# O Scale Workbench Projects????



## subwayaz (Dec 26, 2009)

Okay Big scale operators; what's on your workbench??
Or is that worktable for the larger scale folks???


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Half my stuff.


Actually my plans for all the upcoming trains shows, and pieces and pieces of 022 switches.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Hey gents,

I just received an ebay box of misc O27 track and a pair of manual switches (my first!). The track needs a bit of cleaning. I'm starting to think about a little O layout ... narrow, though ... maybe 32" deep, max.

T-Man ... I grabbed the ebay lot not for the track, but for a 1015 transformer in great condition, to replace "our" little Mr. Science project from a few weeks ago. I don't plan on using it (got the new CW-80 going), but I wanted to reconstitute the components that came with my old #1590 set from '58.

Are you planning on going to the Greenberg show at the Shriner's Hall in Mass on March 27/28? I'll be there with kids in tow.

TJ


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## Boston&Maine (Dec 19, 2007)

I wish I had an actual work bench... This stuff will be getting worked on soon... I am not looking to keep much of it... My hope is to be able to keep one of the 6462 gondolas and the red 6562 gondola... I may keep the milk cars depending on their condition, but they both need doors... Based on the pictures I should be able to build 12 cars, and then be left with like 10 or so frames / shells... Whatever I do not want will be resold... I really bought it for the pickup roller trucks and the locomotive headlight lens, LOL... It should keep me busy once it arrives


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

B&M,

Is that a full loco, or just a boiler shell? What type?

TJ


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## Boston&Maine (Dec 19, 2007)

It is a Scout type boiler, and it is just the shell... Both marker lights are broken off it though...


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

With a bow,you shorten the length , then with both side in place press them down into the slots.


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## ogauge47 (Nov 6, 2009)

Lionel 3RS Woodside caboose in NYC









Scratchbuilt transfer caboose









Lykens Valley 40' hi-cube wood kit. 3RS


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## bigtrucker2007 (Feb 15, 2010)

Lionel: scout 242 
lionel 8625

a ton of HO stuff


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## Boston&Maine (Dec 19, 2007)

Humpty Dumpty got put back together again


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

B&M,

Those gondolas cleaned up BEAUTIFULLY! If you do decide to part with one or two, I'd be quite interested.

TJ


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## Boston&Maine (Dec 19, 2007)

My new SD-90 MACs arrived today and the powered one is on my work bed (LOL) getting ready to be regreased


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## Boston&Maine (Dec 19, 2007)

Today my powered SD90MAC went back onto my work bench... The previous owner either overfilled the smoke unit at one point, or shipped it when there was still smoke fluid in it... Anyways, there was a nice layer of it coating the floor of the frame... I completely disassembled everything, including the electronics to make sure that I was able to wipe up everything


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## imatt88 (Jan 31, 2010)

*Alco update*

Hey all,


Just a quick update on my Lionel Alcos. Finally got some motivation to do some needed bodywork on the shells.









Someday they will get new paint and decals

Cheers, Ian


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

imatt88 said:


> Hey all,
> 
> 
> Just a quick update on my Lionel Alcos. Finally got some motivation to do some needed bodywork on the shells.
> ...



Why don't you just attach pictures here?
You don't seem to have much luck with photo bucket.:laugh:


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## imatt88 (Jan 31, 2010)

Yeah, its weird. I inserted the image like your supposed to, and it works, then the pic just disappears

I tried it again, we'll see what happens


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

It's Halloween ... things are SUPPOSED to just dissappear!

Nice to see you back in with the Alcos. You had replaced the cowcatcher thing (name???) on one or two of those a while back, didn't you?

Cheers,

TJ


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## imatt88 (Jan 31, 2010)

TJ,

I got some metal replacements for them from someone here, but the body work would have been extensive, so I decided to shelve them for a while.

Dug them out Friday and used plastic square stock and sheet to replace broken parts.

