# Anybody Restore/Repair AC Gilberts?



## THE TYCO MAN

I have a American Flyer #283 4-6-2 in need of serious help! I though I could bring it back to life, but, made worse! Needs usual stuff and other odd and ends. Who has a good referal for a mechanic or a know-it-all/fix-it-right type of person?


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## Kwikster

How do you mean "made it worse"? What were the original symptoms? What did you attempt on it? Very likely it's something you can do yourself with a bit of guidance. Overall the older loco's (Lionel, AF and Marx) are fairly simple.

Carl


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## Wicked_Silence

Give the guys on the forum a chance to help ya with this. I knew nothing about S scale engines and they helped me get my American Flyer Royal Blue back into running order.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Tyco -- Below are some online reference links that will help you to find, disassemble and identify parts. Basically, replace any worn parts with new and clean throughly any dirt, gunk, grease, etc. from the gears, linkage, wheels, etc. Do not remove the wheels unless necessary for repair. There should be no need to do so when attempting routine servicing. The linkage may be removed to perform maintenance, but be sure to remember or create a list/sketch where each part belongs. The commuter should be refaced as well. This would be the copper disk on the rear of the commute. Chuck the gear portion in an electric hand drill and gently rub some 2000 grit sandpaper over it while it turns. Use contact cleaner to get out any dirt, dust, debris...be sure to get into the slots between the copper plates with a toothpick or other similar item. New brushes and springs for this motor are cheap -- $3.00 maybe plus S/H -- also be sure to examine the reverse unit for any dirt, dust, etc. If it sticks, spray it generously with contact cleaner and keep working it to keep it moving freely. The rotating drum inside of it needs those copper surfaces clean and shiny too. The fingers on each side of the reverse unit may be burned, bent or dirty which can cause issues and non-function. As these are also cheap -- $3.00 plus S/H -- I would just replace them and avoid the headache of cleaning/adjusting them. There are plenty of good sources for servicing AF steam locos on the internet. But one of my favs is Portlines Hobby. Go to that website and on the left side of the page, you will find On-Line American Flyer Repair Clinics. Go there and select the ones you need to review to service or replace these parts. If you need further assistance, I or others here will gladly step in to help with more info. BTW - Portlines is my choice for replacement parts. All of the ones mentioned above will run you about $10 including the standard $6 S/H.


http://myflyertrains.org/gallery/album209/283_1
http://myflyertrains.org/gallery/album209/283_2_002
http://myflyertrains.org/gallery/album209/283_3
http://myflyertrains.org/gallery/album209/283_4


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## T-Man

Just make sure it is the engine. I had track and transformer issues. The engines were ok.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Tyco -- You may also wish to check the links under the first thread in the "S" Scale section entitled " S Scale and American Flyer Information Resource sites". There are many useful links listed there (a couple of which I included in a previous post to you) that will help you as well.


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## Kwikster

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> T Chuck the gear portion in an electric hand drill and gently rub some 2000 grit sandpaper over it while it turns. Use contact cleaner to get out any dirt, dust, debris...be sure to get into the slots between the copper plates with a toothpick or other similar item.


NBF, I agreed with everything else you said except the sandpaper. I'd use green or white Scothbrite pads instead. You can leave behind sanding particles even with a thorough cleaning. Just my 2 cents here.

Carl


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## THE TYCO MAN

Just usual repairs that most postwar engines need. I don;t have the know-how or time really! I'm use to HO and N.


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## Wicked_Silence

Give these guys a chance Tyco. If you check a few posts down, I have an American Flyer Royal Blue that I picked up and the guys were very helpful in getting it running by talking me thru the stuff. Its relatively easy as long as you take your time and pay attention to what your doing.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Tyco -- You will have to invest the time if you want to try this project. My suggestion is to review the drawings, parts lists, photos, and other infiormation that has been provided as well as going online and doing searches for American Flyer parts, repair, servicing in order to become familiar with what you have and to see what you might expect to find. Then decide if you wish to invest the time and money to actually do the project or pass it off to someone else. Quite frankly, a normal, complete servicing can be done in an evening or two and is very easy to accomplish.


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## Stillakid

TYCO MAN, send me the engine and tender and I'll return it in running condition. NO CHARGE!


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## Aflyer

Stillakid,
What a great offer, I thought about making Tycoman that same offer, but was afraid I would get it here, and not be able to finish it in a timely manner. Keep the trains rolling!!
Aflyer:thumbsup:


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## flyernut

Does anyone know how this panned out?? If you still need help, I'll also do it free of charge...


