# Lionel 610 Pullman & 612 Observation Passenger Cars



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I mentioned over in the Anything New thread that I've picked up a set of prewar Lionel tinplate passenger cars ... 2 x 610 Pullmans, and 1 x 612 Observation. Doyle lists these as circa 1935 - 1942.

As a sidenote, these 2nd-generation style cars should not be confused with the earlier-generation 610/612 that's discussed in T-Man's project thread here ... http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=1583

My cars have plenty of nicks and scratches on the outside, but are mechanically sound. Good candidates for some restoration work, I hope.

My current (very early) thinking is to wire-brush-strip the outside red paint, and leave the interior red paint intact ... the interior red is in pretty good shape. I've popped the hood on one of the 610's to see that silver side panel is a single-piece insert (windows, doors, nametags) that's held in place with 8 metal tabs. I removed one side piece to explore a bit.

The windows on each side did have a clear acetate (?) "glass" panel. Most of mine are pretty chewed up. I'm not sure if repros (with the appropriate tab slots) are available. Does anyone know about this??? Also, my existing acetate (?) sheets cover the windows, only ... not the door windows. However, the doors have unused tabs in way of their windows. Does anybody know why???

Fortunately, the trucks are all held on with O-clips (sort of like a C-clip), so they can be easily removed. No truck rivets like some other Lionel tinplates.

I think the Krylon Banner Red that I've used on other projects will be a very good color match. I'm not sure about the silver, though ... I haven't looked to see if Krylon or Rustoleum make something close.

I'm not sure how far along I'll get with this project now that the weather is getting chilly here in RI ... paint work may have to wait until the spring. Or maybe we'll get lucky with some nice Indian Summer weather!

Either way, I'll keep you guys posted ...

TJ



*AS FOUND:*





































*610 UNDER THE HOOD, WITH ONE SIDE PANEL REMOVED*


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Look to be in pretty good shape for 70-80 year old toys. 

Can't you just cut plastic sheets to size to do the windows?


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Probably. They have a few small cutouts in way of tab slots.

What is used for hobby-store clear plastic sheets these days? Acetate? Celluloid? 

I'm still curious about the door windows. Why tabs there? My original "window" sheets don't extend to cover the door windows.

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, I save the plastic packaging from those impossible to open products that are armor sealed, they're nice heavy stock that makes perfect windows.  I guess the doors had separate plastic inserts. Of course, back in the 30's, did they have plastic?


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Yes , They had an acetate that I have on my 20's 610. Form the pictures in Doyle some cars have a foggy windows some clear. With metal cars I don't think you need them.

Here is the old Terry Gibbs Site on the modern 610

This is the new index in production.
.
TJ they look great but I know yu want to paint them. In doing my older cars I did not do the inserts. They are original.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Thanks, T-Man ... great link ... nice side-by-side comparisons.

I'll likely not paint the inserts in way of the lettering. Some minor scratches there, but not too bad.

I may "opt out" of the window clear film ... the tinplate has a nice look without it, as you suggest.

Decisions ... decisions ... decisions ...

TJ


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

*The Fall Weather Scramble ...*

The weather has been changing quickly here in RI the past few weeks ... getting much colder. I do all of my spray-paint work outdoors, and I've been in a scramble to get a few projects done (the paintwork, at least) before it's too cold to yield a nice finish. I try to spray in 60-deg or higher weather.

And so, while I had intended for these Lionel 610/612 passenger cars to be a "winter restoration project", I've pushed ahead to get most of the paint work done over the past week. I disassembled the main components of the cars ... essentially, a roof, a balcony (for the observation car), a pair of window/door/nameplate inserts, and trucks and airtanks on the bottom. Typical tinplate tabs holding most of it together. (I only broke one tab! )

The exterior paint of the cars was dinged and scratched, but the interior paint wasn't too bad. Initially, I thought I'd just strip and repaint the outside. But ... How would one strip the outside while leaving the interior alone? I was afraid to use the EasyOff bath for that ... I don't think I could tape off all of the doors and windows adequately. So, I started to strip a small portion of the outside with a Dremel stainless brush ... but it was a tedious process, at best. So ...

