# Newbie question about small/temporary ho train/car layout, & EZ-Track



## obcbeatle (Aug 18, 2020)

New to HO layouts & EZ-Track. I've been running my Bachmann train & Aurora Thunderjet cars since the early 70's. Both on original track. I'd like to create a small layout on a board that sits on top of a 48x42" table. The table is not big enough for train & car track layout. So the board would be bigger than the table. Also, I've never tacked/nailed track to any surface. Was wondering if there is a way to tack the track temporarily to the board, so I can dis-assemble fairly easy if I have to move? And, I've never used EZ-Track but see that it might make a difference as far as a more secure way to run trains on a track. I assume there is no way to use my original track in EZ-Track type plastic holders? I'm sure Bachmann wants to sell me more track  So basically, I'm thinking about taking that big step into creating a train/car layout on a proper surface (large sturdy board, not the floor or a table), with a few building structures, etc. I've been wanting to do this for years, but my carpentry skills are weak at best  Anyway, if anyone has any suggestions/comments I'd appreciate some feedback. Thank you.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

I would recommend a thin sheen of Alex Plus with Silicone, made by DAP. Get the clear stuff as it stays rubbery better than the coloured versions, and even though it looks like white cream when you first express it from the tube, it will dry clear, if slightly yellow. When you want to lift your tracks, simply slide an old butcher knife under the plastic ballast and saw to free the ballast.

One other potential problem, if you wouldn't mind me saying so. The table will have a certain footprint based on its size, and the stance between its various legs will be suitable for that table. That same limited stance will not support a much larger plywood surface as well. In fact, the leverage of a hand or leaning gut reaching for something is very likely to tip it over. If I were doing this, I would fashion some fold-down legs or other supporting outriggers to provide the wider stance you'll need.


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## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

I recommend sticking with standard style track. Extruded insulation foam would be a good surface that you can offer caulk to attach the track to as described above. 

A foam resurface is also light enough to move especially if you build in sections. However,if you're thinking about a layout that big moving it is tough and it's best to consider it as relatively permanent.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Generally, I would say that unless you know for sure that you'll be moving in the near future, don't worry about making it easy to dismantle. It's actually not that hard to cut up a layout into sections for a move, then reassemble the sections and repair the joints.

EZ track is, well, easy to use, but it has a very limited geometry. I'd recommend using flex track on a series of extruded foam panels. Since these come in 2'x8' panels, it's actually very easy to design a series of 2x8 modules which can be bolted together. 

If your carpentry skills aren't strong (although setting up benchwork is very basic stuff), and your budget will support it, you can buy prefabricated benchwork from places like Mianne and Sievers.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

obcbeatle said:


> New to HO layouts & EZ-Track. I've been running my Bachmann train & Aurora Thunderjet cars since the early 70's. Both on original track. I'd like to create a small layout on a board that sits on top of a 48x42" table. The table is not big enough for train & car track layout. So the board would be bigger than the table. Also, I've never tacked/nailed track to any surface. Was wondering if there is a way to tack the track temporarily to the board, so I can dis-assemble fairly easy if I have to move? And, I've never used EZ-Track but see that it might make a difference as far as a more secure way to run trains on a track. I assume there is no way to use my original track in EZ-Track type plastic holders? I'm sure Bachmann wants to sell me more track  So basically, I'm thinking about taking that big step into creating a train/car layout on a proper surface (large sturdy board, not the floor or a table), with a few building structures, etc. I've been wanting to do this for years, but my carpentry skills are weak at best  Anyway, if anyone has any suggestions/comments I'd appreciate some feedback. Thank you.


obcbeatttle;

Bachmann EZ-Track has one serious drawback. The EZ-Track "turnouts" (track Switches) are the worst on the market. If you like "roadbed track", that has a locking plastic "roadbed piece under each track section, then I'd recommend Kato Unitrack. The Kato turnouts are decent, unlike the Bachmann turnouts, and Kato Unitrack also has more track shape choices. On the other hand, if you're ready to move on to a layout with regular, non-roadbed flex track, glued down on top of cork or foam roadbed, then I suggest reading the attached files. I recommend making your layout sectional, both to make it easier to move, if that becomes necessary, and to save your back from working under the layout. You can take a section and turn it upside down to work on wiring or mounting switch machines.

Good Luck & Have Fun;

Traction Fan 🙂


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## obcbeatle (Aug 18, 2020)

First off, thanks for all the replies. I clearly have some more research to do  Thanks for the files for reading! After reading what some of you have said, I think I will check out prefabricated benchwork. At this point I mostly want to get train & car track fastened properly to a surface, and then maybe later one day add building structures etc. And currently having space constraints w/ a possible move in a year or two is what made me think about a board to lay on a table for disassembly later when moving. But I now see that probably isn't ideal. I'll check out flex track too. When I first saw that I thought that was some fly-by-night concept for configuring layouts. But if it's the real deal it bears checking out. I'm obviously old school. My previous layouts were vintage track on a big old door, fixed into a table by my Dad years ago, & then a ping pong table  After watching some model railroad layout videos this week on Youtube I currently a bit overwhelmed by what all is involved in making a layout. But I guess I can start small and take my time! Thanks gain for suggestions!


