# If you are getting Stabbed by protruding screws !



## 65446 (Sep 22, 2018)

My last layout I used those black wall board screws and probably will again..
But many came clear through the ply sub-roadbed to be sticking out underneath by sometimes a half inch. 
God did I keep getting my hands cut up from them doing wiring or re-railing in the open grid bench..
If you are enduring this too, do this ASAP ! : 
Instead of trying to cut them, get thin clear plastic tubing from the hardware store. Cut it into 3/4" lengths and spin them onto each screw.. Your hands will hit the extra length and remain free of cuts...


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## Homeless by Choice (Apr 15, 2016)

Or buy shorter drywall screws to start with. They come in lenghts of 3/8" to over 4" in 1/8" increments.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

actually, the shorter screw idea is much better ... just sayin'


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

But if you’ve already used screws that were too long, the plastic tubing is a good idea....


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## kilowatt62 (Aug 18, 2019)

While I agree that shorter screws from the get-go is the smart choice, it isnt always an option for various reasons. Oh and, super sharp pointed black drywall/wallboard screws are no shorter than one inch. 
As said, when the screws are already in, I like the tubing idea if have some laying around. I wouldnt go looking to purchase it.
Another idea, that ive done is, Any version of liquid plastic in a tube works very well. 
Aka; rtv/ gasket maker/ silicon/ liquid electrical tape. Any of these in a small tube for a dollar or two.
Put the tube opening over the screw tip all the way till touches the surface. Light pressure on the tube as you pull back to leave behind enough goop to encase the screwtip. 
Could even use caulking but, that big tube and application gun with its 'super accurate' trigger and release mechanism will leave you with messy results.


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## 65446 (Sep 22, 2018)

With the drywall screws, the shorter ones (3/4" / 1" ?), going through 1/2" ply don't grab the second piece well and much time wind up stripping the wood threads they make as you tighten them down.
The ones which do go through both pieces (1.25" ?) but protrude, do grab firmly, but is why they need the tubing I suggest...
I suppose there are correct wood screws which cause no problems whatsoever. The drywall ones are cheaper is maybe why I/we buy them..and maybe that's a big mistake to begin with....


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

When you're using drywall screws, I suggest the coarse thread. They don't strip out as easily as the finer thread screws. I use 1" coarse thread drywall screws to secure the Homasote to my 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood, they don't stick out and they didn't spin in the wood. If you're using the fine thread, that's probably the root of some of your problems.


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## riogrande (Apr 28, 2012)

I use drywall screws and have boxes ranging from 1" to 1 1/4" to 1 5/8" to 2" to 2 1/2" etc. I choose a size to fit but still sometimes a little sticks out and it could rip skin and cause blood to get on things.

Solution, a grinder attachment on my Dremel will grind the sharp ends down. )


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Dremel with the fiber cutoff wheel works for me.


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## riogrande (Apr 28, 2012)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Dremel with the fiber cutoff wheel works for me.


I do use the coarse drywall screws. Another helpful thing is to use the screws with the star head on them. I have a bunch of regular phillips head still and find that my impact drill I bought to install the drywall in the basement drives them in very well still.

I don't have any fiber cutoff wheels, although I do use the standard cut-off wheels to cut track with. The grinding head takes off the sharp points quite well. More than one way to skin a cat as they say.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

There are definitely solutions for the problem of protruding screw or nail heads, but far and away the best solution is just to use the right size to begin with.


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## riogrande (Apr 28, 2012)

CTValleyRR said:


> There are definitely solutions for the problem of protruding screw or nail heads, but far and away the best solution is just to use the right size to begin with.


Best for you. Fine.

But on my benchwork, I want "full-bite" with my screws in those 1x4 and 1x3 members. If the screw doesn't stick out a little, it's not "full bite". It may be sufficient to hold things together but in my opinion, I want things solid so that means they stick out a bit. I know how to mitigate the issue and I prefer my solution. For me, that is far and away the best solution.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

riogrande said:


> Best for you. Fine.
> 
> But on my benchwork, I want "full-bite" with my screws in those 1x4 and 1x3 members. If the screw doesn't stick out a little, it's not "full bite". It may be sufficient to hold things together but in my opinion, I want things solid so that means they stick out a bit. I know how to mitigate the issue and I prefer my solution. For me, that is far and away the best solution.


Having been a wood worker longer than I've been a model Railroader, I disagree. But you're entitled to your opinion.


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## riogrande (Apr 28, 2012)

CTValleyRR said:


> Having been a wood worker longer than I've been a model Railroader, I disagree. But you're entitled to your opinion.


Credentials to try to one up another forum member. Is the posturing really necessary? One-up-mans-ship? I'm not going to play that game. Adios.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

riogrande said:


> Credentials to try to one up another forum member. Is the posturing really necessary? One-up-mans-ship? I'm not going to play that game. Adios.


Credentials? No. One up? Certainly not. Disagree with your opinion that driving a screw fully through wood joints until it protrudes on the far side making any significant difference in the strength of the joint (never mind the other issues), based on many years of personal experience, definitely. You'd rather I just threw an unsupported statement out there? Just a "your wrong", without any basis for why I would say it? Wow. Ok. That's not my style.

Feel free to disagree. That's your prerogative.


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