# S-Gauge Train and Hot Wheels racing



## gravitythrottle (10 mo ago)

Greetings everyone! This is Mark H. I want to integrate an S-gauge train track with an off-road Hot Wheels downhill racetrack. I know a lot about designing and building homemade racetracks with realistic scenery, but virtually nothing about S-gauge trains. I could really use some guidance! And yes, I want to jump Hot Wheels over the train. 

Here are a couple of pictures of my track. For perspective, you can check out my racing channel at Gravity Throttle Racing - YouTube.


















HELP
I have some unique challenges to build a new off-road Hot Wheels racetrack with a S-gauge train.

1. The cars race down a 6 to 7 percent grade. Is that too steep for a model train to navigate either uphill or downhill?
2. Do I have to build a closed loop train layout to power the train?
3. What is the min turn radius for S-gauge? What has been your experience?
4. I started using AnyRail software to design a track. The software provides 4 S-gauge tracks: GarGraves, S American Models, S American Flyer, and S MTH S-Trax. What track would suite me best? Are these tracks interchangeable? Note, I want a 1970's or later look and feel. I read that MTH sold S-gauge to scaletrains.com, but I didn't see any S-gauge products on the scaletrains website. Can someone enlighten me on MTH S-Trax situation? It looks like a good choice.
5. Are S-scale trains interchangeable on any of the 4 tracks I previously mentioned?
6. Any recommendations where I should shop online for a project like this? Who can I contact for helpful advice?

Thank you in advance!

Cheers,
Mark H.
[email protected]


----------



## HowardH (Sep 18, 2020)

Wow - so cool! One of the reasons I enjoy S scale is the plentiful supply of 1:64 diecast cars available. There are guys on the forum much more into the nuts-and-bolts than I, but I'll give it a shot:
1) If by "train" you mean a locomotive pulling some cars, 6-7% grade is way too steep. I'm using 2.5% grade, which might be max for a decent-length train.
2) No, you can run a train on just a length of track - but for what you're doing, I'd think a loop would let you just run your train and focus on your cars, rather than forward-stop, backward-stop, etc.
3) I run American Flyer, which has a 19" (20") radius. That's good for most of what's out there - but those running bigger locomotives go with 27" minimum or wider.
4) Yeah, bummer about MTH. I've gotten some good stuff from American Models. There's also S scale in the Lionel catalogue. Check out Charles Ro Trains online - they've also got some of the old MTH stuff. And if you get into American Flyer, there's always eBay. (But unless you want to develop a whole different level of expertise, stay away from listings marked "untested").
5) For most S-scalers, there's a distinction made between "Hi-Rail AF" and "scale". AF track's great, but "scale" track is dimensions of real rail done at 1:64 scale. Of course, the size of the wheel should match the size of the rail - and then the couplers may or may not be compatible. But then, there are some highly detailed scale locomotives and rolling stock available (from places like American Models and Lionel) designed to run on hi-rail track.
6) Thanks for reaching out. I don't know where you're located, but my best advice would be to find a local train store and stop by for a visit. Folks work there because they're into it, and love being able to help out people when they can.
Good luck!


----------



## Mixed Freight (Aug 31, 2019)

Hi Mark,

If you're not too big a stickler on scale fidelity, don't overlook O27 O-gauge model trains. A lot of them are closer to 1/64th size than they are 1/48th size, even though they run on 1/48th size track. And the stuff would probably be a lot more available and a considerably more affordable than S-gauge items. Unless you can get a good deal on some S-gauge stuff, of course.

Just a thought, good luck with your endeavor!


----------



## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Welcome to the MTF! I have also had an interest in scale race cars and have a 1/64 race track but it is not integrated into my layout. I think what you are looking for is what we call High rail rather than scale. Howard explained that above. I will include pictures below of SHS/MTH flex track (recommended for what you plan) and SHS/MTH sectional track. The sectional track is easier but very limiting. GarGraves makes sectional and flex but the tie size and rail height will be way out of proportion to your cars.
The biggest manufacturer of S gauge cars and engines is Lionel. Next is American Models. Scale Trains purchased the SHS Showcase Line from MTH but it will be one to two years until they bring any S gauge product to market.
Here are some pictures. First in SHS/MTH flex track. Second is their sectional track.


