# Ed's> CNJ Switching Shanty's build thread..



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

*Some know I am a big fan of the largest little RR that used to be, the old CNJ. (Jersey Central Lines):thumbsup:

So this was a must have for me!

I purchased 2 CNJ switching shanty's from Andre.

Andre's site, River Leaf Models.
http://riverleafmodels.us/product/cnj-switching-shanty/

For those who don't know the whole ideal for making these up for sale is from the hard work that Don F is doing to a real old CNJ switching shanty found and saved for history out in Pa.
Read about it here,

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=75146

I hope that some of my $$$ went to his cause?


I had some ideals but I was also inspired by josef (now walter) thread on his CNJ shanty build. It pushed me to get some as I was putting getting some off.
His build,

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=86073


I am building one right now and figured a thread would be nice. I am waiting for some items to come in so I can finish it.
I have a pot belly stove but I don't like the look of it inside the shanty. So I have to more coming to me.
I have numerous items to add to the inside and outside the shanty. And have a few more coming.
So I will have to wait. As will this thread, I will add as I go along. I just wanted to get a thread started.

I will add a few pictures of where I am at in the next post.

*


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

*To get the thread rolling, I will start here.

Here is what you get from Andre.








No instructions are included with the kit.
Instead Andre has a resource page that has instructions for his models kits.

Here is the pdf page Andre has for the Shanty,
*
http://riverleafmodels.us/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/Switching-Shanty.pdf


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## walter (Jan 31, 2014)

Your going to enjoy building this kit. Be interesting to watch and see pictures of your progress.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

*

























Here is where I am at now.
Since Don F is still working on the real ones door I am too.

One note on the door in this kit. I was trying to think of a way to actually open and shut on some sort of hinge. I asked Don in his build thread which way the door really opened in or out on the real one. He really did not know.
You would think that they would have opened to the outside as you would have more room in the inside?

josef/ (now walter) made his door open in. He left out the floor on his model to do this, he also moved the solid wall piece to a different spot. I am guessing for the stove installation?
His thread,
*
*http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=86073 

If you look at the picture of mine with the door off you can see the floor lip, so the only way mine can open is towards the outside, otherwise you would have to trim the door because of the floor lip.

I added the CNJ over the door, I CAN'T GET THE J STRAIGHT! I TRIED TWICE! :goofball:
Maybe on the second shanty I will have better luck.hwell:

For now I glued on a little tab up top to hold the door from falling in and it is just sitting free in place. You can see the little tab in the second picture under the CNJ.
It will stay like that so I can remove the door if needed. 
I can rest it in the open position to the outside if I want.
I am still trying to think of a way to make it swing open and shut.
And the door screamed for a Lady Liberty. I have many CNJ's decals. I even have a sheet of dry transfer CNJ decals I found. I forgot all about them. :thumbsup:
The one on the door is a wet decal.

I asked Andre if one could keep the windows nice and new looking as his shown on his site were weathered. Well the luck I have always had when gluing something like windows I will have no choice but to weather them.
I suck at putting windows in! I always have had a problem not making them messy from glue!
You can't see the glue on them in this picture but it is there, I will weather them.hwell:
You see the glue on the door too, for some reason the frame did not cooperate when gluing it on? 
Edit, I see from the picture that the door window frame is crooked! I will try to fix that.

This whole thing needs some weathering yet, I will hide the oops with the weathering.
I painted this with some paint I had, I used what was labeled the color Mineral. It is a close match to concrete, and with some weathering applied, I think it will look good. 
Edit again,
What do some use to weather the acetate winds?

I am toying with the ideal to drill a new hole for the stove pipe. Mine will sit back by the solid wall piece, straight back from the door opening and I think would look better coming straight up or out the back wall?
The hole that comes pre-drilled on the top center in the kit might get some sort of roof vent instead?
This is where I am at right now.
*


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

*My glue oops.

























Maybe I can just weather them with more glue oops?

Some sort of look like cob webs and dust in the picture? 

If I worked at it, I might be able to spread the glue out with a toothpick to form cob webs.

Note, the camera seems to exaggerate some of the glue marks from what you actually see with the naked eye. 
The first picture shows the one that stands out the most to the naked eye, that is my fingermarks you see.
*


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## c.midland (Sep 22, 2015)

Looks pretty good to me. 

