# Replacing missing ties on flex track



## farmhand (Dec 21, 2015)

I obtained a lot of used Atlas HO code 100 flex track with black plastic ties that has missing or broken ties where it had been nailed. I'm not interested in making things perfect. Easy would be nice. Should I lay the track on the cork roadbed and fix the gaps later or fix first? Where do I buy needed supplies? All install tips are welcome


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## D&J Railroad (Oct 4, 2013)

I would cut out any remaining part of the broken tie that is still attached to the rail then lay the track by glueing it down to the cork with pliable adhesive caulk. After the caulk has dried, use ties from unused waste track and file the plates and nails off the tops then slide them under the glued down track. Once you add the ballast it will hold the ties in place.


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## richs75 (Jan 21, 2016)

That sounds correct to me. Exactly what I am doing right now. I used silicone caulk (a small bead, then smoothed out with my finger) to lay my track. After everything dried out and rail joints were sodlered, I used a small file to smooth out the dried caulk. Used a Dremel tool to grind down the tie plates and slid them under the track. They sit a little lower because of the rail joiners thickness, but after ballast I don't think you will notice.


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

richs75 said:


> Used a Dremel tool to grind down the tie plates and slid them under the track. They sit a little lower because of the rail joiners thickness, but after ballast I don't think you will notice.


For ties under rail joiners, I leave them at regular thickness, but remove the nibs (the spike heads), then use a round file to lower the top of the tie under the rail. That way the tie ends look identical.


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## farmhand (Dec 21, 2015)

I was planning on using plane Elmer's white glue so that a little water and I can pull them up. However I've never laid track yet so open to advice.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

I cut out the last tie on my atlas turnouts, the end shaped like a 'D' .. i then filled in with ordinary wooden ties, looks like repair pieces ...


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*caulk yes, Elmers no?*



farmhand said:


> I was planning on using plane Elmer's white glue so that a little water and I can pull them up. However I've never laid track yet so open to advice.


farmhand;

As you know, Elmer's glue is water soluble. That could be a problem if you use it to hold your track down. First of all, Elmer's is for gluing wood, paper and other porous material. It does not adhere very well to plastic, which is non-porous. Most track has plastic ties. Yes, the glue will hold the track(sort of) initially. However at some point you may want to add ballast, dirt, grass, and other scenery materials. These are typically held down by Elmer's glue, diluted with water. As you spray water on the track area, you may break the imperfect, weak, hold that the white glue has on the bottom of those plastic ties.

Caulk, on the other hand, sticks well to both plastic, and wood. It will hold the track firmly in place. It is also waterproof, once it cures. You CAN* remove track that has been laid with caulk. Use only small dabs of caulk about 6-12" apart. Sectional track will need a dab at each end of each section. This will put the caulk under the track ends where they join which is good. The ends need to be held close together, and firmly in alignment. On flex track, having a bit near each joint will have the same benefits; but you'll need a few more dabs along its greater length. After securing the track to the roadbed, you may want to make it look more realistic by painting it. The easiest way would be a spray can of FLAT brown primer. Krylon red oxide primer(Walmart) works well. Don't use much paint. Just a light spray from about 2-3' away should do it. 
Next, you will likely want to ballast the track. This also helps it look more like real track, instead of toy track. Ballast is held in place with dilute white glue. Once it hardens, the ballast will help hold the track in place.
* OK, now I've got great looking track, glued down six ways to Sunday. What if I want to take it up? How can I do that without ruining the track?
Spray the ballast with plenty of water and let it soak for 20 min.
Use an old toothbrush, and/or a shop vac to remove the ballast. Now gently slide a putty knife along under the ties. (Some WD40 on the track and putty knife helps.) The track should peel right up with little or no damage. (If you used the WD40, Clean it off the track with alcohol.)

For this reason, caulk has been a favorite, (though by no means the only) method of mounting track.

