# New project: HO SD70MAC BNSF Executive scheme- detail, sound & weather



## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

Hey guys. Wanted to share my enthusiasm for this project. I wont do a total play by play but will post up pics from time to time. Maybe just before and afters? 

Anyway Ive recently fallen in love with the sd70mac and my local hobby shop just happened to have exactly the one I wanted! Discontinued 2005 model, BNSF Executive paint scheme, Athearn yellow box DCC ready. Huge bonus: It has the Heritage logo on the nose. Pretty rare and my favorite version.

Got it for $130 out the door. Grabbed a tsunami decoder off ebay and a speaker from railmaster. Have a Details West super detail kit coming for it with some paint. I do plan to weather this one a bit too once the shell is off. Has Kadee couplers now as well.

The conversion should be easy. A little cutting in the back to get the speaker down. Board snaps in place. Minimal soldering.

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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

Sun visor was pivoted up in the box. I dropped it back down. Seems to pivot.





















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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

I still see these go through in real life once in a while around here. Getting fairly rare though. This road # has many real life photos on the internet for weathering purposes. Its been photographed from TX to Galesburg, IL to MN over the years.
BNSF let the paint go on this one and its in pretty bad shape now. Light green patches all over it. I wont weather it to that level though. Just plan to dirty it up some. Hopefully it turns out ok!

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## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

Nice looking unit. Anxious to see what you do for weathering. I still see some of these paint scheme around here too, but haven't paid a lot of attention lately. Good luck with it!!


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

Thanks! Heres the real one still in service. Photo taken last year (2013) in Indiana.










While that look might be fun and challenging to create, I personally dont care for it. What looks to be original paint is now shot. Built in 94, after 10 years it wasnt so bad. After 20 (assuming it was never re-painted), the green paint is failing badly. The rest held up surprinsingly well. 

Theres quite a bit to address on the white stripe on the model. For starters I noticed the bottom tips of the hand rail posts should be painted white to match the prototype. And it actually looks to be the creme color on the real thing compared to the white stripe Athearn gave it.

The detail parts coming will help this model some. Its good but not as good as Athearns current offerings.

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## golfermd (Apr 19, 2013)

This looks like a great project. Would love to see you post your progress pictures and descriptions down in the Detailing forum below.


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

Yeah maybe I shouldve posted this thread there. If a mod would like to move this thread there that would be fine.
Eventually I'll post some side by side, labeled update pics that might be interesting. 
Ill post up the details kit when it comes. (Somebody else might want to detail an older sd70 model some day. ) It has a whole new plow and about 30 parts or so. 

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## Grabbem88 (Feb 24, 2012)

Me too the paint chipping kinda gross looking and to duplicate it might end up blotchy..

I would match the trucks though

I'd use dust sparingly then find tarnished black and thin it pretty good. The results has been awesome for me...if you can find it in polyscale I did manage to find it in model masters as well


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## Grabbem88 (Feb 24, 2012)

Also lol one more thing. Put two speakers in that bad boy!


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

Grabbem88 said:


> Also lol one more thing. Put two speakers in that bad boy!


 Lol. Nah. Ones plenty for me. Have to modify it enough for just one. Ill definitely lighten it up and fix up the trucks. Ive got rust n dust system and various paints I can use. 

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## Grabbem88 (Feb 24, 2012)

Ok cool ... I understand the modding and cutting deal btdt on all of mine..

Something to look into though are esu's 14x12mm and they are only 5.5 mm high enclosed!

Oh and these are self adhesive which I like..

I bought two for my rsd4/5 because I didn't like the 2 20mm high bass I stuck in there and I'm happier I yanked those out 

Are you powdering or air brushing only??


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

Mostly airbrushing. 