After some soul-searching, I made an "exectutive decision", and opted to strip the full car shells ... inside and out .. using an EasyOff bath. In the end, I think this was the right thing to do. After some Dremel brush buffing, all surfaces were nice and shiny. I topcoated with Krylon primer and Krylon Gloss Banner Red, which is the samel color I've used on a few of my 1681's. This red is a very close match to the original 610/612 red.

For the roofs and balcony, I looked initially at a can of standard Krylon Aluminum paint, but it was a shade or two darker than the original "aluminum" paint color. After a bit of store-searching, I found that my local Ace hardware store carries Krylon "Special Purpose Metalics" Dull Aluminum #1403 ... it's a dead-ringer-match to the original Lionel paint. I've used this in stripping and refinishing the roofs an balcony.

My game plan is to use the nameplate area (with text) of the side panels as-is (some scratches, but text is generally legible), but to tape that off and respray the window and door area with the same Krylon Dull Aluminum.

In the repaint work, I've "lost" the "Lionel Lines" text over the top of the windows. Jeff Kane passed along a source for suitable dry-tranfer decals for this, but the price is very steep ... $25 bucks a sheet!  The source is Art Warnick in Waynesboro, PA. Has anyone here ever used stuff from him before? ? ?

As I stated previously, my original window films are toast ... cracked / brittle. I'm not sure yet if I'll try to replace them, or go "glass-less".

And ... all this just in time, too ... forecast in RI is for snow flurries over the next couple of days! 

Cheers,

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

They look like new!  They'll be a fine looking set when you put them back together!

FWIW, I'd go with the windows, I think it adds something to the cars.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I have seen window inserts on e bay, I think I saved the seller. The end tabs are there because some of them came with conductor inserts.

I will check for them this weekend. I have limited time right now.
Work, work, work.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'd just roll my own, plenty of raw materials available for free.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Forget the decals , time to be original, stamp it.

It's looks great. Wel Done!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

John, Ed, T-Man,

Thanks for the nice comments ... much appreciated. As I've fiddled with a few of these tinplate repaints now, I've come to learn that some paint colors "go on" much richer than other colors. This Banner Red sprayed over the rust-colored primer is a treat to use. It yields a very rich pigment. On the other hand, I did a bright yellow gondola a while back ... it took coats and coats of paint to build up a decent rich finish.




big ed said:


> I have seen window inserts on e bay, I think I saved the seller. The end tabs are there because some of them came with conductor inserts.
> 
> I will check for them this weekend.


Ed ... Ohhh !!! Conductor inserts ?!? I've been wondering why the door windows had tabs but nothing there. Do post a pic/link if you happen to see one of these tinplate passenger cars with something in the door window.

John, I haven't decided on the "with or without" window plan. I could use any Staples-type clear film, I guess. Jeff Kane sells sheets (8.5" x 11" ???) of clear film, and also a white-matte translucent film. That could look nice. However, to "roll your own", I'd need to practice cutting the tiny rectangular tab holes, without having any over-cut drift into the visible window area. A sharp, pointy X-Acto, I'd guess.

T-Man ... I confess: I'm a wimp. Much too scared to try the rubber stamp thing. I wish I had more guts. But after tackling the nice paint work, I'd be terrified to have a "one shot" pass at getting the stamp letters on. I really need to "buck up" and start practicing that on some scrap samples, though. It could certainly open some nice new restoration options for me.

I mentioned that I found a source of dry-tranfer letters, but at $25 bucks a sheet, I'm still in a state of shock at trying to fathom the price!

