# Lionel E-units Prewar & Postwar info



## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

I thought this would be a good addition to this link for Repair/Restoration. Speaking of E units, whether they be Pre or Post war items, the only major difference for a particular use, is in the length of wire from the contact fingers, so that they will be long enough to attach to the critical points of the motor. The basic design of the E units hasn't changed, only the lever location of FRONT or BACK mounted, or if the lever is UPWARD or DOWNWARD. The wire length is the only thing that makes a specific E unit compatible to a specific motor. Typically the E unit needs cleaning/repairing/rebuilding, so the wire length shouldn't be an issue, if replacement parts are going to be used. I did some searching on the Prewar versions of which all have the Upward levers.

The forward facing lever (away from the field coil) are the 1661E-5; 1668E-36; & 226E-35

The inward facing lever (toward the field coil) are the 259E-25; 260E-72; & 262E-10

A. 1661E-5 used on 229, 1664,1664E, 1681E, 1688E, 1689E
B. 1668E-36 used on 1662, 63, 64 (1940), 1666, 1666E, 1668E, 1684, 1688
C. 226E-35 used on 224, 224E, 225, 225E, 226, 226E
D. 259E-025 used on 259,259E, 264, 264E, 265, 265E
E. 260E-72 used on 250, 250E, 255E, 263, 263E
F. 262E-10 used on 238, 238E, 249, 249E, 262E

The supply of Prewar E units from dealers is very slim, but by substituting a Postwar E unit, of the same basic design as far as the lever location, there a few choices that can be made. The most common substitution for the FORWARD LEVER is the Postwar 100-25, which many Postwar locos used. The INWARD LEVER has 3 options available, with only difference of wire length, which are Postwar 100-8, 100-11, 2332M-10, all of the same design, different wire lengths.

The 100-8 was used on the #520 ;
The 100-11 was used on the #44,45,204,205,208,209,210,216,217,218,220,224,226.
The 2332M-10 was only used on #2332

By using this information, you can come up with needy replacement using a Postwar unit, and just making the necessary adjusting to wires.


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## carinofranco (Aug 1, 2012)

Thanks for the information. I have had to dig through exploded diagrams one by one to find the right number for e units, this helps a lot.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

I basically had to do the same, and after just recently getting into Prewar restorating locos, the ones I am working on either have forward or rearward facing levers, and the Postwar E units are good replacements. With what I posted, it's easy to see what I can use as a replacement. Thanks loads to Olsen's Toy Train Library to confirm everything. I wanted to post it for others to reference, if they have a question.


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## Trent Bishop (Jun 8, 2015)

Thanks Teledoc.This list helps me a lot.Working on restoring a 259e and a 1684e right now and of course the e units are a mess.


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

I started doing my own repairs in the last few years, and I have a lot of part suppliers "bookmarked" for getting things that I need in repair or restorations. Initially when I got back into O gauge (which I had in my youth), I was scared to death to touch anything beyond a cursory cleaning. I only have two actual Lionel hobby stores within a decent distance, and one I refuse to go back into, because of the attitudes of both owners, (brothers, who are very condesending). I know that the typical bench fee is in the $35-$40 range to just look at it, plus parts, which can add up quickly. I decided to take the plunge, and tore apart a 1615 switcher, (my wife's childhood train) that needed work to get it running. I did a thorough cleaning, lubrication, oiling, and E-unit cleaning, and got it running perfect. With that under my belt, I have since tackled a few more repairs/restorations. That is where I needed to get a serious list of parts, part numbers, and the idea of creating these lists is to FIRST help myself, and then to offer it to others, like yourself, who constantly have to search part numbers, or what can fit, as a replacement. Although most of these lists did take time to compile, it was well worth it, in the long run, and much appreciated by the others who have looked at the various lists that I created. It's there to help everyone. Of course, I did miss two units.


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## Trent Bishop (Jun 8, 2015)

*Re.Help*

Yes sir I totally agree with you.Being from Canada, hobby shops are few and far between and collecting prewar(since I was 19 years old)in a province that really does not have many collectors(They tend to buy whatever they can lay there hands on and sell it on ebay)I have been forced to buy some parts on Ebay.This works well when our Canadian dollar is at par but can get really expensive now since our dollar is a joke.Since I joined this forum a month ago I have received great information and help form great people.Thanks again. http://www.modeltrainforum.com/images/smilies/smilie_daumenpos.gif


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

I inadvertently missed two E-units from the previous list, which are two units used in the 616 Flying Yankee; and the 752 UP M10000 diesel. The parts are:

A. 752e-2
B. 616E-10

The Postwar replacements are *100-2* or *100-7*, which are both downward lever rear models. Again, it is merely the length of wire on each unit, as to whether it is an exact fit, or has to be modified with new wires.


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## Trent Bishop (Jun 8, 2015)

Thanks again.Teledoc.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Great thread / info, Jerry ... thanks for posting!

TJ


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Someone must have returned from Maine recently????? Welcome back!


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## cole226 (Feb 8, 2013)

good info

thanks for posting :thumbsup:


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