# Lionel 2034 running problem



## 3windowc (Dec 31, 2012)

I picked up a 2034 engine that would not run. Took the motor out of the body to check out. The wireing is all in good condition except the headlight bracket is missing and the wire cut but taped up. When on the track, the E- Unit cycles perfectly but it would not move in either direction. Took the armiture out and cleaned the commentator and brushes then reassembled. It is missing one roller pickup, replacements on order from Train Tender. Armiture shaft, gears and axles alll lubricated with 10w-40. Back onto the rails and wont move but get a slight jump when the E-Unit cycles ao it is trying. When I hold it up with jumpers connected to the roller pickup and motor frame, it runs great and free even if I hold it sideways and upside down. Back on the rails, wont move unless I press on it and give it a shove. Will run in reverse sometimes, goes a short distance and stops. Sounds like it is binding somewhere but everything feels free. Will not move in forward at all. Any idea?


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## SeaTroller (Feb 2, 2013)

I would wait until you replace the pick ups, sounds like the problem IMO. Runs with jumpers!!


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## TrainLarry (Jan 15, 2012)

It sounds like the wheels, pickup roller and/or track need a good cleaning. Use naphtha to clean everything. The fact that the loco runs off the tracks is proof that the loco is not getting power properly. It should run properly with just one roller.

Scrape any crud off the wheels, then finish up with naphtha.
Make sure the track is clean and free of rust, including the pins connecting the track together. 
Make sure the lockon is clean, and is tight on the rails also.

Larry


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## 3windowc (Dec 31, 2012)

I know the track is in good condition because I run other things on it almost daily. I Had thought of the wheels also and gave all the treads a light filing with my needle files and made the all shiny


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## L0stS0ul (Feb 6, 2015)

could it be shorting out? I had a train doing something similar and after a ton of investigation, tearing down, resoldering, it ended up being the front lamp was shorting on itself. It would trip the breaker on my power supply if I left power to it long enough.


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## 3windowc (Dec 31, 2012)

Light are on on the switches, E-Unit is cycling and humming so it is getting power without a short.


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## TrainLarry (Jan 15, 2012)

If the e-unit is cycling properly and the loco does not run, then it sounds like either an e-unit or motor issue.

You need to isolate the e-unit and motor to diagnose your problem.

Disconnect all wires from the motor. Jump one brush connection to the field wire connection. Connect one transformer wire to the other brush connection, and the other transformer wire to chassis ground. The motor should run. Reverse the 2 brush connections and power up, and the motor should run in reverse. The motor MUST pass this test. If it does not, check for worn brushes or weak brush springs. 

If the motor passes this test, the problem is with the e-unit, and a repair of the unit is necessary.

Larry


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Ditto to Larry's thinking.

Just because the e-unit is "cycling" doesn't mean that it's necessarily working fully. By "cycling", you likely mean that you hear the plunger go up and down with each track power on/off. But that's just part of it's job. When the plunger goes up/down, it should turn the little drum 1/8 turn, and in doing so, little copper fingers (6 in all) should make FULL contact with the drum to re-route power to the loco to determine direction (or neutral). It may be that those fingers (or the drum itself) are faulty.

You said that the motor runs when you hold the loco in your hand (with power to the pickup, and the frame ground back to the transformer). Does it do this with the loco upright? By rotating the loco (sideways, etc.), perhaps the fingers (or drum) are deflecting to engage? Remember, too, that the plunger needs gravity to cycle. The e-unit will not cycle if you hold the loco sideways or upside down.

Back to Larry, though ... if you can remove the e-unit from the equation, you can better isolate the problem.

Here's one other thought, along the lines of a short between the motor and the loco shell...

Remove the motor from the shell, and put the motor (only) on the track. Does it run? Remove the drive rod components, too.

Simplify the components will help figure things out.

