# Atlas turntable trouble



## Big Mike (Dec 2, 2011)

I may have already posted something about this and just forgot, or maybe I posted it in a different forum,But I bought a new turntable from Atlas,it did not work, something broken on the inside I guess,ordered another new one,I was broken,Called Atlas to inquier "whats up" ?Ofcourse they just say "send it in for warrenty"so I was wondering if any one else is having ,or heard of any one reporting such problems? .............Mike


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## Norm (Sep 1, 2010)

Mike, I've had a lot of trouble with my Atlas O-Ga turntable. 

One big problem I notified Atlas about was that my Erie (POSTWAR) diesel stops quickly when trying to cross the turntable. I traced the problem down to the WIDTH of the diesel's drive wheels in relation to the rails & plastic platform of the turntable.
Specifically, the width of my Erie diesel's wheels range form 1.640" to 1.698" while the opening in the plastic floor is only 1.582". 

That, plus the metal rails being from 0.0" to 0.036" below the plastic floor causes the diesel to loose contact as it tries to cross the turntable. 

When I contacted Atlas on 6/14/2012 I was told " _ The post war engines do have a wider wheel surface then the more modern ones, I have to play around and see if I can come up with a solution"_.

I haven't heard anything back yet on that.

Another problem involves the "stalling" of the turntable. No problem when it turns CLOCKWISE, but it stops, motor turns with slipping belt, at a few sidings when turning COUNTER-CLOCKWISE.

I haven't been able to get back to Atlas and I hope to do so soon..... I hope.

Norm


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## Big Mike (Dec 2, 2011)

well, I didn't even get to run any locos on mine,one was broken right out of the box,this was the replacement for the one that would not make a complete round in eather dirrection with throwing the belt,it would get to a point and just lock up,still don't know why.
It is a shame that a company like Atlas ,who offers such a nice track ,makes such a flimsey piece of sh== crap,truntable,with just a little better grade of plastic, I think it would be,prolly the best one to get. JMO ofcourse...............Mike


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

A little more on the turntable Mike here,
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=12622

I wonder if shaving the plastic with a dremal would take care of the train stopping on the table?


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## Norm (Sep 1, 2010)

That was my thought too Ed. 

I haven't had the time to try it and have been concentrating on other jobs on the layout.

I have to be in the right frame of mind to get involved with a hand grinder!!

Norm


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## Big Mike (Dec 2, 2011)

Norm said:


> That was my thought too Ed.
> 
> I haven't had the time to try it and have been concentrating on other jobs on the layout.
> 
> ...


 
Let me know how that turns out . ............Mike


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## Big Mike (Dec 2, 2011)

*Turntable update*

Ok, I got one of the Atlas turntables to finelly work,but it is a pain,first I replaced a broken gear to get to even turn ,then the real work began.
I learned that it MUST be perfectlly level,because it is so flimsly and flexable ,the gear will disengauge and lock up.
I cut one layer of homasote,a 30"x30" square out,then Replaced it with a 1/2" piece of high grade ply wood,then I still had to shim it in some points,but it does work now,but only in clock wise direction,Atlas said that was ok,he said they all do that,I say that is not good enough,I will figure it out,also ,like Norm said ,some of the locos drop out of power when on the bridge because the plastic on the outer edge of the outside rails are to high,and no "ground " connection is made.
I am gunna see if the rails can be slid out of the way so I can trim off some of plastic,give the wheels more room.

I will post my results. ................Mike :thumbsup:


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## BWA (Jun 16, 2012)

I wonder if pulling the rails out, and, shimming them up higher might not be an easier fix???


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## Big Mike (Dec 2, 2011)

I though about that,but the rails are fixed in gruves,and so there is no room for a shim,now, if the tabs in the gruves are cut off, maybe then,but now the rails would have to be epoxyed back in some how,and then I'am sure there would be conductivity issures, so I' am not 100% sure at this time,I just got my turntable,I haven't been fighting it as long as some others,but maybe together, we can find a fix for all of our turntable problems....................Mike


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Atlas said that!
They all do that!?
Then they should add that in their description of the turntables features!

That is BS! 

Mine operates clockwise fine, sometimes counter clockwise.


That is the only problem I have with mine, besides some stopping on the bridge.

That is the answer they gave you?!

