# Stressed mom needs some help



## HOnewb (Jul 19, 2013)

Okay, so my dad thought it would be a great idea to get my 3 year old son a train set for his birthday. Alright, all fine and dandy. All I have to do it read the instructions right? No, he proceeds to buy HO trains individually that are from the 70s. So, about a month later here I am with 4 engines, box cars, gondolas and a couple cabooses, 300 pieces of track and a transformer. I know nothing about any of this. The power supply of course has buttons.. but they don't seem to work. The only thing I can get it to do is turn on and off. Makes the train go round, but it derails often from being too fast I gather.

The power supply is a Tech II Loco-Motion 2500. The only way I could get it to work was to hook up the leads to the fixed DC.

I have a Bowser PRR K-4 Pacific that's missing about a gazillion parts. A couple other engines that actually work. 1 being a Southern Pacific diesel I think. And the other two being shorter versions of that Bowser. The Southern Pac works fine after I superglued it back together. And the two smaller ones, one works fine with tender in tow, then randomly stopped working. And the other won't work with tender. 

The track is AHM, at least the oval that I have out as my test track. I think the rest is Atlas.

Basically what I would like to know is the easiest way to have the power supply functional to where I can control speed and all that jazz. I'd like to use the diesel as its the most modern looking and right now fully functional.

Anything else you need to know, just let me know.


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## Carl (Feb 19, 2012)

Call Grandpa.....he could be a hero if it got it running.


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## HOnewb (Jul 19, 2013)

Unfortunately he lives about 5 hours away... and probably knows about as much as I do.

Plus everytime I bring up an issue he goes "But its from the 70s" I reckon with all the money he's spent so far he could have just gotten a brand new O gauge set.


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## sanepilot (Mar 11, 2012)

*stressed*

Hi,Hobo.. Welcome to the forum.. Not to worry,if thes fellas can`t help you,no one else can. Ask around winstom-salem. You`d be surprised how many train nuts are there. Ask your neighbors first.

Cheers,Everett


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## D1566 (Jun 8, 2012)

Most model railway controllers have a 'controlled' output that should be connected to the track, giving you control of the train speeds, and an uncontrolled 12 or 18 volt output that can be used for lighting etc. I wonder if you have the right output connected to the track....?


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## HOnewb (Jul 19, 2013)

I first had the leads hooked up via the Variable DC, but couldn't get it to work, so switched the the Fixed DC and things started working. I'll try again with the Variable in a minute. Maybe it'll work now.


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## sanepilot (Mar 11, 2012)

*hobo*

Hi,again.. Most transformers are marked track and accessories close to the screws [four screws]. Should be a knob or way to go from o to full throttle.If possible post a photo of your transformer. 
Make sure your track is fairly level and the connections on each section of track are tight and clean your track with 90% alcohol and a kitchen scrub pad.Your loco`s might need oiled and cleaned.

Hope this helps,Everett


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## Grabbem88 (Feb 24, 2012)

On variable did you test train directly on track which the wires are ran to?

If it's a second hand controller most likely the prior owner over worked it and most likely damaged it somehow??


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## HOnewb (Jul 19, 2013)

I just got it to work on Variable, with throttle controls and full function of all the switches. Not sure why it wasn't working before. I did not know about oiling of the locos themselves. What's the best way to go about doing that?

It still seems a bit stuttery and the power monitor light on the transformer flickers in sync with the stutters. Maybe just corroded or oxidized spots on the track? I think I'm out of alcohol. Anything I can use to clean?


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## ssgt (Jan 8, 2013)

If the track is dirty it will make the locomotives stop or run erraticallyGo to your local train (hobby)shop and get a "brightboy" (similar to a pencil eraser) to clean your track.That should help.If you oil the locomotives,use light oil,like sewing machine oil, very sparingly.
The bowser stuff was probably kits.I'm a pennsylvania railroad modeler.If you want to sell the k-4,I'd be interested.


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## britblad (Jan 2, 2012)

I see your running the train on carpet get some kinda board or foam under it those trains will get full of carpet fibers and mess up the engines


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## HOnewb (Jul 19, 2013)

Yeah, this by no means a permanent thing. I did have it on the kitchen table, then moved it onto the kitchen floor, and now its in the spare bedroom. Just needed somewhere it could sit without being in the way. Now that you mentioned some board, I think we might have a few random pieces, oo, then I could nail down the track too!


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## britblad (Jan 2, 2012)

you might want to consider cork under the track for noise reduction not to mention if you ever decide to ballast the track you have a natural angle on the cork


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## sanepilot (Mar 11, 2012)

*track*

Hi, From the photo,your track looks really rusty.You need to be sure the track is really clean. Top of rail and the inside of the track.

Really nice SP. I have one.

Have a good day,Everett


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## Carl (Feb 19, 2012)

ssgt is right on the money.......either the track is rusty or someone did a great job in "weathering" the track with paint.


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## Gansett (Apr 8, 2011)

Could that track, being from the 70's, be brass and need a good cleaning?


