# Lionel 6520 Searchlight Car resto



## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

I'm digging into my next project now that there's a running train around my ceiling. I picked up this 6520 at a barn sale earlier this year, and it's been just kind of sitting in a box since. It needs some work to be brought back to life . . . and much of this is new to me. Should be fun. 

To start - the known problems:
- It's really dirty.
- The wiring is rotted, and some has fallen off.
- One truck is missing the coupler.
- The rolling switch isn't functional. When the armature is drawn down it doesn't catch the spokes like it should.

Here are some photos:


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

erkenbrand said:


> The rolling switch isn't functional. When the armature is drawn down it doesn't catch the spokes like it should.


Erk,

I've never fiddled with one of these, so this is fuzzy commentary ...

What do you mean about "spokes"? You need a special track piece to operate that car ... the "armature" shoe-thing is pulled down by a track electromagnet, which, in turn, is operated by a special hand-held control unit. Do you have that track / control unit?

I guess one could pull down on the armature shoe manually to test ... is that what you've done?

TJ


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Hi TJ - yup, I've manually pulled down on the shoe to test it. I'll be posting pics in a second to show what I mean. 

I discovered that the problem isn't really a problem. The arm in there just needs cleaned up a bit to work more freely.


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## tooter (Feb 26, 2010)

I never realized that the search lights were operated like an accessory. I thought they were on all the time with the track power like a caboose light. 

That's a really neato project, erk.  :thumbsup:

Greg


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Here's the car all torn down.

You can see the spoked wheel I mentioned earlier. The arm that swings down to move the spoked switch works via gravity. So, if it isn't free to swing it doesn't move well. The problem I noted earlier was a problem with a grit and dirt in there. With the grit knocked out, it works like it should.





































Below is where the track power wire would attach to the truck . . .


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

choo choo said:


> I never realized that the search lights were operated like an accessory. I thought they were on all the time with the track power like a caboose light.
> 
> That's a really neato project, erk.  :thumbsup:
> 
> Greg


There's a number of models of the searchlight. There are some that rotate as they run, are fixed as they run, and then those same two variations with the remote switch triggered by the uncoupling track. At one time, I've had three of the varieties here, I kept the one that rotates and has the switch.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

For the sake of having photos of the complete teardown here are the last couple. Now, the light is all apart, and the switch is out. 

Next up, I'll give it a full cleaning and put it back together. I think I have a spare lamp base in my parts bin, but if not I'll just solder a new wire to this one. 

The only thing I don't have is a replacement for that missing coupler. The only other cars I have that have that setup are in good shape. I'll see what I can find at the train show this weekend.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Looks like all the parts are quite serviceable ... nice cleanup work!

TJ


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Yeah, I think it's going to shape up nicely. I was expecting a lot worse, but it really just needs a tune up.


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## BigAl56 (Dec 14, 2011)

When you rewire its important to use a free hanging stranded wire. An over-stiff wire prevents the truck from moving properly. Most good hobby shops have a similar reproduction rubberized insulated wire Lionel used on these. Also look over that center rail roller. It looks like there is a lot of gunk on it. Now is the time to clean or replace it while you have the truck torn apart.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Good points. I'm definitely cleaning all of the bits and pieces before reassembly. Not only does the center roller have a lot of gunk, but the wheels are unbelievably caked. It looks like somebody ran it through a bunch of putty. 

For the wire I usually use hook-up wire from my amplifier projects. I have a selection of soft, braided 18AWG, 20AWG, and others. It's important for that truck to move freely, and for the light to point and stay where I want it. 

I ordered the parts from The Train Tender today. Getting the rivet in the truck to set right should be fun. I keep trying to rationalize picking up an arbor press, but I'll probably just stick it out with a punch and hammer. I also have to update the carbon rollers on my ZW so I'll have a fun afternoon of resto ahead.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

My parts box came in from The Train Tender. Pretty exciting.

Any tips on how to set a rivet without a press? Currently, I'm planning on using a small punch and hammer. The rivet tools are just too expensive for me right now.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I used a nail to set a knuckle rivet. I have also rounded some punches to push out the sides. It depends on the style of the rivet.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, the truck rivets won't succumb to a nail, they're pretty "stiff". Without a rivet tool, I'd find a flat punch about 3/8" across, clamp it in your vise firmly pointing up. Set the truck rivet in position on the truck and the car and position it over the flat punch. Using a center punch, set the rivet. My advice is to go easy and test the play in the rivet joint until you get what you desire.

BTW, without the tool this is a two-man job, one to hold the car in position, and one with the hammer and center punch. The center punch setting the rivet wants to be a pretty wide one so it'll spread the ends of the rivet and not just try to drive down through it.

That's how I used to do it before I got the rivet tool, now I can do it by myself.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

For trucks I go with a screw and lock nut.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

This promises to be a fun experiment. 

Thanks for the tips!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

T-Man said:


> I used a nail to set a knuckle rivet. I have also rounded some punches to push out the sides. It depends on the style of the rivet.


This photo of T-Man's punch/nailset goodies has stuck with me ... nice collection with curved flare ...

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?p=71658&postcount=85

TJ


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

That is a nice collection. Looks like I'm going to have some fun setting rivets tomorrow. 

The ones for the rollers on the ZW should be a blast too.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The ZW rollers are easy, no need to try to do them the traditional way. I just crush the ends of the rivets to keep them from sliding out of the arms.

I also clean the arms shiny bright after removing the old rivets and then solder the end of the rivet as well.

Make SURE you consider the direction you put the rivets in, because the long end will clash if you don't orient them the proper way. The two arms going past each other don't have much clearance between them, so the ends of the rivets should all face outward.

Did you see the method of removing the old rollers and rivets? Crush the rollers with needle-nose pliers and then use a Dremel cutoff wheel to slice the center of the rivet. I don't remove the arms from the transformer for this operation, I just use a twist-tie to hold them away from the core and work in them there. Makes the whole operation a 15-20 minute exercise to replace the rollers.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

The 6520 is up and going now. I was able to use a combination of punches to set the truck rivets.

Here are some photos . . . 

The coupler set in place and ready to be set. I used super glue to hold it in position while I prepared to give it a good wack with the punch. As you can see, I used a piece of scrap steel for an anvil.










I first used the center point punch to begin rounding the rivet, and then the small punch to drive it flat and adjust it until it was tight.










Tools of the trade . . . At Harbor Freight I picked up a spring loaded center punch that has a really nice almost round point. I disassembled the whole thing so I could just use the point.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Since the car and pieces were all caked in years of grime, I gave it all a bath and good scrubbing with a tooth brush. With that done I started the reassembly.

First step was a new lamp base and spring with some fresh wire. I also ran a new lead from the pickup roller on the lead truck . . . 



















It's hard to see in the photos, but the pickup roller and all of the wheels were gunked up with years of build up. I cleaned them all with Goo Gone and green Scotch Brite pads. Once they were all cleaned up, I lubed them with a drop of oil each. I also lubed the couplers to make sure they would continue to work well.



















Now, it's all set and again a living 6520. It works like a champ.


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## Bloodhound (Dec 2, 2012)

Looks stunning! I understand these rotate?


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Yup, you just aim the light where you want to point it.


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

Nice work. I'd say by the looks of the roller, that car has been around the track quite a few times!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Looks like new again.


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