# My Grandpa's old train



## Psycho18th (Nov 27, 2011)

My grandfather had some model trains growing up, which he passed on to my mom, who has since passed them to me to enjoy with my kids. I have many fond memories of setting them up around the Christmas tree every year. I got them out and set the track around our tree this year, and the trains aren't running very well. The one operational locomotive can barely make it around the track, much less pull cars. The headlight is intermittent, and the tracks aren't holding tightly together.

I would like to get the 2 engines running around the track and able to pull cars. The entire drive-train comes out of the locomotive with 2 flat head screws, and it appears I could replace the entire drive mechanism, to be up and running again. My problem is that I have no way of knowing exactly what scale/parts to order. Can anyone help me with the scale parts I should be looking for and a good way to order them (either a good shop in Phoenix, AZ or online somewhere)?

Thanks
Keith

I'll try to attach pictures, but in the meantime, this is the best description I can make:

























Track: has 3 rails 1 & 11/32" (34mm) between the two outside rails, measured from the center of the outside rails. It's 1 and 15/32" (32mm)between the enside edges of the outside rails.

Locomotive: Has a center copper bar that drags along the inside rail. The right hand wheels are gear driven. It's a little over 2 inches between the centers of the front and rear wheels. One has the words Commodore Vanderbilt on a metal plate on the side of it.

Transformer: Toy Transformer Louis Marx & CO INC, New York, CAT. NO. 319, 115 volts A.C. 30 watts output - 60 cycles.

These should be the photos:


----------



## santafe158 (Jul 14, 2010)

Those are O gauge trains made by the Marx toy company. You could probably find parts you need on Ebay. They probably need a good cleaning and lubrication (the running locomotive anyway) and if the wiring is bad, it could probably be replaced.

When it comes to family heirlooms (trains in this case), I like trying to keep them as original as possible. Would a new mechanism really still be your grandpa's train, even with the original shell?

Somebody that knows more about marx trains than I do (I am a Lionel guy) will probably have more information for you on what you need to get.


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Keith,

Welcome to the forum. A huge thumbs-up to you for trying to get gramps' trains running for your kids. Nothing bridges the gaps across generations better than a model train!

Ditto to SanteFe's comments above ... Marx tinplate O gauge. I would strongly encourage you to try repairing the motors that you have, rather than swapping them out fully for replacements. Parts are likely available.

Here's a website that offers some nice history/inventory of old Marx trains ...

http://marxtinplatetrains.com/marx_guide_locos.htm

And another ...

http://www.toyandtrainguides.com/marxtin.htm

Your first loco is a common Commodore Vanderbilt, offered in several different colors, trims. You're missing (at least) one drive wheel.

The second loco (at first glance) appears to be a 591.

Lionel parts dealers are more common than Marx parts dealers. That said, some Lionel dealers also have some inventory of Marx parts. I'd recommend you first try:

www.ttender.com -- Jeff Kane ... excellent ... mostly Lionel, but some Marx.

http://www.trainpartsformarx.com/ -- mostly Marx

http://www.smittystoytrainparts.com/07-marx-all.html

To determine which parts (other than the wheel) you may need, you'll have to:

1. See if the tranformer is generating AC power ... should be around 9V to 18V AC, or so. Be careful here ... make sure the power cord isn't frayed, etc.

2. Make sure the two wired that go from the transformer to the track are intact.

3. Make sure that the 'lockon' clip that attaches the wire to the track is OK, and functional. One power lead wire should transfer power to the center rail, the other to one of the outer rails.

4. Make sure you're track is electrically OK: track-to-track metal pins are tight; the center rail is electrically isolated from the outer rails via paper insulator strips at each cross tie. You do NOT need a full loop to test a loco ... often, it's better to simply have 3 or 4 straight pieces connected, with open ends at each end. This will work just fine (as long as the edges don't point off the table!)

5. For sure (and importantly), the loco motors will need a cleaning and a lube. I'd suggest you remove each motor, first, and then clean all of the old gunk/grease with GooGone and q-tips, pipe cleaners. The GooGone won't hurt the motor, so you can squirt this somewhat liberally. Dry it all after a clean, and then apply a small drop of 5W-20 or 5W-30 motor oil to each moving/spinning part.

6. Test the motor (without the loco shell) on the track.

Report from there, and we can coach you through the next needed steps.

More detailed photos of the motors themselves (removed from the shell) would help.

Good luck!

TJ


----------



## Psycho18th (Nov 27, 2011)

Thanks a ton for the responses so far. I'll get the motors apart and add some pictures of the insides. 

I'm thinking the track itself is the problem on the "591" locomotive. It will run, but creeps/stops often along the track. There's also some whining coming from the main gear out of the motor to the wheels causing some drag. I bet cleaning and lubing will do the trick there. 

The Commodor vanderbuilt will need some parts besides the wheel, as it doesn't even try to move. 

I'll get the multi-tester out and check the transformer output. How do you test the voltage further along the track to ensure you're getting a good connection between the track sections?

