# I have finally done it



## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

I have finally purchased an NCE Power Cab and a 10 pack of NCE decoders. Converted two Blue Box locomotives today. Built a test track with four feet of track just to test things out. Plan to wait a bit to convert the layout. Once I have several locomotive converted then I will convert part of the layout. Use the DC locos from the shelf to fill in temporarily.

Plan to convert a Bachmann Spectrum Dash 9, Proto 2000 GP 18, Older Atlas GP 35, Riverossi E7 (getting a cary shell too) and a Bachmann Plus in addition to some other blue box locomotives over the next month.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

The main thing to note before you cut any wires is the wire for
the DC motor that goes to the 'right' rail (looking down on the
top of the loco). The decoder instructions will tell you which
color coded wire should go to that motor wire. This will ensure
that your loco will go forward when your controller commands that.

Note also, that the blue wire is COMMON for lights, it is POSITIVE
polarity if you have LED lights.

As always, make sure the motor is totally isolated from the frame.
Electricians or other tape is satisfactory for this.

Don


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Great work! The more you do the easier it gets. Be careful with those NCE decoders, they don't stand much handling, the wires can pull off the board very easily, if you have that type. Wheel pick up wiring is easy to remember, R- Red = Right. Black = Left. You might get the motor wires back to front as not all manufactures stick to the same colour coding, don't worry, just reverse them if it runs the wrong way. It might be worth investing in a roll of Kapton tape, it won't go all gooey over time like black electricians tape. I guess you've already got some heatshrink tube.


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

Prior to writing the origination post I had done an old Athearn BB that was pre-flywheel and one that I had previously upgraded the motor in. 

The pre flywheel was the hardest of the two. After adding flywheels, cleaning the com, swapping the copper clips, cleaning to wheels and making it run like a top on DC I started the conversion. Received instructions from a few YouTube videos and installed the decoder in short time. Ran first time on the track.

Second one was easy since the wires were already to go from when I upgraded the motor years ago.

I am glad I took the LHS owners advice and purchased the 10 pack with the harness and the decoder rather than the decoders with the wires on them. I feel more confident wiring a harness in and then pluging in the chip rather than having it all connected from the start.

From the look of it the Blue Box may be the hardest to do.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Have I missed out on something AGAIN? What is the 'harness and decoder'
instead of the decoder with wires on it?

Is it a wiring scheme with a jack to plug in a decoder as in
DCC ready?

Got a pic of it?

Don


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Some decoders now come with a socket on the board for a JST plug.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

So Cyclops, is the jack there to 'plug in', for example,
ditch lights, or cab lights? Else, what do you plug
into a loco decoder?

Don


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

DonR said:


> Have I missed out on something AGAIN? What is the 'harness and decoder'
> instead of the decoder with wires on it?
> 
> Is it a wiring scheme with a jack to plug in a decoder as in
> ...


The NCE 10 pack of decoders that I purchased came with 10 harnesses to solder in and 10 decoders. Basically by adding the harnesses to the loco it makes it DCC ready, then the decoder just plugs into the harness. In the future if I want to upgrade the decoder I just unplug it and plug a new one in.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

DonR said:


> So Cyclops, is the jack there to 'plug in', for example,
> ditch lights, or cab lights? Else, what do you plug
> into a loco decoder?
> 
> Don


It just means you have a plug on the decoder as well as the one that plugs into the eight pin or whatever.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I like the 'harness' and plug in decoder system
TKruger has described. Guess you could easily
upgrade to sound that way also.

Also, if there were some decoder failure,
replacement is just a plug in. Nice

Don


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

Sorry I should have added this link sooner to remove any confusion. This is the NCE page for the decoders that I am using. I am not sure what the actual term is for the harness / plug etc. There is a picture at the bottom of the link. My LHS sells these in 10 packs for $119. At that price how can I go wrong. $11.99 to convert a locomotive to DCC! I bought the Power Cab for $150. Stayed under my $300 entry budget. I wanted sound but for now that is out of my price bracket. Taking steps in the right direction.

https://ncedcc.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/201382375-D13SRJ


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

This does seem an excellent value, half the cost
of a single decoder.

Those DC guys who are thinking of converting their
DC loco fleet can certainly profit with them.

Don


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