# 4x12 HO plan



## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

I managed a killer deal on a good load of HO unitrack, so it's time to redo our HO layout. Right now it's all brass track and atlas turnouts. It's a simple double oval with a small yard and siding. I'm looking for a new plan. I want to keep the double loop idea to allow continous running, but want to add something to spice it up a bit. My son and I like to run trains together so it needs the continous portion without being too difficult. 

1. 4x12 strictly. No flex there. 
2. Dual track
3. DCC
4. No industry in mind (we have some town buildings)
5. Elevation with viaduct or similar desired
6. No reverse loops or complex wiring
7. I'd like to run longer stock on at least one loop (passenger cars or autoracks).

I'm not real good with the design process and finding plans has been a challenge. Anyone have any in mind that might fit my requirements?

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## kilowatt62 (Aug 18, 2019)

Greetings Vette, 

Have you looked through the layout plans and such here on the forum? Great place to get ideas to start the creative juices going.


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## Gramps (Feb 28, 2016)

Since you are changing to Unitrack you can go on KATO USA's website and at the top of the page you can click on HO track plans which are specific to Unitrack layouts.


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

Gramps said:


> Since you are changing to Unitrack you can go on KATO USA's website and at the top of the page you can click on HO track plans which are specific to Unitrack layouts.


Agreed, I’d start there; mix, match, and cobble together elements that you like from different plans to suit your needs & wishes.


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Gramps said:


> Since you are changing to Unitrack you can go on KATO USA's website and at the top of the page you can click on HO track plans which are specific to Unitrack layouts.


I looked at those, there only a few that for my space. 

I did find this that a member did, its with ez track, so it would have to be modified for unitrack. 










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## Gramps (Feb 28, 2016)

One change from EZ track that you can't do with Unitrack is the 45 degree crossing. Unitrack does not make any crossing other than 90 degrees in HO. You probably know that if you put the X there.


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Yeah, that stinks. I'd need a different way to make the interchange between the main lines and a turnout into that spur. Seems doable though. 

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## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

Yeah, I would get rid of the x'd out piece and eliminate the crossing. Then at the top, traveling counterclockwise, have a turnout that branches down, then parallel, then hook into the inner loop with another turnout there.


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## afboundguy (Jan 10, 2021)

Found this layout plan for a 4x12 Planning my first real track plan, what do you guys think? HO Scale, 4'x12' : modeltrains (reddit.com) 

I'd also suggest trying pintrest. I searched a ton on there while I was doing research and I'm sure they have tons of 4x12 plans I just couldn't search on my computer because for the life of me I don't remember my log in information and I'm too lazy to try and get it off my phone this early in the morning 😴


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

That one isn't bad. This adaptations makes more visual interest for continous running...

I always struggle with reddit. Seems search results are random and useless. I'll get the first few that seen relevant and everything after that is completely unrelated.









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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

I’m not sure it would be appealing to you but with a center backdrop you could run 2 spurs side by side through it, putting for example a mine on one side & power plant on the other. Then you'd never have to pull loaded cars out of the power plant.


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

With a 4' limit on depth, that's going to restrict you to Kato 2-120 curved sections, or 21 5/8" radius.

That works fine with 40' or 50' cars, or even a little longer (such as 54' covered hoppers), but I think you could run into problems with 90-footers such as auto racks or hi-cube boxcars. Same for full-length passenger cars (which are 85').

It MIGHT be possible IF the cars in question have truck-mounted or specially-mounted couplers that permit extra-wide "swing" on the curves.

Perhaps others will jump in with corrections or suggestions on "the long cars".

I haven't seen that many Kato-based plans for larger layouts.
That doesn't mean that they're not possible, but it does mean you might have to adapt plans based on other sectional track for Kato's stock.


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## afboundguy (Jan 10, 2021)

I was able to "run" longer passenger cars on 18" radius turns when I got sick of not having trains and I just did a silly little small oval but it wasn't pretty... OP might be able to get 20"-22" radii on the turns but it would be tight and right near the edge...


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

J.Albert1949 said:


> With a 4' limit on depth, that's going to restrict you to Kato 2-120 curved sections, or 21 5/8" radius.
> 
> That works fine with 40' or 50' cars, or even a little longer (such as 54' covered hoppers), but I think you could run into problems with 90-footers such as auto racks or hi-cube boxcars. Same for full-length passenger cars (which are 85').
> 
> ...


They run fine on the 21" radius curves that are there now, I see no reason they won't run just as well on the slightly larger kato radius. I think this is a misconception that they won't work on 21" turns. There is overhang that may bother since, but they seem to do fine with it otherwise. The inner loop is different story. 

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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Here's the kato score that prompted the redo. I hadn't pulled it all out yet, but looks like 20 switches! And enough power adaptors to run them all. He listed many 50ft of straight track, so I'm going there's that much in there and lots of curve pieces. Total was $285 shipped. 

















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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

Looks like a good purchase.

Those switches in the top photo are the #4 powered.
Be aware that they are "power-routing" (cannot be changed).

Also be aware:
The switch levers have the ac-to-dc converters snapped onto them (marked with the red arrow).
These take ac voltage around 13-15 volts and convert it to dc which is used to power the switches.
You can use either a wall power block that outputs 15vac, or if you can find an old DC power pack, use the "accessory" connection which is about 15vac.








When you throw the switch levers, move them "in a full sweep" from one position to the other. You don't want them to "linger too long" in the middle, because that is supplying continuous voltage which can burn out the switch motors (which are not replaceable on the powered switches, you have to buy an entire new switch).


