# Bachmann 2-6-0 Alco Shell Removal and Decoder Reset



## /6 matt (Jul 7, 2015)

I have a brand new Bachmann Alco 2-6-0 mogul with sound value and I've been wondering how to remove the locomotive shell to investigate the possibility of adding weight. Anybody know how to do it? I can't seem to find what is holding the front of the shell on.

Also it is acting a little funky and I was gonna try to reset it but upon removing the tender shell I cannot seem to locate the reset button on the decoder? I can't contact Bachmann and ask since I'm at work during their business hours.


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## Genetk44 (Feb 26, 2016)

Try setting CV8 to 8.


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## /6 matt (Jul 7, 2015)

Can't do that, I'm on DC.


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## Genetk44 (Feb 26, 2016)

Ok but theres no reset button on the decoder so I think you are out of luck.
When you say the loco is acting a little funky, what do you mean...can you describe it? And what kind of DC decoder are you using?

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/images/Spectrum_DCC_Quick_Start_Guide.pdf


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## /6 matt (Jul 7, 2015)

I was afraid there was no physical reset but i was hoping yall may have some good news for me. I'm running a MRC Tech II 1400 transformer and as for what the Loco is doing, where when you turn the throttle up to a certain voltage the lights and sound are supposed to come on and then the locomotive moves at a higher voltage on this one when I turn the throttle up the light starts to flash and the speaker makes a clicking noise. If I go slow enough the clicking starts to try to turn into a bell ringing but never really makes it and then in an instant the light and sound comes on and the locomotive starts rolling with no whistle blasts and no bell ring. Likewise when throttling down the bell never rings and as soon as it stops moving the light flashes and the speaker clicks with no sounds. When in reverse both lights flash. Im kind of thinking the cv's for the DC control needs adjusting but I was gonna try to reset the decoder to see what happens.


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## alaska railroad (Oct 20, 2015)

Hi, I own these locos also. As stated they do not have resets on board. To do a reset, also as stated you have to do a cv-8 to 8. 

you say it's acting funky, I can say if it is kinda jerky, that is normal for these alco 2-6-0's until there broken in. Hope this helps.


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## alaska railroad (Oct 20, 2015)

Oops never mind my first post.I just seen you're last post. you must have posted while I was posting.


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## alaska railroad (Oct 20, 2015)

Sorry for the multi posts. I own 4 of these locos, and all of mine do the same thing on dc. Dcc locos DO NOT like running on dc. Using dc They are supposed to operate functions based on voltage changes ,as you turn up and down you're dc controler.but as my experience, they don't work well at all doing so. I own a dcc controler, and they operate perfect using dcc. 

One other thing I want to mention, if you're dc controler is rated at higher then 13 volts, be extremely careful not to turn you're controler up to far. You can damage the decoder.


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## /6 matt (Jul 7, 2015)

Ok well as long as this is normal behavior and not indicative of a problem then I can live with it till I get DCC. So back to the first question, how do I take the shell off the locomotive? The two screws in the back under the cab are obvious but what else is holding it on?


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## alaska railroad (Oct 20, 2015)

Yes this is normal. 

Do you have the parts brake down diagram for the loco? That will show you the exploded view of the loco, that should help you see how it's put together. If you don't have it let me know, I will post you the diagram for this loco.


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## Brakeman Jake (Mar 8, 2009)

Itmay have a screw inside the smoke stack,some N scale steamers do.....


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

You should have a parts list breakdown which would have come with the loco, if you don't I'm sure there will be one on the Bachmann site. As for your running problems get into the twenty first century and get DCC


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## Genetk44 (Feb 26, 2016)

Parts breakdown diagram here

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/HO_260_DCC_sound_.pdf


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## /6 matt (Jul 7, 2015)

Ah ha! I see the screw now! The parts diagram that came with mine is too fuzzy to see that, it looks like it's been photocopied too many times or something.



Cycleops said:


> As for your running problems get into the twenty first century and get DCC


Yeah no kidding right? My plan was to buy the Echo Valley starter set, sell the track and later down the road sell the EZ Command to fund the purchase of an NCE or Digitrax system. But then MB Klein had the locomotive on sale 25% off so the plan got postponed lol.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

/6 matt said:


> Yeah no kidding right? My plan was to buy the Echo Valley starter set, sell the track and later down the road sell the EZ Command to fund the purchase of an NCE or Digitrax system.


Buy the NCE system, you'll be so much happier.


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## alaska railroad (Oct 20, 2015)

Yup, like cycleops said.nce power cab, I love mine and it's sooooo easy to operate.


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## /6 matt (Jul 7, 2015)

Ive done a lot of homework and while the power cab is by far much more appealing to me I have to wonder if 2 amps is enough to support up to 3 sound locomotives and 1 non sound locomotive at the same time. I know I can go up to i think 2.5 amps with a bigger power supply but that is not recommended and I can also get the SB5 smart booster which I would rather not. Also I've heard that in most cases you will need a booster for your programing track for sound locomotives, the power cabs lack of programing track makes that not possible and that kind of bothers me.


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## alaska railroad (Oct 20, 2015)

/6 matt said:


> Ive done a lot of homework and while the power cab is by far much more appealing to me I have to wonder if 2 amps is enough to support up to 3 sound locomotives and 1 non sound locomotive at the same time. I know I can go up to i think 2.5 amps with a bigger power supply but that is not recommended and I can also get the SB5 smart booster which I would rather not. Also I've heard that in most cases you will need a booster for your programing track for sound locomotives, the power cabs lack of programing track makes that not possible and that kind of bothers me.


In most cases I don't think you would have a problem running the locos you posted. I can run 3 ho bachmann dcc sound locos with amps to spare. 

As for a booster for programming, I never heard about that with the power cab. If it's true I'm surprised. I program on the main, and on my program track all the time with no problems at all. That's programing my bachmann, and my broadway limited locos, and my athearn genesis dcc caboose. Hope this helps.


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## /6 matt (Jul 7, 2015)

Yes sir that was a huge help. Thank to everybody for all the guidance.:smilie_daumenpos:


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## alaska railroad (Oct 20, 2015)

/6 matt
alaska railroad says, you are welcome...


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## Genetk44 (Feb 26, 2016)

/6 matt said:


> Ive done a lot of homework and while the power cab is by far much more appealing to me I have to wonder if 2 amps is enough to support up to 3 sound locomotives and 1 non sound locomotive at the same time. I know I can go up to i think 2.5 amps with a bigger power supply but that is not recommended and I can also get the SB5 smart booster which I would rather not. Also I've heard that in most cases you will need a booster for your programing track for sound locomotives, the power cabs lack of programing track makes that not possible and that kind of bothers me.


No problem running that number of locos with a PowerCab...and you don't need a booster for programming sound locos with the Powercab either.

I've been doing all of that for over 5 years with my PowerCab.


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