# N Scale Door layout



## lstmysock112

Hi


Looking to find some plans and more information to build a Door type layout. Max size is about 36inches by 8 foot and would love to have a turntable and more then one track line. So the possibility of running more then one train at a time. Just not sure how to translate some of the plans I have seen online to get what I need and not break the bank. Is something like this possible with Kato. I see they have starter packs but not sure if they have turntables. Also looked at Peco but they do not seem to have track packages or starter packs.


Andrew


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## CTValleyRR

Welcome to the hobby and the forums. It sounds like you're a real beginner, which is fine, but your post basically covers the entire scope of the hobby. Spend some time reading on the boards here (we have a beginners area specifically for people like you, and there is even an extensive tutorial guide there), read some books / publications (try Model Railroad Hobbyist - it's a free on-line pub), and browse some online retailers to get a feel for what is available and what you can do. 

Most standard doors are 30" wide, but there are wider ones available. Check your local building supply place. There are literally thousands of plans out there-- as long as you pick one that fits on your door, it will work. You don't have to duplicate the plan exactly, either. Close enough is fine. Most plans will tell you what radius of curve they have, and you can guess how much straight track, so even if there isn't a materials list, it's not really too hard to figure out what you need.

Katk is excellent track,, but it's on the pricey side. No starter set that I'm aware of contains a turntable, although Kato does make one, as I found with with quick Google search: Kato 20-283 - Electric Turntable (SCALE=N) Part # 381-20-283

You can always buy track in smaller packs as well; probably no single starter set has everything you need for the layout you envision anyway. As far as breaking the bank, well, I hate to burst your bubble, but this is not a cheap hobby. Even track for a small layout can quickly run to hundreds of dollars, and as you can see, the turntable ain't cheap (and that's the best price of the 4 I saw). Add in controls, locomotives, rolling stock, and scenery and it runs to quite a chunk of change. The good news is that you don't have to buy it all at once. 

A cheaper route than buying roadbed track is to use flex track and commercial turnouts. Flex track comes in 1 yard or 1 meter lengths, and can be shaped into the desired configuration and cut to fit, making it more versatile than sectional track at well.

And then you need to figure out what kind of control system you want. Simple track plans running one train at I time work well in basic DC; more complicated layouts and multiple locomotives are better handled using Digital Command Control (DCC), which again is more costly and more versatile than DC, but oddly, no more complicated to wire and operate.

So this is already verging into TLDR, territory, so I'll stop here. Dig into the wealth of information that's out there, and ask about anything that isn't clear.


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## GNfan

I built an N-scale layout on a door once - one of those hollow core doors they call a Luan using Atlas sectional track. Putting down track was easy and fun - I could push the track nails in with just a nail set. But it was like 1½ inches thick, which made wiring on the underside nearly impossible.


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## lstmysock112

GNfan said:


> I built an N-scale layout on a door once - one of those hollow core doors they call a Luan using Atlas sectional track. Putting down track was easy and fun - I could push the track nails in with just a nail set. But it was like 1½ inches thick, which made wiring on the underside nearly impossible.


I am honestly considering building it on 2 inch foam board and not a door itself but just using a door as the size I am going towards.


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## lstmysock112

CTValleyRR said:


> Welcome to the hobby and the forums. It sounds like you're a real beginner, which is fine, but your post basically covers the entire scope of the hobby. Spend some time reading on the boards here (we have a beginners area specifically for people like you, and there is even an extensive tutorial guide there), read some books / publications (try Model Railroad Hobbyist - it's a free on-line pub), and browse some online retailers to get a feel for what is available and what you can do.
> 
> Most standard doors are 30" wide, but there are wider ones available. Check your local building supply place. There are literally thousands of plans out there-- as long as you pick one that fits on your door, it will work. You don't have to duplicate the plan exactly, either. Close enough is fine. Most plans will tell you what radius of curve they have, and you can guess how much straight track, so even if there isn't a materials list, it's not really too hard to figure out what you need.
> 
> Katk is excellent track,, but it's on the pricey side. No starter set that I'm aware of contains a turntable, although Kato does make one, as I found with with quick Google search: Kato 20-283 - Electric Turntable (SCALE=N) Part # 381-20-283
> 
> You can always buy track in smaller packs as well; probably no single starter set has everything you need for the layout you envision anyway. As far as breaking the bank, well, I hate to burst your bubble, but this is not a cheap hobby. Even track for a small layout can quickly run to hundreds of dollars, and as you can see, the turntable ain't cheap (and that's the best price of the 4 I saw). Add in controls, locomotives, rolling stock, and scenery and it runs to quite a chunk of change. The good news is that you don't have to buy it all at once.
> 
> A cheaper route than buying roadbed track is to use flex track and commercial turnouts. Flex track comes in 1 yard or 1 meter lengths, and can be shaped into the desired configuration and cut to fit, making it more versatile than sectional track at well.
> 
> And then you need to figure out what kind of control system you want. Simple track plans running one train at I time work well in basic DC; more complicated layouts and multiple locomotives are better handled using Digital Command Control (DCC), which again is more costly and more versatile than DC, but oddly, no more complicated to wire and operate.
> 
> So this is already verging into TLDR, territory, so I'll stop here. Dig into the wealth of information that's out there, and ask about anything that isn't clear.


If not Kato track due to the price then what brand? I did a small layout in the past but always had track issues and I think I used Atlas in the past and always had problems from day one.


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## traction fan

lstmysock112 said:


> If not Kato track due to the price then what brand? I did a small layout in the past but always had track issues and I think I used Atlas in the past and always had problems from day one.


 Atlas, Peco, or Micro Engineering, flex track should work well for you as long as you lay it correctly. The files below have more info on track, and a host of other model railroading subjects. 

Good Luck & Have Fun;

Traction Fan 🙂


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## CTValleyRR

lstmysock112 said:


> If not Kato track due to the price then what brand? I did a small layout in the past but always had track issues and I think I used Atlas in the past and always had problems from day one.


Track is track, if laid properly. Kato and other sectional track, especially with attached roadbed, is deceptive. Even though the roadbed locks together, you have to be sure the joiners align properly, and that you don't introduce kinks into the layout. Being successful with track laying is a question of exercising the time and effort required to do it properly, not by which brand of track you choose.

The exception to this is the turnouts. Of the roadbed track systems, only Kato's are worth anything. Bachmann and LifeLike turnouts are, to be polite, junk. Atlas's "Snap Switches" are not much better, although they can be improved with some careful adjustment. Atlas Custom Line, MicroEngineering, Walthers, Shinohara (no longer in business), Peco are all fine.


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## lstmysock112

CTValleyRR said:


> Track is track, if laid properly. Kato and other sectional track, especially with attached roadbed, is deceptive. Even though the roadbed locks together, you have to be sure the joiners align properly, and that you don't introduce kinks into the layout. Being successful with track laying is a question of exercising the time and effort required to do it properly, not by which brand of track you choose.
> 
> The exception to this is the turnouts. Of the roadbed track systems, only Kato's are worth anything. Bachmann and LifeLike turnouts are, to be polite, junk. Atlas's "Snap Switches" are not much better, although they can be improved with some careful adjustment. Atlas Custom Line, MicroEngineering, Walthers, Shinohara (no longer in business), Peco are all fine.


