# Anyone convert Mehano HO Steamer's to DDC ?



## Skylark-14 (Sep 13, 2016)

I am looking at finally converting my layout to DDC. Have the wonderful running loco's but do not want to risk damaging them if I do not have to. If there is ample room for the wiring under the cab and room in the tender for the decoder and speaker then fine, I will give it a try.

Any thoughts ?


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Do you mean DCC? Or am I confused?

I have 3 IHC "Command XXV" locos that were manufactured by Mehano. All of them were DCC-ready, with just an 8 pin plug and everything pre-wired and isolated. They were a breeze to convert. I'd imagine, though, that yours are older.

In mine, there is tons of room in the tender, and there is a little wiring harness that connects the decoder in the tender to the motor and lighting leads under the cabs. There is room under the cab for a small plastic plug for the wiring.

The tenders should be pretty easy to open up without harming anything. I'd have a look in there, and if all looks good, give the locos a shot.


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## Bwells (Mar 30, 2014)

DCC, Digital Command Control. Which model is it? I have an early 1980's 4-8-2 that I had apart recently for a motor swap and the boiler was pretty full of weight. Best bet would be the tender. You would need a 6 conductor connector between the two unless you hardwire it. Does yours have a smoke unit?

Opps, I think I talked over you CTV!


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Bwells said:


> Opps, I think I talked over you CTV!


No worries. All advice is good!


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## Skylark-14 (Sep 13, 2016)

Thanks for the quick reply's, they are not DDC ready but straight DC(mid 90's production). Only one has smoke (4-6-4 Hudson ) the other's do not(Bullet Nose 4-8-2, and 2-8-2 Mikado). I can live without the smoke if needed. The smoke unit is not hot enough to produce much smoke at a scale speed anyway. Nothing worse then watching a train run at a scale 100+ KPH when the prototype ran 40 to 50 max. That is the speed the local runs were here according to the schedules at the local Railway Museum.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Bwells said:


> You would need a 6 conductor connector between the two unless you hardwire it.


Speaking of that, the wires on mine were loose, so I put a shrink wrap tube around them. And promptly took it back off again. It was too stiff and made the tender derail. Make sure you allow enough play in the wires for your tender to corner at your minimum curve radius.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Those locos that are not DCC ready will require
a decoder that comes with various colored wires.
The decoders themselves are available in small sizes that can
easily fit in 99% of HO locos. Some are made
for N scale locos and can be used in HO if 
space is very limited.

The instructions that come with the decoders
will guide you on making the connections.

You might want to do a stall test on your
older locos to determine the amp draw so
that you can get a decoder that will be
good for that current. Most locos made in
the last 10 to 15 years should be OK.

Things to make note of when converting:

Make a note of which tab on the motor is
connected to the Red wire (right rail).

Make certain that the motor and it's tabs
are isolated from the frame and track.

Before you apply power for the first time,
make certain there is no short circuit in
the motor and light circuits.

None of my locos smoke, so let's hope members
who do have DCC locos with smoke can help on
that.

Don


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