# Repainting a tinplate locomotive



## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

Recently dug out my father’s old Ives tinplate set, and as you will see from the photographs, the loco was repainted an ugly gold at some point. I have always wanted to repaint this back to original colors, but have never had enough time, info (or talent) to do it. Here are a few questions:

1/ where to find good pictures of this loco in its original scheme?

2/ how to remove old paint, and prime for a new coat?

3/ what brand of paint would be good for this? Enamels? Acrylics?

4/ can I get away with spray cans for this type of job? I’m not great at airbrushing, and hand painting would look awful, I think.

Any help appreciated. I’m attaching pix of the loco and the other cars in case that helps dictate what colors the loco should have.


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

It appears to be the 3252 loco, but not 100% sure, until I get back home from vacation. If it is the 3252 loco, it shows up on the Ives Train website, in the color Green. I can get more specific when I get access to my books. As far as stripping the Gold paint, I have great success with Castrol Super Clean, which is a degreaser, in a 1 gal. “purple” jug. I typically use a spackling trough, and set the body in full strength Super Clean. Use an old toothbrush, to scrub into the crevices. Just use rubber gloves, as the Super Clean will dry your skin out. Otherwise, it is safe to use.


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

teledoc said:


> It appears to be the 3252 loco, but not 100% sure, until I get back home from vacation. If it is the 3252 loco, it shows up on the Ives Train website, in the color Green. I can get more specific when I get access to my books. As far as stripping the Gold paint, I have great success with Castrol Super Clean, which is a degreaser, in a 1 gal. “purple” jug. I typically use a sparkling trough, and set the body in full strength Super Clean. Use an old toothbrush, to scrub into the crevices. Just use rubber gloves, as the Super Clean will dry your skin out. Otherwise, it is safe to use.


Thanks for the info. I will look for the Ives Train website, and get to work on the paint removal. Any info on where to obtain a correct green - and even decals when needed - would be appreciated as well.


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

If you want to check the Ives train website, it is www.ivestrains.org, but it is a little tricky navigating through it, for searching.


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

teledoc said:


> If you want to check the Ives train website, it is www.ivestrains.org, but it is a little tricky navigating through it, for searching.


Thanks again. I think I have a 3252 Series 1, but I like the red/maroon color scheme better than the green, so I may go for that. Also, a guy on eBay sells custom decals for this loco.

I’ll post pictures of the finished locomotive. From a search on the net, it seems that a lot of folks restore their Ives trains, so I am in good company!


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## beachhead2 (Oct 31, 2017)

In my experience, the paint comes off pretty easily.

You can definitely use rattle cans. Your finish will look much nicer if you bake it. I use a large cardboard box and a 100w bulb as my "oven". Set it in there between coats to dry. Follow the instructions on the can for dry times. It should come out super glossy. Good luck.


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

If it were me, I would:

Have it sand blasted (prepares the metal for excellent adhesion w/o primer and a smooth paint finish - fixes little nicks, etc.). And I'd do the chassis as well.

Rattlecan will work well. For glossy finish, practice before repainting the loco.

Google 3252 images. I see both green and red. I'd match the cars.

Search eBay and you'll find water slide decals with gold lettering to finish the restoration. "Ives Railway", "3252", etc.

Your missing the grab rails that wrap around the front and back of the loco. I don't have a part # or source for that part. You may be able to fashion them from some stainless steel rod. See this *LINK*.


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

I completely disassemble the loco. 
Next I glass bead sandblast all of the parts that I want to repaint.
I use Krylon spray Lacquer. I spray the underside or inside of all the parts first. BTW, I do not use a primer. Do not let the parts dry. Immediately place the parts into a toaster over at 160 degrees for 30 minutes. Let those parts cool until you can handle them. I try not to touch them with bare hands. I then spray the parts that show. Then into the oven for 30 minutes at 160 Degrees.
Once cool, I add all of the decals. Then I will spray the parts that show with either a Semi, or Gloss clear lacquer. This protects the decals. Do not bake at this point.
I add a label inside that states it's restored.

Dan


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

beachhead2 said:


> In my experience, the paint comes off pretty easily.
> 
> You can definitely use rattle cans. Your finish will look much nicer if you bake it. I use a large cardboard box and a 100w bulb as my "oven". Set it in there between coats to dry. Follow the instructions on the can for dry times. It should come out super glossy. Good luck.


This is a very interesting idea, and I may try it. I guess it mimics the baked enamel look of the original. Probably less texture on the finish too - which I am used to seeing on my plastic models. Thanks!


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

Millstonemike said:


> If it were me, I would:
> 
> Have it sand blasted (prepares the metal for excellent adhesion w/o primer and a smooth paint finish - fixes little nicks, etc.). And I'd do the chassis as well.
> 
> ...


I think sand blasting might be a bit out of my comfort zone. Would sanding the metal before painting accomplish the same thing?

And I did eventually notice that all the handrails are missing. I also don’t know if I’m good enough to fashion new ones, so I was thinking of filling the holes with Bondo or something and attempting to smooth them out, at least. I will post updates as I go along on this project. And I thank you for the excellent input.


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

Panther said:


> I completely disassemble the loco.
> Next I glass bead sandblast all of the parts that I want to repaint.
> I use Krylon spray Lacquer. I spray the underside or inside of all the parts first. BTW, I do not use a primer. Do not let the parts dry. Immediately place the parts into a toaster over at 160 degrees for 30 minutes. Let those parts cool until you can handle them. I try not to touch them with bare hands. I then spray the parts that show. Then into the oven for 30 minutes at 160 Degrees.
> Once cool, I add all of the decals. Then I will spray the parts that show with either a Semi, or Gloss clear lacquer. This protects the decals. Do not bake at this point.
> I add a label inside that states it's restored.


Wow - Your restorations are museum-quality masterworks! No way I am going to achieve that level of skill and artistry. But I am going to attempt the oven drying, which is a concept I never thought of, and might really help the finish. Thanks for your input - your toy trains are amazing!


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

You received excellent advice on refinishing you loco. Considering the passenger cars are Red, the obvious choice is a Red loco. The 3252 was made 1917-1925, and two colors listed were Dark Red, & Red, along with 4 other colors. You can use rattle can spray paint, and decide which brand you prefer. My personal preference is Krylon, as opposed to Rustoleum. The Krylon comes in a few different shades of Red. I suggest trying it on something like a metal can, to compare the color to the passenger cars, for a close match. You also need to get .062 Brass handrail, from the major suppliers of parts, along with cotter pin “handrail” stanchions. Depending on your method of stripping the paint, make sure to wipe the body down with isopropyl alcohol before painting, to remove any oils from handling. It should turn out well.