Maybe I should go Peco then or is Peco as pricey as Kato? How do I figure out what track I would need based on a set of track plans I might find online? Last thing I want to do is end up with sub standard track or switches.

CTValleyRR is that any chance related to Naugatuck Railroad that still runs as a museum type thing in CT? I used to Volunteer there a long while ago and at Branford Trolley.

Andrew


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## CTValleyRR

lstmysock112 said:


> Maybe I should go Peco then or is Peco as pricey as Kato? How do I figure out what track I would need based on a set of track plans I might find online? Last thing I want to do is end up with sub standard track or switches.
> 
> CTValleyRR is that any chance related to Naugatuck Railroad that still runs as a museum type thing in CT? I used to Volunteer there a long while ago and at Branford Trolley.
> 
> Andrew


No. The Connecticut Valley Railroad originally connected Hartford and Old Saybrook. It was acquired by the New Haven, folded into Penn Central, and then abandoned. The track from Old Saybrook to Middletown was eventually resurrected in 1971 as the Essex Steam Train, where I am a member of the Friends. I model that section of track in a fictitious mid-1950's setting. The Naugy and the trolley museum are both going strong... or were before Covid-19, anyway.


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## lstmysock112

CTValleyRR said:


> No. The Connecticut Valley Railroad originally connected Hartford and Old Saybrook. It was acquired by the New Haven, folded into Penn Central, and then abandoned. The track from Old Saybrook to Middletown was eventually resurrected in 1971 as the Essex Steam Train, where I am a member of the Friends. I model that section of track in a fictitious mid-1950's setting. The Naugy and the trolley museum are both going strong... or were before Covid-19, anyway.


Oh ok, I know Trolley museum is going strong I see updates from them on facebook all the time. I should see if I can find out the name of the railway that went through Westchester county New York right by the sawmill river parkway. Years ago I lived in Hastings on Hudson and in the early 80's some of the track was still there. Was later removed and turned into a bike and running path.


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## traction fan

lstmysock112 said:


> Maybe I should go Peco then or is Peco as pricey as Kato? How do I figure out what track I would need based on a set of track plans I might find online? Last thing I want to do is end up with sub standard track or switches.
> 
> CTValleyRR is that any chance related to Naugatuck Railroad that still runs as a museum type thing in CT? I used to Volunteer there a long while ago and at Branford Trolley.
> 
> Andrew


Andrew;

Kato, and Peco, track & turnouts are both high quality, but very different from each other. Kato is a "roadbed track" meaning it has a gray plastic piece attached to the bottom of each section of track. This piece simulates the crushed rock "ballast" seen under real railroad track. The ends of roadbed track have locking tabs that hold the track sections to each other firmly.

Peco is plain o'l track, rails & ties, but no roadbed piece. This type of track is normally laid on top of commercial cork or foam roadbed that is purchased separately. Generally speaking, roadbed track is the most expensive, per foot, of the three model track types, Sectional track, Flex track, and Roadbed track.
Peco and Kato turnouts (track switches) are both high quality, and very reliable, few, if any, derailments on either. High quality usually means higher price, but is usually well worth the cost difference. As you said yourself, you "don't want to end up with sub-standard track or switches." You're right, and I couldn't agree more.

You can find prices online at www.walthers.com (for full retail price.) Also check www.modeltrainstuff.com and www.trainworld.com both are decent online dealers. Check E-bay to see the used prices for comparison.

As for how much track you need for an online track plan, I would think that would be called out on the plan. If not, then you would need to make scale measurements of the plan to get the footage of track used. If you're using flex track (highly recommended) then you could just buy a bundle, or a group of ten 36" sections and add more if needed. Flex track can be shaped to any curve, and cut to size, so its pretty easy to form it to the plan you choose. 

Good Luck & Have Fun

Traction Fan 🙂


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## lstmysock112

Thank you


traction fan said:


> Andrew;
> 
> Kato, and Peco, track & turnouts are both high quality, but very different from each other. Kato is a "roadbed track" meaning it has a gray plastic piece attached to the bottom of each section of track. This piece simulates the crushed rock "ballast" seen under real railroad track. The ends of roadbed track have locking tabs that hold the track sections to each other firmly.
> 
> Peco is plain o'l track, rails & ties, but no roadbed piece. This type of track is normally laid on top of commercial cork or foam roadbed that is purchased separately. Generally speaking, roadbed track is the most expensive, per foot, of the three model track types, Sectional track, Flex track, and Roadbed track.
> Peco and Kato turnouts (track switches) are both high quality, and very reliable, few, if any, derailments on either. High quality usually means higher price, but is usually well worth the cost difference. As you said yourself, you "don't want to end up with sub-standard track or switches." You're right, and I couldn't agree more.
> 
> You can find prices online at www.walthers.com (for full retail price.) Also check www.modeltrainstuff.com and www.trainworld.com both are decent online dealers. Check E-bay to see the used prices for comparison.
> 
> As for how much track you need for an online track plan, I would think that would be called out on the plan. If not, then you would need to make scale measurements of the plan to get the footage of track used. If you're using flex track (highly recommended) then you could just buy a bundle, or a group of ten 36" sections and add more if needed. Flex track can be shaped to any curve, and cut to size, so its pretty easy to form it to the plan you choose. The attached files have more information on a variety of model railroad subjects.
> 
> Good Luck & Have Fun
> 
> Traction Fan 🙂


If I am not mistake to use flex track then I could not use Kato, Would have to use Peco Does peco make flex track or have to mix in Flex track from Atlas and will they work together?

Andrew


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## cfurnari

> Oh ok, I know Trolley museum is going strong I see updates from them on facebook all the time. I should see if I can find out the name of the railway that went through Westchester county New York right by the sawmill river parkway. Years ago I lived in Hastings on Hudson and in the early 80's some of the track was still there. Was later removed and turned into a bike and running path.


I think you refer to the old Putnam line


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## lstmysock112

cfurnari said:


> I think you refer to the old Putnam line


Who ran on that line New York Central? Wonder if could Model that or would getting decals and all be hard to come by. Either way looking 1950's and diesel


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## Mixed Freight

lstmysock112 said:


> Maybe I should go Peco then or is Peco as pricey as Kato? How do I figure out what track I would need based on a set of track plans I might find online? Last thing I want to do is end up with sub standard track or switches.
> 
> Andrew


Hi Andrew,

Kato track, mounted on a plastic road base, is code 80. Atlas and Peco also offer code 80 track. All 3 are compatible with each other, and can be connected to each other with rail joiners. However, since the Atlas and Peco code 80 track don't have a built-in roadbed, you would need to use some cork roadbed, and possibly some thin shims (cardboard, etc.), to help elevate it to Kato height. Atlas makes a good surface-mount turntable that is reasonable in price. It comes with a manual handcrank to operate it. You can also purchase a motorizing kit, and 3-stall roundhouse kits that can be joined together to create more stalls.

As far as turnouts go, CTValleyRR, in post #7, is spot on with his info. Heed his advice and you will be fine.

Try and build your layout with 11" minimum radius curves, or larger if possible. 9-3/4" has been the defacto train set standard forever with N-scale. This mostly limits you to 4 axle diesels, small steamers, and 40'/50'/60' freight/passenger cars. If you want to run modern day 6 axle locos, they don't always like 9-34" radius curves. Plus long passenger and long, modern freight cars look fairly ridiculous on these small radii curves, and may not run well on them either.

