# BASIC STUFF, SERVICING CARS



## time warp

If you are fighting them, it's time to fix them. Your train cars are supposed to do some very simple things, namely stay on the track and stay coupled while following the locomotive. Anything short of that is unacceptable. Here are a few tips on "shopping" cars.

I just got this reefer, and the first thing I did was to check the wheels. As you can see, they were gauged too close together. This car would have caused a lot of problems had I tried to run it this way. All the other wheels were off as well.









I also discovered the coupler centering springs were gone from both couplers








I replaced the missing springs and applied a little graphite. I use x2f couplers but it doesn't matter, all couplers must move freely. That's true of any scale.







The wheels are corrected and reinstalled. I also checked to make sure the trucks swiveled freely. Much better!







I put the car on my test track to check coupler height. Even though my coupler gauge has a Kadee on it, The height spec is still the same. Again this is important for any coupler in any scale. Also pay attention to the trip pin height using the gauge.








This is the proper alignment of a Kadee coupler. The knuckles line up and the trip pin is just above the lower clearance surface.








The last item is to make sure the car has a brake wheel, then put it in a train for a test run. We're good to go now, ready for revenue service!


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## time warp

Another method for checking coupler height, the coupler face must be within the space of the gauge hole. This will agree with the Kadee gauge as well. Thank you NMRA.









Two different examples of truck and coupler arrangements. The top car is a Gould hopper with metal axles and body mounted couplers(not yet installed), and a Tyco car with truck mounted or "Talgo" type coupler mounting and molded plastic wheel/ axle style. Check carefully with your gauge, as the plastic wheel/ metal axle setup must be in gauge with the wheels centered side to side. The molded plastic type do get out of gauge from warpage and will cause huge problems. Never assume they are OK.








A Roundhouse car with screw mount trucks and metal axles with body mounted couplers. All the same rules apply









The Roundhouse car again. Note that the uncoupling pin is maintained at the proper height. It should not be dragging on the re railer or catching on switch track rails. Insuring these things are correct will eliminate many problems.


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## MtRR75

Good points, Time Warp.

I would add three things:

(1) Check the truck wobble -- both side-to-side and front-to-back. They should wobble from slightly too high to slightly too low in in all directions. If they don't wobble enough, the screw (or other attachment) needs to be loosened a little. If they are way too high in one direction (say, left), but not high enough in the other direction (right), then either the truck is mounted crooked on the bolster, or the bolster itself is not level, and needs to be gently filed level.

(2) Get a truck tuner and use it on plastic trucks (not for metal) to clean out gunk and carve the socket for the wheel set to its perfect shape. This will make reduce the rolling resistance of the car.

(3) Clean the wheels.

P.S. Before well-meaning members start suggesting replacing couplers and wheels, notice that this thread is about routine maintenance, NOT upgrading.


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## Fire21

Wow, great info, especially with the photos. I've read lots of info here about the subjects that time warp covered, but the photos help so much. Thanks to both of you!! :smilie_daumenpos:


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## time warp

Thanks to both of you. 
Fire21, Sometimes it just says more if a person can see it, and most car issues are strictly maintenance related(or neglect).
A little attention here and there goes a long way.

MT, I haven't used a truck tuner, but I can see the benefit. And yes, upgrades are a separate issue here. You have to start with the basics, It will not work any other way.


Another random example of what had to be someone else's misery:
Fresh off of ebay, wheels again all grossly out of gauge, plus each set is skewed to opposite sides of the truck. The offset of the wheels is obvious.
It would be hard to imagine this car being anything other than a constant derailment.












My personal favorite, I keep this one around.
Mismatched wheelsets, the metal axle being too wide forcing the sideframes apart, the other wheelset is caked with dirt and you can see the missing chunk of crud on the wheel tread. The wheels on the left having deep flanges, the ones on the right are RP25 contour. And the show stopper is the glued together couplers. Really good glue because that slick plastic never takes adhesive well. Why won't this work?


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## time warp

So taking my own advice, I brought a box full of freight cars up from the basement to my work table. No real surprises, save for 1 missing boxcar door:dunno:, 1 coupler with a dead centering spring, and a piece of flash on the DT&I all door that was attached to the wheel flange. About half the size of a pencil eraser, it had been there since new and hadn't caused any problems except the car always had a little wobble to it. It was across the tread of the wheel and was very thin. How I missed it all these months I'll never know.
That's 12 good to go out of 14, took about 15 or 20 minutes.
Here's the pass / fail requirements:
Gauge and inspect wheels
Coupler height and centering
Truck fit
Must have a brake wheel (if equipped)
All stirrup steps present.

