# Want to go DCC



## zeethtrains (Jan 2, 2016)

I'm an old guy (75) and am starting to play with my railroad after it sitting for many years. Right now it is all blocks & switches. I want to convert to DECC but haven't a clue where to start. What would be the best reasonable priced controller for an old guy like me ! What all is involved, what do I need to buy ?


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## Stejones82 (Dec 22, 2020)

You can do this!! 









Wiring Your Model Railroad (Essentials): Larry Puckett: 9781627001755: Amazon.com: Books


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Larry Puckett's "Wiring Your Model Railroad" gives lots of DCC basics. Also, if you a re a YouTube kind of 75 year old, his The DCC Guy series has a lot of good information



https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCuj_3CIjTM2ZCfCkDuICRqA



I'm a 60yo, and just getting started, and I bought the Digitrax Zephyr starting system. Liking it loads. 

Welcome!


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

NCE PowerCab...
Some LHS's have them for around $110.








NCE 25 Power Cab DCC Starter System - North (SCALE=ALL)Part # = 524-25


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

It's very simple to wire in your DCC controller. 

Remove the leads from your power pack on the block controller for both Cab A and Cab B.
Attach the two leads from the controller to Cab A and leave all of your block control switches set to Cab A.
Your railroad is now a DCC powered railroad.
Buy DCC locomotives or convert your old models with the installation of decoders.
Have fun!

If you have investigated DCC at all, you will already know what it is capable of such as having as many locomotives on the layout as you like, and none of them will move until you tell that particular locomotive what to do. Block isolation and control is no longer necessary. That doesn't mean you have to rewire your whole layout though.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

It's hard to give advice without knowing a lot more about you and your railroad. If you just want some basic controls and don't really care about fine-tuning your locos performance, then a basic system -- either MRC's Prodigy Explorer or Bachmann's EZ Command would suit you fine.

If you want room to grow, or you're more inclined to want to tinker with locomotive settings, then you will need a full-featured system. MRC Prodigy Express, NCE PowerCab, or Digitrax Zephyr would all serve your needs, and really it's a question of which interface (including the "human" interface of how the throttle or "cab" feels in your hand). 

Knowing this place as I do, J.Albert will soon weigh in with his sales pitch for the Roco z21, and he will make it sound like it's simplicity itself and the answer to everyone's prayers. It isn't. It's a competent system, fully the equal of the others, designed around smartphones / tablets with a graphical user interface as opposed to the buttons and knobs common to the others. This may be right for you, but for me and many others, the absence of tactile feedback (IOW, the feeling of a button depressing when you push it, or feeling a throttle knob "click" into the next speed step) means you always have to LOOK at the screen, which can be a huge drawback when trying to keep track of things on the layout. Many people, me included, also have trouble making fine adjustments on a touch screen. Only you can decide if this system would be right for you, but just remember, it is NOT superior to the others, just different.

And as far as hooking it up is concerned, in most cases, it really is as simple as unplugging the wires from your DC power pack and plugging them into the DCC base station.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

Since you are already wired for DC operations, conversion can be simple if you are not set up for dual DC cabs or have Reverse loops. In the case of dual cab and reverse loops you may have to removes some of the wiring as DCC really simplifies these operations. If you have just simple blocks then leave them as is and the DCC rail power will replace the DC rail power from you power pack! In general you can just leave all the blocks on. If you're layout is somewhat large and you want block detection then the fact that you already have the blocks set up you would make this easy, see the Digitrax BXP88 which is a combined 8 block circuit breaker/train detector.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

Can you make a temporary dcc only loop just experiment? A loop, no switches, two wires... The some kind of dcc base and dcc ready engine. Go from there.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

As usual our members have done a remarkable job telling you
'how it is"...and, as usual, I want to kick in a few thoughts.

First, you must know that DC and DCC are totally incompatible
electrically. DC has positive and negative 'rails', the polarity changes
for FWD and REV and the voltage changes for speed. 

DCC is a modified AC providing and 'always on' around 14 volts
to the rails. (your loco and car lights don't dim or go out). The
controller also sends digital signals thru the rails to the decoder equipped 
locos you want to run. 
You can run 2, 3, 4 or more trains at the same time, yet you have individual
control of each...(one can go clockwise another counter clockwise on the
same track..an impossibility with DC). Any DCC controller on the market
will have sufficient power for multiple locos running at the same time.
Only if you run a number of sound locos, do you need booster power.