Windows are my nemesis as well. If the windows are oversized and glued in from the inside I can offer a few tips. The most important things to do is sand the edges of the plastic that can't be seen from the outside, and be prepared to clamp or weight them down for at least 8 hours. I use Titebond wood glue and a small brush. Sanding the edges of the plastic window is the key to getting a good bond.

I like using super glue for buildings such as yours, just to get the look that your structure has. I think your windows look great and much more realistic than if they were spotless. I'm guessing that the guy whose job it was to work in there probably used his sleeve or handkerchief to clean the grime off the windows in real life.


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## walter (Jan 31, 2014)

Looking good.
If I may. I left the bottom form piece off, since I wanted the door open to see interior. Since the bottom piece is to helps form and hold the sides in place while glue dries. I only glued the top, ceiling piece in place. Once glue set, removed bottom piece. Since the base is really the floor.
As to wall placement, I used pictures which were posted. Standing in doorway, to left were 2 window walls, a solid wall, then 3 more window walls going to right, (or 3 window walls from right to a solid wall).
As to how I glue or attach window material, I put a drop of, usually super glue, on a piece glossy paper, then use a pin, or toothpick to dip into glue, ( I also use a toothpick to spread wood glue onto the wood pieces). Holding window material in place, and running pin along side. Capillary action does the rest.
To keep finger prints etc. of window material, I just use surgical rubber gloves when handling. Cheap.
If your just temporarily attaching door, a dab of rubber cement works great. That's what I did, comes off and may hinge it in future.
Again, looking good.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

walter said:


> Looking good.
> If I may. I left the bottom form piece off, since I wanted the door open to see interior. Since the bottom piece is to helps form and hold the sides in place while glue dries. I only glued the top, ceiling piece in place. Once glue set, removed bottom piece. Since the base is really the floor.
> As to how I glue or attach window material, I put a drop of, usually super glue, on a piece glossy paper, then use a pin, or toothpick to dip into glue, ( I also use a toothpick to spread wood glue onto the wood pieces). Holding window material in place, and running pin along side. Capillary action does the rest.
> To keep finger prints etc. of window material, I just use surgical rubber gloves when handling. Cheap.
> ...


You may.
I wish you would have told me all that before hand.

Well I do have another to build.

Hmm, rubber glue sounds good.
Just a little dab would do it.

Another way would have been for Andre to make two little knobs on the door, one on the top and one on the bottom. And two holes, one in the base and one in the roof pieces.
I could have just popped the door in the holes to swing it open and shut.
It would have had to open to the outside, which I think is better anyway to save space inside.
As you did I am putting things inside, gluing the door shut blocks their view.

The solid panel on yours, was that an oops or did you want it there?
In the instructions it said to place the solid panel at the 4th position as I did and it is on the opposite side of where the door is.
Was that an oops?


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

very nice build ...
can't get this kind of detail normally in HO, I'm envious


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## walter (Jan 31, 2014)

Big Ed said:


> You may.
> 
> 
> The solid panel on yours, was that an oops or did you want it there?
> ...


Were I placed the solid wall, is were its at on the original, (using and looking at the photos that have been posted) standing in doorway, looking inside, starting from your right, going counter clockwise, panel 1,2, 3, and 4 are window panels, the 5th is solid, then 6, 7, are window panels, and then the doorway your standing in, panel #8. Check out the picture of the real shanty and you will see my counting and how I placed the windows and solid panels. As to making door hinge, here's a trick I've used, a thin strip of Duck Tape, super glued to door and frame, then worked to create a crease after dry, and painted to match door and frame. Small pinheads make great doorknobs.
As to there being many of these, I'm sure the placement of the walls may also be dictated and arranged as to trackage and viewing of same from within.
Add: As to inside, I drew with a pencil, light line, and after painting and dusting, I glued the stove and piping in place. I glued everything else to walls before gluing base to structure.


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

I have seen a few threads on Andre’s shanty, but didn’t know I needed one until I saw this thread. Looks nice and the dimensions are just right to tuck in next to the track.

