# Putty for postwar bodywork?



## ErnestHouse (Sep 6, 2015)

My postwar C&O 225 diesel suffered a break (ok I did it but I was 10 years old) and has a 3/4" gap across the front. I am attempting a repair. What kind of putty do you recommend for that era plastic?

http://marketplace-images.collector...4e32-20150507-070348-C1-Trainz-3755169-00.jpg


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

*Not Putty but JBWeld*

There are a few of us in the "0" gauge realm, that have done repairs and restorations, and most of us use JBWeld for body work. It can fix a multitude of SINS with being able to repair broken parts, missing marker lights on steamers, etc. There is the normal longer drying type, and there is also a quick drying type. I haven't used the Quick stuff to know how long or how short a time you have to work with it. 

You can do a search on here and hopefully find some posts about repairing broken shells, on some Prewar stuff.......courtesy of "T-Man, the King of Epoxy". T-Man had a 1668 Prewar shell that was missing about a 2 to 2 1/2 chunk on both sides missing. He wound up making a plaster mold from a good shell, and then created two new pieces, and sculpted them into the existing shell, and made a good recovery of a "Junk" shell. Just check a few posts in the search feature and see if there are some hints on fixing your broken shell. It's not really that hard. I managed to repair similar breaks on my 211 Alco, that the bottom of the nose piece was cracked on one, and a piece was missing on the other. You would have to look real close, to tell if it was ever broken, and I think it came out great.


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## ErnestHouse (Sep 6, 2015)

Thanks Teledoc. I had done some searching but didn't have the right terms. I had to laugh when I Googled "Lionel 225 Diesel", quite a few had broken nose pieces. LOL


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Yeah, pick any one of the Alcos, with the front coupler, and I would say a lot have damaged fronts. If I'm not mistaken, Lionel did make a repair kit of sorts, that reinforced the fronts. The JBWeld can be sanded, or even filed to get the right contour. You just have to experiment a little.


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## ErnestHouse (Sep 6, 2015)

I found those threads searching on "Repair shells". Here's the one you mentioned with the broken sides. Amazing: http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=12936&highlight=shell+epoxy


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

That's why T-man gets the King of Epoxy crown. You will soon find out that JBWeld is your best friend.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I use the JB-Quik all the time, it's workable within an hour, though I recommend you wait a bit longer. JB-Weld takes a lot longer to dry, I leave it for 24 hours before tinkering with it.

JB-Weld is stronger than JB-Quik, so if strength is needed, it's the better choice.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

If it's a non-structural crack, you can use green or white Squadron putty. Easily workable, can be sanded, sculpted, painted, and will adhere to all plastics and surface textures.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Ive used plumbers epoxy with good results . Its a tube of puddy that when mixed formes an epoxy. It hardens like steel , you can sand paint and mold it.


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

sjm, What's it gonna take to get you to jump on the JBWeld bandwagon???????LOL


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

J b weld makes it too. They call it water weld. That always confused me here. As j b weld is a brand they make tons of different epoxys. I thought this was the stuff everyone was talking about when they said j b weld. I said I got that in my plumbing box. Little did I know it was a different epoxy that everyone else was using


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## ErnestHouse (Sep 6, 2015)

I picked up the JB WELD Water Epoxy which is a putty. Set time 25 mins. Cure in 60. I used a plastic N-scale girder I bent with a heat gun to span the 3/4" gap on in the nose. I liked the consistency of the putty and ability to build it up and shape it with my fingers. We'll see how it goes.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Thats what I use too. You can sand it smooth. You can also scribe stuff into it before it dries. It will work out good


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Yay!!!!! Another convert to JBWeld products. It basically comes down to the consistency of the type you use, for shaping or molding, & the cure time. 

Ernesthouse, You can use small files, sandpaper, Xacto knives, to get it into the original contour for a repaint, when you are done. The end product will probably be stronger than the rest of it. Plenty of great guys with good tips on this forum, which makes it fun being here.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Did I hear Epoxy? I found the nose repair thread. To make a mold you do need a good shell. The smaller area you make the easier it is to remove and not break it. If you paint the mold with acrylic paint some of it will transfer. Give it a try.


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## ErnestHouse (Sep 6, 2015)

Ok, ummmmm, it's been 4 hours and the thick parts (3/16) are still soft and the rest is still tacky. That sound right for the putty? I was expecting 1 hour.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I never used the putty. I prefer the 12 hour cure for strength.


