# Question Regarding Kato Terminal Unijoiners



## JStussy (Dec 31, 2020)

Hello,
I'm planning on expanding my current 4 x 8 Kato WGH layout to a 5 x (nearly) 10 layout with industry sidings, two reversing loops (in a sideways figure-8 configuration), and a yard. I plan on using two Bachmann Auto-Reverse Modules for the reversing loops, and plan on connecting them to four Kato Terminal Unijoiners placed on the reversing loop (and main) tracks. I've included a screenshot of my layout plan for clarification, and will likely be connecting the Auto-Reverse Modules to the tracks forming the bottom triangular portion. I've also read that the tracks prior to the reversing loops need to be insulated, and have purchased insulated unijoiners for this purpose. I'm aware that the unijoiners from the Unitrack need to be disconnected/removed before installing the Terminal Unijoiners, but, having never used them before, am wondering if each end of the Terminal Unijoiner (one with the white wire, the other blue) needs to be connected to the ends of the tracks they will be going between. I've also put the Feeder Track at the bottom of my oval/main line, so I don't think there should be any connection issues with it and the Terminal Unijoiners. I welcome any thoughts/suggestions on this matter. Thank you very much .


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## Gramps (Feb 28, 2016)

I can't answer that and if you can't get an answer here I suggest you go to Kato USA website and contact them directly. Good luck.


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

This will be for dcc, right...?

The four *red bars* indicate where I'd put INSULATING Unijoiners.
The four *blue bars* indicate where I'd put TERMINAL Unijoiners.









*BE AWARE:*
Kato includes a "removal tool" with the Unijoiners (I think) that is supposed to be able to remove them by "prying them off" track segments.

But I've found these don't always work that well.

What DOES work is a VERY small flat-bladed screwdriver -- the kind like you find in "eyeglass repair kits". You have to turn the track over, and "get into the joint" and dislodge the joiner. They snap in VERY snugly. It takes a little practice, you'll get used to it.

*ALSO:*
If you're going use the Kato feed wires, and drill holes and run the wiring down under the track, you need to "prep" the feed wires before installing them.
By this I mean:
1. Note that there is small "collar" around the blue/white wires near the joiners. What I found best is to gently "clip off" this collar, then PULL THE WIRES APART for about 2 inches. You want both joiners kind of "hanging loose". Makes it easier to manipulate them.

I also spent $10 and bought this pin removal tool, which I use to pop the wiring out of the plastic connectors (to run them through the holes under the track):








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A note about Kato switches:
The powered #4 switches are "power routing" and this CANNOT BE CHANGED.
Not necessarily "a bad thing", as using them can automatically isolate equipment you might not want running.

For example, in your track plan, if the switches "at the bottom" (where the station is) are power-routing, it will cut off power to locomotives stopped in the station tracks when the switches are lined against them.

I believe that all the OTHER Kato switches can be set for either power-routing or non-power-routing by relocating two screws on the underside of the switch.


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## JStussy (Dec 31, 2020)

Hello, and thank you for your reply . Yes, I do plan on using a Bachmann EZ Command DCC Controller (and DCC-equipped locomotives) on my layout; the only DC/analog engine I plan on using is a switcher I'll have in the yard, and the EZ Command Controller has the option to run one DC locomotive. I've also consulted previously with the folks at my model railroad club regarding placement of insulated unijoiners and terminal unijoiners, and they're pretty much in agreement with what you've suggested here, with the only exception being that they said I could connect two terminal unijoiners (and the two auto-reverse modules I'll need) to the passing siding track leading into the bottom station, as they said it constitutes a "MAIN" track and not a "LOOP" track. 

With regards to the switches/turnouts on my layout, all of them are manually operated, as I'm still a model railroading novice and haven't dealt much with powered switches yet. I also figured I can hide the wires from the unijoiners (and the Auto-Reverse Modules themselves) under the foam sheets I'll use for my scenery foundation (with the track situated on Woodland Scenics risers), but I'll certainly look into purchasing the tool you mentioned, and will consider using a flat-head screwdriver instead of the unijoiner removal tool.

Thank you again!!




J.Albert1949 said:


> This will be for dcc, right...?
> 
> The four *red bars* indicate where I'd put INSULATING Unijoiners.
> The four *blue bars* indicate where I'd put TERMINAL Unijoiners.
> ...


