# Lift out issues..... how to easily access my layout?



## Stradawhovious (Feb 28, 2012)

Ok, so I have my bench built. Below is the link to the thread if you need a visual...

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=11184

Big thing I'm struggling with now, is how do I easily remove and replace the 18"x2' lift out I have so I can get at the inside of my bench? I have read where people will slide the track connectors on and off each time they want to access the model, but that seems cumbersome for my stubby little sausage fingers. I tried this, and spend more time with those little track connectors than I did messing around with the layout.

What are my other options? My minds eye tells me that I should just leave the track on the lift out disconnected physically from the rest and run a feeder to it. This seems like it would work as long as the rails match up. Any other suggestions?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'm planning on a drop-down for my access. It seems easier to manage than trying to lift something out that I have trouble reaching anyway.

Running a feeder on a connector or two is the way to deal with track continuity.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I would suggest a wedged tapered fit (via "keyways" or "dovetails") for the drop in. That way, when you drop in the piece, the keyways will self-center themselves ensuring tight-tolerance track alignment. Another benefit: the tapered keyway is only tight when the section is fully down. As soon as you begin to lift it up, the keyway loosens, and you're not fighting friction anywhere.

No need for rail joiners at the track joints. Instead, solder extra power feeds to the track on the lift-out section. Those can be on quick-connect cable joiners, if needed.

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I figured I'd do a similar thing but using the drop-down. I'm not sure how I'd maneuver the drop-in from five feet away, but I can get under and release a catch and drop the unit down.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Sure ... pull up / drop down / swing down... either could work with the same "taper fit" concept.


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## cv_acr (Oct 28, 2011)

This is the mating end of the swing up gate at my club. The bevelled blocks that the bevelled roadbed drops into are adjustable so that we can always ensure 100% perfectly alignment.

We used to have a side-ways swinging bridge but keeping the rails aligned perfectly has always a problem, because the bridge could move sideways out of alignment. We always had to have a "slow order" across it; with the new one we can run full speed through there and not worry about it.



















The round thing in the middle is an electromagnet to hold it down securely and the microswitches cut off power to the bridge and about 5' of track on either side when the bridge is raised.


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## Stradawhovious (Feb 28, 2012)

^^

Nice!


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## Conductorjoe (Dec 1, 2011)

If you go back to the very first page of my layout thread, I made a drop down gate. it has hinges on one side and locking bolts on the other. I got the idea from a freind who made one in HO. It did not work as planned in N scale due to the smaller track and I wound up taking it out and redoing the ends.
It works fine with the bigger track.
As far as sliding the joiners? Use a pic similar to an ice pic. That is what I use to slide joiners when I lay track.

If your track lines up perfect and you add feeder wires like TJ mentioned you wouldnt need the joiners.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

This is where O-gauge makes stuff like this easy.


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