# Brass Hybrid Repainting Project



## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

I started the repaint project for my new brass-hybrid Mikado this morning. I've decided to post now update this thread from time to time as I go along, to fully share what I do, what works, what mistakes (hopefully none) I make, and show how it goes, for good or bad, as I go along. 

In the past, I've repainted about twenty locos, most famously (or notoriously) re-doing my Legacy N&W J in UP greyhound, and with very few exceptions, never disassembled the loco: I always just use hours of detailed masking of where I don't want paint to go. I always use rattle cans too - no airbrush.

I intend to:
1) Prime all surfaces using Rustoleum gray primer.
2) Let that dry and harden one full week. I know the directions say you can paint within an hour, but I get better results if its not only dry, but hard.
3) Use Rustoleum satin black, and again, let it dry and harden a whole week. But if I can find a satin lacquer, I'll go with that (heading out to the hardware store now).
4)So this won't be done until sometime in March, probably.

In this case I have decided I will disassemble it prior to painting, at least the tender (still thinking about the loco). I've done that only once or twice before (my philosphy is why tempt fate with disassembly when several hours of careful masking will do the job?). There were a lot of parts, as you see in the first photos.








I leave myself lots of notes on re-assembly, scratched into the top of the chassis, so I can get it back together right. In this case the same diameter, but much short screws, were used to attached some parts here, so I made a note in this place that is typical, just a reminder that the "shorter screws here."


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Truthfully Lee, taking the shell off a modern locomotive is normally not that daunting, and it sure would make the painting a lot easier! I know I've done it hundreds of times, but it really isn't that difficult.


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## Norton (Nov 5, 2015)

Lee, doesn't this engine have a clear coat on it? If so you could skip the primer.

Pete


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## Guest (Feb 14, 2018)

This will be an interesting project to follow.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Norton said:


> Lee, doesn't this engine have a clear coat on it? If so you could skip the primer.
> 
> Pete


It sure doesn't look like it to me, just like bare metal, but if so it is a mighty thin, flat coat and the slightly rough metal surface needs a primer to smooth it out. And I won't take the chance anyway on painting over a clearcoat I don't know well. I know the Rustoleum primer clings well and flattens out over anything I've ever sprayed it on (except oil  ) and then takes paint well, so I will do the primer.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Truthfully Lee, taking the shell off a modern locomotive is normally not that daunting, and it sure would make the painting a lot easier! I know I've done it hundreds of times, but it really isn't that difficult.


Yes. I recall a Legacy U30C that was ruined when I took the shell off to repair it - body was warped and never would go back on right. so I'm overly conservative. But this needed to come off because it is a complete bare metal repaint.

The shell is off the loco now. No problem. I will post pictures later. It was straightforward to remove.


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## seayakbill (Jan 16, 2016)

Fun project, will be following the progress, hopefully no roadblocks along the way.

Bill


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## Krieglok (Sep 7, 2013)

You are more of a man than I am. I always farmed out my brass painting...

Tom


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## PatKn (Jul 14, 2015)

Looking forward to following your progress on this project, Lee. Thanks for sharing.


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

The note scratched in the chassis made me cringe a little. Looks like a steel chassis and it might develop some rust by the time your grandchildren have kids. I use white stick-on address labels (Avery 5167) to write myself notes like that.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Lehigh74 said:


> The note scratched in the chassis made me cringe a little. Looks like a steel chassis and it might develop some rust by the time your grandchildren have kids. I use white stick-on address labels (Avery 5167) to write myself notes like that.


I'll put some paint over it when done. I've learned stick on labels can come off!


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

The tender is in primer now. 

The loco is shown below after removing the body. I masked the wiring and smoke unit off, then painted the interior of the cab flat black. that will dry overnight. Tomorrow I will primer the loco body.


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## Fabforrest (Aug 31, 2015)

Not wasting any time, are you? How will you handle the whistle?


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

Lee Willis said:


> I'll put some paint over it when done. I've learned stick on labels can come off!


True, but I generally use them when I only need a temporary reminder.


