# Converting Steward Hobbies F7 to DCC



## Odyknuck (Dec 31, 2015)

I have 2 NOS Stewart Hobbies F7s I want to convert to DCC. I have removed the shell from one and there does not seem to be much room to work with. Anybody convert these that could lead me down a good path as it will be my first attempt. I have good Mechanical and Electrical skills so that's half the battle. Thanks in advance.
Steve


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## Odyknuck (Dec 31, 2015)

I have discovered the motor on this model is mounted in plastic cradle's and isolated from the frame. They are also Kato drives. Nice features for DCC conversion. Now to fit a decoder with sound in them. Any body got a pair of C & O shells? These are NYC.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

If you could post a pic with shell removed we would be able to offer some suggestions. You can get some small sound decoders now but the main problem is finding room for the speaker, but don't worry there's usually room somewhere for a 'sugar cube'.


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## Odyknuck (Dec 31, 2015)

It appears there is more room than originally thought. I have an additional .200" above the chassis rail and the step down in the back for a speaker.


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## Odyknuck (Dec 31, 2015)

Now to decide whats the best decoder for them. Don't want to break the bank on these as I have a lot more locos to convert. Oh! BTW these are F3s, Duh!


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Looks fairly straightforward. Disconnect the motor tabs (they are the thick copper bars) from the long copper strips and bend them up and away from the long strips, attach the grey and orange wires, isolate them well with heat shrink tube. If when testing it runs the wrong way just swap them over. Solder the black and red wires to the long copper strips after pulling them up in the middle where they kink so they sit above the plastic base, red to the right hand side of the loco and black to the left. All that's left now is the headlight, using the blue common and white. Buy some Kapton tape to secure the decoder, there should be plenty of room for it, or use a double sided foam pad.

Check the available space for the speaker and get something appropriate. Again use a foam pad to secure.

I have Tsunamis and they are excellent but about $100, they now do the Econamis which should also be good but a bit cheaper or you coul try the Wow Sound by TCS.


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## Odyknuck (Dec 31, 2015)

How about the entry level Digitrax SDH166D


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

You could use the SDH166D but has only the generic diesel sounds, not the specific F3. If that doesn't bother you go for it. Digitrax has a 'goof proof' warranty which is useful but you shouldn't need it. Looks like it comes with a Stay Alive and a speaker.


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## JerryH (Nov 18, 2012)

Here is a link for the F7 sound file from Digitrax.

http://www.digitrax.com/sound-depot/emd-567b-16-fp7a-non-turbo-roots-1500hp/


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

JerryH said:


> Here is a link for the F7 sound file from Digitrax.


You can load it to the decoder if you buy their PR3 computer interface, assuming you have a computer.


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## Odyknuck (Dec 31, 2015)

My primary concern is confirming operation of the used NCE radio power cab I recently purchased. I really do not need the sound however it's a nice touch. I can live with the generic sound for now. I ordered one of the SDH166s to try out. For 44 bucks I don't think I can go wrong. If I were converting a steamer then I would opt for a better unit.

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## JerryH (Nov 18, 2012)

You can buy 2-3 non sound decoders for the price of 1 sound decoder and not have the hassle of fitting for sound. Since you stated you have more locos and don't want to spend a lot, some deals have multi packs even cheaper. Since you like NCE, here is an example of a ten pack at less than $15 per decoder.
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/NCE-HO-Ten-Pack-of-D13SRJ-Decoders-p/nce-524145.htm


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## Odyknuck (Dec 31, 2015)

I agree however part of my confirming the cab functions are the sound buttons. I also like the ideal of having sound.

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## Odyknuck (Dec 31, 2015)

I am looking at speaker placement and was wondering if I would get better sound facing up toward toward the shell or facing down for sound to travel thru the truck opening. It will be mounted over the rear truck either way.

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## Odyknuck (Dec 31, 2015)

Well I got the SDH166D installed. For what it cost I am happy with it. It was definatly a tight fit. I mounted the speaker by shaping a piece of 1/4" square styrene and gluing it to the bottom. I inserted it into a slot on the back. Worked out well. I used the grain of wheat bulb that came with the loco and it works fine.


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