# First layout table built:WIP



## concretepumper

*I am sure most here saw my "Box full of train stuff post" last week. Here is the little table I slapped together this weekend. I was able to lay some trial tracks and going to get some cork roadbed and start nailing down track soon. Wow a lot of work ahead! Too much fun. I am hooked big time dude! The HO Diorama accessories are endless. I was stuck on Ebay last night for hours looking at HO Train stuff. Also I am going to try and wire up all these track switches. Need too strip out some phone cord. 

Did a little reading on track soldering / wiring. Do most of you solder your track pieces? Is it necessary? Or run a feeder line and tie-in every 3 feet or so? Anybody have a good link with some how to on soldering train track? I know how to solder and have the tools!

So far all the track switching works manually. Pretty cool considering I haven't done a Train in 25 years and that was a little oval at best! Comments or criticism welcomed! 

Be sure and check this thread I will post progress pics here as our little world comes together!*


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## NIMT

What's to criticize?:thumbsup: 
Looks like your off to a ripping start! :appl:
I do put drops every 3 feet to a buss and yes I solder all my joints. 
Heat the rail joiner and rails right in the middle outside of the joint and apply a little solder to the ends of the joiner and let it wick in. Have a cloth ready and wipe the top of the rails to clean off extra stuff. After its all cooled wipe the rail joints with alcohol to remove any rosin off the rails.
If your thinking about DCC now or down the line drops and soldering are a must!
Sean


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## tjcruiser

Nice table work ... just don't light a fire in the fireplace, though! 

One tip I learned via a video that someone (wish I could give credt to who?) posted on the forum ...

When you solder your rail joint, place a wet cotton ball or two on the rails just forward and behind where you're soldering. The water will help to limit heat transmission away from your focused area, and minimize any chance of melting the plastic track ties.

Thanks for sharing,

TJ


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## sstlaure

Looks cool. I didn't solder each rail section together, but I did put power drops on every separate piece of track that I used to ensure consistent power supply


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## concretepumper

*Awesome thanks for the quick replies! :thumbsup::thumbsup: Another question!  Is the road bed cork necessary????? And best type of nails? Is there a type I can get @ Ace hardware instead of the $$  train store?? I guess I should do this before I run anymore wires or begin soldering? 

Thanks, Rick :thumbsup: *


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## tjcruiser

Hi Rick,

(Can you change your default font to something that's not BOLD?)

Cork is not mandatory, though lots of guys like it for two reasons: sound and vibration dampening, and it creates a mound that you can cover with ballast stone.

But model RR Rule #1 always applies ... it's your layout, you're the boss, and you should do whatever makes you happy!

Most hardware stores will have a small bundle of brads (tiny nails) that will mount the track to your chip board. Bring a section of track to the store to see which size and head style best fits your track (which likely has predrilled holes).

You might want to hold of on nailing everything down, though, until sometime after you've run the setup for a while, have debugged any problems, and/or find that you want to tweak some track positions.

TJ


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## sstlaure

I've used Alene's craft glue to hold everything down (cork to wood and track to cork) and only in a few spots have I had to nail the track down to hold it in position. I put glue on every 3rd tie and it seems to hold just fine.


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## NIMT

I like the cork because of the look and the sound quality.
Some people use foam as a base but if you want under table switch machines that makes it really difficult.
I don't use nails any more after a friend showed me that using latex caulking works sooooo much better and quieter too. Just spread a thin layer with putty knife and place track on top, pin in place with push pins allow to dry couple of hours then pull push pins. The major advantages of this is that if you want to chance track just putty knife it up and redo it, no more driving nails in too far and bending ties/rails, no breaking ties trying to remove nails.
Sean


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## concretepumper

Cool thanks TJ :thumbsup: The only reason I have a bad habit of *typing like that for my blind eyes. Lol. Not really blind.* Actually it seems to run really well. (Other than the plastic wheeled stock cars derailing occasionally) I am running it slow because fast seems to pull tracks apart. I guess I might nail it down and start wiring! Also I know I need a real Loco. This one is a Bachman cheapie rear wheel drive.

