# Track Code.



## Bluwtr (Feb 28, 2021)

I was looking at new track as the EZ track isn't that great. What is code 55 and 70 mean? I've never seen this listed before.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

Code 55 track rail is .055" in height and code 70 is .070" in height.


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## Bluwtr (Feb 28, 2021)

Thanks. I'm new so sorry for the dumb questions, but I would assume the height is the actual height of the rail; is one a standard; and what's the advantage of one of the other?


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

The advantage is usually realism. I do not know which code is close to prototype for N scale which from the sizes you listed, I'm assuming you are working in N scale.

The disadvantage can be unreliability the smaller you use. The smaller it is the more exacting your skills at laying it must be.


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## Bluwtr (Feb 28, 2021)

Sorry, but yes, n-scale.

Thanks again for the fast answer and then information.


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

If you're interested in sectional track with integrated roadbed, I'd suggest you investigate Kato Unitrack.

Very nice, and they offer a better selection of components in N scale than they do in HO scale...


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## Bluwtr (Feb 28, 2021)

Thanks, I will check it out. I just happened to be looking on Micromark and was looking at their train stuff. I'd not seen the track code before.


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## Bluwtr (Feb 28, 2021)

Looking on Kato's site...they do not direct sell in the USA. My nearest shop that sells it is 3 hours away. Any other suggestions?


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## prrfan (Dec 19, 2014)

Almost all the various online hobby supply stores in the USA sell Kato track, which in N scale is Code 80. Not sure what you mean by ‘direct sell’.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

MB Klein (www.modeltrainstuff.com) sells Unitrack on both HO and N, as does Trainworld (www.trainworld.com), as does Walthers, for that matter (just to name a few). A lot of pieces appear to be out of stock at the moment, so you may need to order from several places. Or just allow it to be backordered and take it when it comes.


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## Bluwtr (Feb 28, 2021)

From their website you can not order from them. You have to go to a retailer. I would like to order from them as their prices are very good--$6 for a 808mm ( 33" I think) piece. That's a great price. I'll check online stores but I try to order direct when I can to avoid markups.


CTValleyRR said:


> MB Klein (www.modeltrainstuff.com) sells Unitrack on both HO and N, as does Trainworld (www.trainworld.com), as does Walthers, for that matter (just to name a few). A lot of pieces appear to be out of stock at the moment, so you may need to order from several places. Or just allow it to be backordered and take it when it comes.


Thanks. Like I said, we have the EZ track and it is not great. Our layout is only approximately 26' and I bought more track during the design phase because I didn't know better. Given that the Kato is much less expensive I'm considering doing a full replacement before we get too deep.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Kato Unitrack is cheaper than EZ Track? That's a first. Are you sure you're comparing apples and apples? Not (for example) comparing the price of 8 pieces of EZ Track to 4 Unitrack?

Both the stores I noted generally sell below MSRP. Most places that do sell direct sell for MSRP, because they do 't want to compete with their own dealers. The prices on the website may not mean much if supplies are low.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Just for kicks, I did a price comparison. On Bachmann's website, a #4 HO nickel silver turnout is $60, a 4 Pack of 18" radius curve is $18.50, as is a 4 pack of 9" straights. On the Kato Website, the 9-3/4 " straights are $17.50, curves (19-1/4") are $19, and the turnout is $40. To be fair, though, the EZ Track turnout includes a remote operator, whereas the Kato must be bought separately for $10. So at MSRP, Kato is slightly cheaper (surprising).

Model Train Stuff (MB Klein) sells Unitrack curves for $13.29, the straights for $12.99, and the turnout for $27.99. Similar discounts on the Bachmann. So you'd spend more if you bought direct.


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## Bluwtr (Feb 28, 2021)

Here is a screen shot from the Kato website. The 31 3/19" (808mm) N gauge flex is $6.










Like I said, I've not priced it at any other location yet, but heck, at $6 a pop that is an awesome price to me!


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## prrfan (Dec 19, 2014)

Bluwtr said:


> Here is a screen shot from the Kato website. The 31 3/19" (808mm) N gauge flex is $6.
> 
> View attachment 556519
> 
> ...


But in post #8 you said Kato doesn’t sell directly to consumers in the USA so...🤷‍♂️


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## Bluwtr (Feb 28, 2021)

They DON'T. It's says so on their site in plan English. They say you have to go through one of their retailers BUT they list the price on their site as I SHOW in the screenshot.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Well, since no one I can find, even on eBay, has Kato N-Scale flex track for sale, so that price is pretty meaningless. Manufacturers with out of stock or out of production items on their websites often have outdated pricing as well.

