# newbie



## QueenoftheGN

so im a newbie  and i was wondering if somebody could tell me what trains/train brands would be good for me (13 yrs) also if somebody could help with what rolling stock would be good 

thx in advance


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## rrjim1

You can't go wrong with Atlas locos and rolling stock, lots of great products to choose from. I would stay away from anything that doesn't have Micro Trains or MT compatible couplers. That way you won't have to change or modify couplers. Kato is one brand that IMO has terrible couplers.


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## QueenoftheGN

:smilie_daumenpos:  ok thx and what about rapido couplers r they any good


also i was thinking about purchasing a DCC loco do u know like what one i should purchase and what DCC machinery i should get?


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## rrjim1

I use and really like Digitrax mainly because of the hand held throttles. Some people like NCE, I would check out all the system your think you might be interested in before making a purchase.

If you can find a DCC loco you like, If not consider purchasing a DCC ready locos that you like and install a decoder. 

Rapido couplers, outdated not used very much. You can how ever change the couplers or the complete trucks with couplers. Almost everyone uses Micro Trains = the best.


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## traction fan

*Welcome aboard!*



firescales22 said:


> so im a newbie  and i was wondering if somebody could tell me what trains/train brands would be good for me (13 yrs) also if somebody could help with what rolling stock would be good
> 
> thx in advance




firescales22;

Welcome to the forum! As for a good train brand, you can't beat Kato. Their quality is excellent across the board. I'm (71 yrs) and have been modeling in N-scale for at least (40 yrs) and have yet to see a bad Kato product. On the bad side, I avoid Bachmann, and I recommend you do too, at least for now.
Bachmann has a very mixed history, during which they have churned out many truly lousy products, and a few decent ones.
Old Bachmann stuff was pure junk. I gave up on the brand years ago. I have read on the forum that they "have upped their game" and "the new Bachmann locomotives are much better" , but I remain skeptical.
One current-production, lousy-quality, Bachmann product is their EZ-Track "turnouts."(track switches) They came in dead last on a quality comparison I did recently. The attached PDF file, "All about turnouts" has lots of useful information, and the quality rankings are at the end. I suggest you read a thread on this N-scale section of the forum titled "Are Kato #4 turnouts still problematic?" For some discussion on "Roadbed track" turnouts", including Kato and Bachmann.
"All about turnouts", and the other attached PDF files, are some I wrote to help new modelers or "newbies", like you, in building their first layout.

You asked if Rapido couplers were any good. Well, that depends on what you want to do with the couplers on your trains. If all you want is for them to stay firmly coupled, then Rapidos are very good at that. However, If you want to be able to uncouple cars for switching operations in a yard, or on sidings, then Rapidos are very bad at that. They stay together so well, that it's quite difficult to get them apart.
Rapido does make an uncoupling ramp, which lifts the couplers enough to uncouple them. The problem is, a train can only uncouple a car, and leave that car sitting on the ramp. It can't move the car anywhere off the ramp without re-coupling to it. This means you need a whole lot of ramp track sections. One, not only for each yard track, but also one for each spot on a long, multi-industry, siding, where you want to deliver a car.

A much, much, better coupler is Micro-Trains brand. They look like real couplers instead of gigantic square hooks, like Rapidos do. They somewhat resemble a human hand, and are called "knuckle couplers" for that reason. Micro-Trains couplers are magnetic. They can be uncoupled on a magnet ramp, and then pushed anywhere along a yard track, or siding, without re-coupling. Many modelers don't use magnetic uncoupling ramps at all. Instead they uncouple cars anywhere on their layouts with a simple stick, or small screwdriver.
Whichever way you choose to use them Micro-Trains couplers are the best N-scale couplers available.

These days most new cars & locos come with some brand of "knuckle couplers" attached. These knuckle couplers are all supposed to work with other brands of knuckle couplers, but some "don't play well with others." Oddly Kato couplers fall into this category. They work great with more Kato couplers, but not-so-great with other brands.

Most experienced modelers use Micro-Trains couplers on every car, and locomotive. For now you might like to use a "transition car." This car would have a Rapido-coupler-equipped-truck at one end, and a Micro-Trains truck/coupler at the other. This way, you could use your present cars, which have rapido couplers, and also use any new cars, or locos, that have knuckle couplers. I recommend you use whatever brand of knuckle couplers come on your newer cars, unless they give you trouble. Gradually, you could convert one car at a time to Micro-Trains couplers.

Again welcome;

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:

View attachment WHERE DO I START rev 4.pdf


View attachment All AboutTurnouts rev 5.pdf


View attachment 1 How to build a better first layout.pdf


View attachment 2 How to build a better first layout.pdf


View attachment 3 & 4 How to build a better first layout.pdf


View attachment 5 How to build a better first layout.pdf


View attachment 6 How to build a better first layout.pdf


View attachment MODEL RAILROADING ON A BUDGET.pdf


View attachment Model Railroad Terminology 3.pdf


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## rrjim1

Well I'm 69 years old and own some pretty crappy running Kato locos, repaired some and even had to send a couple defective Kato locos back. They still use the same old high speed motor were everyone else has upgraded to a scale speed motor that runs so much better. No matter which brand you purchase you can get a bad one sometimes, nothing is perfect. The newer Bachmann locos are much better and run very well. I own two Bachmann Alco S4 locos that I consider very good switchers.


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## QueenoftheGN

OK i have 1 kato engine it runs OK but i dont have much money so i dont buy a lot of kato engines but i do have like 7 (used) bachmann engines and they run pretty well also i have 3 life like locos and my track is kato unitrack
EDIT: i am not sure how to change couplers so if u could help with that it would be much appreciated thx :smilie_daumenpos:


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## QueenoftheGN

do you have to ballast unitrack i just read in another forum that you should ballast unitrack i was just making sure


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## QueenoftheGN

annnnnnnnd another question do micro trains couplers come with just micro trains locos or can you get them with other brands?

EDIT:OK i just purchased 2 of those bachmann switchers you mentioned in the previous post i like them a lot i see why u enjoy them


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## QueenoftheGN

all right and one more as i work on my layout so i am going for a snowy/christmasy theme any good suggestions on what i should use for snow


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## QueenoftheGN

oh jeez one more is there a good brand that makes good quality N scale buildings? thx


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## prrfan

firescales22 said:


> do you have to ballast unitrack i just read in another forum that you should ballast unitrack i was just making sure


There is no need to ballast Unitrack. It can be done but it’s not easy since it already has roadbed with a textured “ballast “ attached to it. If you don’t like the color you can always paint it.


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## QueenoftheGN

ok thanks!


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## QueenoftheGN

and how would you ballast it if i was to do that?


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## prrfan

firescales22 said:


> and how would you ballast it if i was to do that?


