# Modding a Mehano Steamer.



## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

About a year ago I picked up a U.P. Mountain from Trainworld. It was one of the last ones at a closeout price that I couldn't resist. It's a fine running engine but a bit generic prototype wise. 

So I decided to make some changes to make it a bit more realistic. The first problem was finding the correct boiler front. I gave up. I'll find one that'll work...someday. 
This is the photo of the loco I choose to emulate...

ENLARGE-5127A LA Ltd SPA semaphores.Tif by desertguy56, on Flickr

The first step as always is to disassemble the locomotive. On the boiler I removed some line that wasn't on the original photo, relocated the bell and glued in some of the detail parts. The number boards were removed from the boiler hatch, carved to fit the boiler and glued in place. The handrails were also re bent in the front to follow the curve of the boiler. There are some holes that need filling, and then we'll repaint.

000_0001 by desertguy56, on Flickr

An air compressor was added to the left side per photo.

000_0002 by desertguy56, on Flickr

The brake lines were carefully removed from the left side and glued back on the right. Later I will extend the lines into the frame area. There's holes to be filled, two steps to make and it looks like there's a tool boxed attached up front.

000_0003 by desertguy56, on Flickr

This is the PITA...I had to cut the bell and it's mounts off the front plate. Some of the rivets were removed in the process so I'll have to figure out how to make them. The running lights were re positioned and Cal scale castings provided the headlight and mount. I'm going to try and drill out the bezel and use the old headlight bulb. The holes for the flying pumps will be filled and new ones drilled for the grab rail stanchions. That's where I finished for the week.

000_0006 by desertguy56, on Flickr


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

I found the boiler front I was looking for and ordered it, along with some new marker lights.

But while I await the shipment, I turned my attention to the tender. It's the wrong length for the job.

So I disassembled it and decided to remove a section of the water tank. It was pretty straightforward. I used various tools to push out the pins holding most of the parts in place, and drilled through any adhesive to remove the air pipes.

After careful measurement I removed an 11/32 inc section up by the coal bunker Notches were scribed with a sharp knife and a couple layers of tape were wrapped around the cutting area. This keeps the saw from walking.

000_0001 by desertguy56, on Flickr

No turning back now!

000_0003 by desertguy56, on Flickr

And we're done! Now to remove the section from the coal bunker.

000_0004 by desertguy56, on Flickr

And this what I ended up with.

000_0005 by desertguy56, on Flickr
Of course I needed to remove the same amount from the frame. Using the same techniques I removed the out board details, then removed the same amount of framing from the frame. I used liquid bonder to re attach the two sections. I applied the glue to both pieces, let it tack up and soften the plastic, the put them together. I do plan on adding some reinforcements to support the glue joint. 

000_0006 by desertguy56, on Flickr

I let this dry for several hours before handling. 

Before I glued the coal bunker to the tank, I took a track cleaning eraser and scrubbed off the lettering. Then I used the same technique to bond the two pieces together.

Took this pic about an hour ago... set the top on the frame and sat the assembly on the trucks. Everything aligned perfectly! The sectioned tender looks like it belongs with the engine.

000_0001_(1) by desertguy56, on Flickr

There's still plenty of detail to do yet. Tomorrow I'll work on re positioning the water hatch and the wood walkways.


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

Nice work there ddog Something I don't think I would try.

Magic


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

Hey there it is...the thread. I wonder where it went.

Magic, I approached this with a more than a bit of trepidation. But I faced the fear and chased the dream. So far it's working.

Today I added some bracing to strengthen up the glue joint. I cut the mount for the brake actuator* out of the piece I removed from the frame. I filed it for a tight fit between the rails and notched it so would go over coal bunker floor, then cemented it in place. I had to grind a small radius for the mounting screw but you won't be able to see any of this once the tender's turned over. I also added to small styrene strips over the glue joint at the frame.

I added other brake system parts but ended up removing them for the moment

000_0001 by desertguy56, on Flickr

I needed to attach the weight. There was this hole that had no purpose for me so I glued a piece of plastic sheet over it and glued the screw lug to that. This worked out well!

000_0002 by desertguy56, on Flickr

I also shortened the under frame piping and glued it back in place.


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

Rainy weekend means time to play inside. I started by drilling holes for the locating pins on the wood slats. I had to shorten the longer section and relocate the pin. The procedure worked pretty well, so I roughed up the edges of the castings and dry wiped on a couple shades of brown to try and make it more realistic.
I decided drilling holes for the filler neck hatch would be a pain, so I carefully measured the hatch, cut off the pins, and glued it in place. I painted it flat black along with the frame and trucks.

000_0001 by desertguy56, on Flickr

I received my boiler front Friday and sadly the diameter is smaller than the area it needs to fill. So I ground away the material around the hatch. My intent was to fit it to the original boiler front but some rework was required.
First, the original access hatch was sanded off. The holes for the flying air pumps were filled, and two extra rows of rivets at the top of the cover were sanded away.

