# Atlas track questions



## pilot2fly (Nov 14, 2016)

Hi all,

I'm very new to model railroading. I want to do a 4×6 DC N scale layout due to limited space. 

I looked at E Z track and Atlas track. Atlas seems like the more cost effective solution. I do have some questions though.

I dont want to solder power wires if I done have to. Could I just put the Atlas track together and plug in the train controller to the feeder track? Or does every piece of Atlas track require wiring for power? Also, I know the Code differences relate to rail height. Is any one code of track better than the other?


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Bachmann EZ track limits you to the radii and
accessories made only by them. It is, however
easy to set up and you do have special track
power connection sections available.

It's not clear what type of Atlas track you were
considering.

The most desirable is Atlas flex. It comes
in 3 foot sections that you can curve or cut
as dictated by your track design.

Sectional track, such as also made by Atlas 
is easy to use but the many joiners can 
be a source of poor electrical continuity.

It is best to solder the track feed to the rails.
Soldering is not that difficult and a few practice
sessions can make you proficient enuf to solder
to your tracks.

Don


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## pilot2fly (Nov 14, 2016)

Hi Don,

Thanks for your reply. Very helpful! I was looking at some of the N scale Atlas snap track in code 80


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Pilot -- Atlas Snap Track is their low end, intro level track. There's nothing wrong with the basic pieces, as long as you get ones with nickel silver rail, but the turnouts are decidedly less than good. Of course, the EZ track ones aren't any better.

Of course you have the option to just connect the wires to you powerpack and the terminal track. The little metal joiners that connect the track pieces will carry the current through your entire layout...if you're lucky. A small 4x6 like you contemplate is unlikely to have any major issues doing this. It's not a sure bet, though, and crud can get down into the joiners and interfere with good power flow. So your best bet is to solder the joints. You don't have to, though. It just adds an extra measure of reliability.


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

You might also look into Kato Unitrack.
They have a good selection of N gauge track and controls.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Track types*



pilot2fly said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I'm very new to model railroading. I want to do a 4×6 DC N scale layout due to limited space.
> 
> ...


pilot2fly;
There are basically three general types of track available commercially. Flex track, sectional track, and roadbed track. For a permanent railroad I recommend flex track. It's the least expensive, per foot, of the three types and since it is flexible, it can be used as straight track, or be bent to any desired curvature.

The track codes you mentioned are the height of the rail in 1000ths of an inch, Thus code 80 rail is 80/1000ths" high, and code 55 rail is 55/1000ths" high. Track codes are mostly about realistic appearance. Trains will generally run well on either track code. Scaled up to full size code 80 rail would be about one foot high! That's way bigger than any rail ever used on a real railroad. Also the tie length and spacing is not very realistic. On my N-scale railroad, I use Micro-Engineering's beautifully realistic-looking code 55 flex track for all the visible track on the layout. However, in my hidden staging yard I use Atlas code 80 flex track. It doesn't look as good, but it works just as well, and costs less than the Micro-Engineering flex track.
I happen to build my own turnouts (track switches) but the few commercial turnouts I have are all Peco brand code 55 turnouts. They are excellent, and I highly recommend them.

However, since you are new, and may want to just "plug-and-play" with different track arrangements, then sectional, or roadbed, track may be a better choice; at least for now. Atlas sectional or Kato "Unitrack" roadbed track would work for temporary track arrangements.

When you get a definite track plan established, and are ready to lay track more permanently, then I get back to flex track, AND soldering feeder wires. 
Rail joiners do not make very good permanent electrical connectors. Soldered wires do. For more information on track types. wiring, and lots of other model railroading stuff, you may want to check out the files below. A good book on the subject is "Getting Started in Model Railroading" by Jeff Wilson. It covers all the basics quite well. You can order a copy from https://kalmbachhobbystore.com/products/books .

Have fun!

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:

View attachment Where do I start (revised version).pdf


View attachment Model Railroad Terminology 2.2.pdf


View attachment MODEL RAILROADING ON A BUDGET.pdf


View attachment All AboutTurnouts.pdf


View attachment 1 How to build a better first layout.pdf


View attachment 2 How to build a better first layout.pdf


View attachment 3 & 4 How to build a better first layout.pdf


View attachment 5 How to build a better first layout.pdf


View attachment 6 How to build a better first layout.pdf


View attachment N-scale cars for sale.pdf


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## pilot2fly (Nov 14, 2016)

Thanks for all the help everyone. This has been a great learning experience. I'm going to go with the Atlas code 55 flex track. Very excited!


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