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## Spence (Oct 15, 2015)

The start of an interesting project. :thumbsup: I don't know if I could do it; I like shiny.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Lee Willis said:


> Yes. I recall a Legacy U30C that was ruined when I took the shell off to repair it - body was warped and never would go back on right. so I'm overly conservative. But this needed to come off because it is a complete bare metal repaint.
> 
> The shell is off the loco now. No problem. I will post pictures later. It was straightforward to remove.


Lee, the U30 is a somewhat special case, they're in two pieces and I've seen several that never went on right. I have taken the shell off one of my Legacy U-Boats, no issues getting it back on.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Spence said:


> The start of an interesting project. :thumbsup: I don't know if I could do it; I like shiny.


It wasn't that shiny at all. The tender is a bit shinier than the loco but even it was not polished shiny, but a bit dull. As to the loco, most of it looks exactly like yellow-tinted pot metal, frankly. The metal inside and out has a satiny yellow-gold color with a bit of mottling locally for slightly different patina in random patterns all over it. All of it has a very very fine grain to its surface - except for the color it looks _exactly _like the metal and surfaces of old (1960s) Carter and Rochester carburetors.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I have to say, I've never been a big fan of the unpainted locomotives, so I like the fact that you're painting this one.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I have to say, I've never been a big fan of the unpainted locomotives, so I like the fact that you're painting this one.


I know - to me all of them are interesting to look at - for a short while, as you study all the parts, etc. Then it's sort of "What do I do with this now?" 

IF it was shiny and polished, I might think a second time, but I wanted the painted Santa Fe version, but I didn't pre-order, and feel lucky to get this one. 

Apparently the painted version has a custom sound file from the actual loco that my loco does not have, but I will be happy enough with this one once I get it painted well.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Everything I plan to spray paint and not do by hand is in primer now - and dry to the touch. It looks very good. No flaws I can see although I have no gone over it quarter inch by quarter inch as I will before I prepare it for paint. 

I moved it all down to my study today. It will sit and harden for another six days now. During that time I will paint/neolube the chassis and drivers/rods, etc., and play with three different shades/patinas of black paint to decide which I want to use on it. 

Putting a loco, particular a steamer, in gray primer like this always makes it look interesting - better in my opinion for bringing out the detail and such than the raw "brass" look.


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## Scotie (Sep 27, 2013)

Many of the steam era builders photos were painted in grey for this reason. Real black hides the details, you'll probably prefer a "weathered black" as it is a nicely detailed model.


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## Guest (Feb 15, 2018)

You are moving quickly on this project. Good for you.


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## Big Jim (Nov 17, 2015)

Why did you paint the interior of the cab black, only to come back and paint primer on it?

Is there a way to take the cab off?


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## SDIV Tim (Nov 19, 2015)

Nice job Lee, keep it up 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Big Jim said:


> Why did you paint the interior of the cab black, only to come back and paint primer on it?
> 
> Is there a way to take the cab off?


I just filled in the cab with flat black primer paint first because I knew the spray primer would never get into the nooks and crannies, which I painted into all of them by literally pushing and twirling a brush with black paint around back in ever corner,etc. Best to do the sloppy work early. I didn't really go for spraying the grey primer INTO the cab, but some overspray crept into the cab through open windows, etc. which is fine. Main goal is to have everything covered with that hand-applied paint (a flat black primer) or the grey primer. I'll go back and spend a couple of hours painting the cab when I complete it, repainting the fixtures, doing the instruments, etc.


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## Big Jim (Nov 17, 2015)

So, is there a way to take the cab off?


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Big Jim said:


> So, is there a way to take the cab off?


No, it is case as one piece with the body.


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## Big Jim (Nov 17, 2015)

Lee Willis said:


> No, it is case as one piece with the body.


What a Bummer!


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## Norton (Nov 5, 2015)

Pretty standard on brass engines to have the cab soldered to the body. This first exception I have recently encountered is the Smithsonian Hudson/Williams Masterpiece where the cab is screwed on.