I too have had my problems with windows. Just a little too much CA will give you some dirty/cloudy windows. About 6 months ago I started using Testors Clear Parts Cement & Window Maker (3515CT). Even if you get a bit of the Testors on the clear part, it doesn’t show up too much.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

walter said:


> Were I placed the solid wall, is were its at on the original, (using and looking at the photos that have been posted) standing in doorway, looking inside, starting from your right, going counter clockwise, panel 1,2, and 3 are window panels, the 4th is solid, then 5, 6, are window panels, and then the doorway your standing in. Check out the picture of the real shanty and you will see my counting and how I placed the windows and solid panels. As to making door hinge, here's a trick I've used, a thin strip of Duck Tape, super glued to door and frame, then worked to create a crease after dry, and painted to match door and frame. Small pinheads make great doorknobs.
> As to there being many of these, I'm sure the placement of the walls may also be dictated and arranged as to trackage and viewing of same from within.
> Add: As to inside, I drew with a pencil, light line, and after painting and dusting, I glued the stove and piping in place. I glued everything else to walls before gluing base to structure.


Dang it your right!
I read the instructions wrong and I guess didn't look at his picture.

For some reason I read the forth panel over from the first window panel.
I see now it is clearly said in the instructions, OH well I guess it is too late to take it apart and replace it!?

You wrote this wrong?

standing in doorway, looking inside, starting from your right, going counter clockwise, panel 1,2, and 3 are window panels, the 4th is solid, then 5, 6, are window panels, and then the doorway your standing in.

You forgot the 7th panel.

Should be,
standing in doorway, looking inside, starting from your right, going counter clockwise, panel 1,2, and 3 *& 4* are window panels, the 5th is solid, 6 & 7 are windows then the door is the 8th spot.

But regardless I am wrong! Shoot!

It says in the instructions, going to the left and counting the door, it is the 4th panel over, right where yours is.
For some reason I counted 4 spots starting at the first window spot.


Oh well, I got one of the first shanty's they made and after that the switch men complained about the panel being opposite of the door. 
So they moved it to where it is now to keep all the switch men happy.


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## walter (Jan 31, 2014)

Big Ed said:


> Dang it your right!
> I read the instructions wrong and I guess didn't look at his picture.
> 
> For some reason I read the forth panel over from the first window panel.
> ...


LOL, Thanks, I lost counting walls, I did forget the 7 wall. I should have as original, started from doorway to left, clockwise. Doorway is 1st.
Like you said, 1st shanty the crew received, and improvement made. Then again, it may well fit the area covered on your trackage as seen by the crew from inside. 
But overall, great job, looks good. Really
Added: I'm going back to correct it, so no one else gets mixed up. Thanks for the heads up.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Looks good Ed! At least you don't have stairs.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Impressive ed Windows and all!


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

Big Ed, I tend to agree with c.midland about the windows. They look very realistic as is. If you were to weather or dull them more you would not be able to see inside at all. Maybe take a Qtip and dap the glue mark with a little grey powder and make it look like a grease smudge.

Are you going to install a single light inside? 

Thanks for posting this. I have two of Andre's models yet to build and I'll learn some good techniques here between you and Walter.


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## walter (Jan 31, 2014)

Big Ed said:


> I have a pot belly stove but I don't like the look of it inside the shanty. So I have to more coming to me.
> 
> 
> [/B]


As to Pot Belly stove, I picked this one and bought several more for future. Its for a Caboose interior. I daily check E-Bay under "O" gauge for "detail" and 1/4 or 1/48 Doll House items for future up grade of interior of buildings or other plans in the future.


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## PatKn (Jul 14, 2015)

Nice job Ed. As the modeler, you always notice things that no one else notices. Thanks for posting.


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## Don F (Dec 5, 2015)

I just saw this thread, as I've been quite busy on the real one. These shanties were made for many uses, and had as many window door and blank wall options as there are walls. I've seen some with no windows, as they were used as out houses with two hoppers back to back, and it doesn't appear that there is a partition; just like the old military bathrooms. Modesty only allows one to hold out for so long, but when ya gotta go!
I'm looking forward to getting my two, but that won't be for a while yet, as our treasurer was out of town for two weeks. I plan to use wood filler on all the joints, as the prototype is a monolithic structure, no seams anywhere, including the roof. I'm also going to make a custom raised panel for the door to match the one I made for the prototype. Mine will be empty inside, as I plan to put them on a flat car. 
Don


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## Bill Webb (Sep 14, 2015)

Really nice job on this.

Micro Mark makes a product called PSA which is exceptional for windows. It is way better than anything else I have tried and is at least twice as fast. Minimal mess on Windows if any. Finished the last building with 20 windows and one spot... I got impatient and was dumb.