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## Grabbem88 (Feb 24, 2012)

I wonder if that's the same one I seen over my why.. It was lashed up with a green bnsf gp38 vandalized to high heaven


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Hard to believe that BNSF would let a centennial engine get to looking like that. Maybe it's getting old and due for the scrap heap soon. Hope they will do another engine that color scheme. Pretty neat looking I think. I don't think I would weather a new engine that was that good looking. Not right now anyway. Pete


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

SRV1 said:


> noticed the bottom tips of the hand rail posts should be painted white to match the prototype. And it actually looks to be the creme color on the real thing compared to the white stripe Athearn gave it.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-R950 using Tapatalk


 Have to adjust this last point I made. When it was new it appears the stripe was bright white. The stripe has since been re-painted with yellow markers added. Ill have to decide what to do with it.
The trucks stayed green for about 8 years before they got a coating of rust.



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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

Had to go to hardware store to get some $2.50 reinforced dremel cutoff wheels. The spot where the speaker needs to go requires the removal of 2 small pieces of 1/4" steel! Gave the dremel a work out. I smoothed down the corners with a metal file.


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

Should be low enough.

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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

While I was working on that the mailman dropped off my Details West detailing kit. The parts are cast metal. Like Monopoly pieces. I feel a little better about the price now.



















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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

Quick update on this project. I lucked out on a google search this week and unbelievably found another modeler who is currently detailing his own HO scale BNSF executive scheme at the same time I'm doing this one. K-pack over at protomodeler has been helping me immensely in detailing this project and has shared some valuable info. There's more cool stuff in store for mine now! 

I've been in the process of adding details whenever I get a chance. The paint came in and appears to be an exact match. One ounce was much more than I'm going to need though. FWIW, I ordered the Scalecoat II thinner for acrylic with this just to avoid problems. It's supposed to work well without the need for primer.


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

Was working on the fuel tank details yesterday. The cookie cutter details the fuel tank received from Athearn are somewhat close to realistic but of course did not match the prototype.




This is the front of the fuel tank. I originally wasn't going to mess with it but for everything else that this model is getting, I figured why half *** it with the fuel tank? The front fillers on the prototype don't actually enter the tank in the same location. Here you can kind of see where I shifted things. There is no stand pipe on the right side so I removed it and did not add another. 




I need to order 2 more fillers for the rear since the super detail kit only comes with two. Had to order MU cables separately too.

Made good progress yesterday. Added air hoses, another grab iron to the hood that Athearn left off, sander hoses to one side, etc... Today I'll be adding MU cables, and other misc. details. I think I'll hold off on adding windshield wipers to the end so it's easier to tape off windows for weathering and they don't get broken.

I won't be painting any of the details yet. I'll post a few labeled pics and point out what went on before I paint and weather anything.


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

You are really getting serious with this. Looks great. Pete


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

Thanks Pete! Yeah I kind of am with this one. I really dont have the time to fix up everything as good as this one will be. I wouldnt put myself in the "rivet counter" category yet but there are simple things that can be done to really improve a model.

Im trying to get this one "mostly" right because I like it a lot. The newer Athearns are more highly detailed than these older ones anyway. So this one was a good project candidate.

This other guy introduced me to Canon photo etched steps recently. Ordered some up for mine. Every hole is scale accurate and see through. Sweet detail for these things. 



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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

Heres a pic of the Athearn sander hose detail next to a pair still on the Details West tree. You can see the tab sticking off the factory one. These pop out of the ends of the trucks to free up the space for the new ones.










Heres the new ones installed:










The metal is soft and flexible so they can be bent into place like the real ones. 
Note: The tabs sticking out on newly installed ones are supposed to go in the hole on the trucks. Ill get it right on the other side. 

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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

That's a neat detail there. The sanders are often overlooked. Looking forward to the rest. Pete


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

The etched steps are in. Hope to have them on soon. Installed rear fuel fillers tonight. 

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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

Installing some steps tonight. Theyre notched so they bend easy. They fit like a glove.

Before: 










After:









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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

Whats nice is the two stock steps going up to the rear of the cab already have holes in them and dont need to be replaced. 



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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

All the steps were installed yesterday. Also installed front and rear windshield wipers. Today I moved a grab iron on the hood, moved emergency fuel shut offs up,and finished detailing the fuel tank. ( I think.) Still needs paint of course.



















