# looking for feedback..



## flyerrich (Feb 17, 2014)

I am new to the forum and have been reading some responses to posts. I felt it is a good place to get some valuable info. I am close to starting my HO layout and am looking for some input. I had an HO layout previously back in the 80's. I see much has changed. My previous layout was as Atlas "cookie cutter" design. I used all Atlas snap track code 100, switches etc. I was considering another "cookie cutter" plan they offered but maybe the present methods are more flexible? I was also thinking DCC (MRC Prodigy Express sq'ed) and then run all switches on a separate DC power supply? I will await some replys. Thanks


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## timlange3 (Jan 16, 2013)

What do you want to model and how much space do you have? Any SWMBO limitations? Physical space is usually the limiter for most of us. Don't expect to run an A-B-B-A 30 car heavyweight passenger train on a 4'x8'! 

I like a shelf railroad, either fastened to the wall or on free standing legs, no more than 24" deep for easy reach and to get close to the action. Shoulder height works for me. When the kids were young I built a 12"x48" padded stool for them which worked fine.

The shelf railroad (around the whole room?) will get you the largest radii for your turns. A bridge or swing gate section to clear doorways. With a slight grade you can get a twice around and double your main line length.

A high enough shelf will allow you to put furniture under the railroad and against the wall, such as work table, desk, TV, stereo, bookcases, bed, one end of the dining room table ... Your walk around the railroad will be shorter being on the inside, you can even cut straight across. A 7'x9' 12" shelf railroad uses as much plywood as a 4'x8'.


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

I had a cookie cutter set up. That bench work is a pain, but the trains liked it and the grades were gentle. Never knew plywood could flex like that!

Research the DCC. MRC seems to have a high failure rate. I use a digitrax controller at home (DCS 100 SuperChief) and an NCE power cab for the portable layput.


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## flyerrich (Feb 17, 2014)

I guess I will check further into the DCC control side. Do you recommend DCC over DC?


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

Personally, I do. I am in the process of converting my locomotives to DCC. New DCC locomotives and be quite spendy!


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## flyerrich (Feb 17, 2014)

I was leaning towards a 4' or 5' x 10' or 12' have room all around. Looking at steam and early diesel.


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

5x12 would be good!


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Since you have experience with HO sectional track and know it's
limitations, consider going with Flex track this time around. It
comes in 3 foot sections and you can bend it to fit the track
design you want, not just what you can do with rigid sectional.

DCC makes possible train operations you could never do on a
DC system, for example, trains running in opposite directions
the same track. Or a back and forth switching operation while
another train makes its way around your main line.

Further, the wiring for DCC is simple. Just a few drops from the
track to a buss powered by your controller is all that's needed
for most moderate layouts. No complex switches and cables.

Most of us have our own favorite DCC system. It appears that
NCE and Digitrax are the most popular and offer the most
capabilities. You won't go wrong with an inexpensive Bachmann starter set
and upgrade as you gain experience.

Yes, you do need a separate source to power turnouts and other
accessories. Many modellers use old DC power packs which are
available cheap. Another accessory power source are the wall warts
that have been used for various gadgets. My layout lighting gets
it's 10.5 v DC juice from a wall wart that once powered a VHS tape rewinder.

The Forum guys are here to share their knowledge with you any time
you have a question or problem.

Don


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## Locodub (Nov 18, 2013)

:thumbsup: for DCC, I have used Digitrax at my club, it has worked well for us, but I'm sure you will find fans of most major brands.

Try to keep your bench-work at a comfortable working height, and narrow enough that you can reach the back, or middle if a table, easily, without damaging scenery. 

One thing we are working on at the club is removing kinks and bends in the track-work, and upgrading to Peco turnouts, most turnouts are Atlas right now, and after 13 years in their current configuration, they are wearing out. We use manual switches almost everywhere, except for a few hard to reach areas.

Just my two-cents anyway, I'm still learning a good bit myself, this forum has some good information.


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## flyerrich (Feb 17, 2014)

Thanks for the input. Do most of you buy from online. We have very limited resources near me. The one hobby shop doesn't have much inventory I'm sure the cost is probably prohibitive.


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

I get most of my stuff at Model Trains Stuff.

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/

They ship fast and prices are for the most part good with a big inventory.
Very helpful if you have problems as well. 

Magic


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## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

go DCC now. you will not be sorry.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Before buying anything on line check the train items
for sale here on the Forum

Craiglist, Toys and Games or Collectibles is a good source
of used model gear at very low prices. Much of it is from
the estate of a deceased modeller.

If you buy on line shop around. Amazon and Ebay each have
a multitude of dealers each with it's own price. Their reliability
is usually noted on the site.

Don


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## wcsjr1 (Dec 10, 2012)

You might also look for a train show in your area. Do your research on line so you know what a good price is. Always offer less than the asking price and then if you get it wonder how much less they would have taken. We have a good show about four times a year in Timmoinium, MD. Local clubs set up large layouts for display.

