# Just barely a start



## BNSF Fan (Feb 27, 2010)

A few days ago I put a couple of wood sawhorses together for table legs, and yesterday I went to Lowe's and bought a 36" X 80" slab hollow door. The 80" is crowding me, and I'm moving stuff around so that I can get all around the board. My first thought was to attach the board firmly to the saw horses, but then got the idea to just let it sit loose on top so that I can slide it down a few inches when I want to get around that far end, so that's a possibility also, and I like that idea the more I think about it.
















I've been playing with the Atlas track planning program trying to come up with something I like, this is gonna take awhile. I have looked at some track plans online to see if there is something already done that I like that maybe I can use in whole, or in part. So far drawing blanks.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Well, no one ever has as much space as they would like to fill with layout (at least, most of us don't).

My only real recommendation at this point would be to ditch the Atlas software. Why? Because it's designed to sell Atlas track, and there are better options out there, especially where turnouts are concerned. My personal favorite is Anyrail, which I consider to be a great investment at $60, but there are several commercial products and even some free ones that will do the job.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Look at the two stickies here on the Layout Design Forum
that show you many layout ideas. 

The best recommendation is to look for ideas. You may
not like any entire layout but you can 'steal' a yard from
one, or a complex industrial spur from another and so
on. Put them together with your own thoughts and you'll
have your own design.

Since you are starting out I'd like to encourage you to
go with flex track instead of sectional or track on a base
systems. Both lack flexibility. You are limited to what
is offered. But with flex track you design the curves.
It comes in 3 foot sections that you bend to fit your
design. You cut it to the length you need.

Don


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## BNSF Fan (Feb 27, 2010)

I have always used Atlas track in the past, and have been happy with it. Admittedly, the switches I have had to work on some of the switches to get em smoothed out. I must admit, I like the price of the Atlas track.
The flex track for the curves is a good idea. I could see going with all flex, except I like the click clack of the sectional track. What are the other choices for track that isn't too much more expensive than the Atlas? Maybe Peco, their switches are pretty good aren't they?
I want to hold the number of switches to a minimum, maybe 4 at the most.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

BNSF Fan said:


> I have always used Atlas track in the past, and have been happy with it. Admittedly, the switches I have had to work on some of the switches to get em smoothed out. I must admit, I like the price of the Atlas track.
> The flex track for the curves is a good idea. I could see going with all flex, except I like the click clack of the sectional track. What are the other choices for track that isn't too much more expensive than the Atlas? Maybe Peco, their switches are pretty good aren't they?
> I want to hold the number of switches to a minimum, maybe 4 at the most.


Actually, I wasn't saying you can't use Atlas track as I was suggesting that you not use a program that FORCES you to use it. Except for their turnouts, I have no problems with Atlas track. I have tons of it myself.

The biggest problem you will encounter is that turnouts from different manufacturers aren't interchangeable. You have to design the layout around the geometry of a specific manufacturer's turnouts, or be prepared for a lot of fiddling when you start laying track.

Turnouts? Myself, I would use Walthers, Peco, or MicroEngineering.


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## BNSF Fan (Feb 27, 2010)

Thanks CT. I have been looking at Peco's track, and switches, got plenty of time to make up my mind. Today will get started putting down the blue foam. I have just barely enough left over from my last layout to cover the 36 X 80 board.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

You can't go wrong with Peco turnouts. I have
more than 20 Peco Insulfrogs. You just do not
have turnout caused derails with Pecos.

Unless you have an old short base 4 wheel
power pickup loco you should use their Insulfrog
model. 

I have not had any difficulty matching my Pecos
to Atlas code 100 flex track. There can be a
slight offset of rail height but a simple shim can
solve that.

One note about the Insulfrogs; they are
power routing. That means a dead end spur
will lose power when the points are set 
against it. Unless you want this to, for example,
park a loco unpowered, it is recommended that
you use a power drop from both frog rails.

Don


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

I started with a box of Kato UniTrak that my son gave me. I purchased a 36"x80" door from Lowes also. That was about 18 months ago. This is what I put together. I took the track and layed it out the best I could to utilize all of my son's old track. I did buy a double crossover and some turnouts as well as a NCE Powercab DCC system. Plus a whole lot of landscaping material. To save money I ground up some old foam in a blender and dyed it. It has been a grand adventure! Now, however, I am finding N Scale difficult to work with. Good luck!