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## imatt88

What a gernerous offer. I'm glad I joined this forum

Cheers, Ian


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## flyernut

imatt88 said:


> What a gernerous offer. I'm glad I joined this forum
> 
> Cheers, Ian


That's what we're here for my friend... One of my fondest memories of my life was watching my dad set up one of our 4 flyer sets under the Christmas tree in the living room. It was just a 4x8 piece of plywood with a lot of plasticville structures on it but to me it was the best layout on the planet.The one Dad always set up was the 301, 631, 642, 633 625, 640, and a 638 taking up the rear...To hear someone having trouble with their flyer engine, the very least I can do is to help re-create that wonderful memory that I have of those trains.


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## Lionel2037

Do these offer still stand? Lol I have a 283 that my grandpa gave me in a collection but it needs some work ill post pics that way y'all can check it out. I would like to see it running hopefully. How do I put the side pieces that hold the motor back in? With side linkage on or off?


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## THE TYCO MAN

I tried making it run once more. No luck. Its back on the far back burner right now.


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## daveh219

Tyco...for what it's worth...I too model in different scales - O, S, and HO. I have found that what works with one usually works with the other. I also agree with the previous posters that a little looking and then posting will do wonders. I revived my 283 to a good running machine. Iworked on it...put it down, worked on something else and then came back. Took a total of 2 months but finally got the bugs working out. Granted that was something I like to do but it's up to you. You live close to Jax so I'm sure a quick scan through the phone book or a hobby mag will get you going...


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Tyco -- Why not post a few photos, let us take a look. And describe what it's doing, or not doing. They really are not hard to diagnose and repair.


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## Lionel2037

Here some pics of mine guys hope there is hope for it


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## tjcruiser

I'll defer to our AF guys for tips on the AF mechanics.

As for the broken shell in way of the screw hole mount ... JB Weld is your best friend there. You can build up the broken section .. wrap the epoxy around a toothpick coated in some Vaseline, or wrapped in wax paper. Let it cure, pull out the pick, then clean up hole with drill/tap for the new threads.

If your careful, you should be (nearly) as good as new there.

TJ


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## flyernut

tjcruiser said:


> I'll defer to our AF guys for tips on the AF mechanics.
> 
> As for the broken shell in way of the screw hole mount ... JB Weld is your best friend there. You can build up the broken section .. wrap the epoxy around a toothpick coated in some Vaseline, or wrapped in wax paper. Let it cure, pull out the pick, then clean up hole with drill/tap for the new threads.
> 
> If your careful, you should be (nearly) as good as new there.
> 
> TJ


Even better, get a straw, the kind you drink with, and cut what you need, slitting the straw up it's side, and removing a small piece at a time until it matches the broken post circumference.Fill in with J.B. Weld, let dry over-night, and finish it off with a dremel and a drill.. Stay away from the epoxies as they don't seem to get the job done, ( I know).Your engine seems to be missing the crossheads,( part # PA10888, you'll need 2), and the front leading trucks. This is a nice little engine that runs great, ( I have 3 ). You should be able to find all the parts to fix it. Some of the parts will inter-change with Atlantics. Yours is a Pacific.


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## flyernut

Lionel2037 said:


> Do these offer still stand? Lol I have a 283 that my grandpa gave me in a collection but it needs some work ill post pics that way y'all can check it out. I would like to see it running hopefully. How do I put the side pieces that hold the motor back in? With side linkage on or off?


I usually put it back together with all the linkages off.Do you have all the pieces for it?? I'm waiting on a project engine shell from Ian, and when I get done with that, I'll be happy to take a look at it. I might have most of the pieces here to fix it...


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## tjcruiser

I like the straw-on-the-outside as a mold, Nut ... good idea!

TJ


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## flyernut

tjcruiser said:


> I like the straw-on-the-outside as a mold, Nut ... good idea!
> 
> TJ


Yep, it works great!! Just use J.B.Weld for the filling. It stands up better. I've used this trick several times, and it never fails.


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## tjcruiser

Do you leave the straw, afterwards, or can it be easily peeled off of the cured Weld? (Assuming it's a plastic straw.)

TJ


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## AFnewbie

*wobbly drive wheel*

While on the DIY repair theme, I'd appreciate some wheel advice. I have one wobbly drive wheel on my 336 Northern. The other drive wheel turns true. I tried tightening C-clamps on the outer parts of the wheel to squeeze the wheels into alignment, but it doesn't seem to help, and I'm afraid to apply too much pressure. I'd really like to avoid taking these wheels completely off. Any suggestions? 
Thanks, Paul M


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Lionel -- The other guys here have offered a good suggestion for repairing that broken screw hole. I do know others have used that method with great success. As far as the other items I can see, it seems you will need a new tender or, at the very least, a new tender body shell. This should be easily obtained on eBay or at a local train show. Obviously you will need a rear truck assembly to replace the one that's missing -- again, try eBay. You might find an entire tender that can either replace yours or be used as parts to repair yours. The engine itself seems to be in pretty good shape considering everything. Just fix that screw hole, obtain some missing parts, clean and lube her and she should be chugging around in no time.

