# Dry rub transfers.



## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Well, I was asked by a friend here to do a thread of dry rub transfers so here goes. I made up a 312 K-5 auxillary tender, and I was waiting on the transfers from Doug Peck.. They came in the mail yesterday. I brought the tender upstairs to get some heat into it.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Here's the 2 tenders I have done, side by side.One is finished, the other one needs the transfers.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

The first thing you do is to make sure all signs of oil, grease, etc, are removed from the shell, even the oil from your fingers can cause problems.Once that is done, place the transfer where you want it. I use a machinists ruler to get it exactly where I want it.Once I have the placement right, I put a piece of scotch-tape over the transfer and tape it to the shell so that it won't move.. One added thought, there is a backer on the transfer, this is removed before placing it on the shell and taping it down.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

To transfer the image to the shell, use a 2b pencil, (remember 2b's), with a rounded tip. I scuff up the tip and make it round. Start rubbing the scotch-tape/stencil with the pencil. It's not pressure that transfers the image, but the heat generated by the rubbing. Keep rubbing the image with your pencil until all of it has transferred to your shell. Now here come's the tricky part. SLOWLY remove the tape and your image should be on the shell. If there is a piece missing, simply fold the transfer back using the tape, and re-rub the missing parts. Keep doing this until everything has transferred














. That's why you use scotch-tape; to keep the transfer in one, exact spot, and to fold back and re-rub any missing pieces.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Pictures are a little out of sequence,lol... sorry.Just repeat the process for the other script. The most important tools you need are the 2b pencil and a GOOD scale or ruler






.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Here's the 2 aux. tenders....If I went too fast on my descriptions






or wasn't clear, please feel free to bombard me with any question... The main thing is to BE PATIENT, and to work SLOWLY. It's easy once you get the hang of it, just like everything else in life. And one more thing, buy extras, don't ask,lol..


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Forgot to add, try not to touch or manhandle the rubs.. I've have some of my engines that have lasted for years.


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

flyernut said:


> Forgot to add, try not to touch or manhandle the rubs.. I've have some of my engines that have lasted for years.


A light coat of Clear Coat sprayed on the tender will protect the dry rub transfers.


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## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

Nice job, came out looking great. I only tried dry transfers once, it didn't end well. I am guilty for all of the reasons you stated; no ruler, no tape, and no patience. Maybe I''ll try again someday.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

BrokeCurmudgeon said:


> A light coat of Clear Coat sprayed on the tender will protect the dry rub transfers.


You have to be careful with the clear coat. I dabbed some dull-coat on a engine I rebuilt, and the dull-coat made the white run, and ruined the job... By the way, this one is yours..


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

flyernut said:


> You have to be careful with the clear coat. I dabbed some dull-coat on a engine I rebuilt, and the dull-coat made the white run, and ruined the job... By the way, this one is yours..


It sure looks nice! I was implying to use a air brush to spray on a light dryish coat. Of course, I will handle mine with care and cherish the fine work Flyernut! As our mutual friend Mopac says, " You da man Flyernut!"


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

BrokeCurmudgeon said:


> It sure looks nice! I was implying to use a air brush to spray on a light dryish coat. Of course, I will handle mine with care and cherish the fine work Flyernut! As our mutual friend Mopac says, " You da man Flyernut!"


You guys are crazy!!:laugh:


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Of coarse we are crazy. Messing with 60 to 70 year old trains. None of us are right, LOL.
I guess Broke is getting an aux. tender. Congrats Broke. Very cool. I have aux. tenders
for my N&W and UP HO steamers. I also have the 2 yellow UP aux. tenders used behind
844, 3985, and 4014. They are very cool. Great job on the instructions for dry rub flyernut. I have a 290 I want to redo. Thanks.

Would it help to heat dry transfer and item you are doing with a hair dryer? Rub and then let cool.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

mopac said:


> Of coarse we are crazy. Messing with 60 to 70 year old trains. None of us are right, LOL.
> I guess Broke is getting an aux. tender. Congrats Broke. Very cool. I have aux. tenders
> for my N&W and UP HO steamers. I also have the 2 yellow UP aux. tenders used behind
> 844, 3985, and 4014. They are very cool. Great job on the instructions for dry rub flyernut. I have a 290 I want to redo. Thanks.
> ...


I wouldn't do that buddy. Just let everything come up to room temperature and you should be all-right... And you're right, we are all crazy messing with these things.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

'Nut,

Very nice descriptive posts; great results.

I'm surprised you're saying it's the "heat" that transfers the decals. I've used dry-rub in the past, rub slowly (with a blunt wood stylus), but I'm under the impression that it's simply the pressure and bond-friction (of decal to train surface) that creates the transfer, rather than any heat itself. Who told you otherwise? I think if you did a very slow rub (with essentially no friction heat), you'd still get an OK transfer.

Do you know if Doug / Portlines offers dry rub decals for Lionel trains? ("Lionel Lines", "New York Central", for example?)

Thanks!

TJ


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

tjcruiser said:


> 'Nut,
> 
> Very nice descriptive posts; great results.
> 
> ...


I don't know if Doug has the transfers for Lionel, but he might know someone who does. I would give him a jingle and ask, he's a super guy. As for the heat and pressure, I was quoting directly from Doug's instruction as to heat and pressure and applying the transfers... Sorry, that's the best I can do buddy.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Thanks, 'Nut. Much appreciated.

TJ


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