# coupling and uncoupling question...



## kimber (Aug 2, 2013)

We are new to this, so go easy on me...

We want to be able to pull up to a switch, uncouple some cars, pull the train forward,
back onto a siding, uncouple some cars, pull off the siding, backup and couple to the
cars on the main track and pull away. Then go back later and get the cars off the
siding.

See picture, what do we need?? It looks like there are magnets for under the track, but
how do they work? We can wind some electric magnets to go under the tracks.


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## jjb727 (Apr 13, 2012)

kimber said:


> We are new to this, so go easy on me...
> 
> We want to be able to pull up to a switch, uncouple some cars, pull the train forward,
> back onto a siding, uncouple some cars, pull off the siding, backup and couple to the
> ...


I was told that magnets weren't very reliable. A lot of people told me to move to the coupler pick, but I can't figure out how to use that thing either. I think we both need help lol


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

What type of couplers are you using? 

If you are using knuckle couplers, Kadee makes kits for doing what you want. I have used the magnets but i prefer to use long Bamboo Shish Kabob Skewers. Just put them in between the couplers and then rotate skewer counter clock wise.


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## niehausiiw (May 23, 2012)

I just put the magnets, (4 of them) on my layout and I have not had a problem with them. I am going to add at least 2 possible 3 more if I decide to add another switch. I just purchased the magnets from my LHS, 1 is a Bachmann, the other 3 are Micro Train I think.
Installing the magnets added a whole new level of enjoyment to running my layout.


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## irishthump (Jul 1, 2013)

I use Kadees and a combination of the between track and under track magnets and they work really well.
Careful setup with the couplers is the most important thing.


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## cv_acr (Oct 28, 2011)

I prefer using the skewers as you're not constrained to uncoupling at specific places all the time. Fixed magnets can also cause unintended uncouplings if you stop over them.


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## kimber (Aug 2, 2013)

Can someone tell me how they work?? Is it just a magnet under the track and if
you are moving it does nothing but go slow and it unhooks? We are thinking some
thing you can turn on and off.


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## cv_acr (Oct 28, 2011)

Sure thing.

The magnetically operated knuckle couplers have a metal "trip pin" that hangs down below the coupler head, that sorta kinda not really looks like an air hose below the coupler.

When you stop a train with a pair of couplers directly over a magnet on the tracks, and push in the slack (slightly push back on the cars to relieve the tension in the couplers; if it's stretched tight they can't uncouple) the magnetic field forces the trip pins away from each other, shifting the couplers and uncoupling them.

You can then pull away, leaving the uncoupled car(s) behind.

The other neat feature of this is that while over the magnet, the coupler heads remain off-centre. Once uncoupled, if you push back onto the uncoupled cars, when the couplers contact each other over the magnet, they're not aligned so the don't couple, and you can actually push the uncoupled a distance to spot it.

This is what is referred to as the "delayed uncoupling" feature. This allows you to serve several tracks with a single uncoupling magnet.

You just need to be careful where you stop when pushing that car to rest; if you stop with another pair of couplers over the magnet, they'll uncouple and repeat the above process.


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## kimber (Aug 2, 2013)

Thanks, we are going to do some experimenting with electric magnets. May come
up with a whole new system. 

We have three places on our layout we want this feature. 

This is sort of what it will look like, Two trains going opisite directions. Two sidings
for car storage and one place for the trains to pass.


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## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*Kadee Couplers,&Magnets*



kimber said:


> Can someone tell me how they work?? Is it just a magnet under the track and if you are moving it does nothing but go slow and it unhooks? We are thinking something you can turn on and off.


