# Moving to HO, Some Brand Guidance Please



## BowtieMan (Jul 14, 2014)

Hi, im sorry if this is a beaten subject on here but here goes! 

Now you see the reason i chose this title for this thread. I know there are many manufacturers and probably ten times as many opinions

I am migrating from N scale to HO and have a few questions. In N scale there are a few manufacturers kind of considered as "Caddillacs" of the scale. Microtrains, red caboose etc. what are the better manufacturers of rolling stock and locomotives in HO? Im already a Kato fan but would love to hear some opinions from the group. I am more interested in modern deisel and modern intermodal operations including auto racks, tanker cars, well or stack cars, coil cars and other industry specific type cars. I have a railroad fetish for auto racks and want the most realistic looking cars available in this particular category. 

Which leads me to couplers. I am sure someone can link me to a thread or 40 on this topic. While reliability is a given, compatibility is also a concern. Before i start spending any money i would like to know what works with what the best. Are most HO couplers prototypical or, as in N scale, too big for the cars? I prefer knuckle and cannot stand rapido style couplers.

I have a digitrax zephyr and was easily able to run 6-8 locomotives at one time (some in consist) with no noticable drop in power. Will this controller be able to handle 3-6 HO locomotives at once? Obviously DCC but i think i will lean towards DCC with sound for most lcomotives. I particularly like the sd80-90 ac4400 style 6 axle lcomotives. A lcomotive can't be "too modern" for my liking. 

I have a room that i will be able to dedicate an area of about 10x14 feet to a layout. I am more interested in continuous running with a desire to have an intermodal yard (inland), a tanker loading facility, a representation of a town and an area dedicated to mountainous type scenery. With the size HO takes up, is this a realistic expectation for the room i have? I have the option to go vertical with a second level but would like to try and avoid that at this point. 

I "think" i want to use atlas code 83 track. I was using atlas code 55 in N scale becuse i could not stand the look of trains sitting on a code 80 track. I enjoy the photography aspect of model railroading and would like to keep my pictures within the believable range. I also like to see prototypical tie spacing. I am considering doing a section in concrete ties. 

I hand laid my code 55 turnouts but at this point i have no desire to hand lay any more. Are atlas code 83 turnouts reliable? Realistic? Durable? If so or not I would also love to read some debate on this topic. Turnout control for me would most likely be manually by hand. (Caboose groundthrows or another option).

I am sure i have more questions but these are the burning ones. I really would appreciate any discussion of these topics.


----------



## mustangcobra94 (Apr 28, 2014)

well, athearn , and the upscale atlas are good. most people like peco turnouts. and atlas flex track . hand laid code 55 turnouts, wow! that's good.


----------



## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

Better manufacturers of H.O. rolling stock, IMHO, are:

Intermountain
Atlas
Athearn
Walthers Proto line
Proto 2000 (became Walthers Proto)
Red Caboose
True Line Trains
Rapido
Accurail

As for knuckle couplers, Kadee are the best (metal); # 5's are good but a tad big, # 58's are more to scale, and there are others for different applications with longer or shorter shafts, offset high and low, etc.....


----------



## golfermd (Apr 19, 2013)

You have petty much guessed there is a lot of personal opinion and experience out here. I'll give you a few of my thoughts and experiences.

I understand your Cadillac and Ford thoughts. I buy a lot of older rolling stock kits that I can paint and decal/detail myself. In addition to older kits I have purchased kits from Accurail (fairly decent amount of detail), and Funaro and Camerlengo kits (highly detailed and complex). I also buy them undecorated so I can paint and decal accurately. The latter kits don't come with trucks or coupler hardware. Having said that there are some highly detailed ready-to-run rolling stock manufacturers out there. One question you need to ask when it comes to detailing is how much detailing makes sense to you? Are you building rolling stock to enter into competitions? Or do you want to run those cars on a railroad? If you want to run them on a railroad how much damage are you willing to live with? Cars fall off the layout, tables, hands, etc.,... Also, how much detail are you going to actually see as it goes by coupled to other cars at speed?

Kaydee is the standard for HO couplers. #5 and #148 (#5 with whiskers) are the predominant coupler models.

