# Bascule Bridge Project



## Theamazingswal (Dec 14, 2017)

I've been thinking about a project that will keep me busy a few months this winter and a bascule bridge project just may do the trick.
I plan on adding it to my upper deck. I did a little research and found this interesting video on how the real one in Port Huron, Michigan works.
This video has outstanding animation on how the bridge is raised and lowered. 

George

Pere Marquette Railroad Bridge, Port Huron, Michigan - YouTube


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

Walther's has a kit for a similar bridge but with a different counter weight mechanism.


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## Theamazingswal (Dec 14, 2017)

So my Bascule Bridge came today and I can see you can be easily overwhelmed at all the gluing that's going to be taking place in the next few days. It's not easy gluing either. So I'll go slow and see what happens. Glue #2 to #4 and that was hard enough. The pieces don't lock in.
George


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Theamazingswal said:


> So my Bascule Bridge came today and I can see you can be easily overwhelmed at all the gluing that's going to be taking place in the next few days. It's not easy gluing either. So I'll go slow and see what happens. Glue #2 to #4 and that was hard enough. The pieces don't lock in.
> George
> 
> View attachment 551073


Is the kit motorized?


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## Theamazingswal (Dec 14, 2017)

Added some more clamps on my 2nd try. Works out better. I only spot welded the inner girders otherwise they'll be glue every where.
George











Big Ed said:


> Is the kit motorized?


Yes Big Ed it is. It comes with a motor but I'm a long way from that..


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## Theamazingswal (Dec 14, 2017)

At 1am last night I unknowingly installed the header latticework beams in backwards. I when to bed and realized it when I woke up.
I thought now what? They have to be removed and I know they'll be ruined. So I thought maybe the bridge designer decided to use straight steel support beams rather the latticework ones. Stronger with all the lifting. I made the new beams out of styrene and when their painted no one will know any better.

George


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## Theamazingswal (Dec 14, 2017)

I decided to try and install the bridge motor today but I'm stuck on how the gears in the instruction photo mess together?
I guess at some point I'll catch on but right now I got nothing in mind?


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## Theamazingswal (Dec 14, 2017)

I'm very close to being done with the project expect for installing it on the layout. I finally figured out how all the gears mesh together. They all seem to work properly but I haven't raised the bridge yet. That's tomorrow. It's to late to do any testing tonight. Below are a few photos of the gear assembly to give future bascule builders something to go by.

George


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## Theamazingswal (Dec 14, 2017)

So I tested the bridge this morning and it works. I'm amazed by that? Now whether or not the close track alignment tolerance needed will work on the layout? I doubt it. My lift out works because the tracks are aligned perfectly when the left out is in place. I'm mean side to side up and down. I'm not so sure about this plastic bridge doing the same. We'll see what happens? 

George


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Theamazingswal said:


> So I tested the bridge this morning and it works. I'm amazed by that? Now whether or not the close track alignment tolerance needed will work on the layout? I doubt it. My lift out works because the tracks are aligned perfectly when the left out is in place. I'm mean side to side up and down. I'm not so sure about this plastic bridge doing the same. We'll see what happens?
> 
> George


Nice, did it come with some kind of counter weight?
Are you planning on weathering it?
Did it come with a light for the top?


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## Theamazingswal (Dec 14, 2017)

> Nice, did it come with some kind of counter weight?
> Are you planning on weathering it?
> Did it come with a light for the top?


Yes Ed it did. I left out the counter weight and the top support braces for now because I didn't know if I needed get back into the motor house for some reason. I thought maybe they might get in the way. Anyone planning on buying this kit beware. The instruction are poor and doing things out of order may dome the whole project especially those 3 gears that power the arm that raises the bridge. The cut on that rod that runs through the motor house has to be near perfect. I would cut it after installing the 3 gears cap because if you cut it to short it's domes day. The gear mechanism is hard to figure out. Every gear shaft has to be cut from the 12 inch rod that comes with the kit. I would use a cutting disk like I have in one of the photos. I have a few things to finish up and on the layout it goes. I'll be amazes if it actually works when installed. It may be like some many of these bridges in real life permanently down or up.

