# Metal wheels



## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

OK, I finally did it! I bought a bulk bag of Exactrail #204 33" metal wheels recently and just finished installing them on 26 freight cars that formerly were riding on plastic.
What a difference!!!!!  :thumbsup:
They roll REAL EASY and I love the new sound too. I noticed I don't have to give my transformer as much juice 'cause the train runs faster than ever at the same setting.
Thanks for convincing me to do it. Well worth the money! 
Bob


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## Bman (Aug 24, 2010)

:thumbsup::thumbsup: Yes metal wheels are great!!


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

Only issue that I have is it pushes my locomotive to fast down steep grades now that I switched.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Yes, But you can pull them up the other side twice as easy too!
Great job on the conversions Bob!:thumbsup:
Now kadee couplers too?


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Could you tell us where you bought the wheels in bulk and how much they went for? I need to do the same thing as all my cars have junky plastic wheels and some of them won't even turn cause they are bent. Pete


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

Hi Pete,
I bought my metal wheels on eBay.
Right now there are several offers for the Exactrail EW-204 33" wheels in bulk (100) packages.
I paid $60 + shipping, but sometimes you can score a little better deal.
They work really GREAT!
This is MUCH cheaper than the 12 packs at the LHS.
It took about 60 to 90 seconds per car to change them over from plastic and it was my first dance with this particular project.
Go for it!!
Bob


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Thanks for that raleets but you made me think of another question. Your pretty specific about the kind of wheels you bought so I'll ask,is there any kind of wheel NOT to buy?
Pete


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

Pete,
I'm far from being an expert, having only been messin' with model trains since January of this year.
The exact wheel specifications were supplied to me by MINT (Sean), who I have great respect for in this hobby. 
All I can say is that's what I ordered and they work absolutely GREAT on a mixed bag of frieght cars that are on my layout, most of which are NOT top shelf. In fact, most are el cheapos that I bought on eBay as a raw rookie.
Those little buggers now whiz around the track like young puppies!! :laugh:
Bob


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Not the plastic ones!:laugh::laugh::laugh:
Exact rail, Proto 2000, Kadee, Accurail
All make good wheel sets, keep in mind the size, most common are 33"
But the wheel sets do come in 28" and 36" too.


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

I'm in the same boat with old type cars and el cheapo's too and from back in 1978 or so. You mention wheel size and I'm wondering if that would have anything to do with the wheels climbing the rails on my #4 turnouts? I seem to have a lot of that going on and can't see anything wrong with the turnout itself. Do you think a larger wheel would do better going through the turnout? I don't know what size I have now but I do know they really rot. Pete


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

Pete,
The reason MINT suggested #EW-204 is because they are a tad "fatter" and more of the wheel surface is actually on the track. According to Sean this helps prevent derailments. 
I've run mine thru several Bachmann EZ track #5 turnouts and they perform just fine.
Bob


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You mean NIMT? Who is MINT?


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

OK, OK it's still early on Monday morning and I haven't had a cup of coffee yet, so cut me some slack 
Yes, it's that old geezer, NIMT 
Bob


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

raleets said:


> Pete,
> The reason MINT suggested #EW-204 is because they are a tad "fatter" and more of the wheel surface is actually on the track. According to Sean this helps prevent derailments.
> I've run mine thru several Bachmann EZ track #5 turnouts and they perform just fine.
> Bob


Makes sense to me. I'll look for that designation on sleazebay.

MINT sounds better to me. It's hard to say NIMT. Gets my tang all tungled.
Thanks for the help. Pete


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

Pete,
Just type "Exactrail EW-204" in the eBay search. That should do the trick.
And, in case you didn't know, "NIMT" stands for Northern Idaho Model Trains.
Good luck,
Bob


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

An added benefit of the metal wheels is that your track stays cleaner than with plastic wheels.


