# Complete 332



## Old feller (Mar 30, 2012)

I purchased 332 in Oxnard CA. when visiting family. Got it home to Washington and it has been waiting for me to get a work space set up to work on a pile of AF post war rolling stock and accessories that I have been collecting since retiring. 
Reading the thread "AF 303 help needed" was very timely. My first project now that I am set up is a complete going through of this 332. So far I haven't found any missing, broken or wrong parts other than the armature had two spacers on the front and the brushes have grooves in the backside. I think these brushes were for the smoke unit in the tender.
Flyernut your advice in the 303 post was great I have already applied some of your suggestions.

A question I have is how best to clean the cast boiler w/o damaging the 332 lettering on the cab and on the boiler front? I was also wondering about cleaning the steam chest, pilot and front truck in a ultrasonic cleaner I have. I am concerned that the paint may come off.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks,

Should have taken the pictures before disassembly.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Nice engine....I wash all my loco/tender shells in a warm soapy water bath, and scrub with a toothbrush.A little mild dish soap works great. I would be careful of the ultra-sconic cleaner though. It MIGHT remove paint.. It would be ok for the chassis... Remove all the handrails and polish them with some 2000 grit wet/dry paper. It will shine them right up.. I love the AF engines with the metal handrails, they look so good when they're cleaned up and polished. That lettering is stamped, it would be ok to go over it with the soap/toothbrush, but lightly. I've never removed the lettering doing it. Those 2 spacers on the armature shaft are shims. Some engine will have 1 and some 2. If it has 2 then by all means use 2.And they should be on the long side of the armature, not the short side that goes into the brush bracket.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

You can also remove the steam generator and the whistle...Back to the shims, your picture shows the correct position... Remember, you MUST also quarter the linkages when you re-assemble.. They must go in the correct position or they will bind, jam, and ultimately bend, and they can be hard to find and pricey. After re-assembling the linkages, I always turn the armature by hand at least 4-5 revolutions both forward and backwards. The time to check them is now, before you add power....As for the brushes, my rule of thought is coil springs get shouldered brushes... I think the sit brushes are smaller in diameter than motor brushes.. I could be wrong... I have 2 Northerns, a K335 and a 336. I've taken both apart several times just because I was bored, and needed something to do...Really!!..Let me know if I can help further....


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

As for the clean-up on the steam chest, etc, I use the soapy water bath, but I use the hottest water my hands can stand.. That way the metal gets very warm, and will dry up any moisture. We used to clean up our M-16's like that after coming in from the field, HOT soapy water, a toothbrush, and then blow dry any moisture from the lower receiver, etc. There are a few guys that use a ultra-sconic cleaner here, but I know nothing about the solvents/cleaners to offer you any good advice. My local hobby shop uses one to clean the chassis but I'm not sure about the rest of the workings.


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## llskis (Apr 11, 2013)

Oldfeller: Nice find. It looks to be a DC unit.(Hard to tell detail from picture) It looks to have a Magnet Cover. Confirm (DC) by looking at the Jack Panel. (Two holes will confirm DC) Book shows it will have different brushes then the AC unit but believe the AC will work. Larry
P.S. If DC do not apply AC as this will fry the unit.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

That is a DC version of the 332. The field pictured is an AlNiCo DC motor field. This engine can only be operated on DC.


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## Old feller (Mar 30, 2012)

Thanks for all the input, I hope to start assembling it this weekend, (rain is forcast).
It seems I read somewhere that the piston on the smoke unit should not be lubricated.
Thoughts on that and my plan below much appreciated.

I now have 3 locos, 2 332's and a 342 that are all DC. My plan is to be able to switch the whole layout to either AC or DC. and run the DC locos alone. I have several of the big grey
rectifiers that I think were used with these types of engines.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

I hope all goes well and you have some nice, operating engines. The big grey rectifiers are selenium disc rectifiers.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

oldfeller said:


> Thanks for all the input, I hope to start assembling it this weekend, (rain is forcast).
> It seems I read somewhere that the piston on the smoke unit should not be lubricated.
> Thoughts on that and my plan below much appreciated.
> 
> ...


It's recommended that a slight coating of vaseline should be applied to the inside of the piston chamber to help seal it. I do it with all of my steamers.


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

I was going to say the same thing...that is a DC motor. So do not apply regular AC power from any AF tranny unless you use a rectifier. Otherwise it looks to be in great shape. Nice piece to have in the collection.


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