# Atlas Code 83 turnouts questions



## butcherman (Dec 27, 2016)

I was given a bunch of Atlas Code 83 turnouts. Couple of questions:

1. How do I tell what number they are.

2. They are all manual switches. If I want to convert the turnouts at the back of my layout to remote how do I remove the manual switch part.

I know Atlas aren't the best, but they were given to me and I am retired on limited income so have to use what I have.

Thanks in advance.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

I think the # is on the back on the ties. The manual switch sort of rotates off. Look at it closely and you can see how it grips the actual turnout. The code 83 turnouts are not too bad and there are plenty of ways to improve them.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

butcherman said:


> I was given a bunch of Atlas Code 83 turnouts. Couple of questions:
> 
> 1. How do I tell what number they are.
> 
> ...


It's hard to beat free.... 

Atlas makes two switches in Code 83 -- Snap Switches and Custom Line. The Custom Line ones are significantly better, though still not top of the line. The number (on the back) will tell you what you have.

If you have those long, flat sliders on the sides of the turnouts, they are just clipped on and should pull right off. You can then use any commercial switch machine to operate them. You can purchase the Atlas remote operators, but they are a big, honking twin solenoid machine. I would recommend that you use an under the layout model. I personally use servo-motors from Tam Valley Depot, but Tortoise by Circuitron, Peco, and Rapido all make good products as well.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Turnout answers*



butcherman said:


> I was given a bunch of Atlas Code 83 turnouts. Couple of questions:
> 
> 1. How do I tell what number they are.
> 
> ...


butcherman;

1. The frog # is simply the angle at which the diverging route leaves the main route. If it diverges one mm. in four linear mm. of travel then it is a #4 turnout. If it takes six mm. of travel to diverge the same one mm. sideways, then it is a #6 turnout. I don't know if the Atlas model turnouts are marked with their frog#s or not. Basically the lower the frog# the sharper the turnout. You can use turnouts with different frog #s in many situations. So even if your batch includes different types, they will still be useful for you. One situation where both turnouts are nearly always the same # is a crossover. This arrangement has two turnouts back-to-back, and is used to get a train from one track of a double-track main line, onto the other track. Crossovers should be made with higher frog# turnouts. This makes the transition between tracks gentler. The attached photo below, shows a crossover using two #8 turnouts. Atlas "snap switch" turnouts are a bit different. They contain a built-in kink where the points pivot, a short stretch of straight track, and an overall shape designed to substitute for an 18" radius curved section of track. Most Atlas "custom Line" turnouts don't have a curved route, like the "snap switches." Instead they have two straight routes set at an angle to each other; the frog # angle. 

2. Already answered by others.

"3." Yes Atlas turnouts aren't the best, but since you have a bunch, and got them for free, it makes sense to use them. You can make improvements to make them more reliable, and less likely to cause derailments. I have a post on this very subject. It's located in the "General Model Train Discussion" section of this forum. You can use the search function to pull up the title, "Improving Atlas turnouts" by Traction Fan. It shows in photos, and text, what can, and what can't, be fixed on Atlas turnouts.
Since you have limited funds for your railroad, there are some other posts that might interest you. In the Beginner's Q&A" section check out "$5 switch machine" and "Model Railroading on a budget." they may help you save some money.

Good luck;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## D&J Railroad (Oct 4, 2013)

If you are a stickler for good operation and want to have your frogs powered, you would give those turnouts back to the giver and buy some that you can solder a power lead to the frog.
The Atlas turnout provides a terminal lug that attaches to the frog and then sticks out to the side of the turnout. You have to find a screw and nut for it to secure your wire to it. Now you have a big (scale) screw head next to the track. Just as toy like as the big solenoid body.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

D&J Railroad said:


> Just as toy like as the big solenoid body.


That said, there are ways to camouflage it. The simplest is to cover it with a piece of electrical tape and glue scenic materials (bushes, heavy underbrush) on top of it.


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

I am assuming (yes, dangerous I know) that we are talking about the Custom Line turnouts here. The #4 and #6 turnouts have a small lug cast into the side of the frog, just as the code 100's of the same #'s do. Drill and tap these lugs for a 2-56 screw. Install a screw with the head on the bottom of the turnout. You can either wrap a small gauge feeder wire around the screw and then tighten down the screw, or you can tighten down the screw and then solder your feeder wire to the head of the screw. The second method may be a bit better for electrical contact, but it will make removing the screw more difficult if that ever needs to be done.
Before drilling, tapping, and installing the screw temporarily place the turnout in position and mark the location of the lug. Drill the hole for the feeder wire, then countersink the hole for the 2-56 screw.
The #8 turnout does have a lug out on the edge of the turnout, but unlike the lug on the #4 and #6 turnouts, you CAN solder to this lug. If necessary, I can provide photographic evidence of this. Mark the location of the lug and drill the hole for your feeder wire. The hole for the #8's needn't be countersunk as no 2-56 screw is needed. The wires will be hidden when the track is ballasted.


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## butcherman (Dec 27, 2016)

These turnouts are not custom line. On the back of the turnout it says "1994 Atlas Code 83 Snap Switch". There is no number on the back. Been searching the net and from what I have read they are equivalent to the #4 turnout. They are equivalent to a 9 inch straight and a 9 inch 18" curve if you add a 1/3 piece of 18" curve to the departure track.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

butcherman said:


> These turnouts are not custom line. On the back of the turnout it says "1994 Atlas Code 83 Snap Switch". There is no number on the back. Been searching the net and from what I have read they are equivalent to the #4 turnout. They are equivalent to a 9 inch straight and a 9 inch 18" curve if you add a 1/3 piece of 18" curve to the departure track.


