# Smoke unit repair parts



## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Here's a pix of the smoke unit repair parts that are involved in the repair of the unit...Left to right is the unit itself, insulating fiber box, top plate with solder lugs, lower plate gasket, lower plate, 10 S183 screws, and the complete wick/wire pre-wound kit. I like using the kits, but I usually un-wind around 4-6 revolutions from the completed kit. I also use a magnifying glass to make sure the coils do not touch each other. Some folks enlarge the wick holes in the unit but I have never done that. Make sure the insulating box is in there, and it's in the correct orientation. You want to be sure the small hole is also clear at the end of the piston chamber. I trim off some of the wick as it extends out the bottom, usually leaving approx 4 inches. I then inter-weave the 2 ends and push it up into the lower chamber. After everything is put together, I'll soak the wick through the top plate hole, and let it sit for several minutes. I then attach 2 wires from the transformer to the solder lugs on the top plate and add a little power. I then wrap my delicate lips around the end of the piston chamber and give it a blow. You should see smoke coming out, and your repair is finished.. I like the pumpkin














spice scented fluid, it makes me hungry,lol.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Thanks for showing this flyernut. I have at least one flyer that needs smoke unit servicing. I have removed top lid to have a look see. That insulating box must go in lower unit. There was nothing in the top except some wick, the coil, and the 2 wires going to the top lid. My upper unit looked very clean and really the wick looked clean. But I have no smoke. I suspect the coil is burned in half somewhere.

I have already bought some wick and some new wire. I will try to make the coil myself. If it doesn't work I will buy wick with coil already on it.

On my smoke unit that does not work at all I dropped plenty of fluid down the hole, nothing. I took lid off, put fluid on the coil and still nothing.

Do you check the ohms when you are done servicing unit? I read where you should have 35 to 40 ohms between the 2 ends of the wire for best smoking. If done correctly, you will get smoke even at low speeds.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

mopac said:


> Thanks for showing this flyernut. I have at least one flyer that needs smoke unit servicing. I have removed top lid to have a look see. That insulating box must go in lower unit. There was nothing in the top except some wick, the coil, and the 2 wires going to the top lid. My upper unit looked very clean and really the wick looked clean. But I have no smoke. I suspect the coil is burned in half somewhere.
> 
> I have already bought some wick and some new wire. I will try to make the coil myself. If it doesn't work I will buy wick with coil already on it.
> 
> ...


Mopac, the insulating box goes into the top portion of the smoke unit, as seen in the pictures. There is a correct orientation, and I've shown that in the second picture. I usually have tons of smoke output after removing approx 4-6 turns off of a pre-wound unit. I never check OHMS on any of my smoke unit re-builds,lol.. That's just me...


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I have no insulator box in mine. Someone has been in there and messed up.

Is the box just to keep coil and wires from touching the metal unit?
I might have to make one. Cereal box cardboard is good for such stuff.

The insulator might be to keep coil from the lid.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I am confused. With that insulator how does wires get to the lid?

Maybe I will take one of my working units apart.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

mopac said:


> I am confused. With that insulator how does wires get to the lid?
> 
> Maybe I will take one of my working units apart.


The wick will thread down the 2 holes, one in each hole. The wick, with the nichrome wire twisted around it, will rest inside the insulator box, so that no bare nichrome wire will touch the smoke unit sides, thus shorting out. Just pull the 2 ends of the wick down tight after you get everything threaded through the 2 holes, and you should be good. If there wasn't a insulating box in there, someone was in there before you, and jacked it up. Your nichrome wire will then thread up through the solder lugs on the top plate. Clean all the old solder from the lugs as the wire has to go up through them. There is a hole there for the wire.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I am a little slow sometimes. The insulator is in correct position in the third picture
from the very top of this thread.

In the picture of the smoke unit resting on a gun the insulator is upside down.

Am I correct?

That pic with the gun is what is throwing me off. Its upside down (the insulator)


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## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

Thanks for the description with pics. Always found it easier to follow written explanations when there were visuals accompanying the text.:thumbsup:


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

mopac said:


> I am a little slow sometimes. The insulator is in correct position in the third picture
> from the very top of this thread.
> 
> In the picture of the smoke unit resting on a gun the insulator is upside down.
> ...