Good luck, and hope this helps.


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## cfurnari

Who ran on that line New York Central? Wonder if could Model that or would getting decals and all be hard to come by. Either way looking 1950's and diesel 


I remember it being called the "Old Put" line. I was also affiliated with a club, in Westchester, that had a club size where they modeled the Put line. It was impressive, unfortunately they lost their lease.


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## lstmysock112

Mixed Freight said:


> Hi Andrew,
> 
> Kato track, mounted on a plastic road base, is code 80. Atlas and Peco also offer code 80 track. All 3 are compatible with each other, and can be connected to each other with rail joiners. However, since the Atlas and Peco code 80 track don't have a built-in roadbed, you would need to use some cork roadbed, and possibly some thin shims (cardboard, etc.), to help elevate it to Kato height. Atlas makes a good surface-mount turntable that is reasonable in price. It comes with a manual handcrank to operate it. You can also purchase a motorizing kit, and 3-stall roundhouse kits that can be joined together to create more stalls.
> 
> As far as turnouts go, CTValleyRR, in post #7, is spot on with his info. Heed his advice and you will be fine.
> 
> Try and build your layout with 11" minimum radius curves, or larger if possible. 9-3/4" has been the defacto train set standard forever with N-scale. This mostly limits you to 4 axle diesels, small steamers, and 40'/50'/60' freight/passenger cars. If you want to run modern day 6 axle locos, they don't always like 9-34" radius curves. Plus long passenger and long, modern freight cars look fairly ridiculous on these small radii curves, and may not run well on them either.
> 
> Good luck, and hope this helps.


What ever I would do thinking 1950's and diesel and industrial , How would I find out what types of loco's and all where common in the 50's. Would not want more modern stuff


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## lstmysock112

https://www.trains.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/rf0900-adonnertrackplan.pdf, Thinking about some version of this, How would I translate this to know about how much peco or kato track?


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## Mixed Freight

Andrew, I get the feeling you're not only new to N-scale in particular, but new to model railroading in its entirety. With that in mind, I think you are trying to bite off WAY more than you can chew as a rank beginner. But don't get me wrong, I still admire your enthusiasm.

Kalmbach Publishing has put out many model railroading books and magazines over the years, covering all facets of model railroading. I highly suggest you do some searching and purchase a few of their books that will answer many questions you haven't even thought of yet. For instance, they published a soft-cover book entitled "Modeling the 50's, The Glory Years of Railroading", or similar to that. I have it in my stash of books, and it tells a LOT about the subject.

The track plan you mention in your last post is VERY track intensive, and should be attempted only by one with a fair amount of model railroading experience. My advice is to look for a plan with a lot less track, and therefore a lot easier to build and a lot less expensive to start with. You need to learn the basics before diving into something like that. Once again, Kalmbach Publishing has put out several soft-cover booklets on track plans, some of which feature mainly smaller layouts that can be made to fit on doors if they don't already. Atlas also offers several track planning books for smaller layouts. These are also good little booklets for beginners. Some easy searching on the internet will also pop up a lot of door-sized layouts and plans.

In your case, if you want to get going, stick with Kato Unitrack. It's pretty much bullet-proof, so to say. Buy enough for a few ovals, and get some turnouts and extra track for a few passing sidings and industrial stubs. As you read books and gain experience, you can buy more track and turnouts to expand your empire.

Good luck on your endeavors.


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## lstmysock112

Maybe something like this


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## traction fan

lstmysock112 said:


> Thank you
> 
> If I am not mistake to use flex track then I could not use Kato, Would have to use Peco Does peco make flex track or have to mix in Flex track from Atlas and will they work together?
> 
> Andrew


Andrew;

You are not mistaken. Flex track and Kato turnouts are not designed to just plug into each other. While it is technically possible  to adapt Kato turnouts and connect them to flex track. Kato turnouts are really designed to work only with Kato track. Both Kato turnouts, and Kato track pieces, are manufactured with a permanently-attached gray plastic "roadbed" piece under each piece of track. Peco, Atlas, and Micro Engineering, turnouts & track, do not have this roadbed piece attached.
The sensible plan would be to use either Kato track & Kato turnouts, OR use Peco turnouts, and whatever brand of flex track you want. Yes, Peco does make flex track., so if you prefer non-roadbed type track, you could use Peco turnouts and Peco flex track. However, plain track, (the kind without the plastic roadbed), is typically compatible from brand to brand. So you can easily mix & match brands.
As an example, Peco flex track is not commonly carried by many hobby shops, but Atlas flex track is. To get Peco flex track, you would need to have the shop special order it for you, or order it yourself online. Peco flex is also more expensive than Atlas flex track. So, if you wanted, you could use Peco turnouts with Atlas flex track. (Many have done just that.) That way you would have decent flex track, at a lower price, and excellent turnouts, a winning combination.

The only thing necessary for connecting one brand of plain (non-roadbed) track ,to another brand of turnout, or track, is to have the same "rail code" on the two track brands you want to connect. So what is rail code? It is simply the height of the rails in thousandths of an inch. For instance, two popular track types/codes commonly used in HO-scale are "Code 100" and "Code 83." The Code 100 rails are 100/1000ths" high and the Code 83 rails are 83/1000ths" high. Either code track will work fine. The Code 83 track just looks a little more realistic, in terms of rail size. The rail codes are all about appearance, not function.
So, if you decide to use Peco turnouts, they are available in either code 100, or code 83. Track, (whether Peco or Atlas), is also available in either code 100, or code 83. Just pick one code, and use track, and turnouts, that all have the same code.
While it is possible to mate two pieces of track with different rail codes, you're just starting out, so I recommend keeping things simple, by just using one code.
Good Luck & Have Fun;

Traction Fan 🙂


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## Bigfoot21075

Here is a video on how to incorporate Kato Unitrack with Flex Track using the Kato adapter piece.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fE_lx8MBTAY


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## Bigfoot21075

OP, I meant to post this for you, I was not sure if you saw this, but I have always thought is was a clever idea for a door layout.






You can see his track plan at 37 seconds on his command center diagram BTW.


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## lstmysock112

Like I had said before I used to volunteer at Branford Trolley museum in CT. This is brooklyn El car 1349 built in 1905, The same year my granddad was born. Anyway when I first went there this car was dead rotting in one of the barns. Ended up with a lot of help rebuilding the motor truck, Needed the wheel sets to be run through the wheel lath. Each Wheel set is about 1 thousand lbs, Each motor are about 5 1/2 tons each. Also redid the roof as it had more holes then swiss cheese and put down a new canvas. Was a big learning curve. Also put on the trolley poles as this car did not have them but it has the wiring for it as when they originally build had trolley poles for street operation but later removed.


On another note I ordered the book on modeling the 50's , Ended up finding it on ebay for 21 dollars, Amazon had a copy for 27 and also for 67 lol. Must be out of print.


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## GNfan

traction fan said:


> As an example, Peco flex track is not commonly carried by many hobby shops, but Atlas flex track is. To get Peco flex track, you would need to have the shop special order it for you, or order it yourself online.


It may be best to use whatever brand of flex track your LHS sells - Atlas and Peco flex track are sometimes only sold online in "wholesale" quantities like packs of 25 for $150.00.


