# New member with a quick question, lionel 2065



## Nathan Plemons (Jun 24, 2011)

Hello All! My name is Nathan Plemons, I have been playing with my Lionel model train for as long as I can remember. Recently I dug it out of mothballs and got interested in it again. I restored my father's old 726 Berkshire, it has been missing the front cover and several other pieces since be bought it some 50 years ago. 

Anyway, yesterday I was in a nice little hobby shop and was able to pick up a 4-6-4 Hudson steamer labeled #2065. At first glance she appeared to be in pretty sorry shape, in fact the nickname rust-bucket wouldn't be too far off. The boiler was fairly clean but the wheels and valvegear (which surprisingly is all intact) were pretty rusted. Ultimately though for $40 I could see some serious potential. I stripped her late last night and went to work with rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush. Most of the parts have already made a very big improvement. I was pleased to see that the inside of the loco actually looked pretty good, aside from a serious lack of oil! I cleaned up the motor assembly as best I could and oiled up the axles, gears, and motor shafts, cleaned up the e-unit and low and behold it runs flawlessly! Even the original smoke unit still works. This tells me that the only things wrong with her are cosmetic and I feel like I got a pretty good deal. Just a little bit of care and she's gonna be beautiful again.

With that not so short introduction aside, comes my question. I have not been able to find an exploded parts diagram. For my 726 I found a diagram complete with part numbers which really helped me in my restoration. Does anybody know where I could find such a diagram? If not diagram is available, does anybody know the part number for the handrails for this loco? As far as I can tell these are the only missing parts.

Thanks in advance,

Nathan


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## joe7034 (Feb 3, 2011)

You can check with,Jeff Kane (traintender.com) for the parts that you will need. He seems to have EVERYTHING, good luck
joe


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

try this,

http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/2065.htm


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## Nathan Plemons (Jun 24, 2011)

big ed said:


> try this,
> 
> http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/2065.htm


Perfect! That's exactly what I needed.

You know I'm a member of a Corvette Forum, a Ford Truck Forum, and now a Model Train Forum. It never ceases to amaze me how quickly one can find an answer and how helpful the people are!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Nathan Plemons said:


> Perfect! That's exactly what I needed.
> 
> You know I'm a member of a Corvette Forum, a Ford Truck Forum, and now a Model Train Forum. It never ceases to amaze me how quickly one can find an answer and how helpful the people are!



The part list under the diagram is old original prices.
He has parts though not for that price.
Shop for them, compare with Jeff's prices.

East coast train parts might be of help getting parts too.

http://www.eastcoasttrainparts.com/ECTP Parts List.pdf


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I got to get some paint. I am undecided right now as to what color to do it.

2065 from the dumps,

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=7467&highlight=2065


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

A few of my steam engines, can you tell which one is from the dump?


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## Nathan Plemons (Jun 24, 2011)

Nice collection. I only have 3 currently. I have my father's original 2037 Praire that he got when he was a kid. A few years later he got the 726 Berkshire, and then just yesterday I picked up the 2065. 

I see you have the PRR Turbine. I want one of those too but I haven't found one at the right price yet. Same shop that I got 2065 from had one but he wanted like $300 for it. Figured I'd keep an eye out on ebay and see if I can find one that needs some care for less.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Nathan Plemons said:


> Nice collection. I only have 3 currently. I have my father's original 2037 Praire that he got when he was a kid. A few years later he got the 726 Berkshire, and then just yesterday I picked up the 2065.
> 
> I see you have the PRR Turbine. I want one of those too but I haven't found one at the right price yet. Same shop that I got 2065 from had one but he wanted like $300 for it. Figured I'd keep an eye out on ebay and see if I can find one that needs some care for less.



I got these, here off someone who was getting out of the hobby.
A package deal on Lionel locos and tender....681, 2020, 2025, 2065 and 6466w tender.

I got them all for $275 w/t shipping.
He wanted $295 plus shipping.

