# #6 and #8 terminal strips



## Overkast (Jan 16, 2015)

Hi all. Newbie here just starting to get back into model railroading since childhood. Doing tons or research but one of the biggest confusion factors I still have are regarding a #6 and #8 size terminal strip. These size differences are mentioned in model railroad language but manufacturers dont actually list terminal strips by a #6 or #8 number, so when shopping online for them how do I know which size the terminal strip is?


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## dasB&M2-6-0 (Dec 13, 2014)

Overkast said:


> Hi all. Newbie here just starting to get back into model railroading since childhood. Doing tons or research but one of the biggest confusion factors I still have are regarding a #6 and #8 size terminal strip. These size differences are mentioned in model railroad language but manufacturers dont actually list terminal strips by a #6 or #8 number, so when shopping online for them how do I know which size the terminal strip is?


Do you mean TURNOUT??
The # of a turnout relates to the radius of the turn relative to straight track....the smaller the #, the smaller the radius...
Now...if you're actually referring to electrical terminal strips (to connect wires)...the # would, I believe, correspond to the screw/lug size....HTH!!

May your freight ALWAYS roll smoothly...and ON TIME!!


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## Overkast (Jan 16, 2015)

Hi das, thanks for the reply. No I don't mean turnouts, I definitely mean terminal strips. Here's an example from Sumida Crossing where he mentions it (but this is not the only site, I've seen reference to this #6 and #8 elsewhere as well).


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

Forget those things. Sure they look like what we are used to seeing, but these are much cheaper and you can cut them for less positions. Works with stranded and solid wire and you don't have to curl the wire around a screw!









You can get them for less than 1.00 apiece on E-bay!:smokin:


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Bob

I have a number of those terminal strips that take
straight wires on my turnout panels.

I have mixed feelings for them. Just shoving a wire
in and tightening the screw is easier than the
lug type strips, but when using solid, as opposed
to stranded wires, it is very easy to tighten the
screw had have it miss the wire and you have a
probable loss of conductivity.

You must take care to tug the wires after you
screw them down.

Don


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

Same is true with the conventional screw strip where the wire slides out from under the screw. Your whole house is wired by shoving a wire in and tightening a screw.

Good workmanship and safety always require taking care.

Course if you'd rather spend a fortune on terminal strips instead of trains, be my guest.


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## Overkast (Jan 16, 2015)

Thanks Bob, this is very helpful. I have seen these white plastic alternative terminals but wasn't sure they were an accepted standard for model railroading. I'll be using all stranded wire for my layout (14 AWG bus and 18 AWG feeders)... do I need to worry about different terminal capacities with these things or is it a one terminal-fits-all-gauges type of terminal?

This will be for a 4' x 8' N scale layout.


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

I suppose they come in different sizes. The ones I ordered have 12 positions per strip, probably fit a single 10 gauge solid wire max (you won't be using anything that big!).

























Wire on the left is 14 gauge stranded, right is 16


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## Overkast (Jan 16, 2015)

Fantastic pics Bob, thanks for taking the time to post. After an initial search on these terminals it looks like they vary in Amps ratings. For example I'm seeing some rated as low as 5A and one that goes big like 60A. I know common U.S. Electrical outlets are rated at 15A, so should I stick w/ 15A terminals or go up to 20A just to be safe?


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

In many cases, those terminal strips are carrying low amperages. Your wall outlet is rated 15A but also carries 120VAC. These strips will be carrying a mere 18-20V max. The terminal size is equivalent to the diameter of the screw -- #4, #6, #8, etc. Solderless terminal ends are a good product to use on your wires for connecting to these strips. They are also sized the same way and include the wire gauge as well...#12, #14, #16, etc.


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## feldon30 (Dec 30, 2012)

rkenney is posting pictures of European style terminal strips/blocks. I evaluated them, but didn't like that I'd have to run wires from post to post to bridge connections.

I ended up going with the Molex MX7233 terminal blocks. I stumbled through the barely workable website of Heilind Electronics because they had four position dual terminal strips for *$1.76* a piece and bridges at *$1.48* a piece. If it weren't for the cheap price (60% less than everywhere else), I'd not have used their site.

















As for the eight position strips, I got them at AllElectronics at something like $3 a piece.











As for power rating, a DCC boosters tend to come in 2, 3, 5, or 8 amps. I can't imagine someone running all 8 amps over their entire layout without dividing up into terminal blocks, so I can't see why 5A terminal blocks wouldn't be more than adequate for your needs.


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

feldon30 said:


> I evaluated them, but didn't like that I'd have to run wires from post to post to bridge connections.


Instead I can *buy* these terminal ends joined by wire and run them post to post to bridge connections? 









:sly:


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Yes, so long as you have a way to fasten them. Remember, though, more connections menas more places for something to screw up and short or lose connectivity. 

These little gadgets (http://www.micromark.com/SearchResult.aspx?deptIdFilter=0&searchPhrase=fahnestock+clips) are quite useful for joining wires. Put one wire under the clip and screw it down, then clip the other end into the spring.


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## feldon30 (Dec 30, 2012)

rkenney said:


> Instead I can *buy* these terminal ends joined by wire and run them post to post to bridge connections?
> 
> View attachment 40321
> 
> ...


You've got a technique which works for you and offers a cost savings. That's great.

Personally, I like how this looks, and so that's why I chose the solution I did, even though it cost more:









Your mileage may vary!


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

I knew you were going to say that you liked the way it looks. Mine are all under the table, only look at them while making a connection.

I'd look elsewhere for those fahnstock clips. $15.95 is too much for 25.:rippedhand:

Here's 60 clips on Amazon for that price!

http://www.amazon.com/School-Specialty-Science-Fahnestock-Clips/dp/B008C4S31Y

Here's 100 for 14.95!!!

http://www.enasco.com/c/science/Electricity/Electronic+Components/Fahnestock+Clips/?ref=breadcrumb


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

rkenney said:


> I knew you were going to say that you liked the way it looks. Mine are all under the table, only look at them while making a connection.
> 
> I'd look elsewhere for those fahnstock clips. $15.95 is too much for 25.:rippedhand:
> 
> ...


Buy them wherever you like. They were much less than that the last time I bought them (I have about 100 in my parts bin). OTOH, there's a company on Amazon selling brass ones for $9 each, $5 each if you buy 500 of them.

The purpose was to illustrate the product, not drum up sales for Micromark.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I wish I new they made those I jumped mine!


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

CTValleyRR said:


> The purpose was to illustrate the product,


Well, if you wanted to illustrate the product you should have drawn a picture.:laugh::laugh::laugh:










One of us may take ourself way to seriously.


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## jesteck (Apr 15, 2014)

Never hurts with either type to twist the ends of stranded wire tight and tin it. Less chance of poor contact.


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

The following illustration shows clearly how to fasten a wire under a screw terminal.









For those that insist on going that route.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

rkenney said:


> Well, if you wanted to illustrate the product you should have drawn a picture.:laugh::laugh::laugh:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Not me. Just that if I tried to draw them, it would have looked more like a truck than an electrical clip.


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## feldon30 (Dec 30, 2012)

rkenney said:


> One of us may take ourself way to seriously.


Got that right.


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