Model Train Stuff, however, has MicroEngineering N Scale flex track for $5.00 a strip; Peco for $4.80, Atlas for $3.50. MicroMark, not known for it's deep discounts, has ME Flex for $5.83, Trainworld has Peco for $4.80, Atlas for $3..50..... You get the idea. Not only is $6 on the high side of what you can get N scale flex track for, the RETAILERS out there are the cheaper options. Big retailers have buying power to get good wholesale rates, and they pass the savings on to their customers.


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## Bluwtr (Feb 28, 2021)

See, I found that too. I searched on many sites and couldn't find it. Since we are new to the hobby I have really no idea what "resonible" is on pricing. $5-6 for 30+ inches seems really good to me.

Unfortunately I jumped in and bought all of the track we need for our layout from Bachmann. I knew the name and thought them to be reputable. I'm now finding out that it seems their quality is not what it once was. Our layout is only 26' so it wouldn't be outrageous to purchase enough flexible track. I like the idea of the flex track for obvious reasons. In our test fit of the layout I found a lot of gaps and some shorts with the EZ. Is this common with track that has the tracked as part of it?

Can flex track be used entirely for a layout? Also, if the Kato isn't available what is a good, reliable 2nd option?


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## Steve Rothstein (Jan 1, 2021)

I use the Kato Unitrack right now and I am happy with it. I like the idea of flex track and will consider it more when I can finally get the Kato stuff. If it helps you, you can look at the bottom of the first page of their web site and it shows that the flex-track is still in the coming soon area. Since they have had the web page up for the 20th Century Limited train for several months and just shipped it recently, I do not know how long the "soon" will be until they actually ship the flex track. 

And since I don't trust my skill to build turnouts and Kato has not announced any in the flex-track line, I would have to use someone else's turnouts for my layout. If I do that, I can't see a reason not to stick with that manufacturer for the flex-track too.


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## prrfan (Dec 19, 2014)

I first got into Kato Unitrack about 6 years ago. (HO) There were supply problems even then. The two domestic sources I used were Horizon Hobby and Power Hobby. There were several pieces that were unavailable from them as well as the other sources I tried. CT Valley mentioned most of them.

I wound up finding these elusive sections in Japan, but not from Kato directly. They were a couple different EBay sellers. (New product, not used). IIRC the prices plus shipping were comparable to domestic stores, although shipping time was long.

And yes, you certainly can build a layout entirely of Flex Track. That’s what most of the folks on here will recommend, and they’re not wrong. I love Unitrack but for very specific purposes. Most of my layouts are temporary. I change the track work around every so often. For a permanent layout, ballasted flex is the way to go. 

I can’t imagine Kato flex will be significantly superior to any other brand of flex currently available. I definitely wouldn’t delay building a layout to wait for it. You can mix flex and Unitrack. Notice on the website that the transition piece is not a new item. It will transition to any code 80 N scale track, then you can transition down from there if you want. Specifics on all this can be found in numerous previous threads on the forum. 

Traction Fan is our resident N scale track and turnout guru. He has literally written chapters about the subject and they can be found on many of his posts. 
Happy Modeling. 
Dan


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## Bluwtr (Feb 28, 2021)

Thanks for the awesome info! I really appreciate it. I only asked about the Kato because it was mentioned. I obviously have no preference/experience since I'm new to the hobby. I'm completely open to any other brand of flex track. Our layout is going to be permanent with ballast but this one isn't going to have switches or turnouts so we're good there.

Thank you again!

Wes


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## scenicsRme (Aug 19, 2020)

No switches or turnouts in a 21' long layout? Is that what you really mean? IMHO, sure is going to be a boring layout in a big hurry watching a train just run from one end to the other, and trying to back up a train with more than 3-4 cars 21' is a sure recipe for derailments. Not my idea of fun with trains.
I think you are tying to fly before you have even grown feathers! I don't know who your friend is or his MRR experience, but he is giving you some strange advice. First note that the Kato flex track is NOT unitrack but just standard flex track that requires a separately laid foam or cork roadbed under it to bring it up to the height of unitrack which has a simulated roadbed already attached to the track. The advantage of unitrack is that it has a solid proprietary locking mechanism to join the sections which hold it in alignment and is less likely to develop electrical problems than *other brands of sectional track, *but for serious model railroading of a track plan that will not be regularly pulled up and rearranged, flex track has way more advantages over sectional track and is usually less expensive in the long run and will look much more realistic in appearance and operation. For N scale, you can't beat Peco brand flex track and turnouts for easy of use, reliability, appearance, and durability, altho you can find cheaper poorly made alternatives (_cough_: Atlas, Bachmann...) or more expensive (Kato) you'll never be sorry you chose Peco. It is the gold standard at nickle silver price.
I suggest you put your wallet away for a couple weeks and do some reading and/or watch videos on how to plan and build your first model railroad the right way.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I would say that mixing flex track with commercial turnouts and crossings is the most common way of building a larger layout, especially where the geometry can get a little tricky.

