# steel wheel sets



## oldhobbie reborn (Jan 15, 2014)

Ok ,,,,I have cars with both plastic and steel,,,,don't seem to notice much difference,is it worth the expence or is there a real difference,,,,,trains run about 3 to 4 hours nightly,,,more on weekends and when grandkidds are around


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## ggnlars (Aug 6, 2013)

There are lots of opinions here. For purely DC operation, the main reason is just weight. Four metal wheels give you 1/2 to 3/4 oz more weight than four plastic wheel sets. The weight is low on the car which is good. 

An issue is the plastic wheels will deposit "dirt" on the rails. This will impact the electrical pick up to the motors. This is particularly important if your running on DCC. People with DCC will ban plastic wheels for that reason.
Larry


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## golfermd (Apr 19, 2013)

Yes, there is a huge difference. But it's performance. Over time the plastic wheels will leave a build up of crud on your rails. When I get new (not necessarily brands new) rolling stock I replace the plastic wheel sets with metal ones. Learned something the hard way though, don't throw out the plastic wheels. They make a great load on a flat car, or in a gondola, as a load of wheels.


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## oldhobbie reborn (Jan 15, 2014)

Ok what's the best size for freight cars and better make that wont break the bank


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

I've had good luck with the Intermountain & Walthers Proto wheelsets.

Your cars will most likely have 33" or 36" wheels. 

HO Scale is 1:87 
33" wheel = 0.379" diameter (3/8" is 0.375")
36" wheel = 0.413" diameter (13/32=0.406" & 7/16"=0.4375")

Get the same size as what you have on the cars.

Lots to choose from....for around $1/wheelset (a pack of 12 wheelsets does 3 cars.)

http://www.walthers.com/exec/search...rds=restrict&instock=Q&split=30&Submit=Search


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## oldhobbie reborn (Jan 15, 2014)

I've seen them on eBay in bulk Scott,,,guess I need to order a box of each


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Just look through your stock and see if they are all the same size. You may not need a box of each. I want to say most of mine are 36" wheels, but I hate buying something I don't need. 

If they are dead on at 3/8" diameter, then they're 33's, if larger, then 36's. (If smaller, then they are 28" wheels, but those are pretty rare)

Oh yeah - don't measure total diameter (at the tall flange) you want the diameter of the rolling surface of the wheel.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Most passenger wheels are 36
Most modern freight wheels are 33
28" are rare, one instance is new intermodal car usually us those on the ganged trucks and 36" on the end trucks.

I use intermountain wheels and buy them in 100 packs.


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## oldhobbie reborn (Jan 15, 2014)

Alrighty then a hundred pack from intermountian it is then


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## golfermd (Apr 19, 2013)

oldhobbie reborn said:


> Alrighty then a hundred pack from intermountian it is then


Those are the standard at our club. :thumbsup:


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## singletrack100 (Dec 18, 2013)

NIMT is pretty spot on! 33" for freight, 36" for passenger. Newer 100 ton freights will also use 36". I don't know the exact break down but read in another forum recently about 77 or 78 ton being the point where 36" take over...

YES, it IS worth the expense! So much less track and loco wheel cleaning, less out-of-gauge problems, added weight right at the rails, less drag (plastic has a higher drag or friction than metal). Possible cons are more noise, significantly more... this bothers some, not me. They do make a neat clickety-clack with any small gaps in rails.

Highly recommended with this project is getting a "truck tuner" tool. It's use is pretty self-explanatory when in your hand. It will shape the bearing surface and remove any small amounts of flash that interferes with rolling; the result is rolling stock that can roll and roll and roll.... you get the idea. Designate a place for the tuner and return it to that place EVERY time you are through using it or you will lose it!

Happy RR'ing!

Duane


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## doorman29 (Dec 15, 2013)

I just started converting all my rolling stock, primarily because of the grime issue others have stated. They definitely roll nicer and I am also a fan of the added noise.


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## timlange3 (Jan 16, 2013)

I believe the metal wheelsets, usually nickel/silver like the track, have slightly less rolling resistance. Another feature they have is with the addition of a resistor bridging the insulator on a wheelset you can have the car activate block detection.


