# finally getting rolling on my switcher layout



## marti427 (Feb 18, 2013)

Have tossed around many ideas, switched multiple times but finally decided to go with a version of the Box Street Yard. I am currently putting the woodwork together and have my flex track (Atlas 83) in hand and about to order my turnouts. 

Quick question based on the image would the top turnout be best in the smaller Atlas 9'' or would 10 1/2'' work? I have some 10 1/2'' from a layout I had planned to do but due to space I needed a little smaller space but curious if the 9'' worked better on the smaller sized layout. And I'm having trouble trying to figure out the size of the crossing, I believe it is the 9'' or 6 1/2'' one could anyone help me assure me which one it is? Any help would be appreciated, off to Home Depot to get the final wood needed!


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## marti427 (Feb 18, 2013)

Went to get the crossing I needed and the two additional turnouts for a add-on I'm drawing up to this plan and the only hobby shop that has the code 83 I need is a hour away and when I got up there it was closed for whatever reason, d'oh! So I had to order the crossing and hold off on the add-on for right now. But about to cut the 2x4 for the base of my layout but still debating if I want to use a foam or full cork sheet base on top of the wood or just lay the track on the wood, a good bit of the track is going to be in the street so unsure if either would help or if straight wood would be fine.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Marti

I have admired your interesting switching plan for some time.
Seen it in several big modular layouts. 

I couldn't begin to answer your important question of the
correct turnout and crossing to use since I am geometry challanged. 

But, I would put the main on a foam or cork strip and get
a foam layer for the 'off main' areas. It offers a better surface
for painting and landscaping...you can poke fence posts
and tree trunks into it. For this purpose, I found in the Walmart
Crafts section, a paper covered thin foam sheet that is sold in
small panels and is very cheap.
It may be what would be useful for you.

Don


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## marti427 (Feb 18, 2013)

What this? I got a day off and track is finally being laid, what a day! Here is the progress I've made this morning, I ended up switching my plan a bit. I am going to be adding second level to this layout later that will just contain a switch with a siding for a lumber store and the straight will be used to unload salt and cement. 

My current dilemma is whether or not to put cork underneath. I bought some Elmer's foam board and wood glued it to the plywood but I still don't know if I should put cork as well. There are two parts I plan to pave road over the track to make a parking lot for the trucks that will come into the factory so I am unsure how the cork will make the transition into the pavement. This is also my first time doing ballast and I don't want make the area seem to elevated with the cork. Any feedback would be welcomed. 

And Don thanks for the kind words and help.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Marti

Check your local railroads.

You usually find the Main line is ballasted on a contoured rise such as you
get with the foam or cork roadbed. But look at the spurs and sidings and
you'll see that they are on flat ground with sparse ballast often you see
weeds growing between the rails. My yards are
all on flat ground (1/4" foam sheets) but the mains are on W/S foam roadbed.

Your new scheme is nice...but, pshaw, I had a thing for your original idea. hwell:

Don


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## marti427 (Feb 18, 2013)

Don maybe you'll still think the new one is a beauty!  

Man, oh man, how you guys make soldering track look so easy? Ether it isn't or I'm doing something wrong. It's done but it seems rough, couldn't get a nice smooth solder so I guess time for sandpaper to see if I can smooth it. Though I ran a boxcar over it and it kinda gave it a old track feel when it went over. Just worried about derailing but don't think I did it that awful. I guess time will tell. Will try to post pictures later, off to sandpaper then nail the track down and may start ballast tonight or this weekend


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Marti

PRACTICE. Take a scrap piece of track and some SOLID insulated wire. 

Do these steps a few times and you'll be a gen-you-wine expert! 

I first tin the rail with a dab of flux and then use the tip of the iron
to 'carry' a small dab of solder to it. A deft touch and you'll have
a small drop of solder on the rail.

Then tin the end of a stripped wire.After a dab of flux run the iron with a drop
of solder up and down just about a 1/4" of wire end.
Next, Use your long nose and make enuf of a bend to let the
wire 'hang' on the bottom of the rail. 

You already have the hole drilled next to the
rail, drop the wire down it and actually hang the wire on the rail. 

Get another drop of solder on the iron and make another DEFT 
touch to the tinned wire on the tinned rail. Done. 

Obviously, you have to have a quick touch of the iron to avoid
melting the plastic ties. Some guys like to use a heat sink or
a wet tuft of cotton to absorb the heat.

Other guys have their favorite soldering techniques, and they are good also.
Whatever works best for you.

The best way to repair a bad solder joint...use the iron and pull
the solder Away and start over. But sometimes you can file an
oversize joint down. You can't leave any solder above the top
of the rail. Wheels, Side frames etc. will hit it and derail. 

Don


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## marti427 (Feb 18, 2013)

Here it is so far, I want to add more track I just don't know where. Also on the right side I need to build a sector plate or transfer table to help with the limited space. Any feedback or ideas are welcomed.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Excuse my shaking mouse board line. 
A few options for more track sidings?
Shoot, I forgot to add an engineers hat on Fido.


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## Zippy4 (Sep 25, 2013)

Looking good ! I like it very good idea


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## 05Slowbalt (Dec 19, 2011)

Good to see you have a helper there.


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