It will take me a few days to get through them all, but I'll have better performing, more reliable rolling stock. And that means less stress and more fun!


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## CTValleyRR

Good guide! I have also picked up a couple of cars off of eBay that were advertised as problem children, and i was able to get them running well in under ten munutes, using what you describe above.


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## Shadow001

Great information, I just bought a bunch of used equipment and this will be very helpful.


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## time warp

I would like to see more N scalers involved in this topic so I'm glad you posted. I don't have any N equipment to use for comparative photos, but maybe some of you guys can help out.


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## JNXT 7707

time warp said:


> Here's the pass / fail requirements:
> Gauge and inspect wheels
> Coupler height and centering
> Truck fit
> Must have a brake wheel (if equipped)
> All stirrup steps present.
> 
> It will take me a few days to get through them all, but I'll have better performing, more reliable rolling stock. And that means less stress and more fun!


TW, I agree with MtRR75 on the truck tuner being a regular maintenance tool on shopping used rolling stock. Not always necessary but I put it on par with a coupler height gauge.

The only thing I can add from my own procedures is weighing the car. I have noticed a lot of older rolling stock is severely underweighted, and in some cases, like the AHM/IHC passenger cars, not weighted at all. NMRA has a good guide for this.


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## Shadow001

I will be happy to help, when I actually know something.


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## time warp

You don't have to know, we're all learning everyday. I know far less than what I don't know.:smilie_daumenpos:


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## time warp

It was mentioned earlier about cleaning wheels, and here's one from a while back. I had to dig the built up crud off of these wheels before I could even think about putting this car in service.
Dirt from the car wheels goes right on to the rails, then gets picked up by the locomotive, loco starts having trouble, and then things aren't fun anymore. Having clean wheels cannot be stressed enough.















I agree that weighing them is a good idea Jerry. Proper weight is important, and I would recommend getting an inexpensive scale for the job. 
It needs to be noted that adding weight does not nullify the other requirements, as everything needs to be right for rolling stock to perform it's best. As Jerry noted, it's a part of what needs to be done.


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## Magic

I agree about clean wheels.

I got a set of Santa Fe passenger cars off Ebay and the crud was so thick on the wheels it almost came to the height of the wheel flanges.
No wonder the guy sold it, probably wouldn't stay on the tracks. 
All these are good tips for good running cars.

Magic


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## CTValleyRR

time warp said:


> It was mentioned earlier about cleaning wheels, and here's one from a while back. I had to dig the built up crud off of these wheels before I could even think about putting this car in service.
> Dirt from the car wheels goes right on to the rails, then gets picked up by the locomotive, loco starts having trouble, and then things aren't fun anymore. Having clean wheels cannot be stressed enough.


Wow! That looks like you actually carved plastic off of those wheels. I can't believe anyone lets their stuff get that cruddy.


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## JNXT 7707

time warp said:


> .......... I agree that weighing them is a good idea Jerry. Proper weight is important, and I would recommend getting an inexpensive scale for the job.
> It needs to be noted that adding weight does not nullify the other requirements, as everything needs to be right for rolling stock to perform it's best. As Jerry noted, it's a part of what needs to be done.


And since I brought it up, it should also be noted that too much weight can be as detrimental as too little - you want to optimize the car's tracking ability while not adding too much friction and overloading your locomotive's pulling power. The NMRA weight guidelines are just that - guidelines. 

http://www.nmra.org/beginner/weight


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## J.C.

lot of good info for beginner the one thing I would add is to make a car/loco cradle , the ones in photo are just some egg carton foam , find the dimples are good for holding screws .


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## rrgrassi

I got tired of scraping the plastic wheels, so I been slowly converting over to metal. Yes, the metal does get dirty, but will not grow taller than the flange.


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## time warp

I'm glad you mentioned that, plastic wheels do get gunked up far worse than metal ones do.