I'm going here right now to get supplies! My local shop. http://dynamichobbies.net/gallery/index.php


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## concretepumper

Here is a few update pics. I finally got all the roadbed glued down tonight now to nail it all down and start soldering track and running drop lines. This is cool! Like the biggest model I have ever built! All how I want to build it too! No real plan here!


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## sstlaure

Looks great.


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## NIMT

Folks he's almost got trains!
If I might give advice, Before you lay track on the cork, run a sanding block across it and look and feel for bumps and humps.
I have found that the track lays better if you do this!
If you've never put nails in track threw cork careful not to over drive the nails and bend the ties.


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## concretepumper

NIMT.COM said:


> Folks he's almost got trains!
> If I might give advice, Before you lay track on the cork, run a sanding block across it and look and feel for bumps and humps.
> I have found that the track lays better if you do this!
> If you've never put nails in track threw cork careful not to over drive the nails and bend the ties.




Excellent advice! Thanks Dude! Will DO! :thumbsup:


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## tankist

looks good. you will appreciate sound properties of cork. board on frame is is resonating (think acoustic guitar) and can get quite loud. 



NIMT.COM said:


> If you've never put nails in track threw cork careful not to over drive the nails and bend the ties.


that's why its better to glue the track web down to cork.risk free, another layer of sound insulation (adhecive caulk does not transmit sound well) and it will look much better too - those nail heads sticking out really can ruin the picture


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## sstlaure

I used a pin vise and a tiny (I believe #60) drill bit to pre-drill the holes for the nails to go through the cork and into the wood. I found that you have to excert a fair amount of force to push the nails into the wood (like particle board) and by pre-drilling a little undersized hole you can still get the nail retention you need, but without risk of over-driving the nails accidentally.


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## concretepumper

tankist said:


> looks good. you will appreciate sound properties of cork. board on frame is is resonating (think acoustic guitar) and can get quite loud.
> 
> 
> that's why its better to glue the track web down to cork.risk free, another layer of sound insulation (adhecive caulk does not transmit sound well) and it will look much better too - those nail heads sticking out really can ruin the picture


Hmmmmmm...............Any chance you could post a pic of your glued down track? What type of glue? 

I set a few nails last night with a nail set and had good luck with no pre drilling.


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## NIMT

> that's why its better to glue the track web down to cork.risk free, another layer of sound insulation (adhecive caulk does not transmit sound well) and it will look much better too - those nail heads sticking out really can ruin the picture


I don't nail my track down anymore either.
I use clear Latex caulking, thin layer of it and set track down pin with thumb tacks wait about an hour, pull thumb tacks, done
Glued down track before tie touch up.







After Ballast


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## tankist

concretepumper said:


> Hmmmmmm...............Any chance you could post a pic of your glued down track? What type of glue?
> 
> I set a few nails last night with a nail set and had good luck with no pre drilling.


DAP adhesive caulk. i use flex track and want the track to be attached along its entire length to keep it's form. nails will only hold it in several points.

pictures? sure. these go some time back however


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## concretepumper

Here is an update on my progress guys!


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## gunrunnerjohn

Nice bridges.  It looks like you're serious, doing all the sculpting in particle-board! Did you consider foam?


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## concretepumper

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Nice bridges.  It looks like you're serious, doing all the sculpting in particle-board! Did you consider foam?


No not at first. Being in Concrete construction I have a habit of "over building" things! I'm the kinda guy who snaps lug nuts off making sure they are tight! I may try some foam later on some landscape.


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## gunrunnerjohn

Well, I guess it's easier than if you did the table in concrete!


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## concretepumper

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Well, I guess it's easier than if you did the table in concrete!


Funny you say that! I was thinking of paving my roads with a thin slurry mix.


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## gunrunnerjohn

concretepumper said:


> Funny you say that! I was thinking of paving my roads with a thin slurry mix.


 Do you have the optional jackhammer for road work on your layout?


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## Big Ed

Looking good.:thumbsup:
Looks like you got bitten by the Train Bug.


How are you going to make the river?
Take the rail and bridges apart?

