# New to DCC Sound - Need some suggestions



## pilot2fly (Nov 14, 2016)

Hi guys,

I'm new to model railroading in general, but I want to add sound to my locomotive. I have a Bachmann GP38-2 Union Pacific #2024 that is DCC powered. I have been looking at Tsunami and Digitrix decoders, but I'm not sure how to install them on the factory decoder that is already inside the locomotive. I don't have a soldering iron and my soldering skills are less than subpar, so I don't want to solder if I don't have to.

Is there any way to add sound by without soldering or removing the factory DCC decoder?


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

pilot2fly said:


> Is there any way to add sound by without soldering or removing the factory DCC decoder?[/quote
> 
> If the factory DCC decoder that is already in there has a plug connector, just unplug it and plug in the appropriate sound/DCC decoder, and find a place for the speaker


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## pilot2fly (Nov 14, 2016)

Here is what the inside of my locomotive looks like. I don't believe there is 8 pin connector on this DCC board. I want to avoid soldering but I don't know of any alternatives.


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## Mark R. (Jan 26, 2013)

I've converted a few of those to sound and were a real PITA. Not only are you going to need soldering skills, but also the ability to do some metal work.

That long metal beam is also the support for the trucks, and part of it has to go if you plan on having any room for a speaker.

This is not an easy conversion, and definitely not one to tackle if you don't have some experience (including soldering) doing these kind of conversions. Sorry to be the wet blanket ....

Mark.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

without a plug, soldering will need to be done ..
either for a soundbug type, or complete replacement DCC/Sound decoder


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## Mark R. (Jan 26, 2013)

wvgca said:


> without a plug, soldering will need to be done ..
> either for a soundbug type, or complete replacement DCC/Sound decoder


Not obvious in the photo is the fact there is very little clearance between the top of that board and the roof of the shell. The full length of the board prohibits mounting ANYthing on top of it.

Mark.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

Mark R. said:


> Not obvious in the photo is the fact there is very little clearance between the top of that board and the roof of the shell. The full length of the board prohibits mounting ANYthing on top of it.
> 
> Mark.



Good point.. as I personally have never done a soundbug [or any other sound only decoder option], physical room needs to be considered..
In this particular loco, is any type of metal removal required to gain room for the speaker itself?


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## Mark R. (Jan 26, 2013)

wvgca said:


> Good point.. as I personally have never done a soundbug [or any other sound only decoder option], physical room needs o considered..
> In this particular loco, is an type of metal removal required to gain room for the speaker itself?


Been trying to find the pictures of the ones I did - I usually take pictures of the more complex installs.

I seem to recall splitting that beam in three pieces with a step-down notch in the middle. The trucks have a really strange mount that is actually in that beam. You can see the mounting hole for the front truck at the extreme right hand edge in the photo. That's the tough part - that mount has to remain at that height at both ends.

Will still look for my pictures ....

Mark.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Mark R. said:


> I've converted a few of those to sound and were a real PITA. Not only are you going to need soldering skills, but also the ability to do some metal work.
> 
> That long metal beam is also the support for the trucks, and part of it has to go if you plan on having any room for a speaker.
> 
> ...


I agree with Mark. Not to be attempted by novices. There are hobby shops that will undertake this kind of thing. One near me (in CT) charges $10 if you buy the decoder from them. 

I don't know where in NC you are, or what the hobby shop landscape looks like near you, but this might be an option. There are also places that will do it on a mail order basis.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

There are many instances around a model train layout
where you should, or even must solder.

It is not difficult.

Get a 25 or 30 watt soldering IRON, they usually
come with 3 or 4 different changeable tips and usually
cost less than 25.00. You'll want to get RESIN core
solder. Do not get solder made for plumbing. You'll
also want a small tin of flux.

Then practice on scrap wires and brass or copper
pieces.

The technique I use is to 'tin' each piece to be soldered.
Apply flux to each part then take a small dab of
solder on the tip of the iron and deftly touch the part.
The solder should flow onto it. Do all the parts.

Then, if wires, you usually want to twist them together,
but you also can solder them in parallel. In either
case again apply flux, and again carry a dab of
solder to the joint. You will see the solder solidify
in just a few seconds. Test the joint to see that it
is physically sound.

