# Peco turnouts



## bewhole (Dec 31, 2016)

I have run into a bit of a problem I think. I went out and bought some code 55 peco turnouts to replace the atlas turnouts.( Every one says they work better) When I go to install them tho the peco's have a higher rail then the atlas does. So my question is how do you go about connecting between peco and atlas rails??
Thanks.


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## santafealltheway (Nov 27, 2012)

bewhole said:


> I have run into a bit of a problem I think. I went out and bought some code 55 peco turnouts to replace the atlas turnouts.( Every one says they work better) When I go to install them tho the peco's have a higher rail then the atlas does. So my question is how do you go about connecting between peco and atlas rails??
> Thanks.


You can either get special rail joiners that make up the difference in height, . you may have to use a couple different size adapter joiners... I would try to exchange them for the proper rail height. 

Do you have any older engines/rolling stock? They may have a deeper flange that might not work through code 55 switches.


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## bewhole (Dec 31, 2016)

santafealltheway said:


> You can either get special rail joiners that make up the difference in height, . you may have to use a couple different size adapter joiners... I would try to exchange them for the proper rail height.
> 
> Do you have any older engines/rolling stock? They may have a deeper flange that might not work through code 55 switches.


I have code 55 now. The older rolling stock has been "Converted" to fit on the tracks. You mention Special rail joiners where would I get them??
Thanks for all the information


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Same place you got the turnout would be my first bet.


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## bewhole (Dec 31, 2016)

CTValleyRR said:


> Same place you got the turnout would be my first bet.


There are not any on ebay where I got the turnouts. I checked in a few places with no luck but I think I may have found some. They are members here and I think : Micro Engineering Code 70 to 55 insulated may work. I do not know what will happen with the "insulated" part but we will see.
Thanks again for your help.:smilie_daumenpos:


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## rrjim1 (Mar 12, 2015)

Your problem is the Peco turnout are not really code 55, they are code 80 rail that sit down in the ties to look like code 55. What I have seen people do was to modify a rail jointer, making a small step and then solder it onto the code 55 rail.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Peco "code 55" track*



bewhole said:


> I have run into a bit of a problem I think. I went out and bought some code 55 peco turnouts to replace the atlas turnouts.( Every one says they work better) When I go to install them tho the peco's have a higher rail then the atlas does. So my question is how do you go about connecting between peco and atlas rails??
> Thanks.


 bewhole;

Some Peco brand "code 55" track, and possibly turnouts, are actually made with larger, code 80 rail. The rail s sunken into the plastic tie strip. (You can check this by looking closely at the rail ends of the Peco turnout. If you shave away a bit of the plastic tie,you may see rail extending down into the tie strip.) Peco claims this makes the track stronger. While that may be true, you are still left with the problem of joining two different height rails to each other.
Fortunately, there are several ways of doing this. One, you have already heard about, special rail joiners. Another is cutting a slot in the higher rail, to accommodate a rail joiner from the lower rail. I do this on my own N-scale railroad. My visible track is Micro Engineering brand, code 55. (Great looking track, but expensive.) In the hidden staging yards, I use Atlas brand code 80. (Very unrealistic looking, but cheaper.) To join them, I put a conventional, straight, rail joiner on the code 55 rail. Then, with both rails even at the top, I Dremel cut a slot in the code 80 rail. The code 55 rail joiner is then slid into the slot, and the two rails are soldered together. This works very well.
Another method is to put a straight rail joiner on the code 80 rail, flatten the protruding end with pliers, and then solder the code 55 rail to the flat tab. 
The important thing to achieve is to get the tops of both rails even. Any method that produces that result should work.

good luck; 

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Old Navy Joke*



CTValleyRR said:


> Same place you got the turnout would be my first bet.


 CTV;
An admiral asks a boot sailor, "Son,just what would you do if you saw an enemy battleship coming across that field over there? The sailor answers,"Sir I'd torpedo it!" The admiral then says, " Oh really, and where would you get a torpedo?! The sailor replies," Same place you got the battleship admiral."

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Insulated rail joiners*



bewhole said:


> There are not any on ebay where I got the turnouts. I checked in a few places with no luck but I think I may have found some. They are members here and I think : Micro Engineering Code 70 to 55 insulated may work. I do not know what will happen with the "insulated" part but we will see.
> Thanks again for your help.:smilie_daumenpos:


bewhole;

If you are ordering insulated rail joiners, be aware that they are just that, insulated, as in electrically insulated. Such rail joiners are made of plastic. Not only will they not pass electricity from one rail to the other, but typically they are not as strong as metal joiners, and may not keep the rails in alignment as well as an all-metal, soldered joint will.
Unless you are intentionally trying to electrically isolate a section of track, I would not recommend using insulated joiners.
Instead, I would either use one of the methods in my prior reply, or find some metal, non-insulated, transition joiners.

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## GLakeDylan (Dec 8, 2017)

peco 55 is a rail with double bottom, actually code 80 embedded lower into ties. if you look at the rail from end inward, you will see the double bottoms. the upper bottom is at code 55 mark. you could file or otherwise remove the bottom up to that point and then use regular joiners. you could place a regular joiner on the peco and then lay the atlas on top and solder to make connection. ME makes plastic code 80 to code 55 joiners. and, finally, you could shim up the atlas track and use pc board ties, soldered in place.


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## bewhole (Dec 31, 2016)

Sorry I have not gotten back to this subject sooner. I tryed with the Transition Rail Joiners and that did not seem to work very well. Myself I can not solder very well so that is out(Do not want to ruin them) I only have two so I am not going to worry too much about it right now. Going to stick with atlas for right now.

Thanks for all the help and information. After I get better at soldering I may try again.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Atlas and Peco turnouts*



bewhole said:


> Sorry I have not gotten back to this subject sooner. I tryed with the Transition Rail Joiners and that did not seem to work very well. Myself I can not solder very well so that is out(Do not want to ruin them) I only have two so I am not going to worry too much about it right now. Going to stick with atlas for right now.
> 
> Thanks for all the help and information. After I get better at soldering I may try again.


bewhole;

Any shimming, or other method, you use; which ends up getting the rail tops of your Peco turnouts, and your Atlas track even; is OK. Having that smooth transition, from one rail to the other, is all that matters.
You are smart to try learning more about soldering. It is an essential skill for model railroading, since it is widely used for several hobby tasks. Fortunately, it's not difficult to learn. There are several you-tube videos on the subject. They will show you how to use heat sinks to protect plastic ties from melting. They will also advise you to practice on old track, wire, or brass pieces, before tackling more advanced soldering. You are also wise to be concerned about ruining your turnouts with too much heat from poor soldering attempts. That is a very real possibility, unless you know how to do it well. 
You mentioned Atlas turnouts. Are you using the Atlas, code- 55, N-scale, turnouts? If so, those are not bad at all. Their only drawbacks are a weak plastic throwbar, and a somewhat weak bond between the rails and the plastic ties. As long as you are reasonably careful in handling them, then they should work fine. 
I do share in the popular esteem for Peco turnouts. They are very well made and reliable. However that does not mean you have to use them. If you are happy with your Atlas turnouts that's fine. Many forum members use Atlas turnouts and like them. The Atlas turnout which seems to draw the most criticism is the HO-scale "snap switch" with the 18" radius curve built in. The N-scale Atlas turnouts are better, and in the case of the code 55 ones, quite a bit better, than that particular HO one. If you are curious about Atlas turnouts, and potential problems with them, you can read the attached pdf file. 

View attachment Improving Atlas turnouts.pdf


regards;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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