# 302 Problems trans versing turnouts



## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

For some reason my AF 302 stops when going through a turnout. The rc unit activates and the loco stops. I have to physically move the tender and train to a new spot on the tracks. When I disable the reverse unit so that it only goes forward, all is OK. I have cleaned the frog in the turnout but no change. I think that it is the e unit but I am not sure because it works fine except while in the turnout.:dunno:


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Make sure the axle contacts and wheels are clean on the tender?


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Broke, I have been having that happen also. I think it is track pin is dirty or just not making good connection. I can move the switch and kinda realign track with the switch and all is fine. Mine happens on the switch also. To make a better connection take a pair
of pliers and bend pin a little to the side. Or try a different piece of track before the switch. I do not know if your track is nailed down yet.

I am using one of those green scotch brite pads to clean the track. Clean the pins also. Top, bottom, and sides of the pins and bend them a bit.


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

mopac said:


> Broke, I have been having that happen also. I think it is track pin is dirty or just not making good connection. I can move the switch and kinda realign track with the switch and all is fine. Mine happens on the switch also. To make a better connection take a pair
> of pliers and bend pin a little to the side. Or try a different piece of track before the switch. I do not know if your track is nailed down yet.


Yes all is nailed down now. I did find an un-thought of problem also. I did not use rubber road beds or cork road bed and there is a slight difference in elevation between the turnouts and the lead in tracks. I don't think that this is the problem although. I will keep on trying...
i will post a photo of the test track after it stops snowing and I feel like going to the garage.


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## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

Generally the track and/or the wheels being dirty causes the tender to lose contact thru the switch causing the reverse unit to cycle. Even though the track and frog may look clean wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol 91%. Make sure the pins are tight and clean as mopac states and bend them out slightly before connecting them to other sections of track. Did you take the bottom cover plates off before installing them to check if the contacts for the regular or 2 train switch contacts were clean and tight? If the switch is already installed you can move the reg. and 2 train switch back and forth and see if that improves the connection. Also make sure the switch is set for reg. operation or else the switch will be power routing and only provide power to the track its set for. Make sure the tender trucks are not bent askew and all of the wheels are contacting the rail. You can try adding a thin cardboard template under the switch but mostly it's only required when using rubber roadbed. Try running the engine in the opposite direction and see what happens. The Atlantics and the Baldwin diesels are the most common engines to have problems thru switches due to their short wheelbase. Did I mention to clean the switch tracks squeaky clean? That's usually the #1 suspect with this problem. Hope this helps.


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## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

A couple of other things to check, if you end up taking the switch covers off the bottom there are a pair of sliding contacts next to the motor that controls power to the track the switch is set for. Make sure they are clean and the spring loaded plunger that locks the frog is working correctly. Another thing when cleaning the rails on the switch is to make sure the inside of the rail where the frog contacts the rail is clean. I think some where in a post flyernut made, he details how he refurbishes switches. Hopefully he chimes in and can confirm that.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

You're losing electrical contact somewhere entering the switch..From which direction are you losing contact?? Check your wheel gauging. There are de-railing plastic rails on one part of the switch. If your wheel spacing is incorrect and tight, your wheel COULD be riding up on that plastic rail, causing the pick-up wheels to lose contact with the rail. Make sure the frog is touching the rail tightly. You can increase the tension on the frog by stretching the spring inside the switch, under the switch covers. The frog should not swing freely, it should have tension on it. I've had this problem before..Depending on the direction when entering the frog, wheels rolling over the frog can make it move just a little, losing electrical contact, and causing a stall. This isn't a set of turn-outs I sold you, is it?? I don't remember if they were. If so, send them back and I'll replace/repair them.. Follow the advice they other good folks have stated, we can lick this problem...


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## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

Here is flyernut's post on repairing switches.http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=20700&highlight=flyer+switches. Lots of good information.


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

flyernut said:


> You're losing electrical contact somewhere entering the switch..From which direction are you losing contact?? Check your wheel gauging. There are de-railing plastic rails on one part of the switch. If your wheel spacing is incorrect and tight, your wheel COULD be riding up on that plastic rail, causing the pick-up wheels to lose contact with the rail. Make sure the frog is touching the rail tightly. You can increase the tension on the frog by stretching the spring inside the switch, under the switch covers. The frog should not swing freely, it should have tension on it. I've had this problem before..Depending on the direction when entering the frog, wheels rolling over the frog can make it move just a little, losing electrical contact, and causing a stall. This isn't a set of turn-outs I sold you, is it?? I don't remember if they were. If so, send them back and I'll replace/repair them.. Follow the advice they other good folks have stated, we can lick this problem...


No, what I have gotten from you are all fine as expected. Thanks for all the good advice!


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

cramden said:


> Generally the track and/or the wheels being dirty causes the tender to lose contact thru the switch causing the reverse unit to cycle. Even though the track and frog may look clean wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol 91%. Make sure the pins are tight and clean as mopac states and bend them out slightly before connecting them to other sections of track. Did you take the bottom cover plates off before installing them to check if the contacts for the regular or 2 train switch contacts were clean and tight? If the switch is already installed you can move the reg. and 2 train switch back and forth and see if that improves the connection. Also make sure the switch is set for reg. operation or else the switch will be power routing and only provide power to the track its set for. Make sure the tender trucks are not bent askew and all of the wheels are contacting the rail. You can try adding a thin cardboard template under the switch but mostly it's only required when using rubber roadbed. Try running the engine in the opposite direction and see what happens. The Atlantics and the Baldwin diesels are the most common engines to have problems thru switches due to their short wheelbase. Did I mention to clean the switch tracks squeaky clean? That's usually the #1 suspect with this problem. Hope this helps.


Some very good advice, some of which I have overlooked! Thanks:thumbsup:


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

The description of the problem and the fact that the engine coasts through the momentary interruption of power pickup with the reversing unit locked makes me think the problem is with the tender pickup. The easiest fix is to only run 302's with the longer 3 spring trucks. Regarding your 302 I am guessing the tension on the brass axle wipers is not equal on both axles of one of the trucks. If the tension on one side is higher than the other it is possible for only one pair of wheels in a truck to make firm contact with the rail. 
You can tell if it is the front or rear truck by running the engine slowly through the turnout and seeing which truck is over the frog when it stalls. Take out both axles, bend the brass wipers down an equal amount, I use long nose pliers, then reinstall the wheel sets. If everything is clean this may solve the problem.
I would still take the bottom plate off the turnout and clean the contacts as described above.


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

AmFlyer said:


> The description of the problem and the fact that the engine coasts through the momentary interruption of power pickup with the reversing unit locked makes me think the problem is with the tender pickup. The easiest fix is to only run 302's with the longer 3 spring trucks. Regarding your 302 I am guessing the tension on the brass axle wipers is not equal on both axles of one of the trucks. If the tension on one side is higher than the other it is possible for only one pair of wheels in a truck to make firm contact with the rail.
> You can tell if it is the front or rear truck by running the engine slowly through the turnout and seeing which truck is over the frog when it stalls. Take out both axles, bend the brass wipers down an equal amount, I use long nose pliers, then reinstall the wheel sets. If everything is clean this may solve the problem.
> I would still take the bottom plate off the turnout and clean the contacts as described above.


As usual you are a wealth of knowledge! Thanks, I will try your suggestions when I can get out to my cold, (did I say cold?) garage.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

I feel for you. It is actually a bit cool here today, it is only 62.


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