# Problematic Locos, and other questions



## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

Hi everybody
I have a few model trains from a few years back, but haven't been run for probably 2 years. They are all dc, I have life like power-loc track and the bachmann EZ track or whatever it is called. I have a few trains, all are kind of beat up because most of them were bought used. I am having problems with running them. First I have an amtrak locomotive, It has 2 cabins, they light up one side if you are going forwards or backwards, I bought it at the New England Model Train Expo a few years ago, it worked OK then, but now it refuses to go in either direction. The motor powers on and the lights and it sounds like it is trying to move, but it doesn't. I noticed while I was trying to find the brand (It's Bachmann) that one pair of the trucks might have had like treads on the wheels, I have a picture showing it. If anyone thinks that's the problem does anyone know a low cost fix to it? Next I have a train that looks like the Thoroughbred locomotive. It is in a New Haven shell, and is old. It is missing a coupler mount and when it is running it shoots sparks all over the place. it does not say the manufacturer on there, and I bought it used so I have no clue. The last loco I am having problems with is a life like steam Pennsylvania style loco, it runs in reverse bad, but works, and it will not run forward at all. My brother bought it new, and it had this problem, sent it back for repairs, they send it back saying it was fixed and all they did was break the body, sent it back for a new one, same problem, and tried to send it back for his money back, and they said they couldn't do that. So I still have it. Does anyone else know of this problem, I know this model is really cheap and no one on this site probably uses anything lower than the Proto 2000 models from life like, but if anyone can educate me on how to fix this I would appreciate it greatly, if anyone needs a video I can post one of it running. I know I will probably be told to invest in better products, but I am 14 with no job, so money is a very hard thing to come by, and trains are not first on the list. I have some cheap rolling stock. Most of it has the fake looking life like couplers, and many are broken, some are missing the box to hold and fasten the coupler, I upgraded the ones that were broken and fixable with Kadee #5's and made a car with one of the standard couplers and one with #5's so I could pull the other cars with different loco's. I have a few passenger cars. I am wondering if there is any replacement to windows, on the cars for my New Haven train one is missing all the side windows. That is pretty much my collection and what is all wrong with it. If I didn't mention earlier it is all HO scale and DC. 
If anyone has something for sale and they think I could use it, or their old junk that they need to get rid off that I might be able to use please PM me. If I like it I might be able to buy it if it is at a good price. Thanks, and I may have more questions later.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

My goodness, how does a nice young man like you amass so many
problems at one time?

You came to the right place to get 'em under control but we're going
to need more information on each loco. A good clear pic showing
the side view and another showing the under side would be a good
start.

Now, as to the Bachmann Amtrak, are you saying that the wheels
turn but it doesn't move? If so, yes, the treads would need replacing.
You can buy check on those at:

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/contactus.php

I'd call 'em on the phone with the loco in hand.

Bachmann has more than one Amtrak loco so a pic of what
you have would also be of a big help.

We could go into various procedures to get your other
locos running but it would be best to wait til you can
post the pictures of the so we can offer specific suggestions.

But hang in there. We've all been through the kind of
frustrations you are experiencing so there's plenty of
expertise here to get you up and running.

Don


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

Thanks for the reply Don,
I uploaded some pics to the post, I have videos of the train trying to run, but I need to adjust the file size, so it will be a while. I am going to contact Bachmann about the treads, but I am assuming I need the model #, so if you recognize it at all in the pics I would appreciate your input, I am going to try to find it on their website but it is older so I am not sure how good that will go. Please tell me if you need any other info to help me out.
Thanks.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

The second pic is an Athearn locomotive. I think it is your New Haven F unit.
Not a bad engine, I have many athearns. With some work it will be a good runner 
for you. First you have got to clean those wheels. They are caked with gunk.
Gunk will not carry electricity. Next look on you tube for videos on how to take
an athearn truck (where the wheels are) apart and how to lube. You do this and
that engine will run fine.

Clean the track also.


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

Hi Mopac,
Thanks for the reply, I thought it might be because the cars were all Athearn, and I had a box for a dummy unit, but none for a powered loco. What should I use to clean the locomotives trucks with, I cleaned the track yesterday with isopropyl alcohol (70%), I figured it was good enough, as it is what I use on motherboards and phones, but I don't want to ruin the loco. Thanks,
Mat.


