# Good, Inexpensive Acrylic Paint for Models



## dchartier (Jan 29, 2015)

I've been using Tamia acrylic paints from my local hobby store to paint my models. The paint is great, but it's rather expensive. I tried switching to other brands like Americana at Michaels. These paints are very inexpensive (<$2 for a good sized bottle), but they don't spread evenly or cleanly on the styrene even though they're supposed to be good for plastics. Does anyone have some recommendations for some good, inexpensive acrylic paint for modeling?

Thanks!


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I have a recommendation: don't try to go cheap on paint. Many people recommend Wal-Mart craft acrylics as being cheap and acceptable; for myself, I use Vallejo Acrylics, which can be found for about $3 for 3/4 oz. My personal opinion is that these are the best on the market, and I want the best.

However, two often-overlooked steps can improve the adhesion of even lousy paints. Make sure you wash and dry the model to remove factory gunk (especially mold-release agents) and prime your model first.


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## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

If you're brushing on acrylics and hoping they will flow out smoothly, good luck. In my experience, acrylics dry too quickly to flow out. If you thin them enough, then they don't cover well.

The only way I know of to get a smooth finish on a smooth piece of material is to spray it on, whether with an air brush or a spray can.


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## hokie1525 (Jan 13, 2015)

I'm kind of new at this myself, but I'll offer my opinion...

The Americana and Folk brands are easy to find locally, with many color selections. And they are cheap. I was painting a shed recently in one of the lighter beige colors and I noticed it was going on inconsistently. Then I realized that I'm going to be weathering it anyway, and that inconsistency will be welcome in the finished product. After applying a black wash to highlight texture, I then brushed it with rust colored pastel chalk that I powderized in an old cheese grater. Looks as good as old.

So bottom line is, unless you are going for a showroom shine, the cheaper paints should do a good enough job. At least for my taste. Your mileage may vary.


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

I have been using craft paints to paint some of my plastic structures. I thin the paint generously with water -- thicker than a wash, but thin enough that it does a lousy job of covering the color below. I have not settled on a precise mixture, yet. It depends on the paint -- some bottles are thicker than others. I also beat the water/paint mixture thoroughly (usually with the wrong end of a small paint brush) -- to get the lumps out.

I apply the paint in parallel strokes and do not worry about the poor coverage. I find that three coats covers completely -- and looks very smooth. (If the color-to-be-covered is dark and the paint is light, a fourth coat may be needed.) I also find that I must let the pieces dry in a horizontal position, or the paint will run downhill and pile up at one end of the piece.

Is this more work? Sure. But is it more work than masking, air-brushing and cleaning up all of the equipment? I don't know. I have not tried air-brushing. But I suspect that there is not much difference in the time required.

Does the acrylic paint cover up the surface details on the model? Maybe a little bit more than a perfect air-brush job, but I can still clearly see the clapboard lines on the engine shed I am working on.

This painting method also fits my hectic schedule right now. If I have 30 minutes to work on the railroad, I can paint one coat on several pieces, lay them out to dry, then clean the brush in one minute. Later in the day, I might get a chance to put on a second coat.


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

Fire21 said:


> The only way I know of to get a smooth finish on a smooth piece of material is to spray it on, whether with an air brush or a spray can.


I have been experimenting with spray can paint for the base color on my whole layout. I find that spray cans always seem to spit and leave some spots thicker than others. Might not be a problem for my layout base (soil is uneven to start with, and there will be lots of vegetation and structures covering much of it), but I can't see how spraying structure parts with spray cans will look smooth.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

If you use paint often then by all means get a good brand. It makes sense. For touch up on shells I use cheep paint then blend it in with a rubbing or polishing compound.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Regardless of which brand or type of paint you buy you must
test it on an obscure part of the loco or car. Even tho some
paints claim to be plastic friendly, there are plastics that can
be damaged by them. Two different well known brands caused
surface wrinkling on a recent project when I tested it. I ended
up using the Tamika from the hobby shop.. It provided a very smooth matte finish
in one coat and did not hide any molded on details.

