# Reverse Trolley Kit by Dallee Electronics



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I got lucky and have a chance to assemble a commercial trolley unit. The owner got it at the Big E show and passed it on after seeing te directions. 

My unit only has end to end and is cheep to build. This unit has mutiple stops, momentum breaking, enough capacity to handle G scale too. SO here is a peek on how I mounted it. I had to vary from the directions since their supplied cable was too short. I moved the momentum board to the right.


Here is a link to the company Dallee ELectronics. You have to give them credit.:thumbsup: I am on the verge of testing this out, more to come.

Here is the kit 610 instructions.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Cool, waiting for the video.


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Yeah, but where's the toaster guts, T?!?



Looks like a fun build. Keep us posted on the action.

TJ


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

One toaster gut blew a transistor or capacitor. I just haven't got back to it. 

This is new stuff and I hope it won't end up like the toaster.

I got a fresh supply of batteries so I will work on the requests.:thumbsup:


----------



## broox (Apr 13, 2012)

interdasting.

Good for HO aswell I'm guessing.

I got an idea for this kinda thing on my lauout... it might just work.

one request for testing, how well will it work with a grade on the track?


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

This is a multiple configuration. The momentum braking may work against you with an incline. There are other options for back and forth. Simpler ones. You just have to visit the site. I suppose it could brake for the incline too.

This is set 610.

Here is the instruction for the momentum board. It may be possible to use for an incline. Add time for up and less time for down. It is not for constant use.

Today I rrechecked my connections and color coded the wires that go to the track. Orange left stop. brown right stop. green center bottom rail. blue center rail, red top left and right slow down areas.


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The next step is getting my track section running. I have the diodes installed for HO operation. This unit has enough capacity for G Scale too. The directions recommend a light or resistor at the ends. This supplies a signal to the track boards that the block is occupied. Watch for the light.








When installing the diodes each one must face the same direction on the same rail. Mine both have the band on the right. This determines which side is orange or the brown connection


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Frustrated, I have been looking at directions. Today, I left it on with the engine in the middle and walked away. When I came back the engine derailed at the end. I reversed the end wires, orange and brown. Left the engine in the center and walked away. When I returned the engine was continuously going back and forth. Great, I have Life!!!!!!!!!! The timer must be on zero since the engine is always moving and the reverse sensor works to switch track polarity. The light bulbs work with the boards. I want to film this and then fihgure out my next step. So I have progress.:thumbsup:


----------



## Carl (Feb 19, 2012)

Do you obtain these items from garage sales, second-hand stores, etc, or from train shows and ebay? How do you know the correct price to pay on the older items?


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

This was bought at a train show by someone else. I am just trying to get it to work. The web site shows all the products and prices. I prefer to build simple ones using a schematic. Buying parts in bulk I can make them cheep enough and maybe sell a few. You nedd to learn about this stuff if you want to buy one and that is why I do this. Just to show you what it does. This version is top notch and uses four boarss . There are simpler versions too. Just check the link for Dallee above. Train shows are a great place to ask questions.

Generally I do not spend a lot. I know prices before I buy. I reseach items I am interested and wait until I find one,with an acceptable price. Retail stores have the highest prices. Antique dealers can be high and generally are. I just have been lucky on a few items. Craigslist is probably on the higher end too. These are mostly resalers, some are dealers. I have many in my area, one every 20 miles or so some sell from their homes.

Price is like an opinion, every has one, it's just not the same.


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Update*

The settings can be very frustrating. I lost count of how many times the engines flew off the track. I took a break and called the owner. He is interested in displaying a G Scale set up. It has to be portable. He mentioned You tube but I have not searched there yet.

I did change my test track to a 16 foot O gage. I got the end blocks wired to the correct sides. Orange and Brown. I need to adjust the momentum brake. My track has no positive stop but if I hold the engine at the end the momentum board works and shuts the motor off and readies for the return trip. At least it works back and forth now when I do this. I will have to rig a complete stop using diodes and a light at the ends.
The engine is my trolley DC steamer, well bruised over time and a perfect test engine. The brake takes just a few seconds o work so I hold the engine still for a short time. A longer track section would help but the positive stop will definately work.
My track is two sections on each end a brake/ startup section of four tracks and an eight track run. I may have to rethink these section lengths.



