# Easements -- the bane of my brain



## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Caveat -- I'm "instructionally challenged".
No matter how many times it's been explained to me, and no matter how many times I Google it, I cannot for the life of me understand the hocus pocus and voodoo behind calculating and laying easements!
Kill me now!

L.S.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

P.S. -- Just for the record, I haven't yet purchased an inch of track, because I haven't yet decided on which brand is best, or what Code to get it in.
Track is the signature of a layout, and I don't want to mess it up.

L.S.


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## johnfl68 (Feb 1, 2015)

Have you seen this document yet?

Trackwork, doing it right:
http://bellsandwhistles.us/modelrailroading/Clinic06_handout.pdf


There is a section that explains easements, maybe it will be of some help. Plus it has lots of other good information for the novice or professional.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Thanks John, the Offset was mostly my problem, and it was never explained to me that well before.
Now I just have to figure out what brand and Code to look for, and if Superelevation is either important or possible.

L.S.


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## santafewillie (Feb 13, 2016)

Superelevation is for looks mainly. That being said, I have recently read somewhere about "negative superelevation" where the inner rail is raised, being used with some success in helixes.
Willie


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## D&J Railroad (Oct 4, 2013)

Superelevation is possible in model railroading. It may not be as much a tilt as the prototypes but you can still do it.
The first step is getting your curves in place with easement. If you're using sectional track, forget it. Flex track lends itself well to easement and superelevation. There isn't a whole lot of work to do with the easement part. Flex track will almost automatically provide it's own easement when you lay it down. Doing the superelevation is a little more creative. I did my superelevation with the benchwork rather than shims under the ties. That was part of my benchwork design. Once track was in place and after a little over a year of letting the wood adjust to the basement atmosphere, I used a torpedo level to adjust the benchwork in the curves. Not a lot of tilt but enough that you notice it. I have a video clip somewhere that illustrates it but I just can't find it right now. I may just reshoot it and post it.


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## Brakeman Jake (Mar 8, 2009)

When I drew my trackplan I had easements in mind.However,I quickly was faced with a problem...layout size.Though desirable,easements (like grades) eat up a lot of landscape in no time,wich makes them too "expensive" on small layout.

My choice was simple...either go with tighter radius curves with easements or go for the largest radius curves possible without easements.I elected for the larger curves.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

I heard somewhere that someone makes one-piece polystyrene superelevation shims, in half and quarter circles, for different radii.
If true, it would greatly simplify and enhance the process!!
Problem is -- no luck finding it anywhere on Google.

L.S.


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## Chet (Aug 15, 2014)

When I started my layout, I never had a track plan, but did have a plan mentally of what I wanted. I started the layout by hand laying code 70 track and turnouts. I went to code 70 because I had just torn out a large N scale layout and besides the lausy locomotives of the late 70's, the oversize rail in N scale also was a gripe. 

I wanted to keep as broad a radius as I could. I had plenty of room but in one place my minimum radius is 32 inches. Most of the other curves are a lot broader some being well over 40 inches. Later in the building of the layout I started using flex track. 

An easement is nice to have as a train will EASE into a curve instead of going from a straight section of track immediately into a curve. Not only does it look better, it can help eliminate derailments. Using flex track can make easements almost a no brainer. I gave up using sectional track long before I started my N scale layout. Fewer rail joints and not having to be limited to certain radius curves made all of the difference in the world. 

I also super elevated my curves. It didn't take much. I used index cards cut to the approximate radius of the curve and shimmed the outside rail with it. It is noticeable and I have no problems with it unless I pull a long train. One curve is at the top of a 2 % grade and I can see cars at the front of the train looking a bit tipsy at the top of the Grade. This is on a 60 car train with three locomotives at the head end. I guess if I were to cut a helper in mid train that it would eliminate that situation.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Chet, I've heard and read that like you, many use index or business cards for superelevation shimming. I don't have one handy, but I'm guessing they're about .020".

L.S.


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## Chet (Aug 15, 2014)

LateStarter said:


> Chet, I've heard and read that like you, many use index or business cards for superelevation shimming. I don't have one handy, but I'm guessing they're about .020".
> 
> L.S.


I had some Standard 3 x 5 index cards handy and used them. You don't want too thick of a shim. Just used what I happened to have had on hand.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

D&J Railroad said:


> The first step is getting your curves in place with easement. If you're using sectional track, forget it.


You can sorta-kinda do a half-as... er, baked job of an easement with sectional track by sticking one segment of a larger radius at the end of a curve (provided both segments are the same degrees of arc).

