# Flex Track questions



## Mseav (Jul 30, 2015)

Does Atlas Flex Track have the same ties and tie spacing as Atlas brown snap track (when laid straight)? If both are used in the same layout, can you tell a difference? At the beginning or ending of an incline, is it better to have a track joint or a piece of Flex Track to smooth the transition? Can Flex Track bend upwards 4%?


----------



## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

I use code 100 (black tie) flex track mixed with sectional track, and there is no difference in the tie spacing. But you need someone with code 83 track to verify that this is true for them.

As for transitions to grade (called easements), it is much better to use flex track for the easement. If you have a track joint in the easement, it is difficult to keep it from kinking (i.e. making a sudden change in grade). A solid length of flex track will be easier to bend gradually.

You can make flex track "ease" into any grade that you want, but the steeper the grade, the longer the easement must be. If your easement is too rapid, you run the risk of locos stalling or derailing when some of their wheels loose contact with the track -- especially steamers. Also, too sharp of an easement can cause couplers to disconnect -- especially with long cars -- like passenger cars.


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Now, I could be wrong (I haven't used Code 100 track in a while), but I'm pretty sure Atlas uses black ties on its Code 100 products and brown ones (or concrete color) on its Code 83 products. That means a very different appearance for the two.

And MtRR75 is right about grades (and curves): whenever possible with flextrack, avoid track joints at the beginning or end. Form your easement from the flextrack. Even a slight kink at the top of a grade can make the wheel of a long piece of rolling stock ride up over the rails.


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

As the guys have said, it is very important to have a gradually
increasing grade both at the top and bottom of your riser. Else, at the
bottom your car or loco front coupler will dig into the ties, and
at the top the middle of a loco or car will drag on the rails
and likely cause short circuit.

Don


----------



## Mseav (Jul 30, 2015)

Thank you, good info


----------



## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

CTValleyRR said:


> Now, I could be wrong (I haven't used Code 100 track in a while), but I'm pretty sure Atlas uses black ties on its Code 100 products and brown ones (or concrete color) on its Code 83 products. That means a very different appearance for the two.


I thought the OP was trying to mix Atlas code 83 flex track (which they call super flex track) with code 83 sectional track -- both have brown ties (or concrete ties). Since I have only code 100 track (Black ties), I can't answer this. They do look similar in the on-line pictures, but that's weak evidence. However the tie size and spacing in all code 100 track is very different from all code 83 track.


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I haven't examined them under magnification, but Atlas Code 83 with brown ties looks very close to Super Flextrack to me.


----------



## grashley (Aug 27, 2015)

Sorry. Duplicate. Still learning.


----------



## grashley (Aug 27, 2015)

I echo what others said about easements. I bought a "ready to run" layout on E Bay. BAD IDEA!! It had an unnecessary 4+% grade with NO easement. My F7's would run over it, but were NOT happy. My E8 hung up as described above. I tore off all the SECTIONAL track, and replaced it with flex. Instead of nearly 50 track joints with sectional (poorly soldered), I have 10 track joints with flex. Instead of a big rise over 6 inches, I have a gentle rise over 30 inches.

One other note on Flex Track: Lay your first piece, leaving about 6 inches on each end loose. SOLDER THE JOINERS CONNECTING THE TWO PIECES OF FLEX, while both pieces are straight, under no strain, then attach the end of the last piece, and all but the last 6 inches of the new piece. Trim rails as needed for curves. Repeat.

This will make your flex track joints much smoother and trouble free. Trust me. I did not do it that way the first time. After having trouble, I pulled up part of the track and resoldered.


----------



## Mseav (Jul 30, 2015)

grashley said:


> I echo what others said about easements. I bought a "ready to run" layout on E Bay. BAD IDEA!! It had an unnecessary 4+% grade with NO easement. My F7's would run over it, but were NOT happy. My E8 hung up as described above. I tore off all the SECTIONAL track, and replaced it with flex. Instead of nearly 50 track joints with sectional (poorly soldered), I have 10 track joints with flex. Instead of a big rise over 6 inches, I have a gentle rise over 30 inches.
> 
> One other note on Flex Track: Lay your first piece, leaving about 6 inches on each end loose. SOLDER THE JOINERS CONNECTING THE TWO PIECES OF FLEX, while both pieces are straight, under no strain, then attach the end of the last piece, and all but the last 6 inches of the new piece. Trim rails as needed for curves. Repeat.
> 
> This will make your flex track joints much smoother and trouble free. Trust me. I did not do it that way the first time. After having trouble, I pulled up part of the track and resoldered.