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

Scott,
If that's the case, I should have about the cleanest tracks around since I just took delivery of a brand new CMX track cleaning car. :thumbsup:
Can't wait to give it a spin around the layout later today.
Bob


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Good deal...I need to get my Atlas cleaning car fixed. I used it twice and now it doesn't work at all (stupid thing was $100) but it both polishes the rails as well as vacuuming up any particles. I could use it right now being that my kids are running trains through the construction yard


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

raleets said:


> Scott,
> If that's the case, I should have about the cleanest tracks around since I just took delivery of a brand new CMX track cleaning car. :thumbsup:
> Can't wait to give it a spin around the layout later today.
> Bob


Be careful with the CMX car. I watched a video on youtube about it. Depending on what you use for cleaning fluid (acetone or lacquer thinner) it will dissolve plastic ties. I saw the video and bought some lacquer thinner to clean my tracks by hand. As I wiped the track some of my cloth hit the ties between the rails and black plastic from the ties was on my rag. The effect was even worse over my rerailers. I'm not saying it's a bad product (in fact I think it looks very well built and should do a nice job) just be careful. I would not leave it on the tracks in a stationary position and I would be sure to adjust the control valve carefully.
-Art


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

Art,
You're one of several who have warned me about using laquer thinner in the CMX car. :thumbsup: To be honest, I make it a practice of only using that stuff as a last resort because it can raise havoc in a New York second.
NIMT strongly suggests using denatured alcohol, which he says does a great job and won't melt plastic or paint. Way cheaper too! 
So, I intend to mix a toddy, follow the directions to the letter, and let 'er rip a little bit later. Clean track is in my future 
Bob


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Art,
The best, safest, and cheapest stuff to use is Denatured alcohol!
Real alcohol is fine too, but a little spendy! Besides that the car doesn't travel far before you want to take a hit off of it! Mobile flask! 
Denatured alcohol won't hurt the plastic ties or rerailiers either. 
Have one for me too Bob!


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Bob,
let me know how it works for you. I have been looking into a track cleaner for some time. I am working on an overhead shelf layout so a track cleaning car would make life simpler. The CMX looks to me like the best choice. The Atlas one has a vacuum but I just use a dust buster for that.
-Art


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

One issue with alcohol is that a spark and you have some hot times on the old R-R!  I believe that's why they make the non-flammable cleaning fluids.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

I do want to say that the lacquer thinner did a great job cleaning the track. I will use it sparingly and use alcohol most of the time. 
-Art


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I have no problem cleaning track with alcohol with the power off, it's just using it in a track cleaning car that bothers me.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

That's why you use denatured alcohol!
(Off the can) "Denatured alcohol produces a hot, clean, oderless and smokeless flame" 
That way you can't see it burning when it happens!:laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I rest my case.


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

grjohn & others,
I just got in from the back garage and am happy to report the denatured alcohol I used in my new CMX track cleaning car did NOT explode, catch fire, melt plastic, ruin paint, or asfixiate yours truly. However, it DID an excellent job of cleaning about 80' of HO Bachmann EZ track!
I love it when a tool does what it's advertised to do and performs as the seller says it will. :thumbsup: The CMX track cleaning car is extremely user friendly, non-technical, and virtually ready to run right out of the box!
In less than an hour I had prepped the unit, easily set it up to run, and cleaned three seperate loops of HO track while doing little more than sitting on my keaster with a cool beverage.
The seller provided a roll of cleaning pad material, which I easily cut with cheap scissors to size and installed without duress.
I ran 10 laps around the loop, took the car off the track and turned it around, then ran another 10 laps. The BLACK tracks on the pad were HEAVY, but the track was white-glove clean!! (No, I didn't use a white glove, but I used a white paper towel and it came away still white) :thumbsup:
Guys, I'm certainly NOT getting paid to endorse this product. I paid $125 for it 'cause there don't seem to be any "deals" out there. The reason I wanted a great track cleaning car is because I'm in the process of enlarging my layout and there will be several places beyond the holy "3 foot rule" that I won't be able to reach with a Bright Boy. This little gem is my salvation and it's highly recommended!
Best,
Bob


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

I run one on my layouts, for several years with no complaints or fires.  :thumbsup:


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

It only takes one.


