# dm9249's HO Basement Layout



## dm9249 (Aug 13, 2013)

I've been planning this HO scale layout for a while now and finally took the first step to having running trains for the first time since I was probably 10 years old (about 15 years now). I had been working on a static shelf layout/diorama, but got bored with it because there wouldn't be any running trains. 

Here is the track plan I'm starting with. I know it will likely changes as I go, but you have to start somewhere, right? Overall the table size is 144" x 66" and I plan on building the benchwork at 42" tall. 









This is the area I plan to put the layout. It will be up against the wall on the one side, but the other three sides will be fully accessible. 









I've started putting the frame together for the benchwork. Now I just need to add 1x3 supports between the main cross members. Then it will need some legs and a plywood top.


----------



## bluenavigator (Aug 30, 2015)

Sweet layout! Seem that it is 5 1/2' x 12' layout.


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Now would be a good time to drill holes in all of your cross braces for
the wiring you'll be installing. It's easier when the frame is open,
as it is, than drilling holes crawling under.

Don


----------



## dm9249 (Aug 13, 2013)

DonR said:


> Now would be a good time to drill holes in all of your cross braces for
> the wiring you'll be installing. It's easier when the frame is open,
> as it is, than drilling holes crawling under.
> 
> Don


That's a great idea, I'll have to make sure I remember to do that before I fasten down the plywood.


----------



## dm9249 (Aug 13, 2013)

bluenavigator said:


> Sweet layout! Seem that it is 5 1/2' x 12' layout.


Thanks! I wanted something more than 4'x8' but wanted to keep the overall shape simple, so this seemed to work just right in the space I have.


----------



## dm9249 (Aug 13, 2013)

I got the rest of the framework put together tonight and also assembled the four legs. Now I just need to bring down the rest of the OSB for the top and finish putting everything together. Here are some more pics:


----------



## dm9249 (Aug 13, 2013)

Made some more progress on the benchwork earlier tonight. I would've done more but I had to leave for my hockey game at 11:00. Here are some pics:


























The legs aren't fastened in place yet, I just put them on there to see how they would look and fit. By the way, I just realized that I forgot to drill the holes in the frame for wiring  so I'll have to do that while its still upside down on the floor.


----------



## bluenavigator (Aug 30, 2015)

Good progress! I think that it might be necessary to add legs at the corners, in case that the edges will not slang.


----------



## cole226 (Feb 8, 2013)

i understand keeping the legs under the table a bit, but i would move them a little closer to the outside and add some diagnols. JMO

to far under and the table will tip if you lean on it


----------



## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

The platform looks plenty solid so the legs could easily be placed where you have them, however I would be more concerned about leaning on the outer edge and tipping the platform with the legs so far interior. I'm sure you can work out a compromise that will keep the legs in far enough that you don't keep "kicking" them as you walk around yet still allow you to lean on the table. Nice looking platform!


----------



## dm9249 (Aug 13, 2013)

Thanks for the info, I'll think about moving them outboard a bit. I did plan on some connections from leg to leg so hopefully that will help too.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

I'd just anchor the legs to the concrete rather than move them outboard. It's REALLY nice not hitting your shins on the legs, and you can easily add a simple 1x2 angle brace from the legs up to the edges of the table to provide additional support. If you also then place a single lateral brace between the legs in the same plane as the angles - it would be rock solid.

You'll be glad you went bigger than a 4x8 - those larger radii and larger turnouts will make your trains more reliable (less derailments) and thus, more enjoyable.


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Those L legs can provide a very stable support when you double bolt
them in a corner 'pocket'. I would move them to the four outside
corners and add another pair across the middle. You shouldn't
need braces between them. Be sure to add leveling devices before
you install them. And drill your wire holes.

Don


----------



## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

DonR said:


> Those L legs can provide a very stable support when you double bolt
> them in a corner 'pocket'. I would move them to the four outside
> corners and add another pair across the middle. You shouldn't
> need braces between them. Be sure to add leveling devices before
> ...


While I think this is sound advice, I wish to make a case for cross braces -- even with double-bolted L legs. I inherited a 4 ft x 8 ft layout that was just like this -- 1 x 4 L legs in the corners which were double-bolted diagonally. However, If I bumped the layout, it still wiggled -- just a little -- usually not enough to derail anything, but enough to get cars to wobble.