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## ggnlars (Aug 6, 2013)

The same cleaner would work on the wheels. 
The Life Like is A Maco Steam engine. Life Like sold them. They run with a fair amount of noise, but they usually run. In every case try to figure out how to take the shell off of the chassis. At that point you can get to the motor and see the connections. You should be able to get these to run without much help. 

For the Bachmann, the traction tires will not keep the motor from running. If they are old, the wheels won't grip as well and they will spin while the loco moves very slowly. 
It is a pancake motor. Depending on the year it was made, its electrical pick up is on the non powered truck. frequently wires from the copper vertical pick up strips will come loose and it won't run. Those strips need to be pushing on the back of the wheel surface.

With the shell off you can play around with a couple of wires from the power pack to see if the motor runs and if so where the electrical connection is lost. The voltage is low, so there is not danger.

On the Athearn engine, based on what I can see, your probably going to find that the metal strip that connect the motor to the truck tower has come loose. If so just make sure it is clipped to the motor and rides under the two truck tower brackets. 
The other issue that is a frequent problem is the motor mounts get brittle over time and will break. Th mounts hold the motor against the chassis for the other side of the electrical connection. If those are broken you will need a new set of mounts. 

I find that if the steam engine motor runs, then a proper lubrication will cure most ills. These also can take a traction tire and if it is not in place, then it may not be getting a consistant electrical contact. A broken contact will get you every time. 

Take some pix with the shells off and we can see if we can help get them running.
Larry
Check out my blog:
www.llxlocomotives.com


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

Thanks for the advice Larry, I knew about the life like steam because I bought it new, I have lubed it and it is still fussy, The motor on the Bachmann is running, so I think it is the traction preventing it from moving, I am uploading a video to youtube with the Locos on, so I will post a link in a few minutes. I will take the shells off after I am done cleaning the trucks on the new haven loco.


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

I got the video uploaded showing whats happening
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOJA9qmXHI4&feature=youtu.be
When I embed it it doesn't show


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

As recommended I cleaned the wheels on the New Haven unit, I did not dissemble the trucks and go for further cleaning, It is still sparking, I think I am going to take apart the trucks and go for further cleaning, but I am struggling taking apart the train. Can anyone help me with that? Also is there a better method on cleaning wheels than using q-tips? I am not sure if anyone knows or is interested in this but I realized that the New Haven units trucks are both powered and that that is different than all my other trains. Also on the amtrak only 1 set of wheels is powered, the other 2 on that truck are not powered.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Hi, Trainfan1 and welcome.

First, lets clear a few things up. First of all, being 14 and jobless is a pretty common condition. I'm Assistant Scoutmaster of our local Boy Scout troop, and I can safely say that none of the 14 year olds in my troop have a steady source of income. No shame there.  You also seem a lot more willing to seek and accept advice than the average 14 year old. Another point in your favor.

And finally, no, we don't all have top of the line equipment. I myself have a couple of Protos, but most of my stuff is the cheaper Mainline & Trainline stuff, with some Atlas, Bachmann, and IHC (Mehano) thrown in. There are several other folks just like yourself trying to get their hand-me-downs to run properly.

What sort of resources do you have access to? Is there a hobby shop nearby? How about a model railroading club? Do you have any funds available, or are you limited to what your parents will buy for you? Can you solder? How about modeling tools?

Mostly, though, I think your problems can be solved with some TLC and elbow grease. I too would like to see photos of the locos with the shells off, but I agree that the Athearn (NH) sparker is probably just a loose connection. On the Bachmann, the motor is obviously running, but are the wheels actually turning? That little Life Like is a bit of a stumper for me. It seems to run fine in reverse, but not forward, almost as if something is binding.

One last point. Your track is low end, steel track. As you point out, you best bet would be to chuck it and get some better, but I know that's a non-starter. It looks ok in the video, but steel track corrodes like crazy, and not only is the corrosion non-conductive, but it is magnetic and will get up into the nooks and crannies of your equipment and cause shorts. Clean your track well with the rubbing alcohol, and keep it clean, until you can afford better.

Oh yeah, you mentioned broken windows. For a couple of bucks worth of clear styrene, some jewelers adhesive, and a hobby knife and you can make and install new ones in no time.


