# HO Layout options and thoughts on one.



## DCHO (Dec 3, 2013)

I have some background in DC HO scale model railroading, grew up with a model railroad in the basement since at least as long as I can remember back that was HO scale, when to my grandfather's house and what I'm pretty sure was S scale. Lots of experience using the model railroads, not as much on the building side. Moved out, live in an apartment, pretty much had given up hope of getting back into things, and then the bug bit me again. Managed to convince the other half to let me run some trains under the Christmas tree. Doing some research has given me hope that I can partake in the hobby more often before I move into a house.

Criteria were:
Must 

Be modular
Fun to use
Able to be disassembled and stored after each use
Fit into a 2nd Bedroom that is a mix of home office and guest bedroom
Wants:

Long Mainline or 2 mainlines
Area to do multiple things at once (if something is running on the mainline be able to do switching
Turntable- I think they're neat, and when I can have a larger setup it won't be so dominating a feature

With those requirements in order and in mind I came up with the attached file. Inner oval is 18" radius outer oval is 22" radius. #6 Switches between the ovals, #4s to get to the inner yards. Just over 2.5in between the track edges in the middle of the curves. This layout also leaves me the option if I decide to down the road to put a scene divider diagonally if I get into developing the scenery, and I tried to balance so that I could can make it into 2 4ft x4ft sections, which can then be stored in a closet. 

Being prototypical isn't a priority right now, while I'm tight on space. But a few buildings I could secure to the base would be nice. Starting off it would be pretty much all freight (UP, CSX and INRD are all local to me), after a summer visit to my parents house, I'd likely add Amtrak Phase IV service, but those really do seem too fragile for me to trust being shipped. All diesel at the moment. Already started the transition from hoop and loop to Kadee couplers. Going to need to pickup a wall mount display case for the engines and cars.

Base would be two sheets of the pink foam insulation boards, I'd make some supports for the middle where the seam would be and attach the rest of the layout to the corner posts of the bed, to put the layout 40-42 in off the ground, when accommodating those posts. I figure I'd probably have to line the edge with a few inches of Plexi, while I'm not thrilled about the look, I'd rather deal with that than a busted engine if something tips. I'd likely wire in blocks, start out DC (have the transformer already) and them move to DCC (Digitrax Zeypher Xtra and PR3 since this will be right next to a computer when setup) over the next year, but I am not yet sure that everything I have will upgrade smoothly, and it sounds like block wiring should help with troubleshooting electrical issues, which I figure are inevitable with the amount of in and out of storage this will see. I'm into ham radio, so I was thinking Anderson Power Poles for my quick disconnects between the sections, and have the whole set wired in 12 or 14 gauge wire into 22 gauge feeders. I'm assuming I'll also need a less severe (smaller than 15W) soldering iron.

I picked up a large selection of sectional track off of ebay for the holiday layout, so I've got some stuff to get started, I'll have to add the flex track, outer oval curves and probably end up upgrading the the switches.

Anything that I'm missing? Any fatal flaws in my plan? Any other plans that meet my requirements but might be more fun?


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## spoil9 (Dec 24, 2008)

Welcome to the forum from a fellow ham. Nice looking design you have but i didnt study it too closely. Reminds me of an old Atlas HO trackplan that i had as a kid.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

You have a nice layout design.

You might want to think about some better reinforcement
of the foam base. That would be much better supported
by a thin plywood.

Since you are starting out with DC, you'll want to isolate the
two ovals electrically, so that you can use a dual or 2 separate
power packs that would give you the capability of controlling
2 different trains. 

Each of the ovals should be wired through a DPDT switch with
the track connected to the center tabs. One power pack on
left end tabs, the other power pack on the right end. With
this circuit you can move your trains back and forth.

I would add, however, it would all be much more simple if
you were running DCC.

Don


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## DCHO (Dec 3, 2013)

Thanks for the welcome and the tips on the wiring.

I hadn't dove too much into the electrical planning yet, was waiting until I finalized what I wanted to do with the track. I've given a few other layouts some thought, but this is probably going to be pretty darn close to how it all works out. And definitely a good thought on the plywood, I had been trying to avoid plywood to keep the weight down, but the in and out of storage and probably moving once or twice before being able to rework into something larger, that extra strength will pay off.


