# Show your Shelf layout \ switching yard



## EdC

My shelf layout is 12 inches by 6 feet. The design is called John Allen's switching puzzle. It is still under construction. Currently I am converting the 5 switches to bullfrog manual control made by Fast Tracks. I have 2 completed. I am also soldering thin wires on the movable part of the frog.

Ed


----------



## nrscroller

*NIce*

HI,
That is a cute layout, creates a lot of fun. I went to a modular small switching layout a couple years ago and just added on another module to it. I only have 1 engine and 12 cars at a time on the layout on DCC
Bill


----------



## EdC

nrscroller said:


> HI,
> That is a cute layout, creates a lot of fun. I went to a modular small switching layout a couple years ago and just added on another module to it. I only have 1 engine and 12 cars at a time on the layout on DCC
> Bill


Hi Bill, How about posting some pictures. It sounds like a nice switching layout.

Ed


----------



## J.Albert1949

I used the Kato/MR "Black River Junction" plan as a starting point. It's a 4x8 table with a L-shaped "extension" at one end.

The original plan for the extension was overly simple and didn't have enough capacity. So I made the extension wider by a few inches, and came up with my own track plan through experimentation. Went through a couple of "versions" until I got it to my liking.

From right to left...
- the "main"
- runaround
- 3 yard tracks
- stub end track for engines
- two tracks at left are separate from the yard, are for the "branch line". They're only "close" because of the limited space I had available.








Here's how it looks full of cars (and too many engines!):







... and my ancient Plasticville freight house in the pic, too!


----------



## EdC

J.Albert1949 said:


> I used the Kato/MR "Black River Junction" plan as a starting point. It's a 4x8 table with a L-shaped "extension" at one end.
> 
> The original plan for the extension was overly simple and didn't have enough capacity. So I made the extension wider by a few inches, and came up with my own track plan through experimentation. Went through a couple of "versions" until I got it to my liking.


J.Albert1949, Nice looking track plan. Thanks for posting.

Ed


----------



## MichaelE

That's a nice little switching layout.


----------



## traction fan

*(Book) shelf layout*

EdC;

My layout is a bit more than a typical "switching"(only) type layout, but it definitely qualifies as a shelf layout. It is based on an old (January & February 1977) Model Railroader Magazine article titled "Bookshelf Railroads." 
The basic idea was to have a top over each of the layout sections that would be used to hold books, or whatever else you choose. The model railroad would be built into the lower level. The illustration in the magazine article showed the furniture-finished railroad mounted to a living room wall. As a long-married man, I have learned that this can only be done in the living room of a bachelor! :laugh: My own layout is fastened to two walls of my garage. 
I wanted a two-level railroad, so I stacked two layers of the "Bookshelf Railroads" sections. My other change was to use much lighter materials than the 3/4" plywood, and pressed wood commercial shelving, that the author had used. My layout is N-scale. The basic section (1rst photo) is 4' long, 16" high and 16" deep. The 4' length will work well for any scale. The 16" height, and depth, would be OK for a simple HO-scale layout. The same design could be used with other scales by changing the height, and depth, as needed. I use deeper sections at each end to accommodate return loops & a passenger station yard.

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## EdC

traction fan said:


> EdC;
> 
> My layout is a bit more than a typical "switching"(only) type layout, but it definitely qualifies as a shelf layout. It is based on an old (January & February 1977) Model Railroader Magazine article titled "Bookshelf Railroads."
> 
> Hi Traction Fan, Thanks for posting pictures of your layout. I plan on covering my switching layout also, to install blue lighting for night time switching.
> 
> Ed


----------



## Dennis461

*overcrowded*

My space had room for a turnaround at one end using 18"R curves. Too much rolling stock available, and I just had to have a powered F7B, I've got to limit myself to four car trains or it is not workable. I also have to cut in a couple more blocks (DC). Beneath the camera, out of view, is about 36" more yard.