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## ggnlars (Aug 6, 2013)

The sparking is coming from a high current draw. This is a rectangular BB motor. These have a stall current a max voltage of 2 amps or slightly more. There is something driving this motor towards stall. The engine alone at high power should be drawing between 0.4 and 0.6 amps depending on the condition of the motor. When you have the shell off, see if you can turn the fly wheels easily. They should turn with little effort with no sign of roughness. 
You should still clean the wheels. a good investment here is a Kadee Speedy wheel cleaner. You can get one on line for under $20. 

I've seen loco's act like the steam engine. I want to see if the motor acts the same when you feed power directly to it.

The Bachmann looks like a contact problem of some sort. If you can get the shell off, you can better diagnose where the issue is.  
Good luck,
Larry


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## michael cuneo (Sep 5, 2013)

Hello and welcome to the site. I live in Ma too pm me if were close I can help you
Mike


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

Hi CTValleyRR,
I do have a hobby shop nearby but the people there are not very helpful, especially to teenagers, and everything in there is an arm and a leg for stuff I can buy online for half the price. The last time I went in there they told me to get out, when I was younger there was a different hobby shop that helped me out when I was younger, but it burnt down and they didn't rebuild. There is a model railroad club nearby. I have some funds, my parents won't buy anything for me, I do make some money by repairing peoples computers but it is not substantial, and some days I could make $100 then not get any customers for months. I can solder, I don't really have any modeling tools. I am going to the New England Model Train Expo next weekend and I know some people there that I have bought trains from in the past that can give me advice. I am working on taking off the shells now, I will post pics as soon as I am done.


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

I clean my locomotive wheels regularly with this little baby from Kadee, and it works like a charm...no need to dis-assemble anything.....

Kadee's driver cleaner is easy to use and efficient. Just hook the power leads to a 12 volt DC source and touch the brushes against the driving wheels of your locomotive.


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## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

Welcome...:thumbsup:

http://www.horailroading.net/pages/features/solutions/athearn-tuneup.php

http://rrdepot.com/article/2010/fine-tuning-athearn-blue-box-locomotives.html/

I don't care for the Kadee wheel cleaner myself as I find it is limited to wheels that have power pickup and can spin on their own. I use a Q-Tip and rubbing alcohol and carefully scrub each wheel by hand...much more thorough and not too tedious.


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

True, I am lucky that all my locos have all wheel power pick-up.....


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## ggnlars (Aug 6, 2013)

The Athearn engine should be a very good engine for all most any thing you might want to do. It can be used with DCC. It is a little noisy to use with sound. It has sufficient power to pull a reasonable train. The modern models are so focused on sound that they are not good pullers. So getting it running properly and knowing how to maintain it will serve you well.


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

shaygetz That is what I just did, all my wheels are not powered so I guess I am stuck with that method. For everyone asking for pictures with the shell off they are attached. I got the steam engine running so I guess everyone who helped out has more expertise than the Walthers service department. As for the other 2 they are still suffering from the same problem. I have videos of them that I will try and post to youtube later.


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

ggnlars I did not see your post before I replied. I am wondering if you know where I could get a new shell and coupler mount for the Athearn, they are both damaged.


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

Your YouTube links in the above post do not work -- at least for me. I get a "You can not edit this video" error message.


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

MtRR75 said:


> Your YouTube links in the above post do not work -- at least for me. I get a "You can not edit this video" error message.


Sorry, I copied the links right from my dashboard on youtube and didnt notice they went to the edit page.
Heres the new links
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LUeoMoH43Ow
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juBYA8UUMq4


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## ggnlars (Aug 6, 2013)

I'll PM some info in the AM. 
The video shows the Bachmann motor runs when power is directly applied. I would pop the truck bottom off and grease the gears and oil the bearings- the hole you can see on either side of the motor. 

