# wiring multiple lock-ons



## Ohio027 (Dec 29, 2012)

OK, summer is over, the MG is put away and it's time to blow the dust off the layout and get to work. First step was to wire multiple (4) lock-ons to a terminal block, then wire the block to the transformer (a 1033). well, that apparently doesn't work, though I have no idea why. Do I need a pre-wired block with positive and negative wires built-in? Any other suggestions to wire multiple lock-ons so I don't have a million wires on the back of the transformer?


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## TrainLarry (Jan 15, 2012)

Is your track dead, or does the circuit breaker trip? Study your setup and make sure each lockon is wired similarly back to the transformer. You may need jumpers between sets of terminals to distribute the power to the entire terminal block.

Larry


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## Ohio027 (Dec 29, 2012)

Larry,

ah. that's what I did wrong. I wired all the #1 lockon wires on one side of the block, all the #2 connections on the other, then ran wires to the respective terminals on the transformer. I assumed that all the terminals on the block were internally connected, which apparently they are not. Don't they make blocks that are wired that way (all terminals internally connected)?


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

Give us a little more info on your problem. You can daisy chain the lockons, just make sure 1 goes to 1, 2 to 2 all the way down. 

The 1033 is a nice transformer, just remember you have 90 watts to work with.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Actually, with the 1033, you have more like 70 watts to work with, the 90 watts is the input power. You have to figure the efficiency of the transformer, and also at lower throttle settings, you have a lot less power, nature of the beast.


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## Ohio027 (Dec 29, 2012)

So with a 1033, I have a limit for the number of lockons I can wire to it? I thought extra lockons just distributed the available power more evenly. I currently have two lockons and three 022 switches on my layout, with three loops of track. I have a couple of slow spots, especially on one of the loops which doesn't have a lockon. 

I'm sensing I'm at my limit for a 1033.


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## Don Trinko (Oct 23, 2012)

Power is limited, You can hook as many lockons together as you like. Making sure of course that they are all connected correctly and you do not have a short. Don


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## TrainLarry (Jan 15, 2012)

The transformer capacity limits how much current can be drawn continuously, like running trains and having lighted cars or accessories at the same time. Switches use current momentarily, so they do not load the transformer continuously. You can hook up as many lockons as you want; they do not draw any power, they just distibute it.

Larry


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## Ohio027 (Dec 29, 2012)

OK, that's what I thought about the lockons. I guess I will daisy-chain the lockons to the block so there are only one pair of connections, then jump those with wires to the transformer. As always, thanks for the help everyone!


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

I run two modern era locos on my 1033's at the same time. You have to watch the accessories. They can add up.


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## Lynn D Bennett (Jul 27, 2013)

Ohio027:

I have no idea what terminal strip you used but most transfer connectivity from one side to the other and each pair is isolated from all the others. The terminal block you want to use is the MTH 50-1014. It has two terminal strips that allow all the black wires from the lock-ons to be connected to it and another terminal strip on the other side that allow all the red wires from the lock-ons to be connected to it. Internally all the blacks are jumper'ed together and all the reds are jumper'ed together. They terminate in a signal banana plug for red and a single banana plug for black that you wire to your power source.

You should be using enough lock-ons so that long section of track between switches are lock-on powered. The more lock-ons the better. They assure connectivity and reduce reliance on the track connectivity. A section that is down on power needs its own lock-on.

Be sure you observe the color polarity throughout all connection to the track and the terminal block.

The resistance of the wires and the track rails determines how much power is delivered to the trains and how much is lost in the wires and the track connections. Both have resistance and reduce the voltage to the trains. So wires between the lock-ons in a normal sized layout should be 16 gauge and in very large layouts with long runs several sizes bigger yet (maybe even 14 gauge or in a worst case situation 12 gauge). The larger size of the wires reduces the wire resistance.

LDBennett


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

The terminal block is one good way to distribute the powe, then there is my way.

I twist all the wires from one side together, hit them with the soldering iron, tape it if needed and on to the next.

My table is 23" from the floor, so nobody can see the wires. I many cases, I staple the wires apart from each other so they can't touch. In others, I use liquid electrical tape.

I've never had a failure or short.


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## Lynn D Bennett (Jul 27, 2013)

Dave Sams:

But suppose you did have a short and you needed to isolate lock-on track sections to determine where the short was in the layout. Imagine the inconvenience of isolating one of your lock-on wires then having to reconnect it all back together.

With the terminal block you can disconnect them and reconnect them one at a time with the turn of a screw driver.

Wiring with maintenance in mind I think is better than just making it all work. But we all get to choose.

LDBennett


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

Lynn D Bennett said:


> Dave Sams:
> 
> But suppose you did have a short and you needed to isolate lock-on track sections to determine where the short was in the layout. Imagine the inconvenience of isolating one of your lock-on wires then having to reconnect it all back together.
> 
> ...


I must live a charmed life, it has never happened to me.


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## BigAl56 (Dec 14, 2011)

Can you be more specific on what you mean by, "it doesn't work"?


