# Lionel engine 675/2025 engine runs slow



## erp52 (Jan 18, 2013)

My 675 engine runs slow, after I cleaned brushes and commutator. And it squeals and grinds when it runs, both forward and backward. I understand I should grease the armature axle, but how do you get the stuff inside? It seems there's no room for it. Ed


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I'm a novice at this but did you remove the communicater, sometimes there is a washer behind it. The first time I cleaned up an old moter it fell out . I had to look forever for it. Now I take things apart over a box.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I wouldn't use grease.

Remove the motor from the shell, keeping close track (with photos/sketches, as needed) of how each of the drive rod linkage components are installed.

Remove the brushplate holder and then the brushes/springs. Be careful they don't fly across the room when you remove the plate. Clean the brushes (little bronze-like cylinders) and the "commutator" face of the armature with GooGone, a soft ScotchBrite pad, q-tips, and the like. Use a wood toothpick to degunk the 3 groove between the copper segments of the commutator.

Clean the drive wheels and the pickup rollers, too. GooGone, ScotchBrite pad.

Oil all moving / mating parts (gears, armature bearings, axle bearings) with 5W-20 or 5W-30 motor oil ... not grease. A drop or two at each spot.

Clean the top of your track, too ... GooGone, ScotchBrite, followed by a wipedown with denatured or isopropyl alcohol.

Hope that helps,

TJ


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

Ditto on what TJ said. The fact there is squealing sounds like a dry bearing, possibly on the commutator as it spins fastest. There are a couple ways to get oil to the proper spots, you'll need to remove the shell to hit them. One is use a "pin/needle" oiler, a small squeeze bottle with a fine tip dispenses oil drop by drop. Another is dip a toothpick in oil, and carefully drip it in the desired spot, less reliable be better than no oil. 5w-20/30 is the preferred choice, lasts a long time. Avoid oils like 3-n-1, sewing machine oil and other "light machine" oils the tend to dry out and get gummy. Don't use grease, same reason as light machine oils, only worse later on. Hit all rotating parts, axles, gears, shafts, etc. This should revive the old gal.

EDIT: In a pinch you can use an eye dropper. One or two drops is plenty.

Carl


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The squealing, in my experience, is almost always the motor bearings, so the previous advice is spot-on.


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## erp52 (Jan 18, 2013)

Thanks, guys, Great information. Interesting about using automobile motor oil. Will start working on it. What about that other stuff some people recommend. The Luca Oil Red n Tacky no. 2? Is that a grease? Which is better, oil or grease? And if oil, regular or synthetic? Ed


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

erp52 said:


> My 675 engine runs slow, after I cleaned brushes and commutator. And it squeals and grinds when it runs, both forward and backward. I understand I should grease the armature axle, but how do you get the stuff inside? It seems there's no room for it. Ed


Just a fine point on oiling. 

The armature needs oil on both the brush plate (which you had off) and the frame. Look on the other side of the motor from the brush plate. You will see where the armature pokes through the frame, under a small gear. A small drop of oil here is needed.


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## erp52 (Jan 18, 2013)

Thanks, Dave, I understand from other posts, that Labelle l06 and motor oil will work fine. Ed


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## erp52 (Jan 18, 2013)

Now what did I do? Cleaned commutator face, new brushes, greased shafts with Labelle 106. Connected power leads. Nothing, just a buzzing sound. Front lite went on. I did apply a little Dielectric Connector Protector on the communtator face, and brush tubes. Hmm. Ed


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Greased shafts? The motor armature bronze bearings should be oiled, not greased. The buzzing sound doubtless is the E-Unit, so at least it's getting power. What happens if you manually index the E-Unit?


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## BWA (Jun 16, 2012)

"I did apply a little Dielectric Connector Protector on the communtator face, and brush tubes. Hmm."

And, Hmm is all you will hear. You have basicaly insulated the brushes from the Com, leaving the armature isolated from the circuit with no electricity able to pass through it.

You need to thoroughly clean all that goop out of there, and, as has been suggested by a couple of previous posters, JUST USE LIGHT OIL, NO GREASE (dielectric or otherwise). Especially on the comutator.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Insulated commutator, that's a new concept in quiet running!


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I used a spray lubricant that promotes conductivity, and is safe to use around plastic. I wipe it off the communicater when im finished cleaning it. I belive dielectric grease as the others have said will not conduct electricity.


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## erp52 (Jan 18, 2013)

Yes, that was the problem. Cleaned off the stuff, and train runs beautifully. Thanks to all you guys out there with your advice. I learned a lot. Ed


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Those guys are good!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

erp52 said:


> Yes, that was the problem. Cleaned off the stuff, and train runs beautifully. Thanks to all you guys out there with your advice. I learned a lot. Ed


Don't be a stranger, the class is still in session.


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