I tried it on my first layout, and it worked... but it busted the geometry of the whole layout, and looked like crap to boot.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Cool.
I don't believe I woulda' thought of that.


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## lajrmdlr (Apr 25, 2014)

LateStarter said:


> Caveat -- I'm "instructionally challenged".
> No matter how many times it's been explained to me, and no matter how many times I Google it, I cannot for the life of me understand the hocus pocus and voodoo behind calculating and laying easements!
> Kill me now!
> 
> L.S.


There's easy ways to "make easements using flex track" is to Google what's in quotes.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

Flex track that flexes easily makes its own easement. Micro-Engineering track easements must be fashioned by hand.

When creating super-elevation, less is more. I would avoid more than a disparity of 6 scale inches across the two rail tops.

The shims should probably NOT be of a material that could swell with moisture. Most of us will ballast the tracks, and that almost always means wetting it first and then adding a dilute adhesive medium of some kind. I learned to save the clear plastic packaging that one must cut with a knife or with scissors because it is thermally sealed and crimped at the edges, the kind that a tool or an electronic item might come in. That material can be used for glazing in structure kits if you run short, but it also won't swell when water-based fluids are placed on it. It makes great shim-stock for super-elevating curves. It's also close to 6" thick in HO scale.


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

LateStarter said:


> I heard somewhere that someone makes one-piece polystyrene superelevation shims, in half and quarter circles, for different radii.
> If true, it would greatly simplify and enhance the process!!
> Problem is -- no luck finding it anywhere on Google..


.

If you want to use styrene shims instead of cardboard, you could get sheet styrene and cut your own curves. Flat sheets are easy to find. Also, the pre-made curves probably won't fit your easements.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Easy easements*

Latestarter;

Easements don't have to be done with math, let alone Voodoo. As several have said, flex track tends to set its own easement, but there is another simple way. Once you have picked a minimum curve radius, (pick the biggest you can fit) you can draw a straight line where you want the "tangent",(a.k.a.straight) track's center line to be. Draw your curve with a long stick with a nail at one end and a pencil at the other. This thing is called a, "trammel" and functions like a drawing compass on steroids. The curve should be drawn first and the straight stopped about a foot short of meeting the curve, and an inch or two wider out on the table than the curve's end. Now drive three or more nails along both sides of your straight center line. Leave just enough space between the nails to lay about six inches of one end of a wood yardstick, on edge, between the nails.
Bend the free end of the yardstick until it meets the curve. Run a pencil along the yardstick from straight to curve. Remove the yardstick and admire your new easement. This method, along with the math version, are in the book,
"Track planning for realistic operation" by John Armstrong. The book is out of print, but you should be able to get a used copy online (E-Bay, Amazon, Etc.)
You might also find, or be able to order, it from the public library. It's a great book, that explains a lot of things about planning a layout. It may seem a bit overwhelming, at first, since you're a beginner, but it's worth any effort you have to put in on it.
Both methods are illustrated in the book, as well as how to make easement templates based on your favorite radius. The illustrations, and Armstrong's explanation, will make it more clear than I can here. It took me about the same time to explain the yardstick method verbally as it would have to actually do it.

Good Luck;

Traction Fan


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Great info!


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

I was actually thinking that easements would be easy to do with flex track -- glad to see so many here have already confirmed that theory!

One question I have about superelevating the curves, why do you need a flat 'sheet' to raise the outside rail? Couldn't you just use a thin strip of plastic that could be bent to follow under the outside edge of the ties, then let your track glue / ballast / etc. fill in the gap under the ties?

One more question... how would superelevating work with an area that has a loose S-curve? For example, 18" radius curves with a 9" straight between them. Would superelevating be helpful with keeping the cars from tipping over, or would it make it worse? To make matters even more extreme, this is happening on an incline, but due to my tight space, I can't really do any more to improve the path of the track.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Shdwdrgn, I had the same thought.
And your S curve sounds awesome!


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

Shdwdrgn said:


> I was actually thinking that easements would be easy to do with flex track -- glad to see so many here have already confirmed that theory!
> 
> One question I have about superelevating the curves, why do you need a flat 'sheet' to raise the outside rail? Couldn't you just use a thin strip of plastic that could be bent to follow under the outside edge of the ties, then let your track glue / ballast / etc. fill in the gap under the ties?
> 
> One more question... how would superelevating work with an area that has a loose S-curve? For example, 18" radius curves with a 9" straight between them. Would superelevating be helpful with keeping the cars from tipping over, or would it make it worse? To make matters even more extreme, this is happening on an incline, but due to my tight space, I can't really do any more to improve the path of the track.