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

Thank you for the very kind comments. I really love the Marx trains. I also make all my own decals from scratch with Photostacker pro a graphics program I purchased 20 years ago. I don't think it exists anymore.

Either method will work for drying the pain. The Bulb with the Cardboard box, or the toaster oven. The only advantage to the toaster over I can see, is the finish will be extremely smooth. The heat actually helps the paint to flow to an even finish. I never get blotchy or spotty finish.

Dan


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

LostInHoboken said:


> I think sand blasting might be a bit out of my comfort zone. Would sanding the metal before painting accomplish the same thing?
> 
> And I did eventually notice that all the handrails are missing. I also don’t know if I’m good enough to fashion new ones, so I was thinking of filling the holes with Bondo or something and attempting to smooth them out, at least. I will post updates as I go along on this project. And I thank you for the excellent input.


I would suggest a paint remover, and steel wool to clean uyp. Sandpaper I fear would leave scratches that paint won't cover.
The rails are really not difficult to duplicate. Fins a photo, go to the hardware store for stiff wire of the correct gauge. Use two pair of pliers to bend the wire to shape. The standoffs on Marx locos are cotter pins.

Dan


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

Panther said:


> I would suggest a paint remover, and steel wool to clean uyp. Sandpaper I fear would leave scratches that paint won't cover.
> The rails are really not difficult to duplicate. Fins a photo, go to the hardware store for stiff wire of the correct gauge. Use two pair of pliers to bend the wire to shape. The standoffs on Marx locos are cotter pins.
> 
> Dan


What he said ....

If your worried that the metal won't stand up to sandblasting, that's not an issue. 

Here's some 1920's Lionel tinplate: Original paint, sandblasted, and painted with Rustoleum rattle can satin blues and gloss white. Gloss gives the smoothest finish.


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

teledoc said:


> You received excellent advice on refinishing you loco. Considering the passenger cars are Red, the obvious choice is a Red loco. The 3252 was made 1917-1925, and two colors listed were Dark Red, & Red, along with 4 other colors. You can use rattle can spray paint, and decide which brand you prefer. My personal preference is Krylon, as opposed to Rustoleum. The Krylon comes in a few different shades of Red. I suggest trying it on something like a metal can, to compare the color to the passenger cars, for a close match. You also need to get .062 Brass handrail, from the major suppliers of parts, along with cotter pin “handrail” stanchions. Depending on your method of stripping the paint, make sure to wipe the body down with isopropyl alcohol before painting, to remove any oils from handling. It should turn out well.


Yes, the more I get into this project, the more I think I owe it to the memory of my father to do what I can to bring it back to life. I might even try to fashion handrails from wire, although keeping wire straight around those end curves will be tricky. I will post progress pix when I tackle the thing.

I will definitely go with some sort of dark red for the loco color.


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

Panther said:


> Thank you for the very kind comments. I really love the Marx trains. I also make all my own decals from scratch with Photostacker pro a graphics program I purchased 20 years ago. I don't think it exists anymore.
> 
> Either method will work for drying the pain. The Bulb with the Cardboard box, or the toaster oven. The only advantage to the toaster over I can see, is the finish will be extremely smooth. The heat actually helps the paint to flow to an even finish. I never get blotchy or spotty finish.


Your restored toy trains are absolutely amazing. The era of Tinplate Trains was a wonderful moment in time, and my father used to wax nostalgic about his Lionel and Ives trains sets. Marx was also a terrific brand, as I know from some of the toys I had when I was a small kid. By the time I got into model railroading in the early 1960s, it was HO Scale and primarily metal and plastic trains. But I do appreciate the hardy souls such as yourself who keep that era alive with your skills and artistry. I am a fumblethumbs by comparison, but I’ll do what I can.

And I am intrigued to try the baking of the paint finish, which was a completely new concept to me. I think for my situation, the cardboard box with the light bulb will be the easiest to arrange.


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

Panther said:


> I would suggest a paint remover, and steel wool to clean uyp. Sandpaper I fear would leave scratches that paint won't cover.
> The rails are really not difficult to duplicate. Fins a photo, go to the hardware store for stiff wire of the correct gauge. Use two pair of pliers to bend the wire to shape. The standoffs on Marx locos are cotter pins.


Paint remover and steel wool sounds like about my speed. Honestly, I wouldn’t even know how to make a sand blasting setup. And yes, now that I think about it, sandpaper might leave visible grain. Funny, I haven’t thought about steel wool in years.

As for the rails, I think I owe it a try at least. Keeping wire straight has never been my forte, but I might as well give it a shot. Cotter pin stays sound doable.

Thanks again for the invaluable advice and encouragement.


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

Millstonemike said:


> What he said ....
> 
> If your worried that the metal won't stand up to sandblasting, that's not an issue.
> 
> Here's some 1920's Lionel tinplate: Original paint, sandblasted, and painted with Rustoleum rattle can satin blues and gloss white. Gloss gives the smoothest finish.


Well, your restored Monmouth Beach parlor car is a true work of art. If I can achieve a fraction of that quality, I will die a happy man!


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

teledoc said:


> You also need to get .062 Brass handrail, from the major suppliers of parts, along with cotter pin “handrail” stanchions.


So, brass would be more authentic than steel wire? Is it more or less workable?


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

LostInHoboken said:


> Well, your restored Monmouth Beach parlor car is a true work of art. If I can achieve a fraction of that quality, I will die a happy man!


Agreed great work.

Hoboken;
It's not magic. Take your time. Practice painting on scrap piece of metal. 

Dan


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

Panther said:


> It's not magic. Take your time.


I have some experience painting plastic models, so I am familiar with the basic concepts. But, I have never tackled anything metal, never tried to bake enamel, never restored handrails, etc., so I will definitely be flying outside of my comfort zone. And the results from someone who really knows their stuff does look like magic!


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

LostInHoboken said:


> I have some experience painting plastic models, so I am familiar with the basic concepts. But, I have never tackled anything metal, never tried to bake enamel, never restored handrails, etc., so I will definitely be flying outside of my comfort zone. And the results from someone who really knows their stuff does look like magic!


If you are happy with your plastic models, you will be ecstatic about the metal ones.
Baked paint on metal looks fabulous.