Reassemble. Then, I would run it with the clips connected for a few minutes. Set the throttle at 60% power or half way between start up and full speed. Then try it on the track again. If it is still running rough or hardly at all, then the pickup connection is suspect. You can test this by clipping your power pack wires to one of the wheels on either side of the non powered truck. If it is still rough, then remove one of the power pack wires. With this wire touch the motor terminal that the engine wire from that side is connected. If the roughness is gone or reduces, you know that there is a problem on that side. I would repeat using the opposite side. This should tell you where source of the problem is. The non powered truck bottom is fairly easy to pop off. A broken connection would not fire the motor at all. So you probably have dirty contact points. These should be cleaned like you would with your computers. That should take care of the problem. 
Larry


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Trainfan1 said:


> Hi CTValleyRR,
> I do have a hobby shop nearby but the people there are not very helpful, especially to teenagers, and everything in there is an arm and a leg for stuff I can buy online for half the price. The last time I went in there they told me to get out, when I was younger there was a different hobby shop that helped me out when I was younger, but it burnt down and they didn't rebuild. There is a model railroad club nearby. I have some funds, my parents won't buy anything for me, I do make some money by repairing peoples computers but it is not substantial, and some days I could make $100 then not get any customers for months. I can solder, I don't really have any modeling tools. I am going to the New England Model Train Expo next weekend and I know some people there that I have bought trains from in the past that can give me advice. I am working on taking off the shells now, I will post pics as soon as I am done.


That's unfortunate, but it does illustrate why many hobby shops can't compete with the internet. Their competitive advantage, to offset higher prices, is their ability to provide service. If they can't or won't, they're in trouble. I guess the owner of that store figures he'll be retired before you have enough disposable income for him to worry about losing you as a customer. The thing about on-line is that shipping fees add up, especially for small orders. 

Your situation complicates things a little, but not something we can't work with. I'm having trouble seeing enough detail in your photos to provide any suggestions beyond what others have given you, but it sounds like you're in good hands. When you're ready to tackle broken parts and couplers, I'll be around.

I wouldn't get too down on the Walthers service department. Contrary popular belief, corporations are not soulless entities out to rip you off and take your money, but groups of people who are mostly trying to do the right thing. Most likely, they put it on their test bench and it ran fine, so they sent it back. They can't always simulate your local conditions. This is why having some local folks who know how to repair locos is very helpful.


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

I'm sorry about the quality of the photos, my camera is 20 megapixels so the image filesize needs to be reduced to put on the forums, so I will post them onto an external site if it helps. On the Bachmann the motor is on the trucks so I don't know how to take them off and it is to old and unpopular to find any guides on it, so if anyone can advise me I would appreciate it.


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## ggnlars (Aug 6, 2013)

The trucks do not come off easily. The truck bottoms will pop off. If you look at the bottom of the truck towards the center of the engine, you will see a hole in the truck bottom cover and a tab in the parts under it, With a small flat head screw driver, you can gently pop the cover off the tab. Both truck covers work the same way, the non powered is a little more delicate.


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

I put the pictures in zip files now instead of adding them to an external site. Ggnlars, I do not see what you are talking about on the bottom of the trucks. I can take better pics and see if that helps, Bachmann did make 2 models of these, I have the older one, there is no support for it on their website, I am going to contact the service department, but I haven't found anything on the old version so far.


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

Trainfan1 said:


> I'm sorry about the quality of the photos, my camera is 20 megapixels so the image filesize needs to be reduced to put on the forums.


Take the picture from a medium distance away, so that what you want is only about 1/4 (or less) of the area. Then crop the photo down to size. If you find that the cropped photo is still a little blurry, you might have to use a tripod to get a sharp picture.


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

Thanks MTRR75, I will try and get some new ones again. When I was messing around with the Athearn (New Haven) unit I found out the plastic pieces on the trucks were removable, which would have made cleaning a lot easier, I am wondering if anyone thinks I could do the same on the Bachmann (Amtrak), and try putting on tiny elastic bands for makeshift traction tires? Thanks.
Also are Bachmann Spectrum Locomotives any good, especially if I can get a used one for under 50? Thanks.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Guys

Don't you think that the problem is poor power pickup through
the wheels. That pausing at the same time the light flashes
tells me that.

There are three points that can cause this.

1. Dirty track, and in your pics I seem to be seeing some dark
spots on the track. 

2. Dirty loco power pickup wheels, clean as others have
suggested.

3. A broken wire from a wiper to motor.
As one post mentioned, use your volt/ohm meter
set on ohms and check that each wheel is conducting to the other
wheels on the same side. You should be able to see the, usually,
brass wipers that rub against the back of each wheel. (hoping that
power pick up is by both trucks). 