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## timlange3 (Jan 16, 2013)

I'm a big proponent of shelf railroads, take your 4' x 8' and make it 4 1' x 8's. These 1' x 8's can be your 'modules'. Depending on the room size, two sides can go against a wall, with shelf brackets, maybe a shelf all the way around the room, with a 'module' for the door opening. Being only 1' deep, you can go over furniture such as chairs and beds and desks. Put it slightly below eye level so you don't have to bend over, even for wiring.
Narrow shelf that looks like a bridge for doors and windows. A large corner piece would hold a turntable. No long reaches!! Paint the fascia to match the wall, railroad will appear to float in the room


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## DCHO (Dec 3, 2013)

Update:
First portion of flex Track and the 22" curves are on order, should arrive next week.

Thanks to generosity on Christmas will be DCC from the get go (but I still plan on having a few isolated blocks), and I now need decoders, and to do a lot of reading.

Moved from planning for a 90' turntable to a 130', it makes this layout a little more crowded, but when I move to a place with more room I think think the 130' will work better in the long run, as radi increase and engines get longer. Also I've been looking at and finding the info on the Walthers tables, they're code 83, everything else I already have and have ordered thus far is Atlas Code 100. With the loose transition to I need to rework that which is around the table to be code 83 and make a transition section?

I understand the value of a shelf layout, in the tight space, blocking doors is not acceptable (10x12 room 3 ft on one whole length is doors), and for what I'd need to turn around I'd end up with a near 4x8 section. And shelves seem to be a much more permanent affixing to the wall than the unclamp sections pick up and transport. Also while it would be eye level for me, most other I know wouldn't see much after clearing some of the furniture. When I have the space and permanent location, to have long thin shelf sections will certainly be an option. 

Still pricing and shopping the local hardware stores for the basics to get the bench work rolling. Hoping to have the bench construction underway within the next 2-3 weeks, and track for the ovals laid by the end of Jan. Mildly dreading all the soldering to be done, but very excited at the prospect of having something that will be running smoothly. 

If I wanted to add an isolated turnout for programming track, how long should I plan for? I'm assuming about 12-15 inches just to get the loco to sit on it, but will it need running room? Not sure if I'm going to make that an integral part of the layout or make some sort of shelf or folding track area.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Your DCC program track could be only the length of
your longest loco, but you would want to check
your programming by running it back and forth some
so a longer length would be helpful.

Some layouts use an isolated spur track that is
fed by the program leads through a DPST switch
so that it can regain the main feeds when not
in use as a program track.

Don


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## DCHO (Dec 3, 2013)

*Update...*

Ok well through evaluating the possibility of doing a single 4x8 layout and what it would mean toward altering the room, decided it was ultimately better in the long run to remove the guest bed (they can take the couch now, trains more important ). So with that decision made, then If I was going to do it, I was going to do it right. 

Went with an L layout format, benchwork is pretty much done, 4 free standing non-standard modules (staging yard on lower left will be added in later, tied into a shelf on my desk with a .5-1% grade to deal with a half inch elevation change), going to be starting the phase of set the foam let it sit for 24 hours, repeat. Foam will be 3in deep to accommodate the turntable (Walthers DCC 130'), which has shipped, Have about 1/3 of the track already, all other track has been ordered minus the turnouts. Also going to need to figure out just how much track it will all be when done so I can order the appropriate quantity of roadbed. 

Going with DCC, and with some longer reaches, I think I'd like to figure out something to do the switching remotely, but I'm a bit over my head in figuring out just what I need there. The few products I've seen don't seem to accommodate anything more than about 3/4 to 1 inch of table.

Program track will either be one of the staging area track sections, or one of the rails off the turn table, with a switch to take it from programming to standard DCC, depending upon whether or not I've added JMRI control when I get to that point in the wiring. I am mildly concerned about needing to add boosters, which would delay adding the PR3.

Not sure what I want to do for industry, going to have a little park scene, a house on a hill, a small station with platform, a yard office and 9 stall roundhouse. Considering scratch building most of the buildings. Mix of steam and modern diesel, it's my layout so I'm going to set the clock based on what's on the layout and what's hidden in the staging yard. The track needs to get laid soon though, the more time I'm planning and not working on it or running the trains, the more this keeps spiraling.

Grid is 1ftx1ft


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Nice layout design. 

One suggestion. I'd make that tail track headed top right off 
of your yard a little longer by curving it. Possible to have a
place for an industry on it also.


Don


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