----------



## gravitythrottle (10 mo ago)

AmFlyer said:


> Welcome to the MTF! I have also had an interest in scale race cars and have a 1/64 race track but it is not integrated into my layout. I think what you are looking for is what we call High rail rather than scale. Howard explained that above. I will include pictures below of SHS/MTH flex track (recommended for what you plan) and SHS/MTH sectional track. The sectional track is easier but very limiting. GarGraves makes sectional and flex but the tie size and rail height will be way out of proportion to your cars.
> The biggest manufacturer of S gauge cars and engines is Lionel. Next is American Models. Scale Trains purchased the SHS Showcase Line from MTH but it will be one to two years until they bring any S gauge product to market.
> Here are some pictures. First in SHS/MTH flex track. Second is their sectional track.
> 
> ...


Thanks Tom. This helps. Your layout is beautiful! I certainly see the value of using the flex track. Questions: Is your SHS/MTH track the high rail or scale? According to Howard shouldn't I use scale instead of high rail, or did I miss something? Please educate me. Does Lionel and American Models make engines and cars exclusive to scale and high rail, or are they interchangeable? Is the black vehicle (guessing early 1950's) a true 1:64 scale car? Can the same be said about the buildings and people in the pictures? Sorry for the barrage of questions. -Mark H.


----------



## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

The track on my layout is MTH flex. The rail is code 138. I can operate either scale or high rail equipment on it. A scale layout would use code 100 or smaller rail. The problem is no high rail equipment will run on it. There are plenty of scale car and engine suppliers but not Lionel. Most AM engines and cars can be ordered with scale wheels. SSA is a key supplier of S scale freight cars. River Raisin makes S scale engines but these are $2k and up. As you can see from the Lionel Y3 engine in my top picture the Lionel high rail (and the AM) is highly detailed.
All the cars and trucks and people on my layout are 1/64 scale. Same for the structures.
Here are a few more pictures.
I know I have not answered all your questions. Please just ask us and we can provide replies based on many decades of experience in S gauge.


----------



## gravitythrottle (10 mo ago)

AmFlyer said:


> The track on my layout is MTH flex. The rail is code 138. I can operate either scale or high rail equipment on it. A scale layout would use code 100 or smaller rail. The problem is no high rail equipment will run on it. There are plenty of scale car and engine suppliers but not Lionel. Most AM engines and cars can be ordered with scale wheels. SSA is a key supplier of S scale freight cars. River Raisin makes S scale engines but these are $2k and up. As you can see from the Lionel Y3 engine in my top picture the Lionel high rail (and the AM) is highly detailed.
> All the cars and trucks and people on my layout are 1/64 scale. Same for the structures.
> Here are a few more pictures.
> I know I have not answered all your questions. Please just ask us and we can provide replies based on many decades of experience in S gauge.
> ...


Tom, without a doubt you've accelerated my learning. I understand much better the track and locomotive options. During my research I came across a brand of track that said something about the rail height being taller than scale, but less than hi-rail (something like 0.148"). Trains that are equipped with hi-rail flanged wheels could ride on it. Do you know what I'm referring to? Thanks again! -Mark


----------



## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Mark, .148 rail is American Models track. It is in fact taller and less scale-like than the SHS/MTH (and Lionel S gauge FasTrack and FVM track.) The Track in my pictures is MTH and is .138" tall, quite a bit less than the .148" of AM. The .138 rail is the smallest that will accommodate high rail flanges. Original Gilbert track and GarGraves track is much taller, more like .22".
To open a can of worms, the real issue is turnout availability. FVM makes .138 rail #5 turnouts but they are sold out and back ordered. Lionel makes 20" and 27" radius turnouts with that rail and can be mated to flex track with a slight amount of work. SHS/MTH made only 20"R turnouts and they are out of production but can be found on internet sites. I have a bunch of them for sectional track layouts.
For my layout in the pictures I paid some very talented people a large sum of money to hand lay 45 #5, #6 and #8 turnouts using rail from MTH flex track. MTH flex is out of production but still available from S gauge retailers like Port Lines.


----------



## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Mark, when you have a chance it would help if you could share your thoughts on what you are looking to do with the trains integrated into the Hot Wheels setup. If it is just a loop or two of track that may lead to a different recommendation than if you are looking for a more complex train segment with turnouts, sidings etc. With trains, grades will be your challenge. Toy trains can climb 5% grades but do not look good doing it and it limits what kind of equipment is used, My layout has a maximum grade of 2.5% hidden in a tunnel. All the visible grades are 2% or less.
The challenge I find with S scale operation (rather than high rail) is it limits engine and rolling stock selection and track work requires absolute perfection to prevent derailments. However for simple loops of track it can be done. There is also a difference in power and controls between Scale and high rail.
Below is a picture of a 3 axle truck on one of my American Models heavyweight passenger cars. The two outside axles have high rail wheels, the center axle has scale wheels. Note in addition to the bigger flanges, the high rail wheels have an angle on the flanges to help keep the wheels on the rails.