Right now working on two more brake lines on the right trucks. Currently waiting for decoupler bars (standard on new Genesis models) and cab mirrors to arrive in the mail. Getting anxious to paint and install the board. 

In the final pics you guys may be surprised by all of the little tedious things there's been to make this model correct. Some details Im amazed that Athearn included. Some are correct for other bnsf sd70mac executives but not this one. (Fuel shut off location for example). Some details were left off or reversed. They tried. 

You get much more for the money with the new Ath Genesis models. I know people dont like the grain of rice bulbs but they do look correct compared to the white leds used by other manufacturers. 



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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

Well, I figured while Im waiting for the last detail parts to show up Id begin some of the weathering process that can be done now. 

One of the best ways to start making any model more realistic and less toy like, is to bring out the panel lines. I love this step because its quick and easy to do. Ill be using Micro-Marks Rust n Dust #2 Black Wash for this. It cleans up with water so its very forgiving. It needs to be stirred well as it is thin stuff. But it makes it nice because it keeps you from over doing it. If its too light, put another layer on until the desired effect is achieved. 
Ive also mixed up my own with black paint and thinner. That works too.

In the first pics here notice how the lines blend in with the rest of the paint. The rear vents ( the ones that werent blackened at the factory) also blend in. Its all one color. When you look at the prototype in real life, it doesnt look like this:




















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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

In real life, bright, natural daylight tends to expose surface variations and shadow lines. If I wasnt going to do any other weathering with this model, this step alone makes a big difference visually. It has less impact with darker paint. 










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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

Other side. I darkened the hinges as well.

Before: 










After:










Next, Ill probably start sanding the extra glue that the factory smeared on that front upper panel behind the cab.

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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

For the most part, I believe I've finished up with the details I'm going to apply to this model. Here's some current pics updating where it stands now, minus the couplers and hand railing.


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

Here I'll point out some of what was added. There's 3 lift rings on each side. The airtanks were moved ahead slightly and various underframe details were added to match the prototype.


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

Here's how the fuel tank turned out. Basically everything was stripped off and replaced with Details West detail parts in their prototypical locations along with some other details.


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Nice work SRV1. She looks a lot more realistic now. The color scheme is interesting but I still like the 'swoosh' best. Pete


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

norgale said:


> Nice work SRV1. She looks a lot more realistic now. The color scheme is interesting but I still like the 'swoosh' best. Pete



I like the new paint scheme too. I'll be pairing this one up with a new ACe.


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

Today I painted over my decals with a 2nd layer of paint. The lettering is much lighter to match the real thing now. The darker parts left on the numbers was done on purpose to match the prototype. I sprayed it with dullcote today as well.

These are before and afters outside in the sunlight.


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

I also began doing some faded paint. I have mixed feelings about it so far but I think it's ok. I've only done the fuel tank so far. I will probably do the whole body with the appropriate fade pattern. Here's pics of my progress next to pics of the real thing in 2013:





I'll probably lighten up this other side a little more when I go to do more.


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## doorman29 (Dec 15, 2013)

:appl: Very nice work as usual.


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Yes, excellent work all around. I don't think that fuel tank paint is faded as much as it is worn off probably from rotating brushes at the wash rack. You've done a very good job of creating the look on your loco.. Matter of fact you've done a super job on the whole project. Pete


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

That is jaw dropping amazing detail work.

You know a rivet counter is going to be impressed
when he see's...the toilet drain...gasp.

Don


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

Thanks for the compliments guys! Yeah, Don, I ended up moving the toilet drain and that brake vent back. Didn't have them in the right spot. It's on the prototype so the model got it! It came in the Details West MAC kit. 

Quick update on limited action tonight. Been thinking about lighting today. Here's a sneak peak....

I ordered over $20 worth of different colored, 2 mm LEDs to experiment with and to have on hand. They're in the mail.

The part that's been bothering me is the non-lighted, Athearn number boards.  Been doing other things while my mind stayed on this dilemma. I've practically begged and pleaded with several sources for custom lit, HO scale number boards...... to no avail.

