# How to connect flex tracks?



## rva1945 (Feb 11, 2016)

Ok I do it using those metal joiners, but when I bend the (HO) track, one of the rails will always dettach from the joiner, obviously because it will have a different radius.

Is there any technic for this?

Thanks


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

I cut mine shorter - use a heavy snipper to cut the rail about 2 mm longer than needed and then a fine metal file to file it down to the right length p carefully.


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## fcwilt (Sep 27, 2013)

rva1945 said:


> Ok I do it using those metal joiners, but when I bend the (HO) track, one of the rails will always dettach from the joiner, obviously because it will have a different radius.
> 
> Is there any technic for this?
> 
> Thanks


I solder both joints with the new piece straight and the end of the old piece straight as well.

Then I bend the track into place and insure the correct radius if needed by using Fast Track Sweep Sticks.

I leave the end of of the new piece straight for attaching the next piece.

Frederick


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## thedoc (Oct 15, 2015)

fcwilt said:


> I solder both joints with the new piece straight and the end of the old piece straight as well.
> 
> Then I bend the track into place and insure the correct radius if needed by using Fast Track Sweep Sticks.
> 
> ...


Yes, I solder all my joints in a curve while the rails are relaxed and straight, and then bend the track into a curve. All my expansion joints are on straight sections of track. I assume you are using flex track, as there wouldn't be a problem with curved sectional track.


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## WIrailfan (Mar 6, 2016)

I built a jig to hold the track straight while soldering. That's the key.....soldering while the sections are straight. Just make sure your solder joints are good and solid or they may break when curved (don't ask me how I know this) :laugh:


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

I learned the hard way that you use joiner and solder two flextracks together while they are straight! Then you can bend them and do whatever you need to have them join up with straight sections. Anything on a curve needs to be soldered while straight. I moved all the block separators (isolated gaps) to straight sections. All this eliminates kinks in the track, its amazing how easy it is to put a kink in and how difficult it is to get it out! Eventually I got rid of all the flex track and used CV ties and glued the rail down.


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## gator do 65 (Jan 27, 2014)

I find that putting the fixed rail (atlas flex track) on the outside of the radius eliminates the rail pulling out of the joiner, this will leave the inside rail long and needing a trim.

On a side note; if you can stagger the joints even by just a couple ties will help eliminate kinks!


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## redman88 (Nov 25, 2015)

When I layer track on my 4x8 I soldered 3 sections of flex track together before placing them on the layout.


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## rva1945 (Feb 11, 2016)

Just to see if I was on the right path...I tested the already installed tracks with DCC. That's basically the best trial to see if there is a gap or something that will ruin the signal even for a fraction of a second:


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

This is one of the reasons I like MicroEngineering flextrack. It stays curved. Some people say it's hard to form into regular shapes, but I just use a track tool (basically, a piece of cast metal with two notches in it) and gradually work it around. Then I can trim off the excess rail, apply solder, and GTG.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

There are youtube videos on laying flexible track lengths.

I prefer to use track nails to hold the first piece in place along the centerline drawn on the plywood/cookie-cutter/spline. I lay it with the sliding rail on the inside of the curve. Then, I slide the inside rail of the second length the same distance the inside rail on the one already laid protrudes, and I insert the first length's slid rail that sticks out into the empty spikehead details of the second piece...if that makes sense. From there, wiggle a joiner into place and solder it.* It now is a firmly held length of contiguous and curved track.

Note that I lay a thin layer of adhesive caulk below the tracks along the centerline and remove the nails once it sets.

* I find it a bit tedious getting this setup to work well. It can't be done without either filing off spikehead details where it must rest between ties, or I have actually sawn the joiners in half so that they fit. They're still plenty strong, but they fit much better and when soldered they're as good as the longer length.

In the first photo below, you will see I actually cut a joiner into fourths. See it between the spikeheads along the inner rail. This was inside a mountain that held a spiral or helix. Worked like a hot damn. It's soldered, natch. Hugely tedious, and I only did it the one instance to say that I had/could. 










One last tip/suggestion. The rail ends, both on flex/sectional and on turnouts, have rough edges where they are cut. I was advised early in my HO 'career' to file all ends, all of them, to form bevels on both the bearing surface atop the rail head and on the inner flange bearing surface. See the diagramme I made to show what I mean. Doing this on joints in curves is beneficial, and very helpful when you are running trains along very tight curves; it helps to 'cam' the flanges across the joints.










Where I show the shaded bits on the rail head's end, you can accomplish this slight and shallow bevel/champher using a flat needle file available at your hardware, tool, and even dollar stores sometimes.


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## fcwilt (Sep 27, 2013)

Hi,

I honestly don't understand why you would want to file the ends in a bevel.

I strive to make the joint as smooth as possible which is fairly easy when you are soldering the joint in the first place.

Frederick


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Yes, I also don't really see the point in doing this. I do file the underneath of the flat bottom section so it slides into the joiner well.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

As I explained, it is helpful to pass flanges along the joint on tight curves, especially hidden ones where you want bullet-proof track. When an item of rolling stock has to negotiate curves near its limits, it is that much more critical to ensure smooth joints and consistent curvature. Beveling the rail ends makes it less likely that you'll get a derailment. It's the same philosophy behind Walthers' rail ends being beveled on their bridge tracks for their built-up turntables and why they urge the customer to add bevels to the turntable leads.


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## fcwilt (Sep 27, 2013)

mesenteria said:


> As I explained, it is helpful to pass flanges along the joint on tight curves, especially hidden ones where you want bullet-proof track. When an item of rolling stock has to negotiate curves near its limits, it is that much more critical to ensure smooth joints and consistent curvature. Beveling the rail ends makes it less likely that you'll get a derailment. It's the same philosophy behind Walthers' rail ends being beveled on their bridge tracks for their built-up turntables and why they urge the customer to add bevels to the turntable leads.


One big difference. 

Turntables are moving devices that may not always align well.

Soldered joints on fixed track are something else entirely.

Don't apply that advice in this situation.

As you said "critical to ensure smooth joints" yet the beveling makes the joint less smooth.

Frederick


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

Even soldered joints are not perfectly aligned. My point, if I must make it again, is that on a tight curve, the bevels help to guide the flange across the imperfections in alignment, as they do when aligning a turntable bridge.


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## fcwilt (Sep 27, 2013)

mesenteria said:


> Even soldered joints are not perfectly aligned. My point, if I must make it again, is that on a tight curve, the bevels help to guide the flange across the imperfections in alignment, as they do when aligning a turntable bridge.


Sorry but I disagree - you are just making the joint worse.

It's not hard to make them darn near perfect given that you are soldering them on while straight.

Frederick


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Why wouldn't you just pass a fine file across the joint after you solder it together? Then you have an absolutely perfect seam that is nearly invisible.


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## rva1945 (Feb 11, 2016)

*So far...*

...no shorts, no electric gaps.

Test on DC:






Test on DCC:





Testing the first turnout/siding:





R.


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