Yet, as mentioned, you need only 2 wires to the track, no blocks or
isolated sections unless you have a reverse 'loop'...(and that is automatically
switched by a reverse loop controller).

DCC is not only easy to wire, it's easy to operate...the controller is in many
ways similar to your TV remote...push buttons change locos, not channels.
It requires no digital or electronic knowledge.

You should keep your DC power packs. They will be useful to power your
turnouts, lights and other accessories. The DCC controller feeds the TRACK ONLY.
It is not designed to power turnouts, etc.

A few words of caution:
You CANNOT have both DC and DCC connected to your
layout at the same time, even using insulated joiners, damage would ensue.
As mentioned, you can power your layout by setting your block
switches to be the same and, through a Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) switch select
from DC or DCC. 
You can operate some DC locos on a DCC track but it is not
advisable. If left idle, the AC voltage will damge the DC motor. However,
some DCC locos CAN be run on a DC track and left idle without damage.

Don


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## 65446 (Sep 22, 2018)

*Z, THIS SIMP*: 
If you have no reverse loops in tracks all you need do is get rid of the blocks/gaps, buy a DCC controller, buy at least 1 DCC loco, hook 2 wires from controller to the rails and you are in DCC..I own and love my NCE PowerCab (about $160)...

Note: If ad for a DCC loco does not say 'DCC/Sound' or 'DCC/Sound on board' loco will run DCC but with no sound..Careful when reading ads..
If you plan to use flex track in future do buy [ebay] Xuron Rail Nippers, now..($7)..When cutting rail the flat side of the jaws goes against the good rail, concave side is the scrap rail and you cut top to bottom not side to side of rail... 

If you do wind up with a reverse loop/s in track it still must be isolated a certain way and wired a certain way.. 
The cheapest method is to employ a DPDT toggle switch wired a certain way I will explain if you ever need...

Welcome aboard ! *M* (I'm 73 !)


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## zeethtrains (Jan 2, 2016)

Thanks much for all the info !!!!! Now I will research which controller I will want !


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

I don't usually make a recommendation for a DCC system unless it is asked for in a post, but this time I will.

Get the NCE Powercab. It is very intuitive, easy to use, and on a large layout with multiple trains it is a breeze to operate. Settings remain the exact same from what you told each locomotive to do from the last time you cycled through your available trains-on-track and can make adjustments to each one individually on the fly.


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## Steve Rothstein (Jan 1, 2021)

MichaelE said:


> Get the NCE Powercab. It is very intuitive, easy to use, and on a large layout with multiple trains it is a breeze to operate. Settings remain the exact same from what you told each locomotive to do from the last time you cycled through your available trains-on-track and can make adjustments to each one individually on the fly.


@zeethtrains I am a beginner in the hobby and have not made enough study to know the various DCC control stations. I model in N gauge and started in DC with the plan to go to DCC fairly quickly. I bought a Digitrax Zephyr on the basis of my LHS recommendation. I have been very pleased with it with one minor exception. When I got it started, I had two loops and could run the trains on them with no problems. Programming was easy using the quick programming to just set the address. The defaults worked for me. I am going to experiment with the advanced programming in the next couple weeks, but the Zephyr has that capability. 

Now for the one exception I mentioned. The Zephyr uses a throttle set up like the rheostat on most DC power packs. By that I mean it is a fixed knob with a set location for 0 and full throttle settings. As with many layouts, I tore most of my track up (the first time, just did it again) and laid out a temporary oval to run trains with. Well, the primary advantage I went to DCC for was because it allows you to run multiple trains on the same track, so I wanted to try it. With the Zephyr's throttle being fixed like that, each time you switch trains the controller sends the current throttle setting to the train as an adjustment. This makes it very hard to get two trains adjusted on one small oval of track without having collisions. If you plan on doing this type of thing, I would suggest looking at the Powercab or some other system. If you don't need this feature, I would recommend looking at the Zephyr. I would not hesitate to buy mine again if I needed one.


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## Stumpy (Mar 19, 2013)

I have the older Zephyr DCS50. Because of the exception Steve mentioned I just purchased a Digitrax DT602D throttle which offers the functionality of the PowerCab. There are cheaper throttle options from Digitrax, but I wanted the dual controls and radio comms vs. being tethered.