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

Hey, John,
For a guy who's played around with antique guns a bunch of years, aren't you getting just a tad conservitive? 
Only checkin',
Bob


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Oh, I use alcohol, just sayin'


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

Metal wheels are great. Even greater after the trucks have been tuned. 

Routerman


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

jz,
Oh, yeah, I did that too with one of those MicroMark truck tuner thingamabobbers. 
I can't believe the difference in performance just from ditching the plastic wheels.
Last night I cleaned my tracks with the new CMX car and the trains roll like a dream.
Good stuff! :thumbsup:
Bob


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

raleets said:


> jz,
> Oh, yeah, I did that too with one of those MicroMark truck tuner thingamabobbers.
> I can't believe the difference in performance just from ditching the plastic wheels.
> Last night I cleaned my tracks with the new CMX car and the trains roll like a dream.
> ...


Ya, there really is quite a difference. I've got two cars though where it worked a little two well. It seems that whenever I'm switching and after I disconnect either of these two and push them with their couplers offset along the track to spot them, they roll away. Since my layout is now comprised of four seperate tables all joined together, I could try to raise some of the legs slightly to better level it, but that would be a lot of work.  

The original table is 4x8. I've since added three extentions to it. One extention is 3x4, one is 2x6 and one is 1x5. The entire shape is like a "U" with one point longer than the other with an extention going a little past the other. 

So instead, on both of these cars I've replaced one axle on each of them with plastic Athearn wheels. this has created a very slight drag thus eliminating the "roll away" problem. I kept all the axles w/plastic wheels that originally came with my Athearn and Roundhouse cars. I guess I could have just maybe used different trucks (that weren't tuned) and ran all metal wheels, but all of my trucks have been tuned. 

The rest of my cars are fine with their metal wheels. I guess I tuned the trucks of the two mentioned cars a little too well. Anyway, the problem has been eliminated and they run no worse for it. Only now, they do it without rolling away. 

Routerman


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

I'm in the process of expanding my 4X8 into a 10X10. 
Rather than building "around" the original 4X8, I'm constructing a whole new 
10X10 platform. This weekend I'll be transferring the orignial 4X8 layout on it's 1" foamboard over to the awaiting new platform. Once settled into place I'll finish the construction of the "surround" part which will eventually end up being 10X10.
The original 4X8 never was perfectly level, but the cars with plastic wheels stayed put. Now that I've tuned the trucks and replaced all the plastic with metal I also get some "free rolling" on certain parts of the layout. That was my first big clue that the metal wheels were FAR superior in performance!
Yep, with metal wheels you can leave the level on the pegboard.
Bob


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Get some nut-serts and insert them into the bottoms of your legs. A bolt then screws into the nut-sert and viola....adjustable leveling legs.


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

I have converted my cars that run on the main line most often to metal. Unfortunetly I do not have the funds to convert them all. Each time I have cash in the budget I enter the LHS only to have a new kit call out to me, thus adding to the conversion list.


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

tk,
The Exactrail bulk bag of 100 wheel sets nipped me for $70, in the mailbox, and it took care of all my rolling stock that had plastic wheels. I now have a small cannister full of plastic wheel sets.
Anyone in need? They're yours for the postage!
Bob


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

raleets said:


> tk,
> I now have a small cannister full of plastic wheel sets.
> Anyone in need? They're yours for the postage!
> Bob


Sounds like excellent scrap pile/spare wheel-sets sitting on a siding outside the engine shop material to me.....


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

See? Now THAT'S why you're an engineer and I'm just a lowly conductor hwell:
That great idea never entered my pea-sized mind ......now you're gonna' make me buy another little building for my layout 
Bob


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Throw the plastic wheels out before they have a chance to multiply. Ha! Pete


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

Pete,
As I was trading out the plastic wheels for the metal wheels and tossin' into the little container I actually asked myself "Why am I saving these dumb things?"
Caramba! I, like many on this forum, grew up in an era where we NEVER tossed ANYTHING out to the curb. That's why my house is overloaded with "things" I'll never use again!! 
But, anywho, I still like the idea of making a RR junk pile out of old wheel sets in the yard. Hadn't really planned a "yard", but guess I'll give it a shot now!
LOVE this forum,
Bob


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

I have used the spare wheels for loads in gons. They go well with my crane and crane tender in a breakdown train.