I think I am going to boycott all their products in all scales!:thumbsdown::thumbsdown:


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## Norm (Sep 1, 2010)

Well Ed, the three of us all have the same problem, CW okay..... CCW No good.
Plus, of course PostWAr Lionel wheels are too wide to make contact on the bridge.

Maybe I should give Atlas another call to see what they might want to do about it?

I'll try that tomorrow afternoon. I have been in contact with one of their tech guys, maybe he can help.

Norm
ps, I have just sent them an email to see what they want to do.

Stay tuned!


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## Big Mike (Dec 2, 2011)

big ed said:


> Atlas said that!
> They all do that!?
> Then they should add that in their description of the turntables features!
> 
> ...


 
yes, that is what he said,and when I told him about the clearence issures on some of the locos,[and BTW its not only PW locos,some of my new locos do it to] he really didn't have a good answer,just said 'well the scale wheel locos don't have that problem" that kinda Peeeeded me off a little bit,I reminded him that most of us run high rail,some like pre and post war trains,then I told him "if you advertise it to run both two and three rail ,it should work with all of them"
In my own opinon,I think Atlas should re-design the turntable,and retro ours,at no cost ofcourse. .............Mike


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I think they will soon be out of business with an attitude like that.
That is not the only problem they have.:thumbsdown:

Just run it clockwise! That takes forever and then sometimes your turned the wrong way.

Maybe the guy you talked to Mike did not know his you know what from his you know what. 

Like I said sometimes mine works OK counter clockwise, it always works fine clockwise. I have not fooled with it, I thought it was just mine as I did have it apart to get a runaway pin or screw ( I forgot what it was now) out from under it once. I thought it was maybe the way I put it back together doing it.
The only other problem is some of the trains stopping on the bridge.
As far as the motor and belt I never had a problem there.
Yet.

Thanks Norm, keep us updated.


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## Norm (Sep 1, 2010)

Ed & Mike, I did receive an email back from Atlas. hwell:

I was advised:

"There is not a major problem with the turn table as our display has been working for ten years now."

That only makes me think something must have changes in the last 10 years??

Considering the work involved to remove the table ..... and to pack it carefully to avoid damage as they advised, & to ship it to them, I offered to let them check out the problem here on my layout as I am not too far from them.

That offer wasn't addressed and but I was (again) advised to send it in so they could see it!

However, as far as the lost contact of PostWar locomotives when moving on the table problem, They have been working on that since last August as best I can remember and I haven't received any solution to the problem from them. 

I (finally) realized my paint scraper might just scrape off enough of the walkway to allow the wheels to contact with the rails and I could forget about using the hand grinder. 

I tried that and now there is NO MORE CONTACT PROBLEM!!

Just FYI, I used a 1" Red Devil paint scraper. It is the one with a black-plastic handle that uses replacement blades # 3166. 

Work very carefully and start pulling on a 45º angle on the plastic you are removing.....just after the start of a plank as it will cut across the "planks" if starting "in the groove" at the beginning of each plank. (ask me how I know ). 

Stop just before getting to the next groove to avoid the scratch across the deck. 

You only need about 2 or 3 passes and it can be done with the table in place without removing it from the base.

By turning the table 180º you can remove the small area you couldn't do at the groove.

So, I don't think I am about ready to mess up my layout and take the chance of shipping damage, etc. as I now have about 20 of the stalls of the table being used with track screwed down through the table base.

Let me know if you guys do come up with the CCW problem. I did add 2 clamps to the "loose" end of the motor-mounting base.....to the table but it only made a slight difference.

Norm


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

How about a picture of the shaving?

Read your thread on the turntable.....I just posted on it.

I wish Mike would have done a search before he started a new thread, then everything would have been together on it in one thread.


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## Norm (Sep 1, 2010)

Ed, a pic of TurnTable, another of closeup of shaved area.

Norm


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

OK thanks that doesn't look too hard to do. All your engines work on it now?
That is what I thought was the problem with mine but was afraid to carve it. You need to do nothing about the middle rail, right?

You think Atlas would have built them like that!

But then again they don't have any problems. 

I see a spot for a custom built roundhouse on your table. :thumbsup:
Or maybe a 2 stall engine house somewhere?


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Norm, by looking at your picture I see that you did the one inside and not the other side?

Do you have to shave the insides or do you think the outside shaving will be enough?

Or did you shave it and I just can't see it?


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## Norm (Sep 1, 2010)

Ed, you caught my mistake, I only meant to carve the "outside" openings. 

