# help with wiring on ho layout?



## Outlaw (Aug 27, 2014)

I need some serious help with my wiring on my layout (HO). my engine jerks a little and doesnt move at all. does anybody have some wiring books that they are done with and can send me, Please? atlas complete wiring book, atlas wiring your ho layout or wiring your layout?

Bill
(retired Navy Vietnam vet)


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## Aminnich (Nov 17, 2014)

If you could answer these questions first, it might help us, help you
How often is the track wired?
Did it work before?
Is it a new engine?
Is it at certain spots?


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Yes, as aminnich said, we can be more helpful if you
give us more information.

Usually, tho, if your wiring is not loose and your
track sections are solidly together, a loco that does
as you describe has dirty wheels, the track needs
cleaning, or there is a problem with the wires from
it's power pickup trucks.

Track can get a 'coating' on it that isn't easily seen.
Use an alcohol rag or clean kitchen pad to clean the
rails.

If your's is a diesel, place a paper town ON THE TRACK.
Pour a small dab of alcohol between the rails.
Then run your loco front truck onto the wet spot. Hold
the loco and turn up the power so the front wheels
spin. That will clean the wheels. Then do the same
for the rear truck.

You can try these suggestions and if they don't work
get back with more information, including the make
and type of loco, the type of track power, (AC, DC or DCC) the size
of your layout and the type of track. (brass, steel
or nickel/silver) (sectional or flex track).

Don


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

As Don said, there are several things I would check before assuming my wiring was at fault. 

Have you recently applied ballast or weathering?

How big is your layout? Any power blocks?

How many locos do you have? If more than one, do they all behave badly?

And so on. There's plenty of expertise here to get you through the problem. All we need is data.


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## homebrewer007 (Jan 14, 2015)

I am the new guy here, but I may have something that could help you troubleshoot your problem. One thing I do when wiring a new layout is use a voltage meter and test light on each section of track throughout the layout to ensue the continuity is consistant throughout the whole layout. At least this way you'll know if you have a loss of power or dead spots and work backward from there.

I personally place terminal track every six feet or so around the layout. I create a drop in the center of the layout where all the terminals are spliced together and then wire nut them together and run a positive and negative lead to the power pack supplying power to all terminal tracks. I do the same thing on the AC side to power switches. I'm not sure if that's the "proper" way to do it, but it's always worked well for me.


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## Outlaw (Aug 27, 2014)

It ran at first and then the engine jerks a couple of times and then doesn't move and controller for the track goes into overload. 

Bill:SELLIT:


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## Outlaw (Aug 27, 2014)

also its old engine and and its at the rail where the train contols hooks up to the track......


Bill
:SELLIT:


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

This is like talking to my teenage son.... gotta pull the info out one nugget at a time.

So, trying to figure out what's happening... you have one loco, not new (but how old, what make and model), and it ONLY has problems where the terminal wires connect. AND you get an overload indication. Does one of your terminal wires have a stray strand sticking up, or is there some play in the track so that the weight of the train is causing the terminal wires to touch?


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## Outlaw (Aug 27, 2014)

I have several engines none work...the one switcher is a month old and it worked once, now it just jerks a couple of times, but doesnt run correctly. just where the MRC #204 2 amp connects to the track....cleaned the tracks with alcohol and a clean cloth. No ballast or weathering yet...what is a power block? connections are tight and even the track and wires...

at wits end here.....HELP?


Bill in OHIO:dunno:


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## CrazySpence (Jan 15, 2015)

do you have any other feeders connected and if so could it be possible that you wired this one block backwards?


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Bill

You gotta help us help you.

What is an MRC 204? I couldn't find it on Google.

Is that a DCC control unit? Which one?

Or is it a DC Power Pack? Which one?

We must know the answer to those questions
to even know what else to ask.

Don


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## Outlaw (Aug 27, 2014)

:dunno: model 402 is the ampack ho train control by MRC. :smokin:

Bill


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## Outlaw (Aug 27, 2014)

crazyspence, feeders?:dunno:


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Bill, you're killin' us here! We have all tried to isolate and cure an electrical issue, and we know how frustrating it can be. Instead of trying to dash off a quick reply with the cutsey "confused" smiley, pretend for a moment that none of us has seen, or can see your layout, and what is obvious to you requires some description for us. Please be as descriptive and precise in your answers as possible (getting the digits reversed on the model number of your powerpack doesn't add clarity). Err on the side of too much information.

