# Sectional benchwork questions



## Steve Rothstein (Jan 1, 2021)

I apologize if this is not the correct area to put this question, but I am curious about how to make a sectional layout so it can be moved. I have tried to understand from searching some of the posts in the forum and got some ideas, but still have some questions. The reason i want to do this is that it lets me start building the layout before I get its permanent home ready.

I think I understand how to get the various parts working in tables. I like the idea I found of the Kamlock (I think that was the brand) tables but they seem expensive to me. I will use their pin and hole idea and very carefully applied hasps front and rear to lock the tables together and in the same places relative to each other.

I know how to get the wiring to the various sections using quick connects. That is the only part I fully understand. I have done that kind of wiring in the past for other projects.

My biggest question is how to make sure the track matches up so the train crosses without a problem. Is it really as simple as nailing down the track so it won't move and having as little gap as possible? I can see how doing flex track across the edge and then cutting it at the right point would make that work, I think. Not having a joiner there seems like a recipe for derailments to me.

The Kamlock website says that this doesn't work for elevated sections of track and they recommend that it be flat at the table edges. Their suggestion is to use custom tables with drops or elevations built into the table. Is that necessary or is there a simpler way? At some point I am going to want one track to pass under another and their idea of all drops in a table doesn't seem to allow for that.

Any help would be appreciated.


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## Steve Rothstein (Jan 1, 2021)

Well, the forum is a little smarter than I am. The recommended reading that came up after I posted had a thread I had missed. It says to use a little section of removable track across the edges, and even mentioned telescoping track. I am familiar with the one section from Kato Unitrack in N gauge that telescopes. I am going to look further into that idea. I was leaning towards this layout being HO though (not sure if I want to let my son keep all the N gauge trains we have now and start new) and was looking at trying the flex track and cork roadbeds. That might be beyond my skill level though (well, the idea of sectional layout might also be more than I can handle, btu I am not ready to give u on it yet).


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## DonRi (Jan 2, 2021)

Good that you found a useful thread that answered some of your questions.

It's a good idea to make modular sections to support your
layout. They make it easy to move or modify your track plan.s


Steve Rothstein said:


> Well, the forum is a little smarter than I am. The recommended reading that came up after I posted had a thread I had missed. It says to use a little section of removable track across the edges, and even mentioned telescoping track. I am familiar with the one section from Kato Unitrack in N gauge that telescopes. I am going to look further into that idea. I was leaning towards this layout being HO though (not sure if I want to let my son keep all the N gauge trains we have now and start new) and was looking at trying the flex track and cork roadbeds. That might be beyond my skill level though (well, the idea of sectional layout might also be more than I can handle, btu I am not ready to give u on it yet).


Steve

My earlier post froze up on me and I was unable to complete it.

You are wise to use a modular plan for your layout...it makes it easy
to move or to modify the track plans. I had a room size HO layout. The
benchwork consisted of a number of various size rectangles. These were
entirely screwed and bolted together. 

Most serious modelers use flex track. It is fully compatible among
makers and all turnout and other track accessories. It is very easy
to use. It comes in 3 foot sections that you cut and bend to
match your track plans. Regular joiners connect the various
sections. Track on roadbed
systems limit you to the curve radius they offer and require that you use their
turnouts which often are not trouble free. It is often more expensive also.

Since you expect to move the layout you might want to consider how
you will 'connect' the wiring from module to module. There are multi
conductor cables and connectors that are available for this. However,
you might consider using DCC controlled turnouts which would eliminate
major wiring. You then would only have the 2 wires for your track bus, There
are many easy to use connectors for 2 wires.

DonR


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## brob2k1 (Dec 7, 2015)

Tracking this as I’m going to start building my modular layout benchwork later this week into the weekend. 

@steve I’m interested in how you were going to do your electrical? That’s the one item I’m still concerned about. I was going to run a primary bus that would connect to each section and then a sub bus that would have turnouts / lighting etc specific to that section.

In regards to the track I was going to leave a gap where I could then insert a track that would go over the joint in the two sections. I’ve watched some videos and it’s easier with flex but doable with the Kati unitrack as well. I personally don’t feel comfortable having a gap between two sections.


