# What can I do with 33x12...



## cbarm (Apr 15, 2011)

Hey guys, I origionally started with a room of 17.5x12 and now I have granted myself permission to use the whole loft upstairs. The room size is 33'4" x 12'. I have included a rough draft of the room and measurements and am looking for some ideas on how I can best utilize this space. I have built some benchwork and so far have just a 2' x 17'6" x 4'4" table just to get some action. The room on the right is going to be the main train room and the room on the left is sort of like a kids room/tv room, but I have no kids so nobody going to be abusing equipment or violating rules on the SAR...lol. I would like to use the TV room just for a double track mainline running around the perimeter and once back in the room to the right, I would like to utilize as much space as possible in there. I would like to have industries such as a small intermodal yard, and grain elevator, and diesel shop with a fairly good sized 5 or 6 track yard, preferably run thru. I mainly have 6 axle loco's and alot of intermodal stock including auto decks and so I need a minimum of 28" radius for mainline operations. I am also including a pic of the stairs leading up to this room and need opinions on whether to go around the wall beside the stairs or go thru it and have a bridge overhead while coming up the stairs.
You guys have been a huge help so far and I appreciate all that you have done so far...

I will put the pics in a different post so as not to make such a huge file...


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## cbarm (Apr 15, 2011)

Here are the pics of my benchwork made out of 2x3's and 7\16 OSB and the stair pics... 
The bottom shelf under the main table was intended for hidden staging, but I think I have built it to low and I am thinking of using it for storage of parts instead of staging now. What do you guys think of that?


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## cbarm (Apr 15, 2011)

Oops...forgot to post the draft of the room I did...


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Oh man...that's awesome.....you can do just about anything with a room like that. I'd look at adding some peninsulas that jut into the room to add to the mainline run. Try to maintain a minimum 30" aisleway for easy access.

FYI....24" radius allows use of just about anything, but the bigger the better in my opinion. Larger radii will look better.

I'd still use the lower level for staging. With the long run around the walls you can easily have a grade go from the main level down there without any issues. Take a look at my build thread to see how I went from staging up to the main level with a helix (26" radius used and 89' tri-level autoracks and double-stack intermodals work just fine.)

I'd pick up some of the layout magazines that are out there for various ideas on individual details to be added (intermodal yard, etc) Don't look at them as whole layouts, just identify features that you like and have room for and fit them into the plan.

You can also go to the Model Railroader website and view hundreds of track plans - you can search by size/scale, etc. Again, look at them from a feature standpoint, not necessarily for an overall layout plan. (For me, planning it out is half the fun)

http://mrr.trains.com/en/How To/Track Plan Database.aspx


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## cbarm (Apr 15, 2011)

Thanks Sstlaure...I appreciate the encouragement. I picked up some atlas 24" radius track yesterday and then built the end platform as soon as I got home to see how it would work. My 2 8-40C's touch coupler release handles on that curve and so thats why I think I need to go bigger. I origionally was thinking 24" would be good, but now I am thinking that 28 or maybe even 30 would be better, and especialy since i have the room for it. I was thinking that a peninsula running to the left about 12 feet or so from near the window on the right would be good for extra mainline running...


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

With that kind of size you're going to use a serious amount of track...I'd go with the Atlas flextrack. You can get 300' for $279 at trainworld.com. 

Then for planning/laying the track, make some radius templates from poster board in various radii. (26, 28, 30, etc) Use a hole punch and punch holes about every inch down the length of the template on the centerline. Place the template on the plyboard, use a sharpie to put marks through the holes punched in the template, then connect the dots and you have yourself a ready-made centerline on your wood to put down your cork roadbed (I'm assuming you're using cork - trainworld also has the best price for that 75'(25 pcs) for $28)

I'd even run a small peninsula around that small wall you have halfway down the room. Think about using backdrop scene dividers as well. It's a good way to have distinct scenes without having to have them spread really far apart. Use viewblocks (buildings, trees, etc) to disguise where the train enters/leaves a scene so that you don't have to buy or make a million tunnel portals or put tunnels in where they don't make sense.

I bet cabledawg would have a blast with this one.

Also, if you brace it properly - you can get away with 1x3 or 1x4 lumber and 2x2 legs just fine. That's what I built mine out of and I can sit on the layout table no problem (200lbs)


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## deboardfam (Oct 8, 2010)

Definately a nice space, I am also changing up my planning and going with a very similar space. 

Yeah cabledawg is gonna have a blast LOL.


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Oh yeah, don't necessarily keep the benchwork a set distance in depth from the wall, make it get wider/narrower in areas to create a nice flowing benchwork - you'll find you will use the space more effectively and will have a nicer finished product.


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## cbarm (Apr 15, 2011)

All my track is gonna be Atlas code 83. I already have a pile of #6 switches for my yard and #8's for the mainline crossovers. Does Atlas make #10's at all or who does? I have also bought about 20 lengths of the brown tie superflex from my LHS...but he wants $5.60 a piece so I might as well buy a box from Trianworld...
I also have about 20 under table switch machines (I cant remember what brand they are) but I got the on ebay a few years ago for next to nothin and I plan to make all the mainline switches CTC controlled like most prototypes n then use ground throws in the back tracks and yard...


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## cbarm (Apr 15, 2011)

I work for a class 1 railroad as a conductor so I have a little background in what type of switches are where...


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Sounds awesome cbarm. I've had great luck with the caboose industries groundthrows.

I just went and looked at trainworld - looks like they increased their prices recently (the price I stated above was Code100, but was a good price 1 month ago) It's now $319, Code83 is $399 - yikes. Doublecheck with them if it's the brown ties and not the black. 

I intend on painting mine, so I didn't really care and went with the cheapest route.


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## cbarm (Apr 15, 2011)

I thought about painting mine also. Put a thin strip of masking tape over the top and inside of the rail and go at it with an air brush. The proto railroads dont have shiny rails all the way around so why should mine be...haha


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

All the things I've seen about weathering track basically say to just give it a light dusting of paint and just wipe off the top surface before it dries. There are also paint pens available in rust and railtie brown.


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