# Ballast ideas?



## trainsrfun (Apr 9, 2011)

Does anybody have a good ballasting technique? or does it just take a long time? I've been ballasting atlas code 100 track on soundboard and was looking for a neat effeicient way if there is one:laugh:


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## johnr42795 (Apr 8, 2011)

I was taught to put it on dry and use a diluted solution of Elmers White Glue and water sprayed or poured on. Use a 3X5 card to protect the rail from the glue if you spray but it does wipe off easily if you get it on the rails.


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Goto YouTube and look up Al Mayo videos. He has one on there about ballasting track that really looks great to me. I'll be trying it on my new Layout this weekend. Al has some good videos on a lot of subjects like soldering track together and weathering rolling stock. Lots of good info there. Pete


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## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

norgale said:


> Goto YouTube and look up Al Mayo videos. He has one on there about ballasting track that really looks great to me. I'll be trying it on my new Layout this weekend. Al has some good videos on a lot of subjects like soldering track together and weathering rolling stock. Lots of good info there. Pete


Yea he does have some really good how toos. However if you look at some of his other videos Like "Model Railroading's Finest" where he walks around a Train Show filming and making fun of Overweight or Odd looking people. Or he does the same at WalMart with his Daughter in tow. I might think the same in my head but don't verbalize it! Just my .02 cents.


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## trainsrfun (Apr 9, 2011)

Thanks guys:thumbsup: for the info, ill be looking them up. I was using wet water and scenic cement, and thought maybe there was an easier spreading method


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

trainsrfun said:


> I was using wet water and scenic cement, and thought maybe there was an easier spreading method


 There is. Try this. http://www.micromark.com/HO-Gauge-Ballast-Spreader,9535.html It takes a little practice to get the right hang of it. The trick is running it along the track at just the right speed. Not too fast and not too slow. Once mastered, it is a much easier and faster way of doing it. 

Once layed, the gluing is the REAL time consumming part of it all, as the best method of gluing it that I've found is unfortunately also the slowest and the most time consuming. Using an eyedropper. On the other hand, the spray gluing method it is quite a bit faster, but will at times also unwantingly move the ballast around, thus sometimes ruining the lay. Using an eyedropper won't.

John


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## GE Dash 7 (Apr 18, 2011)

How would a guy apply ballast around a turnout without causing it to jam??


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

It's probably best not to ballast the area where the moving parts exist. Actually the real roads are ballasted but the rocks are under the moving parts so they don't cause a problem. If you can do that then fine otherwise just leave it alone. The moving rail only moves about an eighth of an inch so you should be able to ballast it for the most part. Pete


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

I use a finer ballast at the switch movement sections, easier to keep it from jamming up the works!


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

The ballast I use is graded for HO gauge. So for finer ballast use N scale ballast. Should be available in the same color although my N scale ballast is black and the HO is white/gray. Just mush the ballast around with a small paint brush and put some diluted white glue on it after a spray of water with alcohol in it for a wetting agent. Pete


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

I have yet to find a quick method of laying balast, but I have found a good way. First off I use a spoon to rough it in to place then I use a tooth brush between the rails to smooth it out and an acid brush to form the sides. As for laying it out just go slow with the tooth brush because it will fling balast around. To set it I dampen the balast with an alcohol/water mix misted onto the track. Do not spray directly onto the balast since that will move it around. I spray level to the track about a foot above untill the surface is wet (use a fine spray for best results) Then out comes the eye dropper and a 50/50 mix of elmers and water. For the switch locations I do not drop the glue/water directly under the moving parts but I make sure the surrounding areas get enough to soak through. When all is dry the points are usually a little stuck but they will break free pretty easy and work just fine. I have never had a problem with my switches following this method but I also have only ever used plastic tie'd switches as well. Switches with wooden ties may not break free as pretty as the plastic ones do.

Massey


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

The only thing I do different is the diluted glue. I just mix it in the white glue bottle and when it's real thin (50-50) I just squirt it out of the bottle. It flows everywhere the water/alcohol has penetrated and blends right into the ballast. Lots faster than a eye dropper but the dropper may be really good for around switches. By the way what persentages do you use of the water to alcohol? Pete


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

I only add enough alcohol to break the surface tension of the water, usually about 4:1 water to alcohol, and i use the 80% stuff as well. You can also use a drop or 2 of dish soap but I found that you can get soap bubbles every now and then which is not good.

Massey


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## gc53dfgc (Apr 13, 2010)

A good way for laying ballast is pour the ballast over the track with a 3.5x5 card then go over it with a paint brush. spray water on it from a cheap heair spray bottle that has some soap in it. Then go over all of that with dilluted (1/2) white glue and your done. The man who told me of this technique can get done about 5 ft in a session which is I think 2 hours for him maybe. Might be one or less.


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