We tend to assume that since you already have a layout, you are familiar with some basic terminology and concepts. A feeder is a wire that provides electricity from a source to your track. The source can be a bus wire or a power pack. A block is a length of track that is electrically isolated from the rest, usually powered independently. If there are any other terms we use that you don't understand, just ask, and we'll be happy to explain.

I'm beginning to suspect that you have a reversing loop in your track -- that is, somewhere a train goes out one side of a turnout (switch) and comes back in the other, or a track comes out of a turnout on one side of your layout, crosses the center, and rejoins on the opposite side heading in the opposite direction. Can you give us a detailed description of your layout, or better, post a picture? A line drawing of your plan would probably be even clearer than a photo. Please indicate the location of any and all feeders. A reversing loop isn't a problem until you actually complete a circuit by putting a loco on the track.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Bill, a picture is worth a lot more than a few words, so I suggest you post some. Might just put you and us out of our misery!


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## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*Some help wiring your layout.*

When Wiring your layout, You should probably wire it for DCC from the start. Mark Gurries
web site on "DCC" has instructions to follow. These instructions deal with nonmetric wire sizes
I was wondering if anyone here can direct me to a pdf that explains/ show's how to convert over to DCC. from an existing dc analog layout that has painted rails with no.( not many drop wires. ) Thank you in advance. Regard's,tr1


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## Outlaw (Aug 27, 2014)

*pixs of my layout*

Sorry for the i dont know face.....

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/attachment.php?attac

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/atta...&d=1421527995hmentid=40272&stc=1&d=1421527995

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40275&stc=

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/atta...15279951&d=142152799540274&stc=1&d=1421527995

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40277&stc=1&d=1421528056


hope this helps some

Bill


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## JerryH (Nov 18, 2012)

You have a reversing section which may be causing a short if it is not insulated and wired with a polarity reversing switch.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Bill, you have a reverse loop in there which is likely causing all your problems, as CTValleyRR suspected. Rather than give you the remedy which is little complex for a beginner just take out a couple of sections of track in the middle where you have the over track loader, (File Type: jpg	077.jpg (312.6 KB, 0 views) you will then be able to run trains.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

straight forward dc layout, don't worry about drops, feeder, dcc, not at this point anyways... you _may_ have a short in the reversing section, the s curve shown in 077.jpg image...
i have no idea if this a lAyout that worked okay before, or a 'new contruct' layout that never did work as shown??
if you remove a piece oftrack in the middle of that s curve between the top and bottom as shown in your image, it _should_ work ..
in that case you would need to isolate that track with insulated [plastic] joiners, and add a separate switch to feed power and reverse polarity for that isolated piece


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Here is a admittedly not very explanatory video of how to wire it, just for the record: http://youtu.be/gfvc1y_5S7g


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## Outlaw (Aug 27, 2014)

The insulted wire joiners are the plastic joiners? at both ends of pix #77 or just on one end? do you run wires for power to the section in between the plastic joiners?? got the train running a little bit, but trying to clean the tracks.

thank you all for the words of wisdom to this novice newbie....LOL 


Bill


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Bill

Yes, you use the plastic insulated joiners at both ends of the angle track
and in both rails.

Put them where the track connects to both turnouts.

You must power that section through a double pole double throw
(DPDT) switch as is demonstrated in the post from cyclops.

The reason for this is that the inside rail is connected to the
outside rail (a short circuit) by this track that angles across 
your layout. Any time a loco can be turned around to go
the opposite direction on the same track you have a reverse
loop that must be wired this way.

The DPDT switch will enable you to change the polarity of
the isolated track to match the main oval. 

You will have to set the isolated track to the same polarity of
the main if the loco is to be able to enter it. You will have to
throw these switches anytime you use that track. It will not
permit continuous running. That would be possible only on
a DCC layout with an automatic reverse loop controller.

Don


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## Outlaw (Aug 27, 2014)

thanks Don and all the rest of you that helped me out. 

Bill


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Bill operating a reverse loop on a DC layout can be
tricky. 

As I mentioned, you must use the DPDT switch to match
the polarity of your isolated section before the loco enters it.

Then the main polarity must be reversed to match the
isolated section before the loco leaves it.

If you fail to throw these switches the loco will stop
and then quickly go back and forth across the
insulated joiners if it doesn't trip your circuit breaker.

Save up your pennies so you can soon upgrade to DCC
and no longer have to do all that switch throwing.

Don


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