# Electrical question



## RUSTY Cuda (Aug 28, 2012)

Found these lights on ebay, 6 volt, is there a way I can use these on my DC layout, maybe a resistor in the power feed, look perfect for lighting up the steam yard? 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20PCS-HO-Ga...199563?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item2ecc4e9c8b


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

If you use a resistor, or hook them up to a separate, variable DC source and do not feed them more than 6 volts. Then you can use them!


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## rzw0wr (Aug 28, 2013)

Yes you can.

Try this site.

http://www.raltron.com/cust/tools/voltage_divider.asp


Dale


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## ktcards (Sep 22, 2012)

RUSTY Cuda said:


> Found these lights on ebay, 6 volt, is there a way I can use these on my DC layout, maybe a resistor in the power feed, look perfect for lighting up the steam yard?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/20PCS-HO-Ga...199563?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item2ecc4e9c8b


It would much easier to hook two of them together in series, two 6 volt bulbs makes one 12 volt bulb this way...

K


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## RUSTY Cuda (Aug 28, 2012)

All good solutions, upon further cruising I found a few 12 volt setups, but I have to win 4 or 5 auctions to get 20, I'll keep hunting around, thanks for all the help. Rich.


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

ktcards said:


> It would much easier to hook two of them together in series, two 6 volt bulbs makes one 12 volt bulb this way...
> 
> K


This is the beat way to do it. if they are to bright and a third one in line.


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## Dwight Ennis (Oct 8, 2013)

Keep in mind that many/most power packs put out more than 12 volts on their "Accessory" terminals. Use a voltmeter to measure the actual voltage at the terminals. Best bet is a separate 12v power supply. I got mine through Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004CQLYHQ/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## RUSTY Cuda (Aug 28, 2012)

I have a separate 12v transformer that's doing all the lighting, it's massive gotta weigh 5 lbs, made well before the modern age.
blew a 2 amp fuse with about 3/4 of the lights that are now on the table, put in a five, added the 5 lights on the lumber shed(that's when it blew) have since added in the ballfield lighting, doesn't even hum or get warm, pretty sure it will handle anything I can throw at it.


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## ktcards (Sep 22, 2012)

RUSTY Cuda said:


> I have a separate 12v transformer that's doing all the lighting, it's massive gotta weigh 5 lbs, made well before the modern age.
> blew a 2 amp fuse with about 3/4 of the lights that are now on the table, put in a five, added the 5 lights on the lumber shed(that's when it blew) have since added in the ballfield lighting, doesn't even hum or get warm, pretty sure it will handle anything I can throw at it.


You have to realize the difference between volts and amps. You have something that has a load of 12 volts and 1 amp. you add 10 of them to the circuit and you have 12 volts and 10 amps. The voltage doesn't change while the amperage is additive.

Now if you increase the rating of the fuse you risk overloading the transformer. You need to check and see what the transformer is rated at and not increase the size of the fuse beond that rating.

K


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## RUSTY Cuda (Aug 28, 2012)

That much I did know, I'll check it out later & get a pic of the Monster up.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Rich

This monster should have a label on it that lists the
output voltage and maximum AMPERAGE. Your fuse should be
near the output amps. That will be the limit for
the number of lights it will handle.

Don


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## RUSTY Cuda (Aug 28, 2012)

Crud, I posted this in my diorama post


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## Dwight Ennis (Oct 8, 2013)

0.500 KVA (or 500 VA) should be able to supply 41.6 amps output at 12 volts, or half that at 24 volts. Keep in mind that this is producing AC, not DC, which could shorten the life of your bulbs.


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## RUSTY Cuda (Aug 28, 2012)

Dang, I could light my Christmas tree with that baby. 
So I should be safe with my 5 amp fuse, got a little leeway there, I'd say when I'm done it probably won't make it to 4 amps, had 75% of what's up there when the 2 amp went, have maybe a dozen street lamps & then the steam yard where I think 10 will do, I have some meters in one of the boxes maybe I'll pull em & see where I'm at, also want to get a reading on the hogger, that is more powerful then the tech 3, want to see what that's putting out. 
Thanks for all the help, I can tell the wife I won't burn down the house!


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## RUSTY Cuda (Aug 28, 2012)

OK it's a DC volt meter so I wasn't sure if I could hook that up to the big trans. did hook it up to the hogger, that puts out about 20 volts on max, then did the tech 3 to see if it jived with that, pretty close, one eng 4 cars no lights on cars, maxes out around 16,almost no amps. 
2 engines & seven lighted pass cars, maxes out at 12 & amps go close to 2.
didn't do amps on the hogger, that goes in series ? right ? I'd have to crawl under for that to break the load line (I think) again a dc meter.


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## Dwight Ennis (Oct 8, 2013)

The hogger, as you call it, is the big grey transformer you posted the label photo of correct? If so, a DC meter won't work. You'll need an AC meter.

Re: the fuse... is it on the input or the output side?


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## RUSTY Cuda (Aug 28, 2012)

The hogger (orange) is a walk around trans for the trains (new pic below) the gray one is just a straight transformer.


Pretty sure the Fuse is on the output side.


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## Dwight Ennis (Oct 8, 2013)

> Pretty sure the Fuse is on the output side.


Might be worth removing the fuse and see if you still read voltage at the output terminals (with an AC meter). That would tell you for sure.


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## RUSTY Cuda (Aug 28, 2012)

Looks like I can pop the lid above the red indicator light & see where the wires go, next putzin time maybe I'll take a look see!


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Popping out the fuse would shut off current at the terminals 
regardless of whether it's on input or output.

However, the fuse is usually in the output so as to protect
the transformer innards from damage in event of
low voltage short.

Don


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## Dwight Ennis (Oct 8, 2013)

DonR said:


> Popping out the fuse would shut off current at the terminals
> regardless of whether it's on input or output.


Good point. Guess I hadn't thought it through. 

A continuity check on the output terminals (with the unit unplugged) would be a better way... first with the fuse in to establish a baseline, and then with the fuse out.


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## ssgt (Jan 8, 2013)

every transformer I've seen with fuses had a fuse in the secondary circuit(output) to prevent melting the secondary windings if a short occurred.I would say that it's a safe bet that the fuse is for the output.


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## hotmail77 (Dec 2, 2013)

Hi. My name is Brad, i am new to this forum and very excited to begin my project. I have a electrical question. Im not sure if this is a ok spot to ask but i will anyways. My layout will b a 4x8. and i would like to do street lights, cars with lights, ect. i am looking at a power supply on ebay 
360W 12V dc 30A Switching Regulated Power Supply

will this be sufficient enough to do what i want? i am new to the Train world so i pretty much know nothing. 

Thanks guys


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## Dwight Ennis (Oct 8, 2013)

hotmail77 said:


> Hi. My name is Brad, i am new to this forum and very excited to begin my project. I have a electrical question. Im not sure if this is a ok spot to ask but i will anyways. My layout will b a 4x8. and i would like to do street lights, cars with lights, ect. i am looking at a power supply on ebay
> 360W 12V dc 30A Switching Regulated Power Supply
> 
> will this be sufficient enough to do what i want? i am new to the Train world so i pretty much know nothing.
> ...


I would say more than enough.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Hotmail

Any old used train transformer (AC) or Power Pack (DC)
would work to power your lights, turnouts, etc. So many
have converted to DCC that old power packs are
a dime a dozen (or so).

The one you mentioned is way more than you would
ever need.

Don


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