----------



## EdC

Dennis461 said:


> My space had room for a turnaround at one end using 18"R curves. Too much rolling stock available, and I just had to have a powered F7B, I've got to limit myself to four car trains or it is not workable. I also have to cut in a couple more blocks (DC). Beneath the camera, out of view, is about 36" more yard.


Hi Dennis, You have a nice long shelf layout. Make mine look wimpy at 6 feet.

Ed


----------



## scottmac99

Well, I would show mine, but it's been 2 days since my first ever post (a new topic about the Atlas HO turntable and the fact that one of rails lost power) , and it's still not visible, so no point really.


----------



## gregc




----------



## traction fan

*Attaching photos*



scottmac99 said:


> Well, I would show mine, but it's been 2 days since my first ever post (a new topic about the Atlas HO turntable and the fact that one of rails lost power) , and it's still not visible, so no point really.


scottmac99;

If your whole post disappeared, or never appeared, it may be held up in moderation. You can ask gunrunnerjohn about that.
If the text went through, but a planned photo did not, that may be because a member has to have at least five posts to the forum before he/she can attach photos. Directions for attaching photos are in the "Forum News, Updates, and Help" section. 

good luck;

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

scottmac99 said:


> Well, I would show mine, but it's been 2 days since my first ever post (a new topic about the Atlas HO turntable and the fact that one of rails lost power) , and it's still not visible, so no point really.


You need 5 posts before graphics can be posted. This is simply a SPAM prevention measure, you'll be able to post normally after the first 5 posts.


----------



## traction fan

*Night and day LED lighting*



EdC said:


> traction fan said:
> 
> 
> 
> EdC;
> 
> My layout is a bit more than a typical "switching"(only) type layout, but it definitely qualifies as a shelf layout. It is based on an old (January & February 1977) Model Railroader Magazine article titled "Bookshelf Railroads."
> 
> Hi Traction Fan, Thanks for posting pictures of your layout. I plan on covering my switching layout also, to install blue lighting for night time switching.
> 
> Ed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EdC;
> 
> Your idea of adding a top to support lighting is a good one. Many larger layouts have lighting hidden behind a "valence" board running along the ceiling. My own smaller layout has a miniature valence at the front of the top. The top on my layout supports a lot more than lights. The original design was based on using that top as a shelf to support many books. My collection of train books & magazines, some video tapes, a VCR (yes I still have one! :smilie_auslachen: ) and a TV set (the old style with a picture tube!) are all on that shelf. That's a whole lot of weight, which is the reason for the arches shown in the first photo of my earlier response. They make the top super strong.
> 
> Nighttime operation can add a lot of interest, and blue "night" lighting is a good idea. Actually I have blue "nighttime" and white "daytime" LED lighting behind the valence on each of my layout sections. It doesn't show in the photos I sent last time, but the first one below does show one of several strips of LEDs that light one of my end loop sections. It's at the top left, directly above the lighthouse and cottage.
> I used several coats of Tamiya clear blue model paint as a glass stain on the LED strips for "night" lighting. I mounted alternating day, and night, light strips along the valence.
> The high intensity LED strips I used were taken from a 14" round ceiling light fixture made by a company called "Lights of America" I bought several of these fixtures at my local Costco store. They haven't been seen in the store for quite awhile, but they may be available online. The LED strips from this particular lighting fixture are ideal for model railroad lighting. They're small, very bright, and produce little heat. I mounted the LED strip circuit boards on pieces of aluminum angle that I straightened from 90 degrees, to approx. 45 degrees, by beating it with a hammer against a vise. I used thermal compound between the LED circuit board and the aluminum angle, so it serves as a heat sink as well as a physical mount and light reflector.
> 
> If you decide to do this, make sure you get the same make of ceiling fixture. Home Depot sells a similar size and price fixture that does not produce anything like the same amount of light. It uses different LEDs which are not mounted in strips, or on circuit boards. In short, it won't work for layout lighting.
> 
> The photos below show the box the ceiling fixture comes in, the LED strip circuit board, a section of modified aluminum angle, and the round white plastic-cased "driver" from the ceiling fixture. This driver converts 120vac house current to the 50vdc used to power the LED strip arrays. One driver powers four strips wired in series. I use 120v light dimmer wall switches to power the drivers. Two dimmer switches mechanically linked, knob-to-knob, let me dim the white day strips while simultaneously bringing up the blue night strips. Perhaps I should have used more blue light for the "nighttime" view of the lighthouse. That photo's pretty dark. Although if I had powered up the lights in the structures then it might look OK. I considered orange sunset/sunrise lights, but decided that was a bit too much, at least for now.
> 
> Good luck, Have fun!
> 
> Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:
Click to expand...


