# Help. Don't judge



## Cbrdrgn (Mar 27, 2015)

I'm new to model railroading and don't have alot of money. With that out
Of the way. I did purchace a couple of Bachman starter trains. My daughter and I both enjoy running our trains. I only have the quicktrak system, is there a way to make this HO system look realistic other than replacing it with more expensive track? Please offer any good advice you can.


----------



## callmeIshmael2 (May 28, 2012)

Hi Cbrdgn (sorry if I misspelled that)! Welcome to this site. I'm in O gauge myself, but my son has a fair bit of HO and so far, it's just on the floor. Seeing as they're only about two inches off the floor and I'm close to 6 ft., my view is like a guy in a helicopter. Still, I love watching the HO engines and cars going around the oval. Something wonderful, something that suspends judgement for me - I just totally enjoy watching trains move, be they full-scale or models. Nothing wrong with that, but when I read your "thread" title, I winced a little because you're right, there are peeps out there that are nearly zealous in their judgement of others. So what? Is that any different than anywhere else in life? The heck with them - it's your hobby and you are free to enjoy it any way you want. The great thing about this forum is there is very little (almost no) judgement coming from the great people who respond and offer good advice, and are usually very positive in their praise for others' attempts to enjoy their trains. They are also over-the-top on giving solid how-to's on maintenance and fixing stuff when it needs it. Try it - it works!


----------



## mikek (Dec 29, 2013)

I use the Bachmann E-Z-Track myself, have only a circle that I use to test my trains. I like the track, appreciate the practicality of it, and the way it stays together. 
The first thing to do is decide if your set is going to be permanent or not. If you have space, a plywood sheet can start you out. Decide how much space you can use, and look at diagrams of layouts. There are lots of options, including tunnels and bridges. 
Once you have your track laid out you will have learned about switches and their wiring, and realized that stuff will end up under the plywood, so how you do that teaches you more. 
Railroad modeling is involved, and there are books and magazines available. As you go through them, you will be exposed to buildings, lights, farms, factories, and such to decorate your setup. It can get expensive, so careful shopping is in order. I like E-bay, but it takes a lot of time to find good deals.
To keep it simple, some structures can make your layout look realistic, and terrain can be modeled with simple techniques like slot-car track to be roads and fake mountains.


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Cbrdrgn said:


> I'm new to model railroading and don't have alot of money. With that out
> Of the way. I did purchace a couple of Bachman starter trains. My daughter and I both enjoy running our trains. I only have the quicktrak system, is there a way to make this HO system look realistic other than replacing it with more expensive track? Please offer any good advice you can.


Do you mean Bachmann EZ track? You can add ballast to it
which eliminates the clean toy look. It's major downside is that
you must stay with Bachmann EZ turnouts and accessories, or
face a pesky transition to other makes.

Actually, you'll find Atlas flex track less expensive.
It comes in 3 foot long sections. You flex it and cut it to match
your layout design. Turnouts of most makes are
compatible with it. Most use the code 100, but some prefer
the code 83 which looks a bit more realistic.

Most modellers use either a cork or form road bed
under their flex track. That makes a similar appearance
to the EZ track. Ballast is later added for more realistic
look.

Don


----------



## FormerBiker (Oct 2, 2012)

As you can see from the early pictures, my layout uses E-Z Track.










Here is a look of the layout that is close to completion.




























Edit: From this view my smoke stack is crooked. Gotta fix that.:laugh:

Besides, Its a hobby, enjoy it with your kids.


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

We're a pretty non-judgmental lot over here. Can't say the same for some of the other forums, where having the wrong number of rivets, not operating in a prototypical manner, or not aspiring to museum quality work is a grounds for a scathing denunciation.

I'm with Don -- I don't know of any quicktrack system, and a quick search of that term on Bachmann's website found no results -- so I'm going to guess that you're talking about EZ Track. It sounds like you already have a bunch and would rather stick with it. As long as you got the stuff with nickel-silver rails and gray roadbed, and can live with the limited geometric possibilities of the available pieces, there's absolutely no reason why you can't enjoy that track forever.

I say gray roadbed and nickel-silver rail not to be judgmental, but because steel really is an inferior option for track, both because it isn't a great conductor of electricity and it corrodes easily. So if that's what you have, just be aware that you'll probably get frustrated with it over time.

So, the question is, what, exactly, do you want to make more realistic? If it's just the appearance of the track, there are 3 quick ways to add realism: paint the ties, paint the rails, and add some real gravel ballast. The first two are easily done, no matter what your plans are for the layout. The last is kind of tricky unless you are making a more or less permanent layout.

Painting of the ties can be as simple as a quick stroke of dark brown paint, or you can add dabs of other colors to simulate aged / faded ties; oil, grease, and rust stains, and moss. Since the ties are already black, don't get too careful with your paint. Some black streaks are actually more realistic than a nice, uniform brown. Don't worry if you get some down between the ties; you can hide that later with ballast.

