# Soldering iron recommendation?



## prinefan5

Newbie here....after reading about suitcase connectors and so on, I thought I'd try to practice up on some soldering. But I've never soldered before. Any one recommend a soldering iron specifically just for railroading? Or will any iron do? And what kind of solder? I'll get some old wire and do some practice soldering them together-- get some old rails and practice on that too. Thanks.


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## DonR

A 25 or so watt Weller is a good choice. Be sure
to get a holder for it. That is an important
safety measure.

Read up on the process of tinning what is to
be soldered together.

There are various techniques; some only
melt the solder at the connection point.

I like to take a dab of solder on the tip of
the iron to the connection that is pre tinned.
It cuts the time heat is applied and avoids
damage to plastic or electronic parts. You have
to test for cold solder joints tho. A 'cold' joint
may look good but won't hold and may not 
conduct electricity.

As with most 'arts' practice makes perfect.

Don


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## raleets

Ditto on the practice.
Once you get the hang of it (and it's NOT difficult) you'll be amazed how much fun it is and wonder why you didn't try it sooner.
Definitely not rocket science!


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## gunrunnerjohn

I like the Hakko line, specifically the FX-888D. It'll do pretty much any task. I think a 25 watt iron is not sufficient for stuff like track.


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## BK R

Like above.......to solder "old rails" .....clean them, when you think they are clean.....clean them again.


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## NIMT

This is my pick: 937D+

It will do everything from very fine Electronics soldering (safely) to Heavy rail soldering.


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## raleets

What you don't know is that NIMT has a laser eye. 
Yep, he just stares at the joint for 15 seconds and it's soldered rock solid. :stroke:


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## NIMT

raleets said:


> What you don't know is that NIMT has a laser eye.
> Yep, he just stares at the joint for 15 seconds and it's soldered rock solid. :stroke:


I'd just like it to work on this dang snow, foot and half in the last 2 days.


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## shaygetz

I use two old Archers from Radio Sham...must be 40+ years old at least, a 25 watt and a 40 watt, purchased for 25 cents each at a yard sale about 10 years ago. Work like a champ, used regularly and look like something off the set of "The Road Warrior"...:smilie_daumenpos: The 40 watter was hot enough to do this generator bracket on my TE a few weeks back...


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## D&J Railroad

I have an old Weller soldering iron too. I've replaced the tip a few times as it wears down from filing it to a point.
When you buy solder, make sure you don't get the acid core solder. That will damage rail.
The size of solder that you will need is the real thin stuff, i.e. .022" or .032". I use the .022 for decoders and the .032 for rail joints and drop wire connections to the buss.
Also, you might get a small tin of flux. A small tin will last you about 30 years. It's used for cleaning solder joints were ya might have a chance of a bad connection. Ya just wipe a small amount onto the work area, apply the soldering iron and it makes the flux run into the joint. Then ya touch the solder to the heated area and it will flow pretty good.
Soldering is nowhere near as trying as welding. Your first trials will be just to melt some solder with your soldering iron. You'll find that's pretty easy. Next is to solder wire to the side of the rail without melting the plastic ties. A little more challenging but very worth the effort.
The objective is to melt the solder onto the items you want to solder together, not just the soldering iron tip.


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## mikek

I have a standard soldering iron, a 25 watt Weller SP 23. It heats up quick enough, and is fine for wires. For track I would imagine a more powerful iron would be better. The thing is the iron has to have enough residual heat to do the job quickly. Hanging around waiting for the joint to weld is troublesome. You want to get in and get out.
I have one of those pistol looking irons, supposedly quick heating, powerful...yeah. I always have to fuss with the tip to keep it connected. Then it's kinda big and bulky, certainly not for little wires. Maybe I would try it for track, with a nice big copper tip if one was available. The hassle with this one is you have to keep holding the trigger for the iron to work. It would be better if it could lock on.
What I used to solder up a tin model boat was one of those old irons as big as a hammer. That puppy could carry some heat. Still had to let it catch up sometimes, but it was my go--to iron for big jobs.


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## FRED On Board

prinefan5, et al...

My line-up of soldering irons is simple and does whatever I need for my model RR and my restorations and constructions in my antique radio and amateur radio hobbies...A Weller WES50 (currently sold as model WES51) 50w adjustable temperature soldering station, a stand alone Weller SP23 and a Weller 8200 100/140 watt dual heat soldering gun...(I won't include the heavy, old fashioned 100w American Beauty iron with the Bakelite handle and cotton wound power cord that I have as that's clearly overkill for what is needed in the majority of situations, as discussed in this thread)  

As others have suggested, the Weller SP23 works well as does the similar model rated at 30w from Radio Shack sold a few years back...Regardless of what iron or pistol you have, keep the tip clean, tinned with fresh solder and tightly screwed into the barrel or interference nuts, as the case may be...A damp sponge used to wipe the soldering tip from time-to-time will be a friendly helper in keeping the tip nice and shiny for making trouble-free joints quickly and cleanly. 