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

obcbeatle said:


> First off, thanks for all the replies. I clearly have some more research to do  Thanks for the files for reading! After reading what some of you have said, I think I will check out prefabricated benchwork. At this point I mostly want to get train & car track fastened properly to a surface, and then maybe later one day add building structures etc. And currently having space constraints w/ a possible move in a year or two is what made me think about a board to lay on a table for disassembly later when moving. But I now see that probably isn't ideal. I'll check out flex track too. When I first saw that I thought that was some fly-by-night concept for configuring layouts. But if it's the real deal it bears checking out. I'm obviously old school. My previous layouts were vintage track on a big old door, fixed into a table by my Dad years ago, & then a ping pong table  After watching some model railroad layout videos this week on Youtube I currently a bit overwhelmed by what all is involved in making a layout. But I guess I can start small and take my time! Thanks gain for suggestions!


obcbeatle;

You're welcome.
It sounds like you have the right idea, start out small, and simple, then add on as you wish after you have learned by doing a bit. This is another advantage of sectional construction by the way. You can design the whole layout on paper or a computer, or find a track plan online, and then buy only what you need to build one section (I recommend making your sections 2' x 4')
That way you can ease your way into the hobby, and if things don't work out on the first try, you won't have a lot of money, or time, invested, and you can try again if you like.

There are also good books available to help you. One that I recommend is "Getting Started in Model Railroading" by Jeff Wilson. It covers a variety of model railroad topics in simple text, and many photos. You can order a copy from Kalmbach Hobby Store or from www.amazon.com 

As for the files I sent you, you don't have to plow through every word of every file right away. (Or ever, for that matter. 😄)
I suggest starting with just the one file titled "Where do I start." It sort of eases your way into things by presenting various options and the advantages & disadvantages of each. I wrote it for people who are brand new, and building their first model railroad.

Good Luck & Have Fun!

Traction Fan


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## obcbeatle (Aug 18, 2020)

Thanks for the kind words, encouragement & assistance Traction Fan!


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## x_doug_x (Jun 21, 2010)

LoL, you're wanting to do what i've done with both o scale and ho. I'll work on both some more later to get them more detailed.


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## obcbeatle (Aug 18, 2020)

Nice! I notice you've got your model cars in the middle like I currently do. I have the original rr crossing track for my cars/train but my table surface right now is only 4x4, barely enough room for the train circle  I need to work out w/ my wife a place to put a bigger table surface for my model. I'm too old now to play w/ these things on the floor  That is my biggest challenge at the moment. Do you know if flex track will stay flexed if it's not glued or nailed to a surface? In case I can't glue or nail anything for awhile. I'm trying to decide between the Kato Unitrack or FlexTrack.Thanks for sharing!


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## obcbeatle (Aug 18, 2020)

Until I decide how big a table surface to buy, I want to get a bit more track to allow for more configuration options. Since I'm working with a very small space at the moment, I'd like to know the best way to make tight/close turns so that I can keep the train on a short circular route to enable me to add a HO car track layout with my RR crossing. I'm working on a 4x3 table surface at the moment (very small!). Not sure if I can even work this out on such a small surface. It seems in general I will need some smaller pieces of train track just to make a smaller circle. I currently only have 18" section track a few 15" track. All of this is original section track from the early 1970's. So for instance, is the best way to make a quick turn to go back the other direction, to use smaller pieces of track? The 18" track I have is to sweeping a curve to even stay on the table! Just thought I'd ask  Thanks.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

obcbeatle said:


> Nice! I notice you've got your model cars in the middle like I currently do. I have the original rr crossing track for my cars/train but my table surface right now is only 4x4, barely enough room for the train circle  I need to work out w/ my wife a place to put a bigger table surface for my model. I'm too old now to play w/ these things on the floor  That is my biggest challenge at the moment. Do you know if flex track will stay flexed if it's not glued or nailed to a surface? In case I can't glue or nail anything for awhile. I'm trying to decide between the Kato Unitrack or FlexTrack.Thanks for sharing!


obcbeatle;

No, flex track won't stay in a set curve without being glued down a bit. Micro Engineering brand flex track holds its shape better than other brands. It's quite stiff, and can be a bit hard to form into a smooth curve. At the other end of the flexibility scale, Atlas brand flex track is super flexible, but snaps back to straight the second you let go of it. I suggest going with the Kato Unitrack. It's designed to let you build a layout without nailing, or gluing, the track down. Kato also sells a wide variety of shapes, including some tight curves.
I hear you about not going on the floor! I'm 72, and partly disabled so no floor crawling for me.
In your negotiations with your wife regarding more space for a layout, sometimes a narrow shelf along the walls, leaves more space for other activities in the middle of the room. The file attached below explains this idea in detail. 

