# 1948/49 (I think) die cast American Flyer 312



## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

Is there a good trick to secure the headlamp piece to the boiler frame? I have tried a small piece of friction tape to help hold it on but I am not satisfied. I have wondered about building up the inside of the boiler frame with JB Weld, but caution prohibits me at this point. Suggestions? And, of course, thanks all for their valued advice! :appl:


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Are we talking about the 2 long brass fingers that hold the boiler front on??.. If so, I just bend them out a little bit.. If the boiler front has the 2 small nibs on the front itself, I build up those nibs with solder.


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## dooper (Nov 9, 2015)

And if it has the nibs, if you are careful they will bend out a small bit to make it fit better. I have done it successfully and unsuccessfully


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## 303flyer (Apr 4, 2016)

I have the same issue on a couple of my engines. There are no brass clips. Headlight lens and front of boiler are held on by friction. Nothing to adjust.


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## dooper (Nov 9, 2015)

I wonder how rubber cement would work. it can be removed.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Electrical tape will work too.

Instead of rubber cement I use silicone gasket cement. I peels off but will hold.


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## shaker281 (Jun 22, 2019)

In my search to find a new boiler front for my 312 (I destroyed the lamp socket trying to get the bulb out), I discovered there are several different versions: Early/pre-war (2 clips only), Mid (pressure rivet fit) and late (clips and socket). It sounds like BC's version is like mine - pressure rivet fit.


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

shaker281 said:


> In my search to find a new boiler front for my 312 (I destroyed the lamp socket trying to get the bulb out), I discovered there are several different versions: Early/pre-war (2 clips only), Mid (pressure rivet fit) and late (clips and socket). It sounds like BC's version is like mine - pressure rivet fit.


Mine is a pressure rivet type. Thanks for the info!


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