# Absolute beginer



## etpelle

Brand new to this (weeks) and i built and painted my first buildings (N) but have questions. 

1. How do you choose color schemes? I don't want to keep doing brick red, and which reds do you use. 
2. Right now my palette is limited (badger model flex structures & weathering sets). What colors/brand to have on hand?
3. I think i am okay at weathering with the powder, but am afraid to do the brick grouting techniques i've been seeing. Mostly paining white wash over and then wiping off. Also i have built all the structures is better to have painted and grouted before gluing? If so i guess it's too late now)

here is what i have done so far:


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## MichaelE

Your work looks excellent to my eye.

Research small town America in the 30s to 60s for color pictures of downtown areas. Many small and medium size towns and cities have historical societies with many photographs of the town before the present day. These should help you choose appropriate colors.

Though many brick buildings of the era were left unpainted, you will see some with a coat of paint. Especially the facade as you have nicely done, were very often painted in bright reds and greens.


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## MohawkMike

Looks good. Actually, a lot of brick red adds continuity and gives a good overall impression. Of course, variety is needful It appears to me that you are smart enough to pick the right colors. Excellent job.


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## JeffHurl

I agree with MichaelE. Your work looks excellent!!

For grout, I like to use watered down joint compound like you would use to repair drywall. It's water soluble, so I white wash the area I want to add grout to, then use a damp sponge to wipe away the excess. It may take several wipes with clean water to remove the white wash effect and leave just the grout. But then, a lot of older brick building do look sort of white washed. The good news, is you can let everything dry between rounds of wiping off the excess, so you can see how it looks before removing more of any excess remaining.

For reds, I use "Barn Red" "Brick Red" and "Red Iron Oxide" as 3 different shades of red brick. There are also a lot of buildings that are made from gray brick/stone, and even cinder blocks.


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## traction fan

etpelle said:


> Brand new to this (weeks) and i built and painted my first buildings (N) but have questions.
> 
> 1. How do you choose color schemes? I don't want to keep doing brick red, and which reds do you use.
> 2. Right now my palette is limited (badger model flex structures & weathering sets). What colors/brand to have on hand?
> 3. I think i am okay at weathering with the powder, but am afraid to do the brick grouting techniques i've been seeing. Mostly paining white wash over and then wiping off. Also i have built all the structures is better to have painted and grouted before gluing? If so i guess it's too late now)
> 
> here is what i have done so far:
> 
> View attachment 578866
> View attachment 578867


etpelle;

Your models look quite good as they are. Most brick structures did use red brick, so having several red brick structures is actually quite realistic. There were other colors of brick, including the lighter & darker reds and brownstone colors that you have used. Bricks usually started out looking like one of the two reds you have. However, sun, rain, city dirt, soot, etc. weathered older brick buildings to a softer, almost pink, red. The soot & dirt tended to darken the brick color. The bricks of some older slum buildings were very dirty indeed. Brick buildings were sometimes painted as well. In that case, just about any color might have been used, depending on the owner's wishes, taste, or lack thereof. One common thing on many urban brick structures was large painted on signs. This gives a great look to model structures. You can buy decal paper designed to be used in an ink jet printer. This lets you shrink a larger image down to scale size and print one large decal that can fill most of a structures wall. Use Solvaset or Micro Set to soften the decal and slowly & carefully get some of the decal down into the mortar lines between bricks. It will probably require two, or more applications of setting solution and some poking with a pin or brand new #11 blade in an X-acto knife, to get the decal to settle. Take your time, be patient, and you will end up with a nice looking model that looks different than the others. I have also used the joint compound for mortar lines that JeffHurl recommended. It was used on the retaining wall below the mansion in the last photo.

My N-scale layout is set in Seattle in the 1920s, so I needed a lot of brick structures. The photos show some of them. One weathering technique I really like is "painting with chalk." To do this , just dip an artist's paintbrush in plain water and then run the wet brush over a stick of colored chalk. Then brush the water/chalk mixture onto the model. At first you won't see much color at all. When the water evaporates the color will come out. This produces a very subtle & dead flat color effect. Try it. If you don't like the result, water will wash it off. The boxcars on the rail barge were weathered this way.

Good Luck & Have Fun;

Traction Fan 🙂


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## OilValleyRy

So first, I work mostly in HO but tools & techniques are “all-scale.”