Good Luck & Have Fun;

Traction Fan 🙂


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Problem is that if you're modeling in HO scale, 18" curves are already fairly limiting in what you can run on them, and 15" even more so. You've already ruled out 6 axle diesels, steamers with more than 6 drivers, and any rolling stock longer than about 50 scale feet.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

obcbeatle said:


> New to HO layouts & EZ-Track. I've been running my Bachmann train & Aurora Thunderjet cars since the early 70's. Both on original track. I'd like to create a small layout on a board that sits on top of a 48x42" table. The table is not big enough for train & car track layout. So the board would be bigger than the table. Also, I've never tacked/nailed track to any surface. Was wondering if there is a way to tack the track temporarily to the board, so I can dis-assemble fairly easy if I have to move? And, I've never used EZ-Track but see that it might make a difference as far as a more secure way to run trains on a track. I assume there is no way to use my original track in EZ-Track type plastic holders? I'm sure Bachmann wants to sell me more track  So basically, I'm thinking about taking that big step into creating a train/car layout on a proper surface (large sturdy board, not the floor or a table), with a few building structures, etc. I've been wanting to do this for years, but my carpentry skills are weak at best  Anyway, if anyone has any suggestions/comments I'd appreciate some feedback. Thank you.


obcbeatle;

Given your very small available space, and the fact that you're going to buy track anyway, have you considered N-scale? It can turn around in half the space of HO-scale. An 18" radius curve is pretty tight for HO-scale but generous for N-scale. Even the super tight (for HO) 15" radius curves are fine for most N-scale equipment.
True, if you switched scales, you would need to buy new (N-scale) trains. Rather than running your old, 1970s HO trains, but that may not be a bad thing at all.
Today's model trains, in any scale, are made better, run better, and look better than 1970s trains.
HO is a good scale, so is N, and so are all the others. However HO-scale trains need a 4' wide table to turn around on a 180 degree curve, and even 4' is crowding things a bit for the 22" radius curves that some HO-scale locomotives and cars require.
N-scale can turn around on a 3' or even 2' wide table using 16" radius curves on the 3' and 11" & 9-3/4" curves on the 2' wide table. Kato makes their Unitrack in N-scale as well as HO-scale, so you can still use Kato track if you do decide to switch. You will hear some comments about N-scale being too small. Well, I'm 72 years old and I have been modeling in N-scale for decades without problem. The attached file explains these two scale choices, and some of the facts, and myths about them.

Have fun with whatever you choose;

Traction Fan 🙂


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## obcbeatle (Aug 18, 2020)

Thanks for the replies and info! I'll keep in mind the loco & rolling stock restrictions re: diameter... I have a early 1970's Bachmann train set that is in really good condition & is very nostalgic, to me. So for now I'd like to continue to run HO with my Aurora HO track. That is what is causing such a pickle with this small table (running the cars & train). I really just need to get a bigger surface to be able to run the cars and trains together, due to the restrictions you all highlight among other things. Thank you for sharing that info! I believe I will get a little bit more sectional track just to have more options in the short term, and eventually buy the Kato Unitrack once I have a ore permanent surface. As aside, re: better trains these days, compared to vintage, does that also hold true for structures like Plasticville? The reason I ask is I was going through my old Bachmann catalog and saw some Plasticville structure & rolling stock I wanted to add to my model. But if there is better looking structures & rolling stock, I'd be interested in checking them out and comparing to my vintage models, which I thought looked pretty authentic (particularly the rolling stock). I have the early Sante Fe EMD F9 loco w/ a few cars that I believe came in the same set. Anyway, thanks again for all your input!


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Bachmann and Plasticville products from the '70's were toy store quality stuff, mass produced for mass marketing without a lot of attention to detail. Theses days, there is craftsman stuff available that will put your vintage stuff to shame -- for a price, of course. Higher end models duplicate details specific to each railroad rather than a generic "close enough" model with different paint schemes. Higher end stuff today also has a lot more "separately applied" detail items, which almost always look more realistic than molded-on detail.

Browse around the William K Walthers website (www.walthers.com) for a while. They are the largest wholesaler of model railroad stuff in North America, and while they're far from carrying everything available, it will give you a good flavor for what's out there.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

obcbeatle said:


> Thanks for the replies and info! I'll keep in mind the loco & rolling stock restrictions re: diameter... I have a early 1970's Bachmann train set that is in really good condition & is very nostalgic, to me. So for now I'd like to continue to run HO with my Aurora HO track. That is what is causing such a pickle with this small table (running the cars & train). I really just need to get a bigger surface to be able to run the cars and trains together, due to the restrictions you all highlight among other things. Thank you for sharing that info! I believe I will get a little bit more sectional track just to have more options in the short term, and eventually buy the Kato Unitrack once I have a ore permanent surface. As aside, re: better trains these days, compared to vintage, does that also hold true for structures like Plasticville? The reason I ask is I was going through my old Bachmann catalog and saw some Plasticville structure & rolling stock I wanted to add to my model. But if there is better looking structures & rolling stock, I'd be interested in checking them out and comparing to my vintage models, which I thought looked pretty authentic (particularly the rolling stock). I have the early Sante Fe EMD F9 loco w/ a few cars that I believe came in the same set. Anyway, thanks again for all your input!


obcbeatle;

I understand. You like what you have, and want to keep it. As CTValley says the realism of model trains, and structures, has improved dramatically since the 1970s. If you want to see what's possible using today's craftsman kits, google the Franklin & South Manchester model railroad. This spectacular HO-scale model railroad is being built by George Sellios who owns Fine Scale Miniatures, a manufacturer of high quality and high price kits. Most of the beautiful structures and the amazing details everywhere use George's kits, parts, and enormous talent. If you like, you can improve your Plasticville structures with some good, flat model paint and perhaps some extra detail parts, or you can just leave them as is. It's your railroad, so you choose.

