# Adding DCC Board to Atlas RS-1



## DCNMA (Nov 16, 2014)

None of my locomotives are DCC equipped because until now I always used DC power. I have no experience adding DCC receivers but I understand it can sometimes be done to get motor control. I'd like to add a receiver to a 10 year old "Classic" Atlas RS-1, can anyone tell me if this unit can be so modified?? Thanks


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## greenmtns (Jul 13, 2014)

Well from the parts listing on the Atlas web site Both RS-1's listed have a light board on the motor. If this is the case converting to DCC is pretty simple. I put a Tsunami board in mine. It just replaced the factory board. You do need to be fairly good with soldering as all the wires will have to be unsoldered from the factory board and resoldered to the new one. Not really very hard. At this point you have the option of sound. Be sure the new board has the correct engine sound ( Alco 539T ) for your engine. It would also be a good idea to get a wire kit from Digitax to get the correct colors so as not to get confused as you go.

This is a link to a video showing a DCC conversion in a Classic RS 1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnpAjdKvv_0

Al


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## thysell (Jun 8, 2013)

I've converted a few and its pretty easy if your vision is good or you have a good magnifying glass! As mentioned you will need to do some fine soldering. The hardest part is creating space for a speaker. Definitly get sound. 

Initially I used MRC boards to save a few dollars. Don't recommend them as you must very carefully remove about 1/32" from each side of the board to get it to fit into the shell. I'm talking about filing the edges of a printed circuit board. This is nuts!

"SoundTraxx Tsunami Decoder 828049 (TSU-AT1000) for Alco 539 Turbocharged Diesel"

The Tsunami AT1000 are great. Hardest part is getting a speaker to fit. You will need to modify one light pipe to make room. When I say modify what I mean is to cut the last 3/8" or so off. This is the part that goes through the shell and to the number boards. You will need to strengthen it be for cutting it so short. I actually use a grinding wheel and slowly remove the last bit of material. Next drill a 1/8" diameter hole into so you can mount an LED into it. The LED will need to be wired back to the board. Don't forget a resistor to protect it. The other light pipe just need to be shortened about 3/8" on the end next to the light. Mount the LED with resitor directly on the board. Others have just eliminated one light pipe and mounted the LED as the head light. I wanted to keep the numbers lit so I figure out a way to keep a small part of the light pipe.

The Tsunami bord comes with a 250 uf capacitor that is about 10 mm in diameter. I replaced it with one that was 6 mm in diameter. This may not be necessary depending on the where you mount the capacitor. I was having trouble getting the shell to mound correctly.

This should leave enough room to put in a rectangular speaker. When I get home I'll look up the part number and try to get some pictures. 

Before getting started, carefully remove the hand rails and set them aside so they don't get damaged.

Go slow and have fun.

Pete


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## thysell (Jun 8, 2013)

The speaker I used was a SoundTraxx 810113 Small Oval Speaker 1.38"x0.63"

Here is what the inside looks like.


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## DCNMA (Nov 16, 2014)

Thanks for the fast and informative responses. I have always been pretty good with a soldering iron so, hopefully, I'll get it done without problems. It will be winter before I do the the work but I plan to post the result.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

DCNMA said:


> None of my locomotives are DCC equipped because until now I always used DC power. I have no experience adding DCC receivers but I understand it can sometimes be done to get motor control. I'd like to add a receiver to a 10 year old "Classic" Atlas RS-1, can anyone tell me if this unit can be so modified?? Thanks


You will need a DCC controller and power supply in addition to the
DECODER for your RS1. I would recommend that you read some of the
instrucrtive threads in ouir DCC forum.

There is a post here on the Forum showing an RS1 that has been
converted to include sound.

Don


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## Grabbem88 (Feb 24, 2012)

When you get crafty you can do it this way


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## greenmtns (Jul 13, 2014)

Hi Grabbem88

I saw your video on your 402 Rutland. What did you do for weights? Cut down the factory ones, skip them altogether, or make your own?

Al


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## Grabbem88 (Feb 24, 2012)

It's frame is the weight on these guys rs3's use weights 

The classics are generally frame weights and not seperate 

Rsd 4/5 rs11's rs3's use seperate weights

Detailing really improves these but the cast frames suck and kill my drill bits


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## bach123479 (Nov 6, 2014)

grabbem, is that a Dew Valley RS-3 in the background?


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## Grabbem88 (Feb 24, 2012)

It was a dew valley rsd 4/5. But alco all the same


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## bach123479 (Nov 6, 2014)

Was that part of an estate sale on eBay no too long ago? If so thats a great catch!


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## Grabbem88 (Feb 24, 2012)

I think it was... I restored added a better speaker and I think it went to Canada ..


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