# My 334DC Northern



## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

I dug out my Northern to see what condition it is in since it had been stored for years. It seems to be in really good condition considering its age. When my father got it, it didn't run. He never got it fixed. I eventually took it to a repair shop years later and had them go over it. When I got it back, I never tried using it because I didn't have the rectifier, although they did run it at the shop to show me it worked. This was a good 25-30 years ago. Any idea if there is a way to test it without a rectifier??


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## 2genflyers (Jan 14, 2013)

Nuttin,

Although I'm not an electronics expert I believe a properly sized diode might work in a pinch. A diode limits electrical "flow" to only one direction. Since normal household AC power alternates the direction at 60 hertz then diode will essentially block the flow from one direction while allowing the flow in the other...60 times a sec, creating DC current. Not a long term solution but might be ok for a quick test.

Don't blame me if your house burns down!

Please, there must be another lurker out there with more electrical knowledge than me. Just couldn't stand watching Nuttin flap in the breeze for much longer!!!


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

You could always build one, they're fairly cheap to make. There was a discussion on that found HERE.

Carl


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## 2genflyers (Jan 14, 2013)

Chum works every time!

Keep it going Nuttin and you'll get more fish (suckers).


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Thanks for the ideas, however after digging deep in all my boxes, I found the #15 rectifier. I connected it and tried this baby out. I was disappointed it ran very, very slow -- but it runs !!! I guess a little servicing is needed to clean out all the gunk, dirt and old grease, then hopefully, it will run faster. I have a video on youtube so you can see it. If you listen closely, you can hear the choo-choo sound, however it does not yet blow smoke -- maybe too slow??

http://youtu.be/-5SLnXrRces
http://youtu.be/U4gCJyPv8Ak


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

I wrote to Tom Barker about a method to test my #15 rectifier to see if it was indeed functioning properly. He recommended I build a rectifier based on his plan in his book and save the #15 as a collector item. That kind of surprised me as the Greenberg Price Guide doesn't give it much value. But whatever the Master says.....

I would like to work on the #334DC Northern and see if I can get her running up to full song. I had thought about a new project and maybe this one is it. Certainly shouldn't need much except a good cleaning, a check-up and one new handrail on the tender. And as part of this project, I might take Tom's advice and make my own rectifier.

I have a couple of HO power transformers in my stash -- aren't these DC current? Could one of these be used to run that ole girl?


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

I have been looking at my Northern sitting on the layout since I posted the previous video and it has been eating away at me that it does not move properly. So I decided to give her some servicing.

I have taken it apart by removing the motor assembly, the armature and pinion, field and brush bracket. I plan to clean it thoroughly, lube it and reassemble it replacing any worn or broken parts in the process.

I already found that the RH rear handrail is missing from the tender, so I will need one of those. I knew previously that the RH front number board was missing, so I got a replacement some time ago and planned to install it.

However, much to my dismay, I noticed the LH front number board was slightly bent and when I tried to remove it to straighten it, it broke off. You cannot imagine the pain I felt when this happened. Yet with inner strength, I accepted my mistake and now must move forward toward a resolution to repair it as well as a method to install the RH one I also have. I thought these were in place with push-in pins much like the handrails are installed or the bells on an Atlantic boiler shell. Apparently this is not the case. They seem to be placed over a cast locating pin, then that pin is dimpled with a mechanical process to keep the number board in place.

Anyone able to expand on this or have you been in this situation before? How would I repair this? I'd hate to have to dump a lump of JB Weld on these boards to keep them in place.


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

I have now posted some photos to help explain the problems....

First we have my girl spread out on the operating table. The close-up shots of the boiler show where the two number boards are supposed to be fastened at the top front of the boiler each side. There are no pins to remove. It seems like something was cast into the boiler shell like a pin or boss, the number board set on it, then they mechanically deformed the cast pin/boss to keep it in place. I could grind off the excess, but have no clue how to reset the new items. 

The tender was disassembled to reveal the internal items. A webpage I found lists the specifications for post-war American Flyer steam locomotives. The 334DC is listed with an electronic whistle. I remember as a kid, when my father bought a bundle of items from the guy down the street, including the 334DC, 2 electronic whistle controls were in with the package. A photo of one of these controls is posted here. So it seems very apparent that with the internal components shown in the tender, one of these controls must somehow blow the whistle inside the tender. I have no idea how, I have no idea if it works and I have no idea how to test or check the components to see if they are functional. 

So the purpose of these photos is to give you an idea what I face with the number board repairs and the testing and/or repair of the internal whistle. Hopefully some of you have experienced these issues and can offer some "enlightenment". Thank you all for your insight and comments.


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Sorry ....here are the photos 

I also did another stupid thing that resulted in taking a chunk out of the smoke stack. 

Maybe I should just submit myself to lethal injection and put myself out of misery......


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

I'm guessing this pic shows where the number boards attached originally?







You could try finding a piece of round styrene or similar material sized to fit the hole in the boards. Grind off the excess and drill holes just large enough to hold the new "pins" securely.

Carl


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Yes, actually a slight corner of the piece is still attached where it broke free.

I spoke with a gentleman at a show this past weekend who has done extensive Flyer service. He told me that the boiler shell was cast with a small raised area, much like a pin. The number board was inserted over it and a tool deformed it with a sort of "star-shaped" imprint. This provided enough deformity to keep the number board in place. Sounds almost like the link coupler pins when they are installed. :thumbsup:

Nonetheless, he recommended I try to rotate the old number board back and forth several times to "loosen" it on the remnants of the locating pin and eventually lift it off. When installing a new one, I should insert it over the remnants of the pin and hold it fast with superglue. Not exactly what I expected, but I guess not much else can be done?? 

I did buy a repro number board from this guy to replace the one I broke. Think I'll wait until she is all back together running well before attempting that repair. hwell:

Also, take notice to the green-colored dimples in the boiler front. At first I thought they were supposed to have green jewels inside. But this gentleman informed me that they did not -- just painted green.  Kinda sad, because those jewels would look terrific if they were inside there. I know, nothing says I can't add them. But I like to try to keep my vintage Flyers as original as possible. If I were customizing one, that would be a different story.


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