# Decoupling railroad cars



## Cab1 (Jul 26, 2009)

I was watching a Youtube video showing a switching operation on a small HO scale layout. It was pretty cool, but it left me wondering how the actual decoupling of each individual railroad car was done. In the real world, a railroad worker standing track side in the yard had to uncouple each car or cars by hand. 

I know this because my nephew worked for Dow Chemical running a small switcher in one of their yards in Texas. Even though it was a small yard it was dangerous work. You have to keep your head on straight - no fooling around. I can imagine how hectic it must be in a really big yard, like in New York or Chicago. I understand the tracks in a big yard are on a slight grade, the cars roll back on their own, so braking is involved too.

Getting back to the Youtube video, they obviously must have some kind of remote decoupling device in the track. I'm guessing you would need one for every side track and spur in the yard. I suppose that's okay for a small layout, but what what if you wanted to model a good size yard as well as the track spurs behind manufacturing warehouses and other customers. How would you set something like that up?


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Several companies make magnetic uncouplers that are hidden under the track, and serve to uncouple cars when the coupling is parked over the magnet. You can only uncouple (using that method anyway) at a spot where you've placed a magnet, so you'd need a lot for a big layout.

Personally, I prefer the old-fashioned "uncoupling pick" (I use 1/2 of a bamboo skewer inserted into a handle made from a 3/8" dowel). Not as slick, perhaps, but to my mind it better simulates having to have someone one the ground pull the pin in the coupler.


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## GNfan (Jun 3, 2016)

This is the easiest way to do it in n-scale; and they are also made in HO:


http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Micro-trains-N-1311-Magne-Matic-R-Uncoupler-p/mtl-98800173.htm

it's just a bar magnet set in a piece of Atlas sectional track. Mine is 30 years old and it's still magnetized


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

When cars pass over uncoupling magnets, there is a chance the cars could decouple even when just passing through. Because of that, permanent magnets are only used on spurs where there is no through-traffic. If you want uncoupling on a mainline, use an electromagnet so decoupling only occurs when you want it to.

While electromagnets are a bit more involved, permanent magnets are dead-simple and can be picked up cheaply. For example, some folks will use a stack of small neodymium magnets to replace ties in the track, effectively hiding the magnets from casual viewing.









If you look on modern knuckle couplers, you'll see a curved wire hanging down from them. The magnets pull them apart, so you stop the train with the couplers over the magnets, then maybe back up slightly to give a little slack, and the couplers will pop apart. Then you can pull forward again, leaving the end of the train behind.

[EDIT] Oops, guess that picture has the magnets *between* the ties... but other examples I've seen use the magnets to replace the ties, and as the picture shows the magnets can be the same width as ties and painted the same color.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I have the super magnet uncouplers under my yard 
tracks and industrial spurs. I have one Kadee
electromagnet uncoupler in a main. Each has
a visible indicator which locates them.

They work well most of the time. However, when I'm
running a switching session, I find that the HOG (hand of
God) method is used the most. This is a small plastic
or wood rod. BBQ skewers are examples. You file one
end to a flat tip that fits into the coupler knuckles. A
deft twist and the couplers open (most of the time).
It takes practice though.

Some others use a hand held 'fork' with magnets
attached to the two tines that fit over the coupling.
The magnets open the knuckles.

As to uncoupling real rail cars, notice the grounds men flip a
lever on the car that unlocks the knuckles and the cars uncouple.

Don


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

I use either a Rix uncoupler, or the old 0-5-0 switcher (my hand)....

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=318010&stc=1&d=1497641757

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=318018&stc=1&d=1497641864


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Uncoupling*



Cab1 said:


> I was watching a Youtube video showing a switching operation on a small HO scale layout. It was pretty cool, but it left me wondering how the actual decoupling of each individual railroad car was done. In the real world, a railroad worker standing track side in the yard had to uncouple each car or cars by hand.
> 
> I know this because my nephew worked for Dow Chemical running a small switcher in one of their yards in Texas. Even though it was a small yard it was dangerous work. You have to keep your head on straight - no fooling around. I can imagine how hectic it must be in a really big yard, like in New York or Chicago. I understand the tracks in a big yard are on a slight grade, the cars roll back on their own, so braking is involved too.
> 
> Getting back to the Youtube video, they obviously must have some kind of remote decoupling device in the track. I'm guessing you would need one for every side track and spur in the yard. I suppose that's okay for a small layout, but what what if you wanted to model a good size yard as well as the track spurs behind manufacturing warehouses and other customers. How would you set something like that up?


Cab1;

Magnetic uncouplers can be set up to cover more than one track. You don't necessarily need an uncoupler magnet for each, and every, siding. 
Micro-Trains/Kadee, and possibly some other brands of magnetic couplers, can be uncoupled at a centrally located magnet, and then pushed, still uncoupled, to another spot. Kadee calls this "delayed uncoupling."
It's also possible to use a permanent magnet, instead of an electromagnet, to uncouple only when you want to. The magnet is under the track, and hinged at one end. The magnet can be kept lowered in the "off" position and trains can pass over it without uncoupling. When you want to uncouple a car, raise the magnet to its directly-under-the-track, "on" position. My 6-track passenger station is set up this way.
The delayed uncoupling system depends on smooth, continuous, pushing by the locomotive. If it stops, the cars may re-couple. With today's reliable locomotives, flywheels, "keep alive" capacitors, and the precise slow speed control of DCC, stalling should be less likely.
The uncoupling with a stick method CTValley mentioned is very popular because it's very simple, and reliable. No magnets, or steady pushing, are needed. It also simulates the kind of "worker manual uncoupling" you saw your nephew doing at Dow Chemical.
So, there are many ways of uncoupling. Which system you use is simply a matter of personal preference.
A few new, premium priced, locomotives even have remote control couplers that can be operated by DCC, anywhere on the layout. This system may possibly be the wave of the future. It does away with magnets, trying to smoothly push cars so as not to re-couple them, or even the unrealistic H.O.G. giant stick from above. It will take a lot of R&D and cost reduction if it will ever get to the point of uncoupling any car anywhere. Right now this feature is only available on the locomotive. That won't help if you want to uncouple a car further back in the train. 

