# Lionel SW Switcher from 1954 only runs in reverse



## zuti (Sep 18, 2013)

I did a search, but didn't find what I was looking for. I've got an old Lionel MKT switcher that currently only runs inreverse. The reversing lever will allow it to run only in reverse. When I move the lever to the middle, I get the 'buzz' that sounds like it's going to change directions but does nothng. Moving the lever to the right or left, the engine still only moves in reverse. If I move it too far right or left, it does nothing. I am assuming the the reversing unit (e-unit?) has failed. Occasionally, moving the lever right ot left actuall shorts the transformer (seems to draw current and trip the breaker). Are these units readily available and how difficult are they to change (my soldering skills will need to be enhanced, but I'm willing to give it a shot). Thanks for any advice and/or info. Zuti


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You can certainly get the E-Units, and you can also rebuild that one if you have three hands and/or 17 fingers. 

Here's the Olsen's page for the Lionel #600 MKT Switcher


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## zuti (Sep 18, 2013)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> You can certainly get the E-Units, and you can also rebuild that one if you have three hands and/or 17 fingers.
> 
> Here's the Olsen's page for the Lionel #600 MKT Switcher


Thanks for the info John!


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

The first thing you should do is remove the shell from the loco and check the E unit for proper operation. If it is buzzing it is getting power. Now check that the solenoid to see if it is moving full stroke. It goes up when power is applied to the E unit, and drops by gravity when power is removed. Sometimes they get a little sticky, and you can make them drop with power off by tapping them gently with your finger. If the solenoid is working, check to see if the drum is turning when the E unit is powered and unpowered. Check to see if the drum is distorted or broken or whatever. Check that both of the stub shafts at the end of the drum are in the proper holes in the side plates of the E unit. Do all this and get back with your results. If the drum has a problem, I can tell you the easy to get it out and back in again with only two hands and common tools.


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

What servoguy said, and

While you have the e unit and motor exposed, look for a loose wire.

and

Lube and clean the motor. When mine sit for a year, sometimes they will run only in one direction. When they do run, they don't run very well.


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## zuti (Sep 18, 2013)

servoguy said:


> The first thing you should do is remove the shell from the loco and check the E unit for proper operation. If it is buzzing it is getting power. Now check that the solenoid to see if it is moving full stroke. It goes up when power is applied to the E unit, and drops by gravity when power is removed. Sometimes they get a little sticky, and you can make them drop with power off by tapping them gently with your finger. If the solenoid is working, check to see if the drum is turning when the E unit is powered and unpowered. Check to see if the drum is distorted or broken or whatever. Check that both of the stub shafts at the end of the drum are in the proper holes in the side plates of the E unit. Do all this and get back with your results. If the drum has a problem, I can tell you the easy to get it out and back in again with only two hands and common tools.


Servoguy - What position should the 'reversing lever' be in when I test it? Left, middle or right? Also curious as to why nothing happens if I move the lever too far right or left. Is there a point at which the lever can be moved and ultimately not be making any kind of connectrion at all? Thanks for your help. Zuti


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Take the shell off, and you will see how the control lever for the E unit works. It is very simple.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Dave Sams, if you are having problems with locos after they have been sitting, I suggest you use motor oil for lubing everything if you are not already using it.

I have a 2025 born about 1947 or 1948 that I put on the rails yesterday for my great grandson for Christmas. Last time I lubed it was about 5 years ago. It ran just fine except the E unit is a little sticky. It is slow to drop when the power is turned off. Probably needs a little cleaning of the armature of the solenoid. I don't think it has been serviced since it was new. I may get around to cleaning it sometime in the near future.


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## zuti (Sep 18, 2013)

servoguy said:


> Take the shell off, and you will see how the control lever for the E unit works. It is very simple.


I was loking at it last night. When the lever in in the middle position, it resting in the small o-ring type indent in the middle. Is that the neutal position that prevents any movement, or is that the default position for forward and reverse movement? (sorry for all the questions)


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

There are only two positions. When the lever is on top of the eyelet, the E unit will operate. When the lever is on the opposite side, and is not touching the eyelet, the E unit does not cycle and will remain in whatever position it was in the last time it was powered.


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## zuti (Sep 18, 2013)

servoguy said:


> There are only two positions. When the lever is on top of the eyelet, the E unit will operate. When the lever is on the opposite side, and is not touching the eyelet, the E unit does not cycle and will remain in whatever position it was in the last time it was powered.


Thanks for the clarification. Is ther any sequence you need to use to get the engine moving? I've noticed that when I'm messing around with it, there seem to be some instances where it does nothing when I place it back on the track after moving the lever with the train off of the rails?


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

The E unit cycles forward, neutral, reverse, neutral, forward,...etc.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

T Man has a good thread on the e unit,
There is a video in there too about working on them,

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=6748


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Here is the thread for the 2 part e unit video,

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=6131&


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

servoguy said:


> Dave Sams, if you are having problems with locos after they have been sitting, I suggest you use motor oil for lubing everything if you are not already using it.
> 
> I have a 2025 born about 1947 or 1948 that I put on the rails yesterday for my great grandson for Christmas. Last time I lubed it was about 5 years ago. It ran just fine except the E unit is a little sticky. It is slow to drop when the power is turned off. Probably needs a little cleaning of the armature of the solenoid. I don't think it has been serviced since it was new. I may get around to cleaning it sometime in the near future.


