# Do's and Don'ts......



## dozer (Jan 2, 2010)

Ok so everyone getting to read my complaining about learning how to build a layout can tell it get's a little frustrating, so I was thinking maybe to go along with the How To's section we could add a Do's and Don'ts section. 

what do you all think?

1st. Make sure you don't have flex track joints in the middle of a curve. Use a whole piece of flex thru the curve so there is no end joints trying to create "angles" in the middle of the curve. 

2nd. Make sure your layout permits easily reaching ALL the track once finished. Otherwise like me you'll be cursing just trying to clean the track. 

3rd. Layout your track and run the trains and get the bugs worked out BEFORE you lay down ballast and terrain (grass, dirt etc...). Makes repairs a whole ton easier, trust me!


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## tankist (Jun 11, 2009)

in that case i'm nominating you to be in charge of taking the notes. take suggestions that you like and consolidate them into your first post in quoted Do's and Don't sections. perhaps we could get it to be good enough for a sticky material.

i'll start -DO:
do take time to plan things out before you start.
do look at your local craiglist before going to home depot for material 

Don't:
Do not buy stuff on an impulse 


or is there more specific ares you'd like to be coveresd


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## dozer (Jan 2, 2010)

tankist said:


> in that case i'm nominating you to be in charge of taking the notes. take suggestions that you like and consolidate them into your first post in quoted Do's and Don't sections. perhaps we could get it to be good enough for a sticky material.
> 
> i'll start -DO:
> do take time to plan things out before you start.
> ...


 No, this is perfect!


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

I'd go with:

1. Do spend time reading all the threads here on building a layout. There's a wealth of information here on it. 
2. Do talk to people about your plans: it can save you from costly mistakes.
3. Do post some sort of pic of your proposed layout, ask people to pick it apart, and accept their advice with good grace. Remember their intent is not to criticize you: it's to help you identify design flaws before you have to unbuild to solve them.

One more....DO NOT work on it when you're tired or frustrated. Wait till it's fun, again.


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## dozer (Jan 2, 2010)

tankist said:


> i don't agree. i soldered rails while staggering the seam about 6-10 ties. polished and got "continuously welded rail"
> i don't have close-up pic anymore but the seam is at the apex of the curve and almost undetectable
> 
> I can agree with your disagreement. It makes an obvious point that some people are very detail oriented, however if the rails were NOT staggered it could lead to a potential problem. I will say I like your idea and will implement it in my next attempt. thanks!


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

I am considering putting down the flat pink sheets and painting them a neutral color before starting to either lay track or terrain. My premise was that it's a lot easier to work up a layout with a bedrock-gray background than a pink one. Your thoughts on this?

And finally...I would appreciate input from anyone on what type of paints work best on the pink foam sheets and on Great Stuff canned foam. I have a mountain ridge to build and will probably use a combination of plaster, pink foam sheets, and the canned foam to do it all.

Thanks, everyone!


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## dozer (Jan 2, 2010)

I painted the pink foam on my layout first before laying any dirt or gras etc. down, I felt it gave a much better depth. I use cheap acrylic paint from the craft store. Works perfect, and I used it in my airbrush to do the sky background and for my mountain. The canned foam is awesome, and is pretty easy to work with. Just make sure you get the good stuff that dries hard, it's much easier to shape in my opinion.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Reck -- acrylic or latex paint on the pink stuff foam. Most oil-based paints will eat into the foam a bit. Latex caulk works nice to fill in / smooth off any small seams or gaps, prior to paint. A wet finger (or rag) run along the caulk creates a nice fillet.

Anton -- nice seamless flex curve transitions. Precise detailing there!

For do's and don'ts ... things from my perspective ...

DO:

1. Create a layout plan first (obvious).

2. If possible, transfer the plan full scale to poster-board paper, and use it to mock-up your layout. In my case, I cut out the full-scale plan sequentially, using the cutouts to make traceable templates for the track curves, the town roads, building placement, etc.