----------



## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Sorry for the multiple posts, there is one more key scale vs high rail and that is traction tires. All modern production high rail engines have traction tires so one engine can pull most any train, even up 2% grades. Engines with scale wheels do not have traction tires so most any train will require at least double heading the engines. I have some American Models engines with scale wheels, one engine will not even start a 6 car passenger train on level track.


----------



## gravitythrottle (10 mo ago)

Tom, your "multiple" posts are great. The objectives of my layout will be nothing like a conventional train set. My layout would actually be stupid simple: no turnouts or sidings and probably not a loop. See below. First, the Hot Wheels track is usually on a 5-7% downhill grade depending on what features & obstacles I include. This is obvious since gravity is the cars only means of propulsion. I film the cars using a GoPro with a handheld gimbal. The goal is to have a steady drone-like shot that captures the racing action. It also tends to remove the feeling that they are traveling downhill. I will need to do the same for the train. 

So... picture a S-gauge train traveling down a 7% grade. That would look silly and unrealistic at real speed. However, I film at 120 fps and slow the video down to 55-60% actual speed. Thru the camera lens, the racing looks more realistic and the downhill feeling is diminished. I'm hoping the same can be said for a train. For instance, if I release a train with a dummy locomotive at the top of a 7% grade, it just might accelerate & look like a highball train on a flat stretch at 55% actual speed. The pictures below are meant as an illustration of my thought process. After the train accelerates to the bottom of the grade it would circle back while decelerating on a level section. Before the next race I'd have to pick up the train and reposition it at the starting section. My plan is to make the track longer than what's shown below. This should give the train the room to decelerate before circling back. Perhaps I could landscape that area to make it appear as though the train is climbing up a pass.

Thanks for sharing the picture of the scale and high rail wheels. I probably need to go with high rail wheels since my layout is more like a runaway train situation. LOL!

What are your thoughts about it going down a 7% grade? Can an electric engine or locomotive handle that? Do you think it'll topple off the track or can I make slight turns near the top but keep it straight near the bottom? See second photo.


----------



## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Ok, I see what you want to do. Yes, it can be done. Any place the track curves an easement will be needed to transition from the straight to curved segment. Easements are easy with flex track, it naturally forms one when bent. Super elevation of the curves will be appropriate. This is easy with thin styrene plastic strips under the ties. Vertical easements are also required so the front of the engine does not scrape on the rails at the transition from slope to flat track. One is also needed at the top of the grade so the wheels will not climb out of the rails.
I do not see a problem with the 7% grade as you want to use it. Different manufacturers cars have different rolling resistance so its just a matter of getting the right combination. The Lionel AF cars have the highest rolling resistance. I can set one on a 2% grade and it will not move, with a light push it will roll a bit then come to a stop. With an AM or MTH car if I let one go on a 2% grade it will be approaching light speed at the bottom of the 200" run. A dummy diesel engine on the front will not be an issue. I am thinking you want a cut of about 5 cars plus the engine based on looking at your pictures. It would be really easy to get a powered engine to couple up to the back of the train to pull it up the hill back to the starting line.
I am kind of busy Monday and Tuesday, then I leave for 5 days. I will try to get out some spare track before I leave to mock up a 7% grade to test some cars. That way you will not need to guess what will work.


----------



## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

I assembled a 10' length of track and elevated it at an even 7% grade. Four different cars were tested, 1,a new, just out of the box Lionel AF boxcar, 2, a similar Lionel but one I had adjusted and lubricated, 3, an American Models boxcar and 4, a Gilbert link coupler car with carefully lubricated axles and proper wheel gauge. Results as follows. Car #1 began rolling, reached a reasonable speed after 6' and then ran steady the last four feet without gaining more speed. Car #2 started rolling and gained speed all the way down but the terminal velocity was reasonable. Car #3 stated gaining speed and was rolling 50% faster at the bottom than car #2. Car #4 ran the same as car #2.
Based on these results I would recommend using a powered engine to set the correct speed and let it run to the bottom. I would not use an unpowered dummy engine unless you want to film a runaway train. A powered engine with traction tires can push the train back to the starting point.


