# Digitrax Throttle / Command Station Questions -- Is the EVOXD kit overkill?



## EBrown (5 mo ago)

So I'm looking to get a DCC throttle that I can use with the model train club I want to join (they have a waiting list, and I'm 1 or 2 on it). They use the Digitrax wireless system, the two options they suggested are the UT6D (around $150-175) and the DT602D (around $200-220).

Because I have no layout at home, I decided that if I'm going to get a throttle to use at the model train club, I should build a home system that matches. No sense having two different platforms for that regard.

My eventual goal is to use DCC-EX, but until then, I am looking at getting one of those throttles and some sort of Digitrax command station that works with them so I can get an immediate setup while I build the DCC-EX platform.

I've found a Digitrax starter set (Digitrax EVOXD Evolution Duplex Starter) and it has: DCS210+ command station, UR93 wireless transceiver, and the DT602D that I'm looking at for the model train club. However, the kit runs around $500 or so, depending where I look. That is a pretty penny to spend on Day 1, given I don't have any trains to run yet. That said, the fact that I would have all the versatility I need from the very start is very enticing.

The other option I'm considering for home is a Digitrax Zephyr Express (DTX-ZEPE) which is around $180-200 for the base station, with the DT602D throttle plugged into a LocoNet port on the Zephyr. This saves me around $100 at the start, and also has the added benefit that I could pick up the Zephyr Express first, and add the throttle _some day_ in the future (if/when I join the model train club). However, the Zephyr is a 3A kit, the EVOXD uses a DCS210+ which is a 5A as-is, or an 8A with an upgraded power pack. Additionally, the Zephyr Express is a 20-train/20-throttle system, and the DCS210+ is a 100-train/100-throttle system. While I don't expect to exceed either capacity, it is worthy of note.

Some details for my home layout: I'm in N-scale, I have a 12' x 10' room of which I'm doing an "around the room" layout of varying 2'-3' depth, and my goal is to run 2-4 individual DCC trains. However, I do plan to consist at a point, so I may end up with 6-10 locomotives running on the high-end, needing a command station/booster setup that produces around 5A, maximum, is my current thought. That said, if I want to go above 6 locomotives, I will need to upgrade the Zephyr or add a booster, whereas the EVOXD won't have that issue.

Long story short, my question is: what are people's thoughts on the two options? I have the Zephyr Express option from-the-start for $200-ish, then I can add the DT602D (and even a UR92/3 later if I want) for $200-350 (depending on whether I do wireless at home or not), and eventually a booster ($50-150 I imagine), or I could do the EVOXD kit from-the-start for $500 and have the power I need at the very beginning, and not have to worry about swapping anything out later because it should firmly meet my needs. Are there folks who have the EVOXD system (or a similar setup) and like it? Are there "gotcha's" to trying to use a Zephyr Express as a base command station long-term, besides the advertised limitations?


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

The Digitrax EVOXD Evolution Duplex Starter set is a complete system that would server you for years. Try Yankee Dabbler for prices. Sometimes he throws in the rechargeable battery on the throttle. You could get the non RF version which would save some money. As you get a larger layout you can have Digitrax add RF to the throttle and then walk around with the throttle disconnected (wireless). You can also add the ability to use a phone as a walk around throttle using JMRI which connects a computer to the DS210+ controller.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Unless you plan to run several SOUND
locos at the same time you have no
need of a DCC controller that puts out
more than 2 amps. 2 amps on an N scale
layout will run 4, 5 or more locos at the
same time...not a likely event, unless you
have a number of loco consists. Limit
your buy to a controller that is compatible with
the remote that will be used at the club.

Also, keep in mind that you'll need an external
power source for turnouts, lights and such.
Old Wall warts are handy for this. It should
put out around 12 volts DC an amp or less.
Each wall wart has a label with that info.

Don

Don


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## EBrown (5 mo ago)

DonR said:


> Unless you plan to run several SOUND
> locos at the same time you have no
> need of a DCC controller that puts out
> more than 2 amps. 2 amps on an N scale
> ...


Good to know, I could stick with the Zephyr Express then and add the wireless throttle later, as the throttle is what I need for the club, and it supports being hard-wired to a LocoNet controller (DCS52 included).