:smilie_daumenpos:
Please, check out a* u-tube,* toutorial dealing with magnets, couple and uncoupleing with kadee couplers using magnets, by a gentleman, who goes by the name of "1chubak 007" or Chuck Baker. He has alot of good tips, and tuitorials for model railroading on *U-tube.* He even shows installation methods! Regards, tr1. And, Goodluck p.s. check out the toutorials on *u-tube.*


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Kimber I was just going to suggest the same thing. Youtube has a ton of videos on how to do just about everything on a model railroad. One guy I have been interested in watching is Big Al Mayo with the Monster Railroad layout. Al is good at scenery and weathering trains along with a lot of other things. Just type in the subject your interested in and you'll find a video for it. In this case type in "Magnetic uncoupling" and look at a few vids to find what you want. 
Don't worry about us going easy on you. There is no question that you can ask that hasn't been asked on here before. We all had to learn the basics at one time or another but back then there wasn't an internet to look at. Ask any question you want and somebody here will have an answer for you. Pete

Go here Kimber. Watch closly and you can see the couplers working over the magnet. 
http://youtu.be/fWr6WOlnVGk


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## cv_acr (Oct 28, 2011)

Wow, those magnets in that video are a little TOO strong! They completely bypass each other when over the magnet, so they crash into the body of the next car.

With a normal magnet, if you think of the couple like a hand, with the moving knuckle part as the fingers, the "thumb" of the coupler should contact the "palm" of the other allowing you to push with the coupler.

If you haven't done fine detailing like adding air hoses, it shouldn't cause any damage, but you're supposed to be able to push with the couplers against each other, not completely bypassed and contacting the body.

Otherwise, that video shows the concept very nicely, just the coupler deflection is a little exaggerated due to the super-strong magnet.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

kimber said:


> Thanks, we are going to do some experimenting with electric magnets. May come
> up with a whole new system.
> 
> We have three places on our layout we want this feature.
> ...


Kimber

The best location for your uncoupling magnets is going to be ON A STRAIGHT
section just IN the siding. The uncouplers do not work well if there is
any track curvature.

Would suggest Google for the new high powered magnets. Use them
mounted on a steel plate under your track. The plate 'amplifies' the
magnetic force for more positive uncoupling.

The adjustment of your couplers and how well they freely swing 
from side to side does affect how positively they uncouple. I squirt
mine with a powdered lubricant like graphite.

But, as several have said, you're going to need to learn how to
use the 'hand of God' system of uncoupling...some cars just won't
play nice. 

Don


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## kimber (Aug 2, 2013)

Thanks again, we are looking into inventing something better. We have the technology,
just need to figure out how to use it.

We have a electric magnet strong enough to activate the couplers and fit under
the track, the problem is the train can't pull away from the magnet without derailing
the cars.


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## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

i seem to remember a long time ago,, kadee had a system like your talking about. an electric mag system.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Kadee still has the under table electromagnet uncoupler. You must
make a big hole in the table to install it. I have
one installed but never did wire it so can't comment on it's
effectiveness. It would be right for a mainline since it only
uncouples when you push a button.

I do like the super magnets but they shouldn't be used in mainlines since
they will uncouple cars when you don't want that.

Don


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## irishthump (Jul 1, 2013)

cv_acr said:


> Wow, those magnets in that video are a little TOO strong! They completely bypass each other when over the magnet, so they crash into the body of the next car.


I have experimented with this myself and a better method (which I have to say I didn't come up with myself!) Was to use 2 rows of these magnets in place of 2 sleepers on the length of track. It's important that you get them at the same height as the sleepers as this seems to lessen the pull of the magnets on the trip pins and stops them from opening too far and allows delayed uncoupling.

This method works well for main lines as positioning over the magnets has to be very precise to allow uncoupling to happen. Unwanted uncoupling is practically eliminated.
You can also use more than 2 rows of magnets to increase the uncoupling area if you want to use this method in a freight yard.

On the subject of unwanted uncoupling: I use the large under track magnets on my main line and I WAS experiencing a lot of unintentional coupling. But I find the biggest problem here is rolling stock being too free-running. I'm only just getting into American HO and I still run a large amount of UK/Irish outline OO stock which I fitted out with Kadees. Since Kadees are not the norm for OO, none of our stock comes fitted with non-magnetic wheelsets and this combined with free-running stock causes no end of uncoupling issues


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## kimber (Aug 2, 2013)

Want to really say a BIG THANKS to all that replied and all the info.

We have ordered a bunch of the uncoupler things, three of the electric
ones for the main line and the others for the sidings.


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