# New to DCC



## wcsjr1 (Dec 10, 2012)

Found a deal I could not refuse on a new Bachmann EZ Command system with an 060 engine. I know a lot of folks prefer other systems but since all but three of my engines are DC I thought I would start out slowly. I have standard Atlas #4, #6 and snap switches. Do they need to be modified? Also I am set up with a dual controller so I can operate more than one train at a time. I have the inner loop isolated from the outer loop and I have the sidings isolated and separately powered. If I run power from the DCC controller to each place I currently have a DC power connection will the system operate without removing the isolation points? The #10 button on the EZ Command is for a non-DCC engine. Intuitively it would seem that I will not be able to run the one DC engine at the same time the DCC engines are running and have them all operate independently. Is that correct or can I actually run a DC engine with a couple of DCC all at the same time. Thank you for your always helpful feedback. Well maybe except for the one time when .......


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

Keep the DC isolated from the DCC track areas. They cannot be mixed or cross connected.

You will not need to do anything with the switches. 

It is not wise to run a DC locomotive and DCC locomotives using the DCC controller, as the Bachmann will let a locomotive "run away" without any control.

Once you get bitten by the DCC bug, there is no turning back. Now, save up some coin and get a Digitrax or NCE controller.


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## jjb727 (Apr 13, 2012)

I was also considering getting that. Someone told me to get the more expensive dcc systems, but my layout isnt permanent.


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## wcsjr1 (Dec 10, 2012)

rrgrassi, thank you. Can I maintain my isolated blocks so I can switch back and fourth from DCC to DC?


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

You can leave the isolated blocks in place so long as you
have DCC power to each of them.

But, as has been warned, use a DPDT switch to determine
which, DCC or DC power is fed to the tracks. Never both
at the same time.

You could, with a great deal of careful attention, power your
ISOLATED outer or inner loop with DCC while DC powers the
other loop. That way you could use both your DCC loco powered
by the DCC controller while a separate power pack controls
the DC locos. But, don't let either one cross over between the
ovals. Personally, I would be nervous doing this, however.
A DPDT switch is used to control which power goes to EACH loop.

Enjoy your Bachmann EZ controller. It will serve you well until
your layout grows a lot or you want to run several sound locos.

Don


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## timlange3 (Jan 16, 2013)

You can control one DC loco with a DCC system, it would be address zero (all DC locos would be address zero). With Digitrax the recommend using the N scale power setting so the loco would get less power while sitting. DCC is AC on the rails, to control a DC loco, a bias is introduced, say more + than -, so the DC loco moves forward. The amplitude is always there, so when you idle the DC loco it gets the same amount of + as -. Depending on the electric motor, it may sing at idle or low speed, and or buzz. Most likely it will get warmer than when on regular DC. At around $20 for a decoder, best to convert your favorites first and let the others sit on display.


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

No Problem!! 

I use an NCE for my portable layout. A lot less to connect vs Digitrax. I started w/ a Digitrax Super Chief because I got it used for the same price as the NCE. I switched to NCE because replacing it is way cheaper that replacing a DCS 100.

As stated above, you can keep the isolated blocks.


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## wcsjr1 (Dec 10, 2012)

*illuminated bumpers.*

Everything tracks pretty well so far. I can set up my layout with blocks for DC and then power all the switches with the DCC controller for DCC. I have illuminated bumpers which are great to confirm which siding is powered. What will happen to them when the DCC is connected? Lights on, off or damaged? I know the illumination will not be needed with DCC since each engine is identified individually.

I have several older Kato engines that may be a challenge to convert to DCC. I have a newer Kato and a Proto 2000 that I hope are easier. The Proto 2000 directions says the light bulbs need to be changed so I wonder if that applies to all the engines. It will all be new to me an likely challenge my poor eyesight. Thank you all for your input.


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## timlange3 (Jan 16, 2013)

Don't quite understand what you mean about powering your switches with DCC controller. If you have twin coil switch machines I would tell you to stay with your DC power supply and use the AC accessory terminal to power the switch machines.

Your DCC command station track power output used to control switches may just decide they are shorts and cut power.

HO DC is nominally 0-12 volts, HO DCC is about 18v, N DCC is about 12v. Your lights will work on DCC, but will be brighter on HO DCC. The 18v is a constant voltage, so the lights may not last as long.

As for your engines, some decoders are made for 12v bulbs, some for 1.5v bulbs, buy accordingly.


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## wcsjr1 (Dec 10, 2012)

Sorry that was confusing. I'm not sure of my terminology. I did not mean the turnout/switches but the On/Off switches that control the power to the different blocks of track. For DC I would have two switches that can power three blocks of track each. One for the inner loop and two sidings and the other for the outer loop and two sidings. Using a dual DC transformer I can run two trains at a time and have two others parked on sidings. When I change to the DCC controller I would connect it to both of the switches and have all 6 blocks turned On. At least that is how I see it working.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

wcsjr1 said:


> When I change to the DCC controller I would connect it to both of the switches and have all 6 blocks turned On. At least that is how I see it working.


You are understanding it correctly.