000_0002 by desertguy56, on Flickr

I glued the brass casting in place with superglue and how I got it centered before it set up I do not know! I didn't notice until I checked the reference photos but it sure looks like the hatch I installed is a bit large. Frustrating because the diameter of Cal Scale's casting was so much smaller than the Mehano front.

I'll look at this again another time. Meanwhile I drilled out he hole for the headlight assembly. The light isn't glued in yet. I'm building up the guts to drill it out for a bulb.


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## blackz28 (Jan 6, 2013)

*wow this is great keep us updated,i have the same UNION Pacific 4-8-2 that Really is a C&O copy (facepalm )*


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

blackz28 said:


> *wow this is great keep us updated,i have the same UNION Pacific 4-8-2 that Really is a C&O copy (facepalm )*


Thank you! 

These locomotives have an 'East Coast" look about them don't they! 

There's a bunch of things I would change if my budget permitted, like the tender trucks. They're absolutely horrid looking. The smoke stack is a bit short. Even the number boards are a bit large. But there's a point where cost and time will exceed the value. 

I'm not sure where that is yet, but the boiler front is very discouraging. Of all the times for super glue to stick perfectly...


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

dsertdog56 said:


> Of all the times for super glue to stick perfectly...


Nail polish remover will loosen it.


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

Found a picture of a mountain with a larger boiler hatch on the front. Too bad it's a Rock Island locomotive....apparently pulling a troop train in 1843.


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

flyboy2610 said:


> Nail polish remover will loosen it.


I tried this and it didn't work...it could be the remover is old. I fear something strong enough to remove or break down the glue would damage plastic.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

You're a brave man desertdog56!


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

Wow it's been 2 weeks? Yeah it's time for an update.

I was pretty bummed about the boiler front but I've reached a temporary solution. It's not prototype correct for U.P., but it looks a bit better than most. I used some plastic putty to mold in the cap. It's not perfect but it will be good practice for the next attempt. I'll be adding conduit for the lighting and hopefully can make some new rivets. 

I'm sorry this happened...

I've also drilled out the headlight casting for a bulb. I can't locate the original bulb so I'll have to order a new one. Here's a front end shot for the heck of it. Lots of photobombing here!

000_0001 by desertguy56, on Flickr

I've removed two large pipes and two steps on both sides of the front boiler. Some U.P. mountains show these steps yet be sure and check the photos closely

000_0002 by desertguy56, on Flickr

The plugs up top were sanded flush with the boiler.

000_0003 by desertguy56, on Flickr

The bottom boiler piece...I removed the lugs for locating the old ladders and filed these and two taps in the back of the steps flush.

000_0004 by desertguy56, on Flickr

Using a leftover piece from the tender water pipe I cut four short pieces to make braces for the steps. That's two of them forming the "V".

000_0005 by desertguy56, on Flickr

Then they were glued in place...a tenuous task with my stubby fingers and a crappy set of tweezers.

000_0006 by desertguy56, on Flickr

Using plastic putty. I back filled 3 other holes in the boiler. I push the putty through from the bottom, let it set a few minutes, then press down the excess putty on top. It seems to sand a bit more flush this way, and isn't as messy.

000_0007 by desertguy56, on Flickr

000_0008 by desertguy56, on Flickr

I'm waiting for some paint and glue to dry so I can take more photos. So I'll be updating later today.


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## 3.8TransAM (Jan 13, 2016)

Looking good man.

I always support the doing more with less.

Willing to bet your going to have a fine locomotive when your done.


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

Cycleops said:


> You're a brave man desertdog56!


There's a fine line between bravery and insanity...:laugh:



3.8TransAM said:


> Looking good man.
> 
> I always support the doing more with less.
> 
> Willing to bet your going to have a fine locomotive when your done.


Thanks< I hope so too. I'm getting to a point where if I do too much, the engine will become too fragile. Detail parts tend to get damaged or broken quickly in my ham fisted digits. 

Anyway...I promised a couple more pics and here's what I've got.

All the holes in the pilot area are plugged. Two Braces msut be added to attach the pilot area to the boiler. Also need to build a tool box. I put a coat of paint on the silver part of the boiler to check for body work flaws. There are a couple... we'll deal with them next week.

000_0003_(1) by desertguy56, on Flickr

I also painted the white sidewalls on all the drivers and trucks flat black.

000_0001_(1) by desertguy56, on Flickr


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

that looks like it's coming along nicely .. 
for rivets I sometimes use the rivet decals, but have also used Gel CA applied with a pin, it leaves a nice bump that simulates a rivet nicely for me


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

wvgca said:


> that looks like it's coming along nicely ..
> for rivets I sometimes use the rivet decals, but have also used Gel CA applied with a pin, it leaves a nice bump that simulates a rivet nicely for me


I'd thought that might be the way to reapply rivets....thank you kind sir. Any special technique to doing that?


