# Type G Signal



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

After working with the Ho Scale Signals I planned out an I scale version. In town there is a Type G Signal in the photo. A good candidate to model. An old premade signals are still available but I wanted to try something different. This one I made practically at no cost. I had the wire, the pen was 15 cents in a package. For 3 bucks at Radio Shack you get enough to do four signals. The investment was small, since I do plenty of other things too. In a way there is may not be a cheep way, I have many supplies on hand that cost. So here I define two schools of thought, Buy it or make it. You need resources for the latter. 

This was a fun project I hope you enjoy it. In the future I plan on using it with an automatic block project. I will set the LEDs to work with 12 volts DC, the same as the relay I will use.










Parts List
1/4 wire screen
water jug top
wooden spool
thin wire
scrap plastic from a dollar store tool package or a popsicle stick
scrap plywood
gloss silver, green and flat black acrylic craft paint
2 1 k resistors and 1 470 k resistor.
paper mate eagle pen
telephone wire
Of course, super glue and epoxy.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*No spooling around*

The base is a spool cut at the top, I sanded the sides flat and beveled the top. The dremel drum sander worked fine for this. I finished it with large finger nail files. I am starting to use these more. You get them in various sizes at the dollar store. The pen I removed the ink and kept the tip as the finial. I cut the inkwell shaft at the top and glue a tooth pick in the pen tip. I tried to minimize the ink spread.












I have a bad internet connection tonight. I have lost it twice tonight. I am having trouble with images so post me if you can't see them. They seem to be working fine now.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Epoxy Time is happy time. All the time!!!!!!*

I cut the wire to make a ladder and set the end into a press board base. I used a dremel cutting wheel to cut into the sides and one cut across for the ladder rung to rest in. The rung cut not all the way through. I then epoxied it into place. Normally I use quarter inch plywood but this was handy and faster. I used heavy scissors to cut the wire and I have a small cutter to trim the nibs left. This cutter is actually a cuticle cutter. I have seen them at wall mart. I use it a lot for triming electrical ends on the components. It has a neat little edge to cut with. I didn't buy but it came in a box of trains. The water cap has three drilled 3/16th holes for 5 mm LEDs, and painted it flat black. The three holes are in a triangle patern flat at the top and offset to the left to leave room to attach it to the pole.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The first picture shows the trim work on the ladder. I cut the plastic as the ladder stand. The pole was notched to accept it and epoxied in. This prvent the wires from runing down so my acces hole had to be lower as in the actual picture. Mounting the face was hard I used a small pices of 1/4 inch plywood. TO keep it in place I drilled two 1/16th holes through it and used small wire to hold it. I epoxied the out side joints for support. Overall it still points off at a small angle but faces the general direction. During this operation, I did a finger biopsey. After all it is small.

The black on the right is the epoxy over the wire holding the face. The small plywood piece is in between them.
The only plastic I used is on the right to hold the ladder. Here a popsicle stick works too.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

T-Man, you should add Image links to your attachments so you don't have to open each one, they'll just appear in the message.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I am editting now, but I had problems last night. I uploaded pictures and the system shut down. I will do the links again.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Those computers, never work when you need them.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Wired Up*

Here is a nice ugly in process picture. The LEDs are soldered up. Three connections broke when place in to the face. I burned another finger getting the laser wire on. Luckily Istill have 25 left. Right TJ?
It was nice working on something larger for a change.










I epoxied over all the exposed wiring and painted black or silver.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Sorta done*

Aside from two sidelined fingers, bad internet connections a sticky enter button and a wireless mouse that takes frequent breaks. Also my Google wrestle match that tried to get me into "I google" and couldn't google back to normal google, I resorted to HiJack this and eliminated every google line in my startup. I felt better. I probably set my computer weeks back in operation but I was desperate. So here is my final answer. All I want to do next is add a number plate like the original.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I don't let Google start anything in my machine. 

