# Newbie questions about Lionel track



## DJTrains (Oct 8, 2008)

Greetings.

I have a couple newbie questions in regard to the size of Lionel 0 and 027 track.

1. Can I mix the two tracks for a 027 train layout?

2. Should I only buy track stamped Lionel?

Thanks,

Dale


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## Boston&Maine (Dec 19, 2007)

Yes, you can use O and O27 tubular track on the same layout... The O track is taller than the O27 track due to the metal "ties" being thicker, so you will need to add some shims under the O27 track where you switch the track type...

http://www.lionel.com/gettingStarted/Guides/AboutGuage.cfm

Just beware that not all locomotives can run on O27 track... Like on the steamer you recently purchased, if you look underneath the locomotive it should say either O or O27 between the two pick-up plates/rollers...


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## DJTrains (Oct 8, 2008)

Thanks much!

Dale


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

With your recent purchases you are better off with O. Especially when you get into switches. You probably don't want to torture your Hudson on 027 curves. LOL


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## DJTrains (Oct 8, 2008)

So the ties are thicker on the 0 and the rails themselves are deeper than they are on the 027?


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## Boston&Maine (Dec 19, 2007)

DJTrains said:


> So the ties are thicker on the 0 and the rails themselves are deeper than they are on the 027?


Yes they are...


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Stay on Track*

Here's the proof. O is 9/16th of an inch high. O27 is 5/16ths. I used a 1/8th foam board to level it out.
Yes they do have different size connecting pins. If I remember comparable to a size 6 and 8 finish penny nails



















If the other stuff works use it if you have it. THE 2056 will run on O27 track.


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## DJTrains (Oct 8, 2008)

That's awesome T-Man:thumbsup:

And too I really really like how you leave your tracks uncleaned and rusty. I can't figure out why model people shine up their tracks to look like silver.

I purposely am looking for rusty tracks. I just go over them with 0000 steelwool to get the sections to match and I'm making just the center rail shinny on top for electrical pickup.

I've even though about painting the rails to match real rails and then shine the face of that center rail. Anybody do this now?

At any rate I love the imperfect look because it's like real life.

But back to the subject--what pins did you use T-Man to connect the 0 to the 027 track?

Oh, and I just checked, my 52 Hudson has wheels for 027 track.

Dale


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

In the mockup I used the O27 pins. They will be loose and will need to be crimped for a good connection. The O pins may be too big for the O27. You could try maybe they will split enough to fit. Solder solves all. Glad the pictures could help. I must confess I only have O27 track in use now.


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## DJTrains (Oct 8, 2008)

I've got track coming to me from all over the world now :laugh:

Well almost!

I got about (60) 0 and maybe (100) 027 track from lots I bought off the bay.

Maybe I'll just save the 0 track for when I win the bid on a pre-war Hudson for like $50 :laugh: :thumbsup: 

Huh! with my luck it would read "Made in China" on the bottom. :laugh:

I did my 1st major overhaul today. I won the bid on a 6110 but when I got it it was missing those rear wheels (a minor oversight).

I took the wheels off a junk 1960's LOCO (parts are exactly the same) and put them on the 6110. 

The bar that holds the connector up was broken off but I used Super Glue to connect it to the 6110--it worked fine.

It's funny but I've just learned that Lionel used mostly the same internal parts for their scouts from the late 40's to early 60's. They just went to plastic boilers in the 60's. 

Personally the only trains I like are Lionel and the only Lionels I like are the early die cast (pre-war to early 50's).


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

My favorite is a 1130, plastic and a little busted up. One of these days I'll get the 2034,the cast version.Have you picked up a repair manual yet?
It's The Complete Service Manual for Lionel Trains by Maury Klein and published by K Line. If you are getting into PostWar this is the reference to get. Amazon has it used, I'm not sure were you can find it cheeper.


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## DJTrains (Oct 8, 2008)

T-Man said:


> My favorite is a 1130, plastic and a little busted up. One of these days I'll get the 2034,the cast version.Have you picked up a repair manual yet?
> It's The Complete Service Manual for Lionel Trains by Maury Klein and published by K Line. If you are getting into PostWar this is the reference to get. Amazon has it used, I'm not sure were you can find it cheeper.


WOW! Thanks for the tip on the repair manual! This is exactly what I need. :thumbsup:


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## DJTrains (Oct 8, 2008)

Any of you guys ever use that Lionel train CD repair software sold on ebay?


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I bought the 99cent one with 1.4 meg of info. It has post and prewar catalogs.Some MPC service pages I didn't have.The catalogs give instructions on track and accessory hookup but the years jump by 5 or more during the post war. I got mine to get the prewar catalogs just to ID some trains I had. SOme go for 20 bucks but had twice the stored data. It's a 20 dollar risk.


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## DJTrains (Oct 8, 2008)

Hum? Thanks for the feedback. I bought the $10 version off the bay. The guy has 1000's of all positive feedback so we'll see.

I check the book you mentioned and it's about $80. That's a little pricey for me right now.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Amazon had it posted for 64. A local man had a 3 book service guide I think by Greenberg out of print. I can't even find one for sale. The book will give you a good overview of motors, accessories,switches,Etc. For me it has been a good reference and has more info than the Train Catalogs (CD Disc).The good thing about the disk is that you can print out some nice wall decor. You will get some info out it.If you want I could scan a page or two. Just post me.

http://www.thortrains.net/
Look at the Basic O/O27 Manual. Lotta Good Stuff. I should go back and see more of this site.


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## DJTrains (Oct 8, 2008)

Thanks T-Man for the offer but I have the CD coming already.

I may not need the full info in the book because I'm not planning on lots of train sets. I want a couple nice 1930's-50's trains to give the layout action but actually I'm more interested in the buildings, landscape, old Tootsie cars that move, etc.

My layout will be made to represent my life. I'm making houses that look like the houses I lived in over the years. The special stores and stops will be miniatures of my favorite places. So, I guess you could say the trains are mostly to add life to my miniature work.

I think most who get into this hobby love trains and that "toy look." I like Lionel trains due to my childhood, but I'm really not a train junkie. :laugh:

Memories and places mean more to me than trains. I plan to make my layout look as real to life as possible. Thus the rusted tracks, hills rather than all flat layout, etc. 

My wife is pretty well known as a miniaturist and she's done a lot of work in this over the years. I'm doing my own work for this layout but she'll be a lot of help.

Dale


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Personal Touch*

It sounds like you will have a layout with a personal touch. It sounds great! 

I just have a work table,a double loop with a 45 deg crossing and an elevated loop on a trestle. I use it as a test track but nothing is permanent. I can change it as needed. 

A simple way to make a car move is have it attached on a road and have the whole road roll. It would have to be straight and both ends would have tobe covered by a tunnel or building. Or you can do it as a sidewalk and have people move.
Looking forward to seeing your progress!:thumbsup:


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## DJTrains (Oct 8, 2008)

Thanks that sounds interesting.

I'll try the magnet thing first to see how well it works. Those rare earth magnets would have the power. 

A train fixed with rare earth magnets running under the table just clear the bottom of the layout road bed should move diecast cars above.

I'll make the roadway thin and add weight to the train to keep the magnets from lifting it off its track.

It may take some figuring but I'll get it to work.


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