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

no special technique, just a bit of ca on the pointy end of a pin ...you may want to try some practice rivets on a bit of styrene to determine spot size, and how much your brand of gel ca shrinks when it sets ...


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

wvgca said:


> no special technique, just a bit of ca on the pointy end of a pin ...you may want to try some practice rivets on a bit of styrene to determine spot size, and how much your brand of gel ca shrinks when it sets ...


Sounds good, thanks again! :smilie_daumenpos:


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

While I don't normally mess with trains on my "Friday" because I'm pretty worn from four ten hour days, I was out shooting a couple photos of the rig.

Something about the tender looked wrong. Muy malo! I took a bit blurry shot and it became obvious. Yes...the coal box is wrong. UP (to my knowledge) never used a semi Vanderbuilt style tender. If somebody has a photo of one please post it on the thread.
But that's not the issue at the moment. See if you can tell...

000_0001 by desertguy56, on Flickr

The real problem is the trucks. Yeah they're awful looking. but for what I'd pay for a set of nice ones I could almost buy a better tender. What caught my eye was the gap between the frame and the trucks. Tender looks like its on two short columns.

So I got busy. I won't go into the whole disassmbly process...I'm aware that this would change my coupler mounts. Doesn't matter, they suck too. We'll be fixing that shortly. But if you're tentative about the process scroll down to the finished shot. 

000_0003 by desertguy56, on Flickr

I used my hobby saw (zona saw?) to remove the pedestals off the trucks, NOT the frame. I filed the truck frames lightly to square them up, then I lightly filed the frame mounts to remove some casting flash.

In addition I had to use a 9/64ths drill to ream out the frame holes for the funky little mounting screw. Doing so allowed the trucks to rest tightly up to the frame. 
To get the nuts to tighten to the screws and maintain good electrical contact I used a couple of nuts, one on the bottom of the electrical terminal and one on top between the terminal and the nut.
It really made a difference in the look of the tender and how it mates up to the engine. The top of the tender is lower then the cab roof and it looks like other lines are parallel too.

000_0004 by desertguy56, on Flickr


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

Had some time this morning so I didn't waste it.

Added grab rails to the boiler front...turned out well. Good practice for when I locate a new front piece.

000_0001 by desertguy56, on Flickr

And started building the tool box..

000_0003 by desertguy56, on Flickr


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

dsertdog56 said:


> While I don't normally mess with trains on my "Friday" because I'm pretty worn from four ten hour days, I was out shooting a couple photos of the rig.


Only *4*??!!
My normal work week consists of 5 ten hour days, 5:00 AM till 3:30 PM. Plus an occasional Saturday. By law, they have to give us slaves a half hour for lunch. If they didn't, they wouldn't.
So I know what you mean about being worn out at the end of the week. hwell:


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

I'm not allowed to have OT...which at my rate of pay might bankrupt the company...:laugh:


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

Well it's been a month and I've started in again the the mountain.

Last night I pulled the cab and tender and numbered them. I noted that the one of the boiler "pots" has numbers but there's a whistle in the way. So this morning I removed it.

000_0001 by desertguy56, on Flickr

I also removed this piece of plastic. Mehano put it there for stability but it's in the way.

000_0002 by desertguy56, on Flickr

Be careful removing it. Cut slowly and use a light touch.

000_0003 by desertguy56, on Flickr

I painted the headlight just because...and you can see how much better the front looks without that piece of sprue under the boiler.

000_0005 by desertguy56, on Flickr

With that sprue out of the way, I decided to build the braces that run from the boiler to the pilot decking. After many measurements and checking of various reference photos I cut a piece of wire to the right length.

000_0008 by desertguy56, on Flickr

Then I drilled holes in the boiler...

000_0007 by desertguy56, on Flickr

...and the decking. There's a brace on the front of the cow catcher that I used as a reference. I drilled just behind the coupler linkage and just outside the air lines on the right side. It was close but right on!

000_0006 by desertguy56, on Flickr

I don't know how to describe the bending process. I bent the boiler end to twist in and be held in place. The pilot end was bent about 100 degrees or so out of parallel with the boiler end. Use some excess wire and trim to length. Here's the left side.

000_0009 by desertguy56, on Flickr

This wasn't a perfect fit. I had to ream the boiler holes slightly and re bend the decking end a bit. The fit was almost there so I trimmed off the excess wire.

I ended up having to notch the mounting flange on the boiler front for clearance. I may have to trim the boiler weight. BTW you'll have to make sure the boiler sits tight on the cylinders and that the screw holes for the boiler line up with the frame.
Here's the left side installed.

000_0011 by desertguy56, on Flickr

The right side was bent and trimmed. Here's both pieces in place.