That's about all there is to it.

Don


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## Mark R. (Jan 26, 2013)

CTValleyRR said:


> I agree with Mark. Not to be attempted by novices. There are hobby shops that will undertake this kind of thing. One near me (in CT) charges $10 if you buy the decoder from them.
> 
> I don't know where in NC you are, or what the hobby shop landscape looks like near you, but this might be an option. There are also places that will do it on a mail order basis.


Something tells me your local hobby shop wouldn't touch THAT install for $10 ! I charged $60 labor each for the two that I did and it actually should have been more based on the time it took.

Mark.


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## pilot2fly (Nov 14, 2016)

Thanks for all the help guys. I'm debating getting a very small Bluetooth speaker to put in the locomotive and using a sound app and adding in sounds. Not the most effective way, but it looks like it would work.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Mark R. said:


> Something tells me your local hobby shop wouldn't touch THAT install for $10 ! I charged $60 labor each for the two that I did and it actually should have been more based on the time it took.
> 
> Mark.


Yes, you're probably right. The worst I ever inflicted on him was an old Athearn Blue Box F7 that required some milling on the frame. Installed price for the decoder was about $32 (non-sound), IIRC. So maybe a little more than $10, but still. They do great work, although the turnaround time is often 3 weeks or more.

The point was more that he should look for a place that can do it for him, and that the prices weren't unreasonable.


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## pilot2fly (Nov 14, 2016)

Well I guess they don't make bluetooth speakers small enough to fit in the engine. Maybe I'll just get a small one for the middle of the track.


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## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

pilot2fly said:


> Well I guess they don't make bluetooth speakers small enough to fit in the engine. Maybe I'll just get a small one for the middle of the track.


If you picked a box car, perhaps you could mount the bluetooth speaker in it, and then just always run that car with the loco. Of course, you'd have to work out a way to power it...


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## nicksim86 (Dec 14, 2015)

for the price of a sound decoder, speaker and labor, you can buy a new loco that comes with sound (especially bachmann). either sell the one you have or use it in a consist with the new sound loco.


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## 3.8TransAM (Jan 13, 2016)

DonR said:


> There are many instances around a model train layout
> where you should, or even must solder.
> 
> It is not difficult.
> ...


Don nailed it!

Get a cheap soldering setup and go for it.

Practice your soldering on scrap stuff and wire.

Work slow, test fit, measure 3 times to cut once and do it.

I laugh when I see people sending frames out to get milled:smilie_auslachen: A file, a hacksaw and a little time do the same thing in 99% of the cases people sent them out to be milled.......I do cheat and use my big boy tools out in the garage and my compressor but 98% of my main cutting is measuring and a hacksaw. Use the other stuff to clean it up.

Only way you will learn is to do it and look at it this way, 2 speaker wires, 4 wires for the trucks(2 per truck), 2 motor wires and 4 wires for front and rear lights, 3 if they use a common power. Its not a lot, especially if you break it down and work slow.


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## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*Sounds of Silence?*

I think,.. I also agree with the gentleman above./\ here....
After all.I think it's not wise to cut out much,if any weight, on a locomotive. Weight=pulling power. 
Sugar cube speakers or Sony Walkman headphone speakers maybe able to be employed here:dunno:
Regard's,tr1


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

3.8TransAM said:


> Don nailed it!
> 
> Get a cheap soldering setup and go for it.
> 
> ...


Soldering is an essential skill in this hobby, and i agree that it's not that hard. Nor is milling a frame. And I'm certainly a believer that you shouldn't shy away from learning new skills.

That said, we all like different aspecrs of this hobby, and everything we do is a trsdeoff. While I am perfectly CAPABLE of installing a decoder, milling a frame, etc., and have the tools to do it, I would much rather spend my limited hobby time doing other things. Since i have an LHS that does this stuff on the cheap, I'm very happy to let them.

So, you may laugh when you see people sending out frames to be milled. I roll my eyes when I see comments like that. Your value judgement is not mine, and most likely isn't others, either. Encourage people to learn a new skill. That's great. But don't belittle people who don't want to do things your way.


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