# Couplers?!?



## Stradawhovious (Feb 28, 2012)

When I first started this hobby (a few days ago......) I was gifted a Locomotive that was equipped with the (I think) #58 Kadee couplers..... THat same person also gave me a box full of loose couplers and their bronze centering springs.

I have since been putting these on all the rolling stock I have purchased for the sake of continuity and compatibility.

My questions... 

1. are these things basically a standard? It seems that a lot of folks are using them.

2. are they compatible with any other couplers? I know they don't work with the old school "horn hook" (I think they're referred to) couplers...

3. I have read about magnetic uncoupling with these. (in lieu of actually having to look it up on google.... :laugh: ) How does that work?

Thanks in advance for your patience and expertise.


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

The Kadee style couplers are pretty much compatible with the other knuckle style couplers (I like Kadee the best)

I use the small magnets that get glued between the rails on top of the ties. The trip pin hanging below the knuckle gets pushed outboard when you go over it.

The secret is pulling the coupling over the magnet, then backing up a little to induce slack between the couplers, when this happens and you pull forward again, the couplers will be pushed outward away from each other. You can then (if you're careful) pull your engine back over the coupler and they will engage in a way that they won't couple, but you can push the car back to where you want to spot it and pull away clean.

Another method is burying an electric uncoupler under the track. Uncoupling occurs the same as above, but with the electric one it only does it when it is energized.

If you're using knuckle couplers, pick up a coupler gage and make sure the coupler & trip pins are at the right height. This is key for reliable use.


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## Rangerover (Feb 8, 2012)

The kadee couplers with the bronze centering springs are #5, and the #58 are the more to scale coupler, and #48 is a drop in with bronze whisker springs, all are the most common. But as a previous poster said, get a coupler height gauge for the obvious proper coupler height and just as important the trip pin. The trip pin is a very hard wire which is the magnet that does the uncoupling. I recommend you purchase a set of trip pin pliars though round nose pliars will work, but too much pressure when twisting up can break that part off if not careful. The trip pin if not adjusted properly will get caught on frogs in turnouts and crossings and cause uncoupling and derailment.

Hook horn will not match up to or couple to these type couplers. Some guys change one coupler to hook horn on a car so as to use the remainder of cars not yet converted to Kadee's. 
Kadee sells the uncoupling magnets in 3 different config's, magnetic, delayed magnetic, and electric magnetic, the electric magnetic can be used on main lines where I would strongly advise not to use the other 2 on mains, you'll have a mess of uncloupled cars if you do. Kaydee sells the magnets for under $4.00 and they fit between the rails 2 per package, the electric magnet is obviously more and not sure of the price.
Hope I helped some! Jim


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## Stradawhovious (Feb 28, 2012)

Thanks folks! Answered perfectly!


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

Rangerover said:


> I recommend you purchase a set of trip pin pliars though round nose pliars will work, but too much pressure when twisting up can break that part off if not careful. The trip pin if not adjusted properly will get caught on frogs in turnouts and crossings and cause uncoupling and derailment.


Exactly. Here's what Jim is talking about and where you can get them. These special plyers make adjusting trip pins very easy. http://www.micromark.com/trip-pin-bending-plier-ho-and-o-scale,7521.html

Routerman


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

there are a lot of different Kadee coupers. Go to there website and look around. There is a PDF file that list which couplers to use on which brand of engine and rolling stock.


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## cv_acr (Oct 28, 2011)

sstlaure said:


> The Kadee style couplers are pretty much compatible with the other knuckle style couplers (I like Kadee the best).


The other knuckle couplers are all clones of the original Kadee design.

McHenry and Bachman EazyMate couplers are basically plastic versions of a Kadee 58 with the smaller head.

A a small layout there's probably no real difference between a plastic clone and a real Kadee 58. On my club layout where we run 40+ car trains we only allow metal Kadee couplers. Some of the metal clones, like the one Rapido and True-Line Trains uses are also banned, as that particular coupler has a tendency to fail.

One thing though, ONLY stick to couplers that have a proper coil spring on the knuckle, and not one that uses a little "finger" of plastic as a spring. This can get bent so that the couple doesn't close properly anymore. (The old Life-Like Proto knuckle coupler had a design like this. One really hard coupling could bend that little plastic "spring". Totally garbage design.)


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## Rangerover (Feb 8, 2012)

If you go to the kadee site, you're really gonna get confused so here's what I recommend for beginners, it's a kadee started set and it's under $37.00. It includes all the special tools that you will eventually need, including the hieght gauge, and the trip pin pliars, a spring pick for those stubborn little coupler springs, plus an assortment of the most popular couplers and a sheet that explains in simple language what they are for and how they are applied. The company is Yankee Dabbler and the guy ships lightning fast, good people. He's on ebay too, so you can check his feedback, which is 100% with thousands of sales. Kadee lists this kit for over $50.00. But it's a great, must have kit for trouble free from uncoupling and derailments. Have some fun! Jim
http://www.yankeedabbler.com/.sc/ms/sch/ee?search=kadee+1030+starter&go.x=27&go.y=13


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## Rangerover (Feb 8, 2012)

The other thing too and is very important and found in any serious model railroader's tool box is an* NMRA standards gauge*. This is used for checking and adjusting your wheel/track spacing. It also checks the point settings on your switch's/turnouts and other goodies. Keeping these things in check with the use of this tool will keep your trains from a lot of frustration caused by derailents. This too is sold by Yankee Dabbler. Jim
http://www.yankeedabbler.com/.sc/ms/cat/N-98--21


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## cv_acr (Oct 28, 2011)

The standard Kadee coupler is their #5. The #58 is similar with with a smaller more in scale head.

You can't go wrong with a bulk pack.

Most of the rest of the wide variety of offerings on Kadee's catalog are to fit specific situations where the standard #5 doesn't work.


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

cv_acr said:


> A a small layout there's probably no real difference between a plastic clone and a real Kadee 58. quote]
> 
> over time I have replaced all of my non Kadee knuckle couplers. The other brands we just give you a headache. don't make the mistake that I did. Go with *Kadee #5* bulk pack of 20. You will not regret it.
> 
> ...


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