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## BNSF Fan (Feb 27, 2010)

Some nice work there. Mine will be a lot less involved, at least that's what I'm envisioning.


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## fredbon (Mar 4, 2016)

Broke Curmudgeon, yep, I know the feeling. Love the size, just not good working with magnifiers and bright lights.

Fred


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## fredbon (Mar 4, 2016)

Deleted


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## time warp (Apr 28, 2016)

I'm in HO, but I like the clickety clack of sectional track myself. I originally had a very large layout with flextrack and 60" curves, but went back to small layouts and sectional track, and have been running things that way for close to 30 years.
Everybody does things a little differently, but I build my layouts by putting the elements together that I want, say a yard, a passing siding and a crossover, then I just add the trackwork to connect it together.
One piece of advice: whatever you do, include at least 1 passing siding. You will never regret it.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

TW

Excellent advice. If a layout has any kind of yard
or industrial spurs, it is likely to have at least one
where the loco must push a car in. Only bypassing
a car on a passing siding can this be one. In the old
days crews used a manuever called a 'flying switch'.
The loco would do a fast pull of a car, uncouple on
the run, as the loco pulls away. The switchman
throws the turnout and the coasting car goes into
the spur. No longer permitted on major railroads.
Won't work on model tracks.

My single track DCC room size layout has 3 passing
sidings. I use them to provide passenger station
tracks.

Don


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## time warp (Apr 28, 2016)

Don, you well know that passing tracks can work for anything from a runaround track to sorting tracks, and certainly 2 train operation. I think passing tracks are too often overlooked by layout builders.
I will say that Atlas has done a great job including passing sidings in most, if not all, of their plans


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## BNSF Fan (Feb 27, 2010)

Progress is happening.


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## BNSF Fan (Feb 27, 2010)

I've done three layout plans on the Atlas software, and I've about decided on this layout to go with. Only two switches to mess with which suits me just fine.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I'm assuming that middle figure 8 is an over / under in both places where it crosses the other track? How are the grades in that configuration?

Also, while you can run trains around, it's a very long way to do it. Perhaps that doesn't bother you though.

Overall, you're making progress, and that's a good thing!


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## BNSF Fan (Feb 27, 2010)

Yes it will be over/under. Going to have to look at the grades, as it looks like they might be kinda steep to get enough height to go over the lower track with enough clearance for the train on the lower track. Thanks for bringing that up.
I'm not sure what you mean by a long way to run trains around tho. I'm just trying to get something a little more interesting than running around an oval.
Appreciate the comments, thank you. I don't mind going back and working something out if it looks as if something won't work.


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

If you have foam board covering your table, you could go down a little to get under the crossing. That may help to lessen the grade.


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## BNSF Fan (Feb 27, 2010)

Something to think about flyboy, thanks. I'll only need 2" to clear everything tho, including a flat car with a double stack of containers on it.
I'm trying to figure out a similar layout with only one over/under to it.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

BNSF Fan said:


> I'm not sure what you mean by a long way to run trains around tho. I'm just trying to get something a little more interesting than running around an oval.
> Appreciate the comments, thank you. I don't mind going back and working something out if it looks as if something won't work.


To run around a train parked on the right side of the layout, a loco has to go all the way through the figure eight. That might be tiresome.


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## BNSF Fan (Feb 27, 2010)

Ok, gotcha, thanks.


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## BNSF Fan (Feb 27, 2010)

Sooo, this is what it has boiled down to, fairly simple altho I did end up with more switches than I wanted to mess with, but it get's me what I want.
It will be desert scenery with rough rocky hills around the lay out to vary the looks a bit. I hope to have a 3/4" to 1" rise on the left end if where the switches are located on that end will allow it.
I'll do the outer track with the switches to the inside first, then work on the inner track later.
The small community in the center will be all older buildings, kinda what I'd expect to see out in the middle of nowhere.  I see it as a place for RR workers, and desert rats. 
So, this next week I will be ordering my track, as unfortunately there isn't any place around here to get it. Just itchin to get started.


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