# Power On New Layout



## JimiGibbs (Feb 17, 2012)

Complete newbee here..... I just put together my first layout (see below). It is MTH RealTrax with a Z-1000 transformer hooked up to the outside loop using the MTH Lock-On. My problem is I am not getting any power to the inside loop. No lights on the inside switches. When I turn the outside switch and the train passes over I briefly get a light on the inside switch before the train stops running because of no juice. Do I have to have a transformer for the inside loop as well or am I not setting the switches properly? Thanks for your help....
Jimi


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## JimiGibbs (Feb 17, 2012)

I'll try attaching the picture.... Sorry


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Did you put any power drops on the inside loop? I think the MTH switches don't have continuity through the switches.


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

JimiGibbs said:


> Do I have to have a transformer for the inside loop as well or am I not setting the switches properly?


One transformer is enough. You do need to get power to the other side of the turnouts.


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## JimiGibbs (Feb 17, 2012)

Wow... I never expected that.  I thought the switch would direct the power. How about the spur at the top of the layout. Do I need to run power to that as well? If I add another transformer to the inner loop could I run 2 trains? One inner and one outer? My plan was to park one train on the spur and run another on the inner and outer loops but sometimes run one inner and one outer.... Is that possible? Sorry for all the questions but this is all new to me.
Thanks,
Jimi


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You can run the power drops through a switch panel so you can energize sections as required. This will allow you to run the two loops from one or two different power sources, as well as adjust power to the siding as required.


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## JimiGibbs (Feb 17, 2012)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> You can run the power drops through a switch panel so you can energize sections as required. This will allow you to run the two loops from one or two different power sources, as well as adjust power to the siding as required.


Thanks for the reply... Can you explain the above? I've been doing some reading on the web and I saw on the MTH website on a page titled "Wiring a Crossover with MTH RealTrax the statement "Another way around this situation is to run a jumper wire between the center-wiring terminals (ACG) of each switch. This ties the grounds (actually I think it should be common) of the switches to themselves, and makes sure that the ground from the transformer is shared by both lines". (link below) Just not sure exactly where to make that connection. Going to play with it on the bench today.....
Thanks,
Jimi

http://www.mth-railking.com/service...ack_Transformer/Track/RealTrax/crossover.html


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

They're talking about wiring a jumper around the switch to power both sides. I don't have MTH switches, so I don't know if the center rail is continuous, but that's a problem area for some switches.

You make the connections on each end of the switch. Are you familiar with the non-derailing feature of such switches? Here's a brief description of the Lionel switches, the MTH feature works the same way.




> Lionel switches equipped with the non derailing feature (three rail) have an insulated rail at the end of each track on the split end of the switch. The switch operates by means of two electromagnetic coils wired oppositely, surrounding a plunger. The plunger is mechanically connected to the moving mechanism of the switch. One coil supply is permanently connected to the center power rail, except in the #022 O gauge switch where a constant power plug can replace it. The other supply of each coil is connected to the controller, where either can be connected through the third controller wire to ground. That will energize that coil and move the plunger in that direction. In non-derailing the insulated rails are also connected to the appropriate coil to clear trains coming from that direction. When the train axles bridge that rail to the ground rail, the switch will move to pass it automatically and thus avoid derailments in an open switch. Since the insulated rail is at the end of the switch, an insulated track pin is needed to prevent a permanent connection to ground. The length of the insulated rail can be increased by connecting an insulated rail track to the switch insulated rail. One problem is that when power is supplied and a train is stopped on the switch, the coil will remain energized as long as the rail is bridged. The #022 switch avoids this with a series of contacts inside that deactivate the coil when it is already in the proper direction.


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## ktcards (Sep 22, 2012)

JimiGibbs said:


> Complete newbee here..... I just put together my first layout (see below). It is MTH RealTrax with a Z-1000 transformer hooked up to the outside loop using the MTH Lock-On. My problem is I am not getting any power to the inside loop. No lights on the inside switches. When I turn the outside switch and the train passes over I briefly get a light on the inside switch before the train stops running because of no juice. Do I have to have a transformer for the inside loop as well or am I not setting the switches properly? Thanks for your help....
> Jimi


Rather than guessing the first thing you need to do is go to Radio Shack and invest $20.00 in a multimeter. This way you can check your track voltage and find out what jumpers you might need to install.

I havehad one for years and it has been invaluable in sorting out electrical problems on my HO layout.

Ray


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I recommend a clamp-on current meter for an O-gauge layout, it's very valuable to be able to measure current without disconnecting things. Of course, they also measure AC and DC voltage, as well as resistance. I have several of these, the one that I use the most is this inexpensive one from Harbor Freight.

6 Function Mini Digital Clamp Meter $11.99


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## JimiGibbs (Feb 17, 2012)

Thanks for the replies.... I have a multimeter and that is what I used to check the voltage..... Then after looking at it for a while I realized where the jumper needs to be when two switches are placed back to back. Rather than a jumper at the switch I just hard wired the inside and outside loop.
Then I used the multimeter again to run through why the light on the spur switch would not come on. I could pull the switch block off and place it on another switch and it would work fine. After 45 minutes and no luck I put it back on the track..... Then some time later when I was wiring the track I realized that the jumper for track power was missing. Oh well that fixed it.....
Thanks again for the help. I'm sure this is just the first of many newbee questions. 
Jimi


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

We live for newbie questions, makes us feel smart.


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