl groups, i.e, a triol.

The golden rule of toxicology is that "The dose makes the poison." i.e., EVERYTHING (even distilled water) is toxic in high enough dose. The most common glycol is the two-carbon ethylene glycol, used in permanent antifreeze; three-carbon analog, propylene glycol is used in the less toxic antifreeze. I have no idea what's in smoke fluid. I do know that inhalation toxicity can be quite different than ingestion or contact--no simple answers.

Steve


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## gunrunnerjohn

Nothing is ever "simple", there are always wrinkles.


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## plandis

OK so what is the recomended smoke fluid everone is using again?


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## Big Mike

plandis said:


> OK so what is the recomended smoke fluid everone is using again?


Lionel super smoke or MTH proto smoke, just go buy you some ,its so much easier that way  .............mike


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## plandis

Big Mike said:


> Lionel super smoke or MTH proto smoke, just go buy you some ,its so much easier that way  .............mike


Thats what I was thinking!!


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## gunrunnerjohn

I just got a bunch of JT Mega-Steam NADA smoke fluid. It has no odor and was created for folks that were having problems with standard smoke fluid. Seems to smoke as good as the other flavors, just no smell to speak of.

I haven't found that any of the fluids do a whole lot better than others, I've tried Lionel, Lionel "Premium", MTH Proto Smoke, and JT Mega-Steam in various flavors.


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## plandis

Thats what I was thinking. I've tried a few different types. they all seem to work ok.


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## Kwikster

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I just got a bunch of JT Mega-Steam NADA smoke fluid. It has no odor and was created for folks that were having problems with standard smoke fluid. Seems to smoke as good as the other flavors, just no smell to speak of.
> 
> I haven't found that any of the fluids do a whole lot better than others, I've tried Lionel, Lionel "Premium", MTH Proto Smoke, and JT Mega-Steam in various flavors.


Thinking about springing for some JT mega steam in "Coal-Fired Steamer" once I can open the windows :thumbsup:


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## gunrunnerjohn

I have that one too, as well as the oil fired, ceder, and a couple of Christmas scents.


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## Big Mike

Kwikster said:


> Thinking about springing for some JT mega steam in "Coal-Fired Steamer" once I can open the windows :thumbsup:


yea ,I messed up and tried that one , man does it stink ! it went into the garbage.

now I know all the EPA guys are gunna stand up and yell ,but I put a few drops of "3 in 1" oil into a MTH SD-90 once at the hobby shop,I evacuated the intire building ,people could not run out fast enough I LMAO! 

I would use it in my engines but two questions come to mine

1. what harm to the smoke unit ?

2.how toxic is the smoke? 

it is almost worth wearing a fresh air mask just to have that much smoke,it looked like the diesel blow a turbo.............mike


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## Dave Sams

Big Mike said:


> yea ,I messed up and tried that one , man does it stink ! it went into the garbage.
> 
> now I know all the EPA guys are gunna stand up and yell ,but I put a few drops of "3 in 1" oil into a MTH SD-90 once at the hobby shop,I evacuated the intire building ,people could not run out fast enough I LMAO!
> 
> 
> it is almost worth wearing a fresh air mask just to have that much smoke,it looked like the diesel blow a turbo.............mike



Do it again Mikey, but have the camcorder going this time.


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## Big Mike

Dave Sams said:


> Do it again Mikey, but have the camcorder going this time.



Hey! thats a good idea,as soon as I get my track / layout back up and running [been working hard on the building it self] I will steal,uh..borrow my daughters new high dollar outfit and do some vids.that way you guys can see a model loco with a blowen turbo, and the progess I made on my layout..................mike


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## Handyandy

I've been using Mega Steam frying bacon scent. Mmm mmm good! Smells good enough to eat. In fact, the first time I tried it our tomcat was asleep beside the layout on his train watching nest. After a bit the bacon scent was smelling really good. He poked his head up, his nose was just a twitching. I though OH NO he's gonna jump on the layout!, but he didn't. Instead he took of like a scalded cat for the kitchen and started meowing for a piece of bacon!!


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## gunrunnerjohn

I haven't tried those flavors, I don't need to tempt my self with such scents!


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## Trainmaster

*Smoke Fluid, etc.*

Big Ed, Gun Runner John, Zach, anyone experienced with liquid smoke:

The 783 (#8406 catalog number) 1950 re-issue of the scale Hudson of mine quit smoking again. I took the entire locomotive and smoke unit apart. The whole area (except E-Unit and motor) were saturated with fluid! I cleaned the fluid, tested the resistor with a VOM and current passed through. 

