# z21 (white) power supply help needed



## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

I've got a z21 (white) coming from Germany.
It's probably going to arrive with the "Euro plug" 2-prong adapter.

The power supply itself is (at least, I think it is) rated for 100-240vac, 50-60hz.
So... it should work well enough using standard "USA power".

BUT... what to do about the funky connector?
I've seen numerous cheap adapters that look like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-Euro-...ean-Travel-Adapter-Charger-/182408734661#rwid

Yet all of them seem to have mixed reviews, particularly about quality.

I may try an adapter to get started, but I'm thinking of finding an alternative power supply with a standard USA plug.

However...
...I'm wondering if there are any special requirements that must be met to work properly with the z21.

Also, I need to know the full specs.
Voltage? (18, or something else?)
Amps? (4 amp capacity?)
Wattage?
Proper connector size to fit the z21?

Can the z21 be used (for HO) at less than 18v?
Say, 16?
(I understand that the output of the z21 is "one volt lower" than the dc input?)

DCC beginner here.
Any help appreciated.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

You can lop off thr connector and install your own. It's not hard.

Of course, one of those cheapo plug adaptors will work just fine. I actually have a set of 6 assorted adaptors so that I can plug in a laptop or charger anywhere in the world (supposedly).


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

As CTVRR suggests you just need to cut the supplied one off and fix the correct one. You’ll also need to do the same for the WiFi router unit too. The white models are split from train sets.
Track output is 18v and I think your white unit has a rated output of 2amps.
It’s a great system, I’m sure you’ll love it. I have the black unit. FCWilt also has one.


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

Cycleops wrote:
_"As CTVRR suggests you just need to cut the supplied one off and fix the correct one."_

OK, I don't have the unit yet (and may not for a little while), but I was under the impression that the power supply "block" has the plug molded into it. That I couldn't just cut the plug off and attach a USA-style plug.

Actually, I found what looks to be an excellent replacement:
Powerstream PST-YD100W
https://www.powerstream.com/AC-A0407.htm
$29.50.
Adjustable output voltages (12, 15, 16, 18, 19, 20, 22, 24vdc), can provide 5.5 amps @100watts. 
Even has a USB charging port. If my Samsung Galaxy player [which seems to run the z21 mobile app fine] runs low, just plug it into the power supply with a long USB cable and keep going.

I'll try the z21 first with a Euro-to-USA adapter, but if that acts flaky, I'll try the power supply above.

The router came with a Euro plug as well.
But I found a TP-Link "USA plug" power supply for $6.96 shipped on ebay.

Is 18vdc really "where you want to be" for DCC in HO?


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

J.Albert1949 said:


> Cycleops wrote:
> _"As CTVRR suggests you just need to cut the supplied one off and fix the correct one."_
> 
> OK, I don't have the unit yet (and may not for a little while), but I was under the impression that the power supply "block" has the plug molded into it. That I couldn't just cut the plug off and attach a USA-style plug.
> ...


If it's a wall wart issue, you can buy those on-line fairly easily. Just make sure the output is correct (VDC/W, amps). Don't worry about the jack, as you can splice in the one from the original power cord.


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

Well, the z21 made it in from Germany yesterday. Came with a powerblock with the Euro-connector plug molded onto it. I went ahead and ordered the Powerstream supply mentioned in my post 4 above. Of interest, the powerblock for the z21 makes no mention of a usable voltage range -- it says only "240". It -does- say 50-60hz.

I won't have this stuff all together for another week or two, and don't currently have any dcc-equipped engines anyway. Oh well. One step at a time.

The z21 came with only one of those "little green connectors".
I'd like to have one or two more around as spares, but finding them wasn't easy.
I'm wondering if there's a USA source for them -- I think not.

I did some searching on the net, and came up with the following info.
The connector seems to be made by "Steckerklemme", with the additional nomenclature
"2 pole rm3,5".

I'm unsure of the Roco part number, looks to be either "96321" or "10820".

It doesn't cost much in Europe or the UK, but the shipping from at least some places is exhobitant -- $40 or more (for a part that costs 2 bucks). No thanks.

I did find one possible source:
http://www.ictbstore.top/-p-317.jsp

I'm not sure where this is located. The price table defaults to Canadian dollars.
You can set the currency to US dollars, and they want $1.58 each for them.
Shipping is still $10.29 -- but that's cheap compared to others.

I guess there's no equivalent American company that makes a connector in this form factor.
This might be the cheapest source.

It seems kind of odd that Roco would use such an esoteric design for what's a basic connection.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

I think you’ll find that it’s quite widely available as I have the same one with my NCE PowerCab and I’m sure others use them as well.


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## franchar (Nov 27, 2018)

Does the z21 require a Roco decoder on the loco?


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

_"Does the z21 require a Roco decoder on the loco?"_

No.
It works fine with decoders I've tried from TCS, Digitrax, and Soundtraxx.
My guess is that it will work fine with -any- standard dcc decoder.

After using the z21 system since April (2018), I can say that I wouldn't want to use ANY of the other "wired" dcc systems.

Compared to the z21, they look archaic and overly technical to try to understand and get running. Like Mr. Spock once said, "the equivalent of stone knives and bear skins".

Imagine not really having to remember "the numbers" of particular functions from one engine to the next. Just look at your display and... tap the icon.

I can move -where- function icons are displayed by "touching and dragging" them to a new location.

Engine "numbering" is dead simple:
1. place engine on track
2. tell z21 to read the current number
3. enter the new number (up to 4 digits)
4. hit "program"
5. done.

Running two engines at once is also simple:
- use a tablet
- lock it into "landscape view"
- z21 automatically displays 2 operating controls side-by-side:
(see attached pic)

Want to change locos?
Just tap its icon on the bottom and you're good to go.
All the function icons change when you change engines.

After using a controller like this, trying to use one of the "popular" wired controllers would be... torture!


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

J.Albert1949 said:


> _"Does the z21 require a Roco decoder on the loco?"_
> 
> No.
> It works fine with decoders I've tried from TCS, Digitrax, and Soundtraxx.
> ...


NMRA-compliant decoders are system agnostic. That is, they will work with any manufacturer's equipment, agajn, provided it is NMRA compliant.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

J.Albert1949 said:


> _"Does the z21 require a Roco decoder on the loco?"_
> 
> No.
> It works fine with decoders I've tried from TCS, Digitrax, and Soundtraxx.
> ...


Have to agree, its not really a mainstream product but is just so easy to use. 
Don't like using tablet or phone? Many conventional throttles can be used.


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

Cycleops wrote:
_"Have to agree, its not really a mainstream product but is just so easy to use. 
Don't like using tablet or phone? Many conventional throttles can be used."_

I'm surprised that Roco hasn't marketed the z21 system more aggressively here in America. It's a winner.


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