# transitioning between code 83 and code 100



## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

I am building double loop with the inner loop being a 24 in radius reversing loop to a single mainline. Inside the inner loop I am going to have a diesel maintenance yard including a roundhouse and turn table. I am looking for a 3 leg WYE, and only found PECO who makes a code 100. I have already bought a bunch of code 83 for this portion of the track.

1). Has anyone seen a Code 83 version? I can not find one.
2). Would this single code 100 WYE be ok in a portion of layout which is code 83?
3). Should I consider building this entire area Code 100?

Thanks,
John


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

use what you have .. there are 'store bought' transition joiners to go between code 100 and code 83


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## johnfm3 (Sep 30, 2016)

I guess the follow up question to this should be, is there anything I should do on both sides of the code 100 WYE to ensure a smooth transition between the 2 different code track? Maybe a 1 inch long piece of 1mm styrene under the code 80 leading to the 3 WYE.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

Central Hobbies Shinohara Track Page (central-hobbies.com)

Not sure if the link is current, but it might be worth exploring.

Generally, extra 'gravel', or a thin sheet of styrene under the smaller code, will do the trick. Even holding the joint at the right height across it and soldering will stiffen the joint and make it smooth.


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## Jscullans (Jul 8, 2019)

It may not be the best way to go about it but I found that if you add a rail joiner to the code 100 and solder it then smash it flat with some pliers it makes the rails at the correct height. That being said you have to take care while soldering the code 83 rail to the top of the joiners to be sure you’re in gauge as well as making sure that the rails are making a smooth transition.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

use binder clips to hold the code 100 to the code 83 track while soldering. Acts as a heat sink also!


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