# 259E The New Candidate



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I have been commissioned to get this up and running so I thought a detailed thread would do it justice. To start. one old slightly weathered 259E. 




I didn't even bother to try it on the track. The side rods are badly rusted so the first decision was to replace them. Since they are riveted to the frame I decides to use a spare frame and steam chest . 





So the replacement steam chest and frame went to the Easy Off Strip Pan.



Here is used some silicone to coat the guides before painting.



Of course I had to undo the rusty frame from the boiler. It took a couple of tabs ( 6 to 8) to remove it. I first removed the motor( one nut) and the drive rod bolts (4).
More on the motor later.

The frame painted up nicely. Nothing fancy one coat primer and a Walmart gloss black. The steam chest gave me trouble and is in a redo loop( stripping again).


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*The motor*

There was a lot of cracked wires.



And no center rollers.



I cut out the old wires removed the e unit, and with a spreader I removed the bottom insert for the missing rollers.







One nice feature is the armature can be removed from the frame without a wheel removal.



The armature face plate was cleaned by using a drill and spinning it with 300 grit and 400 grit sandpaper.

Then I replaced the wire feed from the frame coil.



I had to remove the light socket first by drilling out a rivet, and then replaced the wire.



The lamp frame was attached with a 4-40 screw and nut.



The boring part was to wire brush the frame clean. Through all this I am working a parts lists.

The brush plate gets cleaned up with a little oil and q tips. The brushes are lightly cleaned by rubbing them on card stock . Then the test is next. Without the reverse unit it is very easy to test. The wire I replaced from the field coil on the frame gets connected to a brush. Then with two wires from a transformer touch one on the frame and the other to the second brush. It should run, it did.


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

T-Man, Why such a simple project?? It doesn't look "too far gone" to be one of your usual candidates!!! Rust removal, strip, primer, repaint, you should be done before New Year's Day!!! Is it one of yours, or for someone else? Either way, we know what to expect. You got the motor to run, so you are way ahead of the game. What parts are you going to need???


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

It's for someone else. So it is a repeat performance. I got to have an easy one now and then.


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Thought so, and it will get the T-man touch for sure!


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## MattR (Oct 30, 2015)

Hi quite the project!

Is there a reason you use silicone instead of grease for areas you don't want paint on? I use grease as it wipes off, whereas silicone drys to a rubber consistency and sticks a bit.

I have learned that trick over the years painting heavy equipment. We would coat the chrome parts of hydraulic cylinders before painting, then simply wipe it off afterwards. Same for other areas as well. Some gauge faces etc.

Matt


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## pitchy (Nov 18, 2015)

Cool beans, looking forward to seeing the finished result.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Ahhh never thought of grease but the silicone is cleaner. I normally use tape but tried something different. The silicone was kinda thick.

Next the e unit.


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Oh yeah, that definitely needs some work....Suppose it's getting a complete rebuild, all new innards!! Let me know about the cab weight I mentioned in my PM.

And Pitchy, do the "cool beans" have to be Van Camp???


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## pitchy (Nov 18, 2015)

> And Pitchy, do the "cool beans" have to be Van Camp???


Naw any beans will do. :laugh:


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Nice s far t man, it has te characteristic hump back that comes from old age the wheels cleaned up nicely. im sure you'll get it looking good in no time at all how about crome paint? Still want to see that done! Doc , the weight on the back? I think some had them and some didn't.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The engine was missing the trailing wheels and weights. I did clean the wheels when I tested the motor the wheels were spinning with a little sandpaper they look respectable.

I am lost on the chrome paint?

The e unit continues I used the spreader tool and examined the parts.







The parts passed my inspection so I just changed the wires. These old fingers are tough I couldn't see replacing them. The pawl shaft was rusty and cleaned up ok.

Now the motor is shaping up



The e unit works there was no rust up inside the shaft where the pawl drops. The only thing I need are spring brushes they are shot.



Now it is back to the body. Order parts. The steam chest survived a second stripping I washed it and let it dry before another try at painting.

I guess there has been a discussion on picture sizes. Here mine are great since they are all close ups. They seem better than ever. In Photobucket I save pictures at 1600 by 1200 m3 on my camera setting.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I saw one on eBay a few years ago, in chrome. They were for either the best stores or the Lionel executives as far as I could tell, I couldn't afford it so I tried to paint mine in chrome disaster. I got a cheapo plating kit ( not really plating ) and will try it in the future! Assumed you saw the thread! Its funny


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

The e unit survived! Lol, never would have though it would work.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The chrome story, I will have to reread it.

After the drum and the pawl shaft was cleaned of course it worked , The fingers had no corrosion and wiped cleaned.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The shell is next, after striping the pieces appeared to have been treated.




It did wire brush off.











And a little primer.





]


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Do you ever use Easy-Off to clean your oven, or just trains???? ROFLMAO!!


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*The tender 259 T*

The tender was complete and has only four wheels but to match it had to be painted too. 









A little wire brushing and they were ready for paint.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Parts are ordered. Time to assemble the bling. Easy day, valve gear rivets are next. On assembly there has to be a plan. Last time I installed the steam chest too early. The steam chest locks in the drive rods to the valve rods and I am also waiting on a weight. I did install name plates, domes and grab irons. As usual I got carried away. I needed a used copper bearing cap and found one on another tender. When the momentum started before too long it was all apart and in the Easy Off Oven bag, soaking.  This is an 8 wheel tender with loads of paint on it. Teledoc commented on the oven cleaner, and so far I have three empty cans . Good stuff and none of it was used on the oven. 

This project has been a reflection on projects past and I am already starting another parts list.
I have left the painting out on purpose until the engine is all complete.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Rivet Rivet*

Time to install the valve gear assy. One rivet at a time.



The frame hole was large but I managed to flatten it out to fit. Good ole ball peen hammer.



My anti tip technique.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

With Luck my parts should be in today, For some reason the Postal Service gave them a tour of Mich. Too bad we can't collect miles on packages.


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## bluecomet400 (Sep 13, 2015)

Awesome progress--looks great!!


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Here it is!


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

And another Fantastic Save!!!!!!


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## 3windowc (Dec 31, 2012)

Is it a Police car with one blue marker light and one red?


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

Wow. Amazing transformation. Looks great.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The marker lights are green and red. For some reason the color distorted probably from a reflection.

Thanks! 

The copper was clear coated and the nose was painted antique gold craft paint with the holding screw for the boiler front. The original rods were replaced and very rusted.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Sure looks purdy T. :smilie_daumenpos:
Nice transformation. :thumbsup:


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

It's a twin to mine. I finally got the right rods though the holes are a tad large.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Lord of the RIngs*

I always liked having a good engine when I start in on another one. This is the case with the 259e. With two working engines I did an evaluation on the rods. My original engine had some old parts and I mad a discovery after seeing my engine hestate but then run fine. Well it was a rod screw. One was too short . WIth a short shoulder the rod dragged against the wheel.



I also used a brass tube as a spacer. 5/32nd diameter.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Just seeing this ...

Another FABULOUS restoration, T-Man. Great work!!!

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Well I have to keep in practice.


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