# Lionel LW transformer questions



## phreaddy

Hey, all, I've found wiring diagrams, but not an operating manual. What are all the extra posts for? How can I make the whistle work? Do I wire up another lockon to two more posts? Finally, can anyone suggest a good repair shop (for both a transformer and an engine) in the Houston area?


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## tjcruiser

General old-school Lionel transformer info, and specific LW tech info ...

I think the last page of the first link has transformer pinouts.

http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=630

http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=658


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## Gerard

With the LW, the "U" (variable) post should connect to your center rail, and "A" (common) post to an outer rail, via the Lockon for your variable train-running voltage. Your whistle should activate through that same track connection when pushing the button. The extra terminals (B and C posts) on the LW are for fixed 14 volt and 18 volt outputs for running lights and accessories.. Those should never be connected to the track.


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## phreaddy

*Thanks, Gerard*

That answers it!


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## Texas Pete

*LW Operating Manual*

I got no scanner but here's a couple pics of the LW instruction sheet. It's readable if you enlarge it some. HTH.



















Pete


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## phreaddy

Perfect. Thanks, Texas Pete! BTW, may I ask where you are? I've had a spectacularly poor experience with a repair shop here in Houston, and was hoping to get some recommendations before going somewhere else.


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## Texas Pete

phreaddy said:


> Perfect. Thanks, Texas Pete! BTW, may I ask where you are? I've had a spectacularly poor experience with a repair shop here in Houston, and was hoping to get some recommendations before going somewhere else.


I'm South of Austin. There's not a decent O gauge train store (that I know about) for many miles. In case i ever need a repair person I'll contact The Austin Tinplate Trackers. You might also put in an inquiry on the forums regarding good repair shops in the Houston area.

Pete


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## tjcruiser

Pete,

Good post. I wonder if that doc (and ones like it) are available online for other old-school transformers? I don't think the "operating instructions" are in the Olsen's library, though perhaps someone will correct me on this.

Thanks,

TJ

For future Search hits:

Lionel LW Transformer Instruction Sheet
Lionel LW Transformer Operating Instructions
Lionel LW Transformer User Manual


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## gunrunnerjohn

I have that as a single PDF document will full sized pages, but I can't upload PDF files here. It's also too big for a ZIP file. What the forum needs is a library.


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## tjcruiser

Didn't someone (Big Ed, I think?) once post a link to a library of transformer "operating instructions" (as opposed to the service specs)?

I like the library idea. Hmmm ...


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## T-Man

There is a page in one of the Lionel insructions that covers the terminals, It may be in the blue service manual too.

For keeping documents public try a google document account.


Olsen has it under transformer. The first one listed under postwar transformer. page 6 So that is one place to find it.


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## gunrunnerjohn

Other sites have a library, it would be useful to be able to post stuff like this.


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## tjcruiser

Yeah, T ... I know that Olsens (and the Greenbergs book, for that matter) have tech info on various transformer pinouts, but (as far as I know), neither of these sources have the more basic "operating instructions" for each transformer, with the LW sheets posted by Texas Pete above being an example of those.

I thought maybe Ed (or you, T) had posted a "operating instructions" like those for various transformers, but I couldn't find it.

Ed ... you out there? ...

TJ


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## WestCelt

this is and old thread but hopefully it will get a response. I have a similar issue with my LW transformer. I wired post 1 to the U terminal and Post 2 to the A terminal and my old 675 runs and the whistle blows but my new Polar express will run but the Whistle would not sound until I switched. So obviously the Polarity on the Polar express is critical to getting the Whistle to blow. My question is.... the whistle button in the LW is finicky. You have to push it juuuussst right to get either whistle to blow. Is this a feature of the LW or is something needed to correct this. Also the Lockon I have is old and rattles around on the rails. Will this cause loss of voltage or amperage or whatever and impede the speed etc. of the train? the guy I go to for fixing says that as long as there is some contact its no big deal. He also says just be careful pushing the button. I'm thinking of going back to the old separate whistle and decoupler box I use to have before I got the LW many, many long years ago. Thanks


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## servoguy

A library is a good idea, John. Go for it.


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## gunrunnerjohn

Post-war transformers have a "two-stage" whistle control. The first step sends out a fairly large DC offset, then further movement of the control adds a shunt resistor across the rectifier to reduce the DC but provide additional power for old post-war whistle tenders to operate without slowing down the locomotive. For modern electronic horns, the triggering is pretty touchy. 

There are modifications to the transformer whistle circuit that will give it more reliability, or you can simply add an external whistle/bell box. There are several threads in the forum about building your own that will provide both whistle and bell.


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## WestCelt

Thanks gunrunner


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## gunrunnerjohn

Here's one I built some time back. Note the switches have more capability than necessary, it was just what I found in the parts box.


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## WestCelt

ha, I'm not all that great at identifying everything there but I know an electrician who may be able to tell me whats all in that box. Thanks, oh, one other thing. the lockon I'm using, am I right in assuming that a lockon that shakes and rattles and slides loosely is not a good connection? I think it should be fairly tight, right?

Thanks again.

Roland


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## gunrunnerjohn

Well, the only "mystery" parts would be the diodes, for maximum compatibility with all environments, 6A 100 volt silicon diodes would be good. The switches need only to be SPST-NO pushbuttons. The binding posts can be whatever you like to make the connections through the box.


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## TrainLarry

Roland,

The loose lockon is indeed a bad connection, and will cause intermittent power to the track. The loose connections will also get hot. A slight twist with a pair of pliers will tighten them up like new. Make sure the lockon is clean and corrosion free before installing it.

Larry


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## gunrunnerjohn

I totally missed replying about the lockon, but Larry is certainly right, that will basically not work at all! You can normally bend them to tighten them up.


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## servoguy

I normally put the lockons on curved track although Lionel says not to do it. They are tighter on curved track.


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## servoguy

I put crimp terminals on the wires that connect to the transformers and switches. I snug the nut with my fingers and then tighten it by turning the terminal. This eliminates the possibility of twisting off the terminal stud and yet gets the nut tight enough it doesn't work loose.


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