# MTH RealTrax versus Lionel Fastrack: My Verdict



## chipset35 (Sep 4, 2015)

Two brands of modular track and two issues:

1) Lionel Fastrack:
You have to make sure the track snaps together, and sometimes they will not, and what you just explained happens.
I have found that gluing the sections together with Woodland Scenics Foam Glue solves the issue. As it is strong, yet ONLY use a little bit, we are talking 3-4 small dots, and if you have to pull apart later, that glue is forgiving.
However, I find the powered sections of Fastrack and their connectors to be a hassle and prefer MTH's RealTrax lock on system with it's pre-made banana plug cables.

2) MTH RealTrax:
Under the best of circumstances, this track will be very hard to snap together, you have to shimmy it a little bit.
Worst off, there is a 30% chance while the track is new that the connectors will mangle, i.e. one bends down and does not touch the one that was supposed to be next to it. Moving this brass/copper(?) connector back in to place results in a 50% chance for it to break due to metal fatigue.
Moreover, each time you take apart and re-attach sections of RealTrax, the chance for the happening and/or the u shaped connectors not touch, or becoming bent into an "L Shape" or worse increase by 10% each time.
Kind of odd that this track does this, as it is supposed to be for temporary layouts.
I do however, prefer MTH's Realtrax lock on system with it's pre-made banana plug cables over Lionel's though.


VERDICT:
Either go with Gargraves track from the get go, or if insisting on modular, stick with Fastrack, despite the superiority of MTH REaltrax lockon system for power.
Fastracks powered sections are also more cost effective, as MTH RealTrax would require you to buy the lock and cables.


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## Lynn D Bennett (Jul 27, 2013)

I have a 7 x 9 layout with about $1000 worth of MTH RealTrak screwed down on my layout. RealTrak was the single biggest mistake I made in this layout's recent build. It was all new using their switches. Several problems came up with this inferior track system:

1) There are no alignment pins for the rails and every junction of track sections leaves a slight mis-alignment. If vertically mis-aligned the trains bump over the junction. If the mis-alignment is horizontal the train is thrown about. I had to take a grinder to many of these junctions to keep the trans flowing smoothly.

2) The switches are terrible. 
-The track spacing and guide rails are so loose that the trains bump their way through the switches
-The auto de-railing feature was made inoperative by poor quality control when the isolated track section that is the electrical contactor for the function was shorted to the adjacent track section
-I had to disassemble each one and adjust the points to get the point to fully close
-Some engines have the relative position of the wheels and the pickup such that it shorts out when crossing the points

I have no idea if the Lionel FasTrack is any better but I am told it is (???). If I had it to do over (no chance with $1000 invested!) I'd use some other track system that I would research a whole lot more than I did the MTH RealTrax. I was told not to use this track but foolishly, because it allowed my desired track layout in a smaller space, I failed to listen. I created the problem.

LDBennett


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## chipset35 (Sep 4, 2015)

Lynn D Bennett said:


> I have a 7 x 9 layout with about $1000 worth of MTH RealTrak screwed down on my layout. RealTrak was the single biggest mistake I made in this layout's recent build. It was all new using their switches. Several problems came up with this inferior track system:
> 
> 1) There are no alignment pins for the rails and every junction of track sections leaves a slight mis-alignment. If vertically mis-aligned the trains bump over the junction. If the mis-alignment is horizontal the train is thrown about. I had to take a grinder to many of these junctions to keep the trans flowing smoothly.
> 
> ...


I feel your pain.
Those plastic "frogs(?) on the MTH RealTrax switches will pop out a little when you connect the track, as sometimes the person might squeeze the underside of the switch track (you can feel it flex), and that pops it out.
Also, if the MTH RealTrax switches are placed too close to each other, it will sometimes cause the 2nd switch to refuse to move, make a buzzing sound if you try to do it manually.
And of course, the magnetic mechanical apparatus which mounts the light always seems to break somehow.
I describe the movement to connect MTH RealTrax as "violent".
All kinds of crunchy, breaking, odd sounds, as well as grunts and groans.


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## Lynn D Bennett (Jul 27, 2013)

The problem of two switches placed close to one another and the buzzing noise is the anti-derailment feature being continuously shorted out. Isolating those parts of the switches' track section removes the short. You just shorten the anti-derailment rail sections so they do not touch the adjacent track sections. This is an MTH quality issue. I made the correction on every one of my seven switches and run two 072 switches back to back with none of this problem after shortening those rails (they are the two short sections of track in the "V" of the switch).

If left to buzz, the switch motor will eventually burn out. Switches are only suppose to be energized momentarily to change.

LDBennett


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## chipset35 (Sep 4, 2015)

Lynn D Bennett said:


> The problem of two switches placed close to one another and the buzzing noise is the anti-derailment feature being continuously shorted out. Isolating those parts of the switches' track section removes the short. You just shorten the anti-derailment rail sections so they do not touch the adjacent track sections. This is an MTH quality issue. I made the correction on every one of my seven switches and run two 072 switches back to back with none of this problem after shortening those rails (they are the two short sections of track in the "V" of the switch).
> 
> If left to buzz, the switch motor will eventually burn out. Switches are only suppose to be energized momentarily to change.
> 
> LDBennett


Which part do you shorten?
I do not recall which part is the anti-derailment feature.
Also, whats the best way to shorten it?
Thanks


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## Lynn D Bennett (Jul 27, 2013)

It is the two short section of track in the "V" of the switch. If you can take them up off the layout just file them shorter so when mated with any other track section there is a small gap. If you have to leave them on the layout then uses the thinnest grinding disk you can buy for a Dremel. They just need to not touch the rail of the adjacent track section. The gap can be very small.

Once fixed those MTH anti-derailment features are extremely fast acting and prevent a engine derailment through a switch set wrong at almost any speed.