I’m a rattle canner. So airbrush brands I cannot help with; but do have a paint related tip below.
Before that: Colors. Rattle can or not, I use dark red, medium brown, sandy tan, medium gray. Sometimes I combine more than one. For example doing sandstone type brick, I paint an orangey color first, then a tan over top, and lightly sand it so the orange shows through just a tiny bit.
Interior sides I almost always paint black.

Mortar lines: I always do this before assembly with walls being flat. My method (there are many) is to use an acrylic wash of white or light gray thinned to about 1 part paint to 3 parts water. I prefer subdued mortar lines over high contrast lines, so mine are very subtle. But structures very near the layout edge I do starker mortar lines, which for es depth perception a bit and adds to realism of scale.

Tip mentioned above: Think about the layers in advance and plan accordingly to reduce interaction between layers of same paint type. If the brick color will be acrylic, you want to use something else or a technique other than a wash for mortar lines. Acrylic is easier to thin, and enamel is easier to get opaque wide area coverage, hence my preferred methods above. Doing a wash of acrylic over acrylic brick color runs a good risk of screwing things up. You could seal each layer, but why incur that extra cost when you can just plan your tools & layers in advance?


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## OilValleyRy

There used to be a building in Dearborn, MI, I think it was the civic center, which had turquoise bricks with black mortar on the outside. It was probably a veneer as they were super glossy and glass like to the touch. More like ceramic tile in brick dimensions. Likely built in the 1930s or 40s. My dad (pushing 80) went to high school dances there in the 50s. The building has since been torn down, alomg with the adjacent Amtrak station….to make room for a performing arts type thing and…condos, naturally.


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## CTValleyRR

Nice looking models. It doesn't actually look like you have any issues.

As others have pointed out, it was not uncommon to paint brick structures, so feel free to do so if you like. Natural bricks come in all sorts of colors from a light tan to deep red, so it's really not wrong to use any color in that range (so long as it's a matte color, not a gloss one). I use Vallejo acrylics, and have 160 different colors (their model color line contains over 250); about a dozen red and as many brown. However, a common mistake made by beginning painters is to assume that only the tints in the bottles are available. In fact, you can mix your own and get just about any color imaginable. Just keep a record of what mix you used (proportions by drops) so that you can mix more for the same structure if necessary. 

As far as mortar lines, there are literally dozens of techniques available; you will have to experiment until you find one that works for you. For me, generally a wash of light gray paint works best, but I've used grout, toothpaste, drywall mud, and full strength paint. If you want to experiment / practice, you can buy sheets of brick-patterned styrene, cut them into smaller squares, and try several different techniques.

I have painted models both ways: paint first, then assemble, and assemble first, then paint. If the natural colors of the model look pretty good, I'm generally not in too much of a rush to get it done, and will often use it unpainted for a while; otherwise, I paint it first.


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## etpelle

I’m getting there the town is getting bigger. I still have to do details, roof etc. the one on the left is a prebuilt one.


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## traction fan

etpelle said:


> I’m getting there the town is getting bigger. I still have to do details, roof etc. the one on the left is a prebuilt one.
> 
> View attachment 579155


Those look really good!

Traction Fan


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## JeffHurl

I agree!

You have a great looking downtown going there!


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## Gramps

Very nice work.


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## etpelle

Finished a few more, put together and rusted some roof details. I haven’t glued them down yet so some fell over when i took the pic. A few more building to do then i can do some more weathering and detail. I don’t like the middle building so i will have do come up with another paint scheme for thatbone. Then i can start on the houses.


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## SF Gal

The storefronts are always fun when you string them together on main street!
Can you invision lighted interiors with goods, counters, and sale associates?!?!
Car parked in front with streetlights and a parking enforcment officer looking at meters along the street.
Steaming manhole covers and smoking chimneys, shoppers streaming off a bus at the corner stop.
Life in small town America when life was simplier and kids were kids.
Looks like you have a talent for presenting your buildings in a realistic manner.will follow your thread here...
Thanks for sharing your progress, I am following ..."NEATO!"


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## etpelle

finished painting and added roof details for all the buildings. I also added a roomette to the auto parts store. Still not happy with the bright red and white building in the middle though.


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## etpelle

Done with painting buildings and now starting on the houses. N scale is tough to paint the white trim. I need a one hair brush. These are walthers n scale houses.


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## JeffHurl

Very nice! You have more patience than I have, lol. Those look great, even really close up! Mine look good from arms length, but not like yours!


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## OilValleyRy

Have you tried priming the walls in white, then masking off the trim & windows before applying the main wall color?