TJ


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## 3windowc (Dec 31, 2012)

Motor is out of the shell. Runs fine if held in normal position or turned over. I 1st thought that maybe there was rust on the axles and not grounding through the wheels to the outside rail but runs fine when held. Can there be enough wear in the axle bearings to cause the gears to bind up?


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Friction is possible from lots of sources, gears included. Are all gear teeth cleaned/lubed? Ditto to axle bearings? Did you remove all drive rod linkage components?


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## 3windowc (Dec 31, 2012)

Drive rods are off, gears and axles oiled with 10w-40. I can roll the wheels by hand easily. If it is off the track it runs smoothly.


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## TrainLarry (Jan 15, 2012)

Does the loco roll freely when on the track?
Are the pickup rollers clean and free of dirt and corrosion?
Are the rollers making good contact with the center rail?

With the loco off the track, connect one transformer lead to a pickup roller, and touch the other transformer lead to a wheel tread to see if the loco runs. Do this to all wheels and both rollers. 

If the loco runs in all combinations of hookup off the track, there should be no reason that it does not run on track.

Another thing to check is the wear of the wheel bearings. Try to move each wheel up and down in its' bearing, and front to back. All the wheels should be tight with no play. A little side to side play in the chassis is normal.

The motor armature bearings needs to be checked also. The armature should run true, and no observable wobble of the ends of the armature should be seen in the brushplate bearing or the rear armature bearing plate.

If you could post a few clear pictures of the locomotive chassis and the underside, it would be of help.

Larry


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I'd clean the lock on connector and track first. I am not familiar with your layout so I thought I would mention it.

I like the 2034 engine, simple and durable.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Another thought ...

I'd simplify and isolate the track itself. I.e., run power to just two or three sections of track that simply dead-end on both ends. That'll limit any possibility of a short somewhere in the track (or ties). Does the loco run on this short test track?

TJ


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

The fact that it works "smoothly" everywhere but the track is pointing to a possible e-unit issue. Since other items work on the same track, that can be ruled out fairly quickly. Run it slowly without the shell on paying attention to the e-unit. I'd go so far as to cycle it to one direction and trip the lockout lever. With the e-unit locked in one direction see if the problem persists. 

While you're inspecting things, take a close look at the "nubs" the drum pivots on, if the drum is loose it could be jostled enough to lose contact. Make sure the drum surface is clean. You can clean the drum surfaces by attaching a small piece of scotch-brite pad to a q-tip and carefully clean it without removing the drum.

EDIT: Remove the commutator and look for contact, it's possible the brush plate is allowing the comm to move and contact the field coil. We've all seen that problem before. Sometimes you can loosen the brush plate and shift it slightly and get it to work for a bit as well.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Agreed with all the above, how does the pu roller look? As was stated if its not making good contact or if it dosent have enough tension that could be a problem as you have only the one. Also, recheck wires, give them a little tug, I had a loco that was working on and off, the wires looked good but solder connection was broken. As the loco shifted the wire would either make contact, so it would work or come off, so it wouldn't. Now I give the wires a little tug to make sure there on good.


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## 3windowc (Dec 31, 2012)

I am going to wait until I get the new pickups from Train Tender, should be in the middle of next week. All the wires are well connected and the insulation is good. It may be getting enough power to run the E-Unit but not enough to spin the armiture. I will run in both directions if I hold it and run jumpers directly to the pickup and frame so I know the E-Unit and wires are all good. There is some play at the wheel bearings but I cant get it to bind with pressure on the wheels. This weekend I will try jumping directly to the wheels and not the frame.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Some of these have been mentioned before. Look at brush length, spring tension on the brushes and. The wobble from the armature spinning on the brush plate. Under a load it may jamb, but spin freely with no load. A classic worn engine.


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## 3windowc (Dec 31, 2012)

I know what you mean on the brushes. Had a 1681 that ran poorly until I replaced the brushes and springs and then it ran like a champ. This engine looks good on the brushes & springs but will check for wear at the armiture.