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

I converted all my rolling stock to metal wheels over a year ago and haven't been sorry for a split second.  Bought a bulk 100 package of Intermountain wheels on whoopee Bay.
Now down to cleaning track once a year. Everything rolls smooth as a baby's fanny. And I LOVE the sound of the metal on the tracks.
I use the old plastic wheel sets for "junk" decoration around the sidings, etc., just like in the real world. We saw hundreds of them beside the tracks on a recent Amtrak trip to Salt Lake City.
Metal wheels are the only way to roll. :appl:
Bob


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## oldhobbie reborn (Jan 15, 2014)

Hey Duane,,just went thru walthers and can't find a truck tool,,,,any suggesstions


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Micromark has them:

http://www.micromark.com/HO-TRUCK-TUNER,8241.html

Internet trains:

http://www.internettrains.com/merch...een=PROD&Product_Code=RBX-T100&Category_Code=


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## singletrack100 (Dec 18, 2013)

oldhobbie reborn said:


> Hey Duane,,just went thru walthers and can't find a truck tool,,,,any suggesstions


I bought mine at a LHS in Phoenix. Reboxx and MicroMark are two makers of them. I haven't looked online for one because I have one but they should be readily available...Hmmm, I'm trying to think of websites I've heard of... 

I just looked and modeltrainstuff.com shows one when shopping by manufacture- Reboxx, $9.59. Using their search feature and entering "truck tuner" showed 0 results, so try using the "shop by manufacture" on whatever sites you go to... and I did not see one on Walthers. Micromark.com has them listed just by entering "truck", their price $14.35... Caboosehobbies.com has the same one for the same price... no pic though.

There's three for you that at least will show you what they look like. They're only about an inch or so long. If you have a local hobby shop (LHS) or train store, try them too.

Hope that helps and Happy RR'ing!

Duane


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## oldhobbie reborn (Jan 15, 2014)

Thanx,Ordered


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## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

This thread has been very enlightening. I'm sure it's been covered before but every once in a while old topics need to be rehashed for newbies like me. I liked the metal wheels to begin with but this adds more incentive to convert anything that needs them.


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

For the modern stuff, I like the Kato Trucks that have the center bearing that spins. Spendy, but neat.


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## singletrack100 (Dec 18, 2013)

SRV1 said:


> This thread has been very enlightening. I'm sure it's been covered before but every once in a while old topics need to be rehashed for newbies like me. I liked the metal wheels to begin with but this adds more incentive to convert anything that needs them.


That's what we're all here for- to learn and to share! One thing not covered which is another advantage to metal wheels is the plastic wheels build up crud on them. Build-up on the rails has been covered, but the wheels themselves attract junk, maybe from static electricity? 

I recently discovered why my Athearn heavyweights were having derailment problems all over the place. None of my locos or freight rolling stock (most with IM metal wheels) had problems. The Athearn passenger wheels have a metal wheel on one side of the axle and plastic on the other side, providing for electrical pickup for lights. The plastic sides were so built up with junk it effectively made the flange height almost non-existent, allowing for climbing the rails easily. Cleaning the junk of the plastic sides made for no more derailments (and much happier passengers, loco crews and main operator)!

This is a problem you most likely will not encounter with metal wheels!

Happy RR'ing!

Duane


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## DavefromMD (Jul 25, 2013)

Hey duane,

I recently picked up some Athearn lighted passenger cars. They had the one platic, one metal wheel setup. Kept derailing over switches. I swapped out the wheelsets with Intermountain metal wheels and axles where one whel is insulated. Work great! no more derailing and better more steady light in the cars.


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## singletrack100 (Dec 18, 2013)

DavefromMD said:


> Hey duane,
> 
> I recently picked up some Athearn lighted passenger cars. They had the one platic, one metal wheel setup. Kept derailing over switches. I swapped out the wheelsets with Intermountain metal wheels and axles where one whel is insulated. Work great! no more derailing and better more steady light in the cars.


That's in the "someday" budget for me too. I did most of my freight stock about a year ago and love them. I'm dying to do my passenger fleet too, just gotta get the extra dough. The way this dry, mild winter out here in the Southwest is going (yah, I know, everyone else is freezing their tails off), on top of long term drought, this fire season may very well get me those wheels! At least with cleaning the crud off the plastic wheels, my Athearn HW's don't derail anymore (for the time being, till they crud up again).

Happy RR'ing!

Duane


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