# My Modular Layout Build N Scale



## thompsondl (Dec 9, 2016)

A few months ago I started working on a design for a N-Trak module. I had a post in the n-scale forum working on the design. The plan was to have a standard N-Trak module and two loopback modules to connect to either end. I currently don't belong to any N-Trak clubs or have any plans to display the module. Someday maybe. I just wanted something that could be easily moved if necessary. I also wanted to be able to expand if I wanted. I am going to start with DC only. Might go with DCC later on. I have been working on it off and on over the last few months and thought I would start a thread on my progress.

Here is the final design I decided on. What I have found out as I have been working on this is that this is just a guide. As I transfer it to the actual layout many tweaks are required to get right.

Also included a picture of the three modules I built.


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## thompsondl (Dec 9, 2016)

I decided to start on the right loopback module. Its is the most complex and will also have some interesting scenery. This is my first model railroad layout so it will be a challenge.

Here is the module with the top surface removed prior to me starting to work on it. 










I initially was going to build everything with foam on the top surface but quickly gave up as trying to cut all the inclines out of the foam became a nightmare. Too many curves and trying to get the grades just right was too difficult. Plus I don't have foam cutter so I was doing everything with a knife and the results were poor. I decided to transfer the entire layout to a piece of 1/8" thick plywood and just cut it out. Seems to work really well.

I printed the module layout 100% scale and taped it onto the 1/8" plywood.










I then cut down the center line of the track template to give me a traceable guide for all the track and then transferred the layout to the plywood.










Got it all cut out. Was test fitting some bridges trying to figure out where they would go and which bridges would fit best where. More to come on that as this module has several bridges.










I have a few more pictures to upload to get up to date on my progress...


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## thompsondl (Dec 9, 2016)

After I got the 1/8" plywood all cut for my risers and figured out approximately what the terrain would be. In order to get proper clearance on some of the overpasses and I also plan on have a river/stream water feature I ended up cutting out a section of the table and inlaying the top 1 1/2" lower. That gave me enough to fit the lowered track and also have the water be at the lower level. The square holes that are cut in are where there will be turnout located above. I needed the openings to fit the switch machines in.


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## thompsondl (Dec 9, 2016)

the next step is to get the risers to the correct heights. Been switching between cutting out supports and figuring out how the bridges will fit. 

Here is the current state. I still have a bunch of supports to get cut out but it is starting to take shape.


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## thompsondl (Dec 9, 2016)

Getting this Micro Engineering bridge just right took some effort. I think I printed and cut out my paper template at least 10 times to get it just right. The hard part was to get the segments to match up with the curve and to get the truss supports to not interfere with any of the tracks below. I think I got it pretty close now. It still has a ways to go but I just wanted to make sure it would work before I cut any risers or glued anything down.


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

You're making some fine progress. Good looking woodwork there.
I'm going to enjoy this build thread. 

Magic


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

There is some fine woodcrafting in that benchwork.

But, this old man is very concerned about the reverse
loop situations in your track design. Using DC you are
going to have some fairly complex wiring and panel
switches. If you continue with this design you may want
to consider going DCC which has automatic controllers
and let you run your trains without constant switch
flipping.

Before you tack down your tracks, do a new drawing
using Red for the Right rail, black for the left (or other
two colors). Discover where the red touches the black
and is thus a short circuit. It appears there may be
3 or 4 or more 'reverse loops' in your design.

Don


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Duplicate post...how did that happen?

Don


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## thompsondl (Dec 9, 2016)

I think I got all the reverse loops handled. There are two complete loops in the layout that can be set and left alone and trains can run on those loops continuously without having to flip any switches. If I want to reverse the direction of a train using one of the reverse loops, yes I may have to flip a few switches. Shouldn't be a huge deal to wire. 

Here is my wiring diagram. Yes, there are a large amount of switches. This is mainly due to the fact that it is 3 separate modules and I am keeping each one isolated. That creates a lot of separate blocks that need controlled. I may simplify it once I start wiring it. May also need to tweak the design. A DPDT switch is less than a $1. I may have to spend $50 on switches for all the switches I need but to be honest compared to the cost of all the other model railroad items, its a drop in the bucket.


