# Atlas 2065 under table switches



## lmdave (Apr 20, 2012)

These under the table switches have to be the most annoying switches to install correctly.










The pin has to be in the middle position and the switch track has to be in the middle position I believe when you install it. But every time I test it, The PIN moves back and forth but the slide bar for the track stays and the switch pin flops back and forth in the hole of the slide bar.

Then after about 30-45 minutes of trying millimeter movements of where the switch is placed it will finally find it's happy spot and work. But, its out of sheer luck to find the right position to place the switch.

Anyone who uses these, can you give me some advice on installing these, I have a few more and the first couple drove me nuts.


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## Xnats (Dec 5, 2010)

I never used them, so I'm no help. Are you going through just plywood or foam and plywood?


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## lmdave (Apr 20, 2012)

I'm going through just 1/2" foam. My switch tracks are actually on a small elevated portion of my layout. So, I'm able to install these on the rigid foam strip before I add it to my layout, it really helps being able to fool with it without it actually being on the layout yet. I'll have to post a pic when I get home to show what I mean.

So the mid point of the pin coming from the switch is touching the throw rod holes on the track, not a long distance.

I'm wondering if going through the middle will help instead of using the fraigle side holes?










My main problem is once I have these all assembled, if I have to dissable the track to change something, I have to go through all of this again to find that magic spot.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

It is easier to go into the middle of the switch's draw bar.
I don't use the atlas dual coil switch machines but the tortoise switch machines and they mount the same way.
I use tooth picks to hold the rails in the middle of the switch positions to make it easier to set up.
Install with one screw in the rear of the switch machine and tweek it side to side till it works properly then add in the other screws.


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## lmdave (Apr 20, 2012)

Thanks for the tips.

On another note about switching/wiring in general, since I'm new to wiring.

I have an inner circle and outer cirlce, I want to control two trains seperately on each circle, so I'm wiring as followed, red dots being insulators.










If say I'm running one train only and want to cross over, if both transformers are set on about the same percentage, will the engine just transfer over like this, but at the point of crossing the insulators, the back wheels will get power from one source, and the front will get power from the other, but same polarity.

Will this work?


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

It will work.
It's best to use Transformers with overload protection just to be on the safe side. 
I've also hear about people putting in a fuse, circuit breaker, or Automotive lamp to protect it too.


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## Carl (Feb 19, 2012)

Here are some site that offer information on wiring:

http://www.building-your-model-railroad.com/model-railroad-wiring.html

http://www.modeltrainbuilder.com/Model-railroad-wiring.html

Electrical wiring is not NOT one of my skill sets.


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## lmdave (Apr 20, 2012)

I finally got all four of these in the right spot to work and quickly secured them. The problem with my layout is I'm going to have a small hill formed around my switches. I'm waiting on signal lights to come in and wire them up, then I'm going to take my chances of closing it up. Worse case I'll just have to rip the hill up and reform it.

But here's the switch track section right now:


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