# Air brush 101 -- Help!



## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

I've had this Badger air brush for more than 25 years, sitting in the same box, and I never really took the time to learn how to use it. Well between some coal car rebuilds and a motorcycle project, I really need to figure this out!

Last night I did some reading, and with semi-confidence I mixed up a 50/50 batch of FolkArt antique copper paint with 70% alcohol, got some airflow around 25psi, and tried to do some test painting. Disaster! Despite playing with the airflow and the depth of the air brush needle, and the paint visually mixing very well in the alcohol, I could only get the paint to come out in spurts. And when I took the air brush apart, I found a gummy-like substance of paint. Obviously something is very wrong!

My first guess is that the metallic acrylic paints are different from the generic colors, and require a different thinner. My second guess is that I remember reading about people straining their paint before pouring it into the air brush jar -- maybe these masses are common in acrylic paints and this is the reason for straining?

So... help a newbie out. What should I be doing to make this work well? The copper color was for the motorcycle, but I'll be using plain black and rust colors for my trains, I'd still like to hear if there are any differences in how to use each kind of paint (mostly FolkArt and Americana brands).

Thanks!


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## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

I googled "Mix acrylic paint with alcohol", and got this. I haven't watched the whole video, but as soon as he mentioned 91% alcohol, I thought that might be your solution (get it?...solution?), since he said it made all the difference in the world for him.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Hmm ok everything I read said to use 70% alcohol or windex... and since I didn't have any windex... Fortunately I also have 91% alcohol (been using it to strip the old paint from cars), so I'll give that a try and see if the gummy strings go away. Also I thought maybe letting the original mixture sit overnight might help too. Regardless, I'll probably try to find some really fine screens to pour the paint through, just to make sure I have a nice smooth mix to start with.


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## Genetk44 (Feb 26, 2016)

Shdwdrgn said:


> I've had this Badger air brush for more than 25 years, sitting in the same box, and I never really took the time to learn how to use it. Well between some coal car rebuilds and a motorcycle project, I really need to figure this out!
> 
> Last night I did some reading, and with semi-confidence I mixed up a 50/50 batch of FolkArt antique copper paint with 70% alcohol, got some airflow around 25psi, and tried to do some test painting. Disaster! Despite playing with the airflow and the depth of the air brush needle, and the paint visually mixing very well in the alcohol, I could only get the paint to come out in spurts. And when I took the air brush apart, I found a gummy-like substance of paint. Obviously something is very wrong!
> 
> ...


I would start by mixing a bit of paint in a dish with various types of alchol.water,windex etc...not all acrylics are the same...some get gummy when mixed with the wrong thinning liquid. Btw..what model Badger airbrush?


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Genetk44 said:


> Btw..what model Badger airbrush?


Uh... the blue and silver one? Whatever HobbyLobby was selling in the 80's? I really haven't got a clue!

Guess I'll have to experiment with thinners, but only a little bit got gummy, most of the paint looked very nicely thinned.


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## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*One problem with water based paints*

I still like to use solvent based paints with an a exhausting paint booth.So I'm no help here at this time. It does seem like a solvent compatibility problem though:dunno:


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

I've used my air brush about 3 times. First I tried some paint from the craft store, took a lot of pressure, was sputtery and dried quickly and gummed up the airbrush. I then tried some Valleyjo paints for airbrush, wow what a difference. I had an old tank car kit that had a metal frame (Zink?). I soaked the frame in vinegar and let dry for a day. I then used a little grimy black paint and 15 lbs of pressure (Paasche VL) and I got a nice thin layer that left all the detail. I think its all in the paint! something about how finely ground the pigments are. You also use very little paint so it really pays to use high quality paint made for airbrushing! I clean the airbrush with windex and then distilled water.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I've never used the FolkArt brand myself, so I can't really say for sure. It does sound like something not mixing properly.

I use 35% rubbing alcohol to dilute acrylic paints for airbrushing all the time (ModelMaster, Polly Scale, and Vallejo), and never have that trouble. Some metallic paints do have rather big metallic flakes in them. Maybe the substance these are composed of is decomposing in the alcohol? Perhaps there was some residue inside the airbrush? Perhaps it is just too thick and is drying in the airbrush? It should be the consistency of 2% milk (i.e., just slightly thicker than water).


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Lemonhawk could be right.. This guys site has some useful tips on airbrushing: https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/home


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

I use the el-cheapo Apple Barrel acrylic paints from Wally World (cause *I'M* an el-cheapo!) and thin them about 50-50 with a 50-50 mix of 91% isopropyl alcohol and distilled water. I get very good results.