----------



## scottmac99

gunrunnerjohn said:


> You need 5 posts before graphics can be posted. This is simply a SPAM prevention measure, you'll be able to post normally after the first 5 posts.


Yep, got that, thanks, but I posted no graphics, so I was getting concerned that my thread had been absorbed by a coat hanger or something


----------



## scottmac99

Meantime, here is my contribution (goodness, I hadn't realised this was so long ago) to the shelf layout theme ... http://www.carendt.com/small-layout-scrapbook/page-98a-june-2010/#hillside


----------



## EdC

Traction Fan, I will check out the lights at home depot.

Ed


----------



## traction fan

*Check carefully*



EdC said:


> Traction Fan, I will check out the lights at home depot.
> 
> Ed


Ed;

Check the inside of any Home Depot LED light fixture before buying if possible. HD also has a 30 day return policy. Check that too. It won't do much good to get the wrong light. The whole point of my buying that particular fixture was the unusual brightness, and the fact that the LEDs were on easily detachable printed circuit boards. The light I saw at Home Depot had neither brightness, nor circuit boards. I did look on Lights of America's website and they don't show the exact same fixture. Amazon does show one that may be identical internally. It is part # 4160DE-MG3. Unfortunately, they don't have any in stock and don't know when, or if, more will be available. However the first review says "Costco used to sell this at a lower price, but they don't have it any more." That's what makes me think that this is the same 72 surface-mount LED 14" round ceiling fixture that I bought at Costco. It also doesn't show a price, which makes sense as Amazon doesn't have any to sell.
You might look at the LED "rope lights" (LEDs inside plastic tubing) or christmas lights, most of which are LEDs now.

Good luck;

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## scottmac99

Lot of similarities here, except your layouts are better ! I've been reclaiming a corner of my workshed, by insulating and lining, then installing reclaimed cypress pine flooboards. Long way to go yet (I need a front wall, a door, and a ceiling) but here are some shots of progress to date (if I can get them to upload - bear with me).

Nope, it doesn't like my images. In fact it doesn't even like my posts. Topics I started weeks ago have still not appeared. I give in. I'll join another forum.


----------



## MichaelE

scottmac99 said:


> Lot of similarities here, except your layouts are better ! I've been reclaiming a corner of my workshed, by insulating and lining, then installing reclaimed cypress pine flooboards. Long way to go yet (I need a front wall, a door, and a ceiling) but here are some shots of progress to date (if I can get them to upload - bear with me).
> 
> Nope, it doesn't like my images. In fact it doesn't even like my posts. Topics I started weeks ago have still not appeared. I give in. I'll join another forum.


You have no photo links in your post, unless you previously deleted them.

Are you uploading linked photos from a server or uploading as an attachment from your hard drive?

You cannot upload directly from your hard drive.


----------



## scottmac99

I'm afraid I used the 'Manage attachments' button, which seems to invite me to attach any of a fairly wide range of image files ... viz

Attach Files

Valid file extensions: any avi doc gif jpe jpeg jpg mp3 pdf png psd txt zip

Can the system handle a Dropbox link, e.g. this one ?

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/rya8vkj4adh9e6t/AADz43KcFp_wQsuN4yFpxTy8a?dl=0


----------



## Big Ed

scottmac99 said:


> I'm afraid I used the 'Manage attachments' button, which seems to invite me to attach any of a fairly wide range of image files ... viz
> 
> Attach Files
> 
> Valid file extensions: any avi doc gif jpe jpeg jpg mp3 pdf png psd txt zip
> 
> Can the system handle a Dropbox link, e.g. this one ?
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/rya8vkj4adh9e6t/AADz43KcFp_wQsuN4yFpxTy8a?dl=0



here, my copy and paste

After you get 5 posts done, look up top in the posting box.