Hey Gordon, I'm new and I almost followed that. Are you saying it's important to solder all flex track joints while they are straight and then lay them into curves?


----------



## grashley (Aug 27, 2015)

Mseav said:


> Hey Gordon, I'm new and I almost followed that. Are you saying it's important to solder all flex track joints while they are straight and then lay them into curves?


EXACTLY. If you try to solder them when already curved, the joints will NOT be straight, and trains will not run well.


----------



## Mseav (Jul 30, 2015)

grashley said:


> EXACTLY. If you try to solder them when already curved, the joints will NOT be straight, and trains will not run well.


 You saved me from that mistake, thanks. You also brought up something I had not considered. When laying curved flex track, the outer track will be shorter than the inner. H ow do you deal with that?


----------



## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

Mseav said:


> You saved me from that mistake, thanks. You also brought up something I had not considered. When laying curved flex track, the outer track will be shorter than the inner. H ow do you deal with that?


With flex track, one rail is loose -- to slide along the ties and allow the curving. Make that the inner rail on all of your curves. Once the curve is set in place, cut off the excess part of the inner rail. This is why Grashley said to leave the last 6" of track unlaid so that you can work on it.

The best way to cut track is with track cutters like these:

http://www.micromark.com/xuron-track-cutter,7465.html

You will also then need to remove the last tie from each piece in order to install rail joiners. Use the same cutters to cut the plastic connections under the track. Save the ties. After the layout is done, take those ties, and remove the little bumps on the top (they mimic the railroad spikes). Then slide them under the track and glue them down. That way you will have ties under all of your rails. This is for appearance purposes. The track is capable of bridging that gap and holding up even your heaviest locos.

P.S. Some suggest staggering the breaks in the two rails at the junction of two track pieces -- so that the 2 rail joiners are several inches apart. This helps make smooth transitions between track sections, but does involve removing and replacing more ties -- not a big job.


----------



## grashley (Aug 27, 2015)

Mseav said:


> You saved me from that mistake, thanks. You also brought up something I had not considered. When laying curved flex track, the outer track will be shorter than the inner. H ow do you deal with that?


MtRR75 is correct. I did not go into that much detail. NOTE with flex track, one rail will move, but the INSIDE rail (in a curve) will be shorter. This inside rail needs to be the moving rail, with the excess cut off, as described above.


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Be sure to have a good file at hand when you cut flex track, especially
if you use the Xuron cutter. It often causes the bottom of the rail to
bend. This will hinder installing the joiners. File it down.

Keep the ties you remove. Cut the 'spikes' off and put them back
under the track when as you finish.

Don


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I agree here -- although I use a cutoff wheel in my Dremel to make cuts. I solder my flextrack into 6-9 foot pieces (really, distance between turnouts is the deciding factor) on my workbench, then install them on the table. I don't solder these longer sections together, because each has its own feeder. As much as possible, I have unsoldered joints only in the middle of straight sections.


----------



## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

I just finished laying my track on my 4x6 layout. I used Atlas code 83 with Atlas custom line switches, with a few small sectional pieces as fillers. I can't tell any difference between different sections. Once you add ballast then it's impossible to tell. I totally agree about soldering the joints together. One thing I did find is to make sure all connections on the flex is on straights. I tried connecting and soldering on curves and had nothing but problems. Hopefully you can avoid mistakes that we've all made.


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Staggering the rail cuts helps avoid flex track joint kinking
on curves. Cut one rail maybe 2 inches shorter than the other
on both sections. Slip the rails out of the ties then join the
sections by again slipping the rails back into the ties.

Once joined see that you have a smooth joint then use pins
to hold in place until you glue the track down.