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## Steve Rothstein (Jan 1, 2021)

brob2k1 said:


> Tracking this as I’m going to start building my modular layout benchwork later this week into the weekend.
> 
> @steve I’m interested in how you were going to do your electrical? That’s the one item I’m still concerned about. I was going to run a primary bus that would connect to each section and then a sub bus that would have turnouts / lighting etc specific to that section.


I was going to run a bus for each module for the track power, connecting the buses into long bus by using a quick disconnect on each module. I found these busses on Amazon and they will do it perfectly: Amazon.com: PCB007 1X 12 Position Power Distribution Board 2 Inputs 2 x 13 Outputs for DC AC Voltage New: Toys & Games. They allow you to put the input at one end, then run the connection to the next bus in line at the other end, and have enough connection points for 12 feeds to the track, which is way more than I will need. If necessary, I can use boosters and basically have as many busses as I need, one from each booster (I doubt I would need more than two boosters and I may not need any). Anything that comes off track power can come off this bus, including any lights or things like that. To control the turnouts, I like real switches and I can use 25 pin sub-d connectors for those, something like these: https://smile.amazon.com/Antrader-B...25+pin+sub-D+connectors&qid=1609725542&sr=8-3. I haven't made up my mind, but I am also considering using Digitrax DS64 decoders for the turn-outs also though. Then it is all plug in Loconet connections to the master control box. I would need a different control box or to run a computer control for that though, because I am concerned that I would forget which way a turnout was set with the DCC controls. With regular switches, I can run a control panel with LEDs to indicate where the turnouts are headed, like the one shown here: 751 SERIES ELECTRONIC TURNOUT SWITCHES (I got that link from another thread and someone else's question - right now I am still using the Kato switches where I can see the lever to know how the turnout is set).



> In regards to the track I was going to leave a gap where I could then insert a track that would go over the joint in the two sections. I’ve watched some videos and it’s easier with flex but doable with the Kati unitrack as well. I personally don’t feel comfortable having a gap between two sections.


I think I can figure out how to do a drop in piece with flextrack, but if I stick with N, Kato makes one piece of Unitrack (stock number 20-050) that telescopes from 3 to 4.25 inches and works at any distance in between. That would make it easy to drop in place and extend to lock into each side, then disconnect by shortening it. I also would not have to worry about matching any specific track piece to which gap it goes in. The idea of a drop in gap section like that had not occurred to me until I saw that thread. I think it truly makes this whole thing doable for me.


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## Steve Rothstein (Jan 1, 2021)

brob2k1 said:


> @steve I’m interested in how you were going to do your electrical?


I happened to see these on a YouTube video last night. I think the guy posted it under the name of DCCGuy. But it solves both the electrical connection and the alignment at the same time. It is a metal set of male and female connectors that take the place of the alignment pins I was going to use to keep the modules properly set. But since they are metal, there is also a tab for connecting you bus wire to it. The connection is made for you when the tables are pushed together. eliminates the problem of hanging wires for the bus connection. 

Legacy Models PowerPoint Baseboard Dowels (4-pack)

If I do this and use stationary decoders for each turnout, all I need is the bus going from table to table. Make everything work off track power and this becomes easy. I could still use boosters if needed by using these just for the sections each booster would control.

I am not sure if I will use this, but I found the idea interesting.


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## brob2k1 (Dec 7, 2015)

Both options you are thinking about look very interesting. On my previous layout I ran a main bus and then used suitcase connectors directly from that bus as feeders and that worked great. I thought using the long distribution boards decrease the power output? Is that not the case? That's the primary reason I was looking at running a primary bus that connected one section to another and then a sub from that with feeders coming from the sub. Either way the goal is to only have two wires connected each section to each other.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

brob2k1 said:


> Both options you are thinking about look very interesting. On my previous layout I ran a main bus and then used suitcase connectors directly from that bus as feeders and that worked great. I thought using the long distribution boards decrease the power output? Is that not the case? That's the primary reason I was looking at running a primary bus that connected one section to another and then a sub from that with feeders coming from the sub. Either way the goal is to only have two wires connected each section to each other.


brob2k1;

If you are going to disassemble, and reassemble, your sectional layout often, then use plug & jack type connectors for any wiring between sections. N-trak, and other traveling show modules use plug connectors for two good reasons. 
First, the setup/teardown time granted by some arenas is limited.
Second, sometimes you are not allowed to hook things up yourself. Instead, a union employee of the arena must do that for you. I've seen these guys "at work" and since this is a family forum, let's just say that some of them have their "head end cars" firmly lodged in their "cabooses." So the simpler, quicker, and more foolproof, you can make things, the better. 
My own sectional layout is wired this way, so that I can pull out one section and work on it sitting at my workbench. Since I have many wires crossing the section joints, I use edge card connectors.