If you don't use the fireplace you can put shelves in there to store some trains.

Mount a skirt around the base and you can get more storage under the table.
Give the wife (girlfriend) something to do, while your moving the hutch out of the way, to expand the RR around the corner.


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## tjcruiser

CP,

Looks nice ... good work on those truss bridges. You might consider nixxing the cork ballast in way of the truss bridges and building a wood bottom / base to the bridges (connecting the left/right trusses) that is slightly raised to touch the bottom of the track itself (without cork).

Cheers,

TJ


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## Chiefmcfuz

Looking great!


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## concretepumper

tjcruiser said:


> CP,
> 
> Looks nice ... good work on those truss bridges. You might consider nixxing the cork ballast in way of the truss bridges and building a wood bottom / base to the bridges (connecting the left/right trusses) that is slightly raised to touch the bottom of the track itself (without cork).
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> TJ


Thanks! I think I might do that! I Still need to figure out some kinda H20. Maybe it will be a dry sand creek. I might use 3/8' pea gravel for rip-rap on the shore.


Here's a few more pics from tonight. I almost finished the road bridge. Lights installed on the bridge. Salvaged a few of the buildings and used some Matchbox RWR's to help brain storm what my town needs. I figure my Concrete batch plant is close to scale so I will use it on the layout. Still needs finished and painted. Scratchbuilt from styrene and staples for rollers and rubber bands for conveyor belt's and a lot of gluing my fingers together! Lol.























































.

I think I might rebuild the loading dock with balsa wood since some of the legs are broken.


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## tjcruiser

CP,

Oh ... I didn't realize from your earlier photos that the auto bridge was going to have a 2nd truss tier. I like that. Unique. Really catches one's eye.

Nice progress!

TJ


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## concretepumper

tjcruiser said:


> CP,
> 
> Oh ... I didn't realize from your earlier photos that the auto bridge was going to have a 2nd truss tier. I like that. Unique. Really catches one's eye.
> 
> Nice progress!
> 
> TJ


Thanks TJ! I didn't plan it to be so big either. It just kept growing.Lol.


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## IlliniViking

Looking really good CP. Keep up the good work and keep us updated.


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## concretepumper

Ok heres an update. I raised the back section of track to add some depth to my rookie flat layout. Lol. I know kinda an after thought but It works good. I already want to rip it apart and start over now that I have learned more about bench work. (Thanks Youtube!) Not sure what % the grade is but my P.O.S. Loco goes up no problem. Should be fun keeping a train on the rails after the downhill strait into the turn!
Also started a Maint. Building for the Ready Mix Co.


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## tankist

grade looks somewhat doable, but you should check it with loco pulling cars. you may find it can't pull as much as you would like


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## concretepumper

tankist said:


> grade looks somewhat doable, but you should check it with loco pulling cars. you may find it can't pull as much as you would like


It will pull 3 or 4 cars but like I said my only loco is a P.O.S. Old Tyco seems to be 2 Wheel drive only. A lot of spinning. I can't wait to get a High end DCC loco. Gotta sell some HotWheels before I spend more $$ on Hobby's per Mrs.CP.


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## inxy

Like you idea of routing out the river in the particle board. I have an old Lionel bridge just looking for a place in my layout. Now I have to buy a router and rout out a small lake. Nice river.

B


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## NIMT

inxy,
Better to use a saber or scroll saw and cut threw all the ply or wafer and put another piece under it, easier.:thumbsup:
concretepumper, 
Next time set your blade at an angle to give it a shoreline feel. and you know there will be a next time!!


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## concretepumper

inxy said:


> Like you idea of routing out the river in the particle board. I have an old Lionel bridge just looking for a place in my layout. Now I have to buy a router and rout out a small lake. Nice river.
> 
> B


Jig saw. I don't own a router. 



NIMT.COM said:


> inxy,
> Better to use a saber or scroll saw and cut threw all the ply or wafer and put another piece under it, easier.:thumbsup:
> concretepumper,
> Next time set your blade at an angle to give it a shoreline feel. and you know there will be a next time!!



