# Need camouflage expert; how to hide wires?



## llskis

Have started on my new layout/test track. Will have standard finished 8' X 4' plywood on
a large table with an 8 panel "All Aboard" set in the middle with a "S-track" large loop around it. Plywood will be covered with a new type "Grass non shedding mat". OK; thats the basics.
I am looking how to solve the age-old problem of "hiding the wires". Need some ideas if there
is any out there. Layout Track will be powered by two DC #16 rectiformers and accessorys will be powered by A/F #19B AC transformer. Comments Please;Need Help-Larry:dunno:


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## timlange3

Use a drill and put the wires under the layout.


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## flyernut

timlange3 said:


> Use a drill and put the wires under the layout.


What a hoot!!! Your suggestion actually made me chuckle... That's the easiest approach I can think of, and people have been doing it that way for a zillion years. If you don't want to do it that way, use "wire channel", available probably ay Loews or Home Depot. It sits on top of the table.. You'll find it in the electric aisle. Folks also use it to hide speaker wires, etc. It's very tasteful, depending on the kind you get. I used it in my living room when I installed my Bose Home Theater system. It was an off-white, actually ivory, and blended in with the wall paint very nicely. The stuff is called wire-mold, and is available at Home Depot... The color is white, 12ft length, kit with corners, etc, for $23 bucks.


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## llskis

flyernut: Not sure what a "wire channel" looks like. Can you post a picture?? Larry


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## alman

*Wire Channel*

Here is a pic of one type . There are a few different types >


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## flyernut

It's actually called wiremold. It comes in round and flat..The picture above is one example of wire mold. Just be sure the opening is wide enough for your wires. I used a 2-piece product. You first staple/screw the base to a flat area, insert the wires, and then snap the cover on. Very nice stuff.


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## The New Guy

I'm guessing the drill through and run underneath method presents some complications?


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## llskis

The New Guy said:


> I'm guessing the drill through and run underneath method presents some complications?


I was trying to get a response somewhat more complex then that. It would be like me asking if I would be in the water what should I do to get back. Response would be to start swimming! I would have taken that for granted. Anyway there is a lot of different ways to
get wires through plywood. One example would be to drill bigger hole and run series of wires to that hole rather then individual holes. I also thinking of using a MTH #50-1014 terminal block. The wire channels is a good response that I never thought of. O well; still in the
engineering dept. now. 
Thanks; Larry


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## flyernut

llskis said:


> I was trying to get a response somewhat more complex then that. It would be like me asking if I would be in the water what should I do to get back. Response would be to start swimming! I would have taken that for granted. Anyway there is a lot of different ways to
> get wires through plywood. One example would be to drill bigger hole and run series of wires to that hole rather then individual holes. I also thinking of using a MTH #50-1014 terminal block. The wire channels is a good response that I never thought of. O well; still in the
> engineering dept. now.
> Thanks; Larry


Keep us posted as to what you finally come up with.You might have a better idea than what has been described. We can all learn new things...


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## llskis

Here are a few pictures of my project. Still waiting for more A/A Panels and track. This is
just a preview as I am still in the "engineering state" now. Plywood will be covered with
the non shedding grass mat. Please note the radius difference between the A/A Pikemaster Track and the S-Trax (With the original A/F radius) Comments always welcome. Thanks and Happy New Year- Larry


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## dave1905

Occam's razor.


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## The New Guy

llskis said:


> I was trying to get a response somewhat more complex then that.


It wasn't a suggestion, but a query of circumstances ruling out the simplest approach.



dave1905 said:


> Occam's razor.


Indeed.


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## flyernut

Are you sure you want to use the "non-shedding" grass-mat. Been there done that. Totally not amused with the results. In fact, I tore down my whole layout,12'x12', and started over again. What I did this time was to paint the entire layout platform with a a nice grass-like green paint.. Or some guys use indoor-outdoor carpeting. My dad used it on his G scale layout and it worked out very nicely.


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## llskis

flyernut said:


> Are you sure you want to use the "non-shedding" grass-mat. Been there done that. Totally not amused with the results. In fact, I tore down my whole layout,12'x12', and started over again. What I did this time was to paint the entire layout platform with a a nice grass-like green paint.. Or some guys use indoor-outdoor carpeting. My dad used it on his G scale layout and it worked out very nicely.


flyernut: Need your opinion: what is wrong with the "non-shedding" grass-mat? What are
the pros/cons? Also: I want to thank everybody for all their comments. Larry


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## flyernut

llskis said:


> flyernut: Need your opinion: what is wrong with the "non-shedding" grass-mat? What are
> the pros/cons? Also: I want to thank everybody for all their comments. Larry


I believe the glue will deteriorate over time, and the non-shedding feature will start shedding JMO.