Nope, the smoke unit is standing right side up. It's a optical illusion. I didn't have anything else to prop up the smoke unit so I put it on the revolver. If you notice in the second picture with the revolver, you'll see the hole for the smoke-stack. From the hole there's a a small trench where the fluid will leach down onto the wick and coil of wire, then down into the lower reservoir.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Ok, I see it now. Man, that is an optical illusion. I am going to make an insulator. 
I guess that hole you see in the gun pic is from the piston to puff the smoke. I see
said the blind man.

Any words on the piston and cylinder. As far as cleaning and possible lubrication?


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

mopac said:


> Ok, I see it now. Man, that is an optical illusion. I am going to make an insulator.
> I guess that hole you see in the gun pic is from the piston to puff the smoke. I see
> said the blind man.
> 
> Any words on the piston and cylinder. As far as cleaning and possible lubrication?


Insulators are available through a few sources; if you want to make your own, that's cool. I believe the cereal box cardboard might not stand up to the oils in the fluid. I could be wrong. You're correct when you describe the small hole. Make sure it's clear of any funk.. I use a green scotch-brite pad in the piston chamber, as well as a light scrubbing on the piston itself. A light coat of Vaseline around the cylinder walls helps make a good seal, much like a set of piston rings would do.PortLines have the insulator..


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Thanks flyernut. All good info. I know some on these old flyers but certainly not everything. I do not want to get into changing wheels and the wheel insulators.
I have taken motors apart, new springs and brushes, shined the commutator,
and lubricated the loco, taken side rods apart, and next will be learning to rebuild
the smoke units. Thanks for your pics. A big help. LOL, once my eyes worked right.

I will try the cereal box and once it fits correctly I will soak it some in motor oil, wipe excess off, and
then in a few days see how it is doing. Once it is somewhat oil soaked, smoke fluid will not hurt it.
I also thought of dripping candle wax on it. That would repel smoke fluid. LOL, after all that fails I will contact portliness.
Thanks.

I missed a nice 1948 302 last night. I finished second in the auction. There will be others. I really do not want duplicates but I do want a 302 with the wire hand rails and diecast body. Man, those 342s go for some bucks. I am sure you have 4 or 5 of them.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

mopac said:


> Thanks flyernut. All good info. I know some on these old flyers but certainly not everything. I do not want to get into changing wheels and the wheel insulators.
> I have taken motors apart, new springs and brushes, shined the commutator,
> and lubricated the loco, taken side rods apart, and next will be learning to rebuild
> the smoke units. Thanks for your pics. A big help. LOL, once my eyes worked right.
> ...


I have a 342AC, the complete set.. I only have 1, if you can believe it,lol!!..You have to get a 302 4-piece boiler engine. They are nice!! How much did it sell for, if I may ask??? I might be able to rustle up a spare for a fair price to both of us...


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

The 302 went for 33 something. I bid 32 something. It looked so nice. Maybe a repaint but seller did not say so. Those 342s are going for 80 something.

On those 302s and the hudsons do the hand rails come off real easy so you can clean them up. Those hand rails in nice
shape really make the loco look nice.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

mopac said:


> The 302 went for 33 something. I bid 32 something. It looked so nice. Maybe a repaint but seller did not say so. Those 342s are going for 80 something.
> 
> On those 302s and the hudsons do the hand rails come off real easy so you can clean them up. Those hand rails in nice
> shape really make the loco look nice.


The handrails do come off very easily. I use 2000 wet/dry paper to polish them, or you can buy new ones from PortLines if they are really bad. Some folks, myself included, will buy piano wire or wire stock the same thickness as the original handrails, and make our own. Wire stock can be found on ebay. If you see a 342 on ebay for $80 bucks, buy it!!!!!!! Maybe you meant 322??


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## Larryhyco (Feb 22, 2017)

I now see the parts and will take a look at mine. 
thanks,


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