I added cross braces -- 2 at each corner. Now it is as solid as a rock. If I bump into the layout, I kind of bounce off, but the table hardly budges or shakes at all.

Wood is flexible, and bolt holes can loosen up over time. I'd advise cross bracing your corners. My cross braces are just 1x2 s with one screw at each end. If one is in the way of some wiring or under-table construction, I can quickly remove it and replace it when I am done -- or move it to avoid something else that needs to be there.


----------



## RailRider777 (Aug 11, 2015)

Wow, quite the set up :thumbsup:
Cant wait to see it finished!


----------



## dm9249 (Aug 13, 2013)

This is my new plan for the leg positions. I think this will help keep the table from tipping if I lean on the edge.









Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Gonna nag here.

You're losing the stability inherent in the L leg design when
you attach it using only one side of the L. It becomes little
more than a 1 X 4 leg and likely the table will not be stable.
I Highly recommend
that you attach those legs in a 'corner' where both sides of the
leg are bolted to the frame. If you don't want the legs near
the front of the table, add cross braces so they form a 'corner'
to which you can bolt both sides of the leg L.


Don


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Don is right. Or, if you don't want to move the legs, at least add a small gussett or angle brace to each leg.

Also, you don't need to add any more bracing on the joists, unless you're planning to use it as a step ladder or storm shelter.


----------



## dm9249 (Aug 13, 2013)

I just bought some extra 1x4 from home depot to create a corner for each leg to be bolted into. I'll try to post some updated pics later tonight.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## cole226 (Feb 8, 2013)

for myself, i would add the 1x4 as u plan. and i would fasten the legs with screws and wood glue. i would also put 2 short diagnols from legs to 1x4 screwed and glued.

thats just me, but i know nothing would move then.


----------



## dm9249 (Aug 13, 2013)

Well, the benchwork is free standing now. Just needs a couple more supports along the long sides between legs and probably some additional diagonal supports on the short ends. Here are some updated pics:

This one shows the added 1x4's that allowed me to bolt the L-shaped legs on both sides.









Here is the table standing upright. Definitely happy with the progress so far considering I only started the benchwork last weekend.


----------



## dm9249 (Aug 13, 2013)

I have to say I am really excited about finally being able to lay some track out on a physical table top now. Can't wait to really get into this.









Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

I like what you did with the legs, looks pretty sturdy.
Keep us posted. 

Magic


----------



## bluenavigator (Aug 30, 2015)

With that, it will work okay. I would have gone with "X" crossmembers. Either way, it still will work fine. 

Can't wait to see your progress on that giant table!


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Have you thought about adding foam on top before you lay the rail?
Or maybe paint the table a base coat beforehand?


----------



## dm9249 (Aug 13, 2013)

Yes the plan is to add a layer of foam. I just couldn't resist getting some track out and playing around with it.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I would brace the legs in the long dimension of the table as well. A short piece of 1x3 mitered to a 45 degree angle at each end would suffice, and you could screw it in to the next joist over. Other than that, you're on your way! Have fun and keep us posted.


----------



## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

dm9249 said:


> Well, the benchwork is free standing now. Just needs a couple more supports along the long sides between legs and probably some additional diagonal supports on the short ends. Here are some updated pics:
> 
> This one shows the added 1x4's that allowed me to bolt the L-shaped legs on both sides.
> 
> Here is the table standing upright. Definitely happy with the progress so far considering I only started the benchwork last weekend.


The horizontal supports near the floor have the disadvantage of requiring you to crawl over them each time that you go under the table for wiring. Diagonal supports at the corners do not need to go all the way to the floor. If they go about half way down, they will make the table plenty sturdy and still leave wide-open areas for you to crawl through.


----------



## dm9249 (Aug 13, 2013)

I did plan on adding some braces along the long side. The table can wobble just a little and I want to avoid that. I also like the idea of moving the braces up on the short ends. I just put them the way they are so I could flip the table over.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## bluenavigator (Aug 30, 2015)

Why would you want to flip the table over if you are in progress? I agree with MTRR75 for his ideal design. 

I would use that setup so I can use floor creeper to go under the table.


----------



## dm9249 (Aug 13, 2013)

I meant flipping it to the way it is now. I put the legs on when it was upside down on the floor.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## dm9249 (Aug 13, 2013)

Working on making some new corner braces that don't get in the way of getting under the table.









Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

Looks good.


----------



## dm9249 (Aug 13, 2013)

MtRR75 said:


> Looks good.


