# A 'Creeper' to save your neck while working under a layout!



## videobruce (Jun 15, 2011)

After struggling with my 1st layout 10 years ago, especially trying to position turnout motors under the table, I had no intention of going thru the same thing this time with 3x the number of turnouts.
I looked around for some type of support like auto mechanics use, but a 'raised' version, but I didn't find anything. So off to the drawing board.

Using what I had in scrap wood, hinges, casters, carpets & finally foam, I came up with this. Not a finished product, nor is it 'furniture grade', I'll probably have to 'tweak' things somewhat when I actually get to the stage of using it. My corners were height off the floor, angle angle for the back support and how long of a 'base' will I need.

Using some old built pieces from other projects that I dismantled due to not being needed anymore I put together a 'mock' setup to gauge height of the base & angle of the back support. I wanted to keep is light weight so no 2x4's or 3/4" ply. I used some 'ok' casters I had thou I don't know how they will hold up over time. I do have others that can be used.

Other than height, width & length of the base and lengthe of the back support, cushioning the base where my you know what rests was a prime concern. I had various scrap pierces of carpeting. One was commercial grade padded back (not foam) which was my 1sy choice. I hoped two layers would be soft enough. It wasn't so I settled on one layer and half of a egg crate foam piece for the 'cushion'.


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## videobruce (Jun 15, 2011)

*Details*

I used electrical conduit EMT clamps & threaded rod for the upright support brace. I had those longer arm hinges that seemed a better choice for the back support which was dimensional lumber not plywood like the base was. (I didn't want to use support brackets for that.)

I used 'ball' casters since they are easier to maneuver vs regular flat wheel casters. I used screws except for the base cushion. Nothing was glued so I could dismantle it if and when needed. I used "lath" screws for the back support to secure the carpet, but had to use nails for the cushion, since screws caught the foam, twisting it around making a mess. 

I drilled holes for all the screws to prevent wood splitting. Those large 'blocks' in the corners were overkill. I had those pieces, but now see 2x4's would of been enough.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Very cool, that would make working under there a lot easier!


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Good work!*



videobruce said:


> After struggling with my 1st layout 10 years ago, especially trying to position turnout motors under the table, I had no intention of going thru the same thing this time with 3x the number of turnouts.
> I looked around for some type of support like auto mechanics use, but a 'raised' version, but I didn't find anything. So off to the drawing board.
> 
> Using what I had in scrap wood, hinges, casters, carpets & finally foam, I came up with this. Not a finished product, nor is it 'furniture grade', I'll probably have to 'tweak' things somewhat when I actually get to the stage of using it. My corners were height off the floor, angle angle for the back support and how long of a 'base' will I need.
> ...


 videobruce;

Good idea, and good workmanship on the creeper! Since I have some disability that would prevent working under a layout for more than a few minutes, I can't use the creeper. I'm sure many can, and will. It should save a lot of back aches!:laugh:
Following an idea from a Model Railroader article, I've moved most of my layout's wiring, and all switch motors, to the front of my layout. They are mounted in a wooden channel, just behind the fascia. This will make things a lot easier to work on. I don't know if that's something you would be interested in doing, just thought I would pass it along.
I prefer N scale too; but wouldn't Z scale have the same advantage?

Regards;

Traction Fan


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## fcwilt (Sep 27, 2013)

Hi,

I used a creeper I bought on Amazon as my starting point.

Add some wood to make it the right height.

Used a TV mount and a restaurant serving tray to provide a place for tools.


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## videobruce (Jun 15, 2011)

> wouldn't Z scale have the same advantage


N scale is small enough to work on, Z scale would be even worse Point of diminishing returns. 

*fcwilt;*
Now you tell me. 
Wow, that really puts mine to shame. I never thought about modifying a mechanics creeper.


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## videobruce (Jun 15, 2011)

*version 2*

After a few more 'sitting sessions', the method of securing the carpet & foam wasn't working. I was catching the nails when I moved around, even after driving them in further.

I cut another piece of scrap carpet (the same material that I used for sound deadening along the walls), this time I cut it long enough to wrap both sides so I could use those 'lath' screws to secure it to the sides.
Unfortunately, the threads of this cheaper material got caught when I drove two of the screws in (unlike that better commercial carpet I used before).


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Some good, old-fashioned Yankee ingenuity, there: identify a problem, build a solution.

I bought one from Northern Tool that has wheels on legs that can pivot to change the height, and has a headrest that pivots at a 45-degree angle. It was expensive, but useful. Something like this would have saved me $$.


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## Mr.Buchholz (Dec 30, 2011)

Awesome idea, but I'd still bang my head into something, creeper or no creeper! 

-J.


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## videobruce (Jun 15, 2011)

You wouldn't if you had a 'bump' cap! 
http://www.occunomix.com/products/hard-hats/hard-hats-and-caps/traditional-bump-cap.html

Not a *hard* hat, but a smaller bump cap. I also have one of those.


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## jlc41 (Feb 16, 2016)

Very cool, just what I need. I have a dozen or so switch motors to install. Something like this will make it a lot easier. Gota love this forum!!!


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