# Truck post adapters and shims question



## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

After over twenty years of messing with my rolling stock that had Rapido couplers on them originally. I am now trying to resolve some uncoupling issues relative to the trucks and couplers. I have replaced some trucks with Micro Trains couplers. Also, some now have Atlas couplers on them. The main problem seems to be two fold: 1. vertical alignment of the couplers. Where can I find shims that will align the couplers in the same horizontal plane? 2. Some trucks have a larger hole and do not fit perfectly on the post. Are there adapters available to resolve this problem? I am not sure what to call these adapters or proper terminology and I don't know where to go to purchase them. Any suggestions will be welcome.


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## powersteamguy1790 (Mar 26, 2012)

BrokeCurmudgeon said:


> After over twenty years of messing with my rolling stock that had Rapido couplers on them originally. I am now trying to resolve some uncoupling issues relative to the trucks and couplers. I have replaced some trucks with Micro Trains couplers. Also, some now have Atlas couplers on them. The main problem seems to be two fold: 1. vertical alignment of the couplers. Where can I find shims that will align the couplers in the same horizontal plane? 2. Some trucks have a larger hole and do not fit perfectly on the post. Are there adapters available to resolve this problem? I am not sure what to call these adapters or proper terminology and I don't know where to go to purchase them. Any suggestions will be welcome.


Get rid of the Atlas trucks & couplers and switch to all MT trucks and couplers.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Micro Trains trucks*



BrokeCurmudgeon said:


> After over twenty years of messing with my rolling stock that had Rapido couplers on them originally. I am now trying to resolve some uncoupling issues relative to the trucks and couplers. I have replaced some trucks with Micro Trains couplers. Also, some now have Atlas couplers on them. The main problem seems to be two fold: 1. vertical alignment of the couplers. Where can I find shims that will align the couplers in the same horizontal plane? 2. Some trucks have a larger hole and do not fit perfectly on the post. Are there adapters available to resolve this problem? I am not sure what to call these adapters or proper terminology and I don't know where to go to purchase them. Any suggestions will be welcome.


BrokeCurmudgeon;

When you buy Micro Trains trucks they come with three post (official name is "king post") adapters, and some really small washers, in addition to the two pins needed to mount the pair of M/T trucks. Micro Trains trucks and couplers (and everything else they make!) are high quality. and high price. I use M/T trucks with Fox Valley Models brand metal wheels. This combination rolls much better and ads some sorely-needed weight where it does the most good, low down.
As for shims, I would think they would only be possible to use if you are body mounting couplers with screws. In that scenario many things could be used as shims. Brass or styrene strips, or cheaper and probably already in your home, the clear plastic packaging everything comes wrapped in; called "blister packs". Cut to size it should make good shims.
I don't know of any way to shim a truck-mounted coupler. I've never had to. On rare occasion I have needed to raise/lower a truck-mounted coupler by GENTLY bending the projecting piece that the coupler is mounted on. BE CAREFUL! Too much bending pressure will break the coupler mounting off the truck. Since the whole truck is made of Delrin engineering plastic, nothing will glue it back on. 
A good way to get all couplers at the same height is to use a gauge made by M/T for that purpose. An even more accurate way is to drill & file a rectangular notch in the center of an NMRA standards gauge. The notch should be at the height specified by M/T on their website (in VERY small print on one of the diagrams) You will also need to notch the NMRA gauge between the two " track" measuring tabs. This second notch is to allow the magnetic trip pin/ "air hose" to fit under the gauge while the coupler knuckle is in the other notch. By putting the track tabs inside the rails, and rolling a car up to it, you create a very accurate "Go/No Go" type gauge. If the knuckle fits through the notch it's at the correct height. If to low or high, it needs to be adjusted.

Regards;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Photo I forgot*



BrokeCurmudgeon said:


> After over twenty years of messing with my rolling stock that had Rapido couplers on them originally. I am now trying to resolve some uncoupling issues relative to the trucks and couplers. I have replaced some trucks with Micro Trains couplers. Also, some now have Atlas couplers on them. The main problem seems to be two fold: 1. vertical alignment of the couplers. Where can I find shims that will align the couplers in the same horizontal plane? 2. Some trucks have a larger hole and do not fit perfectly on the post. Are there adapters available to resolve this problem? I am not sure what to call these adapters or proper terminology and I don't know where to go to purchase them. Any suggestions will be welcome.


BrokeCurmudgeon;

In my prior answer to your post, I forgot to attach a photo showing the gauge I was trying to describe. On the left are two NMRA N-scale standards gauges. Unfortunately neither is the one I cut a coupler notch in. I own several, and this photo is from an article I wrote about scratch building turnouts. The NMRA gauge is critical to that process, but not the coupler notch. At right top is the Micro Trains gauge. The 'T' -shaped thing at bottom right is another type of track gauge, but ignore it as it has nothing to do with setting coupler height.