000_0012 by desertguy56, on Flickr

All in a days work. Hope to do a bit more this weekend.


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## Bwells (Mar 30, 2014)

Regarding the horizontal piece of wire above the cow catcher with the downturned ends, what is that for? I have a few steamers with that but figured they came loose from somewhere but I can't find out where.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

Bwells said:


> Regarding the horizontal piece of wire above the cow catcher with the downturned ends, what is that for? I have a few steamers with that but figured they came loose from somewhere but I can't find out where.


I think it's supposed to represent the uncoupler bar, used on prototype to safely uncouple, with having to go in between ??


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

Bwells said:


> Regarding the horizontal piece of wire above the cow catcher with the downturned ends, what is that for? I have a few steamers with that but figured they came loose from somewhere but I can't find out where.





wvgca said:


> I think it's supposed to represent the uncoupler bar, used on prototype to safely uncouple, with having to go in between ??


It represents the uncoupling linkage... most are missing a a couple details. There's normally a link and a small section of chain that run to coupler knuckle. Pulling up on the bar actuates a cam mechanism within the knuckle and opens the knuckle to uncouple.


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

Last couple of items for the weekend.

I fabricated 2 steps out of .015 styrene sheet. The base is about 3/16" wide by 5/16" tall. The step is about 3/64 long by 1/8 wide.. Different locos show different styles but UP doesn't run a step ladder type.

Building the steps was a pita, but installing them...that was true patience. I recommend gel superglue. Everything was painted flat black.

000_0002a by desertguy56, on Flickr

The prototype photo also shows short extensions on the front of the upper running boards. It must be for tripping the unwary. I cut them from scrap sheet. I admit they are hard to see in the photos.

000_0001a by desertguy56, on Flickr

It might be a bit before I get back to this project. I need a correct whistle, pop off valve, throttle valve and and tender decals.

Thanks for reading!


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

Well....during my downtimes this weekend I managed to get some minor work done.

I tried making rivets...that didn't turn out so well. I blame me...and the gel glue that was a bit less gel than needed.

I also put numbers on the number plaque. You can almost read them! 

This was a pain. after ruining several numbers, I found I needed to Dullcoat the paint before applying the decals. Then they slid on and stayed where they were placed. Solveset and another light coat of Dullcoat finished the job

000_0001 by desertguy56, on Flickr

Things look crooked in the photo but the camera was at an angle, and it's not made for close shots.


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

It's been a long while since I've worked on the old steamer. But with summer over and the winter in full swing, we're in the shop.
I finally made a tool box I was happy with. It started with a workman box off ebay, which I shortened, built sides for, and then filed into shape. A drop of superglue holds it to the pilot.

100_0199 by desertguy56, on Flickr

I was able to ream out the mounting holes to the Cal scale grate casting and attach it to the loco frame. A couple drops of super glue hold it horizontal. I also had to trim the plug to the tender slightly and glue the male end (located in the tender) down at a slight angle to clear the grate on curves.

100_0198 by desertguy56, on Flickr

Lastly, I added some weathering to the boiler. This was done by dry brushing some old Floquil grimy black, followed by a wash of Testor's Flat black. I used crap brushes because they get better fine lines. It may not look the best but it's better than I expected. I'll continue to refine things as I see fit.

100_0200 by desertguy56, on Flickr

100_0204 by desertguy56, on Flickr

I'll start working on the cab next.


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

Since it was a cold day and nothing would be happening outside, I decided to start on the cab.
The biggest issue(s) are these indents, perhaps for a shade or some kind of vent. I know the prototype doesn't have them, so I'm going to try and make them disappear.

100_0205 by desertguy56, on Flickr

I started by making 2 pieces of .015 styrene. They're approximately 11/16 long and 1/8 inch wide. The corners will need to be rounded and I beveled the bottom To fil tighter at the bottom. We'll be sanding them to radii.

100_0207 by desertguy56, on Flickr

Here's the trick...using a model knife I scraped off that plastic rail in the center. Make sure you get a clean edge at each end so the filler pieces drop in level with the cab. The trick is not to remove them, so the filler parts can rest on them.

100_0209 by desertguy56, on Flickr

I used liquid plastic cement to glue the filler pieces in place. I'll let them dry a few hours before I start sanding. As far as I can see from photographs the rivets surrounding the fillers are no longer needed. I'll start with 800 wet or dry and finish with 2000. Any gaps can be filled with touch up primer or plastic filler before sanding.

100_0206 by desertguy56, on Flickr


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

After some filling, sanding, painting, sanding, cursing, sanding, well you get the idea. 
The end result was worth the effort.

100_0210 by desertguy56, on Flickr


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## jlc41 (Feb 16, 2016)

Very impressive work. Looks great, I like it.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Looks like an old work horse. Nice job.


