# Removing trucks



## imatt88

Hey all,

Any tips/suggestions on removing trucks from frames? 

I noticed all the passenger cars and rolling stock I have all the trucks are riveted in place..

A few of the frames I have are rusty and I'd like to remove the trucks and strip/repaint the frames

Should I drill them out...or?

Now, when you reinstall them, what size nut/washer would be recommended?

Might be kind of a silly question, but I'd like to try and save my Flyer stuff from possible damage.....:laugh:

Cheers, Ian


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## gunrunnerjohn

I normally drill them out. I have a tool that goes on the other side of the rivet and keeps it from spinning while I drill, which speeds the process. It's not a huge problem for metal frames, but plastic framed cars will melt if the rivet spins while you drill.


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## tjcruiser

I'm not quite a purist with my (Lionel) restorations ...

I drill out the rivets, and then reinstall the truck with a stainless small machine screw, some fiber washers, and a stainless/fiber-insert locknut. I trim the screw length to size, so there's no messy excess. Tighten the locknut to allow the truck to turn without too much slop.

TJ


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## imatt88

Thanks guys,

Yeah, I really don't want to have to mess with rivets again.

Screws, washers and small nuts work for me..

Cheers, Ian


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## gunrunnerjohn

I put rivets back in, but I have a tool that makes it very easy. 

I have this kit, very handy for a lot of jobs.


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## tjcruiser

John,

When you rivet a truck back on, is there an art to getting the rivet snug enough so that the truck isn't too sloppy, but not so snug that the truck binds? Or is that somehow built into the length of the rivet?

TJ


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## flyernut

tjcruiser said:


> John,
> 
> When you rivet a truck back on, is there an art to getting the rivet snug enough so that the truck isn't too sloppy, but not so snug that the truck binds? Or is that somehow built into the length of the rivet?
> 
> TJ


There's different length shoulders on the rivets. You get the correct rivet for the job, and you're good to go.


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## gunrunnerjohn

tjcruiser said:


> John,
> 
> When you rivet a truck back on, is there an art to getting the rivet snug enough so that the truck isn't too sloppy, but not so snug that the truck binds? Or is that somehow built into the length of the rivet?
> 
> TJ





flyernut said:


> There's different length shoulders on the rivets. You get the correct rivet for the job, and you're good to go.


Actually, there is a trick, even if you have the correct rivets. With my rivet tool, I just do it incrementally, it takes a few "hits" to get it snug, when I get close, I just use lighter "hits" until I have it right. I like the trucks with very little wobble, and I frequently tighten the trucks on existing cars that are too loose from the factory.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

grj -- I too have that tool set. I haven't used it much and never used it yet for attaching truck rivets. Someday that opportunity will arrive and I wish to be prepared when it does. When you say "hit it" are you referring to a hammer? My set uses a spring loaded punch which I thought was to eliminate the need for using a hammer.


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## tjcruiser

Thanks for the rivet / truck info, guys ... much appreciated.

TJ


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## raleets

I've taken to using pop rivets to attach my hat on windy days.  
Bob


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## flyernut

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Actually, there is a trick, even if you have the correct rivets. With my rivet tool, I just do it incrementally, it takes a few "hits" to get it snug, when I get close, I just use lighter "hits" until I have it right. I like the trucks with very little wobble, and I frequently tighten the trucks on existing cars that are too loose from the factory.


With the correct rivet with the correct shoulder length on it, I've found that no matter how hard or how many times you smack that critter, it's not going to tighten up the assembly.The truck rests on the shoulder end, so there's actually no way to make it tight. Maybe Lionel is different?


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## daveh219

I've tried rivets and nuts and bolts. N & P are much easier and adjustable...food for thought


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Sorry. but my linguistics are rusty -- N & P ??


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## tjcruiser

I think he meant N & B ... "nuts and bolts" are easier and adjustable (over rivets).

I use nylon-insert locknuts, which can be adjusted for the right amount of pivot gap.

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> grj -- I too have that tool set. I haven't used it much and never used it yet for attaching truck rivets. Someday that opportunity will arrive and I wish to be prepared when it does. When you say "hit it" are you referring to a hammer? My set uses a spring loaded punch which I thought was to eliminate the need for using a hammer.


I somehow missed this when you posted it, here's the "late" answer.

I'm talking about cranking the tension lower on the spring loaded punch (the big one) and "hammering" it more lightly than full bore. I usually start them with max power until I get close.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

So you have to repeatedly "set" the rivets until it gets to the point where you find it crimped properly for height and movement? I found this out when replacing a link on the front of a tender once. It seemed to take several "shots" with the spring-loaded punch until it was crimped enough to stay in place. I can see why a bench mounted press would be more beneficial to set/crimp rivets -- one yank on the long handle and you're there.


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## gunrunnerjohn

Well, the issue you have with the bench press is if you adjust it wrong, you have it too tight, and there's no loosening possible. That's why I like this tool, I can "zero in" on the correct crimp.


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