# How To Make A Level Surface On Door Layout?



## ARF! (1 mo ago)

hello, I am new to this just starting this year to pull stuff together and now have some platforms to build upon. I have many hollow core doors I picked up from a renovation now so I want to get started, but most of them have warped lumps and edges and I want to run level tracks.

I was wondering if I could get some insight into cheap methods to fill in an area? I'd like to keep it light as possible in case I have to move/ship it. maybe something foamy (that ain't Great Stuff!) or fluffy that won't make weigh over taped up edges to dam it in as it cures? or am I overthinking how to get a level base on a platform??


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I once used a hollow core door for a backdrop. I cut it in half and inserted a 2X4 into the hollow to finish the edge. If your doors are warped, try inserting more wood support if you have the scrap.


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## Steve on Cattail Creek (11 mo ago)

ARF! said:


> hello, I am new to this just starting this year to pull stuff together and now have some platforms to build upon. I have many hollow core doors I picked up from a renovation now so I want to get started, but most of them have warped lumps and edges and I want to run level tracks.
> 
> I was wondering if I could get some insight into cheap methods to fill in an area? I'd like to keep it light as possible in case I have to move/ship it. maybe something foamy (that ain't Great Stuff!) or fluffy that won't make weigh over taped up edges to dam it in as it cures? or am I overthinking how to get a level base on a platform??


Well, I think you face exactly the dilemma faced by the constructors of prototype railroad years ago -- trying to create as level a track as possible in an undulating world -- and like them, I doubt you will find a single solution.

Let's start with basics: the only thing that really needs to be level is the base of the track. So, rather than try to fine tune the mounting of the doors and/or modifying their surface for the track, I'd probably just secure the doors in the configuration you desire (hanging them from the walls and/or building the benchwork supports under them if freestanding), with the top surface as close to level as you can reasonably arrange. Then, I'd purchase some inexpensive, stiff but somewhat flexible material (one-eighth inch pressed hardboard panels come to mind, which I've successfully used as the base of an elevated line) and cut it to follow the course of your track plan over the warped door surfaces

Once you have the hardboard base cut out and laid over the undulating surface of the doors, you can begin the tedious process of shimming and temporarily securing the base to the doors' surface, progressively using a carpentry level to constantly check for and adjust to create a level surface. Once you're done, I suspect you'll only need to fill an inch or two at most to bridge the gap between the leveled hardboard base and the doors' surface below it. 

FWIW, I suspect you*could* try to use Great Stuff to fill parts of the gap, but since it tends to expand as it sets up, it likely would warp the hardboard out of level, so I think your better choices are either to cut sections of cheap white styrofoam (either from sliced up recycled containers or a pack of half inch to inch thick insulation panels) to fit under the hardboard and tapered down on both sides to the door surface (there are a number of hot wire styrofoam carving tools available, or you can just cut it with a knife and clean up the mess afterwards!). Once properly fitted to the space, the pieces can be glued in place with dabs of styrofoam adhesive or latex caulk. In the alternative, there are a number of other landscaping techniques for filling or bridging a gap, such as stuffing crumpled paper under the hardboard to fill the space and form a slope down to the door surface on both sides.

Whatever the fill, the next step is to cover the slope with plaster of paris- or glue-soaked cloth or paper to form the surface, or you might want to consider a thin layer of Sculptamold or other landscape modeling medium. Like I said, you probably won't have any large gaps to fill, but if so, there are volumes of other landscape-building techniques and plenty of instructional videos available to guide you. Good luck, in any event!


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

You could use any 'leveling' compound, although it adds weight. Drywall mud, leveling concrete, screeded spackle or mud, even clean 'sandbox' sand available in 70-pound bags at most well-appointed contractor sales places and builder retailers.

Or, you could use a thin sheet of extruded foam insulation board and glue it carefully over the surface of the door as if you were going to laminate it with the foam, but don't press it into place. In fact, if you were to use gobs, quite a few, randomly placed, of PL300, you'd just have to lay the sheet of foamboard in place and let the PL300 dry. It can take a few days to harden, unfortunately. Our hobby should not be in a hurry.

The foam will be vulnerable to damage and to gouging. You'd want to put a thin fascia around the edge of the door high enough to cover the edges of the foamboard, and you'd want at least plaster cloth over bared expanses of the surface, which can be covered in ground foam and made to look like terrains.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I wonder if 2" thick foam used as a topping could
be 'shaved' where necessary to 'eliminate' the
warped door.

You did not mention what scale you will be using.
The door as a base would work fine for an N scale
layout. However a door would be far too narrow
to use for an HO layout. It is suggested that you
should have a minimum width of 5 feet. That
would accomodate 22 " curve radius which is
necessary to smoothly run the big 6 wheel truck
diesels and big steamers.

Don


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## GTW son (12 mo ago)

If you are building bench work for it screw right into the door edges to straighten it.
2x30 " and 2x80" pieces of a hardwood like popular would be perfect. Whether you butter or bevel the corners is your choice.


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## Mixed Freight (Aug 31, 2019)

If you need to fill in area, light-weight spackling compound works great, and like the name suggests, it weighs very little.

I use it all the time in conjunction with pink or blue insulation foam for scenery work.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

ARF! said:


> hello, I am new to this just starting this year to pull stuff together and now have some platforms to build upon. I have many hollow core doors I picked up from a renovation now so I want to get started, but most of them have warped lumps and edges and I want to run level tracks.
> 
> I was wondering if I could get some insight into cheap methods to fill in an area? I'd like to keep it light as possible in case I have to move/ship it. maybe something foamy (that ain't Great Stuff!) or fluffy that won't make weigh over taped up edges to dam it in as it cures? or am I overthinking how to get a level base on a platform??


