# Need some help with programming a mrc explorer with digitrax dh126d



## GREENEY (Nov 8, 2015)

I am totally new to dcc and hust reviving my interest so be patient with me please. So today i just cleaned up my old track on the wall, touched uo some connections and hooked up the mrc prodigy explorer controller. I have two locos which i installed the d126d encoders in. I think they are both Athearns. Nice double drive units. I was careful to isolate my motors and so far i dont think ive fried anything. 
So the dilemna is i have no movement. I followed the three steps with engine A/1. In program mode the loco light woukd flash and then go about half bright like standby. I was hitting P, then loco, then 1. Then letting the controller go out of program mode and the direction lights go back to one lit. So i tried it a few times. The 0 functiin didnt turn the loco light on either. 
I then removed A from the track. Placed loco B(used 2 spot) on the track. Did the same procedure. This time the loco light didnt flash while i programmed. But i could use my zero function to turn on the front light. And selecting the reverse direction would turn off the front light also. But still no directional control. It would seem to me that if i can command the light then im addressing the loco correctly, but not sure if i missed something(probably did). I hit loco then the # i used to program. I feel like i did what it said to tell the mrc box that this specific loco is is at address 1 or 2. Thanks for the help.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

You're missing something here. It may be that you haven't gone through the initial programming for the address properly as you say the address is at 1or2. The decoder has a default of 3, it wont respond unless you confirm that on your controller. I don't have the MRC but a few here have so I'll leave it to them.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I don't have MRC either, but Cycleops has hit the nail on the head,
it seems to me.

Every new decoder and every new loco is set to address 3 by default.
You must first address the loco as 3, once it responds you should be
able to run it. Then having proved your wiring, change the address
to some other. Do the same with the other locos. Don't leave any
loco permanent on address 3.

Don


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## GREENEY (Nov 8, 2015)

Im going to try to print the digitrax directions out. I have the sheet that came with the encoder but it doesnt seem like much.

EDIT: I tried again today without programming again. I did apparently get it programmed to #1 on the explorer because that is the only position i get the light to function. If I switch addresses then I lose that control until i re_address that loco. I guess that since this doesnt have a program track hookupo that the way i understood it is that once i put it on the track and hit program its basically saying that whatever encoder is powered is going to go by whatever lloco # i set it to. Is that correct? i dont think i need to worry about any other cv's at the moment right? I read on the mrc sight something about lights but no movement and cv29 packets but i think that may have been a different model controller i read.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I do have an MRC system, but a full function one, not the very limited Explorer system you have.

First of all, Cycleops and the others are on the wrong track. What you have described SHOULD have programmed the address, either 1, 2, 3, or 4, into the decoder. You're also correct in that you don't have a programming track with this model, everything on your track when you hit P gets programmed to the same thing. Sounds like you only had one of the locos on the track when you rpogrammed addresses, so cross that off the list of potential issues. You're also correct that you don't HAVE to mess with CV's, now or ever.

My first concern is connectivity. Sounds like things are coming off of a fairly lengthy shelf period. Clean your track and locomotive wheels with rubbing or denatured alcohol and a soft, lint free rag (q-tip for the loco wheels). Even if you think you cleaned it before, to it again, especially if you have brass or steel track.

Second concern is power. The Explorer is only rated at two amps. If your locos are older, they may draw more power than that. No fix for that other than to buy new locos or a new DCC unit (or send that one back and have them upgrade it).

Third, double check your decoder installation, especially if it's not plug and play (another clue that your locos might be older units). If you have a spare decoder (factory fresh), see if it will run on address #3 on your unit, without trying to program the address.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Ctvalley.

Educate us non MRC people about their controller.

I assumed that every make controller would want to first address the #3
default before moving to other settings. On my Bachmann EZ
you first check it at #3 then make your changes.

Don


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## GREENEY (Nov 8, 2015)

I wish I had thought about checking it on 3 first. The encoders do say that 3 is a default. I jist wasnt sure if the explorers dumbed it down so much that loco #3 was it. I am able to reprogram it and move the light function to #3. Just for giggles i guess. I was very careful when i installed the harness for the locos but i will double check those tomorrow. I will also pull the chip and jump the motors to make sure i have conductivity through my connections. I wish i could put it on a bench and see what current they draw but i was told by a local shop that a half amp is realistic per loco.


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## leadsled (Dec 25, 2014)

I have the same controller and am currently using it to run three locos, one with sound.

Two of the locos were DC which I used the same decoder as you mentioned to convert them to DCC. 

All of the CVs are programmable, at least the ones I have tried. Programming is very simple. For example to change the default address 03 to 01:

First make sure your controller is set to the 03 address and the loco is responding to throttle input. If not, Press the Loco button and the number 3 the controller should have an LED lit under the number 3.