I would consult the tutorials on You Tube. There was a thread on here just a few weeks ago about this. You can probably find it in a site search. 
I use Unitrack because you don’t need to ballast it (among other reasons).


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## luvadj

Hi there and welcome to the forum. We're all here to learn from one and other, right 

As for trains, there's nothing wrong with buying a train set to start off with ( a decent size one, not the smaller ones ) and building up from there....Kato is top of the line and they set starter sets as well as Bachmann. For your money, you get a start with a bit of everything and the investment is low...then you add on what you like to have as time and money permits 

The only advice I can give on cars is to run metal wheelsets...the plastic wheelsets spread that insulating gunk all over the layout rails and will give you fits thinking your loco has died..

Just my .02....carry on....


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## CTValleyRR

firescales22 said:


> do you have to ballast unitrack i just read in another forum that you should ballast unitrack i was just making sure


It's your layout. You don't HAVE to do anything you don't want to. As we say around here: "Your Layout, Your Rules."

Unitrack comes with an integrated plastic roadbed that looks very good, but it's still obviously plastic roadbed. If you want to make it more realistic looking, you can add ballast. It will work just fine without it, though.


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## CTValleyRR

firescales22 said:


> oh jeez one more is there a good brand that makes good quality N scale buildings? thx


Except for track (especially turnouts), there really isn't such a thing as better or worse brands. Some have more detail and / or are more faithful to the prototype (and these usually cost a little more), but I wouldn't say that there's a lot ofmjunk floating around out there (just stay away from used stuff on eBay, which can be a crap shoot). Over time, you will develop a feel for which brands you prefer, but that's largely a matter of personal preference.

Have a look at Walther's Cornerstone kits. They're nice, well detailed,easy to assemble plastic kits. If you prefer wood (generally more expensive than plastic), Blair Line or American Model Builders are both good.


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## traction fan

*Replacing couplers*



firescales22 said:


> OK i have 1 kato engine it runs OK but i dont have much money so i dont buy a lot of kato engines but i do have like 7 (used) bachmann engines and they run pretty well also i have 3 life like locos and my track is kato unitrack
> EDIT: i am not sure how to change couplers so if u could help with that it would be much appreciated thx :smilie_daumenpos:


firescales22;

There are several way to change couplers. Since you did not say what couplers you want to change from and to, I'm assuming you want to go from Rapido couplers to Micro-Trains couplers. The easiest way is to buy Micro-Trains trucks with their couplers already mounted. The trucks are high quality and they come with instructions and adapter inserts to fit several brands of cars.

You can also buy just the couplers, without the trucks. They can be mounted directly to the body of the car. However, This should be an all or none coupler mounting location choice. The worst thing you can have is a mixture of some body-mounted couplers and some truck-mounted couplers. That mix will very often cause derailments. Do your present cars have their Rapido couplers mounted on the trucks? I suspect they do. If so, I suggest sticking with all truck-mounted couplers. This is also a better option if you have curves 12" radius or less. Truck mounted couplers are better on tight curves. 

There are bulk packs of 50 couplers which are cheaper, per coupler, than buying couplers in pairs. Couplers are sold pre-assembled, and in kits, where you have to assemble the couplers. The kits are cheaper, but assembling tiny couplers is not easy. Micro-Trains sells some special tools including an assembly fixture and a spring holding tool. They also sell a coupler height and track gage combined tool. Again read the directions that come with whatever couplers you buy.

Micro-Trains does not make locomotives. They do make excellent freight and passenger cars though. You can mount Micro-Trains couplers on just about any brand of locomotive or car. They even make special conversion kits for specific locomotives.

As you have probably discovered by now, nothing much is cheap in this hobby, or most, hobbies, for that matter. My advice is to have only a few good quality items, instead of lots of cheap ones. You now own 11 locomotives , which should be plenty. As long as you like what you have, there is no reason to spend your limited money on more locomotives. One of the PDF files I sent you, "Model Railroading on a budget" points out some ways to save a bit of money, and also some things where it's better to save up enough to buy something really well made, instead of going cheap. 

Good luck, and have fun!

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


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## traction fan

*N-scale buildings*



firescales22 said:


> oh jeez one more is there a good brand that makes good quality N scale buildings? thx


 firescales22;

There are many brands of N-scale buildings. Most are good, none are cheap. Design Preservation Models makes kits for stores, warehouses, a hotel, and other brick buildings, that are well made, easy to assemble and reasonably inexpensive, compared to many other structure models. You might start with one of their kits. Built up structures are generally much more expensive than kits. The cheapest way to get structures is to build your own from scratch.

good luck, have fun;

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


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## traction fan

*snow*



firescales22 said:


> all right and one more as i work on my layout so i am going for a snowy/christmasy theme any good suggestions on what i should use for snow


firescales22;

Woodland Scenics sells model "Snow" at a ridiculously high price. It works well, but it costs a lot. You can make your own snow for practically nothing. Find a piece of Styrofoam packing material. You may have some around the house, or many people throw it away. Use sandpaper on the styrofoam and shazam! instant free model snow.


You have asked many questions. Several other members, and I, have answered them. That's quite OK, answering newbie's questions is one of the 
main reasons this forum exists. You can keep asking questions sporadically if you want. However, If you read the files I've sent you you may find the answers to many of your questions in them. That's why I wrote them.

good luck, have fun;

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


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## QueenoftheGN

okay i just read them all it help quite abit so thx


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## QueenoftheGN

is mehano a good brand?


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## kenf

firescales22 said:


> and how would you ballast it if i was to do that?


Here is a very experienced N Scale modeller demonstrating how to easily ballast Kato track.


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## kenf

prrfan said:


> There is no need to ballast Unitrack. It can be done but it’s not easy since it already has roadbed with a textured “ballast “ attached to it. If you don’t like the color you can always paint it.


Agree that it's unnecessary.

Disagree that doing so is a difficult task.


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## kenf

Here is perhaps a middle quality, middle cost, middle complexity solution...printable. Structures like these won't have the same level of detail, (eg...a raised brick surface), but might provide sufficient realism and an acceptable cost

https://scalescenes.com/


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## CTValleyRR

firescales22 said:


> is mehano a good brand?


Refer back to my previous post on quality. As long as you're buying new, it's hard to go wrong. Nobody minds a lot of questions... but we can get a little frustrated when it seems like you're not paying attention to the answers. 

Nothing wrong with Mehano. They are a Slovenian company that makes models for other brands, as well as selling under their own name. I have 3 of them, sold under the IHC Command XXV brand. They are good runners, and surprisingly well detailed for their price.