Don


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

ggnlars said:


> The trucks do not come off easily. The truck bottoms will pop off. If you look at the bottom of the truck towards the center of the engine, you will see a hole in the truck bottom cover and a tab in the parts under it, With a small flat head screw driver, you can gently pop the cover off the tab. Both truck covers work the same way, the non powered is a little more delicate.


I was wrong about the tabs, I did find them, I took off the truck

Heres some pictures of the motor. There is a loose and easily movie connection. There was a spring hanging out of one of the connections that I removed. It looks like it is a coupler spring.


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

Sorry Don I did not see your reply, I do not think it is dirty anything, as it has the same problems when the power supply is direct to the motor. I think if that happens when power is fed direct to the motor than it also rules out faulty wiring.
If you guys think I'm better off spending $25 bucks for Bachmann service just tell me.
After continued testing I am fairly certain the old pancake motor is shot. I do like the locomotive though and I don't want to trash it or make it into a dummy because it is in a set with its own cars, so unless I could get some powered trucks or something to put in the cars I would like to see if I could use a different motor in the engine if it isn't to hard. It has been 30 years or so since the loco was manufactured and I don't have a proof of purchase from Bachmann so I don't know if they would even honor the warranty.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I see what Don is talking about. The headlight flickered as you were trying to get it to move on the tracks. I did not see the same flickering when you applied power directly to the motor. That says to me that there is something interfering with power transfer somewhere. I would run through Don's checklist, because that usually solves the problem. 

Your track is low quality steel track. Steel rusts, and not only is that rust non-conductive, but it gets on your wheels and gears as well. If you have a mild abrasive or some metal polish around, try cleaning your track with that, and hit the wheels again. It may just be the lighting (or the traction tires), but it looks like the wheels and flanges are discolored, which would certainly cause problems. The copper strips or brushes that pick up power from the wheels need to be pristine as well.

"I don't think it's dirty" are famous last words when locos perform poorly.


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## ggnlars (Aug 6, 2013)

The the silver strips on the side of the motor are the brush holder/ connector. There should be small springs under each of these. They should be tight in place. No springs, no run.

The motor manufacturer uses a red paint like subset sane to insure they stay in place. The screw at the top is the primary clamp, but vibration will loosen them and there goes the springs. Hopefully you have the one that was missing the pix. 

The place to remove the truck bottoms is on the left side of the truck. Take a pix of the inside surface (back) of each truck and I will indicate where it is.

Larry


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## ggnlars (Aug 6, 2013)

To make this a dummy, you need to get the truck bottom off. You can remove the idler gears and the wheels will roll freely. Then if you cut one of the motor connections leaving the light wire connected to the wire. Wrap it with electrical tape and you have a lighted dummy.
Larry


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

One of the springs is gone, any chance you can purchase a replacement anywhere?

UPDATE: I found the spring and am trying to put it back in.


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

Larry,
Here are the pics for the powered truck I have not taken the non powered one off yet. I am not sure which way the locomotive is supposed to face so I just took pics of both sides.
CTValleyRR
I cleaned the wheels and the track again. Some of the stuff has been on the wheels long enough that there is some discoloration. The brushes are fine now too, I might dissemble the power pickup truck tomorrow if I can get the powered one working fine off the track. Thanks


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## ggnlars (Aug 6, 2013)

I can't get the zip file pix on my IPad. I will look at them later. If your still having problems getting the spring in place, use a piece of scotch tape to hold it in place while your getting the cover to stay put. Then pull the tape out with a pair of tweezers.
Larry


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

Larry I got the spring in place, I put the pictures on google drive.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B33hs_ifnYqONHZSUllNMjVQQzQ/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B33hs_ifnYqOVVJEYm8tbTlyNHM/view?usp=sharing


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

We've bounced around 3 different locos and my head is spinning.

Let's stick with the Amtrak.

I thought I saw one of your earlier pics that showed the same
motor unit on both the front and the back trucks. Is that correct?

Now, if one truck is does not have a motor, does it have the
wipers against the wheels to pick up power?

Have you checked these for good contact? The wipers may
need adjusting to make good contact with the wheel.

Are there also wipers on the motored truck? Are these
making solid contact against the back of the wheels?

Here is my way of checking for good power pickup through
the wheels. Set a volt/ohmeter to ohms.
Put one probe on the front left wheel. Now touch each wheel
on the left side of both trucks. You should get a reading
for each wheel. If not there is no current being supplied
by that wheel.