Good thing is, the 620, introduced in 2020 will work with the older Zephyr which was discontinued in 2010.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

The DT400 series that were offered with my Super Empire Builder 15 years ago is all I have ever used. The twin encoder knobs don't have a zero point. You spin them clockwise and counter-clockwise until the digital display indicates the speed step you want the decoder to impart to locomotion. You can programme them to have a haptic feedback or to simply spin with no sensation coming to your fingers. Double press them quickly and your decoder will reverse the motion for the active throttle. Click them once and you acquire that decoder to control. Press the encoder once and hold for two seconds, the locomotive's display begins to flash, at which you can scroll through the actively memorized 'stack' of available locomotives.

I think those DT throttles are the cat's backside.


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## Stejones82 (Dec 22, 2020)

Agreed on the DT400!! THose are superseded by the DT600 series. I have the DT602. It does not have the radio, but does have IR capability for wireless, if I choose to get a IT receiver. But it is handheld and connects via a telephone-style coiled cord. I, too, like the dual throttle capability. It is an extra cost which apparently the NCE does with the base unit. Had it to do over again, I may have given the NCE a harder look. My local club uses Digitrax, and my LHS carries and knows Digitrax, so I think I am in the right system. Although the local club is fading as an option. Their time and my availabilities do not mesh well. Pity.


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## zeethtrains (Jan 2, 2016)

zeethtrains said:


> I'm an old guy (75) and am starting to play with my railroad after it sitting for many years. Right now it is all blocks & switches. I want to convert to DECC but haven't a clue where to start. What would be the best reasonable priced controller for an old guy like me ! What all is involved, what do I need to buy ?


OK........I've decided on the NCE Power Cab ! Now what decoder do I want to buy for my locomotives ? Most are Athearn !


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

The most popular non sound decoders are from Digitrax and NCE..both have
warrantee replacements for nonoperating units even if you do the damage.
Most recent decoders permit 2 amp motors and most are very small
and easily fits in the shell. Shop for price, model is not 
that important unless you have an old high amp draw
loco. If you have any DCC READY
locos (that means it has a jack into which you plug a decoder) you'll need
a decoder that you wire in with a soldering iron. The wires are color coded
and instructions are simple. Usually takes an hour or so to install. A DCC
READY unit will have a jack. You will need to determine the number of
points on the plug. Expect to pay around 20.00 unless you buy in bulk.
Sound decoders are another subject entirely...our members can help you
select the better ones...sound decoders are much more costly. Speaker
installation can be difficult on some locos.

Don


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Brand of decoder really doesn't matter that much -- any brand of decoder will work in just about any brand of loco. All mine are Digitrax, NCE, or TCS. I would stay away from Bachmann and MRC decoders -- too many issues with those.

If all of your locos are of recent manufacture, you may just be able to plug the decoder pins into sockets on a circuit board inside the loco. Older locos, though, will require soldering, and maybe a bit of surgery on the innards. It's really not that difficult, but if it makes you nervous, many hobby shops will install them for a small fee. Some of them will even do it by mail order (you send them the loco, they send it back with a decoder installed).


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## zeethtrains (Jan 2, 2016)

OK......thanks for the info !


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## zeethtrains (Jan 2, 2016)

CTValleyRR said:


> Brand of decoder really doesn't matter that much -- any brand of decoder will work in just about any brand of loco. All mine are Digitrax, NCE, or TCS. I would stay away from Bachmann and MRC decoders -- too many issues with those.
> 
> If all of your locos are of recent manufacture, you may just be able to plug the decoder pins into sockets on a circuit board inside the loco. Older locos, though, will require soldering, and maybe a bit of surgery on the innards. It's really not that difficult, but if it makes you nervous, many hobby shops will install them for a small fee. Some of them will even do it by mail order (you send them the loco, they send it back with a decoder installed).


