# N Scale Couplers



## jkitsmiller (May 18, 2017)

Cross posting as I may have chose the wrong forum.

Ok, I am building my first layout and learning a lot as I go along.

But I have run into something I can't figure out.

I want to change the couplers to better ones than the standard little plastic ones so I bought a bunch of E-Z Mate Mark II couplers.

But I can't seem to figure out how to change them. I have watched some videos online and they all show body-mounted couplers or truck-attached couplers that have a screw to remove them.

None of mine have a screw though, just a plastic bump (see picture - sorry for it being blurry, phone camera couldn't focus that close).

Is it possible to change these couplers?


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## GNfan (Jun 3, 2016)

*Welcome*

Welcome. I saw your post on the n-scale forum, but there was no pic attached - you have to make 5 posts before you can attach pics.

I have some like that myself. I ended up replacing the trucks.


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## jkitsmiller (May 18, 2017)

How do you get the trucks off? Just pop them off? If so is there a threaded hole for a screw under the plastic "bump"? I'm asking because I figure I have to screw new trucks on.

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## GNfan (Jun 3, 2016)

The kingpin should pull straight out if you grasp it with needle-nose pliers. Try not to twist - they have little ribs on them. Swap the truck, and then use the hole in the center of the kingpin to push it back in. You want it secure, but not so deep it interferes with the truck moving side-to-side,


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## jkitsmiller (May 18, 2017)

Boy do I feel like a dork! I didn't realize that was a little plastic pin. Thanks for the help.

Do you normally have to replace trucks on all of your rolling stock, or do some of them come with better trucks that allow you to replace the coupler?


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## Ko Improbable (Mar 15, 2017)

jkitsmiller said:


> Boy do I feel like a dork! I didn't realize that was a little plastic pin. Thanks for the help.
> 
> Do you normally have to replace trucks on all of your rolling stock, or do some of them come with better trucks that allow you to replace the coupler?


The cars I just bought were all fitted with screws for the couplers. The couplers you have, there, were the standard, I believe, back when I first got into the hobby, though I seem to remember that, even then, they were frequently being replaced.


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## GNfan (Jun 3, 2016)

*n-scale couplers*

Virtually all new rolling stock come with magnetic couplers. Some older Bachmann have "dummy knuckles" that will mate with magnetics. The obsolete coupler in your pic is called a "Rapido". It's to n-scale what a "horn-hook" is to HO scale - it was the standard once. But IMHO, a "cut" of cars with Rapido couplers isn't evil - it just has to mate with your locomotive. If you have to change that, go with micro-trains brand - there's a conversion table on their website


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## sachsr1 (Mar 3, 2016)

I got a really good deal on a bunch of rolling stock that all had hook horns. Instead of changing them all out I just made a few "adapter" cars. I just put magnetic on one end, and hook on the other.


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## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

sachsr1 said:


> I got a really good deal on a bunch of rolling stock that all had hook horns. Instead of changing them all out I just made a few "adapter" cars. I just put magnetic on one end, and hook on the other.


Most of my rolling stock is old stuff with the hook horns, so, like you, I just made a conversion car or two. Works pretty well, although doesn't look very realistic if you look closely. But I'm not into total realism, so it works fine for me.


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## VegasN (Mar 14, 2016)

I did the same thing with a few of my N scale cars, one Knuckle, one Rapido.

I responded in the other thread, but looks like I was a bit late......


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Just magnetic, or actual Micro-Trains*



GNfan said:


> Virtually all new rolling stock come with magnetic couplers. Some older Bachmann have "dummy knuckles" that will mate with magnetics. The obsolete coupler in your pic is called a "Rapido". It's to n-scale what a "horn-hook" is to HO scale - it was the standard once. But IMHO, a "cut" of cars with Rapido couplers isn't evil - it just has to mate with your locomotive. If you have to change that, go with micro-trains brand - there's a conversion table on their website


jkitsmiller;

GNfan is quite right above. Current production of many brands of N-scale (and HO-scale) cars come with some form of knuckle coupler with a curved steel "air hose" piece that will allow them to uncouple magnetically. There are important differences in the quality and operational reliability, of these various brands of couplers however.
A little background info to explain how we got into the current coupler situation.
For many years, Micro-Trains (Kadee in HO) made the only magnetic, operating, knuckle-shaped couplers. Other manufacturers were stuck with Rapido (or horn-hook in HO) because Micro-Trains/Kadee had a patent on their coupler design. Now the patent has run out and anybody can make their own version of knuckle couplers. Some work reasonably well, others do not. There can be problems getting brand A's coupler to mate with, or uncouple from, couplers made by brand B or brand C.
The most reliable way to operate magnetic couplers on your railroad is to use a single brand of coupler on all your locos and cars. In my opinion, and by a large consensus of experienced model railroaders, the far and away best brand is Micro-Trains/Kadee. 
I would highly recommend going with all Micro-Trains couplers. They cost a little more, but are much more reliable than any other brand.
If you happen to buy a car you really want, and it has other knuckle couplers, try it out. It may work well enough that it's not necessary to replace it with Micro-Trains couplers. If it just won't work reliably, you still have the option of replacing the couplers.
Micro-Trains also makes their own, beautiful (but pricey) line of freight, and passenger, cars. They come with Micro-Trains couplers already installed. Boxcars have doors that actually slide open, Refers have ice hatches that can be opened and hopper cars have coal dump doors that open. None of these doors operate by remote control like some Lionel toy cars did. They open/close with your fingers. Detail is outstanding on all Micro-Trains cars. In my opinion, they are worth their higher cost, but that's for you to decide for yourself. 