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

Another great idea........see, I told you guys I was a rookie! 
Bob


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

sstlaure said:


> Get some nut-serts and insert them into the bottoms of your legs. A bolt then screws into the nut-sert and viola....adjustable leveling legs.


Yeh, but now with the tables already made, the track already layed and tuned, it would be a lot of extra work. I'm happy with the way I did it.



sstlaure said:


> Sounds like excellent scrap pile/spare wheel-sets sitting on a siding outside the engine shop material to me.....


I have a nice back shop that I've also made into a engine/car shop and machine shop and I'm planning on placing some of these old wheels/axles around it. Of course, before I do, I'll paint the wheels silver with maybe a little bit of rust color on parts of them as well. The good plastic wheels I'll keep for a rainy day because who knows, someday I may need them. But the junky ones I'll use to decorate like you said. Great idea! :thumbsup:



tkruger said:


> I have used the spare wheels for loads in gons. They go well with my crane and crane tender in a breakdown train.


I also have a junk yard with a couple of cranes (one on tracks, and one on rails). I thought about doing what you mentioned. Great idea.  Along with the wheels in the cars, maybe I should place some of them laying around on the ground here and there along with some other junk as well. I've been wanting to order a chain linc fence to go around it along with a couple of access gates. I've also got to find maybe some kind of little office to go in it with maybe some workers along with maybe even a few weeds growing along the fence too. LOL Hmmmmmmm.

Routerman


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

I started to buy the same wheels but decided not to spend the money right now as other things are more important like food. Ha! 
So did you use these wheels on any cars and how did they work out? I think that some side to side movement is ok but not a lot. How much play did you have with these wheels? Pete


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## Gansett (Apr 8, 2011)

It appears there's different axle lengths availible for the various manufactures.
Check out "axle length" specs.

http://www.reboxx.com/wheelsets.htm


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## Gansett (Apr 8, 2011)

Of course I can't find it now that I'd like too but I did see a sellor on ebay selling 100 piece bulk wheel set packages with the axle lengths noted on the package. I'll try to find them again. 

As for your 40 mile round trip, I now live in a city. Before it was a 34 mile round trip to buy milk but it was sooo quiet. Not quiet here but I do get Chinese food delivered!!:thumbsup:


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## waltr (Aug 15, 2011)

JackC said:


> It appears there's different axle lengths availible for the various manufactures.
> Check out "axle length" specs.
> 
> http://www.reboxx.com/wheelsets.htm


Yep, there are some different length axles. Here is another link to info on wheel set options.
http://www.nwsl.com/wheelsets/ho-and-p87 nickel-silver wheelsets

I have the "Reboxx Exxact Socket tool" (see reboxx link) and it has made a really difference with most trucks regardless of which wheels are installed. It removes any burrs and un-even surfaces inside the truck's axle socket.

Here are the NMRA Recommended Practices (RPs) for wheels:
http://www.nmra.org/standards/sandrp/rp-24.html
http://www.nmra.org/standards/sandrp/rp-24_1.html
http://www.nmra.org/standards/sandrp/rp-24_3.html


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

Pete,
I bought a bulk pack of Exactrail #EW-204 33" metal wheels on eBay for $59.95 + shipping.
My entire collection of rolling freight cars (about 35) are all el cheapos of various makes and all had plastic wheels.
I replaced all of them without breaking a sweat in less than two hours.
They now all work flawlessly and roll like a dream.
Case closed.
Bob


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

Pete,
Exactrail has a web site and you can buy those wheels direct from them at that same price, or very little more.
I'm totally happy with them. The difference is like night and day!
Bob


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I bought 100 bulk of metal wheels couple of months ago.
i never thought about axle length. I guess I got lucky, these
seem to work well. I did alot of google searching on metal
wheel reviews and decided on Intermountain wheels. So far
I like them. I would think atlas, proto, kadees, are all good
metal wheels. I paid about the same for mine. $60.00 shipped.
I hope to upgrade all plastic wheels with metal as soon as I can. 
I got mine from this place http://www.ezbizwebsite.com/index.htm


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

FYI...If you order $150 or more from Walthers, shipping is free.