Good Luck & Have Fun;

Tractionn Fan 🙂


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## obcbeatle (Aug 18, 2020)

Wow, duly impressed by that F&S layout and the newer model details. After looking at some more Youtube videos I'm pretty impressed & overwhelmed by a lot of layouts I'm seeing  I definitely have a lot of thinking and planning to do before getting a table, etc. So if I get a 4x8 prefabricated bench from Mianne, in the short term, can I just lay out my vintage Bachmann sectional track & Aurora HO car track till I'm ready to buy foam or cork bed? Also, Does anyone specialize in prefab model structures like mountains and lakes that just lay on a surface? I'm just trying to think through options for creating a temporary layout until I know I'm in a more permanent situation for living space, etc. I'm obviously looking at options for being able to tear down, pack and move things with the least amount of headache. I wish I were in a situation where I knew I wouldn't be moving, plus had a lot of space! Just thinking out loud here  Thanks again for all you feedback!


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## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

Your vintage sectional track will probably need to be somehow down for reliable running. However, properly applied track nails are not that hard to remove. You could also use just spots of caulk here and there to keep the track in place. Your old track is probably brass or steel anyway so when you do make a more permanent layout you'll want to buy new track anyway.

You need not ever apply foam or cork. Cork just makes it more realistic in raising the track up a bit and dampens any track rattles. 

How big is the table you currently have? Purchasing pre-fab benchwork might be getting ahead of yourself, especially if you might be moving. Is there a table you can put a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood or foam over now? Another option for affordable temporary (or permanent) benchwork -especially if you need a good amount of room for a raceway would be a used Ping-Pong table. Here's how I did it: 








Budget Railroading. 4'x8' Plywood or Maybe a Ping Pong Table?


When it comes to choosing a size table for your layout, experienced modelers will often tell you not use a "table" at all, but to use a narr...




chicagovalleyrailroad.blogspot.com




Ping Pong tables are 5x9 which doesn't sound much bigger than 4x8, but actually allows a considerably larger layout. Also, you can simply place a layer of foam or plywood on top which can later be removed and you can sell off the ping-pong table or use it as a ping pong table.

As for pre-fab terrain. There's alot of pre-built buildings available at your local hobbyshop. If trains shows were open you'd be able to go and find tons of pre-built kits that folks have built and no longer need, often for great deals. Check craigslist, ask around here, and check or put or a wanted ad on the HOSwap group on groups.io . There are some foam pre-fab mountains, but not many. Carving a mountain from foam might be a fun project for you and not too expensive. As for rivers, there are a fair number of pre-fab rivers, but I think they are mostly sectional systems made for wargaming.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

obcbeatle said:


> Wow, duly impressed by that F&S layout and the newer model details. After looking at some more Youtube videos I'm pretty impressed & overwhelmed by a lot of layouts I'm seeing  I definitely have a lot of thinking and planning to do before getting a table, etc. So if I get a 4x8 prefabricated bench from Mianne, in the short term, can I just lay out my vintage Bachmann sectional track & Aurora HO car track till I'm ready to buy foam or cork bed? Also, Does anyone specialize in prefab model structures like mountains and lakes that just lay on a surface? I'm just trying to think through options for creating a temporary layout until I know I'm in a more permanent situation for living space, etc. I'm obviously looking at options for being able to tear down, pack and move things with the least amount of headache. I wish I were in a situation where I knew I wouldn't be moving, plus had a lot of space! Just thinking out loud here  Thanks again for all you feedback!


obcbeatle;

The Franklin & South Manchester, and John Allen's Gorre & Daphetid are masterpieces by true artists of model railroading. Great inspirations, but way beyond the abilities of most modelers. Yet we can still try to build the best models that we're able too.

Yes, you could buy a 4' x 8' benchwork kit from Mianne if you want. However, that's an expensive way to buy a somewhat unnecessary, item. One that you may not incorporate into a more permanent, future, layout.
A simple 4' x 8' sheet of 1/2"- 3/4" thick plywood, or better yet, a 4' x 8' sheet of 2" thick of extruded foam insulation board, will do the same thing, for less money.
You can very easily build your own frame from 1" x 3" lumber, or simply set your plywood, or foam, board on a set of folding sawhorses for your temporary layout. If you choose the sawhorse option, I would suggest making a pair of 1" x 3" 'L'-girders, (see photo #1) and screwing them to the sawhorses. They will support the top sheet and keep the plywood from sagging. They will also form the sawhorses into a unified frame that won't tip over if you accidentally bump into it. In effect, you're building a train table without 95% of the carpentry.
On that top sheet you can set up your sectional track, and model motoring car track and have fun with them.

If you later have to move, the foam will be bulky, but very light, to carry. The plywood, especially the 3/4" thick type, will be both bulky, and HEAVY!
The screws can be removed, the 'L'-girders saved for future use, the sawhorses folded up, and everything moved with you.