I did part of the inside left opening as you saw, then stopped when I remembered only the outside needed carving. 

I haven't tried all my other PostWar engines and I will let you know if I have any that don't work.

BTW, how did you embed the photo into the message???


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Norm said:


> Ed, you caught my mistake, I only meant to carve the "outside" openings.
> 
> I did part of the inside left opening as you saw, then stopped when I remembered only the outside needed carving.
> 
> ...



What I do to post a picture,
1,When your typing your post, look up top & click on the paper clip.
2,That opens a box then click browse.
3,That will open another box find your picture where ever it is in your computer. (say downloads,camera,files wherever your picture is.)
When you find the picture click on it then click open, it will then be in your box where you clicked browse.
4, Then click upload, wait to make sure it uploads. (when you click upload makes sure it uploads you will see where it says uploading then the attachment shows if it uploads, if it doesn't upload it tells you that it failed. Most likely it is too big then.)
5, After it uploads go back to this post box where you are typing and click the paper clip again and click insert attachments.

Your picture should be in the thread.
Note, if the picture won't upload most likely it is too big.


I went back down to the dungeon and the motor turns both way when hooked to the gear? 

Though it still doesn't sound as strong going CCW then it does going CW.

The 2 screws nearest the turntable on the plastic gear housing cover I find it works somewhat better loosened up some.
If I hand crank it still hangs up in spots CCW, I do believe your right about the little stub that slides into the slot is screwing up. I wonder if shaving all the slots would help?

I think the reason it works better in CW is because the motor is stronger in that position.

I tried shimming up the plastic gear housing cover and it worked a little better but still hung up.


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## Norm (Sep 1, 2010)

Thanks Ed, I'll give it a try.









Hey Ed, I think it is working.

Norm


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Now, that's a stable! Are you going to try to build an engine house to enclose all of them?


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## Norm (Sep 1, 2010)

John, I originally thought I would build an engine house but later decided no.

But..... I am near done with the layout and am looking for another project and maybe, just maybe I will take a closer look again. 

I'm also thinking of another level..... but I think it is too crowded and nowhere to place the supports for the second level.

But a more important project is the ends of the bridge on the turntable. 
I have to slightly modify the bridge ENDS as some of the locomotives can't negotiate the bigger curves on some of the sidings without clipping the bridge.

Always something to do on the railroad!

Norm


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

A layout is never done Norm, what are you thinking?


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## Big Mike (Dec 2, 2011)

big ed said:


> How about a picture of the shaving?
> 
> Read your thread on the turntable.....I just posted on it.
> 
> I wish Mike would have done a search before he started a new thread, then everything would have been together on it in one thread.


Sorry Big Ed,for being so dum.


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## Big Mike (Dec 2, 2011)

*turntable*

well,I will tell you how I fixed my connection problems,I used a piece of flat,thin sheet metal flashing,placed it next to the rail so the drimel would not hit it,then very carefully and slowely removed plastic until good contact was made,I used one of my " dummy " locos so I could run it back and forth on the bridge for testing,I could hear the difference once the wheels were on the rails and not part way on the plastic,I then painted the modified bridge with a good grade of model paint. ............Mike


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I didn't say you were "dum". 

I just said that if you searched all of this would be in one spot. 

Does your table hangup in the CCW direction?


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## Big Mike (Dec 2, 2011)

*turn table*

It usta,but I played with it until I zoned in on the " u" under top piece that it hung up on,very carefully lifted it enough to sand off a little piece of plastic slag,[for lack of a better word] that was catching on the main gear,sense the "slag " was only on one edge ,the gear would pass it going clock-wise,but hang it up going counter-clock wise.
I can't say that is what is wrong with all of them ,sense I,m sure you would have seen this when you had yours apart,but this seemed to do mine a world of good,for now any way.
just a tought ,but I wonder after several months of clock-wise play time, if that bur would have come off on its own,prolly not hua? .............Mike


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## Norm (Sep 1, 2010)

Hey Mike..... thanks for heads up!.

I didn't notice any on my table..... but then I wasn't thinking of looking for that. 

I will give it a look-see when I have the top off for re-working the bridge ends.

BTW, did you ever get the ROSS table?

