# 2023 Coupler question



## Newtown Joe (Jan 30, 2013)

I really never paid much attention to my train couplers. I just put the cars together manually.
I know there's an electronic and manual type. 
Now, I have a problem with my 2023 motorized unit. I read somewhere that Lionel recommended that the dummy unit be in front and the motorized unit pushing from the second spot. My problem is the front coupler on the motorized unit is stuck closed and I can't get it to couple with the next car. I run the dummy and motorized unit opposite to each other so the front coupler on the motorized unit needs to join with the first passenger car.
How do you get the coupler to open?


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

You should only need one coupler to operate in order to couple two cars.

The front coupler on your engine is electrical so it is probably not connected inside the engine (wire broke).

Disassemble the engine to repair the open coupler connection. One of the disadvantages of electrical couplers is that they can't be mechanically operated (manually).


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Can you just pick the car up and slip it down over the locomotives coupler?
Just to run?

Or else fix it. 

Jeff the traintender http://www.ttender.com/partslist.html , has a reproduction coupler and drawbar for $9.50.
622-58R	coupler & drawbar reproduction	9.50
(Click Page 4, then scroll to part #622-58)

Check for a loose or broken or bad solder connection like mentioned.
Picture here, http://olsenstoy.com/cd/locos/loc2023d.pdf

Wiring is only a ground and a hot to the sliding shoe, look.
http://olsenstoy.com/cd/locos/loc2023a.pdf

Check the wiring.

If you take it off watch that you don't loose the centering spring.


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## Newtown Joe (Jan 30, 2013)

*Coupler*

The problem is it's closed in a position too tight and the passenger coupler won't fit on it. What I need to know is how to activate it with the loco off the track and get it to open. Now I know it can't be done manually. So if I take my spare transformer and grab the two lead wires where do I touch them to activate the coupler?


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Newtown Joe said:


> The problem is it's closed in a position too tight and the passenger coupler won't fit on it. What I need to know is how to activate it with the loco off the track and get it to open. Now I know it can't be done manually. So if I take my spare transformer and grab the two lead wires where do I touch them to activate the coupler?


Looking at the diagram I would say one clip for the ground and one to the back of the coupler for the hot should do it? See the diagram?

All that it might be is the hot wire is broke or the solder connection is bad. Or the ground is not making a good connection? Look under the pickup shoe for a loose or broken wire.
Unless the coil itself is shot? I would think either a bad connection or wire would be the cause. 
If the T man ever came around I bet he would know.

I never fooled around with these.


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

Coupler is wired between the 'flying shoe' on the truck and ground (the metal frame) as shown in the diagram above.

I've never seen a coupler that was too tight to insert another. That means to me that it is mechanically jammed past its intended travel or the knuckle is bent.

If that is the case your options may be limited to pulling the rivet that holds the knuckle and then replacing the necessary parts.

See here for parts list:
View attachment coupler repair.pdf


Good luck, let us know how it works out.


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

Whoops, posted the wrong link!

Coupler and truck parts here:
View attachment Trucks&Couplers.pdf


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

rkenney said:


> Whoops, posted the wrong link!
> 
> Coupler and truck parts here:
> View attachment 37255


Hmmm, there is a plunger in that unit? I wonder if that is the problem?
Try shooting a little cleaner up in there?


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## Newtown Joe (Jan 30, 2013)

*Coupler*

Guess I got to do some experimenting. I'll get back with the results.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

It's a coil coupler. Inside is a spring and weight. The weight shifts against the spring when power is applied and opens the coupler. You can test it. Power to one side and ground the other. You can move the back and forth it may open it up.


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## Newtown Joe (Jan 30, 2013)

*Coupler*

By the way, in real life were these diesel loco's always run opposite? Seems I remember seeing them both back to back and both forward in old films.


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## Newtown Joe (Jan 30, 2013)

*Coupler*

Well, nothing worked to open the coupler so I went back to running the motorized unit in front. I don't see much difference in how they run so why waste a Sunday trying to fix what ain't broke.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Newtown Joe said:


> Well, nothing worked to open the coupler so I went back to running the motorized unit in front. I don't see much difference in how they run so why waste a Sunday trying to fix what ain't broke.




But it is broke?


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## Newtown Joe (Jan 30, 2013)

*Coupler*

But now I don't need it.


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

Newtown Joe said:


> Well, nothing worked


What 'nothing' didn't work?


You have absolutely no motion in the coupler knuckle (it doesn't jiggle the least bit)? 
 The solenoid makes no noise whatsoever when jumpered to 12v AC? 
 The jumper leads do not make a slight spark when connected?
 The coupler solenoid leads are positively connected to their respective terminations (frame and flying shoe)?
 The coupler knuckle did not come off when you removed the rivet?

:stroke:


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

rkenney said:


> What 'nothing' didn't work?
> 
> 
> You have absolutely no motion in the coupler knuckle (it doesn't jiggle the least bit)?
> ...


I guess you didn't see..... quote" I don't see much difference in how they run so why waste a Sunday trying to fix what ain't broke."

I don't know. :dunno: I just don't know. :dunno:


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## Newtown Joe (Jan 30, 2013)

*Coupler*

You have to pick your battles and this ain't one of them. Train is running fine with power in front. What is the purpose of putting the dummy first?


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Funny, its not that its not broke. He just decided its not needed. When and if its ever needed we'll find out the how and why. I dont see a difference in the position other then nostalgia.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

sjm9911 said:


> Funny, its not that its not broke. He just decided its not needed. When and if its ever needed we'll find out the how and why. I dont see a difference in the position other then nostalgia.


Then................we will have to start ALL over from scratch. 

As you know it will probably be in a new thread. 

I will tag this one.:smokin:


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## Newtown Joe (Jan 30, 2013)

*Coupler*

Don't hold your breath.


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## Newtown Joe (Jan 30, 2013)

*Coupler*

Thanks for the help, I do appreciate the effort you guys make.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Newtown Joe said:


> Thanks for the help, I do appreciate the effort you guys make.


I have been holding my breath since your last post above.


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## Newtown Joe (Jan 30, 2013)

*Coupler*

Big Ed, I was just kidding!!! Don't do that, we need you here.


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

Newtown Joe said:


> What is the purpose of putting the dummy first?


Can't really see where anything has changed. :goofball:


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