# Rolling stock derailing



## 2tall (Nov 18, 2011)

Hi Guys
I have noticed my lighter or maybe better put cheaper cars tend to derail easier than heavy ones, is it the wheels? or should I try to make them heaver with some kind of ballast.
Thanks for the help, 2tall


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Make them heavier. Pennies are the cheapest weights you can get.

Also, check the gauge of the wheels, too wide or narrow will cause issues as well. 

Metal wheels roll better than plastic ones.


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## JohnAP (May 4, 2011)

What Scott said. Also check the truck pins. Sometimes if they are reay loose, the cars have a tendancy to wobble (they are top heavy for the most part). Also check your couplers for free movement and degree of swing. Are the cars in question more prone to derailing on curves or in turnouts?


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

If the trucks have screws - I always tighten (1) truck where it only rotates and the other truck where it is allowed to wobble just a little bit.


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## [email protected] (Jan 30, 2012)

Metal wheels will help as well.


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## 2tall (Nov 18, 2011)

*Steel wheels*

Hi Guys
I was thinking that I would change wheels like you mentioned, then looked in my Bachmann Cat. There are a couple of different sizes for HO stuff, how do I know what to order?
Thanks for the help, 2tall


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## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

Though there are exceptions, generally 33" are used for frieght, 36" are used for passenger cars and large modern hoppers and 28" are used for Hi-cubes and auto-racks...


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## 2tall (Nov 18, 2011)

*cars derailing*

Hi guys 
I have noticed that some of my rolling stock does not like the Bachman #5 turn outs, that is where I have most of my derailing but with the same cars, I have added weights to those cars and it helped some. other engines and cars never have a problem with the turn outs. Any body else having this problem with the # 5 turn out?
2tall


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

also check the wheel spacing on the cars that are derailing.


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## jjb727 (Apr 13, 2012)

Southern said:


> also check the wheel spacing on the cars that are derailing.


My life-like rolling stock does tend to derail a few times, even after I've checked that the track is layed nice and smooth. Does anyone know what kind of metal wheels i should put on them? Thanks!


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## broox (Apr 13, 2012)

sstlaure said:


> If the trucks have screws - I always tighten (1) truck where it only rotates and the other truck where it is allowed to wobble just a little bit.


I'll check this out, I have a feeling that my trucks are too cheap to have screws 



jjb727 said:


> My life-like rolling stock does tend to derail a few times, even after I've checked that the track is layed nice and smooth. Does anyone know what kind of metal wheels i should put on them? Thanks!


I'm in the same boat, I hope the upgrade won't be too costly!


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I don't know which metal wheels are the best. I think that is an argument that could
go on forever. Right now I have a box of intermountain wheels. Next time it might be
proto or maybe kadees. Price will determine. My current wheels were 100 for $60.00
shipped. So 60 cents per axle, it takes 4 axles per car, so it cost me $2.40 per car to
put metal wheels on. So far I think it is worth it. They don't seem to pick up as much dirt as the plastic ones. They roll better and I like the sound they make as they roll by.


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

My opinion on upgrading older hook/horn cars to Kadees and metal wheels is this:

Unless it is something that has sentimental value, you may just be better off buying newer/nicer cars on clearance somewhere like Walther's or trainworldonline (I've bought nice, knuckle coupler cars with metal wheel-sets brand new or slightly used for anywhere $8-13 each) You're looking at about $4.00 in wheelsets for 4 axles, and about $2.00 in couplers for Kadees, so conversion is about $6/car. (rough numbers - you can get much better prices buying in bulk)

Check out the Bargain Barn...I find the best deals are the multipack cars.
http://www.walthers.com/exec/bargain?category=Freight&scale=H

I do believe that the improved operation of the nicer cars really adds to the enjoyment (not constantly re-railing cars with the giant flesh colored claw in the sky)

I've had great luck with Intermountain 

http://www.walthers.com/exec/search...rds=restrict&instock=Q&split=30&Submit=Search

or Walthers Proto wheelsets

http://www.walthers.com/exec/search...rds=restrict&instock=Q&split=30&Submit=Search


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

No doubt it is nice to open a box and take a RTR car out and its got metal wheels and knuckle couplers and put it on the track. If I were just starting out that would be the only way to go. I have a bunch of athearn BB cars I got back when they were cheap.
Maybe 200 of them. Cheaper for me to upgrade them. At what BB cars sell for now, I
would not do it. Recently I bought a bunch of bachmann silver series cars with metal wheels and knuckle couplers in the 5 to 10 dollar range and those are my best rolling cars. Something about them though, just not as nice bodies as my others or the graphics. Sometimes you get what you pay for.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I think weighting the cars and checking the spacing between the wheels should help reduce your derails a bunch.


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## Rangerover (Feb 8, 2012)

The only other recommendation I have is this, coupler height using a coupler height gage and also the trip pin wire if it's to low it will catch on the frogs and closeure rails. So many variables to consider why a car derails, good info above from other posters with metal wheels, weight, couplers (Kadee is the best in my opinion), screw tightness leaving one sort of wobble, it's all good! Jim


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