Reasonably priced too.


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## Don F (Dec 5, 2015)

Big Ed said:


> *Some know I am a big fan of the largest little RR that used to be, the old CNJ. (Jersey Central Lines):thumbsup:
> 
> So this was a must have for me!
> 
> ...


Ed, thank you for supporting our fundraiser. Andre sent me an e mail this afternoon confirming your contribution.


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## Don F (Dec 5, 2015)

For those who haven't seen the thread on North America Real Trains, here are two pics of the shanty; first is from 1982 second is from 2016.
Don


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Don, if you look close at your pictures the roof almost looks like it has seams?
I hear you on the wood putty, I see spots where mine can use it.

The solid panel in the wrong spot, I like it better there, maybe subconsciously I made the mistake on purpose? 

Tell me, was there a hole in the roof for the vent when they made these? Or do you think if it is there was it done after they got it?


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Wood said:


> Big Ed, I tend to agree with c.midland about the windows. They look very realistic as is. If you were to weather or dull them more you would not be able to see inside at all. Maybe take a Qtip and dap the glue mark with a little grey powder and make it look like a grease smudge.
> 
> Are you going to install a single light inside?
> 
> Thanks for posting this. I have two of Andre's models yet to build and I'll learn some good techniques here between you and Walter.


I don't know, a light would be nice, but maybe a real dim light would be better. Simulating an oil or kerosene lamp.

I am going to fool around with the windows yet.

I had no time to do anything this week.
I put in 50 hours in 4 days this week.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Bill Webb said:


> Really nice job on this.
> 
> Micro Mark makes a product called PSA which is exceptional for windows. It is way better than anything else I have tried and is at least twice as fast. Minimal mess on Windows if any. Finished the last building with 20 windows and one spot... I got impatient and was dumb.
> 
> Reasonably priced too.



Pressure Sensitive Adhesive
http://www.micromark.com/liquid-psa-4-oz-applicator-bottle,9713.html

$14.35 a bottle, 4 oz. plus shipping. 

I wonder what the shelf life is after you open it to use?
Sounds like the stuff to use on windows.:thumbsup:


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Don, do you know what these are?


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## Patrick1544 (Apr 27, 2013)

Looks great ED! If you want to 'hinge' the door, you can use Photo Hinge tape. Its cloth adhesive tape . very strong but pliable. I use it all the time for mounting photos. You can get it in a good Art Supply store, such as Pearl Paint, in NJ. I think Edison?


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## Don F (Dec 5, 2015)

Big Ed said:


> Don, do you know what these are?
> 
> View attachment 201769


Ed,
The two metal brackets were for the phone and electric wires. There were insulators on these at one time. Not sure what the other one was for.
Don


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## Don F (Dec 5, 2015)

Big Ed said:


> Don, if you look close at your pictures the roof almost looks like it has seams?
> I hear you on the wood putty, I see spots where mine can use it.
> There are no seams on the roof, it probably looks like that because it's the high point.
> 
> ...


If the shanty was designated as needing a stove, then a hole was provided. Again, dependent on the customers' specifications.

Don


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Don F said:


> Ed,
> The two metal brackets were for the phone and electric wires. There were insulators on these at one time. Not sure what the other one was for.
> Don





Don F said:


> If the shanty was designated as needing a stove, then a hole was provided. Again, dependent on the customers' specifications.
> 
> Don



OK, thanks Don.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Patrick1544 said:


> Looks great ED! If you want to 'hinge' the door, you can use Photo Hinge tape. Its cloth adhesive tape . very strong but pliable. I use it all the time for mounting photos. You can get it in a good Art Supply store, such as Pearl Paint, in NJ. I think Edison?



Thanks, I never heard of that.
I googled it.

I don't know if it would work on something so small?
Would I be able to attach and keep it hidden?

But another option to check out, Thanks.

I will have to ask around to see if anyone I know has a roll. All I need is a small piece.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Just fooling around shots.
Man the camera picks up stuff you can't see with the naked eye! Every little thing!


On the left side I have an ash pail and ash shovel and extra chair & a kerosene portable lamp sitting there. Old crank telephone on the wall, that needs paint touch up.
In the center I have the stove with a cooking pot & pan and coffee pot cooking on the stove.
I got white metal piping for the stove exhaust pipe inside, but could not get it to work in there. I used a small straw bent to shape instead. On top is a white metal T exhaust pipe.