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## 3windowc (Dec 31, 2012)

I know what you mean on the brushes & springs. Had a 1681 with bad springs, even streatching them did not help. Replaced the brushes & springs and it runds like a champ. The brushes & springs in this one looked good. Will check for wear at the armiture.


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## TrainLarry (Jan 15, 2012)

The second roller is not going to solve the problem. The very small amount of current that an E-unit draws would not keep the motor from spinning on the rails. Chances are that the worn bearings you mention are the cause of your problem.

Hold the loco in the air with one hand, holding the wheels tight, with power wires connected to it like you have done in the past. Apply power and see if you feel the motor turning and trying to spin the wheels. Let the wheels spin, and then try and slow them down by lightly squeezing the wheels, acting as a brake. See what results you get.

Larry


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

It is very difficult to suggest. Even more without pictures. One picture could give the impression of a junk or jewel. Nowadays I go through a reconditioning process. I take it apart. Hopefully wheel bushings are good enough. The armature gets the copper part polished until the grooves are gone. The brush plate gets cleaned. I remove any old dirt oil grease on the motor. Check the center pickup wire and field wires. If all looks good then I bench test the motor for life. With a bunch of jumpers I may run it on the track. Then the reverse unit is next. Observe and replace worn parts. Polish the weight of the pawl. Check the lever for a snug fit. Your lever could be loose with a poor ground connection. When running I have seen the lever move just from the constant strain of turns. That gives you the general idea.


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## 3windowc (Dec 31, 2012)

It looks like worn axle bearings. The other night I suspended it over the track until the roller touched the center rail and the wheels just touched the outside rails. Thing ran like new. As soon as a I lowered it and the axles got weight on it stopped running and bound up....
Got out the wheel puller and tried to get the wheels off. Only succeeded in chipping a wheel flange..
Thanks for all the suggestions. I am just going to put it aside for now and move on the something interesting.


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## 3windowc (Dec 31, 2012)

OK back on the 2034. Took some time off to finish up a 2037 that I started gathering parts for 25 years ago. As mentioned earlier, tried with the wheel puller to get the wheels off the 2034 to replace the axle bearings. Wont budge. Tried prying them off with 2 large screw drivers and only succeeded in bending the motor frame. Time to try some heat. I ground down the diameter of a small punch to just under the size of the axle. Last night I got out my butane soldering stick without the soldering tip and heated the wheel hubs, staying away from the axles, on the gear side wheels. Using the big screwdrivers to pry under the wheels and liift up on the motor, my dad used the punch and hammer and we succeeded in popping off both drive wheels with no more damage. Now to get the axle bearings.


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## TrainLarry (Jan 15, 2012)

There are 2 different bearings for that locomotive. Here is the service manual with parts views and part numbers.

Larry


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## 3windowc (Dec 31, 2012)

Thanks. I have my Greenburg Manual. Olsen does not list the bearings. Smitty's says he has them.


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## TomW2034 (Jun 2, 2015)

I am trying to get my 2034 running again. Although it ran fine around 1973, it was seized when tried yesterday. After de-gunking & lightly oiling, it will sometimes run in reverse in my hand. Headlight is bright. It would appear the problem is with the E-unit. I would like to spray it with tuner spray but can’t get it anymore since Radio Shack went under. What is an available, safe cleaner for the electrical components?

Thanks,
Tom


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

The problem with tuner cleaner is that after it loosens up whatever gunk it encounters it has to run somewhere (which moves the crud until the cleaner evaporates).

Once the cleaner evaporates the crud stays wherever it was deposited. In a mechanical assembly that could cause other problems.

There are several good instructional posts and even some videos on disassembling and cleaning the e-unit. This is the best method.

Use a towel on your work surface to prevent small parts from rolling away and go to town. Forget chemicals and clean parts with scotch brite pads from the grocery store and small wire brushes.

E-units don't need lubrication, assemble dry.

Takes longer, but the results last longer.


