# 31 yrs old lookin to get into ho trains



## dustinb (Sep 20, 2011)

Hey guys im new to the train scene lookin for a nice train set to get started lookin to do a 4x8 layout and would like to spend around $150 any help and where to buy would be good thank...


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Are you SURE a 4x8 is what you want to do? I know that most people start there because it's so easy, but depending on the space you have available for the layout, there may be better ways to do it that will give you just as much operating ability and take up less room.

What kind of space are you working with? A 4x8 operated from the outside edges needs about 8x12 feet to be convenient for use (2 ft aisle around whole layout.) If any edges are against a wall, you really run into problems with reach-over, etc.


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## dustinb (Sep 20, 2011)

*trains*

I will be able to walk around the layout possibly will be bigger then 4x8. Lookin at maybe L shape layout...


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Draw out the space you have to work with. Try to limit reach-in to <30". 

Are you interested in continuous running (demonstration) or point to point (switching or division point layout)

I ask this as when I built my first layout (11x13) I built a variation of the large table type layout. I spent close to $1500 on the layout table, etc. and ended up with something that got boring/monotonous pretty quick. I took a step back, did some research on types of layouts people have built/designing for operations (tons of layout books/magazines out there.) and designed a point to point that can be expanded later. Take a look at the NEW LAYOUT link in my signature....A train table can be any shape you want to fit your space. It's pretty easy to portal between closets, etc to gain valuable extra space/staging/storage areas. Think outside the square (box?)

The $150 is just for the engine and a few cars, correct (not including price of layout?)


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## dustinb (Sep 20, 2011)

*trains*

I was lookin at an engine and cars and some track to get started basically and build off that i was curious on what to buy?


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Lots of options out there. Do you want sound functions, ability to run multiple trains, etc. You'll want to look at DCC control which will cost a bit more money, but adds a lot to the operations.

You can always start DC power and go DCC later if you wire your layout properly. (That's what I'm currently doing.)

Track sets (engine/cars/track) typically come with EZ-track (built in plastic roadbed.) I don't personally care for that style track (noisy, limited selection of turn-out sizes, etc) but others do just fine with it.


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## dustinb (Sep 20, 2011)

*train*

I want to go dcc eventually and i would like a kit that doesnt have the eztrack? where do you buy most of your stuff?


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

I knew I wanted a big layout so I bought 300 ft of flextrack for $279 and a few boxes of cork roadbed (25 pcs for $30 I think) at www.trainworldonline.com

I haven't found a better price than that yet..

If you want flexibility in engines/cars, etc go with Code100 Nickel Silver flextrack. Just stick with the Code100 stuff on turnouts, etc (0.100 high rail) You can buy this same stuff by the piece, but it costs more.

Draw out a basic plan that you like on graph paper in scale. (1 box=6 inches) Then using a compass (or an engineering scale, like a compass but with 2 points rather than a point and a lead.) and set it at 1 ft. Go around the tracks and measure off how many feet of track you need. Turnouts take up anywhere from 8-14" of length depending on the size. #4 turnouts are fairly tight, #6 & #8 get gradually less steep in the angle of the diverging rails.


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## optronomega (Aug 17, 2011)

I went with a 4ftx7ft layout and it's really hard to reach across. Wish i would have went with a dogbone shaped or something. Space was an issue and i'm able to move the table away from the wall to work on the back side. Cost can add up though. Since starting this a few months ago I've probably spent well over a grand between, layout, trains/rolling stock. Oh and I'm 29 so glad to see another around my age getting into model trains. Most of the people in the club i visit are 45+.


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

I'm only 38 and I know there are a couple on here around my age, but definitely some older (heck, there are even a couple teenagers on here.)


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## optronomega (Aug 17, 2011)

well on the local scene I've just gotten used to being the youngin.


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Me too. The only other Model RR people I know locally are my father's friends in his train club and they are all 60+


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## igmuska (Nov 21, 2009)

If you have at least 8'X9', you might consider:
The Heart Of Georgia Track Plan 

Trackplan

This track plan improves upon the standard(?) 4'X8' plywood sheet by cutting it in certain places to stretch that golden sheet

Benchwork


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## dustinb (Sep 20, 2011)

*train*

Im doing a 4x10 layout and was needing to know what is a good train set to buy?


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Personally, I like buying engines/cars separate so that I can get exactly what I want.