I added a terminal board for ease of installation. Plus I color coded the terminals.


----------



## eljefe (Jun 11, 2011)

This sounded pretty cool at first but seems awfully complicated (and unreliable).


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I started into this cold. I have made my own reverse board and understand the end stops with diodes. I use the same method. Then they use a light to bypass the diode and signal the board the train is there. The light does not support moving the train, so that works. The momentum board is the culprit. Just getting to work on a length of track. No distance was ever suggested by the company directions are weak for this board. After all I am trying to use three boards at once. I would of preferred to matter the timer a the set/reset first , but this is for a customer. Anything that is read here will obviously help someone else.

One drawback is understanding the LED lights on the boards. They don't tell me much. I cannot add a light signal to the track either. The boards read this as a train on the block. A directional light was helpful in figuring out a reverse unit.

So far I have only used the companies directions. They do have videos at you tube.

Now I will regroup and redo my test track and readjust the block sizes and add a diode stop at the ends.


----------



## Carl (Feb 19, 2012)

That is just amassing.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Sounds like they made this sucker too complicated for it's own good.


----------



## Carl (Feb 19, 2012)

John, anything electrical device beyond a toaster is beyond my electrical capability.


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

John, it what makes the non TMCC world turn. If anything it is their directions. I would think their customers would have very little experience with electronics. I set it up to their map. Anything about operation is vague. Applications for their momentum board would of helped.


----------



## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Carl, I'm with you, except toasters might be a little out of my league. But I still try to learn more by reading these posts, hopefully osmosis will cary information into my brain! T- man instructions on anything these days are far from helpful( I usually toss them). , I know you'll figure it out and probably add improvements!


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I've been an engineer longer than I like to admit. A vast majority of engineers hate to document, which is part of the problem.  We like to design and build...


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I had to read the statement twice. You forgot a comma after T-man. I hope. 

Anyway I did find the info I wanted on the potentiometer ( the adjustment dials) and with diodes on each end, I got it to work today. :thumbsup:

This is really neat stuff, it takes some patience. Once it is set up the work is done and all the train has to do is stop and run.


----------



## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Sorry T-man, yes I forgot the comma. I laughed pretty hard after reading it they way you did at first! Sorry, I post on my phone and the autocorect screws up things. Especially names. There is an extra punctuation later in the paragraph, though I don't think that helps! I had to read it 3 times before I saw it the way you did! Sorry man!


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

It was good for a laugh.

A toaster is complicated, today they have an electronic latch that can be used as a block signal. I have one on the self it blew up something but I did get it to work once before.


With 5 amp diodes it should be ok for G scale. How about bulbs? What voltage do they use. Will 14.4 be fine?? I need the lamps on each end as resistors to signal the circuit.


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Dallee Videos*

Well I went to You Tube and watched a few videos they produced. I t reads like my history in electronics. A 12 volt filtered power supply. Led lights in cars and a reverse unit. Theirs is mass produced and professionally made. Mine just works, usually. They did have some electronic reverse units too. 

They are ahead of me on track detection. I am using a Paisley circuit with updated optioisolaters. If I ever find the time. 

I wonder how much more of this type of work I will see. The owner of this unit was overwhelmed by the complexity which is where I fit in. I am really getting interested to see this thing work a G scale set outside. 

The videos commented on the ease of their directions. Considering I warped and tackled one of their more complex items, I did not do too badly. I probably would of understood more if I worked with one board at a time and not on group of four.


They do look cool laid out. I have seen Digitrax wiring on other layouts, that resembles what I did. It gave me some inspiration. 

The next step is to wire the G Scale Track sections.


----------



## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Progress!


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

This is the G scale link. I get to set up the actual train for a display this fall. I still owe a video. My next step is to wire the track sections.


----------

