# how do I keep constant power through-out my layout?



## Great SaltLake Route (Mar 1, 2014)

how do I keep constant power to the track? there seems to be a low spot in my layout, all of my Locomotives slow down at a certain part of my track. how do I keep constant power to my track using an MRC 3900? do I use jumping wire? if so, how do I do that?


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

The best solution depends on a couple of things. It may be dirty track, poor connectivity, or voltage drop. For a small layout , like a 4x8, it's probably not voltage loss. Likewise, if the "low" spot isn't at or near the farthest point from the power pack, it also might not be voltage loss.. Do you have a voltmeter you can test the track with?

if you really do have voltage loss (that is, there is so much resistance in the wiring / track that power is not getting to the locos), then by all means wire up a large gauge bus wire under the layout and put feeders up to the track every 5-8 feet. But before you go to all that effort, lets look at the other potential causes.

Can you tell us what kind of track you're using, the size of your layout, the track configuration near the dead spot (especially the presence of turnouts or reversing loops), and any elevations or terrain features near the dead spot. With this information, we can suggest several possible causes and solutions.


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## Great SaltLake Route (Mar 1, 2014)

I have had this problem on my 4x8 layout with brass track, as well as my PowerLoc 18 piece set (black road bed,not sure what kind of track). no elevations, no turnouts. I just have an oval design for both tracks (the most basic). I am in the process of buying Code 83 Nickel Silver track, I do have some, but not nearly enough. I would like to tackle the low spot concerns that I have before I try to do anything on a bigger scale. I do notice the Locomotive speed-up a little when heading toward the terminal. I'd like to get this stuff solved so my Son and I can get a cool layout going for Christmas.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Since you have a basic layout which is fairly small, odds are against you needing more feeder wires. You probably have another issue, which the higher voltage closer to the transformer is masking.

PowerLoc with black roadbed is steel track. At the risk of being insulting, it's garbage. Steel doesn't conduct that well to begin with, and if it gets corroded (which it does just by sitting there) forget it. Oxides of iron are non-conductive, so if there's any between your loco's motor and your powerpack, you will lose power. Brass also oxidizes to a non-conductive oxide, but brass has the advantage of being an excellent conductor. 

At this point, I will suggest two steps. First, clean your track thoroughly. Use a track cleaning block (Bright Boy) if you have one, if not, an old fashioned ink eraser (NOT pencil) will work. Failing in that, use emory cloth or other very fine abrasive (nothing larger than 800 grit, so you don't leave scratches that will increase the surface area available to oxidize). Next, clean your track with a water free cleaner. I use denatured alcohol (available in the paint section of hardware stores), you can also use rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol. If you use that, try to find some that is 91% concentrated, not the 70% stuff that is becoming common in stores. There are lots of other things that will work, but you need something that will evaporate quickly and not leave a residue. Wipe your track thoroughly. If you have gunk on the rag, keep going. Switch back to the gentle abrasive if you can't get the gunk off. Finally, use a corrosion-inhibiting metal polish like Filtz to protect the track. This process will work for both brass and steel.

After cleaning, take a pair of needle-nosed pliers and gently squeeze each rail joiner at both ends to make sure they are in firm contact. Many of us solder our track joints, but this is probably overkill in your situation.

Also, take your solvent based cleaner to your locomotive wheels. Having them clean will help.
Good luck.


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

Great SaltLake Route said:


> No elevations, no turnouts. I just have an oval design for both tracks (the most basic)


Even if you think you do not have any elevational changes, there may be subtle slopes that you can't see, but which affect the speed of the train. Check your track with a level to be sure that it is truly level.

Also, rolling resistance of cars and locos increases on curves, so it is not uncommon for a train to slow a little on a curve and speed up a little on the straight part.


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