Yea I thought the same thing after I put the bottom back in. Oh well. Too many ideas at this point it is getting jumbled up in my head. I almost want to start over with out a flat top surface and do the benchwork style of building using different elevations and real bridges and such!


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## NIMT

concretepumper,
Does this look kind of like yours?









This is more of what you want huh?

































I can teach you how it's really easy!!


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## concretepumper

Ok so its been a while since I posted any update pics so here is a few with the upper level to nowhere! Lol. I plan on using Sean's (NIMT.COM) Mountain building method using metal screen and drywall mud to close this upper deck off and some sort of tunnel Entrancs/exit?? I like The Mojave Desert and that is kinda what I am shooting for on my terrain. This will be a plateau maybe with some sort of Quarry operations loading. Maybe rock and sand to deliver to the Ready Mix plant on the other end of town! 















































The above pic is the end of town where the Ready Mix plant will be. I scratch-built this from styrene modeled after the plant I used to run @ Ft.Irwin Just north of Barstow Ca. Its still not quite done but soon I will get it finished and painted so it can go into its place. This is one of my favorite builds so far!


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## gunrunnerjohn

Love the concrete plant, that's really nice work! :thumbsup:

Your second level is giving me some ideas for my platform. I think I want it a bit more open, but I do want multiple levels. I'd love the helix, but that might be a bit much.


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## Xnats

Wow that came out nice. Make sure you post pics, when it is all painted.


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## NIMT

Looking good! I love the batch plant! :thumbsup:


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## NIMT

What kind of tunnel portals are you wanting?
Stock, Store bought stacked stone or Homemade blasted rock?
(Hint: Go with the rock!!!!)
I can show you both in a how too if you need it?


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## concretepumper

Xnats said:


> Wow that came out nice. Make sure you post pics, when it is all painted.


Thank you!  
I will keep you guys posted here! 




NIMT.COM said:


> What kind of tunnel portals are you wanting?
> Stock, Store bought stacked stone or Homemade blasted rock?
> (Hint: Go with the rock!!!!)
> I can show you both in a how too if you need it?



For sure something natural looking. Store bought is too easy! Gimme some ideas bud! 
As a former certified (MSHA) Miner in a rock & sand operation I want natural looking terrain. I am sure you have all seen Cajalco Ghost Town just north of Barstow CA. I am thinking of that area for Modeling the terrain as far as colors etc.. Might be challenging as far as all the different colors in the ground there! with only scattered sagebrush and random Cacti and Joshua trees. I am not trying to represent Cajalo Silver Mining from 100 years ago (maybe next layout) I just spent a few years there and love that part of the Mojave Desert!


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## NIMT

I'm on it boss!:thumbsup:
Should have something whipped out later today for inspection!


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## Big Ed

I think soon you are going to need a bigger room for the layout.
Looking good.:thumbsup:


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## concretepumper

The wife says I can't build out left or right so I am going up :thumbsup: and I am thinking about a staging yard underneath :thumbsdown: too!  I wonder how high it could go????


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## NIMT

I've been working on the how to tunnel and portal step by step should be done by tomorrow afternoon. 
Height of your RR just depends on the ceiling height, But then again there is always the attic? If you get it tall enough you can run it around the room on the wall! 
Can your wife shoot??? Duck!! Better yet run! Weave back and forth as you run!!!:laugh:
Just remember to keep your grades reasonable 1" rise per 3' run is the rule. that gives you a 2.75% grade. If you go up or down too quick you will have problems pulling any loads up or down it!


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## concretepumper

NIMT.COM said:


> I've been working on the how to tunnel and portal step by step should be done by tomorrow afternoon.
> Height of your RR just depends on the ceiling height, But then again there is always the attic? If you get it tall enough you can run it around the room on the wall!
> Can your wife shoot??? Duck!! Better yet run! Weave back and forth as you run!!!:laugh:
> Just remember to keep your grades reasonable 1" rise per 3' run is the rule. that gives you a 2.75% grade. If you go up or down too quick you will have problems pulling any loads up or down it!