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

Pete V.
I'm several decades removed from the "14 year old" base point and realizing lots of frustration in my layout.........HOWEVER.....lots and lots more FUN :thumbsup:
Bob


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

I only have a couple of Atlas cars, most are Athearn and Roundhouse. With other Atlas cars in the past, I had run into the axle length problem as has been previously described in parts of this thread. So to counter this from happening again with these two cars, I decided to take a little different approach to the matter. Rather then just replacing their wheels with metal ones, I bought Atlas trucks with the metal wheels already in them. It cost a little more doing it this way, but there wasn't any "axle length" surprizes to deal with later where there might've been if I had just purchased the wheels themselves. Also, since the wheels rolled very well, tuning the trucks wasn't really necessary.

For the rest of the cars (Athearn, Roundhouse and a few Bachmann) I bought Proto wheels in both 33" and 36" sizes because I knew that I'd need both sizes. When it came time to change them, I did it accordingly after giving their trucks a good tuning. With the cabooses, I not only changed their wheels over to metal ones and tuned their trucks, in a couple of them I had to also add another metal weight as well. Now all of the cars (including the cabooses) run great anywhere on the layout in any direction at any speed through switches or wherever regardless whether they're being pulled or pushed. 

Most of the couplers are Kadee #5s. A few are Bachmann EZ Mates. Whenever the Bachmanns finally give it up, I'll change them over to Kadees as well. But as long as the Bachmanns give good service, I'll keep using them. I changed out all of the McHenry couples that came with my Atearn RTRs mainly because I just never really like them. My three Atlas engines came equipt with Accumates, two sets of which have been giving great service for the past twelve years. Now THAT IS QUALITY!!! LOL!! :laugh:

Routerman


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

Hell I have been trying to convert all my stuff over to metal wheels as well and it is a slow and slower process here. I keep the plastic ones on until I start getting issues with the car then the car gets upgraded and re checked for specs.

Massey


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Could one of you here list the companies that sell metal wheels that are good ones to buy? I'd like to do a search of these companies to see what the prices are for each on new metal wheels. pete


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

The last time I decided to "upgrade" my trucks and wheels I bought a huge supply of the Athearn roller bearing trucks with the bearing ends that roll. Well what I didnt know was the wheels are scale wheels and not RP25 wheels. This is fine and dandy until the car rolls over a prefab Peco or Atlas switch and falls in and derails. The wheels are at NMRA gauge specs but they are too narrow and wont take the turnouts. Boy do they look good rolling down the tracks tho with the bearings moving as well. 

The moral of this story is make sure the wheels are RP25 spec if you dont have precision hand laid turnouts.

Massey


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## Jayr (Sep 28, 2011)

Can you say where you got em ? Im looking to change out moy rolling stocks wheels and cuplers


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## tmiller (Jan 15, 2011)

norgale, I was having the same problem until I changed over to NEW metal wheels. My cars were climbing the turnouts as well. A lot of my rolling stock is vintage 1970-1980's like yours, and did have old metal wheels. If you use the NMRA gauge to check the width of the wheel, you will find them a little narrower than the standard. And I do mean a little! And, I am told that the flange is a little bigger with the new wheels. Apparently that was okay years ago, but not so with the new track of the modern area. So I bought some 33" wheels and WOW the difference. That took care of my derailment problems in the turnouts, although I did have to tweak the moveable rail by filing it to a nice sharp edge so it would lay against the outside rail very tight.

I am learning so much being new to this wonderful hobby.

