# Superelevated curves



## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Max elevations vs min radii*_
What looks right vs what works._

Superelevated curves on model railroads are for appearances only. They will not improve tracking on a model scale. In fact, if overused, they can cause problems.

On my 5x10 layout, I'm limited to 28" curves. None are superelevated.
The club has 55" and bigger curves, and the 18" minimum is only in urban and industrial areas.

Only curves of 30" and larger are superelevated... approximately 4 to 5 scale inches or so. _Maximum._
The reason for the 30" minimum is mostly in comparative appearance, and partially to eliminate rolling/coupling issues that can occur in tighter curves with longer cars in slower trains. Real railroads actually have similar concerns.

Most superelevations these days are accomplished with narrow .040" to .050" styrene strip, to render a 4 to 5 scale inch outer-track elevation (in the early days, I hear matchbook material was used).

There was a time (in the late 1950's) when easements and superelevated curves were a popular subject of conversation in the hobby.
Easements are still a fairly popular topic. But I've heard little lately on the subject of superelevation.


----------



## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

I use the clear plastic from packaging cut into strips. I slide them under the ends of ties, or under the sides of the cork roadbed. Either will work.

Super looks good, to me, because it more closely resembles the real item. I super-elevate all main line curves because that's the way the real roads do them. In my case, my shortest radius is 33", with my widest curves being near 46".

A 28" curve:










Even a bridge deck can have super-elevation:


----------



## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

mesenteria said:


> I use the clear plastic from packaging cut into strips.


Excellent photos.
Superb scenery!


----------



## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

Agree to the above, looks great.
Had some Superelevated curves on my first layout
but didn't use them on the new one for some reason,
didn't think of it till done.

Magic


----------



## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

FWIW, prototype railroads include criteria for superelevation, ranging from extreme to _zero_... depending on the chances for 'couple bucking' and binding, and are usually based on average speeds through a particular curve.
Oddly, the same bucking and binding are possible maladies on superelevated _model_ tracks as well... also mostly dependent on train speed through curves.
Except on ascending grades, slow model speeds on typical 'super'd' curves can be a problem, especially with longer cars.
The problem is (eventually and ultimately) exacerbated by plastic couplers.


----------



## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

This is what we use to 'super' our curves.
This is a 50-pack... we prefer the 100 size, (#6-144) but it isn't always available. Much cheaper on LHS shelves.
Strips are 14" long.

As _mesenteria_ said, use it under the tie ends or the roadbed... either will work. We prefer under roadbed, as ballasting doesn't need to vary.
It flexes without kinking, and it's easily held in place with pins before glueing or ballasting.
Some tack them in place with CA glue. Some use Weldbond, PVA binder's glue, or rubber cement.
End pieces should be feathered.


----------



## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

*Easements*_:_

Easements BTW, are easier to accomplish these days...
SweepSticks by Fast Tracks makes it pretty easy.


----------



## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Wouldn't the yardstick method give you faster/cheaper/more accurate easements?


----------



## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

Flex track makes its own eased curve. It isn't a proper cubic spiral, but it's darned close, what mathematicians would term 'an approximation'. Lay out your desired geometry using flex, mark the centerline, and then remove the tracks to overlay your roadbed, whatever you use for that. When you go to lay out your curves with the flex, it will replicate the same geometry you used to mark the place for the roadbed.


----------



## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Depends greatly on the brand of track. MicroEngineering is so stiff it will just stay wherever you put it, but Atlas is like a wet noodle and would be perfect for this.


----------



## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

I'd forgotten about the stiff 'bendable' Micro Engineering, which I understand is an excellent product; it just takes some doing to get it just so. Maybe we should distinguish between 'bendable' and 'flex'?


----------



## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

I find their bare rail is perfect for hand-laid turnouts, and I understand the stiffness should help in laying down smooth curves of a fixed radius.


----------



## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

I use the ME weathered rail to make my turnouts. Throws in the extra step of lightly sanding the bottom of the rail to allow soldering to PC ties. I even sand the weathered rail before gluing it to the Central Valley tie strips with pliobond. Not sure it's really necessary for gluing, but definitely for soldering. If I had a really large layout, I would probably not get the weathered rail.


----------



## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

Kato offers a limited selection of their Unitrack with superelevated curves. They even have "transition curves" for lead-ins and lead-outs at the ends of the curvature.

Unfortunately, they are in "concrete ties" only, and wider radius only.

I'd like to see them offer it in a "wood tie" version for their tighter-radus curves (19 1/4" and 21 5/8"). A "full-half-circle" set would fit the bill.


----------



## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

J.Albert1949 said:


> Unfortunately, they are in "concrete ties" only, and wider radius only.


IMO, only bigger radius curves look natural if they're 'super'd'.
Almost anything less than 30" doesn't look right to me.
Besides... prototype railroads mostly 'super' their curves based on projected average speed. There are many prototype s/e'd curves with less than 2" of elevation, which wouldn't be discernible on a model scale.


----------



## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

mesenteria said:


> I use the clear plastic from packaging cut into strips. I slide them under the ends of ties, or under the sides of the cork roadbed. Either will work.
> 
> Super looks good, to me, because it more closely resembles the real item. I super-elevate all main line curves because that's the way the real roads do them. In my case, my shortest radius is 33", with my widest curves being near 46".
> 
> A 28" curve:


I don't recall ever seeing more realistic looking layout. Superb.

Dan


----------



## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

Thanks, Dan. That rock is real, picked from the edge of my property. Okay, so I cheated...


----------

