# Rebuilding 312...what is this part?



## shaker281 (Jun 22, 2019)

Hi folks,

I am new to site and just started rebuilding a 312 locomotive that I have from childhood. So, not very experienced and this is pretty new to me. I have an almost complete All Aboard Pioneer 600 set and a late 50s Santa Fe Chief ABA set with log loader and this 312 arrangement that I got around 1969 at a garage sale. 

All have been stored for nearly 50 years and I am just assessing what exactly I still have. Most is in pretty good shape and I have cleaned and tested my 25w transformer and am looking to buy something a bit bigger too.

I am sure I will have lots of questions, but I would like to start simple. As I was disassembling the 312 locomotive unit for cleaning and lubrication and repair, out fell a small L-shaped spacer (for lack of a better term) with a small unthreaded hole in it. Of course I never saw where it came from. Can anyone tell me where it goes, maybe a part number or AF part name? 

Second question is: Although I have cleaned the reverse unit in the tender with contact cleaner, compressed air, alcohol and Q-tips, It still seems to stick in the operated position most of the time, though it releases at the slightest touch or tap. I see no bent tab or slot damage and the solenoid does operate. Any idea why this will stick in the "up" position? 

Edit: I am starting to think that the tab seemingly sticking is maybe a non-issue. If the train were running the slightest vibration or movement would cause it to drop into the resting position. 

Thirdly, where can i find a wiring diagram and pictures of the harness that attaches to the tender from the plug on the engine? Mine has two broken wires and it is unclear where they are supposed to attach. 

Edit: I found the wiring diagram - 
http://www.portlines.com/portlinesclinic10.htm

I have already re-soldered a wire to the headlight, now it lights with power applied. And re-soldered a harness wire to the plug that goes into the engine. 

Finally, can anyone advise where exactly I should apply grease and where I should apply oil? I know light oil goes on any linkages, axles and grease in the gearbox, but is there anything else I need to lubricate? 

I know this is a lot, but I do appreciate any help that I might get. :thumbsup:


Thanks, Steve


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

The factory service manual is online at myflyertrains.org, take a look at the exploded view diagrams it contains. The piece that fell out is the mounting bracket that holds the rear of the chassis assembly in the correct position in the shell. There should be two of these, one for each side.
The reverse unit likely needs rebuilt and possibly replacement fingers. Search on "flyernut" here on the forum, he has posted how to's for this. It is not hard to do.
If it moves, lube it except for the commutator face. Grease on the gears, light oil on the linkage, axles and armature shaft bearings.


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## shaker281 (Jun 22, 2019)

AmFlyer said:


> The factory service manual is online at myflyertrains.org, take a look at the exploded view diagrams it contains. The piece that fell out is the mounting bracket that holds the rear of the chassis assembly in the correct position in the shell. There should be two of these, one for each side.
> The reverse unit likely needs rebuilt and possibly replacement fingers. Search on "flyernut" here on the forum, he has posted how to's for this. It is not hard to do.
> If it moves, lube it except for the commutator face. Grease on the gears, light oil on the linkage, axles and armature shaft bearings.


Thanks! it was the armature shaft bearings specifically that had me wondering about lube. 

I'll look up the reverse unit rebuild procedure. 

Now that I know what that (rear mounting bracket) piece is, it will make locating it's position much easier. I was looking in the front. And it did seem weird there was only one, the other must still be stuck in place. 

And big thanks for the service manual info!


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

The brackets go on the drilled pads just in front of the field in you picture.


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## shaker281 (Jun 22, 2019)

AmFlyer said:


> The brackets go on the drilled pads just in front of the field in you picture.


Thanks again.

Yes, I found the location. And it seems one is missing. I could tell by the screw heads and two different sized brush springs that this was apart once before. I'll need to make something up to replace the missing piece. I don't see it on the parts diagram from the service manual, so it may be part of the housing assembly. I am missing a few screws too (flat heads on the tender), but those seem to be readily available.

Cannot seem to find that reverse unit rebuild thread by flyernut. I am assuming it was in the S gauge forum and created by flyernut. 
Using search terms like, "tender", "reverse", "unit" and "rebuild" has been fruitless, other than a basic post on a tender cleaning.

I have another question as well. When looking at the online service manual the wiring harness is indicated as a PA10511-A and that item is available online, but is 12". The actual length on mine is about 5-6" and seems to correspond to the PA10511 (6"). Can anyone clarify this?


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Take a look at Clinic #23 on the PortLines site. 
Bookmark americanflyerclub.org. All the sites you should need for reference are listed under the Flyer Website Links tab on that site.