You click on the paper clip next to the
smiley face above.
It will give you a new screen
where you click on choose file.
That will take you to
your computer's picture files.
Select one and click
on open.
Then upload.
After you see that the upload worked, X out of that box.

Then click on the paper clip to insert the picture.

If your picture won't upload it might be too big.


----------



## MichaelE

scottmac99 said:


> I'm afraid I used the 'Manage attachments' button, which seems to invite me to attach any of a fairly wide range of image files ... viz
> 
> Attach Files
> 
> Valid file extensions: any avi doc gif jpe jpeg jpg mp3 pdf png psd txt zip
> 
> Can the system handle a Dropbox link, e.g. this one ?
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/rya8vkj4adh9e6t/AADz43KcFp_wQsuN4yFpxTy8a?dl=0


No, not as an attachment, but as a link to a photo server if you right click, select copy image location and use image tags like this:










But the link address is a mile long. Just use Imgur. And resize your photos to something more reasonable like 800x600.

We don't really need or want a photo that is a bazillion pixels in size.


----------



## MichaelE

This is my new Deutsche Bahn five track staging yard.

The outside track on the right will have an additional right hand turnout, a short length of straight track, and then split into a #5 wye with two additional tracks that lead into a Deutsche Bahn electric engine servicing facility. It will be placed at the far end where the yard ladder angles to the left. 

One of the service tracks will be a dedicated programming track. I ordered the wye tonight, so by next Friday I hope to have all of the trackage completed. The two service tracks will not be attached to the sub-roadbed until I purchase and build the service facility because I do not yet know what the track spacing is going to be.


----------



## scottmac99

MichaelE said:


> No, not as an attachment, but as a link to a photo server if you right click, select copy image location and use image tags like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the link address is a mile long. Just use Imgur. And resize your photos to something more reasonable like 800x600.
> 
> We don't really need or want a photo that is a bazillion pixels in size.


Now that is really weird, because ...

. If I go to _this_ URL (i.e. _this_ page of the forum) _without_ logging in as me, so I could be anybody looking at the forum, and I click on my dropbox link, it take me straight to my photos, all nicely laid out as thumbnails, and readily clickable.
. And you can see from the above quote that what I see with _your_ image tag example is even more zillion characters.

The upshot is that I still don't know what's going on with images here. Sorry. My bad.


----------



## scottmac99

Ah, that's exactly what I tried to do in the first place, but it probably fell over because I was trying to upload all of them simultaneously. And they were big file sizes

Then one of the forum posts above said that you can't actually upload from your hard drive. But that's exactly what this is ?

So ... here we go then ... original file sizes are a bit large'ish but way smaller than the Mb limit specified in the Management Attachments box. Regardless, I have resized them to be quite small.

As I said earlier, lots more to do yet, e.g. a roof, a front wall, a door, and heaps still to do on the layout.


----------



## MichaelE

You _are_ uploading photos from your hard drive; to the site's server. 

I _should_ have said you cannot _*post*_ photos directly from your hard drive.


----------



## Riggzie

fyi - when I was uploading photos in my new member post..
the box for attachments shows 10 lines and I click browse, select photo for each one.. added 10 but it fails... 
I then did 6 and it failed. 
did 1 and it worked..

so while it will show 10 lines to upload... I could only get 5 to work at a time... 

I see you have 6 so maybe that was the issue?


----------



## Riggzie

MichaelE said:


> This is my new Deutsche Bahn five track staging yard.
> 
> The outside track on the right will have an additional right hand turnout, a short length of straight track, and then split into a #5 wye with two additional tracks that lead into a Deutsche Bahn electric engine servicing facility. It will be placed at the far end where the yard ladder angles to the left.
> 
> One of the service tracks will be a dedicated programming track. I ordered the wye tonight, so by next Friday I hope to have all of the trackage completed. The two service tracks will not be attached to the sub-roadbed until I purchase and build the service facility because I do not yet know what the track spacing is going to be.



wow this is so cool! LOVE IT!!!!!
when I do my HO, I will have to do something like this as I will have many trains out and would love this setup.... also wanted to incorporate my turntable...