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## time warp

Not to get too technical , but the diagram below helps illustrate the necessity for proper tracking of rolling stock.
The horizontal line represents the center sill , which naturally is the centerline of the car. It is imperative that the centerline of the car run with the centerline of the track. Poor assembly, damaged parts and wheels offset on the axles will all affect the effective thrust angle of the car. (Simply put, if the car goes crooked down the track, the pull on the couplers tries to drag the car off the track ).
Also, with body mounted couplers, remember that the pulling force is through the center sill of the car, because the couplers are attached to it( reference point "A"). The trucks simply follow the track as they have little or no pulling force against them, they are attached to the center sill at point "B".
With truck mounted, or "Talgo" style couplers, there is no pulling force at point "A" whatsoever. Because the couplers are attached to the trucks, all the pulling force is through the truck kingpins at point "B", That's why rolling stock with this coupler arrangement can be more prone to derailments when being pushed, especially through turnouts. All the force is on the truck pins, which tends to want to make the trucks turn instead of push.

Consider the pulling force on the first car in a model train 30 cars long. With body mounted couplers, all of the pulling force is through the center of the car, the majority of the force on the trucks will be side force from the rails guiding the wheels.
Now use the same example, only with truck mounted couplers. The first car in the train has it's own weight , plus the weight of the entire train, pulling on the first truck king pin. Also the side force from the rails guiding the car.
Most of the time our tiny trains won't care one way or the other, but will run along just fine. It's good to know about the forces in action to move the train though, especially when trouble arises.


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## NAJ

Great Thread!!!

I will bring up this subject once again (spoke to through PM about this) just to get it out there, unless of course I am the only one that experiences this issue.
It took a lot of experimentation to find 6 pieces of rolling stock that will cooperate with each other and stay on track all the time.
I have cars that are very light or top heavy and do not want to stay on the track around curves.
I am sure that with 22" or higher radius curves and a modern loco that can pull a load at low speeds this is not an issue, however...
I am using 18" Radius curves, 40 year old locomotives and transformer and they do not like to or want to run slowly.
Other than starting over with all new equipment/track what is the fix for that?


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## time warp

The speed issue is most likely the power pack, my equipment is at least the same age as yours and behaves pretty well.
As far as the cars, start with your standards gauge and check all your wheels and make sure the couplers are right and you'll probably have most of them going fairly easily. Most of my cars have required adjustments, but now nearly all of them run fine.


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## CTValleyRR

For most cars, poor tracking is a matter of being under weight. I always recommend adding weight to NMRA standards, i.e., 1 oz plus an additional 1/2 oz per 1" of car length.

You guys have inspired me. I have a portable programming track plus coupler height / weight tool. I'll go take a picture of it and post it for everybody.


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## MtRR75

NAJ said:


> Great Thread!!!
> 
> I will bring up this subject once again (spoke to through PM about this) just to get it out there, unless of course I am the only one that experiences this issue.
> It took a lot of experimentation to find 6 pieces of rolling stock that will cooperate with each other and stay on track all the time.
> I have cars that are very light or top heavy and do not want to stay on the track around curves.
> I am sure that with 22" or higher radius curves and a modern loco that can pull a load at low speeds this is not an issue, however...
> I am using 18" Radius curves, 40 year old locomotives and transformer and they do not like to or want to run slowly.
> Other than starting over with all new equipment/track what is the fix for that?


Remember that derailment involves both track and cars. Derailments that occur repeatedly in the same place are almost always due, at least in part, to track problems. Check your track with a level -- about every 4-5". Check to make sure that the track is level BOTH side to side AND along the track. And make sure that the level is truly level -- some aren't.


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## NAJ

MtRR75 said:


> Remember that derailment involves both track and cars. Derailments that occur repeatedly in the same place are almost always due, at least in part, to track problems. Check your track with a level -- about every 4-5". Check to make sure that the track is level BOTH side to side AND along the track. And make sure that the level is truly level -- some aren't.


It is probably not level, it is on top of 3/8" foam board that is on top of plywood, never checked the level when I laid it a year ago and it is not an option for me right now to rip it up.

At this point I have found 6 cars that like the track and run well on it so the rest just look pretty.


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## ExONRcarman

I like the foam idea!


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## J.C.

NAJ said:


> It is probably not level, it is on top of 3/8" foam board that is on top of plywood, never checked the level when I laid it a year ago and it is not an option for me right now to rip it up.
> 
> At this point I have found 6 cars that like the track and run well on it so the rest just look pretty.


not knowing what your running , but if it is body mounted couplers make sure that the car has three point suspension , meaning one truck a little loose(rock side to side) to compensate for uneven track.


