# Bullfrog Snot



## BionicJcs (Jan 12, 2012)

Has anyone tried this stuff yet?


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

Have not tried it myself. However, there is a thread on it and some opinions. http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=11690&highlight=bullfrog

Carl


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## BionicJcs (Jan 12, 2012)

I know the sellers all say its great, but I want to hear from one of us who has used it.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I've heard mixed opinions on Bullfrog Snot. A number of people have told me that using silicon sealant in the traction tire groove wears better than Bullfrog Snot and works very well. I haven't tried that either.

I've attached a PDF file of the procedure to use silicon sealant for traction tires, I got this from a guy over in the OGR train forums.


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

John that sounds like it's worth a try. Kinda like making your own tires. Pete


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I've been meaning to try the silicon tire treatment. I bought a used locomotive that had been "equipped" with Bullfrog Snot, I was not impressed, it was all over. I suspect part of the issue was the person putting it on wasn't careful, but still...

One thing abut Bullfrog Snot, it's very thin and not designed to be put on wheels that are designed for traction tires. Gee, that's the very wheels that I'd want the traction on!


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

With so many engines that need these tires why doesn't somebody make them anymore? pete


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## musicwerks (Jan 4, 2012)

I tried on a few steamers, not sure if it's the oil stains on wheels, the snot falls off after a few rounds on 4x8 layout. I am sure I cured the snot for 2 days. It did improve traction for that short while until It dropped 

Costed a bomb and didn't work as well as it promised


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

musicwerks said:


> I tried on a few steamers, not sure if it's the oil stains on wheels, the snot falls off after a few rounds on 4x8 layout. I am sure I cured the snot for 2 days. It did improve traction for that short while until It dropped


The surface must be very clean for any kind of adhesion to take place. Any oils (lube or from fingers) will prevent it from sticking. I'd try cleaning the wheels thoroughly with 99% alcohol and re-applying it and see if that helps. More often than not when something sloughs off, it's improper preparation.

Carl


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## Lee_R (May 30, 2012)

I'll probably hunt up some appropriately-sized o-rings and "trim" as needed (for height), or try the silicon trick. Somehow, I just can't get past the name. :laugh:


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## Sasha (Jul 8, 2012)

*Super glue!*

I have an old AHM Fairbanks-Morse Rio Grande diesel. The front trucks are only for electrical pick-up. The rear trucks are only for drive. One side of the rear truck has traction tires, the other side, plain steel wheels. When the traction bands rotted away, I carefully filled the traction tires (and reversed one of the axels so there would be 'traction' on both rails) with LocTite super glue. I left it sit for about an hour upside-down, running at a moderate R.P.M. A little later, I trimmed the glue from wheels to match the height of the non-traction wheels with new razor blades. It works great and has no signs of wear yet. I don't know how long it will last, but so far, so good.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

norgale said:


> With so many engines that need these tires why doesn't somebody make them anymore? pete


The traction tires are still made, that's not the issue. Some folks have trouble with them staying on.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Another option is to use dental rubber bands for traction ... the kind that you'd have on braces.

TJ


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## JPIII (Jun 24, 2012)

Maybe it's just me, but...

My DCC set up *demands* CLEAN rails & wheels. My mix of locos span manufacturing dates and some have ....less than ideal electrical pickups.....but they will pull the grades as required.
If your DCC doesn't have demands to work , you need not read further.

If your engine won't pull your load, change the load or get a another engine that will do the job. I don't need more crap deposited, in what ever manner, to interfere with the electrics.

Just my .02.


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## musicwerks (Jan 4, 2012)

I tried bullfrog. Costs a bomb. It comes off after a few rounds on my 4x8. It does improve traction but the problem I had was to keep the stuff on.

If your loco has traction tired, culmet traction tires are better. I have tried them on my old tycos.


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## Mayhem (Mar 25, 2013)

*Snot*

I use it only because I could not find the proper wheel bands. It does how ever work but if you don't get the groove real clean it will eventually spin or come off. You must let it dry good and layer it on. I trim off excess with razor blade to make round otherwise your engine will hobble on the high spots. It does cost too much in my opinion. I have not tried the o ring trick, albeit I have thought about it before.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Another thing that was mentioned in another train forum is using silicon sealer in the tire groove. Apparently, guys have had good luck doing that with long life of the "tire".


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

If you do use RTV, use the high temp black stuff. Make sure the groove is very clean and oil free, or else the RTV will not bind.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Cleaning the groove is certainly necessary, but the folks I speak of actually used the regular white stuff, they said it gets black very quickly, and the high temperature aspect is a non-issue, at least unless your locomotive is on fire.


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