----------



## Riggzie

scottmac99 said:


> Ah, that's exactly what I tried to do in the first place, but it probably fell over because I was trying to upload all of them simultaneously. And they were big file sizes
> 
> Then one of the forum posts above said that you can't actually upload from your hard drive. But that's exactly what this is ?
> 
> So ... here we go then ... original file sizes are a bit large'ish but way smaller than the Mb limit specified in the Management Attachments box. Regardless, I have resized them to be quite small.
> 
> As I said earlier, lots more to do yet, e.g. a roof, a front wall, a door, and heaps still to do on the layout.


sill question....
I see the turntable at the end and no tracks behind it... why? I have a turntable and want to incorporate it but never thought of it at the end... :thumbsup:


----------



## Tom_C

I think the obvious answer is 'because that's not how he built it on his shelf layout'. 

I guess in theory one would want various engine sheds around the turntable, but he didn't have room.


----------



## EdC

Hi scottmac99, That is a really nice shelf layout you built. It looks like you used real dirt on the base, it looks good. How long is the shelf layout?

Ed


----------



## Shdwdrgn

Regarding the turntable, there is of course precedence for such an arrangement when you simply need to turn your loco around. I've seen other views that go along with this photo, and I believe the story was that the loco simply needed turned around after dropping cars off on the spur, so there is only the single line heading into the turntable.










I know the view is weird here, it looks like the track goes right up to the side of the turntable. It actually does not, it just looks that way because of the grade of the track since the turntable was placed right at ground level rather than being dug in.


----------



## scottmac99

MichaelE said:


> You _are_ uploading photos from your hard drive; to the site's server.
> 
> I _should_ have said you cannot _*post*_ photos directly from your hard drive.


Ah, yes, that makes sense. Thanks Michael.


----------



## scottmac99

EdC said:


> Hi scottmac99, That is a really nice shelf layout you built. It looks like you used real dirt on the base, it looks good. How long is the shelf layout?
> 
> Ed


1.9 meters. The baseboard is an Ikea 'Lack' shelf, that comes with a metal framework to enable effectively invisible mounting to the wall. The shelf itself is ultra-lightweight.

It was (and is) a bit of an experiment, but I couldn't import the baseboard(s) I wanted (from the UK) because of the Oz Govt's restrictions on importation of wood products that are not certified as having been treated to get rig of bugs.

So I sloooooowly built up the back and sides, as shown the pics attached. The overall structure is still pretty light, I can easily lift into position on the wall.

There is a shorter version of the Lack shelf, so in theory I could extend the layout at one or both ends.

The plan is, of course, closely based on John Armstrong's switching puzzle, with the addition of the turntable. The turntable was never meant to send locos anywhere, it was a means of turning them (should I want to to) but more importantly to act as a sort of sector plate. By having the turntable instead of extra track, I've probably saved a half meter or so in the length of the baseboard.

The only drawback with the turntable (as I have posted elsewhere) is that one of the rails lost power. I eventually worked out how to get the top surface off, lifted it up and exposed the two little spring-loaded lugs that pick up the power and transmit it to the track (and also reverse the polarity as needed). The only problem with that was that one of the teensy-tiny little springs went 'ping' and bounced off to I know not where. I could barely see it when I knew where it was, let alone where it might have gone to. Somewhere on the floor probably. I dragged a magnet around trying to locate it but to no avail. So power is now (for the time-being) delivered to the turntable via a couple of ugly screwed connections right next to the sidescene. That of course means I can't use the turntable as a turntable proper. But I've decided (out of necessity) that using it as sector plate is fine (and also adds just a little more challenge to the switching tasks).