Lemonhawk said:


> The Digitrax EVOXD Evolution Duplex Starter set is a complete system that would server you for years. Try Yankee Dabbler for prices. Sometimes he throws in the rechargeable battery on the throttle. You could get the non RF version which would save some money. As you get a larger layout you can have Digitrax add RF to the throttle and then walk around with the throttle disconnected (wireless). You can also add the ability to use a phone as a walk around throttle using JMRI which connects a computer to the DS210+ controller.


The club uses the wireless/duplex throttles, they do have Wi-Fi control available, but I think I'd prefer to have a hand-held. I believe their Wi-Fi system runs through a Digitrax LNWI controller.


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## Steve Rothstein (Jan 1, 2021)

I run a Zephyr for my home layout. I also bought to of the corded DT602 throttles to use to expand. I finally have a booster on order because I noticed my trains slowing down where I would prefer more power. But I should point out that this is running four or five trains at one time, each with multi-engine consists, and all of them have sound. The Zephyr is a great start in DCC, especially if you have the other throttle.

My layout is now a u shape in an 8x16 foot shed with continuous running. If I were starting new, with plans to grow, I would probably go with the Evoxd system if I had the money to spare for it. But I sincerely doubt you would go wrong with the Zephyr and a DT602.


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## EBrown (5 mo ago)

Steve Rothstein said:


> I run a Zephyr for my home layout. I also bought to of the corded DT602 throttles to use to expand. I finally have a booster on order because I noticed my trains slowing down where I would prefer more power. But I should point out that this is running four or five trains at one time, each with multi-engine consists, and all of them have sound. The Zephyr is a great start in DCC, especially if you have the other throttle.
> 
> My layout is now a u shape in an 8x16 foot shed with continuous running. If I were starting new, with plans to grow, I would probably go with the Evoxd system if I had the money to spare for it. But I sincerely doubt you would go wrong with the Zephyr and a DT602.


Your area isn't much larger than mine. I don't really plan to do much sound (maybe 1 or 2 loco's), so I think I might be able to get away with the Zephyr Express right now, and add the DT602D when I'm ready for it.

I have a layout plan at the moment that has a single main-line which is a full loop, and a pretty decent yard. As mentioned in some other threads, eventually I want to automate the entire system, so there's a high likelihood that the controller I buy now becomes largely obsolete. Right now I could imagine running 2-3 trains on the layout easily, one being an "ops" train and one or two being various freight handling trains. The main loop has three freight branches off of it right now.


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## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

I run 3 trains concurrently on my N scale layout. I'm using the NCE PowerCab starter set, which I believe is just 2A. It's rated for up to 6 locomotives, and is just a 2A power supply. I would think the Zephyr should be fine!


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## EBrown (5 mo ago)

JeffHurl said:


> I run 3 trains concurrently on my N scale layout. I'm using the NCE PowerCab starter set, which I believe is just 2A. It's rated for up to 6 locomotives, and is just a 2A power supply. I would think the Zephyr should be fine!


I was going to get the PowerCab starter set until I learned what the local train club used, given the Digitrax controller is $200+ I'd rather be able to actually use it.


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## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

I would agree that you should start out with something compatible with the club you want to join.

Once the cold weather pushes me indoors for the winter, I plan to do more work on my layout, including the use of JMRI. Recently, I was able to get JMRI working with my NCE system (using their USB interface board), and was using my phone as a throttle. I also have an MRC Prodigy Advance Sq. system that was in an auction I won, so I have a spare DCC system, and I may just build a second layout for the fun of it. Originally, I was planning to use the MRC Prodigy system for JMRI, but I was unable to find the MRC USB interface in stock anywhere.

In any event, I have an extra DCC system, and a bunch of Kato Unitrack, so I may as well use it. 

The auction I won also included 3 Digitrax DS-64s. So I may end up trying to control my turnouts using these stationary decoders. Each DS64 can control 4 turnouts independently. There are times when I'd like to throw several switches at once, and I believe JMRI can handle those sort of things.

I don't think I'll want complete automation, but having computer control sounds intriguing.