Can you give me a specific number decoders that I need ? I looked & there are lots of them ! I don't want to get the wrong ones. I will have to solder them in


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## Yoppeh7J-UPmp954 (Nov 23, 2014)

zeethtrains said:


> Can you give me a specific number decoders that I need ? I looked & there are lots of them ! I don't want to get the wrong ones. I will have to solder them in


Every locomotive using DCC must have a decoder in it.
Have you seen a layout with sound decoders? Most people are not satisfied with silent decoders once the have heard trains with sound decoders. Try to find a place that has sound decoders to experience the sound. If you are running engines in a consist you can use one sound and the rest silent. I run them that way.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

DCC sound is all that I buy unless the model is not offered with sound and is only DCC Ready. I have to really want that model though. The store I buy from will program the DCC sound decoder with the appropriate sound for the locomotive at no charge, so there's that. ESU sound decoders go for around a C note but come with the speaker. For any locomotive I look at that does not offer a sound version, I can expect to add $100. 

Sound is easily turned off if it becomes tiring or too loud with more than one sound locomotive running at the same time. The reverse is not true for DCC only.

I like to stay with one decoder brand if that is possible. It is not always. Different manufacturers use different decoder brands in their locomotives. Staying with one brand if you have to install them yourself allows you to become more familiar with the CV's that you would like to adjust, and the procedures are all the same so it is more easily memorized without having to open the manual every time you want to make a change.

I have memorized the most important CV's for ESU Loksound, but I still have to get out the book for ZIMO, and Uhlenbrock, and Viessmann decoders when I want to get into more extensive programming.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

zeethtrains said:


> Can you give me a specific number decoders that I need ? I looked & there are lots of them ! I don't want to get the wrong ones. I will have to solder them in


Some loco manufacturers will recommend some decoders for their locos; some decoder manufacturers will recommend a specific one for a given loco. This is especially important with SOUND decoders, because the available engine sounds have to match the prototype.

Otherwise, it makes absolutely no difference at all. Buy whatever you can find a deal on -- just watch the pin configurations for plug-in versions. If it has an 8 pin socket, don't buy a 9 pin decoder (although adapters are also available. Look at the physical size of the decoder versus the available space in the loco, and don't buy a super long wiring harness unless you need it.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Yoppeh7J-UPmp954 said:


> Every locomotive using DCC must have a decoder in it.
> Have you seen a layout with sound decoders? Most people are not satisfied with silent decoders once the have heard trains with sound decoders. Try to find a place that has sound decoders to experience the sound. If you are running engines in a consist you can use one sound and the rest silent. I run them that way.


I'd take issue with the "most people are not satisfied with silent decoders..." statement. This is very much an individual decision / preference, but I wouldn't bet money either way on which group constitutes the majority. Obviously, your preference is for sound. Mine is for sound, too -- in my imagination. Here's why.

The lonely sound of a steam whistle (from my friends at the Essex Steam Train) echoing over the wooded hills of the Connecticut River Valley as we sit around the firepit on a crisp fall evening is one of the most beautiful sounds imaginable. It would be wonderful to recreate that sound on my layout. But here's the thing. Sound doesn't scale properly to 1/87th scale. Sound-equipped locomotives don't replicate that semi-mournful wail: they emulate the blasting whistle that you hear when you're standing right next to the loco. The one that makes all the kids jump and cover their ears. Likewise, all the other sounds. Sure you can fix the volume, but you can't duplicate the tone. So even running a single, sound-equipped loco doesn't provide the magic for me -- I can't reconcile the sounds I'm hearing with what my eye, from a scale distance of about 1/10 of a mile, tells me I should be hearing.

Now consider multiple train operation (NOT locos in consist, but separate trains). My layout represents an area of about 28 miles, from Old Saybrook on the coast to just north of Middletown, halfway to the Massachusetts border. If I'm working a passenger pickup at Saybrook Point, and my son is working the Brownstone Quarry in Portland (if you know the area, don't quibble -- I moved the quarry to the opposite bank of the river and made it rail-served because I had some ideas for modeling it), the two of us are standing shoulder to shoulder or back to back in the center of the layout's C shape. I wouldn't be able to hear any noises made by his train, and vice versa. But with sound decoders, you do. Totally ruins the illusion of distance. 3-4 trains worth of rail clatter, coupler clank, steam cuffs, diesel grumble horns, whistles, bells, conductor announcements, radio chatter, etc, etc, and you rapidly get a cacophony of sound that is anything but pleasant. Sure, you can reduce the volume so that you have toget your head right down at layout level to hear it, but then what's the point of having it?

By all means, check out sound decoders. You may find you can't live without them. Or you may find that it just doesn't do it for you. But it's not right or wrong, better or worse. It's just different.