On the right side on the desk I have a hurricane oil lamp, kerosene portable lamp, coke bottle & drinking cup. (you can't see the drinking cup too good.)












Outside I have a coal storage box to keep the stove going and an old lead bench for relaxation. With a pick, shovel, broom and axe hanging around. 
The axe is for protection, from *Old Hobo*'s.
The J! I redid it and now it is too close to the N!!:goofball:
I might axe the CNJ altogether! 
They are dry transfer decals and it is hard to put them on with the door frame glued in place. I should have done it right before I glued the frame in place.
Looking at it again, maybe I will move the C over towards the N? The C is easier to put on then the J. Maybe that would look OK? :dunno:










I got more stuff to add and I see now some touch up is needed and a different location to plant the shanty when I am done.
I did not weather anything yet.
I just wanted to post a few pictures, to see how it looks in a post.
I have to find a different setting on the camera, you can't see a lot that the camera is picking up.:dunno:


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## Don F (Dec 5, 2015)

It looks good Ed. Our kits are ordered, and I'm looking forward to getting my two. I also have the first mock-up before some changes were made, so that will be getting some modifications. 
Don


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

Big Ed, Very nice job. You have done a super job of constructing, modeling and sharing this project. Thank you. I learned a lot.


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## walter (Jan 31, 2014)

Excellent. Now that is one to put toward the front to admire. On the stove pipe, I used piece of sprue, (I save them from plastic models. Different sizes in length and thickness. Sanded to size), bent slightly in hot water. Then used a piece of shrink wrap for the angle to center and another sprue piece going straight out with a piece of shrink cut in half for top piece.
Looks good, especially the interior.


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## Tucgary (Sep 21, 2015)

VERY NICE Big Ed :appl: Excellent details.


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## Alexander (Apr 11, 2016)

Looking great, Big Ed!


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## c.midland (Sep 22, 2015)

Really like your building, especially the interior.


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## PatKn (Jul 14, 2015)

Beautiful job Ed. :thumbsup: It looks great. We are all over critical of our own work. The camera is a good tool to check your work. It shows every little flaw. I've caught a lot of things in my pictures that became small projects.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Thanks all.





Wood said:


> Big Ed, Very nice job. You have done a super job of constructing, modeling and sharing this project. Thank you. I learned a lot.


You learned what not to do huh? 



walter said:


> Excellent. Now that is one to put toward the front to admire. On the stove pipe, I used piece of sprue, (I save them from plastic models. Different sizes in length and thickness. Sanded to size), bent slightly in hot water. Then used a piece of shrink wrap for the angle to center and another sprue piece going straight out with a piece of shrink cut in half for top piece.
> Looks good, especially the interior.


Now you tell me. hwell: I have a box full too...somewhere, I looked around for something in my junk and didn't think of that. The straw worked OK, and the bent up look one sees in the picture, can't be seen at all even with my reading glasses on. The camera shows it! That is a straw off a can of air, they do bend good. 
I wonder how my cheap old flip phones camera would work, maybe I will try that.



PatKn said:


> Beautiful job Ed. :thumbsup: It looks great. We are all over critical of our own work. The camera is a good tool to check your work. It shows every little flaw. I've caught a lot of things in my pictures that became small projects.


Thanks, you are so right about the camera. I guess I have to try different settings for these close up pictures?
I think someone here explained how to take pictures like that.
I suck at taking a good picture, always have and I guess always will.

*One piece of advise I would give everyone building this is to put your stuff that you may want to add inside in when the roof is off.*
It is a pain in the arss putting them in with tweezers!
I wish I had thought of that beforehand, the next one I will do that.

Also save the "spruce" that holds the pieces, I made the desk out of that. The wood spruce can be good to make a bench.
Then what I have left goes into my part junk box. 
I don't throw anything away.

I will touch up, and put a little dirt on the outside and try taking the pictures again.
I am not done yet, just wanted to put some progress into the thread.

It won't be for a while as I don't even have time during the week to log on the site. Work, eat, sleep, work!
Today I have to go somewhere and have a load going to Vermont tomorrow.
So when I get home today it will be eat, sleep, then back to the work grind.
No time to play.


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## Guest (Jul 17, 2016)

Outstanding job, Ed. This shanty needs to be near the front so you and visitors can enjoy the details.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Country Joe said:


> Outstanding job, Ed. This shanty needs to be near the front so you and visitors can enjoy the details.


