# soldering gun help



## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

From time to time I use a










I like it because it has the power to heat larger items and it heats up quickly. I also like it because, that's the way I've always soldered. I did buy a pencil iron recently. I like it too for smaller joints.

However, it developes corrosion where the tip and iron meet. If I'm working, I can loosen the nuts and tighten them a few times. This works until I'm finished and can get the wire brush out.



How do you prevent corrosion?


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

Dave, are you using acid-core or resin-core solder? Resin-core is appropriate for electronics, where acid-core is for plumbing: it's fumes can cause corrosion to the irons.


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

I've used acid flux and solid solder for years. I recently purchased some rosin flux at Radio Shack.

I've know about the difference and reasons for using each, I just used acid flux.

I know you are supposed to apply heat, then the solder with flux core. I flux the piece, put a little solder on the iron and then touch the iron to the piece. It is very fast.

The rosin flux does not eat at the tips as much.

The pencil iron doesn't seem to corrode at all. (By corrode, I mean the copper turns dark and heat doesn't transfer.)


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## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

I have my own "In house" Solder Technician! Well sometimes.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I use a pencil iron. My copper (bronze?) tips turn dark with a flaky buildup. I clean it off with a Dremel wire brush reasonably frequently ... the tips shine up nicely. That said, I don't know of a way to prevent the flaky buildup.

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

To get the most from a pencil iron, I use a flat file to make my point.
You need the gun for old lead solder. Some of those connections need a torch practically.The modern stuff melts like butter, mmm good.
I am getting into the practice to wrap wires three times around before splicing a conection. It helps.

That has to be a posed picture. No smoke. My fingers would burn holding a wire that close to the iron.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Dave,
What your talking about is called "seasoning" an iron or tip. The newer tips are pre seasoned to keep them from corroding or oxidizing. There is no real sure fired cure all but this should slow it down.
Gun models,
A little white lithium grease or No-Lox around the connections will aid in cutting down on oxidation and corrosion.
Pencil Iron models, 
With a cool soldering iron remove all oxidation from the tip of the soldering iron. Wrap the entire tip of the iron in a layer of solder, Preferably rosin core silver bearing solder, Let iron come up in heat till solder melts around and onto tip. During soldering operations you need to clean your iron off with a damp sponge between operations and re-tin(melt a little solder back onto the tip).


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

NIMT.COM said:


> Wrap the entire tip of the iron in a layer of solder, Preferably rosin core silver bearing solder, Let iron come up in heat till solder melts around and onto tip.


Good tip ... I'm gonna try that !!!

Thanks,

TJ


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Oh and CP I want your "In house Solder Tech" to come work on my RR!
Sound alot better than me doing it!


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

NIMT.COM said:


> Dave,
> What your talking about is called "seasoning" an iron or tip. The newer tips are pre seasoned to keep them from corroding or oxidizing. There is no real sure fired cure all but this should slow it down.
> Gun models,
> A little white lithium grease or No-Lox around the connections will aid in cutting down on oxidation and corrosion.
> ...


Thanks

I'm famaliar with tinning the tip. I've done a lot of stained glass work.

As far as keepin the tip clean, it helps to clean the piece to be soldered. Any dirt that is removed by the flux, will end up on the tip.


It is the connection between the copper tip and the nuts that hold the tip to the iron that I have the problem. Won't grease melt or burn?


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## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

NIMT.COM said:


> Oh and CP I want your "In house Solder Tech" to come work on my RR!
> Sound alot better than me doing it!



:laugh::laugh: I think she needs to attend one of your track Soldering Seminars! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

I may have answered my own question, partly with info from here.

The equipment I have been using was purchased 25-30 years ago.

I purchased a 30w pencil at the Shack recently and some of their flux.

But I was using the solder from 25-30 years ago. Some of it was 50/50.

I now have some 63/37 rosin core solder.

Amazing how the proper tools make a job easier.

As for the corrosion. I think the amount of flux I was adding to the connections was the problem. In one case, while under my 24" high table, I saw the flux run down the tip of my gun.

Problem solved.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

I read back threw this thread and none of us said anything. Duhh and Sorry.
Newer solder blends join at a cooler temperature range. Rosin core solder is far better for track and wire work and the residue it leaves will not damage anything and is easily cleaned up with alcohol, thinners, or goo gone.
There is one another solder that works very well on fine projects is 62/36/2. 62 tin, 36 lead, and 2 silver.
It flows and bonds a little quicker than 60/40 or 63/37.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

With the price of silver, that stuff costs more.


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