# Bachmann switch help



## searstractorfan (May 30, 2011)

Ok, I got 2 bachmann #5 turnout switches, I have them currently setup so they turn out into each other..I jump from the inside set of tracks to the outside is what Im using them for...Now my problem is, like EVERYTHING I have in the way of engines will derail on it that isnt super stupid heavy...I cant run my J class engines across them, my Big Boy can do it, and my Class A's can...ALL my diesels can do it, and 90% of the cars will do it...Even my little switcher style steam engines that dont have front trucks can do them...Even when they are set straigth and you try to run on the line as if they where their, they still trip the engine up..I have a 759 Nickel Plate road, and it will do ok most of the time....Any thoughts here guys? Im lost...My setup is all Bachmann Easy track right now...on a 4x8 plywood board, 3/4in thick...


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## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

By doing that, you've put an 'S' turn in there, something not a lot of equipment likes. You need to use #6 or even #8 turnouts to accommodate the errant ones.


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## searstractorfan (May 30, 2011)

even when Im not using the switch to jump to the inside, the mainline will still jump, is it my switches?these where the straightest switches Ive found...


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## searstractorfan (May 30, 2011)

OH, forgot to mention I do have a peice of prolly 6in straight in between the 2 switches to give the train more room to straighten out....


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## jonyb (Mar 20, 2011)

Look close at the 2 rivets that hold the moving part down. I've got a couple switches like yours, and the rivets are loose, so the track part isn't aligned right, or stands up a little bit. I get derails all the time. Probably gonna switch over to Atlas and get rid of this EZ-garbage.


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

jonyb said:


> Look close at the 2 rivets that hold the moving part down. I've got a couple switches like yours, and the rivets are loose, so the track part isn't aligned right, or stands up a little bit. I get derails all the time. Probably gonna switch over to Atlas and get rid of this EZ-garbage.


Atlas isn't too much better as they also have rivets resulting in somewhat of the same condition. I've replaced all but two of my Atlas switches with Peco switches. They come in two basic types ( Insulfrog) which has an insulated frog and (electrofrog) which the frog is electrified. Both of these types are sold in various sizes. Peco also makes curved switches. 

I have hardly ever had any derailments using any of these. The few derailments that I have had, have always proven to be my fault rather than the switch. And this is running trains through them at all speeds, and with any amount of cars either being pulled or pushed, and with GP, SD, RS and SW type engines (Atlas, Athearn, Kato, Proto and Bachmann -- Single or multi), it's never mattered. 

Most of the very few other type problems I've had with them have been wiring (block/short circuit) issues, but again, these were caused because of carelessness on my part, as I knew better. Of the Peco switches that I have, a few of them I've had now for over 10 years, and they're still working great. Of all the Peco Switches I have (28 total), one broke. A real plus in my book.  

Routerman


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## cabledawg (Nov 30, 2010)

EZ track isnt bad, but it certainly isnt pro-grade stuff.

As jonyb and jz mentioned, take a look at the moving flanges and see if they are misaligned. I had a few that straight out of the package were like that and a small file, needlenose pliers, and a little bit of time tweeking was all it took to fix the problem. Just keep running the trains over the turnouts and making very small adjustments until the loco's run through smoothly.


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## searstractorfan (May 30, 2011)

Can I "smash" the rivet back down and tighten it up some if thats the problem? Im working on the lawn mower right now so I cant go look to see if thats my problem...Thanks guys for the ideas to check...Is the Peco track very expensive? a local place to me has started ordering that in...


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## gc53dfgc (Apr 13, 2010)

I have found a few remidies to Bachmann and other switches. Making sure the frog is smooth and clear of burs iss the first thing. The second is to bend the ends of the switch rails that decide straight or turn and this ends most issues. I have also had some problems where the ends of the rails bow up wards causing derailments . This is simple to fix also. Remove the screws and press down and this ussualy solves it. Also making sure there are no burs on the inside of the rails or where two rails meet will insure a good turnout. This should fix any issues. If you pound the rivets in to much it will cause the rail to no longer move freely and to catch up on things underneath.


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

searstractorfan said:


> Is the Peco track very expensive? a local place to me has started ordering that in...


The Peco switches normally run a little more than do Atlas or Bachmann. Their curved switches run more than their straight ones. But the quality of both their straight and curved switches alike compared to those of Bachmann or Atlas is really something to experience, I kid you not. 

Routerman


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## gc53dfgc (Apr 13, 2010)

Agreed and Shinora is a step up from Peco and trully stunning.


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

gc53dfgc said:


> Agreed and Shinora is a step up from Peco and trully stunning.


Agreed, as I've heard great things about Shinora. But then I haven't had any real problems with my Pecos, (except for that one that broke years ago) so for me when something works really well as it should, I stay with it. But then again, the next time I need an additional switch, I may give Shinora a try, if for no other reason, just to finally see what all the fuss is about. LOL :laugh:

Routerman


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## searstractorfan (May 30, 2011)

Ok thanks guys...Ill try to get them switches pulled out tonight and see if I cant tinker with one and maybe fix it...


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

It's really a shame that you can't go buy a turnout that works well without having to rebuild it. I could see a turnout getting worn after a few years wear and tear but when a new one doesn't work right I wonder just what the heck have I spent my money on. Sure we want the best price for anything we buy but if your going to make a turnout for $10 at least make it so it works or raise the price.
I've had the same problems with my TO's as described above and it just agrivates the heck out of me. However there are so many variables like the wheels and the weight of the car and of course the TO itself that gripes me. Takes a lot of patience and ingenuity to keep a railroad going. Pete


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## searstractorfan (May 30, 2011)

Ya really..I spent over $42 for these 2 turn out...Bachmann EZ track here is kinda pricey...I did some pushing and tightening of the screws and it so far seems to be better...WHen I feel more patient, Ill take them back out and maybe work on bending the rails a little to tighten the fit up, it seems like the lighter cars are just ramping up on them and opening them up...Im thinking when I decide on how the track will run, I will get some Atlas flex track and some Peco turnouts if the price is right and build my track system with that...I dont have any scenery yet so I can still mod stuff as I go...Thanks for the help guys!


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

Like anything else, when one buys turnouts, one expects them to work as advertized. but then this is also true of rolling stock, engines and etc. as well. What it really boils down to is knowing WHAT TO BUY and WHAT NOT TO BUY. Knowing what brands offer good quality merchandise and what brands are passing off mostly junk. But then some brands sell several items that could be considered as top of the line, yet they'll also sell other items that will be nothing more than pricey junk. It CAN get confusing at times.

Routerman


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