# Boiler Chassis AF 21107



## rrswede (Jan 6, 2012)

Am seeking a elcheapo boiler chassis for a 21107 to replace one that crumbled from zinc rot. 

Have also posted at a second site.

Thanks, swede


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

rrswede said:


> Am seeking a elcheapo boiler chassis for a 21107 to replace one that crumbled from zinc rot.
> 
> Have also posted at a second site.
> 
> Thanks, swede


Just the chassis, or the wheels too?


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## rrswede (Jan 6, 2012)

flyernut said:


> Just the chassis, or the wheels too?


Just the chassis, flyernut. The chassis swelled, the motor twisted off from the mounting pins.

Thank you for responding, swede


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

rrswede said:


> Just the chassis, flyernut. The chassis swelled, the motor twisted off from the mounting pins.
> 
> Thank you for responding, swede


I may have one, let me check..I have one, smoke gear is included.The chassis should be the same for all Atlantics. If anyone knows different, please respond...


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

There were two different chassis used in the 21107, a two piece and a one piece. Those two should be interchangeable but the 2 piece allows for direct drop in of the drivers. The 21107 has a cab mounted 2-position reverse unit. I am pretty sure it mounts to the rear of the chassis. I am not certain these chassis interchange with a 3 digit chassis, they might.


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## rrswede (Jan 6, 2012)

AmFlyer said:


> There were two different chassis used in the 21107, a two piece and a one piece. Those two should be interchangeable but the 2 piece allows for direct drop in of the drivers. The 21107 has a cab mounted 2-position reverse unit. I am pretty sure it mounts to the rear of the chassis. I am not certain these chassis interchange with a 3 digit chassis, they might.


AmFlyer and flyernut, 

Attached are two photos of the damaged chassis. 

swede


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

That is the two piece chassis. The reverse unit must mount to the motor, not the chassis.


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## rrswede (Jan 6, 2012)

AmFlyer said:


> That is the two piece chassis. The reverse unit must mount to the motor, not the chassis.


AmFlyer and flyernut, 

Here is a photo of the motor, reverse unit and broken mount

swede


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

The chassis I have is from a 302, I don't believe they're the same, according to your pictures...sorry.


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## rrswede (Jan 6, 2012)

flyernut said:


> The chassis I have is from a 302, I don't believe they're the same, according to your pictures...sorry.


Thank you for the response, flyer nut. Yes, the 302 and the two piece 21107 are different but if the dimensions of the chassis are the same with the differences only being the ability to drop the drivers into position on the 21107 as opposed to inserting axles through the chassis on the 302 and utilizing the existing 21107 reverse unit at the rear of the motor, perhaps it would work.

Do any other members have a comment on that?

Thanks, swede


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

You will need a chassis with PullMor drivers and motor mount screwholes that line up with the screws in the drum type commutator motor. I do not know for certain that a 303 chassis will work but it might. A 21105 chassis will work. 21100 and 21106 chassis with the smoke/choo choo unit will work, but not all those engines were made with smoke and choo choo. I do not have one to look at for comparison.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Just my opinion, I would get the correct chassis. 5 digit motors use a different armature than a 3 digit,
grease pans, possible different motor mount holes. Too many things that one uncompatible (could) would blow
the whole thing.


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## rrswede (Jan 6, 2012)

AmFlyer, flyernut, and mopac, thank you all for the various comments. Mopac, you convinced me. For something so inexpensive, it is not worth taking the risk. I'll forget this attempt and see if I can locate a proper but very cheap chassis, only. 

Of course, by doing that, I miss out tinkering, which is half the fun.

I appreciate you guys, Thanks

swede


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Might be best. I based my opinion on an engine I bought on ebay. I consider it a mess.
It runs but with issues. Its a 5 digit loco with a few changes. It has a 3 digit shell. I bought
it as a 303. Only the shell is 303. The armauture and the brush cap has been changed to
a 3 digit. Chassis is a 5 digit. Actually motor runs smooth but the armature really moves
forward and then rear as the screw drive seems to run up and down the axle gear. Has
to be hard on the brush springs. Lots of movement. I do not think seller knew any better.
Let me dig nto it further and find what I paid for it. Can't remember right now. Maybe could
pull the motor and wheels and sell you the chassis cheap. Might take a couple days.

I know what zinc rot is. Common with diecast autos. Never heard of it on a Gilbert loco.
Lucky you.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

That is also the first postwar Gilbert chassis I have seen with zinc rot. Perhaps the metallurgy was changed for the 2 piece units.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Tom, when you say 2 piece, is the second piece the one that holds the wheels on. My chassis has what I call
drop in axles. I can't remember what number we decided my engine was. Seems it ended in a 5.


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## AFGP9 (Apr 8, 2015)

The zinc rot we are all familiar with in regards to Gilbert AF trains was actually a tin, zinc, and lead mixture, or more specifically, Zamak. Tootsie used that material a lot. I suspect Gilbert used the same material since it was a commonly used, cheap material before the refinement of the die cast process. I had a few Tootsie cars from the 30's and early 40's that were made of Zamac. Tootsie made many promotional cars for the 1933 Chicago World's Fair. I had a 1933 Graham car that was passed down to me over the ages from that fair from my grandfather. Imagine my surprise when one day I moved it around in one of my glass display cases and found that the whole right side had disintegrated. Since it was always displayed with the left side showing, I had no idea that the right side was rotted away. I wonder if the alloy Gilbert used was Zamac?

Kenny


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## rrswede (Jan 6, 2012)

mopac said:


> Might be best. I based my opinion on an engine I bought on ebay. I consider it a mess.
> It runs but with issues. Its a 5 digit loco with a few changes. It has a 3 digit shell. I bought
> it as a 303. Only the shell is 303. The armauture and the brush cap has been changed to
> a 3 digit. Chassis is a 5 digit. Actually motor runs smooth but the armature really moves
> ...





mopac said:


> Might be best. I based my opinion on an engine I bought on ebay. I consider it a mess.
> It runs but with issues. Its a 5 digit loco with a few changes. It has a 3 digit shell. I bought
> it as a 303. Only the shell is 303. The armauture and the brush cap has been changed to
> a 3 digit. Chassis is a 5 digit. Actually motor runs smooth but the armature really moves
> ...


Thanks for the feedback. I don't own this locomotive, I just volunteer to repair stuff for the fun of it. I actually was given two of the 21107 locomotives and both had zinc rot and both chassis' were broken at the same spot. I just don't mind spending a couple bucks to salvage and tinker.

swede

swede


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

The 5 digit two piece chassis has a bottom plate that removes so the drivers just drop in. Obviously the main casting of this version is different than the one piece chassis that have never experienced metal failure. Prewar Gilbert boiler shells had bad swelling and failures, some literally crumbled. I do not know if they were specifically Zamac. Postwar Gilbert metal parts were well made.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Swede, sorry, but I have decided to not cannablize my engine. It runs and I have too
much in it to sell the chassis cheap.


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## rrswede (Jan 6, 2012)

Mopac, I would not, and would not expect anyone else to cannibalize a perfectly good motor. One will pop up. 

Thank you, swede


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