# What exactly are these called?



## kix662003 (Mar 8, 2013)

My
lack of knowledge about trains shows here, but I'm going to a few shows in the coming weeks and I'd like to know exactly what these missing "canopies" are called. I have two (AHM I think) engines that will reside in my engine house on the switching layout that are missing the same part. I'd like to buy a couple (cheap) at a show. Thanks!



















The third (Santa Fe 3500) engine is complete and just happens to be in the photo.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I would say a cab roof?

But wait and see what others say.


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## Gansett (Apr 8, 2011)

Cab or cab assembly? What brand? Model? Maybe the manufacturers web site has a parts breakdown?


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

The 3500 is like like. The chassis with the styrofoam is a Bachmann. The other chassis appears to be an AHM.

I would guess GP30 or GP35. Two are high hoods.

Hows that for pointing out the obvious?


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

rrgrassi said:


> The 3500 is like like. The chassis with the styrofoam is a Bachmann. The other chassis appears to be an AHM.
> 
> I would guess GP30 or GP35. Two are high hoods.
> 
> Hows that for pointing out the obvious?


LIKE LIKE ?  like like what? :laugh:

But what is the missing part in question?


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## ggnlars (Aug 6, 2013)

The Santa Fe 3500 is a Life Like GP 38-2 loco. It is a starter train set model.
The two units missing the cab roofs are AHM RSO GP18 loco's. They notoriously lose their roofs. You might find the parts at a train show, but more likely you will need to get a broken up shell that still has the roof.
The chassis on the right is an AHM Tempo C-Liner chassis. These had several renderings, so if your looking to get a shell for it, you need to be sure it is the right one. 
The chassis on the left is a Bachmann 4-wheel drive chassis. It is for a GP40 or U-boat shell. This level of Bachmann used the same parts for both types. These units are notorious for cracked idler gears. If it clicks while running in either direction, one or both of the gears are cracked.

Larry


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## daveh219 (Sep 16, 2012)

Big Ed...glad you said it. I don't have the seniority to rebuff someone. Actually it's only ONE letter off...


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## kix662003 (Mar 8, 2013)

Thanks for the replies and information! The Life-Like was NIB at the last train show, with damage to one end of the box. The front coupler is broken, and one of the rails on the front is cracked and loose. I bought it for $7, thinking I can put new couplers on and glue the rail. I only have a few locomotives, but I'm a little disappointed with this one after running my Atlas and Athearn engines. That's why it's in the tin with the AHM locos that need work and are missing the cab roofs.

Thanks ggnlars, for all the specifics. That will help a lot. One chassis just makes noise, but the other clicks. Now that I know that the AHMs lost their cab roofs, I can ask if the vendor has a "scrap" box that I can root through. I may carry the engines to the show to test fit pieces I may find. The show tomorrow is just south of the Dover Air Force base, and I may see some different vendors and items.


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## ggnlars (Aug 6, 2013)

The life like loco can run fine. It is light and 4 wheel drive, so it will never pull as well as an Atlas, Athearn or Kato unit. These require traction tires on the 4 driver plastic wheels. The metal pickup wheels should be a shiny brass color. With this and a little lube it will run nicely. The coupler fix may be a little more difficult. The earlier versions were truck mounted. If the pocket is not broken, then it will be easy. If it is than you need a new truck. The later versions were body mounted and the clips and mounts break easily. It takes some doing to fix those if their broken.
If the loco has Hong Kong written on the bottom, don't try to fix it. It is basically a piece of junk. The drive train is made of very cheap plastic that just eats itself up as it runs.


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

big ed said:


> LIKE LIKE ?  like like what? :laugh:
> 
> But what is the missing part in question?


You Know... like like...a life like... 

Still can't type...spell check does not fix stupid typing.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

daveh219 said:


> Big Ed...glad you said it. I don't have the seniority to rebuff someone. Actually it's only ONE letter off...


I was only busting his........
I knew what he meant, sorry R, I couldn't resist.


So the consensus is a cab roof then?
I couldn't think of anything else to call it.


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## kix662003 (Mar 8, 2013)

ggnlars said:


> The life like loco can run fine. It is light and 4 wheel drive, so it will never pull as well as an Atlas, Athearn or Kato unit. These require traction tires on the 4 driver plastic wheels. The metal pickup wheels should be a shiny brass color. With this and a little lube it will run nicely. The coupler fix may be a little more difficult. The earlier versions were truck mounted. If the pocket is not broken, then it will be easy. If it is than you need a new truck. The later versions were body mounted and the clips and mounts break easily. It takes some doing to fix those if their broken.
> If the loco has Hong Kong written on the bottom, don't try to fix it. It is basically a piece of junk. The drive train is made of very cheap plastic that just eats itself up as it runs.


