# Manual switching



## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

Just curious if anyone manually switches their turn outs? I have 9 right now and only a few work properly. At first I just told myself I would change them later but some will be hard to do later and I don't have the cash now to buy new. I am sure some or most could be fixed. 
Basically just curious if anyone operates In a manual switching? Manual coupling and uncoupling? I have never been to a Train show or have I seen and "real Operations" take place. I am starting to get a little bit of an idea but for now I just watch it run.
Any Southern California guys want to give me a lesson on their layout? I would like to learn how to "Operate a larger type layout or at least see how it is done with someone who will answer my newbie questions. I have searched and there doesn't seem to be any clubs near me. Thanks, Rick :thumbsup:


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Well my good man what do you mean manually, What no switch machines to do it electrical is that what your saying? How many do you want? You would have to get the control switches for them but I've got a boat load of switch machines I need to unload!
Oh and do you want some NS snap switches too? I think I've got as few left. I don't use them any more I've went to all #6's and #8's my long cars fit better on them! I'm even thinking of going to custom #12's for the Amtrak runs! Switching at 100 miles per hr!!!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I like simple, old-school stuff. I have two manual switches on my little HO layout, and 4 manual switches on the simple O setup.

Someday I'll upgrade, but they work fine for me at this point. (With the exception that I'm ready to ditch the O27 switches for O switches at some point.)

TJ


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

NIMT.COM said:


> Well my good man what do you mean manually, What no switch machines to do it electrical is that what your saying? How many do you want? You would have to get the control switches for them but I've got a boat load of switch machines I need to unload!
> Oh and do you want some NS snap switches too? I think I've got as few left. I don't use them any more I've went to all #6's and #8's my long cars fit better on them! I'm even thinking of going to custom #12's for the Amtrak runs! Switching at 100 miles per hr!!!



As he said he is learning and I think your like talking Latin to him.
I think some pictures would help Rick some as to what your saying.
Do you have the time? 

Maybe I am wrong, but I don't think he seeing what your saying.


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## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

Ok now that I confused you I know pics help me so I took a few to help. The turnouts I have are brass Misc. brands and only a few switch both ways. A few switch to one side and stay. I replaced a few switches and tested all the turn outs on the new switches to be sure. 
What is a snap switch?

Ok and thinking further ahead is it possible to operate turn outs with a DCC? If this requires a computer I'm not ready for that yet. My layout is pretty small so getting up and flipping the little switch isn't a big deal but I wired it all up for them to work and it is kinda cool to switch everything from a central control panel. 

Also what about 2 turn outs on the same switch? 

Thanks for the help guys! :thumbsup:


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## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

big ed said:


> As he said he is learning and I think your like talking Latin to him.
> I think some pictures would help Rick some as to what your saying.
> Do you have the time?
> 
> Maybe I am wrong, but I don't think he seeing what your saying.


Haha... :laugh: No worries Ed. I am learning Latin and kinda like it. This site makes this a really enjoyable hobby for me. 

I like to talk with pics too! :laugh::laugh:


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## tankist (Jun 11, 2009)

you can operate manually if its your thing. or you can triger them remotley. perhaps triger those out of easy reach. i would think two turnouts (a crossover perhaps) will be ok on one atlas switch but i never tried it (and i don't like atlas ). 
here is my all analog controller - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sj_GGW0_nXw
(and BTW i'm selling the CDU  )
No DCC, nor computer is really needed to operate, but sertanly add very interesting dimention into it. 

with that, i would not use anything but best equipment. as hard as it may be to change over to better, fully operational turnouts it will be even harder in future (when you realize you can no longer work with half way stuff) to rip them out and replace. 
i know you haven't asked my opinion, but turnouts you have pictured are near worthless. even leaving aside the fact they are brass those are snap switches, not even customline (which are better but still bad as far as my experience was). IMHO that stuff can not be used anywhere near serious layout. as i see it save up a bit and look for preowned shinoharas or better yet peco. 
but then again you can think of me as turnout nazzi - 99.9% reliable operation is not good enogh for me. i will not settle for less then 100, even if this means i own less engines and cars. 
feel free to disregard my unasked for 0.00002 cents


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## BrooklynBound718 (Dec 23, 2010)

tankist said:


> you can operate manually if its your thing. or you can triger them remotley. perhaps triger those out of easy reach. i would think two turnouts (a crossover perhaps) will be ok on one atlas switch but i never tried it (and i don't like atlas ).
> here is my all analog controller - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sj_GGW0_nXw
> (and BTW i'm selling the CDU  )
> No DCC, nor computer is really needed to operate, but sertanly add very interesting dimention into it.
> ...