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## FOURTEEN (Feb 16, 2016)

Looking good. I like your steps on what you did to it. I am doing a do over on a Mantua 2-8-2 right now also.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

From the bit I can see it looks good.


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

jlc41 said:


> Very impressive work. Looks great, I like it.


Thanks!



mopac said:


> Looks like an old work horse. Nice job.


It is a work horse for the few feet it gets to travel. Thanks!



FOURTEEN said:


> Looking good. I like your steps on what you did to it. I am doing a do over on a Mantua 2-8-2 right now also.


Ah...that's my next project...known as "Rock Island Mike" Thanks and be sure to post up your work.



Cycleops said:


> From the bit I can see it looks good.


Thanks!

After reviewing prototype photos I became aware there were a couple details I needed to fix.
The first was removing what looked like a drip rail near the top just below the hatch. It ran the length of the cab. So with some scraping and sanding it was removed.

The next step was this hand rail. It was made from .023 music wire. The piece is 13/16" long and about 1/4" wide. Took 8 or 9 tries to get two pieces the same.
The top wire has to be trimmed so it is flush with the roof. This is because the mounting hole is through the sheet metal. 
I inserted a stanchion on each piece, then chucked the base in a vise and cut most of the base off with a dremel tool.

100_0212 by desertguy56, on Flickr

The wires were pressed in and a drop of super glue used on each end.


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## FOURTEEN (Feb 16, 2016)

Ah...that's my next project...known as "Rock Island Mike" Thanks and be sure to post up your work.


Weird mine is going to be a rock island one two. I have done some more work on this locomotive after the two pictures where taken.


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

^^^^^^And it looks like you have a missing drive link on that Mikado as well...on the opposite side!
Good luck with your project. You've got a good start!


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

Finally....after months of searching and a couple of missed opportunities I procured a 2nd tender to build a proper Vanderbilt version for the mountain.
Welderman and his sidekick grinderboy showed up at dusk and got busy. I know Brown Coat Billy will be unhappy since I took his largest mainline engine out of service and DID NOT replace it.

Here's a tease picture, I'll post more tomorrow.

100_0246 by desertguy56, on Flickr


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

So, you might ask yourself, how did he get to the previous photo to here...

100_0261 by desertguy56, on Flickr

...in one day?

Well I went out to my workshop and found this.

100_0250 by desertguy56, on Flickr


Yup....the yardmaster...Browncoat Billy! staring right the spot where the Mountain had been coupled to a string of refers. Empty yes, but blocking the main and interchange. I can almost hear him cursing like a drill sergeant under his breath as he reminds me in no uncertain terms am I to NEVER leave string of cars without a nearby locomotive!
Thank goodness the GP-20 was on the top layer of the engine storage box. I hooked it up and went back to work. 

I cut both tender frames. The old rear section will become the new front. I then sectioned out another 1/4 inch of the new front side and welderman tacked the two halves together.
The PO had already tried to modify the frames and lower the trucks. Too bad he didn't have my method to follow. He had nearly ruined the frame.

100_0255 by desertguy56, on Flickr

You can see a large piece of frame missing. The PO did that. I've smoothed it out and will build a new section. 
Then I also cut off the rear step and replaced with the steps and bumper from the front section. Welderman put it all together. We used the new front section to jig it all even.

We had to eliminate the pin for the engine coupler. The mounting screw will replace that.

The tank from the donor tender was cut to length. If you've already done the rear section, the front should be about 2.25 inches. Cut slowly and carefully so you get a square cut. I spent a lot of time "file fitting" because my mojo wasn't very good today!

100_0251 by desertguy56, on Flickr

You'll also have to remove the cat walk and notch the tank for the coal box. The notch is about 3/8 deep and 11/16 down from the top.

I forgot to mention the wiring and the plug. When I cut the front bumper off I was able to cut off the bottom of the plug's mount and the plug, mount and wiring were set aside. I'll show you how I mounted the plug after I've worked it out!


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

I originally took a 1/4 inch out of the coal box...and realized when I test fitted everything I'd shortened it too much...OR DID I?

This is the original coal box with 1/4 inch sectioned from it. Something doesn't look right...

100_0257 by desertguy56, on Flickr

So I grabbed the donor tender's box. Someone put realistic coal in it so even better. Welderman simply cut away the lower portion of the box, seperating the "semi" from the regular Vanderbilt. I left it the original length. This also involved removing the front corners but leaving the vertical pieces. New ladders will be built on these. 

On the back side of the mounting screw lug. I had to remove about a 1/4 inch of the shield behind the lug. Lightly sand the lug so it drops into the indent on the front. You'll also have to remove material on the upper rear of the box as well so it clears the tank.

It was then...after cutting both coal boxes, I discovered the ugly truth. The 2nd box from the donor made the tender look proportionately correct. But after checking some prototype pictures for reference... the overall length of the tender is still too long!!!! I haven't measured the amount yet but it may be as much as 1/4 inch. UGH!