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## shaker281 (Jun 22, 2019)

Thank you once again for taking the time to help a newbie!

I found the below reference in clinic #23 and it is exactly what I suspected, not a mechanical interference, rather a magnetized pawl. A small square of electrical tape inserted in the gap between the flapper and coil bottom proved this was the problem. Now to disassemble and clean more thoroughly. 

"Another trick that usually works....IF that pawl just refuses to drop back down, it may be because the "flapper" at the bottom of the e-unit has become magnetized, and it won't release from the solenoid coil bottom. Easy solution----glue a small fiber washer to the bottom of the solenoid coil. Now, the "flapper" cannot contact it.....it will still operate, but it will drop again when current to the coil ceases!"


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

It sounds like you are making quick progress on the 312 rebuild. The engine will run ok without those two brackets but the rear of the boiler shell will sit low.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

AmFlyer has answered all your questions for you..About that wire harness, the 12" is for a Northern, you need a 6". Don't buy the ones advertised on ebay, get it by the 3 foot section. It's cheaper, and you can adjust the length as needed. Also, make sure you have the small felt oil wick in the center of the brush assembly. And, as you re-build, check all your white insulators on your wheels to be sure they are tight and not loose. If they're loose, us some CA to glue them back. DON'T remove the wheel sets from the chassis, if you do the whole unit will have to be re-quartered.


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

flyernut said:


> AmFlyer has answered all your questions for you..About that wire harness, the 12" is for a Northern, you need a 6". Don't buy the ones advertised on ebay, get it by the 3 foot section. It's cheaper, and you can adjust the length as needed. Also, make sure you have the small felt oil wick in the center of the brush assembly. And, as you re-build, check all your white insulators on your wheels to be sure they are tight and not loose. If they're loose, us some CA to glue them back. DON'T remove the wheel sets from the chassis, if you do the whole unit will have to be re-quartered.


As Mopac says, "FlyerNut, you da man!".


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Nice thing about MTF*

You have come to the right place. I suggest viewing the S scale Forum, There is plenty of information and pictures. Don't think your engine is unique either. There are many common features between engines. The reverse unit and smoke unit being two. These guys are good and this is where I go when I get stumped.



Bob


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I do not remove this piece. The motor is made to slide into it and then you screw down the front. I have seen this piece riveted to some cast shells. Removal is more complicated with the smoke unit. The screw must come out that holds them together . Then the motor will slide out.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

BrokeCurmudgeon said:


> As Mopac says, "FlyerNut, you da man!".


I wish buddy!!


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

T-Man said:


> View attachment 499628
> 
> 
> View attachment 499630
> ...


If you're saying the screws that hold the smoke unit in place must come out first, that's not entirely correct. Before dis-assembly, the very first thing you should do is to remove the plastic or metal smoke tube inside the smoke stack. If you don't do this, you will break the red plastic smoke tube, and it will be very difficult if not impossible to remove the chassis from a engine with a brass smoke tube.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

There should be enough tutorials on the s scale threads to completely rebuild your engine and tender. At last count I think I have 6 312's.


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## shaker281 (Jun 22, 2019)

Been away and busy assessing everything I have. i want to thank you all for the time to provide this info. 

I am waiting on parts from port line and going through boxes. I appear to have 3 nearly complete sets that I want to recondition mechanically, with only minor cosmetics refurbishment. 

From what I can tell I have the All-Aboard Pioneer 600 and it is nearly complete with original transformer and I just received a used working 21165 locomotive (mine was not worth fixing). I believe I have nearly all the trees and fences, etc. 

I also have what appears to be the Santa Fe Chief Freight form 1957 (possibly cat # 20380). It appears mostly complete with a working coal dump car (original coal!) and working 977 caboose w/ bay window and brakeman. Unfortunately the A-B-A units are in a bad state. I tried fixing them when I was about 10 years old and only made things worse. But, I believe they are salvageable. I am assessing what I need to order to begin their mechanical restoration. I will probably place my next order from port line in the next few days. the A-B-A need some wiring work and complete mechanical rebuild, mostly the engine and dummy engine. 

And then the 1947/1948 312 set which is a bit more difficult to classify as a catalogue set. It has no #627 Girder Car for one thing. Otherwise, it has all the earmarks of a 1947-1949 Pennsylvania K-5 w/ automatic log loader set. But may have been a mashup of sorts. It has with it a #636 Crane Car and a #716 Operating Side Dump Hopper Car. Assumed to have been bought seperately. Along with it came the 1948 Atlantic Green #650(2) & 651 Passenger/Baggage Cars. This was a late 60's garage sale find. $10 for everything, if I recall correctly. the transformer is long gone. 