Don


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## Dirtytom (Jan 13, 2014)

Bought the Basic DCC Wiring and now confused? The guy tha wrote it must be Electrical Engineer. Staying with Atlas wiring diagram. Bench work and wiring have been relatively easy. The little shacks and buildings are another question. Bought 30 or so off internet and thought I started with the easy ones????? Have several industries to try.....

DT


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## Dirtytom (Jan 13, 2014)

Forgot pictures. This is my first try at this? Going to be fun.

DT


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

wcsjr1 said:


> Sorry that was confusing.  I'm not sure of my terminology. I did not mean the turnout/switches but the On/Off switches that control the power to the different blocks of track. For DC I would have two switches that can power three blocks of track each. One for the inner loop and two sidings and the other for the outer loop and two sidings. Using a dual DC transformer I can run two trains at a time and have two others parked on sidings. When I change to the DCC controller I would connect it to both of the switches and have all 6 blocks turned On. At least that is how I see it working.


You has got it right.

Just be sure to use Double pole, double throw switches to 
determine, DC or DCC power to the selector switches.

When using DCC you can have all of your selectors set to ON, no
need to have any isolation for it. 

Don


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## Dirtytom (Jan 13, 2014)

Progress today, got the track started and ran locomotive over most of it. Since going DCC left the block switches off. Need suggestions as to scenery. The Super Pretzel does not lend it to much switching? Think about putting RH turnout on last inner loop and running two extra tracks and using one of them for programing? All suggestions are comments really appreciated>

DT


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Very interesting layout. I always enjoy one with crossings and you
have three. Makes for some fun running situations.

You might consider using curved turnouts that would fit into your
existing design, and afford additional industry spurs and the like.

Since you are going to be DCC, consider adding a couple passing sidings
about equal distance apart. This will make possible running 2 trains on
your tracks, in opposite directions. With those crossings, you'll be a very
busy operator.

One of the easy to build scenic effects is a 'cut' where the track runs
between two hills, or in the case of my Southerwestern theme, mesas.

Don

Don


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## Dirtytom (Jan 13, 2014)

thanks for your help---taking the Northern most rerailer out and replacing with left turnout that connects to wye and run two short lines.

Born and raised in south Louisiana and no hills, just bayous and oilfields. Modeling oil facility, derricks and pumping jacks.

Received my NCE and have no idea what do with flat cable? 

Starting my hard wiring tomorrow--old knees may give out.

Thanks

DT


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## Dirtytom (Jan 13, 2014)

Problem with DCC, my diesel said it was DCC ready? The lights come on and the engine makes a humming noise but will not move? Any suggestions..

DT


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## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*noises coming from DCC ready equipment*

from my research, it sounds like it's missing a decoder. It's still in the dc mode. The noise is coming from the dcc source the DCC source is A/C Alternating Current 60Hz. Or a dc simulated sine wave.
If you use a variable dc power supply it most definitely may work.The noise 
comes from the A/C current. A decoder should be installed. Your local hobby store will help you with that.
Regards,tr1


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

DCC ready means it's ready to take a DCC decoder, it doesn't have one yet, it DC right now.
Who made it?
Pull the body and see if it has a 8 pin or 9 pin board in it, Athearn RTR's will have both, that will tell you what decoder you need for it. There is also AT decoders for the Athearn's that replace the entire adapter board.
The adapter boards will have a dummy plug installed in the plug for the decoder, remove the plug and install decoder.


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## Dirtytom (Jan 13, 2014)

Appreciate help---will check for decoder...We have no hobby shops any where near that handles model trains. Seems all around here do planes and trucks...found lots of scenery material at Hobby Lobby.

They have several great shops in Houston but that is 5 hours from my home.

DT


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

As NIMT said, DCC ready is a term the manufacturers use and it
is easily misinterpreted. A decoder for that loco should be
easy to install. If you don't wish to, NIMT would be the man
to talk to.

When you buy a locomotive to run on your DCC layout, look for the
terms, DCC on board, DCC installed, Includes DCC decoder, and
the like. Those will run on your layout right out of the box. When
in doubt, ask the hobby shop for help.

Don


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Dirtytom,
If you give me the model I can tell you how much the decoder would be, I ship decoders all over the world.


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## Dirtytom (Jan 13, 2014)

Had trouble with NCE power pack==all of a sudden the power light stated blinking and no trouble shoot in manual--will try to work on loco tomorrow

thanks

DT


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

It's not a power pack...it's a DCC controller!


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

If The NCE starts rebooting consistently, there is a short where the locomotive is sitting. At least that has been my experience.


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## Dirtytom (Jan 13, 2014)

Had a wire crossed and was getting a short--running good now--say again, benchwork, track and wiring easy----building the models is a pain??? Have 8 Campbell Kits and 10 Woodlands--all slow and very tedious.......went to Hobby Lobby and picked up some ready builts, try to paint and weather

DT


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Building kits, or scratch building is some of the great relaxing
pass time fun of modelling. I find myself making little scenic
things more often than running trains.

It's a lot more enjoyable than crawling under the table to
neaten up the wiring that is haphazrdly strung around now. 

Don


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