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## QueenoftheGN

Ok I’m sorry 😐 I have just got a lot of stuff going on right now I’m sorry again &#55358;&#56698;


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## QueenoftheGN

Ignore those ?? They where on accident


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## QueenoftheGN

Okay well I was just wondering about mehano because I got 1 supposably “new” mehano loco I will post a vid about what it actually did do


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## QueenoftheGN

It won’t let me post vids so I will post pics and describe it


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## QueenoftheGN

Actually I will post a vid on YouTube on my channel firescales 22


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## QueenoftheGN

Ok @CTVallyRR I’m sorry 😐 i just have a lot going on that’s all


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## QueenoftheGN

Just because I can’t see my post I am going to post I again just in case I made a video about my mehano loco and showing the insides of it u can’t check it out on my YouTube firescales 22


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## QueenoftheGN

*can.


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## rrjim1

firescales22 said:


> is mehano a good brand?


NO! N-scale loco reviews here, check them out.

http://www.spookshow.net/


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## QueenoftheGN

rrjim1 said:


> NO! N-scale loco reviews here, check them out.
> 
> http://www.spookshow.net/


what d you mean?


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## kenf

CTValleyRR said:


> Refer back to my previous post on quality. As long as you're buying new, it's hard to go wrong. Nobody minds a lot of questions... but we can get a little frustrated when it seems like you're not paying attention to the answers.
> 
> Nothing wrong with Mehano.


I just re-read the entire thread. Firescale's question "is mehano a good brand?" Is the first mention of "Mehano" in this thread.

I'll allow the question and note that CTValleyRR's "...frustrated..." dismissal of the question is incongruent with "...nobody minds a lot of questions."

Ken Florian


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## kenf

firescales22 said:


> Ok I’m sorry 😐 I have just got a lot of stuff going on right now I’m sorry again ��


While CTValleyRR's response is consistent with the presumably large amount of experience supporting it, these forums are replete with questions, answers, and educated debates about specific brands.

Your question is in-scope, irrespective of whether any given individual thinks their general answer ought to be sufficient for you.

No apology necessary.

Ken Florian


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## QueenoftheGN

kenf said:


> While CTValleyRR's response is consistent with the presumably large amount of experience supporting it, these forums are replete with questions, answers, and educated debates about specific brands.
> 
> Your question is in-scope, irrespective of whether any given individual thinks their general answer ought to be sufficient for you.
> 
> No apology necessary.
> 
> Ken Florian


ok well thanks:smilie_daumenpos:


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## QueenoftheGN

rrjim1 said:


> NO! N-scale loco reviews here, check them out.
> 
> http://www.spookshow.net/


this is the piece of crap i have 

http://www.spookshow.net/loco/yugogp40.html


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## QueenoftheGN

post removed


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## QueenoftheGN

Here’s my layout


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## QueenoftheGN

Here it is


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## CTValleyRR

firescales22 said:


> Ok @CTVallyRR I’m sorry 😐 i just have a lot going on that’s all


Just came back to this thread. You're right (everyone who has commented), my comment was needlessly snippy, and I apologize.


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## QueenoftheGN

CTValleyRR said:


> Just came back to this thread. You're right (everyone who has commented), my comment was needlessly snippy, and I apologize.



no prob:smilie_daumenpos:


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## CTValleyRR

Looks like a good start on that layout!

Two questions, though (no right or wrong answers, just curious):
1) Do you have any plans for that large open area in the middle? You could put an industry there, or a nice landscape feature (a lake, a farm, whatever strikes your fancy).
2) Why did you use so much foam under it? One of those pieces would be plenty.


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## QueenoftheGN

CTValleyRR said:


> Looks like a good start on that layout!
> 
> Two questions, though (no right or wrong answers, just curious):
> 1) Do you have any plans for that large open area in the middle? You could put an industry there, or a nice landscape feature (a lake, a farm, whatever strikes your fancy).
> 2) Why did you use so much foam under it? One of those pieces would be plenty.



answer for question 1 that is where the town and something else will be i have not decided yet

answer 2 those foam pieces where on the floor and i had to move the table so i could put my cars locos ect. on it so they were not on the floor and i put the foam on the table then promptly forgot thy where there and started painting also originaly planned a bigger layout but i found this forum and many posts warned against it so did not make it so big


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## traction fan

*Edge running?*



firescales22 said:


> answer for question 1 that is where the town and something else will be i have not decided yet
> 
> answer 2 those foam pieces where on the floor and i had to move the table so i could put my cars locos ect. on it so they were not on the floor and i put the foam on the table then promptly forgot thy where there and started painting also originaly planned a bigger layout but i found this forum and many posts warned against it so did not make it so big


firescales22;

Looks good so far! There is one safety improvement I'd recommend. Move your track in away from the table edges. Using a smaller oval, and the same arrangement of turnouts & sidings, You should be able to shrink the same track plan you already have down to the point where the track isn't running right next to the table edge.
You have told us that you are young (13) and don't have much money. I'm recommending shrinking the oval to help prevent a locomotive, or cars from falling over the table edge, down to the floor and being damaged.
Another possible advantage of going a little smaller is that you can have buildings, trees, or other scenery, outside the oval. These things can act as safety barriers, to stop a train from going over the edge. Some modelers even install a clear plastic wall along the outside edges where a train might fall.
If you decide to shrink the oval, another thing you might consider is angling that oval so it's not dead parallel to the long edge of the table. This can actually make the same track arrangement look a bit more interesting and less predictable. It can also open up some interesting spaces for industries and scenery. I'll give you one example. The coal mine building you have could have the end that now faces the brown wall, butted up against your mountain. The idea behind that placement is that small mine railroad cars move the coal out of an unseen mineshaft in the mountain and into the mine building. Then It can be dumped into hopper cars spotted on the siding underneath the building, as you have it now.
All these are just suggestions for you to think about, and decide if you want to use them or not. 

good luck & have fun;

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


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## QueenoftheGN

traction fan said:


> firescales22;
> 
> Looks good so far! There is one safety improvement I'd recommend. Move your track in away from the table edges. Using a smaller oval, and the same arrangement of turnouts & sidings, You should be able to shrink the same track plan you already have down to the point where the track isn't running right next to the table edge.
> You have told us that you are young (13) and don't have much money. I'm recommending shrinking the oval to help prevent a locomotive, or cars from falling over the table edge, down to the floor and being damaged.
> Another possible advantage of going a little smaller is that you can have buildings, trees, or other scenery, outside the oval. These things can act as safety barriers, to stop a train from going over the edge. Some modelers even install a clear plastic wall along the outside edges where a train might fall.
> If you decide to shrink the oval, another thing you might consider is angling that oval so it's not dead parallel to the long edge of the table. This can actually make the same track arrangement look a bit more interesting and less predictable. It can also open up some interesting spaces for industries and scenery. I'll give you one example.The coal mine building you have could have the end that now faces the brown wall, butted up against your mountain. The idea behind that placement is that small mine railroad cars move the coal out of an unseen mineshaft in the mountain and into the mine building. Then It can be dumped into hopper cars spotted on the siding underneath the building, as you have it now.[/B][/B]The coal mine building you have could have the end that now faces the brown wall, butted up against your mountain. The idea behind that placement is that small mine railroad cars move the coal out of an unseen mineshaft in the mountain and into the mine building. Then It can be dumped into hopper cars spotted on the siding underneath the building, as you have it now.[/B][/B] for you to think about, and decide if you want to use them or not.
> 
> good luck & have fun;
> 
> Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:



ok that makes more sense and i shall rearrange the track

:smilie_daumenpos:


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## QueenoftheGN

Like this?