Right on! No rush. I stil need to pick up screen & mud. 

Yea she can shoot! Pretty good too! I taught her when we were teenagers.

Thanks for the simple grade calculation. :thumbsup:


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## NIMT

Was I being condescending toward you?
Sorry, was not trying to.


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## concretepumper

NIMT.COM said:


> Was I being condescending toward you?
> Sorry, was not trying to.



No way Dude!  I really like the simple formula. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## BraytoChicago

Man, your layout looks awesome! Is that in your living room? Kudos.


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## Canadian Car Knocker

BraytoChicago said:


> Man, your layout looks awesome! Is that in your living room? Kudos.


He gets the living room and I get a small corner in the basement. Oh the things I do to keep my garage mine. lol Anyway wicked lay out. Keep the pics coming!


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## concretepumper

BraytoChicago said:


> Man, your layout looks awesome! Is that in your living room? Kudos.


Thanks Dude!  Yea this is so called Living room. It has turned into our home office with a big Train Lay out blocking the stupid Gas fire place. Some visitors look at my wife like she is nuts! I think its great. My desk is right next to the lay out with the controls just to my left. The Amtrack is rolling around right now. I try and run it daily to keep this old fashioned brass track clean. A few days without any action and the track seems to be slow for a while. Also It seems to help if I clean Loco wheels often! 




Canadian Car Knocker said:


> He gets the living room and I get a small corner in the basement. Oh the things I do to keep my garage mine. lol Anyway wicked lay out. Keep the pics coming!



Thanks to you too Dude! :thumbsup: Oh man I wish we had basements here in Southern California! Most homes here are slab on grade. What a cool hide out a basement must be. My layout would not survive in our garage. My garage is a "Catch all" for crap that doesn't have a place in the house. Not to mention the painting and welding etc. that happens in there sometimes. 


Heres a few pics with todays work finished. Not much just the upper level track laid and soldered. I left a gap in the front upper end so I had somewhere to park a few things ready to roll. (Now I see the need for a "yard"). I gave a try at gluing the track instead of nailing like I have this layout. I used thinned out Craft glue. Mainly I was curious if there was a sound difference. It does seem to hold down flex track solid. This was my first try using flex. I found a few pieces in the scrap box and cleaned em' up a little. Hopefully I can re-rail this whole layout in flex before long. I like the idea of 36" runs. :thumbsup: .............................CP


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## gunrunnerjohn

Some of those grades in the background look pretty steep, do you have any issues with a long train going up those?


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## concretepumper

Hey John, Only in one spot I have a hard time but I have a plan to ease the climb up! :thumbsup:


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## gunrunnerjohn

Maybe it's just the angle the picture is taken at.


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## Reckers

Great layout! I'm really impressed with how much work you accomplished and how good it looks.


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## gunrunnerjohn

Best of all, he already has trains running on it!


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## concretepumper

Ok an update for friday 2 -11-11. I am stuck unsure how to do the tunnel entrances. I know Sean is working on something for us. Under $20 for the supplies. Drywall mud and aluminum screen from WalMart. Hopefully I will start brushing some mud on tonight as per Seans expert advice! http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=6374
Thanks Dude! :thumbsup:


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## concretepumper

And a few more for pics for Friday night. I thinned the mud just a little and used a paintbrush to apply it. A little time consuming! I like it. I dont want to rush this build. One or two more coats should be good and stiff.


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## NIMT

For a NIMT scenery school virgin you hit it out of the park buddy! :appl:
You even got full wife approval!  She loved it!
I'm glad my crazy method is working for you!:sly:
Now I just need to ship you out the materials for the next stage.
Give me a day or two for the next how to segment!
Oh and it does get easier and faster the more you do it! I'm so looking forward to seeing it finished!
Now for a shame less self promoting plug!
And He learned it all right here folks!!!
All for the low low price of a click! 
Simple track laying and Mountain building
Tunnel and Rock portals


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## TONOFFUN80

I now know how i'm going to make my mountains


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## NIMT

WOW it worked! :sly:
I thought I was just getting lucky?


