# Concrete-embedded tracks - model suggestions wanted



## TimW (Oct 20, 2018)

Now that the holidays are over and I have a place to start setting up my layout, I have a modeling question.

One of the features of my layout will be a fairly large intermodal facility with several parallel concrete-embedded (drive-able) load/unload sidings. As of right now, I plan to use Atlas Code 55 flex-track for all my runs and turnouts. I already have a fairly large quantity of this track on hand, but if there's a more-suitable product for this project that would ultimately connect well to the Code 55 flex track, then please let me know.

I'm looking for suggestions on how to realistically model the trackage for this facility, and I'm particularly interested in learning what pitfalls to avoid.

Thanks!


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## 89Suburban (Jan 4, 2017)

I am interested in this as well.


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## TimW (Oct 20, 2018)

I was surfing YouTube today with all the crummy weather and found a fellow who goes by the YouTube name of "KRP models". He modeled a concrete pad at an engine service facility, which is essentially the same idea as what I'm looking for. He used Woodland Scenics "Smooth it" plaster screed directly into and over the track (which was glued to the underlayment with no cork or foam roadbed). After about 15 minutes of cure time and using a new X-Acto blade, he carved out the "Smooth it" from the insides of the rails. It looked about perfect after he weathered the plaster and did some touch ups and simulated cracks. This looks like something worth trying. He warned about letting the plaster cure too long. I'll just make sure I keep my turnouts outside of the concrete pad. I may also look into using something like Masonite or similar hardboard under the track to bring the underlayment thickness to approximately the same as cork to handle the transition from ballasted roadbed to concrete.


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## Nikola (Jun 11, 2012)

Check my 'Tiny HO Layout' thread as I show a way to model tracks such that the rails are flush to the road surface.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Use tile grout or drywall mud to make the concrete surface. Smooth It works, but as with all dedicated hobby products, it's often just something you can get at the hardware store, repackaged and marked up.

Use strips of styrene inside the rails to preserve the flangeways. Screed the surface over the rails with a trowel or putty knife. Pull out the styrene strips and clean up the groves.


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## Nikola (Jun 11, 2012)

CTValleyRR said:


> Use tile grout or drywall mud to make the concrete surface. Smooth It works, but as with all dedicated hobby products, it's often just something you can get at the hardware store, repackaged and marked up.
> 
> Use strips of styrene inside the rails to preserve the flangeways. Screed the surface over the rails with a trowel or putty knife. Pull out the styrene strips and clean up the groves.


Drywall mud is soft enough that you can grout right up against the rails. Run an old truck by hand over the rails when the mud is 3/4 cured. When completely cured, can easily remove more material as needed with almost any type tool.

Or, use coffee stirrers as the spacers.


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## TimW (Oct 20, 2018)

Some great suggestions here. Thanks!


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## CV-62 (Dec 9, 2018)

CTValleyRR said:


> Use tile grout or drywall mud to make the concrete surface. Smooth It works, but as with all dedicated hobby products, it's often just something you can get at the hardware store, repackaged and marked up.
> 
> Use strips of styrene inside the rails to preserve the flangeways. Screed the surface over the rails with a trowel or putty knife. Pull out the styrene strips and clean up the groves.





Nikola said:


> Drywall mud is soft enough that you can grout right up against the rails. Run an old truck by hand over the rails when the mud is 3/4 cured. When completely cured, can easily remove more material as needed with almost any type tool.
> 
> Or, use coffee stirrers as the spacers.


Lot's of great ideas right here. Thanx!! 

I could not agree more with the assessment that all this hobby stuff is just repackaged hardware store materials marked up. I currently have some different colors of sandblast media I am checking up and mixing for ballast. Quite the money saver doing things that way.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Nikola said:


> Drywall mud is soft enough that you can grout right up against the rails. Run an old truck by hand over the rails when the mud is 3/4 cured. When completely cured, can easily remove more material as needed with almost any type tool.
> 
> Or, use coffee stirrers as the spacers.


I forgot about that trick with the old truck. Thanks for pointing that out.

For coffee stirrers, wouldn't they be too big? Width doesn't matter, as long as it's thicker than the flange, but it has to be at or below the railheads to screed the surface to the right height (more or less level with the railhead).


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