Pete


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## Big Jim (Nov 17, 2015)

Norton said:


> Pretty standard on brass engines to have the cab soldered to the body. This first exception I have recently encountered is the Smithsonian Hudson/Williams Masterpiece where the cab is screwed on.
> 
> Pete


Strange, most that I ever worked on, the cab could be taken off, but, that was long ago and far away.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Norton said:


> Pretty standard on brass engines to have the cab soldered to the body. This first exception I have recently encountered is the Smithsonian Hudson/Williams Masterpiece where the cab is screwed on.
> 
> Pete





Big Jim said:


> Strange, most that I ever worked on, the cab could be taken off, but, that was long ago and far away.


Guys, the locomotive is _*not *_ sheet brass. It is cast metal, much like the bodies on most steamers, but it looks dyed or stained (not painted) a golden color. Since Lionel says "with a brass body and tender" in their catalog, I will take them at their word and say that that must be what cast brass looks like, but it looks and feels exactly like tinted pot metal to me. And as far as I could see, the cab and boiler all looked to be one piece to me. That is normal for most cast locos, so no surprise.

The tender, and its looks like maybe the cab roof, are sheet brass. Various pipes, tanks and such, are clearly cast brass, too. 

Anyway, it all took the primer very well. The cast brass has a tiny rough patina when you get in really close, something you car barely see, but can feel with your fingertips, much like the rough surface of 3D printed plastic, but an even finer "grain." Cloest to filling like #400 sandpaper I'd say. Maybe #600. The primer covered and smoothed over it perfectly. If I can do the top coats well, this ought to be a really good looking loco.


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## Norton (Nov 5, 2015)

Very interesting Lee though it seems if its cast brass then molds would have had to be made. If thats the case then they could have just made them of zamac.
I would have assumed all the detail parts are cast but not the body too.

Pete


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## Big Jim (Nov 17, 2015)

Cast eh? That is surprising.
Well, you know what Demo Dickie has to say about that..."Never assume!"


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## c.midland (Sep 22, 2015)

I'm curious what you use to sand/scuff the primer after it hardens so the topcoat adheres?
Seems like a tedious job using sandpaper or scotchbrite pads. 
With Rustoleum I usually follow the topcoat directions so I don't have to sand the primer before painting. My experience with Rustoleum is automotive, so there may be a different/better process for models. 
This should be an amazing looking model in satin black!


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

c.midland said:


> I'm curious what you use to sand/scuff the primer after it hardens so the topcoat adheres?
> Seems like a tedious job using sandpaper or scotchbrite pads.
> With Rustoleum I usually follow the topcoat directions so I don't have to sand the primer before painting. My experience with Rustoleum is automotive, so there may be a different/better process for models.
> This should be an amazing looking model in satin black!


In past repaints (between two and three dozen) of steam and diesel locos and about two dozen model ships, I used this primer and never sanded it before painting. My view is that it is made for paint to stick to, and that has proven right. It have never had any problems with paint, either sprayed enamel or lacquer or brushed on enamel, lacquer or latex. It always goes go on smoothly and sticks well - very well. That's why I use only the Rustoleum gray primer. The secret in my experience is to let it dry AND harden for a whole week. 

I used to paint cars way back when and I did sand primer then but I used the dark maroon rustproofing primer which was far different stuff.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

That's news to me Lee! I didn't realize that their "brass" locomotives were really just castings like the pot metal ones they typically make. I think most folks expect saying it's "brass" means that it has lots of separately applied detail, not mostly casting.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> That's news to me Lee! I didn't realize that their "brass" locomotives were really just castings like the pot metal ones they typically make. I think most folks expect saying it's "brass" means that it has lots of separately applied detail, not mostly casting.


I suppose many of us expect that a "brass loco" is made entirely of _sheet_ brass for the loco body and tender body, with cast brass pieces only for all those tiny pieces that are attached. Certainly all of us have seen brass locos like that. 

So I think most of us expected GRJ 

But this "hybrid brass" loco (whatever that really world "hybrid" means), clearly has a cast body to the loco. For example the post on the cab side, between the two windows, is a good 1/8 inch thick, and the bands around the boiler are cast in, no soldered on, etc. The boiler seems to be about 2 mm thick and its thinnest - same as with normal pot metal locos.