Dan


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

The handrails would probably be better in nickel, versus brass. It Your existing bell, and most likely the strap headlight are nickel. As far as bending the handrail, you could use a piece of scrap wood, and put nails in correct spacing, for bending the radius. By using a wood base, with nails, you are keeping the handrail flat, against the board. Hope you can visualize the procedure.

To get the idea, do a search, (on toolbar above), for Back in the Saddle — Lionel 258 Revamp, and scroll to post #19. Here is Photo courtesy of Tjcruiser, on his 258 loco revamp.


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

LostInHoboken said:


> I have some experience painting plastic models, so I am familiar with the basic concepts. But, I have never tackled anything metal, never tried to bake enamel, never restored handrails, etc., so I will definitely be flying outside of my comfort zone. And the results from someone who really knows their stuff does look like magic!


I like Panther's suggestion of two pliers to bend the hand rails. Strong needle nose will get the sharpest bends. If you can't find nickel stock locally, Go to my post with a link for stainless steel wire and check out the product. They're cheap and the stainless steel will closely match the nickel bell and stainless steel cotter pins (HD). The only issue, you'll have to wait for the "slow boat from China" to get the stainless rods (4+ weeks).

Another trick: keep the bends slightly less that 90 deg. That will exert some pressure keeping the handrail taught with the body. You can practice your bending technique on shirt hangers from the dry cleaner. 

Here's the Lionel version of your Ives loco. Really only two bends on each handrail that show (and two "kinks" at the ends that "snap" into the body.


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

An offer ...

You can ship it USPS to me and pay return postage. I'll blast it for you. ~$8 each way but you won't need to buy paint stripper nor steel wool.


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

Millstonemike said:


> An offer ...
> 
> You can ship it USPS to me and pay return postage. I'll blast it for you. ~$8 each way but you won't need to buy paint stripper nor steel wool.


Thank you - very kind of you. I’ll take it under consideration. Part of me wants to try the steel wool route, yet another part...


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

Panther said:


> If you are happy with your plastic models, you will be ecstatic about the metal ones.
> Baked paint on metal looks fabulous.


That part, I am looking forward to!


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

teledoc said:


> The handrails would probably be better in nickel, versus brass. It Your existing bell, and most likely the strap headlight are nickel. As far as bending the handrail, you could use a piece of scrap wood, and put nails in correct spacing, for bending the radius. By using a wood base, with nails, you are keeping the handrail flat, against the board. Hope you can visualize the procedure.
> 
> To get the idea, do a search, (on toolbar above), for Back in the Saddle — Lionel 258 Revamp, and scroll to post #19. Here is Photo courtesy of Tjcruiser, on his 258 loco revamp.


Yes, the bell and strap look like nickel. I think what I was picturing was getting a roll of craft wire, and having a hell of a time getting the wire to straighten out, before I even got to the corner bending.

So, what I’m looking for is straight nickel stock? What gauge?


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

Millstonemike said:


> I like Panther's suggestion of two pliers to bend the hand rails. Strong needle nose will get the sharpest bends. If you can't find nickel stock locally, Go to my post with a link for stainless steel wire and check out the product. They're cheap and the stainless steel will closely match the nickel bell and stainless steel cotter pins (HD). The only issue, you'll have to wait for the "slow boat from China" to get the stainless rods (4+ weeks).


I hadn’t seen that link in your post the first time around. Now I get it. I’ll be using steel rod, and bending it as needed using a homemade jig. I think I can do this. And I have no problem waiting for the post from China - I do it all the time with hobby supplies from eBay. Thanks - another great help!


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Lost, The handrail that is used is .062 diameter nickel rods, 12" long, which are available from Jeff Kane, www.ttender.com, plus he can give you the correct cotter pins, for the stanchions, to hold the top horizontal sections in place. Look up his website, and you can call him direct, for any advice. He is great to work with. Also, the price for the nickel handrail is $1.25 each, and to be safe, get four. I suggest making a jig, to get the initial bends, and then you can use pliers/needlenose to make sharper bends, if you desire. It's your choice.


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

teledoc said:


> Lost, The handrail that is used is .062 diameter nickel rods, 12" long, which are available from Jeff Kane, www.ttender.com, plus he can give you the correct cotter pins, for the stanchions, to hold the top horizontal sections in place. Look up his website, and you can call him direct, for any advice. He is great to work with. Also, the price for the nickel handrail is $1.25 each, and to be safe, get four. I suggest making a jig, to get the initial bends, and then you can use pliers/needlenose to make sharper bends, if you desire. It's your choice.


Excellent, thank you!


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

teledoc said:


> Lost, The handrail that is used is .062 diameter nickel rods, 12" long, which are available from Jeff Kane, www.ttender.com, plus he can give you the correct cotter pins, for the stanchions, to hold the top horizontal sections in place. Look up his website, and you can call him direct, for any advice. He is great to work with. Also, the price for the nickel handrail is $1.25 each, and to be safe, get four. I suggest making a jig, to get the initial bends, and then you can use pliers/needlenose to make sharper bends, if you desire. It's your choice.


Since you may order from Jeff you'll have to pay shipping. You might want to get into the motor, etc. before ordering - all the required replacement parts in one shipment. 

For example, if you think the strap headlight can't be saved, Jeff may have a replacement unit ...


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Along the lines of Millstonemike’s recent post, the subject of the motor/running gear never came up. The cosmetics have been well answered. Have you checked the running condition of your loco? If any parts are needed, it would be useful to get a list and make one order. We anticipate seeing the finished restoration. Just take your time.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Just seeing this thread, and chiming in with TJ's two cents ...

Fully disassemble, carefully bending tabs open. Remove trim. Separate all pieces.

Strip via Heavy Duty Oven Cleaner ... two baths soaked for an hour or so each in a double-layer of tin-foil lasagna pans. Do outside with fumes. Rinse / dry.

Get several STAINLESS wire brushes for a Dremel ... 530-02, I think. Take your time, but go over every tiny inch/crevace of the stripped steel ... inside and outside of shell pieces. End result should be super-clean virgin steel ... no rusty coloration, no spider-veins of rust. Take your time here. Wipe down with denatured alcohol afterwards.

Prop pieces up individually using bent coat hanger pieces poked into pink insulation foam. Keep pieces 1.5" to 2" off of the foam surface.

Spray with Krylon primer. A couple of light coats. Dry and flip to do both outside and inside. Let dry overnight.

Rub down very very lightly with a fine-grit Scotchbrite pad ... this will just kiss the primer to remove any surface bumps/dust. Wipe down with alcohol. Let dry.

