# Best way to make a road



## Shadowplayer (Oct 31, 2014)

I need to make a paved road on my layout, the gravel has worn itself out. I dont really know how to go about doing this. I went and spread a thin layer of plaster where the road would be and it came out pretty nice except for a couple giant cracks.

How do you guys build your roads?


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## Dano (Aug 26, 2012)

For most rail scenes some deft painting will suffice to turn it into a passable road. New paving is darker than old. You can also use a fine grade of sand paper as a base if you want a bit of texture. This is what I did for some gaming scenery for an old un-used piece of highway.
Some WIP shots:


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

A simple way I found for doing this is to use black aquarium sand. I apply it over a thin layer of white glue. Similar method to applying the grass using WS shakers. Pet shop sells it for $3.50 for 5 pounds. It may be a little dark but for the cost and ease it works.


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## dasB&M2-6-0 (Dec 13, 2014)

Another method is using asphalt shingles....they come in a variety of colors and textures - and PRICES!! I was able to get just a couple of "sample" shingles from the local Home Depot....often there's an open pallet with some torn/broken pieces....they were gratis!!
For striping I used a "paint pen" from Michael's Craft Store.....
The shingles I got very closely replicate the "crushed rock/tar" pattern, typical of the roads of the '50s and early '60s - the era I'm modeling!!

May your freight ALWAYS roll smoothly...and ON TIME!!


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

I would think that roof shingles would be better used on the larger scale model railroads......the chips in the shingles are likely too big to look good in "N" scale, I would imagine......maybe even too big for "HO" as well.....


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## Shadowplayer (Oct 31, 2014)

Yeah, I think shingles will be a BIT too coarse for my needs. The sandpaper idea isnt a bad one, its something I have on hand I can try out today. Got another 6 inches last night to this morning with another 4-6 today, so its a good day to stay inside and work.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I wouldn't worry about the cracks. Real roads have them, sometimes stuffed with rubbery tar, sometimes not. As long as it's not a post-earthquake 3 scale foot drop type of crack, it shouldn't matter. 

If you wish, just patch them by wetting the spot, putting a little plaster on it and smoothing it with a wet finger.


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## Shadowplayer (Oct 31, 2014)

I did try that, but the crack, at its widest/deepest, ended up being 3/4 cm by 1/2 cm, something that would not translate well scale wise. 


Plus, it honestly didnt look all that great.


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

Come to think of it, you never did mention the scale you are working in.....unless I missed it.....


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

Oh, and here is a link to Woodland Scenics roadway products.....not an arm and a leg either....

http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/category/roadsystem


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## Mr. SP (Jan 7, 2015)

*Road*

For roads on my model railroad I used scrap three tab roofing. I put it back side up then painting it flat black
The road was sprayed with Testors Gloss cote then 4 scale inch decal stripe was used fo lines. After lines were dry I sprayed the road with Testors Dull cote a couple of times.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Shadowplayer said:


> I did try that, but the crack, at its widest/deepest, ended up being 3/4 cm by 1/2 cm, something that would not translate well scale wise.
> 
> 
> Plus, it honestly didnt look all that great.


If you've got a crack that big, I would investigate the cause. Something is moving under the surface. If it doesn't affect your track, well and good.

The flip side is that something that big is easily patched.


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## Shadowplayer (Oct 31, 2014)

CTValleyRR said:


> If you've got a crack that big, I would investigate the cause. Something is moving under the surface. If it doesn't affect your track, well and good.
> 
> The flip side is that something that big is easily patched.


Its the basement the layout is in. Its cold down there, usually around 50 during the night, but when I am down there I keep heaters on, that brings it up to almost 70 at times. Its also pretty humid down there, but when it snows it gets very dry.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I would think the plaster dried too quickly. What is the plaster on? If unfinished wood it could be absorbing the moisture. Paint the wood first. You could slow the drying down a bit by adding a bit of spackle. Maybe cover it with some plastic? Just an idea. I used this mix for my roads, while a bit bigger this worked fine for me and I have the same conditions.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Shadowplayer said:


> Its the basement the layout is in. Its cold down there, usually around 50 during the night, but when I am down there I keep heaters on, that brings it up to almost 70 at times. Its also pretty humid down there, but when it snows it gets very dry.


Before you go much further, I would fix the humidity problem. I have a similar environment, but I keep a dehumidifier set to keep the relative humidity under 50%, and painted benchwork keeps it from expanding and contracting much.


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## Shadowplayer (Oct 31, 2014)

CTValleyRR said:


> Before you go much further, I would fix the humidity problem. I have a similar environment, but I keep a dehumidifier set to keep the relative humidity under 50%, and painted benchwork keeps it from expanding and contracting much.


I have done all I can. Its a very dry time of year, and with the heaters running all the time, there is very little I can do. Our dehumidifier hasnt turned on in a few weeks now, it will stay like this until the snow melts. Part of the many problems with a 200 year old house.


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