At first, I thought that the loco was just tinted pot metal, but I went and read: first, Lionel's catalog description of the loco, which says it has both a brass loco and tender (I doubt they would lie in a case like this) and second, a wikipedia article about brass, which apparently would cast just great in molds made for the normal zinc-y pot metal used in most steamers. I think that is what Lionel did: just case brass instead of the normal metal. 

I am perfectly fine with this. To me, the important thing is that the loco has the detail one expects of a brass loco. It is covered with "separately applied" pieces and has intricate detail. I think this loco will be spectacular when done.


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## Norton (Nov 5, 2015)

Just a guess here but if the brass engine was made in mold it may have been done with lost wax like the small castings. Zamac models are injection molded. Those molds can cost upwards of 6 figures which is one reason neither MTH or Lionel is making many new prototypes these days.

Pete


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Norton said:


> Just a guess here but if the brass engine was made in mold it may have been done with lost wax like the small castings. Zamac models are injection molded. Those molds can cost upwards of 6 figures which is one reason neither MTH or Lionel is making many new prototypes these days.
> 
> Pete


Could be. But regardless, I like it, and even at that cost, would like to see more.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

AN UPDATE:
It has been a full week since I put on the primer. I said at the time it is my practice to wait a full week for the primer to not only dry, but harden. I checked this morning and have decided to let it sit and harden over the weekend, and start the top coat next week. 

Comment on my practice. "Hardening" is my term - I have no idea what a paint expert would call this. I suppose one could call it "drying completely all the way through" Experience and a good deal of caution have taught me that painting goes much better when I let the primer dry and "harden" at least two days. An abundance of caution here made me go into the project planning for a full week for it to harden. Now I have decided to let it harden another four days.

Experience and caution: I've had repaints go bad when the primer is not completely hard. It's semi-random, in the sense it did not always happen, but none of this ever happens if I wait a week for the primer to dry and "harden."
1) A spray on top-coat of enamel will pucker and bring up small waves on the primer underneath, basically loosening it and making it liquid again. Yuck. Have to start all over. 
2) Some areas will be flat and rough, as if the paint doesn't like to stick - at least with some paints. 
3) Lacquers may really not go on well.
None of these problems happen if I wait, so I do.

This primer (Rustoleum gray primer) usually dries to the touch in one to two hours. I normally leave it, though, until it "hardens" -dries completely all the way through. Nearly always that is a week. But this time, feeling the primer all over the loco body and tender, there are places that don't feel "hardened." The primer feels dry, but when it has not completely hardened, it feels cool and plastic to the fingertips, just slightly. Anyway, I feel that in a few places where I think I got the primer especially thick - or maybe on bare metal it needs more time to harden, or maybe winter weather is slowing the drying process down. Regardless, time heals any wounds here. 
Here are pics taken this morning.


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## c.midland (Sep 22, 2015)

I think the term your looking for is "cure". Spray primer/paint has no hardener in it. 
Please don't take this as nit-picking. You just mentioned you didn't know what term a painter would use.
Being able to work with Rustoleum makes you the expert. It's probably one of the hardest spray paint systems to work with.


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## Fabforrest (Aug 31, 2015)

“Being able to work with Rustoleum makes you the expert. It's probably one of the hardest spray paint systems to work with.”

Why is that?


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Fabforrest said:


> “Being able to work with Rustoleum makes you the expert. It's probably one of the hardest spray paint systems to work with.”
> 
> Why is that?


I have never found it particularly hard to work with. It dries slower than many other rattle car paints, particularly Krylon paint, which may be why many people don't like it as much. But I prefer it. Back when I painted cars I learned the way to a consistent finish is to keep everything you are painting at the same time "wet." Easier to do if it takes longer to dry. 

But you learn a technique and it becomes the easiest to use, because that technique works for you. That's if for me.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Caution is always good Lee, can't wait to see the finished product.


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## Spence (Oct 15, 2015)

I envy you with the amount of patience you have. I'd have a hard time waiting a week to paint again.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Spence said:


> I envy you with the amount of patience you have. I'd have a hard time waiting a week to paint again.


It pays to have several projects in the air at once. I can work on something else until this one is ready.


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## c.midland (Sep 22, 2015)

Fab, there's nothing really difficult with Rustoleum. It's more of the ability to adapt to it, which Lee has done successfully. 