Prop up again on coat hangers ... INSIDE facing up. Spray with topcoat ... I'm very happy with Krylon here. Light coats, 10 minutes apart, outside ... sunny day, but not in direct sunlight. Let dry. Flip to OUTSIDE out. Repeat for topcoat there.

Let dry a day or two. Don't touch, though you will be tempted!

As needed, lightly sand any thick buildup on any tab, as needed, to gently have it fit into its slot. Reassembly, bending (or twisting) tabs into lock position. Recoat bend tabs with a toothpick drop of matching paint.

As needed, reinstall trim on components before full assembly, if that's the logical access sequence.

For trim, I strip with Dremel stainless, polish a bit, and then clearcoat with Airplane Dope. It's super clear and hard, and will not yellow or crack. I've tried other clearcoats (polyurethane, laquer, etc.), but they all crack with time. Dope has done me well.

Enjoy!

TJ


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Jerry -- I thought that handrail bend jig looked a bit familiar!



TJ


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

TJ, Have to post some of these useful tips every so often. It takes individuals that think outside of the box, with coming up with simple solutions to problems. The likes of T-Man, yourself, and a few others, the solutions are there, with some creative thinking. That’s what make Tinplate Prewar so much fun.:smilie_daumenpos:


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

No one method will work best for everyone. Experiment with different ideas until you feel you are comfortable with any system that works for you. Many ideas here, I plan to try to see if they are quicker, or easier than the methods I currently use.
The oven cleaner or chemical paint remover may work best for those that do not have access to a sandblast booth. I emphasize glass bead sandblast because it is the least invasive medium. The beads are just like they say BEADS, where Sand Blast is different degrees of coarseness of actual sand particles. Glass bead leaves a smooth surface, Sand leaves a rougher surface.
The sandblast cabinet I use was originally built by my Dad. I updated with foot pedal and air valves to make it easier to use.
Google and see if it may be feasible for you to build one. It has many uses. One is removing rust from tools left to the elements. 

Dan


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

tjcruiser said:


> Just seeing this thread, and chiming in with TJ's two cents ...
> 
> Fully disassemble, carefully bending tabs open. Remove trim. Separate all pieces.
> 
> ...


The Dremel cleaning is a terrific idea - thanks!


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

Panther said:


> No one method will work best for everyone. Experiment with different ideas until you feel you are comfortable with any system that works for you. Many ideas here, I plan to try to see if they are quicker, or easier than the methods I currently use.
> The oven cleaner or chemical paint remover may work best for those that do not have access to a sandblast booth. I emphasize glass bead sandblast because it is the least invasive medium. The beads are just like they say BEADS, where Sand Blast is different degrees of coarseness of actual sand particles. Glass bead leaves a smooth surface, Sand leaves a rougher surface.
> The sandblast cabinet I use was originally built by my Dad. I updated with foot pedal and air valves to make it easier to use.
> Google and see if it may be feasible for you to build one. It has many uses. One is removing rust from tools left to the elements.
> ...


I feel that some sort of solvent paint remover is going to be my solution to this problem, at least. I will keep updates when I start this project, which will hopefully be early July.


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

teledoc said:


> Along the lines of Millstonemike’s recent post, the subject of the motor/running gear never came up. The cosmetics have been well answered. Have you checked the running condition of your loco? If any parts are needed, it would be useful to get a list and make one order. We anticipate seeing the finished restoration. Just take your time.


The last time I ran this train, which was under the Xmas Tree circa 1990, the thing did run, although a bit on the slow and jerky side. I wasn’t even planning to tackle the motor issues this time around, as I will be happy with a pretty display model. But, if the shell restoration comes out well, it may inspire me to check out the motor.


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

The motor probably needs a good cleaning, along with some lubrication, with the moving parts. Also clean the commutator, plus new brushes. I am attaching a diagram of an Ives motor, with a manual reversing unit, which your loco has installed. That is the lever that is sticking outside of the frame.


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

teledoc said:


> The motor probably needs a good cleaning, along with some lubrication, with the moving parts. Also clean the commutator, plus new brushes. I am attaching a diagram of an Ives motor, with a manual reversing unit, which your loco has installed. That is the lever that is sticking outside of the frame.


Cleaning and lubricating I think I can handle. Replacing brushes sounds a bit difficult. Hopefully the cleaning/lubrication will bring it up to snuff.


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

Depending on the state of the motor ....

Use CRC, Goo Gone or TV tuner cleaner and saturate the loco to remove all old, hardened oil/dirt/grease. You can do this over newspaper while the engine is running. Use a light oil (sewing machine, 3-in-1, etc) and lube the axle bearings and the commutator spindle. Use grease on the gears (many like 5W oil for that).

These motors are fairly simple and replacing the brushes is not hard. If ordering from Jeff, get a pair of brushes.

An important part is the commutator. With the brush plate removed, clean the face with CRC and a Q-tip. Use a toothpick to gently clean between each commutator face. A pencil eraser can be used for hard to remove deposits.

I think this is your motor ...


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

Millstonemike said:


> Depending on the state of the motor ....
> 
> Use CRC, Goo Gone or TV tuner cleaner and saturate the loco to remove all old, hardened oil/dirt/grease. You can do this over newspaper while the engine is running. Use a light oil (sewing machine, 3-in-1, etc) and lube the axle bearings and the commutator spindle. Use grease on the gears (many like 5W oil for that).
> 
> ...


Yes, that looks like it. The gearing works well, but the brushes are shot. Assuming they slide in and out easily, that should not be a problem.


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

Okay, I opened her up. Motor is in pretty good shape, although I will need new brushes. Looking inside the shell, I can verify it’s a 3252, and was originally in deep red. On to paint removal...


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

LostInHoboken said:


> The Dremel cleaning is a terrific idea - thanks!


Do watch out for tiny bristles from the stainless brush that will inevitably shoot out from the hub and find some means (one way or the other) to poke themselves obtrusively into your foot, thumb, etc.

Be prepared to have several fresh brushes on hand. I'll go through 3 or 4 on a typical loco shell. The 532-02 works great, too, for getting into tiny crevasses and corners.

TJ


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

OK, I'm gonna tout my manhood and boldly speak up, where others may not ...

That motor is just plain SEXY! I am lovin' the curves on that brushplate holder!



TJ


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

tjcruiser said:


> OK, I'm gonna tout my manhood and boldly speak up, where others may not ...
> 
> That motor is just plain SEXY! I am lovin' the curves on that brushplate holder!
> 
> ...


Agreed! “When motors were motors...”


