# DCC for Dummies



## Doc Holliday (Apr 6, 2014)

My first (and only) layout had DC power/control. Since I'm rebuilding, I'm thinking of upgrading to DCC. I'm modeling the Old West, circa 1860 so will be using small locos like the Jupiter. I'm also more into scenery than running trains an dam content with a couple of trains going round and round rather than switching. I've tried to do some research, but it seems like opinions and options vary greatly. Any suggestions for resources for a DCC newbie to help evaluate the cost/benefits of DCC?


----------



## Brakeman Jake (Mar 8, 2009)

For two trains,a starter set like the Digitrax Zephyr Extra with a second throttle like the UT4 will fit your needs nicely.It's easily expandable should you want to.


----------



## Ray Haddad (Feb 19, 2014)

DCC has no cost benefit. You can reduce your costs by careful shopping and planning but the cost will always be higher than DC. Sorry, but that's the name of the DCC game.

Here is a most exellent source of information for anyone just getting started.
http://www.mrdccu.com/


----------



## golfermd (Apr 19, 2013)

Another way to help with cost is to stay away from sound for the time being. Sound adds significantly to cost. You can get a DCC decoder for $15-$20, versus $100 for a sound decoder (plus the cost of speakers, speaker enclosures, etc...). One thing, when you get a sound decoder it is DCC, but a DCC decoder is not sound. What DCC gives you is the ability to run your locomotives independent of each other since each locomotive has its own identity. So you can command one locomotive to do something without affecting another locomotive.


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Doc

DCC is much more simple than it appears at first, especially if you
come across some of the discussions of installation and adjusting
of the decoders.

If you do not plan an extensive layout with a lot of turnouts and
yards and with only two or three locos, then any one of the DCC
systems will do fine for you. Possibly the most simple of all to
use is the Bachmann EZ controller. It's not for a guy with a lot
of sound locos though.

Basically, you simply run several drops from your tracks to
spread the power around evenly. They are connected to a
pair of wires, the buss, which is connected to the controller. 
You do not need any on/off
switches or isolated sections. The track is powered at all times.
Your controller tells each loco individually what you want to do. You can
even have a single track main line with locos going in opposite
directions at the same time.

When you buy your locos make certain they state DCC on Board or
words to that effect. DCC READY is a DC locomotive and you must
buy a decoder and install it to be DCC active.

Don


----------



## Doc Holliday (Apr 6, 2014)

Thanks for the replies and info. Lots to consider.


----------



## musicwerks (Jan 4, 2012)

I run a small 4x8 layout with few engines.

I only installed my biggest and most expensive Proto2K steam engines with Tsunami sounds (my first DCC install, entire set with decoder, harness and enclosure supplied by NIMT). It was a breeze.

a) After gaining experience, I depended on relatively affordable Digitrax DH123D for non-sound installs. They are cheaper but will require hard-wiring/soldering. 

Besides, Digitrax honors no questions asked policy even when decoders get burnt (I burnt a few) due to user mistakes. So IMOH, that's the way to go for a start.

b) I started with a Bachmann EZ command which is easy to use. I upgraded to NCE Powercab after a few months (which allows for a lot better programming that Bachmann can't do at all). 

I agree with Ray, DCC can only add on to cost- especially with sound decoders (all my steam engines now have sound).

Musicwerks


----------