Don


----------



## grashley (Aug 27, 2015)

For actually laying the track, I started with cork road bed. Draw a very accurate line where the CENTER if the track will run. The cork comes as a two piece product. Separate the two pieces. One edge is square, one tapered. The tapered edge goes to the outside and simulates the taper of a raised road bed. Add glue to ONE side of the center line and carefully lay the square edge of the cork along this line. I used sewing pins to hold the cork in place while it dried, but push pins or other pins would work as well. Use plenty of pins in the curves. Add glue to the other side of the line and repeat, keeping the two pieces together in the center. minor gaps will be covered by ballast later. Staggered ends will happen on curves. Plan staggered ends on straight sections.

Once all the cork is down, add track as described above. The track can attached with white glue (my choice), caulk, or most any other adhesive. Again, pin the track in place while the adhesive dries to prevent the track from shifting. Use the cork center line as your guide.

HAVE FUN !!!!!!


----------



## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

This is a very good thread on using and laying flex track. Great tips guys. I have a 
question. Planning new layout. I want to stagger my joints by a few inches. That
might lead to some waste of track. That's ok. I have a command station and a booster.
So I will have blocks. Here is the question. Can the joints be staggered between the
blocks or do they need to be across from each other?


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I would suggest that between blocks or an isolated section the joints should
be opposite. Consider, with staggered joints between insulated sections, the
power pickup wheels on one side would pick up power from section A while
the wheels on the other side would pickup from section B. Not a good
electrical situation.

Don


----------



## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Don, I kinda agree with you, but think about this. Lets take a diesel loco. Of
coarse left and right power pickup. Front trucks would be in one block and
rear trucks in another block. Even with opposite joints.
See why I wonder if staggered joints really matter.
Thanks.

Al


----------



## grashley (Aug 27, 2015)

First, if you are using DCC, this is all nonsense. If you are using DC, to move seamlessly from one block to another, both MUST be connected (electrical switch) to the same transformer. Once past the isolators, the power can be switched as desired. This being said, as long as the isolators are fairly close, it should make no difference. Just remember where the isolators are located.


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

mopac said:


> Don, I kinda agree with you, but think about this. Lets take a diesel loco. Of
> coarse left and right power pickup. Front trucks would be in one block and
> rear trucks in another block. Even with opposite joints.
> See why I wonder if staggered joints really matter.
> ...


I was thinking mainly in terms of going from block A powered by booster A
and block B powered by booster B. The diesel wheels on one side would
be taking Booster A power and the other side Boster B and I'm not that
up on what phasing might be involved especially since the boosters are
likely to be 5 or more amps.

I agree on a reverse loop it's likely to be moot.

Think I'll mosey over the WiringforDCC and see what
those super brains say about it.

Alan Gartner says: Gaps should be across from one another
when going from one BOOSTER to another, but that
it doesn't matter when at the joint of a 'reverse loop'.

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/track_2.htm

Don


----------



## grashley (Aug 27, 2015)

I am not up on DCC, but my understanding is you just power the tracks and DCC does the rest. 
For my DC setup, I have an Atlas 4 place SPDT switch. Power supply A goes to the bottom, power supply B goes to the top. Track connections wire across the top. When a switch is DOWN, then A supplies power. When a switch is UP, then B supplies power. Switch in the middle - no power. All of these wires go to the INSIDE track. All outside track wires go to a common block and to the common side of the regulated power supply. Any section of track can be powered by either A or B or neither. Just slide the switch. See Atlas part # 215 SELECTOR


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Grashley -- nothing wrong with that setup, but it's a little complicated for beginners, especially those who aren't that comfortable with wiring.

As you point out, you can basically just connect a DCC set to the tracks. Simplistically, the track is always hot and motors take their commands from individual decoders (circuit cards w/ microchips) inside each loco. More realistically, several feeders off a common bus is a better setup, but still much less complex.


----------



## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Alan Gartner says: Gaps should be across from one another
when going from one BOOSTER to another, but that
it doesn't matter when at the joint of a 'reverse loop'.


Thanks Don. That's good enough for me. Across from each other between
blocks. Got it.


----------

