# 2056 Hudson Engine and 2046W Tender Noise



## RichT (Dec 21, 2009)

Been out of the model train loop for some time... getting back into it now. I'm new to this forum

I just picked up a 2056 Engine with a matching 2046w tender. It is in great shape and well cared for. I am using it on a 48'' fasttrack loop under the tree powered by a brand new CW-80 transformer.

I noticed a rather loud buzz from the engine when the power was applied. Disengaging the E-unit made it stop so I am guessing its the solenoid pulling up when the power is applied. it seems fairly quiet when in motion with the E-unit disengaged.

There also seems to be a chatter in the tender when I press the horn button on the controller.... even when the engine is off the rails. I have opened up the tender and made sure the motor shaft is lubricated at both the top and bottom. I also put a few drops into the oil wick at the top. I did notice that hole where the shaft passes through the wick housing is not round but oval shaped. I didn't pull off the brush plate to check that hole because I wanted to have spare parts on hand first. I have yet to test it with the body off to see if its again solenoid chatter. I did burnish the contacts to make sure it wasn't a bad connection. 

Anyone have any insight.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Welcome,

The 2056 to date is my biggest engine. built 1952
If the needs be, I can post a breakdown picture. 

The eunit is noisy, that is how you know it works.I am not sure that by replacing it, will make it any better.


Tender:
As an old part it is worn. The chatter is evident. Though they are noisy.You can replace the brush plate or install a rivet to act as bushing. This can be done with engine motors too. The trick is finding the right size eye rivet.

So here is a quote fom a Boxcar BILL of the CTT Forum

"On the 6026 use WS156 and 600-8801-077 . On the 6466 use 600-8801-077, WS107 Bearing and Ball Bearing WS106. The ball goes inside the WS107 Bearing. When you install the 600-8801-077 Bushing in the brushplate, install it from the top down. You can get the parts from The Train Tender. Give Jeff a call he has the parts" 
This all depends on the motor being horzontal or vertical.

Since this is a copy of a CTT thread here is the link. If you wish.

It sounds like a good fix.

Just to show we don't slouch around here here is a 6466x tender thread with a horizontal motor.
If you watch the video I can say that the sound has improved with use sfter the cleaning and breaking in time for the armature and brushes.

A tree photo would be nice.


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

Glad to see you didn't slouch that one, T-man. *grins*


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Yeah, no slouching here. Just having fun.
Sometimes the hardest part is finding the information. I lucked out, cause we recently discussed tenders.
BTW I liked your 49 manual link. 
If you could. try and date my 75 watt 7B AF transformer. If you come across it. It wasn't listed in the manual.


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

Would this be it? 1946, according to my site of choice. *L*


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

That's it! I think the handle is classy. That's what the black piece is in front,an extension.


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

Yeah, I like those too! Here's my two (at home) favorites:


















Both arrived with some repair work needed, but I have them lined out, now.


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

T-man, here's the address for the site with Gilbert/AF transformers, in case you want to see the rest of the family: http://www.geocities.com/theupstairstrain/infrastructure_Transformers.html


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## RichT (Dec 21, 2009)

Thanks so much for the information... The 2046W tender has a vertical motor. I think its going to require me to run it on a test track with the cover off to isolate the problem. From what I saw the lower bushing looked good, it was the upper that looked a bit worn. I'll have to pull the motor apart to see what the plate looks like form the bottom. 

Is the impeller press fitted onto the shaft? it looks like the sound box is glued together so I'm not sure if I can get to the impeller other then through the hole in the underside.

as you said it was made in 1952, so I don't want to take any chances of breaking the sound box or impeller. It could also be the solenoid chattering. I wonder if there is a way to filter the AC noise out of the solenoids windings, I'll have to think about that one, it would go a long way to quieting it down.

Thanks again for the info... I'll post pictures of what I find.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

If it is the relay chattering, they can be adjusted. I'll look.


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## RichT (Dec 21, 2009)

Well I took the 2046 apart last night and ran it on a test track. The noise is definitely coming from the motor.

The condition wasn't too bad, but I removed the motor/sound box form the chassis, and took off the brush plate. I polished the communicator, verifyed there was nothing in between the communicator contacts and buffed the brushes on a bit of cardboard.

I discovered that the motor assembly and sound-box were attached by 2 bolt/studs on the bottom of the sound box. I removed these and found that the impeller was pressed onto the motor shaft. I used a small brass punch to tap it lose.