Don


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

for structures and scenery I found cheap walmart dollar a bottle acrylic paints to be acceptable, as in most cases weathering is done later on and , however for rolling stock I prefer a paint that will cover well in a thin layer so it doesn't hide detail ...the closest hobby shop is two hours away, so I buy Krylon plastic spray bombs, let the propellant out, and airbrush what's left ...satin black, oxide red's, browns, etc .. and sometimes do a combination mix .. for loco specific colours, and weathered or grimy black, I spend the extra on the Tamiya [and other 'premium' brands] small bottles ... it's not a high price to pay to get a better than average finish on relatively expensive loco's


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## dchartier (Jan 29, 2015)

Thanks for all the advice guys. I'll experiment with some other paints but not go too cheap. I'll also try some of the techniques suggested.

One poster recommended priming the surface before painting. I haven't done this before and was told by my local hobby shop that priming isn't necessary; however, if it helps with the finished product, I'll all for trying it. Does anyone else prime?


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

dchartier said:


> One poster recommended priming the surface before painting. I haven't done this before and was told by my local hobby shop that priming isn't necessary; however, if it helps with the finished product, I'll all for trying it. Does anyone else prime?


We had a thread on priming about a year ago.

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=22909


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

In the time since the old thread listed above, I have started putting plastic models together. I have been using acrylic paints (as I described above) and do not prime. I figure that the primer will make the total paint layer thicker and cover up more of the fine detail in the plastic models.

One additional advantage that I have discovered that I can sometimes remove paint from tiny areas where I got too far onto another part of the plastic, or if I need to remove the paint to glue another piece onto it (glue will not work on painted surfaces). I usually use a fingernail or a blunt toothpick to scrape the paint off. Having primer under the paint would complicate this clean-up procedure.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Again, if you use quality products, the answer differs.

First of all, there are two kinds of acrylic paints. The first kind, craft or artists acrylics, come in a tube and are very thick -- the better to help artists achieve oil paint-like effects. When thinned too much, they do not cover well, and are thick enough to significantly hide details.

The second kind are hobby acrylics. These are thin -- some brands are too thin in an attempt to be useful for both brush painting and airbrushing -- and will generally not hide details. Liquid primers designed for these paints are thin as well, and won't hide details either. You really have to gob this stuff on to hide detail.

Some primers come in spray cans. I avoid these, as they do gunk up details pretty quickly.

Priming gives your surface some tooth to help paint adhere. It does make paint a little harder to get off, but it is easily done with a hobby knife pulled backwards or the edge of a pair of tweezers or sprue nippers without damaging the part. A quick hit with a file will usually remove the paint too. Sure it may scuff the part underneath, but the reason you're scraping it is so you can glue it, so who cares.

The guy in the hobby shop is right -- priming is NOT required, especially with higher end paints. On the other hand, you don't have to use the choke when starting your lawn mower on a cool autumn day, but it sure makes life easier.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Priming*

Priming should only be needed if you are painting over a prior paint job. If you are putting a light color over a dark one this really requires priming. On Plastic models,I prime with a light grey Tamyia airbrushed on. The Tamyia paints are expensive, but in my opinion, well worth the cost. They can be thinned with 70 percent alcohol several times over. Considering all the painting you can get done with that little bottle; they're not such a bad bargain. I also agree with the other responders, Quality is worth it.

Traction Fan


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Hobby paint*



DonR said:


> Regardless of which brand or type of paint you buy you must
> test it on an obscure part of the loco or car. Even tho some
> paints claim to be plastic friendly, there are plastics that can
> be damaged by them. Two different well known brands caused
> ...


Don;

I think you mean Tamiya paint, not Tamika. Unless your using a different paint that I don't know about.
I just pulled out a bottle to check the spelling. As you can see from my post above; I spelled it wrong too.
Heck I don't spell well in English, let alone Japanese!

Regards;
Traction Fan


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## Patrick1544 (Apr 27, 2013)

I find that If the Americana and other craft paints are used on wood, they are ok, but not for plastic surfaces.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Craft paints work well on wood because they are thick enough to cover without soaking in. No so with your average hobby paint.

I recommend using an acrylic sealer to seal wood parts before painting.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

traction fan said:


> Don;
> 
> I think you mean Tamiya paint, not Tamika. Unless your using a different paint that I don't know about.
> I just pulled out a bottle to check the spelling. As you can see from my post above; I spelled it wrong too.
> ...


Traction

You are right, I can't seem to get that spelling right the first time. It is an
excellent spray paint no matter how you spell it.

Con


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