Now all I need is decals...

Cheers, Ian


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

imatt88 said:


> ... used plastic square stock and sheet to replace broken parts


Ahhh ... I see that now ... the white on the bottom and sides. Nice work ... that curve around the front looks well suited to the loco.

TJ


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## imatt88 (Jan 31, 2010)

TJ,

Thanks


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Just finished up restoration work on my Lionel 652 gondola, and am midway through another 1681 loco redo.

The workbench(s) themselves are showpieces of disorginizational chaos! Tools tossed everywhere. Too many half-empty spray paint cans. Little dixie cups of misc parts. Dirty rags, and about a zillion grungy used Q-tips.

I gotta ... I mean I really, REALLY gotta block out some time to ...

Ohh ... what the hell ... I've come this far ...

TJ


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## imatt88 (Jan 31, 2010)

TJ,

:ttiwwop:


HA, HA, I just wanted to do that:laugh:


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

*Winter O Workbench Update*

Hi guys,

It was 9 degrees in RI this morning. Much too cold to paint, so I'm spending the long winter tackling the mechanical repairs and motor rebuilds on several loco projects.

Clockwise from top (all Lionel O prewar) ...

#258 loco. Motor rebuilt. Shell awaits stripping.

#1688 loco. Motor rebuilt. Shell awaits stripping.

#1681 Lionel Jr. Motor ... rebuilt.

# ??? Another Lionel Jr. Motor, perhaps from a 258. That's it's e-unit in pieces off to the right getting a tuneup.

#1681 loco shells (only) x 3 ... semi-rough condition. One of these (t.b.d.) will get the rebuilt 1681 motor. Another one might (???) get the soon-to-be-rebuilt other Jr motor.

It's some sick addiction with me, really ... these 1681's. I have 3 fully restored ones (as seen in other threads), plus these other 3 shells shown here, plus the 1 or 2 motors to bring them (hopefully) back to life.

Anway ... the doldrums of winter are keeping me busy. I'm looking forward to warm and sunny skies, though, where I can spray away on sprucing up the shell components.

Cheers,

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You're right, that is a sick addiction! 

How many of those do you need? How about painting them in different colors so there's some variety?


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I am thinking about other colors. I might even clear-coat / bare metal one, or maybe gun-blue one!

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

A blued one would be really neat!


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## inxy (Dec 10, 2010)

Just finished an e-unit repair, need to finish the Flying Yankee paint/restore, waiting on a drive wheel for a 1666 loco. Also waiting on parts for various signals. Need to finish a clean job on a F3 B unit. In between wiring switch controllers mounted on the control panel. Now that I'm running some trains I find nit picking things in the tract that are causing minor derails. Work bench + layout = work area. A lot going on and sometimes something actually gets finished.

B


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## santafe158 (Jul 14, 2010)

*What's been on your workbench lately?*

I know there's an N scale thread with the same title, but I'm more into the O gauge side of the forum. So, without further to do, what's been on your workbench lately? Structures, Locomotives, Cars, anything O scale is welcome.

My latest creation that has been posted before is my Williams 773 hudson with TMCC and Railsounds. Great engine for the money.










A couple years ago now I bought my 736 berkshire. It was a real joy to operate at first (sarcasm) , but with a little care, cleaning and lubrication it is one of my best runners now. 









Before that I worked on a 2037 2-6-4 that had been my grandpa's. My dad somewhere along the line had lost the rods, a wheel had been knocked off and the E unit needed some work. A parts donor was bought and the rods and E unit were used to put my grandpa's 2037 back into service









Before that, my first locomotive, a Lionel 4-4-2 was in the backshop for some heavy repairs. At one point, it took a dive off of my old train layout onto the basement floor (I learned real quick not to leave it in neutral with the transformer turned all the way up). A wheel was knocked off and the paint chipped along the edges. At that time, i had no idea of how to paint a locomotive and my touchup attempts failed drastically. The wheel was repaired with a little loc-tite. A few years later I decided to try the repaint again (I had a little more experience then). I wish I would have stripped it a little better and taken a little more time to get a smooth paint job, but it looks pretty good for a first time repainter.


