# 2056 Hudson



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I got reacquainted today with my Hudson. I have had it so long, even before I knew what a Hudson was. First in this thread I removed the shell. It only has two screws that hold the motor assembly into place. One on top and one on the bottom. Then you have to remove the four rear trailing wheels for clearance.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The unit drops out whole. I include the access to the armature top.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

T-Man,

That's a neat looking motor setup. I've never seen one of those before. I like the way the e-unit is hitched along for a ride on the back!

I like the complexity of the drive rod assembly details. I assume that's a smoker unit on the front?

Is that two casting pieces for the cowcatcher and the steamchest, or one together?

I like this loco. I know you've said earlier somewhere, but refresh my memory ... the 2056 is a near-clone to what other loco?

Thanks,

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Little Beast*

Made in 1952 with no magnetraction, the 2056 is similiar to the 2046 and 646.

Shown on the left is the 2056, the center is the 5690,(675,2025), and the 2018,(2023,20160)


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

T-Man,

Thanks, but can you identify the lineup (in order) on that photo above? Is that the 2056 on the LEFT ??? Others???

Thanks!!!

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

You should know enough by now! I am finished with the post now.

The steam chest is one piece like the cheaper cousins of the 2026,224 1666.









Here you see the bottom cup for the smoke unit. It is forced up with the lever seen on the right. ALso you see the two screws attached to the steam chest to connect to the frame. 









I experimented with a Mag lite in some of the pictures.


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## Buster77 (Dec 7, 2010)

T-Man said:


> I got reacquainted today with my Hudson. I have had it so long, even before I knew what a Hudson was. First in this thread I removed the shell. It only has two screws that hold the motor assembly into place. One on top and one on the bottom. Then you have to remove the four rear trailing wheels for clearance.


Nice pics.
That's the loco I picked up recently at a local train show. It's in great shape, along with the rest of the set. 
The whistle in the tender (2046w)is a bit erratic, so I just have to get that working properly. Just been too busy with other stuff lately to play with it.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

T-Man,

I appreciate the clarifications and the detailed photos. I have yet to venture into one of these postwar metal cast locos (other than my 221), but I like beefiness of what you're showing ... a far cry from our tinplates!

Thanks!

TJ


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## GeraldNuss (Dec 31, 2013)

Hey T-Man, I just got a 2056 and the first thing I noticed is the rear four trailing wheels have been exchanged for a prewar set. I did not notice in the pictures until after it arrived, but the "axle heads" are different on the prewar models i have seen. Any ideas where an original can be found? The Prewar set does not set in the o27 guage track. I don't have any O gauge, would it set right in it?


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

GeraldNuss said:


> Hey T-Man, I just got a 2056 and the first thing I noticed is the rear four trailing wheels have been exchanged for a prewar set. I did not notice in the pictures until after it arrived, but the "axle heads" are different on the prewar models i have seen. Any ideas where an original can be found? The Prewar set does not set in the o27 guage track. I don't have any O gauge, would it set right in it?


Here's one on Ebay if that helps:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LIONEL-O-GA...156244?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item35d0408614


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## stevetil (Sep 6, 2011)

I have a 2046, I think it is from 1953.
Looks very similar, though mine is cleaner.
I like it!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

stevetil said:


> I have a 2046, I think it is from 1953.
> Looks very similar, though mine is cleaner.
> I like it!


The 2056 replaces the 2046 in 1952.
http://www.tandem-associates.com/lionel/lionel_trains_2056_loco.htm

2046,
http://www.tandem-associates.com/lionel/lionel_trains_2046_loco.htm


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

stevetil said:


> I have a 2046, I think it is from 1953.
> Looks very similar, though mine is cleaner.
> I like it!



It shares the same boiler casting.


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## GeraldNuss (Dec 31, 2013)

I may have spoke too soon on about the "prewar" complaint. I was looking on eBay at other 2056 loco's and all of the have the same rear truck. So the problem may lie in my o27 track. I will scrounge up true O gauge and see if it sets better on it. Thanks for the quick pickup on the cry for help.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

You do know the 2056 is an O/27 locomotive?