Thanks! This thing is definitely a lot sturdier with these angled braces. Now I just need to add the other end and the long sides.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## dm9249 (Aug 13, 2013)

I've got both short sides done as well as one long side. Love the amount of space I have to get under here now.









Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

Like the angle braces! Did you wiggle the table before and after to see the effect? Should be a dramatic difference! The table is really looking great! Mine is just a 9x5 frame with 2x4 legs and no diagonal braces and it shimmies and shakes when ever I work on the table. Some day I'll get the brackets installed -- hopefully before something bad happens. (its been this way for at least 10 years, just was not used much until now.)


----------



## dm9249 (Aug 13, 2013)

Yes, there is a huge difference before and after. I am really glad I made the change to the angled braces. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## dm9249 (Aug 13, 2013)

All of the braces have been added now so the benchwork is done for now. Going with the angled braces definitely makes it easier to get underneath the table. My next step will be getting a layer of foam on the top then I need to get started laying some track and marking out the scenes I plan to build.


----------



## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Always good to get the basics done properly. Looking forward to seeing how it progresses.

One question. Why are folks so keen on using foam underneath?


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

We use foam because it's light, sturdy, and easy to work with. And inexpensive. Around here, a 4x8 sheet of 1/2" plywood is about $25, 2 sheets or 2x8 2" foam is only 22. It also allows you to easily create depressions below track level by simply carving out the foam.

The only mystery for me is why people use both foam and plywood. L girder joists on 18" centers is plenty strong enough, and less than half the weight.


----------



## dm9249 (Aug 13, 2013)

Working on laying down some foam now. I got some scraps from my dad for free, they just need some trimming to completely cover the table top now.

What is the best tool to cut this stuff with so I end up with a relatively straight and even cut?









Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

This is what I use along with a straightedge. 
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showpost.php?p=511770&postcount=171

If you look at my layout you'll see I cut a lot of foam. 

Magic


----------



## dm9249 (Aug 13, 2013)

Working on trimming the foam and putting the pieces together to cover the table. Just about halfway done now.

Question - What do you guys usually use to glue the foam down?



















Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

Some cheep silicone caulk for gluing to the bench work and if I'm building mountains etc. Elmer's wood glue, dries pretty fast and you can carve it much sooner.

Magic


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Regardless of what adhesive you use, go light on it. There is going to
be little lateral pressure. Just a dab at widely spaced points will hold
it in place.

The same will be true when you get around to gluing down the track
bed and track.

Don


----------



## dm9249 (Aug 13, 2013)

Thanks for the info guys! I'm working on gluing the foam down with some liquid nail project adhesive (the cheap stuff) and it seems to be working just fine.


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Adhesive latex caulk is a great adhesive. No matter what you use, do not put it in concentric circles. Foam does not allow airflow, nor do most adhesives, so the stuff on the inside never cures!


----------



## dm9249 (Aug 13, 2013)

I have all of the foam glued down now. I may put a layer of earth colored paint on top, but don't have any at the moment so that will have to wait for now. The other thing I want to do is get my DCC starter system so I can at least hook up a basic loop of track to get some trains running.


----------



## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

Looks like you're off to a good start. 
One of the first things I do is paint the foam, helps me visualize what I'm doing and if it will look like I want.

Keep us posted. 

Magic


----------



## dm9249 (Aug 13, 2013)

Got my DCC starter system in the mail today. I'm hoping to get this wired up to the loop of track I already have sometime this weekend.









I've never used DCC before so this should be interesting.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## bluenavigator (Aug 30, 2015)

Nice!! I am on right budget so I am still using the old rotary system. Nothing wrong with that beside no music/whristle, etc available since I am deaf. ¯\_()_/¯

oh I mean tight budge, not right budget...


----------



## dm9249 (Aug 13, 2013)

Trains are running now! 
















I was lucky and found an old Bachmann re-railer that made the hookup to my loop of track very simple. The loco runs great other than some oddly loud noise at low speeds. Not sure if that's normal since this is such a low end loco. Other than that this is great, I can't wait to get further into this so I can run some operations.









Definitely looking forward to getting some work done on the actual design of the layout now.


----------



## Mr.Buchholz (Dec 30, 2011)

So far so good! Love the benchwork, it is very well done. Hope to see more track laid soon, as well as some land forms and whatnot. Keep up the good work!


-J.


----------