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

do you have any videos of the Williams 773? It looks like a great locomotive.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

We already have an O "workbench" thread ... I've moved the two posts above to there.

Nice locos, Sante Fe!

TJ


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## santafe158 (Jul 14, 2010)

Thanks TJ. I thought I remembered seeing one, just couldn't remember where.

Here are some videos of the 773

As bought, no fancy electronics: ttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Krlk8RKN0Xs&feature=channel_video_title

ERR Cruise Commander Added: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aK06WdGmtPw&feature=relmfu

ERR Railsounds Commander Added: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k621Vhqm_GQ&feature=channel_video_title


Oh, and going back in time, OGauge47 posted a picture of his 3RS NYC woodside caboose. I bought it off of him and added lettering to it.


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## tyconator (May 5, 2011)

I got my Lionel 671RR and my 494 slated up fer some major TLC!


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

This is a "BEFORE" photo. Nothing great, but the first vehicle that might be kind of cool (for me). I found this 1/43 scale die-cast of a 2000 Chevrolet Venture minivan, decked out as a police cruiser. I know that 1/48 is the actual O Scale in the USA, but 1/43 is close enough for what I want to do. The Police light bar is missing, and the car was less than a buck. As you know, 1/43 scale vehicles can sometimes be hard to come by. Anyway, we own a 1999 Chevy Venture minivan (which is really the spitting image of the 2000) and what I plan to do is paint this one a metallic coffee tan to look like our own. I'll use the holes on top where the light bar was to install a model CB antenna and I'll have to install a green surfboard on the roof for accuracy. I'll likely have to carve the surfboard from balsa or something and then paint it. I'll use a small sewing pin for the CB antenna. The tailgate glass is missing, so I'll have to fabricate that - probably from an old cassette case. There was a large and ungainly trailer hook on the rear (which our van doesn't have) so that's been removed with a coping saw, and then it was sanded. I still have to "clip" out the headlights, grill, and dashboard. They will be glued back in after the van has been painted. This is my first go at something like this, so I hope it works.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Try the clear semi-hard plastic from any heat-wrapped-sealed product ... the ones that you have to cut around the perimeter with a scissors to open. My guess is that the plastic will be a bit more flexible for your needs (to contour to the window) than a harder casette case.

Surf's up, dude!

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

TJ is correct, those impossible to open packages yield some really solid clear plastic that is bendable but very robust.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Thanks, for the 2nd, John.

I had to Google for the proper name ... "clamshell packaging" ... a.k.a. ... p.i.t.a. packaging!

TJ


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## eljefe (Jun 11, 2011)

PITA is right. I've had to use a Dremel to open some of those things.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I have a bunch of the larger pieces of those packages saved, they make great windows, I've replaced a few with these.


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

I've made some progress with the model van - the paint is done, and I've "shaped" the surfboard and "mocked up" a CB antenna (old pin with yellow head painted black). I am going to rifle through the wife's and the daughter's nail polish to find some "tail-light red" and use that. The All I have to do is paint the surfboard and affix it to the roof.

Anyway, so you guys know what the prototype looks like - here it is:


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

That's what I need for the table, PIGEONS! They go with the discarded wheels and hubs.


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## AG216 (Sep 28, 2011)

Boston&Maine said:


> Humpty Dumpty got put back together again


Soon I will run mine too!
I think that is a very elegant and well done gondola!
Andre.


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## AG216 (Sep 28, 2011)

subwayaz said:


> Okay Big scale operators; what's on your workbench??
> Or is that worktable for the larger scale folks???


