# Anyone removed loco wheel flanges? 2-8-0 cannot handle 18" radius.



## Dennis461 (Jan 5, 2018)

I've got a Varney 2-8-0; all drive wheels have flanges. It cannot handle 18" radius curves.
I tried replacing the main side rod with a sectional one to allow more freedom of movement. That lasted a month, then the main pin connecting the drive rod to wheel snapped.

Rebuilt the engine to original.

I'm thinking of removed loco wheel flanges on the center drive wheels.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Can't remember where I saw it. One multiple axle car had a blind flange on the end. It was three axle.


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## Dennis461 (Jan 5, 2018)

Had not thought of an end axle 🦉


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## afboundguy (Jan 10, 2021)

Hmmmm that's not a bad idea... I have my K4 that can almost handle my 16ish inch curve. I have a spare not really working K4 I bought for parts I could try de-flanging the rear wheel on that!


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## Jscullans (Jul 8, 2019)

I have a 2-10-2 that has a blind flange on the middle axle but that being said to take a range off a set of drivers cleanly you almost need a lathe


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## 65446 (Sep 22, 2018)

I've an old brass Akane Ma & Pa Connie 2-8-0 with 2 middle drivers on both sides, blind, flangeless..
This is/was common on several kinds of 1:1 scale steam and models of them...
My vote would be to grind down the same on yours and put back the original side rods..

Disclaimer: I've never done this..I know it's done..I don't promise it, but you are likely to have success in doing so... 🏭 🛤🌵🏚


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## Jscullans (Jul 8, 2019)

The issue with grinding is it would possibly flat spot a wheel. If that’s the only option then that’s the only option but I wouldn’t suggest it


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

yes it can be done .... for normal home users spin the motor with a sprare power supply, and take the flanges off the middle two axles with a dremel with a fairly large diameter rotary grinding wheel ... you may need to cover the opposing side to keep most of the grinding dust out .. and blow it off good after ..


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## Dennis461 (Jan 5, 2018)

OK, I cut the flanges off of a spare axle. Now it goes around curves OK.
But either the motor or decoder is crapping out!


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## Dennis461 (Jan 5, 2018)

Boiler off, it runs fine???


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

Maybe a worn wire was beginning to sag onto part of a driveshaft? Just a guess, but often the addition of the shell, or it's surfaces in conjunction with internal parts, causes friction which not only makes the motor work harder and produce more heat, and you to lose the top end of the voltage intended for speed or trailing tonnage, but it scrubs away at insulation on the wire.

BTW, I would have tried to eliminate the flange profile on one axle at first, and then the central two axles, to see what effect it would have. All model trains have some lateral motion built in, and with steamers it is in both the cranks and blind drivers, but also in the relative lengths of the axles. I have pictures of an ALCO back-woods 2-8-2 at Woss on Vancouver Island. Its two center sets of drivers are both blind. Only four drivers have flanges. It last ran on an excursion at the Woss camp and sawmill in about 1998.


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