Regards;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## jkitsmiller (May 18, 2017)

@Traction Fan and @GNfan, thanks so much, I'm so glad I found this forum.

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## VegasN (Mar 14, 2016)

Well, I think when I get to that stage, which gets closer each week, I have decided which couplers I'll be using. Now......trucks and wheels? Micro-Trains as well?


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Trucks, wheels, and couplers*



VegasN said:


> Well, I think when I get to that stage, which gets closer each week, I have decided which couplers I'll be using. Now......trucks and wheels? Micro-Trains as well?


VegasN;

Whether you use Micro-Trains trucks, or not, would possibly depend on whether you are going to body mount the M-T couplers; or go with truck mounted couplers. If you prefer the ease of truck mounted, then yes, you would probably want to buy M-T's trucks with their excellent couplers already attached. This is a lot easier than body mounting, but there are two disadvantages also. First, while buying Micro-Trains products is never cheap, entire truck/coupler assemblies will cost more than just the couplers. 
If the trucks now on your cars have metal wheels; that is an advantage you may want to retain. All Micro-Trains trucks come with their plastic wheels. Great looking, and free-rolling, but light on weight. N-scale cars are often underweight, and having metal wheels & axles at the bottom of the car will help it track better and be less likely to fall off the track. Adding weight inside the car helps, but any weight you can get down low will lower the critical center-of-gravity. I use Micro-Trains trucks, but install Fox Valley Models metal wheels in them. Doing this and filling the center beam, and the bottom of the car with weight makes the car quite difficult to topple. The old trick most of us did when we were young; pushing a car fast and letting it pass through a curve; is still a good test.
Second. Pushing a string of truck-mounted coupler cars backward through curves, and/or turnouts, puts a lot of sideways forces on the trucks. This makes them more likely to derail than body-mounted couplers would. Body mounted couplers keep all pushing, and pulling forces within the car's under-frame. There are no sideways forces applied to the trucks. If you elect to keep the current metal-wheeled trucks, then you will either need to keep whatever couplers are now attached to those trucks, or cut off the old couplers and body mount Micro-Trains couplers. 
I have many cars with truck-mounted couplers, plastic wheels, and not enough weight. However I update them with body mounted couplers, metal wheels, and correct weight, as I go along. This is expensive, and time consuming, but; in the long run, the most reliable system. I want to be able to do switching with maximum reliability and minimum hassle. In my opinion, it's worth the extra cost in money and time.

regards;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## VegasN (Mar 14, 2016)

traction fan said:


> VegasN;
> 
> Whether you use Micro-Trains trucks, or not, would possibly depend on whether you are going to body mount the M-T couplers; or go with truck mounted couplers. If you prefer the ease of truck mounted, then yes, you would probably want to buy M-T's trucks with their excellent couplers already attached. This is a lot easier than body mounting, but there are two disadvantages also. First, while buying Micro-Trains products is never cheap, entire truck/coupler assemblies will cost more than just the couplers.
> If the trucks now on your cars have metal wheels; that is an advantage you may want to retain. All Micro-Trains trucks come with their plastic wheels. Great looking, and free-rolling, but light on weight. N-scale cars are often underweight, and having metal wheels & axles at the bottom of the car will help it track better and be less likely to fall off the track. Adding weight inside the car helps, but any weight you can get down low will lower the critical center-of-gravity. I use Micro-Trains trucks, but install Fox Valley Models metal wheels in them. Doing this and filling the center beam, and the bottom of the car with weight makes the car quite difficult to topple. The old trick most of us did when we were young; pushing a car fast and letting it pass through a curve; is still a good test.
> ...


Ok......great info! You actually changed my mind on something. I was originally going to go with truck mounted, simply for ease. But, I too must have decent backing over turnouts. That is one of my biggest problems, and one of my biggest pet peeves! So, in light of what you are saying, body mounted are a must for me. Thank you very, very much! Very helpful!!:smilie_daumenpos:


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