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## 3windowc (Dec 31, 2012)

If the E unit cycles through but on runs in only one direction, it could be the metal strips on the drum are dirty and can be brightened with the scotchpad. Also look that the fingers are all making contact with the drum. Since you have the motor out of the shell anyway, pull the brush hold and brighten the end of the armiture. Also make sure the brushes are clean & free in the holders.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

I recommend oiling the stub shafts that the drum rotates on. I also recommend oiling the drum to reduce wear on the fingers that contact the drum. Use motor oil only for this. I repaired a drum in an E unit back in 1954 because one of the stub shafts was gone. I drilled a hole in the drum and used a short piece of wire to make a new shaft. It worked OK.


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## TomW2034 (Jun 2, 2015)

*Brite & Shiny did not help*

I pulled the E-unit out this morning and Scotch-brited the drum & pick-ups until clean & shiny. While I was at it, I pulled the armature and scotch-brited it too. Interestingly, I do not think there is that much wear on the engine. Both the armature bearing plate, and the brush plate armature holes appear to be the correct diameter.

But after re-assembly, nothing was any better. In fact, it did not run in reverse as well as it did yesterday. The motor is definitely getting power in forward. But it appears to be binding somehow. The Lionel Service manual does not list any thrust washers on the armature.

Am I somehow just re-assembling this thing wrong? It ran great in both directions when I was a kid.


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

TomW2034 said:


> Am I somehow just re-assembling this thing wrong? It ran great in both directions when I was a kid.


That's always possible, I've done it myself. When I reassemble the e-unit I always try to bend the copper contacts slightly in the direction of the drum to give them a little contact tension.

Motor should rotate easily (no bind) by rolling the wheels.

Every time power is applied the e-unit plunger should pull up and stay there and rotate the drum slightly (one tooth).

Two connections are made at the E-unit drum to run the motor (not in neutral, obviously) - one supplies power to one brush, the other supplies a 'ground' to the opposite brush through the armature windings. These connections are reversed to go in the opposite direction.

If you have a DMM you can either check the continuity of each brush to the center lead or ground (no power applied) as you cycle the e-unit by hand, or check the voltage at each brush (power applied).:smokin:


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Assuming the transformer speed control is not
changed, if you get the same voltage reading on the motor brushes
when E-unit is in forward or reverse, it would be my guess that
the thrust in reverse is causing a binding somewhere. If so,
the motor would also likely heat more than when it is
running forward.

Don


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## 3windowc (Dec 31, 2012)

Are the lead wires from the finger plates to the brush holder in good shape. I had one where it would only run in one direction and found a small spot where the insulation wore off and the bare wire touched the motor frame. A piece of electrical tape and it was OK


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

I had a problem like this recently with a loco and a whistle motor. The brushes were sticking in the brush holder. I cleaned the brushes with some alcohol, and cleaned out the brush holder with a small wire brush in a drill.


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## TomW2034 (Jun 2, 2015)

*Full Speed Ahead!*

Thanks, everyone, for your insights - your suggestions helped a lot.

I finally found the main problem last night - a loose solder joint on a brush holder. If I was successful in attaching a picture, the screwdriver is pointing at it. A contributing issue appeared to be a lack of lube on the gears (my bad).

I also enjoy working on windup clocks, and one of the root no-nos is adding any lubrication to gear teeth. So after cleaning the crud off, all I did was lube the bearing holes. But after watching a few more YouTube videos the gear teeth got a little dab of Lionel Lube. It made a remarkable improvement.

Between the re-solder & new lube, the locomotive now has plenty of speed & power in both directions.

The train is destined to pull its cars around a 14' X 15' ceiling track which I just completed this past Monday. While the support is complete, the track has not been screwed down yet. But since the power taps are already in place, the layout was _almost_ able to run the engine & tender. 

"Almost" will disappear as soon as I clean the 58-foot mix of old & new track. I guess it would be better to find a different thread to ask about the use of a Mr. Clean Cleaning Pad or to query how many people clean with ATF (I saw it on YouTube so it must be true...)