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

tjcruiser said:


> Do watch out for tiny bristles from the stainless brush that will inevitably shoot out from the hub and find some means (one way or the other) to poke themselves obtrusively into your foot, thumb, etc.
> 
> Be prepared to have several fresh brushes on hand. I'll go through 3 or 4 on a typical loco shell. The 532-02 works great, too, for getting into tiny crevasses and corners.
> 
> TJ


I have to see what brushes I have “in stock.” Also toying with the idea of steel wool, which someone mentioned...


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

When I rebuild a Marx motor, I disassemble it down as far as possible. I then soak all the parts in Carburetor cleaner for 30 minutes MAXIMUM. Every part will come out looking absolutely new. I the use soapy warm water and a brush to clean them. I then rinse them in clean water and use compressed air to blow off the water.
The only part I do not place into the carburetor cleaner is the E Unit coil. 

Dan


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

Nice. So the carb cleaner doesn't affect the armature winding enamel?

I blasted a tin plate chassis and rinsed it in water to remove all the sand. I shook it off and then immediately placed it in a hot oven. Rust started to develop by the time is was dry.

Now I use 91% alcohol in a spray bottle to rinse parts. It's cheap and it's in my local supermarket.


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

No it does not effect the winding's. I also want to make it clear I do not exceed 30 minutes, and I clean them immediately. I let the parts drip in the dunking basket after removing it from the carburetor cleaned. once pretty much stopped dripping I place the basket into a plastic coffee can with warm soapy water. I the rinse the parts in clean water as I brush them off. I immediately blow them off with air, and place them into a small container with paper towels. 
I completely disassemble the E-Unit and unsolder the coil. I re-wrap the coil with new tape, and set aside until ready to put it all back together. A helpful hint. If the wire to the coil is broken off at the coil body itself, after you remove the tape you can unwind a bit of the wire to make up for what is broken off, onew wind is usually enough. If it's the center wire next to the core, you can also add a bit of wire at that point and save the coil. 
If you look at the third rail pickup it appears to be almost new. What I do is place it bottom side down on a flat block of metal. I the use a Flat faced punch to flatten out the grooves from the back side. I the go back and fill in the back portion with a bit of solder in case at some point it gets worn completely through the copper, it won't have a hole. I then run the third rail pickup across a medium grit sponge centered sanding block. then over scotchbrite to polish. The pickups will look like new. You can see in the photos at the blue arrows where it didn't get completely pounded out. But still makes a big difference in the finished appearance. The entire part will come out of the carburetor cleaner looking like new but all the dings and wear are still present. 

Dan


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

Panther said:


> No it does not effect the winding's. I also want to make it clear I do not exceed 30 minutes, and I clean them immediately. I let the parts drip in the dunking basket after removing it from the carburetor cleaned. once pretty much stopped dripping I place the basket into a plastic coffee can with warm soapy water. I the rinse the parts in clean water as I brush them off. I immediately blow them off with air, and place them into a small container with paper towels.
> I completely disassemble the E-Unit and unsolder the coil. I re-wrap the coil with new tape, and set aside until ready to put it all back together. A helpful hint. If the wire to the coil is broken off at the coil body itself, after you remove the tape you can unwind a bit of the wire to make up for what is broken off, onew wind is usually enough. If it's the center wire next to the core, you can also add a bit of wire at that point and save the coil.
> If you look at the third rail pickup it appears to be almost new. What I do is place it bottom side down on a flat block of metal. I the use a Flat faced punch to flatten out the grooves from the back side. I the go back and fill in the back portion with a bit of solder in case at some point it gets worn completely through the copper, it won't have a hole. I then run the third rail pickup across a medium grit sponge centered sanding block. then over scotchbrite to polish. The pickups will look like new. You can see in the photos at the blue arrows where it didn't get completely pounded out. But still makes a big difference in the finished appearance. The entire part will come out of the carburetor cleaner looking like new but all the dings and wear are still present.
> 
> Dan


All solid tips from well honed experience.


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

Panther said:


> No it does not effect the winding's. I also want to make it clear I do not exceed 30 minutes, and I clean them immediately. I let the parts drip in the dunking basket after removing it from the carburetor cleaned. once pretty much stopped dripping I place the basket into a plastic coffee can with warm soapy water. I the rinse the parts in clean water as I brush them off. I immediately blow them off with air, and place them into a small container with paper towels.
> I completely disassemble the E-Unit and unsolder the coil. I re-wrap the coil with new tape, and set aside until ready to put it all back together. A helpful hint. If the wire to the coil is broken off at the coil body itself, after you remove the tape you can unwind a bit of the wire to make up for what is broken off, onew wind is usually enough. If it's the center wire next to the core, you can also add a bit of wire at that point and save the coil.
> If you look at the third rail pickup it appears to be almost new. What I do is place it bottom side down on a flat block of metal. I the use a Flat faced punch to flatten out the grooves from the back side. I the go back and fill in the back portion with a bit of solder in case at some point it gets worn completely through the copper, it won't have a hole. I then run the third rail pickup across a medium grit sponge centered sanding block. then over scotchbrite to polish. The pickups will look like new. You can see in the photos at the blue arrows where it didn't get completely pounded out. But still makes a big difference in the finished appearance. The entire part will come out of the carburetor cleaner looking like new but all the dings and wear are still present.
> 
> Dan


I may or may not have the intestinal fortitude to do a motor deep cleaning. We will have to see how far I get with the cosmetics. But thanks for sharing this info - it might come in handy after all.


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

Paint removal, pass #1.


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

A lot of tarnish underneath - probably why my pop repainted it!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Panther -- great tips!

Hoboken -- You're halfway there! Nice work! If you're game and patient, the Dremel stainless brush will polish that right up. Here's one of mine ... first just after strip; second after stainless brush ...

Cheers,

TJ


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

tjcruiser said:


> Panther -- great tips!
> 
> Hoboken -- You're halfway there! Nice work! If you're game and patient, the Dremel stainless brush will polish that right up. Here's one of mine ... first just after strip; second after stainless brush ...
> 
> ...


Yes, I did manage to shine her up pretty nice with a combination of steel wool and some Dremel brushing. Already put a mist coat on the shell, and put it in my homemade box oven for a half hour. Not sure if I had the shell in long enough, but I don’t know that it matters too much at this point? I’m going to try for a couple more coats this weekend, and going to try longer “baking” times. Is an hour inside the oven too long? Using a 150 watt bulb. Hopefully I’ll have photos soon.

PS Your cleanup looks terrific!