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## HOnewb (Jul 19, 2013)

I thought it was brass at first as well, its obviously different than the Tyco track, which is silver in color. I've tacked it down onto some boards and cleaned the track a bit and I think its running much better. My son gets a kick out of it. Thanks for all the advice! Another question though. What kind of paints should I use to kinda restore some of the pieces. I have Enamel and some Acrylic paints for my model cars.


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## ssgt (Jan 8, 2013)

either type of paint will work.make sure you clean the surface well.use the same surface prep you use on your model cars.remove the shell,wash with soapy water,let dry ,then paint.


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

Hi and welcome to the forum. Have you taken your son to the NC transportation museum in Spencer NC?


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

As with having clean track, you get power through the wheels, clean the wheels also take a Q tip with some rubbing alcohol 99% or 91%. (Isopropanol 99% or 91%)
The best way to service (oil) your locomotive is to pop the shell off then very LIGHTLY apply some oil to it. They have applicator bottles with a needle tips for oiling. 
You don't want to over oil! 
Popping the shell off varies with different brands of locomotives.

If you just want to touch up some of the ding marks you can try with a sharpie pen.
They sell assortment packs with a whole bunch of colors that might work.
You don't want to repaint the whole thing right?

Clean track and clean wheels and a lightly oiled locomotive make for a happy train. 

They sell or you could make a track cleaning car we have some threads here on the subject. Then you could just pull it around every once and a while to help with keeping the track clean.

You can buy needle tip applicator bottles and fill the with oil or they sell various oils for engines. Some seem to think that that are not worth the money as other cheaper brands work just as good.

A link to Labelle's oil,
http://www.con-cor.com/Labelle.html


A picture of the track eraser/cleaner and bottles you can buy these bottles this picture came off an e bay auction.
After you use the eraser it is a good ideal to wipe the rails down with some rubbing alcohol. (Isopropanol 99% or 91%)


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## trainguru (Jun 28, 2011)

Hello Honewb, may I see the Bowser K-4, I might be able to guide you in the right direction on fixing it to run. I must warn you though, you'll be in for a few long nights repairing it though. Bowser discontinued the Steam Locomotives, but there are a ton of parts left over.

Also, may I see pictures of your whole locomotive fleet? I might be able to tell you more about them. Welcome to the forum by the way. -


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## Blenderdrvr (Oct 28, 2012)

> I first had the leads hooked up via the Variable DC, but couldn't get it to work, so switched the the Fixed DC and things started working. I'll try again with the Variable in a minute. Maybe it'll work now.


Maybe I missed it, I read through this kind of fast, on the picture of the transformer, you have the switch for momentum in the on position, not sure if anyone pointed this out before, reconnect the wires to the variable dc and then turn that second switch labeled momentum to off. If the transformer is working, the train will run with the knob.....


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## Ren (May 31, 2012)

I have the same controller. Fixed DC is the only way it will work. I still haven't figured out why variable is there.
turn off all the other buttons, start the train and then engage the buttons at slow speed. see if that helps.


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

I also have the same one, but it does not have the "momentum" switch. It works fine. I do have the newer one that does have the "momentum" and it works as it is supposed to.

What happens if you leave the momentum and brake switches in the off position?


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## Blenderdrvr (Oct 28, 2012)

> What happens if you leave the momentum and brake switches in the off position?


Brake is spring loaded to off position, momentum in the off position will allow the train to move with a corresponding input from the knob. Farther you turn clockwise faster you go and the opposite, if connected to variable hookups.


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

Blenderdrvr said:


> Brake is spring loaded to off position, momentum in the off position will allow the train to move with a corresponding input from the knob. Farther you turn clockwise faster you go and the opposite, if connected to variable hookups.


This question is for the OP. I was wondering if she tried leaving the switches in the off position and what happened. A good multimeter would be a way to test it. If nothing happens on the variable side, then the transformer is probably bad.

I know what is supposed to happen with the switches.


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## HOnewb (Jul 19, 2013)

Southern said:


> Hi and welcome to the forum. Have you taken your son to the NC transportation museum in Spencer NC?


I have not, will have to look into that! He'll probably get a kick out of it



big ed said:


> As with having clean track, you get power through the wheels, clean the wheels also take a Q tip with some rubbing alcohol 99% or 91%. (Isopropanol 99% or 91%)
> The best way to service (oil) your locomotive is to pop the shell off then very LIGHTLY apply some oil to it. They have applicator bottles with a needle tips for oiling.
> You don't want to over oil!
> Popping the shell off varies with different brands of locomotives.
> ...


Thanks so much!



trainguru said:


> Hello Honewb, may I see the Bowser K-4, I might be able to guide you in the right direction on fixing it to run. I must warn you though, you'll be in for a few long nights repairing it though. Bowser discontinued the Steam Locomotives, but there are a ton of parts left over.
> 
> Also, may I see pictures of your whole locomotive fleet? I might be able to tell you more about them. Welcome to the forum by the way. -


I created a whole photobucket album for you  And whomever else would like to look at it lol. Any more pics you need just ask. I always have the camera nearby.

http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/RebelChevyGal/library/Train



Blenderdrvr said:


> Maybe I missed it, I read through this kind of fast, on the picture of the transformer, you have the switch for momentum in the on position, not sure if anyone pointed this out before, reconnect the wires to the variable dc and then turn that second switch labeled momentum to off. If the transformer is working, the train will run with the knob.....