Then do the same with the right front wheel. (Note if the
front truck does not pick up current by design then put probe
on front left wheel of the truck that does pick up power.)

If you don't have a volt/ohmeter do you can use a 12 volt 
auto tail light
bulb. You can get the same results by connecting on wire
from the bulb to your power pack track current and set the
speed to be about 3/4. Connect the other wire from the
power pack to the left front wheel. Then touch the wire
from the bulb to each left wheel. If it lights you have contact.
Repeat on right side.

That motor looks as if it may not use a worm gear (spiral)
to drive the gear train in the truck.
Can you physically turn the powered truck wheels by hand? If you
do, can you see the armature of the motor turn when you
remove the spring and brush and turn the wheels by hand? 
If so, you can clean the
surface of the armature which can help the motor get full
power from the track.

A DC loco is a very simple electrical device. We are just
not getting a good clean current to the motor brushes.
There is some dirt or bad electrical contact that is
causing the problem.

Don


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

Don,
I will check everything you said when I get home. I don't think there is a worm gear. You can turn the drive wheels by hand. I think the old pancake motor on it may have reached the end of its life, I say that because even with direct motor connectivity the train wheels refuse to move the train more than a few inches. If it is burnt out I doubt we can get it running again. I have not taken off the power receiving truck yet so I will check your theory later. Thanks.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

You may be right, but there are still things to check.
I just don't like to give up easily. And just think of
what a learning experience this is for all of us.

You should be able to see, with a bright light, the
condition of the commutator when you look into
the brush holders after removing the brushes.

It may have burn marks on it and scoring. There also
may be a groove worn in by the brushes. But, cleaning
it just might give it some of it's old gusto. I'm thinking
you might be able to use a Q-tip with alcohol that would
fit into the brush holders as you turn the wheels by hand.
I'm assuming
that this loco was not used in a continuously running
display. That would have worn that motor.

Are the brushes badly worn? If so, It's possible they
are not making good contact with the commutator.
Do the springs seem to be able to put pressure on
the brushes? They would want to 'push back' when
you insert them into the holder with the brush in it.

Don


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

Don, the brushes and springs are in good condition. After reading up on pancake motors I am assumisg it was a display train before it was in my posession because they burn out very fast. I will get to cleaning as soon as Larry can advise me about the trucks.


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## ggnlars (Aug 6, 2013)

Sorry, I've been off line most of the day.
The truck configuration is shown here:
http://hoseeker.net/assemblyexplosionbachmann/bachmannsd402diagram1990.jpg
This is not your engine, but the truck is the same. 
You can see the verticle flap on both ends of the truck bottom. The one on the end with out the coupler is the one you take off first. Slip a small screw driver under the flap and gently pry it off. Best to start from one side and work your way to the middle. It goes back on the same way it comes off. 

Actually pan cake motors do not burn out that easily. However they are usually in train sets that are given as "toys" and they get a lot of abuse and spend a lot of time running on carpet, The fibers can be a killer. 

The power truck wheels should not turn freely. On of the biggest problems that this type Bachmann drive has is the idler gears crack. When they are broken, then it no longer is mechanically connected to the motor. It is funny, Life Like pancake idler gears hardly ever break. Bachmann gears are looking for a place to break. 

Did this engine ever run as a train for you? The loose brush cover is also a big problem. They both need to be in place and snug to the motor, and not move with the vibration. If they appear to be loose at all, that is a problem. It will create an erratic running motor. 

Get the truck bottom off and see if ther are idler gears. Without those we don't have a drive anyway.

Larry
check out my blog: www,llxlocomotives.com


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

Bingo. There are multiple broken gears in the motor and also the one on the drive wheel is not glued on so it does not move with the wheels. I can see 2 broken gears and there are most likely more. Any recommendations?