I am running a 12x4 ft layout with a lot of fun and operation.
first you need to decide what you want, trains with scenery or scenery with trains or a balance.
here my layout








Andre.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Nice layout. Realistic action-packed setting. I especially like the oil-stains running down each lane of the roadway. Clever weathering.

Thanks for sharing,

TJ


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

Nice layout, Andre. What do they call a layout that doesn't follow any sort of prototype area? Freestyle? Freeform? Fun? Because that's what I plan on doing this year with my Christmas layout that is strictly seasonal.

- Paul in AZ


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

Here is the model minivan, pretty much done, but taking critique for improvement ideas:


















I know she doesn't have the fin on the board, and the license plate isn't painted it, but we're talking about details that may be beyond my skill level at this time.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

The van looks quite nice. Maybe use a black Sharpie pen to add a few highlights to the door handles, corner bumper strips, etc.? Would add some extra depth, I think.

Do you have a drum sander? Something like 1.5"" diameter that you would mount in a drill chuck. If so, I'd suggest that you use it to "sculpt out" the top surface of the surfboard more, reducing the edge thickness in the middle, and adding a bit more front-to-back curve sweep to it. (The axis of the drum would point sideways, and you'd move the drill laterally a bit while scuplting the board.)

Just a thought ...

TJ


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Badwolf & Arizona RR said:


> Nice layout, Andre. What do they call a layout that doesn't follow any sort of prototype area? Freestyle? Freeform? Fun? Because that's what I plan on doing this year with my Christmas layout that is strictly seasonal.
> 
> - Paul in AZ


I believe the term is freelance.


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

tjcruiser said:


> The van looks quite nice. Maybe use a black Sharpie pen to add a few highlights to the door handles, corner bumper strips, etc.? Would add some extra depth, I think.
> 
> Do you have a drum sander? Something like 1.5"" diameter that you would mount in a drill chuck. If so, I'd suggest that you use it to "sculpt out" the top surface of the surfboard more, reducing the edge thickness in the middle, and adding a bit more front-to-back curve sweep to it. (The axis of the drum would point sideways, and you'd move the drill laterally a bit while scuplting the board.)
> 
> ...


I'm pretty sure I'll leave this board alone, but I may work on one to replace it and take your ideas into consideration. I formed this one with a dremel sander - I had to do everything by hand - I don't have a "bench mount" - per se - to steady the work. I have a black Sharpie and will fill in more of the black areas for more detail - good idea. Thanks.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Badwolf,
I have a belt sander (handheld type). I took some scrap wood and built a stand for it to hold it upright. Pretty nifty arrangement. I even made a wooden platform at 90 degrees to the belt to hold my work stable. I use the belt sander frequently now. When it was a handheld unit I almost never used it. You could easily thin your surfboard with this setup.
-Art


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

Artieiii said:


> Badwolf,
> I have a belt sander (handheld type). I took some scrap wood and built a stand for it to hold it upright. Pretty nifty arrangement. I even made a wooden platform at 90 degrees to the belt to hold my work stable. I use the belt sander frequently now. When it was a handheld unit I almost never used it. You could easily thin your surfboard with this setup.
> -Art


My hand-held belt sander is a beast, and I use it on pretty much all my "flat" projects. It's an old Black and Decker job (back when they made tools to last) and it takes a 3X24 belt (I think, maybe 3X21?). I guess I could rig something up, but I still think it would chew up this light balsa wood and spit it out faster that you could say "Bob's your uncle." I'll hunt around and keep experimenting.

If you have a photo of your jig for the belt sander, that would be great - it would give me a place to start, idea-wise.

Thanks.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Badwolf & Arizona RR said:


> My hand-held belt sander is a beast, and I use it on pretty much all my "flat" projects. It's an old Black and Decker job (back when they made tools to last) and it takes a 3X24 belt (I think, maybe 3X21?). I guess I could rig something up, but I still think it would chew up this light balsa wood and spit it out faster that you could say "Bob's your uncle." I'll hunt around and keep experimenting.
> 
> If you have a photo of your jig for the belt sander, that would be great - it would give me a place to start, idea-wise.
> 
> Thanks.