[Replacement lugs cost only $USD2.30 approx, but $USD20.00 postage from the USA to down here, which amounts to about half what I paid for the turntable in the first place. So I'm not buying any.]

The trackwork is Peco HO/OO even though the layout is On30 (with Bachmann locos and cars). My technique is to remove every third (say) sleeper/tie, then rearrange what's left so that the track looks a bit rustic. 

Yes, the ballast is real gravel, collected from the roadside, and sieved to be super-fine, then applied in the usual way and fixed with a white glue/washing detergent solution dripped on.

The Peco turnouts allow for super-reliable electrical continuity, if you can be bothered setting them up with the appropriate switches. I've just left them as is and they seem to work OK. I had contemplated some sort of wire-in-tube control from the front of the layout, but decided that the big-finger-from-the-sky would be good enough. And it is.

It's a tiny little layout, but one that I find is fun to use. Lots more to do, e.g. build up some of the Clever Models card kits as building flats/low relief to go on the backscene.

I'm currently using just two locos, the Bachmann On30 Forney, and and Ixion Models On30 'Coffee Pot' (based on a real-life and still operating Sth Australian prototype). Both are very good runners. The Coffee Pot doesn't have couplings as such, so I use it more as a shunting device. It also functions as part of the puzzle, in that when it's in the way, I have to move it to somewhere else on the layout. Unfortunately it's just a tad too long for the turntable, but that's not a biggie. [I also have a couple of the Bachmann gas 0-4-0 engines, but they are pretty unreliable electrically because of the very short wheelbase - plus one of them seems to have stripped one of its drive pinions.]


----------



## aquakiwi

I'm in the process of doing a shelf layout, poor picture but i'll post some better ones soon.


----------



## scottmac99

Shdwdrgn said:


> Regarding the turntable, there is of course precedence for such an arrangement when you simply need to turn your loco around. I've seen other views that go along with this photo, and I believe the story was that the loco simply needed turned around after dropping cars off on the spur, so there is only the single line heading into the turntable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know the view is weird here, it looks like the track goes right up to the side of the turntable. It actually does not, it just looks that way because of the grade of the track since the turntable was placed right at ground level rather than being dug in.


There's lots of examples down here, too, of turntables installed solely for the purpose of turning locos, with no shed or stall in sight, eg. Daylesford, near where I live ...

https://railgallery.wongm.com/daylesford-spa-country-railway/F137_6604.jpg.html

And Victor Harbour, Sth Australia ...


----------



## EdC

scottmac99 said:


> 1.9 meters. The baseboard is an Ikea 'Lack' shelf, that comes with a metal framework to enable effectively invisible mounting to the wall. The shelf itself is ultra-lightweight.
> 
> That is a nice setup. Your shelf layout is a little bit longer than mine.
> 
> Ed


----------



## Grzldvt

With a serious tongue in cheek, this is my Lionel HO Texas Special repair shelf. Some of the engines run, just not under a load. I have a motor into Just Trains as they have a Lionel Remagnetizer Motor Service. Although they have had one motor since before Thanksgiving. If that works, the rest will go in.
But here is my repair yard/shelf. Long story but have a serious sentiment to the Lionel Texas Special and have been just having a blast collecting them. I have at least 6 more running A Units and 4 B units stored underneath the shelf.


----------



## scottmac99

EdC said:


> scottmac99 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 1.9 meters. The baseboard is an Ikea 'Lack' shelf, that comes with a metal framework to enable effectively invisible mounting to the wall. The shelf itself is ultra-lightweight.
> 
> That is a nice setup. Your shelf layout is a little bit longer than mine.
> 
> Ed
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, well, we finally have rain, at least in our part of the country (not sure about the bushfire areas) and I've discovered a leak in the roof right above the layout. So I need to get topside with some silicon.
Click to expand...


----------



## EdC

Here is a PDF file of some great shelf layouts. It features American and European style layouts in HO, N and O scale.

