# Decoder Installation Typical Kato N Scale



## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

Time to install decoders in my Kato F40PH locomotives. The instructions are not very clear so here is some everyone can follow, with pics. 

Kato diesel locomotives are all mostly the same. Here I’m installing a Digitrax DN163K0D in a F40PH, but yours will be very similar.


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

*Step 1*

Pry off the locomotive’s shell by gently pulling the sides away from the chassis. I found starting with the rear of the body worked best. You may need to use a small screwdriver like the one shown.


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

*Step 2*

Ok there is a small plastic clip that holds the factory light board in place (screwdriver is pointing at it). You must remove this to release the light board. To remove it simply pry up on it with the screwdriver. Once it’s removed slide the light board forward to release it.


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

*Step 3*

Now that the light board is removed you need to remove the brass strips that transfer power from the wheels to the board. Lift up on both of the grey plastic retainers shown. Then remove the brass strips. 

NOTE: Remember where the motor leads are for the next step.


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

*Step 4*

There is some Kapton tape on the decoder that is placed over the motor leads and other sensitive components. If you don’t have any you can use some from the decoder for isolating the pickup leads from the motor leads. Either way remove enough to expose the motor leads on the decoder. 

Next use new or recycled from the decoder Kapton tape to create an insulated layer on the pickup leads (the brass strips) where they contact the motor. Then reinstall in the chassis and return the retainers at each end.


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

*Step 5*

Time to install the decoder. 

Place the decoder on the chassis just like the light board was, making sure that the clip in the rear slides into the correct location and the motor leads are on top not under the decoder. Slide decoder back at least until the hole near the motor leads lines up with the hole in the chassis. 

At this point I found it is best to slightly kink the motor leads slightly down to help make better contact with the decoder. Reinstall the retainer clip making sure the motor leads are under it as the clip keeps them in contact with the decoder.


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

*Step 6*

It’s a good idea at this point to test the locomotive before putting the shell on, just incase something isn’t right. If all goes well then reinstall shell by simply pushing it down over the chassis of the locomotive. 


That’s it folks, I hope you find this helpful and if anyone has any tricks or tips to add feel free.


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## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

When I installed into my PA-1s, I made several mistakes. First I lost the little clip that you removed in step #2...don't do that! I found I had to solder the board at one spot. When I tried to test the engine, I saw a bright glow, a puff of smoke, and then nothing. Got another board, tried same sequence...glow, smoke, nothing!! Got a third board, sent everything to Mike Fifer of Fifer Hobby Supply, and he installed them for me! I love N-scale, but really shouldn't be messing with stuff that small! LOL.


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

Letting out magic smoke always bad.


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## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

Massey said:


> Letting out magic smoke always bad.


Yeah, Alcos were famous for smoking, but not the model trains!!


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## HFK (Apr 2, 2018)

This comes in real handy for automotive and arcade game repairs. You just need to grab the circuit board version.


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