One item you didn't address was wheels. Metal wheels are almost a must if your train will be moving more than rarely. Plastic wheels tend to leave gunk on the tracks over time. You'll be cleaning your track and driver wheels all the time. I use Intermountain wheels. When I get new rolling stock I immediately replace the plastic wheels. The one negative about metal wheels is the chance of shorting on turnouts under certain circumstances.

I am going to be using code 83 flextrack on my layout. I don't have the fine motor control in my hands to hand lay track or turnouts. All the visible track at my club is hand laid code 100. One of our members is a master modeler. Some of his work has been displayed in Model Railroader. I'm the antithesis of that. :laugh:

There are several sub-forums that various parts of this thread would be better venues for some discussions. The layout and/or layout design would be a great place to ask questions about the specifics for the layout. The structures for the obvious reasons. There is one on detailing which might answer your rolling stock questions.

If you don't already have one I highly recommend that you get a good quality airbrush with a compressor. There is no substitute for one. It can be used on rolling stock and parts of the layout (including structures).

Good luck with your transition...

Dan


----------



## BowtieMan (Jul 14, 2014)

Thank you for the responses so far! I appreciate it!

Mustang, I will add those to the list. I am not sure about the peco turnouts. IN N scale they weren't very proto looking. ALthough the general consensus was they were very reliable. 

TY Hobo, I will also add those to things to explore. I haven't had a chance to peruse the HO selection at my LHS yet to see the main differences but will do so next trip. I appreciate the tip on the Kadee couplers. Good to know. 

Golfer, thank you for your response. You do raise some good points that I did not address and have intentions to but will do so in the correct area. 
I am not by ANY means a rivet counter so appearance to me, on any car other than an auto rack, is inconsequential. If it looks decent rolling along or can represent a train in a still shot, I am pretty happy with it. I have no desire to build kits. I want to purchase RTR stock when the time comes. After hand painting the windshield wipers on an N scale locomotive and the beak of an N scale chicken, I have decided that I want to be able to "Plug-N-Play" so to speak. Enough detailing for me is a convincing shot of a particular scene that doesn't have the plastic "toy" shine in it. 
I have to ask though, what is a #5 with whiskers??…LOL!!
I will probably go with metal wheel sets from the onset mainly for the reasons you noted. I used to hate the sound of metal wheel sets but have learned to love it. Thanks for bringing it up. 
I do understand that concern with hand laying. I kind of took it up on a whim and am very glad I did because it made me really understand how a turnout works but will be going with prefab in HO. Not sure if it will let me post a pic because I am a Newb but here is a shot of a #5 I did. 










I already have an airbrush and a compressor but to be honest, I am more reaching a phase with modeling that I want to be able to toss it on the layout and be done. I get much more enjoyment out of seeing trains run that I do building/weathering/counting rivets/worrying about proto stuff. Make sense?

Again, thank you all for the responses and I hope more members chime in!


----------



## mustangcobra94 (Apr 28, 2014)

i'm with you i want to see trains run. besides after a while you can always go back and work on the details


----------



## golfermd (Apr 19, 2013)

A #5 coupler needs to have a brass box with a built in spring attachment to keep the coupler arm centered when it isn't coupled. The #148 has 2 little whiskers built into the coupler eliminating the need to for the special box. These little whiskers act as the #5 spring. I buy mine in packages of 50 on eBay.


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Ain't it great to have so much experience to call on when
you need it. The Forum guys always come through
with helpful information as you can see.

You will probably end up with a plethora of brands.
It'll depend a lot on what loco you want on your
layout and who makes it. Some are made by
several companies, others made by only one. Every
loco maker has failures, there are no absolutes.

I want to add, check out Bachmann Spectrum HO rolling
stock. They are finely detailed and locos come with
DCC and sound installed when so marked.
I have 7 Bachmann DCC locos and so far have
had no problems with any of them. They also
have an excellent repair and replacement program
with timely service.

Sound is am amp hog, so you may want to add
a booster to your Digitrax if you have many sound
HO locos.

While they may have a more Euro look, Peco Insulfrog
HO turnouts are the very best for smooth running
without derailing. I have 20 or so and have never
had a turnout caused derailment, can't say that about
the careless switchman though. Mine are code 100 matched
to Atlax code 100 flex track. If you go with Peco, some
prefer Peco flex because there is a small mismatch
of Peco/Atlas rail height.