I don't know of any removable lakes, or mountains, other than those very hoaky-looking lift off "tunnels." You can check www.walthers.com to see what's available. Mountains, and lakes, are quite easy to make, and your results will likely look more realistic than a "Lionel-style" tunnel. Like everything else on your layout, that's your choice, as it should be. The other photos show a few items on my layout. Not even in the same universe, let alone in the same league, as the F&SM, or the G&D, but they'll do for me at present.

Good Luck & Have Fun;

Traction Fan 🙂


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## obcbeatle (Aug 18, 2020)

Thanks for the replies. My table is approx. 4x4, so very little room. I will think about maybe a piece of plywood or foam although if it's too big it might teeter at the ends a bit on such a small table. Last night I set up my train & HO cars on our 6x4 dining room table & even that isn't wide enough for a layout of 2 RR crossings cars/train. I'd forgotten how much space is required to layout the train & cars  Thanks for the ping/pong table suggestion. I may go that route since I've done that before years ago. I've come to the conclusion that model RR'ing is all about space, which I currently have very little. I'm also looking into layouts that are more narrow for just my train, as some here have suggested. Thanks again for all the links, files, pics & suggestions. Very helpful! 

PS: Forgot to ask, can anyone suggest an inexpensive curved turnout (manual) to use on my old Bachmann section track? Just want to see how these work. Thank you.


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## obcbeatle (Aug 18, 2020)

Traction Fan, forgot to tell you that I like your layout pics. Seeing others models is very helpful!


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

PS: Forgot to ask, can anyone suggest an inexpensive curved turnout (manual) to use on my old Bachmann section track? Just want to see how these work. Thank you.
[/QUOTE]

obcbeatle;

Is your Bachmann sectional track their "EZ-Track" with the plastic roadbed piece attached to the bottom of the track pieces? If so, bad news, I'm afraid. The only turnout I know of that is made to connect to EZ-Track is Bachmann's own EZ-Track turnout. It is the absolute worst commercial turnout on the market, not all that inexpensive, and I don't know that they even make a curved version.

I'm not even sure if by "curved turnout" you mean a turnout with two curved routes. (That's the correct definition of the term.)
However, there are also some turnouts which have one curved route, and one straight route. The Atlas "Snap Switch" turnout is a common example of this configuration. Long ago, Bachmann made a similar turnout with one curved & one straight route. It did not have the plastic "roadbed" piece attached under it. Since you have old track, maybe that's the kind of turnout you're looking for?

Actual curved turnouts are available from Peco. While they would require some adapting to connect to EZ-Track, their quality is excellent, and they come as manual turnouts, to which you can add a switch machine later, if you want. These high quality turnouts will not be inexpensive either, but unlike the Bachmann EZ-track turnouts, the Peco's are very well made, rugged, and super-reliable.

Good Luck & Have Fun;

Traction Fan 🙂


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## obcbeatle (Aug 18, 2020)

My track is the old sectional track that came in a Bachmann set in the early 70's I think. It's not EZ track. I want a simple curved turnout curved piece of track since I currently have few straight pieces in my layout to add a turnout, due to space restrictions. A manual turnout is OK. I just want to have a turnout where rolling stock or loco's can be off the running track. Thanks!


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## obcbeatle (Aug 18, 2020)

obcbeatle said:


> My track is the old sectional track that came in a Bachmann set in the early 70's I think. It's not EZ track. I want a simple curved turnout curved piece of track since I currently have few straight pieces in my layout to add a turnout, due to space restrictions. A manual turnout is OK. I just want to have a turnout where rolling stock or loco's can be off the running track. Thanks!


Sorry, I'm still learning the terminology plus I've never had/used a turnout or switch. I currently have a very simple oval train track layout of all curved track except one straight track pieces for the power pack and another straight piece serving as a rerailer (its an Aurora train/car crossing piece that works great as a rerailer). So I'd like to replace one of the curved pieces in the layout with a turnout so that I can make a short separate track to park train cars. I'm not even sure how these turnout work as it seems like they open the electrical circuit which would stop locomotives from running, which would be ok as I'm just wanting the turnout as much for aesthetic than functionality. Hope that made sense  Thanks for the help!


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Unfortunately, better quality turnouts don't form part of a circle, they have two straight legs. You can buy turnouts that do have a section of 18" radius curve in them; you need both the turnout and a shorter piece of the curved track. Atlas Snap Switches come with the shorter curve segment, but they're prone to issues (Traction Fan can give you his document on improving Atlas turnouts).