Any continuous buzzing from one of these switches is BAD.

LDBennett


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

No plastic track for me! I still like and use the old fashioned o tubular. While not realistic ( and I dont care ) its reliable, cheap and the switches are great. 
Agreed with Lynn on the buzzing and shorting out.


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## eddiem (Dec 3, 2015)

I use Fastrack for all my layouts. I've tried the Realtrax that came with a few MTH sets I have, and it's just awkward to use.

As far as connections, it is easy to solder the feed wires to the underside of Fastrack and you end up with no lockons and a very solid connection. The designed connectors are fragile and too small.

Ed


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## Ricky Tanner (Sep 19, 2015)

I've used Lionel Fastrack for temporary layouts over the course of several years and I have had no issues with it.It's rugged,reliable and looks very good. I solder the power leads directly to the underside of the straight sections. This is much easier than using lock ons or the spade connectors. I have run literally hundreds of different locomotives of all sizes from Lionel,MTH,Weaver,Atlas,3rd rail with no issues including Legacy,TMCC and DCS. My only gripe is the lack of affordable wide radius curves. The 0-84 and newly offered 0-96 curves are 1/2 sections and 32 are needed for a circle. Lionel charges the same price for those half sections as a full section of 0-72 Fastrack. Go figure. As far as MTH,The MTH track systems are poor due to the lousy connectors and wide spacing of the ties. I tried some of the scaletrax and found it impossible to work with.


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## Todd Lopes (Nov 11, 2015)

I, too, use Lionel Fastrack for my temp layouts and found it to be reliable. Some of the various components, such as the lighted bumpers and the earlier remote switch tracks can be problematic, but nothing that can't be overcome. I've heard some issues with the 031 curve track as well, though I don't have any experience myself with them.

From my experience, the MTH Realtrax has been challenging. From what I've been able to research, there has been some manufacturing difficulties through the years which presented a lot of difficulties on the user end.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

I always liked Fastrack and used it this year, as in the past, around the tree for the holiday season. That said, I'm very happy with the Atlas I used when I replaced all my Fastrack when I ruined it by using simple green on it.


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## mauka (Jul 15, 2013)

Fastrack would be great if the rails were made of nickel-silver. Used it once and had constant rust problems, cleaned and packed it away hoping to use it again in another environment. 

I purchased about $700 in RealTrax for a small 5x9 layout planned for 2016. I would have gone with Atlas but they seem to have a real supply problem.

Alan (aka Kelunaboy)


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## Todd Lopes (Nov 11, 2015)

Alan, I agree that Fastrack would be cool if it was available in Nickel Silver too. I haven't had rust issues.


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## Larry Sr. (Sep 7, 2015)

Hi all

I am at about 280 feet plus of fastrack. 

I also solder the feeds. Additionally, I have 13 switches mostly 0-72 with a couple of 0-60. No problems and I do like the track.

I put down some ballast and used some paint markers for some fake rust . It looks pretty darn good for my toy like layout. 

Of course I'm giving you only my opinion.

Larry


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## bobyoung (Sep 21, 2015)

All of my track is Atlas. I have used a lot of MTH RealTrax in the past, and once I learned how to connect and disconnect it the problem of bent and misshapen copper (or brass?) connectors disappeared. I learned to connect and disconnect by angling each piece about 15 to 20 degrees from the adjoining piece and pushing down until it snaps together.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well Larry, my opinion is your opinion is 100% correct, nice job on ballasting the Fastrack to blend it right in.


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## chipset35 (Sep 4, 2015)

Thanks guys!
Larry that ballasted Fastrack looks great!


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## Guest (Dec 6, 2015)

I used FasTrack for my 6x9 layout and have had no problems with it. I have Realtrax that I use under the Christmas tree and so far it's been fine though I prefer FasTrack.


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## Guest (Dec 6, 2015)

Larry, your ballasted FasTrack looks great. I will eventually do that to my track. What did you use for ballast?


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## Todd Lopes (Nov 11, 2015)

Larry, Looks great. Really like your track work. The extra ballasting is a great addition.


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## CHOO-CHOO MIKE (Nov 5, 2015)

We have been using MTH realtrax for over 12 years since it came out for our modular group.
We have just expanded the layout and bought more of it. Mostly all solid rail.
Have we had problem ? Yes a few.
Is there a perfect track system ? NO ! There is bad batches of track out there from both companies.
The modular group in the next room next to us uses Lionel fastrack and they have had a few problems also.
Both layouts and others will be set up next weekend at the Boulder Model Railroad Clubs Model Railroad Expo. See both track systems in action ,ask questions and make you own judgements.


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## rj5620 (Feb 5, 2015)

Larry, what did you use for your asphalt looking roads? Nice layout and attention to detail.


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## Larry Sr. (Sep 7, 2015)

Thanks guys

Sorry Chipset not trying to change your original subject just give a little feed back to questions.

The first old picture you can see I played with Masonite for lots of things the roads and sidewalks runway land pads ect. were made from 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch Masonite spray painted flat black then spray misted with a gray primer. It was then lightly sanded with very fine grit.

The stripping is just regular hobby tape you can get at most hobby shops in colors and widths.

The ballast is a mixture of roofing granules and woodland scenics ballast mixed until I liked the color.

It was then glued with a 50/50 mix of elmer wood glue and water. Then after that was completely dry sprayed lightly with scenic glue.



Nothing super fancy here I'm a toy train person and not into being perfect on stuff. Just like to play and have fun with it nothing else. 



Larry


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## laz57 (Sep 19, 2015)

I use FT and never had any problems with it. A little expensive but other then that no problems. I wish I would have waited for the CC switches.

MTH track is like wrestling with it to get it together. Broke a few pieces. I only use it under the Christmas tree.


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