Cheers,

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I save the thick plastic from bulletproof packaging, I have a bunch of it here. If you really need some, I'll put some in an envelope and send it to you. I think an X-acto knife should allow you to create the windows, and the price is right.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Thanks, John ... appreciated. I'll pass, for now, though. I have some "fogged" drafting mylar film that might work ... a bit thin, but easier for me to cut the tiny rectangular mount tab holes.

Gonna experiment on some options a bit ...

TJ


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

TJ, there is a set of videos on YouTube where a guy is restoring cars very similar to what you have. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8812MRPDy5c&feature=related

BB


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Never thought of Mylar drafting paper, I have a roll of that around here too.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Bruce,

Thanks for that video link! 7 video segments, actually. Very well done, following a passenger car restoration project. You're right ... it's very similar to the work I have at hand.

A few intersting points (from my perspective).

I didn't know that on some of these tinplate passenger cars, the doors actually swing open. That's not the case with mine.

I'm glad he talked about maintaining a ground connection for the light between the underside of the carriage and the top of the truck. I have beautiful, new paint job on my carriage, but -- quite frankly -- I would have forgotten about having a little bare metal contact in way of the truck for a ground circuit connection. A "duhh" moment for me!

I'm a huge proponent of stripping with Easy Off Oven Cleaner, followed by a detailed, tiny Dremel stainless brush buff/polish. This guy has a different approach ... strip with lacquer thinner, followed by an electro-bath (electrolysis style) to derust, and then a drill-press-mounted wire brush down. Different strokes for different folks, I guess. I'm quite happy with my method.

I nearly had a heart-attack when I saw him spray painting about 4 feet from his car in the garage. Yikes. I'd be terrified of overspray!

He didn't talk about using heat to help bend the tinplate tabs. I learned this trick recently ... especially when unbending the tabs on the tops of the latch couplers. I use a tiny torch for disassembly (not worrying about paint marring), and for re-assembly on bare-metal parts, I use the tip of a soldering iron. Just a few seconds, but I think the heat helps soften the metal just a touch, and offer a better chance of bending without breakage.

I'm relieved to see that after re-assembly, he has a few tiny spots requiring paint touchup, too. I thought maybe "it was just me"!!!

During the paint spray process, he places his parts on cups on the floor, and then walks around all sides to paint. I mount my parts a few inches above some 2-foot squares of pink-stuff foam (using coat hanger wire) ... I find that it's easy to spin the foam square around during the painting process, making it easy to paint all sides of your part while standing in one place.

For cleaning /polishing tiny metal parts, he used Dremel felt wheels with some polishing paste. Good results on his end. I've tried that, and it's tedious. Instead, I opt for my trusty Dremel stainless brush, followed by a quick clearcoat of airplane dope.

I really enjoyed watching the videos ... around 40 minutes or so, in all. Very interesting.

Thanks, Bruce!

TJ


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

TJ, I enjoyed the videos, even though I am doing nothing with my trains at this time except posting on this forum and the CTT forum. Heating the tabs is a great idea. Steel will slightly work harden when it is bent, and you are annealing it by heating it and letting it cool slowly. I am sure most of the steel is low carbon steel like 1018 or 1020 which bends easily and doesn't get very hard. If you could get the tabs just to the temp where they started to glow, you could bend them without fear of breakage, but that clearly isn't possible after the cars are painted. It might be that heating them to relieve stresses after they are opened up and before the part is painted might eliminate much of the breakage. 

BB


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## Stillakid (Jan 12, 2010)

TJ, nice job on the restoration
As usual, they will be a wonderful addition to your collection, and a great "keepsake" for the little guys!

Regards,
Jim


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Bruce -- We gotta get you going on some restoration work! Good info on the steel properties.

Jim -- Thanks! I appreciate the kind words very much!!!

TJ


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

TJ 

In my searches I came upon some info on those tabs and they said some of them came with conductor inserts.

I looked high and low.
I can't find the site that I was looking at now.
I thought I book marked it but I guess I didn't.

