# track power loss



## ironman21 (Mar 5, 2013)

I am running Lionel tubular track with a 250 watt z transformer. There is one section of my layout where the trains lose power and either stall or they run very slow but once they reach a certain point the speed up and run fine until they reach the portion of the track. I do not have power blocks and the run is about 50 feet with no switches just an outside loop. The spot where the slowdown starts is about 8 feet from the lock on, I ran another lockon to the dead spot from the transformer taps and thought that would help, and it did not. I changed the track sections and made sure the fit was tight sill a dead spot. The dead spot is on a curve section with o54 radius, am I missing something?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

On curves it's normal for them to slow down unless they have cruise control. Are there any grades involved? You say you swapped out the track that was in the problem area?


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## TrainLarry (Jan 15, 2012)

If you have a lighted car, slowly roll the car by hand over the affected area. When the light dims, that is the affected track. Repair or replace as necessary. A layout as large as yours should have multiple lockons to start with. Never trust just the track connections to distribute power. If the light does not dim, then you may have a slight grade that may not be noticeable by eye, but the trains will find it. I have one on my layout.

Larry


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## Robes (Jan 5, 2011)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> On curves it's normal for them to slow down unless they have cruise control. Are there any grades involved? You say you swapped out the track that was in the problem area?


My Christmas layout does the same thing and I have two lock-ons. I did the same thing,... cleaned and replaced some track and that helped. Now I am good with the slight slow down because it picks up a wee bit of speed on the straights and might jump the track in not for the slowdown at the curves. It has two spots where is slows around the curve and one is right next to one of the Lock-ons. The trick on using a lighted car though,....that is a nifty idea :smilie_daumenpos:


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## Lynn D Bennett (Jul 27, 2013)

ironman21:

I ran a XMAS MTH train with a single loop of track with one lock on. The train's passenger cars are lighted but by a single small truck for each car. I did not run it continuously but only about three times over the last two weeks before XMAS and then for hours each time. I noted that each time in the first 1/2 hour or so the lights flickered on the cars like a bad connection to the track. But after the initial flickering it stopped flickering and the light were steady. I think it was dirt on the track from the down time between runnings and the wheels had to push it off the track. I have seen the same thing on my HO layout when there have been long times between running it…. just running it made the hesitations go away eventually.

Your track might be dirty and needs cleaning. The wheels and rollers on the engine may also need cleaning. The oil from the mechanism often plates out on the track and needs to be removed. A solvent like lacquer thinner (will dissolve plastic and paint) or contact cleaner on a cloth is a good cleaning tool. Some people like alcohol, the type used for cleaning not the kind you use on your body.

LDBennett


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## ironman21 (Mar 5, 2013)

I have replaced the entire curved section with different track, good and clean and nice and tight but the problem still exists. It is not as noticeable with a modern engine but I run mostly prewar with some post war engines all act in the same way. I have a Lionel 260e with four 710 passenger cars and a 712 observation on it now and around the 3 other corners it runs great, now if I bump up the voltage it will do just fine however it runs too fast the rest of the way. I measure 12.8 volts at the lock-on and the same at the problem corner, I added another lock-on to that curve but it made no difference. There is no grade (I put a level on it) and once the engine reaches the connection between the curve and straight it picks up speed again. I tried other engines an all act the same way except for the modern engines which again is not as noticeable. I have 4 different lines running off of two 250watt z transformers all have similar problems at different sections of the layout. I put a meter on the track at different intervals and the current is constant.


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## ironman21 (Mar 5, 2013)

I clean the track on a regular basis so I know that is good to go and the pick-up and wheels are clean< I maintain them all the time so that shoulkd be good as well. I know these prewar engines are tempermental but I should be able to maintain a slow speed regardless.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Anything else going on by that curve? Switches, accessories, etc, connected by, or running off of or close to these track sections? In other words is anything else drawing power when the train hits the curve?


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## ironman21 (Mar 5, 2013)

no all the accessories are powered by 2 more 250 watt z transformers. I bought a few MTH power terminals, I think im going to start a long put off task and do the power blocks, I heard they should be every 6 feet is that correct?


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## ironman21 (Mar 5, 2013)

Thanks to all who posted, you've been a great help, I'll let you know how the project turns out.


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

Ironman

FWIW, I have a 40' loop of 031 level track. All sections are soldered together.

My trains slow in one curve which is 2' from where my power lines are soldered to the rails.

I've tried everything under the sun and can not determine why they slow.


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## ironman21 (Mar 5, 2013)

Frustrating isn't it! mine slow down directly over a second lock-on but fly over the main.


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## BWA (Jun 16, 2012)

Try reversing the wires on the second lockon. Might be an AC phasing thing.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Reversing the wiring on the lockon coming from the same transformer will result in a dead short across the transformer! Not a good idea.


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

Finding a voltage drop.

Many do not understand why they cannot simply run their voltmeter around a circuit to find a voltage drop.

The reason is easy: you must have current flow to find the drop. This means you have to run your train...right? Well it would be kind of difficult to locate a definite voltage drop with a moving target. 

The solution is to use a 'dummy load'. An 1156 bulb (auto store) connected around the track at various locations will supply about a 2 amp load, well within the 10 amp limit of most digital voltmeters.

Wire your voltmeter (set on AC amps) in series with your track. Power up to about 12 v. connect your 'dummy load' in various positions around the track to isolate the source of high resistance that is causing your voltage drop. Current displayed on your meter will decrease at the bad connections.

When you find the drop you can further isolate it by jumping first the outside rail then the center rail back to source and noting the change, if any, on the meter.


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## Lynn D Bennett (Jul 27, 2013)

Is there a binding action of the wheels of the engine negotiating the curve? Some of the multi-wheeled steam engines have flanges on all wheels such that they bind in curves.

LDBennett


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## namvet67 (Dec 7, 2013)

Throw those lock-ons away. Use 16 ga braided wire and a 100 watt solderin iron and solder wires underneath the rails every 6'. Get a nice bright connection. I have over 100' of 042 and 054 track and have no problems. I Run 2343's & Geeps pulling 25/30 cars with no problems. JMHO Works for me


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## Mk10 (Jan 1, 2014)

I found soldering extra feeds to the track works well. That way I know lockons aren't being affected by any slight deflection or change in the tabs that contact the rails as trains roll over those sections.


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