# 10' to 12' extension for HO layout



## KTFlory (Feb 28, 2013)

Hey everybody, I'm starting to come up with a final-ish plan for the layout extension to my little 4x8. This will be the first of three extensions I have planed and I just started on the 4x8 about a month ago.

This extension is meant as primarily just a place to switch cars, store rolling stock and to extend my closed loop out of eyesight to break the "circle of track on a board" appearance.

This is only the second track plan I have ever laid out so any suggestions and improvements are greatly appreciated!

The plan is:

Main layout: Primary industry, locomotive sheds/maintenance shop

Extension 1: Yards for rolling stock, run arounds, car maintenance shop, 20" loop (Will have a removable 2' section to put Ext 2 between the main layout and Ext 1 in case I don't have room for Ext 3 when I move, thus completing a loop with 20" radius at one end and 22 at other.

Extension 2: Passing siding with small secondary industry, mostly just scenery for this 10' section (Will be built same time as extension 3 because it will not have a turn around)

Extension 3: Passenger terminal, large storage shed for locomotives out of modern era and 22" radius turn around to complete the entire 22" min loop from one end to the other.

Picture reference:
Green is river, blue is track. Grey is car shop, light blue is a city water tower.
Trains will normally travel clockwise through the loop (the loop will likely rarely ever be used once the 2nd and 3rd extentions are done, but it will be handy for switching and locomotive swaps.

The layout is 10' in length here, the short section to the right is 2'X2' with a 1X1 45 degree corner. The left side is about 3.5' wide and 3' feet long with a 1.5'x1.5' 45 degree corner. I deally I can squeeze the flex track into a 20" radius here... Not good enough for all my rolling stock but good enough for most of it until I build the rest.


----------



## joed2323 (Oct 17, 2010)

First off congrats, now, a 20 inch loop is tiny, i would not recommend this, not even 22 especially since you are running passenger trains. No way, this is not a good idea.

Since your building a addition, (ive built several so far off my original plan) Dont go small. You need a bigger radius for passenger cars then you do for freight.
Im no rivet counter, but the passenger cars will look toy like going through a radius like that.

Even if the loop will rarely be used, make it big enough that its reliable, otherwise it will be useless. How big is the room, can you squeeze out a bigger radius loop?

So the main layout extension, the bigger box on the left, this is only 3.5 feet wide x 3 feet long? am i reading this correctly? It doesnt make sense, unless i just didnt have my coffee yet?

I am no expert with track design but i see a couple issues,
I dont understand why you have 2 tracks from the garage going into the yard, and the other garage track going to the runaround track, whats the reason for this? you could maximize your area if you have them all running to the same location

Double ended yards are nice, but only if you have enough room for one. With your space you should change your yard to a single ended yard.

With your yard you have the mainline, then the arrival/departure track, which is necessary, then you have one useful yard track but the bottom yard track needs to be left open so the garage/shop can be serviced. You could add a runaround track to the shop. But if i was you i would change the yard design to a single ended yard, you would have more useful yard tracks

Also, i know curved turnouts are expensive, but they gain you alot more room versus a #6 righthand turnout for example. You could put a righthand curved turnout just after your return loop on the top left corner, and gain alot more track length for your yard tracks.

I just recently started biting the bullet on my layout and purchasing curved turnouts, and you do gain alot more room with these, since you dont need to have a straight section to put a turnout in.


----------



## KTFlory (Feb 28, 2013)

Thanks, that's just the information I needed. I'm having trouble processing it but I'll try tweaking thinks tonight.

The radius is about 20" because I can only fit about 3.5' to 4' wide sections in that point in the room, its basically a hallway. Also my main layout only has a 22" radius, I have to limit myself to using medium sized cars or using terrain to disguise the cars and they go through crazy angles.

The turn on this extension is only temporary, after the next two sections get built I will only rarely use it was a turn around for my 4 axle locomotives to go into the yard from the main layout.

The red is the wall and support I have to work around, there is also a wall about 1.5 feet to the right most section of bench work, and right up against the leftmost. The layout is actually "complete" track wise on the right hand portion, I just didn't draw it in.