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## Ohio027 (Dec 29, 2012)

That's exactly the type of terminal block I wanted, but couldn't find it at the local radio shack or home improvement store. And yes, I wired the terminal block I had all wrong--I didn't realize each pair of terminals was isolated from the others. Electrically challenged, I guess.

Now that I know about the MTH block, that's what I'm gonna use. Run all my lockons the block with 16 gauge wire, then two wires to the 1033. 

My layout is L-shaped (long side is 8 x 4 ft., short side is 5 x 5 ft.) with three connected loops. I figure four lockons for the outside loop, three each for the secondary and inner loops. I might jump a couple together to limit the amount of wire going to the block. I have 20 gauge solid wire to do that, but that sounds too small, so I'll go up to 16 gauge.


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

Lynn D Bennett said:


> Dave Sams:
> 
> But suppose you did have a short and you needed to isolate lock-on track sections to determine where the short was in the layout. Imagine the inconvenience of isolating one of your lock-on wires then having to reconnect it all back together.
> 
> ...


I thought someone would jump in, but not.

If you have 4 lockons on a section, and there is a short, disconnecting one wire at a terminal block won't isolate the short, as the short will affect the entire section. Also, you can just disconnect the wire at the lockon if you really want to.

I hope this helps some of the newbies.

Lastly, if you have 2 remote switches with #1145 bulbs you are using 5 watts per pair. #53 use 3.4 watts which can add up. I have a total of 8 pair, which could use 40 watts if they were all on the same transformer (which they are not).

Have fun kids


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## Lynn D Bennett (Jul 27, 2013)

So what's easier:

Sit in front of the terminal board and individually disconnect each section one at a time

or

Crawl all over the layout disconnecting the lock-on wires one at a time

I spent a lifetime working in electronic systems both designing them and trouble shooting them. Organization of the wiring is key to fast quick easy fixes of problems. It makes chasing the wiring easier. It makes finding the wires at termination points easier. It makes trouble shooting easier. Having accurate wiring diagrams also reduces down time while chasing a problem in wiring. The products I worked on went on carriers, went on Navy ships, went to Venus and into space.

But we all get to choose how we wire our layout. Do it any way you are happy with. I like documentation and organization, but that's just me.

LDBennett


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Ohio027 said:


> That's exactly the type of terminal block I wanted, but couldn't find it at the local radio shack or home improvement store. And yes, I wired the terminal block I had all wrong--I didn't realize each pair of terminals was isolated from the others. Electrically challenged, I guess.
> 
> Now that I know about the MTH block, that's what I'm gonna use. Run all my lockons the block with 16 gauge wire, then two wires to the 1033.
> 
> My layout is L-shaped (long side is 8 x 4 ft., short side is 5 x 5 ft.) with three connected loops. I figure four lockons for the outside loop, three each for the secondary and inner loops. I might jump a couple together to limit the amount of wire going to the block. I have 20 gauge solid wire to do that, but that sounds too small, so I'll go up to 16 gauge.



Are all the lockons newer ones?

For a layout that size I don't know why you would even need so many lockons.:dunno:
But I guess the more the merrier.

You know you don't even need the lockons? Just bring the wire up from the bottom and solder them to the rail. 
If you don't want to solder the rail. Get an old soup can and cut little squares, solder the wire on the cut piece and just slip it up under the rails into the slot in the rail. They fit nice and tight. 
A little dot of solder makes it even better.


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## Lynn D Bennett (Jul 27, 2013)

MTH's DSC manual recommends a lock-on (or wiring connection) every 25 linear feet. That's one loop around a 4 x 8 bench top. I use more than that (four on two 4 x 8 bench tops side by side) and I have no dead spots. The Signal test in the DCS controller shows 10 out of 10 all around my layout. I would think that if the signal strength is that good so is the AC connections since the signal rides on the AC.

LDBennett


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## Ohio027 (Dec 29, 2012)

I have a two lockons connected now, both on the outer loop. I have a still have a slow spot on the outer loop furthest from the transformer, and the secondary loop is very slow. The inner loop seems fine. I will double-check the track connections too and fix any gaps. I did order one of those MTH terminal blocks, so the wiring will be taken care of.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Make sure your connections are tight and the track is clean. Then add more lockons to the trouble areas. Hard to tell how much track is it powering?


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

A little quality time with a good set of track pliers will do wonders for slow spots. When I notice a slow spot, squeezing the track at the joints does wonders. But, realize, curves can cause a train to slow down. I have a lot of 27" curves and the trains bog down.

One of my sections has larger diameter curves, 100% soldered. The train slows in the curves.

If your track is not new, you are about guaranteed to have loose pins.

My LHS turned me onto the pliers.

Others here will tell you to slightly bend your pins.


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## Ohio027 (Dec 29, 2012)

Just got my MTH terminal block. Got my pliers, my wire, and I'm ready to go this weekend. I'll let you all know how it comes out--and thanks again for the advice!


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