It really depends on what you want out of your layout. Do you want to strive for a realistic train look, or toy trains?


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## dustinb (Sep 20, 2011)

*Trains*

I want realistic trains. What are some good brands? Athern good?


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Athearn Genesis, Proto1000/2000, Broadway Limited, Kato are all real nice engines. 

DC or DCC?


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## dustinb (Sep 20, 2011)

*Trains*

dc for now dont know all about dcc maybe add that later.... My local hobby shop is trying to sell me an athern rtr kits for trains and ez loc track are them any good?


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Athearn RTR are good engines, they just lack the fine details of the Genesis line (but to my knowledge have the same drivetrain.

I've never been a fan of the EZ-track - although others seem to like it. You are limited on the availability of size of curves/turnouts with any of the EZ-track systems.


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## dustinb (Sep 20, 2011)

*Trains*

Will the Gensis trains work with the rtr? I have heard you can add atlas track to the ez loc and do the cork bed from what i learned that at the hobby shop i dunno its all new to me....


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Most HO stuff is interchangeable (engines/cars) so long as they are equipped with compatible couplers (I recommend knuckle couplers - Kadee makes the best IMO) Older engines/cars had hook/horn couplers.

Personally I'd avoid the EZ-track. 

I've seen tons of people complaining about derailments in turnouts, etc. My kids have some EZ-track so that they can run their Thomas stuff on the floor, that's about all I'd use it for (easy oval layout.) I've seen people build whole layouts around it, but for the most part they lament after the fact about how they should have just went flextrack/cork roadbed. The trains will be pretty noisey running on that plastic roadbed without something underneath it to dampen the sound.

WIth flextrack on cork my trains run nearly silent allowing me to listen to the sounds of the engine rather than the track (2 of my engines currently are sound equipped.)


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## igmuska (Nov 21, 2009)

If it were up to me, given the choice between an Atlas train set and an Athearn set, I'd definitely choose the Atlas set over the Athearn. My reason is both sets have excellent GP38-2 locomotives except that the Athearn's headlight is very bright being that it is similar to a flashlight bulb while the Atlas engine will be very realistic in that the bulbs don't like up the entire cab as does the Athearn.


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

I forgot Atlas - I'd definitely recommend anything from their Silver or Gold series.


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## dustinb (Sep 20, 2011)

*Trains*

Is thier like kits where i can get just track? Instead of buyin pieces seperately? So is the altas track the best?


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Best to draw up a plan of what you want. Go Code100 track for the most flexibility in rolling stock. The 0.100 tall rail allows you to run all available engines/cars - Code83 (0.083 tall rail) won't work with some cars.

You can buy the track by the piece or you can get it in bulk.

Check www.trainworldonline.com for the best track prices I've found (they also sell the cork roadbed at a good price.) I use the Atlas flextrack and have never had a problem.


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## igmuska (Nov 21, 2009)

dustinb said:


> Is thier like kits where i can get just track? Instead of buyin pieces seperately? So is the altas track the best?


Now that is the Atlas set's downside. Their track is very realistic but alas is made of steel unlike the Athearn set which is nickel silver. Atlas track is much cheaper but doesn't have as much choices in terms of having the plastic road bed. The Athearn (Bachmann) EZ track doesn't get as dirty as does the Atlas track, meaning with Atlas you get to clean the track often while with the Bachmann EZ track, you'd rarely clean them. Both oxidize but the Atlas oxidation inhibits electrical conductivity; the Bachmann EZ track oxidation conducts electricity, meaning less maintenance.


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## optronomega (Aug 17, 2011)

code 83 is the most prototypical. That's what i went with, rarely have any issues. I run all metal wheels with Kadee couplers though.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

igmuska,
I'm sorry but I think I'm going to disagree with you on Atlas track being steel! I don't think they even bother making steel railed track anymore, I could be wrong though!
All of the atlas track that I have is Nickel Silver and I have thousands of feet of it! It's no harder to keep clean than any other brands!
Yes avoid any of the "EZ track" or instant roadbed track if your going to expand or be in it for the long haul!


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

All of my Atlas flextrack is nickel silver. Most is over 2 years old with no oxidation issues.


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## optronomega (Aug 17, 2011)

same here, all atlas nickel silver.


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## igmuska (Nov 21, 2009)

I stand corrected, Atlas code 83 is nickel silver, which in this case of this fellow wanting a recommendation on the train set, I say go with the Atlas set...