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## Stejones82 (Dec 22, 2020)

I'm still squeaky new, but I'm leaning towards CT's point of view. I have one steamer with BLI Paragon 3 sound. Out of the box, it is cool! CHuff, whistles, shoveling coal anachronistic radio chatter, etc. But I also must admit, that for me, one of the beauties of HO trains is the* sight of those li'l babies gliding slowly over the tracks with majesty and awe*, and almost silently. Back in my Navy days, I loved to conn the ship slowly, with little noise or drastic maneuvers toward the pier. Slow and stately is more my 'speed' I'm thinking. Obviously, your experience will differ.

I've already programmed the CV for starting sound volume to approx 1/3. Only the known cost of the feature has kept me from turning it off completely, but I know where the mute function is!

And I have a pretty significant hearing loss! I prefer to run my trains without my hearing aids in. Sound is very 'whiz-bang' cool and exciting. First run or so will bring a childish grin to your face. But like many things that glitter, the luster quickly fades. 

Just my ha-penny's worth, let the flaming begin!


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Stejones82 said:


> I'm still squeaky new, but I'm leaning towards CT's point of view. I have one steamer with BLI Paragon 3 sound. Out of the box, it is cool! CHuff, whistles, shoveling coal anachronistic radio chatter, etc. But I also must admit, that for me, one of the beauties of HO trains is the* sight of those li'l babies gliding slowly over the tracks with majesty and awe*, and almost silently. Back in my Navy days, I loved to conn the ship slowly, with little noise or drastic maneuvers toward the pier. Slow and stately is more my 'speed' I'm thinking. Obviously, your experience will differ.
> 
> I've already programmed the CV for starting sound volume to approx 1/3. Only the known cost of the feature has kept me from turning it off completely, but I know where the mute function is!
> 
> ...


There should not be any flaming! As I said, it's a matter of preference and not a universal standard. Right for someone doesn't make it right for everyone. Our layouts: our rules.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

involved, what do I need to buy ?
[/QUOTE]


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## Steve Rothstein (Jan 1, 2021)

As another new guy, please allow me to throw in my two cents worth. I agree with the final conclusion @CTValleyRR said. It is up to you and your preference.

I started with DC but had a couple locomotives that were DCC already. I upgraded to DCC and I wanted a steam loco for it. The one the LHS had in stock happened to be a Broadway Limited Mikado that had the sound in it. I bought it because sound appealed to me and I wanted to try it. I got it home and when I showed it to the granddaughters, they got really excited about hearing it. I took two of my other locos (both diesels) to the shop to have them install new sound decoders. I hope to get them back shortly. I bought another diesel with sound (another BLI model) and currently have two that run on the layout at a time. And I can begin to see CTValleyRR's point about the amount of noise. If I had all four trains running with sound at the same time, it would definitely get noisy in my little 4x8 table layout and might remove some of the fun.

The object, in my opinion, is to enjoy yourself and relax. If sound helps, get sound. If sound gets to much and bothers you, stop getting sound (or use the mute function).


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## zeethtrains (Jan 2, 2016)

zeethtrains said:


> I'm an old guy (75) and am starting to play with my railroad after it sitting for many years. Right now it is all blocks & switches. I want to convert to DECC but haven't a clue where to start. What would be the best reasonable priced controller for an old guy like me ! What all is involved, what do I need to buy ?


I have a couple more questions...........I've decided to rewire my layout & get rid of a bunch of toggle switches. I'm going to run a pair of bare solid 14 gauge wire around under the layout. How often should I tap into rails ? I'm also going to do capacitor discharge units. I have 12 or 15 turnouts. How many deo I need ?


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I wouldn't run bare wire. Too much chance of an accidental short. It is possible to run an entire 8x8 L shaped layout on a single pair of AWG feeders. You could probably go a little bigger than that, even. Everything else is risk reduction. It's not necessary, but it's a good idea.

