# Help buying a used Loco



## Rook (Nov 5, 2017)

Am ready to buy a second locomotive. Looking for something other than Bachmann. A diesel with DCC. Should be in working order. Something I can learn to work on, and tinker with. Thinking used 

The question is how much to spend? 

Found this on ebay but no idea if it is a fair deal? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Athearn-Ge...756584?hash=item3d50eda4e8:g:p3kAAOSwH2VaHgsi

An Atlas https://www.ebay.com/itm/ATLAS-HO-8...201233?hash=item4670fae3d1:g:WmoAAOSwxBdZfRWk

Here is a NIB, https://www.ebay.com/itm/HO-Athearn...ad-7311-NIB-/112125891978?hash=item1a1b39558a

Which way to go. I like the GP locos with 4 wheel set. Popular brands are usually easier to get parts for. Thoughts and comments appreciated.

Guess the GP15 was a fair deal because when I tested the link it came up SOLD already this morning. Anyway you guys know what I am looking for.

Thxs


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Good running locomotives*



Rook said:


> Am ready to buy a second locomotive. Looking for something other than Bachmann. A diesel with DCC. Should be in working order. Something I can learn to work on, and tinker with. Thinking used
> 
> The question is how much to spend?
> 
> ...


Rook;

This answer is going to be rather general for two reasons. First I have not modeled in HO-scale for many years,(I'm an N-scale modeler) and second, I'm not an E-bay user. From just glancing at E-bay occasionally, I've noticed that the prices are often very low. If the SP GP-40 was DCC equipped, then the price was good. If not, it would seem a bit high, for E-bay anyway. A moot point now, since its gone.:laugh:

As for general recommendations, Athern has been making decent quality HO-scale locos for decades, hard to go wrong with Athern. They were good thirty years ago, and they are better now. 

Atlas locos vary in quality. Some of their old ones were dogs, but newer Atlas can be excellent runners. Some Atlas locomotives have mechanisms that are actually made by Kato. This Japanese company is famous for excellent quality. I own many of their N-scale locomotives and they are all great, in my opinion. Kato also makes some HO-scale locomotives under their own brand name.

Intermountain, and Stewart, are also well-regarded brands of HO-scale locomotives. Both companies have used Kato drives in some of their locos.

Actually, you may find that nearly any model locomotive made in the last 5-10 years will run well. There has been tremendous improvement in running quality in recent years. 
You said you wanted factory installed DCC. I don't know if you want sound also. Many factory installed DCC decoders do not have sound. The reason is cost. A dc loco will be cheaper than a DCC loco, and a loco with both DCC and sound will be the most expensive of the three options. Beyond that the price differences are usually based on the amount of fine detail the locomotive comes with. 
That's about all I can tell you. I'll leave more advice to those with more recent HO-scale experience. 

Good Hunting;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## GNfan (Jun 3, 2016)

Be aware that if that Athearn is an "in the Blue Box" it's a kit - the railings are unpainted wire you have to paint and attach; and you also have to attach some unpainted detail parts like the horn and bell.


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## DavefromMD (Jul 25, 2013)

Just a word of warning in buying model train items, particularly locomotives, on ebay. My rule of thumb is if the person doesn't seem to know anything about model trains, I won't buy it. I've been burned once on that. One way to tell is if that is all they sell, they most likely know what they are selling. If they sell a bunch of other stuff, chances are they are selling estate sale finds and don't know anything about what they have.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

If cost is your principal criterion, you'll get what you pay for.

If cost and serviceability are joint criteria, you'll still get what you pay for.

If cost, serviceability, and return policy are joint criteria, you'll also still get what you pay for.

If cost, serviceability, return policy, and the length of solid history as a seller are joint criteria............you get the idea.

Long way of saying we can't really help you since WE don't know anything about those things any more than you do. That's why some call it EvilBay. Ya pays yer bucks and ya takes yer chances. About the only relief you have is your credit card's warranty on all your on-line purchases, or in eBay's policy that might protect you if the item were falsely declared and described.


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

The best way to shop for a used locomotive is to go to a local hobby shop that sells used, or a local train show; both places will allow you to see hands-on, test it, examine it, etc. Something you'll never be able to do on the internet....

But, you may not have those methods available to you, so all I can do is wish you good luck in finding your locomotive....


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I think the other guys have given you sound advice.

