# Aluminum passenger cars



## flyernut

Picked up some stuff today at the train show. I bought a set of aluminum cars for $110 bucks for the 3. They are in great shape, with minimal scratching/nicks. My plan is to polish them up, reassemble, and run the dickens out of them. Each unit has 1 coupler broke off but that's not a problem; I have the link couplers, pins, and the tool for assembly. The dome car has a crack in the dome, but again, no worries, repos are out there. I took notice of 5 Royal Blue engines/tenders, and they were immaculate. I could have picked up a 303 set with transformer, 4 cars, and track for $55 bucks but passed. There were a lot of Atlantic's there, and I almost picked up a bunch of 6 for resale on ebay, but I just got there and wanted to see what was available.In running condition I could have gotten them for around $100 bucks.


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## imatt88

Loren,

Nice find!:thumbsup: They are in good shape, too. Congrats


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## tjcruiser

Sweeeeet! Those alum cars always look so classy.

What's the roadbed stuff in your pics? Did AF make a foam roadbed that friction-fit around standard AF S track?

TJ


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## Nuttin But Flyer

That's AC Gilbert rubber roadbed. They made that stuff for years to fit both straight sections and curve. It makes laying track fast for a quick Christmas layout. Both cushions and silences the track. The only issue I have is that it isn't too realistic. But a great idea for its time.

Nice find!! Those will look great polished up. I love these extruded cars. I went and got another set to go with my original set.

And you didn't buy that other stuff? What were you thinking??? 

Where was this show?


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## Kwikster

Nice looking set, good find.

One great product you can use to polish them back up is called Nevr-dull. Available and most autoparts stores. It can be used to restore many things including the grab rails on older steamers. Looks kind of like cotton wadding a little goes a long way.

Carl


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## tjcruiser

Thanks for the roadbed info, Don.

Just out of curiosity, hard to find these days? Brittle with age, or does it hold it's pliability?

TJ


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## Nuttin But Flyer

You know, I've seen a lot at train shows. So it can't be too hard to find the original product. There is also a reproduction roadbed being produced as well. The original was sort of a gray color -- at least mine is. The reproduction is dark charcoal or black. Mine still seems pliable although I would bet it might grow brittle over time, espcially if not packaged properly. Maybe some Armor-All will keep it fresh??


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## tjcruiser

Thanks, Don ... I like that roadbed stuff ...

(Oh ... and the shiny alum pass cars, too!)

TJ


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## Nuttin But Flyer

I'm planning a very small layout for Christmas to show my 1-year old grandson Poppy's trains for the first time. I plan to make use of my rubber roadbed to keep things quick and easy. All I need is space somewhere in the house for a 4' X 8' layout.


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## flyernut

All of my rubber roadbed is still soft and pliable. It's amazing that after all these years, it's still in such good shape. The roadbed comes in black wide-tie, black narrow tie, and gray, wide tie. I also have some of the repo stuff and it's good. I haven't seen any of the roadbed at the last couple of shows I've been to, but at my local train shop, he has several large boxes of the stuff he just got in. Whenever I'm in the area, I stop in and buy some. $2.50 for straight, gray, and $2.00 for curve gray.


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## flyernut

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> That's AC Gilbert rubber roadbed. They made that stuff for years to fit both straight sections and curve. It makes laying track fast for a quick Christmas layout. Both cushions and silences the track. The only issue I have is that it isn't too realistic. But a great idea for its time.
> 
> Nice find!! Those will look great polished up. I love these extruded cars. I went and got another set to go with my original set.
> 
> And you didn't buy that other stuff? What were you thinking???
> 
> Where was this show?


Sorry for the delay buddy. The show was at the Diplomat Party House, on Lyell Ave., Rochester New York.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Oh, certainly not within my driving distance. I like to try to attend different shows. It gets monotonous seeing the same vendors bringing the same stuff at the same inflated prices. I didn't buy it before because it was a piece of crap or too expensive, so I certainly ain't gonna buy it just because we are somewhere else. I like to experience different opportunities at adding to my collection as well as meeting other Flyer enthusiasts.


