# Help with Lionel plastic drive gear binding problem



## Wayneac (Jan 22, 2011)

I recently purchased 2 Lionel Alaska Yukon Special GP-7 (#1804) engines on ebay, both with similar problems.

When I received the first engine, the small, upper pinion gear on one drive motor was missing, and the other motor was binding. Since the engine had other problems, it was returned.

The second engine was included in the Alaska Yukon Special set and was beautiful, except when I tested it on my test track! After traveling 2", it spit out the pinion gear from one drive motor (Bad train, BAD!) and sat and just growled at me.

I reinstalled the pinion gear only to have the naughty engine repeat unacceptable behavior in exactly the same way! (Really bad train, very bad!)

I had this same problem with a Lionel 4-4-0 from about the same era in Lionel evolution(that's evolving?).

The question is, can this problem be fixed?

I posted a similar note on the "Classic Toy Trains" forum and was told there might be a metal gear replacement option for this problem.

Turn around time for train repairs in the metro-Cincinnati area is 8-12 months.

Does anyone know where you can purchase these gears and if this is a DIY (with normal tools) repair, or is there another solution.

Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.

Frustrated with plastic engineering,
Wayne with a Lionel doorstop in Lawrenceburg, IN


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Find the engine diagam in the suplements on the Lionel Site.
That will give you parts numbers, From there you find what is interchangeable with your engine. 

I would give you more but I can't anything on your engine.

Maybe it's time to find out what else the shell fits.


I found one on e bay the model is 6-28857. It is relatively new. >2000 production.
To fix, contact Lionel, and maybe get a whole truck or wait months.

The last gp-7 in my book is 28517 a Chicago and NW, with 1518 cab number with command control.


My third try I searched gp-7 in parts. This link is for the second page. Nothing is exact so look at them or ask the service dept. It's all there. One be of the same series as yours.


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## Wayneac (Jan 22, 2011)

*Thanks T-Man*

Thanks T-Man for the info -- I'll try and follow-up after the 4th of July weekend.

I'll look at all the options and make a decision.

I REALLY APPRECIATE ALL THE WORK YOU WENT TO TO FIND THE INFO YOU PROVIDED!!! VERY NICE!

Also, the GE 44 toner in your avatar, is very interesting -- where did you get the photo.

I'm in the process of converting an old Lionel Rock Island GE "44 ton" to a USAF 80 toner and am looking for some yellow safety striping go on both ends and around the sides.

Anyway, thanks so much for the info.
Wayne


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Probably the easiest fix will be to find a power truck for your engine and install it. I see those on eBay for $20-25 pretty regularly.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The switcher is part of the Southern Pacific Railway museum in EL Campo, Ca.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Think, you don't need yellow tape. Paint it yellow and cover with strips then paint black. Remove the tape and you have yellow stripes.


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## Wayneac (Jan 22, 2011)

*Stripe suggestion*

I had originally thought about doing that, but I was afraid I couldn't get;
a.) consistant stripes in width and angle
b.) consistant paint application
c.) avoidance of a DIY appearance
So I opted for a tape or decal approach.

Still like your GE 44 ton photo.

Thanks though,
Wayne


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Not debating you, but ...

To get consistent stripes (width, angle), put down ADJACENT strips of tape, with the edges all neatly butted together. Then, remove every other strip ... the resulting remaining ones will all be evenly spaced, same angle, etc.

TJ


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## Wayneac (Jan 22, 2011)

Well,
If I don't get the tape/decals for the stripe from the decal maker, I may have to do that.
Thanks,
Wayne


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

These are in my gallery. 





























gallery link


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

You can buy about any gear you might need from Stock Drive. The next trick would be how to fasten it onto the shaft. The nylon gears were a press fit and the fit wasn't tight enough. I have a GP-7/9 I bought in 1979 which has a plastic gear which keeps coming off the shaft. It has been in the closet for about 30 years. 

BB


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## Wayneac (Jan 22, 2011)

*Epoxy????*

Have you considered epoxy?
Or perhaps a glue gun?

I figured if I can find the right replacement gear(s), I might try epoxy or even a hot glue gun -- I've had great success with various types of hot glue, plastic on metal and some metal to metal, but with no great torque involved.
I figure the key is to thoroughly clean and "rough" the metal shaft prior to either application.
That will help the epoxy adhere and make the fit tighter.

