# Powering Turnouts



## littlejohn2458 (Dec 31, 2015)

I am trying to find a power supply that will be able to work with my Atlas turnouts. They are not the manual ones and the DCC controller that i am getting does not provide an A/C "outlets" to power switches. I know i can get decoders and just use those with the controller, but i like the old school flip a switch. I want to use a 3 way toggle and then a push button to activate the solenoid to switch the track. I have all the wiring materials and switches, i was just looking for a good power supply to provide power to the switches then the solenoid. (something like an older DC controller would have on them but without the controller)

Sorry if this confused you all. 

Thanks,


John


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

You can buy a power supply in literally hundreds of different power type (ac / dc), voltage, and amperage configurations on Amazon, eBay, or lots of other places.

Wire it to something like this: http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/475-PDB2. You can also find these cheaper on line, or it's not really too hard to build your own.


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

John 

You can buy a used DC power pack sold for N or HO trains for maybe 5 or 10 $,
or you can check any good size flea market where you would find vendors
selling used 'wall warts' for about the same. Each one will have a
label stating it's output voltage and amperage. You'll need at least 12 volts.

I use an ordinary door bell transformer which powers a capacitor discharge
unit CDU. This is important to protect those Atlas twin coils from accidental
TOO LONG pushes of the panel buttons. You can buy one or make it yourself
from Radio Shack supplies about 5.00.

I note you are to use the DPDT switch and a push button, presumably
to also control panel lights as I do. However there is now available
a commercial switch that controls the twin coils, provides the CDU and
controls panel or track side signals.

http://www3.sympatico.ca/kstapleton3/751D.HTM

Had I known of this I would have used it instead of the DPDT and push buttons.

Don


----------



## littlejohn2458 (Dec 31, 2015)

Would something like this work?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/111667270204?...18&_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_mwBanner=1
I see it has an accessory out. I assume that is ac correct?

Thanks!


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Yes. You could use either the track DC power or the
accessories AC for your turnouts. DC needed for
the Tortoise type motors, and if you use a Capacitor
Discharge Unit for twin coil, otherwise AC will work twin coil motors,

Don


----------



## littlejohn2458 (Dec 31, 2015)

awesome!

Thanks for the advise.


----------



## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

DonR said:


> Yes. You could use either the track DC power or the
> accessories AC for your turnouts. DC needed for
> the Tortoise type motors, and if you use a Capacitor
> Discharge Unit for twin coil, otherwise AC will work twin coil motors,
> ...


He's going DCC. Couldn't he use a feeder from the track to power them?


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

It is not advisable to use the track current to power
turnout motors. The twin coils take a spurt of
amperage and would reduce the voltage on the track
probably upsetting the decoders. The Tortoise type
requires DC current.

It's much simpler to use an old power pack or wall wart.

Don


----------



## littlejohn2458 (Dec 31, 2015)

DonR said:


> It is not advisable to use the track current to power
> turnout motors. The twin coils take a spurt of
> amperage and would reduce the voltage on the track
> probably upsetting the decoders. The Tortoise type
> ...


so lets say these turnouts here:
https://www.wholesaletrains.com/Detail.asp?ID=20011098

Atlas Track,

It uses AC, so I guess im confused as to how i would use a wall wart, would i clip the end of the plug off then use the wires to go to a block then power the switches / turnouts?


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Track doesn't use anything. It's simply a conductor. It will "use" any power that you apply to it.

Turnout in question is operated by a twin-coil solenoid, as Don referred to above. You can use AC to power those.

If you look at my post above, you will see a power distribution block. Clip the connector off the end of the wall wart (we model railroaders seldom use anything not designed for model train use in it's original configuration) and connect the wires to the input terminals of the distribution block, then take your outputs off of the individual output terminal pairs.

A word of warning. Atlas Code 100 Snap Track turnouts are serviceable, but not top quality. For a few dollars more, you can get Peco, Walthers, or MicroEngineering ones which will work better and last longer.

Also, if shopping at Wholesale Trains, make sure you compare prices WITH SHIPPING to other places. I have been unpleasantly surprised by S&H charges of over $20 for standard shipping.


----------



## littlejohn2458 (Dec 31, 2015)

CTValleyRR said:


> Track doesn't use anything. It's simply a conductor. It will "use" any power that you apply to it.
> 
> Turnout in question is operated by a twin-coil solenoid, as Don referred to above. You can use AC to power those.
> 
> ...


I just got all my track from them for $230 after shipping. Compared to the almost $200 just for the turnouts that my local hobby store offers. 

Also, Now it makes sense about the wall warts and clipping off the connector. I thought that there might be another part that i was not looking for. I will hopefully be getting foam and track bed this weekend then will be able to tack the track down, solder the joints and get the electrical for the turnouts ran.

Time is limited this weekend but hopefully ill be another step closer to up and running. As soon as i get my taxes back ill be getting my 1st loco and controller. 

Thanks again all!


----------



## littlejohn2458 (Dec 31, 2015)

So I got my turnouts all wired up and powered. Here is the wall wart that I went with. 
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/actx-1620/16-vac-20-va-wall-transformer/1.html

It works great. I decided to use momentary switches for the turnouts instead or regular ones with the push button. I'm slowly getting there. I got my bnsf loco and have a dcc system on the way. Next it will be the fun part of adding scenery and customizing.

I have another question. Where would one get paint pens fron to paint the tracks?


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

littlejohn2458 said:


> I have another question. Where would one get paint pens fron to paint the tracks?


Pick a hobby shop, any hobby shop. Woodland Scenics, Testors, CreateFX, and Scalecoat all make paint pens or markers for weathering.

My LHS sells Testors and WS ones.

On line, Micromark sells WS; Walthers sells WS, Testors, and Scalecoat; MB Klein sells CreateFX and Testors.... enough choices?

Though I've never personally used them, the CreateFX set of 3 (tie brown, rail brown, rust) for $6 at MB Klein (www.modeltrainstuff.com) looks like a good deal.


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I use the water based paints from Walmart crafts department...
an expanded rainbow of colors and you can mix those to
get the exact hue you want...97 cents.

But be sure to ballast the tracks first, clean up the
floaters, then paint.

Don


----------



## littlejohn2458 (Dec 31, 2015)

DonR said:


> I use the water based paints from Walmart crafts department...
> an expanded rainbow of colors and you can mix those to
> get the exact hue you want...97 cents.
> 
> ...


Wouldn't it be harder to paint after the ballast is down?


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Not at all...you want the 'rust' and 'dirt' to leach
onto the ballast and ties. I just use cheapo 'craft'
brushes and just slather it on. Gotta wipe the rail
heads after you finish tho. Mainlines sometimes are
dark as if oiled, other times rusty or a mix...
spurs and yard tracks mostly
are rusty.

The reason to do it first is that the ballast 'floats' and
you have tiny bits stuck against the rails. You have to flick
these off and that often takes the paint with it, so to
avoid that you paint after ballast.

Don


----------

