# 322 recondition



## AFnew2 (Aug 28, 2016)

I could use some help and advise on a 322 I just purchased.
I thought the field coil was smoked but it reads 8 ohms. last strand a little loose. armature windings = 7 ohms between segments and I polished the commutator. Looks like supposed to be 5 wires but I only see 4. I wanted to post pictures but had trouble downloading. Can do later. e unit and speaker on tender.
gears turn free. Next move? should I trust motor coils? Any advise would help as I am still learning and I would really like to salvage this gem.


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## AFnew2 (Aug 28, 2016)

*322*

forgot to add that white insulator on right rear wheel is worn away.
Can I replace insulator or do I replace whole wheel?


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Are you sure you have a 322??.... 324, 325, and 326 are the only ones I see with the speaker in the tender, but I could be wrong..Is the white insulator loose, or just shot?? You can fix the insulator by using instant glue, but be sure all oil and grease is removed from rim... Need pictures buddy.


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## AFnew2 (Aug 28, 2016)

*322?*


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

That's a Northern, possibly a K335 or a 336. By the looks of the large armature, I would say a 336...


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## AFnew2 (Aug 28, 2016)

*My mistake*

it is a 336...head up my #$%^& again


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

That looks like the large motor version of the 336. The resistance of both the field and the armature should be .8 to 1.0 ohms. Are you sure the meter is on the correct scale? I expect there should be 5 wires between the engine and tender. 4 on the plug, one soldered. The plastic white insulators for the wheels can be purchased separately.


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## AFnew2 (Aug 28, 2016)

*336*

Sorry for all the errors tonight.....raising 4 daughters finally took its toll. It is .7 and .8 so even though field winding looks dark it still reads good so I can ressamble. Looks like I can just remove rear linkage to replace white insulator. One pin was missing a wire and it appears there is one wire missing from e unit. I will try to find a diagram. Maybe not as bad as I 1st thought. Gonna clean e unit next. I was starting to think that bad wheel insulator caused a bad short and fried coil. It looked really black but did not smell burnt. Thanks again and I will try to be more accurate in the future.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

AFnew2 said:


> Sorry for all the errors tonight.....raising 4 daughters finally took its toll. It is .7 and .8 so even though field winding looks dark it still reads good so I can ressamble. Looks like I can just remove rear linkage to replace white insulator. One pin was missing a wire and it appears there is one wire missing from e unit. I will try to find a diagram. Maybe not as bad as I 1st thought. Gonna clean e unit next. I was starting to think that bad wheel insulator caused a bad short and fried coil. It looked really black but did not smell burnt. Thanks again and I will try to be more accurate in the future.


To replace that insulator the wheel has to come off. New ones can be bought, but they are a tight fit, and must be sanded down a tad for a good fit. For best results use a wheel puller, and don't forget, you must re-quarter the wheel set. For a great visual diagram, go to the PortLines website and get their wiring diagram. I printed out mine years ago and still use it.Be sure to use the 5 wire diagram...


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## AFnew2 (Aug 28, 2016)

*336*

thanks for wheel info...good to know
1st attempt at this but I want to try it
Would you trust reinstalling field winding?


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## AFnew2 (Aug 28, 2016)

*wheel*

What glue/adhesive do you recommend for wheel insulator?


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Have not replaced an insulator but when the rim comes loose I just use two drops of superglue and press the rim back on. Seems to work fine.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Regarding the question on the field. The resistance measured within new tolerance so it should work.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

AFnew2 said:


> What glue/adhesive do you recommend for wheel insulator?


Instant glue, crazy glue, CA, all will work.. That is the standard fix for loose white rims.


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## AFnew2 (Aug 28, 2016)

*336 running*


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## AFnew2 (Aug 28, 2016)

*Tender 336*

OK engine runs...now I've got to figure out the tender wiring.
What are the spring loaded shoes on the bottom for?
I have only seen them on Diesels. One spring is shot.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

AFnew2 said:


> OK engine runs...now I've got to figure out the tender wiring.
> What are the spring loaded shoes on the bottom for?
> I have only seen them on Diesels. One spring is shot.


I don't think they do anything on the 336. portLines has your wiring diagram.... By the way, YOU DA MAN!!


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

The spring loaded shoes are for improved power pickup. They were included with all the tenders that had the air chime whistle.


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## AFnew2 (Aug 28, 2016)

*shoes*

Thanks...engine running....PM e unit next ....then get into air chime which I am clueless on. Kinda fun bringing these old engines back to life.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

AFnew2 said:


> Thanks...engine running....PM e unit next ....then get into air chime which I am clueless on. Kinda fun bringing these old engines back to life.


Yep, but every once in awhile, I come across one that I'd like to throw against the wall,lol!!!!!!!!!!!:laugh::laugh:


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## AFnew2 (Aug 28, 2016)

*engine repair*

I had one I got running and repaired the smoke unit. Had it purring on the test bench. Then I put it on the track and got nothing but e unit switching.


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## AFnew2 (Aug 28, 2016)

*336 Tender*

Rewired tender tonight.......e unit hung up at 1st but I put a little oil on the hinge and a lot better now. Eliminated the whistle circuit to make it easier......figure I can always add back in later.
Main thing was to get it running. Smoke and wheel only things left but just happy to get running with tender for now Any input please do not hesitate to add as I can use all the advise I can get.


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## AFnew2 (Aug 28, 2016)

*Smoke unit*

let some fluid sit over night and ran engine today... smoke unit started working.. surprised me


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