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## lstmysock112

I found a nice plan I like but it was made with Atlas RTS. Is there anyway to convert it or import it into something like Anyrail? That would give me a leg up on knowing about what pieces of track I will need since RTS will just tell me in Atlas and not any other brand.


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## CTValleyRR

lstmysock112 said:


> Thank you
> 
> If I am not mistake to use flex track then I could not use Kato, Would have to use Peco Does peco make flex track or have to mix in Flex track from Atlas and will they work together?
> 
> Andrew


You can mix and match any track pieces that do not have roadbed attached right out of the box, as long as the code of the rail is the same. Mixing roadbed track from different manufacturers, roadbed and non-roadbed track, or rail of different heights (codes) can be done, but it requires a little more effort to make things align and join properly. It's all manufactured to National Model Railroad Assn (NMRA) standards, so it all fits together.


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## lstmysock112

CTValleyRR said:


> You can mix and match any track pieces that do not have roadbed attached right out of the box, as long as the code of the rail is the same. Mixing roadbed track from different manufacturers, roadbed and non-roadbed track, or rail of different heights (codes) can be done, but it requires a little more effort to make things align and join properly. It's all manufactured to National Model Railroad Assn (NMRA) standards, so it all fits together.


I get that is there any way to merge that last track plan into the anyrail system? As RTS will just tell me parts needed in Atlas but not have a clue about kato.

I asked for help from trainworld to figure out aprox what I would need in track and the response I got was we do not do track planing. Hmmm ok not asking for track planing but figuring out what kato track I would need to make this plan work. I do not have a clue about what turnouts and so on. I saw what part I would need to connect Kato to Atlas or any other track. Kato makes a part to use with their unirail system. The Atlas turntable is like 50 dollars when Kato is like 300


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## CTValleyRR

lstmysock112 said:


> I found a nice plan I like but it was made with Atlas RTS. Is there anyway to convert it or import it into something like Anyrail? That would give me a leg up on knowing about what pieces of track I will need since RTS will just tell me in Atlas and not any other brand.


There is no conversion tool, no. But it's simplicity itself to do. If the Atlas plan calls for a 9" straight, part number 12-234, you can use any other manufacturer's 9" straight piece. Even if RTS only gives you the ir part number, not description, it's not hard to look those up. You can even substitute a 9" piece of flex track cut from a longer piece. Same for a curve (although you can bend a standard 36" length of flex track into 90 degrees of 18" curve with ease).

The only place you will run into a little trouble is with turnouts. First of all, no two manufacturers have exactly the same dimensions, even if they're the same type. A bigger issue is that the layout is almost certainly designed using Snap Switches, which have a CURVED diverging leg, whereas better quality turnouts have a STRAIGHT diverging leg. This will require a lot of tweaking in your part, unless you stick with those. And as previously stated, the quality of those ain't so hot.

You may also run into some issues with that sloped yellow section. It may turn out to be unacceptably steep (anything over 2% should be approached with caution; over 3% should be avoided).

EDIT: seeing your, last post, don't be too hard on Trainworld. What you were asking them to do isn't DIFFICULT, but it is time consuming, and they know as well as I do that changing the turnout type would require some replanning or adjusting.


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## lstmysock112

CTValleyRR said:


> There is no conversion tool, no. But it's simplicity itself to do. If the Atlas plan calls for a 9" straight, part number 12-234, you can use any other manufacturer's 9" straight piece. Even if RTS only gives you the ir part number, not description, it's not hard to look those up. You can even substitute a 9" piece of flex track cut from a longer piece. Same for a curve (although you can bend a standard 36" length of flex track into 90 degrees of 18" curve with ease).
> 
> The only place you will run into a little trouble is with turnouts. First of all, no two manufacturers have exactly the same dimensions, even if they're the same type. A bigger issue is that the layout is almost certainly designed using Snap Switches, which have a CURVED diverging leg, whereas better quality turnouts have a STRAIGHT diverging leg. This will require a lot of tweaking in your part, unless you stick with those. And as previously stated, the quality of those ain't so hot.
> 
> You may also run into some issues with that sloped yellow section. It may turn out to be unacceptably steep (anything over 2% should be approached with caution; over 3% should be avoided).


Is there a good sorce for N scale plans that are done in the anyrail system? Or someone out there that does track planing and can convert this track plan to something that will work with Kato with out issue. I do not have to make the grades like they have theme listed in this plan I found.


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## CTValleyRR

Did you try the Anyrail website? They have a bunch there. Or take an HO one and scale it down.

Or just take Anyrail and design your own, using other plans for inspiration. It would take about 15 minutes to do something in Anyrail that is similar to, but not an exact replica of, the layout in post #26. I basically just told you how above.


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## lstmysock112

CTValleyRR said:


> Did you try the Anyrail website? They have a bunch there. Or take an HO one and scale it down.
> 
> Or just take Anyrail and design your own, using other plans for inspiration. It would take about 15 minutes to do something in Anyrail that is similar to, but not an exact replica of, the layout in post #26. I basically just told you how above.


I did I am waiting on forum acses now to their site. I tried the any rail system but I can not really figure the darn thing out how to remake that track plan. Maybe someone reading this might be nice enough to do it for me?

Andrew


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## CTValleyRR

lstmysock112 said:


> I did I am waiting on forum acses now to their site. I tried the any rail system but I can not really figure the darn thing out how to remake that track plan. Maybe someone reading this might be nice enough to do it for me?
> 
> Andrew


I will do it for the sake of an old Nutmegger, although I really think you're gonna have to spread your wings and leave the nest pretty soon. Send me a PM with your e-mail address.


----------



## lstmysock112

CTValleyRR said:


> I will do it for the sake of an old Nutmegger, although I really think you're gonna have to spread your wings and leave the nest pretty soon. Send me a PM with your e-mail address.


Thank you so much, I tried to set the original plan as a background but each time I followed the directions it was not giving me an option to set it.


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## lstmysock112

Anyone make Model structures for N scale that are the most realistic? Possibly even wood and not plastic?


----------



## traction fan

lstmysock112 said:


> Anyone make Model structures for N scale that are the most realistic? Possibly even wood and not plastic?


Yes. There are laser-cut wood kits available in N-scale. A member called JeffHurl has posted photos of several wood structures he has built.
Plastic structures can also be made quite realistic looking by painting and detailing them. You can also scratchbuild structures with either wood or styrene. The photos show some examples on my layout. All are N-scale, some are commercial plastic kits, many are scratchbuilt, and some are kitbashed. The attached file lists some American style homes that are available in N-scale. There are also many railroad and industrial structures available. 

Traction Fan 🙂


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## JeffHurl

Here is a link to some reviews I have done. I like the laser cut wood kits the best for smaller structures like houses, shacks, small businesses, etc.

Plastic is better for larger buildings in my opinion.

N scale structure observations


----------



## lstmysock112

JeffHurl said:


> Here is a link to some reviews I have done. I like the laser cut wood kits the best for smaller structures like houses, shacks, small businesses, etc.
> 
> Plastic is better for larger buildings in my opinion.
> 
> N scale structure observations


Do you have info on those kits?


----------



## JeffHurl

Yes, the manufacturer and kit name are in the posts.

I bought a Walther's kit that had 13 plastic structure kits included in the box. 12 of them are buildings like you might find in a large rural county seat. The 13th kit was a small industrial building that is a transfer station, sort of like a cross dock warehouse served by rail and road. I bought it second hand, with six of the structures already built. I built the rest and painted them.