I looked for his pictures when he posted but they are gone.

Look around deals come and go quick. Don't be in a hurry and over spend.
I think I got a very good deal on them. They were in great shape too.:thumbsup:


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Big Ed....that looks like O gauge Hudson-topia. That's quite a collection /) /)
-Art


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Artieiii said:


> Big Ed....that looks like O gauge Hudson-topia. That's quite a collection /) /)
> -Art



That is not all of them. :laugh:

I can't remember why I put them there, I did it while I was cleaning up.
They are still sitting there.
One day I will round them all up and take a picture.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Nathan,

I just wanted to chime in and say hello. Great to have you onboard the forum, especially with our old Lionel crew.

Uhh ... that's old Lionel trains ... not old crew!

TJ


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

Big Ed -

Wow - I don't think there is a "smilie" for jaw dropping to floor.

- Paul in AZ


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Nathan,

One other thing ... I think the smoke unit on that old 2065 runs off of smoke pellets. You can buy a simple-to-install conversion kit that will allow the unit to run on modern smoke fluid.

Here's a great how-to thread for conversion on a 2026. I'm not sure, but I think the 2065 may be similar.

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=5580

Cheers,

TJ


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Yes it smokes using pellets. Just put one in don't load it up. One is good till it stops pushing smoke out.

When looking for parts keep in mind that the 665 & 685 & 2056 & 2065 are identical differing only in the design of the boiler front.

Your engine has magnatraction, so refrain from using steel wool on it or your tracks. Watch for loose metal pieces around your tracks while running it or they might end up getting sucked up into the gears.

The 685 & 2055 are identical except for the #'s.


Here is a good Lionel ID site for you, http://www.postwarlionel.com/index.html

A picture of your 2065 on the site.
http://www.postwarlionel.com/cgi-bin/postwar?ITEM=2065

My old (young) lady just purchased a hand held scanner.
I am charging the battery now. After I calibrate it and learn how to scan with it, I will try to add something here for you on the 2065.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Here's maintenance info on the 2065 4-6-4 AT and SF Hudson.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Here's maintenance info on the 2065 4-6-4 AT and SF Hudson.


I beat you to the link John...post #3.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Better late than never.


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## Nathan Plemons (Jun 24, 2011)

Thanks for all the help guys! I converted the smoke unit on my Berkshire to use smoke fluid because the old smoke unit wasn't working. I suppose for the sake of consistency I probably should convert the Hudson, but since the original unit is actually still working, I think I'll just look into getting some pills for it and see how well it does. I hear the fluid works better than the pills, but if it's working and original I can't bring myself to change it until I try it.


Here are a few pictures. First is the Hudson, this is her good side, the valvegear on the other side is in worse shape. You can see the front and rear trucks have some rust remaining as well. After getting her running I hooked her up to a long freight consist and she pulls it well. I think I will call it, "The Spirit of Rustoleum."









Here we have my recently restored Berkshire standing proudly.









And finally here is my 2-6-4 Prairie slightly out of focus and in need of some cosmetic work but running strong. I believe the smoke unit is burned out as well.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

FWIW, I converted a 2026 to the liquid smoke, it's a drop-in replacement for $12.50 from The Train Tender. It smokes up a bunch! I still have the parts from the pill unit, but I couldn't see trying to run it, even though it still worked. The pills deposit some nasty calcium deposits on the locomotive, oil is easy to wipe off.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Are you going to paint the 2065 and the 2037 eventually?

The 726 looks great.:thumbsup:
What paint did you use on it?


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

Nathan Plemons said:


> Thanks for all the help guys! I converted the smoke unit on my Berkshire to use smoke fluid because the old smoke unit wasn't working. I suppose for the sake of consistency I probably should convert the Hudson, but since the original unit is actually still working, I think I'll just look into getting some pills for it and see how well it does. I hear the fluid works better than the pills, but if it's working and original I can't bring myself to change it until I try it.
> 
> 
> Here are a few pictures. First is the Hudson, this is her good side, the valvegear on the other side is in worse shape. You can see the front and rear trucks have some rust remaining as well. After getting her running I hooked her up to a long freight consist and she pulls it well. I think I will call it, "The Spirit of Rustoleum."
> ...