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

LostInHoboken said:


> Yes, I did manage to shine her up pretty nice with a combination of steel wool and some Dremel brushing. Already put a mist coat on the shell, and put it in my homemade box oven for a half hour. Not sure if I had the shell in long enough, but I don’t know that it matters too much at this point? I’m going to try for a couple more coats this weekend, and going to try longer “baking” times. Is an hour inside the oven too long? Using a 150 watt bulb. Hopefully I’ll have photos soon.
> 
> PS Your cleanup looks terrific!


You could poke an oven meat thermometer into the box to gauge the baking temp. From what I've read here, my perception is 150 to 200 deg F is the right range. Others may have better info. I use a box in the summer sun ... more like a "quick dry" rather than a bake.


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

Millstonemike said:


> You could poke an oven meat thermometer into the box to gauge the baking temp. From what I've read here, my perception is 150 to 200 deg F is the right range. Others may have better info. I use a box in the summer sun ... more like a "quick dry" rather than a bake.


Actually, a box in the sun is not a bad idea - it’s blazing here today!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Are you using Krylon primer and paint, by chance? That stuff dries pretty quickly, especially if you spray outside. Very hot this weekend, as noted, so I think you're cure will go pretty quick ... even without an oven.

Reiterating my tip to give the last primer coat (after cure) a very, very light rub-down with a fine ScotchBrite pad (and then wipe with barely-moist alcohol on lint-free rag) before top-coat painting. The rub-down will take off any highs and imperfections in the primer, and prep things nicely for paint.

Good luck!

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Spray cans need the shake shake, shake, shake. I normally spray a test subject with a new can. A used can gives me better results. Especially something like a locomotive shell.


I never used an oven or a box. In cool weather painting I will use a heat gun on the item before and after. The expansion of the spray lowers the temperature so the heat brings it up to a healthy cure temp.


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

T-Man said:


> Spray cans need the shake shake, shake, shake. ...


Words of wisdom. Shake it more than you think is necessary - side to side, upside down, different positions and shake technique. I like to roll the ball around the bottom to start.

And I always make sure the can is room temp (not really an issue in the summer).


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

tjcruiser said:


> Are you using Krylon primer and paint, by chance? That stuff dries pretty quickly, especially if you spray outside. Very hot this weekend, as noted, so I think you're cure will go pretty quick ... even without an oven.
> 
> Reiterating my tip to give the last primer coat (after cure) a very, very light rub-down with a fine ScotchBrite pad (and then wipe with barely-moist alcohol on lint-free rag) before top-coat painting. The rub-down will take off any highs and imperfections in the primer, and prep things nicely for paint.
> 
> ...


I am using Krylon Colormaxx (Deep Burgundy), which is supposed to be "Paint & Primer in One." So far, after three coats, I can still clearly see tarnish spots I was unable to buff out. So, I wish I had started with a regular primer to get the shell undercoat consistent. But I imagine if I put on enough coats, all will be well... Nothing to do now but carry on!


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

Millstonemike said:


> Words of wisdom. Shake it more than you think is necessary - side to side, upside down, different positions and shake technique. I like to roll the ball around the bottom to start.
> 
> And I always make sure the can is room temp (not really an issue in the summer).


Adequate spray can shaking is one of the few things about painting that I do get right! The toughest things for me are 1/ spraying too much or too thickly, and 2/ having the patience for waiting the 48 hours between coats! I've ruined more plastic models this way...


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Patience is the key, and I would have used a primer coat first, instead of relying on the 1 primer+paint combined in one. The standard of gray or red primer is best when restoring a body in the condition you are dealing with. Just take your time, and don’t rush it.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I not crazy about the primer included with paint. I do prime everything. Thin paint works best.


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

teledoc said:


> Patience is the key, and I would have used a primer coat first, instead of relying on the 1 primer+paint combined in one. The standard of gray or red primer is best when restoring a body in the condition you are dealing with. Just take your time, and don’t rush it.


Yes, if I had to do it over again, I would have started with a nice gray primer, like I do on ALL of my plastic models. Live and learn. Lots and lots of thin color coats should work, eventually...


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

T-Man said:


> I not crazy about the primer included with paint. I do prime everything. Thin paint works best.


From what I can see so far, this Krylon stuff is THIN! As long as I don't rush it, and resign myself to multiple coats, I think it will work out in the end.


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

LostInHoboken said:


> Adequate spray can shaking is one of the few things about painting that I do get right! The toughest things for me are 1/ spraying too much or too thickly, and 2/ having the patience for waiting the 48 hours between coats! I've ruined more plastic models this way...


I never wait long periods between coats. In warm weather, thin coats dry sufficiently in 15 to 20 min.'s for another coat without any sagging. 

Rustoleum rattle can directions say apply a second coat within 1 hour. I saw a YouTube video from a "pro" that reinforced quickly applying second coats (he also said not to be 12 to 16" away from the piece - the paint starts drying before hitting the surface). Start spraying before the piece and move past it in one motion.

For me, I set up outside, spray a coat and top with a box to keep any airborne debris off the paint. 15 - 20 mins later I repeat the process. Three or four thin coats can be done in about an hour. That's the process I used on the Monmouth Beach passenger car.


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

Millstonemike said:


> I never wait long periods between coats. In warm weather, thin coats dry sufficiently in 15 to 20 min.'s for another coat without any sagging.
> 
> Rustoleum rattle can directions say apply a second coat within 1 hour. I saw a YouTube video from a "pro" that reinforced quickly applying second coats (he also said not to be 12 to 16" away from the piece - the paint starts drying before hitting the surface). Start spraying before the piece and move past it in one motion.
> 
> For me, I set up outside, spray a coat and top with a box to keep any airborne debris off the paint. 15 - 20 mins later I repeat the process. Three or four thin coats can be done in about an hour. That's the process I used on the Monmouth Beach passenger car.


This is great advice, thank you! I was always confused by the “wait 2 hours, or 48 hours” instructions on these spray cans. I guess the short term is for the paint to “set” and the longer, for it to fully cure?

Anyway, after looking at my progress thus far, I decided to bite the bullet and start all over. Stripped the new paint, rebuffed with steel wool and Dremel brushes, and applied good old Testors Gray primer. Already it looks better.


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

Air dried spray paint scratches VERY EASILY. 
The reason I bake my spray paint when applied to a metal base, the heat opens the pores of the metal, allowing the paint to adhere to the metal better, plus it removes all of the solvents in the paint rapidly which also make the paint harder. Air dried spray paint is not completely dry for at least 3 days. In cooler weather even longer. I also do not paint in cold environments. Restoration of tinplate is usually reserved for the summer months.
JMHO, YMMV.

