# 314AW Whistle control box testing?



## TimmyD (Dec 6, 2021)

Merry Christmas all!
I just purchased an old 314AW in an effort to resurrect my fathers old set. I know that is what he had due to the whistle control box I inherited. I am a little confused though, I have something malfunctioning, and am trying to figure out which portion. 
I bought a replacement 314AW used, but in operable condition. When I first pulled it out and did a no load bench test, it operated as expected, maybe a little rough. When I put it on a loop and connected it per AF instructions, it is not working properly, no forward or reverse, and the whistle works on occasion. I am getting a lot of buzzing from the tender when power is applied, and occasional clicks, not sure if they are the reverse unit or the whistle unit.
Does anyone know how to test my whistle control box to make sure it is functioning properly?
Also, can this train be used without the whistle control box as a normal loco without the whistle? I tried operating it that fashion as well, and nothing but the buzz when power is applied to the transformer. If it should operate normally without the whistle control box in the circuit, than I think I have a reverse unit issue. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
TimmyD


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

You should be able to run the loco without the whistle box controller. Most of us will just eliminate that whistle because of the corny buzzing it gives out..You'll have to pull the shell to see what wire to snip. May I suggest a boxcar with the Rail Sounds from Lionel??...Back to your engine, I would do the basic trouble-shooting such as incorrect wiring, broken parts, etc... I'd also like to suggest having a test "mule" in your inventory. I can tell within seconds where the problem is, in either the loco or tender, by simply substituting one of my mules for the loco/tender in question.. I have a tender with long wires , and a 302 engine chassis that I use..Cuts down on the dents in the drywall when I throw things!!!!!


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## TimmyD (Dec 6, 2021)

flyernut said:


> You should be able to run the loco without the whistle box controller. Most of us will just eliminate that whistle because of the corny buzzing it gives out..You'll have to pull the shell to see what wire to snip. May I suggest a boxcar with the Rail Sounds from Lionel??...Back to your engine, I would do the basic trouble-shooting such as incorrect wiring, broken parts, etc... I'd also like to suggest having a test "mule" in your inventory. I can tell within seconds where the problem is, in either the loco or tender, by simply substituting one of my mules for the loco/tender in question.. I have a tender with long wires , and a 302 engine chassis that I use..Cuts down on the dents in the drywall when I throw things!!!!!


Thanks Flyernut! knowing that the train should function properly without the whistle unit attached is very helpful. I really like the test mule suggestion as well, I now have longer wires on my 300AC, but that won't work well as a mule given the reverse unit in the loco...  Either way I feel pretty comfortable checking the reverse unit function and tender for broken wires, it has to be something simple considering it ran on the bench yesterday afternoon, and then not yesterday evening after only replacing a coupler. The whole reason I wanted this engine was so the whistle unit would be intact as the set was when my dad was young. That said, it doesn't need to be run that often. The 300AC is a great one to leave on the tracks because I am not concerned about kids beating on it, and the 283 runs great when there is more supervision.
I did verify the wiring (as per AF instructions posted in the forum), and hooked up without the whistle I was getting no movement. I will check the headlight bulb, because it was not lit, and if not burned out, I will go to tender harness. If burned out, I will check the reverse unit. It is something simple, just may not have this one out for christmas, not sure yet. 
Thanks again and merry christmas!
TimmyD


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

A stuck or locked reverse unit is a possible cause of the buzzing and the failure to run. I think the only thing the 314AW Whistle Controller does is put a DC offset on the track power to trigger a relay in the tender. Connecting a DC voltmeter should confirm the presence of the DC voltage at the output of the controller.


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## Trackman (Oct 16, 2019)

TimmyD,
I was fortunate to acquire a 314 AW with the whistle control box several years ago. After getting the normal engine mechanism to run well, I started to fix the previous owner's rewiring of the whistle unit in the tender - what a mess that was. 
One thing that help me tremendously was Tom Barker's book on American Flyer repairs, specifically the section on the 314AW's whistle. One thing you'll likely find is the whistle control box's interior electronics are old enough to degrade in their effective impulse of DC current (used to activate the relay inside the tender, and cause the whistle motor to spin). 
As Tom mentions in the book, the whistle unit's adjustments are finicky (it's no wonder why AF stopped producing the 314AW). Tom also includes a new electrical circuit to create a better than AF design whistle control box.
Here's a like to Tom Barker's web page. I have three of Tom's books. The one I turn to the most in the color (latest) edition. 
American Flyer Repair Guide (tombarker.net) 
Good luck. Have fun at it. And, as you know already, this forum has a great bunch of folks willing to assist you when you get stumped. 
Trackman


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## TimmyD (Dec 6, 2021)

AmFlyer said:


> A stuck or locked reverse unit is a possible cause of the buzzing and the failure to run. I think the only thing the 314AW Whistle Controller does is put a DC offset on the track power to trigger a relay in the tender. Connecting a DC voltmeter should confirm the presence of the DC voltage at the output of the controller.


I was wondering what the mechanism was to use the track for the whistle as well in '50's technology, I hadn't come up with anything, but that is a check I can do!


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## TimmyD (Dec 6, 2021)

Trackman said:


> TimmyD,
> I was fortunate to acquire a 314 AW with the whistle control box several years ago. After getting the normal engine mechanism to run well, I started to fix the previous owner's rewiring of the whistle unit in the tender - what a mess that was.
> One thing that help me tremendously was Tom Barker's book on American Flyer repairs, specifically the section on the 314AW's whistle. One thing you'll likely find is the whistle control box's interior electronics are old enough to degrade in their effective impulse of DC current (used to activate the relay inside the tender, and cause the whistle motor to spin).
> As Tom mentions in the book, the whistle unit's adjustments are finicky (it's no wonder why AF stopped producing the 314AW). Tom also includes a new electrical circuit to create a better than AF design whistle control box.
> ...