I dried up all the smoke fluid. Should I wait a few days, try a little fluid and see if it smokes, or has the unit burned out? Unlike a majority of liquid unit smoke units, this one is made of metal. 

Is it possible to convert the locmotive to a pellet smoke unit? The current liquid smoke unit mounts the same way? I have had more trouble with liquid, due to back luck and ignorance. I wished someone wrote a book on it.
I have studies the links all of you have provided. What is the worst that can happen if too much Lionel smoke fluid is added?

Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks

Trainmaster


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## [email protected]

Hello chatty new guys. There are complete threads on all of these great questions. Get in there and explordicate...and always bring your camera. I saw a train on a truck today and he got away before I could load and aim the gear.


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## Big Mike

yea, I,am fat enough,I really don't need any food smelling train smoke,I might start nawing on a box car or something LMAO !!:laugh:


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## eljefe

Big Mike said:


> I really don't need any food smelling train smoke,I might start nawing on a box car or something LMAO !!:laugh:


Make sure to have the camcorder going for that too!


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## Kwikster

At least they haven't come out with a "flatulence" scent yet.


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## Big Mike

Kwikster said:


> At least they haven't come out with a "flatulence" scent yet.


I would buy some of that one, that way I could blame it on the train LOL :laugh:


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## Handyandy

Kwikster said:


> At least they haven't come out with a "flatulence" scent yet.


If they did I'd find a way to run a smoke unit by itself at work and let the scent waft over the cubicles! 

Come to think of it, bacon scent would be fun to do that with too!


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## gunrunnerjohn

Normally, adding too much smoke fluid makes a mess inside the locomotive. For steamers with a puffer smoke unit, you don't want to add more than 8-10 drops total to a fresh unit. Too much smoke fluid doesn't normally burn up the smoke resistor, it just won't allow it to heat enough to produce smoke. 

If the wick in the smoke unit is still in good condition, I'd say it'll probably be fine after you sop up all the excess and try it again.

Here's a video from Lionel that discusses liquid smoke units in general and some fixes and techniques to get the most out of them.


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## tjcruiser

[email protected] said:


> Get in there and *explordicate*...


Love it! :thumbsup:


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## Trainmaster

*Lionel liquid smoke terms*

TJ Cruiser, Gun Runner John, Bid Ed, and all Liquid Smoke Experts:

Thank you for sending me the video. I watched it and hoped I could record it, but it is blocked. I can transcribe the dialog due to closed captioning, which I will do. I want to get my hands on *anything* about liquid smoke.

First, a few term questions? 

What is a "wick?" Is it the bottom of the smoke unit, or the wrap-around the resistor part?

BEFORE I watched the video, I did make the mistake of adding smoke, and the Hudson did stop smoking. Now, I know why. I took the unit apart, and there was a lot of liquid. I cleaned it up. Unlike most Lionel smoke units, this one is die-cast, from 1986. The video suggested I use a bottle with a needle to get in there past the resistor - does anyone know where I can find one?

It has been two days since I ran the locomotive. It should have cooled down by now. I did not add smoke - just ran it - it did not smoke. I did not run it for more than five (5) minutes. I hope I didn't do any damage to it. I ran it by itself with tender.

Any help would be appreciated. Fortunately, I only have two locomotives with liquid smoke. Does anyone know if any books are written dealing with liquid smoke units? There are a number dedicated to the pellet type.

Thanks for replying....

Trainmaster


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## gunrunnerjohn

The "wick" is the fiberglass batting inside the smoke unit. As far as the sleeve around the smoke resistor, that's the first thing I cut off, those are useless and cause more problems than they solve!

I use the insides of Tiki torch wicks for my smoke units. Same stuff as Lionel and MTH sell you in little hanks, but you get a bunch of it with the big Tiki torches.  There really isn't much to the puffer units, hardly worth writing a book about them.


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## Trainmaster

*Liquid smoke units for dummies? A book?*

They should write a book, like the above. There may not be much of it to those of you who grew up on liquid smoke, but it is a headache to me....

What is batting? I heard that word in the video. Would someone please explain.

As far as Tiki Torch wicks, I have plenty of them. Are you saying I should tear the cover off the resistor, and maybe place a little bit of the Tiki Torch material in the smoke unit?

Anything that is suggested would be helpful and appreciated.

