# track turn radius



## ocnscale (Dec 20, 2012)

I am putting the finishing touches on my n scale layout, so I am starting to plan out my ho layout. I am building it on the wall like a shelf style layout. At one end I want to loop the track around a support beam and then reconnect to the mainline. I need to find out how much room it will take and what track pieces I would need to do that. I am still new to this and any help would be greatly appreciated!


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## Don Trinko (Oct 23, 2012)

I'm no expert but I know 18" radius is normal and I think 15" is available. There may be tighter than 15" but I am not sure. Don


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## cv_acr (Oct 28, 2011)

18"R is what usually comes in HO train sets.

It's pretty sharp though, and will restrict you from longer equipment. I would not ever go with 15"R; that'll pretty much only handle 40' cars and short engines.

22"R is I think the largest radius that sectional track is available in. 

Any other radius you'd need to do with flextrack.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

What the guys have said is right on. 

Main thing is to make your reverse curves as wide a radius as your
space will permit. They will look better and run better.

If you are planning a single track in what is known as a dog bone...
a loop at either end...be aware that you will have to gap your track,
isolate the two loops and install automatic reverse loop controllers if you
plan DCC. Once installed they do the bothersome polarity matching
and you just run trains. 

If you are going DC it gets very complicated electrically and operationally. 

Don


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## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

DonR said:


> What the guys have said is right on.
> 
> Main thing is to make your reverse curves as wide a radius as your
> space will permit. They will look better and run better.
> ...


If you're using Tortoise Switch Machines then you don't need the auto reverse. There's a DPDT relay built in that I use to switch polarity when I move a turnout in my reverse loop.


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## BK R (Dec 8, 2012)

EZ track comes in sizes up to 33" r, like has been said 18 and under is only useable for short locos and wagons


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Go as big as you can. If you want the freedom to run just about anything on the tracks go with a minimum 24" radius and you'll be fine.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Hutch

Very interesting suggestion to use the Tortoise DPDT switch to control
your reverse loops. I am assuming you are running DCC. So the track in the loop is set to the same polarity as the 'main' by the turnout. Then when the train goes around and again
nears that same turnout you throw it again and polarity again matches. Actually you
could throw anytime after the loco clears the gapped joints.
The train ignores it all since the track is AC. Right? 

It could not work on a DC layout tho since the loop polarity could not be changed
while the loco is in it else it would go in reverse direction. Right?

Don


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## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

You got it. When I did this in DC I used a pair of switches that I would throw at the same time as the turnout switch. You would see a little hesitation but not much.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Nice idea Hutch...some of the other guys may want to use that inexpensive
way to operate a reverse loop.

But I just noticed your Avatar. I ran my computer screen to max and I can't
make out what it is...do I see a person's head behind some mist and maybe
an older car? What is it? Or should I just down another martini and forget it? 

Don


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## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

That's Gomez blowing up his trains on the Adams Family.


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## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

Here's a schematic for the method I used to control a reverse loop in DC. Just put the switches right next to each other and flip em both when the full train is in the loop.
Better not leave that one the way it was.:retard:


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Hutch

Gomez has been messing with your drawing. 

Look at it again. 

I understand what you are doing but I do have doubts
the train would move very fast with that lash up. I see
both rails getting + in one way and - in the other.

Or has he been messing with my noggin? 

I would put the track on the center tabs, track power from buss on one end and
the inverse of it on the other thru an X wire scheme. I'm betting that's what
you did also. 

Honestly, I could not make out the scene in your avatar...the
enlarged pic explains it. Fun.

Don


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## Gansett (Apr 8, 2011)

No, no, no. You're both wrong,,,here like this


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## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

You caught me Don. How about this.


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## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

:laugh:Jack, you're drawing is at least as helpful as my first one.


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## ocnscale (Dec 20, 2012)

Thank you all, you guys rock!


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Jack

Gol dern it...you have the circuit for my capacitor discharge matrix
yard track switching system. I wondered what happened to it. 

If you want a really snazzy LED lighted semi automatic control
panel for your whole basement layout that's the way to go. :smilie_daumenpos:

Yep, Hutch.

I thought you knew what you were doing...just a slip of
the drawing program.

Don


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## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

Yeah, I drew that up really quick when I should have been doing other things, like working. I should never do anything fast, it never works well.


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## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

I want to put up one more proper drawing of this since I believe this is a much better way to do a reverse loop especially if your using switch machines that include a DPDT switch in them like the Tortoise. I use this circuit for DCC but it can be used with DC as well. I can't imagine any reason for buying a Auto Reverse board unless you just like them for some reason unknown to me.







Hope no one mind this re-post. I almost think it should be a sticky.


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## Willyrail1 (Nov 17, 2011)

I don't wish to be the "witch that brews the potion" but perhaps someone could suggest to the newbies that easements and super elevations should be considered while laying track. 
I'm still trying to figure out the easements on my own layout.


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