AFnewbie -- I have no clue since this is territory I've never been before. Is the axle bent by chance? Or is the wheel simply pressed on at an angle?


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## tjcruiser

Wobbly wheel ...

I get those on my old Lionels quite often. Options ...

1. remove wheels, straighten axles, reinstall.

2. Put a flathead screwdriver between the flange of the wheel and the motor sideplate, at the "low spot" of the misaligned wheel. Push screwdriver to induce some outward pressure on the wheel. Move screwdrive a bit to the left / right of the true low spot, and repeat. There is some risk to this method ... wheels are often brittle and could crack. But most times, you can coax the wheel into better (if not perfect) alignment.

< Insert lawyer disclaimer stuff here ... >

TJ


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## AFnewbie

I initially thought a bent axle would cause both wheels to wobble. Re-thinking, it could be bent only outside the frame, very close to the wheel. If so, it sounds like TJs approach #2 would also address the axle. I'll try that and report back. 

<If it goes really bad, TJ, I'll have my people get in touch with your people...>


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## flyernut

tjcruiser said:


> Do you leave the straw, afterwards, or can it be easily peeled off of the cured Weld? (Assuming it's a plastic straw.)
> 
> TJ


Because of the nature of the plastic, it comes off very easily, and leaves a smooth as satin finish. If you match the same diameter as the original post, and paint it black, you'll never see the repair.


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## flyernut

That wobble might not be that bad as you think. I would try TJ's method also. Just remember that when you squeeze the wheels together, retain the original spacing between flanges. That should be the width of a dime. Axles are available but you must quarter your wheels afterwards.


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## Lionel2037

Hey guys thanks for all the great suggestions I'm gonna work on it this weekend hopefully. I tired turning the wheels and they seem stuck? Also just curious why do I need another tender? Thanks for all the advice guys.


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## AFnewbie

*wobble be gone-*

Thanks guys- TJ's #2 did the trick. Much easier than I thought. No legal action required- 
Paul M


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## flyernut

Lionel2037 said:


> Hey guys thanks for all the great suggestions I'm gonna work on it this weekend hopefully. I tired turning the wheels and they seem stuck? Also just curious why do I need another tender? Thanks for all the advice guys.


In order to turn the wheels, you must turn the armature by hand. Just spin it .


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## tjcruiser

AFnewbie said:


> Thanks guys- TJ's #2 did the trick. Much easier than I thought. No legal action required-
> Paul M


Wheww ...

:thumbsup:


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## Nuttin But Flyer

The only reason I mentioned needing a tender was that in one photo it looked as though yours was buckled or broken. If that was just a mirage in my mind, then by all means use the same tender you have.


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## flyernut

Lionel2037 said:


> Hey guys thanks for all the great suggestions I'm gonna work on it this weekend hopefully. I tired turning the wheels and they seem stuck? Also just curious why do I need another tender? Thanks for all the advice guys.


It appears the tender is warped??? Looks like that to me.


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## Lionel2037

Yeah its warped on just that one side, I think I'm just gonna leave it like that for now. Would it be hard to replace the tuck on the tender?


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## flyernut

Lionel2037 said:


> Yeah its warped on just that one side, I think I'm just gonna leave it like that for now. Would it be hard to replace the tuck on the tender?


Easy peezy on that truck. What you will need, of course, is the truck, and the insulating kit. The kit consists of a rivet, a plastic bushing, and a large plastic washer.Everything available on ebay or PortLine Hobbies. Maybe even the correct tender shell....You can also try the "The Train Tender" for AF parts. I recently purchased 2 of the kits from "T'Ville Train Terminal", hosted by the seller,"alk5". He has everything you need, and is a wonderful seller. I've dealt with him many times in the past, and hopefully in the future.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Likewise, I've expanded my parts inventory through that same seller. Very pleased with his prices and quick service.


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## matpal

Hey guys, I know this is an old thread but I was hoping to find my answer in this on my 283 that is not running. 

Does anyone know what this part is? Could I just substitute it for something that keeps the spring in equally? 

I'm kicking myself that my 283 was running, but I decided to clean it and now it's not and I have damaged it in the process of trying to trouble shoot.


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## flyernut

matpal said:


> Hey guys, I know this is an old thread but I was hoping to find my answer in this on my 283 that is not running.
> 
> Does anyone know what this part is? Could I just substitute it for something that keeps the spring in equally?
> 
> I'm kicking myself that my 283 was running, but I decided to clean it and now it's not and I have damaged it in the process of trying to trouble shoot.


That's called a "brush cap". Part # is PA10754..Easy to get, if you can not find one, I think I have a spare....


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## flyernut

flyernut said:


> That's called a "brush cap". Part # is PA10754..Easy to get, if you can not find one, I think I have a spare....


The Train Tender has them...$1.50 each.


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## matpal

Great, thank you.


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