# Track cleaning



## LocoChris (Jun 26, 2021)

I haven't had my tracks setup for very long but I noticed that blackened wheelsets are already leaving quite a residue, so I was thinking of good ways to clean it. I'm curious what method and solution people are using for it. I had watched a pretty detailed Youtube video that recommended mineral spirits because of good conductivity. I also saw that there are some track cleaner cars out there but wasn't sure how well they worked compared to other methods.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

You're gonna get a dozen different opinions on what solution works best.
If you're running with plastic wheels, that'll exacerbate the problem.
As far as track cleaning cars, these are about the best (and most expensive) available:

CMX Clean Machine
Centerline
MNP (DCC).
Dapol (European).


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

I used 91% alcohol for years. After I read this article, I switched to mineral spirits. Does the job faster and the track and wheels stay clean longer.

Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

Plastic wheels seem to be a problem. I switched to Intermountain axels and started using older transmission fluid on the tracks (just a few drops on a couple of places and the trains carry it around. seems to work for several years with just one or two applications. Its in a conditioned environment so your experience may very. I never had mush success with car cleaners (but then that was from the 1960's). Lehigh74's link is probably the best, I think he used a socket breaker bar with a pad on it to clena the track!


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

As our friends have already noted many of us have favorite cleaners.

If your layout is in a nice neat climate control area keeping the tracks
clean is seldom a problem. I used a commercial track cleaning car that I
got for 4 or 5 dollars at a train show, about
once a month...it's pad wet with alcohol. Before that, I had a defunct
loco truck to which I added a felt pad and a Kadee coupler. It did the
job just as well. If your layout is in an area where dirt, dust and
other stuff can get to it, you'll want to do the cleaning chores more
often.

Keeping the loco wheels clean is also a necessity. The easy way is
to lay a paper napkin on the track. Put a spot of alcohol on it. Run
the front wheels of the loco onto the spot...hold the loco by hand and
run up the speed control as the wheels spin in the alcohol. Then do
the same with the rear wheels. 

Don


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## LocoChris (Jun 26, 2021)

Thanks for all the tips. Any preferences between the CMX and Centerline track cleaners? The CMX is on sale right now for about $160 and free shipping. I see there are two different HO Centerline cars, and I cannot tell any difference between them besides the shape and one of them is NMRA compliant.


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

My best track cleaner is a piece of scrap lumber with a rag wrapped around it. I put some mineral spirits on the rag and run it around by hand. If you can reach your entire layout by hand, that's what I would recommend. I do have a track cleaning car, but only use it for areas that I can't reach after I have done what I can reach.


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## Jscullans (Jul 8, 2019)

I personally use the crc contact cleaner with protectant. It is a flammable chemical so I would recommend wearing rubber gloves while working with it. It dries quickly and cleans track real good. I clean my track every couple months and it works for me. As far as the dapol car goes I have one and I wouldn’t waste the money on one personally just for the fact I think the electric motor in them is under powered for its purpose. I ended up building my own version of a dapol cleaning car with a motor and a passenger car that worked much better. For simplicity sake I would suggest the Cmx car personally


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## 65446 (Sep 22, 2018)

Whatever you wind up cleaning your track and loco wheels with you still have to get the crud off the wheels on your cars..lots of times there will be quite a thick buildup on them..
Flip car over. Put your thumbnail pointing into the wheel tread and spin it against your thumbnail, it acting like a shovel, using the opposite wheel to turn it..Do this on every wheel of every car about every quarter or half a year or sooner..


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Lehigh74 said:


> I used 91% alcohol for years. After I read this article, I switched to mineral spirits. Does the job faster and the track and wheels stay clean longer.
> 
> Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine


That's the ticket, right there. I used to use denatured alcohol; now I use CRC Contact Cleaner and Protectant.


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## Marv (Feb 8, 2011)

I use a CMX to apply Aero-Car Hobby Lubricants, Track and Rail Cleaner ACT-6006. Good stuff, been using it for years.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

CRC here too after lacquer thinner. I'm going to try the mineral spirits too.


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## Bonz85 (Sep 16, 2019)

Mineral spirits works quite well. I've read a handful of articles and seen a few videos of why not to use alchohol so I avoid that.


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## steamloco (Jul 18, 2017)

Just getting back into the hobby after a long absence. Track needs cleaning. I've done a bit of reading and it seems that the most recent trend is to avoid scrub pads like "bright boy" since they scratch, they catch grease, dirt, and oxides to make contact poor very quickly....and ya soon need to do the cleaning again. 

Alcohol should not be used since: (1) it is a polar molecule (will attract dirt) and (2) usually a percentage of water which encourages oxidation. Therefore.....
I purchased a WOODLAND SCENICS Tidy Track. But i noticed that they first two pads to be use appear be composed of abrasive material. I am wondering what the "
fluid" for track cleaning is. Anyone have any comments.