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

I think someone is getting impatient!!!!! LOL. You should give it a good 24 hours, and then recheck it. I get the same way, and just want to continue the repair, before it is ready.


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## ErnestHouse (Sep 6, 2015)

After 12 hours, it was still soft. I suspect the end of the putty roll didn't have enough hardener. The instructions say to knead it thoroughly. So I removed it and started anew. I wanted a second go at it anyway as I'm waiting for a part to repair my Dremel.

The putty definitely has a grey inside and white outside. It took a lot of kneading with a metal instrument to get it mixed. I had to move fast as it was obviously hardening much faster and I wanted to sculpt a chin on the left and right sides. After an hour, it's already hardened. FWIW


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Ernesthouse... You can get your photos to show up in your post by going to the "edit" function, choose the advanced option. Look up top on the toolbar and you will see an icon that looks like a paperclip. Click on that, and it drops a menu, and click "insert all". That will show the photos directly in the post, and viewers don't have to click on each attachment to view it.


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## ErnestHouse (Sep 6, 2015)

The putty is rough. So is there a topcoat or something that will give me a smooth finish like spackle does for sheetrock?? Or is that what the Epoxy does?


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

*Finishing the repair*

The cured epoxy does in fact feel grainy and rough after it is cured. You should be able to work in the detail of the nose with different tools and different grits of sandpaper. It takes a little bit of work, but can come out very good. 

I use Xacto knives, or "box cutter razor knives" and slowly carve away any excess, to try and get close to the shape needed. If you have a small hobby type file, you can also use that, to try to contour the shape. If you don't have one, a nail file would be a good substitute, but I would get one for just Hobby purposes. You can also use emery boards, that are used for fingernails, and use those. Once it is very close to the way you need it, you can use a fine grit sandpaper, to smooth it out. Sometimes you need to think "outside the box" of what can I use to get the results I need. 

Once you get it to the point of refinishing it, I would give the repaired area a quick shot of Clear Acrylic paint, to seal the pores of the putty. Then find a paint that is as close as you can get to paint the repair, or mask off the area, and paint it a contrasting color (Yellow).

It's just a slow process, and you need to take your time, and not rush it.:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## ErnestHouse (Sep 6, 2015)

Thanks Teledoc. It was after taking a hobby file to it that it seemed like maybe there was a better way. This T-Man repair with epoxy looks like a nice finish from the get go:
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=6979&highlight=repair+broken+shell


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

I see that you are using the search function rather well, and finding other helpful tips. The kind of Joke here is that T-Man is the King of Epoxy. I think you are starting to realize that something broken can sometimes be fixed, with just some guidance and a thought of how do I fix this. It's fun resurrecting other people's cast-offs, or our own broken items for that matter. It just may take a little time, and can't be rushed. 

Another member, TJcruiser, who has done quite a few restorations of Prewar locos that have turned out excellent. It's all his fault that I have wandered into the Prewar 0 gauge, after seeing what he has accomplished. He repaired a Prewar 1688E shell that had broken steps, by using a piece of "hotel key card" and epoxy, and you would be amazed how good it turned out. 

The 0 gauge group here are always glad to help with tips, or ideas. You usually wind up learning something new every time you log on. There is just too much to find, and not enough time to read everything of interest. Keep searching, and ask anything you don't understand, and you will get the answers you need. 

You found the "paperclip" for the photos, I see.

Jerry (teledoc)


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

One reason I use JB-Weld or the companion JQ-Quik is that it does harden very smooth, if it's already the correct shape, you're done. 

Another trick I use with JB-Weld, when I want to contain it to a certain space, I build a fence using Scotch tape. The JB-Weld doesn't stick to the glue side of the tape, so I can fill a gap and then peel the tape off after the JB-Weld sets.


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## ErnestHouse (Sep 6, 2015)

I think next one I am going to use JBQuick. I don't have the skill to shape the putty. 

QUESTION: I have regular formula JB Weld in my glue box. Would putting a topcoat of it over the putty work?

ALSO: I had a hard time cleaning my metal tools. What do you guys use to apply and shape JBQuiK or JBWeld?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You should be able to put it over the putty.

I use either toothpicks or a flat wooden stick as a rule. I'll also use a screwdriver if it works, but I wipe it off before anything hardens. FWIW, you can scrape JB-Weld off screwdrivers without too much trouble.