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## gunrunnerjohn

CP, he's finished it: http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=6439


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## concretepumper

Ok Saturday night. 2-12-11. As per Seans advice I picked up quick set drywall compound and it worked much better than the joint compound in a bucket. Mix it wet and brush it on. This is 5 or 6 coats across the whole thing. Thanks again for the help on the Tunnel Portals Dude! Everybody that see's it says WOW! I kinda like it too! 
I have access from the rear and side for any derails or problems. I didn't plan any sort of mountains in this when I started. I was thinking Flat Desert would be easy. But The Mojave Desert isn't flat. Now to try and Color it to look like the Calico Mountains in Barstow Ca. Even though it kinda looks like some of the rock formations along the Railroad through the Cajon Pass Interstate 15 between San Bernadino and Victorville for anyone familiar with that area.


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## concretepumper

NIMT.COM said:


> For a NIMT scenery school virgin you hit it out of the park buddy! :appl:
> You even got full wife approval!  She loved it!
> I'm glad my crazy method is working for you!:sly:
> Now I just need to ship you out the materials for the next stage.
> Give me a day or two for the next how to segment!
> Oh and it does get easier and faster the more you do it! I'm so looking forward to seeing it finished!
> Now for a shame less self promoting plug!
> And He learned it all right here folks!!!
> All for the low low price of a click!
> Simple track laying and Mountain building
> Tunnel and Rock portals



Thank You!  And thank the Wife also. 

:dunno: Next step :dunno:
Whats that???????


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## NIMT

I'm Sooooooo Impressed!:thumbsup:
Was it worth it?
From my end it looks like you got right in to it!!
Oh and this same method will work to make your river pop too!
Next step... HUMMM...Oh yea thats right you don't want white...
You can paint it with a light color FLAT house latex paint the cheaper the better. It's just a base coat and you wont see much of it when your done.
I hit up Home depot or other paint stores and look in there OOPS / Messed up mix, paint section. I've gotten over 50 gallons and I only it costs about $5 per gallon and $1 per quart and $.50 per pint. Just look for flat paints, and try to stay in the earth tones, hot pink has little use in nature scenes.
And while your waiting make your little berms/hills for your guard rails so you can get rid of the white boards!:laugh:


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## gunrunnerjohn

That looks great, you are obviously very good at following direction!  I'm going to have to seriously consider adding a mountain in my layout!

Sean, I looked at your website pictures, but I can match the wildlife photos. I've seen as many as 25 deer within 30 feet of my house at one time. We regularly have wild turkeys, I have photos of them on our deck with the whole brood of babies. We see red fox regularly, and we even have had a coyote sighting last year, didn't even know they were around.


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## Xnats

Wow that came out great, you are trucking right along with your layout. Funny with the HomeDepot paint, that is where I got mine. Even if you can not find a flat you can use a satin. Any of the latex, can be diluted down with water to make a wash. I found a Qt of tan/brown satin for a buck and did a 1 to 4 mix with water. A 3 once mix covered a good 3' x 3' section of plaster cloth and spackle.


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## NIMT

Stan,
You are exactly right on the thinning it down to a wash works great and stretches it out a lot. If you get satin or eggshell diluting it will break the shine too, I forgot about that!:thumbsup:
I usually try to find a off white or light tan gallon and a real dark brown gallon, that gives you the ability to make your own colors and shades. Another trick is sample bottles of paint. I have a lot of samples in all different colors.


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## concretepumper

Sunday afternoon update. I removed the wood guardrails and used the same building method to keep the trains from falling to their death on the floor! Only 2 coats on these now that I am using the right stuff! thanks Sean. :thumbsup:


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## concretepumper

Monday 2-14-11 I added a Mine shaft and a plateau for the cars to unload onto.






























After making the Mine tunnel I thought it should go somewhere right? So I made a small plateau for the rail to end on. Now I need some cool little Mining cars to put there since it is a dead track. 














































I placed the Loading tower here then I realized it didn't make any sense to load cars then haul them into the mine. Hmmmm........... I will find something that looks right. Also built a vehicle ramp up the side. Maybe a small building will go here????


