# dcc... feeders to turnouts?



## broox (Apr 13, 2012)

Wiring in my first switches/turnouts today.

Where do I drop feeders?

99% of them are atlas #6 or #8 there is one peco insulfrog curved turnout


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## joed2323 (Oct 17, 2010)

For me i soldered feeders to the flextrack coming off the atlas turnouts.

I know on my peco electrofrog turnouts i had to put insulated rail joiners coming off the frog part (v part) of turnout. I had to turn the switch over and modify it slightly.
On the insulfrog turnouts i dont think anything has to be done with this type since the frog is dead.

Atlas switches i didnt do anything special except stick it in place and go

I had to use peco switches for my curved turnouts.


This may not be correct to some but it works for me and i have no shorts.


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## broox (Apr 13, 2012)

so just solder to the flex track on all connecting to the turnout, and not bother with soldering to the turnout itself?


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

I add drops to all 3 sides (or more) of switches to make sure power is supplied to all the rails!
With the Atlas turnout's you can power the frogs off of contacts from the switch machine, or a device called a "Frog Juicer".


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## broox (Apr 13, 2012)

hmmmm, i'm gonna leave them unpowered for the moment.

That way i can remove them easily in the short term.

I'll do some more reading on the subject too  cheers for the quick help


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## feldon30 (Dec 30, 2012)

Some folks solder/power each section of flex track. Some solder/power the rail joiners.


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## broox (Apr 13, 2012)

Yeah I'm soldering each piece of flex track.

I will solder the turnouts once they're 100%.. I havent worked out wether I will be ground throwing or switch machining them, so I may need to remove and replace turnouts depending on how I make them move. 

Also some of my turnouts are 2nd hand and have had some of the throw bar (the right term?) trimmed off, and are only really suitable for below deck switch machines


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Broox,
Pre drill a 1/2 hole under the center of the throw bar and you will not need to remove the switch to add undertable turnout control.


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## broox (Apr 13, 2012)

Yeah I've pre drilled most of them so far.

dunno what way i'll go for some of them. Pat's gonna hook me up some ground throws to have a play with. and I've got a tortise to play with too


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

Take a good look at the 2nd hand atlas turn out. some of the older ones used plastic for the frogs and they get wornout. I make sure there is power on all sides of my trunouts. I have had trouble with "power routing" through the turnouts.


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## waltr (Aug 15, 2011)

Use an Ohmmeter (resistance setting on a DMM) to test that each rail on all sides of the turn-out are correctly connected. Left rails all connected and right rails all connected. 
Also, test across each rail pair to ensure they are not shorted.


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## Ranger_10X (Dec 21, 2016)

Hmm, I dropped in on this thread because I'm resurecting a very old DC layout and have had problems with the turnouts affecting my DCC trains. They are all Atlas but some are 40 years old. Problems include dead spots and shorts. Not sure if it is the turnouts, the old rolling stock, or both. Seems to happen with both the older and newer turnouts as well as with old and new lighted passenger cars. Don't seem to have problems with only locos except one steamer that has its pickups on a short wheelbase tender (it deadspots at the exact same place on only one turnout) Can anyone point me to a trouble shooting guide?


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Atlas turnouts are not the best operating for starters but if forty years old I'd be tempted to junk them and replace them with reliable new turnouts from Peco or similar, you'll save yourself hours of frustration. If they are installed on a layout then you're in for a lot of work, not the least of which is dealing with the new geometry of the replacement items but I can't see any value in spending hours trying to fix old/ wornout track when you could be running trains but it's your call. 

Fix up a yard length of track incorporating a turnout and test your locos, you'll soon see where your problems lay.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Ranger

Often the problem with older layouts is the use
of brass tracks that oxidise and causes loss of
electrical conductivity between the sections and
also rail to wheels. They require a lot of
maintenance. That is also possibly the reason
your locos are having difficulties on turnouts
though the rivets often wear and cause
problems also.
The point rails may not be getting power
from the the stock rails. Some touch up
of the troublemakers may be in order.

Clean loco & tender wheels is also important.

Don


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## sachsr1 (Mar 3, 2016)

Ranger_10X said:


> Hmm, I dropped in on this thread because I'm resurecting a very old DC layout and have had problems with the turnouts affecting my DCC trains. They are all Atlas but some are 40 years old. Problems include dead spots and shorts. Not sure if it is the turnouts, the old rolling stock, or both. Seems to happen with both the older and newer turnouts as well as with old and new lighted passenger cars. Don't seem to have problems with only locos except one steamer that has its pickups on a short wheelbase tender (it deadspots at the exact same place on only one turnout) Can anyone point me to a trouble shooting guide?


I just had the same problem with some old Atlas turnouts. One of the turnouts would short out, but only when I was reversing over the turnout. If the loco was going forward there was no problem. the loco was shorting out right at the frog. A little work with the dremel fixed it. I don't have actual pictures, but the red lines show where I took some metal out. No issues with derailments and no more shorts.


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