That kit did a good job of providing the heart of the town, but I needed houses and smaller buildings to round out the town.

I like American Model Builders and also Blair Line for laser cut wood kits. I haven't tried too many other manufacturers.

I have bought from several online retailers like Hobbylink, Midwest Model Railroad, Yankee Dabbler, etc.


----------



## CTValleyRR

lstmysock112 said:


> Anyone make Model structures for N scale that are the most realistic? Possibly even wood and not plastic?


"Most realistic" can be defined several ways, either a highly accurate reproduction of a real building, or that just have lots of detail so they look real.

If you were to Google "N-scale building kits", you would get hundreds (maybe thousands) of results. Whether made of wood or plastic, few models look like a real building out of the box. Generally, the more expensive the model, the more detailed it is, but wood isn't necessarily more realistic than plastic. It more depends on which material you prefer to work with. Painting, weathering, and adding extra details make building kits look much better. 

Walthers is the largest wholesaler in North America. While they don't carry everything, they have a huge selection (including their own Cornerstone line, which are high quality plastic kits). Their website is www.walthers.com


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## traction fan

JeffHurl said:


> Yes, the manufacturer and kit name are in the posts.
> 
> I bought a Walther's kit that had 13 plastic structure kits included in the box. 12 of them are buildings like you might find in a large rural county seat. The 13th kit was a small industrial building that is a transfer station, sort of like a cross dock warehouse served by rail and road. I bought it second hand, with six of the structures already built. I built the rest and painted them.
> 
> That kit did a good job of providing the heart of the town, but I needed houses and smaller buildings to round out the town.
> 
> I like American Model Builders and also Blair Line for laser cut wood kits. I haven't tried too many other manufacturers.
> 
> I have bought from several online retailers like Hobbylink, Midwest Model Railroad, Yankee Dabbler, etc.


Jeff;

Here's a list of N-scale houses. Hopefully you will find some to complete your town. 

Traction Fan 🙂


----------



## lstmysock112

Also when I go to put track down or before on the benchwork. Do most people paint the plywood? Or use foam and do scenery on the foam? Maybe some good videos on this subject if someone knows of some good ones.


----------



## traction fan

lstmysock112 said:


> Also when I go to put track down or before on the benchwork. Do most people paint the plywood? Or use foam and do scenery on the foam? Maybe some good videos on this subject if someone knows of some good ones.


 I recommend painting the plywood, or the foam before laying track. You may also want to paint the track itself. Commercial track usually has very shiny silver rails on very shiny black or brown plastic ties. Spray painting the track with a can of flat rusty brown primer will improve the appearance of the track a lot. You can get Krylon, or Rustoleum spray primer at Home Depot, Lowes, or Walmart. For painting your plywood or foam get some "dirt brown color" flat latex interior house paint. Check at Home Depot, or Lowes for discounted unwanted paints that someone had mixed, and then didn't like the color. The stores usually have some of these around at reduced prices. Raw plywood, or the pink, blue, or green extruded foam, don't resemble anything in nature, so painting them to look like dirt make sense. 

Traction Fan 🙂


----------



## lstmysock112

JeffHurl said:


> Yes, the manufacturer and kit name are in the posts.
> 
> I bought a Walther's kit that had 13 plastic structure kits included in the box. 12 of them are buildings like you might find in a large rural county seat. The 13th kit was a small industrial building that is a transfer station, sort of like a cross dock warehouse served by rail and road. I bought it second hand, with six of the structures already built. I built the rest and painted them.
> 
> That kit did a good job of providing the heart of the town, but I needed houses and smaller buildings to round out the town.
> 
> I like American Model Builders and also Blair Line for laser cut wood kits. I haven't tried too many other manufacturers.
> 
> I have bought from several online retailers like Hobbylink, Midwest Model Railroad, Yankee Dabbler, etc.


I should be getting the book soon on modeling the 1950's. Any insight on models and even what trains fit this time frame? Could even go up into the 60's. So a mixture of some steam and diesel I am guessing.


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## JeffHurl

Sony's Filling Station was a fun build.

Next up is the N Scale Sonny's Super Service Pre-Fab Building Kit by Woodland Scenics for $23.39 (their pic below). This kit is “pre-fabbed” but does require assembly. It is plastic and was simple to build. It contains a LOT of small details, including everything you see in the picture except the vehicles, and trees and shrubs. The small details were fun to add to the building. All the small details attach to the building except for the stand-alone sign you see in the foreground by the tan & brown vehicle. It also came with dry-transfer decals of which, most are left over when done, as there is only room for so many. Some of the details included: A motorcycle that leans up against the side of the building. A couple pallets of stuff that end up along the back side of the building. Watering can and bucket with a hose coiled up that hangs on the back side. A plie of tires. Ice Machine, Soda Pop Machine, Propane Tank, trash cans, etc. This was a fun kit to assemble with good directions. Lots of small parts (all the accessories). Overall, I am happy with this kit. It was relatively simple to put together, and has a lot of cool little details


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## 498cm3

traction fan said:


> I recommend painting the plywood, or the foam before laying track. You may also want to paint the track itself. Commercial track usually has very shiny silver rails on very shiny black or brown plastic ties. Spray painting the track with a can of flat rusty brown primer will improve the appearance of the track a lot. You can get Krylon, or Rustoleum spray primer at Home Depot, Lowes, or Walmart. For painting your plywood or foam get some "dirt brown color" flat latex interior house paint. Check at Home Depot, or Lowes for discounted unwanted paints that someone had mixed, and then didn't like the color. The stores usually have some of these around at reduced prices. Raw plywood, or the pink, blue, or green extruded foam, don't resemble anything in nature, so painting them to look like dirt make sense.
> 
> Traction Fan


Definitely pre paint the ties and rails. And put the rust on the the rails too. I don't have much experience, so I did my track weathering in situ, doable but I could see benefits of pre finishing.
As far as how prefinishing affects the soldering process I don't know, but I'm sure there is a work around.

Sent from my moto e6 using Tapatalk


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## traction fan

498cm3 said:


> Definitely pre paint the ties and rails. And put the rust on the the rails too. I don't have much experience, so I did my track weathering in situ, doable but I could see benefits of pre finishing.
> As far as how prefinishing affects the soldering process I don't know, but I'm sure there is a work around.
> 
> Sent from my moto e6 using Tapatalk


As mentioned, the entire pieces of track can be spray painted.
For rails to solder, they need to be clean, bare, metal, so you will need to sand/file off a bit of paint in the area to be soldered.
I use a 30 watt soldering iron, water-based flux, and 60/40 rosin core solder. Before, and during, soldering, apply paper towels, wet with cold water, over the track on either side of the soldering area. These will act as heat sinks, to protect the plastic ties from melting.

Traction Fan 🙂


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## OilValleyRy

Many many years ago in one of the many many Kalmbach books was an N scale layout on a door called Mohawk Valley. It lacked a turntable but a door is typically 6 foot, so a 2 foot addition could accommodate that.
Interestingly, that layout represented Canajohaire NY, which I since stopped in without realizing the connection at first. When it clicked in my head, I walked up to the bridge over the Amtrak & ex-Conrail mainlines, and I swear to god I felt like a plastic figure resting on a giant door. It was just surreal. I looked to the sky for a gargantuan camera man, I kid you not. A real twilight zone moment.


