# American Flyer 336 help



## schabot

Good afternoon. I am looking for some help. I am a 40 year old guy that now has a son and would like to get him interested in model trains. I was given this particular set as a kid. It first belonged to my uncle. It worked for a long time then as I got a little older, lost interest and so it has sat in a box for upwards of 30 years. 

I literally know nothing about this unit. Scale? or what I need to do to get it up and running again. 

The engine itself needs a little TLC to get parts back reattached, cleaned up etc. Specifically, what should I do to get this ready to roll? 

I believe the tracks are original to the train and are in need of a good cleaning for sure. What do I clean them with? 

The power unit when plugged in, makes the humming sound that I remember as a kid, so I assume that it working propoerly, but I don't know for sure. 

I am a complete novice with this type of thing, but am willing to take the time to see about getting her chugging along again. 

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you!


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## schabot

Here's what I have. THe cars are also missing some pieces that hold the wheels together and the couplings are in tough shape. Again, I appreciate any help/direction. Thanks.


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## tjcruiser

Scabot,

Welcome to the forum. Kids and trains are a great mix ... especially when it's with some old family legacy trains!

I'm a Lionel O guy ... we have a few hard-core Am Flyer S guys here who will likely chime in with more detailed info. That said:

You have AF S gauge (gauge is distance between rails). This is AC powered. The transformer "hum" is a good sign, but with kids around, safety is a concern. Make sure you check the power cord/plug for any signs of wear, fraying, etc. If you have a multimeter, check the output ... should be roughly around 9V to 18V AC.

The trains all need some t.l.c., for sure. Missing wheels/trucks and the like. In case you need parts (or advice), I'd recommend PortLines as a great postwar AF parts source:

http://www.portlines.com/ -- Doug who runs the place is quite helpful.

This "sticky" thread in our S section has a nice list of other AF / S resources:

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=2567

Members Reckers and Stillakid are especially knowledgable, if they happen to chime in here.

Good luck!

TJ


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## flyernut

Nice engine!! I have a K335, identical to yours but with the smaller motor. Business calls, I'll get back to you...


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## ChopperCharles

You're in for quite a bit of work there.

The loco is not going to run right now, that's largely a guarantee. First take off the shell, then remove the motor. Chuck the armature into a drill and spin it, while using a scotchbrite pad or fine sandpaper to clean the surface as it spins. Blow out any crap from the crevasses between the armature sections. Clean the brushes with Radio Shack brand electronics cleaner -- it's the only stuff that's not flammable. (and trust me, if you use the flammable stuff, you will eventually set **** on fire. I certainly did, and I was being careful)

Remove the bottom access panel (or in some cases the entire bottom of the loco chassis) and clean out all the 70 year old grease. Grease liberally with automotive high temp axle grease.


I'm not sure if this loco has the reverse unit in the loco shell or in the tender. If it's in the loco shell, it'll be a small box with a bunch of wires connected. There will be a lever on the outside and a drum inside the box with metal contacts on it. Get a Q-tip and more radio shack cleaner, and clean the hell out of the drum. Remove the contact plates and clean the contacts as well. A standard #2 pencil eraser will help you with the tough areas on the drum. Be careful not to bend the fingers. Check that the fingers aren't worn completely through - if they are, you'll need to replace them. Make sure everything works smoothly - you can add some power now to see if the unit cycles correctly. 

Reassemble the motor, making sure to add a couple drops of light machine oil to the bushing surfaces on the armature, and to install the spacer washers correctly so the armature doesn't have any slop (they should go on the side closest to the front of the locomotive)

Carefully reassemble the wheel linkages, and use a little light machine oil on them as well.

Remove all of the tender wheels, an clean them with radio shack electronics cleaner and a scotchbrite pad. Never use sandpaper or worse -- steel wool, to clean your trains or track. The steel wool will get picked up by the magnets in the motors, and the sandpaper will take the plating off the track and loco parts.