Painting the rails involves putting a streak of rust colored paint down the inside and outside web (the skinny part underneath the railhead) of the rail. It can be done with a fine brush or a paint pen. Again, don't worry too much about being neat -- the ties will have rust stains on prototype rail. Just clean off any paint that you get on the TOP of the rail, because that will affect electrical conductivity.

Finally, if the track isn't going anywhere for a while, you can add simulated gravel ballast. The best way to do this in your case would be to paint the outside edge of the plastic roadbed with full strength white glue and sprinkle a little fine ballast (available at hobby stores or on-line) onto the glue before it dries. For the top part, sprinkle a little on, and lock it in with some dilute white glue (1 part glue, 4 parts water, with a drop of dishwashing liquid per cup of solution to aid in flowing). Make sure none of the little grains end up against the inside of the rails, or they can cause derailments. I usually sweep things into place with a soft, 1/2" brush before gluing.

Another thing that will help, again if your layout is more or less permanent, is just adding scenery, which will distract the eye from analyzing the track too closely.


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

CT

You beat me this time.

FB

Looks like you've done a lot of work. The ballast looks good and
you've completely hidden the EZ track. As CTvalley said, some
thinned gray, brown and/or rust paint to 'weather' what you have
would be the added touch. Experiment with a section out of view
until you get something you like, if you do it.

By the way, I'm a FB also, Harley Road King.

Don


----------



## mikek (Dec 29, 2013)

I like my EZ track as it is, since I put it up from time to time. I got some switches with ballast glued to it, how do I remove that glue? I expect it's white glue.


----------



## FormerBiker (Oct 2, 2012)

DonR said:


> CT
> 
> You beat me this time.
> 
> ...


Hi Don. I had a Road King until a little old lady knocked me off of it while going to college. Then I got an FLHTC-U with the insurance money and put 100K miles on it before I sold it.

My point for posting the pictures was to show the new guy what is possible. There are a lot of ways to build and what ever works for you is good enough. And there is no right or wrong. If you don't like the way it looks move stuff around until it looks good to you.

So like I said before, its a hobby have fun.:smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

100000 miles!
Now don't tell me all in one years time.


----------



## FormerBiker (Oct 2, 2012)

big ed said:


> 100000 miles!
> Now don't tell me all in one years time.


No, it was over about 10 years. Rode it through school and then to work everyday. Plus a few long trips. 100K in a year.:laugh: I :appl: anyone that can do that iron butt.:hah:

Just to keep this train related, here are some of the "bros"


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Iron butt.........that is what I was going to say.

Though a nice ride, :thumbsup:,out of that 100,000 how much went wrong with it besides normal wear and tear items?
Just curious. ( Or nosey )


----------



## FormerBiker (Oct 2, 2012)

big ed said:


> Iron butt.........that is what I was going to say.
> 
> Though a nice ride, :thumbsup:,out of that 100,000 how much went wrong with it besides normal wear and tear items?
> Just curious. ( Or nosey )


Burned a valve at 50K. So did a top end, added a cam, Screaming eagle carb, Single fire ignition, and supertraps. Ran great. Other than that, just tire and oil changes.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Looks like Hulk Hogan on one of the choppers. :thumbsup:


----------



## Cbrdrgn (Mar 27, 2015)

My title was from another forum. As soon as I posted all they did was judge the EZ track and tell me how bad it was. I got no ideas how to use it well. So I thank everyone. I did a Woodland Senics water kit and learned about creating scenery. Thanks all for the great ideas.


----------



## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Removing white glue*

Mikek;

Removing white glue is easy, that's one reason we modelers like it so much. White glue is, and remains, water soluble. If your track has the old steel rails, or the turnout is powered, don't use the method I'm proposing. Steel rails will do a major rust job if soaked. Any attached switch motor,(big plastic housing on the side of the turnout) would be ruined by soaking.
If you have nickle silver rail, and the turnout is manual; you can soak it for a few hours in hot water with a drop of dish washing detergent,
( Dawn, Joy, Palmolive, Etc.) This will loosen up the glue, and make it easy to remove with an old tooth brush or scotch brite scrubbing pad.
Blowing compressed air over the turnout will help dry any manual linkage parts inside.

If you're dealing with a powered turnout skip the soaking and try scrubbing with a moist toothbrush. Use as little water as possible, and try to keep any water away from the switch machine. 
If your rails will stick to a magnet they are steel, and I recommend replacing steel track with the much more reliable nickle silver type.

Good luck;

Traction fan


----------



## FormerBiker (Oct 2, 2012)

Cbrdrgn said:


> My title was from another forum. As soon as I posted all they did was judge the EZ track and tell me how bad it was. I got no ideas how to use it well. So I thank everyone. I did a Woodland Senics water kit and learned about creating scenery. Thanks all for the great ideas.


I read some of that commentary about E-Z too but its what I had so it is what I used. Best part is, the train runs.



> Thanks all for the great ideas.


No charge, man. Glad we could help.:smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Well, Don, even a blind squirrel finds a nut occasionally!

I bet I could guess which other forum that was. I don't visit them much anymore. 

MikeK, try diluted rubbing alcohol. It will take that gkue right off..

And finally, to the OP, you're welcome. Come back any time!


----------