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## thompsondl (Dec 9, 2016)

I got almost all the supports cut out. Started gluing them down. I only had so many bricks to use as weights so I only did a small section at a time.


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## thompsondl (Dec 9, 2016)

As I was waiting on the glue to dry so I could start on another section I continued to work on my bridges.

I worked on the Micro Engineering high truss bridge. I took my template that I made and taped it down to give me a pattern to work off of.










I then took some 3/8" aluminium channel and cut out notches in it at the end of each section so I could bend it to the radius I needed. The aluminium channel will act as the structure for the bridge.

I can't take credit for the design. I got the idea from some guy on youtube who built a similar bridge. 










my cuts aren't perfect but it won't matter. You won't see them once I get it all in place. All I need it to do is hold its shape. Once I get it all positioned on the layout and the ends cut to the correct lengths I will glue the flanges on the sides. Here is a mock up of what the sides will look like. The flanges will need to be cut to length.










I plan on using a piece of code 55 track for the top. Micro Engineering make a piece of flex track that has wider ties for a bridge. Should work and look good.


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## thompsondl (Dec 9, 2016)

I got all the supports for the back section cut. I had to add an extension up on the back to hold the supports for the top level track. There are tracks directly below so I couldn't just put in a support.










I got all the supports and risers glued except the supports at either ends of my bridge locations. I still have to fit the bridges. I also did not glue in place the top level track along the back section. If I glue that in there it will be real hard to reach the track locations below to put in the roadbed and also lay the track. I'll get that in place first and then glue in the upper section. Most of the lower track under the upper section will be in a tunnel so once I have the track laid I don't have to worry about ballasting it or doing any scenery details on it.


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## thompsondl (Dec 9, 2016)

I had a double-wide through plate girder bridge. I cut the ends at angles and glued it up so it would be at an angle on my layout. 








I'll have to clean up the ends a little bit but should work fine.

Here is where it will go on the layout. I have to cut the riser out where it will go as well as the single track through plate girder on the other riser.


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

That's quite an undertaking there. Best of luck with it!


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## Mr.Buchholz (Dec 30, 2011)

Looks pretty damn good! Awesome workmanship! Can't wait to see the all the track laid on those loops and such! Hope to see more updates in the near future as well!

-J.


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## Shadow001 (Dec 15, 2016)

looks great thompsondl


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## dwagn (Mar 21, 2016)

Looks awesome. I don't have the necessary woodwork skills for something like that. 

I'm curious... what gradient are the slopes? Looks more than 2%

Sent from my SM-G925I using Tapatalk


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## thompsondl (Dec 9, 2016)

dwagn said:


> I'm curious... what gradient are the slopes? Looks more than 2%


I tried to keep it at 2% or less but with the small module work area and trying to get all the clearance heights I have a few gradients that are right at 3%. Nothing above 3%. The curves may increase the effective grade so who know what they really are. From what I have read it should be ok. 4% is the absolute max according to most. May run into some issues with longer trains. we'll see.


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## thompsondl (Dec 9, 2016)

spent many hours over the last couple weeks gluing cork roadbed.

















got all the cork down except for the highest level piece. Once I get the track laid on this part I can permanently affix the upper level supports and ramps and get that part done.

















now I just need to do a bunch of sanding.


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

Some very nice workmanship there.
Interesting track plan as well.

Magic


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## jlc41 (Feb 16, 2016)

Very nice workmanship. Looking forward to see it come together and trains running on it.


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## VegasN (Mar 14, 2016)

Wow......wwaaaayyyyyy more patience that I have.....no question....


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## thompsondl (Dec 9, 2016)

I got a little bit of track laid last night. Ran a short train for the first time just to test it. worked pretty good. still need to solder the connectors and solder leads onto the track. Can't wait to get more track put in so I can run more trains.

Here is a short video of the train running on the section I have installed.


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## Gramps (Feb 28, 2016)

Looking good, thanks for posting.:thumbsup:


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## VegasN (Mar 14, 2016)

Nice! Looks like it runs pretty smooth.


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

PROGRESS. :smilie_daumenpos: :smilie_daumenpos:
Trains running is always a good thing. :thumbsup:

Magic


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