I think that signal build is similar to seeing sausage being made. You don't want to watch the process, but the end result is fine.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The resistors are added, 1 k for read and yellow each and a 470 ohm for green.
I have a side by side comparison with a block signal too. 











A little better on the focus part here.


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## novice (Feb 2, 2011)

Wow, looks darn good. I'm so envious of you guys able to do this stuff.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

T-Man,

*Excellent *custom MacGyver construction ... milk-jug tops and all! I like the exposed wiring at the top ... offers an extra sense of realisim. Where did the "black hole board" in your first pic fit in?

(Sorry about the fingers ... glad you have 25 left!)

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

This is my first design for a DC setup , nothing fancy just pvc pipe.












TJ, It was used as the tiny platform holding the ladder to the pole. I used a small piece from the top. It was thinner than the plywood. I could of used a popsicle stick too. The width would of been right. That piece is the backing to a cheep tool bought at a dollar store or Big Lots. It says Bench Tool. Sears has something similiar to hang tools off hooks. To do stuff you gotta have parts box, full.

The Type G Signal is not made anymore so it is a period piece.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

The local trashmen must love swinging buy your house ... always empty barrels ... "Gee .. the guy who lives here never throws anything out!?!"

I received my "crazy box of 1681's and other misc parts/stuff" today. And I do mean misc stuff ... looks like my parts box is starting to fill up a bit more!

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

It's a bad habit. I constanly look for shapes and materials. Well you know Mac D's toys  and I check most isles in a craft store especially the wood and paint sections. I spend more than the wife on visits, and my acrylic collection exceeds hers. I got most of mine at liquidation. 

The wires were stiff and my solder connections had trouble holding. The thin number 30 wire would work but it is thin. I just need more practice.

I am currently researching the plastic tops to Barbersol cans.

I need to use up the ink from the pens before I try again.


Maybe I should sell. See this link.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

That's a great looking signal! Great job.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Excellent T!:thumbsup:

You got any heat shrink to put around the wires?

All it needs is something to hide the wires.:thumbsup:

I would have never guessed that from the pictures in the other post. I doubt if anyone would have.:thumbsup:


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I would need smaller wire. This is too stiff. Perhaps if the access hole was larger. I am leaving this as is. The connections will break. The wire is the attention grabber.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

For a project like this, I use #28 wirewrap wire, very fine and easily hidden.  I also have several large spools of it, a lifetime supply.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Second Signal Tower*

Thinner wire. I wrestled with the idea and tried it. I went with number 26 enamel wire. 

I built another stand. This time I used a popsicle stick. I still used a wire to hold the face but only one hole went through the pole. The other went around. Then I used Xmas bulbs with recessed cones and flat tops. The plastic caps hold the bulbs tight too, no glue.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I'll say again that I really like the look of the exposed wires ... I think it adds an extra sense of realism (or perceived realism, perhaps)!

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Number Two*

Here I show the cuts to set the ladder in the base. Two in and one cross. hen I epoxy it in. Next I have the popsicle base and covered wires.










So here are the two for comparison. I almost like the larger wires.
The finial will come after I use up the ink on the next pen.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Number plates*

I used flash aluminum and dry transfer on silver acrylic paint. The I used the Mod Podge. They will dry clear.












Possibilities............. The cap from the pens I used, make good light hoods.
Here, they are shown with 3 m LEDs but could hold 5mm also.
I used a 7/64 drill and pressed them in.










They could be trimmed to match a signal hood too , like in the HO Scale Model.

I also found some water bottle capsthat work too.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Down for the Count*

With a snug fit, the number plates clip on. I had one "three" missing a piece and had to emergency paint. So here they both are, 2530 is the prototype. Dry transfer Helvitic.1/8th I think.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

And no two the same! Unique i.d.'s ... even Lionel can't do that!

Clever friction-fit metal number plate. Very nice work, T-Man.

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*More Inspiration The Eight Dwarf*



















See also the LED Lamp post.




Ta da


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