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## QueenoftheGN

And this?


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## QueenoftheGN

Ok new layout design critique me well pls


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## traction fan

*To the mountain*



firescales22 said:


> Like this?


 firescales22;

Well yes, but if you want the mine to look more plausible, there has to be some way for the newly mined coal, in the small, narrow gage mine cars, to get up into the second floor of the mine building, so that it can be dumped into large hopper cars. I haven't seen that little mine building for many years, but if I remember correctly, there was a short set of narrow gage mine rails on the flat portion of the second floor. I think the pieces of mine railway track you have should come out of a hole (mine shaft entrance) and out to the upper part of the main building. If you can send me some photos of the other sides and the top view of that mine building, it might refresh my memory. Did the little mine car and track sections come with the mine building, or did you buy them separately?

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


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## CTValleyRR

firescales22 said:


> ok that makes more sense and i shall rearrange the track
> 
> :smilie_daumenpos:


Another option would be to put a lip around the outside (clear lexan, foam, hardboard doesn't matter) about an in higher than the layou surface, which will keep any wayward equipment from taking the death plunge to the floor.


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## QueenoftheGN

traction fan said:


> firescales22;
> 
> Well yes, but if you want the mine to look more plausible, there has to be some way for the newly mined coal, in the small, narrow gage mine cars, to get up into the second floor of the mine building, so that it can be dumped into large hopper cars. I haven't seen that little mine building for many years, but if I remember correctly, there was a short set of narrow gage mine rails on the flat portion of the second floor. I think the pieces of mine railway track you have should come out of a hole (mine shaft entrance) and out to the upper part of the main building. If you can send me some photos of the other sides and the top view of that mine building, it might refresh my memory. Did the little mine car and track sections come with the mine building, or did you buy them separately?


do you remember the company that made it i got it at a train show for 5$ but no box and only half the instructions:laugh: and i would like another one also the tracks came from the Micro engineering poor boy mine kit that is on top of the hill :smilie_daumenpos: 

:smilie_daumenpos:[/QUOTE]


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## Tom_C

Is there any reference on the instructions (perhaps on the bottom of the pages) that indicate a copy-write or other information that may suggest a manufacturer? Post closeup pics of the instructions you have.


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## QueenoftheGN

Ok here is the instructions the back is blank tho


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## QueenoftheGN

I had to extend the yard to fit traction fan’s suggestions but it worked


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## QueenoftheGN

Here is more closeup pics


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## QueenoftheGN

Okay finished


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## Tom_C

firescales22 said:


> do you remember the company that made it i got it at a train show for 5$ but no box and only half the instructions:laugh: and i would like another one also the tracks came from the Micro engineering poor boy mine kit that is on top of the hill :smilie_daumenpos:
> 
> :smilie_daumenpos:


It looks like a kit, so I'm not surprised there is no box. Here is a similar one:

https://www.ebay.com/p/25012043010?iid=383304983282&rt=nc


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## QueenoftheGN

Okay some searching found that it is called the “blue coal depot” by model power


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## QueenoftheGN

Okay so further searching uncover that this is called “blue coal depot l” by model power


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## Tom_C

firescales22 said:


> Okay some searching found that it is called the “blue coal depot” by model power


I don't think that's it, the blue coal depot is the one I posted... (*wait, no it's not, nevermind*) But, I wouldn't want to have 2 identical buildings, it might look a little hinky. 

Oh, it might be the blue coal depot N scale. Here's a really blurry picture on pats trains, that has the same roof dormers. 

http://www.patstrains.com/View_Details/?ID=10702


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## QueenoftheGN

https://www.nscaleamericantrains.co.uk/36285-8978-large/blue-coal-depot.jpg Oh here the older one that I have


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## QueenoftheGN

Ignore that post I just made u posted that As I was typing that one


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## Tom_C

NP. Here is an HO version:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MODEL-POWE...055714?hash=item2cf3cffee2:g:9ygAAOSwI3BdZAw8

And here is the N scale that looks to be like yours.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Model-Powe...625460&hash=item365b1c508c:g:xFQAAOSwOGleB4PZ


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## QueenoftheGN

Yep that N scale one is mine


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## QueenoftheGN

What wheel type is better metal or plastic?


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## Tom_C

Metal.

And, sorry, for some reason I thought you had HO.


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## QueenoftheGN

Tom_C said:


> Metal.
> 
> And, sorry, for some reason I thought you had HO.



nope N and metal is what i thought
:smilie_daumenpos:


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## traction fan

*Sorry no*



firescales22 said:


> do you remember the company that made it i got it at a train show for 5$ but no box and only half the instructions:laugh: and i would like another one also the tracks came from the Micro engineering poor boy mine kit that is on top of the hill :smilie_daumenpos:
> 
> :smilie_daumenpos:


[/QUOTE]

firescales22;

Nice clear photos! I was right about the narrow gage mine railroad track being on the model of the mine building. It's on the flat black "balcony" section in your photo. It shows two sets of rails meeting in a hand powered turntable (the circular part in the middle) This is where I was suggesting your track should connect to the building. The car would be pushed along the track to the turntable rotated 90 degrees if coming in on the longer set of rails on that black "balcony" and then pushed into the mine. The track might need to be on top of a trestle with walkways (see photo) for the miners. Actually there should be a plank walkway between the rails for the miners to walk on while pushing the car. My larger coal dump trestle gets full-size hopper cars pushed onto it by a locomotive so workers would use the walkways out on the sides.

