# My First Kitbash: A Bachmann 2-8-0



## 66272 (Dec 24, 2018)

2018 marked the year I began investing in HO again. Bought some diesels from Atlas, acquired some passenger cars, and began scoping out clubs to join. But it was also the year I endeavored on a quest to successfully kitbash a steam locomotive...or at least, heavily modify one to a unique look. And this thread is where I'll document it.

After over a month of research, I chose a DCC-equipped HO scale Bachmann 2-8-0 to be my subject. I also snagged an extra boiler shell from the Bachmann parts website; this is the shell I'd be making the modifications to.

My initial target appearance was that of Western Maryland's H-9 class, but I'm using that as a base inspiration, not a strict rule. Along the way I've decided to incorporate influences from the Rock Island, Pere Marquette, and Lackawanna.

I hope this project makes its way around the internet to generate some positive discussion, and inspires other younger modelers such as myself to think bigger about their hobby!


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## 66272 (Dec 24, 2018)

I guess above all else I wanted to engine to have a "beefy" look to it when I was done. Also, since it's going to be a freelance kitbash, I decided to make it with tourist/preservation-era steam in mind (think engines like WM 734 or GCR 4960).

I had an old six-axle Mantua tender that I picked up a few years earlier at a train show, so I decided to attempt converting it to an oil tender and eventually pair it with the Bachmann.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

That should look good when you're done. I have a Bachmann 0-6-0 that I converted to a 2-6-0, got rid of the slope-back tender and added a larger one. Still trying to decide what else I want to do with it. I'm not too cracked about the plastic rods around the drivers though. Yours looks like it has full metal, actually functional pieces. You definitely have a better starting point than I did.


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## 66272 (Dec 24, 2018)

Shdwdrgn said:


> That should look good when you're done. I have a Bachmann 0-6-0 that I converted to a 2-6-0, got rid of the slope-back tender and added a larger one.


I have an old N scale 0-6-0 which also has metal rods. I didn't know Bachmann made models with plastic ones!

-
Here are more pictures of the to-be-modded boiler shell and original tender.


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## 66272 (Dec 24, 2018)

First was stripping the tender paint. Left the shell in a tub of 70% rubbing alcohol, taking it out every 30-45 minutes to scrub it with an old toothbrush. It ended up taking a few hours to wear the paint down, way longer than I had expected; managed to get down to the gray primer.

Next I sliced off the molded handrails, since I wanted to install separate ones.


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## 66272 (Dec 24, 2018)

After messing around with the tender I shifted my attention to the engine. I began removing the separate details from the shell I had purchased from the Bachmann store, leaving the original Western Pacific shell as a spare.

Much, much careful attention was taken when removing the parts as some were metal, others plastic. Thankfully nothing broke except the bell, as the glue holding some parts in was incredibly difficult to snap. Sometimes I had to use a small hobby knife to scratch the glued underside of the shell and then pry.

Following removal I stored them all in a little tupperware container.


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## 66272 (Dec 24, 2018)

The to-be-modified boiler shell, with headlight already removed:


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## 66272 (Dec 24, 2018)

Detail part removal:


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## stjames1_53 (Mar 1, 2019)

ruben759 said:


> I have an old N scale 0-6-0 which also has metal rods. I didn't know Bachmann made models with plastic ones!
> 
> -
> Here are more pictures of the to-be-modded boiler shell and original tender.
> ...


My Bachmann 806 Pacific Union has metal rods. I just got it apart today to order the parts I had been looking for, a new undercarriage and front truck. Once I get it put back together, I'll upload and post the "while it looks dead, and "after breathing life back into her," shots. 
BTW, it is an older version............sweet


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## martin t (Mar 24, 2016)

Nice work! :smilie_daumenpos:


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## 66272 (Dec 24, 2018)

Looking forward to pics!


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## 66272 (Dec 24, 2018)

stjames1_53 said:


> My Bachmann 806 Pacific Union has metal rods. I just got it apart today to order the parts I had been looking for, a new undercarriage and front truck. Once I get it put back together, I'll upload and post the "while it looks dead, and "after breathing life back into her," shots.
> BTW, it is an older version............sweet


Best of luck!