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

Thanks Traction Fan
I am totally lost now in trying to figure what MT trucks and Fox Valley wheels to use. So many choices and I have so little knowledge as to what type truck and what size wheel sets to use. I suppose one just "pays your money and takes your chances". The size of the wheel diameter as well as the axle length needed for the type of truck really confuses me. Maybe, I will just buy new rolling stock with Micro-trains trucks. I still don't know what to do about axle length as I don't have a micrometer to measure. Maybe I need to buy one because, after all, it is only money.


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## rrjim1 (Mar 12, 2015)

I don't have any problems running MT and Atlas truck mounted couplers together.
Some pictures might help us understand your problem better.
I wouldn't worry about changing wheel sets until your couplers are all the same height. Using MT truck with couplers are a sure fire way to get all your couplers the same height. A MT gauge IMO is a must to test cars and loco couplers for the correct height. 
Uneven track work will also cause cars to uncouple.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Wheels and trucks.*



BrokeCurmudgeon said:


> Thanks Traction Fan
> I am totally lost now in trying to figure what MT trucks and Fox Valley wheels to use. So many choices and I have so little knowledge as to what type truck and what size wheel sets to use. I suppose one just "pays your money and takes your chances". The size of the wheel diameter as well as the axle length needed for the type of truck really confuses me. Maybe, I will just buy new rolling stock with Micro-trains trucks. I still don't know what to do about axle length as I don't have a micrometer to measure. Maybe I need to buy one because, after all, it is only money.


 BrokeCurmudgeon;

Lets talk about wheels first. The two common diameters offered are 33" and 36". most freight cars (except some giant modern ones) use 33" wheels. Passenger cars generally ride on 36" wheels. Fox Valley, Intermountain, and others, sell both sizes. They also offer a few smaller diameters but these would be used on old time wooden cars, or perhaps as pilot wheels on a steam loco. I would stick with the 33" wheels.
Several axle lengths are made, in order to fit different manufacturer's trucks. The wheel-set package is usually labeled with the brand of trucks the wheels are intended for. For example, if I want to replace the wheels in a M/T freight truck, I look for 33" wheels labeled for Micro Trains. No micrometer needed!
As for truck types, Micro trains offers three different "journal" types. The journals are the place where the axle ends fit into the truck's frame. The types are Bettendorf , Roller Bearing, and Archbar. These are models of the three types of trucks used most commonly on real rail cars. The Bettendorf is the type most widely used from about the 1920s up to the 1960s or 1970s. The real thing had solid bearings located inside a metal journal box. This box was filled with oily rags or cotton waste to lubricate the bearing/axle. They had a small door which could be flipped open to add oil. If the oil got low the bearing could overheat and set fire to the rags. If the crew didn't notice the smoke coming out of the "Hot box", the heat could seize the bearing and break the axle. This was really inconvenient if you were descending a mountain grade on a tall trestle!  So the caboose crew kept a lookout for hotboxes.
Archbar trucks were only used in the early days of railroading. They would be appropriate for wood, "Civil War/ wild west era cars. They had a nasty tendency to come apart, so they were outlawed for interstate commerce early in the twentieth century. 
Roller bearing trucks are what the railroads use today. They have less friction, which saves fuel, and they don't need the attention/ maintenance of the older types. 
In model form, M/T has reproduced the look of these three types. Apart from the Archbar, which has distinctive side frames, the main difference is simply the appearance of the journals. All three accept the same wheels. Micro trains offers all three in plain (without coupler), coupler mounted, and coupler on an extended mount, to fit different types of cars.

Hope that clears up some of your confusion;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

Thanks for taking the time to educate me Traction Fan! I have always admired people who could articulate their years of knowledge.:appl:


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*You're welcome and stay tuned?*



BrokeCurmudgeon said:


> Thanks for taking the time to educate me Traction Fan! I have always admired people who could articulate their years of knowledge.:appl:


BrokeCurmudgeon;

No problem with sharing info, that's what the forum is about. I have something new in the works that might interest you. I have seen many posts about the high cost of Tortoise,($17.95 ea.) and other commercial "switch machines" (those under-the-table things that move the points on a turnout.) I came up with a super simple, and cheap, manual version that you can make in 30min. and the materials cost under $5 ea. Is that something that you would be interested in? Or maybe you are using Atlas turnouts with the solenoid machine attached, and on top of the table. I have one of mine set up on a demo frame, and it works fine. It will be quite awhile before I can post photos, and possibly my first (how the heck do you make em) YouTube video. Don't hold your breath while waiting for either!:laugh:

Regards;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

Thanks again Traction Fan. I, however, model in N Scale and my track and turnouts are Kato Uni-track. If I had more room I would model HO but alas, no room in a one bedroom apartment.


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