As for the other issue, I do have oxidation issues but I feel it is more with the humidity than anything else.

Long ago, I used bright boys to clean my track; now I would never do that. Instead I use a piece of Masonite, 91% alcohol and Goo Gone. I also read about gleaming but never went all the way through to applying the chrome polish, ending at shining my track with a stainless steel spoon. Today I used the chrome polish (Mothers) reluctantly, thinking that it would leave some residue; I discovered otherwise after applying some light elbow grease---not only is my track extremely shiny, shinier than when I first bought it, it is not slippery...the downside is the chrome polish (Mothers) stinks


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

If you decide to build a layout and use some type of EZ track system you should know a few things first. 

1. They are not compatible with other manufacturers.
2. Greater expense.
3. Limited in the designs you can make with them.

Now if you still want to use something like this then research the brand you are buying first. IMHO the KATO system is the best. They are also the most expensive. Life Like is the worst and Bachmann falls in the OK category.

Now if you take that same amount of time researching how to build with flex track and cork road bed you will gain infinate possibilities in layout design, different manufacturers will work together so long as the code is the same. You will more than likely also have a much nicer layout.

Now for the engines and rolling stock, you need to first ask yourself what do you want? There are 5 main generations of Locomtives.

Infancy: Early 1800's to about 1830's These are the generation where locomotives were being invented. They usually pulled a couple of wagons and that was about it.

Early Steam: Basically 1830-1900(ish) These engines used simple valving and large drivers. Smaller engines with the classic large stack and big pointy cow catcher. They burned wood to start with and later coal.

Late Steam 1900-1950's These are the engines most of us are used to seeing. Small stacks, no cow catchers, large fireboxes, compound valving.

Early Diesel. 1930's till 1960's THese are the first generation engines, rounded streamlined bodies, engines like F units and E's were in this group. There were alot of manufacturers in this era like Fairbanks Moorse, Alco, EMD and Baldwin for starters.

Modern Diesel: Anything from the late 1960's to today. Now these are what is on the rails today. mainly just EMD and GE are what you are going to find, these are engines like SD40-2 GP38-2, U30, Dash 9 and so on.

Now what era do you want to model?

Massey


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## dustinb (Sep 20, 2011)

*Trains*

modern engines im gona go with the cork bed and flex track im thinkin....


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

Good call on both!! I model modern day too. I have a few steam engines but they only come out for X-mas or for a Modular show. I do like to run them every now and again on my layout but just for railfanning.

Massey


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## dustinb (Sep 20, 2011)

*tracks*

So what code of track to go with?


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Code100 for the most flexibility (will reliably run anything)


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

I agree with sstlaure, I have all 100 track. It is the most versatile and there isn't anything that won't run on it.


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

The only real reason to go down to Code83 or Code70 would be to try to make your rail lines look more realistic (replicating lighter rail as used on sidings/branch lines.) Realistically you won't see a difference unless you REALLY look hard.

While I'm trying to make my layout as realistic as possible, I didn't want to have to deal with the possibility of some cars not working on my layout (derailing easier on the Code70/83 lines) so I went with Code100 everywhere and have never had a problem.


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## Gansett (Apr 8, 2011)

One of the most important things I've learned on this forum, and I've learned a lot believe me, is that it's my layout and I can do whatever I want and have fun. No one else is paying for all this stuff except me,,ok my wife a little.

I've joined a local club forum and made just 2 visits to their massive layout. But I felt like a field mouse with hawks circling the second visit. I can't use Atlas track and switches, I have to build my own. I can't pull that piece of rolling stock with that loco as it conflicts with the dates of use,,says so right here in this book. I couldn't get out of there fast enough. I respect their devotion to being authentic to the era modeled but what they're doing seems more like work than fun to me. I'm in this for personal enjoyment and I'm not trying to impress anyone. My 2¢


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

Jack I hear you, I was looking to be a member of a club around here that I noticed was a little like that. They didnt want to let me run my NS equipment as the head end power since the layout was in the north west and Norfolk Southern is an eastern rail line. Funny, my east coast club used to love me pulling out my BN and BNSF equipment because it was something different, and I was the only one with any as well! 
There is another train forum around that we all know, it is hosted by a popular model railroad mag, and there are a few people there that are just like that as well. "You cant run a N&W 610 on your layout, 610 was scrapped and you run modern day, Renumber it 611 and you will be fine" That is the comment I received one day after telling them that my railroad "saved and restored" 610 and they use it for excursions.