Continuous running is essential, and I don't think anything more than 22" is possible. Even working on the left side section is gonna be a pain, I'll need a step ladder to reach the back.

I've never designed a yard before, I guess I need to start over on this one.


----------



## joed2323 (Oct 17, 2010)

How big is the layout room??? size of the room?

Couldnt you make this into a U-shape layout with a turnback loop on each end, with a yard in the middle?

Im not exactly sure how i can help you, i know if you give us the dimensions of the room we can go from there

Your building this in a hallway??


----------



## KTFlory (Feb 28, 2013)

The basement here has been messed up pretty bad design wise, the 4x8 section is all that will fit into the main portion due to shelves and a landing.

The area I am building the extension in is about 6' wide most of the way and 12' long. Going around the edges is simply not an option if I want to still have access. I will also be probably be moving inside 2 years so it needs to be mobile and modular if I am to take it with me.


----------



## KTFlory (Feb 28, 2013)

Ok... I changed it to a two track main line which I wanted to do anyways. The second main line terminates and becomes a A/D track also usable as a run around. Moved all access to the shop to the bottom mainline, added more double headed yards and added a single headed yard with multiple run arounds to make sure I can shuffle cars around with my SW1000.

This section is 8' long x 3.5' wide at the fat portion, 2' wide at the narrow, with the 2' "adapter" section between it and the main layout. All 3 mainline tracks continue off to the left to allow expansion to the countryside extension, then the passenger terminal if I ever get that far/have space if I move before finishing.


----------



## joed2323 (Oct 17, 2010)

Are you doing this on a paint program? designing a layout on paper/paint is still alot different from a track design program. Yes it looks good on paper but it doesnt necessarily mean it will fit and work on when you start laying out all those switches and track, your tracks will decrease in size considerably.
Ive done this also, but once i started laying out switches to match my drawings, it did not fit correctly and it made me mad.

Do you have these switches where you can lay this out on the floor to get the idea of how it will lay out?

I think you will realize how much room this will actually take up once you lay out the track and switches, some of those yard tracks may be alot smaller then they appear on your design.

I hope this is not the case, but 9 times out of 10 this is what happens when we design something on paper and not an actual model track design program.
Their is a few free trial programs out their on the net, that you do not have to buy, this is just a thought.

Hopefully you have these switches and track, so you can lay this out on the floor and see how much room this actually takes up.


----------



## KTFlory (Feb 28, 2013)

I have a few track CAD programs but they do not seem to work properly. I lay out the switches but the exit angles are not correct and they won't let me lay parallel track as close as I need to. (Not unrealisticly close either.) I seem to have pretty good luck with laying stuff out in my head and on paper. I managed to get the whole 4'x8' section done with just a paper drawing then tweaking the yard angles. Must come from doing tons of G scale layouts on the grass in the backyard with my grandpa.

I have some track at the moment, not enough to do the entire thing but enough to know that this will be close enough once I get the flex track cut and bent.

I decided to make the adapter section 4' long instead of 2'. It means that I'll have to rent a truck to move it but it will give me much more space on each section of the yard. This brings the whole extension to 3.5'X12'. With the "bulge" now moved 2' further I may be able to squeeze 4' into the room and use 22" radius instead of the 20".

Since I can now go to 4' on the bulge I will probably go 3' on the main section, this will give me room for all the parallel tracks in the yard.


----------



## flyerrich (Feb 17, 2014)

Can someone explain the difference in a "curved" turnout vs. a "#6 righthand turnout". I was reading a reply from another forum member and he was saying the curved turnout gave you more track room vs the #6 ?? thanks.


----------



## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

With a curved turnout both tracks are curved (great for adding a turnout within a curved section of track.) 

With a regular turnout one track continues straight while the diverging track has a radius.

If you're coming off of a curve into a yard, then yes, a curved turnout can give you a little extra length to work with within your yard (when compared to having to complete the curve, THEN go through the turnout.)


----------

