# Future layout questions



## Stumpy (Mar 19, 2013)

First off, right now I don’t even know where in my currently unfinished basement my HO layout will be going. There’s some months of basement finishing that has to occur before that decision can be made.

The time frame for my proposed layout will be 1900-1930. Over the next few months I’ll be purchasing some locos and rolling stock as I come across deals on “gently used” stuff. In that respect time is on my side.

So far I’ve purchased these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RIVAROSSI-HO-SCALE-B-O-0-4-0-STEAM-ENGINE/372239609593

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bachmann-S...-0-Steam-Locomotive-w-Tender-NIB/282880411059


First question: In order to test the functionality of these locos, would you buy a cheap/old/used DC power pack like this…

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HO-scale-M...rmer-hobby-electric-power-supply/142719832189

… and a bit of track, or do something different?

Second question: Where do you find cars/trucks for the 1900-1930 time period? I’ve come across the Jordan Highway Miniatures, but those are going for a pretty good price. Is there anything else out there?


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## ebtnut (Mar 9, 2017)

The Tech II will do just fine for starters. The 0-4-0 most likely has deep European flanges as with all vintage Rivarossi stuff. It will run OK on Code 100 track, but does not like smaller code rail like Code 70. It is a relatively modern loco, but is within your time frame. The 4-6-0 dates to around 1910. There is early 20th Century equipment out there, but you may have to scrounge. Most rolling stock from that era was mostly wooden construction. Post World War 1 saw the increasing use of steel underframes but still with lots of wood. Passenger cars were beginning to have closed vestibules, but there was still lots of open vestibule stock out there.


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

If going DC any of the MRC Tech series will serve you well. I used their pack exclusively when I ran DC. The newer series are in the black plastic. The ones prior to that were silver metal and the oldest ones were copper colored. Mine were the silver ones. All are reliable and apply power smoothly and consistently. Avoid the pulse function on any of the older ones that may have it, do not think MRC used that. I did have on that had a boost function. This basically started the voltage slightly higher. Great for the older open frame motored locos that need more juice to get going. The MRC 7100 and 8000 series had switches on the back to increase the voltage for G scale or HO/N scale.


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

Roundhouse made allot of kits that were 34 foot refers and box cars. They are good runners with the metal floors and frames. They also made old time tank cars that would fit that period. I have picked up many of those kits over the years at train shows and on EBay. They tend to be in the $5 - $8 range.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Be aware of the gauge on the Roundhouse/MDC kits -- they made quite a lot of narrow gauge HOn3 kits as well as standard HO.


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## Stumpy (Mar 19, 2013)

Thanks for the info/replies.

I'll bid on that Tech II, then. If I can get it for $10, what could go wrong? 

I do have my eye on some of the Roundhouse "Old Timer" kits and other "Old Time" box cars, flat cars, stock cars, and tank/water cars in the 30-40' range.


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

I think when he asked for cars and trucks from 1900-1930, he was talking about automobiles.....just a guess though....

And on that note, I think Athearn made some model t/a cars and trucks from that time period, at fairly reasonable prices......try ebay for those.....


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## Stumpy (Mar 19, 2013)

Old_Hobo said:


> I think when he asked for cars and trucks from 1900-1930, he was talking about automobiles.....just a guess though....


Yep. 



Old_Hobo said:


> And on that note, I think Athearn made some model t/a cars and trucks from that time period, at fairly reasonable prices......try ebay for those.....


Aisle sea watt eye can find.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

I'm using a model of a horse&buggy as a starting point to build a model of a Holsman high-wheeler (around 1905). The only thing slowing me down is that I want to put a small motor in it to make it run, which means also making the front wheels steerable. Gonna be some difficult, tiny work! But if you just wanted a static model, it seems like many of the early autos were nothing more than converted horse-drawn carriages, which can be easily found.


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## Stumpy (Mar 19, 2013)

Found some autos/trucks from the period.

http://stores.ebay.com/WISEMAN-MODE...l?_fsub=12&_sid=2417392&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322


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## Stumpy (Mar 19, 2013)

Next question: PECO code 83 turnouts - the most angle they make is the #5 at 11.4 degrees?


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

I had the same problem trying to find any turnouts made by Peco that were labeled as #6 or #8. "Wide" and "narrow" is not too descriptive when you are trying to plan precisely.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

That rivarossi loco might not like code 83 track. The big flanges might ride on the ties.


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## Stumpy (Mar 19, 2013)

MichaelE said:


> I had the same problem trying to find any turnouts made by Peco that were labeled as #6 or #8. "Wide" and "narrow" is not too descriptive when you are trying to plan precisely.


If you go to their site it gives the angle of the turnout.

https://www.peco-uk.com/prodtype.asp?strParents=3309,3322&CAT_ID=3327&numRecordPosition=1

I find it hard to believe that all they have in code 83 are 11.4, 9.5 & 7.15 degrees.


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## Stumpy (Mar 19, 2013)

mopac said:


> That rivarossi loco might not like code 83 track. The big flanges might ride on the ties.


Yeah. I'm thinking about dedicating that to my logging camp spur. The plan was for that to be narrow gauge, but, if I use that loco on it I can make it a dedicated DC run and won't have to slap a DCC decoder in it.