Edit: Model Power makes a great kit called Farm House. It’s similar to but different than the green house you posted. The kit includes an outhouse, a doghouse, and a hand pump water well.


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## traction fan

etpelle said:


> Done with painting buildings and now starting on the houses. N scale is tough to paint the white trim. I need a one hair brush. These are walthers n scale houses.
> 
> View attachment 580060


etpelle;

The easy way to paint windows, doors, & trim (If you're starting out with a kit) is to airbrush all the trim pieces before assembling the kit.
 If you are buying built-up structures, or have already glued your kits together, you won't really need anything as small as a "one hair brush." I paint my N-scale structures trim with a small (but multiple bristle/"hair" ) brush. I'm old, and have hands that sometimes shake too. Their are several problems with painting small details.

Here's a few tips.

1) Use a good quality paint made specifically for painting plastic models. I use Tamiya paint, but there are several other excellent brands too. The paint also needs to be thin enough so that it flows gently off the brush, and onto the model, but not so thin that the spread of the paint becomes uncontrollable. Practice on scraps with different paint thicknesses.

2) Use a good quality small artist's brush. Don't go cheap here. Cheap brushes don't paint well, and will frustrate you.

3) Secure the structure with clamps, a small vise, or weights, so that it can't move.

4) Secure your paintbrush hand by laying your forearm along a stable surface, like a workbench. Also hold the brush hand with your other hand, and try to brace at least one finger of that other hand against the model. 
Why?
To be able to control where the paint goes accurately, you need to minimize the total difference in movement  between your brush hand, and the model. That means that both have to be as still as possible, and any movement that is necessary, should be synchronized between the two.

5) Use the different molded surface levels of the model to your advantage. Exterior window frames are usually molded higher than the exterior wall. By laying the bristle ends of your brush 90 degrees to the length of the window frame, you should be able to slide the brush sideways along the length of the frame leaving paint on the window frame without getting paint on the wall. This is where the thickness of the paint is very important. Paint that is too thin will drool off the window frame and down onto the wall.

6) Use model orientation to your advantage. Its many times more difficult to paint all the details (even on one wall of a structure) with the model always in the same orientation relative to the brush. I find its easier, neater, and faster, to paint all the tops of all the widow frames on a given wall, then turn the model 90 degrees and paint all the left sides of all the frames, and so on. The model still needs to be gripped firmly in each new position. A Panavise tool which rotates in many directions, while holding the model, is very handy for this.

7) Have an "eraser brush" handy. No mater how careful we are, there are bound to be slips where paint gets on the wrong area. I keep a flat, stiff-bristled, brush wet with water, handy. The Tamiya paint I use is alcohol-based, but will wash off with water if caught early. Other brands of model paint may have different chemical bases. Try to use the mildest stuff you can on your eraser brush.

8) Use different bases of paint to your advantage. Sometimes we need to have two different colors, right next to each other, over a wide area. A brick wall is a good example. You may have lots of red bricks interspersed with lots of white mortar lines. If the red paint used on the bricks is the same brand & chemical base as the white paint for the mortar, you may end up with pink bricks and pink mortar!
Instead, I use my alcohol-based Tamiya paint for the red bricks, let it dry, and then use a very thin wash of water-based white craft paint for the mortar. The water won't dissolve the dried alcohol-based red paint. The bricks stay red, and the mortar stays white.

9) "Painting" with chalks. I use sticks of colored chalk for weathering effects on some models. I think this would help you tone down that bright red center building that you're not satisfied with. 
Just dip a small brush in water and drag it along a stick of chalk. then "paint" the water/chalk mixture onto the model. At first, you won't see much effect, but as it dries the chalk color will start to show. Its a subtle, and dead flat finish when dry. If you don't like the results, wash it off with plain water. The freight cars on the float were weathered with "painted on" chalk.

Traction Fan 🙂


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## etpelle

I’m slowing down, but got a couple more painted.


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## SF Gal

Have you considered how are you going to illuminate the interiors of the buildings or even if this is going to be an option?
I sectioned out "rooms" so some windows were lit and others dark....









Just a suggestion. Looks like your painting of the exteriors will keep the light inside from bleeding through the lighter colored plastics.


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## etpelle

SF Gal said:


> Have you considered how are you going to illuminate the interiors of the buildings or even if this is going to be an option?
> I sectioned out "rooms" so some windows were lit and others dark....
> 
> 
> Just a suggestion. Looks like your painting of the exteriors will keep the light inside from bleeding through the lighter colored plastics.



i have some roomette’s for the buildings, but idk what i am going to do for the houses yet.