I prefer the Kadee #148 with the whisker centering
springs. It's easier to presassemble with it's snap
in draft box top. 

I have mixed feelings about Kadee HO trucks. They ride
on tiny springs and the side frames flex to give a
form of independent suspension. The trucks run
very good and look good. But they are pesky to
rerail, and sometimes when the sideframes flex
the wheels fall out.

Don


----------



## BowtieMan (Jul 14, 2014)

Yes Don, it is absolutely wonderful to have these resources at our fingertips!

When I started in N scale I started by just gathering lots of stuff on eBay. What a mistake that was! After I was a few hundred dollars and a few months in, I realized the quality of the different manufacturers. I started collecting higher end items that suited my needs.
I am going to take a trip to my local hobby shop and speak with them about quality and look at some of the different manufacturers.

Thanks for the tip on the turnouts. I will definitely check out PECO. I just did a quick search and I found that they do offer a code 83 also, I would like to stay with the smaller rail.

I will also do some checking into the couplers that are offered in HO scale. Reliability will be my biggest determining factor. 

I will also check into a power booster for my control system

I'm really looking forward to getting something started and HO scale. N scale is just a little bit too small for my hands and eyes. I love it but I need to work with something that I can see and hold a little easier.

Thank you for the responses so far! I look forward to exploring this new chapter of my model railroading hobby.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I have cleaned up the thread and given it a more appropriate title. Please try to play nice guys.


----------



## BowtieMan (Jul 14, 2014)

Thank you admin and i apologize for the confusion. I will be sure to clearly state my objectives from here on out. 

So i am curious, will peco code 83 turnouts mate up to atlas code 83 flex? Are there any modifications that need to be made? If so could anyone explain please.


----------



## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

Mumble grumble...... :laugh:


----------



## jesteck (Apr 15, 2014)

I never experienced any serious difficulty mixing the two in code 100, so don't see any reason to anticipate any in code 83. The difference seems to be mainly in a different joiner design; the Atlas is a sort of loose open-top triangle that grips the sides of the rail, while PECO is more of a coil on either side that grips the rail at its base a bit more tightly. They're a bit harder to push onto the track than the Atlas, but both work well- especially if you solder your track. No modification should be necessary.


----------



## JerryH (Nov 18, 2012)

Mixing Atlas and Peco code 83 reminds me of the Hertz commercial. Not exactly!


----------



## THE TYCO MAN (Aug 23, 2011)

Kadee #5's are like a Gold Standard in HO! Athearn makes some good cars. I just swap the McHenry's in favor for #5's. Atlas, Athearn, Bachmann and Proto 1000/2000 are some good engine builders. I like code 100 track if older trains are in use. If newer stuff, code 83 is staple in HO like code 55 is in N scale. Walthers make good cars them selves. Only bad brand is Model Power (under weight cars) and Life Like. Good for beginners. Rivarossi is awesome. DCC'ing the older runs is tricky and can't run anything under code 100 rails.


----------



## BowtieMan (Jul 14, 2014)

Thank you Jestek, I will check with the guy at my LHS and see what he thinks before I purchase anything.

Jerry, I don't understand what you mean? Can you elaborate?

Tyco man, Thank you for that information. Model power has the reputation through out the industry regardless of scale it would appear. 

When the time comes I will be purchasing newer locomotives and rolling stock. Not going to make the mistake of buying a mixed "Lot" of junk on ebay this time. Tried that in N scale and wound up with some real junk.


----------



## JerryH (Nov 18, 2012)

The rail profiles don't quite match up in code 83. Mostly in height and joiner width. Atlas and Walthers do match well though in code 83.


----------



## Flynn_lives (Jul 6, 2013)

My trackage is a mix of Walthers Shinohara(turnouts mostly) and Atlas code 83 track. I've found that Walthers track joiners work the best.

Again, like most people said, Kadee #5's are the standard, which I use on most of my loco's and rolling stock. If the model comes with decent couplers that don't need any height adjustments, I'll leave them alone.

As for rolling stock, mine is a mix of Walthers Proto & Athearn Genesis(not the RTR line). Since I run ethanol trains, they are the only game in town for modern tank cars.

