# Layout wiring



## trains galore (Jul 22, 2013)

Hello all, new here.
I have a few questions about wiring (speciffically for the layout, I know basic electronics.)
1. With, the power feed wires to each bit of track, do you connect them directly back to the power unit? I have them so that each track is connected by two wires to the next track, but the trains stutter, maybe this is why.
2. I have a problem with ''common rail'' (both tracks run while only being powered on one side of the track. I understand i need to isolate the section near the points, but how should I do this? Can you cut the track and connect a switch to make/break the connection, or should I buy an isolating rail? Also, does each side of the track to be isolated need to be cut, or just one?

Thanks in advance, I would appreciate any answers!


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## Carl (Feb 19, 2012)

Are you looking to create a DC or DCC powered layout?


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

trains galore said:


> Hello all, new here.
> I have a few questions about wiring (speciffically for the layout, I know basic electronics.)
> 1. With, the power feed wires to each bit of track, do you connect them directly back to the power unit? I have them so that each track is connected by two wires to the next track, but the trains stutter, maybe this is why.
> 2. I have a problem with ''common rail'' (both tracks run while only being powered on one side of the track. I understand i need to isolate the section near the points, but how should I do this? Can you cut the track and connect a switch to make/break the connection, or should I buy an isolating rail? Also, does each side of the track to be isolated need to be cut, or just one?
> ...


Welcome to the site.
I would first ask what gauge/scale your modeling?
HO?


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

In addition to the questions asked by Carl and Big Ed,
it would be useful to know what type of track you are using
whether sectional or flex track.

A pic or drawing of your layout would also help.

The wiring design could be one way for DC only and
likely another way if you are running DCC.

Are you saying you have soldered wires to EACH section
of track and connected that to the NEXT section? That
seems overkill. Usually, you would have wires for a
section a number of feet long. Those would be connected
to a buss that serves other similar sections. The buss is
connected to the output of your power pack or controller.

If you are wiring for DC you may want to isolate various sections
depending on your layout design. That is done using either
a gap between the rail ends or insulated joiners.

Don


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## trains galore (Jul 22, 2013)

Sorry for the lack of information. It is dc (I constructed the power supply myself) and the gauge is OO. I am using a mixture of flexi and non-flexi track nailed onto the baseboards I will try to post a picture of the track later, but basically no matter how i switch the points i get common return. I think the configuration may not actually be possible. At this stage I am considering using a switch connected to a relay with two seperate sets of contacts so I can disconnect both sides of each track, because if I just use a normal track isolator that only does one side so it could short circuit still. Also should i cut my track so there is a gap between the rails or just go and buy a track isolator?
Could you clarify what a buss is? I just have one set of out puts and then the other feeds just onnect from one track to the next, but maybe i need to do this directly from the supply
Thanks for your help, I have some ideas about what needs to happen already!


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

A buss is a pair of wires connected to the 'track' terminals
on your power pack. Preferably, it would have 2 colors
to aid in maintaining polarity. Then at various points around
your layout 'drop' wires are soldered to both rails, and
connect to this buss.

It doesn't seem you need relays. If you wish to transfer
an isolated section of track from one power pack to another
you would use a DPDT (double pole, double throw) switch. It has
6 terminals. You connect the track to the center. One
power pack connects to terminals on one end, the other
to the remaining terminals. When you throw the switch
track is connect to which ever power pack you select.

You can use a DPDT switch also to reverse polarity in
an isolated section of track. Again the track is connected
to the center terminals. The track current connects to
terminals on one end. You also cross wire from the Left
terminal to the right terminal on the far end. and also
a wire from the Right terminal to the left terminal on the
far end. When you flip this switch the isolated track
polarity is reversed to that of the main track. (to better
visualize: Picture an X ).

It's difficult to have a specific answer to your problems lacking the track layout. 

And not sure what to make of a 'stuttering' locomotive...you mean the
chugs come out as ers and uhs?  Actually, I think you are
saying it does not run smoothly.

From what you've said you could very well have some wires crossed
and that is causing short circuits when you throw a turnout. 

Also not sure of what your 'common' rail might be. If you want to isolate
a certain track you should place an insulated joiner or a gap in BOTH rails.
Each such track would need a wire from power buss to each rail,
of course, maintaining polarity.