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## ggnlars (Aug 6, 2013)

To make this engine run, you need a new power truck. Bachmann C-C trucks with pancake motors tend to be hard to find. I do not think they were produced very long. And when you do, the gears are probably broken. For now, remove the connection to one of the motor connections. Keep the light wire connected to this wire. Wrap it with electrical tape. You will have a dandy lighted dummy. 
I would keep my eyes peeled on e-bay and at train shows for a replacement drive.
Sorry the news isn't better.
Larry


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## Howard1975 (Jan 6, 2014)

Trainfan1, that is a shame. With the broken gears in your Bachmann, you will need to replace the power truck. I doubt you can pick up just the gears for a Bachmann that old. So as Larry (ggnlars) has suggested, just make it a dummy for now, until you are able to find another power truck. In your busted power truck, remove enough of the idler gears, so the wheels will turn freely when it's rolling on the track. And remove the wire to the motor, so it's not trying to spin. You can keep the wires to the lights, if you desire.

That is what I do, when I have a busted motor, and don't want to fix or replace it. I make the engine a dummy.

Howard


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

Does anyone think I could possibly use a 3d printer for new gears and be able to install them. I don't think I am going to find a new motor for that anytime soon. I was expecting this so it's no big deal, I might just look into purchasing the new version with dcc.


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## Howard1975 (Jan 6, 2014)

It might be possible to use a 3d printer to make new gears, but I don't know for sure. I know people have made all kinds of things with those 3d printers, including train car bodies, even plastic wheels, etc. Plus all kinds of other things, not related to model trains. 

So yes it's possible, but I don't know how strong or accurate the gears would be. I have never done anything with a 3d printer, so I have no experience. 

Howard


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Assuming you could find the exact specifications for the broken gear, you could print a new one, but you'd need a high quality printer. Most home models do not print fine enough detail to work. Also, unless you can print in high grade acetyl plastic, it is unlikely to be strong enough. We have a printer at work that could handle the job, but it cost $56k.


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

Sorry I've been busy so I haven't replied in a while. I think I probably can print the gears fine enough that they would work, as long as I can design the gear right. I am going to a model train show over the weekend, any recommendations on what I should buy?


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Buy a good replacement locomotive. But shop for value. Offer less
than the asking price. Most of the train show vendors will
negotiate. I got an older Bachmann spectrum for 10.00 a week
ago, but must will be more. Many for 25 and up. Most train shows have
special test tracks. So take any loco that you find interesting
to the test track and run it before you buy. See that it is quiet and is smooth
at slow speeds. 

You can usually expect to see thousands of used rail cars. Freight
cars will sell for 3.00 up. Those with Kadee couplers usually go for
5.00 to 10.00. 

As you walk along, look under the tables as well as on top. Those
things are for sale also.

You will also see a lot of used track. Try to replace that steel
track with nickel/silver. Do not buy brass track. You can also
expect to find values in turnouts, again, no brass.

Take Cash. Most vendors do not take credit cards.

There usually are several large operating layouts and most will be using
DCC. They are owned by model railroad clubs. Feel free to
ask those operating the layout any questions you have. You
might find a club in your town and you could get an invitation to
join their club.

Don


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## Howard1975 (Jan 6, 2014)

DonR said:


> Buy a good replacement locomotive. But shop for value. Offer less
> than the asking price. Most of the train show vendors will
> negotiate. I got an older Bachmann spectrum for 10.00 a week
> ago, but must will be more. Many for 25 and up. Most train shows have
> ...


I second Don's advice. Make sure you take any locomotive you are interested in, and test run it before you buy it. And make sure it's complete, without missing parts. Same with any freight or passenger cars, make sure they have all parts. And if you get any track, you will want to look for nickle silver. It does not matter if it's used track, as long as it's in good clean condition, without broken "spikes". 

Howard


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

Thanks guys. In the past 4 or five years I have went I have never saw a test track available for public use, some sellers had them and also the sell your used trains area had one too but other than that most don't, but I have never had someone sell me a bad loco. Do you recommend that I use a track/roadbed combination like Bachman ez track or skip to flex track?


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## gator do 65 (Jan 27, 2014)

Do yourself a favor, go straight to the flex track! In the long run it's cheaper and gives far more options then any sectional track can!


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## Howard1975 (Jan 6, 2014)

Both types of tracks have their pros and cons. The integrated roadbed type are easier to use with a temporary layout, or a layout you want to change often. But when you are building a permanent layout, it's cheaper to go with flextrack. Plus you have more choices for curve radius in your curves using flex, compared to using the rigid curves with something like Bachmann EZ track. 

Another plus with flextrack, you have fewer track joints, fewer rail joiners. 