----------



## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Mark, while I had the pieces of flex track out I took two pictures. This should help you visualize the difference between the GarGraves hollow .220 rail and the MTH solid .138 rail. I recommend using the MTH. The scale appearance will compliment your detailed diorama. Each piece is a meter long, looks like you might need about 8 to 10 pieces. Ballasting is easy using HO sized commercial ballast and diluted white glue.


----------



## gravitythrottle (10 mo ago)

Tom, I apologize for the delay. First off, your 7% grade experiment is incredibly valuable. Thank you for doing that! Also, your pictures comparing the two tracks make it easy for me to agree with you. MTH track is the way to go. It'll be a bit before I start my project. We're actually in the middle of moving. However, I will continue to share my progress on this thread.
I'm interested in purchasing a S-gauge locomotive with sound and smoke. Do you have any recommendations for $600 or less?
The upper part of my Hot Wheels track will be a 4-lane off-road scene and there will be at least one jump over the train. What train cars would look most interesting when the Hot Wheels cars are jumping over them? Remember, my racing is all about filming at 120fps and slowing the film down to highlight the action.
The mid-section of the racetrack will transition to a highway, and there the HW cars will pass over the train. Further down I want the train to cross above the highway. What type of train bridge would have been constructed a 100-150 years ago (truss, cantilever, arch)? Or maybe the better question is what kind of bridge would look regal if it where 6-8" above where the cars were racing on the highway?
-Mark H.


----------



## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Mark, it sounds like from your time frame you want a steam engine. There is a big difference between 100 and 150 years ago. The early 1920's would have typical heavyweight passenger coaches made by Gilbert, Lionel and American Models. Freight cars would be woodside reefers and boxcars. I do not have any scale automobiles from the late teens or early 1920's. Are you sure on the time frame for the trains? 150 years ago there were no cars and the passenger trains would be open platform wood coaches. Only Gilbert made these coaches along with a matching engine with smoke and choo choo sounds. Most of the modern production steam engines are appropriate from 1930 through the late 1950's. Lionel FlyerChief engines would be the most cost effective choice, they come with a remote and have smoke and full sound.
You can use either passenger cars or freight cars. Get two sets of cars and have one set of each.
There are not a lot of detailed S gauge bridge choices, most are very toy-like. I will post some bridge pictures tomorrow. You also need to think about the style of the highway bridge/overpass.
It is actually good to have some time so as not to rush into purchases.


----------



## gravitythrottle (10 mo ago)

AmFlyer said:


> Are you sure on the time frame for the trains?


No, not really. Yesterday I went to the Wichita (Kansas) Toy Train Museum and talked to some of the members. The Berkshire locomotives and cars pictured below are about what I'm looking for, but I've got a bigger problem. It seems very difficult if not impossible to find S gauge track.


----------



## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

I have three of those Berkshires, a good choice. The one in your picture is a FlyerChief version that I recommend. There is a more detailed and more expensive Legacy version but I do not think that is what you are looking for.
The MTH flex track is available in quantity from Port Lines.


----------



## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

AmFlyer said:


> I have three of those Berkshires, a good choice. The one in your picture is a FlyerChief version that I recommend. There is a more detailed and more expensive Legacy version but I do not think that is what you are looking for.
> The MTH flex track is available in quantity from Port Lines.


Original Gilbert track is out there in large quantities, also GarGraves is available.


----------



## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

For bridges there are many choices. Here are three bridges on my layout that might work for your overhead rail crossing and for the highway overpass. These pictures were taken during construction. For the rail line bridge I recommend the style of the brown bridges with the UP coach posed on them. Alternatively, one section of the green plate style bridges. For the road overpass one arch of the concrete style would look good. To find a large selection of workable bridges look at the Walthers catalog, HO section. Many of the HO bridges work with S scale, just be sure to check the height and width for clearance. Most of the bridges on my layout were HO.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

AmFlyer said:


> For bridges there are many choices. Here are three bridges on my layout that might work for your overhead rail crossing and for the highway overpass. These pictures were taken during construction. For the rail line bridge I recommend the style of the brown bridges with the UP coach posed on them. Alternatively, one section of the green plate style bridges. For the road overpass one arch of the concrete style would look good. To find a large selection of workable bridges look at the Walthers catalog, HO section. Many of the HO bridges work with S scale, just be sure to check the height and width for clearance. Most of the bridges on my layout were HO.
> 
> View attachment 579566
> View attachment 579567
> ...