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## flyernut

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> Oh, certainly not within my driving distance. I like to try to attend different shows. It gets monotonous seeing the same vendors bringing the same stuff at the same inflated prices. I didn't buy it before because it was a piece of crap or too expensive, so I certainly ain't gonna buy it just because we are somewhere else. I like to experience different opportunities at adding to my collection as well as meeting other Flyer enthusiasts.


I feel your pain, my friend.. I have a seller who attends the same shows that I do, and has been for the last 5-8 years. He STILL brings the same stuff to every show that I've been seeing for ever! It gets old, ya know?


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## flyernut

*Aluminum car*

I finished one of the cars I bought on Sunday. Cleaned, polished, oiled, and ran. It looks better in person. I gutted out the interior, removed the diffuser paper, removed the windows, and started to clean up things. I used eye-glass cleaner on the plastic window/silhouettes, and re glued. I fix ed the diffuser paper and re-glued that back. I also had to install a new link coupler, and did it without breaking a few,lol...First time!!...The light works also.Not bad for a 62 yr old toy....Compared with an untouched observation car.


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## flyernut

*Another car being restored*

This is the project of the night, when the wife goes to work and let's me alone. It's another aluminum car I picked up Sunday. Gutted out, new link coupler, and still have to polish it.. I polished a part of it up by hand, but I still have to get serious with it.


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## flyernut

*New addition.*

This came in the mail Monday. Plastic vista dome car. Light works, needs some tlc but nothing broken, missing. Easy fix up.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Looks to be in great shape -- even the chrome-plating. Nice addition.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Are those silhouettes warped or just a tricky camera angle? If so, will you reuse them -- how do you straighten them? What about the shading material -- replacing it? With what?? Otherwise the car body looks great. A quick polish and it should gleem!!


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## tjcruiser

Looks great.

I didn't reallize that the windows/people were two seperate sheets of film/paper.

TJ


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## tjcruiser

'Nut,

Maybe we should merge this with your Aluminum Passenger cars thread? You have three different threads going ... I'm going to merge at least two of them.

(OK .. I did it ... 4 threads merged into one.  Much easier to track things that way.)

TJ


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## flyernut

Fine with me...


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## tjcruiser

You're like a squirrel burying nuts all over the yard! Stick 'em all in one tree, will ya'?!?

 :thumbsup:


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## flyernut

tjcruiser said:


> You're like a squirrel burying nuts all over the yard! Stick 'em all in one tree, will ya'?!?
> 
> :thumbsup:


But I like nuts, I'm here, ain't I??? And I like trees too; they burn so nicely...


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## flyernut

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> Are those silhouettes warped or just a tricky camera angle? If so, will you reuse them -- how do you straighten them? What about the shading material -- replacing it? With what?? Otherwise the car body looks great. A quick polish and it should gleem!!


The plastic is warped, but it's so thin, I'll just re-glue it better.


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## flyernut

tjcruiser said:


> Looks great.
> 
> I didn't reallize that the windows/people were two seperate sheets of film/paper.
> 
> TJ


Windows and people are one sheet, the "outside" window treatment is glossy, the inside frosted.


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## imatt88

I noticed your inserts were taped in, mine are glued, and I tore a couple up trying to get them out.

I've seen replacement sheets on eBay for the passenger cars. 

That Hamilton car you have, looks like the one I was bidding on...

Eventually, I'm going to have to pick up a couple of sheets for my cars.

Oh well, what you gonna do?


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## flyernut

imatt88 said:


> I noticed your inserts were taped in, mine are glued, and I tore a couple up trying to get them out.
> 
> I've seen replacement sheets on eBay for the passenger cars.
> 
> That Hamilton car you have, looks like the one I was bidding on...
> 
> Eventually, I'm going to have to pick up a couple of sheets for my cars.
> 
> Oh well, what you gonna do?