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## Canadian Car Knocker

Makes me wanna go work on my layout.


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## NIMT

Sweet!
You just need a Dumping platform so the ore can slide down the hill to the processing and loading facility at the bottom.:thumbsup:
Give you one little tiny idea and you go Ape Poo with it!!!
Love it!!!:laugh:


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## novice

Wow, looks great - I hope mine comes out half as good as that looks so far. Gives me some ideas also.

Looks like you're using Sean's tutorials?

Those tutorials need to be stickied - I have them bookmarked but it would be a shame for others not to be able to find them.

If they don't get stickied, I'll add them to my sig next week.


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## concretepumper

Thanks Sean and Novice!  Yea Seans Tutorial's are great. They should be stickied. You should add them to your page also Sean. Thanks again Bud! :thumbsup:


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## tjcruiser

CP,

Just chiming in quickly to offer a big 'atta boy and thumbs up on your nice work. Proceeding very quickly, and shaping up rather nicely.

Thanks for keeping us in the loop,

TJ


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## sstlaure

Just a thought....Use N scale track for what is coming out of the mine. I've seen some really cool little narrow gauge dumper cars that would be perfect for what you've got there.


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## concretepumper

CP,

Just chiming in quickly to offer a big 'atta boy and thumbs up on your nice work. Proceeding very quickly, and shaping up rather nicely.

Thanks for keeping us in the loop,

TJ 

Well Thank you Sir! I will keep posting my progress here. I can't thank you and the others enough for this great site and all the EXPERT advice you all are kind enough to share.





sstlaure said:


> Just a thought....Use N scale track for what is coming out of the mine. I've seen some really cool little narrow gauge dumper cars that would be perfect for what you've got there.


Perfect! Thanks Dude! I would like to power the mine track to act like a trolley running slowly back and forth on a reversing set up I am guessing? Not quite sure but I have been thinking hard of a way.



Ok so here is an update for 2-16-11. The paint is still wet but it is a satin finish. I wanted to get some sort of base coat on so I picked up some rustoleum satin brown and thinned it with acetone and slopped it all over the Mountains. A little darker than I was thinking but I will work with it. I need to go Visit Calico Mtns. and gather some rock and sand to bring this to life!


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## NIMT

Did you pass out from the acetone smell in the house???:laugh::laugh::laugh:
Mrs. CP can't be happy with you??


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## concretepumper

NIMT.COM said:


> Did you pass out from the acetone smell in the house???:laugh::laugh::laugh:
> Mrs. CP can't be happy with you??


No. I think I am so used to it I don't smell it and the wife and kids are never surprised anymore at the sight s and smells that I make sometimes!


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## NIMT

I just fell off my chair.:laugh::laugh::laugh:







Sort of fits the situation!
Oh and I love all the mountain work! Don't worry about the color being to dark, it will all work out great!:thumbsup:


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## czoom

Good setup. Keep up the good work !


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## mopac

WOW !!! Its coming together. Thanks for the pics. I hope to be showing pics of mine soon. I think you will like using the cork. I plan to use a drop for each section of track also. Makes it hard to lose power. Your track looks like it was laid nicely. Good luck.


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## alocsin

This is incredible how you put things together so quickly. I can't even glue down the homasote on my 2 x 4' module, lol.

Great job.

Aurelio


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## Massey

Your layout looks really good. I know if I did the acetone thing I would be looking for a new place to sleep... or would I be the one in the house while my wife found a not-so-smelly place to sleep... Not sure but I know I would be in trouble. Keep us posted.

Massey


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## sstlaure

He just sold the whole thing for $75


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## norgale

Concretepumper I love what your doing here and you will have a lot of great running track to move the trains around. However one thing I see that you may want to change is not enough storage tracks for your rolling stock. I did the same thing with the Bonita Grand and now I have to make some changes because there are too many cars and engines and not nearly enough sidings and yards to keep them on. I would suggest at least two more sidings somewhere before you nail everything down. You'll be glad you have the extra room in the long run. Pete


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## tjcruiser

I have a Mickey-Mouse-small O layout. Built it last year, simply to get some tracks on a board. But, as my collection of trains has grown, if I had to wish for one thing, it would be more siding train storage, as Norgale suggests. Too many locos/cars ... not enough track.