Clean the wipers an the axles of the tender wheels as well, and check the spacing of the wheels. A dime should just fit between the inner flanges. Reinstall wheels, attach alligator clips to the axles and slowly bring the transformer up. The loco should work now. BE CAREFUL and start it slowly. If you buggered up the linkages you don't want to give it full throttle from the get go and have them bend and mangle. Run it for a good 10 minutes, at different speeds, even if it's just sitting on the bench. It will need some bedding-in time. You will likely notice it start to get faster after a few minutes.

Now the tender for this I believe is a smoke-in-tender. I've never fixed one of these, and I'm not sure if it's a bellows or piston type. Either one, you'll need a new wick kit from portlines and probably some gaskets as well. Same basic procedure as before - disassemble and clean the armature and everything else.

Nothing really ever goes bad in these locos, they just need cleaned and occasionally a wear item (fingers, brushes, etc) replace. 

Often they need to be re-wired as well, as the wires get old and tired from constant bending, so brush up on your soldering skills too. They're really simple, and will last another 60 years with proper maintenance.

Charles.


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## T-Man

I don't think there are too many Rollinsfords around. 

The weekend of the 17th at the SHri ners in Wilmington is the areas biggest show, this side of Boston.
Portline Hobby will be there so make your AF list.:thumbsup:


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## ChopperCharles

Oh yeah, once the loco is running, then run it at high speed and use scotchbrite to clean the drive wheels. Otherwise all the dirt and crap from decades of use and storage will get on your nice clean track.

Charles.


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## Stillakid

*Some More Info...........*

Welcome!
Here are some wiring diagrams and parts list to help make the list for your repairs. Hope it helps!

Jim

View attachment 16173


View attachment 16174


View attachment 16175


View attachment 16176


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## Stillakid

*Wiring Diagram........*

View attachment 16177


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## Stillakid

Schabot, your smoke unit will be in the boiler. The tender should have your reversing unit and air chime whistle speaker. Do you have the Air Chime Whistle button with the tube? Also, was the 2 sections of track that you showed the "best?", or the, "worst?" 
Feel free to PM me if you have any other questions.
Regards,
Jim


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## flyernut

Your 336 will have the smoke chamber in the boiler. It also has choo, choo, and a lighted headlamp. You'll also have a air-chime whistle in the tender, which you will need a air chime controller for it to work. There's always some on ebay. The generator tube is what you'll have to be carefull with, as sometimes they do not work, (air chime unit controller). American Flyer built their stuff so tough and well, I wouldn't be surprised if you put that engine on a test track and she might fire right up. If you do try this, make sure you have smoke fluid in the chamber. You can buy it at any train shop. You don't want to run it dry as you'll burn out the unit. They are easily replaced however. You're going to need a screw to hold the trailing truck in place, also available.If you decide to take your engine apart, first start with the tender by pulling off the jack plug in back of the engine. I believe the plug will have 5 wires on it, and you'll have to unsolder that fifth wire. It is the one that stands off by itself, on top of the plug. After that is done, remove the smokestack FIRST!!! You will not get the insides out if you don't do this first, and if you don't remove it, you'll break it, but also replaced/bought easily. Take poicture of every area of the engine before dis-assembly. You MUST get the driving rods and linkage in the correct location for it to run!. Put the linkage and rods in the same position as they came off. If you get it wrong, they will bind and the engine will not run.
On the tender you can remove the drum by spreading open the reverse unit slightly after you remove the 2 sets of fingers. Just twist the little metal tabs that hold the finger sets on until they are straight and you can remove the fingers. Slip the drum out and clean it up nice and shiny. Scotchbright works great here. Reassemble using VERY LITTLE OIL!!! The reason many of these units give you trouble is people tend to oil them too much, and the oil picks up dirt/grime and then the unit sticks.Also, you have one of the premier locos Flyer ever produced. It's value, the way it sits right now, is around $400 bucks or more, even not working. Don't let some sharpie offer you $100 bucks for it "because it's broke and needs repair". The cars are a different matter. If they are really rusty, I'd just get the same ones on ebay or a train show. Everything else in your pictures suggests to me they can be fixed without too much of a bother. I love projects like this!! If you were closer, I'd be more than willing to help you through this great project, and even now, just post here and a lot of good people will help you out, no questions asked.


