# American Flyer set up



## Glarkcable (Dec 29, 2011)

Hi,
Here's a challenge. From Australia, got to see an American Flyer at a local auction. Absolutely love the whole dynamic of it. Size, the way to control the set, switching etc. So am setting up a layout from scratch. Already bought a 312 loco and tender , plus some S size tracks, about to buy a transformer ...any help appreciated, plus switches etc... 
Off course, I'm from Australia, so the voltage is 240 v,50HZ.... So have to use a step up transformer to use the US transformer etc...
Hopefully in 12months, I will post some pics.
Glarkcable


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

Glarkcable, welcome to the Forum, and welcome to S scale! We have several American Flyer runners on this site and you'll find all the help you could ask for. Let me start with two things. The first is below: it's a list of information sites to learn more about your new addiction. The second is a bit of advice.

American Flyer made excellent equipment before and after WW2, and up through the 1950's. Closing on 1960, though, the quality went downhill as they tried to stave off bankruptcy. The company eventually folded and the molds and rights were acquired by Lionel. The advice I mentioned is to start off buying only locomotives and rolling stock with three-digit numbers. This is the earlier equipment and the quality is better.

American Flyer also made O gauge and HO gauge: when you get Ebay fever over a low price, make sure to check the scale. Sellers don't always tell you what size the item is. For example, I'm the proud owner of an HO scale track wiring connector that's absolutely useless to me, but I got a great price on it!

Also, look at the couplers before you bid. AF went through several types of couplers, and you want all of your stuff to be compatible. The 302 has a link coupler, as opposed to a knuckle coupler. Any car with a 600-series number should be a link coupler (unless modified), while the 900- series are knuckle couplers.

Transformers: YOU USE AC, NOT DC!!!!! That said, your stuff will also run on DC, but if someone puts a DC train on your rails, it will kill it. Ebay carries a lot of really good AF transformers, with a lot of wattage available. #6, #8B and 15B are my personal favorites. In general, the more watts the better, but the #6 and #8B are excellent to start out with. Get a huge layout and you'll want a #30B: it's a 300 Watt monster that will power your layout and most of Darwin.

Finally, let me suggest you explore the S scale threads on this site: you'll find plenty of information on maintenance, layout building, repairs and so on. Also, be attentive to threads anywhere by T-Man. He's an excellent teacher and does threads on repairs, rebuilding, and maintenance.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Flyer

http://www.americanflyerexpress.com...r-products-directory-steam-locomotives-01.htm

http://www.portlines.com/afrepairclinics.htm

http://myflyertrains.org/gallery/GilbertFactoryManual

http://www.trainweb.org/s-trains/FAQ/locospecs.html


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

VERY good advice from Reckers!! Also, get yourself a A.F. repair book from K-line. It's great! You can buy aftermarket track for A.F. if you can't find any down under. There are repo parts galore for A.F. One of the best places for parts is Portline Hobbys, another is RFG. Marty's Trains is also good, but I like PortLines. I also have a 312 that I love, and I did a thread on rebuilding it on the site. I believe there is another thread on it also. If you need any help whatsoever, drop me a PM, as I don't check the site often enough, and my computer will inform me of a PM from the site. Good luck, you're going to love your flyers!!


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Hi Clark --

Welcome Aboard !! While I have only been a member of this site only a mere 2 weeks or so, I have learned that what Reckers says is usually right. I have a ton of Flyer stuff in my collection and am in the process of cataloging, servicing and repairing all my equipment so it will be in good working condition. As I do this, I have been advised by the best people on this site, including Reckers. So if you need any assistance with anything, don't hesitate writing to the forum. The only questions considered dumb are those that aren't asked. I'll be glad to offer any suggestions or expertise I have, even though it won't compare with many of those who have been long-time members of this site. You picked a good brand to work with. Happy Railroading !!


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## Glarkcable (Dec 29, 2011)

Thank you Reckers, MOST appreciated and great knowledge, obviously.
I will take it all in and am sure in the early days will soak up some of your knowledge. Also thanks to Flyernut (sound silly saying that) and Nuttin but Flyer. Ive now bought enough gear to at least run on a straight track (still need curves...LOL). I will pick up most of my gear when I get to Miami in January from ebay sellers.
There is NOTHING on "S" scale in Australia, I mean nothing!, so a good challenge, anyway. Hobby shops in OZ are becoming too commercialised and have no stock of anything except HO...
Thanks all once again.
Glarkcable


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

Thank you for the kind words, guys---that was very nice of you to say. There's an old saying, down here in Kentucky, that even a blind pig will find an occasional acorn, so now and then I get one right, too!

GC, you'll find the curved track is generally cheaper than straight track and is abundant. January is a good time to buy on Ebay: folks have less money after Christmas and the auctions tend to finish at a lower price. The original AF track was fairly simple stuff: aside from the switches, you had 4 kinds of track: 10" straight, roughly 10" curves, and half-length straight and half-length curves. It's manufactured with nickel-silver plating for good conductivity: you should never let sandpaper come anywhere near your rails. Cleaning consists of using something to remove any grease or oil, carbon, dirt, etc; my preference is GooGone, which can be bought in Walmart's automotive dept. Use a Scotchbrite or similar plastic scrubbing pad and the GooGone to clean the rails and then wipe them down with a cloth and Isopropyl alcohol. I use the 90% alcohol, and the higher the percentage, the less water, so high is good. The idea is that Googone will disolve the oil, but then you have solvent/grease residue. The second wipe with alcohol removes the Googone and then evaporates.

Of course, you should simultaneously be applying ethanol to your liver. I find that makes most anything work better!


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Also, pick up a "bright boy".It's great to clean tracks with. Just don't get the bargain brand ones you see at shows; they just don't work as well. Flex track is also available for your flyers. I like GarGraves. It's made with real wood ties, and your train will love it. I do believe they ship over seas.I know I always push the GarGraves track, but I know the family, and they run a great company. I'm not trying to endorse anything but I do like their product.If you want to repair your own trains, you can't go wrong with a 301,302, or a 302AC. They're simple, and parts are available.They are a good start for someone just starting out, and they are still relatively cheap.


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## markjs (Dec 11, 2010)

*S Gauge*

Hi,
Maybe there is nothing in Australia, but if you Google "Youtube S Gauge (or scale) New Zealand," you'll get some really neat videos.
Mark


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

Ebay track:


http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-195...797631?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item2318322fff

http://www.ebay.com/itm/American-Fl...965489?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item53eac37c71


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