# What's your favorite adhesive for laying flex-track?



## Chester Copperpot (Oct 30, 2019)

Hello. I'm about to start laying roadbed and flex-track for an N-scale layout, and I'd like to get some recommendations for which adhesive to use. So far, I've heard of using either DAP or a hot glue-gun. What do YOU recommend for ease and/or ability to work with?

Some of my specs: Laying Midwest cork roadbed on 2" blue foam sheets. Then, laying Atlas, code 80 flex-track with Peco insul-frog turnouts. 

Any and all input is appreciated!


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

dap caulking is all that i use


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## Dennis461 (Jan 5, 2018)

I just put a short section Atlas flex code 93 with Elmers glue (it was in the clearance isle for dirt cheap).
My road bed is cork.

I'll let it dry for a day and see if it is as good as the caulk (which is already cheap due to the size of the tube you can get.)


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

There are other considerations. How much noise are you willing to tolerate? How easily taken up to re-lay or to re-use your track lengths would you like? How about watching pennies?

I like my tracks quiet. I also make mistakes. I need to take up and reposition my tracks the odd time. So, I use the DAP Alex Plus with silicon. The one I like best is their ‘clear’ variety. It dries slightly rubbery, which helps with the quieter running, and it’s easily sliced clear with a butcher knife sawing under the tracks.

The clear stuff is a white cream as it emerges from the tube, but it cures rather soon, maybe 45 minutes spread thinly, and dries to a clear, if slightly yellow, sheen.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Thus topic comes up often, so any answers you get here are going to be a rehash of other threads that probably would have come up with a quick search.

My answer is DAP adhesive latex caulk, although I'm sure other brands work fine, too. Lay a small bead (about 1/8") along your track's centerline and spread it thinly. The fake credit cards you get in the mail work great as disposable spreaders. Place you roadbed (foam or cork) in this, and adjust the position if necessary. Weight it and allow it to cure overnight. Repeat the process for your track.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Elmer's glue*



Dennis461 said:


> I just put a short section Atlas flex code 93 with Elmers glue (it was in the clearance isle for dirt cheap).
> My road bed is cork.
> 
> I'll let it dry for a day and see if it is as good as the caulk (which is already cheap due to the size of the tube you can get.)


Denis461;

Elmer's glue has many uses in model railroading, from building benchwork to bonding ballast and scenery materials. However, since it is designed to fasten porous materials, like wood and paper, it is not a good choice for gluing down plastic-bottomed track. Plastic is non-porous. Elmer's glue will attach it, somewhat, but it will be all-too-easy to pull the track loose from whatever you glue it to. Also Elmer's glue is water-soluble. When you spray water on the previously-glued down track, to bond ballast, the glue holding the track down, may stop doing so. 

Caulk, on the other hand, is water-proof, not water-soluble. Once cured it will hold the track firmly in place even when you spray water, or put dilute white glue on the track for ballast. Track laid with caulk can be taken up with a putty knife coated with WD-40 run under the track. 

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

traction fan said:


> Track laid with caulk can be taken up with a putty knife coated with WD-40 run under the track.


Huh. I've used GooGone, caulk remover, and denatured alcohol. All of those work well. Never tried WD-40.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*WD-40 & alcohol*



CTValleyRR said:


> Huh. I've used GooGone, caulk remover, and denatured alcohol. All of those work well. Never tried WD-40.


CTValleyRR;

I found out while working as a service tech, that WD-40, followed by alcohol will remove just about anything from just about anything else. 

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


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