If you're talking about the 900 series Hamilton car, it was on ebay as a buy it now for $49.95, with no bidders. I came across it with 3 hours to go and the seller knocked it down to $34.95, buy it now.... I bought it then...


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## imatt88

Ah, I see...I was outbid on a similar car..thought it might have been you


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## flyernut

imatt88 said:


> Ah, I see...I was outbid on a similar car..thought it might have been you


If and when you bid on something, let me know and I'll back off. I'll do that for anyone here on the forum. I'd rather make and keep a few good friends than to screw someone here on something they really needed or wanted.Just let me know the item and I'll stay away.


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## imatt88

Thats cool, I'd do the same as well.:thumbsup:

My eBay name is the same as here


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## flyernut

I semi-finished the observation car tonight. Polished, new link coupler, and re-glue on the people/windows. The rear of the car is not on yet as I've ordered a bunch of stuff from Port Lines this afternoon, and I need the parts to finish the ob. car and the Vista dome car. So now it's just a waiting game. I picked up some great original flyer track from the show Sunday, and I'll just bide my time doing some clean-up on those. It's funny, but you have to watch your vendors. I paid $15 bucks for 20 nice straight tracks, and on the way out, I stopped at a vendor I do some business with, and he had a nice lot of 10 straights for $3 bucks. Go figure....


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## tjcruiser

Oh ...

... just noticing those last two cars are joined by an articulating truck. Cool!

Looking nice!

TJ


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## Nuttin But Flyer

They look great! What type of glue did you use to replace the silhouettes? And when you added the shaded insert, did you glue it or simply place it inside?


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Ian -- I believe Port Lines sells repro people silhouettes for these style coaches in case you need some.


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## flyernut

I just used small dabs from my hot glue gun, and I also hot-glued the diffuser paper in the shell.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Gotta get me one of those -- maybe Santa??


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## markjs

Forty years ago I bought a set of aluminum passenger cars, a circus car in the original box, and a crane car for $25.00! The cars need polishing. Three questions: 1) What do you polish your aluminum cars with? 2) I bought the link coupler repair tool. However the directions don't mention which part is for removing the pins and which is for installing them. Can you help me out? 3) Also as a novice with no experience, will I break the couplers until I get the hang of it? Any suggestion for avoiding damage?

Thanks,
Mark


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## flyernut

markjs said:


> Forty years ago I bought a set of aluminum passenger cars, a circus car in the original box, and a crane car for $25.00! The cars need polishing. Three questions: 1) What do you polish your aluminum cars with? 2) I bought the link coupler repair tool. However the directions don't mention which part is for removing the pins and which is for installing them. Can you help me out? 3) Also as a novice with no experience, will I break the couplers until I get the hang of it? Any suggestion for avoiding damage?
> 
> Thanks,
> Mark


#1. I use a dremel with a polishing pad on it, along with some polishing abrasive. When it's all done, I use a paste such as Mother' Aluminum Polish 
or Simi-chrome, and finish polish by hand.
#2. The round tube like thing is the removal tool.You place the large broken end of the couple pin over it and whack the long pin with a hammer, or you can do what I do and use a dremel and cut the long pin and sand down the stump until you can whack it with the hammer and drive it out. On some kits you'll also receive a block with holes in it.You put the car on it's side, then put the large end of the broken coupler pin over the hole that it fits, and hit it with a hammer, driving the broken pin into the hole. The large chunk of iron with a hole in the tip and a "star" pattern at the end is the installation tool. This is where you're going to break some link couplers. Get your new link coupler and pin fitted into the truck chassis hole where it mounts. Put the new coupler pin in the hole at the end of the tool.Make sure you have the correct link coupler pin, there are 2 different ones. Now using your third hand, position the entire assembly over the edge of a vice, being careful the weight on the link coupler will not touch the edge of the vice when you hit the end of the installation tool. If it does hit the vice, you'll break the new link coupler. I KNOW!! Hit the end of the tool, squashing down the small tab on the coupler pin. It looks like a small shoulder.Make sure you put some oil into the installation tool hole because it's going to be a bear once you try and get it off. Tap it hard twice, securing the pin but leaving the coupler free to move. It takes a touch. I've done 3 in a row now without any difficulties. Once I figured everything out it's a breeze. I think I broke 3 couplers before I figured out what I was doing wrong.Here's a few lousy pictures..
#1.installation tool
#2.tool with pin
#3pin removal tool from truck
#4 assembled parts
#5 assembled parts hit with tool.
Of course, make any adjustments to the truck tongue before installing new coupler,i.e. bending.