Almost every hardware and big chain store sells Rustoleum. It's formulated for everyone to use it easily on almost anything, which usually makes it perfect for almost nothing. Between not being able to tell how long it's been on the shelf, the formula changes made, batch quality, nozzle changes, etc., it's diffucult for those of us that use it frequently to get consistent results. I've had a can of Rustoleum paint that wasn't compatible with Rustoleum primer, due to a formula change that was not announced, a new can that wouldn't spray, leaky nozzles, and issues with it never curing.

Bear in mind that I've used a lot of it in the past, not just on a few models. I still use it around the house and auto for non-critical situations that don't require UV protection. I'm afraid to use it on a LaBelle model that I spent hours building, though. 

I absolutely would not say that if someone uses it and it works, that their project is in some way substandard. Amazing work can be done with Rustoleum as Lee has demonstrated many times. Lee has already identified 2 of Rustoleums characteristics, long dry time and inconsistent cure time, and successfully overcome them. 

There is absolutely no reason to think that this loco won't turn out better than factory. History would indicate that it should turn out very nice.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

c.midland said:


> Fab, there's nothing really difficult with Rustoleum. It's more of the ability to adapt to it, which Lee has done successfully.
> 
> Almost every hardware and big chain store sells Rustoleum. It's formulated for everyone to use it easily on almost anything, which usually makes it perfect for almost nothing. Between not being able to tell how long it's been on the shelf, the formula changes made, batch quality, nozzle changes, etc., it's diffucult for those of us that use it frequently to get consistent results. I've had a can of Rustoleum paint that wasn't compatible with Rustoleum primer, due to a formula change that was not announced, a new can that wouldn't spray, leaky nozzles, and issues with it never curing.
> 
> ...


Those are good points. One thing I have learned is: buy new Primer and paint for each project. I learned this the hard way. As you said, some paints were incompatible with old primer. What I got was not pretty and took a week just to remove the "Yuck" before I could start over. 

For this project I bought a brand new can of primer, and one each of the four black colors I am considering using - flat, satin, semi gloss and the lacquer. Mostly likely it will be the satin, but I bought one of each. I view it as the cost of getting good results.


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## c.midland (Sep 22, 2015)

I used Rustoleum satin black over black epoxy primer in the engine compartment of my 1966 Mustang. I used a quart can and spray gun, and though somewhat difficult to paint, it flowed out well and gave a factory like finish when cured.

I think the satin black would be a very good choice on your loco. It goes more to the dull side, but has enough sheen to help show the details and give it a well-maintained look without looking toy-like. It will go on glossy and possibly a little "rough" looking, but if you let it cure at room temperature (no heat), I think you'll like the results.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Update:

I put the top coat on this morning using Rustoleum satin black spray. I put on a thick coat and it may take ten days for it dry and cure, too. If so, fine. I can wait. 

The paint seems to have taken well and there were no problems I saw, beyond one errantic dust flake of monstrous size that somehow attached itself to the tender near the end. Not sure how that happened, but I'll deal with it later. 

It's still wet and shiny - tomorrow I will post pics later when its "dry to the look."


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## balidas (Jun 3, 2011)

c.midland said:


> I think the term your looking for is "cure". Spray primer/paint has no hardener in it.
> Please don't take this as nit-picking. You just mentioned you didn't know what term a painter would use.


I agree. Whenever I've painted a house, especially interior I have always recommended that folks wait at least a month before installing face plates, hanging paintings whatever, in order to give the paint time to set & cure because these things could adhere to the paint & when you go to remove them you could start pulling paint off the walls.

Take your time Lee. You are doing this right.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

As much time as it takes. It's been two hours since I sprayed. The paint has dried to satin now and looks very much like a new factory paint job. I'm very pleased. It will sit, un-disturbed, for a week or more now.


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## Volphin (Dec 7, 2015)

Lee Willis said:


> Update:
> 
> The paint seems to have taken well and there were no problems I saw, beyond one errantic dust flake of monstrous size that somehow attached itself to the tender near the end. Not sure how that happened, but I'll deal with it later.