 Nice layout pictures. 
Love the old rigs rolling down the road.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

gravitythrottle said:


> Tom, your "multiple" posts are great. The objectives of my layout will be nothing like a conventional train set. My layout would actually be stupid simple: no turnouts or sidings and probably not a loop. See below. First, the Hot Wheels track is usually on a 5-7% downhill grade depending on what features & obstacles I include. This is obvious since gravity is the cars only means of propulsion. I film the cars using a GoPro with a handheld gimbal. The goal is to have a steady drone-like shot that captures the racing action. It also tends to remove the feeling that they are traveling downhill. I will need to do the same for the train.
> 
> So... picture a S-gauge train traveling down a 7% grade. That would look silly and unrealistic at real speed. However, I film at 120 fps and slow the video down to 55-60% actual speed. Thru the camera lens, the racing looks more realistic and the downhill feeling is diminished. I'm hoping the same can be said for a train. For instance, if I release a train with a dummy locomotive at the top of a 7% grade, it just might accelerate & look like a highball train on a flat stretch at 55% actual speed. The pictures below are meant as an illustration of my thought process. After the train accelerates to the bottom of the grade it would circle back while decelerating on a level section. Before the next race I'd have to pick up the train and reposition it at the starting section. My plan is to make the track longer than what's shown below. This should give the train the room to decelerate before circling back. Perhaps I could landscape that area to make it appear as though the train is climbing up a pass.
> 
> ...





gravitythrottle said:


> Tom, your "multiple" posts are great. The objectives of my layout will be nothing like a conventional train set. My layout would actually be stupid simple: no turnouts or sidings and probably not a loop. See below. First, the Hot Wheels track is usually on a 5-7% downhill grade depending on what features & obstacles I include. This is obvious since gravity is the cars only means of propulsion. I film the cars using a GoPro with a handheld gimbal. The goal is to have a steady drone-like shot that captures the racing action. It also tends to remove the feeling that they are traveling downhill. I will need to do the same for the train.
> 
> So... picture a S-gauge train traveling down a 7% grade. That would look silly and unrealistic at real speed. However, I film at 120 fps and slow the video down to 55-60% actual speed. Thru the camera lens, the racing looks more realistic and the downhill feeling is diminished. I'm hoping the same can be said for a train. For instance, if I release a train with a dummy locomotive at the top of a 7% grade, it just might accelerate & look like a highball train on a flat stretch at 55% actual speed. The pictures below are meant as an illustration of my thought process. After the train accelerates to the bottom of the grade it would circle back while decelerating on a level section. Before the next race I'd have to pick up the train and reposition it at the starting section. My plan is to make the track longer than what's shown below. This should give the train the room to decelerate before circling back. Perhaps I could landscape that area to make it appear as though the train is climbing up a pass.
> 
> ...


I wouldn't want to drive down that grade in my 18 wheeler, looks steep to me.  
But I don't run S scale either. 

Looking forward to seeing what you do.
Where did you find the backdrop?


----------



## gravitythrottle (10 mo ago)

Big Ed said:


> Where did you find the backdrop?


I actually found the sky backdrop at Christianbook.com. It was useful for my layout because I was able to hang it from the sloped ceiling. If you buy it, try laying it out and ironing it with a towel in between first. I didn't do that before hanging it and the wrinkles never went away.


----------



## gravitythrottle (10 mo ago)

gravitythrottle said:


> Greetings everyone! This is Mark H. I want to integrate an S-gauge train track with an off-road Hot Wheels downhill racetrack. I know a lot about designing and building homemade racetracks with realistic scenery, but virtually nothing about S-gauge trains. I could really use some guidance! And yes, I want to jump Hot Wheels over the train.
> 
> Here are a couple of pictures of my track. For perspective, you can check out my racing channel at Gravity Throttle Racing - YouTube.
> View attachment 579076
> ...


AUGUST 2022 UPDATE!

Since I first posted in March 2022, the support and advice from several forum members has been awesome! Thanks to everyone, especially Tom (AmFlyer). I've learned so much!

Today I have constructed a very ambitious homemade HotWheels track and successfully integrated it with an S gauge train layout. Tom, thank you for testing a 10' track section on a 7% down grade and reporting back your findings. It gave me the confidence to launch into my dream. 