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## markjs

Flyernut,
Thanks for the info. Fortunately, I have only to install new pins; the old ones broke or the link coupler broke or whatever.
Mark


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## Kwikster

Depending on how badly scratched the aluminum is, I prefer Nevr-dull. Works wonders on many metals. The thing about using a Dremel, while effective, is you can get too aggressive. If using a Dremel, I'd practice on some scrap material to get a proper feel before venturing on the actual car. 

Carl


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## Nuttin But Flyer

I think no matter how much info we can pass along, you're going to go through a few couplers and pins before you get the actual hang of how it's done properly. Thankfully both couplers and pins aren't too expensive or hard to get.


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## flyernut

Well, they're all finished. I got my parts from PortLines and installed them, and did a small amount of polishing.They look better in person.. Y'all come over and we can play (I mean operate) trains!!


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## tjcruiser

Great looking passenger set! Very art-deco with that glistening aluminum. Nice rehab!

TJ


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## Nuttin But Flyer

They shine like the top of the Chrysler Building....a line from one of my kid's favorite shows....Annie.

Very nice work.


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## flyernut

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> They shine like the top of the Chrysler Building....a line from one of my kid's favorite shows....Annie.
> 
> Very nice work.


One more came in the mail today, and it's in nicer shape.


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## tjcruiser

flyernut said:


> One more came in the mail today ...




What'do'ya' got? A big giant magnet on your roof suckin' these things in from afar?!?

Oh, wait a minute ... aluminum's not magnetic ...

UFO's then ... yeah ... that's it ... flyin' them in from all over the universe for ya' ...



TJ


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## flyernut

tjcruiser said:


> What'do'ya' got? A big giant magnet on your roof suckin' these things in from afar?!?
> 
> Oh, wait a minute ... aluminum's not magnetic ...
> 
> UFO's then ... yeah ... that's it ... flyin' them in from all over the universe for ya' ...
> 
> 
> 
> TJ


I have a secret pipeline from Area 51!!


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Oh yea, flyernut has a secret location where he gets AF things....I'm convinced it's in a Government-secured secret locale like Area 51, but he won't divulge its location.


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## flyernut

Sorry for the poor picture, but here's my 312AC pulling my 4 aluminum cars.j


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## tjcruiser

Nice.

Question ... I was pulling my Lionel prewar passenger cars for the first time under the Christmas tree the other day. I was delighted to see that the lights on the cars flickered a bit as the pickup bounced over the track. That might drive some people nuts, but to me, it reminded me of real-life flickering when I used to ride the Metro North into Grand Central some years back.

Do your lights flicker at all?

TJ


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## flyernut

tjcruiser said:


> Nice.
> 
> Question ... I was pulling my Lionel prewar passenger cars for the first time under the Christmas tree the other day. I was delighted to see that the lights on the cars flickered a bit as the pickup bounced over the track. That might drive some people nuts, but to me, it reminded me of real-life flickering when I used to ride the Metro North into Grand Central some years back.
> 
> Do your lights flicker at all?
> 
> TJ


All of my lights flicker, whether it be my green, red, aluminum, or chrome plastic passenger cars. Even my cabooses flicker.The reason these look so nice is I have the engine in "neutral", with the power up.


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## markjs

Something I found on the Yahoo S-Trains Group:


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## flyernut

markjs said:


> Something I found on the Yahoo S-Trains Group:


I was going to buy Mother's but it was 3 times the cost of what I used, and it worked just as well.


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