If cost is your only object, eBay might not be a bad source. But I would caution an inexperienced buyer against shopping for locos on eBay. Too many ways things can go wrong.

Be especially careful of "NIB" listings. I bought one, only to find that "NIB" meant, "the box hasn't been opened but it's been sitting in someone's inventory for many, many years."

As traction fan said, no one company right now consistently puts out dogs or gems. A higher price point usually means more features or detail, not necessarily better quality. Overall, a fairly recent (see my caveat above) production model is highly likely to be a good runner. Certainly, Atlas and Athearn would be in that category, but you really have no way of knowing if it really is new production.


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

CTValleyRR said:


> As traction fan said, no one company right now consistently puts out dogs or gems. A higher price point usually means more features or detail, not necessarily better quality. Overall, a fairly recent (see my caveat above) production model is highly likely to be a good runner. Certainly, Atlas and Athearn would be in that category, but you really have no way of knowing if it really is new production


Well, he did say he wants help in buying a "*used*" loco (see thread title), so that puts the new locos out of it.....

As regards buying a "used" loco, I still say other than actually seeing it/holding it/testing it.......it'll be a crap-shoot at best....


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Old_Hobo said:


> Well, he did say he wants help in buying a "*used*" loco (see thread title), so that puts the new locos out of it.....
> 
> As regards buying a "used" loco, I still say other than actually seeing it/holding it/testing it.......it'll be a crap-shoot at best....


True, true. I lost the bubble on that one.


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## EForbes (Dec 1, 2017)

Old_Hobo said:


> The best way to shop for a used locomotive is to go to a local hobby shop that sells used, or a local train show; both places will allow you to see hands-on, test it, examine it, etc. Something you'll never be able to do on the internet....
> 
> But, you may not have those methods available to you, so all I can do is wish you good luck in finding your locomotive....


My local hobby shop is a joke compared to online used, they want more than new for used 6 year old locomotives. If you use ebay, just look at the seller rating and see if they offer returns. It is easy and i only buy my locomotives there. 25 strong and all perfect. Most good Hobby Shops sell on Ebay. Mountain Subdivision is amazing and offers free programming on loksound.


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## Kadotus (Oct 28, 2016)

Another thing to consider is how much/what kind of tinkering you are wanting to do. 
The range of "tinkering" is huge. Tinkering could vary from cleaning a little grime off the wheels, up to stripping the loco down to a pile of parts and rebuilding. The needs of your warranty/return policy (and the price that comes with it) can change significantly based on what you are planning to do.


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

Again, "used" locos will not likely have a warranty on them.....I think the warranty applies to a new locomotive, purchased by the original owner (but I may be corrected on that)....


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## EForbes (Dec 1, 2017)

Are you guys experiencing a lot of warranty work, i have been playing with trains off and on since the 70s and have yet to need to return a loco for warranty work, and i own all brands. Athearn, BLI, scaletrains all seem fine new or used, not alot to mess up. I have however had to send back several loksound decoders for warranty service.


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## Kadotus (Oct 28, 2016)

I was just trying to be fairly broad, I think the newest locomotive I own is the toy Bachmann I bought in the 80s.
Many ebay sellers have a non-DOA clause, which is what a used locomotive buyer may be looking for. Warranty is obviously the wrong word to use in this reference.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

I've bought two used locomotives on eBay over the years...
Both were at bargain prices, and both needed work to either look or run right. But they're fine now.
I did get what I paid for, but I can't say I haven't been lucky.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I've bought 5 used Bachmann diesel locos over
the years. The first two came with factory 
DCC, the others I updated with Digitrax decoders.

All have been trouble free, good runners and
very good pullers.

I'd recommend that you are sure of the manufacture
date. If it's in the last 10 or so years you'll likely
have a good loco. The most likely problems will
be clogged or cracked gears. A good cleaning is
often all that is needed.

If you go to a train show there is always a test
track set up for all scales. The vendors usually
permit you to test a loco on it.

A good thing to take with you to a train show or
to see a used loco is a 9 volt battery. It will let
you see how well the loco runs.

Don


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## Rook (Nov 5, 2017)

Ended up with this little Athearn GP35. Think it is from 2006.

