# Question re Peco PL-11 Motor Installation



## Just-a-Guy (Feb 11, 2013)

OK, I feel pretty dumb right now. My son and I tried to figure out how to install these things tonight after dinner. We have Peco Code 83 turnouts. We got the PL-11 motor working, fine (using a 16v AC power supply and a Peco PL-26 switch). And installing the motor itself next to a turnout seems pretty straightforward. But... um, all the pictures show a little nub coming up from the turnout arm (whatever it's called), that slips into a hole in the thing that moves back and forth on the motor (sorry, my technical terminology is somewhat lacking). Like in the picture below. But there is no such "nub" on my turnouts. How the heck do you connect the motor to the turnout, mechanically?


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## markgrecco (May 27, 2013)

Did you buy the turnout used? Could be they were cut off either to make it look better or they were interfering with other track. All my peco turnouts have them. I use the PL-10 though instead which mounts under the table and uses the little hole that is right in the center. 

You should also use a CDU for any solenoid type turnout motors (which the PL-11 and PL-10 are).

Mark


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

From your pic I don't see the 'nub' that is on my code 100 Pecos, one
each side, and a part of the throwbar that moves the points. As does Mark,
I use the Pl-10 under table motors which attach thru the 4 tiny square 
openings in the ties.

If you want to use the side mount PL-11 motors it looks like you'll have
to do some creative plastic work. Possibly you could super glue
a short plastic 'arm' to the throwbar. Then use a small dowel or
screw to attach the PL-11. 

And I sure I agree with Mark, power your twin coil motors with
a Capacitor discharge Unit. It will prevent burning out the
coils with inadvertently long 'presses'. Parts cost are less than
replacement of a motor.

Don


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## Just-a-Guy (Feb 11, 2013)

Thanks for the responses. Mark, no, I have 14 brand new Peco Code 83, turnouts, they are all the same (no "nub"). It's odd, because in all I have read about motor choices for Peco turnouts, I don't think I ever heard anyone mention this problem. But it seems rather basic. The PL-11's just do not appear to work with the Code 83 switches, at least not without modification of some sort. Grr. 

Looks like I will be ordering some PL-10's. I was hoping to use the above-board motors, being the paranoid type (easier to repair/replace in the event of a failure). 

Oh, and yes, I do plan to get a CDU. I figured I could get away with a quick test with just the switch, which seemed to work fine, but will be installing a CDU on the layout.

Thanks.

Mark


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## markgrecco (May 27, 2013)

I see. Mine are all code 100. I would say the PL-10 is easier to replace unless you are digging it into a foam base. It's actually a PL-10E (e for extended pin) you need if you are mounting on plywood. The PL-10 mounts directly to the ties as Don stated which you can see in the second picture. (I also have a PL-15 micro switch attached to it, the black part) I have 4 turnouts like that because they are on an elevated section so I carved out the foam and buried them. The rest of mine are mounted on the underside of the plywood using PL-10E (note you need PL-9 mounts for this, they come 5 in a pack). These will be easy to replace and it keeps all the wire under the table. You can see in the first picture that you just drill a slot in the table (in that case 2 slots because it's a 3-way turnout)

Mark


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I just looked at a number of code 83 Peco turnout pictures on
the web. Most seem to show the nub, but some are
not clear enough to determine. Those seem to be
the #6 Electrofrog and longer. 

I'm wondering if some models lack the nubs.

Perhaps you could email Peco directly give them
the model number of your turnouts and describe
the problem. Ask them what to do.

http://www.peco-uk.com/

Don


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## davy crockett (Apr 14, 2013)

Code 83 turnouts are not used with PL 11. You need to use PL 10 underboard motors.


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## Just-a-Guy (Feb 11, 2013)

davy crockett said:


> Code 83 turnouts are not used with PL 11. You need to use PL 10 underboard motors.


Thanks, that appears to be right. But in all my research, I think this is the first time I've read that. Oh well, live and learn....


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

There should be a more clear note regarding which motor to use
with the Code 83. I could find no mention of it yesterday.

It's a pain to install the Pl-10s that are attached to the turnout
itself. You must cut a hole thru your table of around 1" square
(dimenstions are on the package). To make your wiring
easier, solder Red,green,black drops on the PL-10 tabs before installing. That way
you can use wire nuts to complete your wiring.

You can use the PL10-E (or WE) which has an extended throw rod
and attach it to the bottom of the table. If you have thick foam
underlay you may have to use a sleeve and additional rod to make
the throw. I just gave up and cut the holes.

Don


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## Just-a-Guy (Feb 11, 2013)

DonR said:


> There should be a more clear note regarding which motor to use
> with the Code 83. I could find no mention of it yesterday.
> 
> It's a pain to install the Pl-10s that are attached to the turnout
> ...


Indeed, it's that pain in the buttt that made me look at using the PL-11's. I have 14 turnouts on this layout, most of them close together in a very busy section with three parallel tracks plus a couple of sidings. 

FYI, it's mostly all on two layers of 1 inch foam. I'm using two layers at that section so I can go up one inch on an outer loop and down one inch on an inner loop to create a range of elevations without major inclines (which some of my locos had trouble with). So the PL-10's can be set into the first layer of foam, and the drops can be run down through the second layer and through the 3/4 inch plywood base. At least that's what I'm assuming. I've now got to order some PL-10's. 

Anyway, thanks for the continuing help.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Saved by the foam.

Sure would be easier than cutting all those square holes
in the plywood.

But, if you are using the PL-10, attached to the ties you
don't want the extended version PL-10 E. I opted for the
PL-10 W because, thru a diode matrix, I throw several at the same time
with one button using a Cap Discharge unit.

Don


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## Just-a-Guy (Feb 11, 2013)

Thanks. I was pretty clear I didn't need the E version, but I've not been entirely clear why the W version exists. Since I don't know what a diode matrix is (is Neo involved in that?), I guess I'll just stick with a regular one.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Just-a-Guy said:


> Thanks. I was pretty clear I didn't need the E version, but I've not been entirely clear why the W version exists. Since I don't know what a diode matrix is (is Neo involved in that?), I guess I'll just stick with a regular one.


The W version draws less amperage than the PL-10. Thus, one burst of
juice can power more turnout motors.

A diode permits current to flow in one direction only.

In a yard, there are usually several turnouts in a path to
the track that is your destination. You can have the typical
2 buttons to throw EACH turnout, but that's a lot of bother.

In a diode matrix system you have ONE button IN each of, say 6,
yard tracks on your panel. When you push the button in 6, all turnouts
in your path are thrown at one time. This is accomplished
by connecting, with a diode, the turnout motors in the path.
The diodes block a backward flow from buttons in tracks
1,2,3,4 from activating those turnouts.

Just another little trick to make operating your layout more fun
and less work.

Don


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