# Sticky  Repairing cracked/broken insulators.



## flyernut

I'm sure we've all have experienced broken/cracked/loose white insulators on AF..Here's how I do my repairs, with my usual poor pictures,lol!!.. If I'm doing a major repair on a customer's engine with broken or cracked insulators, I'll take the engine right down to the bare chassis and de-grease..I'll use my wheel puller and break down the wheel to it's 3 components, wheel, insulator, and center hub. I'll do a clean-up using CRC and remove all gunk from the insides of the wheel and center hub.After a cleaning and degreasing, I'll paint the center hub with flat black paint, and if it happens to be a blind driver with the brass stud, I'll remove that with a punch and re-install after the paint dries. Inspect the wheel and check to see if the small, little groove is clean and devoid of any grease, plastic insulators, etc. In my opinion, that small groove will enable the white insulators to better hold to the wheel.. Before anything gets glued I check to see if the center rim will fit inside the insulator. 100% of the repo white insulators I have purchased are too small, and need to be sanded to fit.. Sometimes you have to sand too much, and the white insulator will be narrow, not like an original. What I do to avoid that is to chuck up the center rim with an axle into my drill press and remove around .002 or a little more from the center hub using a file against the spinning hub until it fits snugly but not too tight. I've found a new supplier of the insulators and he has assured me I won't have to do that in the future.. I haven't received my shipment of them yet, but when I do, I'll drop his name here... After I like the fitment, I work up a batch of JB Weld and go to town. If any of the JB Weld gets unto the white insulator, a quick wipe of rubbing alcohol removes it. I then set it aside and proceed to the next one... After everything is set up, 24 hours or more, I run a 4-40 tap through the hole attaching the side rod, and through the brass stud, if there is one. I know folks like to use CA or a 5 minute epoxy, but I like JB Weld for a more permanent repair.I then clean up the wheel using a bright-boy and viola, all done and waiting for an engine that needs the repaired wheel.


----------



## AF-Doc'

Greetings, Thank you for this valuable information on the wheel rebuilds. The ones you have completed look good as or Better that new. I have more that my share of wheels that need rebuilding so when you get in your new insulators and they work please let us know as I'm sure we all need some.
Thanks again for some great work and pictures.
Doc


----------



## flyernut

AF-Doc' said:


> Greetings, Thank you for this valuable information on the wheel rebuilds. The ones you have completed look good as or Better that new. I have more that my share of wheels that need rebuilding so when you get in your new insulators and they work please let us know as I'm sure we all need some.
> Thanks again for some great work and pictures.
> Doc


Not a problem.. I told the new supplier that if his wheels are all they claim to be, I'll endorse his product here on the forum, and I will supply his name. I contacted him this evening and he assured me that my new insulators are on their way.


----------



## flyernut

flyernut said:


> Not a problem.. I told the new supplier that if his wheels are all they claim to be, I'll endorse his product here on the forum, and I will supply his name. I contacted him this evening and he assured me that my new insulators are on their way.


I meant to say "insulators", not "wheels".


----------



## flyernut

The one problem I do find is getting the axle to start "straight". I'm going to have my buddy machine a fixture to start the axle in the correct position.


----------



## alaft61ri

Looks good. How are you feeling. Lot bettet i hope.
Al


----------



## flyernut

alaft61ri said:


> Looks good. How are you feeling. Lot bettet i hope.
> Al


So far, no migraines or trips to the ER. I'm on Emagality, a self-injected hypo that seems to be working great, but the cost is crazy, and I'm also working on that too. Thanks for asking!


----------



## flyernut

As a after-thought, he has 2 shades of white; bright white, and a off-white that mimic the originals.


----------



## T-Man

Have you considered posting this in the gallery?. You could start a S scale maintenance section covering the basics.


----------



## alaft61ri

👍


----------



## AFGP9

Great information flyernut! After you get your machinist buddy to build a jig for straight starting, I would say ya got in figured out! Glad to hear that medicine is working for your migraines. 
Please keep us informed. 

Kenny


----------



## flyernut

AFGP9 said:


> Great information flyernut! After you get your machinist buddy to build a jig for straight starting, I would say ya got in figured out! Glad to hear that medicine is working for your migraines.
> Please keep us informed.
> 
> Kenny


The jig is up!!..Check under "axle installer".


----------



## T-Man

They look great! Time for a sticky.


----------



## TimmyD

T-Man said:


> They look great! Time for a sticky.


Thanks!  I somehow missed that one!


----------



## T-Man

Instead of just a quick fix, the pain now will be worth the results.


----------



## flyernut

I've used the suppliers off-white and bright white, and the off-white wins hands down. I still feel the need to sand down the insides of the insulator for a better fit.. The supplier is on ebay, and his name is Jason Strickler...He also sells the quartering jigs.


----------



## AmFlyer

Agree, I have seen both. The off white looks original, the bright white has an almost translucent appearance.


----------



## alaft61ri

I never thought of painting the middle pice where insulater goes good I dear thanks for the information for buying insulators.
Al


----------