Meanwhile I have tested all engines, solenoids and motors and except for locomotive engine rebuilds, everything seems to be in good order. I am compiling a complete order list to bring everything back to a functional state. Not too worried about cosmetics. I think I prefer the original patina, plus a light cleanup. 

Questions:

What do you folks recommend for a transformer for the latter two sets? I have been looking at a MRC AC100. Any good?

It appears that Gilbert reproduced the 6-48147 S Scale Santa Fe PA AA Diesel Locomotive Set (484 engine and dummy). Might be a cost effective alternative if my vintage set is beyond repair. I am assuming these are made with can motors. I have not been able to find much on this. Are these any good? Comments on their design?


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## shaker281 (Jun 22, 2019)

flyernut said:


> There should be enough tutorials on the s scale threads to completely rebuild your engine and tender. At last count I think I have 6 312's.


LOL - Depending on how this goes I may buy another 312 in better cosmetic condition for a rebuild.

Can you tell me if the slotted smokestack that goes into the smoke chamber simply unscrews to allow the chamber to be removed from the shell? 
mine seemed tight and I did not want to break it.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

shaker281 said:


> LOL - Depending on how this goes I may buy another 312 in better cosmetic condition for a rebuild.
> 
> Can you tell me if the slotted smokestack that goes into the smoke chamber simply unscrews to allow the chamber to be removed from the shell?
> mine seemed tight and I did not want to break it.


The slotted smoke tube will simply unscrew. It should be a brass one.. When smoke fluid gets dry, it can act like glue, believe me!. If it's a red, plastic tube, it probably has been changed. Both are readily available from various parts dealers. And speaking of parts dealers, don't forget Jeff Kane at The Train Tender. He also has tons of parts, will talk to you on the phone for an hour if needed/wanted, his prices are better, and you can save even more buy buying some items in bulk..As far as the Santa Fe engines, they should be ok. I passed on a brand new set, in the box and never run, for $300 bucks. I wanted the passenger color scheme. The Flyonel PA's built back in the 80's or so were junk, and I would stay away from them.. Ask MOPAC!!.. If you need any help. post it here, or PM me..


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## shaker281 (Jun 22, 2019)

Thanks for the train tender referral! Good to know there are still guys out there you can call and discuss an order, etc.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Some thoughts on your train collection. The yellow/blue diesels are very desirable, worth getting in operating order. If they were run frequently the power trucks may need a bushing replacement to get the engine working properly.
The 1947, 48 and 49 production items can be identified by year if the original couplers are present. 1947 couplers have a thick shank but no weight. In 1948 a brass weight was added to the couplers. In 1949 and beyond the weight was black. A 1947 312 would have the smoke in tender. 1948 and beyond were smoke in boiler.
Does the 716 dump car have an outside sliding pickup shoe or pickup contacts under the truck between the wheels. The latter would be 1947, the former 1948 and later.
Most 1947 girder cars had a plastic base, either gray or off white. 1948 and later were diecast. Once you know the year of the set you can look for the correct 627.
I am not familiar with the MRC AC100. Since it has horn and whistle buttons it may not be a pure sine wave output. Those buttons will not activate original Gilbert horns/whistles and the harmonics in a non sinusoidal output will cause the horn in your Santa Fe diesel to sound continuously.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

If you decide to get a repo flyer/lionel set ask about it here. I know a bit about them.
I have 4 of the sets. Not sure why but I do. As flyernut said avoid the early 80s sets.
They have open frame AC motors with a terrible reverse unit. I have one of these sets and it has been a pain. I have 3 sets from the 1990s. They are better with DC can motors.
I might buy a 90s A-A PA set with can motor and switch shells with my 80s Southern Pacific set. I like the paint scheme. All the sets have nice paint and nice passenger cars.
Just ask if you come across a set you might want. 375.00 is a good price for one of the sets. I bought a Pony Express (Union Pacific) for 375.00.
They used to go for 500.00.


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## shaker281 (Jun 22, 2019)

AmFlyer said:


> Some thoughts on your train collection. The yellow/blue diesels are very desirable, worth getting in operating order. If they were run frequently the power trucks may need a bushing replacement to get the engine working properly.
> The 1947, 48 and 49 production items can be identified by year if the original couplers are present. 1947 couplers have a thick shank but no weight. In 1948 a brass weight was added to the couplers. In 1949 and beyond the weight was black. A 1947 312 would have the smoke in tender. 1948 and beyond were smoke in boiler.
> Does the 716 dump car have an outside sliding pickup shoe or pickup contacts under the truck between the wheels. The latter would be 1947, the former 1948 and later.
> Most 1947 girder cars had a plastic base, either gray or off white. 1948 and later were diecast. Once you know the year of the set you can look for the correct 627.
> I am not familiar with the MRC AC100. Since it has horn and whistle buttons it may not be a pure sine wave output. Those buttons will not activate original Gilbert horns/whistles and the harmonics in a non sinusoidal output will cause the horn in your Santa Fe diesel to sound continuously.