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## etpelle

Did a few more houses and the train station.


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## Gramps

Looks good!


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## Lemonhawk

When I was young, we lived in a house like the one on the right!


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## SF Gal

Looks like you are gaining quite a collection of structures. 
You should consider competing in the Accessories Contest #2, here on the forum! 
You are really good at structures and would be a shoe in as a potential winner, in the contest.
Those homes you are doing look like some of the Sears homes built in the 50's.
Looking good for sure...


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## etpelle

Added some dock workers to kitt transfer.


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## etpelle

Some more details


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## Gramps

The figures add realism to the buildings. The couple in the Ashby building better move over to the dark room.  Great work!


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## sjm9911

Time to come to my house and build some stuff for me!


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## etpelle

sjm9911 said:


> Time to come to my house and build some stuff for me!


I haven’t even gotten to the train layout yet, but the buildings are pretty fun to make.


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## sjm9911

Sometimes the fun is in building it. Lol.


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## MichaelE

Those structures would certainly have me motivated enough to build a railroad for them. I don't think I could get by on structures alone.


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## etpelle

The hotel is done. There are a couple of problems with it. I forgot to add people to the store, ingot glue on some windows, and i tore the bottom right corner of the lobby roomette.


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## OilValleyRy

That’s pretty cool. I think it needs a hotel sign though. Had you not said it’s a hotel I’d not know it is one. Not a big fan of the seemingly singular color. A prime candidate for a rooftop water tower or even two (for fire suppression & potable water peak usage). Just tossin the idea your way.


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## etpelle

OilValleyRy said:


> That’s pretty cool. I think it needs a hotel sign though. Had you not said it’s a hotel I’d not know it is one. Not a big fan of the seemingly singular color. A prime candidate for a rooftop water tower or even two (for fire suppression & potable water peak usage). Just tossin the idea your way.


after doing the other buildings and not doing real good on detailing the windows i thought with the number of windows my chances of screwing one up was increased. So i opted for single color. I could always change it. It would be alot harder with the glass and stuff in. 

right now there is just a dry transfer that says hotel on the side. I will eventually scratch it off and do a better sign, but that can be added later. I tried to make a sign but it looked too modern. Finding when to stop with details is hard you can just keep going.


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## etpelle

Had to make a concession. I thought the corner tourette building looked more like a bank, but i made it a cafe because you can see two sides. I also used my photo printer to make my own roomette.


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## SF Gal

You are an inspiration, for sure! Just wonderful detail!!!!
I like the idea of making a completed interior and then sliding the assembly into the building too!
Pretty slick! Having said that, I also notice in my own buildings, peering into my H.O. scale building windows is a bit problematic if they aren't big enough or close to the edge of the layout. Also have curtains helps masks some of the interior views. So I get selective on what interiors I do in my buildings where efforts and scene supplies are easier viewed.
Keep the pictures of your magic coming, it's very inspiring for me! 🤩


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## etpelle

SF Gal said:


> You are an inspiration, for sure! Just wonderful detail!!!!
> I like the idea of making a completed interior and then sliding the assembly into the building too!
> Pretty slick! Having said that, I also notice in my own buildings, peering into my H.O. scale building windows is a bit problematic if they aren't big enough or close to the edge of the layout. Also have curtains helps masks some of the interior views. So I get selective on what interiors I do in my buildings where efforts and scene supplies are easier viewed.
> Keep the pictures of your magic coming, it's very inspiring for me! 🤩


Thanks! sometimes i fear i am doing too much for what in the end won’t even be seen. I still haven’t even started the layout yet, but i figure it’s better to go slow than rush for no reason.


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## etpelle

Finished the pharmacy.


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## etpelle

I'm starting to think about the track planand not too sure what i want. I am trying to confine to 30"x54" and i think i want too many things on the layout, but here are a couple of pics. When i started i hadn't even thought about the electrical, but i could do either dc or dcc at this point. I wanted two trains running (passenger and freight). I was going to do dc and just have two separate loops. If i do that i would probably have the freight on the inner so i, but then i would have to put the passenger on the outer and the it would make more sense to put the train station on the outside of the loop. 

I made another plan with two connected loops and a reversing loop. I think it is more interesting, but besides the town i have some houses i would like to get on there too.

In both layouts i would have a tunnel staring at about the 9 o'clock position and going to the 1 or 2 o'clock position. that would give me a hill/slope at the back that i put a road with the houses maybe. If i get rid of the reversing loop i think i would have more real estate.


