# A couple of coupler questions



## whurd (Mar 17, 2011)

First off let me say this... You guys rock!!!!! I have learned so much from you wise gents that I gotta say thanks!
So I have learned about fattening up my stock, improving the rolling by adding steel wheels, a little about the track controllers, and a little about track. 
Now I want to learn about couplers. 
I know there is Horn and hook type. Plastic and magnetic. And of course different sizes.
So I know for the best performance the Kadee coupler is the preffered one. But when I look at them I get confused on the #'s they have.
#5
#148
#13
#6
#8
and the list goes on!!!!   
So what do I get? I understand there is some measurement tool or something? I saw some link somewhere, but I couldn't find it. 


So far the horn type have worked well (just a pain in the *** to uncouple) and the plastic knock off Kadee type brand I got long ago dont. They uncouple when ever they want to. :stroke:


So teach the young grasshopper oh wisemen!


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Start off right and get a starter setup like this one HERE. 
That gives you all the necessary tools and gages to set them up right along with some samples.
#5's and #148 are the same dimensions #148 just incorporate the spring into the coupler called a whisker spring, easier assembly. These 2 numbers are the most common from HERE or HERE you can figure out if you need another length or depth or height. There is no real hard fast rule about which coupler you will need but 99% of the time #5 or#148 will do the job.
If your running Talgo trucks, Older tyco and bachmann among others used them. There are adapters for these HERE.
Once you do a few they get a lot easier to do.


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

I like the whisker springs personally. The only time I've found the #148 didn't work for me was on engines that I had installed snowplows. I needed couplers of the same height but with a longer neck on them (to clear the plows.) I've converted almost all of my stock to Kadee's (But the kids cars still have hook/horn - I've got a massive pile of spares for when they break them trying to uncouple.)

Get some small needle nose pliers and some jewelers screw drivers. It will make handling these parts a ton easier. Also, I use a "nose picker" (90 degree bent awl) for reinstalling the knuckle springs. Most of the kadee packs I've bought have come with extra springs - they can pop off and you'll never find them once they fly away.


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

Whurd,
All of the above advice is spot on :thumbsup: I've only been in this hobby about three months and have fairly well mastered switching couplers. Scott is exactly right when he says those few tools he suggests make the job easier.
One other tip you may try is to use a WHITE cotton towel under your work.
That way, if the little bugger falls off it's much easier to spot and it won't bounce away like it would off a hard surface. I learned the hard way by spending a ton of time on my hands and knees looking for teenie screws and parts :thumbsdown:
Have fun,
Bob


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## whurd (Mar 17, 2011)

> Get some small needle nose pliers and some jewelers screw drivers. It will make handling these parts a ton easier. Also, I use a "nose picker" (90 degree bent awl) for reinstalling the knuckle springs.


Ok, allow me to preface this with saying, I'm an avid HO scale slot car collector. With over 150 slots, I have all of these tools and some. Such as but not limited to....
Dremel, 2" squeeze clamps, variable watt soldiering irons, mini side cutters, and larger cutters, micro files, needle fine non-magnetic tweezers, and of course the ultimate problem solver... 32oz Ball Peen hammer... Often used to gently persuade things into submission. :laugh:



> One other tip you may try is to use a WHITE cotton towel under your work.


I use the blue mechanics towels you can get in the auto part stores and walmart. They are more durable than the plain old paper towels and the suck up spills better. Plus their a pretty color of blue! 



> If your running Talgo trucks, Older tyco and bachmann among others used them. There are adapters for these HERE.


Why do I need these adaptors? Yes most of my rolling stock is Bac and tyco stuff. I just started getting the steel wheels ordered up, and found a good rescource on-line better priced than Ebay. Please explain oh wise one!


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## tooter (Feb 26, 2010)

sstlaure said:


> I like the whisker springs personally. The only time I've found the #148 didn't work for me was on engines that I had installed snowplows.


+1 on the #148's... :thumbsup:

The springs self center way better than the #5's.

Greg


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## nsr_civic (Jun 21, 2010)

whurd. using the talgo truck adapters as refrenced by nimt. you can add knuckle couplers to the older bachmann and tyco rolling stock that have truck mounted couplers. newer cars have body mounts that are more stable.


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## whurd (Mar 17, 2011)

nsr_civic said:


> whurd. using the talgo truck adapters as refrenced by nimt. you can add knuckle couplers to the older bachmann and tyco rolling stock that have truck mounted couplers. newer cars have body mounts that are more stable.


So I gotta swap the trucks too??????


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## nsr_civic (Jun 21, 2010)

not quite. the adapters. here
are to put the new style couplers on your existing trucks. you can choose to body mount if you want to but it takes more time and effort.


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

If you want to get rid of the truck mounted couplers - you buy Kadees with the coupler box and glue the coupler box to the underside of the end of the car, you just need to make sure the coupler height is correct. I recommend buying Kadees coupler gauge and checking all the cars - it will prevent headaches down the road. Kadee also makes low, regular and high mount coupler heads to provide some up/down adjustment, or you can get small paper washers that will provide additional up/down adjustment to the coupler height.

Basically you can convert anything to Kadee couplers if you really want to. They've got an incredible selection of coupler types, sizes and lengths.


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## whurd (Mar 17, 2011)

Ok, so what do these things do exactly? Anyone got a photo refrence or something?


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

whurd said:


> Ok, so what do these things do exactly? Anyone got a photo refrence or something?


Which things?


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Pictures are worth a thousand words!









































































Hope this helps you understand better!


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## whurd (Mar 17, 2011)

AHHHHH I see!!!!!