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## NAJ

J.C. said:


> not knowing what your running , but if it is body mounted couplers make sure that the car has three point suspension , meaning one truck a little loose(rock side to side) to compensate for uneven track.


I mentioned this before and the response was...
"No wonder".
Older rolling stock with truck mounted horn hook couplers.


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## J.C.

NAJ said:


> I mentioned this before and the response was...
> "No wonder".
> Older rolling stock with truck mounted horn hook couplers.


older stuff usually has deep enough flanges to compensate for uneven track , as others have said it might be a weight problem tune your cars as per TW's instructions and check weight if heaviest car is 5oz then in my opinion all cars should be 5oz 
if 3oz (lightest weight I would go with)then the same applies as weight is critical in truck mounted couplers


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## time warp

J.C. said:


> older stuff usually has deep enough flanges to compensate for uneven track , as others have said it might be a weight problem tune your cars as per TW's instructions and check weight if heaviest car is 5oz then in my opinion all cars should be 5oz
> if 3oz (lightest weight I would go with)then the same applies as weight is critical in truck mounted couplers


 Truck mounts will work fine though. I have 18" and 15" curves and have no or very little trouble.


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## CTValleyRR

So, , here is my high tech testing unit. At one end is the kadee coupler height gauge. With the car coupled on, the markings represent the NMRA recommended car weight (read to the back of the car, not the coupler).

Note that at the opposite end, the rails overhang the board a bit. This is because this also serves as my programming track. Each of the programming track outputs from my DCC system has a short wire lead coming out, with a stripped end. I clip a test lead to the wire, and the other end to one of the protruding rails.

Note that i remove the coupler height gauge to use this as a programming track, because the gauge is metal and shorts the command station.


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## time warp

Not a bad idea.:thumbsup: Why don't you gap the rail ahead of your gauge?

I have an unpowered 18" service track with the gauge on it and a 36" powered test track. I'm shopping for a cheap scale now (9 bucks on ebay), but the graduated board may be something I need to do. I might use a piece of Lauan plywood.


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## Magic

I made a rig much like CTValley but put in a rerailer to make putting cars on easier. 
Got to re do it as the board warped, going to use a piece of oak I've got kicking around.
I just noticed this today.

Magic


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## MtRR75

NAJ said:


> It is probably not level, it is on top of 3/8" foam board that is on top of plywood, never checked the level when I laid it a year ago and it is not an option for me right now to rip it up.


You may not need to relay the track to level it. Try inserting thin shims of styrene (or card stock paper) under the low sides of the track to bring it into level


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## 89Suburban

Time Warp thanks for the thread and info.


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## CTValleyRR

Magic said:


> I made a rig much like CTValley but put in a rerailer to make putting cars on easier.
> Got to re do it as the board warped, going to use a piece of oak I've got kicking around.
> I just noticed this today.
> 
> Magic


If you look at mine, you will see that the board is warped. It doesn't affect anything (in fact, if the car rolls toward the ends, that means the wheels and axles are in good shape.

I could gap the rails, but I don't really want to permanently attach the coupler height gauge, so it's kind of 6 of one, half dozen of the other.


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## time warp

I'd just like to add again that before anyone tries to "weight" a car into running well, that wheels and couplers need to be looked at and adjusted first if necessary. 
The wheels must be correct, or you are wasting your time.


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## NAJ

time warp said:


> I'd just like to add again that before anyone tries to "weight" a car into running well, that wheels and couplers need to be looked at and adjusted first if necessary.
> The wheels must be correct, or you are wasting your time.



I will say this thread is very informative and helpful and I have learned from it, however...

Unless I find something simple with a piece of rolling stock such as worn/weak couplers, wheels or worn/binding trucks, etc I will not be taking them apart to add weight in just the right amounts and right spots to get the center of gravity and body roll just right to able to use them, too much work for me especially on a 3 x 5 oval when I can run the cars that work well together for hours upon hours with no issues.

That being said, keep the info coming. :smilie_daumenpos:


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## CTValleyRR

NAJ said:


> I will say this thread is very informative and helpful and I have learned from it, however...
> 
> Unless I find something simple with a piece of rolling stock such as worn/weak couplers, wheels or worn/binding trucks, etc I will not be taking them apart to add weight in just the right amounts and right spots to get the center of gravity and body roll just right to able to use them, too much work for me especially on a 3 x 5 oval when I can run the cars that work well together for hours upon hours with no issues.
> 
> That being said, keep the info coming. :smilie_daumenpos:


I think you missed part of the discussion somewhere. If your cars are running well, there is no reason to monkey with them. The whole point is how do you service cars that AREN'T running well. Cars that have tracking problems are often underweight. An underweight car in the middle of a consist can often get stringlined, that is, under tension, get pulled off the rails by the heavier cars on either side.