I do have one more computer to fire up in the den. I don't use that much anymore maybe it is in that one.hwell:


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I like to elevate my piece that I'm painting and then walk around it and paint. For shells, I stick a 2x4 inside and some foam to secure it, then I can just walk around and get all angles.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Ed -- I appreciate the research effort. As far as I've seen, all of the 610/612's have tabs on the door windows, but no inserts. Very strange. Seems to me that the tabs were there for some reason, as you suggest ... perhaps a limited production run (like a Macy's or something) with a conductor silhoette? I just learned (via the video links above) that some other Lionel tinplate passenger cars had doors that actually swung open ... the doors are not integral with the main window insert plate, like mine.

John -- I had a tricky time painting the inside of these cars. I was trying to get primer/paint "up on the underside" of the light-mount bracket, but there was really no easy way to do that, without getting runny paint overspray on other areas of the car. I opted to not over-do it ... but that did leave me with a few light paint areas on the upper/inside of the cars.

Interestingly, the sidewalls of these cars are bead-soldered to the car base (frame) in several places. It's not just tinplate tabs holding everything together. Accordingly, there's no easy way to disassemble the car shell into it's "virgin" components.

Cheers,

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I don't traditionally spend much time on the inside of stuff I paint, I guess all those windows allows you to see inside.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

TJ, How about a short brush?


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I was more concerned with the primer on the inside for long-term rust prevention, rather than the actual paint from an aesthetic standpoint. Between a few light primer coats, and the topcoat red, I'm hoping I got most of the inside OK ... I like red ... but not rusty red down the road, if you know what I mean!

Bruce ... before I put the window inserts on, I'll have a close look "up under the top flanges". If I see any light spots, I'll brush-hit 'em, as you suggest.

TJ


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

*Progress with the Passenger Cars ...*

Hi guys,

I've made some more progress with my 610/612 passenger car restoration.

As found, I didn't like the way the pressed roof parts fit on top of the passenger car shells. It was is if each cambered roof piece was a tiny bit too small to fit the shell ... you could get 3 corners of the roof to cover the lip of the shell nicely, but the 4th corner wouldn't quite fit over the edge.

I've seen this same poor fitting characteristic on ebay pics of other Lionel tinplate passenger cars. I'm not sure if it's a wide-spread issue, or just random given Lionel's old fabrication tolerances.

Regardless, (before paintwork) I opted to grab the Dremel grinding disc, and grind down a "taper and camber" into the top edges of the passenger car shells in way of where the roof corner would fit. You can see two identical pics below ... one with blue Photoshopped lines showing where I ground down the edges, and the other as the end result. I'd be curious if anyone has tried this before. I'm quite happy with the results ... the roof pieces fit much better, and the "ground away" top edge of the shell is tucked up inside the roof, so you don't see any evidence of the modification once the roof is installed.

Additionally ...

After some head-scratching, I opted to add "fogged" window sheets to the cars, including coverage over the side door windows. I had a heavy-stock sheet of mylar that I cut into 7/8" strips, and then used a sharp single-edge razor to cut tiny rectangular tab-holes into that in way of the side-panel assembly tabs.

The video in Bruce's link (above) had a good tip on how to bend the tabs underneath the seats back into position. I used a short length of threaded pipe (3/8" in O.D. ... like you might find in a lamp socket) as a "slug" to push the tabs with my fingertip. The threads on the pipe acted as "grab fingers" to catch and push the tab edge.

I should mention that I re-intalled the air tanks under the shell, first, before re-installing the window side-panels ... easier to access the air tank tabs, that way.

Next step is cleaning up the trucks/wheels, and rewiring the power leads for the light sockets.

Cheers,

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Looks great, the frosted windows are probably the way to go with these.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> ... the frosted windows are probably the way to go with these.


After a bit of soul-searching, that's kind of what I leaned toward. I think it will look especially nice in a darkened room with the passenger car interior light turned on.

I'd be very curious to see what others think, though: no window film, clear window film, frosted window film ... ???