There's a good, bad, and ugly to this. The good? I can take the cut out of the the front frame. The bad? I will be in the section where the frame rails had been removed by the PO. This makes the initial re gluing a weak zone until I rebuild the frame The ugly? I have less of a chunk of frame to replace.

It's time to get dangerous!


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

Well, in the space of an hour or so I redid the tender.

100_0264 by desertguy56, on Flickr

Over breakfast, Welderman and I discussed how much should be removed from the frame and tank. I suggested a 1/4 inch, WM suggested suggested 1/8 inch. we compromised at 3/16, and so after slogging Belgian waffles and coffee we hacked and whacked the tank and frame about 3/16. I'm glad I didn't go a full quarter inch because the trucks (which are probably not to scale) would have been too close.

100_0265 by desertguy56, on Flickr

I used the original coal box and will use the original wooden slats to fab up the walkways. The hand rails will be modified accordingly. Lots of work over the springtime.
Thanks for hanging in there if you're considering doing this yourself.


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

I finished yesterday by priming the front section of the water tank, the applying some spot putty to fill in some imperfections along the glue joint where the 2 sections of tank were joined. I wet sanded the tank tonight and all looks well.

100_0267 by desertguy56, on Flickr

So I started making the hand rails. Referring to a few prototype photos, I used the old rails and stanchions. You can also see I added "wings to the original wood pieces. I used parts from the donor tender cut to size. There are some variances in the length of these "wings" as I call them but since I cut the walkway to the nearest hanger on the tank, I cut the wings to overhang that slightly. 

100_0266 by desertguy56, on Flickr

A one step ladder connects the wing to the walkway. I will need to fab that but hopefully there's some material in a parts bin that can be used.

I also bent up a pair of outside railings These appear to be slightly lower on the wings than the inner rails. 

100_0270 by desertguy56, on Flickr


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

Lots of views, but no comments. Interesting...
Mockup photo to check work. I had to add a couple pieces of scrap to the front step area to level the tank.
Things are looking pretty decent at this point..

100_0272 by desertguy56, on Flickr

So I'm going to work on the frame. The first issue is repairing the frame damage from the PO. Cutting scrap plastic to fit and gluing in place.

100_0273 by desertguy56, on Flickr

The PO also filed the truck mount area completely flat, realized his error and tried to add a washer. I had no choice but to reuse. Hopefully a couple small drops of super glue hold it in place.


I'll be working on the frame a bit more tonight...


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## jlc41 (Feb 16, 2016)

dsertdog56, by adding into the frame are you not going to be where you started in pic #41??? Am not understanding what is happening.


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

jlc41 said:


> dsertdog56, by adding into the frame are you not going to be where you started in pic #41??? Am not understanding what is happening.


I'm sorry for the confusion. 

I believe in the next posting I had an internal dialogue with my alter-ego Welderman. 
We agreed to shorten the frame and tank assembly by 3/16 of an inch. So the frame and tank were re cut, a 3/16 piece was Removed from both the front half frame and tank and then everything was re assembled.

I hope that cleared up your confusion. 

FYI: I don't know what the scale length of the tender was originally but it had to be close to 50 feet. The first shortening brought it to 41 scale feet. It now measures 36.25 scale feet. 

I believe the prototype tender was about 32 or 34 feet. It would be possible to get very close to this if one was to cut the frame and tank just behind the rear coupler and remove another 3/16 inch. I don't believe it's worth the trouble.


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

I worked on the frame a bit more tonight. I was able to finish repairing the frame and also removed a couple of canister looking things that I didn't see on the prototype. 
The original weight was cut down to fit over the front screw lug and attatched. I can always add more weight.
Then I shot a coat of black primer on it and filled in some flaws. 

100_0274 by desertguy56, on Flickr

I also used scotch tape on either side of a slight crevice in the coal box and put some spot putty in that. Removing the tape left a skinny line of filler that will be easy to sand down.

100_0275 by desertguy56, on Flickr


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

dog that is some really fine work, going to look great when done.
I don't think I would ever try a project like this. 
You got more guts than I have. 

Magic


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## time warp (Apr 28, 2016)

I like the open wheeled look of that tender. It adds a lot of personality to the locomotive. Keep up the good work.:thumbsup:


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

Magic said:


> dog that is some really fine work, going to look great when done.
> I don't think I would ever try a project like this.
> You got more guts than I have.
> 
> Magic


Thanks Magic...There were several scary moments but it appears I've prevailed. Damn the torpedoes!



time warp said:


> I like the open wheeled look of that tender. It adds a lot of personality to the locomotive. Keep up the good work.:thumbsup:


Thanks TW. It's the prototype look That I'm going for. Your generous offer on the free tenders sparked an idea that I will be checking into for this project.