Ed

http://www.amherstrail.org/ABEL/Downloads/Shelf-Layouts.pdf


----------



## Shdwdrgn

I've been looking through your PDF with some interest, as I think a switching shelf layout could give me a great platform to design some computer control code with. In particular I'm looking at the "modern industrial" L-shaped shelf on page 41 (which I've compressed down to 72" legs and only 12" deep -- doesn't leave much room for scenery but it still gives me the same track work).

I'm curious if this allows for any common puzzles that I could work with? I like how this plan has two distinct types of areas, I'm just not too familiar with how operations might work within these areas so I was hoping someone might point out some applicable puzzles I could apply to this design?

[Edit] I just realized that the business section of this layout is a slightly expanded version of the classic 'timesaver' puzzle. That helps a lot in finding puzzles I can run through this track! Now I just have to find some puzzles for yard section...


----------



## EdC

Shdwdrgn said:


> I've been looking through your PDF with some interest, as I think a switching shelf layout could give me a great platform to design some computer control code with. In particular I'm looking at the "modern industrial" L-shaped shelf on page 41 (which I've compressed down to 72" legs and only 12" deep -- doesn't leave much room for scenery but it still gives me the same track work).
> 
> I'm curious if this allows for any common puzzles that I could work with? I like how this plan has two distinct types of areas, I'm just not too familiar with how operations might work within these areas so I was hoping someone might point out some applicable puzzles I could apply to this design?
> 
> [Edit] I just realized that the business section of this layout is a slightly expanded version of the classic 'timesaver' puzzle. That helps a lot in finding puzzles I can run through this track! Now I just have to find some puzzles for yard section...


Shdwdrgn, Look up John Allens time saver puzzle on line to get an idea how it works. It is set up so only two 40 ft cars and a short switcher will fit on two of the tracks. Other tracks will allow three cars and an engine. You can apply that to you shelf layout.

Here is a time saver in O scale.






Ed


----------



## Shdwdrgn

Yep, there's actually a good description here showing exactly how many cars should fit at each position of the layout. The shelf layout I'm looking at has the mainline running through that straight section so the dimensions are exceeded there, but I can work with that since I know the parameters. The main goal is to try and get the computer to perform the entire switching operation unattended and this seems like a good test case to work with.

I've also been looking at the Inglenook Sidings, which seems like it can be applied to any generic yard layout and provides more puzzles for me to work with on the other leg of the shelf. Now I just need to build 15 turnouts and pick up three more boxes of flex track in order to put this together!


----------



## EdC

Shdwdrgn, I hope you post pictures of you progress. It sound very interesting.

Ed


----------



## Shdwdrgn

Here's the track plan I have worked up so far (grid lines are in feet). Due to the compression the large curve in only 18R, but the turnouts are all about 21R. I was thinking I could simulate mainline traffic with one of those programmable LED strip lights. When I have everything working right, the computer should always know where each loco and car are sitting, and thus should be able to detect a collision if one of the switchers doesn't get out of the way in time. Otherwise switching operations will make use of the mainline track, which is similar to the setup I have for my planned layout.


----------



## EdC

Nice layout. And you have a runaround on each leg. You can install background flats against the wall for some scenery. They are 1/4" thick. They make them for O and HO scale.

Check out HO scale background building flats on Ebay. 

Ed


----------



## Shdwdrgn

Thanks, but it's not my design.  That's almost straight from your PDF, with one small siding removed and everything sorted to fit on a 12" shelf. It barely keeps the required sizes for the timesaver puzzle, but I tried to maintain the spirit of the original in a much smaller space. The left leg was the real challenge. All tracks maintain a 2" center-to-center except for the three yard tracks, which were dropped to 1-7/8". That extra 1/4" of space goes a long ways when you're that close to the edge! 

At this point I'm barely thinking about backdrops. I'll be happy if I can fit in some simple landscaping, but we'll see how it goes. I'm not even sure if I'll try to use foam, I may just build it right on a piece of plywood. Since this is mostly a test piece to try and work out sensors and such, I may end up tearing things apart a few times as I go.


----------



## gardena_shortline

Here's my HO scale switching layout. All the track has been laid except for the chemical facility and some buildings are in place. Ended up making the storage yard a bit bigger.

