# Another newbie...



## mblann (Dec 2, 2014)

So, I'm with the previous post, I have tons of questions and am not sure where to get all the answers.

Tried reading some posts on the forum for beginners..but after seeing stuff like "track runs, minimum radius, different kinds of track, switches, turn-a-rounds, DCC or DC?" and much more, I'm more confused. The more I research online the more I find. Guess I need a Introduction to Model trains 101.

I'm wanting to do N Scale, I like the small detail and am limited to space.
I'm leaning towards Kato brand trains and track...but again, so many choices I'm confused. 
All the different kinds of track and such...jeez this is crazy.
My first layout will be a N scale "door" layout on a hollow core door. 

Any advice? Good reads? Or point me in the right direction?

Thanks in advance.

Mark


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## jesteck (Apr 15, 2014)

Mark, the best way to get into things is by researching the basics, but once that's done you either start building or get mired up in so many details you give up on the whole thing. Start with a decent engine (Kato's are an excellent choice, by the way, but don't go for all the bells and whistles to start out with; make it as basic as you can find.) You'll need a reasonably good transformer- maybe something like an MRC tech II. Just DC, not a DCC powerhouse control system- save the bucks until you're sure you want to stay with the hobby. You can always use the Tech II to power lighting and other accessories if you go DCC later. Buy some nickel-silver flex track and learn how to cut and fit it, as well as fastening it to your platform; you can use double- sided carpet tape to hold it down on a temporary track plan. Avoid "train sets" and sectional track as much as possible- especially track with plastic roadbed attached. That tends to lock you in to a particular manufacturer and type of track, and imposes limitations on the design of your layout that flex-track does not. Once you get the hang of using flex, you are only limited by space and your imagination. Turn radius, grades, and all that other operational stuff will become obvious and smack you upside the head in "AHA!" moments as you experiment with different ideas on temporary parts of your build. You won't need to use any special wiring tips and tricks building a simple single track oval while learning. Turnarounds, reversing loops, and all that other neat stuff come later. Flex-track manufacturer doesn't make much or any difference except in flexibility and ease of use; turnout type and manufacturer DOES. Do a LOT of research before making choices here. In my opinion, PECO and Shinohara put Atlas to shame. I prefer under-table actuators. I don't like wires on top of the platform, and I also prefer toggle switches and pushbuttons mounted on a control panel built to resemble your track plan rather than a bunch of Atlas control switches with nothing but numbers to identify what they do and where they do it.


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## mblann (Dec 2, 2014)

Thanks for all the good info. I was leaning toward flex track, but have heard some people don't like it. So I guess I'm still deciding on that. May be a silly question, but do you have to stick with the same manufacturer throughout your layout? Or can you use different track? I've read where people were using code 55 AND code 80 track in their layout. I don't get it. Anyway, I'm looking forward to this and am excited to get started. Again, thanks!


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## matt785115 (Feb 13, 2012)

there is a trick with the rail joiners to get the 2 codes to match up, i cant find the article right now, but you put the rail joiner on the c80 and solder the c55 on top of the other end of the rail joiner so the tops of the rails match. but i would stay with one code just starting out


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## jesteck (Apr 15, 2014)

Mark, that's why I'm such a big fan of flex-track. You can mix and match manufacturers easily (just watch the code number). If one manufacturer is out of stock, you aren't brought to a screeching halt- just buy someone else's. You can't do that with the sectional track with built-in roadbed, most don't interconnect so you're stuck with one manufacturer. I'd guess that most of the guys who are against flex only tried it once or twice and never learned how to work with it properly. As far as mixing codes, I'd stick with just one for your mainlines and turnouts- generally the higher profile rail. For spurs and yard tracks, especially little used ones, even the railroads used lighter guage track to save a buck where they could, and some guys try to simulate that by using a lower profile rail, and that's fine if your trains will run on it (some older cars and engines have deeper wheel flanges which can cause problems). Hint- if you go with flex track, try as much as possible to keep the sliding rail to the inside of your curves. That way you may only have one rail to cut in most cases, and fewer "spikes" to shave off in order to slip on the joiners.


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## mblann (Dec 2, 2014)

Great info!

For now, I'm going with Atlas Code 55 track (sections) since I'm new to all this.
The flex track may be in my near future though.


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## Bone1977 (Jan 17, 2014)

Code 80 for your first layout might be a better choice, just my own personal opinion.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Bone1977 said:


> Code 80 for your first layout might be a better choice, just my own personal opinion.


Yes, the code 80 is more rugged and easier to handle, but code 55 has a 'finer' appearance.


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## wsboyette (Jan 25, 2014)

A caveat regarding Code 55 track: Many older N scale locomotives and cars will not operate on the Code 55 track, as the flanges on their wheels are oversize for Code 80 (which has higher rails, and was the only track around back in the early years). So if you use Code 55, you will be limited to only later-production locomotives and cars. But Code 55 is much more true-to-scale than Code 80 track !


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## Howard1975 (Jan 6, 2014)

Remember it's a hobby, it should be fun and enjoyable, not frustrating. It's your layout, so you get to decide what to do. You don't have to do what someone else does, unless his idea works for you. Take your time with the research and planning, you don't need to rush into anything. 

You also need to decide what kind of equipment you want to run (such as diesel or steam, American or foreign trains, etc). Do you want to stay with only the newest models in the hobby shop? Or maybe you also see some nice vintage trains that were made a long time ago? N scale has been around since about 1960, so there is a lot of older locomotives, passenger and freight cars out there. For the most compatibility with everything that has been made since 1960, you will need code 80 track, unless you are willing to replace the wheels that have deep flanges. Replacing wheels is easy enough with freight and passenger, can be much harder on locomotives. 

If you stay with only the newest manufactured trains, made within the past 5-10 years for instance, you can get away with code 55 track easier.

Also, as has been mentioned, code 80 is more rugged and easier to handle. It's also cheaper. But code 55 has a finer and more realistic appearance. 

It really depends on what trains you decide to buy, and if you are willing to modify anything that has deep flanges.

Howard


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