# Control Tower



## regme (Oct 23, 2014)

Hi

So I'm at the point of wiring up the points. Since my little one is going to using this I thought I'd keep it simple (well nothing is simple with this hobby).

I'm going to make three control towers to house the switches that control the two yards and the cross over of the two loops. Each tower will have room for 5 switches.

Since this layout is movable and will be stored up against a wall (lack of space) I was going to make the control towers removable. Otherwise they are more likely to get damaged will moving the layout through the house.

My question is what would be the best way to connect the wiring from the tower to the board. I was going to cut a hole in the board and use Miniature Nylon Molex type connectors.

Attached is a plan of the towers.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

You could use multicontact jacks and plugs. Mouser
has a large selection.

http://www.mouser.com/?utm_medium=c...ontent=20888597023|7507402811&utm_source=BING

You could also use multi contact barrier terminal blocks, also from them.
They make it easy to wire the buttons and switches on your 'panels'.

You would need to tally up the number of wires going to each tower and
get devices with that many contacts.

Will you be using twin coil turnout motors or Tortoise stall motor type?

If twin coil, and your youngin is going to be doing turnout operations, I would
strongly urge you to buy or build a Capacitor Discharge circuit to power your
turnouts. They would protect the twin coils from burn out by an overly long
push of a button (or a stuck button).

Don


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## regme (Oct 23, 2014)

Thanks, I'll check that out. They are the hornby point motors (R8014) I was going to use this type of switch:

http://www3.sympatico.ca/kstapleton3/751D.HTM

I'll find out if I still need a CDU from the supplier.

Cheers


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Thanks for posting that link. Had I known of that product
I would have a much less awkward turnout/LED control

The product mentioned looks like an ordinary toggle switch,
but it comes with an electronic circuit that provides a PULSE
of current to throw twin coil machines, yet offers a continuous
current for panel LEDs.

This is the obvious answer for those who want panel or trackside
LED point indicators and are using twin coil (or single coil)
solenoid turnout motors.

I doubt that you would need the CDU with this device. It's
pulse would be controlled automatically. The CDU is actually
a protection against accidentally long momentary button
pushes that would burn out the sensitive solenoid coils.

Incidentally, it comes as preassembled, or as kits for those
who like to do it yourself, for less money.

The Hornby R8014 twin coil turnout motor looks very similar
to the Peco PL10.

Don


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## regme (Oct 23, 2014)

Ok the control towers are starting to take shape, I'm using RJ12 connectors and 6 core telephone cable to do the wiring. Although the soldering is pretty slow due to the size of the cable.
Cut out

















Dry fit on the board, once the swtiches are completed the buildings will be glued together


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## regme (Oct 23, 2014)

Hi

Need a Plan B.

I wired up the 751D switch to control two point motors. When I powered it up one of the point motors started to make a rattling sound and started to get hot the other did nothing (didn't even get hot).

I have emailed the supplier indicating he may have sent the board for a single coil rather than the double coil, so hopefully he'll get back to me.

So Plan B, I'm going to have to make a CDU (have a plans, not sure I understand what it all means - thanks DonR). I just what to make sure I understand some basics of what I want to attempt.

Do I need a seperate CDU for every point motor, the plans I have say it can handle up 5 point motors being thrown at the same time? Can I actually throw them individually?

The switch I need is a SPDT Centre Off Mom. Solder Tail Mini Toggle Switch.

http://www.altronics.com.au/p/s1340-salecom-spdt-centre-off-mom.-solder-tail-mini-toggle-switch/

The 751D switch incorporated the LEDs so I was going to use dwarf signals to indicate the point positions. Is it easier to LEDS of the track power?

I have done a search on the net, but the solutions are all over the place.

Really need a how to thread.

Cheers


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

A capacitor discharge unit utilitzes the ability of a
capacitor to store a charge similar to a battery.
The transistors control the charging. When you
push a turnout point control button is releases the
charge from the capacitor to the turnout coil. That
expends all of the capacitor's charge so there would
be no possibility of coil damage. When the button is
released the transistors recharge the capacitor instantly.

You usually need only one CDU for your layout. I is wired to feed all
turnout control buttons. The size of the capacitor
would basically determine how many turnouts can
be thrown at one time. I use mine with a diode matrix circuit
to throw turnouts in my yards. You need push only one button
for the track you want to use and one push will throw
all turnouts in the path. One button throws 5 turnouts
at the same time powered by the CDU in my yards.

If you use the electronic switches from the link you would
not use a CDU. You would power them per their manual.

The pictured SPDT momentary, middle off switch would
work twin coil turnout motors, but you would have no
control of panel or trackside LEDs. I prefer momentary
push buttons. To me, they are easier to use. Each turnout
would need 2 ordinarily.

LEDs require DC current. Most of us use old wall warts
that originally were designed for phone or other chargers
or as a power supply for a small appliance. There are plentiful supplies for these
at Flea markets for little money. Each one will have a label
describing it's output. You want DC about 5 or so volts 
for LEDs. The voltage will determine the size resistor for
the LEDs.

Don


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## regme (Oct 23, 2014)

Thanks Don.

I think I'll have to ditch the control towers and come up with something different.

Cheers


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