Nathan - 

I like the selection of locomotives. These are "real world" locomotives. Let me explain:

I've seen a few locomotives in parks and what not (not museums and restoration centers), and these look very realistic to the prototypes. Most locomotives in the public hands don't get the the funds or care they deserve, and they sit silent, weathering gracefully. The age shows, but people still love them and hold them dear to their hearts.

The stable you have is very much like that, and I wanted you to know I appreciate them for how they stand now.

- Paul in AZ


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## Nathan Plemons (Jun 24, 2011)

The 726 was pretty rough so I fairly well had to paint it. I just used flat black krylon and several coats of clear krylon over that and have been very happy with the results. On the wheels I used somewhat of a textured finish krylon, hand rubbed bronze or something.

I haven't really made up my mind about the others yet. The 2037 I will probably leave well enough alone on it mainly because it does not have any rust on it. As for the 2065 I am interested in removing the rust but otherwise may leave it alone, as it has been mentioned, one rarely finds a steam locomotive in pristine condition so for realism I may leave them less than perfect.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Hey Bad.... you mean to tell me I should have left this one alone?












Second in from the left.


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## lionellines (May 18, 2011)

Nathan Plemons said:


> The 726 was pretty rough so I fairly well had to paint it. I just used flat black krylon and several coats of clear krylon over that and have been very happy with the results.


Krylon gloss clear or satin clear?


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## Nathan Plemons (Jun 24, 2011)

Satin


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

big ed said:


> Hey Bad.... you mean to tell me I should have left this one alone?
> 
> 
> View attachment 10630
> ...


Sure - if it works, then it's all good. It's personal preference. "Patina" is a big thing in classic car circles right now. I figured it could translate into model railroading - people are weathering rolling stock, right?

Anyway...


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'm afraid I'd have to go with Ed on this one, that "patina" would be gone in a heartbeat if it were mine.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I'm afraid I'd have to go with Ed on this one, that "patina" would be gone in a heartbeat if it were mine.



I did not say one way or the other John.
I hear what he is saying, if that is what you like go with it.

I was just saying that my 2065 from the dumps had just a little to much patina.:laugh:


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Yep, I concur, too much patina.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

You want some patina?


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

There you go - straight out of the Morton Salt Mines.:thumbsup:


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## Nathan Plemons (Jun 24, 2011)

With the help of a dremel tool, a little elbow grease, and some new parts from The Train Tender, I've got her up and looking pretty good. I've got all the rust off the running gear, the paint on the boiler isn't too bad, looks fairly realistic methinks so I probably won't repaint it.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Can I interest you in some alien green paint?:laugh:

It looks good....smoking good.:thumbsup:

Is it smoking good?

Tender?


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## Nathan Plemons (Jun 24, 2011)

Runs well, smokes well. Got it for $40 with no tender. She was rusted and so dry she wouldn't even run.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Nathan,

You might be able to touch up some of the larger paint chips with some thinned flat black paint dabbed on (in tiny amounts) with a toothpick.

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

For "quickie" repairs on black, I use a magic marker. I put it on, then after it starts to dry, smear it with my finger. A couple of applications, and it blends right in.

Obviously, this is not the "pro" repair, but it works pretty well.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

John,

I've tried using a black Sharpie for that, but the Sharpie has a strange "purple" tinge to it at certain light angles. What type of marker are you using for black?

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I use the name brand *Sharpie*. I also wipe them with my finger to dull them and take the shine off after it's on for a couple of seconds. I just did that on an engine here, I don't see any angle that shows purple on it.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I'll try the finger wipe next time.

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

It's a "quick-n-dirty" repair for nicks, I've used it for years.