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Go to a craft store (AC Moore/Michaels/Hobby Lobby) and get Popsicle craft sticks, and use them kind of like a putty knife. Just cut off the rounded end, so that one end is squared off. Another option is if you can find wooden coffee stirrers. John's tip with scotchtape is also a good idea. It depends on the shape and extent of what you need to mold.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

If you really want to do detailed work, a set of wax carving tools is a godsend.


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## ErnestHouse (Sep 6, 2015)

Ugh… another run to Hobby Lobby for clear acrylic. I'm going to add a topcoat of Epoxy unless there's another idea. The putty gets bubbles and folds that open up and reveal during sanding. Or maybe I am being a perfectionist?


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Look at this as your learning process, and don't give up on it. Work on it, until you are fully satisfied with the end result. All of us make mistakes and learn lessons along the way. I know you have check other posts about repairing damaged shells, and what has worked for others. I have done it, and still go back to earlier posts, to see if I missed something, or where someone has added their hints or comments with new ideas. 

With the group we have here, just about anything related to 0 gauge is covered to some extent, and volumes of good info. This has to be the best forum going, no matter what gauge you work with.

And when you are finished & satisfied, we want photos!!!!!!!!


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I use body scratch putty for the fine imperfections. After the first pour I use a drum sander. I also like to use nail files.


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## ErnestHouse (Sep 6, 2015)

Is Body Scratch putty a Hobby store, Home Supply or Auto item?

EDIT: Nevermind. Looks like its Bondo from the Auto store.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Wall mart or Auto Parts. Wallmart is under 5 bucks a decent product just like wood filler except it is for metal/plastic and finer. Auto stores carry better grades but you don't need it. Just rub it on. Squeeze the tube when capped to mix it.










Congrats to you! I don't think I have ever seen someone else do it.:appl:

This repair takes time and just take it one step at a time.


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## ErnestHouse (Sep 6, 2015)

That looks interesting. As a woodworker, had that come up before about a substitute for wood filler, I might have started with it. I had some time this morning and put on a coat of JB Weld regular formula. I wanted to paint ir on so I made an applicator out of a strip of plastic from the packaging of a recent purchase. it was very thin and flexed nicely…. We'll see.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Getting better with each step!


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## ErnestHouse (Sep 6, 2015)

So after 18 hours, the JB Weld feels like rubber. Shouldn't it be hard as a rock?


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## ErnestHouse (Sep 6, 2015)

Most photographed Alco nose in history… I decided not to attempt color matching. I noticed most of the paint jobs on these diesels had a the mouth colored the same as the trucks so I went with satin black. Pondered putting yellow on the raised lines on the nose but decided I am not good enough for that.


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## ErnestHouse (Sep 6, 2015)

A little thing I never liked was that the cab of this diesel was open yet empty inside… sometimes revealing a stray wire or motor. Using some construction paper, I made a cab wall and floor that helps contain the light. I can see a painted engineer in the future… when my painting skills improve….LOL


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## carinofranco (Aug 1, 2012)

I use JB weld for repairs and for casting parts. I typically use my grandkid's play clay or epoxy putty for making a mold from an existing part. I don't have a good release agent, so,I end up scraping and picking out the clay. any suggestions for a release agent I might find around the house?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

*Finished product results!!!*

:appl::appl::appl: Ernest, Congratulations on a "Tough Battle", but you WON. I realize that you were frustrated during the process, but in one of my earlier posts, you can chalk this one up as a learning experience. I think you will have to admit that we wanted to see you get through the restoration, and I think it turned out great. That was just the first of probably more. You also found out how many types of JBWeld are available, and you have to find the one that best suits your needs. They all take getting used to as far as drying time, how hard it sets up, and how to finish shaping it.

On a similar note, sometimes a part will crack, but basically not lose any material, which can be "Super Glued" back together. If you find that you have something that can be repaired just by super glue (CA glue), the one that I swear by is by Loctite. They have two that I use for a multitude of sins, which is the typical liquid form, and they also make one that is Gel. The liquid type will "wick" into the mating pieces, where the gel type is kind of thick, and needs to be coaxed into the break by separating the pieces, and then applying it to one surface, and then putting the broken pieces together. I have had great success with Loctite, compared to the "Crazy Glue", that most people use. For me, it's LOCTITE all the way.

Jerry


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

It looks great! :thumbsup:


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

For really strong bonds, I use Loctite 380 "BlackMax". It's super strong but super expensive. There are some jobs that it just excels at. I mostly use Loctite 416 gel, it's my "go-to" everyday adhesive.


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