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## flyernut

Looking over your engine again, there are several parts/pieces missing from it. It appears that you're missing one of the number boards on the front of the engine. Also, the bar that holds the tender screw has come off the back of the cab. You'll have to get some small push pins to hold the bar in place. I can see on the tender one of the steps is missing on the back. All these little things detract from the value, but it's till a VERY desirable engine to have.


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## flyernut

As far as your cars, new/used trucks can be purchased, again, on ebay, cheap, or you can repair yours. Rivets/bushing are also available for re-attaching the trucks. When cleaning cars, I like to remove the bases from the shells by removing the 4 small push oins from under the chassis. BE CAREFUL! when removing. Do not pry against the plastic as the plastic is close to 60 years old, and very brittle. They also might be rusted it so easy! Get some PB Blaster andlet them soak a little. Once you separate the chassis from the body, I use a very mild dish washing soak, a couple of drops, in a small platter or bowl, and then scrub, using a toothbrush. Stay away from any decals, and easy on the scrubbing. I think all of Gilberts lettering was heat-stamped so they are pretty much indestructible.When done, dry and hit the cars with a couple of shots of "Pledge" spray furniture polish. It REALLY dresses them up and will not hurt the plastic. I use a 2 inch paint brush to get into all of the nooks and crannies, and then wipe off and polish. They will look NEW!! Get yourself a Dremel kit! You're going to need it and besides, it's ANOTHER tool for your work area. YAY!!!


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## ChopperCharles

Interesting, I was looking at the info for the wrong loco! Advice is still solid, just ignore the smoke in tender part  Reverse unit is inside the tender!

Charles.


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## flyernut

I had a K335 set as a kid, but Dad sold all the flyers years ago. Always loved that big ole brute.


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## Reckers

Schabot, welcome to the forum! Sorry I didn't chime in sooner, but I was out of town. What you have is a real beauty of a locomotive, and it's definitely salvagable, as are your cars. It might seem like a daunting task, but it's really not---just a little patience, average dexterity and mechanical aptitude are enough to do the job. Remember, these thigs were made for kids to use and maintain, so it's not rocket science. If I can offer a suggestion, break it down to one chore at a time. Start working out of the S scale area of the forum (that's what you have), and just let us know what task you're about to undertake. You'll get more than enough coaching and advice to walk you through it. Also, don't throw any parts away. That pile of parts you have can be used to reassemble your cars and restore them to running order.

Best wishes with it, and don't be shy about asking questions---we thrive on helping people restore these old gems.


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## schabot

First of all. A big thank you to everyone for all the input. I thought this might be a bit of a task. It will definitely take some time. 

To answer one of the questions asked of me regarding the tracks. They are just pictures of what I have. Not the best or the worst. I also have the 4 way crossover that I guess would make a figure 8. It would be a big one because I think I have about 30+/- pieces of track. 

Another question, what would be the best plan of attack? Clean the tracks first so that they can at least be tested or start with the actual engine itself and go from there. 

What kind of value does something like this have? Current condition and after repairs? Just curious. 

Again, all the insight is appreciated. Thanks. 

~Scott


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## ChopperCharles

Start with the loco, then worry about tracks and finally the cars.

I do believe portlines will refurbish your loco for a fee as well.

Charles.


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## tjcruiser

I'd add checking out the transformer for safety/voltage output to the priority list, too. (See prior comments, above.)

Shabot, as you can see, we have a great group of guys here who will gladly coach you along the way. We all (even the "dark side" Lionel O guys like me!) get a kick out of seeing old, derelict trains sets brought back to life. With some elbow grease and t.l.c., you have a good shot ... these vintage trains were built to last.

Great to have you onboard,

TJ


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## schabot

Oh, so Lionel here is like modern Bose is to the audio world? The "black sheep" of the clan? 