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## jlc41 (Feb 16, 2016)

dsertdog56, got it thanks. Nice work btw.


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

jlc41 said:


> dsertdog56, got it thanks. Nice work btw.


Thank you!

well, a new conundrum exists. Time Warp's generous offer reminded me that I had another old tender laying around from one of dads long discarded projects. It's milled from wood, weighs a ton, and needs a big steamer to pull it.

100_0276 by desertguy56, on Flickr

But check out those brass trucks! I wonder how they'd look on my Mehano tender?

100_0277 by desertguy56, on Flickr

Well crap, they look really good! I wonder if I should adapt them over? I will if can do it without either major rework.
Any thoughts?


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

This will likely be the last post for a week or so. I'm getting behind on home projects. I'll continue to dabble away at the tender untill I'm happy with it. There are several details... ie. hand rails to do.

The body I added strips of .015 styrene to the open areas of the coal boxt at the bottom and rear. Now the tender looks like one unit.

100_0280 by desertguy56, on Flickr

BTW the secret to attaching the coal box to the tank was simply slide the box where I wanted it. The round tank slightly deformed the coal box, but I drew lines where the box should be on the tank. I then filed a flat spot on the tank but also sanded the inside of the box until the coal box slid over the tank easily. Don't over file the tank so it is flat past where the cold box sits!

I also had the tool box left over from the donor tender. Several photos show this style box on both sides so I glued it on. I'm also going to add a floor and back, more of the many details to do.

Lastly we come to the frame. I needed to mount the trucks, draw bar pin, and the electrical plug for the tender pickups. These jobs were a bit jacked by poor planning on my part but they are functional! I will mention how to avoid that.

1st, let me tell you to be careful when remove the mount that holds the male plug when you cut away the floor to remove it. It'll make the installation much easier.

2nd, if you use the factory trucks, you'll need to install the draw bar pin where the front mounting hole is. I'd use a piece of music wire and thread the top with a 2-56 die. Use a nut and washer to lock the pin in place. You'll have to trim the drawbar back and drill a new hole in it.

100_0282 by desertguy56, on Flickr


Okay now if you purchase a set of aftermarket 6 wheel trucks, you can install the factory draw bar pin about 1/4 inch from the front. It'll be past the lug for the front mounting hole You'll have file a flat spot in the wide part of the pin so it butts up against the lug. I'll get a picture of this tonight and add it.

The electrical pin....If I'd saved the whole mounting lug I could've recessed it in the body like the factory and things would have been easy. But I didn't. So I had to file down the front tank and glue it in place at a downward angle so the female pin on the loco wold clear the floor I'd installed for the fireman. I still ended up chopping the crap out of the female plug for clearance but you DON'T want to have any exposed terminals touch the brass floor if you installed one!

The trucks were easy. I tapped one of the outer holes on the top for a 4-40 screw and two 1/4 long screws and washers hold them tight, but not too tight!

After I finally got everything the way I wanted it I hooked everything up, and test ran the locomotive. Had to fine tune and oil the wheels but everything runs real good. I need to re level a crooked turnout...one of the challenges of running big steamers. But it is sooooo worth it!

100_0281 by desertguy56, on Flickr


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

Looks very good, one heck of a project but worth the effort.

Magic


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

Magic said:


> Looks very good, one heck of a project but worth the effort.
> 
> Magic


Thank you! If the tender as a whole were more accurately built to begin with, the project would be awesome!

I promised new pictures in a week, and I got several little projects done.
On the rear, I removed the molded in grab rail off the tank and replaced with a wire one. That was an extra from a Walther's F-unit detailing kit. I also added grab irons on the rear bumper per reference pictures.
The ladder/steps connecting the walkways to the wood platform were built from the original steps found on the front of the locomotive. New grab rails for the sides were bent from a wire off the donor tender.

100_0284 by desertguy56, on Flickr

On the frame I added a drain pipe on the fireman's side, and air lines to the engineers. I need to build a steam line and fab up some support brackets for the air and steam pipping.
I still have to build the correct steps up front, but have the hand rails done and mounted.

100_0283 by desertguy56, on Flickr


I understand you can buy rivet decals? I need some to replace those damaged when I sanded the coal box. Otherwise it's ready for road name decals!


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

Hello! I've gotten a bit more work done on this project but the job is far from done. 

Yesterday I finally found some photos of the engineer's side of the locomotive and learned that there is a pre and post overhaul version of the prototype.

While I have been working on the tender, I've also turned my attention back to the engine itself. The engineer's side doesn't have an air tank and the power reverse is much larger.
So I carefully disassembled the loco and set the lower assembly aside. I needed to clean out and lube the gearbox.

100_0285 by desertguy56, on Flickr

I added glass to the cab and painted the interior with a flat medium green. I intend on painting the fire box details and adding an engineer and fireman.