Press the "P" button type "01" and hit enter, this selects CV 01, then type the new address "01", "02", or "04" then hit enter. Note: When you first hit the "P" button, two LEDs should flash on the controller, when you hit the Enter button after the second time they should stop flashing, letting you know it is no longer in programming mode.

I have successfully changed light modes, speed settings, and sound settings.

Another note, you can program any loco even when others are running on your layout. Just make sure you have the correct loco selected before programming!

This controller may be considered cheap by some, but I like its simplicity and its perfect for a smaller layout.


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## GREENEY (Nov 8, 2015)

I appreciate all of your inputs. No pun intended. My plan tomorrow is to take the locos to work and check over. I am pretty certain im not shorted or anything. But my main goal will be to snag my test station and run some jumpers to my motor tabs and see what amperage i actually pull. The decoder i used say it will handle 1.5 or 2 start up. Im afraid some of this is just not uderstanding it all. Mpstly the fact that so e programming is for the chip and whats for the controller. And i dont consider myself a total simpleton. Ill update tomorrow evenong when I check out the locos. Thanks a lot.


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## GREENEY (Nov 8, 2015)

Ok here is an update. I checked out my wiring and install. One of my plus didnt feel like it was in the chip all the way. That could be something on one of them. 
I unplugged the chip and tested motor fu ction by putting pins on the brass clips/terminals/brush retainers/whatevers. The motor functioned in both. I then went to the terminals on the bottom of my plug and they also worked from there. One of them runs at about .3 amps the other is about .4 amps. But both flash to about 1 amp (if) i put the pins on with a full 12-13 volts going to it. I assume the chip wont ramp voltage to it quite that fast but, im not certain. 

So this verified my wiring to the motors and tells me im missing a step or just plain screwing up elsewhere.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

DonR said:


> Ctvalley.
> 
> Educate us non MRC people about their controller.
> 
> ...


Unfortunately, me with my Prodigy Wireless unit trying to explain the Explorer is like you trying to explain the Dynamis. His unit is very basic and works nothing like the other MRC products. The only reason I was able to verify the procedure is that all the manuals are on line.

I would have tried address #3 before doing anything else, too. He didn't. So we go from there.

For the OP, can you reset the decoder to the factory defaults, then test it as loco 3 before doing anything else? Since the Explorer only uses addresses 1-4, it may use some different numbering convention, but it's worth a shot.


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## GREENEY (Nov 8, 2015)

CTValleyRR said:


> For the OP, can you reset the decoder to the factory defaults, then test it as loco 3 before doing anything else? Since the Explorer only uses addresses 1-4, it may use some different numbering convention, but it's worth a shot.


I am going to try to do this. I guess the reason im co fused is necause if the light control is following me whe. I try to program? That seems to tell me that it is storing the decoder as whatever i select it as. Seems like it should work. I pronted out the digitrax manual so ill read up on that reset procedure. Not sure i know how to tell still if im teaching the chip or teaching the controller.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

GREENEY said:


> I am going to try to do this. I guess the reason im co fused is necause if the light control is following me whe. I try to program? That seems to tell me that it is storing the decoder as whatever i select it as. Seems like it should work. I pronted out the digitrax manual so ill read up on that reset procedure. Not sure i know how to tell still if im teaching the chip or teaching the controller.


The problem you're facing is that in order to fix it, you're going to have to isolate it to the decoder or the Explorer. Light control doesn't use a lot of juice, so if that's where your problem is, it won't tell you anything.

Starting from a known good condition is the best way to systematically eliminate possible problems.

If your Explorer worked before, I'd be inclined to lean towards the locos or decoders. If you've never tested it before, my bet would be on the Explorer.

My overall rule with performing upgrades is to change only one thing at a time. That way, if it doesn't work after the change, you know where the problem is. For example, I make sure the loco runs in DC well in DC before installing a decoder. Make sure the decoder works on the default address (3) before programming it. And so on.


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## GREENEY (Nov 8, 2015)

I did run them in dc and cleaned to the wheels. I didn't use alcohol but will also do that. I got the explorer and the controller at the same time and installed the decoder harness myself. I definitely see what you mean about making one change for isolation purposes. I am going to take a couple days and read up some more and try to figure out how to reset the decoders.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

DCC is much more finicky about clean track and wheels than DC is. That's why I recommended cleaning everything again.

It sounds like your locos ran ok before you started changing things. I'm guessing you soldered the decoders in, so pulling them out again would be a real chore.

How old are the locos? If their stall current is really high, it might be tripping the breaker on your Explorer, which can only put out 2 amps.