> I have one of those pistol looking irons, supposedly quick heating, powerful...yeah. I always have to fuss with the tip to keep it connected. Then it's kinda big and bulky, certainly not for little wires. Maybe I would try it for track, with a nice big copper tip if one was available. _The hassle with this one is you have to keep holding the trigger for the iron to work. It would be better if it could lock on_. ~ Member mikek


Steal one or two of those heavy, wide rubber bands from stalks of celery or broccoli as often sold in the produce section of your grocery...Slip that over the handle and position it just below the trigger for when you need to keep the gun hot for rapid sequence soldering...I use such a rubber band from time-to-time on my dual heat Weller gun that I've had since I was in the 7th grade, 55 years ago...It still works like a champ for soldering HO gauge track, ring and spade connectors after they've been crimped onto 18awg to 12awg gauge wires and any constructions using copper, brass, or tin plated tubing, sheet stock or native pcb copper (printed circuit board) appropriate for model scale structural elements.

Two things that may be of some benefit: (1) rosin solder paste as in a commercially prepared and packaged form and (2) de-soldering braid...Both available at Radio Shack...The former used sparingly to aid in solder flow and a deterrent of cold solder joints for those tempermental or otherwise not perfectly clean connections; the latter for unsoldering connections that will enable removal of parts or parts leads that will be returned to service at some later time.

FWIW

Bruce /FRED On Board
ATSF, BN, SP, UP


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## wcsjr1

*Solder Iron Tips?*

NIMT, one of the reviewers for the 937D on Amazon said the tips were worthless. Has that been your experience and if so what tips do you use?


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## DonR

Ken

I've been scouring the big box and neighborhood hardwares
and can't find any replacement tips for my Weller soldering iron.

Where do you get yours?

Don


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## D&J Railroad

DonR said:


> Ken
> 
> I've been scouring the big box and neighborhood hardwares
> and can't find any replacement tips for my Weller soldering iron.
> 
> Where do you get yours?
> 
> Don


I think I picked up my last one at Radio Shack. I think any kind of tip will work as long as you can tighten it down with the set screw.


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## drabina

I have this one:

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/bk2000-soldering-station.html

I used it to restore all my vintage audio gear and to work on tens of various other electronic projects for the last 3 years or so. The soldering station still works like new and the price was a fraction of the well known Hakko stations.

I am not affiliated with the company. Just a happy customer.


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## NIMT

wcsjr1 said:


> NIMT, one of the reviewers for the 937D on Amazon said the tips were worthless. Has that been your experience and if so what tips do you use?


Tips for these are very easy and cheap to get, I've never had a problem with any of my tips, from a super fine pencil tip to a large wedge tip, they have all worked for me.
I find the problem for most is using the wrong solder, I use .015 dia. 62/36/2 silver bearing solder, and .32 dia. 60/40 rosin core solder.


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## underthetire

This station is good as well. Hakko copy, uses any Hakko tips
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/..._with_Adjustable_Heat_Range_with_US_Plug.html
Think its the same as others have listed .

Sent from my G-Tab Quantum using Tapatalk


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## gunrunnerjohn

I like that one better 60W capability is good for a wider assortment of tasks. Since it's temperature controlled, it's also good for fine PCB work.


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## KT425

I would recommend that Hakko FX-888D. Its a great digital temperature controlled station. I love the pre-set and sleep modes. They come in handy when you do alot of soldering projects that are similar in nature. I tried to find where I got mine and couldn't (may they are out of business) but I did find this one: http://www.gotopac.com/Hakko_FX888D_23BY_p/fx888d-23by-hak.htm. And it has free shipping. I know its more expensive than going to radioshack and getting a cheaper one, but from the research I did Hakko is a good brand that has quality products that last. And replacement tips are easy to come by too. Since you are going to be practicing you may end up accidently killing some tips. I know I did. Just remember to tin the tips before you start practicing and then clean them when you are done. 

As for solder any rosin based solder should do.

But most of all practice practice practice. It really does help. Good luck!


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## underthetire

I have the hakko 888 before the digital model. Great little iron, however the generic hakko I posted really does work just as well, at least once you put a genuine hakko tip on it.

Sent from my G-Tab Quantum using Tapatalk


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