----------



## lstmysock112

OilValleyRy said:


> Many many years ago in one of the many many Kalmbach books was an N scale layout on a door called Mohawk Valley. It lacked a turntable but a door is typically 6 foot, so a 2 foot addition could accommodate that.
> Interestingly, that layout represented Canajohaire NY, which I since stopped in without realizing the connection at first. When it clicked in my head, I walked up to the bridge over the Amtrak & ex-Conrail mainlines, and I swear to god I felt like a plastic figure resting on a giant door. It was just surreal. I looked to the sky for a gargantuan camera man, I kid you not. A real twilight zone moment.


Do you by any chance remember what book? Was it one of the magazines?


----------



## OilValleyRy

lstmysock112 said:


> Do you by any chance remember what book? Was it one of the magazines?


It was originally printed in Model Railroader magazine around 1992-94 I believe. Since reprinted in a Kalmbach book, maybe one titled “small layouts you can build” or something like that. I believe, although could be mistaken, that the “layout book” had it on the cover. I was to say that book was from around…2000-2002 but I’m just guessing. My bean counter short changes me a lot these days Lol
I googled it hoping to find it but only seeing search returns for a different layout of the same name. If I find it I’ll link it, or if I can locate that book.

EDIT: I did find Dave Vollmer’s layout which appears to be a modified version of the same plan. The roadways are slightly different & he added a yard addition on one end, essentially what I was suggesting.


About Dave Vollmer's N Scale Juniata Division


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## lstmysock112

OilValleyRy said:


> It was originally printed in Model Railroader magazine around 1992-94 I believe. Since reprinted in a Kalmbach book, maybe one titled “small layouts you can build” or something like that. I believe, although could be mistaken, that the “layout book” had it on the cover. I was to say that book was from around…2000-2002 but I’m just guessing. My bean counter short changes me a lot these days Lol
> I googled it hoping to find it but only seeing search returns for a different layout of the same name. If I find it I’ll link it, or if I can locate that book.
> 
> EDIT: I did find Dave Vollmer’s layout which appears to be a modified version of the same plan. The roadways are slightly different & he added a yard addition on one end, essentially what I was suggesting.
> 
> 
> About Dave Vollmer's N Scale Juniata Division


Thank you for sharing, The entire thing would be too big for me of course.


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## traction fan

OilValleyRy said:


> Many many years ago in one of the many many Kalmbach books was an N scale layout on a door called Mohawk Valley. It lacked a turntable but a door is typically 6 foot, so a 2 foot addition could accommodate that.
> Interestingly, that layout represented Canajohaire NY, which I since stopped in without realizing the connection at first. When it clicked in my head, I walked up to the bridge over the Amtrak & ex-Conrail mainlines, and I swear to god I felt like a plastic figure resting on a giant door. It was just surreal. I looked to the sky for a gargantuan camera man, I kid you not. A real twilight zone moment.


Standard doors are 6'-8" so if the 2' extension were added, you would even have a little more room for the turntable. Or the extension could just be shortened 8", to make the overall length of the layout 8 feet. There is a neat little N-scale door layout called, "The EZ & Quick" in the old 1970s Kalmbach book, "N-scale Primer." No turntable, though there's room to add one. Also a simpler track plan, though perhaps worth a look. The track used was Arnold Rapido sectional track & turnouts which were lousy, (steel rail if I remember correctly) and are mercifully long out of production. I once built the layout, with Atlas sectional track & turnouts. I gave it to my nephew for christmas many years ago. 

Traction Fan 🙂


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## lstmysock112

traction fan said:


> Standard doors are 6'-8" so if the 2' extension were added, you would even have a little more room for the turntable. Or the extension could just be shortened 8", to make the overall length of the layout 8 feet. There is a neat little N-scale door layout called, "The EZ & Quick" in the old 1970s Kalmbach book, "N-scale Primer." No turntable, though there's room to add one. Also a simpler track plan, though perhaps worth a look. The track used was Arnold Rapido sectional track & turnouts which were lousy, (steel rail if I remember correctly) and are mercifully long out of production. I once built the layout, with Atlas sectional track & turnouts. I gave it to my nephew for christmas many years ago.
> 
> Traction Fan 🙂


Cool thanks, Believe it or not I found a copy of the book N Scale primer on Amazon and only 2.33 for the price. So I will get a chance to see the plans for myself. Wish they had a lot of these old model railroaders online to be able to read.


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## traction fan

lstmysock112 said:


> Cool thanks, Believe it or not I found a copy of the book N Scale primer on Amazon and only 2.33 for the price. So I will get a chance to see the plans for myself. Wish they had a lot of these old model railroaders online to be able to read.


You may want to use a trick that I did on any layout you build with sectional track. When you build a curve from Atlas sections use a 19' radius section (or two) at each end of the curve. For the middle, main, part of the curve use 11" radius curved sections. I suggest not using any 9-3/4" radius sections since they are very tight curves. Even better, use flex track instead of sectional track, and Peco turnouts instead of Atlas turnouts.
The only type of Atlas turnouts available in N-scale are the somewhat infamous "Snap Switches" and they are very poorly made, & highly temperamental, often causing derailments.
Peco turnouts, are just the opposite. Very well made, and highly reliable. They seldom, if ever, cause any derailments.
If you already have a bunch of Atlas turnouts, you can improve their performance quite a bit by doing the modifications in the files below. Even with the improvements though, the Atlas will not be as good as the Peco.
Use a 36" wide door, if you possibly can. Standard doors are all the same height/length (6'-8") but come in 30", 32", 34" & 36" widths. Give yourself as much layout room as you can. Also use a hollow-core door. These are much, much, lighter weight than solid-core doors, and less expensive too. 

Good Luck & Have Fun;

Traction Fan 🙂


----------



## lstmysock112

traction fan said:


> You may want to use a trick that I did on any layout you build with sectional track. When you build a curve from Atlas sections use a 19' radius section (or two) at each end of the curve. For the middle, main, part of the curve use 11" radius curved sections. I suggest not using any 9-3/4" radius sections since they are very tight curves. Even better, use flex track instead of sectional track, and Peco turnouts instead of Atlas turnouts.
> The only type of Atlas turnouts available in N-scale are the somewhat infamous "Snap Switches" and they are very poorly made, & highly temperamental, often causing derailments.
> Peco turnouts, are just the opposite. Very well made, and highly reliable. They seldom, if ever, cause any derailments.
> If you already have a bunch of Atlas turnouts, you can improve their performance quite a bit by doing the modifications in the files below. Even with the improvements though, the Atlas will not be as good as the Peco.
> Use a 36" wide door, if you possibly can. Standard doors are all the same height/length (6'-8") but come in 30", 32", 34" & 36" widths. Give yourself as much layout room as you can. Also use a hollow-core door. These are much, much, lighter weight than solid-core doors, and less expensive too.
> 
> Good Luck & Have Fun;
> 
> Traction Fan 🙂



Okay I am going to be using Kato switches, Was told by a few people about Atlas switches. Going to make some benchwork to hold this layout. Just used a door as more of a size reference.


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## CTValleyRR

lstmysock112 said:


> Thank you for sharing, The entire thing would be too big for me of course.


MR has their entire track plan database online, but it's only accessible to subscribers.


