# HO or N?



## benjaminrogers (Feb 24, 2012)

I've recently been able to comeback to model railroading after being denied for years (yes, a divorce) and will be moving into a Craftsman style duplex that has a decent sized basement. My layout will have to be free standing because it is a rental (no fastening to the concrete walls and I don't want a 4x8 layout.

So my question is do I go with N or HO? I have a large tote full of HO rolling stock and two or three engines (Steam and diesel) BUT none of it has been out in ages. Not even sure if any of it works. Some of it is from the 1950's.

Do I start fresh with N or try to repair the HO? What are the benefits?

What type of benchwork would be best? I was thinking of 24" wide, kind of meandering around the basement and I want my daughter to be able to walk around it along with the girlfriend.

Any help would be appreciated!!

NOTE: I also want to run this with a DCC for all the cool effects...and train management.


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

What's the total area you have to work with?


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## xrunner (Jul 29, 2011)

May seem like a weird question, but first I'd ask you if you can see small objects well. I do N scale and I don't even work on it up close unless I take out my contacts so I can use my nearsightedness to help me.


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## benjaminrogers (Feb 24, 2012)

That I don't know yet Scott. I have to measure it out and won't be able to do that until we have the stuff we need store in the basement. I have to deal with the laundry area and a furnace. The thing about construction is I'd like to be able to have it modular so I can move it out of there.  As soon as I have a measurement I'll post it.


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## benjaminrogers (Feb 24, 2012)

Xrunner, I can see small stuff up close. I build models so I have magnifiers and a magnifying lamp.


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## xrunner (Jul 29, 2011)

benjaminrogers said:


> Xrunner, I can see small stuff up close. I build models so I have magnifiers and a magnifying lamp.


Well if that isn't a barrier, then you can get a more complex layout with N scale in any given area. If you want sound in the Locos you will have a harder job though, due to lack of room for a speaker.


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## benjaminrogers (Feb 24, 2012)

So N doesn't have space for speakers? That would really be an issue since I want to run late 1930's steam...


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## xrunner (Jul 29, 2011)

benjaminrogers said:


> So N doesn't have space for speakers? That would really be an issue since I want to run late 1930's steam...


You can get the chassis milled out it you want to. It can be done, but it's just harder than HO. I believe most HO have room for speakers.


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## Brakeman Jake (Mar 8, 2009)

Indeed,sound can be obtained much easier with steamers as decoders and speakers are installed in the tenders.But still,you have to have big enough tenders to do it,like 2-8-2's and bigger.Smaller steamers usually have smaller tenders wich may not be large enough in many cases.


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## benjaminrogers (Feb 24, 2012)

My Grandfather was a B&O and eventually C&O engineer. This layout is about the primetimes in his career. He hated diesel. Looks ike HO may be the way to go.


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## kursplat (Dec 8, 2010)

your HO rolling stock can easily be upgraded with new trucks and couplers if needed and if the 2 or 3 engines you have aren't easy candidates fo a DCC install, you can always pick up a couple newer engines to get rolling with. build the layout as a series of free standing modules and you'll be able to easily take them with you when it's time to move.

:thumbsup:

good luck


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## benjaminrogers (Feb 24, 2012)

kursplat said:


> build the layout as a series of free standing modules and you'll be able to easily take them with you when it's time to move.


kursplat,

Do you know of any websites that go into how to build the modules? I've got a Wescott book on the way but I've also been looking at open-grid. Any suggestions?


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## kursplat (Dec 8, 2010)

there are a few threads on this site with some module builds. a quick look with the search will find them. also try google. 
i found 
THIS

AND THIS 
should get you started with the concept

edit: instead of modules you could also consider this a "chain saw" layout. you _know_ it's going to be torn up when it's reached the end of it's service life and consider it a learning experience. refine technique, make mistakes and have fun


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## matt785115 (Feb 13, 2012)

I built a modular one, four pieces. its not too hard. i watched this guy on youtube (jlwii) he has a series on "start-to-finish train layout". it gave some good ideas for mine.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OMWfOpnMsCM&feature=results_main&playnext=1&list=PLBA7B7010EF34BBC1

sorry for the long link but it works,
matt


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## benjaminrogers (Feb 24, 2012)

I think I've decided on going with N-Scale. Just a smaller typical layout for now. Two engines, no DCC. I'd like to run a one passenger and one freight. Definitely around the 1930's era.

Any suggestions on Steam Engines to use? Pro's and con's of brands?


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## Brakeman Jake (Mar 8, 2009)

Not going DCC certainly broadens your choice pretty much.However,you'll have to decide what size of steamers you want.Also your curve radiuses will dictate what you can reliably run...15+ radius can take the anything (Big Boy if you wish to),then 12 to 15 will handle middle sized (2-8-2,4-8-2,2-8-4),and then 9 to 12 in. will take the smaller ones like 2-6-2,4-4-0,0-6-0,etc.

Many times,large locos will handle curves that are tighter than prescribed by their makers but often look silly doing it.Lot of overhang is one thing,but they also are running near their derailing point,wich occur more often.

Probably the best N scale steamer is Kato's 2-8-2 Mikado.Probably out of stock though,you may have to turn to Ebay to get one.Another strong reputation is the Bachmann 2-8-0,surprisingly,this Bachmann is a success story.Other Bachmann's...stick to their Spectrum line and test before buying.They have irregular quality issues.

Model Power make both a 4-6-2 Pacific and a 2-8-2 Mikado that are quite good.Likely out of stock too.

I've suggested mid-range locos but there are others,either bigger or smaller.But if you want to stay DC and don't mind used locos,you could search Ebay where nice models from Minitrix and Con-Cor(Rivarossi) show up regularly for very decent prices...but keep in mind that they're not easy DCC retrofit in most cases,should you decide to go that direction in the future.


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## benjaminrogers (Feb 24, 2012)

I'm starting to rethink the DCC portion of it. I want to fit this into the 1920's/30's Brakeman Joe. Any thoughts on locomotives? I'd really like to stick with B&O as that was who my Grandfather worked for. Probably one line will be passenger and the second coal/timber.


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## benjaminrogers (Feb 24, 2012)

Would the Con-Cor 2-8-2 Heavy Mikado be a good engine? $80.00?


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## Brakeman Jake (Mar 8, 2009)

The Mikado(freight loco) was a highly popular loco owned by quite a few railways.If B&O owned any in the 20/30's era,I don't know,you'll have to research yourself.However,most(if not all) ConCor offerings were Rivarossi made and were fair quality locos,with good details.I've read that their weak point was an occasional motor failure.And $80. sounds fair to me for a good running one.

I suppose you've seen this one on Ebay.Check for wheel wear (if visible),it will give you a good indication of the general condition.In general,Ebay sellers don't cheat on their items description,but some do.Check seller's rating.


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

Here's a link to the B&O Mikado roster, has some good info in it. http://www.steamlocomotive.com/mikado/?page=bo If you're looking to find old photos of a specific loco number try this: http://www.northeast.railfan.net/bo_steam6.html 

NOTE: All B&O Mikado's were of the "Q" class. Hope this helps.


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