# Best formula for ballast glue/adhesive for N scale



## videobruce (Jun 15, 2011)

This isn't another how to ballast track thread, but just what do you guys feel is the best mixture of adhesive/glue and water detergent and/or Isopropyl Alcohol?

Most of the White Glue mixtures are 50/50, that and water thou I have seen 1 part glue & four parts water which seems kinda thin. That and either a few drops of IPA or liquid dishwater detergent. 
I've also read of IPA and water mixture spraying separately from the glue mixture or a combo of 1:1:1 (or similar) parts glue, water & IPA as a one step mixture which seems easier.

What do you guys think??


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

50/50 with a couple of drops of dishwashing liquid.


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## videobruce (Jun 15, 2011)

How about IPA?


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## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

Either soap or Isopropyl alcohol will work to break the surface tension. I don't think there is a clear winner between the two.

I'm planning to use 50/50 mix of Elmers Glue and water, then add either a few drops of Dawn, or a cap full of IPA.


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## videobruce (Jun 15, 2011)

Other than more cost, is Ballast cement any better?


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## Mixed Freight (Aug 31, 2019)

In a nutshell, I have had pretty good luck with..................

A gallon of water, with 4 drops/quart of liquid dish washing detergent (or 16 drops total per gallon). Advanced modelers know this as "wet water", where the liquid soap acts as a wetting agent.

A 50/50 mix of white glue and wet water. I only mix up smaller quantities as needed, so as to try and have little to none left over after ballasting.

Then of course, lightly mist the manicured ballast with wet water before applying the glue mixture.


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## videobruce (Jun 15, 2011)

How about adding the IPA to original the mix in a greater % and more water, skipping that 2nd step of misting the ballast with the IPA water?

IOW's; similar to paint with primer included (one step)?


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## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

The one good thing about "misting" the ballast first, is that once wet, the ballast sort of stays put a little better. When I was adding glue/water mix to my gravel roads, I found that without misting it first, the glue mixture wouldn't soak in as well. It seemed like the glue/water mix just pushed the fine grains around rather than soaking in.


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## Mixed Freight (Aug 31, 2019)

videobruce said:


> How about adding the IPA to original the mix in a greater % and more water, skipping that 2nd step of misting the ballast with the IPA water?
> 
> IOW's; similar to paint with primer included (one step)?


Maybe give it a try, and report back with your findings?


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

videobruce said:


> Other than more cost, is Ballast cement any better?


As you noted: Ballast cement is much better for the seller; it's essentially the same stuff as people have recommended, just packaged and market up significantly.

My technique: wet the ballast with 35% isopropyl alcohol (70% store brand diluted 50% with water). Then glue with diluted matte medium (see below). In both cases, DRIBBLE the liquid on with a pipette or dropper bottle, and aim for the ties, allowing the liquid to "wick" into the ballast. This avoids disturbing the ballast grains, and actually washes them off of the ties. You know you have enough liquid when it starts to ooze out of the edges of the ballast pile.

Why matte medium? It's an artists product, designed to change the texture of acrylic paint. It lasts virtually forever without yellowing or crumbling, and it's more flexible than glue, so it helps with sound deadening. It's available at art supply / craft stores and on-line. Yes, it's more expensive than glue, but worth it in my book.

Also, use distilled or filtered water. Minerals in your tap water may discolor the solution or affect it's adhesion properties.

Matte medium receipe: mix 1 part warm water and 4 parts matte medium in a container (I use a quart mason jar). Add 1-2 drops of liquid dish soap per cup of solution. Mix thoroughly, then allow to stand overnight. Matte medium contains talc as a dulling agent, and it can cause white spots on your layout. After the talc has settled out, decant the liquid into a second container and discard the white talc sludge.


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## pmcgurin (Sep 7, 2010)

I have a few railroad books with pictures. The tracks, especially on urban rails are pretty dirty. So, if your ballasting is more realistic than Kato, etc track, do you mix dirt in with the ballasting formula?


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

I can only add that once upon a time, in a galaxy called this one… I mixed water/glue in a 70%/30% ratio to see if it would be effective. NnnnnOPE!


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## pmcgurin (Sep 7, 2010)

I have been thinking about the grime I see on some track pictures, and I think I would mix a dilute solution of acrylic color of an appropriate color and either spray it on the roadbed or brush it on. When I was making the last layout I did, I sprayed acrylic color on some ground areas and some got on the track, which was Unitrack. I left it there as it looked more like the track photos in books. Cleaning the track removed any color that got on the track.


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

pmcgurin said:


> I have been thinking about the grime I see on some track pictures, and I think I would mix a dilute solution of acrylic color of an appropriate color and either spray it on the roadbed or brush it on. When I was making the last layout I did, I sprayed acrylic color on some ground areas and some got on the track, which was Unitrack. I left it there as it looked more like the track photos in books. Cleaning the track removed any color that got on the track.


I’ve always brushed on a wash of black acrylic. The trick I did though was to make the wash in a vapor sealing jar, like for pickles or apple sauce. Mix it all up thoroughly but….. then only do some areas where track are less traveled. Then wait, and let the paint become sediment. Usually the following day. Then I don’t haphazardly shake or stir the mixture. If you drag the brush a ross the bottom of the jar you get globs for heavy rail traffic areas, service areas, etc. 

I also often do a wash of oxide red (aged rust, not often new orange rust but occasionally) along the tie plates and outer tie/rail meeting point. I only do this in the thin manner, not globby concentrations.


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## pmcgurin (Sep 7, 2010)

OilValleyRy said:


> I’ve always brushed on a wash of black acrylic. The trick I did though was to make the wash in a vapor sealing jar, like for pickles or apple sauce. Mix it all up thoroughly but….. then only do some areas where track are less traveled. Then wait, and let the paint become sediment. Usually the following day. Then I don’t haphazardly shake or stir the mixture. If you drag the brush a ross the bottom of the jar you get globs for heavy rail traffic areas, service areas, etc.
> 
> I also often do a wash of oxide red (aged rust, not often new orange rust but occasionally) along the tie plates and outer tie/rail meeting point. I only do this in the thin manner, not globby concentrations.


Thanks for that. That would be very realistic, and I'll have to try it.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I'll second OilValley's recommendation. Just about everything on my layout gets at least I wash of something at some point. Washes are a great weathering / landscaping technique. They not only dull things down to a more natural appearance, but they destroy the uniformly colored appearance that makes things look so artificial.


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