Thanks again,
Keith


----------



## santafe158 (Jul 14, 2010)

Put one lead on the outside rail and one on the inside rail. That will give you the voltage at that point. Both the outer rails should be the ground and the inner rail is your hot if you have it hooked up right. (doesn't really matter which is which unless you have a sound system, which you don't)


----------



## Psycho18th (Nov 27, 2011)

Here are a couple shots of the motor that runs. The transformer was putting out about 9V AC. 

















These are of the motor that doesn't run. It just clicks once when I put the juice to it:

















Keith


----------



## santafe158 (Jul 14, 2010)

If the transformer is only putting out 9V, you might want to consider an upgrade. That's probably why you're not getting any operation from the one motor.

The wheels on your second motor look to be pretty rusty, or is that just the picture?


----------



## Psycho18th (Nov 27, 2011)

I took the best looking motor out, took it partially apart (seems some of it isn't accessible with screwdriver and wrench, but needs to have rivets drilled out. I cleaned it thoroughly and lightly lubed all the moving parts I could reach. Put it back together and it runs smooth and fast!
Only one problem: It only runs backwards! Before, when I turned the transformer to off and turned it back up, the motor changed direction. Now it only runs in reverse. Even if I turn the train around on the track, it only backs up. Any ideas on what I may have disturbed/broken/re-assembled incorrectly that would keep the motor from reversing direction?

Thanks
Keith


----------



## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

Psycho18th, welcome to the forum! Let me also suggest cleaning the track and those metal electrical-pickup wheels as part of your effort. Best cleaning practice is to keep sandpaper away from the track and wheels: it will scratch the surfaces and create carbon-spots from sparks. Carbon is a poor conductor. Instead, go to Walmart automotive and get a bottle of GooGone (bug and tar remover), go to Walmart hardware for a ScotchBrite pad, and to the pharmacy for isopropyl alcohol, the higher percentage, the better. Use GooGone on the pad to clean the rails and wheels, then the alcohol to remove the Googone/gunk residue. If you have a dremel tool, polish them shiny and then use alcohol to remove the buffing compound.

Best wishes on your new addiction!


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

If the motor only runs in one direction, I'd suggest looking at the E-Unit, it's the coil and contacts under it that are on the end of the engine. That's what changes the direction when you interrupt power.


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

T-Man's thread on his Marx 999 has some great info/pics on how he serviced his Marx e-unit ...

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=3108

TJ


----------



## Psycho18th (Nov 27, 2011)

So I took it back apart, cleaned a bit more, took at look at the other recommended threads, and everything seemed to be where it was supposed to be. Now the motor won't run at all in either direction.

I'm very bummed. I'm thinking I'll get a working unit for now to keep the kids entertained through Christmas to give me more time to re-attack a permanent fix on the old motors.

Thanks you all for the great help so far. You've been very helpful, informative, and welcoming to a complete newbie.

Keith


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Bummer. Sometimes a breather away from a train is the best tool we can use to fix a train! (I've been-there/done-that myself, many times!)

If there's absolutely no signs of life -- no vibration, no humming, no motion -- it sounds to me like a wire or solder joint has broken loose, and the electrical circuit is essentially open. That doesn't narrow down your debugging hunt too much, but peek closely at each wire ending carefully.

Are the brushes and brush springs installed OK?

Power still going to the track OK?

TJ


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

My two cents,in both of the pictures of the engine, the gears look real dry.

Did you take the brush plate off and clean in there?


----------



## Psycho18th (Nov 27, 2011)

OK, I went away for a bit and then re-examined the E-unit as best I could without major surgery. I found a little black flap on the bottom that will move up and down. When it's down, the train goes in reverse. When up, the train goes forward. This one is sticky, and had stuck at a 1/2 way point. I got it to stick in the "go forward" direction, re-assembled the locomotive and now it drives forward only, but seems to run fine. I still have some track cleaning to do, but what I have should entertain through the hollidays.

I found this website helpful as well for Marx stuff: http://www.thortrains.net/marstart.html

I also took a short video of the train running here, so you can see the product of all your help thus far:


Thanks again

Keith


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Try cleaning the lower part of the e-unit with some GooGone (squirt it right in there!) and a pipe cleaner, dry it out a bit, and then put a small drop of oil on the moving parts, including the solenoid plunger. That might free things up nicely.

TJ


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'm not sure I'd oil the plunger, that tends to make them stick. Solenoids are not supposed to be lubricated at all.


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I've put a tiny drop on my Lionel e-unit plungers, with good success ... 5W-30 ... works OK (so far, at least) on my end.

TJ


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I worked on a lot of equipment with solenoids, and oil was the bane of their existence.  I find that dry and clean works best for me. I've kinda' retired most of the stuff with E-Units, so my experience is "dated".  I find I need no oil on my TMCC electronics. :laugh:


----------



## DBurgess16 (Dec 4, 2011)

WoW!! These were amazing photos, bringing back memories and realizing what a timeless hobby this is!!


----------