Thanks, I do have 2 of them for the layout.
The second one will go in the front as I should be learning from my mistakes.
I hope others planning on putting this together are learning from them also.

I didn't really plan on putting anything in it until I saw josef/ (now walter) 's thread on his shanty. Then the light bulb went off in my thread as I had a bag of items for years now to use. (sort of forgot I had them waiting to paint up) And I bought some more.
Most of my visitors are the occasional mouse that finds it's way into the dungeon and my spider army.
Maybe a spider will add some real details to the inside my windows with a few webs.
Maybe I can capture a tiny spider and lock it inside to make some tiny webs on the windows. Then spray a shot of hair spray on them to preserve them.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Interesting project you got there Ed!:smilie_daumenpos:


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## AG216 (Sep 28, 2011)

Great job Ed!
and thanks for the tips!
Andre.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I love all the interior detail, that's pretty cool. I do have one suggestion.


Big Ed said:


> Looking at it again, maybe I will move the C over towards the N? The C is easier to put on then the J. Maybe that would look OK? :dunno:


Have you considered smaller lettering? Those look too big, at least to me.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I love all the interior detail, that's pretty cool. I do have one suggestion.
> Have you considered smaller lettering? Those look too big, at least to me.


Yes.
I had smaller letters but ran out of the J so I used a larger set of letters trying to fix it.
I got to look through my decal supply and redo it.

I should have fixed it when the frame was off, now the lip of the roof gets in the way of putting on the dry transfer.

I have another ideal, I did get the sides of the door frame unglued, but the top is on there good. I don't want to break it.


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## Don F (Dec 5, 2015)

Big Ed said:


> Don, do you know what these are?
> 
> View attachment 201769


Ed, 
After looking at the photo again, It looks like the projection from the right side of the shanty is a light fixture. It may have had one of those glass mason jar looking covers, or something similar?
We have to try to identify everything, so as to be as close to prototypical as possible. 
Don


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Just a guess but tbe side rod thing looks wooden, maybe to put a lantern on. One of tbe top pipes is probably for a stove. It was cold in PA


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Don F said:


> Ed,
> After looking at the photo again, It looks like the projection from the right side of the shanty is a light fixture. It may have had one of those glass mason jar looking covers, or something similar?
> We have to try to identify everything, so as to be as close to prototypical as possible.
> Don





sjm9911 said:


> Just a guess but tbe side rod thing looks wooden, maybe to put a lantern on. One of tbe top pipes is probably for a stove. It was cold in PA


Whatever it is it could have been added on years later?
Maybe not prototypical at all?

I have a hurricane oil lamp on my desk. Along with a couple of portable lamps in the shanty. (and a coke bottle ) 
I doubt if they had a hurricane lamp in theirs.
I am not worried about being prototypical, I will add what I like to mine.

As they say, It is my RR.


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## Don F (Dec 5, 2015)

guess but tbe side rod thing looks wooden, maybe to put a lantern on. One of tbe top pipes is probably for a stove. It was cold in PA[/quote]

I took a closer look this morning when Nick and I were installing the desk, it's an LB connection for the conduit that fed the shanty. From a distance, it looks bigger, but it measures a bit over an inch wide, by about four inches long.
Don


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## Don F (Dec 5, 2015)

After I started to up load the photos, I realized this wasn't the North American Trains Forum. I tried to delete the photos, but I don't know how I guess. I'll put them in the correct place.
Don


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## Patrick1544 (Apr 27, 2013)

Very cool Ed. Love all the miniature details. You know me with details. Great job!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Thank you, but you are the detail man.:thumbsup:

I tried some white letters instead, I pried the frame off. It is just sitting there loose. I added a #1 to it, my second shanty will be #2, good enough, I am through with the dam CNJ over the door.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Don F said:


> After I started to up load the photos, I realized this wasn't the North American Trains Forum. I tried to delete the photos, but I don't know how I guess. I'll put them in the correct place.
> Don


I figured that you made a mistake but I don't mind.

Just go back and click edit
then advanced edit
then click the paper clip
then click manage attachments, that will open the box where you uploaded them.
you will see remove along each picture link, click on each remove.

They will be gone but you need to then go back to the post where the pictures links are and delete them out of the post.

No big deal if you just want to leave them there Don.


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