# Sad day



## Tazzmann (Apr 17, 2011)

Hello all,

My name in Mike and recently my son and I decided to set up a model train set on a 4x8 layout. We had an engine and some rolling stock for about 7 years, but it sat up in our attic for about 6 years.

Anyway, we built the bench and layed out our track on top of it to just see if the engine was still working. After cleaning the wheels and contacts on the train, we finally got it to run, if sluggishly. I had a track cleaning car, so we hooked it up and it ran adequately. The engine is a BNSF engine, though there is no model or manufacturer name on it. Since I bought it new years ago, if I once knew the manufacturer, I don't any more.

So, to the sad news... Today, I decided to pull the panels off the bottom of the trucks to make sure the gears were clean, which they weren't. After getting them all cleaned up, I decided to try the train out on the track. I was running the train at about 50 on the controller and the train wasn't moving all that fast, but it derailed while going around the corner on the far side of the table. It hit the concrete floor backwards, from what I can tell from the damage. The engine other than that appears fine, but doesn't respond as well when starting off. I have to turn the control up to 50 before it will even start to move. Any suggestions on what to do?

Thanks in advance,

Mike


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Gravity: 1
Tazzmann: 0

Bummer ... sorry to hear the news. Game's not over though ...

With 4x8, I assume you're talking HO? It's a good sign that you have some life in the motor, though it sounds like something causing undue friction.

Post some details pics, maybe???

TJ


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## Tazzmann (Apr 17, 2011)

Thanks tj, after doing a little research, I think it is a Bachmann PD40 deisel engine. I don't have a way to post pics at the moment and not much really to show. There was some platic that broke on the bottom right of the train as looking at it from the back. The motor still turns and if I crank it up past 50 it seems to run just fine. I just don't think I should have to crank it up that high to get it to start going. 

And yes, it is HO. 

Also, does the code on the tracks tell you what the rail height is? I had to buy a couple of new pieces and they were code 100. After looking at them connected to the existing track, the rails are slightly higher on the new track.

Thanks,
Mike


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Track code is track rail height in decimal inches ... Code 100 = 0.100", Code 83 = 0.083", etc.


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## Tazzmann (Apr 17, 2011)

Ok, then that would explain it. I guess my original track must be code 83 then while the new stuff is code 100 which would be taller.


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## Tazzmann (Apr 17, 2011)

Can you get individual parts for these trains, like a new body?


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Tassman,
I sorry to say that bachmann does not have the best of reputations for being good runners. It might be cheaper and better if you just buy a new Engine and replace it. You probably could find a body on Ebay and probably a complete engine for cheap.


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## Tazzmann (Apr 17, 2011)

So I gathered. Lol. So what is a recommendation for a cheaper DCC engine?


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## gc53dfgc (Apr 13, 2010)

A Bachmann SD40-2 DCC equipped 40 dollars new. Very good runners. Are about the same as the Athearn's but as with all DCC engines the more you tweak the CV values the better or worse it can run.

Get us some pictures. I could probably manage to get the engine running nice and smooth and depending on the body damage it could be fixable.


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## Tazzmann (Apr 17, 2011)

Ok, to be honest, I don't know anything about DCC growing up as I did on DC only trains. So I have no idea what you are talking about when you say CV values. Lol. 

Anyway, I will try and get some photos tomorrow. I am not sure it is going to help as far as the engine goes since there was no visible damage to it, but the body has some damage. The body also had one of the side plastic pieces that covers the wheels broken off at the stud, but that has been fixed. Also, I am only PARTLY sure it is a Bachmann since there is no manufacturer listed on it anywhere.

Thanks,
Mike


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## lears2005 (Feb 26, 2010)

You may not be able to see the damage unless you take it a part and you know what you are looking for. that is why the guys are asking for some pic. was it dcc or dc


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## Tazzmann (Apr 17, 2011)

Oh. Ok. I will need to know how to take it apart. And it was DC. I only had the body off and it looked fine.


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## gc53dfgc (Apr 13, 2010)

woah, let's get some pictures before we take anything apart anyfurther to make sure we don't screw anything up.


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## Tazzmann (Apr 17, 2011)

Ok, well, I wasn't going to attempt that until told to. I ain't cwazy!  Anyway, I will get some pictures done up tomorrow.

Thanks for all the help so far!

Mike


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## lears2005 (Feb 26, 2010)

Ya please do not take anything apart untill you get a few people to look at it.


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

Tazzmann said:


> Also, does the code on the tracks tell you what the rail height is? I had to buy a couple of new pieces and they were code 100. After looking at them connected to the existing track, the rails are slightly higher on the new track. The motor still turns and if I crank it up past 50 it seems to run just fine. I just don't think I should have to crank it up that high to get it to start going.
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike


Mike, you can make both the code 83 and the code 100 track sections flush on the top with each other by connecting them together with what is called transition railjoiners. These are special railjoiners made just for this purpose. Here's a linc including a picture of what they look like. 

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/product-p/atl-551.htm

You can buy these at this linc site or anywhere that sells model trains either online or at a local hobby shop. About you having to turn your transformer up to 50 to get your engine started; This may or may not be the result of the fall. I say this this because I have a Proto GP20 that requires the dial to be turned way up before it actually starts. This is just how some engines are with some transformers. 

At any rate, I agree with everyone else here. Let someone else look at it. If you don't know anyone that knows model trains, then take it to a hobby shop. They usually have someone that knows model trains inside and out. The best of luck to you.

John


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## Tazzmann (Apr 17, 2011)

Thanks guys for all the replys. Seems like a good group to hang out with on here. So, one more question before bed. What makes those transition rail joiners work? I looked at the pictures on the site, but they look like regular joiners to me. Just curious. I like to learn as much about the hobby as I can.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

The rail joiners are a little higher on one side to make up for the rail height difference.
As far as your engine goes if you can't fix it yourself you could take it to a shop or send it to someone like me.
You can also convert DC locomotives to DCC rather easily and cheaply!:thumbsup:


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## Tazzmann (Apr 17, 2011)

What do you charge to take a look at it?


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

Tazzmann said:


> What makes those transition rail joiners work? I looked at the pictures on the site, but they look like regular joiners to me. Just curious. I like to learn as much about the hobby as I can.


One half of the joiner is off-set from the other, raising the code 83 section of track to match the top of the code 100 section, thus allowing the two different size codes of track to come together flush. Though you can't really tell this by looking at the phtograph, if you were to hold one and really look at it, you could then see the difference. 

John


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## Zeus-cat (Feb 5, 2011)

Sad day for me too. I took my car in for an oil change and my mechanic says it is rusting out pretty badly. He said the frame is compromised and he recommended I replace the car as a crash would likely cause the frame to collapse. 

Replace it? My God, its ONLY 17 years old!!! Still gets 38 mpg though!


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

Z-cat,
That's almost as bad as someone telling you your dog only had 2 months to live ........
But, loving your car is one thing, personal safety is quite another 
Go get a 2nd and 3rd opinion :laugh::laugh:
Bob


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