3. Layout track runs, inclines, crossing, switches TEMPORARILY (as much as possible), and run a few trains around to check for glitchy problems: clearances, incline slope, turn radius, etc.

4. I used the Woodland Scenics shaky-powder "grass" a lot in my simple layout. Lessons here: Paint the underlying base green, first. Use Elmer's white glue mixed 50/50 with water and a few drops of alcohol (to cut surface tension) as the glue for the grass. Tape off non-grass areas as needed.

5. For mountain tunnels, make sure you design with some access to the track inside, in case a train/cars get stuck ... back window, removable top, etc.

6. Use hot glue to tack-and-hold things as needed. It's not very strong, but it'll offer quick grab while a (second) adhesive sets up.

DONT:

1. Get too frustrated with mistakes ... They're bound to happen, as noted by others above. It's part of the game.

2. Back yourself and your layout into a corner ... make sure you have adequate arm's-length reach to all parts of your layout.

3. Expect that the layout will be "finished" in the near time. You'll likely reach an "up and running" point, but most layouts are never really done ... it's fun to tweak things here and there down the road.

Cheers,

TJ


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

Thanks for the input. I'll plan on some grass-green latex for the foam. TJ, that latex-caulk suggestion will conceal my seams, so thank you. Dozer, I'm air-brush deprived, but I can roller-paint the pink sheets and knock it out in no time. I wasn't aware the Geat-Foam had different degrees of hardness, so thanks for pointing that out!


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## dozer (Jan 2, 2010)

Tj, excellent!


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## dozer (Jan 2, 2010)

Reckers said:


> Thanks for the input. I'll plan on some grass-green latex for the foam. TJ, that latex-caulk suggestion will conceal my seams, so thank you. Dozer, I'm air-brush deprived, but I can roller-paint the pink sheets and knock it out in no time. I wasn't aware the Geat-Foam had different degrees of hardness, so thanks for pointing that out!


 Just to clarify, I used several different widths of paintbrushes to paint the latex paint onto the foam then laid sand or grass over it. I used the airbrush on the mountain and the background only, then "painted" on white glue diluted with water and dishsoap to get the trees and moss to stick on the mountain then airbrushed the same glue mixture over the top of all of it again. Liquid Nails for the caulk gun is what I used to seal the gaps and glue down the pink sheets to the plywood. 

Good Luck!


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## MacDaddy55 (Aug 19, 2008)

*Flat or Semi-Gloss?*

Hey Reck and Guys,
I found a combo of flat brown around the rail/roadbed area and semi-gloss for coverage(Sprinkle whatever stone and turf while wet is outstanding. Yeah oil based sprays and paints are a definite NONO.....instant pudding!:laugh: Still can't find my camera but when I do I'll post photos of what I did on "My Layout" Hey Tank.....nice track job:thumbsup:!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

MacD,

That's a great point about sprinkling "grass" and the like directly into wet paint. I didn't go that route, but I think those who do are quite happy with the results.

Accordingly, to Reck and others ...

When it come to the application of ground cover, I suggest you get a scrap plank and lay on several test-samples of different ways to apply gound cover. Painted / unpainted base wood, glue for adhesion, paint for adhesion, etc. Let all dry, shake off the excess, and see which method suits your fancy and needs best. (Better to try it on scrap, rather than on your real layout.)

TJ


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

TJ, Mac and Dozer...thanks for all the good advice. It's taken to heart!


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## Rocky Mountian (May 17, 2010)

What should I use to clean the plastic drive gear on the drive trucks and motor shafts. I was thinking alcohol?

Mike


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I'd give Goo-Gone on a Q-tip a shot. Alcohol is probably fine, but ya' gotta be careful with alcohol and some plastics.

The Goo-Gone is citrus-based and a bit milder, though still a good cleaner for grease, sticky stuff, etc.

My 2-cents ...

TJ


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