It looks like there is a show coming to your town in March. http://www.modeltrainshows.com/2009/03/new-york-train-shows.html

The one I attend is by the Great Scale Model Train Show. Don't know how the ModelTrainShows compares. One newbe to another, have a great time.


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## flyerrich (Feb 17, 2014)

thanks


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## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

this past week end there was one in buffalo.


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## flyerrich (Feb 17, 2014)

Yeah found out sun PM


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## Phillaz (Jan 20, 2014)

I have been looking for trucks that snap in to the body, or a way to fill that large hole and put in new trucks. Most also need couplers. Have not hat a layout for some time and all my stuff is old and cheap. Backman ,tyco life-like etc. Any ideas? Thanks


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Phillaz said:


> I have been looking for trucks that snap in to the body, or a way to fill that large hole and put in new trucks. Most also need couplers. Have not hat a layout for some time and all my stuff is old and cheap. Backman ,tyco life-like etc. Any ideas? Thanks


You would probably have more success filling the hole the snap in
trucks use with a dowel. Then, get regular trucks that use a screw
to hold them in. They are available on line and in hobby shops.
NIMT here on the Forum has Intermountain HO trucks.

Kadee Couplers, #148, or #5 would replace most old horn hook
couples. #148 is slightly easier to assemble since they use
the 'whisker' centering wires.

It's actually quite simple and a nice pass time to do the conversion
of old cars, even the Tycos, Bachmann, and Mantuas of old.

It is recommend that you get a Kadee Insulated height gauge
so your couplers will work correctly.

Don


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## flyerrich (Feb 17, 2014)

A couple of questions: 
1) Can I get an explanation for the difference of code 83 and code 100 track. 
2) I was checking on Peco track and turnouts but I haven't seen the motors to switch them?
thanks


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

The difference in code 83 and code 100 tracks is the height
of the rail, with code 100 highest. Code 83 is thought to
be nearer to scale and more attractive on the layout.

There are several motors for Peco turnouts. The most commonly used 
are the PL-10. Here is but one dealer for it.

http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=PEPL-10

PL-10 can be attached to the Peco turnouts using the 4 small rectangular
hole in the ties. This requires a hole approx. 1" square in your layout.
But, they can be ordered with an extended throw pin and mountd under
the table. 

The PL-11 is designed to side mount on the turnout similar
to Atlas.

Some prefer to use the slo throw Tortoise motor that also
is mounted under the table. They work well with Peco turnouts.

Don


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## flyerrich (Feb 17, 2014)

I am taking the advice of you guys in the forum and looking at ebay,forum and other sites for used track etc. What is the difference in the Peco turnouts "insulfrog" and "electro frog" can't find an explanation anywhere and can code 83 and 100 track be connected as long as the rail height is maintained? thanks again for all you help


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## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

walthers sells a track that will transition code 100 to code 83.
item # 948-897


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

The difference in a Peco Insulfrog and their Electrofrog
is that the Electrofrog frog is solid metal and the power to it must
be thrown by a switch on the turnout motor. Whereas the 
Insulfrog can be used with no special wiriing.

It is highly recommended that you go with Insulfrog.
They are by far the easiest to use and you just
don't have derails on them.

Be aware, however, Insulfrog turnouts use the power
routing system. They throw the power to the track
selected by the points. The power to the other track
is turned off. Many of us add drops to the tracks
beyond the turnout to avoid unpowered tracks.

Don


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## flyerrich (Feb 17, 2014)

thanks for the help you guys a awesome


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## flyerrich (Feb 17, 2014)

where do I go to get some info on what size certain steam engines where used for ex. yard operations, ore trains , steel mill types and passenger types. Am starting my HO layout and want to use primarily steam with some earlier type diesel. thanks


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

flyerrich said:


> where do I go to get some info on what size certain steam engines where used for ex. yard operations, ore trains , steel mill types and passenger types. Am starting my HO layout and want to use primarily steam with some earlier type diesel. thanks


That question's answer would be too long for a quick answer.
It would depend on the year too.

The first patented compression ignition engine was in 1892.
The 1950's is when the Diesel really started taking over steam engines.

To answer your question would require an answer to this,
What era (year) are you going to model? 
Different years saw many changes.

By the 1960's most of the steam locomotives were gone, replaced by diesels.


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## flyerrich (Feb 17, 2014)

I am not going to be too concerned about the actual era. I am just planning on a layout I can enjoy that would be near the end of the Steam era and the early years of Diesel. I would like to have engines that would be near that era so I am not too far out of line but would have both types of engines.. I plan on having some coal industry (mining), possibly a steel mill, lumber that type of thing. The engines that would be used in a steel yard, coal mining area staging cars for the mainline etc. and engines that would be used on the mainline. Thanks


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