# DCC



## RJC (Nov 30, 2017)

Looking at DCC for my S scale locomotives. This is all new to me.
Is there a particular system(s) I should look at for S scale?


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## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

RJC said:


> Looking at DCC for my S scale locomotives. This is all new to me.
> Is there a particular system(s) I should look at for S scale?


I don't know much about DCC as I only run conventional but found this online that may give you some help.http://www.precisionflyerrepairs.com/converting-af-to-dcc.html


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## RJC (Nov 30, 2017)

Thank you.


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## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

You didn't say what kind of engines you are using but some of the American Models and I think the former "S" Helper engines could be ordered with DC motors which would eliminate the swapping out of AC motors that most Gilbert engines came with. I'm not sure of the new MTH engines as far as what's used for power. There is a DCC sub-forum here that might be useful for information as well as getting answers to questions if you post them on there.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

You might get the information you want
at this site:

http://www.bristol-s-gauge.com/DCC/DCC.html

Don


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## 2genflyers (Jan 14, 2013)

RJC - I am certainly NO authority on the subject, in fact I am likely only a step or two ahead of you. A little over a year ago I purchased a system from Digitrax. While shopping I also considered NCE but settled on Digitraxx as the retailer was offering great deal on the Digitraxx. Both systems are really nice. NCE might be a bit more user friendly, especially the manual but I figured out the Digitraxx...and I'm no rocket-surgeon. Since then I have installed DCC in three AF steamers from the late 40's and four in American Model diesels. All but one of the decoders were Soundtraxx ECO-400's. I chose these decoders because they are rated for 2 amps continuous (4 peak). The other decoder was a Digitrax SDH166 which was installed in an American Models Baldwin S12...which draws less power at stall.
All the installs went well, but I would be lying if I said they were easy. Every install was different with it's own challenges. I have had no significant issues since install. No blow-ups, burn-outs, or failures. If you want more realism in your railroading I highly recommend going DCC. Mine are all sound equipped. Many of the parameters are customizable....sound, lighting, etc. Perhaps the biggest improvement has been in slow speed control, reversing and consistency (no stoppages as a result of poor connections/continuity. 

A couple take-aways from my experience (not gospel)...

1. You will need can-motors in all the locos which you wish to equip with DCC. Don't bother purchasing the Dallee electronic reverse-unit as it will be redundant. If you want MAX realism then consider the "scale-speed" motors, often called half-speed motors. I can still get my locos up to a scale speed of approximately 60mph (the A.M. units at over 90) The scale speed motors will have the added benefit of providing even BETTER slow speed control. After fiddling with "back-emf" and other settings on the decoders I've got my locos crawling along on 1 speed step at under 3-4mph scale speed.

2. Make sure your know the power draw at stall for each loco and purchase an appropriately rated decoder. The power draw can vary by a factor of 3X or 4X I have an Atlantic which is SUPER free running which draws .23 amps on its own and less than 1 amp while pulling 13 cars. My Northern draws over 1.2 amps on it's own but nearly 3 with a large consist (20+).

3. Given what I just told you about power draw and decoder rating....that can be improved/reduced. Most can-motors when bolted to an old AF steamer DON'T have optimal alignment with the gears. If you don't believe me, just try this. Check the power draw with the motor firmly bolted in place and the loco "free-running" (no-load). Then with it still running, slightly loosen one mounting bolt, then the other, all the while watching the power draw. The power will likely drop. What is happening is the worm gear is permitted to find its best alignment when the motor is loose. Then try pushing in various directions on the motor housing. You will likely see the power swing WAY up and down. You might even get it to drop further in one particular orientation. If so, use shims to repeat that orientation when the motor is bolted down. It will take some trial and error, but it will be worth it. The Atlantic started out at .7 amps and after fiddling with the alignment I got it down to .23 amps. Sounds MUCH happier now.

4. Why do you want to optimize the efficiency of the motors? Because you might be able to use HO decoders which are both cheaper and smaller. I have since discovered the motor alignment/power-draw trick and now could use HO sized decoders in two of my locos rather than the larger ECO-400...making the install MUCH easier and saving about $100.

5. Be realistic about the number of cars you plan on pulling. There is the _MEASURED_ power draw at stall...and then there is the _PRACTICAL_ max power draw your locos will ever see. Few of your locos will ever stall... even with LOOOONG consists. Most often they will lose traction before they stall....even with Pulmor tires. And if you only run short consists you might be able to run HO decoders on most of your locos.

6. Purchase a current-keeper (keep-alive) for any loco with questionable contact to the track. The larger A.M. diesels don't need one... but most old AF units DO. They will lose contact over turnouts and even a brief interruption of power to a decoder will cause it to reset to "0". 

Hope this helps. Just my two cents.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

2genflyers has given you a pretty comprehensive run down. I’m in HO so can’t comment on the conversion of locos but I would say that NCE system is great as far as ease of use, ergonomics and programming go, it’s about as good as it gets. Digitrax stuff is fine technically but you’ll struggle until you get familiar with it. Their hand held units are a very odd design with those pegs which have little to differentiate them.


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## 2genflyers (Jan 14, 2013)

AGREED. Digitrax works but it looks antiquated with the "pegs"!
hwell:


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## upsman55 (Jan 11, 2013)

Thanks for the posts in this thread. Ive been interested in doing a conversion on one of my flyers, but trying to figure out how to start from scratch has been confusing and a bit intimidating. This helps a bit.


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