Trainmaster


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## Trainmaster

*Lionel smoke fluid video*

Gun Runner John:

I have watched the Lionel Smoke Unit Video on You-Tube that you sent the link for.

I have tried to copy the "lecture" with Wondershare, but this is the first video that was blocked from copying by Lionel Customer Service; in fact, all their videos are blocked from copying.

Since, I am partially deaf, and the persentor does not speak directly into the microphone, it is difficult for me to hear him; so, I am transcribing the entire presentation, using both audio and captioning (although the captions are terrible!) and working hard to make out what he says. There are terms used in this presentation, that I may post questions about after I get it done.

He mentioned 4 types of smoke units: The Bowl, (used in burning switch towers, hobo hotels, etc), (2) the Slethe, a German brand, (3)the mechanical type with a cam and bellows and, (4) a fan-driven one.

From what he is describing, it is the 3rd, or mechanical type that I have. The smoking units in the 783 re-issue of the Post-war Hudson and GS-4 Daylight look similar and operate just like the post-war pellet type with cam and bellows, so I assume that is it? *If anyone has these locomotives, please clarify.*

The fluid sits in the batting - what is the batting? A piece of wick? There is where I begin to get confused.

I stopped for the night, as I have a very bad back and cannot sit at the computer for more than 15 minutes. Although I have arthritis in the hands, having been a professional organist, my fingers can fly, so I key much faster than many people - a good thing, since it hurts if I take too long.

I would appreciate the answers to: Is the mechanical type the liquid smoke unit I have, and what is batting - where pieces of wick are kept to retain the fluid?

Finally, it was recommended to cut the strip that protects the resistor - will that ruin the resistor?

Moderators, if you want to move all these liquid smoking questions to the proper place, feel free to do so - just send me a PM as to where they are.
Thanks everyone for your help. This language (wicks, batting, are some terms I do not understand, having spent so many years on pellets. Eventually, I will get this liquid down. Like I said, I only have two liquid smoke locomotives to deal with, but two is enough! I need all the help I can get!

Again, I so very much appreciate your help!

Trainmaster


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## Trainmaster

*Lionel liquid smoke terms*

Hello everyone:

Someone was nice enough to start a thread for my Lionel Liquid smoke questions. I have read this thread, and it is more like a course in chemistry, which I am not good at. I have some basic questions, I hope some of you will answer. If any of you have or have worked with the Fundimentions 8307 GS-4 Daylight locomotive or the reissue of the 1950 Hudson, #783, I especially would like to hear from you, and your experience with the smoke units....

Here is the post from the liquid smoke thread created for me:

Lionel smoke fluid video 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Gun Runner John and others:

I have watched the Lionel Smoke Unit Video on You-Tube that you sent the link for.

I have tried to copy the "lecture" with Wondershare, but this is the first video that was blocked from copying by Lionel Customer Service; in fact, all their videos are blocked from copying.

Since, I am partially deaf, and the persentor does not speak directly into the microphone, it is difficult for me to hear him; so, I am transcribing the entire presentation, using both audio and captioning (although the captions are terrible!) and working hard to make out what he says. There are terms used in this presentation, that I may post questions about after I get it done.

He mentioned 4 types of smoke units: The Bowl, (used in burning switch towers, hobo hotels, etc), (2) the Slethe, a German brand, *(3)the mechanical type with a cam *and bellows and, (4) a fan-driven one.

From what he is describing, it is the 3rd, or mechanical type that I have. The smoking units in the 783 re-issue of the Post-war Hudson and GS-4 Daylight look similar and operate just like the post-war pellet type with cam and bellows, so I assume that is it? If anyone has these locomotives, please clarify.

The fluid sits in the batting - what is the batting? A piece of wick? There is where I begin to get confused. What is a wick made of? (Remember, the pellet smoke units have none of these).

I stopped for the night, as I have a very bad back and cannot sit at the computer for more than 15 minutes. Although I have arthritis in the hands, having been a professional organist, my fingers can fly, so I key much faster than many people - a good thing, since it hurts if I take too long.

I would appreciate the answers to: Is the mechanical type the liquid smoke unit I have, and what is batting - where pieces of wick are kept to retain the fluid?

Finally, it was recommended to cut the strip that protects the resistor - will that ruin the resistor?

This language (wicks, batting, are some terms I do not understand, having spent so many years on pellets. Eventually, I will get this liquid down. Like I said, I only have two liquid smoke locomotives to deal with, but two is enough! I need all the help I can get!