I agree, Pete! (In a generalized point of view.)

TJ


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## concretepumper

norgale said:


> Concretepumper I love what your doing here and you will have a lot of great running track to move the trains around. However one thing I see that you may want to change is not enough storage tracks for your rolling stock. I did the same thing with the Bonita Grand and now I have to make some changes because there are too many cars and engines and not nearly enough sidings and yards to keep them on. I would suggest at least two more sidings somewhere before you nail everything down. You'll be glad you have the extra room in the long run. Pete


Hey thanks Pete. I will keep this in mind on the next one. Yea I had a little parking problem. This layout is gone. SOLD! SOLD! SOLD! hwell: It had to moved out of the house and I need my Gagrage to fix a few cars for 2 soon to be 16 year olds. Hopefully in a few years I can take over one of their rooms for my toys!


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## gunrunnerjohn

WOW! Two sixteen-year old kids starting to drive! That will keep the pockets empty for a few years!


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## concretepumper

gunrunnerjohn said:


> WOW! Two sixteen-year old kids starting to drive! That will keep the pockets empty for a few years!


No doubt John. 4 of em' total here. I did clean out the garage with keeping the layout in mind but I guess I was bored with it. I found the construction and modeling to be most enjoyable. I suppose a well designed layout with a yard and switching areas would keep a guy occupied. Also I gotta say HO took up a ton more space than I thought it would. Who knows I might try "N" scale next time. I dunno? My eyes suck so N might be trying on the details but I am just thinking overall space used.


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## gunrunnerjohn

I'm thinking that getting mine all together will take a good bit of time. It's proceeding slowly, too many things on the "honey do" list. However, I'm finally finishing the pipe hangers tomorrow, and I'll be picking up the wood for the ceiling track on the weekend.


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## Willyrail1

I'm sooo glad I came across your thread... Your plan of attack on the bench work idea has inspired me to move forward on my layout. 
I noticed you used "particle board sheeting" instead of actual plywood. What is your reason for this choice? curious, as I have up until today, been reading that plywood is what most modellers use.
Thanks for the idea,
Will


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## Gansett

Will,
CP used OSB, oriented strand board. Big chips of what was waste in the past combined with a resin and heat under pressure. Don't know what the technical data says in comparison to plywood but it's the sub floor in my house. For our purposes it costs less and is as strong as plywood. Also it's less likely to warp or sag over a long unsupported stretch. Saw blades do tend to dull a little faster due to the high content of resin.

There's several materials that can fit your description of "particle board" so without more info I can't offer a opinion.
Jack


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## gunrunnerjohn

As Jack says, it all depends on how big the particles are.  I built my shop workbench using OSB, and it's brickhouse solid. I can stand on it and jump up and down with no damage or even measurable flex.


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## norgale

The big thing about particle board of any kind is if it's water proof. Some of it like the stuff they use for cheap furniture and in a lot of trailers will completely fall apart if it gets wet even once. If your talking chip board with the large wooden chips all squashed together with resin then that would be fine for a layout table top. Might be a little bumpy though which plywood isn't. I still like half inch plywood grade a/c for my table tops. $15 around here. Pete


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## gunrunnerjohn

I sealed my benchtop with a couple of coats of varnish.


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## Gansett

Pete,
OSB has a smooth side and a not so smooth side. I have a depression in my yard right outside the door of the shed. A piece of OSB about 2 X 6 was flopped down one day to cross the mud. Still there 2-3 years later, no delamination or warpage. One of these days we'll get a roundtoit


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## Big Ed

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I can stand on it and jump up and down with no damage or even measurable flex.


Can we see a video of that please?


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## 05Slowbalt

I have all OSB bored and I have not run into a problem. If you go to Layouts in the forum and look under MY HO Scale Layout (05Slowbalt as there is now two with the same tittle) you will see that my table tops, lifted track, and Helix are all made with OSB.


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