# Ohh crap, bought a DCC loco by mistake



## Dennis461 (Jan 5, 2018)

Ohh crap, bought a DCC loco by mistake.
Can not run in double heading with my DC locos.

Going to gut out the tender.
Not ready to open up the locomotive.
Which wires are;
motor
light
Bachmann Spectrum 2-8-0


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## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

Maybe you'd be better off looking for a trade for a DC version?


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

Can’t those locomotives run on DC as well?


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

Generally, you can run DCC steamers with DC locomotives. The decoders since about 2004 are all 'dual-mode', a setting found in factory defaults in CV29 (value of 38). If you have a decent runner, it should be inclined to begin to move a little after the voltage where the DC locomotive wants to move, more or less. They 'should' run compatibly, but you should trial the two to see if one struggles to keep up.

Sorry, I can't advise on which materials to mangle/remove, but I WOULD advise against it if a DC version could be had.


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## cid (Jul 3, 2014)

Hi Dennis, isn't that an 8-pin decoder plug on the light board? Then, you just unplug the decoder, 
jumper a couple of pins on the plug (a jumper plug is available), and it's back to being a DC model.
I think, could be wrong.


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## cid (Jul 3, 2014)




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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

If you _*tear out*_ the entire decoder and light board, you'll lose any control over lighting under dc operation as well, I would think.

I see your best options as:
- run the loco "as it is", even if you have to run it as a single engine
*or*
- pull out the decoder and either buy or make an 8-pin "dummy plug". This will convert it to dc operation and I'm going to GUESS that the lights will remain functional.

If you have a local hobby shop around, they might GIVE YOU an 8-pin dummy plug for the light board (assuming it will fit -- can't be sure looking at the pic you posted above).

_Hmmmm..._
One other option:
Time to "go dcc"!


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## cid (Jul 3, 2014)

Like he said. See the pic I posted for the pinout. With pins 2 and 6 connected
as shown, the lights should work as normal in conjunction with the loco direction.


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## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

Just got a better look at the picture and would amend my earlier suggestion to trade to instead agree that you should just get a jumper plug. 

You'll likely retain some good light functionality and if you save the decoder you'll be in a very good position if you decide to sell later.


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## Dennis461 (Jan 5, 2018)

It can run on DC. But does not run when double heading. Or runs "backwards".
I will run single for a while. 
Thanks for wiring tips. 
There is also no 8-pin plug. It has a 4-pin and a 2-pin.

wire color 
Brown Red Orange Yellow
Red Black


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## 65446 (Sep 22, 2018)

If it can't run on DC or that you can't consist it with others, I like Eilif's idea in post *#2*.....
OR, is it out of the question to convert to DCC the whole layout ? An NCE PowerCab is about $165. and you'd already have one great DCC/[sound ?] loco !! This Connie especially, is one of Bachmann's gems....At least the HO one is, as I owned one (*Don't ask* !! Doh !!) 🏬🏭🛤🌄🌵


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## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

Dennis461 said:


> It can run on DC. But does not run when double heading. Or runs "backwards".
> I will run single for a while.
> Thanks for wiring tips.
> There is also no 8-pin plug. It has a 4-pin and a 2-pin.
> ...


I bet a call to Bachman could get you a jumper or at least a method for wiring a jump that would move it to DC operation.


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

Dennis461 said:


> There is also no 8-pin plug. It has a 4-pin and a 2-pin.


Are you sure? That decoder looks to me like it's connected to an 8 pin plug on that board. Not talking about the connections for the tender to the locomotive.


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## Dennis461 (Jan 5, 2018)

OK.
I've started cruising the Bachmann FAQ's and forum.
Sent them a question also.

Is the 8-pin plug BETWEEN two components?
The larger screwed down circuit board would remain in place?
Is the thing in between fingers the DCC board (Bachmann part 44915, DCC decoder)?

Wire colors do not match those listed in post #6.
Thanks again for help.
Not ready to go DCC on my tiny layout.


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## cid (Jul 3, 2014)

Yes Dennis, you are holding the decoder. Yes, the circuit board would remain in place. Unplug the decoder and set it aside for posterity.
Then jumper the appropriate pins in the socket, or get a jumper plug, as suggested. You can likely find some Molex pins or the like
to fit in the socket and create your jumpers. The socket pin positions are numbered on the circuit board. This is a DCC standard.
Not sure why there is a discrepancy in wire colors, but they all seem to be there in the photo.


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

In the pic below, the red oval shows where the 8-pin connector is.

The thin orange line indicates the actual "plug" that lifts away from the connector.
BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN REMOVING THIS.
Use a flat-bladed screwdriver and GENTLY "work the plug upwards" from either side until it can be lifted out.

You will note that on the light board, there are four numbers:
1
4
5
8
These are used to "line up" the dummy plug which needs to be put in place once you have lifted out the decoder plug.

You want to get the orientation correct when you put the dummy plug in.
The #1 pin should have the orange wire.


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## Dennis461 (Jan 5, 2018)

OK great.
I jumpered 1-8
and
4-5
Motor runs forward and backwards as expected in DC control mode.
The headlight is a little tougher, I may have to open up the locomotive.

UPDATE
Got the light working!
Jumpered pins 1, 2 & 8 and pins 4, 5 & 6.


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## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

Congratulations!


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## cid (Jul 3, 2014)

Excellent! Glad it worked!


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## Dennis461 (Jan 5, 2018)

Varney helper in the lead, Bachmann at head of train.


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

Whoo, whoo!


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## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

Glad to see it all worked out and they appear to work well together. 
Thanks for sharing the outcome of this!


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## Dennis461 (Jan 5, 2018)

Well, I have run this for a while now.
Put the decoder BACK IN and ordered some Arduino clone boards, downloaded JMRI software and may take the DCC++ plunge!


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## ecmdrw5 (Jan 16, 2021)

Dennis461 said:


> Well, I have run this for a while now.
> Put the decoder BACK IN and ordered some Arduino clone boards, downloaded JMRI software and may take the DCC++ plunge!


Let me know how that goes. I built a usb button panel for sim racing but I didn’t program the Arduino. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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