# Splicing #22awg wire and smaller



## Xnats (Dec 5, 2010)

Just a little, how to, on how to simplify wiring with N Scale. hopefully it will help someone. 

The Kato Turn-Outs come prewired with #26 AWG wiring. Most local places only sell connectors for #18 and larger. 









Everyone sells these those. The trade name is "chiclets" and you can find them in the communication isle of hardware stores and Radio Shack.









Make sure you ends are even, notice the jacket has not been stripped 









Insert your matching pair. Through the back you can see if they are set correctly.









Just use a pair of pliers or linemens and push the lock into place. 









The one on the right is fully locked. Most brands make a click noise, when in locks. 









In less then 30 seconds you are done


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I use a soldering iron and heat-shrink tubing, cheaper.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Clever ... Are those specific Chicklets only for one specific gauge of wire (26, in your case), or can they handle some range of wire, say 26 to 22 or something like that?

Thanks,

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

They normally will handle a limited range of wire sizes. Another option is these Dolphin crimp connectors, they'll handle any wire size you can stuff in, and they're very reliable once they are crimped. They're also cheaper... 










They come in gel filled versions for waterproof connections as well.


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## Guest (Feb 21, 2011)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I use a soldering iron and heat-shrink tubing, cheaper.


X2, and you don;t have a big arse connector sticking up


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## fatalxsunrider43 (Mar 6, 2011)

Scothc Lock was a common splice component when I was a Cable Splicer for General Telephone in the 90's, good way to connect 22 Ga. wire,

fatalxsunrider43


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## tankist (Jun 11, 2009)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I use a soldering iron and heat-shrink tubing, cheaper.


same here. cheaper, most reliable and no bulk dangling around. 

OP, soldering is not that hard, and soldering iron is a good investment for this hobby.


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## Xnats (Dec 5, 2010)

I'll agree that soldering is better hands down. More reliable, I would have to disagree. There is always the factor of operator error especial when new to soldering. I mechanical crimp is by far the most reliable. The second is a irreversible crimp. Just take a look at you Power Company or DOT work, no soldering going on out there. 
Why would someone buy Kato or any track with a roadbed already attached?
They are buying it, for the ease of set up. So if you have the kato turnouts or power supply track you have 4 choices, which come with a 26 awg lead. Leave your wiring up top on the table. Bury it in the foam if you used it. Drill a 1/2 hole to allow the premade plug to fit or solder it. 
Just given another option for nice folks who don't own a soldering gun and don't want to solder. Lets face it, a standard yellow or orange wire nut won't work good. Trying to find small wire nuts or a crimp is a pain and everyone sells chiclets. It sure beats twisting the wires together and taping them 

As for me there is no way I'm going to lay on my stomach under a bunkbed and solder :laugh: Then again I'll never use plastic roadbed again for a layout  I'll save it for a floor setup


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, mechanical crimps are far more prone to human error. The reason that power companies or the phone company use crimp connections is not reliability, but rather convenience.

On one point we can agree. Whether you're soldering or crimping, you need to do it correctly, either can be unreliable if you're careless.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Stripping small gauge wire?

http://www.micromark.com/Hard-To-Find-Wire-Stripper-AWG-22-30,6544.html


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I have a real stripper for the wirewrap wire that I use, never nicks the wire and strips it clean every time. It's from back in my wirewrap days.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I have a real stripper for the wirewrap wire that I use, never nicks the wire and strips it clean every time. It's from back in my wirewrap days.


What a coincidence! I had a real stripper way back in my early days, too! 

Dohhh!

Signed,

Someone who is definitely not TJ ... to be clear, TJ had nothing to do with writing this post. Just in case TJ's wife happens to ask ... or something ...


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Pictures please.


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## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

Yea pics TJ!


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## jeffjgale (Feb 10, 2011)

*suitcase connectors*

3M Scotchlok suitcase connectors are what I use, any auto parts store will have them, Radio Shack in the USA or Dick Smiths in Australia. 
Regards Jeff.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Those are not really suitable for really small wires, not to mention they're pretty bulky. They're great for automotive wiring, doubtless why auto parts stores carry them.


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## Bucklaew (Oct 7, 2010)

I have used all the methods above, and I always go back to soldering the 2 or 3 wires together. Wire nuts as far as I am concerned should be outlawed. They fail for any number of reasons. Crimp type connector are something I have learned to hate. I have had them break and not crimp properly. The only true good connection for me is a soldered connection but then I was taught to solder 55 years ago by the Navy and once you learn the technique, it will last forever. Cold solder joints can be repaired. I use a lot of heat shrink. I use atlas track and switches, and have found that soldering them together is a very good idea. Always use a low wattage iron (25 watts or below).


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

While a soldered connection is my primary choice, and one I use most often, crimp connections have their place. I've found the Dolphin splices I posted recently are very reliable, and they are very fast to use. These are the same splices that have been used by the phone companies for years, I'm sure they did a lot of testing on them.


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

In a weird sort of way, I find soldering, wrapping, heat shrinking, etc. to be rather relaxing.
It's always cool to sit back and admire a nicely soldered wire splice, right?
Not only that, you're pretty sure it's not going to fall apart any time soon!
Bob


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Can't argue that the soldered joints will be the most reliable as a rule, and also the most compact.


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## juststartingout (Jan 2, 2011)

raleets said:


> In a weird sort of way, I find soldering, wrapping, heat shrinking, etc. to be rather relaxing.
> Bob


Strange, I was thinking the same the same thing. My wife and son bought this repro table top jukebox and all but a couple of the lights were fried. soldering iron, lights from Hobbylinc and.............


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## rccrookshank (Feb 2, 2014)

i user super glue and shrink wrap. works wekk for me


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## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)




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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

rccrookshank said:


> i user super glue and shrink wrap. works wekk for me


I hope you don't plan on those joints carrying any electrical current! hwell:


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## little toot (Dec 3, 2013)

I see they have some wire glue on eBay in N scale trains section. It is supposed to be conductive. I wonder if anyone has tried it?


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## rccrookshank (Feb 2, 2014)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I hope you don't plan on those joints carrying any electrical current! hwell:


why not??


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Do yourself a big favor and don't bother! If you want conductivity, solder the wire!


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