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

Gerald, you also realize the differences in O and O-27 is rail height and curve radius. If the wheelset isn't sitting right I'd check for bent axles and proper gauging (spacing) of the wheels. If either is wrong the wheels won't sit correctly.

Carl


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## GeraldNuss (Dec 31, 2013)

I have recently re-entered the wonderful world of trains after nearly 50 years. I love to read the forums and am not afraid to ask for help. I will look at the axles in the morning. I am anxious to test run this new loco but my old 1033 needs a thorough going thru. It does run my old 2055 but still needs to be checked out.
Thanks for the info.


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## santafe158 (Jul 14, 2010)

tjcruiser said:


> T-Man,
> I like this loco. I know you've said earlier somewhere, but refresh my memory ... the 2056 is a near-clone to what other loco?



They're also based on the 726/736 berkshire castings which is why they look somewhat similar to those locomotives too.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

It's good to see the old thread. I forgot it had a smoke unit. I recently got a few from Jeff and am installing them on two 2025"s. Coincidently I was working one, on the trailing wheels. From the pictures the wheels and axles look the same. C clips hold them on and the axles are swaged and the wheels are firmly attached. With this in mind it is a good idea to check spacing. It may be that you have a track piece that should be replaced. 

To alter wheel spacing place the axle over a small socket or a vise then tap the axle to move the wheel inward. A press can be used too. The wheel needing movement is at the bottom. These axles are thin and will bend. The first new wheels I installed bent the axle real good. I had to remove the wheels and reshape the axle a few times. I use my very scientific technique. Roll it on a piece of flat metal. Where it wobbles hit it with a hammer. Try not to flatten out the swage marks in the process. 

I may get jnto smoke units, I have three that I know of. This vacation I have been checking on my collection. Deciding what to fix next.

I did fix the trailing wheels on a 1666.


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## GeraldNuss (Dec 31, 2013)

Thanks for the suggestions on the axle problem. I will take a closer look today. I have read the owners manual for the 2056 and it is going to be very helpful although is contradictive at times. It states the 2056 will fit any O or o27 track but later it states "Minimum Curve: 0-31"


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## clovis (Jan 5, 2014)

I have a 2055, and it is one of my favorite engines, by far.

I need to find and replace the boiler front. One of the marker lights has been sheared off.

Is this a hard job?

Does the shell have to come off to replace the boiler front?


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Never even seen one. Some fronts are held on with a spring. At Oslen's there have two fronts but I suspect they may be pressed in. You will have to see if the part is available. 2065-13 with the tank, 2046-13 without. They do sell a marker light replacement where you cut into the boiler and glue the replacement in. Haven't done that but I have 1615 on my list.


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## santafe158 (Jul 14, 2010)

The 2055 boiler front is held by one screw through the top of the boiler casting. Very easy to replace. Simply pull the screw, pop off the boiler front, and put the new one on and replace the screw.


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## GeraldNuss (Dec 31, 2013)

Hey T-man, what is the size of the mounting screw on the bottom of the shell, I was running it and noticed the cow catcher is loose. Upon investigation I see only the hole where the mounting screw belongs. I am beginning the search for a new one but any short cut would be appreciated.


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## callmeIshmael2 (May 28, 2012)

*Postwar smokers deserve a hint of technology!*

Although the 2055 and 2065 are essentially mechanically nearly, maybe even totally, identical, the boiler fronts have a very different look. For what you gain with an attractive over-the-headlight feedwater heater, you lose with open-glass marker lights. Although a little light shines thru a 2065 or 665 (same loco) along with the headlight - with the 2055/685-type boiler front (also 736/726, etc.) you get those little green jewels that are not illuminated, but beautiful.

Many articles have been written on the wisdom of installing an inexpensive modern liquid smoke unit (see "Erkenbrand"'s great strand on smoke unit replacement). Some people don't want to change anything, which is okay unless they are kidding themselves about losing value on the open market. These wonderful Lionel engines are never going to go for big bucks unless factory-fresh in wrapping and boxes. Depending on shape, they bring about a hundred to maybe two hundred with appropriate postwar whistle tender; maybe a bit more with boxes.

