# Scenery glue ... preferences and suggestions



## StevieWonder787 (Apr 27, 2016)

I'm looking for insight on scenery glue.

Should I buy Woodland Scenics pre-mixed scenery glue or create my own concoction, which I assume would be significantly cheaper?

And, if the home mixed version is the way to go, what is the base glue? Elmer's white (there are several versions from School Glue to Glue All)?

And then what would be the water to glue mixture formula? I've heard 3 parts water to 1 part glue.

And, finally, I've heard I should add a few drops of liquid dish soap? How many drops per ounce of mixture?

Do you prefer to brush on or spray on for larger scenery areas (grass)?

Thanks in advance.


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## DarkJester (Aug 13, 2013)

I too would be interested in this.
There must be a magic recipe, some sort of incantation to be read aloud?

Jester


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

You'll get several good responses to your scenery
glue question. There is no 'best' but various guys
have preferences and are happy to help you with them.

I use the regular Elmer's white glue. I've forgotten the
exact ratio of Elmer's to water but it was only slightly
thicker than water. Just a few drops of dish detergent
will be sufficient. It helps the glue mixture penetrate
the surface and the landscaping materials. I used an
'eye dropper' to apply the mixture. It is easy to control
and helps you keep the glue from rails and other sensitive
places. For larger surfaces use a small cheap paint brush
for the application.

For landscaping and ballasting you can use a clear
shaker can spray to 'lock in' the landscaping and
ballast. However, be sure to protect rail tops and
turnouts.

Don


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## Guest (Nov 12, 2018)

I use both Woodland Scenics Scenic Cement because I have it and Elmer's White Glue. I don't have a formula but I thin either glue with water and a little dish detergent. Elmer's requires more water than WS with is already diluted. It's not critical to have an exact mix. The detergent breaks the surface tension of the glue water mix so it easily soaks in to the scenery material.

To apply I use either an eye dropper for smaller areas or an old Elmers bottle for bigger areas. With the Elmer's bottle I can control the amount of glue mixture it dispenses by adjusting the screw cap. Open all the way for more glue mixture or close a little for less. Experiment for a minute or two and you will get the hang of it or just use the eye dropper which is easier to control.

As an alternative you can use 70% Isopropyl Alcohol instead of water and dish detergent. It smells like alcohol for a little while but it's very effective.

If your glue/water/detergent or glue/alcohol mixture is too thick and won't soak in to the scenery material you can apply alcohol with the eye dropper onto the glue sitting on the top and it will soak in. This is a very easy technique. Even if you use too much water or alcohol they will evaporate and the glue will bond the scenery material so don't be afraid of it. Once you try it you'll find it's pretty easy.


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## DennyM (Jan 3, 2016)

I use Elmers glue watered down and full strength. I use it full strength with a small paint brush to cover a large area then put grass or whatever I'm doing. When use the spray bottle on bushes and things like that. I also use a hot glue gun on things I want to set quickly.

























View attachment 471994


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## StevieWonder787 (Apr 27, 2016)

So the alcohol doesn't have a negative impact on the various colorations of the grass or other items?


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## StevieWonder787 (Apr 27, 2016)

Oops ... double post.
Sorry


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## Guest (Nov 13, 2018)

StevieWonder787 said:


> So the alcohol doesn't have a negative impact on the various colorations of the grass or other items?


Nope. I've used alcohol on a lot of scenery without any change in color that I can see. I use 70% alcohol for scenery. I haven't tried 91% for scenery but I have used 91% alcohol as a paint remover.


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## Guest (Nov 13, 2018)

These pictures are from the N scale layout I had a few years ago. I used Woodland Scenics Scenery Cement and 70% alcohol as a wetting agent.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*White Glue*

StevieWonder & Dark jester;

I use and recommend Elmer's Glue All, or generic, full-strength white glue. I DO NOT recommend any brand of "school glue." School glue is intentionally made weaker, in order to be easier to clean up. The normal full-strength glue can be used as is for gluing wood for your layout's benchwork, and as a base for large scenery areas to be covered with dirt, or grass as Denny M. has suggested. I dilute the glue with 5 parts tap water, 1 part glue, and 1 part alcohol. This thinned white glue is used to hold ballast, dirt, grass, and any other scenery material that comes in loose bits that need to be held together. 
While I have not used Woodland Senics scenery cement; I suspect it is like their other products. All are good quality products, but all are grossly overpriced. :rippedhand:
Since white glue does the job very well, and costs a fraction of the price of the Woodland Scenics glue, I use white glue.

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

Does anyone use Matte Medium? I've got a several books that recommend using Matte Medium or provide some recipe that involves matte medium. 

I've got to go look up that recipe, but I remember thinking "that sounds effective and cheap" when I saw it.


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## StevieWonder787 (Apr 27, 2016)

I'm being told on another forum that the Matte Medium is readily available at Hobby Lobby and very reasonable priced.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

Mod Podge makes matte and gloss media, and both are available rather cheaply at Wally's, in the crafts section.

I only use gloss medium over epoxy, the latter setting flat and smooth, so that I can stipple it to create a more natural outdoors water surface.

For scenery glue, I have only used diluted wood glue, the yellow stuff. When it dries, you won't know it was yellow, white, tan, blue, green...it is so dilute that it dries essentially clear in clump foliage, flocking, and in ground foam. I also use it to glue my ballast. I only ever use alcohol to pre-wet the ballast, but use only a couple of drops of dish soap in my glue mix for scenery.










An outdoor diorama: [Note the water]


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## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

StevieWonder787 said:


> I'm being told on another forum that the Matte Medium is readily available at Hobby Lobby and very reasonable priced.


It really is. I think I've got some here. I just haven't gotten far enough (only laying track now) on my layout to try it out. 

In the past when making wargaming scenery I've traditionally used tacky glue or wood glue, though in recent years I've started using CA. CA gave pretty good results, but the expense, fumes and consequences if you screw up mean that I don't want to use it for landscaping of model railroading.


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

I use matte medium diluted 50% with distilled water. We have hard water here. I dribble some isopropyl alcohol on the scenery and then add the glue using an eye dropper. The alcohol breaks down the surface tension of the glue mix and lets it really soak in.


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## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

flyboy2610 said:


> I use matte medium diluted 50% with distilled water. We have hard water here. I dribble some isopropyl alcohol on the scenery and then add the glue using an eye dropper. The alcohol breaks down the surface tension of the glue mix and lets it really soak in.


That's the kind of thing I'm looking for. For war-games scenery the priority was durability-with-handling so you would lay down a thick layer of white glue (or some superglue) and put the scenic materials on top. For railroading I gather that precision and placement is priority so it's recommended to place all the materials exactly where you want them and then fix them in place. Is that correct?


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

There is no set formula; a wide variety of mixes will work.

I mix 1 part acrylic matte medium (available at art supply stores or on-line) with 4 parts distilled or filtered water, and add 1 drop of dishwashing liquid per cup of solution. With this mix, it should be left to sit overnight, as the dishwashing liquid makes the talc come out of the solution. Pour off the adhesive mixture and discard the talc sludge.

For large areas, i use a mister (aim OVER the area and let the mist settle on it, aiming at thd scenery will scatter your materials everywhere). I prewet with 35% alcohol solution (the 70% stuff, diluted 50% with distilled or filtered water. For smaller areas, use a pipette.

As far as colors, the wetting and gluing does darken it slightly, but not objectionably so.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I've used white glue, diluted as said and full strength. I use the shop vac after it dries to see if anything is loose then reglue as needed. Shop vac with panyhose over the end is also a good way to find small screws that may have come out of locos. Or dropped on the layout! Dont over think it.


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