Doubt I'll buy from that seller again. Set it on the track and booted the EZ Command. One headlight came on...lol. The board got hot quickly. One of the pickup wires was hanging loose. Thought I'd find specs for the loco, light board, and the decoder. So far not that easy to do. Have not done any testing. Need some wire and alligator clips to see if the motor will turn. Turns out I need a lot of stuff including a command system Don't even have a 9v battery

Shouldn't the wire color sequence from my photos match the the decoder instruction sheet?
http://www.digitrax.com/media/apps/products/mobile-decoders/dh163d/documents/DH163D.pdf

I'm exhausted reading and shopping trains but it feels like movement is happening....won't say progress yet.


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## deedub35 (Jan 29, 2014)

Looks like you picked up a DCC ready loco. This one here ...

http://www.athearn.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ATH94208

The previous owner installed the Digitrax decoder into the factory harness. With that said, the colours of the wires may be different.

The black wire that is disconnected is a quick solder job.

What did you pay for it?


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## EForbes (Dec 1, 2017)

That is a newer board attached to an older loco. The rear wire needs to go to ground, it cant got to track tab because those old athearns have both tabs going to the same rail. I usually drill and tap for a screw, or you can directly solder to the opposite truck and should be good to go. From the pick it looks as though there may be a ground wire on the front of the board, if that's the case you wouldn't require the rear wire at all. But i can't tell from the pic.


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## rickbz28 (Jan 10, 2016)

deedub35 is correct.The loose wire needs to be soldered to the top of the truck.That setup is very common on Athearn RTR DCC ready locos.The motors on those are isolated and there is a ground wire screwed to the frame. Digitrax.com will have info on the decoder for you.If you want to replace the non-working bulbs they are available from Athearn as part number G63843 although that is a Genesis part number it is what Athearn used. Available direct from Athearn or on ebay.


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## Rook (Nov 5, 2017)

Yes that is the Athearn link. Buy It Now price was $70. 

Why is the board getting so hot...what is normal operating range? I agree the previous owner had the loose wire connected to the raised pickup. There is a ground coming from the left end of the board the tab nearest the camera connected to the frame. The board says COMPONENT RTR DCC/LAMP BD. Shouldn't there be some documentation for the board?


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## LV 601 (Oct 25, 2009)

I've bought my fair share of locomotives on Ebay and train shows and have had a few problems but for the most made out OK. I suggest buying a quality locomotive like Kato at a train show and hopefully you'll find a test track there to try it out. The Kato's will run you a little more money but they are worth it in the long run. Good Luck


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## EForbes (Dec 1, 2017)

Kato has good running engines but bad looking details like railing. You can basically rebuild an entire Athearn no matter what is wrong with it for the price of a Kato. Talking used here.


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## deedub35 (Jan 29, 2014)

Rook said:


> Yes that is the Athearn link. Buy It Now price was $70.
> 
> Why is the board getting so hot...what is normal operating range? I agree the previous owner had the loose wire connected to the raised pickup. There is a ground coming from the left end of the board the tab nearest the camera connected to the frame. The board says COMPONENT RTR DCC/LAMP BD. Shouldn't there be some documentation for the board?


Can’t comment about the temp.

The literature you would get if it was new would be an exploded view parts diagram and a warranty card. New out of the box there would be a dummy plug where the decoder is so that it can run on a DC layout. As such there is no need for documentation for the PC board because there’s nothing you can do with it in regards to settings, programming, etc.


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## Rook (Nov 5, 2017)

Removed the circuit board and the motor spins enthusiastically in both directions when connected to an 18v drill battery for a few seconds. Drive wheels spin as well. Not sure what else I can do without a controller. 

Its a coin flip between the Power Cab and the Power Pro. 2amp vs 5amp. Power Pro should be able to light a few structures, operate several switches and signals as well as pull a couple trains if I ever get that far. Power Pro has a 9 pin serial connector. Wonder if that means the usb connection is not an option?


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Rook

Your DCC controller, regardless of power, should ONLY
be used to power your tracks. Turnout motors, lighting
and other accessories should have one or more separate power
supplies. Many of us obtain used wall warts for those
purposes. Each will have a label describing it's power
output: Voltage, AC or DC, and amperage. 

Don


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## EForbes (Dec 1, 2017)

DonR said:


> Rook
> 
> Your DCC controller, regardless of power, should ONLY
> be used to power your tracks. Turnout motors, lighting
> ...


I agree, i use old tyco transformers for all my lighting and switches and they can be had for cheap on ebay, bought 2 this year.


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