# Another American Flyer 293 question



## Monkeyleg

I've been trying to get an AF 293 locomotive into salable shape so I can put it on Ebay. It's taken months to get the truck wheels I needed.

Before I started looking for parts, I check to make sure the locomotive worked. It ran strong. The e-unit didn't work, so I got a set of "fingers" for it. I replaced those yesterday, put some power to the unit, and nothing happened. The locomotive motor didn't work.

I removed the wires from the e-unit and put jumper wires with alligator clips on the two clips for the motor brushes and on the two end wires of the coil primary windings. The locomotive runs, but not very fast. It seems to run hesitantly, as though something (maybe one of the commutators) isn't right. 

I'm getting about 1.3 ohms of resistance across the primary coil wires, and also about 1.3 ohms between each of the commutator plates. I get no connection between the commutator plates and ground. 

I'm using a laptop power supply that's putting out 16 volts DC at 4.5 amps. 

The windings on the coil get pretty warm. I don't know if that's normal. 

Any suggestions on what the problem might be? I just wanted to get this put back together and sell it. :dunno:


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## Monkeyleg

Still tinkering with this thing. Here's what I've noticed.

The brushes seem to be working. I see a blue spark from each. I've tried pushing in on the brush springs while the motor runs to see if they might be weak, but that makes no difference.

I took the magnet off the chassis and put power to it. The magnetic force is very strong up at the top where the windings are. The force gets weaker as you move down the magnet on either side. It's pretty weak at the bottom.

The locomotive will do a couple of turns of the drive wheel at what seems like a decent starting speed, but then there's a hesitation, then the wheels turn again. I noticed that the hesitation comes from the armature being pulled to the top. I removed the brush housing and just had jumper wires on the ends of the wires for the field winding. I held the shaft of the armature lightly, enough to let it spin. On each turn it would go through almost a complete turn, but then get pulled to the top and stall. It would then start to turn again, and do the same thing.

I notice when the brush housing is on that the armature is being pulled back and forth (and maybe up and down, too).

I don't know if all of this is normal.

Any ideas? 

Thanks for any replies.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

I don't know if it makes any difference, but these engines run on AC power. I've heard they are universal motors and should run on DC as well, but I never tried it, nor would I want to. I'm no electrical engineer so I have no clue. But to test run these, I suggest using an AC transformer, preferably an old Flyer one that can be had for as little as $5 around train shows or eBay. As far as connecting to test run, I suggest testing the engine alone (without the tender connection) to be sure the motor is working properly first. If it does, then you know the problem is with the tender, tender wiring or the reverse unit in the tender. To direct connect an engine, consult the drawing I have posted with this....the jumper wire is nothing more than a wire with alligator clips or other type connection to "jump" the circuit between the two connections as listed. The diagram will provide the connections to test both forward and reverse running. All connections are made at the jackplate receptacle on the back of the engine cab. Usually, I remove the mounting screws and allow the receptacle to dangle free to make the connections on the back.


Other possibilities to check are to be sure the fingers were installed correctly -- one set is offset from center, the other is not. It is important to get them in the correct location. I believe the offset fingers are mounted on the top of the reverse unit while the centered one is located on the front. I'll have to go check that somewhere to be sure. and also be sure they are actually contacting the drum as it rotates. I've had them come close but not actually touch. Use a toothpick to push them down and check they are.


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## Monkeyleg

Thanks for the reply, Nuttin But Flyer. I was wondering about that AC thing. It ran great a couple of months ago on the DC converter.

I've disconnected all of the wires from the e-unit, and I'm using jumpers to the brush terminals and the field wiring terminals.

The fingers are installed correctly. Before I check the e-unit again, I should figure out if the motor is working. I'll look for a transformer.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

I'm not sure how you are attaching the leads, but be sure they are attached per the diagram I posted...one for forward operation and the other for reverse.


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## flyernut

I use a HO dc transformer for testing motors, etc. I also have a 8B and a Lionel RW I keep on hand, and plugged in for different testing.


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## Monkeyleg

Nuttin_But_Flyer, this is the diagram I have for the e-unit. Is it correct?

http://www.portlines.com/portlinesclinic10.htm


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## flyernut

Monkeyleg said:


> Nuttin_But_Flyer, this is the diagram I have for the e-unit. Is it correct?
> 
> http://www.portlines.com/portlinesclinic10.htm


That's the one I use exclusively.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

That is the correct engine wiring diagram. However, the one I posted earlier is for diagnostic testing of the motor without the tender. This helps to isolate whether any problem exists in the tender or the motor. If the motor runs properly wired in this manner, then you know the problem must be in the tender or the wiring within it.


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## Monkeyleg

I know. I tested it with jumpers as your diagram shows, and it runs really strong. Maybe as strong as new. 

When I get the new drum for the remote control unit, I'll see how it works. if it does, then I can finally sell this.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

That's encouraging news. Hope the reverse unit works great when finished. You sure you don't want to keep it Dr. Frankenstein?


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## Monkeyleg

I see no reason why it shouldn't work. The unit functioned just fine, except for the drum getting stuck because of the broken teeth.

I haven't run the train in thirty years. I don't see myself doing it again. I'm trying to get rid of stuff as I get older. Leave less for relatives to have to sort through when I die.


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## Kwikster

The unit should run fine on DC power, however the e-unit may not change directions without AC current. Although AF maybe work differently than Lionels, which I'm used to.

The hesitation and irregular running is likely due to a lack of lubrication, I'd clean it really well and oil it using plain ordinary motor oil nothing fancy needed what ever you have on hand is fine. That alone should straighten out some issues.

Running on a fixed output power supply means only one speed, and 16v should mean it should fly off the rails. I'd also suggest snapping up a good transformer before going much further, you could end up with incorrect diagnosis using DC on an AC setup. 

Carl


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