Some turnouts are power routing; that is, only rails in the direction the points (the moveable section of rails) are facing are energized. This actually allows you to park a loco on de-energized track. Most turnouts, however, have a bus bar that powers both legs of the turnout simultaneously


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

obcbeatle said:


> My track is the old sectional track that came in a Bachmann set in the early 70's I think. It's not EZ track. I want a simple curved turnout curved piece of track since I currently have few straight pieces in my layout to add a turnout, due to space restrictions. A manual turnout is OK. I just want to have a turnout where rolling stock or loco's can be off the running track. Thanks!


obcbeatle;

EZ-Track has a rigid gray, or black, plastic roadbed piece attached to the bottom of each section of track. If your old Bachmann track has nothing attached to the bottom of the ties, then you're right, it's not EZ-Track.
The Atlas "Snap Switch" turnout sounds like the best bet for what you want to do. As CTValley said, it has an 18" radius curve built into one of it's routes. The other route is a 9' long piece of straight track. That straight route could be the entrance to your "siding", where you could park some cars. The curve would be the "mainline." I don't know if Bachmann still makes conventional sectional track anymore. There should be no problem connecting the Atlas turnout into your Bachmann oval of track, as long as the Bachmann curved sections are 18" radius. If they are not, then the track may not line up correctly. Installing a short piece of flex track might be necessary in that case. Another, and easier option would be to buy an oval of Atlas "Snap Track", including one 9" straight section with terminal screws, several 9" plain (no terminals) straight sections, and twelve 18" radius curved sections. That way, the Atlas Snap Switch will fit. Some of the straight sections can be used to build your siding.

Atlas "Snap Switch" turnouts (and their old Bachmann clones) have derailment problems. If you should experience derailments, the file below (starting on page 8) outlines how to drastically reduce the number of derailments.

Good Luck & Have Fun;

Traction Fan 🙂


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## obcbeatle (Aug 18, 2020)

Thank you for the info. So is this the correct atlas snap switch?:

Code 100 Manual Snap Switch Right

Or is it this one?:

596 Atlas / Curved Turnout Right Hand- Customline(R) Mark IV - Inside Radius 22", Outside 30" Code 83 (Scale=HO) #150-596

The first says snap switch but both tracks are not curved. The other, both tracks are curved but it doesn't say snap switch. Also, the snap switch you recommended is manual, correct? I don't have an electric switch and was hoping I wouldn't need one for now. Sorry for my confusion. 

Lastly, I was going through an old 1972 Bachmann catalog trying to find a few more rolling stock cars to add to my current Santa Fe loco & rolling stock that came with that set I got back in the early 70's. I'd like to stick to Santa Fe versions of rolling stock because I'm thinking of eventually building a 1940's/1950's era Santa Fe RR model once I get a proper surface and buy some Kato Unitrack (that probably won't happen for at least a year). So in the meantime I thought I would add a few cars, and get the turnout you recommend. Anyway, I quickly realized that some of the rolling stock that came with my original set back in the 70's, doesn't say Santa Fe on the side of the car. Which then lead me to wonder, do railroads just borrow rolling stock from anywhere based on their freight needs? That is, a Santa Fe RR train might use rolling stock from Penn. Central RR, Pacific Southern RR, etc (in real life)? The old Bachmann catalog seems to indicate that as you could purchase say a 41’ High-Cube Box Car Smooth Sides #1206 as also a Union Pacific, Burlington, etc. Just curious. I also noticed that many of the Bachmann rolling stock #'s are still the same as the old 1970's #'s, but the the more recent cars (like from the 1980's on) don't seem to have the level of detail as my older cars. I'm guessing it is pretty hard to find vintage Bachmann rolling stock from the 1970's?And I know some of you have recommended looking at buying newer made rolling stock since the level of detail is better than some of the vintage. If you have any specific recommendations, I'd take a look  Thanks again for all your help!


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

obcbeatle said:


> Thank you for the info. So is this the correct atlas snap switch?:
> 
> Code 100 Manual Snap Switch Right
> 
> ...


obcbeatle;

No need to apologize for being confused. This hobby is very confusing, especially when you're new.
The first turnout you show, the Atlas manual Snap Switch, is the type I suggested for adding a siding to your present oval of Bachmann track.
The reason the other turnout, the one with two curved routes, doesn't say "Snap Switch" is that it does say "Custom Line." (Just another thing to add confusion! 😄)
Atlas actually markets two separate lines of HO-scale turnouts. The Custom Line turnouts are their better quality turnouts. The Snap Switch turnouts are their "bargain brand" turnouts. For your present need, the Snap Switch will fit the bill, and physically fit into your oval of track, better. The 18" radius curve in it is more likely to match your Bachmann track curves than the 22" min. radius curve in the curved Custom Line turnout in your second link. There is also another difference, the height of the rails.
The rail height (expressed as a code) is "code 100" for the first, snap switch, turnout, and code 83 for the second, custom line, curved turnout. This rail "code number you will see in ads is simply the height of the rails in 1000ths of an inch. So "Code 100" rail is 100/1000ths" high and "Code 83" rail is 83/1000ths" high. (confused yet?😄)
The old Bachmann track you have now is probably code 100. The code 83 rail probably wasn't in use when your Bachmann train set was made. While it is quite possible to mate two different codes of rail, I don't want to add any more confusion or/ physical difficulty to your transition from O-gauge, to HO-scale, than I have to.

As for the different railroad names on cars in the same train, that is because of something called "car forwarding" used by full-size, real railroads. As an example, someone shipping their product by rail from New York to Los Angeles, could not ship it all the way on one railroad company's track. There is no truly transcontinental railroad company.
Instead, that shipment might start out on the New York Central Railroad as far as Chicago, and then be taken on from Chicago to L.A. on the Santa Fe, or the Southern Pacific. They didn't unload the freight from the first, New York Central, boxcar and re-pack it into a Santa Fe boxcar. Instead the whole boxcar would be added to a Santa Fe westbound freight train headed out to L.A.