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## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

I use rubbing alcohol on a lint free paper towel. Seems to work fine.


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## timlange3 (Jan 16, 2013)

I use Goo Gone on a paper towel, wipe once, let set for a few minutes, then wipe again with damp paper towel and go over any 'rough spots'. Then clean towel and wipe up the residue (repeat until towel shows nothing).

I clean my engine wheels by placing Goo Gone damp paper towel over rails and run the engine and hold it in place with one truck at a time on the towel. Clean with dry towel. Cars are the hard part, take a long narrow towel and make it damp with Goo Gone and run the car over it many times, then over dry towel. When nothing shows on dry towel it is clean.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

steamloco said:


> Just getting back into the hobby after a long absence. Track needs cleaning. I've done a bit of reading and it seems that the most recent trend is to avoid scrub pads like "bright boy" since they scratch, they catch grease, dirt, and oxides to make contact poor very quickly....and ya soon need to do the cleaning again.
> 
> Alcohol should not be used since: (1) it is a polar molecule (will attract dirt) and (2) usually a percentage of water which encourages oxidation. Therefore.....
> I purchased a WOODLAND SCENICS Tidy Track. But i noticed that they first two pads to be use appear be composed of abrasive material. I am wondering what the "
> fluid" for track cleaning is. Anyone have any comments.


So there is a lot to unpack here. First of all, polar solvents don't attract dirt, they simply do nothing to prevent future corrosion. Non-polar solvents, on the other hand, actively inhibit it. Almost any solvent will clean your track. So the message isn't "DON'T use a polar solvent", but "non-polar solvents do a better job of KEEPING your track clean". It won't hurt your layout to use a polar solvent.

If you use 91% isopropyl alcohol, there isn't enough water in it to cause significant corrosion.

The abrasive cleaners should not be used as part of a regular track cleaning regime, but sometimes are your only choice for getting hardened adhesive or paint off of your rails. Use sparingly, and only when you must.

I don't know what's in the fluid that comes with the Tidy Track system. By law, they have to say somewhere, though. But don't fall for the old "only use my products" marketing trick: you can use any solvent you want on their pads. Avoid using the abrasive pads, except in extreme circumstances.

Interestingly, Goo Gone's active ingredient is kerosene, which is an extremely effective non-polar solvent. Some of the other ingredients aren't so good. You should NEVER use so much solvent that your track stays wet afterwards, a simple wiping pass, followed by a drying / buffing pass is best. A lint-free rag (like an old T-shirt) is better than a paper towel because it's less likely to leave shredded fibers behind on the layout.

[Edited to correct egregious "autocorrect" FUBAR not caught the first time.]


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## steamloco (Jul 18, 2017)

Now that's and answer! Thank you. It does agree with what i have been reading, so reinforcement is great. And the 91% alcohol seems logical....though the die-hards seem to even refrain from its use.

I have tried minerals spirits. My steam engines have traction tires and that seems to leave a slight film that cuts down on traction (and would collect dust??)

This question might illicit quite explosive response: but how about limited use of lighter fluid? It does seem to be a very good solvent.
CVR...thanks for the input. It is appreciated.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

All but one of my locomotives have traction tires too. As much as I want to try kerosene I don't want anything on the rails that affects the longevity of the tires. I stick to either WD-40 Contact Cleaner or CRC Contact Cleaner. I also use lacquer thinner on occasion.


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## kilowatt62 (Aug 18, 2019)

The disintegrating traction tire thing has recently concerned me as well. All of my ‘tired’ Locos are of vintage or antique age. In the past year, I’ve redone just about all of them due to dry rot. I’m now curious if Lighter fluid, (ultra refined naptha) is a wise choice for track & wheel cleaning. 
The transmission fluid process is interesting. Wonder how that affects tires as well.


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## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

ATF is one of the ingredients in "Ed's Red" which is a concoction of chemicals that is a solvent, penetrant and lubricant.

Equal parts of
Dexron ATF Fluid (not synthetic)
Kerosene
Mineral Spirits
Acetone

No clue if it would be suitable for track cleaning, but it is widely regarded as an excellent gun cleaner. I used to soak silencers in it that would get caked up with carbon fouling.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Just a guess on my part, but I'm thinking that you wouldn't want to use any petroleum-based cleaner on track where traction tires made of synthetic rubber are also used. It will probably shorten the service life of those tires.