Ted


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

I'm trying to make a "wheels and trucks" list and I'm having one bad time figuring out what wheels and trucks are metal and which may be plastic. It just doesn't always tell you in the manufacturers website so how do you know what the heck your ordering? Is there some rule of thumb here or a common practice that I havn't heard about? 
Accurail tells exactly what your buying and Atlas says nothing about what the stuff is made of. KD says you get smooth or ribbed wheels with their "metal" trucks but are the wheels metal or not? How do you figure this stuff out? Then I look at other sites and don't know if you get wheels with the truck or not. This business sure needs a lot of standardizing. Pete


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

norgale said:


> I'm trying to make a "wheels and trucks" list and I'm having one bad time figuring out what wheels and trucks are metal and which may be plastic. It just doesn't always tell you in the manufacturers website so how do you know what the heck your ordering? Is there some rule of thumb here or a common practice that I havn't heard about?
> Accurail tells exactly what your buying and Atlas says nothing about what the stuff is made of. KD says you get smooth or ribbed wheels with their "metal" trucks but are the wheels metal or not? How do you figure this stuff out? Then I look at other sites and don't know if you get wheels with the truck or not. This business sure needs a lot of standardizing. Pete


I have an additional gripe Pete. The manufacturers do not tell you if the axles are metal and if one side is insulated. This is essential if you need to pick up track power for lighting etc.... Most manufaturers rarely disclose this info.
-Art


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## gc53dfgc (Apr 13, 2010)

Art,

All rolling stock does not have insulated wheels. I have yet to find a non lighted car that has pre insulated wheels because that costs a good bit more.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Gc,
I think your mistaken, all wheel sets are insulated one way or another, otherwise you would have a rail to rail short!
Plastic wheels, plastic axles
Plastic wheels, metal axles
Metal wheels, plastic axles
Metal wheels, metal axles with insulator in the middle
Metal wheels, metal axles with one wheel insulated
Metal wheels, metal axles with both wheels insulated
Metal wheels, metal axles with both wheels connected together with resistors for transponding! (feed back to tell the system if there is any vehicles or rolling stock in a block)


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## gc53dfgc (Apr 13, 2010)

NIMT said:


> Gc,
> I think your mistaken, all wheel sets are insulated one way or another, otherwise you would have a rail to rail short!
> Plastic wheels, plastic axles
> Plastic wheels, metal axles
> ...


I wonder which ones I have then as they are all metal and I can find no trace of an insolation but it does make sense otherwise it would short so now I just have to figure out what they are.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

gc53dfgc said:


> I wonder which ones I have then as they are all metal and I can find no trace of an insolation but it does make sense otherwise it would short so now I just have to figure out what they are.


It's probably a very thin plastic bushing at the axle connection to the wheel.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

gc53dfgc said:


> Art,
> 
> All rolling stock does not have insulated wheels. I have yet to find a non lighted car that has pre insulated wheels because that costs a good bit more.


I gotta agree with Sean on this one. Yes they are all insulated or they would create a short but some are insulated with plastic axles which are of no use when trying to pick up track power. All I am saying is I wish manufacturers would clearly state what it is they are selling. Plastic means plastic. Plastic axles will roll pretty nice with metal wheels but won't help picking up track power. Metal axles will cost a bit more but will offer the best characteristics of all of them.
-Art


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

I would say that alll metal wheel sets would have to be insulated so that they won't short out like NIMT says. Looks like I have my work cut out for me if I'm to offer wheels and trucks and couplers for sale. Sure are a lot of different kinds of wheels alone never mind the rest. Unfortunatly I don't have Reboxx available to me but I will check out the Accurail, Atlas,Bachman, BLMA, Bowser,Fox Valley,Kadee, Keystone and Lionel. These are available to me with no problem. Seems like one of them should be of good enough quality to keep my cars on the track.
By the way there is a great article in the November issue of Model Railroader about making your own turnouts. Better quality turnouts would help the derail problem a lot too. Pete


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

I sent an email to kadee earlier this afternoon and just got an answer. Kadee's standard wheel set is a metal wheel with a plastic axle. So i'm going to invite the guy that replied to my email to read this thread and give us his comments on it. maybe he can help clear up this confusion. pete


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## glgraphix (Dec 21, 2008)

I have a little over 240 pieces of rolling stock now, which ALL have the Proto2000 Ribbed Back Wheelsets on them. They are IMO the best ones for the cost, unless you need lighting or whatnot.... in that case I use the INTERMOUNTAIN ones.

