# What gauge wire?



## Gansett

I understand you can't run a large layout with just one set of wires feeding the rails. I've read 14 guage is recommended for a bus with feeders every 3 feet? Every 3 feet? What guage should the feeders be? What guage for switches? 

It's been a while since I bought any wire, makes me wish I had invested in copper!

Jack


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## sstlaure

I want to say I used 14 for the buss and 20 for the feeders. I did feeders for each track section (approx every 3 feet, but sometimes less for smaller sections.) It's a little overkill to power EVERY section, but I wanted bullet-proof reliability.


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## raleets

Jack,
I guess I'm just lucky 'cause I'm running three seperate sets of tracks with three seperate transformers and they're all connected with just one feed from each transformer.
One track is an outer loop on a 4X8, which means it's about 24' of actual track. The other is an inner loop of about 22' of track. Then there's a figure eight in the middle, which is about 20' of track.
I've never had any type of problem with my DC locos.
Bob


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## gunrunnerjohn

I think you have the two extremes here, I'd go for something in the middle. 

Remember, as long as you have access, you can add some feeders if you run into issues.


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## tankist

while #14 is very good to run a1.5 circular saw all my wiring is done with phone/network wire (#22-24). no problems running several sound locos at once.


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## gunrunnerjohn

You wimps with HO can get away with that, I think I need heavier stuff.


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## Big Ed

tankist said:


> while #14 is very good to run a1.5 circular saw all my wiring is done with phone/network wire (#22-24). no problems running several sound locos at once.



14 gauge is overkill for HO.



gunrunnerjohn said:


> You wimps with HO can get away with that, I think I need heavier stuff.



14 I think is a must for the O.

well I guess at least 16, a small layout could get away with 18?


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## jzrouterman

I use 16 gauge wire from the auto department at Walmart. It's a lot cheaper than what is available in hobbyshops. And with a DC layout with multi electrical blocks, I've used a lot of wire. So basically I try to cut costs wherever I can. And I like the wire from Walmart too because it's very easy to work with. 

Routerman


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## gunrunnerjohn

Well, I have a spool of 2500 feet of 16GA, so I'll have to figure a way to use that for my layout.


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## raleets

I went through about 125' doing my 4X8 layout. hwell:


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## gunrunnerjohn

Well, I figure the ceiling tracks are going to take a lot of wire!


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## tankist

nothing beats free - cat3 phone wire was free to me.


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## gunrunnerjohn

I have a ton of telephone wire too, it'll figure into the switch wiring.


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## Big Ed

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I have a ton of telephone wire too, it'll figure into the switch wiring.




Most accessories and lights will work fine with that too.


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## gunrunnerjohn

Yep, and they'll be using it!


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## Gansett

Thanks to all for the advice. My layout will be somewhat similar to the one Dawg has done for MODEL, well it'll be U shaped.
Found a place on the web for 100' of 16 gauge for $10.65. I'm going to go with it because sooner or later I will go DCC and don't want to do this twice.
I think I can get some free cat3 for switches and free is good:thumbsup:

Really anxious to get started but treading water until my son gets the cast off then a few weeks of PT.

I've learned to spell gauge too.


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## tjcruiser

Ahhh ... I'll fix that thread title for ya!

TJ


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## Gansett

Thanks for the correction TJ.

Is 16 gauge speaker wire the same as 16 gauge wire? Is speaker wire somehow different? Or is wire wire? I ask because electrical stuff and I aren't the best of friends. I tend to let the magic smoke out,,,a lot.:thumbsup:


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## tjcruiser

I'm no pro, but ...

Speaker wire is generally stranded ... made up of a "rope" of tiny, twisted wires.

House wire (like in your walls), on the other hand, is solid ... one chunk of copper.

If you're running buses to your layout, 16 gauge is way beefy, in my opinion. House circuits run 20 amps or more on 16 gauge.

So, I think either will work fine. If they're more-or-less straight wire runs, I'd use the solid house wire ... probably less resistance loss. If you have to snake a lot of twists and turns, the stranded wire might be better.

Again, I'm no electrician ...

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn

Actually, you are no pro TJ, 20A circuits are 12ga, 15A circuits are 14ga! 

You are correct, solid wire of the same gauge has slightly lower resistance per foot, hence more current carrying capability.


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## Gansett

16 gauge speaker wire will carry the same current as 16 gauge automotive wire? Both are stranded.