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

mopac said:


> That rivarossi loco might not like code 83 track. The big flanges might ride on the ties.


I have a Rivarossi cab forward and it has no issue with the Peco code 83 track. The biggest issue is that the tender is to light.


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## Stumpy (Mar 19, 2013)

More questions...

Those that use an air brush, what compressor do you use? I have the "shop" compressor but it's way to big and loud. I need something smaller and about a million decibels quieter.

Rerailers: Do you use them? Where?

Feeder track sections: Do you use them or solder to the regular track sections?

What do you use to create custom decals?


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

I solder to the outside of the rail. Use a heat sink on the rail you are working and only leave the iron on the rail long enough to flow the solder into the joint. 

Using flex track with many pieces seemingly wanting to line up on curves, those joints are soldered too.


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## Mark VerMurlen (Aug 15, 2015)

Stumpy said:


> Those that use an air brush, what compressor do you use? I have the "shop" compressor but it's way to big and loud. I need something smaller and about a million decibels quieter.


I also have a shop compressor out in my garage. I've bought a 10 gallon air tank from a car parts store and put a pressure regulator on it and fittings necessary to feed my airbrush. When I want to paint, I'll fill the tank with about 80 lbs of pressure from my shop compressor. I then bring the air tank into the house to use for air brushing. Its completely silent. I can get a lot of airbrush time using this setup before I have to refill the air tank. Works well for me.



Stumpy said:


> Rerailers: Do you use them? Where?


I have a couple of rerailers on my layout. Since I don't like the look of them, I have them positioned in hidden portions of my mainline track. This ensures that each time a train loops around my mainline, it runs over a couple of rerailers. I know that some people use them where they have road crossings over their tracks to help disguise them.



Stumpy said:


> Feeder track sections: Do you use them or solder to the regular track sections?


I don't use feeder track sections. I don't like the looks of them. I instead solder small gauge feeders to the outside of my flex track. If you can do some soldering, its easy to do.

Mark


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Stumpy said:


> Those that use an air brush, what compressor do you use? I have the "shop" compressor but it's way to big and loud. I need something smaller and about a million decibels quieter.


You CAN use that, but a dedicated airbrush compressor is much better. They don't sell my model anymore, but this is pretty much the same thing: https://www.micromark.com/Paasche-Portable-Air-Compressor

You should also add a regulator and moisture trap, similar to this: https://www.micromark.com/Pressure-Regulator-Gauge-Moisture-Trap



Stumpy said:


> Rerailers: Do you use them? Where?


Nope. I try to lay bulletproof track work, which makes them unnecessary. 

For putting things on the rails, one of these: https://www.walthers.com/rail-it



Stumpy said:


> Feeder track sections: Do you use them or solder to the regular track sections?


Soldered feeders every 8-ish feet. AWG 18 wire through a small hole drilled between the ties outside the rails; bend to 90 degrees and solder to the outside. 

Note that it's actually best to remove a few ties where you plan to do this, then slip them back under after soldering.



Stumpy said:


> What do you use to create custom decals?


An inkjet printer and Evan Design decal paper (which is white but can be turned clear with the application of a solvent to an unsealed decal). But I don't do anything really complicated.

For many applications, a paper sign, gently sanded to be a little thinner, works just fine.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

DCC drop soldering:










Rail joint soldered and dressed:


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## ebtnut (Mar 9, 2017)

Another airbrush option, though a bit pricey for start-up - get a tank of dry nitrogen from the local supplier, if there's one in your vicinity. Depending on how much you use it, a tank might last several years before you need to trade it in for a full one. You still need the pressure regulator, but can probably dispense with the moisture trap with the dry nitrogen.


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## Stumpy (Mar 19, 2013)

Thanks for the info, folks. 

:thumbsup:


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## Stumpy (Mar 19, 2013)

I went with this compressor.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-QUI...ctric-Hot-Dog-Quiet-Air-Compressor/1000405185

It is quiet... and it's got enough oompf to drive the framing nailer (basement refinish project is in high gear).


Next question: How high is your layout?


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## Nikola (Jun 11, 2012)

ebtnut said:


> Another airbrush option, though a bit pricey for start-up - get a tank of dry nitrogen from the local supplier, if there's one in your vicinity. Depending on how much you use it, a tank might last several years before you need to trade it in for a full one. You still need the pressure regulator, but can probably dispense with the moisture trap with the dry nitrogen.


A small dive tank (very high psi) will not last years running an airbush. Hours, not years, is more like it.


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## Nikola (Jun 11, 2012)

MichaelE said:


> DCC drop soldering:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The top photo looks like a cold joint. Solder is blobbed on; the underlying metal was not hot enough for it to flow out, or was dirty. It might be OK for a very low current situation.


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## deedub35 (Jan 29, 2014)

Nikola said:


> The top photo looks like a cold joint. Solder is blobbed on; the underlying metal was not hot enough for it to flow out, or was dirty. It might be OK for a very low current situation.


I've always used liquid flux before soldering. Stuff works awesome. I don't have to hold the soldering iron on the rails as long and the solder seems to flow better. I've never had melted ties or bad solder connections.


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