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## Tigger (Dec 19, 2021)

Been looking at cleaning cars ( DIY style) and all the options on track cleaning chemicals. The CRC contact cleaner with protectant seems to have gold in it. Walmart sells the 10 ounce can for $39.95. Amazon is about 10 bucks cheaper. The CRC leaves a slight lube film afterwards. I have Goo Gone and so far so good. But I'm open to and willing to give any others a try. My layout has incline to it, so I'm thinking any slippery stuff on the track isn't a good thing. After any petroleum based cleaner, would a Formula 409 style of cleaner be acceptable? I have a citrus cleaner, Xenit from Stoner products that I have been using for 20 plus years on numerous things, stuff works great. I haven't used it on tracks yet, but I may give it a try. I like the idea of a scrap piece of wood and a rag wrapped around it, makes sense to me. Easy enough and probably fairly fast. Does anybody have any suggestions on what NOT to use based on personal experience?

This is the stuff; 








Xenit Citrus Cleaner 10oz


The Fast and Easy Way to Remove Sticky Stuff, Stains, and Gunk from Almost Any Surface. CLEAN IT WITH XENIT. XENIT (zee-nit) cleans most surfaces in seconds. Xenit contains a proprietary cleaning formula with Citrus 66,™ an all-natural, highly refined extract of citrus fruit. With this powerful...




stonercarcare.com


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

For things like the CRC Contact Cleaner, the film that remains is part of protecting your rails from microarcing and oxidation. You don't want to remove it, although if you're using more than a rag moistened with it, you're applying too much.

For things like Goo Gone and the Xenit, they contain "essential oils" (essential in the sense of having essence, or scent, not "necessary"). These are slippery and non-conductive, and should be removed from your rails prior to running trains.


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## Tigger (Dec 19, 2021)

Well that makes sense. I just found that I can get the CRC/protectant from Grainger for about $20 shipped to their store. We have an outlet close by. I'll give it a try.


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## Tigger (Dec 19, 2021)

$22.09 shipped to their store tax included.. 2 days wait. Shipped to home is quite a bit more. I just ordered it.


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## Jscullans (Jul 8, 2019)

I have a bottle of simple green to clean my air brush that I’ve thought of trying on my layout but I don’t want to somehow screw up my track work like I did using no-ox. I am still debating on using the no-ox but need to do it differently since it made nothing but a mess last time. If you decide to go that route look it up in the forum and follow other peoples instruction. After that fiasco I have done a mess of cleaning and changed a ton of wheels from plastic to steel


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

Jscullans said:


> changed a ton of wheels from plastic to steel


FYI….modern quality metal wheel sets are not made of “steel”….they are CNC machined brass….

Steel rusts, and I would not want that on my rolling stock….


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

I use 4 types. 
Liquid is acetone nailpolish remover. Costs about $1-$2 depending on the dollar store chain.
Abrasive is brightboy or similar product from hobby shops.
Soft brush is an axle clip on brush made by Woodland Scenics (for loose dust).
Buffing/polishing is just a dry t shirt strip, weighted, to buff the rail head.


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## Jscullans (Jul 8, 2019)

Old_Hobo said:


> FYI….modern quality metal wheel sets are not made of “steel”….they are CNC machined brass….
> 
> Steel rusts, and I would not want that on my rolling stock….


My mistake. Metal. Proto2000 33” wheel sets


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

While Brightboy was used back in the days, its now claimed to put micro scratches on the track, causing it to get dirty faster, so its now longer advised. I seem to have great success using older type transmission fluid, a few drops and the trains carry it all over. If really dirty, a pad connected to a 1/2" breaker bar with CRC on it seems to work also. The breaker bar is nice an heavy and can fit part way into tunnels!


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

To each their own. I think micro-scratches are not a problem with a regular cleaning schedule. And I personally think micro-arcing is… a bunch of hoopla; probably inflated as a problem by somebody trying to move product. 120v receptacles micro-arc, and sometimes noticeably arc, and still they out last most of us, with no cleaning of the connection.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

OilValleyRy said:


> To each their own. I think micro-scratches are not a problem with a regular cleaning schedule. And I personally think micro-arcing is… a bunch of hoopla; probably inflated as a problem by somebody trying to move product. 120v receptacles micro-arc, and sometimes noticeably arc, and still they out last most of us, with no cleaning of the connection.


While I would agree with you that the issue of microscratches is vastly overblown, microarcing is not. It's what causes most of the oxidation on your rails. If you plugged something into a wall socket and unplugged it again thousands of times a second (simulating a metal wheel rolling along a track), it probably wouldn't last very long. That said, the oxide on nickel silver rail is conductive, but ever since I started using a non-polar solvent that inhibits microarcing (NOT a product specifically made or marketed for that purpose, BTW), I can get away with monthly cleanings as opposed to weekly ones.


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## Tigger (Dec 19, 2021)

Picked up the CRC Contact Cleaner w/ Protectant yesterday. Just to clarify, wipe track with either nail polish remover, acetone, or mineral spirits, etc, then apply a small amount of the CRC?


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Spray some CRC on a rag. Insert finger behind damp spot (latex or nitrile gloves recommended). Rub track. Move finger to a clean spot on the rag if it gets too dirty. No other chemicals le cleaning required.