Yes I plan on weathering it. It didn't come with any lights but I plan on putting some on.

I'll be posting more photos of the installation soon. 

George


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## Theamazingswal (Dec 14, 2017)

I made some piers and started the installation today. The code 83 track I ordered 3 weeks ago is still not here so there's only so much I can do until that arrives.
George


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## Theamazingswal (Dec 14, 2017)

So my bascule bridge project is 98% done. I'm amazed that it all works. I only have a 3 foot section of track after the bridge for now because other bridges have to be built and installed. I've tested some engine power crossing the bridge and everything works fine, I had to add 2 very small guides on the far end to align the bridge as it drops into place. There are 2 micro switches that cut that power for the up and down motion. 1 in the motor house the other imbedded in the far abutment. I have one DPDT switch to control the up & down direction and 1 SP to cut the power in case of an emergence. If you plan on building the bridge I would tell you not to solder the diode's to the micro switches. Run the 3 wires form the switches under the layout somewhere and then add the diodes there. It's very easy to install theses backwards and very hard to change if there soldered to the embedded switches. I added a strobe light but it's hardly visible in the video. Th camera I took the video with has a fish eye lens so the curve after the bridge looks some what distorted. It's not.. Click on the youtube link to watch .he video.

George


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## Spence (Oct 15, 2015)

Very nice job.


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## Mark VerMurlen (Aug 15, 2015)

Looks great! Well done.


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## Dave NYC 1962 (Oct 17, 2020)

Are there some slots (v shaped I would think) or some other mechanism to keep the track aligned on the lifted end?


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Well done.


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## Theamazingswal (Dec 14, 2017)

> Are there some slots (v shaped I would think) or some other mechanism to keep the track aligned on the lifted end?


First thanks everyone for you comments.
No Dave there's no slots to keep the track aligned.
I glued two 1/4 inch square posts cut at a 45 degree angle to the abutment. They force the track to be correctly aligned.
There so small you can't see them but work.

George


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

That is outstanding, looks really cool.

Magic


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## Geno the Viking (Feb 29, 2012)

Theamazingswal said:


> First thanks everyone for you comments.
> No Dave there's no slots to keep the track aligned.
> I glued two 1/4 inch square posts cut at a 45 degree angle to the abutment. They force the track to be correctly aligned.
> There so small you can't see them but work.
> ...


Great job. I'm working on mine now. I'm stumped by the installation of the motor and gears. The instructions are terrible on paper and online. The parts inside the motor building don't even look like the parts in the kit... help. What a painful kit to assemble and I'm going to have a second one too. could you show some close up shots of your track installed on the bridge and what you used to power the rails and line them up properly. Thanks so much.


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## Theamazingswal (Dec 14, 2017)

> Great job. I'm working on mine now. I'm stumped by the installation of the motor and gears. The instructions are terrible on paper and online. The parts inside the motor building don't even look like the parts in the kit... help. What a painful kit to assemble and I'm going to have a second one too. could you show some close up shots of your track installed on the bridge and what you used to power the rails and line them up properly. Thanks so much.


Give me a little time Geno and I'll work something up that you can follow.
George


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## Geno the Viking (Feb 29, 2012)

Much appreciated. It's a good kit with bad instructions and mislabeled parts.


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## Theamazingswal (Dec 14, 2017)

OK Gino see if this helps. Make sure the motor house is level because any tilt will put strain on all the gears and cause some binding.


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## Geno the Viking (Feb 29, 2012)

Very helpful thank you. Also part #125 has two big lugs on the bottom that aren't shown in the directions. Did you cut them off or how should the part be mounted? Thanks


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## Theamazingswal (Dec 14, 2017)

> Very helpful thank you. Also part #125 has two big lugs on the bottom that aren't shown in the directions. Did you cut them off or how should the part be mounted? Thanks


No Gino I don't think I did cut them. I know the instructions are confusing but I think I finally figured that one out. I would have to look. I would not solder the diode to the switch that attaches to 125. The switch that stops the upward motion of the bridge. I would run the wiring down under the layout keeping track of which wire is which and add it there. That way is you install it backwards, which is easy to do, it's easy to correct.

George


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