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## EBrown (5 mo ago)

JeffHurl said:


> I would agree that you should start out with something compatible with the club you want to join.
> 
> Once the cold weather pushes me indoors for the winter, I plan to do more work on my layout, including the use of JMRI. Recently, I was able to get JMRI working with my NCE system (using their USB interface board), and was using my phone as a throttle. I also have an MRC Prodigy Advance Sq. system that was in an auction I won, so I have a spare DCC system, and I may just build a second layout for the fun of it. Originally, I was planning to use the MRC Prodigy system for JMRI, but I was unable to find the MRC USB interface in stock anywhere.
> 
> ...


Heh, I've been a software engineer for over a decade, and the biggest part of model railroading that I'm interested is automation of a running railway. At some point I'd even love to automate the pickup and drop off of cars, including being able to specify a car from the middle of the train, have it store the back, drop the car, pickup the back and take off again. I don't know when I'll get to that one, but I am hoping to at some point.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Back a year or so there was a post here on the
Forum that demonstrated total automation of
the modeler's layout. It was running 2 or 3 trains
at the same time but did not do any 'switching' 
(dropping off or picking up cars).

Running the trains and throwing the turnout points
can easily be automated. The most challenging
problem to automate a switching operation would
be 'placement' and uncoupling the cars. There are solenoid
operated uncouplers sold by Kaydee. Perhaps
your code could control these. 

Don


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## EBrown (5 mo ago)

DonR said:


> Back a year or so there was a post here on the
> Forum that demonstrated total automation of
> the modeler's layout. It was running 2 or 3 trains
> at the same time but did not do any 'switching'
> ...


I'll have to look for those, that would be ideal.


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## Conductorkev (Nov 5, 2021)

EBrown said:


> I'll have to look for those, that would be ideal.



If I remember reading correctly it is a pain for ho and nearly impossible for N scale which you are using. Uncoupling using magnets is much harder in N scale I've heard which trying to automate would be nearly impossible because if it doesn't uncoupie the system would not know and would go on with the next command


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## EBrown (5 mo ago)

Conductorkev said:


> If I remember reading correctly it is a pain for ho and nearly impossible for N scale which you are using. Uncoupling using magnets is much harder in N scale I've heard which trying to automate would be nearly impossible because if it doesn't uncoupie the system would not know and would go on with the next command


Hmmm, depending how finicky it ends up being I may have to look for a phote-eye that can detect if the uncoupling was successful.


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## Conductorkev (Nov 5, 2021)

EBrown said:


> Hmmm, depending how finicky it ends up being I may have to look for a phote-eye that can detect if the uncoupling was successful.



I believe there was a thread on these boards about how finicky it is. I'll see if I can dig it up for you and post the link in here.


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

I agree with all of your reasoning. 
And I don’t want to sound gloomy; I’d join the club first, see if it’s a group you enjoy or is stable before committing to their system standards. I say this because of two observations: my brother joined a club, which was fraught with tension & club politics. Several members left a year later, including him. Another club that was around for 30+ years abruptly imploded a few years ago. I have no idea why but seems like nearly 100% of members walked away. It’s now under “new management.”
And sure, that’s just two… out of how many clubs? But likelihood of it happening isn't the point. I’m advising to get “in” and analyze the situation for yourself from the inside before investing in compliance of their requirements from the outside. Having a DCC system of any sort, compatible or not, shouldn’t be a requisite in order to join. Hopefully any such caution will be for naught in the end. Better to have been cautious than to have been burned, especially with caution being free and burned coming at a loss of some manner. The old adage of “hope for the best, but plan for the worst” are words to live by.


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## EBrown (5 mo ago)

OilValleyRy said:


> I agree with all of your reasoning.
> And I don’t want to sound gloomy; I’d join the club first, see if it’s a group you enjoy or is stable before committing to their system standards. I say this because of two observations: my brother joined a club, which was fraught with tension & club politics. Several members left a year later, including him. Another club that was around for 30+ years abruptly imploded a few years ago. I have no idea why but seems like nearly 100% of members walked away. It’s now under “new management.”
> And sure, that’s just two… out of how many clubs? But likelihood of it happening isn't the point. I’m advising to get “in” and analyze the situation for yourself from the inside before investing in compliance of their requirements from the outside. Having a DCC system of any sort, compatible or not, shouldn’t be a requisite in order to join. Hopefully any such caution will be for naught in the end. Better to have been cautious than to have been burned, especially with caution being free and burned coming at a loss of some manner. The old adage of “hope for the best, but plan for the worst” are words to live by.


