# Glueing Track



## beepjuice (Sep 17, 2014)

What's best to use to glue track to Woodland Scenic's foam risers?
I've never Glued track before (track nails) so I need some thoughts.
Thanks


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

My favorite adhesive for gluing track and roadbed is DAP Alex Plus siliconized latex caulk.
https://www.menards.com/main/paint/...490-c-7935.htm?tid=5725558218947180922&ipos=1

It doesn't take much, just a bit here and there. It comes in different colors, but my personal favorite is the clear variety. It goes down white, but dries clear. The track can be removed with a putty knife if needed. You will need a caulking gun as well, but they only cost a few dollars.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

I will second the DAP Alex Plus with silicone, and do ONLY GET THE CLEAR stuff. It's more rubbery and easier to take apart later.

When you put it on the roadbed surface, just a light skiff, not so much that it wells up to the tops of the ties. Use a few track nails driven halfway into the roadbed to hold curves, then remove. Also, when you go to use it, you'll see that it is white...at first...and opaque. Don't let that fool you. It will dry slightly yellow, but clear.

If you need to, or just would rather, get the cheapest acrylic latex caulking you can find and use that the same way...a light coat, place the tracks, use full soda tins or track nails to keep it down and oriented as you wish. Dries inside of three hours in 55% humidity or less.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

I've been using DAP Dynaflex 230, mainly because it comes in a handy 5.5 oz tube, and you just don't need much. I glue the milled Homasote roadbed down with it, and then the central valley ties down to the roadbed. The rail is then glued with Pliobond contact cement, usually in 6' sections (joiner soldered between 2 3' rails. Track connections are hidden by using a PC tie.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Regardless of the adhesive you use, the key factor is
to use very little of it. Use a screw to stabilize a
serious curve problem, but otherwise the track will
stay where you put it with just a dab here and another
there.

I used Elmer's white glue. When you change your
mind about your track plan, it can be washed off
the track. The foam roadbed, tho, may be damaged.

Don


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

elmers for every thing hahahahahaha


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Elmer"s is not good for everything*



sid said:


> elmers for every thing hahahahahaha


 
Sorry sid, but I disagree with you on this one. 
Elmer's white glue has many model railroad uses. But, it's not good for gluing non-porous material, like plastic. The ties on nearly all model railroad track are plastic. While it is perfectly possible to glue track down with white glue, the bond to the bottom of the plastic ties is quite weak. 
Latex caulk would hold plastic to Styrofoam better than Elmer's glue. 

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Weak Styrofoam risers*



beepjuice said:


> What's best to use to glue track to Woodland Scenic's foam risers?
> I've never Glued track before (track nails) so I need some thoughts.
> Thanks


 beepjuice;

I agree with the others who recommend using caulk for the adhesive. However, I also recommend putting some roadbed material between the Styrofoam risers and the track. Styrofoam is not particularly strong, at least the white beadboard type, which is what I'm guessing Woodland Scenic's risers are made of. If they are extruded foam, which is usually pink, blue, or green, that's much stronger than white beadboard, though I'd still use roadbed. (Note: If you are using a track with roadbed already attached, like Bachmann EZ-track, or Kato Unitrack then this may not apply.)
The idea here is to keep the track flat, and prevent it from sagging. I believe the W/S riser set is normally used with space between individual risers. If there is no support for the track over the gaps between risers, then the track will tend to sag, as a train passes over it. Over time, your track will assume a bit of a "roller coaster" profile.
There are two common roadbed materials commercially available; cork, and foam. I don't use either, but instead I cut my own roadbed from 1/8" Luan plywood.Below that, I use 1/4" Luan plywood for sub-roadbed. Since it's much stronger than either cork, or foam, it would be my first choice.
Of the remaining two, cork is a little bit more rigid than foam, so I'd go with cork. However, it would still be a good idea to use 1/4" Luan sub-roadbed between the risers and the cork.

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

traction fan said:


> Sorry sid, but I disagree with you on this one.
> Elmer's white glue has many model railroad uses. But, it's not good for gluing non-porous material, like plastic. The ties on nearly all model railroad track are plastic. While it is perfectly possible to glue track down with white glue, the bond to the bottom of the plastic ties is quite weak.
> Latex caulk would hold plastic to Styrofoam better than Elmer's glue.
> 
> Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


...and it doesn't have the 'give' that the softer caulk-like adhesives have to accommodate swings in temperature, shifting benchwork, changes in dimension when milled lumber components change dimension due to changes in ambient humidity, etc. Too rigid in comparison.


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

traction fan said:


> Sorry sid, but I disagree with you on this one.
> Elmer's white glue has many model railroad uses. But, it's not good for gluing non-porous material, like plastic. The ties on nearly all model railroad track are plastic. While it is perfectly possible to glue track down with white glue, the bond to the bottom of the plastic ties is quite weak.
> Latex caulk would hold plastic to Styrofoam better than Elmer's glue.
> 
> Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


funny every time i try an pull up plastic kato track from my layout i have to pry it up because the elmers glue stuck it down pretty darn good so it must stick to plastic. .... ill test some plastic on plastic


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

A possible "roadbed" would be 1/4" drywall. It bends (for elevation changes) but would need to be cut for curves. It has great sound deadening qualities. while not good bridging gaps it certainly would work on the top of woodland scenic grades. You would need to paint it before gluing your track down, to keep it from absorbing moisture. Homasote (milled roadbed) might also be helped with a coat of paint.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

sid said:


> funny every time i try an pull up plastic kato track from my layout i have to pry it up because the elmers glue stuck it down pretty darn good so it must stick to plastic. .... ill test some plastic on plastic


What are you gluing it to? Plywood or other porous material?


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