# Beginner almost ready to wire...question already!



## paulrail (May 22, 2016)

Bench work is just about done and I'm thinking about wiring. 
The layout is 9'x11', double track main line, decent sized yard plus other Spurs and sidings. I'm also thinking of having feeders to every track section. 

I'm thinking about 14 gauge bus wire and 20 gauge feeders. I use NCE Power Cab. Will 14 gauge fit in the PCP Panel or should I run feeders from the panel to the bus line? Given the information in the first paragraph, do the wire sizes sound right?

As always...thanks!


----------



## deedub35 (Jan 29, 2014)

I used 14 for the bus and 18 for the feeders so that I could use the blue suitcase connectors to simplify the connections under the bench work.

I dropped a feeder for every section of track and also used a feeder to connect the bus to the command station.

The command station bus bar on my zephyr probably wouldn't accommodate a tinned 14 gauge wire anyways. The resistance on the short length of smaller gauge wire would have been negligible.


----------



## paulrail (May 22, 2016)

Thanks d. I was wondering about suitcase connectors, never used them before. They seem to be popular so I'm assuming they work well. If I want to use them do I need to go to 18 gauge feeders because they won't connect 14 and 20 gauge?


----------



## deedub35 (Jan 29, 2014)

Package says 18 to 14 gauge. I wouldn't risk a poor connection by going to 20 gauge.


----------



## WIrailfan (Mar 6, 2016)

I was at that stage back in March, I ended up using 16 gauge for the bus and 18 gauge for the feeders. I come from an automotive background and those suitcase connectors are bad news for me. I just made a LOT of jumpers for my bus. Of course right after I got done with the wiring I found these......which would have saved me close to 100 ring terminals :laugh:

You can see pics of my wiring in the link in my signature :thumbsup:


----------



## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

For an 11x9 layout I think 16 gauge is fine for the bus and 20 is fine for 2' feeders. Especially since you can set the command station in the middle somewhere. Also I solder 2 3' sections together and only run a feeder to each 6' section. Search "Wago 222 Electrical Connectors" on ebay for a much more convenient way to connect the wires together, rather than screw terminals or suitcase connectors.


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I've heard people go as low as 12 bus and 16 feeders, but I think that's overkill. 16 and 20 should be fine.

My personal opinion is also that people use way too many feeders. IMO, one per 6-8 feet is fine. My son's 12x8 has only a single pair (his choice).


----------



## paulrail (May 22, 2016)

Thanks, everyone. Very helpful information! 

How would I do this without this forum?


----------



## feldon30 (Dec 30, 2012)

I use 14 for the bus and 22 for the drops.


----------



## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

feldon30 said:


> I use 14 for the bus and 22 for the drops.


Yup. I have used 4' lengths of 22 gauge to feed an extension track to distant staging which had no feeders.. themselves. A pair of those feeders fed a total of 30' of staging track with multiple turnouts that were insulated at the frog (with factory installed jumpers under the frog). I never had a locomotive fail to start up and make sounds when I acquired its address on my DT400 throttles.

If all connections are sound and solid, and if you wire the tracks correctly to maintain voltage high enough to keep the DCC signal high, everything works reliably.


----------



## Homeless by Choice (Apr 15, 2016)

Lemonhawk said:


> ...
> Search "Wago 222 Electrical Connectors" on ebay for a much more convenient way to connect the wires together, rather than screw terminals or suitcase connectors.


:appl: Lemonhawk is complely correct. I ordered Wago 222-413 Lever Nuts. https://www.amazon.com/WAGO-222-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B017A19PV6/ref=asc_df_B000JJPA66/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193984242218&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17981183276642511968&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocpThey cost $0.26 each in packs of 100. It would require 2 wire nuts to complete the connection and they cost about $0.08 each (or $0.16 for each connection) in quantities of 100. For $0.10 more for each connection they are really worth it to me. By the way, they are much easier to use than wire nuts and they make easy, completely solid, fully insulated and reusable connections. :smilie_daumenpos: :smilie_daumenpos:

Thank you Lemonhawk for bringing this to my attention.

LeRoy


----------



## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

Way better than wire nuts! I'm also thinking of using their Luminare connecters to run the bus and feeders.


----------



## D&J Railroad (Oct 4, 2013)

I wouldn't trust a compression type connection for the long term. Soldering is the only for sure way.


----------



## rvnmedic6869 (Oct 29, 2019)

Lemonhawk said:


> Way better than wire nuts! I'm also thinking of using their Luminare connecters to run the bus and feeders.


I'm scrapping the @##$ suitcases and want to use the lever nuts. Stupid question: If I have a 3-port lever nut as shown for my 14AWG stranded bus wire to connect to my power supply, would I cut the bus, insert the end into the left port, insert my power supply feeder into the middle port and then insert the continuation of the bus wire in the right port?

Then I would also have lever nuts for the 22AWG bus wire with similar wiring?

Hope this makes sense!

Thanks,
Bob


----------



## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

The LeverNuts are all common so it makes no difference what position you use, they will be all connected together. Not sure what you mean by "Left Port" and "right Port". but if you mean left and right rail then no do not connect them to the same levernut, you need separate ones for left and right rail. Think of it as right(or Left) rail bus in, right(of left) rail bus, right (or left) rail feeder (20 gauge). I would mark a "R" or "L" on the wire nut so you don't get confused later as to which bus side the lever nut is on.


----------



## rvnmedic6869 (Oct 29, 2019)

Lemonhawk said:


> The LeverNuts are all common so it makes no difference what position you use, they will be all connected together. Not sure what you mean by "Left Port" and "right Port". but if you mean left and right rail then no do not connect them to the same levernut, you need separate ones for left and right rail. Think of it as right(or Left) rail bus in, right(of left) rail bus, right (or left) rail feeder (20 gauge). I would mark a "R" or "L" on the wire nut so you don't get confused later as to which bus side the lever nut is on.


OK, change "port" (their term) to hole. I wouild use one lever nut connector for the right rail and one for the left rail and mark them as you suggest. Thanks!


----------



## ncrc5315 (Jan 25, 2014)

I first found the WAGO lever nuts about 6 years ago, I have used them to wire up 460V 3ø electric electric motors, up to 15Hp. I have yet to have a problem with any of those motors. I also use them as junctions for low voltage connections, i.e. 24VAC or DC.


----------



## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

Yes the lever makes them easy to use. If you leave a blank, it makes it easier to insert a meter probe for trouble shooting!


----------



## rvnmedic6869 (Oct 29, 2019)

Lemonhawk said:


> Yes the lever makes them easy to use. If you leave a blank, it makes it easier to insert a meter probe for trouble shooting!


Great idea! BTW, I got the lever nuts today and wired my power supply and track feeders to them. I put in a 14G wire in one hole from the bus, the 14G wire in the next hole from the power supply and then the last hole was for the continuation of the bus. Also did the same for the 22G power supply.

I'm going to wrap some electrical tape around the levers (not real tight). I tugged on each wire after installation and they were all tightly gripped. Actually was able to finally power the engine all around the outer track until it came to a turnout. Need to work on them next.


----------