Thanks Trackman! Yes, I have thought several times lately that the next addition to my modest collection should be a repair manual, just ordered the .pdf version of the one suggested. Looking forward to getting the 314AW running like (near) new in the not too distant future, though I think it will stay on the shelf through the holiday. 
Thanks and Merry Christmas!
TimmyD


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## TimmyD (Dec 6, 2021)

Update on this, I am having a reverse unit issue, the drum is rotating intermittently and I haven't yet figured out why. I am guessing a piece of linkage is a little too loose, like the brass lever that turns the drum. Still figuring it out...


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## TimmyD (Dec 6, 2021)

Ha! Mr. Barker's book is already paying itself off! My reverse unit pawl was usually not engaging with the drum, therefore not shifting the drum to a new position. After some light reading and referencing a youtube video ( 



 ) that I don't think I would have ever found, I made some adjustments and now it is generally working correctly!  Adjusting the pawl is a little tight on the 314 AW, but looking forward to a test in the morning to see how it performs on the track! The pawl still seems to kick way out, but I am less worried about it if I can get the engine to move frontwards and backwards! Oh, and this unit will have new fingers in its future as well...
TimmyD








This is with the pawl retracted, before activating the solenoid.








This is with the solenoid activated, but the pawl failing to turn the drum. The pawl still looks to be misaligned as it is headed out of the body, but is now working.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

A little adjustment is still necessary. Once the fingers are off, and the small screw on the bottom is removed, you can spread the sides of the unit and remove the drum for better cleaning.


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## TimmyD (Dec 6, 2021)

flyernut said:


> A little adjustment is still necessary. Once the fingers are off, and the small screw on the bottom is removed, you can spread the sides of the unit and remove the drum for better cleaning.


Thanks Flyernut, I do expect to do a little more adjusting. The clearance is pretty tight for the tools I have on hand, so I was planning on trying to run as is, and then really checking out the mechanism when I have the fingers off for replacement and the drum out. That said, I need to put together a parts order that just keeps growing... Will wait until the holiday damage to the bank account is assessed before ordering parts, just obtaining the engine was irresponsible enough. 
Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays!
TimmyD


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I would lke a 314W, maybe some day. This is just my opinion - I would not put too much work
on the whistle. No matter how good you get it working, it will sound like crap. If I get a new to me
engine and it has a whistle speaker in it I remove it and place it in a baggie for next owner. It is
normally in my way for a new tender harness and like I said it sounds horrible. For a steam whistle
I use a billboard whistle. Tom's idea of a Railsounds boxcar is a wnner. Whistle sounds great. When
you get time look for a Youtube video of a tender whistle. You will agree it sounds like a very sick cow.
Not one of Gilbert's better ideas. Have fun and Merry Christmas.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Got to agree with Mopac, but I am lazier than him. Any Gilbert engine I want to run with a built in whistle or horn gets one speaker wire unsoldered to silence it. Easy to put it back if desired. The Railsounds boxcar is a good way to go.


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## TimmyD (Dec 6, 2021)

mopac said:


> I would lke a 314W, maybe some day. This is just my opinion - I would not put too much work
> on the whistle. No matter how good you get it working, it will sound like crap. If I get a new to me
> engine and it has a whistle speaker in it I remove it and place it in a baggie for next owner. It is
> normally in my way for a new tender harness and like I said it sounds horrible. For a steam whistle
> ...


Thanks for the opinion Mopac, when I bench tested it the whistle worked intermittently, and I liked the sound... I thinkI may have different standards, and hope that I can get it working well, even if it doesn't get used much. I am more interested in the properly working antique toy than I am particular about the sound it puts out. Agreed though that if I become concerned about the authenticity of the sound, I will go with a Railsounds car. Will be setting up a substantial layout with my nieces tomorrow, if it all works well I will definitely get a few pics.
Merry Christmas!
TimmyD


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Sounds like you might have some fun tomorrow. Hey, you do what you want with that whistle.
On various parts of this forum we have a saying. And I agree with it. "Your railroad, your rules".
Each person is president of their railroad. Good luck with the whistle.
OH and have a Merry Christmas.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I put down some track tonight and ran a couple of engines I had not ran before. My E8s ran pretty
smooth. Sound is so so. My GP9 was erradict. I will need to do some work on it. It ran but sounded a little dry
on the lube. And wheels need cleaning. Seller said it was new and ran great. Those are a contradiction.
New would not have the oxidation on the wheels that this one has. It will be fine. Or maybe I should have paid 20.00 more and bought from American Models.


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## TimmyD (Dec 6, 2021)

mopac said:


> I put down some track tonight and ran a couple of engines I had not ran before. My E8s ran pretty
> smooth. Sound is so so. My GP9 was erradict. I will need to do some work on it. It ran but sounded a little dry
> on the lube. And wheels need cleaning. Seller said it was new and ran great. Those are a contradiction.
> New would not have the oxidation on the wheels that this one has. It will be fine. Or maybe I should have paid 20.00 more and bought from American Models.


Well I hope it was a very merry Christmas and that the train was fun! The 314AW only blew its whistle when stopped, but as I said earlier, I still liked the sound of it! Reverse unit needed a little tweaking, but overall a huge success! 
Merry Christmas!
TimmyD


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Nice 314W. Hope everybody enjoyed it.


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## TimmyD (Dec 6, 2021)

mopac said:


> Nice 314W. Hope everybody enjoyed it.


We have so far!


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