Somebody has have beaten this problem, as it seems to be common with this era GP-7.

Let me know if you have any success with any other solution -- I really want this engine to run well. Thanks for the tip on the gears -- I'll try Stock Drive.

Thanks for info,
Wayne


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## Wayneac (Jan 22, 2011)

*What about JB Weld?*

I just happened to think, I've used JB Weld in some heavy metal to metal applications and it has held amazingly well -- I don't know why I didn't think of it first, but you must have a thoroughly clean surface and you must allow a L-O-N-G curing and hardening period (24-48 hours). If I can get the metal gears, I'll try that one first.
Wayne


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## Wayneac (Jan 22, 2011)

T-man,
Those Navy GE 44/80 toners are the exact stripeing pattern I've been looking for -- nearly identical to the USAF pattern -- might have been a DOD directive.
What shocked me was that the Navy used yellow for their GEs -- the Army's were dark blue or black I think and the USAF were Air Force Blue. When I get the decals on and the stripes on mine (I hope to have that done soon), I'll post the final pics.
Thanks for posting the Navy pics -- the first yellow military switchers I've ever seen. Did they ever use Navy blue or grey?
Thanks,
Wayne


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Many years ago I was challenged with the problem of reattaching a pump impeller to its shaft. I ended up drilling holes for roll pins parallel to shaft, half of the hole in the shaft and half in the pump impeller. It worked for 20 years. 
BB


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Wayneac said:


> T-man,
> Those Navy GE 44/80 toners are the exact stripeing pattern I've been looking for -- nearly identical to the USAF pattern -- might have been a DOD directive.
> What shocked me was that the Navy used yellow for their GEs -- the Army's were dark blue or black I think and the USAF were Air Force Blue. When I get the decals on and the stripes on mine (I hope to have that done soon), I'll post the final pics.
> Thanks for posting the Navy pics -- the first yellow military switchers I've ever seen. Did they ever use Navy blue or grey?
> ...


Those pictures were taken by a railfan. To the best of my knowledge the switcher has been in service at Portsmouth Naval Shipyard for many years. I remmeber seeing it as a child at an open house many years ago.
I can say the shipyard is an industrial environment so yellow stands out more than a Navy Blue. We had a thread recently on a train junkyard in Mass. It had a PNSY Switcher there too. I think it was yellow.

From a History Book, They had three steam switchers that pulled a submarine into the Franklin Building in the 20's. Kinda Wonder where they went.

Here is the wiki link on the switcher.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

servoguy said:


> Many years ago I was challenged with the problem of reattaching a pump impeller to its shaft. I ended up drilling holes for roll pins parallel to shaft, half of the hole in the shaft and half in the pump impeller. It worked for 20 years.
> BB


I think this shaft will be a bit small for that treatment.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

T man let me down I thought he would say epoxy it.:laugh:


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Without seeing this gear the only alternative I can suggest is to find the right size rivet, jamb it on the shaft and peen onto the gear.

Theory and practice have always been two different fields.

If you need a reason to use a lathe, use a piece of brass for the shaft square the outside edges and fit into a gear.

Justifying a three figure lathe for a 25 cent gear shows a lot of determination.


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## Philip_Russell (Dec 10, 2012)

*Replace Gear*

Hey. DId you get that Loco fixed yet. I just repaired one of those last year. Picked up another with the same issue just two days ago. The trick is to replace that main plastic gear with a brass gear. Problem solved


Cheers
Phil


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The real trick is probably finding a source for the brass gear, that would have been useful information.


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## Philip_Russell (Dec 10, 2012)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> The real trick is probably finding a source for the brass gear, that would have been useful information.


YES, I will have to go through my recipts. I have the part number somewhere. I have to order another two for my loco I just aquired. I will keep ya posted


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Stockdrive has all kinds of gears and other hardware http://www.sdp-si.com/

McMaster Carr has lots of hardware including small wire brushed to clean the inside of the ends of rails.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Sure Bruce, but which specific gear should a body order?  I can point to sites, but I think the actual gear in question would be a lot more useful.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

John, I have no idea what gear is being discussed. However, you can take the gear and determine the pitch diameter and number of teeth by looking in the Stockdrive catalog. This is not difficult.


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## Jeff T (Dec 27, 2011)

I'm having the same problem with my Lionel Alaska 28857. Anyone know the part number for the gear?


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