regards;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## RT_Coker (Dec 6, 2012)

traction fan said:


> Cab1;
> ...
> Micro-Trains/Kadee, and possibly some other brands of magnetic couplers, can be uncoupled at a centrally located magnet, and then pushed, still uncoupled, to another spot. Kadee calls this "delayed uncoupling."
> ...


The “delayed uncoupling” becomes a lot more reliable with tachometer-based-scale-distance-control.
Bob


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## JNXT 7707 (May 5, 2013)

RT_Coker said:


> The “delayed uncoupling” becomes a lot more reliable with tachometer-based-scale-distance-control.
> Bob


Yes, I imagine it would :sly:


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## time warp (Apr 28, 2016)

With so many using Kadee or similar couplers it amazes me that there are so many questions about uncoupling methods. Does no one read the literature that is enclosed in every packet of Kadee couplers? Magnetic uncoupling should be no secret, they are called "Magne Matic" couplers.
.


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## slammin (Mar 25, 2016)

time warp said:


> With so many using Kadee or similar couplers it amazes me that there are so many questions about uncoupling methods. Does no one read the literature that is enclosed in every packet of Kadee couplers? Magnetic uncoupling should be no secret, they are called "Magne Matic" couplers.
> .


Literature???? I thought that neatly folded piece of paper was inserted to take up space in the envelope so the contents wouldn't move around so much!


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## time warp (Apr 28, 2016)

Precisely!


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

Some, not all, clubs do not permit the use of the trip wires couplers come with because they tend to catch on turnouts, etc. I have no magnets on my layout, I use the bamboo skewer method. A couple dollars at the grocery store buys a lifetime supply!


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## time warp (Apr 28, 2016)

No magnets here either, I still use horn/ hooks!


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

Well, there's no accounting for some people's taste....


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## time warp (Apr 28, 2016)

Don't worry, you'll come around eventually!:smilie_auslachen:


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Better watch out, the HOG (hand of God) will get you.

Don


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## Cab1 (Jul 26, 2009)

The simplest way is most often the best way. I can appreciate that, but not every car I have has Kadee couplers, and if you have several customers with spur lines behind them scattered over your layout that's gonna require a lot of magnetic uncouplers. It's gonna be expensive no matter how you look at it - unless you wanna stop what you're doing every five minutes, or have a second person run around uncoupling cars for you. I don't want to do that. I want to create something akin to a 3D video game, but in the real world. I don't want to just sit there and watch a loco go around and around. I want to make it as tough as possible where you have to figure out how to move cars around on and off the main line, to a yard or another customer, while other trains are running. This would require not only a lot of switching to get the cars in the right sequence, so they can be delivered efficiently to where they need to go, but also routing and signaling to avoid colliding with other traffic.


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## JimL (Aug 16, 2015)

Shdwdrgn said:


> .....While electromagnets are a bit more involved, permanent magnets are dead-simple and can be picked up cheaply. For example, some folks will use a stack of small neodymium magnets to replace ties in the track, effectively hiding the magnets from casual viewing......


Even magnets just covered with ballast can look better than the stock uncoupling magnets ...


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## dave2744 (Dec 18, 2014)

JimL, what a neat idea. Steel screws inserted where required, and magnets attach themselves. Simplicity is the hardest to achieve, but works the best. Thanks for the pics.

Just dawned on me, you can also adjust the magnets simply by turning screws in or out!


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

And, if the screws are steel, they add to the magnetic
power. No need for the steel plate.

Don


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## ebtnut (Mar 9, 2017)

Two things you must do to get reliable coupling and uncoupling of magnetic couplers - get a Kadee coupler/track gauge to insure that the couplers are at the right height and that the trip pins have proper clearance over the rail head; make sure that the couplers swing very easily in the box so the delayed action works properly. Kadee made a dry graphite-based lubricant (Grease-em) for this purpose but other similar products will do as well.


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## Big Blue (Jan 25, 2017)

How important is the steel plate with the magnet?


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I don't know the science of magnetism, but it has been
demonstrated that using a thin steel plate (or steel
screws as earlier suggested) will improve the magnetic
pull. This is important as some couplers are a little
harder to move. You can see the couplers snap apart
when over a powerful magnet.

Don


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

I'm not an expert either, but I believe the steel plate doesn't actually increase the magnetic strength -- rather it spreads it out a little more so you have a larger, more even field instead of one very small area to work in. The best analogy I can think of is that instead of having a mountain peak you have a wide mesa, which gives you a larger area to perform the decoupling operation.

Another thought occurred to me... the steel plate also probably deflects the magnetic field. Instead of having half your field above the track and half below, it pushes more of the magnetic field above the track, so in essence it does increase the magnetic field seen by the couplers.


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## Big Blue (Jan 25, 2017)

THank you!


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## ncrc5315 (Jan 25, 2014)

If I remember my electromagnetism from tech school correctly, the steel plate concentrates the magnetic field lines, in other words, instead of being spread out, they are more confined to the area of the metal plate, giving the appearance of a stronger magnetic field to the coupler pins.


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