Here is where I get ALL my wheelsets.... nice prices, FAST shipping, one of the best I have ever dealt with... If you guys dont buy him out, lol, Im going to buy some more soon.

http://www.yankeedabbler.com/

Kevin


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## waltr (Aug 15, 2011)

And if the different materials the trucks and wheels sets are made from does not cause enough confusion then trying to get the correct truck design for the correct prototype era will be. There are (but not limited to):
Arch Bar - various designs
Bettendorf
AAR 50 ton
AAR 70 ton
Andrews
and many more.

Here are links to other sources of trucks and wheels:
http://www.nwsl.com/wheelsets
Good descriptions and any configuration. Worthwhile visit just for the reading.

http://www.bittercreekmodels.com/TRUCKS.html
Lots of the early truck designs.

http://psc1.virtualfocus.com/
High end Brass trucks and wheels sets.

http://www.troutcreekeng.com/tcho.html
Short descriptions and no pictures.


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

waltr said:


> And if the different materials the trucks and wheels sets are made from does not cause enough confusion then trying to get the correct truck design for the correct prototype era will be. There are (but not limited to):
> Arch Bar - various designs
> Bettendorf
> AAR 50 ton
> ...


I read in the first link here that the width of the wheel sets has to do with where they are made in some case. Atlas for one has the problem of too small wheel because they are made in India. Does that sound right? Pretty sure that's what it said.


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Since I'm having some problems with my triple axle engines running on some of my track which is less than 18" radius,would it be ok to grind off the flange of the middle wheels so they would just slide side to side over the smaller radius and not derail? MMMMMMM. Pete


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

Yes that would work just fine pete. 

BTW is the engine you are having problems with an Athearn by chance? If so try moving the sideframes out a little to allow the engine's wheels to slide in and out more. I had an engine do this over and over until I freed up the sideframes. All wheels were in spec with my NMRA gauge. 

Massey


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

For some reason I woke up out of a sound sleep this morning thinking about this. My two axle engines run my track and switches with no problem. However the three axle units and passenger cars always want to climb the points and derail on the tight inside curves on the layout. That sounds like a good idea Massey. I'll mess around with the engines this weekend when I'm at the layout. Thanks for the tip. pete


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

I personally don't think that grinding off the flanges is going to do what you want! I bet your trucks are just not turning tight enough to make the 18 in turn.
Draw a 18 radius ark on a piece of paper set your engine or car on the paper and see if the trucks on both ends will turn easy and match up with the 18 in ark. then while the trucks are turned slightly pick up the engine or car and check for up and down, floating movement!
Last resort should be to alter the wheels to make it work!


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## gc53dfgc (Apr 13, 2010)

Not to mention that messing with the wheels like grinding them down will destroy its value over the exact smae model with non messed with wheels if you ever go to sell it. i know I would not really want to buy an engine that had those modifications done to it as i would have no clue how well they did and it would also loose some important characteristics like electrical pickup and pulling power.


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## BMK (Sep 13, 2011)

I had the same issue with my GE C44-9W engines. I found it only happened when I went around one of the 18” curves. I placed small shims under the outside edge. It solved the problem of derailing and could run at higher speeds.


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

Pete V you would be suprised to see how well the engine will handle 18" curves if the wheels can move back and forth properly. I have mainly 18" radii on my layout and I can run any of my 6 axle engines on it. Yea I know it does not look the best but it does work and the engines do not stress. My engines are Atlas, Athearn, P2k, BLI and Kato. All run the rails just fine with no derailments. 2 reasons for this are good track laying and properly set up engines.

Massey


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

I have 2 Athearn BB SD40-2s and they are both the newer ones with the plastic handrailings. One has the NWSL wheels on it and the other the factory wheels. The only main difference is the NWSL wheels have a nicer finish and seem to transmit the power from the rails better. They are also more tollerant of dirty track. Both locos handle the rough track and turns the same.

Massey


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