The only mine car I could find was the Micro Engineering one, and that was found in a 2009 Walthers catalogue. The 2019 Walthers catalogue doesn't show the mine car, and neither book had the track. You could easily make your own car and/or track though. The track might be formed from HO-scale ladders, and the car is a simple box on fake crude wheels. A simple piece of plastic rod could be shaped into wheels. The box could be made from small pieces of plastic glued together, or there are hollow square and rectangular shapes made by Plastruct and Evergreen that would provide the box, by cutting off what you need.

good luck, have fun;

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## QueenoftheGN

firescales22;

The only mine car I could find was the Micro Engineering one, and that was found in a 2009 Walthers catalogue. The 2019 Walthers catalogue doesn't show the mine car, and neither book had the track. You could easily make your own car and/or track though. The track might be formed from HO-scale ladders, and the car is a simple box on fake crude wheels. A simple piece of plastic rod could be shaped into wheels. The box could be made from small pieces of plastic glued together, or there are hollow square and rectangular shapes made by Plastruct and Evergreen that would provide the box, by cutting off what you need.

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:[/QUOTE]

oh ok! i will try that
:smilie_daumenpos:
and yes the track only comes in the kit


----------



## traction fan

*OK you've got it*



firescales22 said:


> Okay finished


firescales22;

I looked further along in this thread and found the photo where you have the track coming into the mine building at the right spot. However you might want to make things easier, and a lot less dangerous, for your N-scale miners by eliminating that steep grade in the mine track. I wouldn't want to try pushing a heavy loaded mine car up that 45 degree slope! You might also build a mineshaft entrance high enough on the hillside that the steep slope would be eliminated. The track could be up on a simple trestle. (see photo)


Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## QueenoftheGN

okay i will see if i have the stuff to build that trestle it is cool and yah i would look more realistic, also how did you do that weathering job it look really good!
:smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## traction fan

*Weathering*



firescales22 said:


> okay i will see if i have the stuff to build that trestle it is cool and yah i would look more realistic, also how did you do that weathering job it look really good!
> :smilie_daumenpos:


firescales22;

I do my weathering with chalks. Look in the "My Layout" section of the forum for a post titled "Beginnings of a new layout" by MatroxD. He asked the same question, and there is some discussion back and forth between he and I about weathering with chalks. It's in some of the last pages of that long thread.

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## QueenoftheGN

oh okay i will check that out now
:smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## tbarber1027

*N-scale loco reviews...*



rrjim1 said:


> NO! N-scale loco reviews here, check them out.
> 
> http://www.spookshow.net/


-------------
This is a very impressive collection of info WOW! 
I found my Bachmann loco, the guy had pics of it dismantled.


----------



## QueenoftheGN

tbarber1027 said:


> -------------
> This is a very impressive collection of info WOW!
> I found my Bachmann loco, the guy had pics of it dismantled.


what model do you have?
:smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## QueenoftheGN

CTValleyRR said:


> Another option would be to put a lip around the outside (clear lexan, foam, hardboard doesn't matter) about an in higher than the layou surface, which will keep any wayward equipment from taking the death plunge to the floor.


so far only 1 loco has taken the "death plunge" and i got it working again then my sister threw it into the brick wall and broke it so now it does not run very well and its shell is messed up:smilie_daumenneg: 

:smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## Tom_C

So, what did you do to your sister to make her brick your loco?


----------



## QueenoftheGN

Tom_C said:


> So, what did you do to your sister to make her brick your loco?


i finished the chocolate milk MY chocolate milk that I bought


----------



## Shdwdrgn

@firescale22 -- just ignore those comments, a moderator will be by soon to delete them from your thread and get rid of this nuisance. In the meantime there's no reason to even acknowledge his replies, just carry on and enjoy what you're building.


----------



## Big Ed

Shdwdrgn said:


> @firescale22 -- just ignore those comments, a moderator will be by soon to delete them from your thread and get rid of this nuisance. In the meantime there's no reason to even acknowledge his replies, just carry on and enjoy what you're building.


Get rid of 2 of them, the a s s joined twice.
Look at the new member list he changed a O to o and signed up twice. Same handle. I guess he knew he would be banned and no one would see the other.
Looks like he has a screw or 2 missing? :smilie_daumenneg:


----------



## caldwest

I hope the moderator will close this thread.


----------



## Big Ed

caldwest said:


> I hope the moderator will close this thread.


Should not close but he will get rid of the comments.


----------



## QueenoftheGN

Big Ed said:


> Get rid of 2 of them, the a s s joined twice.
> Look at the new member list he changed a O to o and signed up twice. Same handle. I guess he knew he would be banned and no one would see the other.
> Looks like he has a screw or 2 missing? :smilie_daumenneg:


:smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## tbarber1027

firescales22 said:


> what model do you have?
> :smilie_daumenpos:


---
My Bachmann loco is an N-scale EMD GP40 Santa Fe #3808 (blue & yellow). I also found info and pics of the prototype on the Web!  This hobby is FASCINATING!


----------



## QueenoftheGN

tbarber1027 said:


> ---
> My Bachmann loco is an N-scale EMD GP40 Santa Fe #3808 (blue & yellow). I also found info and pics of the prototype on the Web!  This hobby is FASCINATING!


cool!
:smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## QueenoftheGN

Big Ed said:


> Get rid of 2 of them, the a s s joined twice.
> Look at the new member list he changed a O to o and signed up twice. Same handle. I guess he knew he would be banned and no one would see the other.
> Looks like he has a screw or 2 missing? :smilie_daumenneg:



NOBODY PANIC i just texted my friend eric after some suggesting and IP and seeing stationstar101's email yup it is the same as mine and the only friend that knows my email is him and he fessed up (only after i told him i would give him some food):laugh: 
thx gunrunnerjohn tho :smilie_daumenpos::smilie_daumenpos::smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## CTValleyRR

firescales22 said:


> NOBODY PANIC i just texted my friend eric after some suggesting and IP and seeing stationstar101's email yup it is the same as mine and the only friend that knows my email is him and he fessed up (only after i told him i would give him some food):laugh:
> thx gunrunnerjohn tho :smilie_daumenpos::smilie_daumenpos::smilie_daumenpos:


Well, I'm glad it wasn't really someone being nasty. Although from what I understand (I didn't see any of it) his sense of humor is a little off. We try to keep things friendly here, and don't like to see that kind of thing, even in fun. 

Does your friend like trains too? Have him join for real and make some positive contributions to the discussion.


----------



## QueenoftheGN

CTValleyRR said:


> Well, I'm glad it wasn't really someone being nasty. Although from what I understand (I didn't see any of it) his sense of humor is a little off. We try to keep things friendly here, and don't like to see that kind of thing, even in fun.
> 
> _Does your friend like trains too_? Have him join for real and make some positive contributions to the discussion.



yah sort of he does have 1 loco and some cars he likes crashing them and stuff like that he does a terrible sense of humor tho! 
:smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## QueenoftheGN

post removed by ME!


----------



## Tom_C

I suspected something like this. BTW, enough with the emoticons, I might get a seizure!


