# Changing it up a bit - Suggestions?



## jonyb (Mar 20, 2011)

I'm changing up my layout from what I had before. I'm using code 100 Flex, #6 switches, and a couple #4 switches. I have a few more #6 switches coming if needed. 

The curve where the engine is sitting is way too close together, so I'm going back to widen that out a bit. The inside track will be moved in, but still follow the mainline. Where the buildings are will be a downtown area with a street in the middle, and buildings on both sides. The side where the engine house is will be an industrial area with a 130' turntable (if I can ever find one).

Where should I go from here? Any suggestions?


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## deboardfam (Oct 8, 2010)

Looking pretty sweet. I like the layout. How wide is the section where the houses are? Just wondering for perspective on planning mine.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Really looks good!:thumbsup:
My advice would be try to avoid using the turnout as a curve like in the second pic. In the long run you will get smoother runs if you keep the straits on the main, then curve out to the branches.
You could branch off with a couple of turnouts for the two dead corners to feed some industries.


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## jonyb (Mar 20, 2011)

The only track so far is the mainline, there's another loop going inside of that. The buildings are just sitting there for now. On the branchline, it stops at the 3 turnouts. I'll complete the loop, but I was wondering what anyone would suggest for sidings, instead of just making 2 loops around the layout.


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## jonyb (Mar 20, 2011)

NIMT said:


> Really looks good!:thumbsup:
> My advice would be try to avoid using the turnout as a curve like in the second pic. In the long run you will get smoother runs if you keep the straits on the main, then curve out to the branches.
> You could branch off with a couple of turnouts for the two dead corners to feed some industries.


Thanks for the tip. when I space that branchline out, I'll either move the turnout to the straight or take it out completely.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Here are a few more ideas... I like being able to reverse train direction and the green or orange loops would let you do that!
The blue lines are just branch ideas.


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## jonyb (Mar 20, 2011)

Would I need a reverse loop module for the orange/green ones, or would track insulators work? I wouldn't think the latter of the 2 would work.


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## waltr (Aug 15, 2011)

jonyb said:


> Would I need a reverse loop module for the orange/green ones, or would track insulators work? I wouldn't think the latter of the 2 would work.


You need insulators and a reversing method. If DCC then use a reversing module like the Digitrax PM42.

I do like the idea of a reversing loop. If you move to right side green connection further away (the other side of the cross-overs) then you could bring a track off of the green into the round house.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

For a single reverse loop like this you can use a Digitrax AR-1.
I'll trade you one AR-1 for a remote start for my truck, or at least the right module to override the key!


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## jonyb (Mar 20, 2011)

waltr said:


> You need insulators and a reversing method. If DCC then use a reversing module like the Digitrax PM42.
> 
> I do like the idea of a reversing loop. If you move to right side green connection further away (the other side of the cross-overs) then you could bring a track off of the green into the round house.


I have insulators on hand, not a problem. Any track in front of the roundhouse is contingent on finding a turntable, since Walthers keeps pushing back the release date on the 130' table they have. If anyone has one, or similar, or even a better/alternative suggestion, please tell me.....



NIMT said:


> For a single reverse loop like this you can use a Digitrax AR-1.
> I'll trade you one AR-1 for a remote start for my truck, or at least the right module to override the key!


I'd be willing to do that, but the only problem is, that most of those modules cost me $45-$55, plus shipping. What truck do you need this for? It may be cheaper if it's just a transponder bypass, and not a databus/doorlock interface. I'll be glad to hook you up on parts for that though, I use idatalink for the modules, just need the year/make/model.....


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