Norm


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## Big Mike (Dec 2, 2011)

No,I gave up on that one,sense I got the Atlas table working now,but I will say sense I started all this turntable nonsense ,I have gathered up a lot of very interesting plans from others who have built turntables in the past,some of these designs look very solid and simple,if the Atlas table fails,or breaks again,I think I will build my own,as far as buing one of those custom built extremlly expensive,but very nice models,OUT OF THE QUESTION..............Mike


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## Norm (Sep 1, 2010)

Mike, please keep us informed as I would like to see what you come up with. 

BTW, I was asked, privately for pic of rest of my layout, so here is a pic of my layout, as of 2-5-2013.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Nice Norm, I like the Plexiglas? protection around the side.
Is your track right on the edge of the table or does it sit in any?

Thanks Mike, I did not examine the gear close I will give mine a look.

What are you loading in the passenger cars? 
Those cars don't look too good going around on that curve, huh?


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## Norm (Sep 1, 2010)

_Nice Norm, I like the Plexiglas? protection around the side.
Is your track right on the edge of the table or does it sit in any?_

Thanks Ed, all the outside track is the same distance from the edge, about 2.5"" as best I can remember. 
what do you think it may be sitting in?? 

_What are you loading in the passenger cars? 
Those cars don't look too good going around on that curve, huh?_

All the passenger cars are empty..... and stationary, "if" I understand your question.....

Norm


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Nice track plan, you can have a number of trains running there.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Norm said:


> _Nice Norm, I like the Plexiglas? protection around the side.
> Is your track right on the edge of the table or does it sit in any?_
> 
> Thanks Ed, all the outside track is the same distance from the edge, about 2.5"" as best I can remember.
> ...



"Sitting in" from the edge.. not at the edge. I now see from the turntable picture the space they "sit in" off the edge. Mine sit, RIGHT on the edge, if I do that with the Plexiglas I would have to mount it further off the table so the trains won't hit it.
I like what you did.:thumbsup:



Are you loading the passenger cars with coal? 

On the curve look where the water tower is, the cars going around it almost looks like a 90 degree angle. Those curves are too tight for those cars, huh?


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## Norm (Sep 1, 2010)

Thanks John, I can run 3 trains at the same time..... or one train over all three layouts, switching as I go. 

Ed, sorry, for some reason my mind was still making arrangements for our upcoming trip to Alaska and I mis-read your question about "sitting in".

And yes the curve on that loop is 0-31, and very tight. Actually ALL curves are 0-31 except the outer (RED) loop that travels along the edge of the board. Seven of the eight (90º) curves on the outer (RED) loop are 0-42. The curve that is 0-31 is necessary as that is all that fits. And magically, as if I designed it..... the locomotives slow down enough for that curve in order to avoid de-railing at the switch that serves as the last piece of the 0-31 curve. The Williams have to go over that switch very S L O W L Y!
BTW the only reason those passenger cars are on that loop is to get them off the outer (RED) loop so I could play with the turntable. They "usually" only run on the outer (RED) loop.

Norm


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## Big Mike (Dec 2, 2011)

norm, that is a very nice layout, i like the clean,accy. packed look,and lots of action,looks like a Lionel catalog photo,or it could be.....again,very nice.:thumbsup::thumbsup:


Mike


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Norm , great layout. You sure fit a lot of action into tha t space. I like the control board with the original controlers. How about a pic of the rail yard ?I think you have one of everything!


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Nevermind, I skipped page 3 by mistake!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I was only kidding about loading them with coal. 

I figured you had a reason for them being on the inside track.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Sorry guys , I mixed this thread up with the other one! Thats why I missed the pic. I hope the three of you can figure the turn table problem out. Sounds like you might be on to something. Good luck!


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

Norm,

Is that a K Line bubbling water tower?

I have one I purchased in the '80's.

On mine, there is a red plastic light on the top of the tank.

An LED fits perfectly inside and lights the top nicely.

If anyone is interrested, I'll post my HowIdidIt.


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## Norm (Sep 1, 2010)

Hi Dave. I believe mine is a Marx tower.  

And YES, please post particulars on adding a red LED to the top. 

Actually, I did convert my (3) FLOODLIGHT towers, with 24 lamps to LED, saving a lot of WATTS. :thumbsup:

Norm


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## Big Mike (Dec 2, 2011)

any one have ,or ever seen a five leged water tower,it looks like a ball on top of five or six legs,the only ones modeled,that I found so far look like an upside down onion on a big stem,ofcourse I see those in real life also, but more of the....I guess older style water towers,I just tought it would be nice to have at least one of the older style towers on my layout............Mike


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