# Paved Roads



## RickC (Jan 7, 2019)

I was wondering what others do to make paved roads? I saw some posts on here where they used shingles. I was thinking of trying to paint them with black paint and adding Woodland scenics fine black cinders to the wet paint. That was before I saw the shingles idea.
Rick


----------



## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

In N-scale sandpaper is good for roads. You can get it in various grits to simulate different sized gravel, and in different colors for asphalt, concrete or gravel. With any color of sandpaper, it's suggested to tone it down with a touch of flat gray spray paint or some chalk. Even doing some sanding with it before applying it to the layout will take off that new appearance and lessen the abrasive surface.

That's one suggestion... :smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## PoppetFlatsRR (Jul 29, 2018)

I am going to give the sand paper idea a try this evening. Thanks Fire21


----------



## Cousin Eddie (Jan 4, 2019)

I’m using the tar paper that goes under the shingles on a roof


----------



## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Road surfaces*



RickC said:


> I was wondering what others do to make paved roads? I saw some posts on here where they used shingles. I was thinking of trying to paint them with black paint and adding Woodland scenics fine black cinders to the wet paint. That was before I saw the shingles idea.
> Rick


Rick;

There are many things that can be used for roads. Fire21 has a good suggestion with sandpaper. I would add one thing though. To look realistic, a model road has to start out flat, and remain flat. Since you are likely to fasten the sandpaper to a base with water-based glue (Elmer's type) or paint it with water-based paint. (craft paint or many model paints) or water might get on your roads from other scenery building; be sure to use waterproof sandpaper. Normal sandpaper is just that, a sheet of paper, with sand glued to one side. It will wrinkle if it gets wet.
Another thing about sandpaper, like everything else, there a different qualities of sandpaper. The cheap stuff will be more likely to shed it's sand, tear, warp, etc. So spend a little more and get good quality sandpaper. One of the oldest and best brands is 3M. They call their waterproof sandpaper "Wet or Dry."
I highly recommend it.

There are other things to consider. First, like our railroad track, roads need a firm, flat, rigid, base. I make both my track sub-roadbed and the base for my roads the same way. I use 1/4" thick luan plywood for the base, and glue 3/4" x 1/4" pine "beams" all along both sides of the road base, with yellow carpenter's wood glue. This channel-shaped construction is very rigid, and stays flat even if it gets wet. I also paint all the wood base with latex house paint to seal it.

There are also many other options for a road surface, besides sandpaper. Plaster, and sheet styrene, have both been used successfully.

I use dirt. Yup plain old dirt from the back yard, and not just for modeling dirt roads, but also for gravel roads, and asphalt roads. The dirt should be sifted very, very, fine to look good as N-scale road material. I start with a tea strainer and then use a piece of pantyhose fabric to sift out all but the smallest particles. You can also buy fine sifted dirt, or pulverized granite, from commercial gravel dealers. 

This is one reason I don't favor shingles for N-scale roads. The particles on shingles are about 1/32" , or larger, in size. In N-scale they would be rocks six inches across! Not something you'd want to pave a road with. :laugh:

The reverse side of a shingle might work, after all it is tar, but again, I think it might have a surface so rough with giant deep potholes that the N-scale citizens would be pretty angry at their highway, or public works departments! 

That's an advantage for sandpaper. It's available in very fine grit that is much more convincing in a small scale. 

The photo below shows some dirt, and an asphalt-paved road. They are both the same material, dirt. The "asphalt" and white center line are just painted.

regards;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Traction fan is wrong about roads being flat. The aren't. They are crowned in the middle, about a foot higher there than at the shoulders.

As far as materials, try drywall mud. The texture is about right for concrete or asphalt in N scale.


----------



## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

I use rolled roofing material under O gauge track for ballast. I get white material and give it a dark gray wash coat. I think roofing material/shingles would be too coarse for paved roads especially for N scale.

I use craft store ¼” black foam board for some roads. Works OK, but it’s a bit TOO black. Real roads are only black when they are first paved. Recently, I have been using sandpaper for roads. It can be spray painted dark gray or light gray and looks more realistic than the black foam board. I use rubber cement to keep it stuck. I use 80 or 120 grit paper for O scale. You would probably want something with a finer grit for N.


----------



## rrjim1 (Mar 12, 2015)

CTValleyRR said:


> Traction fan is wrong about roads being flat. The aren't. They are crowned in the middle, about a foot higher there than at the shoulders.


1 to 2% slope, for a 15' wide lane at 2% = 3.75". I have never seen a road that had any were near 1 foot of slope.


----------



## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

rrjim1 said:


> 1 to 2% slope, for a 15' wide lane at 2% = 3.75". I have never seen a road that had any were near 1 foot of slope.


LOL, you've never seen some of the streets in my town! Built on a hill (I reckon the snobs had to live higher than their underlings), they didn't bother to totally flatten the roads, so some of them have incredible crowns...the kind that will draw your car over to the curb when it's slick.


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Fire21 said:


> LOL, you've never seen some of the streets in my town! Built on a hill (I reckon the snobs had to live higher than their underlings), they didn't bother to totally flatten the roads, so some of them have incredible crowns...the kind that will draw your car over to the curb when it's slick.


I agree. 1 foot of crown isn't unusual here, either, but in fairness, I miscalculated. I was thinking 2 lanes in each direction, not 2 lanes. But let's not lose the message in the technicality.


----------



## Nikola (Jun 11, 2012)

Depending on scale, the white lines are easily done with White-Out correction tape. It comes with a dispenser, is thin, conforms to what is underneath, and can be weathered or stained with powders.

I am also a fan of using drywall mud for roads as real roads do not have razor straight edges and perfectly even widths. They also have dips and potholes, easily formed or carved/sanded into the joint compound.


----------



## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*small crown*



CTValleyRR said:


> I agree. 1 foot of crown isn't unusual here, either, but in fairness, I miscalculated. I was thinking 2 lanes in each direction, not 2 lanes. But let's not lose the message in the technicality.


CTValley;

I know that real roads have center crowns. On my N-scale two lane road the crown would be 1/32" higher than the edges. I chose not to attempt such a small difference.

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

traction fan said:


> CTValley;
> 
> I know that real roads have center crowns. On my N-scale two lane road the crown would be 1/32" higher than the edges. I chose not to attempt such a small difference.
> 
> Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


No argument, and a good choice. But it may not be the right answer for everyone. I think we should advise what reality is, and let the individual decide what level of realism suits him best.

For myself, I simply made a scraper out of sheet styrene with a slight crown effect, and use this to smooth the surface of the roads as I lay them.


----------