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## santafe158 (Jul 14, 2010)

Nathan Plemons said:


> I suppose for the sake of consistency I probably should convert the Hudson, but since the original unit is actually still working, I think I'll just look into getting some pills for it and see how well it does. I hear the fluid works better than the pills, but if it's working and original I can't bring myself to change it until I try it.



I know this is an old thread but I have some advice. If you haven't converted the smoke unit yet (and the old one works), you CAN use fluid in the old one. My 736 berkshire smokes better with JT's Megasteam in the original smoke unit than it does with the pills. And those fluid units usually burn out quickly anyway (at least for me they do)

My 736 is the first locomotive in this video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lMXW0OmaNN0


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## Nathan Plemons (Jun 24, 2011)

Well I decided to try the diode trick and was effectively able to slow down the locomotive while keeping decent voltage to the headlight and the smoke unit. It smokes much better now. I have 2 types of smoke fluid currently, Bachman and MTH. This Saturday I am going to visit a hobby shop that's supposed to stock the JT's megasteam, I'll pick up a bottle and give it a shot.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

How many diodes did it take to slow it down sufficiently?


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## Nathan Plemons (Jun 24, 2011)

I used 10, 5 opposite facing pairs. Research online suggested that the voltage drop across a single diode would be around .6-.7 volts. I actually measured only .4 volts across one pair, however, this was a test with no load across the diodes so therefore only a bare minimum of current flow. I'm betting that a load test would show a slightly higher drop. Radio shack didn't have enough rated for 50 volts so I ended up getting the 200's which are bigger than they need to be. Fortunately the 726 has a large open area between the e-unit and the motor.

I also noticed after I got home that I was out of heat shrink so I had to just use electrical tape.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

It looks OK.

It will be easier taking them apart, if you ever have too.

Get a can of liquid tape and just give them a good coating over the tape.
Better then shrink wrap.:thumbsup: Water proof too.

No one is going to see it but you.
(and us) we won't tell.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Nathan & John --

Good thinking on this! Thanks for the idea/tip!

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The drop across a typical silicon diode will increase with current, no-load drops are always a lot less than operating current.

Looks good, and it's functional, that's what counts.

I have to disagree with Ed about using liquid tape over shrinkwrap. I use a lot of shrinkwrap, and it's easy to just cut it away. As far as waterproof, if you need that, you have bigger issues than protecting the diodes!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> The drop across a typical silicon diode will increase with current, no-load drops are always a lot less than operating current.
> 
> Looks good, and it's functional, that's what counts.
> 
> I have to disagree with Ed about using liquid tape over shrinkwrap. I use a lot of shrinkwrap, and it's easy to just cut it away. As far as waterproof, if you need that, you have bigger issues than protecting the diodes!



He said that he used tape so it couldn't hurt, it makes a protective coating on top of the tape.

I said in another post that I have used it instead of shrink wrap. Even if you shrink wrap it, moisture will get in, a little on the ends helps a lot. 

I also was talking about my boat which sees 90% salt water, I use nothing but the goo in my boat.

You never took your Lionel engine in the bath tub with you when you were young to wash it?:laugh:

Or did they only have wooden pull trains back then.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Is that why my old Lionel Scout stopped working? I thought it was the rust inside because the soapsuds didn't rinse out! 

I was actually saying liquid tape vs. shrinkwrap, just didn't come out that way. 

There is no need for "waterproof" in electronic applications like this, it's not a military project.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Is that why my old Lionel Scout stopped working? I thought it was the rust inside because the soapsuds didn't rinse out!
> 
> I was actually saying liquid tape vs. shrinkwrap, just didn't come out that way.
> 
> There is no need for "waterproof" in electronic applications like this, it's not a military project.


I think it is easier to apply the goop. 
But there is nothing wrong with shrink wrap either.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, I do have a real heat gun with the deflector shield, so heat shrink for me is very easy.  I also have invested in a considerable assortment of it for my construction projects.


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