----------



## traction fan

lstmysock112 said:


> Okay I am going to be using Kato switches, Was told by a few people about Atlas switches. Going to make some benchwork to hold this layout. Just used a door as more of a size reference.


OK, if you plan to use Kato switches/turnouts then I assume you are going to use Kato track with them. That's a good option. Many members here use Kato Unitrack and turnouts. Kato products are noted for their high quality and the Unitrack system is very popular here. While I have not personally used it, all I hear about it is very favorable.

Good Luck & Have Fun;

Traction Fan 🙂


----------



## lstmysock112

CTValleyRR said:


> MR has their entire track plan database online, but it's only accessible to subscribers.


Are they real and decent track plans? Do they have copies set in Anyrail but guessing that would be asking a lot.


----------



## lstmysock112

traction fan said:


> OK, if you plan to use Kato switches/turnouts then I assume you are going to use Kato track with them. That's a good option. Many members here use Kato Unitrack and turnouts.
> 
> Good Luck & Have Fun;
> 
> Traction Fan 🙂


Yes as far as I know Kato and peco are the only real options for decent turnouts switches


----------



## CTValleyRR

lstmysock112 said:


> Are they real and decent track plans? Do they have copies set in Anyrail but guessing that would be asking a lot.


No... they are not track plans per se, but layouts. And they are PDFs. While they all have descriptions (minimum turnout number, min curve radius, max grade,etc), you would have to reproduce it in Anyrail. I have done this (see post #6 in this thread: A Collection of Track Plans ).

But, they are all quality layouts, designed with purpose and a specific plan of operations in mind, not just ones thrown together for the sake of marketing.


----------



## lstmysock112

CTValleyRR said:


> No... they are not track plans per se, but layouts. And they are PDFs. While they all have descriptions (minimum turnout number, min curve radius, max grade,etc), you would have to reproduce it in Anyrail. I have done this (see post #6 in this thread: A Collection of Track Plans ).
> 
> But, they are all quality layouts, designed with purpose and a specific plan of operations in mind, not just ones thrown together for the sake of marketing.


I found this one will have to see about anyrail. Any good tutorials for anyrail?


----------



## CTValleyRR

Nice little layout. My only concern is trying to do slopes in a layout that small. You have no choice but to do steep grades. That one eases the problem a bit by having one track descend 1" and the other ascend 1" to get the necessary clearance.

There aren't any tutorials for Anyrail that I am aware of, but it's so intuitive you really don't need them. Read the online manual, and if you get stuck, ask. One of us frequent Anyrail users has probably figured it out already.


----------



## lstmysock112

CTValleyRR said:


> Nice little layout. My only concern is trying to do slopes in a layout that small. You have no choice but to do steep grades. That one eases the problem a bit by having one track descend 1" and the other ascend 1" to get the necessary clearance.
> 
> There aren't any tutorials for Anyrail that I am aware of, but it's so intuitive you really don't need them. Read the online manual, and if you get stuck, ask. One of us frequent Anyrail users has probably figured it out already.


Since I am still in the early planing stage is it even possible to do a small layout with HO instead of N? My guess maybe not with it being only 36 inches wide. Unless I would do a straight yard kind of thing with no turns.


----------



## CTValleyRR

lstmysock112 said:


> Since I am still in the early planing stage is it even possible to do a small layout with HO instead of N? My guess maybe not with it being only 36 inches wide. Unless I would do a straight yard kind of thing with no turns.


Correct. If 36" really is the maximum width you can fit, then the largest turn you could manage is 15" radius (because radius is in the track centerline so at 18" your rails would hang over the edge). So if you want a continuous loop, N scales is your only option. 

That said, if you're willing to give up the continuous running, there are lots of nice switching layouts that would fit in that footprint in HO.


----------



## lstmysock112

CTValleyRR said:


> Correct. If 36" really is the maximum width you can fit, then the largest turn you could manage is 15" radius (because radius is in the track centerline so at 18" your rails would hang over the edge). So if you want a continuous loop, N scales is your only option.
> 
> That said, if you're willing to give up the continuous running, there are lots of nice switching layouts that would fit in that footprint in HO.


Have been looking for decent switching HO layouts but most seem very sparce or too big


----------



## CTValleyRR

lstmysock112 said:


> Have been looking for decent switching HO layouts but most seem very sparce or too big


Space is everything. You can't stuff 10 pounds of manure into a 5 pound bag, and the amount of space you have dictates to a large extent what you can put in it. You either have to accept the limitations imposed by your space, or find a way to either increase the space or use it more effectively.


----------



## lstmysock112

CTValleyRR said:


> Space is everything. You can't stuff 10 pounds of manure into a 5 pound bag, and the amount of space you have dictates to a large extent what you can put in it. You either have to accept the limitations imposed by your space, or find a way to either increase the space or use it more effectively.


I get that, is it possible to setup kind of like a broken U turn with HO. So at one end the train pulls past a switch into a dead end, You throw the switch and then the train backs up, goes past the switch, throw another switch and now the train can come back out on the main siding facing op direction of what they started as. Not sure what you would call it in train speak.


----------



## MichaelE

You are talking about a wye, but I don't know if you have room enough to turn even a short train unless it is older era equipment a short switcher diesels or steam tank locomotives. Still going to be a tight fit.


----------



## lstmysock112

MichaelE said:


> You are talking about a wye, but I don't know if you have room enough to turn even a short train unless it is older era equipment a short switcher diesels or steam tank locomotives. Still going to be a tight fit.


Not the entire train, Just the locomotive or maybe just better to do a turntable


----------



## CTValleyRR

lstmysock112 said:


> Not the entire train, Just the locomotive or maybe just better to do a turntable


In order to reverse directions of the entire train, you have to be able to fit the whole train into each leg of the wye. If you just want to turn the loco, you need tracks to be able to run it around the train to get back to the front. And it doesn't really save much space, either. Real trains, and our locos, aren't geared for forward and reverse like road vehicles are. You simple run the traction motors in the opposite direction (or start steam in the opposite end of the piston), so they run equally well forwards or backwards. There are some challenges running backwards (you need a real person on the lead car, for instance), and some long trains might not handle being pushed as well as pulled, but it can be done.


----------



## lstmysock112

I believe I am going to stick with N scale as it gives a lot more flexability


----------



## traction fan

lstmysock112 said:


> I believe I am going to stick with N scale as it gives a lot more flexibility


 Given your space limits, that sounds like a wise decision. A change of one scale size seldom causes any serious problems, except those related to available space. HO-scale and N-scale are both very popular, run reliably, have plenty available. and are close in price. 
The deciding factor is often space. In your case a layout that will fit on a door-sized space is simply going to be easier in the smaller scale.

Traction Fan 🙂


----------



## lstmysock112

https://www.katousa.com/PDF/plans/N-plan-manning-oaks.pdf



Going with this layout after everything said and done. I am not any good at working the anyrail program. Anyone decided to do New York Central (NYC). Does anyone in N scale put out freight cars that would match the 1940's and 50's, Do not have to be marked New York Central but that would be a bonus. Maybe freight car kits?