Thanks for all the great info! I have smoke in boiler and the coupler is a LC to KC conversion. The 716 dump car has the sliding shoe. So we are looking at 1948 and later. 

Thanks for the advice on the MRC AC100. Any suggestions on a good mid-priced transformer? 

I am going to try very hard to get those Chiefs running again. The good news is the B unit has not been butchered!


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## shaker281 (Jun 22, 2019)

mopac said:


> If you decide to get a repo flyer/lionel set ask about it here. I know a bit about them.
> I have 4 of the sets. Not sure why but I do. As flyernut said avoid the early 80s sets.
> They have open frame AC motors with a terrible reverse unit. I have one of these sets and it has been a pain. I have 3 sets from the 1990s. They are better with DC can motors.
> I might buy a 90s A-A PA set with can motor and switch shells with my 80s Southern Pacific set. I like the paint scheme. All the sets have nice paint and nice passenger cars.
> ...


I've seen a NIB American Flyer 6-48147 AA set for around $430 shipped. It would serve well since I have a good B unit, but I would rather get my originals running. Still, it is interesting as a backup unit, while I get things worked out. But, I don't know if they are 80s or 90s. Thanks for the info and I will take you up on advice before making a big purchase. 

This might be a dumb question, but if using a unit with DC can motors, would that entail buying a DC transformer?


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

With the exception of some 332 and 342 steam engines all American Flyer engines will run with AC track power. 
If you want to use original Gilbert transformers the 4B, 8B, 12B, 15B, 17B, 19B and 30B are all fine to use if in good condition. I always liked 19B's but they are expensive. The 15B is a less costly alternative with a dead man's handle. The 4B and 8B are not expensive and do not have rollers to wear out.
In a modern transformer MRC made a single and a dual control pure sine wave transformers but they will be expensive when you find one.
Since I operate modern Legacy engines I use a pair of ZW-L's which are off the charts expensive. For my Christmas layouts I use an MRC AH 101. They are 270W dual control but not pure sine wave. I simply just use engines on that layout without the built in horns and whistles.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

The 6-48147 was cataloged in 2009. It is a good, modern production conventional engine.
The full retail on that engine set was $369.00. Also the MRC AC100 will work well with and activate the sounds on that engine set.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Not a dumb question at all. The electronic reverse units convert the AC to DC for the motors. AC works fine.
I use a lionel ZW transformer. Hope to get a ZW-L someday. They are expensive. 8 to 900.00 range. I use the
ZW over an AF transformer because start voltage is 2 volts and AF transformers start at 7 volts. So slower speed
can be achieved with the lionel.


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## shaker281 (Jun 22, 2019)

Wow, thanks guys. This is great stuff! I spent an hour on the phone with Jeff Kane at TT and ordered many bits and pieces today. Great guy and really helpful on a phone order. I'm testing with my 25w transformer from the All-Aboard set, but am going to look into transformers next.

Soon I will start tearing into the Santa Fe Diesels. I've already ordered some missing parts (screws, plastic horns, bulbs) and new wire and finger assemblies for that project. I'm sure I will start another thread when I start running into questions on that! 

And I ordered some new "windows" for my 751 log loader and light sockets for some passenger cars and cabooses and other odds and ends. But I do digress...


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

shaker281 said:


> Wow, thanks guys. This is great stuff! I spent an hour on the phone with Jeff Kane at TT and ordered many bits and pieces today. Great guy and really helpful on a phone order. I'm testing with my 25w transformer from the All-Aboard set, but am going to look into transformers next.
> 
> Soon I will start tearing into the Santa Fe Diesels. I've already ordered some missing parts (screws, plastic horns, bulbs) and new wire and finger assemblies for that project. I'm sure I will start another thread when I start running into questions on that!
> 
> And I ordered some new "windows" for my 751 log loader and light sockets for some passenger cars and cabooses and other odds and ends. But I do digress...


I'm glad you tried Jeff.. he's a great guy and has tons of stuff for any gauge, plus he ships on the honor system.. I've put in orders with him before and have received them the next day, (he's only around 25 miles from me).. And to set the record straight, my opinion on Jeff is in no way a slam on Doug Peck and PortLines. Both guys are extremely knowledgeable and very helpful... I use them both, but Jeff is my first choice.


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