# Please explain the different Atlas switches



## joecatch (Dec 16, 2014)

I am considering building my first layout in years, HO scale with Atlas code 83 track. I am looking for a small, 4x8 layout. I have only used code 100 in the past.

I am a beginner and want to use Atlas sectional track. I have used it in the past with excellent results. But I am confused about the different types of switches Atlas makes. What is the differences between Snap and Custom line switches and what should I consider in designing my layout? Thanks.

JC


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

The difference is the curvature of the turn leading away from the track. Snap track is less than 18r and very tight. The custom line you have 4, 6, 8, 10. The higher the number the less tight the curvature is. The larger the resulting radius the less the chance of derailment but it will take more space to turn. I prefer to keep 4 for yard only. I avoid snaps when possible. For mainlines most of mine are 8 as well as the passenger car yards. 

This said I use the Peoc switch equivalents. I have found that the Atlas switches do not hold up well over time. The rivets in the points tend to get loose and cause derailments.


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## joecatch (Dec 16, 2014)

Ok, thanks. I looked at Peco switches and they cost alot more than Atlas. I can't afford them. I also was wondering how you connect the rail joiners as it appears the ties go all the way to the end of the switch??

JC


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

On Atlas sectional track and switches, the last tie is not attached to either rail. Instead, it is attached to the next-to-last tie by short pieces of plastic next to the rails. This leaves just enough room between the last tie and the rail for the rail joiner. The connecting pieces of plastic can be hidden by carefully placed ballast. By doing it this way Atlas avoids having an obvious gap due to an entirely-missing tie.


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

joecatch said:


> Ok, thanks. I looked at Peco switches and they cost alot more than Atlas. I can't afford them. I also was wondering how you connect the rail joiners as it appears the ties go all the way to the end of the switch??
> 
> JC


I thought the same thing with the Atlas switches. Then it cost me more in the long run because they wore out and had to be replaced. I purchased some used Peco ones and they have outlasted the Atlas ones to date. They cost less used. Check online for sales at places like Walthers and you may find some.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Please heed tkruger's advice. Ultimately, this hobby is about how much quality you want and how much you can afford. There is a saying in business: "Low Cost, Rapid Schedule, High Quality. Pick any two." It's not that you can't afford the higher quality turnouts, it's just that buying them would delay your schedule, seemingly to an unacceptable degree.

Consider this, though. Your time has a monetary value, even though you may not think of it that way. One of the most aggrevating and time consuming tasks on a layout is replacing a broken or malfunctioning turnout. It's much easier -- and cheaper in the long run (especially if you count the value of your time) -- to use higher quality materials the first time out.

Now, if you're just going to set up track on a sheet of plywood, this may be less of an issue, but if you decided to go with a layout with full scenery, it's definitely worth your consideration.


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