I agree, why would you tear into a perfectly good car? I feel the same way about metal couplers -- I don't replace them until the OE coupler fails.


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## time warp

NAJ said:


> I will say this thread is very informative and helpful and I have learned from it, however...
> 
> Unless I find something simple with a piece of rolling stock such as worn/weak couplers, wheels or worn/binding trucks, etc I will not be taking them apart to add weight in just the right amounts and right spots to get the center of gravity and body roll just right to able to use them, too much work for me especially on a 3 x 5 oval when I can run the cars that work well together for hours upon hours with no issues.
> 
> That being said, keep the info coming. :smilie_daumenpos:



CT is right, NAJ. I don't weight any of my cars, save for the "shake and bake" melted ore cars (no choice there, they fall over) and the Gould hoppers on the Moose Jaw. The rest of them are as built. It works for me because I run 5 - 6 cars max. in a consist.


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## traction fan

*checking couplers with a modified NMRA gauge*

Timewarp;

Saw a photo earlier in your excellent thread. It showed a small oval hole in an NMRA gauge. My N-scale version doesn't have that hole. I cut a notch for the coupler knuckle, and another notch for the trip pin to pass under the gauge. By rolling a car up to the gauge I get a very accurate go/no go indication. If the knuckle doesn't go through the notch, it needs adjustment.

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## Fire21

What a great idea! Are there measurements somewhere that told you where to make those openings? I mean, how did you decide what is the standard for those heights?


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## time warp

Fantastic! Thanks for getting involved.
The NMRA spec for N scale coupler height is .216 from rail surface to coupler CENTERLINE. I'll try to post the specs when time allows or just refer to the NMRA website.

As far as trip pin height you can also just lay your standards gauge flat across the rails and make sure the trip pin just clears it. That will get you close enough that it won't catch on crossings and switch rails.

I really appreciate the pictures!:smilie_daumenpos:


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## CTValleyRR

Nice adaptation of the NMRA gauge. The only caveat I would throw out is that you need to be EXTREMELY careful that you don't bend the gauge as you bore the hole in it, because that would ruin its usefulness for the other measurements.


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## rrgrassi

I use a piece of 2x4. lay the thin piece of metal on the 2x4 and drill carefully. No warping from pressure due to the 2x4 backing.


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## CTValleyRR

rrgrassi said:


> I use a piece of 2x4. lay the thin piece of metal on the 2x4 and drill carefully. No warping from pressure due to the 2x4 backing.


Yep -- that oughta work! My warning was more intended for people who might modify theirs without the necessary precautions.


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## traction fan

*Micro Trains coupler height standard*



Fire21 said:


> What a great idea! Are there measurements somewhere that told you where to make those openings? I mean, how did you decide what is the standard for those heights?


Fire21: 

Yes, the standards are available on the Micro Trains website. Look at the diagrams and the very small print. I cheated and just used a Micro trains car with couplers attached. Unless you use your cars on a club, or other layout (besides your own) all that matters is that every coupler on your layout exactly matches the height of every other coupler on your layout. If your standard is a thousandth or two different than Micro trains or the NMRA's it wouldn't really matter. 

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## ExONRcarman

*my nickels worth to this thread*

So my layout has to be very mobile, taken apart at a moments notice, and disappear. being this way i cannot have a "work bench area. Every thing must be small and mobile. In the "get anything new thread" i posted a pic of my small wheeled tool box cart. It holds everything i need. I mounted a power bar on the back side of it. Im looking for a lighted magnifying glass to mound on the top.
Here is the most recent thing ive added to it. it is my test/ work area for locos. I took a spare power pack and mounted aligator clips to the leads. i can attach it to my test rail or directly to the guts of any loco, depending on the work i need to do.


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## traction fan

*Very nice!*



ExONRcarman said:


> So my layout has to be very mobile, taken apart at a moments notice, and disappear. being this way i cannot have a "work bench area. Every thing must be small and mobile. In the "get anything new thread" i posted a pic of my small wheeled tool box cart. It holds everything i need. I mounted a power bar on the back side of it. Im looking for a lighted magnifying glass to mound on the top.
> Here is the most recent thing ive added to it. it is my test/ work area for locos. I took a spare power pack and mounted aligator clips to the leads. i can attach it to my test rail or directly to the guts of any loco, depending on the work i need to do.


