# AF switches



## AFnew2 (Aug 28, 2016)

Changed my layout around to make more grandchild friendly and put sidings on both edges of layout so accessories are easier to reach for small children and less derailments. 6 ft wide.
I added two manual switches and had a lot of trouble with reverse unit dropping out and occasional derail. Took switches apart and cleaned contacts, and track between side rails. Got better but still reverse unit still drops out after about a dozen time around loop.
Changed one switch to auto after and still have intermittent drop into neutral. Using all AF track and switches with rubber road bed. the problem is always on the switch. Bigger engines (336) ran better than 302. Any suggestions?


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

The reverse unit 'dropping out' would indicate loss
of power. Does the headlight blink at the point
where the unit 'drops'? If so, there is a loss of
continuity from track to 'innards'. Does this happen
at the same place each time? If so, what is there?
Have you used multimeter to check the voltage on
the rails at any 'drop out' spot?

Have you cleaned the track and loco wheels?

Don


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

First make sure the track and all the wheels are clean, even the plastic ones. Second, make sure all the tender pickup wheels are correctly gauged. Do this using a dime. It should just pass between the backs of the wheels with no rubbing. Third check the sideframes on the 336 to make sure they do not rub on the rails. High mileage Northerns and Hudsons can have axle wear in the truck sideframe holes that allow the sideframe to short as it goes through a turnout. Make sure the bronze contacts are clean and make good contact with the tender axles. Fourth, the 302 can have slightly twisted sheet metal trucks that cause one pickup wheel to lose contact with the rail while the second wheel is on the insulated frog. Make sure the trucks are level and square and that the bronze pickups are in firm contact with the axles.
All the above assumes the internals of the turnouts are completely clean and corrosion and oxidation free. As well as the clips holding the rails to the bakelite base are tight. Finally assure there is good continuity across all six track pins.


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## AFnew2 (Aug 28, 2016)

*switches*

Voltage checked ok between track sections
Noticed small arch marks on switch track so I cleaned it off
Cleaned wheels on train before I ran. will do again.
Cleaned track with denatured alcohol and scotch brite pad.
As stated previous I took switches apart and cleaned contacts.
Let me clean everything a 2nd time and see how it goes.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

The arc burns are caused by poor contact between the pickup wheel and the rail at those points. It can be caused by dirt, oxidation or poor wheel contact due to out of gauge wheels, twisted truck frames, inadequate or unequal tension on the axles by the bronze axle contacts. Also excessive sideframe wear on tenders with die cast pickups. As I discussed above, they all need to be verified good.
When the turnouts were apart did you verify the pointed plunger that holds the points in place has adequate spring tension and is free to move in and out?


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

AmFlyer said:


> The arc burns are caused by poor contact between the pickup wheel and the rail at those points. It can be caused by dirt, oxidation or poor wheel contact due to out of gauge wheels, twisted truck frames, inadequate or unequal tension on the axles by the bronze axle contacts. Also excessive sideframe wear on tenders with die cast pickups. As I discussed above, they all need to be verified good.
> When the turnouts were apart did you verify the pointed plunger that holds the points in place has adequate spring tension and is free to move in and out?


You beat me to it Tom. I was going to say the same thing. I was also going to ask in what direction does the tender loose electrical contact when going through the switch? The frog has to have tension on it or it will move while the train goes through it, loosing contact...Check the frog buddy....


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## AFnew2 (Aug 28, 2016)

*Switches*

Ok.. This is what I found after cleaning switches and wheels.
One switch did have movement from weak spring tension so I swapped it out. I have back to back switches. I also found that the link coupler between the engine and 1st car would arc while passing over the 2nd switch. This did not happen with KC engines and cars.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Wow, I never saw a link coupler arc going over a turnout. The metal weights are insulated from the car, wheels, and each other by the plastic coupler.


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## AFnew2 (Aug 28, 2016)

I did find a partially loose wheel insulator on the 302


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