# Bachmann Pancake motors



## bluenavigator (Aug 30, 2015)

I know that these old pancake motors are not that great in the past, comparing to current better bigger and stronger motors with flywheels. 

I had collected some of them off ebay by luck. 

Anyone ever try to create new one from these pancake motors?

Right now, I am working on CAD software, drafting from scratch as I get all measurements off the old pancake motor case. So far, so good. When it was completed, I will be able to print the new case to replace damaged cases that I have on hand.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

The case is a weak spot, but the overall design is lacking .....
A reasonable alternative is CD motors, which are readily available , and very low cost ..


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## bluenavigator (Aug 30, 2015)

CD motor - like the motor from CD/DVD drive? That's good alternative motor but need to find right size that can fit or replace the case. 

Since I already drafted the case on CAD, it can be done to make the case to be solid with a hole to hold the CD motor. That's a good thought. 

Actually, I am thinking of make the case with simple worm and gear to be driven by external motor instead of using actual pancake motor. This sounds to be more technical.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

if you're interested, here's the link [on here]
https://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=10492&page=1


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## HOfabricator4$sless (Jun 20, 2019)

Wed 6-19-19 9:31 a.m.

I enjoy rebuilding Bachmann steam locos and diesels. The primary problem I run into is out-of-quarter drivers, which I drill and pin to maintain proper quartering. When out-of-quartering occurs, then motors often burn up. 

Unfortunately, Bachmann steam locos are fairly light. I think they would be happiest pulling a bobber caboose - only. Alternately, you can run a few cars, but the locos need to take a rest about every 15 minutes to prevent overheating problems.

I have run into some problems with the brush carrier plates on the motors. If the motors overheat, the bronze bushing in the plate can shift off center. I have heated up the bronze bushing with a soldering iron, pushed the bushing back into the proper position, and used the same soldering iron to melt / push the plastic back where it needs to go in the void space created by the bushing. It is tricky, but I have often been successful. I have done the same thing with the brush carriers. Again, it is tricky.

I am a purist which means I do not like substituting non-Bachmann parts. Substitutes are the first step to sending steam locos to the graveyard.

Good luck.


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## bluenavigator (Aug 30, 2015)

Yes, that is the primary reason why I am working on CAD project, which was already completed and ready to be used for 3D printer to print these. Only that i do not know the actual type of plastic that these pancake motors were made out of.


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## HOfabricator4$sless (Jun 20, 2019)

Thurs 6-20-19 1:25 a.m.

I believe that the Bachmann motor cases are made from Delrin (Acetyl) plastic. However, it is my understanding that the Delrin may need to be annealed to prevent cracking.

Early (late 1970s) Samhongsa brass steam locos had Delrin gears which were notorious for cracking (clicking noises). However, Samhongsa improved as time went on. The sad thing is that even brand new, never-operated locos can suffer from cracked Delrin gears.


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## Cab1 (Jul 26, 2009)

> CD motor - like the motor from CD/DVD drive? That's good alternative motor but need to find right size that can fit or replace the case.


I dropped a DVD motor into a Tyco GG-1 and converted it to DCC a few years back. It works okay and has a lot more power than the motor that was in it, but boy it's a lot of work. Not only does the replacement motor have to be the right size to fit the truck, the output shaft has to line up at the right spot for the gears to engage. It takes a lot of cutting with a Dremel to get it right. The only problem is that it had a light board in it. I took it out and tossed it, figuring it wasn't needed since the decoder would take care of it. Wrong! The headlight goes on when the loco runs backwards and the taillight goes on when the loco runs forward. It seemed like an easy fix - reverse polarity. The light board is just a bunch of diodes, but I could never get it to work right. There's something going on there that I don't understand. The Tyco GG-1 is not prototypical. Not even close. So I just threw it in a drawer and moved on.


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