On the other hand, if your layout will only be moved when you move your household, then you can use terminal strips, like the "bus" Steve saw on Amazon. No, they don't add any real resistance to the flow of electricity. As long as the screws are tight on the wires, they are as good an electrical connection as anything short of soldering. 

Traction Fan 🙂


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## brob2k1 (Dec 7, 2015)

traction fan said:


> brob2k1;
> 
> If you are going to disassemble, and reassemble, your sectional layout often, then use plug & jack type connectors for any wiring between sections. N-trak, and other traveling show modules use plug connectors for two good reasons.
> First, the setup/teardown time granted by some arenas is limited.
> ...


Thank you for the additional information. I've been working hard the past few days in Any Aril trying to design the benchwork as I plan on creating that this week. I've read through your PDFs as well and it has a wealth of information but I do have a request for you. Can you possible upload a few pictures of your layout and how you have it wired? I'm not sure what you mean by the "plug & jack" connectors. 

In regards to my benchwork It's probably never going to move unless I move from the house. I do not anticipate or expect to ever take the layout to a show. If that ever happens then it would be nice to have that option but again it's in the room. I am going to have the benchwork on casters so I can move it back and forth if I wanted to so I could get to both sides of the layout all around.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

brob2k1 said:


> Thank you for the additional information. I've been working hard the past few days in Any Aril trying to design the benchwork as I plan on creating that this week. I've read through your PDFs as well and it has a wealth of information but I do have a request for you. Can you possible upload a few pictures of your layout and how you have it wired? I'm not sure what you mean by the "plug & jack" connectors.
> 
> In regards to my benchwork It's probably never going to move unless I move from the house. I do not anticipate or expect to ever take the layout to a show. If that ever happens then it would be nice to have that option but again it's in the room. I am going to have the benchwork on casters so I can move it back and forth if I wanted to so I could get to both sides of the layout all around.



Brob2k1;

I don't really have photos of my wiring, but that doesn't matter, as far as your layout is concerned. My wiring harness have a lot more wires than what you propose, so I use connectors that have multiple contacts. 
The term "Plug and Jack connector" is simply any electrical connector that can be plugged into a mating connector. A simple, and common, example would be the plug on the end of the cord that powers an electric lamp in your home. The connector on the end of the cord has 2 or3 male pins sticking out of it. We plug those into what, in this context, we call an electrical "outlet", but it's really a simple form of "jack" There are all sorts of variations. Headphone jacks & USB connectors would be common examples. In my response I used the term "plug & jack connectors" to discriminate any connector that cam simply be plugged into its mating connector vs. "terminal strips" which require the wires to be screwed into place.

There are some photos of my layout's track plan, and it's size & shape, in the Layout design section of this forum. Look inside the thread "Here are the layouts of some forum members."

The photos below show some bits of my very unfinished layout. It's a very unusual design that I found in an old Model Railroader Magazine article. Each section has a "roof" on the top. When they are bolted together, the "roofs" form a long shelf on which I store my collection of train books & magazines, plus lots of other stuff. My layout was originally wired for DC operation, with blocks of tack insulated from each other. When I switched to DCC, the blocks were retained, but wired together into one big block.

My turnouts are not controlled with my DCC system, but rather with DC gear motors which are wired for "route control." 
Setting one knob for a particular route, moves all the turnouts needed for the train to travel that route to the necessary positions. All this requires a lot of wiring. Since I have many years of experience fixing electric machines, this is not unduly bothersome for me, but I keep all wiring neat and color-coded to help me trace problems as they arise. In the top photo you can see some of my wiring in the white area at the extreme lower right. If you click on that area once(single click) and then double click it, you should expand things enough to see the wiring.
The "Cedar Falls" control panel shows how easy route control is to operate. The single knob on the orange area of the panel controls all the turnouts in Cedar Falls yard. The white area switches control motorized doors in the engine house.

Traction Fan 🙂


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