ARF;

Since the lumps are caused by warping, they will likely warp more. For this reason, I would not recommend just covering the door with something like wood filler or anything else that has to set up, and harden. The warped wood may push up enough to break the filler.

Instead, I suggest doing all you can to press back down*, or shave off, lumps as needed.
As already stated, the critical area will be the part directly below the track,. The rest will only be the surrounding landscape which is practically never dead flat in real life.

* You might try this for "pressing back down". Examine the edges of the door near a lump. Wet the lump area so the wood will be flexible. Try to pry the edge up and insert some waterproof yellow carpenter's glue between the thin wood face of the door, and the frame. Then lay the door on a concrete garage floor, and stack 12" x 12" x 2" concrete pavers over the area. Use plenty of weight. Let the glue harden overnight, & check for flatness the next day.

"Shaving off" can be done with an electric orbital, or belt , sander.

Once the door is as flat as you can make it, glue a sheet of extruded foam insulation board over it with more carpenter's glue. Apply a thin layer of glue to the door, and to the bottom of the foam sheet. Let the glue dry for 30 Min. then add another thin layer of glue to the door, lay the foam sheet on top, and add concrete pavers over the entire surface. The dried glue and the newly-added liquid glue should bond very tightly overnight.

The entire outside of this door & foam sandwich should be painted to help keep out moisture.

Finally, if all this sounds like too much trouble, you could forget the doors, and just buy a sheet of 2" thick extruded foam.* Its very light, quite rigid, and very flat. You can glue cork roadbed to it with latex cork as the "glue." Then glue your track on top of the roadbed with small dabs of latex caulk.

* Note: Extruded foam is the hard blue, pink, or green, kind sold at home improvement stores as home insulation. Do not use the white Styrofoam bead board. It is not rigid, or stable, enough for a layout base.

Traction Fan


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

You could disassemble/cannibalize the doors thereby eliminating all warped areas. Peel off the veneer on each side. Disassemble the 1x2s, and reassemble however you want. Kinda like Legos. Hang on to the veneer as well, as it could be repurposed as fascia.

This way you are not stuck with the door dimensions and radius constraints. You can go narrower or wider. Use the 1x2s as support ribs under foam or just an open grid. An L girder or two screwed to the support ribs, and either legs or wall brackets depending on what you prefer. Warped/curved front edges don’t matter much.
Just because it’s currently a door doesn’t mean it has to stay that way. I just see “viable parts” presently assembled as that.


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

I wouldn't use hollow core doors... at all.

Instead, I'd build a framework using 1x3 (or 1x4) lumber.
For a light but usable top, I'd pick 1/4" BIRCH plywood.

Use flathead wood screws -- NOT NAILS -- for assembly.
Pre-drill holes with a countersink screw pilot for cleanliness.

Makes a smooth, flat, stable surface.

Here's an example (my own, under construction):








I set it upon two "L-girders" (with supporting legs), but you could attach legs directly to it, instead (legs could be made of 1x4 assembled as "L's"...)


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## scenicsRme (Aug 19, 2020)

OK, you bought some bad hollow core doors, and now the suggestions are all "spend more that the worth of the doors to fix them to still end up with an inferior product."
My suggestion would be to cut your losses right now and put the doors out to the curb on trash day. Today there is no reason to use doors or plywood in any form to support your layout. That is unnecessary and inferior "old school" construction, especially with the poor quality and high prices of today's plywood. I agree with what Traction Fan said: A 2" thick sheet of rigid insulation foam, the dense pink, blue or green, not the crumbly white is not going to cost but a few dollars more than a thinner sheet of the same foam or anything else you might use on your doors plus all the work trying to flatten them, and is plenty strong all by itself to support any layout you put on top and will stay flat. Put a frame of 1x4s around the edges if you'd like to protect the edges from rub wear and to give you a place to attach legs. The foam can be cut easily to a different size or shape better suited to your track plan. It doesn't need to be a rectangle! The foam can be stacked, carved, or routed out with a large knife or hot foam cutting tools to create landscape. The layout will be about as light as possible if future transportation is contemplated, You can pick up and carry a full 4x8' sheet of the 2" foam with one hand, try that with the doors. The entire underside of the layout is clear of obstructions for wiring, turnout machines, etc. You can poke wiring holes through or plant trees into holes in the foam made with a sharpened Bamboo skewer. The foam glues together well with Liquid Nails for Projects (the foam safe variety) and roadbed and or track can be glued down with inexpensive Alex caulk. No nails needed and easy to lift and change later if the need arises. This is the modern way to build a layout.


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## scenicsRme (Aug 19, 2020)

Also you'll use a lot of water when building scenery, the foam will not absorb water, warp or twist from moisture like wood will. If the foam you find has a thin plastic film on it, just peel it off for gluing to it. A light going over with a wire brush will cut through the skin and give it some tooth for gluing, or a quick sanding with 40 grit sandpaper will also work. Vacuum up the dust before gluing. There are tons of youtube videos on building with foam.


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## Ken4Sports (Feb 24, 2019)

OilValleyRy said:


> You could disassemble/cannibalize the doors thereby eliminating all warped areas. Peel off the veneer on each side. Disassemble the 1x2s, and reassemble however you want. Kinda like Legos. Hang on to the veneer as well, as it could be repurposed as fascia.
> 
> This way you are not stuck with the door dimensions and radius constraints. You can go narrower or wider. Use the 1x2s as support ribs under foam or just an open grid. An L girder or two screwed to the support ribs, and either legs or wall brackets depending on what you prefer. Warped/curved front edges don’t matter much.
> Just because it’s currently a door doesn’t mean it has to stay that way. I just see “viable parts” presently assembled as that.


There are a variety of lightweight self leveling products made for flooring. They will just seek out the low spots.


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