Tom


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

Good Job! Looks good too.:thumbsup:


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## 3windowc (Dec 31, 2012)

Glad you tracked it down. The same scotchbrigt pads are good to clear off the top of the rails. I have sand paperer the pins to get the rust off but do not sandpaper the rails, it will take the plating off


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Nice job getting it up and running. Yes a scothbrite pad and a rag with alcohol to clean the track. Also, lots here use motor oil for lubrication as it dosent gum up like other stuff. Might work on the clocks too, I now use it on lots of stuff instead of 3 in 1 oil, etc. It does work.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Ceiling track looks great, nice job. :thumbsup:


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Tom,
Don't use Lionel Lube. It dries out and gets hard. My strong recommendation is to use only motor oil. 5W-20 is what I use. It never dries out. Don't use 3 in 1 oil, Lionel Lube, white lithium grease, light machine oil, most greases, sewing machine oil, etc.


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## TomW2034 (Jun 2, 2015)

*But how long does that take?*



servoguy said:


> Don't use Lionel Lube. It dries out and gets hard..


I have no doubt that it does.

But how long does that take? I would think lubrication would harden/thicken for a variety of reasons given enough time.

My 2034 was built in 1952, and last worked flawlessly in the early Seventies. The lack of wear on it inclines me to think no one ever serviced it until I did earlier this week i.e. the 63-year old Lionel Lube had hardened enough to be an issue.

On a side note, one clock I worked on specifically called out whale oil for lubrication. That's kinda hard to get nowadays; I went with regular clock oil (most of it is synthetic).

Tom


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

You can clean the track by running the train. The loco will polish the very top of the rails resulting in a very narrow stripe of polished rail. You can only see it if you get the light just right. I gave up using elbow grease to polish track years ago. I just run the train. If the track is dirty enough that the E unit drops out, set the E unit for forward only. This cleans rust off of the track. If you have oil or grease on the track, you will need to clean it with isopropyl alcohol. I attach some paper towels to a heavy freight car with rubber bands and soak the paper towels with alcohol. The loco is used to pull the freight car around the layout until the towels have cleaned off all the oil or grease.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Motor oil never dries out. Its evaporation rate is essentially zero. The vapor pressure of motor oil at room temperature is about 10^-5 torr. Does the motor oil in your cars engine ever evaporate? Lionel Lube will probably be hard in a year or two.


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## TomW2034 (Jun 2, 2015)

*Spoke too soon*

Well, I spoke too soon. My locomotive has a definite mechanical problem when trying to go forward. It is not electrical because the armature is definitely trying to turn, and my ammeter indicates it is trying hard.

Reverse is just fine.

It appears binding is occurring in the power transmission. My suspicion is Gear 1001M-34, which transfers power from the cluster gear to the gear wheel & axle has unusual wear. Special tools appear to be needed for service. Plans are to send it off.

Would anyone care to recommend a repair shop?

Also, I would like purchase a used 2-4-2 in good running condition to finish getting the track in order. eBay's offerings appear to be mostly estate sales with no guarantees on operating condition.

Does anyone have a used O-27 locomotive for sale? Or, would anyone care to recommend a good online vendor?

Thanks,
Tom


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The 2034 is a good starter engine, just get another one for under 25 bucks, if the one you have is a problem child. Spending money on new parts is going to cost and you haven't found the problem.. I suspect the brush plate hole is worn. that is why reverse works and forward doesn't. If the e unit is ok. The engine will work with worn bushings. At this point you need another set of eyes.


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## TomW2034 (Jun 2, 2015)

T-Man said:


> .. At this point you need another set of eyes.


I totally agree. I wish I knew someone around here.

Tom


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## Trent Bishop (Jun 8, 2015)

Hi Tom Trent From Canada.I am new to the forum.Just a question did you try to run the engine without the E unit?


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## TomW2034 (Jun 2, 2015)

Hi Trent - Yes, I have ruled out the E-unit as the problem.


