# Lionel 224e



## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

I got this bad boy last night and am i giddy with joy! my girlfriends father gave this to me it was his fathers. i do believe it is the prewar variant but i could be wrong. it has the Baldwin disc wheels and they look sharp. the tender is cast not plastic. i put it on the track and it ran and e unit cycles. it absolutely needs a good oil job. i think this one just need a good cleaning and some oil and she'll look great.


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## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

here is a few more pics of the tender.


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Okay, where is the pile of crap you stepped in for that beauty. If the tender has the die-cast shell, you have the 2224W or 2224T tender, which is exactly what is supposed to go with the 224E. The first year of production was 1938, and would have been gunmetal with 2689W sheet metal tender. The following year, 1939, it came with die-cast 2224 tender in gunmetal, The third version was produced in Black. The first and third issue are listed C-6 condition at $125, C-7 at $165. If you had the second issue in the gunmetal, it is listed as rarity 7, with value of C-6 $500, C-7 $850. Either way you got the deal of the month award with that one. Congrats.


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## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

On the bottom of the tender it is stamped 2224w


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

That is seriously cool. A true survivor in great shape! It needs a cleaning and lubing, obviously, but it is all there and it runs!.

I am not an expert on these things: what are the two holes in the tender's coal load for, or where they drilled something in the last seventy years or so by someone else?


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I think anything with a e designation is prewar. I believe it stood for electrical e unit. The e was dropped because subsequently every train had an e unit. Its a cool looking rig, hope it cleans up well. 
Lee those holes were drilled, maybe to amplify the sound? A good lube job will get the whistle running better


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## AG216 (Sep 28, 2011)

Nice Jewel to restore.
the Baldwin Disc are very attractive drivers.

The drills on the tender are for the whistle to make it louder.

Andre.


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## Guest (Sep 28, 2015)

Very nice acquisition. You are fortunate to get your hands on one of these beauties.


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## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

I really can't wait to get this started. I popped the shell off last night but it was getting late so I stopped there. If I get home a decent time today I wanna start cleaning the shell. I was thinking of using some water and just a touch of mild dish detergent with a very soft brush to clean the dust off. Unless there may be something better I just don't want to hurt it


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

As sjm mentioned, the holes were drilled to improve the sound coming out, instead of just from the bottom opening of the frame. The "E" designation was starting to disappear in late 1938-1939, as it became obvious that all the new trains produced had an E unit. I would do exactly what you planned on doing, use warm water and soap to clean it off, and use a blow dryer (girlfriends tool....LOL), to dry it off. With the shell off, inspect everything on the internal parts, wiring, dirt, etc., and give it the good going over, before re-assembling it. The tender shell is another story, as to whether you want to leave it the way it is, or if you want to try and repaint it. I would probably leave it the way it is, and just clean it as it sits. Absolute great acquisition, and you owe your girlfriend BIG TIME!!!

Check my response on your 259E rebuild post, possible parts donors.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The cab has a flat end not a round postwar end. The box coupler is a give away.The shell may be prime with mold on the inside. Heat gun time. Remove the mold before you do any serious painting. It will look great after a cleaning..


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## 3windowc (Dec 31, 2012)

While you have it out of the shell, consider taking off the brush plate and clean the comintator on the armniture and make sure the bruches move freely. Put a couple drops of 10W-40 oil at each end of the armniture shaft once reinstalled. Also the axle shaft at the bearings, the gears and if there is an idler gear between the pinion and the wheel gears.


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## 3windowc (Dec 31, 2012)

I looked over the pictures again. In your 1st post, picture 4, the drawbar between the engine and tender looks wrong. I do not have a 224 in my collection, but never saw a drawbar attached with a screw & nut. It actually looks like an early hook style coupler from the teens some one has adapted. I think it should be one piece and close up the gap between the cab & tender


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## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

It does look like an early prewar coupler that may have to be corrected


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

I went to Olsen's Toy Train Library to check what part number they showed for the drawbar, and in the listing that shows the Loco & tender, under the "O" Prewar locos, it has the number as 224E-14B, yet when I go back to the parts side, and look for "drawbar" in the 224 series it shows up as 224E-6. Jeff Kane (TTTender) has a totally different number, but does list a drawbar, and a quick check on Brasseurs doesn't have one listed for the 224E. As 3windowc pointed out, it isn't the correct one that is on yours. You will be most likely doing a little bit of tearing it down, and would have probably cleaned up those parts, so may as well try to hunt the right one down. Olsens has their 224E-6 listed for $2.75.


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## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

Yeah I had a feeling it wasn't right one when I saw the huge gap. Brush plate will be taken off comm cleaned.


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Good idea with getting motor up to snuff, and running smoothly. From the photos you have posted, the tender looks like it has a lot of paint chipping on the one side. What are you thoughts on what you plan to do to it. Are you thinking of a repaint, or are you going to leave it as is, and just clean it up real good. It may just be what T-Man has said, that it is just mold, and not chips at all. Do exactly what he suggested, and you should be good to go.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The 2466wx tender had a mold problem, Here is the thread

Here are some drawbar pics. My 224 is prewar.


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## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

teledoc: the tender is definitely going to be most of the work on this unit. i think i may clean it up and see how it looks. most likely ill leave is as is. T-man: thanks for the clarity on the draw bar and that tender did clean up nicely. I did start to clean up the main shell. tomorrow ill do the steam chest.


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## bluecomet400 (Sep 13, 2015)

Very nice!! These are great locos--great runners. I agree--you owe you girlfriend!!


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## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

I got some work done last night. I can start the reassembly of the locomotive. I also found the drawbar and plate on the bay for 8 dollars so I'll go ahead and order that as well. Pics to come tonight


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## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

sorry for the delay but a picture as promised. i mocked everything to show you guys an idea how its going to look


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