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## GREENEY (Nov 8, 2015)

Ctvalley, I wiped the track off but I did not use alcohol. I think that will make a big difference. You may not have seen in my post from yesterday... I used a power supply and set it to 12-13 volts. I touched the terminals and the motor takes off and at that initial startup the current flashed to just over 1 amp, it then settled down to about .3 amps on one and .4 amps on the other. Yes i unplugged the chip at the time of this testing It could be a little higher with the engine actually on the track however I also figure it wont be that instantaneous either which would keep that at least slightly lower . I did solder the harness in. I really want to sort this out especially since this track is about 6.5 feet off the ground so not having to climb up each time would be nice, putting a siding in would be nice etc.


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## leadsled (Dec 25, 2014)

I installed two of the same decoders as you mentioned in your first post. When plugging the decoder into the harness, make sure it is fully seated, I did have some issues with the shrink wrap on the decoder, keeping it from fully seated.

Also double check you have not shorted the harness out somewhere on or in the locomotive. I believe you have make sure your motor is isolated from the chassis, if not it also can short out the decoder.


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## GREENEY (Nov 8, 2015)

Yes i did make aure i was isolated. I bent my tabs flat that were rubbing on the chassis. Then i used two layers of the good elextical tape to prevent any rubbing. I have all my wires ties out of the way of the flywheels and not pinched. I drilled and tapped for my ground. I cut some of the shrink wrap back because they do get a little sloppy and the plug wont go. I did notice one of them was a little loose (i didnt get it plugged in well enough) so i should try that one again but i plan to clean the track first with alcoho.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

So, I'm rereading this thread, and I notice that Leadsled did not use the address programming mode in the manual, but actually uses the CV programming mode, manually selecting CV 1 (address) and typing in the desired loco address.

Have you tried that and see what happens? Hopefully, Leadsled will stick around, because he actually has an explorer, rather than the rest of us spitballing in the dark.


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## GREENEY (Nov 8, 2015)

Ha well i did read that but was confused by the cv programming of the co troller so i didnt want to broach that method yet. Id need a strict play by play. I normally look too far into things the. My add kicks in and i skip a step...not good for progress a lot of times.


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## GREENEY (Nov 8, 2015)

So are any of you by chance in northern ohio? I want to put these on a track that works and try these engines. I need to look for a local shop with a setup to test this for me.


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## GREENEY (Nov 8, 2015)

Ok to update. I got one of them to work. I also then switched the decoder to the other engine and it worked there too. The nin working decoder just flashes the light on then fades iff when you put it on the track. Not sure whats up so i will probably exchange that unit. 
The other one is working and i am in the process of fixing all my glutch areas in the track.


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## GREENEY (Nov 8, 2015)

Can i post a picture? Without it being on another site?


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

You can post a link to a photo sharing site of you wish. Just send the non working one back and they'll replace it, they have a goof proof warranty.


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## GREENEY (Nov 8, 2015)

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119097&stc=1&d=1450549578

I think this works.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Not for me, it doesn't.

Anyway, defective happens. Return it for a replacememt.


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## Viperjim1 (Mar 19, 2015)

*Explorer dcc*

I had an explorer so I can't remember the exact procedure for cv values but the cv value for a digitrax is 8. So however you program cv values it relates to cv8=8 for factory decoder reset on digitrax with sound or without.


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## Viperjim1 (Mar 19, 2015)

I thought this was how it went but here is the info from the manual.
ROGRAM CV
Configuration Variable or CVs receive and store data to allow the decoder to be tailored to a specific set of features. Each decoder has its own set of CVs. Read your decoder’s instruction or visit our website to get more information about CVs. Unlike programing addresses, Explorer employs DCC program on mian protocol to program CV. So it will only program the loco it addressed. It will not affect all other locos operating on the track. So you can program a CV during normal operation. It will only program the currently selected loco
1. Press P.
2. Input the CV number you want to program and then press ENTER.
3. Input the CV value you want to program into the CV and then press ENTER
again. It takes one second to program and it will then revert back to operating
mode.
If you want to adjust another CV, you have to repeat the above 3 steps. For more information on CV definitions and their values, please read your loco manual or decoder instructions.
Remember digitrax is cv 8 so push P wait for the light press 8 then enter then the number 8 and then enter what for the light or a couple seconds and the factory default is set. Then select channel 3 and see if you loco responds , if so then your able to switch the number , if not try it again sometimes the push buttons on the explorer are tricky , see if it works if not something else may be wrong . But I liked the explorer for its simplicity . But now looking at the new one but it'll be some time before I get it I have a layout to build first so I'll use my old digitrax150


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## GREENEY (Nov 8, 2015)

I will try the reset. 
After much messing with the track last night i decided to ditch my 3 axle per carriage loco. I kept fighting with the wheels walking off the track and it looked pretty good to me. I put the decoder back into my other engine and other than one spot i already knew about it ran around my loop for an hour. Im thinking my inner loop just needs to have a 2axle and ill use the longer one when i get the outer loop running.


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