# Removing the rail flange?



## Lance Skene (Jan 6, 2014)

Im having some issues with a Spectrum steam loco where the 3 ridgid axles bind on a couple tight turn areas... Ive read where some people have removed the rail flange from the center wheels so Im just looking for more info and feedback on the subject... is it an effective fix, are there issues that can possibly arise, the how-to's and what tools are used, and if you've done it are you satified with the results.

The track is already fined tuned and soldered to the point of being able to run anything else I own at full throttle, only this particular loco is having issues. Not real excited about tearing this loco apart but unless someone has other suggestions it seems this might be my best option.


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## spoil9 (Dec 24, 2008)

What is the wheel configuration of this steam loco? ie: 0-6-0? 

Depending on this, I would consider thinning the flange before complete removal. As long as you've got enough wheels with a good flange it should stay on the tracks but I've never done this so I can't say for certain.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Sounds like your trying to run to large of a locomotive on to tight of turns.
What radius are the curves?


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## Lance Skene (Jan 6, 2014)

It is an 4-6-2 loco I think... a Spectrum Pennsylvania 1361, not really a big loco, and the radius is about 17-18ish in spots, and only two spots where its tight enough to be a nuisance, at very low speed it will make it past the tight spots but I can hear the motor is lugging, at about 40% power it will derail, track is glued so I dont really want to pull it up at this point now that everything else works so well.

ot... I switched all the rolling stock to metal wheels and added a track cleaner tanker this weekend so thats a nice upgrade


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

18" is the tightest radius that loco can take. I have an older PRR K4s Spectrum, and it would do just ok on 18" radius. 20" and up, it loves it.


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## pookybear (Feb 3, 2011)

It is called a blind driver when there is no Flange on the center drivers. Full size
rail roads also did this to get longer locomotives to negotiate tighter curves.

The Pennsylvania Rail Road used this configuration a lot on its horseshoe curve.










Many models use this also to do the same thing.

Pookybear


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

If you can make the wheels spin while you grind them, it will make for a smoother finish.

Lots of O scale have blind drivers, and Mantua did that with their HO pacifics (4-6-2)


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

Mantua did this on most all of their larger locomotives. I have a Pacific, Berk, Decapod and a Mikito that all have blind drivers. These locos can all handle 18r curves. The Decopod though does have issues with anything less than a perfect 18r at minimum.


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## Lance Skene (Jan 6, 2014)

Ive managed to get a few laps at full power after some major adjustments to the track and the loco... part of the problem was hitch between the loco and the tender which also did not allow for tight turns, it would bind and push the tender off trac, so Ive replaced that with a hand made aluminum pc.... which took 3 trys to get it exactly right. Still have a couple areas giving me problems if I try running the opposite direction but being able to run one way is better than no way...lol


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

Is your pilot truck derailing at all? I had an issue where the pilot truck would derail in one direction and not the other. When it derailed it was just a matter of time before the rest of the locomotive followed. Added a small amount of weight to it and that fixed it.


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## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

most well say, why full power?? its not realistic to run full on.


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## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

:thumbsup:


wingnut163 said:


> most well say, why full power?? its not realistic to run full on.


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

Sometimes full power or near full power is needed to make it up the grade or around a tight curve, because of the resistance.


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## Lance Skene (Jan 6, 2014)

Only had minor issues with the front truck on one of the 'Y' sections and it was easily cured with a little sand paper.

Why 'full power'... because Im building a toy for the grandkids... and theres a water feature... I need to know which pieces will stay on the track if a 6 yer old is controlling the throttle... I can ask him not to go fast... but I'd be silly to rely on that.

but anyway... the spectrum can now run at full power clockwise but not anti cw, so Im getting closer without triming the wheels so far... maybe I wont need to. Part of the issue was the link between loco and tender, as the loco entered the 'Y's the tail end swings out a bit and the link was binding against the loco and would pull the tender outward and off track, with a little modification and a hand built link between the two I resolved most of the issues.

One issue I cant resolve is the fact that a rookie built the layout... turns are a little tight at points and the slope is little steep... but for the most part its working very well, I have 5 locos and 14 pc rolling stock, the spectrum loco/tender is the only issue, I can run it but I likely wont let the kids play with it.


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## Fackler Rebel (Oct 26, 2013)

Glad somebody mentioned grade. My good 8351 requires about 80% throttle to climb the initial grade. As soon as the engine "get on top" I usually back down to 20 or 30% just enough to keep rolling. A couple of S turns on top and then a long sweeping down hill that goes under the "on top" trestles. A steady hand at the throttle is required on it will and has derailed, the whole train. A get more of a kick and trying to maintain a constant speed all the way around the layout. This stuff is fun!

Reb

P.S. Sounds like you've about got yours dialed in.


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