# How to Get "Glue Stain" Off of a Plastic Building



## DavefromMD (Jul 25, 2013)

I'm building a plastic brick detailed building. Due to having to separate and reglue 2 wall sections, there is now a white "stain" on the brick where glue got on the surface.

The glue is Cyanoacrylate (is this what is referred to as CA?).

Anyone have a idea on how to get rid of the white "stain"?

I could explain it away as weathering - you know how over time brick gets white stains from where leaching takes place from the mortar, but it is a bit too big for that.


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## thedoc (Oct 15, 2015)

Paint it, it is said that paint covers a multitude of sins.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

I'm not expert at this, but sometimes the paint won't cover the glue because it simply won't adhere to it well enough to stay put and to dry as a cover. If you wish, try a small emery board and try to scuff the glue off, or just to scuff it sufficiently that more paint will stick to it because of the new 'tooth' you have given the glue surface.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

It'll cover the white stain, been there, done that. There is no way other than covering it that I know of to get rid of it. I'm very careful with CA adhesive for that reason.


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## thedoc (Oct 15, 2015)

The problems start when you try to mix mediums. Paints and glue can be water (and alcohol) based, oil based, and lacquer (or solvent) based. Some Plastics are oil based, thermal plastic is usually solvent based and solvents will soften them, but some of all kinds of paints are formulated to adhere to plastic. Offhand I'm not sure what CA's are based on, if I remember correctly, acetone will release, it and that is a solvent. I believe lacquer thinner (finger nail polish remover, another solvent) will as well. One way to answer the question is to take a piece of scrap plastic, the same as the building, apply some glue to the surface, and test different kinds of paint on it. I think thermal plastic (most plastics used in model buildings) is solvent based, but CA's don't seem to soften it like other solvent based adhesives. Let us know what you find out and we can all learn something.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Once the CA dries, acetone will not get rid of the white stain left by the glue. I've tried that too.


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## Volphin (Dec 7, 2015)

Try polishing it with some very fine sandpaper or steel wool. CA is often used as a gap filler in plastic scale modeling and it will polish clear. You may still have to paint it, but it's worth a shot.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Time to grow a vine.  Add a shed. Place an oil tank. Add a dumpster or a drain pipe.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I agree with T-man: hide it with some detail or other. A well placed sign can cover a lot of sins.


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## santafealltheway (Nov 27, 2012)

mesenteria said:


> I'm not expert at this, but sometimes the paint won't cover the glue because it simply won't adhere to it well enough to stay put and to dry as a cover. If you wish, try a small emery board and try to scuff the glue off, or just to scuff it sufficiently that more paint will stick to it because of the new 'tooth' you have given the glue surface.


You can also just spray it with a bit of clear matte, then the paint will stick.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Once the CA dries, acetone will not get rid of the white stain left by the glue. I've tried that too.


My experience, too. You might want to sand it, as Volphin suggests if the stain looks 3-D. Normally, I prime buildings before I paint them and I have never had any problems with the primer (Rustoleum gray auto body primer) sticking to it and covering it.


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

Yep, good old fashioned auto body primer covers lots of sins.
Dries quick.....sands easily......and takes new paint very well.
Try it......boo-boo will be bye-bye! :thumbsup:
Bob


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## thedoc (Oct 15, 2015)

Some auto body primers and other paint will "attack" the plastic, you need to test it first on a piece of scrap.


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