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## llskis

Got the Non-shedding grass mat in and installed. Did not glue; used staples which should
be strong enough since this is not a "portable" layout. What makes it nice is that it is based on a standard 8 X 4 piece of plywood. My plywood was finished on one side; bought at Home Depot for $22. No trimming involved. Now to the next phase: Fighting with those old
"All Aboard" panels.  Larry Pictures below of table.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

I'm still stumped....why not drill through the plywood and run them under the structure? Is that not a possibility?


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## llskis

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> I'm still stumped....why not drill through the plywood and run them under the structure? Is that not a possibility?


N/B/F: Plywood is sitting flat on a real nice table. Do not want to drill through the table!
Just looking to do some "hiding of the wires". Have some idea's; will work it out. Also do not
want to make some type of box to fit in between plywood and table. Trying to make this
project as simple as possible. Thanks for the comments. Larry


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## flyernut

One last suggestion.. You can buy round black pvc wire covering at any auto parts store, it comes on a reel so you can buy what you need, and it comes in different diameters. The small diameter stuff just might look good.If you don't know what I'm talking about, just pop your hood on your car/truck, and you'll see the wire covering. It will be black, split so you can add wires,and very flexible.


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## The New Guy

llskis said:


> N/B/F: Plywood is sitting flat on a real nice table. Do not want to drill through the table!


Route a 1/8 dado 1/8 deep down the center line. You could then use a circular saw to cut perpendicular dado's curf wide to run the feeders through.


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## llskis

Thanks again for all the nice idea's. Trying to make this project as simple as possible
and not to take too much time to do it. My carpentry skills are light years behind some of
the other members on this forum. AFA "hiding wires" I will use MTH #50-1014 terminal block.
This will as least condense the wires to a certain area. I then can camauflage it with some
type of building and other accessorys. Anyway thanks again; picture below is my starting point as I got to make sure the panels are straight and rails ready. If I'm boring you guys
let me know. Larry
P.S. We are getting hit real hard with "Mother Nature" today in Illinois; road becoming very
risky. Good day to do some train work and watch football.


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## llskis

Ok; progressing slowly as a lot of the layout is still in "engineering" dept. Laid out some
A/F accessorys on the "All Aboard" panels. This is going to be a wirering nitemare to
hide them. Will do a lot of under panel work and use MTH wirering block. Once done still
have to work on the outer loop. Larry P.S. Finding out that the All Aboard concept from A/F
is a very nice idea but was made very cheap. Maybe someone in the future will design another modular system to fit the standard size plywood sheets. Picture below.Comments welcome.


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## llskis

Just a little update in case anybodys interested. Comming a long well. Have the A/A panels
in the middle make hiding the wires easy. Also can not say enough about MTH wireing blocks;makes for a neat hookup process. OK; here it is. Larry
P.S. As you can see; still a lot more to do. Two #16 Rectiformers (DC) will power the trains and One #19B(AC)
will handle all the accessorys.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Can you post a photo of these MTH wiring blocks, I'm unfamiliar with these. Maybe even a photo of them in use??


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## llskis

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> Can you post a photo of these MTH wiring blocks, I'm unfamiliar with these. Maybe even a photo of them in use??


N/B/F:
Ok; more wireing today; very tedious. Can only do it so long before you need a drink! Did get
the outer loop running with the #16 DC Rectiformer; Atlanta ran real nice; will try a bigger engine tomorrow. Enclosed is picture of MTH wireing block; would recommend these to anybody with big wireing job. Larry


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Cool...thanks.


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## llskis

Just a little update and a couple of pictures. Still a lot more to do with more and
more wireing. (Will it ever end) Everything coming along well; doing a little at a time.
Just a few of my observations:

1) All aboard set in the middle runs OK but nothing to brag about; made very cheap
and not made for all engines. Engines got to be "set" just right to compensate for the
sharper radius. But I will admit they do look nice; a lot better than a set just running on a 
a flat board. Putting A/F accessorys on the panels also enhance it. 

2) After "testing" the outer loop with several type engines it seems to me that the late
40's engines run the best. My 332 Northern just seems to be better quality than the 336's.
Not to say that the 336 is bad but not quite the same at the 332. Factory side rails for the
late 40's engines are better quility than the 50's. Yes I know there where some nice newer
ideas in the 50's like built in horns/knuckle couplers/pull more tires and etc. 

3) I'm sure most of this forum know I favor DC than AC and it has not changed since starting this little layout. 

4) Comments are always welcome; like to have some other ideas. Larry:thumbsup:


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## flyernut

Looks good...


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