# Wiring 2 022 switches in tandem from one controller?



## Bloodhound (Dec 2, 2012)

Hello folks, I'm trying to wire two 022 switches to switch in simultaneously from one controller. Would someone mind giving me detailed instructions as to how do do this if it is in fact do-able?


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Something like this? Remember also that the non derailing feature will automaticly turn a switch to the track that has a train on it. Pic coming in a min.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I have to switch browsers on my phone to post pic.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I believe this would make one switch control the other one. Dont know if this is what you need.


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## Bloodhound (Dec 2, 2012)

Your diagram shows 2 contollers being used whereas I'm looking to use only one controller per pair of switches. I tried to simply add jumper wires from one to the other and only the switch with the controller directly connected to it will switch.










4 total 022 switches and two manual 042 at the dead ends....


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I hooked that up as a test without the controlers. the train would allternate between loops . Outer then inner automaticly. I dont know if there is a way to operate 2 switches from one controler.


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## Bloodhound (Dec 2, 2012)

Doesn't alternate without the controllers on my end. Without switching it'll run the outside loop all day. Without both 022 switches kitty corner one another wired to switch togethrt the train derails when it hits the non wired switch. Somethings fishy here!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

If you simply connect the switch terminals 1:1 between them and to the controller, it should work. Just to make sure, I took a pair out and connected them on the bench. You can even have them switch to opposite positions at the same time by swapping the leads between the outside switch posts. You actually don't need to wire to both center posts, they'll be grounded anyway. All the switch controller is doing is grounding the lead you select.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I think grj has two extra of everything !


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Just delete one controller from the diagram. It is redundant. Wiring the outer two terminals of two switches together should make them switch at the same time. I do it all the time, and generally don't use a controller. 

Try this: Wire the switches together in pairs. Wire the switches together that are directly across from each other. From your picture, it appears that you are wiring the two switches together that are diagonally across from each other. When you wire the switches together, cross the wires so that the opposite terminals on the switch are wired together. Do it for both pairs of switches, and then run the train. You will get a very interesting pattern of the train running around the track. If you wire it as I tell you, the following will happen without you touching the controller:

From where the train is, it will take the divergent path on the next switch. The non-derailing feature of the next switch will throw it to the divertent path and will throw the switch directly across from it to the straight path. The train will go through this switch (straight path) without changing it. When it gets to the next switch it will throw it to the straight path (upper right switch in your picture) and will throw the switch across from it to the divergent path. Etc. Try it and see what happens. Now imagine a layout with 40 switches wired together together in pairs. The train operated all the switches without any intervention from me and it took 22 minutes for the train to complete one circuit of the layout. I suggest you wire the switches "above ground" until you get it all working. If it doesn't do as described above, you may have not crossed the wires between the switch terminals.


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## Bloodhound (Dec 2, 2012)

That's what I thought John. It shouldn't matter what switch the controller is connected too should it?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Nope, they're truly in parallel.

I'm heading out to the train club now, I'll be back in the morning.


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## Bloodhound (Dec 2, 2012)

Tested with fixed voltage plugs removed on track power only. Wired the outside of the terminals together and the opposite switch (no controller) will switch SUPER slowly between 12-14 volts only. Any more or less and it does nothing. We plan on running this setup at varying speeds all the time hence my wanting fixed voltage so this is a no go....

Testing as servoguy recommended at the moment. Do the 022 switches use just 2 insulator pins?


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Yes only 2 insulated pins. Powering by fixed voltage was key on my layout. I had a lazy switch also . But with extra power it doesn't get lazy anymore. Make sure the pins are in the right rails also. Servoguys idea will work. Thats why I was trying to figure out what you wanted. Utilizing the non derailing feature is cool. Automatic operation.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

022 switches usually work at 10 volts. Have you had yours apart to lube them? Some motor oil makes a big difference. I have 4 in my layout now, and two more to add soon, and 8 more coming. Of the 4 in the layout, 3 work at 10 volts, and one has too much friction. I think the sliding switches need to be adjusted.