Tonight I put power to my train for the first time. My Berkshire locomotive can pull 10 or more cars up the back straight that peaks at a 7% grade. It's just amazing! I wish I could share a video. Here are a few photos. The white is the HotWheels track made from Polywall and Coroplast. And yes, the cars jump over the train!


----------



## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Good work, you have made a lot of progress! The trackwork and roadbed look excellent. The Hot Wheels track looks complicated to build so that the curves and elevation changes work smoothly. It makes building the track look simple in comparison.


----------



## BigGRacing (Sep 25, 2020)

Love the concept! Well done !


----------



## ErnieBell (Mar 20, 2011)

AmFlyer said:


> The track on my layout is MTH flex. The rail is code 138. I can operate either scale or high rail equipment on it. A scale layout would use code 100 or smaller rail. The problem is no high rail equipment will run on it. There are plenty of scale car and engine suppliers but not Lionel. Most AM engines and cars can be ordered with scale wheels. SSA is a key supplier of S scale freight cars. River Raisin makes S scale engines but these are $2k and up. As you can see from the Lionel Y3 engine in my top picture the Lionel high rail (and the AM) is highly detailed.
> All the cars and trucks and people on my layout are 1/64 scale. Same for the structures.
> Here are a few more pictures.
> I know I have not answered all your questions. Please just ask us and we can provide replies based on many decades of experience in S gauge.
> ...


Is the PCC streetcar powered? Is it a Corgi?
ErnieB


----------



## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Ernie, the streetcar is a Corgi that was purchased 20 years ago from Pennsylvania Heritage Models. They purchased the streetcars from Corgi and installed a custom powered chassis and lighting. My only regret is that I only bought one. I do not think Pa Heritage is still in business. They did conversions/repaints of Gilbert items into PRR livery.
Here is a picture of the underside showing the S gauge chassis. The wheel flanges allow running on Code 100 scale track, it also ran ok on Gilbert track.


----------



## ErnieBell (Mar 20, 2011)

AmFlyer Tom, Thanks for response about your model PCC. I was pretty sure it was a Corgi. A friend gave me a Corgi PCC of the St Louis model last year. He put a pair of S-gauge freight trucks on it. Looks good sitting on a side track, BUT
I really want to power it. So After doing a lot of online searching , I found NorthWest Short Lines . They make power trucks for O, S, HO and the narrow gauges of these three. Problem is looks like its just a few dedicated guys building units per order.
Here is the link to the Home page:

https://nwsl.com

Site looks almost abandon but they are still in business. 
You have to dig a little to find out about the power trucks they make and other items for DIY building your own. The place to look is in the main Menu. - click on ‘Old Catalogue Pages’. That brings up a 16 page PDF.
On page 6 is info about their low profile *Stanton* power truck. It is DCC-ready, self-contained underfloor power unit. (last published price was $89.95 for power truck and $49.95 for non-powered. ) Here is direct link to the PDF:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0250/4032/2669/files/Power_Drive_2.pdf?263

I will order the pair when the “mainline” railroad president approves the requisition. 
ErnieB
BTW - I googled PA Heritage Models. Looks like they are still in business , but limited custom runs only. Currently offering two “0” models and one “S”.
Here is link to the page:

Limited Run Products

PS - Do you have a video of your St Louis PCC in action? I’m sure I am not the only one on MTF that would enjoy seeing it run.
Bedt regards 
ErnieB


----------



## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

I am surprised. I clicked on the Corgi collectibles link you provided and PHM appears to still offer the street cars along with the powered chassis and lights that I have. That would be the simplest way to go. The challenge I see with the NWSL trucks is you will need to custom build the chassis. My streetcar runs on AC conventional track power and it is smooth and slow speed operation.


----------



## ErnieBell (Mar 20, 2011)

AmFlyer said:


> I am surprised. I clicked on the Corgi collectibles link you provided and PHM appears to still offer the street cars along with the powered chassis and lights that I have. That would be the simplest way to go. The challenge I see with the NWSL trucks is you will need to custom build the chassis. My streetcar runs on AC conventional track power and it is smooth and slow speed operation.


Tom, The Home page says they are still producing the powered Corgi PCC cars. But when i clicked on the “Corgi Collections” menu nothing populates the page.

Did you get the “Corgi Collections” page to come up?


----------



## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

I have it on the screen right now. I hovered the pointer over the Corgi Collectables tab to get a drop down menu, then clicked on the PCC choice.


----------



## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Here is a screenshot of the top half of the page. It only works on a computer. To get the page on my iPad I had to enter the full address of the PCC page.


----------