Dan


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

Millstonemike said:


> Since you may order from Jeff you'll have to pay shipping. You might want to get into the motor, etc. before ordering - all the required replacement parts in one shipment.
> 
> For example, if you think the strap headlight can't be saved, Jeff may have a replacement unit ...
> 
> View attachment 500190


On the locomotive once you get the headlight fixture nailed down, use a bulb like the one in the attached photo. It really adds to the design in my opinion.

Dan


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

Panther said:


> Air dried spray paint scratches VERY EASILY.
> The reason I bake my spray paint when applied to a metal base, the heat opens the pores of the metal, allowing the paint to adhere to the metal better, plus it removes all of the solvents in the paint rapidly which also make the paint harder. Air dried spray paint is not completely dry for at least 3 days. In cooler weather even longer. I also do not paint in cold environments. Restoration of tinplate is usually reserved for the summer months.
> JMHO, YMMV.
> 
> Dan


I applied 3 coats of primer, visually it covered all the tarnish and anomalies, but my paint-baking skills must stink because I got just as much orange peel/rough texture as I do when letting plastic models dry in my makeshift spray booth. So add “bad baker” to my long list of non-skills.

Going to let the primer cure for 3 days as you suggest, and then do a very light sanding to smooth out the finish. Then I will attempt the top coat(s) again.

I am resigned to the fact that this isn’t going to look remotely like the finish you experts get, but it will still be better (hopefully) than that god-awful hand-painted gold which the poor loco was stuck with for about a hundred years!

I may have mentioned, I did receive custom 3252 decals from a seller on eBay, plus I have steel rods for handrails coming in from China, so the locomotive might end up looking like a reasonable facsimile of the original toy.


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

Hey, today is “Prime Day,” get it?


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

LostInHoboken said:


> I applied 3 coats of primer, visually it covered all the tarnish and anomalies, but my paint-baking skills must stink because I got just as much orange peel/rough texture as I do when letting plastic models dry in my makeshift spray booth. So add “bad baker” to my long list of non-skills.
> 
> Going to let the primer cure for 3 days as you suggest, and then do a very light sanding to smooth out the finish. Then I will attempt the top coat(s) again.
> 
> ...


I think you misunderstood my post.
First I was pointing out the fact that spray paint is not completely dry for 3 days. THAT IS WHY I DO NOT AIR DRY MY PAINT. Dry in a toaster oven 30 minutes at 160 Degrees.

Second If you read I said DO NOT PRIME THE METAL.

It appears you have selected parts of several suggestions. Try one method, if it doesn't work try another one.

Dan


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Good point Dan with sticking to one method. Your finished paint jobs come out fantastic. That is one reason I backed off on adding to suggestions. His finished product will be a whole lot better than his starting point.


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

Panther said:


> I think you misunderstood my post.
> First I was pointing out the fact that spray paint is not completely dry for 3 days. THAT IS WHY I DO NOT AIR DRY MY PAINT. Dry in a toaster oven 30 minutes at 160 Degrees.
> 
> Second If you read I said DO NOT PRIME THE METAL.
> ...


Yes, I guess I have become confused by the various suggestions from several folks. Why do you not prime metal? Anyways, I think I’m into it this far, and the Krylon Red paint was not giving any coverage at all after three or more coats.

As for the baking, I have a cardboard box with a 150 watt bulb, and it does get pretty hot in there.

I will give the primer a light wet sanding and continue on with the Krylon Red, and hope for the best.


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

teledoc said:


> His finished product will be a whole lot better than his starting point.


I think the jury is still out on that one!


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

LostInHoboken said:


> Yes, I guess I have become confused by the various suggestions from several folks. Why do you not prime metal? Anyways, I think I’m into it this far, and the Krylon Red paint was not giving any coverage at all after three or more coats.
> 
> As for the baking, I have a cardboard box with a 150 watt bulb, and it does get pretty hot in there.
> 
> I will give the primer a light wet sanding and continue on with the Krylon Red, and hope for the best.


The reason I do not prime, is because when I bake, it allows the pores of the metal to expand, which allows the paint to flow and adhere directly to the metal. You are trying to make paint, adhere to a non smooth and bumpy surface.
Not trying to be confrontational, but the smooth surface of the metal is much smoother than the primer. That is what is giving paint finish a rough appearance IMO. 
I feel the reason automotive paint and other type professional paints are smoother, is the fact they are a paint that is hardened by a chemical reaction with the catalyst. Spray cans with the exception of one brand I know of does not use a hardener. Sorry but if you want a smooth surface the primer has to go. Again, this is just my experience. In addition the light bulb box may not reach 160 degrees, test with a thermometer to make sure, it is also a key part to the process.

Dan


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

teledoc said:


> Good point Dan with sticking to one method. Your finished paint jobs come out fantastic. That is one reason I backed off on adding to suggestions. His finished product will be a whole lot better than his starting point.


Please feel free to add to the mix. If my method doesn't work for some reason, yours may work better. I do agree sticking to one method would be the best idea. Which method is best, Just try them.

With the heat I used 3 different temperatures. First about 110, that didn't seem to work very well, then I went to 200, I think a bit overdone. So I split the difference and was very pleased with the results.

Dan


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

Panther said:


> The reason I do not prime, is because when I bake, it allows the pores of the metal to expand, which allows the paint to flow and adhere directly to the metal. ...
> Dan


Interesting. It's my understanding that primer has ingredients that "etch" the metal for adhesion. I don't prime because I sandblast the metal. That seems to fully etch the surface - smooth to the touch but visually it has a uniform matte-like appearance.

I did try primer once on an unrelated project (Rustoleum rattlecan grey). It left a horrible bumpy surface. And it took lots of effort to smooth it out. Never again.


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

Millstonemike said:


> Interesting. It's my understanding that primer has ingredients that "etch" the metal for adhesion. I don't prime because I sandblast the metal. That seems to fully etch the surface - smooth to the touuch but visually it has a uniform matte-like appearance.
> 
> I did try primer once on an unrelated project (Rustoleum rattlecan grey). It left a horrible bumpy surface. And it took lots of effort to smooth it out. Never again.


This may be where I am at the moment. Live and learn!


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

My 2 cents is I never ever use Rustoleum products. I have nothing but grief when I did try them. The problems were poor finish, took forever to dry. My go to is Krylon for normal colors, and some colors I resort to automotive Dupli-color. Take it for what it’s worth.