----------



## QueenoftheGN

I will go disable them rn


----------



## QueenoftheGN

ok so this might sound stupid but whats a "wormgear" and a "driveshaft"


----------



## traction fan

*Worm gears & driveshafts*



firescales22 said:


> ok so this might sound stupid but whats a "wormgear" and a "driveshaft"


firescales22;

Asking questions is not stupid. It shows you are interested in learning.

A worm gear is a gear shaped like a machine screw.The threads of a worm gear mesh with the teeth of a conventional "spur"* gear shaped like a coin with teeth around the outside. The wom gear must rotate several times to rotate the spur gear once. This arrangement of worm, and spur, gears is used for reducing the high speed of an electric motor's central, steel, "drive shaft"** to a speed that will let a locomotive roll down the track at a reasonable speed.
Basic physics says that a mechanism can trade speed for mechanical power. Thus while the worm & spur drops the speed it gains power. If you lock at the jack of your family's automobile, you will likely see a screw, which is another form of a worm gear. Turning the jack's handle many times, by hand, will slowly raise the car. It would be impossible for all but extremely strong, body builder, type humans to lift one end of a car without the jack. Low speed, but lots of power. 

"Stupid" is a very mild description of the recent behavior of your "friend" who seems to think using cuss words, and mean-spirited insults of your layout, on this forum, is "new", or "funny." Both are older than the two of you put together, and wasting the time of good people trying to help you isn't amusing in the least.

Traction Fan 

* The name "spur" gear probably comes from the shape of the spurs a cowboy wears on his boots, and uses to control his horse.

** "Drive Shaft" is a very general term covering any long, round "shaft" that spins to move, or "drive" something. Today most passenger autos have front wheel drive, but older cars have a drive shaft that runs from the front-mounted engine to the rear wheels that drive the car. These old autos had a pronounced "hump" running down the center of the floor, to house the drive shaft. Modern heavy trucks and 4-wheel drive vehicles use a similar drive shaft arrangement.


----------



## QueenoftheGN

traction fan said:


> firescales22;
> 
> Asking questions is not stupid. It shows you are interested in learning.
> 
> A worm gear is a gear shaped like a machine screw.The threads of a worm gear mesh with the teeth of a conventional "spur"* gear shaped like a coin with teeth around the outside. The wom gear must rotate several times to rotate the spur gear once. This arrangement of worm, and spur, gears is used for reducing the high speed of an electric motor's central, steel, "drive shaft"** to a speed that will let a locomotive roll down the track at a reasonable speed.
> Basic physics says that a mechanism can trade speed for mechanical power. Thus while the worm & spur drops the speed it gains power. If you lock at the jack of your family's automobile, you will likely see a screw, which is another form of a worm gear. Turning the jack's handle many times, by hand, will slowly raise the car. It would be impossible for all but extremely strong, body builder, type humans to lift one end of a car without the jack. Low speed, but lots of power.
> 
> [/B]"Stupid" is a very mild description of the recent behavior of your "friend" who seems to think using cuss words, and mean-spirited insults of your layout, on this forum, is "new", or "funny." Both are older than the two of you put together, and wasting the time of good people trying to help you isn't amusing in the least.*
> 
> Traction Fan
> 
> * The name "spur" gear probably comes from the shape of the spurs a cowboy wears on his boots, and uses to control his horse.
> 
> ** "Drive Shaft" is a very general term covering any long, round "shaft" that spins to move, or "drive" something. Today most passenger autos have front wheel drive, but older cars have a drive shaft that runs from the front-mounted engine to the rear wheels that drive the car. These old autos had a pronounced "hump" running down the center of the floor, to house the drive shaft. Modern heavy trucks and 4-wheel drive vehicles use a similar drive shaft arrangement.*


*


i never said i thought i was funny
but thank you answering my question*


----------



## CTValleyRR

firescales22 said:


> i never said i thought i was funny
> but thank you answering my question


He didn't either. He said your friend's behavior wasn't funny, and most people on this forum don't consider that kind of thing amusing.


----------



## traction fan

*i never said i thought i was funny?*



firescales22 said:


> i never said i thought i was funny
> but thank you answering my question


 firescales22;

You reply puzzles me a bit. you sent "i never said i thought i was funny" 

I hope this is just a typo and that you meant to say I never said I thought it was funny. Without the letter 't' you sound like you were in on the hoax, or sent it to yourself. I sincerely hope that is not true. 

Traction Fan


----------



## QueenoftheGN

traction fan said:


> firescales22;
> 
> You reply puzzles me a bit. you sent "i never said i thought i was funny"
> 
> I hope this is just a typo and that you meant to say I never said I thought it was funny. Without the letter 't' you sound like you were in on the hoax, or sent it to yourself. I sincerely hope that is not true.
> 
> Traction Fan


yah typo i type fast and i learned it weird so sometimes i miss keys or spell stuff wrong but i will check it if it has the red lines underneath then i know i spelled it wrong but "i" is a word so it didnt think that it was wrong but yes i did mean to type "it"
:smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## kflorian

CTValleyRR said:


> Just came back to this thread. You're right (everyone who has commented), my comment was needlessly snippy, and I apologize.


:appl:


----------



## Tom_C

firescales22 said:


> ... but "i" is a word...


No, "i" is a letter. "I" is a word.


----------



## QueenoftheGN

Tom_C said:


> No, "i" is a letter. "I" is a word.


well yes... but still "i" and "I" are interchangeable 
:smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## Tom_C

Um, no.


----------



## kflorian

Tom_C said:


> Um, no.


This is a fact.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

firescales22 said:


> well yes... but still "i" and "I" are interchangeable
> :smilie_daumenpos:


Are you passing the English writing classes in that school? Specifically, the rules for capitalization?


----------



## QueenoftheGN

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Are you passing the English writing classes in that school? Specifically, the rules for capitalization?



ahh no i got a c+ in it last semester :smilie_daumenneg:
:smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Keep writing like that and that score will decrease!


----------



## QueenoftheGN

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Keep writing like that and that score will decrease!



:laugh:


----------



## QueenoftheGN

https://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/bac/bac63560.htm i want to should i?


EDIT: ok i did lets hope it was worth it!


----------



## utahbelt76

Oh i have that one it's worth it i would recommend Hobbylinc to everybody!


----------



## QueenoftheGN

utahbelt76 said:


> Oh i have that one it's worth it i would recommend Hobbylinc to everybody!


good
:smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## QueenoftheGN

firescales22 said:


> OK i have 1 kato engine it runs OK but i dont have much money so i dont buy a lot of kato engines but i do h


----------



## tbarber1027

firescales22 said:


> what d you mean?


-----
Your web site is VERY impressive! I found my Bachman loco (EMD GP40). You must have put a lot of time into this web site. Nice work! :appl:


----------



## QueenoftheGN

tbarber1027 said:


> -----
> Your web site is VERY impressive! I found my Bachman loco (EMD GP40). You must have put a lot of time into this web site. Nice work! :appl:



not my website....


