# Interchangeability of track, couplers, accessories, etc?



## Colinkun (Dec 2, 2015)

Newbie here, doing a bunch of research before making a plunge into the hobby.

One question that I'm still unclear about the answer for, is about the interchangeability of all the various track types, couplers, power supplies, etc. I'm finding plenty of options and opinions about different companies' offerings, but wonder how interchangeable it all is?

For example, if I purchase a Bachmann starter set with their EZ-track, how easy would it be to expand by attaching Atlas Flex or another company's track, attach additional non-Bachmann rolling stock, haul the Bachmann stock with a new loco, etc. Are there easy adaptations or difficult modifications that I will need to make? Any gotchas to be aware of?

If I puchase a new loco, will it run fine with the power supply that came with the Bachmann starter set?

How will my first purchase choices limit my future options to expand? I'm not ready to spend big-time money until I can grow into the hobby a bit.



I'm loving all the info I'm finding. Thanks in advance.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Bachmann EZ HO track is not readily compatible with HO flex track, turnouts
and other track accessories tho some have been able to make adaptations.

You pretty much must thus buy only EZ accessories and that does limit your
layout flexibility. Your curve radii are determined by what's available from 
Bachmann. 

Except for specialized track such as the EZ, most makes of flex track is
compatible with other make turnouts and accessories thus you have
a great deal of flexibility in layout design and you are not limited to
a certain brand.

The actual trains, knuckle couplers, wheels and the like are mostly
compatible between brands. 

You can feel safe buying an HO train and running it on whatever
HO track you use. 

You should be aware of the meaning of the terms DC, DCC,
DCC ready and DCC on board. If you buy new the locos or
trains will have one of those terms to describe it. If you buy
used, you must determine how it is powered.

DC means the train runs with power from a power pack. But any
DC HO train will run on any other make track. It should not be run on
a DCC layout. The power pack varies the track voltage from 0 to about 13 V DC.
You can run any DC train on any DC layout regardless of make.

DCC means digital command control. It gives you the ability
to control 2 or more trains on the same track without
complicated wiring. You have independent control of each loco.
Most DCC locos can be controlled by most DCC controller makes.
The DCC controller puts about 14 v modified AC on the track
at all times. Some DCC locos can be run on a DC layout.
You can run most any DCC loco on most any DCC layout
regardless of make.

Basically, a DC loco should ONLY run on a DC track.
A DCC loco should ONLY run on a DCC track.

DCC on Board means the loco has the necessary decoder already
installed on the loco and it will run on any DCC layout.

DCC ready means there is a jack inside where you can plug in
a DCC decoder that you buy separately. Without the decoder
it is simply a DC loco and will run on any DC layout.

You will likely be most pleased if you buy a train without the
track so that you can choose the better track that is more
flexible.

Some don't buy trains. They select one or more locomotives that
they like and add individual cars from time to time.

A DC layout requires the track, the train and a Power Pack to
control it.

A DCC layout requires the track the DCC train and the DCC
controller to power it.

Don


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## Colinkun (Dec 2, 2015)

Thank you for the detailed response. That makes a lot of sense so far.

Do you think the DCC route is biting off more than I can chew for a true newbie? I would love to think that I'm going to transform my basement into an awesome grand layout with multiple trains running concurrently, but I'll be starting small to begin with and would prefer to add as I go.


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## leadsled (Dec 25, 2014)

Colinkun said:


> Thank you for the detailed response. That makes a lot of sense so far.
> 
> Do you think the DCC route is biting off more than I can chew for a true newbie? I would love to think that I'm going to transform my basement into an awesome grand layout with multiple trains running concurrently, but I'll be starting small to begin with and would prefer to add as I go.


I recently returned to the hobby about 9 months ago. Until that time I had never heard of DCC, and avoided it at first. I started out with two bachmann train sets that were DC. I have mixed some EZ track with Atlas Flex, and Atlas turnouts. I plan to eventually swap out the ez track for flex as time goes by. 

As I began to learn more about DCC, I started to see some advantages. Sooooo I finally settled on a DCC controller and a DCC loco. I was hooked in just a few moments of using it.
I have since converted my other locos to DCC. No turning back now! Well that is my story and I am sticking to it!!!


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

DC controls the track by varying the amount of current flowing through the rails as well as it's polarity (which rail is positive, which is negative). The locomotive responds to this by running at different speeds and directions.
DCC controls the locomotive by sending a packet of signals to a specific locomotive. The amount of current in the track is constant from the time the system is turned on until it is turned off. The signals sent to the locomotive tell it what direction to travel and how fast to run. They also control things like bells, whistles, horns, lights, etc.
So DC controls the track, DCC controls the locomotive.


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## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

Colinkun said:


> Do you think the DCC route is biting off more than I can chew for a true newbie? I would love to think that I'm going to transform my basement into an awesome grand layout with multiple trains running concurrently, but I'll be starting small to begin with and would prefer to add as I go.