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## Bloodhound (Dec 2, 2012)

I'm having issues with two switches. Even melted a lantern cover in the process. Looks like loose outside terminals on one and an internal issue on the other(tap it and it will work intermitantly). Not very happy at the moment but I'll work through it.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

get my post "022 and 711 switch operating pblms" and go through each switch. Even NIB switches need to be serviced. Search for the post using Google. It is very thorough. Remember, I did 83 switches and posted all the problems I found. I just did 6 more, 4 of which are in the layout in my hotel room. 

I doubt that the terminals are really loose as far as the wiring is concerned. They sometimes turn a bit in the plastic housing they are in. When you are all done, they should work as slick as a hot knife through butter.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Bloodhound, this stuff c an be tedious and agonizing. Test everything before finalizing anything. ( even then I worry about taking it apart and putting it back together) . Like I said before you need the patience of zen Buddha I know this doesn't help but look at it as progress. For such little " toys" these thinks are hard to master. You can build and restore a car, I can build a house from scratch but a "toy " train gives us trouble. Go figure.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Service the switches, even if they seem to be operating properly. You will be glad you did.


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## Bloodhound (Dec 2, 2012)

Thanks for working this through with me guys. Ok, first switch fixed. I noticed that depressing the center rivet on the wide section of track made a big difference. I cleaned around the lip with a small wire brush and re-pressed with a small ball pean hammer tip. Problem solved.

Switch 2, loose terminals checked again and NOT the issue. Been working the switch by hand and now operating. Will require lubricating and should do the trick! 

It's funny isn't it SJM. I sometimes feel "powerless" in this new hobby alright. Like anything else it takes time and patience. We help eachother on my car club forum just the same. 

I must say Servoguy your test was allot of fun! Watching the switches working automatically is a little nerve racking wondering if they will self correct but when they do its like a mini victory all in itself!  I'm starting to think wiring the switches in tandem like I had planned will take some of the "auto fun" out of this! 



All is good on track power only and I have yet to try with fixed voltage plugs. Fingers crossed!


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

The center rivet on the fat rail is held in place with a screw that is inside the bottom cover. Remove the bottom cover and tighten the screw.

The problem you had with the train derailing when you had the diagonal switches wired together was caused by the train being too long. The engine was trying to throw the switches one way, and the end of the train was trying to throw them the other way. Ne'er the twain shall meet.


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## Bloodhound (Dec 2, 2012)

Ya know I thought of that but the non derailing action wasn't working at the time and the switches weren't functioning properly. It was the engine jumping the track not the cars. Regardless, I'll be mindfull of that going forward. 

You mean all I had to do was tighten a screw? LOL


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

You also have to take off the bottom cover. The older 022 switches have 3 small hex head screws. The newer ones have two straight slot screws, still quite small.


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## Bloodhound (Dec 2, 2012)

Well, no go with fixed voltage. The lantern lights on the switches illuminate but the lights on the controllers don't. If I add track power the controllers then come on and the switches will switch slowly or quickly depending on the track voltage. Will not function on fixed voltage alone.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Some of the 022 switches have a wiring error in them that would explain what you are observing. Read my post on servicing the switches. You are going to save a lot of time by doing all the switches at one time.


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## Bloodhound (Dec 2, 2012)

Thanks Servoguy. That 022 manifesto of yours is like reading War and Peace! LOL 
I'm on it.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Yeah, it took a good amount of time to write it. As you can see, it wasn't written all at once, and as I used the switches, I learned some things which were then included in the post. There is nothing complicated about any one step in servicing the switches, but there are a lot of steps. Did you find the part about the wiring in the switch motor being wrong so that the fixed voltage plug doesn't work?


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## Bloodhound (Dec 2, 2012)

Not yet, still looking.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Hope you get it resolved soon. I hope I dont have the same problem . I never hooked up my controls yet!


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

There are two small wires coming out of the side of the coils near the fixed voltage plug. These wires should go to the pin of the fixed voltage plug and not the spring. You will sometimes find them on the spring. To unsolder something like this, go to Radio Shack and get the unsoldering braid. This is a small copper braid that has flux on it. You heat the braid with a soldering iron while holding the braid against the terminal. The heat will draw all the solder off of the terminal. 

If you want confirmation of where the wires should go, open up one of the switches that works correctly using the fixed voltage plug and see how it is wired.


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