Not hijacking your thread Concretepumper:

Thanks for that reply Anton to concretepumper because I surely didn't know about quality turnouts. Great video too.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Atlas bashing WOW. It feels like I've been there recently. 
OH OK yes there are cheap, but if you set them up right they work fine.
I've demonstrated it to other friend's that are die hard peco and shinohara fans!
We all don't have the big bucks to afford Shinohara Turnouts so you make do with what we have or what you can get a hold of.
I won't say they are better than all others, but we make do with a Honda when a Ferrari would be a nicer ride dont we. 
The new atlas custom line switches are very hard to tell the difference from Pecos. 
I use all tortoise switch machines and not any dual coil ones.
I've got a bunch of dual coil switch machines laying around and IMHO (I'll be nice) I don't like them!:thumbsdown:
The bonus is I can run all of my Switch Machines off of a simple AC power supply and a cheap spst switch and they never burnout or miss a switch.
It works equally well on my $10 atlas and my $100 shinohara turnouts.
I've got well over 250 turnouts and tortoise switch machines so I don't like derails or missed switches either.
I am getting set up to make my own turnouts from Fast tracks, why because I want too!!:laugh::laugh::laugh: Seriously It's the only way I can get the #12 turnouts I want. If Can buy em build em that's my moto!
Everyone's got their opinion and we all know what they say about that!:laugh:
What works well for one may not work well for another!
OK That said, putting soap box back in dark closet!hwell:
In plain English CP PM me and I will help you work out your switch dilemma!


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## tankist (Jun 11, 2009)

NIMT.COM said:


> but if you set them up right they work fine.


we must have different understanding of what "Fine" means... . 

difference in level of workmanship is immidiately apparent. difference in performance is apparent as well - suddenly rolling stock stops jumping and rocking throough the frog. and i still fail to see how new atlas at over 10$ is cheaper then 6-8$ secondhand shinohara. oh well.


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

concretepumper said:


> Just curious if anyone manually switches their turn outs? I have 9 right now and only a few work properly. At first I just told myself I would change them later but some will be hard to do later and I don't have the cash now to buy new. I am sure some or most could be fixed.
> Basically just curious if anyone operates In a manual switching?QUOTE]
> 
> I have 21 dfferent switches and turnouts on my layout and all are manual. A few of them are Atlas snap switches and turnouts, but most are Peco. Of the Peco switches, all but two are insulfrogs. The other two are electrofrogs. To change all 21 switches into remotes would take a considerable chunk of change to say the least, not to mention all of the extra wire that would be required. I think maybe the money would be better spent on maybe a couple of walk-arounds.
> ...


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

JZ,
I'm pretty new at this model RR gig. What the hell is a "walk around"?
Thanks,
Bob


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

raleets said:


> JZ,
> I'm pretty new at this model RR gig. What the hell is a "walk around"?
> Thanks,Bob


Bob, simply put, a walk around is a mobile variable power controller, if you will, that enables the modeler to walk around the layout while running his trains with it, hense the name "walk around." In other words, it's like walking around your layout with your transformer or decoder while running your trains.This makes running some of the more busy model railroads much easier to operate, as it enables the modeler to get right there where the action is and saves a lot of the back and forth motion of repeatedly going to and from a normal transformer or decoder. 

This is especially nice where a lot of switching operations such as coupling and uncoupling is involved. I've been to train shows where they were using these and let me try them. Most walk arounds today are made for DCC. I've seen them advertized from time to time while looking for something else. The really good DC versions though are a little harder to find.

Today, they may identify them by a different name, I don't know. But I've always known them as being called simply, "walk arounds."

JZ


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

OK, I get it.
Kind of like my TV remote that let's me change channels from the next room.
With my small 4X8 layout, and my long arms, and my need for exercise, I'll be able to save $$ by not buying a walk-around :laugh:
Thanks for the info.
Bob


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

concretepumper said:


> What is a snap switch?


 A Snap switch has a curved portion on the diverging side of about 18" radius. A regular 'numbered' turnout, such as a #6, has a straight leg for the diverging route. This makes it much easier for a 6 axle diesel or longer steam engine to get through the turnout without derailing. Snap switches work OK for small locos and cars, but they can cause all kinds of headaches for the bigger stuff.
If you look closely at the turnout in your photo, you will see that the diverging rout is curved, You have a Snap switch.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

You also have a small finishing nail under your cork!!
Yea right over there, next to the wire, pick it up!!


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## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)




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## mr_x_ite_ment (Jun 22, 2009)

I switch all my turnouts manually. They all work all right with few problems. They are all Atlas turnouts. I like the manual ones to the extent that they are relatively reliable...after all, you are the one making it switch. I don't own any snap switches, nor do I know anything about them.


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## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

So snap switches suck. Ok. Good eye Sean! :thumbsup:


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

They are OK for a small yard or industrial spur track!
Maybe you will get some #6's for your mainline and some #4's for your yard and spur tracks!


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## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

So the longer big Locos and stuff won't run very well through the snap switches? If I want to be serious and eventually run the big stuff I may not want these on the layout. Construction has stopped 24 hrs ago due to a frustrating kink in the flextrack and serious thought of Moving the whole train Operation to the Garage. Hmmmm...........


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Another trick is to stagger your rail joints so that your only making one rail connection in one spot, I usually try to keep at least 4 inch separation.


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## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

NIMT.COM said:


> Another trick is to stagger your rail joints so that your only making one rail connection in one spot, I usually try to keep at least 4 inch separation.


4 inches huh?  OK will give it a try!


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