Votes?

Cheers,

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You need some passenger silhouettes in the windows to really complete the effect. 

I certainly think they needed windows, clear or frosted is the choice. If you put figures inside, then clear, for the silhouettes, frosted.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I showed the cars to my kids earlier today, and they asked for silhouettes, too!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

They add a bit to them, especially if they're lit from the inside. You need passengers.


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## mrjcoz (Apr 12, 2011)

recently got 2 609s and a 611 door window panels are ok roofs are scratched bodies were repainted badly.what do you guys recommend to remove old paint.also need the railing piece for observation in nickel


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, the popular choice here is oven cleaner, the nastier the better. Disassemble them and paint them all over with it, then put them in a plastic freezer bag overnight with the cleaner still on, works like magic!.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

tjcruiser said:


> After a bit of soul-searching, that's kind of what I leaned toward. I think it will look especially nice in a darkened room with the passenger car interior light turned on.
> 
> I'd be very curious to see what others think, though: no window film, clear window film, frosted window film ... ???
> 
> ...


I did see some green and red tinted inserts on e bay, how do you think they would look?

There are some silhouette's for other passenger cars with the conductor inserts. I wonder if you would be able to cut them out to make them fit. They might be too small for your passenger cars.

Item number 250921810661


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## mrjcoz (Apr 12, 2011)

*re:aint removal*

thanks the easy off should have dawned on me.my first crack at this.i really falling for this prewar stuff.not too expensive or hard to work on.so far lol.thanks again


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

mrjcoz said:


> thanks the easy off should have dawned on me.my first crack at this.i really falling for this prewar stuff.not too expensive or hard to work on.so far lol.thanks again



Don't get the lemon scented it doesn't work that well.:thumbsdown:
Get the extra heavy duty type oven cleaner.

Put a broiler pot under it, my freezer bag dissolved over night.
It was a heavy duty bag too!
I zipped mine shut, they tell me to leave it open to vent.

A second spraying will help too.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

TJ, these might be a little bigger silhouette's they are for the #60 trolley.

E bay item # 110607460945


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

The oven cleaner "bubble bath" can generate quite a bit of heat. I do mine in a a couple-layers of lasagna pans covered in tinfoil, sitting outside for 3 or 4 hours. I'd be a bit reluctant to let it sit in the house, given the heat risk and the fumes.

Ed -- I'm anxious to see how the fogged windows look once I get the interior light rigged up. I might try to make some people silhouettes on a thin mylar sheet with a black Sharpie, and stick that to the inside of my now-permanently mounted fogged windows.

Thanks for the ebay hits ... I've never really looked too closely at those silhouette people before.

Cheers,

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

How accurate a restoration are you going for? For nice even lighting, you might consider a strip of LED bulbs.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

big ed said:


> Don't get the lemon scented it doesn't work that well.:thumbsdown:
> Get the extra heavy duty type oven cleaner.
> 
> Put a broiler pot under it, my freezer bag dissolved over night.
> ...


I've done two things this way, the Ft. Knox Express loco and the milk platform. Both went fine in the freezer bag, though I also put them in a cookie sheet in case of leakage. I sealed the bag, no problem at all.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

John,

These cars will be only light runners ... so actual "lit time" is minimal. I'm trying to keep the restoration resonably authentic, but I've already deviated with the fogged windows (including over the door), and (so far), no "The Lionel Lines" text over the windows. I found dry-transfer decals, but a $25 a sheet (I'd need 3 sheets, I guess?), that's too steep for my pockets!

TJ


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

TJ, the guy that made the video showing how he restored 3 passenger cars had some stick on lettering that looked great. He didn't say where he got it from, though.

I have a 152 engine and two cars that I would like to restore some day. They have some of that faint "gold" lettering on them with appropriate curly cues. I think the stick on lettering would be the best for them.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

BTW, I have the original box for the 152 set with the original track and original rheostat. The box is in reasonable condition considering its age.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Hi guys,

I've finished up the restoration of my 1930's Lionel 610 / 612 passenger cars. I'm pretty happy with the way these turned out. I like how the fogged windows look with the interior light lit.