I don't disagree, the only real "rule" about it is that each club member provides their own (compatible) throttle. Now, they do have WiFi setup, so I can use an app throttle for the first few weeks while I evaluate whether I like the people and want to join or not, so I might do that during the first 4-6 weeks before committing to the DT602D throttle itself.

That said, I think at this point I'm leaning to the Zephyr Express, because it will do everything I want (including an analog loco), and then add the higher-end throttle later. The Zephyr has _everything_ I need, and will also support everything I _want_ as well, until I finish building my DCC controller. I can start minimally, and expand from there as needed.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

The DS 64's have the ability to set up paths thru a number of turnouts. It will take a good reding of the manual to decipher how to set it up. I use it to select which siding track of 3 the loco will enter all with just a single push button on the siding you want and a push button on the main to get the main set to thru traffic. This can also be done with JMRI but the DS64 was there and it wasn't that difficult to understand. In my case it was the DS64 was controlling 3 turnouts via a single button push.


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## Steve Rothstein (Jan 1, 2021)

I did not think about it that way earlier, but I agree with @OilValleyRy on his advice about checking the club out before deciding on what type of DCC you use. There is one other thing you should know about with the Zephyr that might be a problem and might not (sounds like not a problem for you though). The throttle built into the Zephyr uses a rheostat type lever for the speed. It has a defined beginning and end point. The direction control is also controlled by a hard switch. Most throttles for DCC use electronics for controlling the speed and direction.

Where this causes some problems (not insurmountable) is when you switch which train is controlled by the throttle. If you are running two trains, you get one set how you want it. Then you switch to the other locomotive. Your first train keeps running however it was set when you switched. The second train is immediately sent the signal that the throttle is set at, not starting at zero throttle. If you get it set up how you want and then switch back to loco 1, it will immediately get the signal you have the throttle set at, either speeding up or slowing down or even switching direction. 

The DT602 and other electronic throttles will switch to a train and leave it set at whatever it was set at when you last used it. So, if you start with loco one and switch to an unused loco, it will just sit there until you tell it what to do. When you switch back to the first loco, it will still be at the same settings you left it at, not speeding up or slowing down until you enter a command for it.

I learned about this the hard way when I was first starting out. I wanted to try two locomotives on one track and ended up crashing them because I could not switch back and forth and move the throttle in time to avoid it.


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## kilowatt62 (Aug 18, 2019)

Automated Yard:

(Edited to delete my thoughts/comments) 
Someone else beat me to it. Redundancy not needed. 

KW62


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## Conductorkev (Nov 5, 2021)

kilowatt62 said:


> Automated Yard:
> And write a program that compensates when the photo-eye “sees” the issue and then trips the virtual, all stop, panic button until a “fix” is figured out and executed by the computer. Oh what fun eh?!
> Good luck brother. Respectful and serious here. I wanna see what you come up with for that when the time comes. Could be something big.
> (Could sell that program indeed. 😬)
> ...



Is it even harder to set up the magnet on a grade? If it's possible you could uncouple and the car would travel down slop hit a sensor which would execute the next command I'd not retry the uncoupling.


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## EBrown (5 mo ago)

kilowatt62 said:


> Automated Yard:
> 
> (Edited to delete my thoughts/comments)
> Someone else beat me to it. Redundancy not needed.
> ...





Conductorkev said:


> Is it even harder to set up the magnet on a grade? If it's possible you could uncouple and the car would travel down slop hit a sensor which would execute the next command I'd not retry the uncoupling.


Well FWIW I don't even know if the "magnetic uncoupler" will be the answer. I'll try it out, but the reality is I might end up in just as much a physics problem as a programming one, because I may have to engineer my own uncoupling mechanism. I don't know yet, I'm going to start with the magnetic one and see where I get, but I am not going to speculate _too_ hard on a problem I haven't even started working on yet.


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