# Inconsistent Speed



## Ko Improbable (Mar 15, 2017)

One of the first locomotives I bought for my layout seems to have developed some sort of issue. It's a minor one, but I worry it will get worse.

When running it at intermediate speed, it slows down and speeds up at random. Not much, but noticeable. Adding some oil seemed to help, but only for one day. None of my other locomotives have this issue.

It's DCC. I've heard people talk about resetting a locomotive to factory defaults, but I'm not sure if I can do that with my current DCC system.

Any ideas?


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Your controller manual should describe the
reset procedure. If you have a Bachmann EZ controller
the only reset possible is to change the decoder
address to 03, test it, then change to your
desired address.

But the speed change could well be the need
of lube in the gearing, or possibly binding in
some way. Sometimes old lube can gel and
cause friction problems in the gearing. Even
new locos can be victim of this if they've been
on the shelf a while.

Don


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## Vincent (Jan 28, 2018)

I recently solved a similar problem by cleaning the wheels with denatured alcohol.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Clean and lube is always a gokd idea. While your in there, inspect the drive train for broken parts.

Too much lubrication can be as bad as not enough, since it can attract gunk. If you don't use a plastic compatible lube, it can actually damage the drive train.

Also clean your track.

If none of that works, then try a decoder reset, but usually diminished speed isn't caused by the decoder.


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## Ko Improbable (Mar 15, 2017)

*Problem solved, found a great solution to other issues, too*

Apparently the problem with my RS-3 was dirty connection between the contacts of the trucks and the chassis. I used the same stuff I use to clean my tracks to clean that area and the locomotive runs like new again.

With that fix fresh in mind, I turned my attention to my beloved GE 70-tonners, which have been getting inconsistent in other ways. I figured it was just that they're such light little locomotives that they're my indicator for needing to clean my track. However, that hadn't actually solved the problem the last couple of times.
I pulled the shell off of one of the 70-tonners and the place where the truck's contacts touch the chassis is tiny and fairly inaccessible.

I asked my brother, just in case, if he knew of an aerosol propelled, electronics safe, plastic safe degreaser and cleaner. It took him a moment or two to remember the name of it, but he actually knew of one that he'd used something like 25 years ago. I looked it up, and it's still made. It's called Blue Shower. Non-conductive, residue-free, plastic safe ("most plastics" at least).
I used it on both of my 70-tonners and they work like champs, now. One, which had always been a little iffy, is now perfectly fine.
Bear in mind it's not cheap stuff ($20, shipped, for a can was the best deal I could find), and the warning label basically says, "don't get it on any part of you, use it outside, store it outside unless this will raise it's temp above 50C." Since it also says "may cause cancer," it's probably not available in California, either.


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## Ko Improbable (Mar 15, 2017)

I should also point out that it is death to paint. There were little "DCC On Board" logos painted on the bottom of the fuel tank and it absolutely destroyed them.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Oops...made a mistake.

Don


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Possible long-term solution?*



Ko Improbable said:


> Apparently the problem with my RS-3 was dirty connection between the contacts of the trucks and the chassis. I used the same stuff I use to clean my tracks to clean that area and the locomotive runs like new again.
> 
> With that fix fresh in mind, I turned my attention to my beloved GE 70-tonners, which have been getting inconsistent in other ways. I figured it was just that they're such light little locomotives that they're my indicator for needing to clean my track. However, that hadn't actually solved the problem the last couple of times.
> I pulled the shell off of one of the 70-tonners and the place where the truck's contacts touch the chassis is tiny and fairly inaccessible.
> ...


Ko Improbable;

I have always preferred to rely on solder connections and flexible wire wherever possible. If you want, you could solder a tiny wire from each truck, up to the frame, or the input of your DCC decoder. Then if the contacts get dirty again, you will still have reliable power from track to decoder. 

That spray you bought sounds like its too strong for model train use, and quite possibly somewhat toxic to humans. LPS-1 (see photo) does the same job very well, but won't hurt your loco's paint, or you!  

regards;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## Ko Improbable (Mar 15, 2017)

traction fan said:


> Ko Improbable;
> 
> I have always preferred to rely on solder connections and flexible wire wherever possible. If you want, you could solder a tiny wire from each truck, up to the frame, or the input of your DCC decoder. Then if the contacts get dirty again, you will still have reliable power from track to decoder.
> 
> ...


That states it's a lubricant. Ergo, it cannot be zero residue. If the residue it leaves behind is non-conductive, then it would only amplify the issue I was attempting to correct. If the residue it leaves behind is conductive, then it would fry the circuits of the locomotive the first time it received electricity.

Yeah, it's toxic. So is paint.


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## rrjim1 (Mar 12, 2015)

I just use regular Dawn dish soap and water in my ultrasonic cleaner. I then dry the parts and apply Caig electrical enhancer to all the contact areas. I don't feel safe using either spray, both are safe only on (some plastics). If you don't have a cleaner you can soak the parts over night and clean up using a tooth brush.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*LPS-1*



Ko Improbable said:


> That states it's a lubricant. Ergo, it cannot be zero residue. If the residue it leaves behind is non-conductive, then it would only amplify the issue I was attempting to correct. If the residue it leaves behind is conductive, then it would fry the circuits of the locomotive the first time it received electricity.
> 
> Yeah, it's toxic. So is paint.


 Ko Improbable;

Use whatever you want.
LPS-1 works well, I've used it successfully for years. No it does not fry anything. It just cleans the rails and helps the trains run better. I'm not going to debate any technical issues, or opinions. That kind of thing has come up before,and to quote Rhett Butler in "Gone with the Wind", frankly(my dear) I don't give a dam*." (*spelling change intentional for a family forum) I simply know, from real world experience, that it works. Whether anyone else wants to try it is up to them. 

Traction Fan


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