I might have had momentum in the off position when I tried before, I can't remember, but for whatever reason it is working hooked up to Variable now. That might have been my brain going, "Momentum must need to be on because it should be having momentum." Not that the switch was meant to keep momentum after already going lol 



rrgrassi said:


> This question is for the OP. I was wondering if she tried leaving the switches in the off position and what happened. A good multimeter would be a way to test it. If nothing happens on the variable side, then the transformer is probably bad.
> 
> I know what is supposed to happen with the switches.


Yeah I figured out the transformer issue... well there wasn't an issue. Rehooked it up to the Variable and it worked. Just some newbness on the initial try probably.


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## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

View attachment 29396


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## DavefromMD (Jul 25, 2013)

I'm new to the forum and saw your post. Here is something I recommend that works like magic to get older trains running smoothly, particularly on older track and temporary tracks.

Atlas Conduct-a-Lube. 

A very tiny drop on each of the power pick up wheels works wonders to make older non flywheel locomotive run smoothly. You can find it at hobby stores online or if you have a local train shop nearby, they may have it. It also helps prevent track corrosion as what is on the wheels gets spread over the rails.

It isn't cheap but it works wonderfully.


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## trainguru (Jun 28, 2011)

*Help on the K-4 4-6-2 from Bowser*

http://www.hoseeker.net/bowser.html

On this page, you can find all the instructions you need. The K-4 is on the end, top right corner of the four locomotive per row block of the page. Do not be alarmed that this locomotive's boiler (and tender maybe) are most likely cast from lead. This does not mean it's a health hazard, as this was common practice for model train makers to do years ago, even in the U.S.A. (this will give excelent pulling power,with the weight). My best suggestion, is for you to handel the locomotive for him, until he's a bit older. Also, be happy that this locomotive is not poorly cast zimac (then you have another can of worms to contend with! - ).

Bowser should have all the parts still, and here's the link to their price list:

http://www.bowser-trains.com/Prices/Bowser%20HO%20Parts%20Prices.htm

Mind you, this will be a heck of a time for you (sorting through the list and instructions and the assembly), but just imagine your son's joy seeing a big steam locomotive hauling the "Express Freight"! - - If that Southern Pacific diesel is Cast-Metal, then that would be a Varney NW-2 (have one, love it), and the little steam locomotives look like Mantua/Tyco. You can find instructions for all of them on HOseeker. God bless and speed with this layout! -


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## RUSTY Cuda (Aug 28, 2012)

No expert here but I thought the momentum switch was just for more realistic starts & stops, My tech 2 works with it off, if you push the throttle up quick the train takes off, with momentum on you can go instantly to full power & the train will start slow like a real train.
Should work both ways but it does take a long time to get moving with momentum on.


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## jerryrgs (Dec 12, 2012)

On your Tech II controller. I would always leave the momentum off. The purpose of the switch is to create more realistic starting and stopping. Instead of the train starting or stopping right away as you turn your control knob, it slowly adds power and reduces power to your engine. So as you apply power to the engine it will not start right away. It will slowly accelerate until it reaches full power. Same thing with stopping. Your engine will not stop right away as you reduce power. It will slowly come to a stop.
.
If some of the track is brass, I would suggest getting rid of it. Brass track gets dirty much faster and is more difficult to keep clean. Use only nickel silver track. 
.
You might consider buying a new engine.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bachmann-HO...733712?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item20d5c9ec50
.
You need a DC engine, not DCC. One with two wheels per axle. 
.
If you want to get some good track for your son, that will be easier for both of you at his age, consider Snap Track from Atlas or Bachmann.
.
https://secure.atlasrr.com/mod1/items.asp?Cc=H43&iTpStatus=0&Tp=&Bc=
.
My best suggestion would be to pack it all up until your son is 7-8 years old. Then he will be old enough to really use it and enjoy it. The two options for trains for a three year old are a O Scale Lionel Train set. Or the wooden Brio or Thomas sets. Which is what I would recommend for his age. With the wooden sets he can build different layouts and play with the trains. Do not get a table. Let him play with them on the floor. And as you buy more track he can create more interesting layouts. When our son was younger he had the Brio track. And that is all he wanted for birthdays and Christmas. He used to build layouts that filled the living room. Run trains for a while. Then have a tornado or earthshake and start over again.


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## DavefromMD (Jul 25, 2013)

Comment on 2 points jerryrgs made.

I agree with packing it up and breaking it out when you son is 7 or 8. Let him play with Brio trains for now. Yeah, it was a gift from grandpa, but explain to grandpa (if necessary) that he will be able to enjoy it when he is old enough.

As for the brass track. Don't get rid of it. It will serve you fine for your needs. You don't need to go out and buy new silver nickle track. I put up a multi track 4 x 8 layout each Christmas season that is mostly brass track and everything runs fine. Yeah, I need to clean it a couple times, but for a small layout, that is not an issue.


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