ExONRcarman;

That's a nice little work area you have there! I'm going to suggest you reconsider the lighted magnifier though. I had one, and stopped trying to use it. It was in the way, out of focus, or steamed up by my breath, 95% of the time!:smilie_daumenneg: I now use an optivisor. This is a magnifier that can be put on your head, as you would put on a hat. It's compatible with eyeglasses, doesn't steam up, and can easily be focused by moving your head, or the object you're trying to see, in or out a bit. I recommend that instead of the lamp/magnifier on an arm thing.

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## ExONRcarman

noted. thanks traction fan


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## CTValleyRR

My lighting and magnification solution is pretty simple. I use a camping headlamp for light, and a pair of +4x clip on lenses for my reading glasses (you can see them in the background of one of my photos above.

Never gets steamed up, never gets in the way, always in focus.


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## MtRR75

CTValleyRR said:


> I use a camping headlamp for light, and a pair of +4x clip on lenses for my reading glasses (you can see them in the background of one of my photos above.


That would be post #31, for those who are interested.


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## CTValleyRR

MtRR75 said:


> That would be post #31, for those who are interested.


Yeah, i was too lazy to go back and look.


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## ExONRcarman

*another nickels worth*

So as most know from the anything new thread ive been lucky on ebay, scoring lots of locos that were advertised as for parts or repair.. So ive been tinkering one at a time, but getting long repair times when it comes to cleaning the wheels. too many boken bones in hand in the past plus arthritis (just starting) makes my hand cramp up when working with the little stuf and repeated motion. soooo... when it comes to these axles i have found a solution.


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## ExONRcarman

they come apart easily


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## ExONRcarman

Now using a cordless drill with a WELL USED 1/2" chuck i place the separate wheels in the chuck spin and clean without killing my hands. WAY faster. Obviously you must be careful not to close the chuck to tight and not to take much material of the wheel.


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## traction fan

*Another way of cleaning wheels*

ExonCarMan;

Very good tip for cleaning wheels that come apart.:appl:
There is another, "no hands" way of cleaning any wheels you can remove from rolling stock, whether they come apart or not. Put the wheels in an Ultrasonic cleaner. I use alcohol in mine, but water with a tiny fraction of a drop, (dip a toothpick and use what's on the end. These detergents are incredibly concentrated. A very little bit goes a very long way.) of dish washing liquid (Joy, Palmolive, Dawn, etc.) will also clean them. The same method works for other small parts too.

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## ExONRcarman

ultra sonic cleaner? i will investigate that. thank you


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## CTValleyRR

Ultrasonic cleaners work very well for certain applications. I have this one (or something very similar): https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-P...r=8-2-spons&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner&psc=1

It's primary use is for cleaning miniature figures prior to priming, but it works well on small parts under about 5" in length / 3" width.


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## Ed.James

Great thread ! Thanks gents !


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## time warp

I bought this scale off of eBay weeks ago for a few bucks and finally got to try it today. I put batteries in it and fired up, but had trouble with it finding zero and drifting.
Tried weighing different objects and it just wasn't right. Subject HO caboose showed 0.08 ozs.:dunno:











I share a brain with Einstein, so you'll note in the second photo that I TOOK THE PROTECTIVE COVER OFF and mysteriously the scale worked perfectly.:loser:
The subject caboose weighs just under 2 ozs.
Not the best pictures, but I'm working from bed and the lighting isn't great.
This little scale was a good buy and has a 1lb capacity, great for small scale equipment.


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## Lemonhawk

I'd never do anything like that, nope never ever


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## Magic

Been there and done that many times.

Magic


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## CTValleyRR

Welcome to my world, TW! At least you share a brain with Einstein. Sometimes I think I share mine with Einstein... the dog from Back to the Future...


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## traction fan

*Some tips to make things that don't tip.*

TimeWarp;

With the skyrocketing cost of hobby paint, cement, and other liquid hobby products, it's nice if you don't waste them by spilling. 
Besides that, Murphy's Law will probably cause the spilled liquid to get on something that you spent hours on, and mess it up!