I also have a Tyco HO scale that I had too. It is really beat, but I have some of it. Worth looking into? It's from the early 80's I'd say. 

Thanks again! 

~Scott


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## tjcruiser

schabot said:


> Oh, so Lionel here is like modern Bose is to the audio world? The "black sheep" of the clan?


Other way around, actually. We more sophisticated O enthusiasts will, on occassion, tolerate having the "black sheep" S-gaugers in our kingdom. 

As for Tyco, it's generally low-grade HO, though it was quite the popular commodity back in the 1970's. My first HO set as a kid was Tyco, and I'm very glad that I had it saved and tucked away for many years ... to the point where I dusted it off and built an HO setup for my kids. The Tycos are not great runners, and they are difficult to fix (finding parts is a chore), but there's lots of nostalgia there, and I'm thrilled to see my own kids playing with my childhood trains.

Check out this "Brown Box" i.d. site ...

http://tycotrain.tripod.com/tycotrains/

Cheers,

TJ


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## ChopperCharles

I would say American Flyer is the Stacked Advents of the audio world. Under-appreciated, awesome, and yet take a significant sacrifice to own. Lionel is just your average pioneer speaker, dime a dozen, but sound pretty damn good regardless 

Charles.


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## flyernut

My local train shop, which in your case doesn't do you any good, charges $55 bucks for a complete tear down, ultrasonic cleaning, rewiring if needed, and test run. Like that misinformed O gauger said, start with the transformer, for safety's sake. Remember, it's old, and the cord could be brittle. I would do the track next, as that will take the longest. Then do the cars for a little more experience, and then tackle the loco.And of course, I was just funnin' about that crack concerning the O guy,lol.......LOL= laughing out loud, or....lots of love? lol...


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## ChopperCharles

The thing is, if the loco doesn't work the track isn't of much use, I'd get the loco done first! You can always go out to the hobby store an spend a few bucks on a loop of brand new track... that locomotive is one of the more pricey models, so it would be in your best interest to get it up and running!

Charles.


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## Reckers

tjcruiser said:


> Other way around, actually. We more sophisticated O enthusiasts will, on occassion, tolerate having the "black sheep" S-gaugers in our kingdom.
> 
> As for Tyco, it's generally low-grade HO, though it was quite the popular commodity back in the 1970's. My first HO set as a kid was Tyco, and I'm very glad that I had it saved and tucked away for many years ... to the point where I dusted it off and built an HO setup for my kids. The Tycos are not great runners, and they are difficult to fix (finding parts is a chore), but there's lots of nostalgia there, and I'm thrilled to see my own kids playing with my childhood trains.
> 
> Check out this "Brown Box" i.d. site ...
> 
> http://tycotrain.tripod.com/tycotrains/
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> TJ




Sophisticated O Gaugers? S scale "black sheep"???? My, how brave they become when I leave town for the weekend! *LOL* However, I do acknowledge there is a seed of truth in the statement. O gaugers are what the more sophisticated users of wooden trains become when they are reaching for the stars. Sad to say, what they think are stars are the sparks thrown from the stacks of American Flyer steamers! Still, it's better to try and fail than to never try at all---even if they still end up with training wheels on their trains.


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## tjcruiser

Touché, my friend ... Touché! :thumbsup:


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## Nuttin But Flyer

schabot --

Just saw this thread about your "find". That is a real beauty and what these other guys have said is very true -- that big boy is worth a bundle, give it lots of TLC when restoring it. I have a 334DC which is very similar to yours although it runs on the "other" power -- DC or direct current. I need to use a rectifier with an AF transformer to make it run. Why AF made both types is still beyond me? Maybe one of these other guys can explain it. But my 334DC needs some TLC to get it back into running shape. What ever you do, please, please, please document your steps with pictures and plenty of descriptive text and post it here. Not only will these "S" guys give you pointers and guidance with each step, but I, as well as many others, will benefit from your experiences. Thanks and lots of luck. Post a video of it running after you finish. I'm sure we all would enjoy watching it rolling to life and smoking once again.


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