My personal recommendation is to put drops every 8-10 feet, and on the diverging leg of every turnout. Solder your rail joiners for a good connection within each of these 10-ish foot sections, and leave the ones in between the sections unsloldered with about 1/16" gap between the rails (to handle expansion/ contraction). If you're not going to solder joiners, use more drops. Just my recommendation, though. There is no "right" answer here.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

Why would you want to get rid of the block switches? Unless there wired for dual cab, just leave them on and just change out the power pace DC to the rails for the DCC output of the controller. Leaving the block wiring may make it easier to put in track occupancy detection. You would need to revise any reverse loop wiring.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

zeethtrains said:


> I have a couple more questions...........I've decided to rewire my layout & get rid of a bunch of toggle switches. I'm going to run a pair of bare solid 14 gauge wire around under the layout. How often should I tap into rails ? I'm also going to do capacitor discharge units. I have 12 or 15 turnouts. How many deo I need ?


zeethtrains;

One good capacitive discharge unit should handle all your turnouts. What brand of turnouts are you using? As mentioned, you can keep your present wiring and toggle switches if you want to save the work of tearing all that out. Just hook up your DCC controller where your DC power pack used to be. Also set all the block power selector toggle switches for the same "cab" that your new DCC controller replaced. If you had a second DC power pack, I would disconnect that one from the control panel.
Don't throw those DC power packs away. They will make good power supplies for lights & accessories. One can be the power source for a home-built Capacitive Discharge Unit also, if needed.

Good Luck & Have Fun;

Traction Fan 🙂


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## zeethtrains (Jan 2, 2016)

traction fan said:


> zeethtrains;
> 
> One good capacitive discharge unit should handle all your turnouts. What brand of turnouts are you using? As mentioned, you can keep your present wiring and toggle switches if you want to save the work of tearing all that out. Just hook up your DCC controller where your DC power pack used to be. Also set all the block power selector toggle switches for the same "cab" that your new DCC controller replaced. If you had a second DC power pack, I would disconnect that one from the control panel.
> Don't throw those DC power packs away. They will make good power supplies for lights & accessories. One can be the power source for a home-built Capacitive Discharge Unit also, if needed.
> ...


All of my turnouts are Atlas & Atlas snap switches mounted under the layout. I am considering changing some turnouts out for Peco if they are anywhere near the same dimensions & radius !


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## zeethtrains (Jan 2, 2016)

zeethtrains said:


> All of my turnouts are Atlas & Atlas snap switches mounted under the layout. I am considering changing some turnouts out for Peco if they are anywhere near the same dimensions & radius !


On another note, I need uncouplers in a few places......Whats out there these days for those ? I have Kadee On all of my rolling stock !


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## 65446 (Sep 22, 2018)

Your Atlas switches if they were all Customline would be just as fine as Pecos, if dealt with correctly..
In fact ( and this is my personal concept ):
Atlas look US prototype, whereas Peco seem to have an 'English' look to them; the particular way UK track lays.
This is something to consider...Atlas 'SnapTrack switches' have large plastic frogs..R&R those ASAP.

And sorry if I'm late to this:
If ad for a DCC loco does not say "Sound" or "Sound on Board" it's silent DCC... If it says "DCC ready, it has plugs under shell to add a decoder (usually another $25-$40)..AND that is still with no speaker present (another, what, $10-$15).
And, If you buy a speaker all the best getting it seated somewhere and wired in....
Especially for a 'newer' guy, I'd say you'd be best to stick with it all done for you; "Sound on Board" or, at least, DCC/silent but running, with Atlas Customline switches and their code 83 track...

Need to wire up a reverse loop ? About $4.00 can get that w/manual DPDT toggle mounted with clear view of loop, wye, turntable..Can explain if you like... M


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

zeethtrains said:


> On another note, I need uncouplers in a few places......Whats out there these days for those ? I have Kadee On all of my rolling stock !


I use a pick made from a bamboo skewer and a length of 5/8" dowel. Cut a 3" length of dowel to use as a handle, and cut one bamboo skewer in half. Drill a 1/2" deep hole in the dowel, add a drop of glue, and insert the blunt end of the cut skewer into the hole.

To uncouple, insert the point between the couplers and give a gentle twist. Works anywhere on the layout, whenever desired, and only when desired.


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## Yoppeh7J-UPmp954 (Nov 23, 2014)

zeethtrains said:


> On another note, I need uncouplers in a few places......Whats out there these days for those ? I have Kadee On all of my rolling stock !