DCC is not too much for a newbie to understand. In fact, when it comes to larger layouts, DCC wiring is way easier than DC. Since you have dreams of a large layout, invest the extra $$ now and get yourself going in DCC. As I mentioned, it is more expensive, but not prohibitively so. And it's way more fun...you can have sounds, and the slow-speed control of the loco is sooo much more precise.

Good luck!


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Yes, I agree with fire21 again. DCC is actually easier for a newbie than
DC. There is nothing to learn. The wiring for a small layout is a pair
from the DCC controller to the track. You place the loco on the track.
Punch a button (it's DCC address), turn up the speed control and you
are running a train. It's nowhere near as complicated as a TV remote.
The engineers did all the heavy digital lifting so you can have the fun.
If you have yet to buy, get a DCC starter set. Get your feet wet that
way, before you scuba into the big layout. Try to avoid the EZ track
type of stuff tho. That will make your transition to a big layout easier.

Don


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

The answers to your questions kind of depend on what you mean by "big time money". Most of us can't afford to drop the price of a new car on our new hobby. We can, however, scrounge up a car payment or two's worth to get started. If you're saying anything more than a couple hundred dollars will break the bank, that changes the picture.

Recognize that most of your first attempt at a layout will be throw-away effort -- as you develop in the hobby, you will refine your idea of what you want to do with your trains, how realistic you want to be, and how much "hands on" (as opposed to "watch 'em go!") you want. Your skills as a layout designer, and a scenery / structure builder will also grow, and things that are "good enough" tomorrow might not be in a few years. Whether you actually junk the first layout (I did) or just rebuild and expand is up to you. Almost everything except scenery is reusable, though.

So, assuming you don't have a VERY small budget, I would start small, using good quality purchases, with an eye towards being able to reuse everything later. If you want a roadbed track, I would suggest Atlas TruTrack. It's a little more expensive, but it uses standard Atlas sectional track pieces, so if you want to ditch the roadbed later, the track is perfectly good. Moreover, it uses standard rail joiners, so it's very easy to add track from different manufacturers. The realism (brown vice black ties, Code 83 rail) is also better than other roadbed track (except Kato, but that's much more expensive). The only real drawback to TruTrack is you're stuck with the lower quality and less realistic "Snap Switches" for turnouts. Flextrack is another option, but unless you really know what you're doing, you can get into trouble with curves and grades due to inexperience). It does have the advantage of allowing virtually unlimited track plan possibilities.

Like the others suggested, if you even think you might want to go DCC, then I would invest from the get-go. You can get limited sets like Bachmann EZ Command or MRC Explorer very cheaply, but you will soon outgrow their limitations if you want to expand (primary the number of locomotives you can have and the power available). Full-featured, expandable systems are available from Bachmann, Digitraz, MRC, and NCE; with intro sets that don't cost too much (unless you're on the $100 is too much plan).

If you're really unsure about continuing in the hobby, or really don't want to spend much, a train set may be a viable option. In general, though, you won't get top quality stuff, and they are often just a mishmash of power and rolling stock without a lot of thought given to a more realistic theme. The DC power packs that come with these sets are also notoriously poor quality.

So, your eyes have probably already glazed over, so I'll quit while I'm ahead.


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## cv_acr (Oct 28, 2011)

DonR said:


> A DCC loco should ONLY run on a DCC track.


*Some* DCC decoders will be advertised as "dual-mode" meaning they will work on analog DC power. Some don't.

The electronics may require a bit more power initially to start moving, so they probably won't run at the same speed so you can't run a straight-DC and a dual-mode DCC engine together in the same train as they won't be speed-matched.


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## mcc5491 (Nov 22, 2015)

I have a question that has bearing on this subject. I too am just getting started I've done a preliminary rough layout on paper and ordered some parts including a DCC controller. If I decide to do building or signage lighting or remote switches what do I use for their power supply? Can they be powered off of the DCC system or do they need DC power?


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

You will want to pick up some sort of power supply for all your accessories.
AN old DC transformer or wall warts of the proper voltage, etc.

Use the DCC system only for track power.

I use a wall wart for my tortoise switch machines and two DC transformers for lights etc. 
All are hooked up to a power strip and one flip of a switch shuts off all power.


Magic


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## mcc5491 (Nov 22, 2015)

Awesome thank you for the information.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

You can get the wall warts to power your accessories as Magic
suggested at most any flea market for just a few $. Your
Twin coil Turnouts will need around 12 to 16 volts and can be
either AC or DC. Tortoise type turnouts need around the same
voltage but DC. The voltage of lights can vary, but also keep
in mind that LED lights need DC current.

When you see a display of wall warts each will have a label that
describes it's output voltage, whether AC or DC and it's
current capability, often in milliamperes.

Don


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