And another plus with flextrack, you have more choices in switches and other special tracks. With flextrack, you are not limited to just Bachmann EX track switches. You can use switches from a variety of brands, such as Atlas, Peco, Micro Engineering, Walthers, etc. 

Bachmann only makes a small selection of switches or special tracks in their EZ lineup. 

But ultimately, it's your choice. What do YOU want to use?


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

I didn't go to the show today, but I am going tommorow. I am going to be looking for oil, athearn coupler covers, new couplers, track and track connectors, and possibly new locos and rolling stock. Any other things I should be looking for?


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## Howard1975 (Jan 6, 2014)

Those are all good things to be looking for. Another thing you might want to look for, depending on your budget, is the power pack. I have no idea what kind of power pack you have. But assuming it's a small starter set power pack, it's usually not very strong. 

You can usually pick up an used MRC Tech 2 power pack for a good price. It's only a suggestion, because I don't know what you have now.


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

Currently I have 2 life like starter power packs and also a bachmann power pack. I think the bachmann is their ez Control system.


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

I spent a few hours at the train show earlier, and I was not impressed. I searched for used locomotives and rolling stock and I found a bunch of crap. Most used railcars were broken, and 90% of the sub $50 locomotives were junk from toy train sets. The only nickel silver track I saw was bachmann easy track, and it was to expensive for me. Some guy tried to sell me flex track but some of the ties were broken and it was brass. I did find oil, but it was not the type I was recommended, and it was more expensive, so I am probably going to be looking online for that. I did not find anything useful enough to actually purchase it. The layouts by the local model railroad clubs were not superb. I did see some cool demonstrations for new products, but most were trashy. The people running the show are always very nice, but many people did not know what they were doing, My little brother went and did a build-a-car clinic and they did not know what they were doing, they could not help him, and his kit was missing parts, the people running it seemed to be going through the boxes and replacing parts, then giving other people incomplete kits. It was poorly ran compared to years past. I talked to numerous clubs, they are nice but they don't want anything to do with teenagers, ever. Some would not even listen to me when I would tell them that a car was derailing. So overall the visit was not productive. I am going to start looking online now for anything I need, I do have access to ebay so if anyone sees a good auction or is selling something that i could use on there give me a shout.I might be starting a permanent layout after Christmas, so I would appreciate recommendations, I do not know how big it will be yet. I might be looking into DCC if I can get my hands on some basic equipment in my price range. If there is anyone with experience on scenery and decals please help me out with what kits, groundcover, etc that I should look into purchasing, I am trying to make a more modern looking layout.


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## Howard1975 (Jan 6, 2014)

That is a shame, you could not get anything.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Local club shows are like that, sometimes. Don't be too critical of the organizers, though, until you have tried to do something similar on your own. They usually have to rent the venue, then they have to make money, which they do by entry fees and renting table space. Sometimes, it becomes an exercise in renting tables to anyone who will pay for them, never mind the quality. Sometimes you promise a clinic, and the person who's supposed to do it pulls out unexpectedly, and you have to do what you can. So, one bad show = bad year; several bad ones in a row is a sign of bad management.

I will say one thing, though. If you want bargains and great finds, you'd better be there when the doors open on the first day. The later you go, the more likely someone else has snapped them up.

And if it's a really great show you want, try the Amherst Model Railway Show at thr Big E in Springfield in late January. Not everything is a bargain, but quality and quantity is there in abundance.


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

CTValleyRR said:


> And if it's a really great show you want, try the Amherst Model Railway Show at thr Big E in Springfield in late January. Not everything is a bargain, but quality and quantity is there in abundance.


I might be going to it but it is a hour and a half from my house so I am not sure yet.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Trainfan1 said:


> I might be going to it but it is a hour and a half from my house so I am not sure yet.


I didn't think it was possible for ANYTHING in MA to be an hour and a half from Springfield. unless you count traffic, then Chickopee is an hour and a half away!


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## Trainfan1 (Nov 29, 2014)

CTValleyRR said:


> I didn't think it was possible for ANYTHING in MA to be an hour and a half from Springfield. unless you count traffic, then Chickopee is an hour and a half away!


Haha, I am about an hour and 15 away without traffic but I have never been able to get anywhere near Springfield without 15 minutes of traffic, over the summer it took me 3 hours to get to Agawam.


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