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

teledoc said:


> My 2 cents is I never ever use Rustoleum products. I have nothing but grief when I did try them. The problems were poor finish, took forever to dry. My go to is Krylon for normal colors, and some colors I resort to automotive Dupli-color. Take it for what it’s worth.


Completely agree, you won't beat Krylon.

Dan


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

Millstonemike said:


> Interesting. It's my understanding that primer has ingredients that "etch" the metal for adhesion. I don't prime because I sandblast the metal. That seems to fully etch the surface - smooth to the touch but visually it has a uniform matte-like appearance.
> 
> I did try primer once on an unrelated project (Rustoleum rattlecan grey). It left a horrible bumpy surface. And it took lots of effort to smooth it out. Never again.


I agree with your conclusion, I think the key to a smooth and glossy finish is the sandblasting. I think the process of not using primer was at least in my experience from being too anxious to get it done. Waiting for 2 or 3 coats of primer to dry took too much time. I found out I liked the results better without the primer.
IO live in a very arid region, when I sandblast I try to keep it to what I will be painting right away. However I have wrapped parts in brown painter papers, WITHOUT any protective coating, and they have retained the metal finish without rusting. This of course is only a few days at best.

Dan


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

I use primer mainly from not having access to blasting solutions. If I were doing an excessive amount of restoring, I might consider getting all the necessary equipment, but it is too expensive, for the low amount of restoring that I do. I never have problems with Krylon Ultramaxx primer. After I strip a body, I use a Drexel Stainless brush wheels, then thoroughly wipe everything down with isopropyl alcohol, immediately before spraying primer. Once I know the surface is smooth, I then spray the finish color, in 2-3 coats. This is what works or me.


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

Panther said:


> .... I emphasize glass bead sandblast because it is the least invasive medium. The beads are just like they say BEADS, where Sand Blast is different degrees of coarseness of actual sand particles. Glass bead leaves a smooth surface, Sand leaves a rougher surface. ...
> 
> Dan


Hi Dan. Can you tell me the spec.'s (abrasive grit size) or the specific product you use to blast? 

I was blasting with fine "baseball field" sand in a cardboard box. Served me well for repainting tinplate so far.

I bought a used HD blast cabinet that had media in it. Much finer than the sand I was using and left a much smoother surface on the tinplate. But I need more media and don't have the experience to know what to buy.


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

Millstonemike said:


> Hi Dan. Can you tell me the spec.'s (abrasive grit size) or the specific product you use to blast?
> 
> I was blasting with fine "baseball field" sand in a cardboard box. Served me well for repainting tinplate so far.
> 
> I bought a used HD blast cabinet that had media in it. Much finer than the sand I was using and left a much smoother surface on the tinplate. But I need more media and don't have the experience to know what to buy.


That will be a tough one. I inherited the glass bead compound from my Dad when he passed 30 years ago. I'm still using the same beads. It is very fine, if you stick your hand in it, it sticks to your skin. VERY fine. I know Harbor Freight sells different grits, I would guess the finest and you will be OK.
It also works excellent for making etched glass panels. I will take the glass from a picture frame and add shapes that are in the same theme as the photo. then etch those around the edge of the glass. It really adds to the photo.

Dan


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

Panther said:


> That will be a tough one. I inherited the glass bead compound from my Dad when he passed 30 years ago. I'm still using the same beads. It is very fine, if you stick your hand in it, it sticks to your skin. VERY fine. I know Harbor Freight sells different grits, I would guess the finest and you will be OK.
> It also works excellent for making etched glass panels. I will take the glass from a picture frame and add shapes that are in the same theme as the photo. then etch those around the edge of the glass. It really adds to the photo.
> 
> Dan


Thanks. Gonna' have to start opening boxes at HF


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## LostInHoboken (Jun 3, 2017)

Well, my father’s 3252 is finally restored, to the best of my ability. I learned a lot from this difficult project, the first thing being to leave tinplate restoration to the experts! I never could get the smooth finish that you guys seemed to get for baked enamel, but it’s as good as it’s going to be. I really appreciate the excellent advice which was shared by everyone, it helped immensely. I like to think my father would be pleased (if not proud) of the attempt to bring his childhood toy back to life. As he always used to say, regarding my sometimes- failed hobby projects, “A for effort!”


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

Looks great especially considering it will turn 100 any year now.


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Lost, It looks fantastic, from what I am looking at. As long as you are happy with the paint job, it's all that counts. It had to be a fun project to work on, and you should be proud of your accomplishment. Hope you are glad that you did it, and let it run, like it did, many years ago. Good luck.:smilie_daumenpos::smilie_daumenpos::appl:


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

Wow, Now you should have no doubt about your ability to restore tinplate.
If you can find one of the bulbs I suggested it will be the icing on the cake. Good work.

Dan


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Lost, the loco looks GREAT! What a great tribute to your father's legacy. Well done!

TJ


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

Panther said:


> That will be a tough one. I inherited the glass bead compound from my Dad when he passed 30 years ago. I'm still using the same beads. It is very fine, if you stick your hand in it, it sticks to your skin. VERY fine. I know Harbor Freight sells different grits, I would guess the finest and you will be OK.
> It also works excellent for making etched glass panels. I will take the glass from a picture frame and add shapes that are in the same theme as the photo. then etch those around the edge of the glass. It really adds to the photo.
> 
> Dan


I've been using the fine media that came with my used, bench-top cabinet. It really sticks to parts. Blow gun, wipe, finger test, and one or two still get through to the painted part. hwell:


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

Millstonemike said:


> I've been using the fine media that came with my used, bench-top cabinet. It really sticks to parts. Blow gun, wipe, finger test, and one or two still get through to the painted part. hwell:


Unfortunately I only use bead blasting to completely strip all of the old finish from tinplate. I remove all fixtures and banners down to the basic body, then sandblast completely inside and out. That is the best way to insure a completely new looking Car, or locomotive. Yes it is important to make sure all blasting residue is removed from the car, and make sure to use paper towels or thin gloves to hold the part while cleaning it. Finger oils will leave prints, and some paint will not stick to it. My only suggestion is painters masking tape.
You could also take a sample to HF, and try the next most course grit. 

Dan


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

Panther said:


> Unfortunately I only use bead blasting to completely strip all of the old finish from tinplate. I remove all fixtures and banners down to the basic body, ...
> 
> Dan


That's what I do except removing the "quasi-riveted" flag holders on a 248 loco (taped them with Scotch tape after triple 000 steel wool polish).


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