As for premier locomotive brands(DCC with sound), I've got MTH, Athearn Genesis, Atlas & Broadway limited(even the little tiny TrackMobile!). I tend to like MTH more because their handrails are all metal, but the other brands are nice too. It's basically WHO produces the loco's I need...(post 96' merger UP & BNSF) I learned the hard way when I started, and blew a ton of money on Bachmann Spectrum loco's. None of those work anymore.



Oh, and I run a Digitrax Superchief system. I am looking at upgrading to one of their duplex radio units so I can go wireless.


----------



## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

Code 100 is like the 144 lb rail used on the welded mainlines. I know that BNSF uses it. I saw it on their mainline.

I am liking Peco track better than Atlas now that I have began using Peco while Atlas had supply issues.


----------



## daylight (Aug 29, 2009)

BowtieMan said:


> Hi, im sorry if this is a beaten subject on here but here goes!
> 
> Now you see the reason i chose this title for this thread. I know there are many manufacturers and probably ten times as many opinions
> 
> ...


Consider MTH and Broadway Limited first if running trains with synchronized smoke and sound is important. Ho without these features is boring to me (just my opinion)

I have a number of their engine and they run, look and sound as good or if not better than any HO engines.

Also MTH, next month will be delivering their EVO Diesel which has the running board " "chasing Lights" ( a first in HO) just like the real engine which they have also done in O Gauge.

Just back from the NMRA show in Cleveland, Ohio and they had this engine on display.

Good luck.


----------



## BowtieMan (Jul 14, 2014)

I am seeing some recurring names where lcomotives and rolling stock are concerned. I may be making a trip to Trainmasters in Atlanta tomorrow. If i do I will check out some of the selections and pay special attention to the brands mentioned. 

Thanks for everyone's help so far!


----------



## BowtieMan (Jul 14, 2014)

I took a trip to the aforementioned hobby shop today (Mainly because I was going to Summit Racing store in McDonough to pick up some parts for my hot rod)

I wound up settling on Atlas code 83 flex for the track and will be using atlas code 83 turnouts. I picked up a box of 25 track and 25 cork bed and a few packs of rail joiners. I will be dropping feeders at every connection. What gauge wire is recommended for the feeder wires? I am going to solder up a bunch of them to have them ready for when I start laying track. I am also going to pre weather my track by painting the ties and rusting the sides of the rails. I will probably also treat the rails with NO-OX ID. I used it in N scale and never once had to do anything more than lightly wipe the rails down periodically!

I also got to explore a TON of rolling stock today with a very knowledgable staff member. I found that the N scale Red Caboose auto racks IMO look WAY better than the waltzers HO ones! I was surprised to find that the HO ones are not see through!

This is a photo of a red caboose FERROMEX auto rack.











YOu can see it has a fine mesh and is very realistic. The Walthers ones are just a solid plastic panel on the side….SO…I doubt I will be investing much time or money in the auto racks. I DID however fall in love with the plethora of road railer equipment available! So, I am probably going to be shifting my focus more towards intermodal and road railer type trains. Though the guy told me intermodal equipment is not as plentiful in HO as it is in N, I saw some great examples. But MAN those containers are expensive!!!

SO, overall a VERY exciting day as I got to go to the store for BOTH of my hobbies!


----------



## jesteck (Apr 15, 2014)

If you're dropping feeds at every connection, 3' or less, 18 or 20 guage should be more than enough. If you plan to solder the track connections, prefabbing the feeders is a waste of time and subjects the ties near the feeders to more heat than necessary. If you use solid wire (thermostat or bell wire) for your feeders, you can solder the joiner, the two rails it joins, and the feeder wire in one swell foop more quickly and with less overall sustained heat at the joint, and your feeder wire won't accidentally melt off the joiner. As to pre-painting the ties and pre-weathering the rails, either or both can reduce the flexibility of the flex track by "gluing" the rails to the ties; with flex-track, one rail- usually the inner- needs to slide for it to work; you have already said you have an airbrush, so wouldn't it be better to lay and test the track before painting? If you paint first, won't any curve you make force you to go back and redo all the places where the movement of the sliding rail exposed unpainted places previously covered by the molded-in spikes? Just a thought or two to save you some time and aggravation. Here's another: Take another look at PECO's turnouts, and Shinohara's. Both have features most Atlas do not.