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## Trent Bishop (Jun 8, 2015)

Can you push without power the engine forward with the wheels turning and running gear running smoothly?


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## TomW2034 (Jun 2, 2015)

Yes. Everything works fine with no power applied.

Tom


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## Trent Bishop (Jun 8, 2015)

This is just weird.I have a 229e with almost the same problem.it ran fine in reverse but it ran slow forward.I eventually replaced the e unit and it runs fine now.I usually bypass the e unit when it gives me a problem and let the engine run forward only until I can service the unit.E units are somewhat expensive in Canada so I part them out.

Trent


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## TomW2034 (Jun 2, 2015)

*And then a miracle occurred*

I thought I had finally found the problem when I noticed one of the drive wheel bushings had popped out its hole. But after JBWelding it back in, the engine's attitude about going forward was only slightly improved.

Then I noticed the motor perk up when the chassis plates were squeezed together harder. So a C-clamp stood in for my hand so that the train could be run around the track. The train's performance was better than it ever was when I was a kid. I had to throttle back the wattage so much that the 35 watt transformer was almost off. The train looped its 58 feet of track for 45 minutes, and the engine barely got warm. Apparently, something has always been wrong with the engine because by now it and the transformer would have been really warm.

I wish I could figure out EXACTLY what misalignment the C-Clamp is correcting. But if I can't, the plan is to drill & leave a nut & bolt in the clamp's place.

Tom


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'd say it's likely the armature shaft or one of the axles slightly binding without the clamp tension.


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

Of course aside from the reduction idler, the armature and the axles are the only things that rotate. The bind must be more than slight however because you indicate it doesn't even move in one direction.

I like your testing methods, the C-clamp is a stroke of genius! The drill and clamp bolt certainly seems the easiest route to a solution.:appl:

Let us know how you finish.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

It depends on the c clamp location. Maybe the drum to the reverse unit is bad and the clamp squeeze is enough to keep it in place.

Maybe not I just saw the picture.


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## Trent Bishop (Jun 8, 2015)

Yup I fully agree.

Trent


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

TomW2034 said:


> Yes. Everything works fine with no power applied.
> 
> Tom











What are the pieces of wood around your roadbed up there?
Just curious.

Just taking a stab in the dark here.
I guess the wheel with the glued bushing is not rubbing on the gear while in the forward mode?
I read where this is a common problem on a certain locomotive if the bushings are worn.

Though I don't think it was for this scout locomotive, I can't find the article now for reference as to the number.


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## TomW2034 (Jun 2, 2015)

*Construction debris*



big ed said:


> What are the pieces of wood around your roadbed up there?
> Just curious..


Big Ed - the pieces of wood were stand-off blocks I used while screwing the track down.

Tom


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I am still looking at the c clamp. My observation is the compression on top actually spreads the frame at the wheels, because the lower frame stud. acts as a lever. Then I see the inner driver wheel ( in one picture) worn by gear rubbing suggesting they may be too tight? I am sure glad you got it working. :thumbsup:


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## TomW2034 (Jun 2, 2015)

*All Aboard!*

...and here's the T&K Railway in operation:






Tom


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Oh, that is cool. Nicely done shelf layout. Well positioned for height and quite well done at the corners.


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## TomW2034 (Jun 2, 2015)

Thanks Lee Willis!

Tom


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Very cool, nice work on the shelf. I'd add a few lights to the train.


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## TomW2034 (Jun 2, 2015)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Very cool, nice work on the shelf. I'd add a few lights to the train.


Thanks for both the kind words and the idea. I am currently rounding up ideas for phase two. A passenger car with lights is on the list.

Tom


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Yep, and toss in some lights in the caboose.


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## 3windowc (Dec 31, 2012)

I looked at my original motor and also found that the motor sides are also loose at the cross pieces. They may not have been swedged well enough at the factory. Maybe I will put it back togeter again and try the clamp to see if it will run better. Great detective work. Since the original posting I have picked up another motor so the 2034 is back together and running well.