----------



## nxn

clearly the senior members of this forum have never done much texting...


----------



## QueenoftheGN

I agree...


----------



## MichaelE

Clearly, the younger members here have never practiced any proper writing.


----------



## QueenoftheGN

?????


----------



## QueenoftheGN

Oh wait, clearly the some older members here can’t take small statement from a person they don’t even know


----------



## tbarber1027

firescales22 said:


> not my website....


----
I was referring to http://www.spookshow.net/


----------



## QueenoftheGN

I know.


----------



## QueenoftheGN

I did not make spook show.net


----------



## CTValleyRR

firescales22 said:


> Oh wait, clearly the older members here can’t take small statement from a person they don’t even know


Not at all. Most people here can take any "statement".. as long as it's accurate.

Yours isn't. These aren't text messages. This is a discussion forum. (Take note, nxn -- it isn't that we don't text; it's that we're smart enough to understand the difference). And even in a text message, clarity rules. Unless you're sure of your audience, use clear written communication. Take the extra few seconds to use proper grammar, capitalization and spelling. You make your point more effectively, and it helps your audience distinguish between a typo and a deliberate statement.

About the worst thing you can do is to suggest that there is something wrong with your audience when the problem is with your communication.


----------



## QueenoftheGN

Okay. Well I stand corrected


----------



## tbarber1027

CTValleyRR said:


> Not at all. Most people here can take any "statement".. as long as it's accurate.
> 
> Yours isn't. These aren't text messages. This is a discussion forum. (Take note, nxn -- it isn't that we don't text; it's that we're smart enough to understand the difference). And even in a text message, clarity rules. Unless you're sure of your audience, use clear written communication. Take the extra few seconds to use proper grammar, capitalization and spelling. You make your point more effectively, and it helps your audience distinguish between a typo and a deliberate statement.
> 
> About the worst thing you can do is to suggest that there is something wrong with your audience when the problem is with your communication.


---
In verbal conversations, I frequently say "OMG" instead of "Oh My God" and it cracks people up - makes them THINK!  
What does nxn mean?


----------



## QueenoftheGN

He means that some senior members of the forum don’t really understand text message talk IE: u ttyl stfu omg wwubt ect.


----------



## clovissangrail01

firescales22 --

Fix the grammar, punctuation and spelling errors in the following post, and then you can criticize the senior members of the forum for not texting.



firescales22 said:


> Wait. There still in business? They don’t have website that I have found I might be oblivious (wouldn’t surprise me) and I can’t seem to find any sign of them in business also this ain’t the only time this has happened but when your missing a hole WALL you really can’t forgive them immediately


----------



## Big Ed

firescales22 said:


> He means that the senior members of the forum don’t really understand text message talk IE: u ttyl stfu omg wwubt ect.


adlock:

Watch your language whipper snapper, some can read your text.
:cheeky4:

This thread ought to be locked as it is only a bunch of BS to get your idiotic post count up!

The same goes for most of your comments.
That is what you turned your thread into, nothing now but BS.:thumbsdown:


----------



## nxn

tbarber1027 said:


> ---
> What does nxn mean?


That would be me Dave Nixon - I'm a lazy typist hence my last name got contracted to nxn in my first Unix login and the handle has stuck ever since.


----------



## QueenoftheGN

Big Ed said:


> adlock:
> 
> Watch your language whipper snapper, some can read your text.
> :cheeky4:
> 
> *This thread ought to be locked as it is only a bunch of BS to get your idiotic post count up!
> 
> The same goes for most of your comments.*
> That is what you turned your thread into, nothing now but BS.:thumbsdown:


wrong.


----------



## prrfan

firescales22 said:


> Big Ed said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Watch your language whipper snapper, some can read your text.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *This thread ought to be locked as it is only a bunch of BS to get your idiotic post count up!
> 
> The same goes for most of your comments.*
> That is what you turned your thread into, nothing now but BS.<img src="http://www.modeltrainforum.com/images/smilies/cool.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Cool" class="inlineimg" />
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wrong.
Click to expand...

No, right, actually. Ok, up to this point I think we have given you (Firescales) the benefit of the doubt. Maybe part of that is that you disclosed that you are a 13 year old girl. 
In addition, you seemed at first to have an interest in model railroading. After reading your last posts, I’m beginning to doubt both premises. 
Why would someone presumably interested in a hobby come on a forum and act in a disrespectful way? Kidding is kidding, but you crossed the line with your text abbreviation post. Yes, we understand txt shorthand. 
I for one will not be responding to any more of your posts. No great loss to you, since I readily admit I’m not near expert level. However, many other ‘senior members’ on here are. 
If they choose to do the same, it will indeed be a great loss to you, if you truly are interested in model railroading.


----------



## Big Ed

prrfan said:


> No, right, actually. Ok, up to this point I think we have given you (Firescales) the benefit of the doubt. Maybe part of that is that you disclosed that you are a 13 year old girl.
> In addition, you seemed at first to have an interest in model railroading. After reading your last posts, I’m beginning to doubt both premises.
> Why would someone presumably interested in a hobby come on a forum and act in a disrespectful way? Kidding is kidding, but you crossed the line with your text abbreviation post. Yes, we understand txt shorthand.
> I for one will not be responding to any more of your posts. No great loss to you, since I readily admit I’m not near expert level. However, many other ‘senior members’ on here are.
> If they choose to do the same, it will indeed be a great loss to you, if you truly are interested in model railroading.


I agree, you also have to remember that you can be whomever you want to be on the net.

A 13 year old girl, or 73 old lady.
Or a 73 year old man, acting as a 13 year old girl.

Hell, now a days it could be a cop trying to draw out a pervert.

The thread started from the get-go as>>>>>>controversial.
With the "friend" jumping in with all the cuss words. That has been deleted out of the thread now.
Funny that the "friend" had the same IP address as the OP. There was another "friend" who had the same address too.

Now there was a little about the OP's layout in the thread.
But was it the OP's? Maybe?

Seems to me that the OP just wants to get the post count up with all the gibberish that is being posted now. 

If you are really who you say you are and want to post about trains or ask questions. Do that!

Leave all the gibberish out.:smokin:


----------



## QueenoftheGN

As I said in another, post I stand corrected and also I can tell you right now I am not a undercover cop posing as a 13. Yr old to catch pervs


----------



## wvgca

firescales22 said:


> I am not a undercover cop posing as a 13. Yr old to catch pervs





uh, congratulations ??
So what does this have to do about trains ??


----------



## QueenoftheGN

wvgca said:


> *uh, congratulations* ??
> So what does this have to do about trains ??


just clearing things up...