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## 65446 (Sep 22, 2018)

Another not so common way is to burnish the rails, metal against metal, by taking a 2.5" diam thick metal washer, and with power off in rails lightly buffing them in small circular motions across the 2 rail heads..This will put a gleam on them and become free of any crud of any kind..
It's a misnomer to think it will actually lower the rail height any significant amount. If it does at all it's like a millionth of an inch or centimeter...You're just shining em up, not grinding em down..
When over switches, move from frog toward point rails, to be sure of not snagging point blades...


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## Tigger (Dec 19, 2021)

Whats the loco's wheel cleaning procedure?


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

Tigger said:


> Whats the loco's wheel cleaning procedure?


Invert in a suitable cradle and apply power to it somehow to get wheels to turn. Use a Q-Tip or something similar dampened with a bit of kerosene or alcohol, and gently scrub the turning wheel with it.

Some prefer to place a small dampened rag across the rails and hold one or two axles on the rag while others pick up power directly from the rails and help to drive the mechanism for you. The loco does its own scrubbing therefore.


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## Tigger (Dec 19, 2021)

The CRC Contact cleaner with protectant is kind of a disaster. The product comes out from under the nozzle making a huge mess and the nozzle fits very snug. Its the tube sticking out of the can that leaks when depressed. Drips everywhere. Not a pleased customer right now. It's getting returned.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Tigger said:


> The CRC Contact cleaner with protectant is kind of a disaster. The product comes out from under the nozzle making a huge mess and the nozzle fits very snug. Its the tube sticking out of the can that leaks when depressed. Drips everywhere. Not a pleased customer right now. It's getting returned.


Two words: Operator error. I'll be charitable and say you got a defective can. In years of using both this and WD-40 (dozens of cans of both), I have had exactly one can do this, and it was WD-40. 

That said, why are you using the tube? Just use the nozzle and spray it on a rag.


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

Tigger said:


> Whats the loco's wheel cleaning procedure?


I lay a moistened paper towel across the track. Set one truck of a loco over it, and while holding it in place I crank the throttle and let it run for 5-10 seconds. Sometimes I let it inch forward at speed and then push it back to add a little more friction. I repeat the process for the 2nd truck.


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## Tigger (Dec 19, 2021)

I dont think you understand my post. When depressing the nozzle, product comes out around the tube that the nozzle fits onto. 50% comes out of the nozzle and 50% makes a mess under it, dripping all over the place. The nozzle fits tight on the tube. Operator error??? hardly. Defective can? absolutely.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Tigger said:


> I dont think you understand my post. When depressing the nozzle, product comes out around the tube that the nozzle fits onto. 50% comes out of the nozzle and 50% makes a mess under it, dripping all over the place. The nozzle fits tight on the tube. Operator error??? hardly. Defective can? absolutely.


In which case, your error is in characterizing a defective can as a defective product. However, it may be as simple as a clogged nozzle, especially if the can is shelf-worn (depends on where you got it). Try clearing it with a pin or small wire.


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## CambriaArea51 (Sep 2, 2019)

I've been using this stuff the last few years with success. Spray on a paper towel and wipe the rails down. For engines I spray on a paper towel and power up the engine and run the front trucks over the sprayed area then the dry area. then the back trucks. I have found the engine wheels stay cleaner longer and the track also.








CRC CRCX 2-26 XMulti-Purpose Lubricant x 5 oz. 02004 - The Home Depot


The CRC 2-26 5 oz. Multi-Purpose Lubricant is a plastic-safe lubricant, penetrant and corrosion inhibitor. This lubricant helps prevent electrical malfunctions and restore damaged equipment caused by water penetration, humidity, condensation and corrosion. This product also restores resistance...



www.homedepot.com


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

CambriaArea51 said:


> I've been using this stuff the last few years with success. Spray on a paper towel and wipe the rails down. For engines I spray on a paper towel and power up the engine and run the front trucks over the sprayed area then the dry area. then the back trucks. I have found the engine wheels stay cleaner longer and the track also.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


It's a solvent, therefore it works. And that technique of cleaning loco wheels is widely known.

However, there are better products that help up your track STAY clean. One of the best is CRC's Contact Cleaner and Protectant, which comes in a green can.


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## Pete T (Jan 19, 2017)

I thoroughly recommend the following video. After watching this and following the advise, my layout has never run so trouble free and for so long.


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

Comparing plywood surface to machined metal surface made me grown. I mean groan. Damn homophone topic.


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## Pete T (Jan 19, 2017)

What can I add? By eliminating the 98.5% IPA I used to use and using INOX has reduced track cleaning to a three monthly event instead of a daily event. Whether you like the analogies shown in he video or not or the use of plywood to highlight what takes place on a smaller scale when track rubbers are used on metal surfaces, I'm simply stating that this product definitely is a game changer.


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