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## SF Gal

I really love the third track plan, it provides a lot of options for running and storing consists. I would suggest thinking of the future too. You may want to add modular wings, on one side, or the other side of the loop. A future desire to build a boat and dock, a refinery or connect it to a visiting modular hobbiest's module...a added option for future expansion....


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## Old_Hobo

Be mindful that once the train takes the reverse loop, it can never get back to the original route unless you back it up…..and of course, you will need to wire the reverse loop properly so you don’t get a short…..


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## OilValleyRy

I agree that insulated turnouts in 1 or 2 corners would assist with any future expansion.

I agree that if you do 1 reversing loop, you really need 2, or be okay with reversing a train through that big S curve. If you do this, I’d name the town Derailment City.

I have a question: why do you want a reversing loop? To reverse entire trains? Or just to reverse a loco and observation car maybe? 
If turning locos is all you desire, a Wye in town would be better. It would use less space I think, and could serve as an industry lead track too. If for example you could fit a Wye in the 9 o clock location of the 3rd photo, you could have numerous industries in town… And turn locos. Might need too small a radius to fit though, so the High Noon location would work also, making an X that functions as a Y. Just curve the bottom track and add a second industry track, or a switch back arrangement. That would add a great deal of operating interest.


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## OilValleyRy

I whipped up some rudimentary sketches of what I meant about the Wye. I realize it wasn’t requested, but a picture is worth 1,000 words.









This first sketch was what I mentioned being at 9 o clock, but I don’t think your radii and overall layout depth will accommodate it. 
Note that the red track indicates where you would need to be able to reverse power polarity. The spurs off that could be included or not, depending on if you wish to insulate them. 









Wye shaped like an X… but… “Wye” do that when you can take it a step further, as below?









This third sketch is a bit more complex operationally speaking. Again you see the insulated Wye, in a more “do-able” location. One of the spurs is on a switch back, meaning you’d have to use the Wye as a run around track in order to push the car in. The spur at the 3 o clock location I only put in as a consideration that spurs needn’t be only off the Wye lead. As you mentioned a tunnel, this may not be desirable. 
Perhaps what is of interest to you is the possibility at 9 o clock of the yard siding being double ended (I left a gap to imply it as a possibility but should have just connected it to better illustrate it as not another industry spur). So your local switching train can arrive or depart in either direction. Although in hind sight I would flip the placement of the stub end storage tracks and pull through siding.

If you instead want to reverse entire trains, see if you can get the reverse track to be straight from the 10/11 o clock to the 4/5 o clock. It’s the curves, especially backing through them, that will likely cause derailments in a curvy reverse move.


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## etpelle

Thanks!


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## etpelle

So i am to the point now where i wanted to start landscaping. Since i haven’t done it i bought all the woodland scenics learning kits and attempted to make one diorama to practice. I’m half way and was trying to do the water, but didn’t seal the pond good because the realistic water disappeared. I’m not sure if i should just try pouring more after it dries and see if the first application may have sealed any holes or not. I still have to add bushes, trees etc.


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## Conductorkev

Follow the instructions. You need to have it sealed. They say use plaster cloth then use their undercoat. Before pouring the water seal the edges with water effects let dry that will form a block.


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## JeffHurl

Or you could coat the bottom with paintable caulking. Paint then pour


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## sjm9911

etpelle said:


> So i am to the point now where i wanted to start landscaping. Since i haven’t done it i bought all the woodland scenics learning kits and attempted to make one diorama to practice. I’m half way and was trying to do the water, but didn’t seal the pond good because the realistic water disappeared. I’m not sure if i should just try pouring more after it dries and see if the first application may have sealed any holes or not. I still have to add bushes, trees etc.
> 
> View attachment 584605
> 
> 
> View attachment 584608
> View attachment 584607
> 
> View attachment 584606
> 
> View attachment 584604
> 
> View attachment 584603


You made it too realistic it dryed up as it had nothing feeding it


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## etpelle

I i poured another thin layer and it didn’t disappear, so i let it cure and poured another layer and it looks like it is holding. Not sure why it’s piled up around the logs And rocks. I’ll probably pour another 1/8” layer.


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## JeffHurl

That is looking good!


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## Conductorkev

etpelle said:


> I i poured another thin layer and it didn’t disappear, so i let it cure and poured another layer and it looks like it is holding. Not sure why it’s piled up around the logs And rocks. I’ll probably pour another 1/8” layer.
> 
> View attachment 584678


Probably because it's a low spot....