In fact, the first boxcar might well not have had "New York Central" painted on the sides. It might have been from the Western Pacific, the Great Northern, or even the Santa Fe.
Cars forwarded from one railroad to another had to be returned. They were only borrowed, not sold. The quicker these cars were returned to the "home rails" of the railroad that owned the car the better too. The "borrowing" railroad company had to pay "per diem" charges to the railroad that owned the car for every day they kept it.
So, a smart dispatcher was going to send freight going west in cars from western railroads as much as he could. Confusing as that all sounds, it's actually a gross simplification of what happened in real life. (Oh yippy skippy more confusion! 😄)
The end result of this car forwarding business was that a Santa Fe freight would typically have most of its cars marked Santa Fe, but could also include some cars from many different railroads. You may want to avoid having cars marked "Conrail " or "Norfolk Southern, or even "Burlington Northern Santa Fe" in your 1940s - 1950s train, since those merger railroad companies didn't exist back then, but otherwise pretty much any railroad company's car could have been there.

Newer production freight cars? Well you can pretty well take your pick. Nearly any car produced recently will be better detailed, and probably more free-rolling than your old cars. They will also come with knuckle couplers, not the horn-hooks that your 1970s cars likely have. This may mean you will have to equip one or two cars with a knuckle coupler at one end, and retain the horn-hook coupler at the other end. this will let you couple all your cars together.

Regards;

Traction Fan 😊


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## obcbeatle (Aug 18, 2020)

Great! Thank you Traction Fan. I appreciate all this information, & your help. Sounds like for rolling stock I can look for Santa Fe on the sides, but not worry too much if it doesn't say Santa Fe, however I should look for rolling stock RR cars that were available during the 40's/50, to keep my train period authentic. I really need to research all the railroads more. I just found out that Ashland, Oregon, where I now live, has some interesting railroad history. Nearby Medford, OR as well. So I have some more reading to do! Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

obcbeatle said:


> Great! Thank you Traction Fan. I appreciate all this information, & your help. Sounds like for rolling stock I can look for Santa Fe on the sides, but not worry too much if it doesn't say Santa Fe, however I should look for rolling stock RR cars that were available during the 40's/50, to keep my train period authentic. I really need to research all the railroads more. I just found out that Ashland, Oregon, where I now live, has some interesting railroad history. Nearby Medford, OR as well. So I have some more reading to do! Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!


obcbeatle;

There is a lot of information about real freight car history online.
Some examples of cars you might want to pass up are articulated well cars for hauling double stacks of containers, giant 80' freight cars in general, fully covered auto rack cars, cylindrical grain hoppers & covered hoppers in general, and any other obviously too-modern cars.

The most common type of freight car used in your chosen era was the 40' boxcar. Another common car was the two-bay open hopper car used to haul coal. Of course every train had a caboose back then too. Small 30-40 foot tank cars for hauling oil & other liquid cargo were also common then. In fact, during world war two there were frequent, long, trains composed entirely of tank cars. They were used to transport petroleum products from the refineries to eastern ports for shipment to England.
Prior to the North Sea oil discovery, (many years after the war ended) England had zero domestic oil production. (It's why they hung onto steam so long, they did have coal.) Every drop of fuel for British ships, tanks, autos, trucks, & planes, had to be imported. At that time German U-boats lurked not only in the North Atlantic, but also just off the U.S. Eastern & Gulf coasts, and a lot of tanker ships were torpedoed. Many of today's pipelines didn't exist then, and so the safest way to ship oil was by train. American railroads shipped thousands of tons of it, and everything else needed for the war effort.

The locomotives of the 1940s would be nearly all steam. Diesels were a fairly new technology then and not very common. The Santa Fe got some of the early diesels since a lot of their track mileage was in the southwest, where the large amounts of water devoured by steam locomotives, were scarce.
Finally, only a few U.S. railroads were electrified. The Milwaukee, Pennsylvania, Virginian and New Haven, plus short segments of a few others.
By the 1950s though, the diesels started taking over, and steam was making its last stand by the late 50s.
Kalmbach Hobby Store also publishes books on modeling the 1950s that might help you.

Have Fun;

Traction Fan 😊


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

obcbeatle said:


> Great! Thank you Traction Fan. I appreciate all this information, & your help. Sounds like for rolling stock I can look for Santa Fe on the sides, but not worry too much if it doesn't say Santa Fe, however I should look for rolling stock RR cars that were available during the 40's/50, to keep my train period authentic. I really need to research all the railroads more. I just found out that Ashland, Oregon, where I now live, has some interesting railroad history. Nearby Medford, OR as well. So I have some more reading to do! Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!


The era of a car is somewhat important -- cars often stay in service for a lot of years, but they can't appear before they were made. So a type of car manufactured in the 50's could still be found on a '70's era layout, but not vice versa.