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## 66272 (Dec 24, 2018)

Once the boiler was mostly stripped of added details, I took to prepping the shell for the design changes I wanted.

The Western Maryland H-9 class had very short smokestacks and domes, which contributed to the appearance of massive size (and they were already huge!); they also had something called a boiler check valve located directly behind the bell, I found a brass model of one on eBay. Also, Worthington feedwater heaters. Engines #811 and #816 were the primary inspirations.

Plus, they featured sheet metal boiler jackets extended all the way to the front of the smokebox - which in my opinion makes any steam engine look better.

So I drilled holes and sliced off rivets!

At this point in the project I realized the importance of having the right tools at your disposal. I bought my first rotary tool to help with drilling (the Wen 2305 from Amazon), and later picked up new hobby blades as my old ones were dull from all my N scale tomfoolery during high school.


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## 66272 (Dec 24, 2018)

Been a few months since my last post - sorry for the delay, I've made a ton of progress...


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## 66272 (Dec 24, 2018)

My first outing with the rotary tool meant the end of the original Bachmann domes. As you can see, it was an extremely rough edge when done. Nothing a hobby knife, sandpaper, and putty can't fix!


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## 66272 (Dec 24, 2018)

With some careful attention to angles and filing down the cut edges, I was able to get a pretty decent fit for the pieces of dome.

Also shortened the stack while I was at it...a decision I would later regret...but we'll get to that!

I continued shopping around on eBay for brass detail parts, and had some fun one they started coming in the mail...


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## 66272 (Dec 24, 2018)

More pictures:


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

I love projects like this. Have done a lot like this in O gauge. This is good, fun work you are doing.


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## 66272 (Dec 24, 2018)

Thanks Lee!

Once I applied the first round of putty to the domes, I turned my attention to the tender, which I wanted to convert to an oil-burning configuration, a la Grand Canyon 4960.


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## cubalz (Apr 25, 2019)

I am really looking forward to seeing more pictures on your progress. I have been kicking around the idea of doing something like this. Maybe your pics will give me inspiration.


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## 66272 (Dec 24, 2018)

To fill in the gap left by hacking off the coal bunker, I used some styrene sheeting and Loctite. There's actually two sheets glued, one for the surface and one for support underneath. The next step would be to smooth out the cracks with putty. But first...

I don't remember if I mentioned my method for the tender's paint removal - letting it sit in rubbing alcohol and scouring it with a toothbrush, side by side. This was a very tedious process (a couple hours), but it yielded sufficient results. Only thing I had to make sure of was not forgetting and leaving the tender in the alcohol for too long, otherwise it would have eaten into the plastic and destroyed it.

Once I was satisfied with the amount of paint removed, I sanded down the pre-molded rivets on the sides of the tender. My plan was to add my own rivets later via Micro-mark decals.


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## 66272 (Dec 24, 2018)

Stronger alcohol (like 91%) will get you faster results, but again, don't leave it during and forget about it! I used 70% alcohol for the tender.

And in case this wasn't clear you obviously want to do all paint removal and body modifications BEFORE you start gluing on new pieces, to avoid any unnecessary chemical reactions say with the glue and alcohol, potentially weakening or undoing any work you've done.


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## 66272 (Dec 24, 2018)

Hello everyone! Sorry I've kinda dropped off over the past months, an extended hospital visit and school/work stuff sent me into a spiral. But I'm good! The 2-8-0 project is actually COMPLETE; I'm actually using a different tender behind the engine now, due to the die-cast frame of the Mantua one proving especially difficult to work with in terms of electrical conductivity/insulation.

Perhaps one of these days I'll be able to sum up the rest of the work, until then, here's pictures of the completed project: Pennsylvania & Hudson Valley #1060!


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

Looking very nice indeed, good job.
Nice looking layout as well. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Magic


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## MacDaddy55 (Aug 19, 2008)

*Great Work!!*

Hey Ruben...Great job on the 2-8-0 Consolidated and tender!! THAT is what makes this hobby so enjoyable!! Glad to hear your feeling better and Great photo's by the way...you could put this all in the "Your How To Section" of the forum!! Again great work!:thumbsup:


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

Excellent work.


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