# Lionel KW Repair Help



## JAM409 (Dec 29, 2013)

Hi,

We are fairly new to O-Gauge and recently put together our first table (with O-Gauge, O-27, and Fastrack) with a few modern era trains, and one recently acquired Lionel 2020 S-2 being currently serviced by an authorized center.

Along the way, we received a few Lionel transformers from a family member, such as 1033 and KW. We put a new cord on to the 1033 and cleaned it up, and ordered parts for the KW, which looks to be in good shape and was operating at Lionel specified voltages across the terminals before we opened it up (it still is, when nothing else is attached, after our "repairs").

Now, the problem with the KW, which we hope the forum can help us with, is that the CB on the KW lights up nearly every time we place anything on the track, such as a train, and move the power handles. That is, the CB does not light if we connect the KW to the track and push the handles to their max - when nothing is on the track. We are also getting 19.4V readings on the AU and BU terminals as well as on the track itself, and, although we do not know what it should read, it appears that there is a brief, intermittent DC current when we push the whistle/rectifier handle on (it seems to go +/-).

We did install a new CB (the kind found on Ebay for $10), a new rectifier disc (also Ebay), a new power cord, 2 new carbon rollers (the one seems to be sitting fairly tight against the transformer, if that matters), and reattached the three leads to the CB (the one coming from the terminals to the left side, and the ones coming from the CB light and the transformer to the right side).

Also, we are trying to use a Tyco 6A CB along the one wire running from the KW to the track. It is a Tyco W28-XQ1A-6. However, the issue with the CB lighting on the KW happens whether this 6A CB is connected or not, which brings another question as to why the 6A CB along the wire is not blowing before the 10A CB in the unit (the 6A Tyco CBs are brand new).

We apologize if this is a bit long, but wanted to provide enough information for review and feedback, if anyone would be so kind. We know our way around a multimeter and most electronics, so we can test or provide reads if necessary.

Thank you in advance...


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

Do you have a multimeter? Probably a good idea to hook it up in amps mode in series with the track and measure exactly what current is flowing.

If it's not 10 amps or above your back to the circuit breaker or wiring. Double check your work.

In the future it is better to do one repair and check it, then another repair and so on.


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## Togatown (Nov 29, 2013)

rkenney said:


> Do you have a multimeter? Probably a good idea to hook it up in amps mode in series with the track and measure exactly what current is flowing.
> 
> If it's not 10 amps or above your back to the circuit breaker or wiring. Double check your work.
> 
> In the future it is better to do one repair and check it, then another repair and so on.


Rkenney- Just for clarification, how did you attach the flat rectangle wire from the coil to the spade connection on the new circuit breaker?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'd have to suspect a wiring mistake somewhere along the line. Check your wiring using this wiring diagram.


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

Togatown said:


> Rkenney- Just for clarification, how did you attach the flat rectangle wire from the coil to the spade connection on the new circuit breaker?


I remember just jamming them together and crimping. I probably cut off the insulator sleeve if you're using them and spread the female crimp end slightly.

'Course when you're done all that and don't like the way it turned out you can simply solder like GRJ suggested.


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## BigAl56 (Dec 14, 2011)

Have you tried ignoring the track and just touching wires from AU to the center roller and frame of the locomotive? I've seen track with bad center rail insulators that when any weight is on it it shorts out.


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## JAM409 (Dec 29, 2013)

Thank you for the advice and direction. We have ruled out the track (it works well with other transformers and the multimeter reardings are consistent throughout). We are in the process of spot-checking and rebuilding with a focus on a wiring issue somehwere. Thanks GunRunnerJohn for the post (we have also benefited from your posts on other parts of the site). We hope to respond in time with a resolution or a return to the drawing board.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Keep pluggin', you'll get it.


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