100_0287 by desertguy56, on Flickr

This shows what needs to be removed. 

100_0288 by desertguy56, on Flickr


Using a zona saw and large handled hobby knife I separated the air lines and removed the puny power reverse and air tank.I also scraped the excess castings from the fire box and removed the cone shaped diffusers from the discharge lines.
I could replace a lot of these with castings, but I have both a time a monetary budget. I don't want to overspend either.

I worked off the the molded mounting lugs for the tank and reverse and built two lugs to mount the new reverse. This would have been a brass casting but I had one left over from another project that will work perfectly. ]
That's where the next entry will start.

100_0289 by desertguy56, on Flickr


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

*Getting down to the brass tacks(or steel rivets)!*

As promised, here's the new and cooler looking power reverse installed. Two scraps of thick styrene were glued to the lower boiler, drill for the mounting lugs and the reverse installed.
Looks like a rail gun...hmmm

100_0291 by desertguy56, on Flickr

I returned to the tender, the part of this project that has vexed me since I started.
I knew the brass trucks I mounted were wrong, and that bothered me but I was sure I could not run the factory trucks without interfering with the drawbar pin.

100_0292 by desertguy56, on Flickr

Well I was wrong. All I had to do was cut away the front inner housing on the trucks and file away enough plastic to let the trucks turn. Here is a closer look.

100_0295 by desertguy56, on Flickr

It looks crude but is very functional. I've hooked the tender up to the locomotive and ran it through it's paces. No binding or interference!
You can also see the new front ladder(s) I built. These were made from .020 strips of styrene. The basic frame was glued on wax paper, then the outer frame was doubled. The curve at the top was laminated from scrap trips of styrene, bent and glued in place then trimmed to length.
Not all my attempts were successful! I have yet to get the top correct on this one!

100_0297 by desertguy56, on Flickr

Like I said, we're down to the last few rivets and welds. Hopefully I'll have that to post next week. Thanks for stopping by!

100_0299a by desertguy56, on Flickr

100_0303a by desertguy56, on Flickr


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## time warp (Apr 28, 2016)

I haven't commented, but I have been watching. Neat project.:thumbsup:


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

time warp said:


> I haven't commented, but I have been watching. Neat project.:thumbsup:


Thanks TW...which may also stand for "The Wizard"? The wizard of AHM. Very cool!http://www.modeltrainforum.com/images/smilies/smilie_daumenpos.gif

I'm curious if anyone else has attempted to redo their Mountain. I know of at least one person that may have thought about it.

If you are, please post up some photos.


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

*The last post/the end.*

This'll be my last post on this project. There are still some minor details to be worked out but there's no reason to post then here.

The tender got a lens for its light. An extra PA-1 cab porthole window worked perfectly.
I used some micro mark rivet decals to add some detail back to the sides. Once I got the hang of them they came out decent.
I also weathered the tender. It probably looks like crap. Used tenders tend to look like crap. It's a hard working engine.

100_0308 by desertguy56, on Flickr

Here's a pic of the entire locomotive.

100_0313a by desertguy56, on Flickr

Lastly here's a short video. I don't pretend to be a master locomotive engineer or videographer, much less do both. But here 'tis.

Mountain by desertguy56, on Flickr

I hope you've enjoyed the build. Frankly, I'm tired. I feel like I spent a lot of effort but fell a bit short. But...I learned a lot of things. 
Thanks for watching and being kind with your comments.


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## time warp (Apr 28, 2016)

Interesting project, plus you saw it through. That makes it A-OK!


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## jlc41 (Feb 16, 2016)

dsertdog56, kudos that was a heck of a build. I like your attention to detail.


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## dsertdog56 (Oct 26, 2014)

Thanks TW and jlc41,
It was an interesting project. There's an old saying that you can't turn a sows ear into a silk purse. While this wasn't a sows ear, it certainly wasn't a yard of fine silk.

The frustration was that even though I was removing incorrect parts and installing or making correct parts, that there were more corrections that needed to be done. What needs to be done requires major surgery to correct. And that's just the boiler shell! 

In summary, what I ended up with is something pretty close, rather than exact. So it's a "pretty good" job as my dad used to say. It's his nice way of saying that it basically sucks. This might be over critical but I'm my own worst rivet counter, so other rc's would chop it to bits. The cool part, I'd never claim it was an exact replica. So there!


To build an exacting replica of a 7000 series would require a 2nd shell and cab to rebuild and maybe 2 more tenders to chop into one. That'd be a waste of time and effort much less the cost. You'd also have to spend another twenty bucks or more on brass detail castings. Perhaps one tender could be used and and a proper water tank built with a piece of PVC pipe? Hmmmmmmmmm...maybe in in another year or so.

I'd at least like to find a new boiler front to put a correct size hatch on and a set of better marker lights.


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