# Turnout switch



## ChopperCharles (Jan 3, 2012)

Are there switches out there with less curvature, so I can make a turnout that's close beside a straight line of track? I want to use it to store a spare locomotive and cars, but my shelf is only 7" wide. I don't really want to cut down a stock switch, but I will if I have to...

Charles.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Maybe aftermarket such as GarGraves or Ross.


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## ChopperCharles (Jan 3, 2012)

after looking at the alternatives, I think I'm going to cut down a stock switch. However, I do have one question.... if I cut down a manual switch, can I put electric guts in it later? Or will I have to cut down an electric switch too, if I ever want to replace it?

Charles.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

ChopperCharles said:


> after looking at the alternatives, I think I'm going to cut down a stock switch. However, I do have one question.... if I cut down a manual switch, can I put electric guts in it later? Or will I have to cut down an electric switch too, if I ever want to replace it?
> 
> Charles.


That's a good question. I never saw a switch that was cutdown, and then had the powered guts installed.


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

Charles, a better idea might be to just buy one of each. The manual switches, particulary, are fairly cheap. Assuming you were going to cut one down, why not cut down the manual one and then use it as a template for the electric one's modifications? It would really be a lot less work. I just bought a set (pair) of electric switches at a train show, a good clean set that had good switches and plenty of wire for $29. Is it worth the labor to fabricate all that conversion when you can buy both a manual and an electric for less than that?


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## ChopperCharles (Jan 3, 2012)

Well, I cut the switch down and it works flawlessly. It's manual... it wasn't a particularly difficult modification, except that I soldered a rail to it and had to shorten the rail I attached to it. This was difficult without a good track cutting saw. Made do with a cheap mostly dull hacksaw 

I actually left the plastic alone, and just cut the rails, then attached a standard 19" curve to it, which I then also cut shorter so as to make a parallel line 2" away from the main line. Going to have to do it again for the other side of the turnout, but this is the only AF switch I have right now. Time for another trip to the hobby store...

Charles.


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## ChopperCharles (Jan 3, 2012)

I didn't take photos before I installed it, and i don't have a wide enough angle to get a good above shot on this. So this is the best I can do for now!

If you zoom in and look, you can see that I cut the track pretty close to the frog, and then mated it to a piece of 19" curved track. I soldered the curved piece to the existing track... there wasn't much left of the frog piece, and it needed some extra support. Since the curved piece no longer follows the original design, the track is left unsupported on the switch platform. If you look closely, you'll see I drilled holes and hammered nails in to attach the track securely. Basically, I used railroad spikes! 

There's also a pic of the main line (on the right with the steamer) and the siding. This is just the start of the layout! I've only laid what you see there so far. 

Charles.


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

Nice job, Charles! Have you given any thought to how you are going to power that siding? The switch is half the project; powering the siding to move your train in and out is the other half.

Best wishes with it,


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Powering it should be easy, if he used the connections that came with the original piece of turn out.


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## ChopperCharles (Jan 3, 2012)

Why is this difficult? I have two transformers, I was just going to run one to the siding, one to the main line. 

Charles.


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

ChopperCharles said:


> Why is this difficult? I have two transformers, I was just going to run one to the siding, one to the main line.
> 
> Charles.


Charles, that's the perfect answer---I just wanted to make sure your train didn't blast through the bumper at the end of the siding! Also, if you haven't done it yet, you need to replace the metal pins with nylon pins to keep the two circuits seperate.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

ChopperCharles said:


> Why is this difficult? I have two transformers, I was just going to run one to the siding, one to the main line.
> 
> Charles.


You should have already a small,gray switch button on your switch that says "1, 2 train operation". By using the 2 train option, you automatically cut the power to the siding, enabling you to park an engine there, when the switch frog is in the siding direction. In 1 train operation, both sides of the switch will be powered. If all your original electrical connections have been put back into original position, that 1 train, 2 train button will still function. You will not need 2 transformers.


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