# 5x10 HO Layout Question



## audioquest (Nov 29, 2011)

I am planning to build a 5x10 HO layout, what type of wood is recommended, thickness 1/4 5/8?any advise welcome
and best way to make a 5 x 10 using two pieces

Thanks in advance.


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## Dennis461 (Jan 5, 2018)

audioquest said:


> I am planning to build a 5x10 HO layout, what type of wood is recommended, any advise welcome
> 
> Thanks in advance.


DRY wood!
Be careful in the lumber store, you my be tempted to buy construction grade lumber which is still pretty green or wet which will 'move' drying out in your house.

Look for cabinet grade which is more likely to be dryer and thus more stable.

Plywood, finish grade on one side is also a good choice as it it more likely to be dry and stable.

e.g L girders can be made with 1x4 cabinet grade and 1x3 plywood strips.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

A/C grade 1/2" plywood and 1x4"'s are almost standard in the benchwork building stage of layout construction. 5/8" plywood is also used, but unless you have an incredible amount of weight to support it's rather overkill. Even for me.

Before plywood was cut and track laid, I could walk all over the top of my benchwork without even a shimmy, shake, or sag. But I tend to overbuild with some bad past experience as a youngster of building flimsy benchwork.

There are other materials, but none I would recommend for a good solid foundation for the rest of your layout.


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## 65446 (Sep 22, 2018)

I find no biggy prob using construction grade lumber.. If it were that bad the house framing industry wouldn't use it either. 
Bigger question: What kind of bench work are you planning ? A flat 5' x 10' plywood surface, cookie-cutter, open grid, or an L girder type ? 
If a flat surface and is not free standing, but against the wall/walls you will bummed out each time you try to reach across it to either install something in the back area or to rescue a stalled /derailed/uncoupled train..If so, plan an access hatch or open hole in the middle of the, usually 1/2" thick, ply...M


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## Chaostrain (Jan 27, 2015)

I would recommend going to Habitat for Humanity Restore to see about getting lumber. It's used so it's most likely very dry, which will eliminate the worry of shrinkage/warpage. Since you're going to cover it with landscaping nobody but you will know it's used, unless you tell them. Not to mention it's wayyy cheaper than new and helps a worthy cause. 1"X 4"s is great for the framing.

Personally if I was going for a flat layout with plywood I would probably go with a multiple of standard plywood size. That's what I did with my first layout. I had the room so I went with an 8'X12' so I could just lay 3 sheets of plywood down. Before I got that far, though, I saw the problem with accessing so I turned it into lattice work so I could have popups. 

My current layout we're going with 6' folding tables clamped together. Also it makes great for moving if I needed.

Anyway, that's my 2 cents worth.


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## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

Here's an alternate approach. If you're building a 5x10, look on craigslist for an old ping pong table. They are 9x5. If you find a vintage one, usually they're built absolutely bombproof, dry as a bone and cost less than the price of the lumber involved. You can easily overhang 6" on each end if you're using construction insulation foam as your surface which I would highly recommend.

Here's what I used for mine.
https://chicagovalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/2018/11/budget-railroading-4x8-plywood-or-maybe.html
Also note that a ping pong table might be shorter than you want, but I still think that lengthening the legs is easier than starting from scratch.


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## jimben (Jun 27, 2018)

If no supports are used under a 4x8 foot sheet of plywood, is not 5/8" ply mandatory?


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

There's little need to use anything heavier than
1X3 or 1X4 framing with 1/4" plywood. Maybe add
a couple of stringers across the frame. Make legs
using 2 of the boards screwed together as an L.
Bolt them in the corners of the frame. Use screws and bolts,
never nails. Be sure to level it. Makes a very sturdy train table,
easily taken apart or moved if necessary.

Don


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*5' x 10' layout*



audioquest said:


> I am planning to build a 5x10 HO layout, what type of wood is recommended, thickness 1/4 5/8?any advise welcome
> and best way to make a 5 x 10 using two pieces
> 
> Thanks in advance.


audioquest; 

If you are going to build a 5' x 10' layout (I don't recommend it, but it's your layout.*) I suggest building it in four 2.5' x 5' sections. If you plan to use 1-1/2" - 2" thick extruded foam insulation board as a scenery base, then I would glue 1/4" thick Luan plywood to the bottom of the foam and a 1" x 3" frame to the bottom of the Luan. You can make L- girders from 1" x 2" lumber screwed and glued to the 1" x 3" frame members to prevent warping. 

This will result in a very strong and stable foundation for your railroad. Using the materials recommended will keep the weight down, and the sectional construction will mean that you can take it with you if you have to move.

[*The reason I don't recommend building a "big rectangular slab table" layout is that it's a very different shape from a real railroad. Real railroads are many miles long, but except for major stations and yards, seldom more than 100 feet wide. A long narrow shelf layout, running around the walls, looks more like a real railroad than a train looping round and round a table does.]
The files attached below explain this concept, and lots of other model railroad info, which you may find helpful. 
Still, it's your railroad, so you are the one to decide what shape it should be.

good luck & have fun;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:

View attachment WHERE DO I START 3.pdf


View attachment 1 How to build a better first layout.pdf


View attachment 2 How to build a better first layout.pdf


View attachment 3 & 4 How to build a better first layout.pdf


View attachment 5 How to build a better first layout.pdf


View attachment All AboutTurnouts revised.pdf


View attachment MODEL RAILROADING ON A BUDGET.pdf


View attachment Model Railroad Terminology 2.2.pdf


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## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*5'x10' train table construction method.*

An Atlas booklet "6 railroads you can build"
COPYRIGHTED 1958,has step by step instructions on making

a5'x10' table frame in two half sections.

These can be found on eBay. I bought one in the 70's.
I'm sorry at this time I do not have the specific details at hand

They can be located on ebay.Basically your making two identical
frames five ft. square and bolting together with plywood 
support on the center, where the two 5' squares meet adding
"L"legs and plywood center support.
It's a good idea to put the legs on wheels also.
Good luck constructing your 5x10 table
Regards,tr1


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## timlange3 (Jan 16, 2013)

Audioquest, would like to know more about your track plan that requires the 5' x 10' size. That may help determine the construction.

You may find ripping 3/4" plywood into dimensional sizes, such as 1" x 4" is actually 3/4" x 3 1/2" will be cheaper and more stable. You may also make the sizes to exactly what you want and save more.

If your 5' x 10' is a oval, then rethink and do two 1' x 8' and connect their ends with two 1' x 6'. You may need some triangles in the inside corners to have benchwork supporting your curves. Do a web search for "Heart Of Georgia model railroad" to see what I'm talking about.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

You could also have NO plywood. L girder joists on 24" centers supporting 2" extruded foam board will hold my weight. Thee are probably as many ways to build bench work as there are modelers.

Your level of woodworking skill and the tools you have available to a long way to determining what you can or should do.


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## seacoast (Sep 12, 2010)

CTValleyRR said:


> You could also have NO plywood. L girder joists on 24" centers supporting 2" extruded foam board will hold my weight. Thee are probably as many ways to build bench work as there are modelers.
> 
> Best response yet! 2” foam blue board is lightweight and very useable. Even for O scale or 3 rail you don’t need heavy 1/2” plywood unless your standing on it.


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