# Alternative track contacts



## Robes (Jan 5, 2011)

I have a small board in the shop....just big enough for a circle. It is a frame with 3/4 plywood. The track is screwed down to the plywood because the board needs to move periodically for project in the shop. I use the board to test accessories to see if they work,... and sometimes I have to noodle a bit on how they work. One issue I have is a Lionel 145 contactor does not work because the track is REAL secure and does not move. Do they make any other type of contactor? I am working on a Marx crossing bell and the sheet of paper that comes with it makes mention of some type of contactor that is laid on top of the rail... Can anyone point me to one of these?


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

Lionel makes a 1045c as pictured here:










Marx had aversion that looked more like a split copper line that just sat on top of an outer rail (insulated from rail) when the wheels cause a connection to the opposite rail you get action,

You can make your own with very thin copper stock. Apply electrical tape to outer rail and cover with thin copper stock to which you have soldered your trigger wire.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Marx bell, very recently discussed here.

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=21661&highlight=marx+bell


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

A simple way to make a contact is to take a piece of tape and insulate the rail and use a piece of copper foil to make the contact by placing it over the tape. Solder a wire to the copper before you put it on the rail so you don't melt the tape. Marx made things like in the far distant past.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Another alternative is insulated track sections . Hey will work better with other accessories that don't require a wig wag. The insulated track compleats the power circuit though the trains wheels activating the accessorie. T-man made one in short sections so a sig wag light would work. I think there pretty cool. They work well too and are easy to make yourself. I'll give more info if anyone wants to make one. They are great with things like the gateman, etc.


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## Pontiac787 (Aug 14, 2011)

servoguy said:


> A simple way to make a contact is to take a piece of tape and insulate the rail and use a piece of copper foil to make the contact by placing it over the tape. Solder a wire to the copper before you put it on the rail so you don't melt the tape. Marx made things like in the far distant past.


Maybe that was my problem. I made one of these contactors this weekend but just drilled a hole through it and twisted the wire to it. The tape insulator melted after a few trips around the track.


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## Robes (Jan 5, 2011)

I am trying to search for the thread where they posted pictures of the insulated track option. After looking about, I like that idea the best as it seems to be the best option. I need to make a few of these (I will probably make half a dozen), but I need to be able to make and test the first one. Pictures work the best for me in this type of a project until I grasp the concept.... Anyone remember where that thread was?


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

Don't know about a thread with pictures, but it is really very simple. 

For a tubular section of track you are going to very gently pry open the ties that hold one outside rail (completely remove it). 

You can't make a mistake reassembling because the rail has little dimples that align it with the tie.

You are going to fashion three little insulator strips from card stock (using the center rail as a guide - it is already insulated). 

Wrap your fabricated insulators around the rail at the appropriate locations and reassemble to the tie.

Now that you've done your first section you will have two insulated rails and that look identical or close and one outside rail that is connected to the ties electrically.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I don't have pictures, I'll post some in the am. Real easy to make, take your track, undo the outside ground rail, put a insulating paper under this rail. Re crimp it. I use tar paper for roofing. The original was fish paper, whatever that is. Use a screwdriver and small pliers to bend up the tabs on the rail and to bend it back. Now stick insulated pins in that rail. Hook up a lock on and your almost finished. Hook the ground wire from you accessory to your outside rail. When the wheels span the track the accessorie will activate. Don't forget to power the accessorie!


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## Robes (Jan 5, 2011)

Thanks guys!! Pictures help a lot.
The thread I was remembering.... it had just a small section isolated...and I think it was T-man who was doing it. If memory serves me right, Big Ed was pretty impressed. It was an old thread....


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Pictures of whole track with lockon. The wheels of the train span both the insulated rail, and the normal grounded Raul bringing the ground to the accessory. This compleats the electrical circuit. Notice the paper under the rail. This insulates it. Also notice the fiber pin in the ends of the rail. Finally the lockon witch is only connected to the outer rail. You will power up the accessorie any way you want.


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## ironman21 (Mar 5, 2013)

If you are testing accessories make a pair of test wire with an alligator clip at one or both ends and simply clip one to the center rail and the outside rail then to the accessory, of course the loco cant be on the track


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## Robes (Jan 5, 2011)

Izzat page you displayed Greenburgs? I plan to do this with a short section of track. That should not be a problem....right?

I have a short loop on a 4x4 board that I use for a test track. I will be installing one of these activator rails on that loop as I use it to test accessories before they go on the big track.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Yes it's in greenbergs. T-man used short sections for a wig wag on a crossing.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

You can make a track contact by putting a piece of electrical tape on the rail and putting a piece of copper foil on top of the tape. Solder a wire onto the copper before you install it. Otherwise you will melt the tape. These are quick and easy to make and can be any length.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Servoguy, that works too, but the insulated track is cool. And it doesn't change the look.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Robes said:


> Thanks guys!! Pictures help a lot.
> The thread I was remembering.... it had just a small section isolated...and I think it was T-man who was doing it. If memory serves me right, Big Ed was pretty impressed. It was an old thread....


What I think you are referring to was an electronically controlled section that the T-Man was making. I think it was for a trolley?
I would not be overly impressed with just an plain old isolated block section.


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## Robes (Jan 5, 2011)

Big Ed! I was hoping you would weigh in! The pictures were of a SECTION OF A TRACK that was isolated. Do you remember which thread it was?


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

T-Man has 100,0001 helpful threads, hard to search. 

Would this be the one?
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=2681&


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## Robes (Jan 5, 2011)

THANK YOU! That is the one. I searched all over for it. Apparently I did not use the right "key words". I had a feeling you could hone in on the right one....


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## Robes (Jan 5, 2011)

I was down in the shop working on a few other projects and had some "wait time" so I decided to build a couple of insulated tracks suggested sjm9911. I built one curve and one straight track. Pretty easy to do, but you have to make sure you insulate the end of the tracks as well. The pins provide a wee bit of separation,... but I used some electrical tape (custom fit with an exacto blade) to provide some assurance...


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The insulating fiber pins have a little shoulder on them to prevent the contact between the tracks, that's all you need.


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## Robes (Jan 5, 2011)

I noticed the shoulder,.. but I thought I would make darn sure.... I had time to kill whilst waiting for some paint to cure. (I am repainting the wheel fairings on the Cessna)


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