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## whurd (Mar 17, 2011)

OK.. then next question....
What if my current coupler mount has a screw in mounting? All I need then are the couplers?
I know newbie and a thousnd questions... I gotta sound worse than a 4 year old asking WHY?
Why?
why?
LOL!!! :laugh:


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Does your trucks look like this, or is it screwed to the body?


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## whurd (Mar 17, 2011)

BINGO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yeap that them alright!
At least a few of them are.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

EWWWWW.. I am so sorry about your bad luck....:laugh::laugh::laugh:
Easy #148 and either you make the shim to make the shaft size larger or you just cut off the edges of the gear box and screw it back down done.


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## nsr_civic (Jun 21, 2010)

i would take the time to body mount them it would make for much more reliable rolling stock..


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

DUHHHH to ME!!! Yep that's what I would do too! A lot wiser choice!:thumbsup:
Body mounting is so much better when it comes to those old trucks, BTW you just cut off the old truck when you body mount!


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## whurd (Mar 17, 2011)

Looking at the frame on my tanker cars... One question comes to mind about body mounting....
HOW?
There's no frame to mount to!!!!!!
See pics...

















As you can see already added the metal wheels, and have been playing with weight... But from what I see all I can do is add the #148 couplers to the trucks and be done with it.
Agree?


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## nsr_civic (Jun 21, 2010)

in the second pic you posted you can see a small shelf on the frame. i would use some small styrene shims to build that up and mount to it.
i have to do that same conversion to a bunch of tankers. i just need some draft gear boxes and ill take some pix and help ya do it.


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## whurd (Mar 17, 2011)

Thats where the tanker body snaps in.


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## nsr_civic (Jun 21, 2010)

got a pic of it with the body on?


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## LV 601 (Oct 25, 2009)

whurd said:


> Ok, allow me to preface this with saying, I'm an avid HO scale slot car collector. With over 150 slots, I have all of these tools and some. Such as but not limited to....
> Dremel, 2" squeeze clamps, variable watt soldiering irons, mini side cutters, and larger cutters, micro files, needle fine non-magnetic tweezers, and of course the ultimate problem solver... 32oz Ball Peen hammer... Often used to gently persuade things into submission. :laugh:
> 
> 
> ...


I am in the same situation with wheels... do you mind telling me where you found a source for wheels priced better than Ebay?


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## whurd (Mar 17, 2011)

> I am in the same situation with wheels... do you mind telling me where you found a source for wheels priced better than Ebay?


modeltrainstuff.com

Use the USPS shipping option and they come in cheeper than Ebay!


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## whurd (Mar 17, 2011)

nsr_civic said:


> got a pic of it with the body on?


Been a busy weekend... Took a fewe pics.. need tp upload them yet... If I can find some time!


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## Ventana (Nov 10, 2012)

Old thread... I know bit didn't think a new thread was necessary. If i don't get an answer here I'll post a new one.

Ok, new to this so bear with me, lol. I'm putting a set together for my grandson who is fascinate with model trains. I found an old set of ho trains (never used) that was given to my son back in the 70's. I needed some track to add to it so I picked up a couple of good deals on Ebay on used sets with track. all of the cars seem to be run of the mill "set" type cars and have the truck mounted "horn hook" type coupler. I want to convert these to Kadee #148's. Attached is a photo of one of the trucks. 

I've spent the better part of 2 days reading about this conversion but haven't had my "ah ha" moment yet. My question is... can I get the 148's and just unscrew the "horn hook" type coupler and install the 148 in it's place? If not what do I need to do. I Would rather not spend too much time and expense on these cars by not doing a body install and just keep the truck mounted couplers.


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## MarkVIIIMarc (Oct 19, 2012)

That is a different creature.

To make my model trains reliable I needed a kadee coupler height gauge. Forcing uniformity on my rolling stock was very important. 

If the 148 fits and the whiskers center it I would give it a try. On the cell I cant see the catalong but there are over and under set kadee whiskers also. Those are trucks I am not familiar with.

Oh, and use the weight standards advice from the NMRA. that helped me run longer trains.


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Ventana said:


> Old thread... I know bit didn't think a new thread was necessary. If i don't get an answer here I'll post a new one.
> 
> Ok, new to this so bear with me, lol. I'm putting a set together for my grandson who is fascinate with model trains. I found an old set of ho trains (never used) that was given to my son back in the 70's. I needed some track to add to it so I picked up a couple of good deals on Ebay on used sets with track. all of the cars seem to be run of the mill "set" type cars and have the truck mounted "horn hook" type coupler. I want to convert these to Kadee #148's. Attached is a photo of one of the trucks.
> 
> I've spent the better part of 2 days reading about this conversion but haven't had my "ah ha" moment yet. My question is... can I get the 148's and just unscrew the "horn hook" type coupler and install the 148 in it's place? If not what do I need to do. I Would rather not spend too much time and expense on these cars by not doing a body install and just keep the truck mounted couplers.


Looks like a Talgo adapter set-up to me.

I think this is what you're looking for.

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showpost.php?p=104533&postcount=14


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## Midnight85 (Jun 2, 2012)

When mounting kadees on some cars, (Tyco I think) the pin in the draft box is considerably smaller diameter than the hole in the kadee coupler. I found if I take the horn/hook coupler and very carefully with an Xacto cut the coupler away from it's center hole, just leaving enough to make a press fit of the plastic to the inside of the hole on the Kadee. Now you have a Kadee with the proper size hole for the mounting pin.


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## Ventana (Nov 10, 2012)

thanks for the replies. I think I forgot to mention that these are Bachmann cars with a screw holding the coupler in. 

I think I'll give the #148's a try,


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## broox (Apr 13, 2012)

NIMT said:


> Pictures are worth a thousand words!
> 
> View attachment 8699
> 
> ...


post of the year imo. very helpful!


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