Flex track comes in two kinds: springy and stiff. Atlas, Peco, Walthers, and probably Kato are all good brands of the springy stuff. The stiff kind is made by MicroEngineering and Hornby. All are good brands. Many people like the springy kind, because it's easier to shape. I prefer the stiff because you don't have to worry about fixing it in place while your adhesive dries. It stays where you put it. Neither is inherently better.

I'm surprised you had such trouble with the EZ Track. Bachmann isn't top of the line, but they make serviceable products. The exception to this is their turnouts, which are junk, to be polite about it.


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## Bluwtr (Feb 28, 2021)

scenicsRme said:


> No switches or turnouts in a 21' long layout? Is that what you really mean? IMHO, sure is going to be a boring layout in a big hurry watching a train just run from one end to the other, and trying to back up a train with more than 3-4 cars 21' is a sure recipe for derailments. Not my idea of fun with trains.
> I think you are tying to fly before you have even grown feathers! I don't know who your friend is or his MRR experience, but he is giving you some strange advice. First note that the Kato flex track is NOT unitrack but just standard flex track that requires a separately laid foam or cork roadbed under it to bring it up to the height of unitrack which has a simulated roadbed already attached to the track. The advantage of unitrack is that it has a solid proprietary locking mechanism to join the sections which hold it in alignment and is less likely to develop electrical problems than *other brands of sectional track, *but for serious model railroading of a track plan that will not be regularly pulled up and rearranged, flex track has way more advantages over sectional track and is usually less expensive in the long run and will look much more realistic in appearance and operation. For N scale, you can't beat Peco brand flex track and turnouts for easy of use, reliability, appearance, and durability, altho you can find cheaper poorly made alternatives (_cough_: Atlas, Bachmann...) or more expensive (Kato) you'll never be sorry you chose Peco. It is the gold standard at nickle silver price.
> I suggest you put your wallet away for a couple weeks and do some reading and/or watch videos on how to plan and build your first model railroad the right way.


Well, yes it IS 26' without switches or turnouts. We are new to it and it may be boring to you but we are excited to get going. Also, we are space limited so we are on a (gasp!!!) 4x8 space. The track is a five turn with two bridges and changes in elevation.

A friend didn't offer up the Kato: it was just suggested by another member more as an example. I just commented about it because it is the one mentioned. I as said in an earlier post we actually have Bachmann EZ track and we have noticed that is is difficult to have smooth transitions and causes shorts. This is why I asked about the track.

If you've read my previous posts you can see that we've bought all of the track for our plan. I was just asking questions. I've been reading and planning since December and granted we are making mistakes and I do believe in learning from mistakes. I don't mind spending some extra money to fix them, but I also have to make decisions and move forward.




CTValleyRR said:


> I would say that mixing flex track with commercial turnouts and crossings is the most common way of building a larger layout, especially where the geometry can get a little tricky.
> 
> Flex track comes in two kinds: springy and stiff. Atlas, Peco, Walthers, and probably Kato are all good brands of the springy stuff. The stiff kind is made by MicroEngineering and Hornby. All are good brands. Many people like the springy kind, because it's easier to shape. I prefer the stiff because you don't have to worry about fixing it in place while your adhesive dries. It stays where you put it. Neither is inherently better.
> 
> I'm surprised you had such trouble with the EZ Track. Bachmann isn't top of the line, but they make serviceable products. The exception to this is their turnouts, which are junk, to be polite about it.



Yeah, I've been surprised with the Bachmann as well. I've always heard the name and figured it a good starter set. We've had a hard time making solid connections between sections and some of the joiners are almost impossible to line up and slide together. At first we like the attached "road bed" but the more I've looked at it the less I like it. We plan on ballasting it which is fine but will be kind of a pain given the plastic is tough to bond to.

Again, thanks for the advice.

Wes


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## prrfan (Dec 19, 2014)

Wes: Everyone has to start somewhere. There was a thread on here some months back asking about EZ Track. I tried to find it but good luck. There’s been over 400 threads on that topic. 
In that thread, some of the best modelers on here, guys with world class layouts, revealed that they started out with EZ Track. 

No, the product is not the best but it got you into the hobby. YOU and your friend will decide how you derive joy from it. That’s different for every modeler.
Where you go is entirely up to you. So go slowly, learn and have fun. That’s the most important part.