Guess my image doesn't show up. Here's a link.
https://imgur.com/gEI4cEl


----------



## EdC

gardena_shortline said:


> Here's my HO scale switching layout. All the track has been laid except for the chemical facility and some buildings are in place. Ended up making the storage yard a bit bigger.
> 
> Guess my image doesn't show up. Here's a link.
> https://imgur.com/gEI4cEl


Try uploading the picture again. You have to have at least 5 posts to up load pictures. 

Ed


----------



## gardena_shortline

Here's my HO scale switching layout. All the track has been laid except for the chemical facility and some buildings are in place. Ended up making the storage yard a bit bigger.


----------



## Shdwdrgn

Wow, you have a lot of space! Looks like you can have all kinds of fun with that layout.


----------



## scottmac99

*Progress on the train shed within the workshop.*

It's taking a while but it's getting there. Silicon on the roof didn't fix the leak, but silicon from below seems to have done the trick. Regardless, I'm still going to install a sloping roof, insulated for summer heat and winter cold, so any water that does get in to the main workshop will (in theory) be well and truly deflected from the train bits.


----------



## EdC

Looking good.

Ed


----------



## scottmac99

*Update to my shelf layout*

Here's an update. I looooooove the Clever Models card kits. I'm trying to line the back- and side-scenes with building flats that I cobble together. Long way to go yet. And still more ballasting etc to do. Plus I need to find some way of hiding the wiring that makes the turntable work (I use it as a kind of sector plate).


----------



## EdC

That really looks nice. Did you make all of them?
Ed


----------



## Jscullans

I made a small diorama to display a couple of the locos I’ve weathered to make it look like an abandoned track. Closest thing I have to a shelf layout. 3’ long by 6” wide


----------



## QueenoftheGN

Nice!


----------



## Chaostrain

Looking good!


----------



## Cab1

EdC:

I like the little Chevy you got in the driveway. I have a 74 I had restored a few years back and had a 66 done when I was in my twenties.


----------



## EdC

Cab1 said:


> EdC:
> 
> I like the little Chevy you got in the driveway. I have a 74 I had restored a few years back and had a 66 done when I was in my twenties.


Thanks, I had it for 20 years then sold it when I retired.

Ed


----------



## scottmac99

EdC said:


> That really looks nice. Did you make all of them?
> Ed


I did, but you can thank Clever Models for the raw materials 

One exception - not sure where/how I found the big flat building on the far LHS. I printed it out in two A4 sheets of card, but the second one came out slightly smaller, so I've had to make a few 'adjustments' to fit the two pieces together. I think it works OK.

Meantime, I've just bought a huge amount of Atlas code 83 track and turnouts (at least 20 of the latter), complete with snap solenoids and a heap of other Atlas electrical goodies, so I'm going to have to look at expanding  Total cost wound up being $AUD300 = $USD210 approx. Seller had dismantled his large layout, due to a house move.


----------



## Cab1

EdC;

Yeah, that really sucks. When I was a kid going to SMU you could buy a good roller to build a nice street machine for reasonable money. I only paid $2500 for my 66. Even though I brought it home in a basket, and the previous owner had stripped off all the paint from the gel-coat with a grinder, everything was there. They were deals all over the place. Now you have to shell out 40-50 grand for a 66 just to get something to work with. Now a days finding a split window roller to work with for any amount of money is almost impossible.


----------



## scottmac99

*My solution to hiding the jury-rigged TT wiring*

I 'modified' one of the Clever Models O-scale kits (this shelf layout is On3, using Bachmann locos and rolling stock).


----------



## Lemonhawk

Fifth picture show the switches used to activate the turnout motors. I would avoid using them and read up on using a CD circuit instead. Being a car guy, you probably know what CD stands for! Those Atlas switches will easily fry the turnout motors. You may have to do some minor tweaks to the Atlas turnouts, but I seem to recall the code 83 stuff working much better than the code 100 turnouts. On to designing the layout!


----------

