# Pulling & replacing axles on a Lionel prewar 259E?



## clovis (Jan 5, 2014)

I was inspired by another thread to rethink a rough Lionel 259E that I own.

I have reason to believe that this engine was dropped very hard at some point in it's life, and think that the main drive axles are bent.

I searched for a long while looking for a replacement motor, but I don't want to spend much on this engine. It would be easy to sink more into this engine than what a good original would cost.

(I need both front and rear trucks, and a draw bar assembly. The main drive wheels are chipped too.) 

How hard is it to pull the existing axles?

How hard is it to replace the axles and wheels?

I own a ton of tools, but none that are specific to train repair. Would I need special tools?

Are the axles available as reproduction parts? Wheels? Are they expensive? Are they common to other Lionel engines of the period?

If I could pull this repair off without it costing too much, I might just try it. 

Thanks in advance!!!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You can buy wheels and axles from Henning's Trains, they have a large stock of pre-war and post-war parts. You'll need a wheel puller or a homemade equivalent to pull the wheels. You can usually put them back on with a vise and some wooden blocks.


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## clovis (Jan 5, 2014)

Thank you, John.

I should probably buy a wheel puller. 

Does anyone else have the parts, other than Hennings? I just bought a $50 postwar accessory from them on ebay, and I am not a happy camper. I emailed them three days ago about the poorly described piece, and haven't heard a word back.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'm sure others have them, try The Train Tender.


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## clovis (Jan 5, 2014)

Thank you, John. I appreciate your time and expertise! 

Have you ever pulled an wheel and axle from a prewar motor? The area postwar repair guy says that pulling axles and replacing them "can be quite a job."

He wanted $50 for the repair.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The 259e had two versions. The older had red spoked wheels with a separate gear plate. The black version has cast geared wheels. That price is a deal for spoked wheels. parts go for 35 with out shipping.

Here is how I did it

You may have to enlarge the holes for cast wheels, in order for the axles to fit. Also you have to quarter them out. So the exact tooth has to be in the right place before pressing.

Removal is easy. I use steel stock speard across a vise with the wheel supported and with a drift pin hit the axle down.


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## clovis (Jan 5, 2014)

Thank you, T-Man.

The repair guy's quote was for labor only. Parts would be additional. 

Would you explain what you mean by "quarter them out"?

BTW, I have the later black version with cast wheels.

Is there any chance that I could find used wheels on ebay? What other engines used the same wheels and axles? I see partial postwar motor assemblies quite often, so I'd guess that pre-war units or wheels are out there.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

If the axles are bent, you can grab the wheel with a pair of pliers and straighten the axle. If the main axles are bent, be careful as the die cast wheels are somewhat fragile.

I have removed several wheels with nothing more than a punch and hammer. Use a drift punch which has a straight shank and flat end. Locos that I have removed wheels from are 2353, 736 pony truck, 44 ton switcher.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The wheels on a steamer have the rod connections at exactly 90 degrees from each other, that's known as quartering. You have to put the wheels on the axles (really the second wheel) exactly right. There are quartering stands to make this easy, but I've seen people do them by eye. If you get this wrong, the rods will bind and the locomotive will not function.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

If it doesn't work you can't break it, can you? Give it a shot. Worst case is you still need someone to fix it.


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## clovis (Jan 5, 2014)

Thank you for your help, everyone!!! 

I really do appreciate your input, advice, and time.

I've started to watch for parts on ebay. I have looked on and off for a few years. Truth be known, this engine isn't worth putting much money into. 

The shell is fairly straight, which is it's strongest asset. Most guys would repaint it, but a good clean up and wax _might_ help it some.

My 259E is missing all of the screws holding the motor to the shell, and it is also missing the side rods.

The smart guy would sell it on ebay to someone else. Even though it is a total junker right now, the engine does have some sentimental value to me, so it would be hard to sell it. 

I will tackle this engine at some point. My next move will probably be to try to bend the axles as suggested. Would that possibly bend the motor frame?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The screws are easy to come by, so are the side rods.


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## clovis (Jan 5, 2014)

Thank you, John.

I am surprised that the repro front and rear trucks have dropped in price so much.

I am beginning to think that if I bought a pair of axles, I might be able to do the job and have a running engine when I'm done.

I am appreciative of everyone's time and expertise!


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## clovis (Jan 5, 2014)

I had a chat with the area repair guy today about the 259E axle replacement.

He says it is a tough job, but for $6 in parts for the axles, I think I am going to try it. I'll opt to keep the original wheels, since the cost would exceed the value of the engine.

I've got to work through another issue with the motor...getting it to run. That would probably be the first thing I need to address, LOL.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

A later model 259e would be easier. New wheels are more difficult, so go ahead and try it.


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## clovis (Jan 5, 2014)

Thank you, T-man.

I _think_ I have the latest version of the 259E. 

Mine is black, and has die cast wheels very similar to the early post war scout engines.

I read about the different versions at one time, but I've slept since then.


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