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## TomW2034 (Jun 2, 2015)

*Father's Day is coming up*



TomW2034 said:


> ... A passenger car with lights is on the list.


I am still learning about all the various Lionel options. In pursuit of my lighted passenger cars, I found this current offering on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-LIONEL-MA...746?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d33c5a56a

It appears to be period-correct, and most importantly, has light bulbs because the description includes, "Features: light function".

Do you agree the cars are lit? Any comments?

Thanks,
Tom


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Two high a price, you can do better. They are lighted.


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## TomW2034 (Jun 2, 2015)

Thanks! I wondered if it was a good price since I have no experience base. Is there a better place to be looking, or do I just need to be patient with what pops up on eBay?

Tom


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'd be somewhat specific as to exactly what you're looking for, then set up a search on eBay and wait to see what pops up. It takes me months at times, but I often get an item I'm looking for at a decent price.


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## TomW2034 (Jun 2, 2015)

Thanks to a wonderful Father's Day gift from Kim & The Boyz, the T&K Railway now offers lighted Pullman cars for passenger use and a U.S. Mail sorting service.

Tom


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

That's another way to get them, that's a very nice train up there.


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## TomW2034 (Jun 2, 2015)

*In Conclusion*

I'd like to thank 3windowc for not complaining about me hijacking his thread with my repair. I got great benefit from all the responses to his original question as well as the follow-ups to what I asked. 

My stripped-down locomotive ran with wild abandon with the C-clamp. But after it was re-assembled with the all the trappings it did not do well in the curves. I never mentioned it because I thought the issue would work itself out with use.

YouTube is full of Lionel engines pulling a long line of cars. Initially, I thought it was because everyone used a big ole 2-8-4 Berkshire. Then I saw someone hauling a lot of cars with the equivalent of my 2034.

Today was a high-water mark for both my Train's performance, and my experience base - After staring & thinking at my train while it was doing just okay with a light haul, I finally was able to adjust my 2034 to gladly pull "a ton of cars" at one time with no issue. 

The straight-aways were never a problem. But once the engine hit the 63 year-old O-27 gauge curves the entire train inevitably slowed. At first I thought it was dirty track. But after way too much cleaning my thinking changed to an electrical issue even though there is a power tap near every curve.

So the soldering gun hit center stage today to put an end to the issue. But after some skillful soldering, nothing changed. Argh!

So I thought, "What would GunRunnerJohn do?"

Well, he'd probably just point, and say, "there's the problem!"

But what if the problem was not immediately obvious to him (I know I'm stretching credulity, but...)?

He would probably run the train through a given curve by hand slowly, and watch for interference. So that's what I did.

The front truck's mounting arm was bent in a way that had never struck me as wrong. The wheels locked up in the curves due to the locomotive's weight bearing on the arm. A simple adjustment with pliers now has the T&K running passengers AND freight.

I now declare my Lionel 2034 ready for whatever comes its way. Thanks, everyone, for your help in getting it to this point.

Tom


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Glad to here it! Sometimes the simple things get overlooked along the way, then you get a eureaka moment.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Cool, I'm glad you sorted it out. Funny thing, mechanical issues are frequently the cause of running issues. Those are the types of problems that can drive you to drink. 

I have a pair of K-Line E8's that the leading truck climbs off the rail in normal running, it's been driving me to distraction trying to figure out what is going on, so I feel your pain.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

John, Where does the E-8 climb off the track? Curve, straight, switch? I have had cars climb the frog in an 022 switch when the gauge was too wide.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

It does it on curves, the lead truck climbs off in front. This is the one that has the staggered traction tires, which I never did like. I haven't had any time to spend on it, but one of these days...


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

I would first check the gauge of the wheels. If there isn't enough clearance between the flanges and the rails, it will tend to climb the rails. Does it do it for both left and right curves?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I did check the gauge of all the wheels, that was one of the first things I looked at. I haven't gotten back to it lately, someday soon...


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