Andrew


----------



## OilValleyRy

lstmysock112 said:


> https://www.katousa.com/PDF/plans/N-plan-manning-oaks.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> Going with this layout after everything said and done. I am not any good at working the anyrail program. Anyone decided to do New York Central (NYC). Does anyone in N scale put out freight cars that would match the 1940's and 50's, Do not have to be marked New York Central but that would be a bonus. Maybe freight car kits?
> 
> Andrew


Yes, quite a few. 2 bay NYC coal hoppers, michigan central (nyc) gondolas, etc. TOFC, I swear I have a NYC wood reefer. I’ve got three bachmann 4-6-0s, 2 unlettered, 1 NYC all decoder equipped. Also a custom lettered and weathered Kato Mohawk, and I think a Niagara that has yet to be stripped down, but I have the decals. I also have a ABBA set of Intermountain FTs in lightning stripes, no DCC installed. I also have a Kato 6 car streamlined passenger set in mint condition, and the PA PB set.

I’m willing to part with all of it, *except* that passenger set. I might sell that for the right price. It’s iffy, spent 6 years hunting for it, paid through the nose. It's exceptionally rare even in “fair” condition with applied detail parts, or some missing. Mine are all on the sprues, in the bag, with the factory tape sealing it, in the foam lined binder. It’s the pride of my N scale collection.
That gem aside, I’d let the rest (9 locos total and 12+ NYC lettered assorted freight cars, 2 lighted spectrum heavyweight passenger cars) go for $950. Some are weathered (by me) and some are NIB.

On another note, whether N or HO, a New York harbor pier layout during WWII would be a packed narrow layout.


----------



## lstmysock112

OilValleyRy said:


> Yes, quite a few. 2 bay NYC coal hoppers, michigan central (nyc) gondolas, etc. TOFC, I swear I have a NYC wood reefer. I’ve got three bachmann 4-6-0s, 2 unlettered, 1 NYC all decoder equipped. Also a custom lettered and weathered Kato Mohawk, and I think a Niagara that has yet to be stripped down, but I have the decals. I also have a ABBA set of Intermountain FTs in lightning stripes, no DCC installed. I also have a Kato 6 car streamlined passenger set in mint condition, and the PA PB set.
> 
> I’m willing to part with all of it, *except* that passenger set. I might sell that for the right price. It’s iffy, spent 6 years hunting for it, paid through the nose. It's exceptionally rare even in “fair” condition with applied detail parts, or some missing. Mine are all on the sprues, in the bag, with the factory tape sealing it, in the foam lined binder. It’s the pride of my N scale collection.
> That gem aside, I’d let the rest (9 locos total and 12+ NYC lettered assorted freight cars, 2 lighted spectrum heavyweight passenger cars) go for $950. Some are weathered (by me) and some are NIB.
> 
> On another note, whether N or HO, a New York harbor pier layout during WWII would be a packed narrow layout.



Does anyone make rolling stock kits like they do for HO? I am going to pass on thinking of buying your stuff or anything used right now. I still have a bunch of track and other stuff to buy first. Just trying to find where I can get them later on.


----------



## traction fan

lstmysock112 said:


> Does anyone make rolling stock kits like they do for HO? I am going to pass on thinking of buying your stuff or anything used right now. I still have a bunch of track and other stuff to buy first. Just trying to find where I can get them later on.


Istmysock112;

Your track plan choice looks good. I like the scenic divider idea and often recommend it.
Intermountain makes some boxcar kits in N-scale, as well as in HO-scale, and O-scale. Ready-to-run cars from the 1940s & 1950s are fairly common.
Micro-Trains cars are excellent. Athearn, and Atlas, are also good brands. You can check www.walthers.com www.modeltrainstuff.com & www.trainworld.com to see what's available. If you haven't already done so, you might also scroll down a couple of threads here in the N-scale forum and read the one about "top-rated N-scale freight car manufacturers."

Traction Fan 🙂


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## OilValleyRy

Oh, kit-wise in N scale…. AFAIK the closest thing would be Intermountain which has some “semi-kit” form. Like needing to add the brake stem & wheel on the B end. N scale rolling stock kits are not common for obvious reasons. There might be some “fringe” companies that provide car bodies to swap onto existing car frames or something. 
Unless things have changed in the last 7 or 8 years.


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## GNfan

I've seen some "craftsman" level caboose kits that are quite pricey and are noted as "less trucks, couplers, and decals"; and OilValleyRy seems to be right about Intermountain. Sorry, but you really can't save money in N scale on rolling stock by building kits the way you could in HO in the days of Athearn blue box and Roundhouse kits.


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## lstmysock112

Another question I know a lot of people Solder their track together. Guessing that is not the case with Kato unitrack, I see kato puts out there own feeder wires that make wiring the track easy with out having to use those special feeder sections with the plug that pulls out.


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## JeffHurl

You are correct, no need to solder Kato Unitrack


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## OilValleyRy

Yeah they work great. And Kato makes a little blue tool (included with track) for pulling joiners out of the molded roadbed.
Kato turnouts are power routing too. Which means if you have a set of feeders before the points, the tracks beyond the frog are powered according to which way the points are thrown. This is helpful at times.
While I’m mostly an HO modeler, here is my 8 foot N industrial switching layout. 5 sets of feeders throughout. But the near tracks with the caboose & the one with the loco parked beside it are power routed. That loco won’t move unless the points are thrown. There is an RS-1 way down at the other end, which normally parks in front of the caboose. So it can be useful in parking locos.
Every other track is energized regardless of the point position of nearby turnouts.


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## lstmysock112

Thinking since this layout I picked is 3x6 and my benchwork will be 3x8. I should and could add a yard off the left end of the layout off the dead end track that runs on the outside of the outside loop on the left side. Guessing a couple switches and some more track and make a simple little yard.


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## 498cm3

I can't remember the manufacturer but they have some TTX well car kits. Decals but no trucks or couplers.

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## nightfly

I notice that no one mentioned Tomix n scale track; as good or better than Kato (if that can be believed) and comes in even more different radius's and types and sizes of switches and such. While not generally available in U.S. hobby shops it is available from lots of online vendors. I get mine from a website called PlazaJapan Model Train - N scale - Track - Page 1 - Plaza Japan . and they have an ebay site as well. Should you go Kato for most of your setup, here's a conversion track so you can use both. Kato 20-045 62mm (2 7/16') Snap-Track Conversion Track
When I switched from O scale to N, I started with Kato, but was amazed at how much Tomix made, so you can use both. Oh, and both seem to be much easier to keep clean than flex track and others, I'm not sure but I think it's because of what they're made of. I like to run my trains, not spend a lot of time working on the track, but to each their own! Oh, and I hate Kato #4 turnouts; they should have worked right out of the box, so if you wind up with headaches from those, it's not just you (another reason to use Tomix track sometimes!).


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## Aqualungs

Bigfoot21075 said:


> Here is a video on how to incorporate Kato Unitrack with Flex Track using the Kato adapter piece.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fE_lx8MBTAY


Kato also had its own flexible track now, too.

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## nsmustang55ol

My first layout was with KATO track. We just kept relaying it till it was where we wanted it. Our new layout is done with flex because I like the longer sweeping curves. Still using KATO turnouts though. We recycled them from the old layout.


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## traction fan

nsmustang55ol said:


> My first layout was with KATO track. We just kept relaying it till it was where we wanted it. Our new layout is done with flex because I like the longer sweeping curves. Still using KATO turnouts though. We recycled them from the old layout.



Nice work  

Traction Fan


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## Aqualungs

traction fan said:


> Nice work
> 
> Traction Fan


Right I second that! 

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