# Lead Truck Issue



## Strummer (Jan 6, 2013)

I like to replace the original plastic wheel sets on all my steamers with metal ones, as I think they look so much better. I've done this on a #290, several 302AC's, and just did it again with my newly-aquired 310 K5.
On my other locos there is a mix of original truck frames (stamped metal), and an LBR die cast frame on one of the 302's. For the most part I've been using SSH wheel sets, both scale and hirail. They work just fine, and as I say,look much better than the original wheels.
BUT.....
When I tried this on my 310, I seemed to be getting a shorting problem. I tried changing out the wheels with: the insulated wheels on both sides, then on the same side,all to no avail. I have some plastic (ACE, I believe) wheel sets on it now, and it works fine, but doesn't look as good as the metal ones. (I should add I'm using the original cast truck frame.)

Any suggestions/thoughts/theories?

Mark in (sunny) Oregon


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

I don't know how you have done so on other locos, but on my Flyers, one side is a metal wheel while the other is plastic and the same goes for the other truck, only in reverse of the first truck, so that one side picks up the power from one rail and distributes it back to the other rail. I do not believe you can just change all the wheels to metal unless you are insulating them at the axle somehow.


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## Strummer (Jan 6, 2013)

What I'm referring to here is the lead truck; the one that rides under the cylinders,just behind the pilot,not the tender trucks...

Mark in Oregon


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Sorry...misunderstood. I suppose placing metal wheels there would add some needed weight. Sometimes it seems there is not enough weight on those front ends or the spring is not strong enough to keep it on the track. Adding metal wheels may be a good idea.


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## The New Guy (Mar 11, 2012)

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> Sorry...misunderstood. I suppose placing metal wheels there would add some needed weight. Sometimes it seems there is not enough weight on those front ends or the spring is not strong enough to keep it on the track. Adding metal wheels may be a good idea.


Wouldn't metal wheels on a metal axle through the metal bracket mounted to a metal chassis with a metal rivet cause issues? like shorting? 

Which brings up the next question, what do you mean seem to have a shorting problem? Doesn't run? gets all hot and bothered? bursts into flames? blowing breakers or fuses on the layout? Without a third rail I don't see this working well at all, but I'm a bit fascinated you could do it with other engines. 

I think I'd start with a simple continuity check on your engines that work this way and compare to the one that doesn't. Maybe you just need to isolate the front truck with a nylon bushing? IDK. 

In any event, let us know what you find. There may be others that'll follow your lead on this.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Strummer said:


> I like to replace the original plastic wheel sets on all my steamers with metal ones, as I think they look so much better. I've done this on a #290, several 302AC's, and just did it again with my newly-aquired 310 K5.
> On my other locos there is a mix of original truck frames (stamped metal), and an LBR die cast frame on one of the 302's. For the most part I've been using SSH wheel sets, both scale and hirail. They work just fine, and as I say,look much better than the original wheels.
> BUT.....
> When I tried this on my 310, I seemed to be getting a shorting problem. I tried changing out the wheels with: the insulated wheels on both sides, then on the same side,all to no avail. I have some plastic (ACE, I believe) wheel sets on it now, and it works fine, but doesn't look as good as the metal ones. (I should add I'm using the original cast truck frame.)
> ...


Not calling you out on this but I just can't see this happening. The front leading truck has to be isolated somehow from the engine chassis. The affect you're getting is like taking a screw driver and laying it across the tracks, causing a short.


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## Strummer (Jan 6, 2013)

Apparently I had the insulated wheels on the wrong side. It seems to be ok now, and looks great! Funny how these older (mid-late 40's) engines are so smooth, and quiet; I wonder if having the reverse unit inside a heavy cast boiler (as opposed to a tin or plastic tender shell) might help with the over-all "volume"...?

Mark in Oregon


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Strummer said:


> Apparently I had the insulated wheels on the wrong side. It seems to be ok now, and looks great! Funny how these older (mid-late 40's) engines are so smooth, and quiet; I wonder if having the reverse unit inside a heavy cast boiler (as opposed to a tin or plastic tender shell) might help with the over-all "volume"...?
> 
> Mark in Oregon


Glad you got it sorted out..The late 40's, early 50's, steamers are my favorites..


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## The New Guy (Mar 11, 2012)

Strummer said:


> Apparently I had the insulated wheels on the wrong side...


Do you have a link or a part number/manufacturer? I might just try that too. A new to me 300 has "tinker with me" written all over it, proverbially speaking.


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## Strummer (Jan 6, 2013)

The New Guy said:


> Do you have a link or a part number/manufacturer? I might just try that too. A new to me 300 has "tinker with me" written all over it, proverbially speaking.


Not sure if there IS a "part number"; you might try the LBR website to find the lead truck frame;I don't remember if it came with or without the wheel sets...

As for the wheel sets themselves, I've been purchasing mine (S Scale Helper) through "Sidetracks.net". Tom has a good website, with photos, which helps a newcomer such as myself...

Mark in Oregon


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