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## Genetk44 (Feb 26, 2016)

I really realy like the Vallejo ModelAir paint for airbrushes. Its perfect straight out of the container and very rarely needs thinning, sprays beautifully at about 12-15 psi. The regular Vallejo paint also sprays well but must be thinned, I use either Windex or Vallejo airbrush thinner.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Cyclops, thanks for the link, I'll look it over.

flyboy... alcohol AND water? Interesting combination, but wouldn't that just mean you were using 45% alcohol? instead of 91%? Can't hurt to try it both ways, stronger and more dilute... something obviously works for other people.


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

Shdwdrgn said:


> flyboy... alcohol AND water? Interesting combination, but wouldn't that just mean you were using 45% alcohol? instead of 91%? Can't hurt to try it both ways, stronger and more dilute... something obviously works for other people.


Yes, it's a 45% alcohol solution. I tried using straight 91%, but it didn't work very well. So I cut it 50% with water, and that worked very well.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Is this a craft paint?*



Shdwdrgn said:


> I've had this Badger air brush for more than 25 years, sitting in the same box, and I never really took the time to learn how to use it. Well between some coal car rebuilds and a motorcycle project, I really need to figure this out!
> 
> Last night I did some reading, and with semi-confidence I mixed up a 50/50 batch of FolkArt antique copper paint with 70% alcohol, got some airflow around 25psi, and tried to do some test painting. Disaster! Despite playing with the airflow and the depth of the air brush needle, and the paint visually mixing very well in the alcohol, I could only get the paint to come out in spurts. And when I took the air brush apart, I found a gummy-like substance of paint. Obviously something is very wrong!
> 
> ...


Shdrdwgn;

From the name "Folk Art" and the photo I'm guessing you're using craft paint. The other replies also point in that direction. If so, you should/may already; know that craft paint is THICK. My wife uses craft paint a lot for painting wooden, "Isn't it CUTE" widgets that are supposed to be "crafts." The craft paint she uses can cover raw white pine any color with one coat. Many house paints can't do that! Besides being craft paint you are also using metallic paint. Many metallic paints have chunks of metal color flakes in them which can easily clog an airbrush. So can not-thinned-enough, and/or thinned- with-the-wrong-solvent, craft/any; paint. I don't know about the brand of paint you have, but all the craft paints I'm familiar with are water based, not alcohol based. Are you sure that your paint is supposed to be thinned with alcohol? You might want to try thinning it with water, just to see if that works better, or not. Your call. I have used craft paint for brush painting (Works great & cleans up well with water.) and also tried it in an airbrush, thinned with water. ( works, sort of, but doesn't cover well; or spray consistently.) 
My best guess is that your airbrush's sputtering, and clogging; are both related to trying to force something through it that either is too thick, not thinned with the correct solvent, or has bigger chunks of pigment, or metal flake than the airbrush can handle.
I'd suggest disassembling, and cleaning the airbrush thoroughly, and trying the same airbrush with model paint intended for airbrushing. Tamiya, Valejo, Model Master, your choice. If the brush works well with the model paint then the problem is the metal flake craft paint. Screening paint going into an airbrush is a good practice, in general, but may or may not solve your problem. Frankly, with good quality model paint, thinned correctly, I've not had to screen it.

Good luck, 

Traction Fan


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

traction fan -- These FolkArt paints are acrylics, which I see used a lot around here (and I myself have been using to practice weathering). I looked on google for information about how people were using this specific brand in air brushs, and thinning with alcohol was prevelant, so I *thought* I had it covered.

Regarding the metal flakes... yes I'm aware of that problem, but when the air brush DID spit something out, the metal flakes were well mixed in, so they're small enough to not cause a problems.

I agree that it doesn't seem like I'm thinning with the right solution, the gummy strings are obviously not supposed to be there, and are the reason the air brush clogged up. So it will take some experimenting to figure out what actually works as a good thinner for this paint.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Genetk44 said:


> I really realy like the Vallejo ModelAir paint for airbrushes. Its perfect straight out of the container and very rarely needs thinning, sprays beautifully at about 12-15 psi. The regular Vallejo paint also sprays well but must be thinned, I use either Windex or Vallejo airbrush thinner.


I'll gladly second your opinion on that. They are all I have used for about 8 years now.

For thinning, you can use 35% isopropyl alcohol and distilled (or at least filtered) water.

FYI, the Microlux line of acrylics being sold by MicroMark as a replacement for PollyScale colors are just rebranded Vallejo Model Air paints.