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## OilValleyRy

That does look good. 
I forget the scientific term for it off hand but many liquids get pulled upward where they meet even a non porous surface such as a drinking glass. 
On your next layer(s) try to pour just enough that the liquid stays back inside the “bowl effect” to even things out.


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## Old_Hobo

Capillary action….


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## Lemonhawk

Meniscus is what you are seeing. Virtually impossible to avoid. You might reduce the effect if the pour goes to just under the midway point of the logs. Putting some "rapids" in might also help. I've never done water before so my info on how to reduce the meniscus effect may be off. Bo a lot of Googeling and youtube viewing!


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## OilValleyRy

@Lemonhawk wins a donut. Meniscus (or Menisci for plural) is that resulting effect, made possible by the capillary action process (nod to the Bo). I knew it was something close to “a Greek Manuel.” My brain works (and fails) by word association.


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## etpelle

yes i vaguely remember something about that from school, but never would have come up with it.


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## JeffHurl

I thought you were talking about a part of your knee


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## Gramps

And I think there are capillaries near your meniscus.


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## OilValleyRy

Lol the old high school meniscus injury acting up. Happened in the chem lab, not on the field.


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## etpelle

Slowly getting there. Still,have to do trees and water fall And some more bush stuff hanging off of rocks.


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## etpelle

Should i make tje trees lighter color. It seems like everything is a little to same. I only had a a few colors.


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## JeffHurl

I think you need some dead stuff and maybe some olive green shrubbery.

It's looking great!


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## OilValleyRy

Looking out my window at 100+ trees of varying species, your diorama looks fine. I can specifically identify (outside) Locust Trees, Boxelders, & Buckthorns. They’re all pretty close in color with the Buckthorns a couple shades darker/bluer.
Looks fine. No need to doubt yourself.


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## gunrunnerjohn

Looks great, you could add in a little contrast, but I wouldn't be ashamed of that effort!


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## etpelle

Ok i think this one is finished. I may add some white paint on th pond waves and maybe some fishing line to the fishermen. I also may change the top most tree.


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## etpelle

Made another to try out static grass and roads. The stating grass didn’t work too well for the fields, but did work good for making the tufts. The roads worked out too. I don’t know what to do withe the fields though.


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## OilValleyRy

Cows or horses?


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## MidwestMikeGT

I have seen fields like these but with furrows in them after being harvested for hay. Very nicely done! I am so envious.


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## MidwestMikeGT

etpelle said:


> Ok i think this one is finished. I may add some white paint on th pond waves and maybe some fishing line to the fishermen. I also may change the top most tree.
> 
> View attachment 585702
> 
> 
> View attachment 585700
> 
> 
> View attachment 585701
> 
> 
> View attachment 585703


Beautiful! Hey! Where are the bears?  Just kidding! That is absolutely beautiful!


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## Gramps

Excellent work!


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## etpelle

i started trying to make layout and i found dave vollmer's juniata and charles j. black diamond. I like those, but right now i have alot of kato uni track and i think those two use flex track. i tried to replicate in any rail and came up with these two. I am not sure about the curve in the top part in the first one. In the second one i moved some of the buildings to the bottom, only because i spent alot time on the interiors and would like to be able to see them. i would like to to run a freight train and a passenger train, i have both dc and dcc controllers and engines so i could go either way, but as a beginer i am not sure about wiring. any help/suggestions would be appreciated.


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## Gramps

It doesn't look like there is anything in the track plan that couldn't be done with Unitrack. However, if those are 1 foot squares on the plans, you have a 6x14 foot layout and it will be very difficult, if not impossible, to access the interior of the layout. If they are 6 inch squares you should be OK with N scale.


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## OilValleyRy

I’m curious if the mainline, but not sidings, could be flipped so the curved mainline would be near the grain/cement plant & that double spur area? 
I’d bet with some mainline length tweaking you might be able to squeeze a siding/staging track inside that hill for a 3rd train to park.


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## etpelle

This is the last structure I wanted to do. I didn’t glue the roofs down yet.


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## Chris At FilmWorks

The brick structures looked great. I did the mortar wash after I had painted everything else... you might still be able to.
If you are going to light your plastic structures paint the INSIDE or the building will glow.
One hint. On a model railroad, generally the most visible surface is the roof. One of my best tricks was to paint the roof a dark flat brown and then sift cooking flour over it. Let it dry then brush it off... An added benefit is that it will drive your wife bonkers.


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