So, tonight I tried an experiment. I removed the cab for the first time. Took dremel cut off wheel, removed a piece of the clear plastic that connects the front windows to the other windows. (Had to get it out of the way.) Then took a tiny grinder bit and removed some plastic behind one board. Then I took a thin pointy, exacto knife and started scraping away at one of the white numbers. It didn't turn out great, but, was "ok". Checked work with a jeweler's loupe. Brushed off debris with a paint brush. Then I did another one. And another. Took a little black paint and did some touch up and blacking out in back. 
Ended up with this. Up close and personal, it looks a little rough. Still needs some attention:




From a bit of a distance, it looks acceptable. I think it almost looks a little more realistic because the numbers look blockier and are duller:






Then you stick an LED behind it, and viola..... 




Keep in mind this still needs some work. It'll be a different LED with a different resistor and the LED will be wrapped in electrical tape so all the light goes forward, to help with the light bleed out. I'll probably try to get them a little brighter. Having the plastic in the way actually helps diffuse the intense LED light. 

IMO, I don't think this is very awesome. I do think it serves the purpose and will be better than nothing. Other lighting upgrades will be far easier. This model should look pretty neat in low light.


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Why did you have to change the numbers? Seems like they would be ok as they are. Pete


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

norgale said:


> Why did you have to change the numbers? Seems like they would be ok as they are. Pete


 Because I wanted them to light up. The white on the numbers is solid material that doesnt let light shine through. Even though you'd think it would.


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Aren't the numbers on a clear background? Even if they aren't the light should shine through. To bad to have to scratch those numbers up. Pete


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

Nope. Its just solid decals on plastic. Trust me, if I couldve left them alone and gotten the numbers to light up, I wouldve left them. I tried.


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Yes,I see what you mean. I have several old locos that have clear plastic behind the numbers so I thought yours might be like that too. So onward with the project. Let's see what you can come up with for lighting the number boards. pete


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

Edit/update: 

Ok, getting these etched isnt feasible. The 9 and 4 wouldnt work and theres significant cost involved. 

I could do the other side and call it a day but it looks like I have a viable plan C. 
Intermountain and microscale are going to save the day for these boards.

Talked with IM on the phone and ordered up a set of clear sprues to install. Then talked to microscale and found part # 87-205, "lightable # board decal sheet with black backgrounds." That should do the trick.

IM said it could be a few weeks before I get the parts though.


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

*Update: Work continues*

I was hoping I'd be able to come back here with everything all done and final pics but this one has been a long process. This is only the second day I've been off in the last 14 days so I finally got to work on this model. Worked on it from about 10 to 7:30 this evening. 

Spent half the day weathering and the other half the day soldering and wiring. I dove in happy go lucky, putting wires, here and there. I hooked up the headlights and then I realized I had another cluster of wires left. "Ah! I guess it would be nice to hook up the ditch lights again!"

I have the new Tsunami board in it with the speaker hooked up. All the tabs used up and nowhere to go with the ditch lights. My ultimate goal was to install step lights too, but it looks like it's not gonna happen. Not only have I run out of tabs on the board, but the wiring is already taking up a lot of room. Removal is somewhat complicated already as well. 

I would post overall shots but after over a week, Sergent engineering just shipped the prototypical couplers for it today. These work like the real thing and are identical to the real ones, perfectly scaled. When they come in, I'll install and have a photo shoot, because I'm done weathering. It has the full, modern day, peeled paint look going on. I think it turned out pretty neat.

Until then, here's what I was working on today. The platform lights are on and controllable. Both number boards have an LED in place and are controllable. The one on the left I did not grind out with the dremel so the light isn't shining through yet. This is still preliminary. They will get more work. I don't know if I can leave the platform lights because something has to give if I want ditch lights. Will probably be on the phone with Soundtraxx tomorrow looking for ideas. 

Right now there's 6 factory installed grain of rice bulbs with 12 wires. I've added 4 LEDs which adds 8 more wires, plus 2 speaker wires, 4 pickup wires and 2 motor wires. Getting the shell back on is an adventure.