Thanks for your knowledge! Your replies motivated me to see what I could do on the LL engine. Here's what I started with. The coupler box looked fine. I had a Bachmann coupler set on hand, so I decided to see if I could install one without breaking something...








I think some Superglue will take care of the handrail. Is it the best glue for the repair?









This is the underside. It does run, probably very well, but it doesn't seem as strong or solid. You covered that and the lighter weight. Do any of the numbers mean anything?









The new couplers are on both ends, centered, correct height and I didn't break anything. I put it on the layout and pulled a pullman car and track cleaning boxcar behind with no problem and grabbed a weighted 3 bay hopper with the front coupler and backed around the oval. I'll get the rail glued if Superglue is the cement to use. Thanks again for the info!


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## ggnlars (Aug 6, 2013)

It is one of the better versions with couplers on the trucks. The pick up wheels are shiny and the traction tires appear to be there. You did a good job on the couplers, so you have a good loco to used in DC on small jobs. I am not aware of any meaning to the numbers on the bottom of the chassis. I would guess it is a part number. Not sure why it is on the outside of the unit. 
This unit has a similar pancake motor to the Bachmann chassis in the OP. the main difference is these are very reliable where the Bachmann version is prone to cracked gears. I can't fathom why, but the Bachmann units changed several times to try to fix this issue. It never seemed to help. The Life Like units only had one motor and gear design until they went with the Hong Kong models. Those units have a Pittman like motor. I think they were trying to get them to pull more, but ended up with junk. These are much better. Don't over lube the motor. Just a little grease on the gears and some light oil where the axels fit in he trucks. Too much lube will foul the motor.

I would use a Faller glue. I use super expert on all of my plastic to plastic bonds. The expert version may be just as good. I like these because of the metal rod that the glue comes out of. You can put a little glue right where you want it. Yes, they do get plugged up. I keep a small piece of small diameter wire handy. I get it from some extra stranded hookup wire. It needs to be long enough to go through the metal rod length and the thickness should be big enough to just fit in the rod.


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## kix662003 (Mar 8, 2013)

Thanks again for the new information. I've heard others talk about the expert version. I'll get some and try it. Didn't find any cab roofs today, but one vendor said he will bring of big box of shells and pieces for me to look through at the show in two weeks. I did buy a like-new UP shell for the Bachmann chassis. I have to trim the opening for the front coupler a little to get it to fit. It was 25 cents, so I'm not out much if it doesn't work. I was looking for back issues of MR magazine for learning and reference. I bought the last four years for $20, so hopefully I won't have to ask so many questions! The show today didn't have a lot of shoppers, so I got some bargains. I picked up two more Atlas EMD FP-7 diesels like the one I bought from a forum member a few months ago, a few pieces of American Flyer HO track that I had never seen before... not to use, just display. There were also some Lionel HO engines and cars, and one vendor was liquidating a big brass collection. Way too rich for me! Had a good time and learned a lot from the collectors there.


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## ggnlars (Aug 6, 2013)

The Atlas FP7 are great loco's. They have ROCO drives. These were among the first series ROCO made for them after Atlas stopped buying their drives from KATO. These were very good. If their in good shape, they are as good as any you can get today. The motor current draw will be higher, but they can still be modified easily to DCC, if desired. 
I am not sure Lionel ever made their HO stuff. Most of it came from Bachmann. That was when General Mills owned them. The real early stuff had band drives. Those may be have been made by them? If the units are from Bachmann, then they may have the same idler gear cracking problem. If not, they I'll be similar to the Life Like engine. Should be good for small trains.


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## kix662003 (Mar 8, 2013)

I think that explains why I don't see a lot of Lionel at shows! Thanks for the history. I posted a thread in the HO section today about the two engines I bought. One is a mystery right now. The new Athearn UP F7A shell with dual headlights fit perfectly on the Bachmann chassis, and runs super. I had some UP cars and caboose, but not a working engine. I'll look around for some ATH34006 horns to fill the holes in the roof and it will be perfect. Thanks for all your help along the way!


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## ggnlars (Aug 6, 2013)

The horns can be found on e-bay. The cost on the bay will be higher than at their store if they are a retail concern. I find it best to check their online price. It is usually the cheapest.


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## kix662003 (Mar 8, 2013)

ggnlars said:


> The horns can be found on e-bay. The cost on the bay will be higher than at their store if they are a retail concern. I find it best to check their online price. It is usually the cheapest.


You're right... six for under $5 direct from Atlas. I changed the horn/hook couplers to Kadee No. 5 today, and it pulls pretty well. I doesn't like the weighted cleaning car, but pulled all the UP and Pacific boxcars okay. I'm really happy to have another engine running and looking new.


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