The name on the side is less important, because rolling stock can and does move all over the country. On the New Haven Railroad in the 1950's, about 25% was New Haven livery, 60% was either Pennsy, NYC or one of their related roads, and the other 15% came from wherever. Motive power, on the other hand, will be almost exclusively home road equipment.


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## obcbeatle (Aug 18, 2020)

Thanks for the info. on freight cars, etc. I just checked out the Kalmbach Hobby Store. Wow, what have I gotten myself into!? Quite an industry this model railroading  Seriously, I found some books/media you mentioned on modeling the 1950's. I may pick up one of those soon, as I make my way through this new hobby. Thank you.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I have that railroading in the '50's book. Definitely worth the price. You might see it you can find a gently used copy a little cheaper on eBay or Amazon.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

This is the Atlas Custom Line 30/22" curved turnout. They are great space savers when you need to get another track off of the main without having to wait for the track to straighten.


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## obcbeatle (Aug 18, 2020)

I will check Amazon/eBay for those books! Thanks for the photo of the curved turnout, and nice layout!


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## obcbeatle (Aug 18, 2020)

Just wanted to thank Traction Train & everyone that replied to this thread & offered their advice. I bought the Atlas Manual Snap Switch and it did the trick! Just wish I had more room on my 4x3 table for a bigger spur. I'm still trying to decide between a piece of plywood, a ping pong table or a nice prefab bench. It's mostly about working with my wife on room space alternatives  No hurries though. At least I've got my old Bachmann train & Aurora Thunderjets running again, so I'm happy 😊 Thanks again for everyones help, and for the info., which I'm still reading! Best!


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

So here's the thing: plywood (4x8), ping pong table (5x9), or benchwork. Notice there's no size after the latter. Because you can make (or buy) it in pretty much any configuration that fits your layout design, available space, and budget. It's a no-brainer, if you ask me. Decide how much space you can devote to your layout, design a layout for that space, and THEN build the necessary benchwork. Don't let the benchwork limit your creativity by settling on that first.


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## obcbeatle (Aug 18, 2020)

Good advice! So where can I find a set of layouts for cars and trains? Most of the layouts I've seen are primarily for trains or are very elaborate. I'm looking for simple train/car layout ideas. I've actually found a few in my old train & car catalogs. But they too are pretty elaborate.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

You can find dozens, if not more, of layout design ideas in our Layout Design Forum. You will see how various modellers have
created track work for continuous running, switching operations and a combination of both. The way to use these
drawings and pictures is to select and idea you like from member A, another from member E and perhaps
other ideas from various othyer members. Then you use your creativity to merge these ideas into a layout that
you would enjoy.

The space ;you have for the layout...the budget available for it...and what you think you would like
to do with your layout when you get it working...are all important factors in your layout design.

Don


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## obcbeatle (Aug 18, 2020)

Thanks Don, I forgot about all the other forums on this board, including the Layout Design Forum!


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

In my mind, the best layout for you is the one that you invent to suit your needs and the way you want to operate your trains. But if you really don't want to invest that effort, look, as Don suggested, at other threads in the forum, search the Web (Model Railroader magazine has an online database of thousands of them for their subscribers), or there are dozens of books available.

Or ask someone to design one for you. There are professionals who do it, and several folks who do it as a hobby.


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

I just looked at some of those track plans to get ideas and then designed what fit our needs. 

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk


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## Mark VerMurlen (Aug 15, 2015)

I literally spent 2 months searching for the track plan that I eventually built. I went through 3 books of plans and countless plans online. I finally found the plan I liked and would sort of fit my room in a Model Railroader magazine article (Peace River Railroad). I had to modify the original plan just slightly to make it smaller by changing some turnouts to curved turnouts. I tried designing my own plan as well, but creating a good plan is more difficult than you might think. If you've got a lot of room, I think the idea of taking portions of various plans and putting them together with simple connections is the way I would go. With smaller spaces, this really isn't possible and a good professional designer with experience can create some amazing plans in small spaces.


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## obcbeatle (Aug 18, 2020)

Thank you for the insight. I am a planner at heart for most things. And I enjoy research. So I will take my time thinking about a layout while checking out some of these resources you mention. Thank you again.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Mark VerMurlen said:


> I literally spent 2 months searching for the track plan that I eventually built. I went through 3 books of plans and countless plans online. I finally found the plan I liked and would sort of fit my room in a Model Railroader magazine article (Peace River Railroad). I had to modify the original plan just slightly to make it smaller by changing some turnouts to curved turnouts. I tried designing my own plan as well, but creating a good plan is more difficult than you might think. If you've got a lot of room, I think the idea of taking portions of various plans and putting them together with simple connections is the way I would go. With smaller spaces, this really isn't possible and a good professional designer with experience can create some amazing plans in small spaces.


This reminds me of a layout I helped someone with. It was the Inyo and White River from Model Railroader magazine, but he wanted to do N vice HO and shorten the railroad by two feet in the long dimension. That was a real challenge getting all the track to work in the shortened space, and one crossing we never could find a prefab track piece that fit. He ended up taking an Atlas 15 degree crossing and shortening two of the legs. But we got it done! The resulting track plan is in the "Collection of Track Plans" thraad.


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