# Backdrop Construction Question



## fotoflojoe (Dec 31, 2011)

I've finally started construction of my layout, benchwork is almost complete. I got hold of a copy of Linn Wescott's benchwork book, and have built a 10x10 L-girder corner unit.

If it matters, the sub-roadbed will be cookie-cutter/ribbon, so most of the plywood will end up being cut away. I only started with full coverage because my track plan is, shall we say, a little less than firm at this point. 
I'm modelling the B&M Fitchburg division, but the track plan is largely based on the Heart of Georgia layout.

As good as Wescott's book is, his treatment of backdrop construction is pretty thin. 
From the research I've done, most everyone seems to mount 1/8" Masonite to the back walls. I'd like to avoid that since the walls are concrete and fairly uneven - drilling would be a pain.

Joe Fugate shows a method using vinyl flooring remnants that looked intriguing. The flooring is bonded to a 1x2 frame which is then attached directly to the benchwork. However, I wonder how much the material will sag over time - in his video, the vinyl already looks like it's starting to sag after getting a base coat of blue. That would drive me nuts.

I'm also toying with the idea of using materials such as fanfold foam, foam-core, or coroplast. I have a fairly large supply of fanfold foam sitting around from my R/C airplane scratch building days.

Does anyone have any opinions/advice/tips/insight into backdrop construction?

Thanks!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Not sure how tight your required curves might be, but why not work with some thin plywood or perhaps even MDF? 1/4" or less in thickness. You can rip vertical grooves in the back (about halfway deep), which will allow for tighter contouring / bends.

You could also consider Formica ... the stuff used for old-style countertops. It'll bend nicely, and you could contact-cement glue a contoured strip(s) to the top/back to help the material hold its shape after bending, without long-term droop.

Food for thought,

TJ


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## fotoflojoe (Dec 31, 2011)

I really like the formica idea, thanks!


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

You can attach the Masonite to a 1 x 2 frame and not even rely on the walls. 
You could also use the concrete walls for the Masonite and attach it to them with liquid nails no drilling required.


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## fotoflojoe (Dec 31, 2011)

How quickly does Liquid Nails set up? I must admit, I've never worked with it before.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Fairly quick, depends on heat and humidity, I would say less than an hour? If your working indoors and you want quick and fairly low oder, there is liquid nails quick grab.
I have used the heavy duty for years and if you need it to set up a little faster and hold something in place, you put spots or lines of liquid nails on one side, like on the wall, push the Masonite to the spots then take it back off wait a few min then put it back and it will stick hard!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Ditto to Sean's Liq Nails comments: a) quick set type, b) double-stick method. I've used both with good success.


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## zekecycle (Jan 4, 2012)

I have used 1/8 inch masonite with, as pointed out above, shallow grooves cut into it with a router at the point where I needed it to conform to a curve. It bends quite nicely. I cut strips of 3/4 inch plywood three inches wide and glued them to the back of the masonite. I then drilled holes to through the plywood stips/masonite to attach the backdrop to the layout. I did this principally because I had very uneven stone and mortar walls in the basement.


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## fotoflojoe (Dec 31, 2011)

Thanks for the advice all.

1/8" Masonite glued (Liquid Nails) and screwed to 1x3 T-uprights, that backdrop isn't going anywhere.

Uprights 1

Uprights 2

At the seams, I also used Durham's water putty for the first layer of "spackle".
I'll use durabond 45 for the final layer - it's what I have on the shelf.

backdrop spackled


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Joe,

Very nice. Some thumbs-up details that I really like:

1. Reinforcement triangular gussets at top of table legs ... strong!
2. Modular section "butt joint" attachment plates.
3. Rounded backdrop corner ... softens the backdrop scene much more nicely than a hard corner.
4. Adjustable feet gizmos.

Question on that last one ... how are you threading the adjustable foot bolt into the main leg column above it? What sort of insert? Ohh ... scratch that ... I just saw the T-ferrule insert in another pic. Nice. Why did you nix the prior rubber feet in lieu of the wood feet?

Well done!

FOR ANYONE CHECKING IN HERE, JOE'S PHOTO NARRATIVE IS A GREAT EXAMPLE OF HOW TO BUILD LAYOUT BENCHWORK ... EXCELLENT STEPWISE CONSTRUCTION PHOTOS!

TJ


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## fotoflojoe (Dec 31, 2011)

thanks for the kind words tjcruiser!

Wish I could say the design was all mine, but I pulled every last detail from 
Linn Wescott's benchwork construction manual. Excellent book. It's out of print, but I found a copy at the local library and have been renewing it for about a month now. 

The rubber feet were actually tips like you'd find on the ends of a pair of crutches. I turned them "upside down" and drilled for the bolt. Unfortunately, their tall, thin sidewalls made them too wobbly and "squishable" once attached. 

In searching for a more rigid alternative, I remembered that I had plenty of cut-offs from making the legs. Cut/drilled little blocks out of those, glued some cork pads to the bottoms, and they were good to go.

I discovered just how strong this type of construction is when I was leaning over the back of one bench and realized all my weight was on the tabletop -both my feet were off the floor and the table didn't budge. I weigh 260 pounds.


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