----------



## BowtieMan (Jul 14, 2014)

Thanks for the advice jestek, I have always preweathered and painted my flex. You are correct that it does glue the rail to the ties but it just takes a little flexing to get it to come loose. After the first coat I go back and break the paint loose and touch up the areas it missed. For me, it is easier to access all sides of the track without having to be a contortionist or use mirrors. This way the only thing I have to touch up are the connections. 

I did look at the peco turnouts and we had a fairly lengthy discussion about them. The main difference he pointed out was the peco's have a spring to hold the rails in place. He did tell me though that if you are using a machine or a groundthrow to operate it, whatever mechanism you choose will take place of the spring. They used peco's on the layout in the hobby shop but they did not use any controls so the peco's made sense. We didn't really talk about shinoharas much but he did mention them. Do they have some feature that would be helpful?

I am not sure if I want to solder the track at all joints or not yet. Still undecided on that point. On previous layouts I've only soldered feeder wires to the bottom of the connectors. I've never run into an issue yet. The train room is climate controlled so track expansion and contraction is a minimal factor. However I am certainly open to discussion.


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

The Peco instructions say to remove the spring if using
tortoise motors. I use the Pl-10 twin coil motors for mine.

It's quite easy to solder drops to HO flex track after it's
laid. Use solid, not stranded wire, make a tiny bend on
one end. Pre Tin it. Drill the hole close to the rail, drop the wire
down the hole and lay the tinned tip on the rail base with
flux and carry a tad of solder on the iron tip. Just a light
touch will usually suffice without melting any ties.

Don


----------



## BowtieMan (Jul 14, 2014)

Thanks Don, I was watching a video last night on just that. I noticed this particular guy did his on the outside of the rails VS inside where, IMHO, It would be less visible. Is there a reason for this? I realize ballast will cover some of it up and painted it would be even less visible. Is it just for ease of installation?


----------



## mustangcobra94 (Apr 28, 2014)

Soldering the wires to the inside of the rail could interfere with wheels of the train


----------



## BowtieMan (Jul 14, 2014)

Ok thanks, hadnt thought of that. I guess I assumed you would pay attention to that detail as you go. I will probably wind up using outside rail then! Thanks for the response.


----------



## mustangcobra94 (Apr 28, 2014)

if you were real patient you could probably do it. but in the videos i seen and the club layouts i seen in person they were all wired to the outside .


----------



## jesteck (Apr 15, 2014)

You have obviously travelled this road in the past, so let your own experience with N be your guide. Not all readers have, though, and not all flex track is as flexible and forgiving as Atlas. I try to phrase any replies I make to be as useful to any "Newbie" readers lurking out there as they might be to the person I am replying to. I was taught in the '80s to solder wherever and whatever you can (turnouts being a possible exception) for reliability, so that's what I do. Can you get by without it? Sure, but I trust rail joiners to consistently carry current about as much as I trust politicians to do anything. Even a small amount of oxidation can create problems. Oh, and PECOs don't just have the spring to hold the point rails in contact with the mains; they also have small tabs (contacts) UNDER the point rails to help maintain continuity and alignment when switched.


----------



## BowtieMan (Jul 14, 2014)

Jestek, I didn't mean to come across wrong if I did. I understand what you are saying! 

I am at odds about soldering the entire layout. One side says "you know it's the right thing to do" while the other says "you have got away with it before" so, I will debate some more and decide. With so many peoples experience talking here I have a feeling I will solder it up. 

I'm working on putting the finishing touches on the tables and hope to get crankin on some track in the next few days.


----------



## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

Soldering is the best way, as oxidation at the joint is prevented internally.


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

As Grassie noted, oxidation can set in. I've had a few joiners
lose contact over time, and I've had joiners lose contact after
ballast glue invaded them. That's when I soldered. I'd say,
do solder the joints in hard to reach areas. 
Then if any goes bad in an easy to reach area,
bring on the soldering iron. 

Don


----------



## BowtieMan (Jul 14, 2014)

Well, I am leaning very heavily towards soldering. 10,000 model railroaders can't be wrong. I am sure I will at this point.