Good Luck; 

Traction Fan


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## farmhand (Dec 21, 2015)

*Type of caulk?*

Thanks for everyone's help. We sold the farm allowing us to stay in our home for 5 years. Then we move. So I'm trying to think about how to pull up track as I lay it. (But I have two grandsons who think this is the best project ever!  
Is there a type or brand of caulk I should look for?


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Farmhand.

The key to 'gluing' track is USE VERY LITTLE, regardless of which
type. That way when you move or otherwise want to make a change
a wide flat blade putty knife will loosen the road bed and/or track
easily.

Don


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Basically, I agree with what has been said so far. I'll offer a couple of variations, though, which work better for me and might be worth your consideration.

I would sacrifice one or more pieces of flex track to use as a source of ties. Instead of completely removing all the tie plate and spike head detail, try just filing off the little nubs on the inside that actually hold the rails down. You can slip these back under the rails, and the raised details will help to hold the track in gauge, as well as preserving the look. With foam roadbed, it's simple to compress the roadbed enough to slide the ties back under, even with the raised detail. It might be harder with cork, but it's worth a shot -- if you can't do it, you can always go back and file the whole thing off, but it's tough to put it back one once you file it away. Normally, the slightly lower level of those ties doesn't bother me, but you can shim with a thin piece of styrene or basswood if it does.

For laying track, I use gray DAP adhesive latex caulk. Unlike Traction Fan, though, I lay a 1/8" bead down the centerline, then use one of those fake credit cards you get in the mail to spread it out very thinly over the entire area where the track will be. You could also use a putty knife. Removing it works just like traction fan said. After removing the ballast, spray the track with rubbing alcohol and gently pry it up with a putty knife. You probably can't save the roadbed, but the track will come up without damage.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

I'm curious, I've only seen one comment here even mentioning wood ties. Why is that? Replacing one or two ties is not structurally important for the track, and basswood comes in various sizes that could easily match the existing plastic ties. Since many folks mentioned filing off the spikes and tie plates from plastic ties, you're not really missing any detail by using basswood, and once the ballast is down that detail is unlikely to be noticed anyway. Sure, if you *have* extra plastic ties laying around, use them... but for filler wouldn't the basswood be cheapest and easiest to get?


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

here's an image of wooden track ties added in on my layout ... they were left raw wood to depict repairs, my era is 1890 so ties are eith new or weathered, no creosote black


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Shdwdrgn said:


> I'm curious, I've only seen one comment here even mentioning wood ties. Why is that? Replacing one or two ties is not structurally important for the track, and basswood comes in various sizes that could easily match the existing plastic ties. Since many folks mentioned filing off the spikes and tie plates from plastic ties, you're not really missing any detail by using basswood, and once the ballast is down that detail is unlikely to be noticed anyway. Sure, if you *have* extra plastic ties laying around, use them... but for filler wouldn't the basswood be cheapest and easiest to get?


Unless you're buying pre-cut ties, then you still have to cut them to size, which is a fiddly operation if you want to get them exactly right. Also, the grain in basswood isn't fine enough to match the molded plastic, so you have to add some (like by scraping a hacksaw or razor saw blade over them). And you already mentioned the detail, which as I said previously, I DON'T file off.

For me, I like the detail, which is why I don't really consider using wood ties. But sure, it's an option worth considering, especially if you're not really concerned about the level of detail.


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## farmhand (Dec 21, 2015)

My takeaway so far has been to go ahead and lay the track with missing ties and work out replacing the ties after the track is laid. Because I'm working on cork it will be a little more difficult. 
At this point I would settle for non-obvious differences in the ties to the casual observer. I may get more concerned over time with appearances if this hobby grows on me. Right now I'd like to get trains rolling.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

farmhand said:


> My takeaway so far has been to go ahead and lay the track with missing ties and work out replacing the ties after the track is laid. Because I'm working on cork it will be a little more difficult.
> At this point I would settle for non-obvious differences in the ties to the casual observer. I may get more concerned over time with appearances if this hobby grows on me. Right now I'd like to get trains rolling.


Yep. Right answer.

You can ALWAYS go back and upgrade later as / if your skills and tastes change.


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