Mine is an old black and decker job as well (I think). Put some a fine sanding belt on there and go real slow. Works like a charm. I will take a pic of my apparatus later on (if I remember).
-Art


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## AG216 (Sep 28, 2011)

tjcruiser said:


> The van looks quite nice. Maybe use a black Sharpie pen to add a few highlights to the door handles, corner bumper strips, etc.? Would add some extra depth, I think. TJ


I thought the same!
around the doors too.
well done!
Andre.


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## AG216 (Sep 28, 2011)

Badwolf & Arizona RR said:


> Nice layout, Andre. What do they call a layout that doesn't follow any sort of prototype area? Freestyle? Freeform? Fun? Because that's what I plan on doing this year with my Christmas layout that is strictly seasonal.
> 
> - Paul in AZ


I base my layout in a North small town named AYER, MA.
nothing strict....freelance but trying to keep the scale proportions!
Andre.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

I found this pic online. My setup is a similar idea. Mine wraps around the belt sander and the "shelf" that holds the work at 90 degrees to the belt squeezes the 2 halves of the contraption together. This way I pull the "shelf" off and the sander pulls out in case I need to use it as a handheld unit. Each sander has a different design so you will have to figure out how best to hold it in place without interfering with the belt.








-Art


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Badwolf,
Here is a picture of my belt sander holder. Made all from scraps of plywood left over from other projects.
-Art


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Art,

I like that. Clever. Simple. Very functional. Did I say I like that, already?!? If not ... I LIKE that!

Is the belt sander easily removed for stand-alone work, or is it more permanently mounted?

TJ


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

tjcruiser said:


> Art,
> 
> I like that. Clever. Simple. Very functional. Did I say I like that, already?!? If not ... I LIKE that!
> 
> ...


TJ,
When I made it, the idea was to have it easily removable. The top pops off (it holds the sides together under pressure) the the "table" slides into dado cuts on the sides of the box and it too adds pressure to the sides. However since I put it in there I use it all the time and have not found a need to remove it except to change the belt. As a handheld unit belt sanders are difficult to control and cut very aggressively. Much more useful this way. This goes along with the idea of going to Home Depot searching for things to be used in unintended ways. LOL

All the wood is from scraps left over from my Lionel train display cases.
-Art


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, while I was watching the command controlled locomotives cruising around, and the TMCC controlled Milk Car spitting milk cans all over the floor, I got to thinking. What self-respecting engineer would fail to have the means to drop of a keg or two anywhere along the tracks? So, I set out to solve that problem.

The TMCC Command Control Operating Barrel car.


*Here we go, looks harmless enough, but note that it's operating on a curve, no uncoupling / operating track in sight. *











*The secret is out, look inside and you find the ERR Mini-Commander.*











*Looking under the car, it doesn't look like the traditional barrel car, no shoes for the operating track. We do need power however, so they're changed for power pickup trucks. *


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Some may remember my Fort Knox Express that I painted a while back. I scored his first car, just have to figure out how this should be refinished. 

*The Ft. Knox Express, soon to get his decal, I got the paper on order finally.*











Now the new arrival, which puts me somewhat in a quandary. If I paint the load gold, the car will probably look somewhat silly also painted gold. Should I just paint the load and leave the car it's current color? That's the direction I'm leaning.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

The picture makes it look like silver bars are they gold?

Doesn't matter what I say you are going to do what you want to do anyway.

I say gold.......you thought I would say Alien green?:laugh:

Gold, the whole train, caboose and all.:thumbsup:


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I just reread it John, why not leave the load silver and paint the car gold.
Silver is worth money too.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I was thinking of painting the load gold, since they don't store silver in Ft. Knox.  I need to have some sort of interesting caboose for the train as well, still thinking on that one. This thing just came along on eBay, so I snagged it for a pretty cheap price. NIB, and it's a nice car, sprung metal trucks and couplers, etc.