Look at Rapido Railcrew switch and uncouplers









RailCrew Switch Machine with Operating Switch Stand - Single


RailCrew Switch Machine with Operating Switch Stand - Single




rapidotrains.com


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I don't personally like the Railcrew switch machines, because they're still a snap-activated motion. I much prefer the slower motion and finer control of servo motors. The system developed by Tam Valley Depot, which is very similar to the Walthers turnout control system, is simple to use and entirely plug and play. No soldering required. 

The rotating switch stands are awesome, though. The only thing I ever found that looks like the real ones used on the Valley Line.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

zeethtrains said:


> All of my turnouts are Atlas & Atlas snap switches mounted under the layout. I am considering changing some turnouts out for Peco if they are anywhere near the same dimensions & radius !


Unfortunately, they're not. Both the size and geometry are completely different. For one thing, the Snap Switches have a curved diverging leg that doesn't correspond to any higher-quality turnout. These all have a straight diverging leg.

That said, it still might be worth it to swap them out. They don't age well, and you can use short pieces of flex track to connect back to your existing track if you remove a couple of inches of other track around the turnouts.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

zeethtrains said:


> All of my turnouts are Atlas & Atlas snap switches mounted under the layout. I am considering changing some turnouts out for Peco if they are anywhere near the same dimensions & radius !


zeethtrains;

I'm guessing you mean that the Atlas twin-coil switch machines are mounted under the layout, not the actual turnouts. 😄

Atlas "snap switch" turnouts have a unique geometry, with one straight route, and one curved route. Atlas's own "Custom Line" turnouts, and all other brands, including Peco, have two straight routes diverging at the frog angle ( #4, #6, etc.) So there is no direct, just-drop-it-in-&-it-fits, turnout replacement for an Atlas snap switch. Any other brand of turnout can be fitted, but you will need to take up a section of track (if you're using sectional track) on some of the tracks connecting to the snap switch, and replace it with some pieces of flex track. This has been done many times, by many people, and it's not all that difficult.
Are you having derailments or other problems with your Atlas snap switch turnouts? Is that why you are thinking about replacing some, or all of them with Peco? Now Peco is an excellent turnout, but many of the problems with the design of the Atlas snap switch can be fixed. The file below, "Improving Atlas Turnouts" explains what the potential problems are, and how to fix them. The other file, "All About Turnouts" has lots of information about model turnouts in general.

Good Luck & Have Fun:

Traction Fan 🙂


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Zeethtrains

Under track magnetic uncouplers are often used in industrial or yard spur tracks. The
magnet should be placed an inch or 2 away from the turnout. A switcher would back
the car or cut of cars to be uncoupled til the couplers are over the magnet...you should
see the 'hoses' swing to open the couplers...the switcher then pulls forward leaving
the car. If you wish the car to be farther down the
track...simply push the car with the knuckles open to it's spot, then back away.

Kadee also makes an electromagnet uncoupler that you place under a mainline track.
It uncouples only when knucklers are over it and you push a button to energize it.

But as already mentioned, the most dependable uncoupler of all is the HOG...Hand Of God...
a swizzle stick sharpend and flattened on one end. It is inserted into the knuckles...a
deft twist uncouples...it takes some practice time to get it right.

Don


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

zeethtrains;

The various types of Kadee uncouplers you may remember are all still on the market today. There are three basic types, visible permanent magnet between the rails, hidden permanent magnet under the track and ballast, and electromagnet. I've never been a fan of the first type, prone to unwanted uncouplings and kind of ugly. The second one is my favorite. Rather than permanently mounting it though, I have mine hinged so that it can be dropped down into the "OFF" position, where it won't uncouple anything. Raising it up sets it in the "ON" position, where it will uncouple. It's completely hidden, doesn't cost as much as the electromagnetic type, and doesn't buzz or get hot when you use it. The direction sheet that comes with the uncoupler shows this hinge option. They pull the magnet up with a string. I used a gear motor to raise and lower it.

Traction Fan 🙂


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## zeethtrains (Jan 2, 2016)

traction fan said:


> zeethtrains;
> 
> I'm guessing you mean that the Atlas twin-coil switch machines are mounted under the layout, not the actual turnouts. 😄
> 
> ...


Thahks Much !!!


