# flex track



## dustinb (Sep 20, 2011)

Tell me if im wrong but is it ok to use flex track for your entire lay out other then the switches and rerailers?


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## deboardfam (Oct 8, 2010)

I was told yes.. I asked the same question in my build thread but I havent tried it yet. Flex track is more realistic on curves etc as you can customize it to what you like. That was the plan I was going with before switching to HO. My HO track will also be all flex track except swiches.


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## Xnats (Dec 5, 2010)

My next layout when it starts will be done with all flex. Using fixed sections you can find yourself in a pickle if you did not probably plan your layout before laying/gluing pieces. Another plus if you go DCC and want a bullet proof layout, you will need less feeders.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

That's what I used on my shelf layout in HO scale. Only other pieces are some rerailers and some switches. You are gonna need some dremel blades though. I cut the pieces with the dremel slightly long then use the side of the cut off wheel to fine tune the ends to the proper dimensions like a sanding wheel. Hope this helps.
-Art


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

I use these to cut the flextrack to length. I only use flextrack.

http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/791-90028


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

I also do all flex and I use the Xuron cutters and the dremel with cut off wheels and a very fine file for the ends to fine tune them!
The #1 main advantage is that you dont have to have consistant curves or straits you can be totally free form! Just make sure the you don't kink a bend at the point where you join the rails!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Stagger the left/right rail joints, if possible. It'll help the track hold its contour better in way of any curved sections.

TJ


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## sikness09 (Jul 21, 2011)

I plan on using flextrack for my entire layout as well (besides the switches). Using Atlas N code 80 flextrack do I need the Atlas switches or can I use others like Peco(which has a bigger variety)?


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

So long as the rail height is the same you should be good to go (Code80 with Code80, etc) If you wanted to get real fancy you could put lighter rail on sidings and they have transition pieces you can install to go between Codes.


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## Xnats (Dec 5, 2010)

Sik what you are talking about is most likely the most popular method from other forums. The Peco's are to be, more DCC friendly too, when you plan to go that route. I'll most likely be following that route myself, when I start a redo.


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## Brakeman Jake (Mar 8, 2009)

I have used Atlas C80 flex with Peco turnouts without problems other than slight filing of the railhead to match.But why wouldn't you use Peco flextrack?They are a bit more expensive than Atlas but considering that Peco's flex come in 36" lengths while Atlas come in 29" lengths (wonder why),the price difference is minor.


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## sikness09 (Jul 21, 2011)

Thanks sstlaure for the info. Never knew about a transition piece. And thank you X, you answered a question I had in mind about dcc. Jake the reason why I chose Atlas track is because the hobby shop I go to does not have Peco flextrack. They only have sectional pieces and turnouts. Atlas track on the other hand, they have a bunch of and it's usually on sale from time to time. They have a lot of Kato track as well but I don't like the price and I plan on using cork roadbed instead. Although Peco seems to be my choice for the next layout I have in mind.


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## ruben123321 (Sep 27, 2011)

the layout im in the prosses of building is all pretty much flex..traded in some HO stuff for 75 ft of flex and a box of corkbed...just have to cut in the turnouts


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## Brakeman Jake (Mar 8, 2009)

Atlas C80 track are wonderful to work with.Only a bit easier than Peco's though.Atlas rails both slide inside the ties wich makes them easier to bend to the desired shape.Another thing I like with the Atlas C80 is that they are already drilled every few inches wich helps a lot to spike them to hold them in place.

You didn't say what method you plan on using.What I do is glue them (and hold them with a weight) so the spikes are nice to keep them right until the glue dries,afterwards you could elect to remove the spikes or leave them,it doesn't matter.However,if you are to install tracks on top of foam,keep in mind that spikes will not hold your track firmly.You better glue them.Then if you install your tracks on solid materials (like wood) then spikes will be OK.

There is a slight difference in height between Atlas C80 tracks and Peco C80 Turnouts.I can't remember wich is higher though but what I did is use paper (or thin cardboard) to shim the lower one a bit so the railheads do match and reduce the filing required to match them perfect.After ballasting,the paper shims don't show.Another tip...do not glue turnouts...let the joiners hold them in place,this is enough.They'll be easier to replace should you need to and you will not have glue seep in your turnout and disturb its movement.


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