Since reading your motor oil comments some time ago, and digging "rock hard" Lionel grease from my trolley, I put the Lionel lube away and oil, oil, oil (in moderation).

My PW locos usually have a lot of dirt on the armatures after sitting over the summer. The surface is quite dull. They will run in one direction, poorly and sometimes not at all in the other. A little quality time with an eraser and they run like new.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Dave, you might want to consider oiling the commutator with motor oil. I have been doing this for about 5 years with excellent results. Just make sure the commutator slots are clean before you do this. The oil will release the dirt in the slots and the dirt will foul the commutator. It's not a big deal, as it is easy to clean the dirt off. 

Don't believe anyone who tells you this won't work. The electrons also have to get through the oil film on the axles of the drivers, and no one is telling you not to oil the axles. Some have warned against oiling the pickup rollers. Again, bad advice. The only thing I am not oiling is the plunger for the E unit solenoid. I oil the bearings for the drum of the E unit because I have had some of them fail to operate until I put a little oil on the drum bearings. I am convinced that some oil on the E unit drum would improve performance and keep the drum clean.


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## zuti (Sep 18, 2013)

Great E-unit videos. Had it out last night and I believe that the issue may be the need for a good cleaning and the fingers not making contact. I'm going to try the rebuild, but just in case, what's the best source for an e-unit (not many shops here in the area). I believe that I need a 100-14 E-unit. Thanks Zuti


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Zuti, if you want to remove the drum, my recommendation is that your slightly bend the side plates of the E unit to allow the drum to be removed. I have done this and found it to be easier than disassembling the entire E unit. 

If the fingers are not making good contact, you can clean the drum and fingers with contact cleaner and bend the fingers slightly to make better contact without disassembling the E unit.


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## zuti (Sep 18, 2013)

servoguy said:


> Zuti, if you want to remove the drum, my recommendation is that your slightly bend the side plates of the E unit to allow the drum to be removed. I have done this and found it to be easier than disassembling the entire E unit.
> 
> If the fingers are not making good contact, you can clean the drum and fingers with contact cleaner and bend the fingers slightly to make better contact without disassembling the E unit.


Will I be able to get the fingers out easily without a full disassembly once I remove the drum?


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

If you get the drum out, I don't think you will need to remove the fingers. You can clean them with a piece of cardboard.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Zuti, try the easiest thing first. Like servoguy said, spray it with contact cleaner and try to clean the fingers with a peice of cardboard or a peice of scotch brite pad. Then bend back into shape. If that's all it needs then you don't have to disassemble anything. If it doesn't work you can order new contacts or a new e unit from Jeff at the train tender!


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## zuti (Sep 18, 2013)

sjm9911 said:


> Zuti, try the easiest thing first. Like servoguy said, spray it with contact cleaner and try to clean the fingers with a peice of cardboard or a peice of scotch brite pad. Then bend back into shape. If that's all it needs then you don't have to disassemble anything. If it doesn't work you can order new contacts or a new e unit from Jeff at the train tender!


The fingers look pretty bent up, so I am concerned about straightening them appropriately to make contact.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I just rebuilt an E-Unit, it was fairly easy. I use a PanaVise bench vise to slightly spread the sides of the E-Unit and just plucked the drum and both sets of fingers out. I put the new ones in place, and after a bit of jockeying, used the vise to close it back up. Success.

I also learned an innovative way to fix the or broken switch lever rivet, one that I wouldn't have thought of. Just gently pry one side of the coil support staked fastenings out and simply bend the side with the lever up 90 degrees. Repair/replace the rivet and then just bend it back and squeeze it back and stake it again. Worked slick as anything on two of them, I didn't think I'd get away with it.

If the fingers are bent, get the rebuild kit with the drum and two finger sets and do the job right, you'll be happier with the result.


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## zuti (Sep 18, 2013)

Okay, so I took the e-unit apart last night, cleaned the drum and cleaned and straightened the fingers. Reassembled everything, place it onthe track and got the classic buzz, but no motion between cycles. I could see the plunger moving, but I noticed the the lever on the plunger was not engaging the ratcheting device. It moved up, but slipped past te ratcheting device. I could move the barrel manually and get the engine to move, so I am thinking that I need to bend the level inward to help it engage the barrel. Am I on the right track here or is there something that I'm missing? Thanks Zuti


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

How are the teeth on the drum? Look to see that there all there and not worn down or broken.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

The pawl (lever) on the end of the plunger must swing back and forth easily. Gravity is what makes it engage the next tooth of the drum when the plunger drops when power is removed. If the pawl doesn't swing freely, it will not engage the drum properly.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The shape of the pawl and the way it's attached to the plunger should allow it to lean into the drum and catch it when it cycles. If it's not swinging totally free and the E-unit is not vertical, you will have issues.


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## zuti (Sep 18, 2013)

Installed new fingers that I got from Jeff at the Train Tender into my old e-unit, and the old Lionel MKT600 switcher is running like new! All cleaned and oiled and going forward AND reverse! Thanks for all the help and info from the forum members and vendors! Zuti :thumbsup: Everyone have a great holiday season!


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Good news, in time for the holidays!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Another success story. :thumbsup:


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