FWIW the section of basement I'll be using was my wood working shop and was wired with 20 amp circuits using 12 gauge. It also has a GFCI so I'm not worried about drawing too much and burning down the house. I'm more worried about my [lack of] skill in doing electrical work. Gad I hate electricity.


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## tankist

JackC said:


> 16 gauge speaker wire will carry the same current as 16 gauge automotive wire? Both are stranded.


will my red 0.33L cup cary as much coffie as my yellow 0.33L cup? both have Decals


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## Xnats

It is not that bad Jack. Model train voltage is so low and DC is way safer then AC. When is doubt toss the questions on here. Anton is on the money with phone wire. Keep in mind you will have to hide your feeders with scenery, so the smaller gauges have their advantages


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## Fighterpilot

It's been about 10 years since I looked at a National Electric Code book; but, Gunrunner, I believe that stranded was rated at slightly more carrying capacity than solid wire. In this hobby, I don't believe we are too worried about amp load. It's more about voltage drop over a distance. I believe that 18 ga. is about as big as we need to go on our branch runs, with 14 or 12 used for the main feeder. Stranded wire is the way to go in the sizes mentioned above because it is a lot easier to work with and much more pliable.

Does your forum name imply your other vice? I have the same affliction..


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## gunrunnerjohn

I think you're right, I have it backwards. 

Yep, one of my other vices is old pistols. 

Gunrunnerjohn's Gun Collection


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## theimager

*Wire Confusion.*

If you are powering sections at a time with multiple lockons is 16 gauge over kill ? Can you use 16 from the transformer to say a wiring strip (short run) and then 18 gauge to the lock- ons ? When I was a child we just used thin wire but now I have been told to use 16 gauge. This does not even fit into many of the lockons. Any advice for a new 4x8 layout ?

Thanks.


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## gunrunnerjohn

16ga is fine, you can get away with smaller sizes if you have lots of drops to distribute the load.


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## theimager

OK. Thanks. Stick with 16 gauge.


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## markgrecco

I use 18g stranded soldered to the bottom of the rail joiners and as for frequency I feed every end of each turnout and then every other connection for long runs of flex track. Doing every other connection essentially directly powers each piece from a feeder. For a bus I've used 10g T-90 which is stranded. 10g may be a bit overkill but I had some of that lying around.


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## theimager

Thanks for the info but some of this is way over my head. I am using old tubular track. I am trying to set up my layout so that everything is older than 1960. All legacy stuff made in the U. S. of America. Anyway that is my goal. I am using old CTC lock on's for power and I started off with 16 gauge wire. It is really too think for the lock-ons I am not going to use 18 gauge for the short blocks of about 6 tracks and leave the 16 gauge for the long runs of 12 tracks or so. I am probably running too many wires because they all go back to a terminal block next to the transformer. I guess I should run one long wire and then run smaller wires from that.


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## Big Ed

What transformer are you using?

I use 14 gauge wire to my lockons and that is thicker then the 16 gauge and it goes on the lockon fine? ( I had a big roll of 14 gauge that is why I am using it.)
You should be fine with just one lockon, or maybe just add another to the furthest track.

I have a 8x8 with a 4x5 L added and I only use 2 lockons. I had a spot that slowed down and I think it was a dirty piece of track. I don't think I need the extra lockon but I left it there. 
I am adding a 30 foot run down the wall to the other side of the basement. It is not finished but I didn't add any lockons and the train runs fine down it.

I will add a few more when I get it tacked down permanent. 

You know that the newer lockons with the green lights have a screw down hookup?
You shouldn't have any hooking up problems with those.


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## theimager

Bid_ed, you are right that if I use the screw on lockons then it is not a problem. The old CTC lockons have a very small hole for the wire. I now have three vintage lockons like you show in your photo, and one new one ( I may sell this as I am trying to use only vitage components). Thanks.


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## DonR

Ed

As an HO guy with wires soldered right onto the rails, 
I have to ask, Why do you 0 guys use those track connectors?
(gotta cost $). Why not solder drops to the rails?

Don


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## gunrunnerjohn

I don't know about the other O-gauge guys, I solder to the tracks.


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## sjm9911

Don, because we usually have a_____ load of them after buying all our used track. Honestly I don't know, nostalgia mostly. And it's quicker to attach them then solder, faster to the trainrunning part. Yea, the old ones are a pita. I still used them!


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## eljefe

I've been using 16 and 18 gauge wiring because it's readily available in auto parts stores and is pretty inexpensive.


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