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

While it may say it can run a DC locomotive, don't do it. You will eventually ruin the motor in the DC locomotive. You will need to convert it to DCC, usually not a difficult task.


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## JStussy (Dec 31, 2020)

I hadn't considered that, thank you for letting me know . The locomotive I purchased for switching purposes is the 
Bachmann HO USRA Pennsylvania 0-6-0 #3233, and I'm not entirely sure if it is DCC compatible. Moreover, while I have seen other members of my model railroad club install DCC decoders on their engines, this is not something I've done yet and will likely have to learn how to do. Thank you again for your help!!




Lemonhawk said:


> While it may say it can run a DC locomotive, don't do it. You will eventually ruin the motor in the DC locomotive. You will need to convert it to DCC, usually not a difficult task.


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## prrfan (Dec 19, 2014)

Regarding the Unijoiner Removal Tool: I’m not trying to be a wise guy here, but I’ve been using Kato track for years and never had any trouble with removing Unijoiners with the tool. 
What does happen is that it’s easy to inadvertently turn the tool the wrong way. That thing has a flat side and a notched side. The flat side goes against the track and the notched side goes out. With a quick snap, the Unijoiner comes off, 100% percent of the time, if it’s oriented properly. (For me, anyway.)
I have found some imperfections in the Unitrack and turnout systems but using the tool has not been one of them.


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

*OP:*

As mentioned above, you DO NOT want to try running your DC engine on dcc track.
A good way to burn out the motor and electronics!


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## JStussy (Dec 31, 2020)

OK, thank you for letting me know. I've never removed a Unijoiner before, and was unsure of which way to orient the Removal Tool.



prrfan said:


> Regarding the Unijoiner Removal Tool: I’m not trying to be a wise guy here, but I’ve been using Kato track for years and never had any trouble with removing Unijoiners with the tool.
> What does happen is that it’s easy to inadvertently turn the tool the wrong way. That thing has a flat side and a notched side. The flat side goes against the track and the notched side goes out. With a quick snap, the Unijoiner comes off, 100% percent of the time, if it’s oriented properly. (For me, anyway.)
> I have found some imperfections in the Unitrack and turnout systems but using the tool has not been one of them.


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## JStussy (Dec 31, 2020)

OK, thank you for letting me know . The locomotive I purchased for switching purposes is the Bachmann USRA 0-6-0 #3233 PRR locomotive with a tender, light, and smoke function. I didn't see anything regarding the engine being DCC-equipped, so I'm guessing I'll have to purchase a DCC decoder and install it somehow.



J.Albert1949 said:


> *OP:*
> As mentioned above, you DO NOT want to try running your DC engine on dcc track.
> A good way to burn out the motor and electronics!


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

Installing a decoder on a steam locomotive that has no socket requires isolating the drive motor from the chassis and soldering skills. The second problem is trying to figure out where to mount it.

You might check You Tube and see if videos are available for mounting a decoder in small steam locomotives. Model railroaders are a creative bunch and I'm certain someone has stuffed a decoder in that size locomotive. 

If nothing else and the wires are long enough it can be mounted in the tender. You can always add wire.


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## JStussy (Dec 31, 2020)

OK, thank you for letting me know. I've seen some DCC decoders that are no larger than a penny, so I figured I can put one in the locomotive's tender. Moreover, while I've never installed a decoder myself (nor have I used a soldering iron), I do know some folks in my model railroading club with that sort of experience, and, if that doesn't work, I believe my local hobby shop can install DCC decoders for a price.



MichaelE said:


> Installing a decoder on a steam locomotive that has no socket requires isolating the drive motor from the chassis and soldering skills. The second problem is trying to figure out where to mount it.
> 
> You might check You Tube and see if videos are available for mounting a decoder in small steam locomotives. Model railroaders are a creative bunch and I'm certain someone has stuffed a decoder in that size locomotive.
> 
> If nothing else and the wires are long enough it can be mounted in the tender. You can always add wire.


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

*OP:*

There's also a Bachmann online forum where you should be able to get some help regarding installing dcc into the switcher you have.


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## JStussy (Dec 31, 2020)

Indeed . I've also posted to that forum before, though only regarding the configuration (and assembly) of my reversing loops. I'll try posting there about installing DCC decoder(s) in my engine, and will see what sort of replies I get.



J.Albert1949 said:


> *OP:*
> 
> There's also a Bachmann online forum where you should be able to get some help regarding installing dcc into the switcher you have.


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