# Pop a cork!



## Chip (Feb 11, 2016)

Have two boxes of "Midwest" HO cork roadbed and am about to attempt to use it. ANY advice about this stuff will be greatly needed as I'm a total "newb" at this. I am confident in my track laying (had several hundred feet of track down on bare MDF and all ran good) but have never used cork before.

I Thank All in advance for any help, guidance, pictures, and or tips/tricks you have discovered.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I use foam roadbed, however the install is
about the same. For curves you cut down
the middle. That lets you lay a smooth
roadbed. Use very little adhesive, a dab
here and there. I use Elmer's but many
suggest caulk.

I like to use the roadbed on mainlines, but lay the
yard and spur tracks without it right onto the
foam table topping. Check how your local
railroads lay their main and spur tracks.

Don


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## Bwells (Mar 30, 2014)

I use cork exclusivly and love it. With a track center line drawn, I use a hot glue gun and once the cork is separated I lay about a 6-8 inch bead of glue on one side 1/4" from center a quickly place the cork rubbing with my fingers to even it out. Next, I slowly lift the remaining cork back to the glue being very careful not to break it at the last glue point and then do another bead and place cork and repeat. I will do the length I can get out of one squeeze of the trigger. Once the outside is layed, the inside goes much faster as you are not following a line but simply butting to what you have down. Two tricks though, any glue that oozed out of the first cork strip towards the center needs to be removed with an exacto so as not to create a lump on the other side. Also, when you separate the cork strips, you will notice pieces of cork on the top of the bevel of one. I try to place this on the outside in order to sand it off after placement with a sanding block with coarse paper. Very necessary if you plan on ballast.


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## santafealltheway (Nov 27, 2012)

A lot of people glue theirs down but i prefer using atlas track nails.

I just clamp them good and tight in a pair of vise-grips and drive them in with light pressure and a twisting motion.


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## Bwells (Mar 30, 2014)

You use track nails for fastening cork? Keep in mind he has MDF as a base, about as hard as concrete!


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## santafealltheway (Nov 27, 2012)

Bwells said:


> You use track nails for fastening cork? Keep in mind he has MDF as a base, about as hard as concrete!


yup. I also have MDF shelves. with the twisting motion, they sink right in.

makes it a breeze to pull the cork up if you dont like how its set.


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## Chip (Feb 11, 2016)

EXCELLENT! Thanks guys, good stuff, I already have some "liquid nail" type caulk and will be trying that first. The cork will be on the MDF , W.S. foam riser starters and wood at different places on the layout. Now I have several hundred feet of the old track to take up and organize.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Liquid Nails*



Chip said:


> EXCELLENT! Thanks guys, good stuff, I already have some "liquid nail" type caulk and will be trying that first. The cork will be on the MDF , W.S. foam riser starters and wood at different places on the layout. Now I have several hundred feet of the old track to take up and organize.


 If the "Liquid Nails caulk" you have will touch the Woodland Senics risers, or any other foam; make sure it's labeled "Liquid Nails FOR PROJECTS. This, "projects" type will not harm Styrofoam. Regular Liquid Nails will destroy Styrofoam.

Traction Fan


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## Chip (Feb 11, 2016)

traction fan said:


> If the "Liquid Nails caulk" you have will touch the Woodland Senics risers, or any other foam; make sure it's labeled "Liquid Nails FOR PROJECTS. This, "projects" type will not harm Styrofoam. Regular Liquid Nails will destroy Styrofoam.
> 
> Traction Fan


THANX! Of course I did not LOOK at what I was buying and did not KNOW there was a difference and of COURSE I got the "rong" kind! LOL! I'll use it in places where there is no foam and get the "proper" stuff for the risers. WHEW! Those riser starters are not THAT pricey but I'd hate to ruin it from ignorance and not the normal clumsy destruction that just occurs wherever I go.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

Thin layer of caulk works better than white glue and its easier to remove and re-lay if you notice a mistake. I use Dynaflex230 as it comes in a squeeze tube, I just don't need a lot and the caulking gun has Liquid Nails for projects in it. Use a putty knife or some take a credit card (the fake ones) cut some small notches in it and use that. use the same technique to put down the track. You can weight it with an assortment of canned veggies or what ever you have in the pantry.


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## Chip (Feb 11, 2016)

Lemonhawk said:


> Thin layer of caulk works better than white glue and its easier to remove and re-lay if you notice a mistake. I use Dynaflex230 as it comes in a squeeze tube, I just don't need a lot and the caulking gun has Liquid Nails for projects in it. Use a putty knife or some take a credit card (the fake ones) cut some small notches in it and use that. use the same technique to put down the track. You can weight it with an assortment of canned veggies or what ever you have in the pantry.


COOL, I actually have an old scree my Grandfather made for laying tile. I'll use that and lead ingots left over from when I was DEEP into muzzle loading. It can be a pain but I'm glad I'm a pack-rat and throw NOTHING away that "might come in handy some day"!


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

My wife drinks that silk milk that come in boxes so that what I use. Those boxes just fit the track and can work standing up or laying down! Lead ingots sounds like just the ticket. I also use one of the snapoff blade knives to "release" either the cork or the the track as if you get the bigger kind you can get the knife blade under the whole thing and just slice along freeing the offending part. I use CV ties so I don't have a big problem with curves. Pilobond is use to hold the track to the ties, actually goes quickly. A few years back I tore up all the code 100 flex track and replaced with CV ties and code 83 rail. In the process I've learned (and am still learning) how to make my own turnouts. One of my better decisions! And no I did not buy any Fasttrak stuff - way to expensive and not really need if you use CV ties even if you make your on frogs.


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## time warp (Apr 28, 2016)

I always use plywood base, so I nail down my cork with Atlas track nails. Always have.
As far as adhesive goes, you can't beat cheap painters caulk. Very strong bond. Use brown caulk for roadbed so you won't have to deal with white ooze. Works great for Styrofoam too.


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## The New Guy (Mar 11, 2012)

time warp said:


> ...you can't beat cheap...


:smilie_daumenpos:


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