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## Genetk44 (Feb 26, 2016)

CTValleyRR said:


> I'll gladly second your opinion on that. They are all I have used for about 8 years now.
> 
> For thinning, you can use 35% isopropyl alcohol and distilled (or at least filtered) water.
> 
> FYI, the Microlux line of acrylics being sold by MicroMark as a replacement for PollyScale colors are just rebranded Vallejo Model Air paints.


I've used water too...but really the ModelAir paints almost never need thinning in my experience.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Genetk44 said:


> I've used water too...but really the ModelAir paints almost never need thinning in my experience.


Yeah, sorry I wasn't clear. I meant for the ModelColor / Panzer Aces lines. I've never had to thin ModelAir.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Sorry, been down since Monday night with a bad ear infection. Doc says it's caused by my allergies, I says "Doc, allergy season was over weeks ago!" Yeah I'm glad she's not my regular doc.

Anyway, I've barely had the energy to watch TV, haven't had any chance to play with it again.


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

You get well. The airbrush will wait.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Shdwdrgn said:


> Sorry, been down since Monday night with a bad ear infection. Doc says it's caused by my allergies, I says "Doc, allergy season was over weeks ago!" Yeah I'm glad she's not my regular doc.
> 
> Anyway, I've barely had the energy to watch TV, haven't had any chance to play with it again.


As the resident Kings of Hay Fever, my son and I are no stranger to ear or sinus infections caused by them. Allergy season may be over (for some, I'm having a bad week), but those infections take a while to develop.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Back at work today... The pain is mostly gone, just have to eat slowly, and I still can't hear anything from that ear.

Three-day weekend coming up, I may have some time Sunday or Monday to play around with it again.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

Ear infections can be really painful - like being at sea and being seasick, you just can't get away from it. Take it easy and get well soon!


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

It helps keep me sympathetic to my wife's chronic migraines...


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

if it makes any difference, i think differing types of airbrushes react differently to craft type paints ...i have a couple of cheap ebay no name airbrushes that will spray craft paints quite well, a paasche that will spray them only when well thinned [better with windex than alcohol], and a iwata that plugs up when you bring craft paint close to it, 
the ebay ones were supposed to be 0.3mm tip, but i think they are a little bigger, they can put large volumes of paint on quite readily, much more so than the two name brand ones that i have ..
i find that i use the paasche the most, when finished i give it a basic wipe and flush, and then leave it immersed in a tub filled with mineral spirits until i need it gain, about once a year it gets a proper disassembly and ultrasonic bath cleanup


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## feldon30 (Dec 30, 2012)

Late to this party but I found that isopropyl alcohol especially lower numbers like 70%, you really have no idea what you are getting. I too had spattery results even with a super premium paint like Tamiya. When I switched to pure denatured alcohol, the paint started going on like butter on bread. On flat paints I am using 40% alcohol to 60% paint. On metallic I went up to 50-50 and had great results.

As for the craft paints I have not yet shot any through my Badger airbrush but I do have a bottle of Createx/Wicked solid black I intend to try. At 1/4 the price of the Tamiya I am hopeful. I'll be thinning it with this recipe a guy posted...


3 parts Distilled Water
1 part Denatured Alcohol
1 part Ammonia Free Clear Window Cleaner (Eagle 20/20)
Drops of Glycerin

I couldn't find Eagle 20/20 but I found an equivalent at AutoZone which I'll be trying.


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## The New Guy (Mar 11, 2012)

feldon30 said:


> ...pure denatured alcohol...


:laugh:


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## santafealltheway (Nov 27, 2012)

I read a TON of forums on this, tons of different thinsg people are using, but common between 80% of them was the use of

Acrylic Flow Improver
&
Acrylic Fluid Retarder

a couple drops of each in your Windex/alcohol/whatever mixture really helps.

Heres a link to a mix i've been using successfully.

http://www.cybermodeler.com/tips/thinner.shtml


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## feldon30 (Dec 30, 2012)

feldon30 said:


> When I switched to pure denatured alcohol...





The New Guy said:


> :laugh:


Ok it's not completely pure because they add poison to it to discourage consumption.




santafealltheway said:


> I read a TON of forums on this, tons of different thinsg people are using, but common between 80% of them was the use of
> 
> Acrylic Flow Improver
> &
> ...


Interesting. I watched their official Youtube video and Flow Improver decreases the surface tension and can be mixed up to 10%. So basically it's got a surfactant like dish soap. $7 for 4 oz of something you use only a few drops of is a pretty good price.

As for the retarder, if the paint is drying too fast yeah it's a great product. With as much alcohol as I cut my paint with, the paint is almost dry by the time it hits the model. I've got a little bottle of Badger Retarder but I've never tried it.


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