This is a hobby, a hobby is for fun and enjoyment not to add stress to an already stressful life.

Massey


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## Gansett (Apr 8, 2011)

Almost like the guys restoring antique cars. I worked at Narragansett Restoration for a period of time, that's where I really learned to drink,_ heavily_ I might add. 

I've had a lot of oldies and never ever lost a minutes sleep because I had a modern style radiator hose clamp instead of one from the "proper time frame". 

The enjoyment of elderly automobiles  comes from using and driving, not polishing a trailer queen,at least in my opinion. I look at model rr'ing the same way, I'm doing this for fun.


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

Hey, Jack,
Boy oh boy are you and I ever on the same page!
However, I will admit to restoring my three old Buicks to original specs in every way possible just for my own personal pleasure and satisfaction.
I still drive the snot out of them whenever I get the chance. All three have seen every corner of this nation east of the Mississippi.
As for my train layout.......yep, it's MINE, lock stock and barrel. Paid for by nobody but ME, and for the pleasure of nobody but ME. If someone doesn't like my 1940's vintage 2-6-2 steamer pulling 1920's passenger cars then that's just tough cookies, right? If they don't think my landscaping is "realistic", too bad. I wouldn't last 15 minutes around some of those club snobs who get their shorts in a knot over petty details.
Like you said, just my 2 pennies.
Bob


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## optronomega (Aug 17, 2011)

sstlaure said:


> Code100 for the most flexibility (will reliably run anything)


I probably should have went with code 100 also. Went for realism but then i decided to paint my track anyway so the brown ties didn't matter hwell:


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

I too think classic cars are ment to be driven. But I also believe that there come a point when somethings should not be "used as intended". I went to Reno back in 94 and spent about 6 or 7 hours in the Herra's auto museum. I seen some amazing antique and one of a kind cars and trucks there. When you can count the number of surviving copies of said vehicle on one hand and have fingers left over, it is time to put it where it will be safe, but put it where it can still be enjoyed by others. 

I thought that the first Chevy V8 was built in 1955. I was wrong... It was 1917 and it was available in a new (at the time) vehicle called the Suburban. The 1917 Suburban was at the time a multi use panel truck just like it is today. What killed the 1917 V8 is that it only produced 5 more HP than the standard 4 cylinder engine and it got 3 mpg compaired to the 4cyl, 12. It was an overhead valve engine that in a way resembles the Chevy small block that we all know. 

Yes this is a HOBBY, and you do a HOBBY to have fun and relieve stress and to enjoy and share with other like minded people. If I was building a museum layout that depicted a certain time and place then yes I am going to count the rivits and make sure every rock is in the exact proper location. That is what that is supposed to represent, and it is to document a place and time in history. For my model railroad, while prototype discussions are always welcome any visitor must remember that this is my railroad and the rules are set by me!!

Massey


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## dustinb (Sep 20, 2011)

*Snap track*

Any feed back on the atlas snap track? And what is the most common code to you again?


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

The problem with snap track is they are relatively short pieces (3-9" long) so you need a ton of them. Flextrack is more efficient. Code100 is what you're looking for.

Bman had a bunch of snap track for sale.


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## dustinb (Sep 20, 2011)

*track*

Where can u get a good price on flex track?


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

trainworldonline.com is where I got mine. $279 for 300 ft (100 pcs) Buying it by the piece is a bit more expensive.


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## tankist (Jun 11, 2009)

check the usual online places. I like modeltrainstuff.com, but shopped with others as well. i also got a bunch of preowned (and as such sometimes cut) flex at my LHS at great discount. ebay will have preowned stuff too.


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## dustinb (Sep 20, 2011)

*track*

Well guys did i go wrong here just bought some new model power track code 100 it is nickle silver....


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

I don't have any experience with the MP track. What did it cost you? Nickel Silver Code100 is what you want....


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## dustinb (Sep 20, 2011)

*track*

i got 10 36 inch sections for $34 dollars...


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Walthers is showing it for $4.98/pc, so $3.40/pc isn't bad.

Trainworld has it listed for $2.40/pc (but you have to buy 100 pcs for $239.99)

http://www.trainworldonline.com/cat...=119&bycategory=84&x=36&y=12&find_section=431


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## dustinb (Sep 20, 2011)

*track*

They sell it here too www.hobbylinc.com


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