 

In the mean time, I picked up another BNSF MAC in Heritage II to pair/consist with this one. Its a new genesis version that came out relatively recently. I was happy to open the USPS box and see a Blue box in there. The details are a little better on new ones. 
For example, it's really nice having the perfectly formed brake lines already in place on that one. It has windshield wipers but not the right type. I plan to detail this one too. Should be easier figuring it all out the 2nd time.


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

Talked with Soundtraxx today. After talking it through I conceded that my best bet is to combine the number board lights with the end platform lights. Its a minor compromise so I can at least keep them. Theyre all usually left on in real life day and night anyway.

It works out because theyre all LEDs. The positives are already soldered to the same resistor. Just have to move the other wires from 6 to 5. This frees up fx 6 for independent ditch light control once again.

Tonight was merely a bench cleaning affair. Have room to work again. Cleared out a bunch of stuff I wasnt using anymore.
The new work environment should help fascilitate a more rapid and efficient acquisition of tools and products, thereby reducing frustration and enhancing my overall experience.


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

Wiring is done. It may look shabby but everything works as it's supposed to. I used regular tape to hold some wires together so as not to add electrical tape to non-soldered joints in case I ever need to get back at something. Ditch lights are independent. When you hit the dimmer, all the lighting dims, even the LEDs just slightly. 






There's a red LED under the x in soundtraxx on the board that is extremely bright. I've never had to cover this on other projects but this one needs to be. 

The Sergent engineering couplers came in (with magnetic wand) today and they are awesome. I'm really impressed with these. They are pricey. More than Kadees but have working knuckles and are way more realistic. They come, pre-rusted and look great. Hopefully will get them installed tomorrow and get some outside pics in the sunlight of overall progress.

Still waiting on clear number board sprues from Intermountain. Should be the final project for this model.


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

*Coupler comparison*

Here are the Sergent engineering couplers I'm going to put on this and the other mac that will be paired with this one. These are model FC87A F type couplers, the type used on most modern day locos (or so I've been told). There's a ball bearing in each one that locks and unlocks the knuckle by waving a wand over the top. They fit close and tight and once they're locked, they're locked. You can install a spring in the key hole, squared section if needed to take up slack.

Here's a comparison of them side by side with Kadee 148s. 



I still like kadees and will probably buy many more of them. But to be honest, if I win the lottery, I'd put the sergents on everything.  For the budget minded, including me, a good compromise would be to put them on your favorite, most realistic stuff and then have a car that's half and half so you can still hook up to the kadees. I guess some kadees are compatible with these. I'm not that familiar but these pictured I don't believe will work together.

FWIW, the sergents are not on ebay right now. I already checked. At least I didn't find any.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Very interesting couplers.

Do they use the Kadee brass 'box' in the draft box
for centering?

Do they uncouple on magnetic 'ramps'?

Don


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

I just installed them in the factory draft box on this mac late last night. Look good but real stiff. Might need some work and/or oil. Not alot of room left in there.
I dont know about the kadee box or the magnetic decoupler. I just got my hands on them for the first time yesterday afternoon. Definitely realistic.


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

About 95% complete. Still needs some work.

Before:




After:


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)




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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

The missing paint was painted to match the present day real one. Very little freelance done. Pretty much anywhere you look on the real one should match what you see. Including the tips of the hand rails painted white to match the edge, correct spacing on the reflective tape, missing paint locations, etc...

Going to consist this Heritage II mac with it for a coal train. It's a genesis blue box and still untouched. Board, speaker and detail parts are all here for it.


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

9/12/14 update:

Intermountain still has not sent me clear sprues for the number boards. They warned me there was a back log for parts. They did not charge me for anything either so that isn't an issue. Been waiting so long I'm all ready to dive into this project again. 

Plans have changed for the control system for these. I'm selling the DCC boards and going to go with a RailPro system from Ring engineering. So, the EMD 710 tsunami sound boards here are for sale if anyone can use them. Will leave the resistor soldered in the 14v for someone. This isn't a for sale thread but I will be creating one down below. 

Work has progressed on the H2 Mac and I've added a CSX (new paint) SD60 to this consist that will receive light weathering.


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