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## zeethtrains (Jan 2, 2016)

traction fan said:


> zeethtrains;
> 
> The various types of Kadee uncouplers you may remember are all still on the market today. There are three basic types, visible permanent magnet between the rails, hidden permanent magnet under the track and ballast, and electromagnet. I've never been a fan of the first type, prone to unwanted uncouplings and kind of ugly. The second one is my favorite. Rather than permanently mounting it though, I have mine hinged so that it can be dropped down into the "OFF" position, where it won't uncouple anything. Raising it up sets it in the "ON" position, where it will uncouple. It's completely hidden, doesn't cost as much as the electromagnetic type, and doesn't buzz or get hot when you use it. The direction sheet that comes with the uncoupler shows this hinge option. They pull the magnet up with a string. I used a gear motor to raise and lower it.
> 
> Traction Fan 🙂


Thanks Much !!!


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## Yoppeh7J-UPmp954 (Nov 23, 2014)

CTValleyRR said:


> I'd take issue with the "most people are not satisfied with silent decoders..." statement. This is very much an individual decision / preference, but I wouldn't bet money either way on which group constitutes the majority. Obviously, your preference is for sound. Mine is for sound, too -- in my imagination. Here's why.
> 
> The lonely sound of a steam whistle (from my friends at the Essex Steam Train) echoing over the wooded hills of the Connecticut River Valley as we sit around the firepit on a crisp fall evening is one of the most beautiful sounds imaginable. It would be wonderful to recreate that sound on my layout. But here's the thing. Sound doesn't scale properly to 1/87th scale. Sound-equipped locomotives don't replicate that semi-mournful wail: they emulate the blasting whistle that you hear when you're standing right next to the loco. The one that makes all the kids jump and cover their ears. Likewise, all the other sounds. Sure you can fix the volume, but you can't duplicate the tone. So even running a single, sound-equipped loco doesn't provide the magic for me -- I can't reconcile the sounds I'm hearing with what my eye, from a scale distance of about 1/10 of a mile, tells me I should be hearing.
> 
> ...


Yes my wife who spent her career as an accountant in a Russian nuclear submarine factory can hear an ant pass gas in a hurricane complains if a steam engine is sitting. Dose anyone know the purpose of FUNCTION 8? It shuts the locomotive sounds off and reduces spouse noise about noise I can not hear even with hearing aids.....
I was woke up at 4:30 in the morning first night home from the hospital March 9 1944 by dads friend a union Pacific engineered who as my mother said blew the whistle like he was trying to wake the dead every time he he passed to say hello to dad. The house was on the left side of my avatar above the highway just around the curve which is just over 1/4 mile west of where the 1941 famous war time picture of Big Boy 4019 was taken. The Mikado UP 2142 is near the crossing to dads farm which is on the right side of the avatar is headed to the Park City spur at Echo to get loaded ore cars at Park City. Picture taken Aug 30 1947 by Emil Albrecht. I saw all 25 Big Boys operating passed here before UP got enough SCREAMING Gas Turbines and dizzy diesels to replace them.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Yoppeh7J-UPmp954 said:


> Yes my wife who spent her career as an accountant in a Russian nuclear submarine factory can hear an ant pass gas in a hurricane complains if a steam engine is sitting. Dose anyone know the purpose of FUNCTION 8? It shuts the locomotive sounds off and reduces spouse noise about noise I can not hear even with hearing aids.....
> I was woke up at 4:30 in the morning first night home from the hospital March 9 1944 by dads friend a union Pacific engineered who as my mother said blew the whistle like he was trying to wake the dead every time he he passed to say hello to dad. The house was on the left side of my avatar above the highway just around the curve which is just over 1/4 mile west of where the 1941 famous war time picture of Big Boy 4019 was taken. The Mikado UP 2142 is near the crossing to dads farm which is on the right side of the avatar is headed to the Park City spur at Echo to get loaded ore cars at Park City. Picture taken Aug 30 1947 by Emil Albrecht. I saw all 25 Big Boys operating passed here before UP got enough SCREAMING Gas Turbines and dizzy diesels to replace them.


A lot of words in that post... but I'm having trouble assessing a coherent message. A collection of anecdotes about the noises trains make? A fond collection of memories related to train noises, perhaps as a justification for having sound-capable locomotives, perhaps? If there's a message in there, it's not coming across.

The one germane thing that you said refers to F8 -- the "mute" button. That's a very expensive way to obtain the same effect I can obtain by not installing sound in the first place -- which is absolutely free. That's like spending $1000 for a new set of speakers and then always using headphones instead.


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