# 302AC arrived today-now the fun starts!



## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

It looks pretty good with the exception for the Tender connection screw is missing and the Brush Bridge screws are silver and not black as I expected. Maybe someone had gotten inside. I will be interested to see more as I clean it up and apply power.hwell:


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

She looks very nice. Congrats. You can paint screws black so no biggie there. The screw that holds drawbar to engine is missing? Look in all the packing material to see if it is there. Usually sellers put the screw back in locomotive. They do usually take tender loose from engine. Is it a 5 wire loco?


Oh, I looked at pictures again. I think that is a rivet missing on your drawbar. A screw and nut might work. It is
not suppose to come apart where yours is. That has to swivel there so can't tighten screw and nut. I see now it 
is not a 5 wire. I like that better. My 302AC is a 5 wire. But I think it was added.

Really good looking locomotive. Nice.

My brush bracket screws are all silver not black.


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## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

BC the drawbar has to be insulated where it attaches to the front tender truck. A screw and nut creates a short. The parts required to attach the drawbar to the tender are as follows; PA10751 drawbar shouldered rivet, PA1067-A fiber drawbar washer, and PA1312 shouldered drawbar washer. The ttender.com and portlines.com both carry them and they're inexpensive. I would suggest buying a few in case of problems when you try installing them, or to keep some in stock in case you end up needing them for future purchases. Just make sure you install them in the correct sequence. The flat washer sits on top of the front truck hole, the rivet goes down thru the washer and front truck hole, the shoulder rivet goes up into the bottom of the truck hole to insulate the rivet. Then the drawbar attaches under the front truck tongue and the rivet and gets peened. That insulates the drawbar at the tender attachment point. Hope this explained what needs to be done.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I did not know that joint needed to be insolated. I knew there was a rivet missing.
Not a screw Broke. Seller should have mentioned this.

He won't be happy.


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

cramden said:


> BC the drawbar has to be insulated where it attaches to the front tender truck. A screw and nut creates a short. The parts required to attach the drawbar to the tender are as follows; PA10751 drawbar shouldered rivet, PA1067-A fiber drawbar washer, and PA1312 shouldered drawbar washer. The ttender.com and portlines.com both carry them and they're inexpensive. I would suggest buying a few in case of problems when you try installing them, or to keep some in stock in case you end up needing them for future purchases. Just make sure you install them in the correct sequence. The flat washer sits on top of the front truck hole, the rivet goes down thru the washer and front truck hole, the shoulder rivet goes up into the bottom of the truck hole to insulate the rivet. Then the drawbar attaches under the front truck tongue and the rivet and gets peened. That insulates the drawbar at the tender attachment point. Hope this explained what needs to be done.


Thanks Cramden! I went to portlines and all I could find was PA1312. Is the only way to order from ttender,com is to only use their order form and snailmail it back?


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## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

The # for ttender is 585-229-2050 or [email protected]. Portlines lists the parts, look under W for the washer and R for the rivet. Also the first rivet listing is a drawbar repair kit that fits most tenders. Give them a call, #s on their site.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Broke, this is what we get messing with 60+ year old toys.

They are antiques.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

I buy all the necessary parts from Jeff Kane at The Train Tender.. I use the "bulk" option as that connection is a common defect and a easy fix.I use a simple roll pin punch to expand the rivet end..No expensive or one off tools are needed.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Brush bracket screws can be different colors.I have motors that have either color..When you order the rivet/bushings, order a dozen brushes and a dozen brush springs, probably cost you about $5 bucks...Before you power up that loco, add about 10 drops of smoke fluid to the smoke unit and let it sit for a few minutes. This will wet the wick, and in case the wick is dry, you won't burn up the wick...And 1 last thing, if you tear apart the loco, remember the very first thing you do is to remove the smoke stack tube in the chimney. If you try and remove the chassis without taking the tube out, you might damage the smoke unit, or something else.. The smoke tube in your 302AC will be brass, not red plastic.


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

cramden said:


> The # for ttender is 585-229-2050 or [email protected]. Portlines lists the parts, look under W for the washer and R for the rivet. Also the first rivet listing is a drawbar repair kit that fits most tenders. Give them a call, #s on their site.


Thanks Cramden! I contacted Jeff and placed an order. I have to say that I am quite impressed as to the friendliness and helpfulness of all of those on this forum as well as suppliers such as Jeff at The Train Tender. :appl:


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## Chiefmcfuz (Dec 30, 2008)

Jeff is great. Keep him on speed dial.


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## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

mopac said:


> Broke, this is what we get messing with 60+ year old toys.
> 
> They are antiques.


But they're fun antiques and will be around another 60 years as long as there are people that enjoy them.


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## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

BrokeCurmudgeon said:


> Thanks Cramden! I contacted Jeff and placed an order. I have to say that I am quite impressed as to the friendliness and helpfulness of all of those on this forum as well as suppliers such as Jeff at The Train Tender. :appl:


You're welcome, glad you were able to get what you need. As I've said before there are many folks on MTF that help others all the time . I'm just one of many. Enjoy.


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