I made these little bottle holders from scrap lumber, drilled with hole saws to fit the various bottles.

regards;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## time warp

Nice idea!


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## traction fan

*Storage/carying case for N & Z-scale trains*

TimeWarp;

I use these plastic fishing tackle boxes as train haulers. Modelers in HO-scale might check out the general purpose plastic storage boxes, with movable dividers. They are sold at Home Depot, & Lowes.

regards;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## traction fan

*Model structures with "invisible wiring."*

TimeWarp;

On structures where interior ceiling lights, lighted signs, or outdoor lights, attached to the walls, are needed; hiding the necessary wires can sometimes be a problem. I've used thin Printed Circuit board walls with wood or plastic exterior, and interior, sheathing. The PC board can have very simple runs cut into it to carry current up from the base to the desired lamp location. In the photo, a laser-cut station kit has had thin PC board sandwiched between the original wooden wall, and a piece of scribed basswood. The edge of the PC board is the thin blue line inside the right, and left, interior walls. This makes wiring virtually invisible.
Another benefit of PC walls is a very strong structure. Some small structures I've built with all PC walls, and roofs, are nearly indestructible. These would be good in locations where they might be bumped, like near the edge of a layout. 

regards;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## traction fan

*New, stronger interior for a socket set case.*

TimeWarp;

While not railroad related, I'd like to share this tip.

Some small socket sets come in a metal box, with a thin, flimsy molded plastic interior. This interior piece soon cracks, and lets the sockets go all over the inside of the box. That means having to sort through the sockets, to find the next smaller/larger size one that you always seem to need. The sockets also rattle whenever the box is moved.
After this happened to my set, I made a wooden interior. It holds the sockets, their ratchet handle, and even an extra extension. This makes it easy to find the next size socket, since they stay in place, and it should last for years. The interior is just a scrap bit of 1x3" lumber cut to fit the box. I drilled and Dremel carved the necessary holes and slots to hold everything in place.

regards;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## time warp

A person could do something similar to store small pliers, tweezers, X-acto knife, etc. I just keep mine in an old car kit box, it keeps them together but not at all organized.


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## RonthePirate

Hey, Timewarp.........as far as hiding the wires: I use cocktail straws.
The wire will fit (usually) and they can be cut at 45 degree angles, and carefully glued to make a bend.
And they glue right up to LED's or grain of rice bulbs.
It's really good for like, on the side of a house.
Looks like utility lines.


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## time warp

Good idea for bigger scales. I wouldn't have thought of it.


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## time warp

Here are a few more everyday problems that creep up, but if you don't fix them, this type of thing will spoil the fun.
This group had some small, nagging problems. The Rock Island S2 had a front coupler spring fail, causing surprise uncoupling. Installed a replacement coupler.
The tanker had a coupler trip pin catching on switch tracks and road crossings. I trimmed the uncoupling pin for clearance.
The Swifts reefer was continually derailing. Found 3 problems on the same truck. The coupler was seized from flash on the draft gear pin, wheels were out of gauge, and the truck kingpin was tight in the pivot hole of the truck.
I trimmed the flash from the draft gear pin, regauged the wheels, and reamed the kingpin hole in the truck a little before reassembling it with a bit of graphite. All better now.


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## time warp

Bump for reference


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## ExONRcarman

ive read this thread many times, i always walk away with new ideas


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## time warp

I'm glad it's doing some good.


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## time warp

Part of the backlog of equipment on the bad order track. Maybe I'll post some of the repairs as they are made.


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## ExONRcarman

i love that pen central. never found another like it.


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## time warp

That PC is an old ATT model. They don't turn up that often, especially in that kind of condition.


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## time warp

I got the rare P&WV boxcar up and going by replacing the underframe. I had a damaged Burlington Northern boxcar that was an AHM model made in Taiwan, and I was surprised that the under frame would fit this ancient P & WV boxcar that was made in Austria. I also gauged the Wheel sets and checked the coupler operation and height.















This AHM Helium car just needed the wheels re-gauged, and the couplers received a bit of graphite to free them up.








The Michigan Central gondola got the standard service, plus I replaced 2 missing stirrup steps with ones salvaged from a donor car.










It's a good practice to make sure your rolling stock is correct before putting them in service. Nothing ruins the fun like a troublesome piece of equipment.


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## ExONRcarman

looks like any monkey can fix rolling stock! lol


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## time warp

That's right, and then there's the one in the pictures.:laugh::laugh:


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