Again, I so very much appreciate your help!

MODS: Thanks for moving my smokin' (pardon the pun) questions to where they belong. I really appreciate it.

Trainmaster


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## rrbill

TJ-, "Explordicate" I believe you've been watching/listening to Bo Dietl on television. He's expandinizing the English language.


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## gunrunnerjohn

You do indeed have the mechanical "puffer" smoke unit from the description. 

The "batting" is just some fiberglass strands that fill the bowl. You can buy it from Lionel, but personally I use Tiki torch material, much cheaper and the same stuff. 

Cutting off the sleeve if done properly will not damage the resistor. You want to use something like an X-acto knife and cut away from the resistor to just cut off the sleeve. That's the first thing I do to any smoke unit, that sleeve was one of the stupidest ideas that Lionel ever had!

You may have to unsolder the ground connection to remove the top of the smoke unit to get to the chamber, although some locomotives have enough slack in the wires to just take the top off without unsoldering.


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## Trainmaster

*Resistors - used for lionel smoke units*

Does anyone know if the resistors used in the smoke units were 
custom-made for Lionel or does anyone have information of the correct resistor to obtain at an electronics stores.

I am aware Lionel parts stores sell the resistors for the smoke units, but at a very high price. Maybe they are custom-made.

I would appreciate a clarification on this

Also, Gun Runner John....the fiberglass used by Lionel is their way of using a "wick." I am understanding that correct?

Thanks for all your help. I am getting this information down very slowly.

Trainmaster


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## tjcruiser

Abner,

We're always happy to direct (or redirect) quesitons and posts to the appropriate place. Here to help!

I'll defer to other guys more experienced with modern equipment to answer your questions. My knowledge-base is stuck in circa 1958 limbo!

I see no responsed as of yet (about a day after you posted), so consider my comment here a "bump" to bring this thread back to the top of the "new stuff" list.

Cheers,

TJ


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## plandis

that makes sense TJ!


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## Trainmaster

Thanks, T.J.

It sounds like you and I are in the same "boat" or "heating element!"

I am used to smoke pellets - NEVER had trouble with them! Since 1985, these liquid smoke units are a headache, and replacing one unit after another proves I doing something wrong. 

I appreciate your help in getting "liquid" (notice I didn't say "liquor") experienced modelers to help.

Trainmaster


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## gunrunnerjohn

TJ, there are multiple threads on the same topic going, I've responded in the other one. Perhaps merging the common posts would help keep this topic straight?

The other thread: http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=12080


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## gunrunnerjohn

The smoke resistors are wirewound resistors of the correct size and value. Model trains have used various values over the years and models, they range anywhere from 27 ohms to 8 ohms, depending on which smoke unit and what manufacturer you're talking about. If you have a specific application, you can usually buy the proper resistor from one of the many parts guys like The Train Tender for more reasonable prices than Lionel, and the shipping will be a lot less as well.

The fiberglass is the "wick" for the smoke unit. It should fill the chamber, but not block the intake ports, and be firmly in contact with the smoke resistor.


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## tjcruiser

gunrunnerjohn said:


> TJ, there are multiple threads on the same topic going, I've responded in the other one. Perhaps merging the common posts would help keep this topic straight?
> 
> The other thread: http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=12080


Good call, John. I've merged two threads into one, here.

Thanks,

TJ


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## Trainmaster

Thanks for the help, John.

I think it would be a great idea to have one "thread" for all topics about 
Lionel smoke. Merging all the threads together is a fine idea!

Trainmaster


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## gunrunnerjohn

Let us know when you smoke everyone out of the house.


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## Trainmaster

*Smoke*

Thanks, Gun Runner John:

I contacted that model train source you mentioned. He has the smoke units for the GS-4 Daylight at a far cheaper price, but I am trying to get him to understand what the (catalog 8406) 783 Scale Hudson uses. It has a die-cast smoke unit, not a plastic one, and it is not at all close to resemblence to that of the 773 pellet type.

Speaking of pellets, they do a good job of smoking up the place - and I can repair those. It is the liquid I need to learn about.....

I appreciate all your help. I am slowly getting the idea of how the liquid 
smoke units work. Let's see if I have it correctly: the smoke fluid is applied...goes down into the batting - the heat from the resistor makes the fluid rise and turn to vapor and the air and piston gets them out of the stack
with the "puffing" effect. How am I doing?

Now, just to figure out the repair part.....

Trainmaster


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