# Lionel 2055 Loco and 6026W Tender



## unit91 (Dec 26, 2014)

Good morning. I have three issues I'd like some help with.

First, the pivot screw for the front truck of my 2055 loco broke off. Can I replace it with any type similar screw that will work? Reason I'm asking is that the original screw seemed to be very lightweight, like aluminum or something.

Secondly, my 6026W tender only works when I manually make the contacts come into contact with each other. The magnetic switch portion isn't moving the contacts. I've checked all the wiring and there are no breaks or anything like that. Does that mean I need to replace the magnetic switch or is there some other troubleshooting I need to do?

Thirdly, the spring loaded rollers that come into contact with the track... should they be polished so that they shine? Mine are kind of dull. And should the track shine? This is my train set from childhood and I'm almost 66, so it has some age on it. I'd like my grand kids to see the old girl run!

Thanks very much!


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

You should replace the pivot screw with the correct screw, (part# 2046-28). Many parts are interchangeable from one loco to another, even though you have a 2055, the part needed is also used on a 2046/2056, etc.

The tender most likely needs a good tune-up, with new brushes under the whistle brush plate, polishing the copper faces of the armature (3 segment rotating part), and definitely clean the pick up rollers, with either Q-tip soaked in lacquer thinner, isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol, at least something strong enough to remove any crud off the rollers.

The track, if it hasn't been used in a long time, you can clean to top of the rails with a PLAIN Scotchbrite pad. The tops of the rails, need to be good and clean, to make a good electrical connection with the Loco rollers. Also, make sure all the track pins are good and tight.

Lastly, you never mentioned what type of transformer you are using, to make the whistle work. If you could at least mention what type you have. I am sure there will be others that reply to this post. There is a lot of good information, and many knowledgeable people to help. 

WELCOME TO THE FORUM


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## unit91 (Dec 26, 2014)

I have the 1033 transformer.

Also I ordered a new reversing unit. It arrived today and I need to install it. I'm thinking that as long as I solder the wires exactly like the old one was I should be OK. Is there anything else I need to be aware of as far as how that unit fits into anything else on the motor?


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

If the whistle works when you manually close the relay contacts, the whistle motor is likely OK. It may need to be lubed. I recommend 5W-20 motor oil. I have used it for years for everything. If you 2055 has not been lubed for many years I recommend you lube it before you run it. If it turns or slides, put a little oil on it. 

The problem with the whistle is most likely a problem with the transformer. If you want to do a simple test, put a D cell in series with one of the wires to the track. The whistle should blow when you turn on the transformer. The whistle relays in the tender are very reliable. 

Since the whistle is working, I wouldn't bother replacing the brushes. Whistles don't get used enough to wear out the brushes. 

When you lube the whistle motor, there is an upper and lower bearing. The upper bearing is plainly visible, but the lower bearing is behind the armature. If you don't have a pin oiler, you can use a toothpick or bend paper clip to put a few drops of oil on the lower bearing. You can lube the loco the same way. 

If you have a meter, we can suggest some tests to run on the transformer to see if the whistle control is working properly. You can buy an inexpensive meter at Harbor Freight for less than $10.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Try reversing te wires to the track. I'm assuming you are trying the tender on the track.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

I recently put together a large layout of 072 track that was made by Lionel in the late '20s and early '30s. The track is well tarnished and has a little rust. I cleaned the track by running the train around it. Much easier than any other method. The loco will polish a fine line on the top of the rails. The outside rails get polished rather quickly, but because the pickup rollers are not heavy like the loco, it takes more time to polish the center rail. If the track is dirty enough that the E unit won't stay in the forward direction, get the loco running forward and turn the E unit off until the track is clean enough that the E unit doesn't drop out. I find that running the trains is much more fun than polishing track with a ScotchBrite pad.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Reversing the wires won't make any difference. The whistle relay only works because there is some DC added to the AC power. Newer locos that have electronic whistles need to have the polarity correct.


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

First, here are the service manual pages for your locomotive.

http://pictures.olsenstoy.com//2055.htm

Second, you did not say what exactly didn't work on your tender, but most likely you are speaking of the whistle. The whistle relay is operated by a DC signal that rides on the AC track power. The whistle itself is AC powered. The DC signal is supplied by your 1033 transformer via the 'whistle' switch. The component inside the transformer that accomplishes this is a diode. The diode fails far more often then the whistle relay.

This is the diode inside your transformer.









A common repair is to replace it with a more modern part.









To see if this is the problem, buy a diode at radio shack (say 3 amp). With only the tender on the track connect your diode in line to the center rail. Turn up your track power. If the whistle blows now, the diode is your problem.


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## unit91 (Dec 26, 2014)

When you say connect a D battery in series with one of the wires to the track, what exactly do you mean by in series? Thanks.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Connect a wire from the transformer to one end of the battery. Connect the other end of the battery to one of the terminals of the lockon. Connect the other transformer terminal to the other terminal of the lockon. The battery, track (train) and transformer are now in series.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

The copper disc in the picture above is a copper oxide rectifier. If you turn it with your fingers, you have ruined it. 

A 3 amp diode is a little wimpy for some transformers. I suggest one of at least 5 amps and 50 volts or higher.


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## unit91 (Dec 26, 2014)

Well........I turned it several times last night. Guess that explains why the loco doesn't work now.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Here's a post I made on my 2055. It might help with pics and some descriptions of the work I did - including polishing the armature.

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=15477

You'll find that plain ScotchBrite pads and GooGone are your friends.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

And here's another thread on the 6026W. With a good cleaning and some lube it came right back to life.

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=15463

Good luck!


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## unit91 (Dec 26, 2014)

servoguy said:


> Connect a wire from the transformer to one end of the battery. Connect the other end of the battery to one of the terminals of the lockon. Connect the other transformer terminal to the other terminal of the lockon. The battery, track (train) and transformer are now in series.


OK. I did this and the whistle worked. How complicated is it to install the diode?


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

I have put diodes in one of my ZWs and two or three of my KWs. It is not difficult if you can figure out where to connect the diode. I can't tell from the picture where to connect the diode in the 1033. Maybe someone who has modified a 1033 can help.


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## unit91 (Dec 26, 2014)

I see some people sell the disc as well as the diode. Any difference in longevity or reliability?


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

unit91 said:


> I see some people sell the disc as well as the diode. Any difference in longevity or reliability?


The diode is far more reliable, longevity is dependent on you. Choose the correct one and it'll likely out live you. The recommendations you get here will last a good long while. Do the diode upgrade, your whistle will be more reliable and sound better.

Carl


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## unit91 (Dec 26, 2014)

Thanks to all!


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