Your S curve with a radius much under 24" will give you a lot of headaches. I would strongly urge you to forego it entirely, maybe even the S curve itself(depends, haven't seen the track plan...), but especially at 19". If you must, use half-thickness, say 1/32".

As for your first question about bent strips....why bent? If your roadbed is level, or on a consistent grade, and curved, you only want the outer ties' ends raised about 4-6 scale inches. Just use strips of the clear thin plastic, the flattest parts, that you can cut from packaging of scissors, pliers, and other items.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

@mesenteria: As I said, I don't have much choice about the S. Are you suggesting eliminating the S-curve, or not using superelevation on the S?

Regarding bent strips... I'm talking about using something like a round rod instead of flat strips. The rod can easily follow the curve of the track, I'm just not sure how it would support the track over long term usage. The advantage would be ease of installation, instead of having to cut a bunch of short, straight strips and position each correctly.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

An S curve is fine, even scenic and charming, _if_ it is about as long as your longest item of rolling stock, especially with couplers mounted to the frame. As your radii get shorter and your cars longer, there's where you will find an S curve turning into a Headache curve.

I think I understand what you mean by a rod...more like a wire, maybe a 22 gauge telephone type wire shaped so that it lies near the outer edges of the ties on the outside of the curve? Sure, that would work, provided it stays in place. You would want to embed it in a light coating of acrylic latex caulking which is what most of us would use to adhere the ties to the roadbed anyway. I haven't tried that, but I don't see a problem with it. I just find I have lots of that clear thin plastic to cut up into strips long enough to go under three or four ties at a time.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Shdwdrgn said:


> @mesenteria: As I said, I don't have much choice about the S. Are you suggesting eliminating the S-curve, or not using superelevation on the S?
> 
> Regarding bent strips... I'm talking about using something like a round rod instead of flat strips. The rod can easily follow the curve of the track, I'm just not sure how it would support the track over long term usage. The advantage would be ease of installation, instead of having to cut a bunch of short, straight strips and position each correctly.


I would say that it's not so much a problem of following the curve of the track, but the necessity of doing so. Once everything is covered in ballast, it won't show anyway. How long does it take to cut a bunch of short, straight strips (although when I did it, I used strips that were about an inch long), a compared to trying to form something under the rails?


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Yeah, plenty of options, and of course everyone will use whatever works for them. I just wanted to throw out a different idea because I had never seen it mentioned before.

As for the S-curve... I'm modeling around 1905 so my longest piece of equipment may likely be the locos themselves or possibly some 50' flat cars with the larger majority being in the 35-40' range. My passenger train will be on the narrow gauge line, so still likely only to be around 40'. Other than the transition turnouts between mainlines, my shortest piece between curves is around 8", so almost twice as long as most of the planned rolling stock.


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## santafealltheway (Nov 27, 2012)

Personally, i would just purchase a set of radius tools. Little metal things you slide along between the rails.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

santafealltheway said:


> Personally, i would just purchase a set of radius tools. Little metal things you slide along between the rails.


Those work fine for creating smooth curves. But for superelevating track or creating easements, they won't help at all.

Fasttracks makes wooden ones that you can assemble into a hybrid radius tool with varying radii, but that's as close as you could come.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

I seem to remember that Lynn Westcott (sp?) was one of the first (or possibly THE first) to bring easements to our attention in MR Magazine.

His original article called them "Transition Curves".


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## santafealltheway (Nov 27, 2012)

CTValleyRR said:


> Those work fine for creating smooth curves. But for superelevating track or creating easements, they won't help at all.
> 
> Fasttracks makes wooden ones that you can assemble into a hybrid radius tool with varying radii, but that's as close as you could come.


Sure they help, Start with the biggest, tack down a few inches, then move on to the next smaller radius, tack down a few inches, etc, etc... Looks fine to me.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

santafealltheway said:


> Sure they help, Start with the biggest, tack down a few inches, then move on to the next smaller radius, tack down a few inches, etc, etc... Looks fine to me.


So how do you deal with the bulk of the radius tool that is in the wrong radius? Let it ride up and over the rails? If you're doing that and laying down a couple inches only, how do you ensure that you don't have a kink between the two radii?

Hence the reason for recommending the Fasttracks tools, which can be assembled in increments of about 3 inches.


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## Chip (Feb 11, 2016)

Woodland scenics makes excellent riser starters in 2-3-4% grades. I found an excellent grade calculator at Model builders.org that eliminates the need for pre-made risers. 

Enter your run and rise and it will tell you the grade, very handy.


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## bluenavigator (Aug 30, 2015)

Do you mean at this URL - http://www.modelbuildings.org/free-track-grade-calculator.html - ?


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