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Yup, just like the N scale version. There are some that look like #6 in there too. I just haven't inventoried it all yet

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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Ok, working with AnyRail for my plan and in having a hard time getting the loops to connect. I end up being a little too short or a little too long. It's there a function to recommend pieces to make a connection? There has to be a combination that works. 

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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

I can't seem to attach the .any file. If anyone is willing to take a look at it I can email it to you.









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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

You don't need software to "fill the gaps" in the plan in post 19.

Just some straight track...


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Yeah, the problem is finding a straight track combo that fits the length. 

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## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

vette-kid said:


> I can't seem to attach the .any file. If anyone is willing to take a look at it I can email it to you.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm assuming you're using sectional track, and the geometry you have created makes it difficult to find the perfect size piece to finish it off. In a few of the libraries of track, there were adjustable straight pieces that would fit a size range (I don't remember, but the length was something like 1.25" to 4.5"). I think Kato Unitrack has such pieces. I also ran into issues with alignment, where pieces would be just slightly misaligned when trying to join complex curves.

One of the things I really like about using flex track is the ability to design a layout without being constrained to a finite number of geometries.

Edit to add:


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

For sure flex opens up some flexibility on design, but it's more difficult to lay smoothly. The advantage of unitrack is that it work so reliably. It's just dead simple, snap it together and run trains. 

Unfortunately that expansion piece is only made in N scale. For some reason they don't make it in HO.

However, I think I got it for now. I'm short 2 pieces to make this work. I could maybe work it over a bit more to work with what I have, but it did get challenging.









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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

I will add that ALL of the turnouts in this package were either remote or had remote machines added to them if they didn't come that way. 

Can anyone tell me what this plug is for on the side of this? I can't find anything about it.
















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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

New track is up and running...I love kato! To longer top pull up the old track than it did to install the new and start running trains! Still some work to go though. 

Did anyone know a good method to ID remote turnouts? I know most use a diagram of the layout, but I'm looking for some sort of colored or numbered flags that will correspond with the control for it. This is a kid friendly layout and turnouts are confusing for them. Usually he just stops before the turnouts, go's over to inspect and find which one to throw. But that kind of frustrates him (and me). 

This doesn't need to be prototypical (obviously the rest isn't really either), but something that could at least blend in a bit. We are using kato controls for all turnouts. 

I'm also looking for a way to "tie" the controls together for the crossover points where two turnouts need to work in conjunction. Any ideas?

Some before and after shots.





































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## Gramps (Feb 28, 2016)

Do you have access to the track under the tunnel?


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Gramps said:


> Do you have access to the track under the tunnel?


It just lifts off, that was the same with the old track

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## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

Looking great! 

You can control several switches at once with a push button, but I couldn't tell you how to do it. It uses diodes to control the flow of electricity.


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

I was thinking more of a mechanical solution. I'm use the kato controls, but id like a way to connect the lever on 2 together so that they throw together. This way there is no chance of forgetting to do one or the other. That fits for the 8yo and me!

I'm keeping the wiring as simple as possible this time around. Last time I went a little overboard and made it overly complicated. And as a result never got it all working. The kato stuff works. Every time. Right now I just need to plug it all in. All have been tested and function beautifully. 

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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

For reference









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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

OP wrote:
_" I'm use the kato controls, but id like a way to connect the lever on 2 together so that they throw together."_

Yes, I think you can do this.
You should even be able to use Kato parts with which to do so.

I've never actually done this (I have no crossovers), but here's what I'd try:
What you'll need:

1 of the Kato switch levers (24-840)
1 of the "3 way extension cords (24-827)

Run the cord from the 3-way extension into the switch lever.
Connect the turnouts to the 3-way extension.

Something I'm not sure about:
That is... if the existing wiring will throw both turnouts "the right way".
But this can be remedied, easily.

You will need a tool called:
Airsoft Tamiya Adapter Plug Pin Wire Removal Tool (Type: *Small* Tamiya)
ID: 26956 (Tool-EV002-S)

Here's what it looks like:








Airsoft Tamiya Adapter Plug Pin Wire Removal Tool (Type: Small Tamiya)


Shop A Must have tool for Airsoft tech and custom works! Type: Small Tamiya. Male and female. Application: For RC Car, Airplane, Airsoft, and any other Tamiya application. Material: CNC Aluminum. Steel. Manufacture: Evike.com. OEM: Element / Matrix. Color: Red, Gold or Gray Functions /...




www.evike.com




(note that it's sold out at this source)

You'll need to search and find one elsewhere (I'm sure other sources are available, and the tool isn't expensive).

With this you can "punch out" the wire leads from the plastic connectors (one hole is round, the other square), and just "swap them". That will reverse the current and should produce the desired results.

Good luck.


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

I feel like I'm having a lot of "why didn't I think of that?" Moments! I've already got the 3 way plugs I'll give it a try when I get home (probably in the morning, working late). It should work. The kato stuff all self corrects to the correct position and they are all set in a way that both would either be straight, or both turning. 

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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Works as advertised! And they self correct should someone manually toggle one side of the crossover for some reason (kids). 


I just need some kind of sign post to number them

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## Steve Rothstein (Jan 1, 2021)

when I was using the Kato switches, I just connected the two wires together by color for the switches at each end of my sidings. That way the sidings were always set for going in and out or ignoring.

To identify the turnouts, I originally put a number on each of the switches. I then drew a diagram and numbered them to match. I had considered a toothpick with a flag with the number by each turnout but it was a little too out of prototypical for me (and I am not doing scale or anything - mixed eras and lines). For a child who doesn't care about prototypical, I think I would go with the flag by the turnout and numbering the switches to match the numbers on the flag.


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Yeah I like the flag idea. I was hoping to find something ready made, but that seems like a stretch. I'll play around with some styrene today. 

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