I removed the armature and inspected both the bearing in the motor mount and in the brush holder. Both looked OK and round. so I cleaned up everything... put it together with a drop of 30W on each bearing and a few drops in the oil wick. I did notice that there were extra screw holes in the motor mount so I guess it could be mounted horizontal or vertical

After putting it all back together and testing it, its better. I have posted a video for you all to see and hear it. Let me know if it sounds normal to you...

Thanks all for your help and a very Merry Christmas.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbWbuxxoEdM


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

It sounds great. The motor will quiet down after some use. Mine did.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

"Both looked OK and round. so I cleaned up everything... put it together with a drop of 30W on each bearing and a few drops in the oil wick."
RichT..........................................,



30 weight oil? 

Why don't you spurge on a good bottle of oil made for trains?
Click the link below.


http://www.all-railroads.com/lablubes.htm


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## RichT (Dec 21, 2009)

big ed said:


> 30 weight oil?
> 
> Why don't you spurge on a good bottle of oil made for trains?


I do have a bottle of "Train Oil", wanted to try something a bit heavier to see how that would work on quieting things down a bit... What I need to get is some gear oil, the engine is the next bit of maintenance I want to do.

Thanks for the Feedback everyone


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Duke of Earl*

I am at 5/20 weight myself. All dripped and saved from a used quart bottle.
Nothing fancy here.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

You need Gear oil now? synthetic?

Sounds like the days when I used to fix the 18 wheeler myself.
I can still smell the gear oil on my overalls.

You know what I got? 
A can of Genuine Steam Locomotive oil from around 1880.
Would you like to try some? $55.55 for 7 OZ, free shipping
(good stuff)




T? Is that detergent oil drippings or without detergent?:laugh:


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## RichT (Dec 21, 2009)

big ed said:


> You need Gear oil now? synthetic?


I was thinking some hobby gear oil.... I used to use it on my slot cars... it was nice in that it tended not to spray off as bad as regular oil might. On the other hand it might be a bit sticky and attract duct.

Any thoughts?


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Quote:I was thinking some hobby gear oil.... I used to use it on my slot cars... "


It was probably automatic tramission fluid. Red color, little bottle, applicator. Yeah transmission fluid. I use that too. If it is old clean the bottle out and get a fresh quart. A liftime supply.


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## RichT (Dec 21, 2009)

T-Man said:


> It was probably automatic tramission fluid. Red color, little bottle, applicator. Yeah transmission fluid. I use that too. If it is old clean the bottle out and get a fresh quart. A liftime supply.


This was a lot heaver then that.... it actually had the consistency of molasses. I was specifically used on the gears in a slot car.... lighter oil would sling off at the speeds that the motor turned... My thinking is the more lubricant that stays on the moving parts, the less I have to clean off the rails


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

RichT said:


> I was thinking some hobby gear oil.... I used to use it on my slot cars... it was nice in that it tended not to spray off as bad as regular oil might. On the other hand it might be a bit sticky and attract duct.
> 
> Any thoughts?



When we built my boy's Pine Wood Derby cars I Used Kadee #231 Greas-em.
It's a powdered graphite Lube.Good for couplers Don't know about other stuff.

Also used Dry White Teflon with cling

Both of these are a dry lube perfect for lubing the wheel axles of the Pine Wood car. No oily mess. I don't know if you can use it for what you want to.
I know it's good for my rolling stock wheels.

This is one of the six cars we built over the span of three years.
27 cars were entered.
It took second place in speed and best in show in the truck division.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

What a hot rod. Such Talent.

Warning
Graphite lubricant. NO LOOSE powders EVER. Graphite is a great conductor of electricity. On a motor, it will short ....... guaranteed.
I have used some in solution on swicthes that dries. Also on discolored screws. The teflon sounds better.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I didn't know if it was right for what he wanted to use it for.


Heres the seconds son entry for that year.

Took fourth in the race. ( I think the weights were in the wrong spot.)

Took first in paint.


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

RichT said:


> This was a lot heaver then that.... it actually had the consistency of molasses. I was specifically used on the gears in a slot car.... lighter oil would sling off at the speeds that the motor turned... My thinking is the more lubricant that stays on the moving parts, the less I have to clean off the rails


Sounds like 80-weight rear-end oil!


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

Beautiful work on those pinewoods. *S*


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## RichT (Dec 21, 2009)

Reckers said:


> Sounds like 80-weight rear-end oil!



Might be.... How about silicon grease. You can get it in auto parts store in little tubes.... Its used in light bulb sockets to prevent corrosion... its non-conductive, inert, and doesn't run off. Don't get it on your clothing as it will not wash off


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