The only thing I haven't done (yet?) is reproduce the "The Lionel Lines" wording over the windows. I mentioned above that I have a source of dry-transfer decals for these, but they're not cheap. That said, I like how the cars look without that lettering, so I may just pass on that ... for now, at least.

These are large cars ... I think I'll team them up with my new 238E loco.

Cheers,

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Nice job TJ, they look like new cars! :thumbsup:


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Thanks, John ... I appreciate the thumbs-up.

I opted not to repaint the "nametag" portions of the insert sections below the windows ... "Observation", "Pullman", etc. At close glance, the silver paint and wording there is definitely scratched and scruffed up a bit. But I kind of like it that way ... give a little tie and remembrance of the long road that these trains have traveled!

Hey ... quick (and naive) electo question ...

I grabbed whatever light bulbs I had on hand and mounted one in each car. One bulb glows much brighter (and more nicely) than the other two (when all three cars are on the track together, with the same track throttle power). If I want brighter bulbs, do I buy bulbs with lower voltage rating or higher voltage rating? I think lower, right? More chance of burning the bulb out, but a brighter glow for the given input voltage ???

Thanks,

TJ


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Well, I can't rib you about not having any passenger cars.

They look great! :thumbsup:

Now a picture of them on the rails with the engine please.

Now.......how about adding some more to the train?

A longer train consisting of,
An e bay wreck, transformed into a TJ custom fabricated sky-liner observation car complete with a lighted up dome top?

An e bay wreck, transformed into a TJ custom diner car? 
An e bay wreck, transformed into a TJ custom baggage car?

Got to keep you busy.:thumbsup:


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, the number plates look pretty good, so I have to agree with your assessment that trying to "fix" them would have probably been a mistake. 

As far as the bulbs, both of the things you said are pretty much correct. Lower voltage bulbs will typically burn brighter, but will also risk premature burnout. Higher current bulbs will also burn brighter.

Look at it this way, a 6V bulb will burn 100% of it's design light output at 6V, running the same bulb at 9V will quickly burn it out.

You need to determine what is the "nominal" track voltage, as well as the maximum that you'll see, and then make your selection. Of course, this is why I'm so high on LED's, I can have blinding light with no current draw to speak of, and they'll last forever, or at least longer than I will. 

You might want to look at some bulb specifications, the light output will typically be a product of the total power consumed by the bulb (although not linear with power). In other words, a bulb that requires 0.2A will burn brighter than one at the same voltage that requires 0.1A.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

TJ, they look great! :thumbsup:

You are a rehab machine. No doubt.


For bulbs I go with 14.4 volts.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

John, Ed, T-Man ... thanks much for the nice comments ... much appreciated.

John / T ... good tech tips on the bulbs ... duly noted (electrical know-how is not my forte).

Ed ... I'll snap an on-the-track pick at some point soon ... I hope ... not much free track space on my tiny layout, though ... it's all standing-room-only, packed with other locos, freight cars, and plenty of projects-in-the-works ... motor parts, lonely shells, etc. I'm embarrased to say that I haven't been running the O trains too much ... those pesky O27 switches, and not much room to navigate.

It's in the works, though, I hope ... fun plans ahead!

Thanks again, guys!

TJ


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

TJ, Good job. Beautiful,

Sorry about the problem of not enough room. My trains are all packed away in boxes since I got home from California. Too many people, not enough house.

BB


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

TJ, I know the feeling. I'm skipping Wilmington this weekend, maybe Marlboro early in DEC. I have to do some boxing and research some projects.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

No Wilmington/Shriners for me this weekend, either ... other family/house priorities. I enjoyed the huge Amherst/Springfield show early in the year, and will likely do that one again (Jan/Feb?).

Cheers,

TJ


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