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## santafe158 (Jul 14, 2010)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I need to have some sort of interesting caboose for the train as well, still thinking on that one.



How about this? 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lionel-6-17...l_RR_Trains&hash=item415e563bd2#ht_784wt_1165


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

For a Ft. Knox look, how about painting the load gold, and the car a nice satin black. I think the black/gold contrast would look nice, kind of spy-like or CIA-like, and also pick up on the black coal load in the tender a bit.

My 2 cents ...

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

santafe158 said:


> How about this?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lionel-6-17...l_RR_Trains&hash=item415e563bd2#ht_784wt_1165


Only if I can buy it with someone else's money!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

tjcruiser said:


> For a Ft. Knox look, how about painting the load gold, and the car a nice satin black. I think the black/gold contrast would look nice, kind of spy-like or CIA-like, and also pick up on the black coal load in the tender a bit.
> 
> My 2 cents ...
> 
> TJ


Black would be cool. My wife chipped in and told me that gold and blue are nice together, so maybe I'll start by painting the load gold and see what that looks like. I won't lose any time, since the other painting would be separate steps anyway.

If this train gets looking too good, I may have to upgrade the set to TMCC.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

I vote for black like the coal in the tender for the car color definitely gold for the bars inside. I was wondering when you were gonna finish this project up.
-Art


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, I was really trying to get brave enough to try decals, I think I'll do some practice runs with some other stuff first. The locomotive and tender are ready except for the road name and number.

When I paint the gold, I'll put it all on the tracks and see what I think. I'm thinking I need a caboose yet, I'll have to check my closet and see what I have there. I must have a likely candidate there.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, while I was waiting for my decal paper, I decided to convert the lighting on another of the PARR passenger cars. These are Williams aluminum cars. They had two light bulbs with nothing below the dome, it just opened to the car below. This car now has 21 LED bulbs to light it. I put in a floor, then made seats of some scrap mahogany and dug out my seated Chinese eBay figures. The figures needed a footectmy to fit into the seats, but you can't really tell. I previously did the observation car, so now I have the baggage car and the passenger car to go, those should be much easier, just a strip of lights. 

All of the lights are powered on one 20MA CL2 current source, nice light for 20ma!

*Floor installed and seats and passengers in place.*










*Dome Lighting installed.*










*Dome installed onto the car.*










*Ditto.*










*Interior lighting strips installed.*










*Finished car in brightly lit room.*










*Finished car in dimly lit room.*


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## plandis (Oct 5, 2011)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Well, while I was waiting for my decal paper, I decided to convert the lighting on another of the PARR passenger cars. These are Williams aluminum cars. They had two light bulbs with nothing below the dome, it just opened to the car below. This car now has 21 LED bulbs to light it. I put in a floor, then made seats of some scrap mahogany and dug out my seated Chinese eBay figures. The figures needed a footectmy to fit into the seats, but you can't really tell. I previously did the observation car, so now I have the baggage car and the passenger car to go, those should be much easier, just a strip of lights.
> 
> All of the lights are powered on one 20MA CL2 current source, nice light for 20ma!
> 
> ...



Very nicely done! Question about those LED strips. I assume they are cut-to-length. I think a read that you use a CC IC to power them up. Is there one you could recommend. do you recommend using a CAP also? I do have a roll of LEDs coming from Mauser electronics.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The LED strips I use are designed to run on 12 volts, they can be cut on ever three LED segment. If you look at the dome lighting, that's the smallest piece, one three LED unit. While you were ordering from Mouser, you should have ordered the CL-2 regulator, that's the one I use.  I use a full wave bridge rectifier, 47uF 100V cap, and the CL-2 regulator. If you're running conventional, I'd consider using a voltage doubler circuit, that will be two diodes and two electrolytic caps. These work good down to about 8-9 volts track voltage, and I could have cut that down another volt or two by shunting the resistors in each 3 LED group, but I didn't feel the need. With a voltage doubler in front of the CL2, it'll run down to as low as you can crank your conventional transformer.