----------



## QueenoftheGN

Big Ed said:


> I agree, you also have to remember that you can be whomever you want to be on the net.
> 
> A 13 year old girl, or 73 old lady.
> Or a 73 year old man, acting as a 13 year old girl.
> 
> Hell, now a days it could be a cop trying to draw out a pervert.
> 
> The thread started from the get-go as>>>>>>controversial.
> With the "friend" jumping in with all the cuss words. That has been deleted out of the thread now.
> Funny that the "friend" had the same IP address as the OP. *There was another "friend" who had the same address too.*
> 
> *Now there was a little about the OP's layout in the thread.
> But was it the OP's? Maybe?*
> 
> Seems to me that the OP just wants to get the post count up with all the gibberish that is being posted now.
> 
> *If you are really who you say you are* and want to post about trains or ask questions. Do that!
> 
> Leave all the gibberish out.:smokin:


yes. it is my layout.

when? (just asking.)

yes, i am who i say i am


----------



## tbarber1027

firescales22 said:


> He means that some senior members of the forum don’t really understand text message talk IE: u ttyl stfu omg wwubt ect.


--------------
"wwubt" is unknown to me.
Anyone know of a dictionary or lexicon somewhere on the Web?


----------



## QueenoftheGN

i don't remember exactly what it stands for (have not used it in a while) something along the lines of "wait while" forgot the rest ( i am sure i will remember at like 3:30 at night...)


----------



## tbarber1027

nxn said:


> That would be me Dave Nixon - I'm a lazy typist hence my last name got contracted to nxn in my first Unix login and the handle has stuck ever since.


---
I see. So you have some experience with UNIX.
Other software and systems as well?


----------



## Riggzie

tbarber1027 said:


> nxn said:
> 
> 
> 
> That would be me Dave Nixon - I'm a lazy typist hence my last name got contracted to nxn in my first Unix login and the handle has stuck ever since.
> 
> 
> 
> ---
> I see. So you have some experience with UNIX.
> Other software and systems as well?
Click to expand...

winderz guy here for a majjor biopharma


----------



## prrfan

tbarber1027 said:


> firescales22 said:
> 
> 
> 
> He means that some senior members of the forum don’t really understand text message talk IE: u ttyl stfu omg wwubt ect.
> 
> 
> 
> --------------
> "wwubt" is unknown to me.
> Anyone know of a dictionary or lexicon somewhere on the Web?
Click to expand...

https://www.urbandictionary.com/


----------



## CTValleyRR

tbarber1027 said:


> --------------
> "wwubt" is unknown to me.
> Anyone know of a dictionary or lexicon somewhere on the Web?


There is the urban dictionary that PRR posted.. but I think that particular one is a typo: wwyDt = why would you do that?


----------



## Tom_C

Shocking that a gibberish post would have a typo. And, yes, I feel it should be wwudt.

As a manager, I won't hire people like this.


----------



## CTValleyRR

Tom_C said:


> Shocking that a gibberish post would have a typo. And, yes, I feel it should be wwudt.
> 
> As a manager, I won't hire people like this.


Same here. People who are prone to using shortcuts in some aspects of their life are a high risk of using them in other areas -- like their work.

Where I work (General Dynamics Electric Boat), shortcuts get people killed and / or cause radioactive contamination.


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## deedub35

Ahh ... the millennial generation and later ... a lot of them are fricken lazy and have that sense of entitlement. I’m a general contractor and do a lot of bathroom and kitchen remodels as well as basement developments. I hear it from all my subtrades - they want the money but don’t want to do any of the work.


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## Tom_C

CTValleyRR said:


> Where I work (General Dynamics Electric Boat), shortcuts get people killed and / or cause radioactive contamination.


You work at EB?! In my former life I worked at IBM federal Systems... I'm sure you know those products!


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## nxn

Tom_C said:


> Shocking that a gibberish post would have a typo. And, yes, I feel it should be wwudt.
> 
> As a manager, I won't hire people like this.


I don't think it's a typo although urban dictionary doesn't have a definition of wwubt. However there is a clue, actually more of a giveaway in the definition of wwuba that urban dictionary does have. 

Dave


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## nxn

tbarber1027 said:


> ---
> I see. So you have some experience with UNIX.
> Other software and systems as well?


Was at Bell Labs in Naperville, IL for 10 years and then came out to Silicon Valley. Mostly javascript lately but now retired.

Dave


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## tbarber1027

Tom_C said:


> Shocking that a gibberish post would have a typo. And, yes, I feel it should be wwudt.
> 
> As a manager, I won't hire people like this.


----
I think that all this textspeak is a bunch of teenage HOGWASH (to be polite). I like to use proper English and spell out words, define acronyms. I must be old-fashioned.


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## tbarber1027

nxn said:


> Was at Bell Labs in Naperville, IL for 10 years and then came out to Silicon Valley. Mostly javascript lately but now retired.
> 
> Dave


----
I see. When the Web exploded around 1995 I worked for HP and Intel for several years, testing software on multiple OSes.


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## QueenoftheGN

nxn said:


> I don't think it's a typo although urban dictionary doesn't have a definition of wwubt. However there is a clue, *actually more of a giveaway in the definition of wwuba that urban dictionary does have.*
> 
> Dave


no. i don't think it is that...


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## QueenoftheGN

deedub35 said:


> Ahh ... *the millennial generation and later ... a lot of them are fricken lazy and have that sense of entitlement.* I’m a general contractor and do a lot of bathroom and kitchen remodels as well as basement developments. I hear it from all my subtrades - they want the money but don’t want to do any of the work.


although i will admit i am lazy hwell: i am not entitled at all....


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## Old_Hobo

He didn't say *you* are.....he said a lot of them.....so it's not all about you....

Or maybe you think it is; would that mean you think you really are entitled? :laugh:


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## QueenoftheGN

Old_Hobo said:


> He didn't say *you* are.....he said a lot of them.....so it's not all about you....
> 
> Or maybe you think it is; would that mean you think you really are entitled? :laugh:


i know he was not talking about me i just thought i would put my 2 cents in...:smokin:


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## QueenoftheGN

how Does my freight delivery area look I think I will make the town behind it and it will be called “Westover”


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## QueenoftheGN

Here is one with a UP consist being loaded with with the bottom of a caboose at westover freight yard


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## kflorian

MichaelE said:


> Clearly, the younger members here have never practiced any proper writing.


John McWhorter is a man who's spent a large amount of his life studying language has something to say about this.

As one who loves language and words, this lecture challenged and changed me.

Perhaps you, too?

https://www.ted.com/talks/john_mcwhorter_txtng_is_killing_language_jk

Ken "not a younger member" Florian


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## Old_Hobo

I agree.....


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## Old_Hobo

I agree....


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