----------



## jesteck (Apr 15, 2014)

BowtieMan, you didn't come across wrong at all. There are thousands of layouts out there that have never seen a drop of solder, and the majority probably run OK- but once guys start adding ballast, scenery, and/or messing about with plaster or hydrocal around the tracks, problems start to crop up- and it's a lot easier to solder the joints as you lay the track (or shortly after) than it is to find and fix a bad joint- or worse, two that create a dead zone- after everything else is done. Oh, and I never had much luck trying to solder those danged insulating joiners (ROFL!)


----------



## BowtieMan (Jul 14, 2014)

Flynn lives, which manufacturer did you mean was the only game in town for modern tankers? I am definitely interested in modern tanker cars.


----------



## BowtieMan (Jul 14, 2014)

So I am debating my first loco purchase. I am looking at this: 

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Broadway-Limited-Imports-HO-GE-AC6000-CSX-p/bli-2606.htm?CartID=2

And this:

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Kato-HO-GE-C44-9W-UP-w-DCC-Sound-p/kat-376624-ls.htm

Or this:

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Broadway-Limited-Imports-HO-GE-AC6000-CSX-p/bli-2606.htm

Any thoughts on a preference here? Road is not particularly important debating between csx, UP, NS and KCS. I realize not all roads are available in all manufacturers. I just like the looks of these particular locomotives.


----------



## BowtieMan (Jul 14, 2014)

Bueller?………………Bueller?


----------



## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

Those are all good choices. For me, choice is wallet based.


----------



## BowtieMan (Jul 14, 2014)

Well, I am not going to say there is no budget here because there is always a budget. But I just got through selling off all my N scale stuff so That money is earmarked for HO. I wound up getting the Intermountain KCS road! I can't wait to get that little loco in my hands!


----------



## mustangcobra94 (Apr 28, 2014)

BowtieMan said:


> Well, I am not going to say there is no budget here because there is always a budget. But I just got through selling off all my N scale stuff so That money is earmarked for HO. I wound up getting the Intermountain KCS road! I can't wait to get that little loco in my hands!


I didn't see that one on your list of choices. how did you make out with your n scale sales?


----------



## BowtieMan (Jul 14, 2014)

LOL! Your right. A few years ago I was rail fanning and I saw one of these hauling a trainload of military equipment towards SC. I was cruising MB Klein the other night and ran across this and just decided on a whim that was the loco I wanted! 


http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Intermountain-HO-GE-ES44AC-KCS-w-DCC-Sound-p/imr-49702s-10.htm


----------



## BowtieMan (Jul 14, 2014)

mustangcobra94 said:


> how did you make out with your n scale sales?


I did OK. Not great but made enough to fund most of the parts I needed for my hotrod and some leftover to start in HO. I did lose on the newer items but did wind up making a fairly nice profit on some of the older stuff I had. I won't call it a wash, you never get back what you invest, but it was not a loss big enough to cry over.


----------



## Conductorjoe (Dec 1, 2011)

BowtieMan said:


> Well, I am not going to say there is no budget here because there is always a budget. But I just got through selling off all my N scale stuff so That money is earmarked for HO. I wound up getting the Intermountain KCS road! I can't wait to get that little loco in my hands!


I hear ya. :thumbsup: Not sure if you have seen my thread with some basic questions about HO to refresh my mind, But I am doing the same. My eyes just cant handle the tiny parts anymore.
Purchased my first Athearn locomotive last week.Been collecting N scale for decades.In the process of selling it all. The profits are being split with wife.She gets 50% for whatever she wants, I get the other 50% for HO trains. When the better half is on board it makes things all good. Its all good, as I had about 60 N scale locomotives. I don't think I have enough storage space for that many in HO :laugh:
Right now I am focussing on finding old out of production kits so I can get back to building things I can see .


----------



## long_haired_david (Aug 12, 2014)

BowtieMan said:


> Thank you for the responses so far! I appreciate it!
> 
> Mustang, I will add those to the list. I am not sure about the peco turnouts. IN N scale they weren't very proto looking. ALthough the general consensus was they were very reliable.


I am just laying my new model railroad with Peco Code 83. They look very good to me. Here is an image of one of my points (sorry I am from the UK).








You have be a bit careful as the rails pop out of the moulded spikes quite easily but it can normally be fed back in. To my mind, it looks the part. They seem to have the sleep (crosstie) length and separation distance right.
David


----------