You can use either the CL2N3-G for 20MA or the CL25N-G for 25MA.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Exellent job, those look really good!:thumbsup:


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Thanks, it's easier to work on those big O-scale cars.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

John,

FABULOUS job on those observation-dome people/seats. Really clever. (Yeah on the Chinese ebay people!) What was up there before ... just an empty zone/hole?

TJ


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## plandis (Oct 5, 2011)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> The LED strips I use are designed to run on 12 volts, they can be cut on ever three LED segment. If you look at the dome lighting, that's the smallest piece, one three LED unit. While you were ordering from Mouser, you should have ordered the CL-2 regulator, that's the one I use.  I use a full wave bridge rectifier, 47uF 100V cap, and the CL-2 regulator. If you're running conventional, I'd consider using a voltage doubler circuit, that will be two diodes and two electrolytic caps. These work good down to about 8-9 volts track voltage, and I could have cut that down another volt or two by shunting the resistors in each 3 LED group, but I didn't feel the need. With a voltage doubler in front of the CL2, it'll run down to as low as you can crank your conventional transformer.
> 
> You can use either the CL2N3-G for 20MA or the CL25N-G for 25MA.


NICE!!!
Thank you for the tips on the CC chips from Mouser. I was going to do it the "dirty" way -unregulated with ballast resistors. this is much better. didnt think about constant lighting level for some reason.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

tjcruiser said:


> John,
> 
> FABULOUS job on those observation-dome people/seats. Really clever. (Yeah on the Chinese ebay people!) What was up there before ... just an empty zone/hole?
> 
> TJ


I wanted seats, but being the impatient type, I didn't want to go searching for them, The wood seemed to be the right color, so I just fired up the router and made a long bench and chopped it up.  I'm glad I bought a bunch of the seated figures some time back, because they're almost not available anymore, and they're asking many times the old price! I bought 100 of them for $9 shipped once, try looking at the prices now! 

The dome was just an empty hole to the bottom of the car, I put in the floor so I'd have something to mount the lower level lights on, then figured I might as well go all the way and put in some people up top.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

plandis said:


> NICE!!!
> Thank you for the tips on the CC chips from Mouser. I was going to do it the "dirty" way -unregulated with ballast resistors. this is much better. didnt think about constant lighting level for some reason.


The resistor works fine, but I like a more constant light. The nice thing about the CL2 is you can just parallel them for more current, two of the 20MA ones gives you 40MA, no extra components. At 44 cents each, it's hard to go wrong.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Only if I can buy it with someone else's money!


That caboose would sure look nice on the back of your train.:thumbsup:


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

big ed said:


> That caboose would sure look nice on the back of your train.:thumbsup:


Let me know when I can expect it to be shipped to me.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I like it ! With fancy hardware too!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

T-Man said:


> I like it ! With fancy hardware too!


Which fancy hardware are we talking about?


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## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

Sweet stuff guys...:thumbsup:

I forgot that I had one piece of "O" to work on. My club has a two rail "O" layout so I want to repair/replace the rails on this and put zebra stripes on it...










It's an Atlas from the early 70s and it's a beast of a puller. Would like to build a very small layout for display purposes at shows...


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Shay, we'll get you converted to O-scale yet.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The mint car looks better with a load of gold.


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## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Shay, we'll get you converted to O-scale yet.


I would love to model O scale...dreamed of doing it most of my life. The heft, the realistic clicking at the rail joints...pure bliss.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, we won't stop you, jump into the pond! 

I like the heft and size, it's so much easier to work on. I'm actually pretty fascinated by N-scale layouts, but I can see how difficult it would be to work on them.


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