Another possibility is that you may have a reverse loop...a single track that
makes a loop and reconnects to itself. This section of track requires
special wiring with special switches and would have to be isolated by
insulators in BOTH RAILS (or a gap cut in both rails) at BOTH ends
of the loop.

And, it is always necessary to have clean wheels and rails so that the wheels can
pick up electricity without interruption. 

As you can tell I'm just tossing out some things to check...there's
not enough information to make good advice.

Don


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## trains galore (Jul 22, 2013)

Thank you. I will try to take a decent picture tonight. From what you have said maybe what i need to do is use isolated joiners up to the points and then use the dpdt switch (have some of those) to select what power feed i want. I mean by stuttering the locos kind of start and stop once I come a certain distance away from the power supply. (Because the power feeds aren't right) Thanks for explaining the buss, I now know I did it wrong (but easy enough to fix, I just have to cut the feed lines and bring them all back to a buss.
Also, what method do you reccomend for connecting the power feed to the track? I solder them but you have to be careful you don't melt the sleepers. 
It sounds like I need to rip up some track and install isolated joints and then switch the power supplies to whatever track i need with a dpdt, rather than messing about with connecting/disconnecting track with relays.
Thanks for the help, I have been trying to find this stuff out for about a year!


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Sounds like you are heading in the right direction.

There are a number of threads here on the Forum describing various
techniques for soldering to the rails. I prefer to tin both the
rail and the drop wire then make a slight bend in the wire end. This
lays on the base of the rail. Just a touch of a soldering iron will
weld the joint and if you are deft enough the ties will remain solid.
Tho many guys think it's poor technique I like to have a dab of solder
on my iron tip that touches the work.

Some guys suggest a wet cotton ball either side of the solder point
to act as a heat sink.

That stuttering you describe sounds more like track and loco wheels in bad
need of cleaning than a faulty wiring job. 

Don


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## trains galore (Jul 22, 2013)

Yes the trains run good on the club layout (they are near new) but they go slowly on mine. However using the track rubber helps alot, I have to clean it all the time, I think it must get dusty very quickly. I'll try the power buss tomorrow and see if that will help.
Thanks for your great advice/help on this.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

A question about the rails on your track. Since the locos run
fine on club track, the suspicion centers on your track. Is it
by any chance brass? This material needs constant
cleaning to keep your trains running smoothly.

Don


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## trains galore (Jul 22, 2013)

Interesting... I think the feed wires will help when I have done them. I'm not sure about the track, it is quite new ( silver colour, don't think they make brass track anymore) however I have a shelf layout, so maybe the track is collecting dust faster. I only run every 2 weeks or so (busy getting other stuff on it working) but every time I do I have to grab the track rubber and go over it. The worst parts are further away from the supply which is why I think the feeds will help when i finish them. I know brass wheels are awful, I have some old tyco diesels that even after fixing the motors they barely run unless you clean the wheels, and if not run for a while you have to try and clean it again. My newer locos run alot better than ones with brass wheels.
Do you have any tips on how to clean these brass wheels? I've tried alot but just can't get them to make good electrical contact. i have heard about wheels cleaners, are these worth getting?
Thanks.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I don't have any brass wheels on my trains...or brass track.

But, wouldn't you clean it the same as other metal wheels.

For locos I moisten a paper towel with alcohol...lay it on the
track...roll the loco (I only have diesels) front truck onto the
wet spot...hold the loco from moving...and turn up the juice
to spin the wheels...off goes the grime easily...then do the
same for the rear truck wheels.

Don


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## trains galore (Jul 22, 2013)

Thank you I will have to try that, some of my locos could do with cleaner wheels. I'm still puzzled about the track, but i do have ballast and that sprinkly scenic lawn stuff near it, maybe the track is just getting dirty because of the dust magnet scenery? How often is it necessary for you to clean your track? I seem to have to do it all the time!
Thanks.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Layouts live in various 'climates'. Open windows and such can
let in all sorts of contaminates for track.  Mine lives in the luxury
of filtered air all the time so my track can get by for several
days without running my little track cleaner around the layout.

I've finished 'landscaping' only one quarter of my layout but haven't
had a problem with 'tumbling tumbleweeds' on the track. 

Don


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## trains galore (Jul 22, 2013)

Yes the room my layout is in gets a bit dusty, maybe I just need to keep cleaning the track! And I definitely don't have filtered air
The scenic stuff is still a work in progress, I'm still trying to work out how to position everything so it looks just ''right''.
Thanks for the help


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