I finally got tired of my smokers (#s 2018, 2035, and 2046) consuming pellets but giving out with so little smoke (was it ever thus?). I ordered a couple liquid smoke units on the cheap, and got a shock. Not only were they very easy to install, my #2018 instantly turned into a prolific smoker, as did my 2046 and 2035. Total time replacing the old with the new unit was maybe 20 minutes to a half-hour (I'm slow). Add in another 15 minutes (to half-hour for my #2035, which is not easily disassembled/reassembled) and the results were so worth it. Highly recommend this smoke fix to anyone. Not a difficult thing to do, and you'll learn a bit more about the marvel and simplicity of postwar Lionel. May my descendants run these trains 200 years from now!

Jeff Kane (The Train Tender) has anything you need here, but if you switch to liquid, be sure to use JT Steam smoking liquid, which he also stocks. He also provides instructions on installation of the unit, I believe. JT is the king of liquid smoke and comes in several 'scents', which you need to pay attention to because of the amount of smoke you'll create...


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

GeraldNuss said:


> Hey T-man, what is the size of the mounting screw on the bottom of the shell, I was running it and noticed the cow catcher is loose. Upon investigation I see only the hole where the mounting screw belongs. I am beginning the search for a new one but any short cut would be appreciated.



A 2056 0r 2055. Two different beast altogether. A 2056 uses a 6/ 32 screw. A size 6 screw with 32 threads per inch about 3/4 of an inch long.


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## GeraldNuss (Dec 31, 2013)

Yup that hole right there is what I found empty. I may find the screw laying
Around. I took the one out of the top and it fit the bottom hole. I now know what to look for. Thank you.


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

callmeIshmael2 said:


> I finally got tired of my smokers (#s 2018, 2035, and 2046) consuming pellets but giving out with so little smoke (was it ever thus?). I ordered a couple liquid smoke units on the cheap, and got a shock. Not only were they very easy to install, my #2018 instantly turned into a prolific smoker, as did my 2046 and 2035. Total time replacing the old with the new unit was maybe 20 minutes to a half-hour (I'm slow). Add in another 15 minutes (to half-hour for my #2035, which is not easily disassembled/reassembled) and the results were so worth it. Highly recommend this smoke fix to anyone. Not a difficult thing to do, and you'll learn a bit more about the marvel and simplicity of postwar Lionel. May my descendants run these trains 200 years from now!


I agree with you in part. One difference, the liquid smokers must be kept with fluid or a switch added. I rebuilt my 2025's smoker with a pellet type element, and use JT Megasteam, suffice it to say it smokes rather well. The advantage is I can run it dry without fear. Call me a nut if you like, but the pellet elements were virtually bullet proof if you used them right. The issue with them is most over did the pellets clogging them rendering them lifeless and weak. The old ones do work with fluid btw, and that is an improvement worth trying out.

Carl


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Kwikster said:


> I agree with you in part. One difference, the liquid smokers must be kept with fluid or a switch added. I rebuilt my 2025's smoker with a pellet type element, and use JT Megasteam, suffice it to say it smokes rather well. The advantage is I can run it dry without fear. Call me a nut if you like, but the pellet elements were virtually bullet proof if you used them right. The issue with them is most over did the pellets clogging them rendering them lifeless and weak. The old ones do work with fluid btw, and that is an improvement worth trying out.
> 
> Carl


I agree, it also seems like the pellets lasted longer?
Also, I don't know if anyone knows but when the pellets turn to powder you can still use it. Just dump a little in.
Just don't overload the smoke unit like mentioned.

I hear good stuff about JT Megasteam, I will have to pick me up a bottle I never tried it yet. The hardest part will be picking out a flavor.


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

Big Ed, the difference is quite nice. For me the scent was an easy choice, coal fired steamer  I have about 1/2 bottle of original Lionel pellets, and did a direct comparison. Sold!!!! MegaSteam is a really nice product, best of all no residue left behind. The pellets may last a bit longer, but I'll trade the available scents and cleaner run for duration.

Carl


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