There always seems to be dust when I'm painting too. It doesn't matter how much I tack cloth it or use prep. There's always a speck sitting in my paint, mocking me.


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## c.midland (Sep 22, 2015)

In a week or so, you might be able to polish the dust out. It's pretty amazing how good Rustoleum looks when polished. The downside is it'll be a little shinier than the rest of the paint. 

I've got a MTH 19th century 2-8-0 that I polished the lettering off the tender and decided to polish the whole thing. It gives the look of a prototypical well maintained locomotive.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

The loco and tender are back together now. It took all morning. Amazing how much longer it takes to re-assemble a loco as compared to taking it apart!!! 

I am very pleased with the paint job. Again, the tender and loco bodies were sprayed with Rustoleum, while the frames, chassis, trucks, etc. were hand painted. 

I ran it for the first time this morning - I actually never even put it on the rails before taking it apart. I should have to make sure it was okay, but . . . I didn't. Anyway, it runs fine. In fact it is a really sweet little loco. It sure smokes well, I'll give it that. Sound is great, lights, bell, whistle, etc., etc. work.

I have another morning of work: I have to put the bell back on (I'm going to polish if first), do a bunch of touch up painting in spots, and reinstall (better) windows on the sides of the cab. Below are pics of it this morning. I forgot to take the tape covering the headlight off before taking these pictures - but it works fine - nice and bright.

And of course, I have to apply the decals. It will be Canon City (my Canon City, Blanca and Glen Canyon Railroad), I'll post again when it is all done.


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## Bob Phillips (Nov 25, 2014)

Very nice job Lee.


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## Maxum (Apr 10, 2017)

Lee Willis said:


> View attachment 418385


Looking good Lee! Quick question, is that Atlas track?


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## PatKn (Jul 14, 2015)

Nice looking engine, Lee. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Maxum said:


> Looking good Lee! Quick question, is that Atlas track?


Yes, Atlas flextrack.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Nice looking paint job, you get very good results with the rattle cans.


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## PW Trains (Nov 5, 2015)

That is a fine looking Mikado! Your modeling skills never cease to amaze.

What is the minimum radius of this engine?


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## Spence (Oct 15, 2015)

Looking good Lee.:appl:


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

PW Trains said:


> That is a fine looking Mikado! Your modeling skills never cease to amaze.
> 
> What is the minimum radius of this engine?


I'm not sure of the minimum. Lionel says O-54 in the catalog description,which seems extremely high for a small loco like this. It has blind drivers on all but two axles of the four with drivers, so the loco itself should be able to handle 36" if not tighter. The tender can probably do O-27 - it is short and the trucks turn through a very wide angle. 

However, the tender-loco gap looks to be proto-typically tight rather than wider like in many small O-gauge locos. I imagine this is the limiting factor and reason for O-54. When I get some serious run time on it later today I will check in down through 48, 42 and 36 to see. It would be easy to extend the tender-loco gap and run it on tighter but if it turns out it won't do below 54" I will leave it alone. I plan to run it mostly on 60" and larger curves anyway.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

*ALL DONE!*


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## Fabforrest (Aug 31, 2015)

Superb!


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## Guest (Mar 7, 2018)

Beautiful job, Lee.


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## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

The Canon City is certainly a well equipped railroad!
Randy


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## Volphin (Dec 7, 2015)

Wow that engine came out great Lee! Fantastic job!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Very nice Lee, you do great work. Looks like a factory paint job!


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## Stoshu (Jun 20, 2015)

Looks great....How about a video ?


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## PatKn (Jul 14, 2015)

Absolutely Gorgeous! :appl::appl::appl: How does it run?


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

PatKn said:


> Absolutely Gorgeous! :appl::appl::appl: How does it run?


Actually, as a loco to run and pull trains, it sucks. It runs well and is very controllable, being Legacy, but it can't pull much of anything because it is too light. 

This will be "My Favorite Loco This Week," when I post next Tuesday. I want a few days to think about its good and bad points - maybe I will be more generout by Tuesday. I was really disappointed. It looks so good, but it won't even pull 12 Menards boxcars around my layout without spinning its wheel badly on curves.


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## mike kennedy (Sep 30, 2013)

why not just add some weight?


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