# DCC conversion questions



## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

I am planning to go in the direction of DCC. Just need to prepare the fleet. This said I have allot of Athearn Blue Box, cast boiler Mantua steamers and Rivarrossi steamers that for one reason or another I will want to convert (may not be cost effective but I like them and there is something special about some of these that cannot be replaced). I have a few basic questions for this:

Athearn Blue Box:
1. What is the best decoder, both sound and non-sound. I have read 1.3 amp 2 amp peak is what I need, is this correct.
2. I have some with steel wheels and some with brass. I have spare wheels of each. Is one better than the other for DCC?
3. Will metal side-frames be any issue?
4. I plan to flip the motor clips and use electrical tape so the motor cannot contact the frame, this method ok?
5. I have a few can motors on hand with a 2 mm shaft, the Athearn flywheels have a 2.4 mm shaft, how can I make these fit? They are not as strong as the original Athearn but they draw far fewer amps, for short trains they have more than they need.
6. I plan to solder all wires, do I really need a plug?

Mantua Steam:
1. Can this even be done with the pit-man open frame motors?
2. Is there a web page showing how to do this? I have been looking.

Rivarrossi Steam:
1. How do I open a Vanderbuilt tender? I have seen safes that are not this secure.
2. Can the stock motor be reused? If so what is the best decoder?
3. Is the motor isolated already?
4. Can this be done with the Cab Forward?

Rivarrossi GG1:
1. Is the motor already isolated from the trucks?
2. Is there any sound decoder for this? All I can find are Diesel and Steam.

I will be selling much of my collection to fund the DCC conversion. There are some that I just do not want to let go of.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Wow, what a lot of questions! 

Athearn Blue Box:
What is the best decoder? This is a thread subject in itself. I like the Soundtraxx Tsunamis for sound and Lenz for non sound but others will disagree. You need to test your motors with a multimeter to see how many amps they draw and buy accordingly.
As long as the wheels are conductive that's all that matters.
Metal frame trucks are no problem as long as they don't touch the wheels or pick ups.
You can us electrical tape for insulation of a frame. Many prefer Kapton tape which doesn't go gooey come off over time.
Can't comment on the motor issue.
With older Athearn locos you will need to solder your wiring, there will be no plug.

Can't comment on the rest I'm afraid as I don't have experience of them.

Good luck. You just need to ensure you insulate the motor from the frame, once you've done that you'll be fine. Also after you've done a couple you'll find the the rest will be easier. Any probs post on here, with pics if poss.


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

Thank, I know there are allot of questions. I am trying to plan out everything in advance. I have built multiple DC layouts each time attempting to correct pass mistakes. This current layout has been the most solid running due to planning. Planed for over 6 months prior to starting. Hoping this same approach pays of converting to DCC.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Before I converted my BB CW-9 I watched many youtube videos on
converting athearn BB. I watched so many that when I did the
conversion I felt like I had done it before. It came out fine. I also
don't know about putting a $100 decoder in a $30 locomotive but
I did it and I love it. I also have some rivarossis I want to convert but
have not done one yet. Do the BB first. Good one to get your feet wet
with.


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

mopac said:


> I also
> don't know about putting a $100 decoder in a $30 locomotive but
> I did it and I love it.


That thought has crossed my mind too. I will not do this with the everyday blue box that I have. I do have several that are custom paint with a road that you will not get any other way or a few that I want to keep just because I look at them and think I received the parts for those in junk boxes and built them for next to nothing when others gave up. There just are not any modern kits available today that I can say I built. And the new ones are to new to get in a 'lost cause' state that is basically in kit form. I like kits and the closest thing I can find for locomotives is the junk box at shows with a disassembled or abused engine. I guess this is why I rarely buy new anymore when it comes to trains.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I will not be putting many $100 decoders in BBs either. Just a few that I like. I have
been buying locomotives for 25 years or so. I have 85 diesels and 27 steamers. Most 
will never be converted and many I will eventually sell to help pay for decoders. I only
have 4 DCC and sound engines. 2 diesel and 2 steamers. I love all 4 of these and I
know DCC is for me. No regrets here. I really like sound but many of my BBs will get
DCC only. Watch for deals. They are rare but out there. I got a SD40-2 BLI MO-Pac
with DCC and sound for $129 from Trainworld a couple years ago. Same price I have 
in my athearn BB I converted. BLI locos are very nice. I could be happy with DCC and
no sound on most of my locos. Only thing I would miss is blowing the horn. DCC will
bring out and renew your love of model railroading.

Athearn BBs have enough sound without adding it. HaHa.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

mopac said:


> been buying locomotives for 25 years or so. I have 85 diesels and 27 steamers. Only thing I would miss is blowing the horn. DCC will
> bring out and renew your love of model railroading.QUOTE]
> 
> Couldn't agree more!


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Before you order a decoder for any specific older model loco be sure
to do a Stall test on the loco. That will show the highest amp draw thus you
would know to get a more potent decoder...or change the motor
to a more efficient design and use a less costly decoder.

The old Mantua open motors draw near an amp running slowly.
Best to replace with an efficient can motor. I have the number of a man who
stocks efficient low current replacements for those old motors.

Don


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