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## Bluwtr (Feb 28, 2021)

prrfan said:


> Wes: Everyone has to start somewhere. There was a thread on here some months back asking about EZ Track. I tried to find it but good luck. There’s been over 400 threads on that topic.
> In that thread, some of the best modelers on here, guys with world class layouts, revealed that they started out with EZ Track.
> 
> No, the product is not the best but it got you into the hobby. YOU and your friend will decide how you derive joy from it. That’s different for every modeler.
> Where you go is entirely up to you. So go slowly, learn and have fun. That’s the most important part.


Thanks. This is actually a project for me and my 12 y.o. son. He is really into electronics and this past Christmas he said he wanted an N-scale because more than anything he wanted to do the scenery etc. When he was young he really loved trains so I jumped at this opportunity for he and I to spend time together. I'm big into the outdoors (hunting, fishing, gardens etc) and he's not. In this day and age we all know it's getting harder and harder to relate to our kids and especially pull them away from video games etc.

It may become a true hobby for me but I'm most interested in spending time with him. So far I've had a lot of fun leaning about design (used SCARM) and scenery building. We both find it fascinating especially on the "micro" scale.

Thanks again!

Wes


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## Steve Rothstein (Jan 1, 2021)

Bluwtr said:


> Thanks. This is actually a project for me and my 12 y.o. son. He is really into electronics and this past Christmas he said he wanted an N-scale because more than anything he wanted to do the scenery etc. When he was young he really loved trains so I jumped at this opportunity for he and I to spend time together. I'm big into the outdoors (hunting, fishing, gardens etc) and he's not. In this day and age we all know it's getting harder and harder to relate to our kids and especially pull them away from video games etc.
> 
> It may become a true hobby for me but I'm most interested in spending time with him. So far I've had a lot of fun leaning about design (used SCARM) and scenery building. We both find it fascinating especially on the "micro" scale.


This is the way to do it. I like when it becomes a family hobby. I started in modeling because my son wanted a new hobby and we have worked out a good partnership. I do the track engineering (my background is more computer and science related) and he does the scenery (his background includes an A.A. in art). I only started in December, and my son is slightly older than yours (he has a 12 year old daughter who likes playing with the trains but not working on them). And of course, the things I have tried in scenery have slowed us down and caused more problem.


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## scenicsRme (Aug 19, 2020)

@Bluwtr: I think I misread what you meant. Sorry I pictured a very long narrow shelf along a wall 21' long with one track from one end to the other (I have seen an N scale track plan on an 8' long 2x6!), not 21' of track pretzeling around a 4x8' table which is what I now read, is that correct? AFA the Bachmann track did you buy it new or used? If new Joiners should be quite tight, lay the sections flat on a solid surface and push them together without lifting them for best results. Make sure the rails aren't being pushed down the ties while doing so. When the sections lock there should not be enough space between the rails to insert a business card. With a DCC system 21' of track needs a main buss (2 loosely twisted solid or stranded 12 or 14ga wire that follows the main route under the layout. DO NOT connect the ends of the buss wire back to itself or in a loop. Connect your control station to this buss at one end or in a Y arrangement somewhere in the middle that is convenient. Connect the end(s) of the buss to a track feeder pair or just insulate the ends so they can't accidentally short out. It is good practice for solid operation to solder two 20 or 22 ga solid wire drops to the outside web of the track every 3 ft or so and drop thru a hole drilled between the ties to pass the wire down to the underside of the layout. weathering the webs and ballasting the track will hide the wires, just be sure no solder is on top the rails. DO NOT use the joiners with drops attached! The drop should be kept as short as practical and connected to the buss using soldering, or suitcase connectors. There is a new to me at least, connector that I will be using instead of suitcase connectors from now on. One major advantage of flex track is the elimination of a large number of connections with the possibilities of electrical issues. Just be sure to keep the same rail connected to the same polarity buss wire.


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## scenicsRme (Aug 19, 2020)

MichaelE said:


> The advantage is usually realism. I do not know which code is close to prototype for N scale which from the sizes you listed, I'm assuming you are working in N scale.
> 
> The disadvantage can be unreliability the smaller you use. The smaller it is the more exacting your skills at laying it must be.


Actual RR rail would be about code 45 in N scale, but the wheel flange height would be too little to keep our much lighter than scale weight trains on the track, so code 55 is as close to scale as practical and minimum height for NMRA spec wheel flanges. A lot of older rolling stock have larger yet flanges (often called pizza cutters) that will hit the ties or spike detail on code 55. If you are planning on running pre 1990's manufactured locomotives and rolling stock you will be smart to use code 80 rail, the difference in height is hardly noticeable to anyone other than the most critical eye once the rail is weathered and ballasted.


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