# Wall layout / reversing loop question



## Flash53 (Dec 19, 2009)

I'm thinking of constructing a wall layout that would be along 2 walls and is basically 2 reversing loops(?) with single line between, sketch attached. The loops would be insulated and have separate wiring.

The time period modelled is mid 1800's and I would be running HO 4-4-0 engine with cars about 35' long. This train has successfully managed to run on 15" radius curves in the past. I'd like to be able to simply let the train run as I work on the scenery and building construction.

My questions is: would I be able to just let the train run or will I need to throw switches each time the train enters/leaves the loop? 

Thanks,
Steve


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## Guest (Apr 8, 2016)

It depends, with DC you will need to throw switches for reverse loop wiring. If you go with DCC you can get 2 auto reversing units and they will do it automatically. The track switches will need to spring loaded or otherwise controlled.


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## Flash53 (Dec 19, 2009)

Thanks Country Joe - I should have mentioned that the setup is DCC. 

Can you buy spring loaded switches?

I'm trying to get away from my other option, 4'x9' table top



Steve


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Just curious, but it looks like you could just do a kind of "squashed oval" with the two long legs very close together. That would eliminate the reversing loops entirely, as well as the necessity to worry about turnout position. Two pairs of crossovers in the middle of that and you'd have a very nice little loop.

A real train could just run through the points set against it from the long leg (IOW, leave the turnout thrown to the diverging leg at all times. You usually get a short when you try to do that on a model layout. Several models of turnout do have a spring for positive contact (Peco Streamline, for one).


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## Guest (Apr 8, 2016)

Steve, I'm not that familiar with HO switches so I don't know if they are available. CTValley makes a good suggestion. A dogbone plan would eliminate both the switches and reverse loops but would look like double track. I know that Kato's #4 N scale switches are spring loaded so they can be used as per your plan but I'm not familiar with their HO track.


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

Another suggestion. Instead of making a double track connecting the two loops, you could separate the two tracks.

One could run near the wall -- perhaps in rural scenery (mountains, tunnel, forest?

The other track could run near to the edge -- perhaps through towns or farmland.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

You could use some kind of train detection that
could throw the turnout points as needed. Each
end would need 2 detectors. The detector could
operate the turnout motor. These and DCC
reverse loop controllers would permit totally
automatic continuous running of your train on
that dogbone plan.

Here is one type that is available.

http://www.azatrax.com/

You would want to ensure that the device will
work with the type of turnout motor you use,
twin coil, or slo motion Tortoise stall motor.
If Tortoise, the detectors would need be forward
of the turnout sufficiently to allow the points
to complete their travel.

Both types of motors will have a sound.
The twin coils will SNAP. The Tortoise will
Whirrr when moving the points.


Don


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## Flash53 (Dec 19, 2009)

Thanks to all for your suggestions & ideas.

I'm glad to see that my sketch is workable using some automated switching options. My skill and knowledge of electronics is limited but think I understand the concept & wiring shown on the link.

I had pretty much dismissed using an oval of any type on the layout, my mistake. Using track front & back may help in some of the scenes I hope to create (logging, ranching & mining).

Steve


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## The New Guy (Mar 11, 2012)

Flash53 said:


> ...the scenes I hope to create (logging, ranching & mining)


Those should present some interesting terrain options. Sounds nice.

Looking forward to what you come up with.


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## dave1905 (Jul 7, 2013)

*Might not work*

Not because of the reversing loops.

The ends look like they are 3 ft square. That means you have 15" radius. Not real good with a steamer with a pilot truck. 18 would be a bare minimum and I would go with 22 if you could.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

dave1905 said:


> Not because of the reversing loops.
> 
> The ends look like they are 3 ft square. That means you have 15" radius. Not real good with a steamer with a pilot truck. 18 would be a bare minimum and I would go with 22 if you could.


Well, yes, except that the OP said in the original post that the loco and cars he wanted to run were OK with 15" curves.


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