They are NOT equivalent to a #4. A #4 has straight legs. The SnapSwitch has a curved diverging leg (as you state).


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## butcherman (Dec 27, 2016)

Guess with these turnouts I will have to run my Bachmann GG1 around the outside loop as it has a 22 inch curve and going to get a steam engine that will run on the 18 inch curve and siding turnouts on inside loop. Here is the layout I am planning on building. It is a 4x6 layout I am going to stretch to 4x8 so can add more scenery.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Is your primary interest in the hobby watching trains run through scenery? If not, you might be better served by adding some more sidings in the center, so your trains have something to do rather than orbit the plywood planet.

You also should consider adding a scenic divider -- either a backdrop or some very tall scenery -- down the center, roughly left to right, to visually divide the space and make it seem bigger.


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## butcherman (Dec 27, 2016)

Thanks for the ideas CTValleyRR - I actually have been thinking on the line of more sidings. Would run the GG1 with passenger cars on outer loop and been looking at the Bachmann PRR 2-6-0 to run the inner loop with sidings for a factory or a town. Should have room for several sidings. Once I get the layout table put together, plan on just putting the track down and play around with the final design before I glue the track down.


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## Steadilsr#5 (Oct 19, 2018)

CTValleyRR said:


> It's hard to beat free....
> 
> Atlas makes two switches in Code 83 -- Snap Switches and Custom Line. The Custom Line ones are significantly better, though still not top of the line. The number (on the back) will tell you what you have.
> 
> If you have those long, flat sliders on the sides of the turnouts, they are just clipped on and should pull right off. You can then use any commercial switch machine to operate them. You can purchase the Atlas remote operators, but they are a big, honking twin solenoid machine. I would recommend that you use an under the layout model. I personally use servo-motors from Tam Valley Depot, but Tortoise by Circuitron, Peco, and Rapido all make good products as well.


Hello, I m a newbie using Atlas code83 and I 'd appreciate your advice: Their "Complete wiring book" states the user must use an AC powerpack to power the remote switch machines which i have installed. I was almost ready to use a DC power pack. Does this absolutely need AC? Please recommend a specific brand if you can of AC power packs to run switch machines. This is my first large 4x8 set up and I will not be using Atlas turnouts & SM again so please point me towards the correct power supply you pro's use! Much Thanks
Lou / Steadilsr


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

No. You do not have to use AC to power these switch machines. DC works just fine and I'm using DC myself.


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## Steadilsr#5 (Oct 19, 2018)

MichaelE said:


> No. You do not have to use AC to power these switch machines. DC works just fine and I'm using DC myself.


Michael,
Much thanks for the prompt reply! I greatly appreciate your experience here! Sorry to make send this as a message, I should have made a post. New to this Forum too.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

Steadilsr#5 said:


> Michael,
> Much thanks for the prompt reply! I greatly appreciate your experience here! Sorry to make send this as a message, I should have made a post. New to this Forum too.



Steadlis#5;

With either DC or AC, it's very important to only send a quick (1 or 2 seconds max) burst of power to those Atlas twin-coil switch machines. Any longer than that and they can be quickly burned out. So don't hold the blue button down longer. \
A device called a "Capacitive Discharge Unit" (CDU) will prevent any possibility of burning out a coil. You can make your own CDU if you're electronically inclined, or buy one ready-made. "Snapper" is one commercial CDU. You could also use a Stapleton 751D turnout control instead of the poor quality blue button control that comes with an Atlas poor quality "Snap Switch" turnout. The Stapleton controller has a CDU built-in.
For now, you may want to use the Atlas controls as outlined in the complete wiring book. As you gain experience, you may want to upgrade to better turnouts and controls. The files below have lots of information on turnouts, wiring, track, and lots of other model railroad subjects. I wrote them to help new modelers. Look through them if you wish.

Good Luck & Have Fun;

Traction Fan 🙂


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## Steadilsr#5 (Oct 19, 2018)

traction fan said:


> Steadlis#5;
> 
> With either DC or AC, it's very important to only send a quick (1 or 2 seconds max) burst of power to those Atlas twin-coil switch machines. Any longer than that and they can be quickly burned out. So don't hold the blue button down longer. \
> A device called a "Capacitive Discharge Unit" (CDU) will prevent any possibility of burning out a coil. You can make your own CDU if you're electronically inclined, or buy one ready-made. "Snapper" is one commercial CDU. You could also use a Stapleton 751D turnout control instead of the poor quality blue button control that comes with an Atlas poor quality "Snap Switch" turnout. The Stapleton controller has a CDU built-in.
> ...


TractionFan, WOW! So much info, so little time! Money? I m retired, I print my own Truly Thanks for this info! be safe, even my loco's wear masks!


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

Steadilsr#5 said:


> TractionFan, WOW! So much info, so little time! Money? I m retired, I print my own Truly Thanks for this info! be safe, even my loco's wear masks!


I'm retired too. Not counterfeiting though. 😄 The secret service takes a very dim view of that sort of thing!  I wear masks. My wife sews masks. I haven't fitted any to my locomotives yet, but it's a thought.

Traction Fan 🙂


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