# Wiring your DCC layout.



## DJL1961 (Sep 8, 2014)

New to the board, and new to the hobby. I'm very much still in the learning stage, while I design a layout and figure out how I want to do things. A topic that I have heard very strong opinions on is the connecting of mainly feeder wires to bus lines. I've seen many a video of people using suitcase clips on layouts of all sizes. But I've also spoken to several hobbyists in a couple shops recently who insist on soldering everything, their reason being good conductivity, they didn't trust suitcase clips for a reliable connection. These guys also tended to use heavier gauge wire. I thought perhaps they were using very small feeder wires and that's why they didn't trust the clips connection.
My thoughts on my layout are to be about 45' of linear track, probably two mainlines, through three different scenery zones, plus a yard.Feeders to the track every three feet.
Does anyone have any opinions one way or the other?
And why? I don't have a problem with lots of soldering, but I do intend on laying lots of track, and probably a fair amount of switches. Quicker and easier is better, but not at the expense of conductivity. Thanks, Dave


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## Brakeman Jake (Mar 8, 2009)

Soldering beats any kind of mechanical connections.This said,suitcase connectors are fast and neat,and aren't likely prone to corrosion for in-house use.Not for outside use though.

Their weakness for layout use is that they're gauge specific,they don't work well with wires of different diameter.Buss wires are generally heavier (14-16 Ga.) than the feeders (20-22 Ga.) so that no suitcase connector will be correct for both.20 Ga. connectors will cut strands from the 14 Ga. wire while a 20 Ga. wire will fit loosely in a 14 Ga. connector.


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## fcwilt (Sep 27, 2013)

Compression connections of various kinds have been used for years in all sorts of environments.

Properly done they can outperform a soldered connection.

It's important to read and understand the specifications and the installation of the specific connector.

Sometimes they need special tools.

Be sure that the connector supports using the kind of wire you hope to use (solid or stranded) and the type of insulation - sometimes there are limitations on the insulation material that the connector can handle.


And there are "suitcase" connectors designed for a "through" (or "run") connection of one wire size range and a "tap" connection for a smaller wire size range.

For example a 3M ScotchLok 905 spec sheet shows this "Conductor Sizes 22 - 18 AWG (Tap), 18 - 14 AWG (Run)".

There is also a 567 which handles 18 - 14 AWG (Tap), 12 - 10 AWG (Run) sizes.



Do not be wary of compression connectors, just be prepared to use them correctly.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

In my opinion a power drop every 3 feet is a bit of overkill. You'll
no doubt be using flex track and the rail conductivity is good
enuf that you would not likely experience voltage drop. I'd go
for every 6 feet or so.

I am using wire nuts for my buss and track drop connection
and have not had any problems with them. But, so many guys have had
very good experience with the 'suitcase' system.

I am an ardent fan of Peco INSULFROG turnouts. Their design
eliminates troublesome derails. You should be aware, tho, that
they are power routing. That means the the frog rail power
is cut off of (for exampl0e) to the diverting track when the turnout
is set for straight (and the inverse also). That would mean you
would need a power drop in the frog rails following a turnout in many cases.
This is important unless you want a 'dead' track for unpowered storage.
In my opinion, the Peco ELECTROFROG turnouts need for extra wiring
is too much trouble with little advantage unless you have that 'odd'
loco with a limited number of power pickup wheels. Most of todays
locos do not need them.

There are those who insist on soldering their rail joiners while
others insist not. On my room size layout I have soldered joints
when there was a problem. The tracks do have some expansion
and contraction unless you have, as I do, constantly conditioned air.
Tracks can kink if all joints are soldered. You can always go back
and add a drop when trouble shows up.

Don


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## DJL1961 (Sep 8, 2014)

Great feedback, thank you! More to think about and consider.


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