# I Have the No Engine to Add Blues



## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

I got this G35 from Mr. Muffin at York on Friday. Tried to add it, but I keep getting the NO ENGINE TO ADD message. A few times I got the CHECK TRACK, followed in a few seconds by the ENGINE ERROR message. Track voltage is 18.5. Loco switches are set to 3RAIL and DCS. I deleted another loco and it added back in first try. This is the first loco I have gotten from Mr. Muffin. Hope they have good customer service.

Forgot to mention that I cleaned the wheels and pickups. Also, this is on a test track and the only think the TIU sees.


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## Krieglok (Sep 7, 2013)

Adding deleting the other engine was a good idea. I guess this is a PS/3 loco.

I use a test track to add my engines to my remote. The few times I received a “no add” fault was when I has the wires going to the track, crossed between the transformer and the tiu. Obviously you eliminated that possibility.

Does it run conventional? Did it charge for a couple minutes before trying to add? Maybe one of the setting switches is wired backwards. Cycle them and try again.

Tom


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

Yes. It's a PS3 from the 2018V2 catalog. Seems to run OK in conventional, but could not add it no matter how the switches were arranged.

Signal strength is 10.


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## Krieglok (Sep 7, 2013)

Make sure track is clean.

I found this...

“ try to recover the engine's DCS ID#, which may have moved out of the useable range:

You must be using DCS 4.10 or higher
Make sure that no other engines are powered up
Make sure that your TIU has an ID# of "1"
Press Menu/System/Engine Setup/Recover Engine.

If the engine is recovered, attempt to add it to the DCS Remote.”

Tom


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## Krieglok (Sep 7, 2013)

Hopefully someone GRJ will chime in soon! Be patient!

Tom


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

First off, I'd move the engine to a single chunk of track with about 30 feet of wire from the track to the TIU. If you can arrange it, try using DC through a fixed channel on the TIU to that test track.

If you can't find it there, it's broken.


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## Maxum (Apr 10, 2017)

Something I found out with DCS, it's best to add them when they are the only locomotive on the track. Otherwise I get the same error messages you're getting.


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## Norton (Nov 5, 2015)

I was talking to Steve at York and he mentioned they test every engine before shipping it out. Not sure thats true in every case since I know some are dropped shipped from his distributor. In any event I believe he will make this right if you don't figure out the problem.

Pete


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

Maxum - Yes. The loco is the only thing on the test track. The only engine the TIU sees.

Tom - Engine recovery didn't work.

John - I have about 20' of 18 gauge wire between the TIU and test track and I'm using Fixed1. I hooked up my antique MRC rectifier (17 VDC) to the TIU Fixed1 IN. No luck.

When I power the remote back up, I get this screen. I think I remember seeing that screen before and it led to a remedy, but I don't recall.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

That's a weak DCS signal, it "sort of" sees the locomotive but can't complete the handshake.

Try changing the TIU channel to FIXED #2 and see if there's any change.


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

Tried Fixed2. Got the NO ENGINE TO ADD message. 

I pushed the START UP button with the screen at address 1 (as in the photo above) and the loco started. Some functions worked (DIR, soft keys, BELL, W/H) and the loco would move, but some functions (smoke on/off) didn't. Tried to delete engine from address 1, but that one doesn't show up.

I have a spare TIU and remote. I may try to see if I can add it to those.

But I have some outside stuff to get done, so I'll probably try that tomorrow when rain is expected.


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## biglionelguy (Nov 11, 2015)

As long as its in the remote assigned to address 1 it prolly wont add. You'll have to delete 1 and add it again. Mine does that sometimes where it gives me the address but no name


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## bigdodgetrain (Jun 12, 2015)

biglionelguy said:


> As long as its in the remote assigned to address 1 it prolly wont add. You'll have to delete 1 and add it again. Mine does that sometimes where it gives me the address but no name


so address 1 is not usable?


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## biglionelguy (Nov 11, 2015)

You can use address 1 all you want but if you're trying to add the loco and get the name and functionality, you will have to delete it from the remote and re-add it. It probably wont add to the remote if its in under address one since its already in there.

Sometimes with PS3 locos, I get an add engine issue if the loco im adding already has an address assigned to it that is being used by a loco already in the remote


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Adding a locomotive that has a number already in the remote should simply renumber the new locomotive.


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## biglionelguy (Nov 11, 2015)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Adding a locomotive that has a number already in the remote should simply renumber the new locomotive.


Operative word being "should" but I've seen DCS do things it shouldn't do and not do things it should do. Does your DCS system work perfectly every time?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

All the time Matt, you should know that.


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

For some reason, on my remote, the lowest address that shows up in the engine list is 3. I may just start using my spare TIU and Remote. The TIU that's currently installed needs work anyway due to a problem with the VAR1 channel.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'd certainly try a new TIU, I don't see the remote being a major player in not finding the locomotive.


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I'd certainly try a new TIU, I don't see the remote being a major player in not finding the locomotive.


The problem with the remote is that the engine is halfway in address 1. Since the engine address list on the old remote goes no lower than 3 for some reason, I can't get to it to delete it.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Did you reset the remote?


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Did you reset the remote?


No. I've never done that, but according to Barry's book, resetting will delete all the information in the remote. I figured I would try to load the new engine in the new remote. If it takes, I'll load more engines on the new one and reset the old one.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You can save the contents of the remote and then do a reset. A reset will sometimes clean up issues like this.


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

Save it using the consumer loader. Right? I haven’t used that for a while, but I have been meaning to save the remote data. I’ll have to refresh my memory on how to use it. It will be easier than loading 35 engines back into a remote one by one. Thanks.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Yes, you use the consumer loader, tether the remote, and save the database.


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## superwarp1 (Dec 13, 2016)

Wasn’t there a issue with some diesels that you had to move and reroute a wire away from the pcb board in the engine because it was killing the signal?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Yep, there was a wire that went right across the top that had to be moved for better DCS signal.


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

I backed up the remote, cleared it and restored it. Seemed a lot easier than the last time I did it (in 2015). But it didn’t do me any good. The engine list was exactly what it was before with the list going no lower than 3. Tried adding the GP35 and got NO ENGINE TO ADD.

I cleared the remote and tried again with the same results. Then I put a different engine (an SW1) on the test track and it added right away, but it added to address 11 (it’s old address before the remote was cleared) where I thought it should have been address 1 since the remote was empty.

I tried again using my new remote. The SW1 added right in (again to address 11), but the GP35 would not add.

Since the SW1 remembered it’s old address, I’m thinking the GP35 remembered it was halfway in address 1.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

If a DCS engine has an address, and that address is empty in the remote, it'll occupy it's old address. If that address is already used, then the engine will be assigned a new address, I believe the lowest one available.

The fact that it doesn't go lower than address #3 suggests an issue with the DCS Remote. However, since the other DCS engines add, that one seems to have a problem. So, in summary, you have two broken devices.


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

Actually, three broken devices. The old TIU, the old remote and the new loco.

1. I knew the TIU had a problem with an FET (since you suggested that in a previous thread), but just to add to my blues, when I took it off its mount, I heard a rattling noise. A piece of plastic had broken off one of the components. It’s never been mishandled so I thought it strange that it would break.

2. The remote has always worked fine except the disappearing addresses. I lost 1 some time ago and later lost 2. But it still adds locos (except the GP35) and does everything else it’s supposed to.

3. The GP35. I was hoping that it would show up again at address 1 on the display as in the above photo. Then maybe I could try to do a factory reset, but I’ve tried several times with the new TIU and both remotes with no luck.


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

Maybe the old remote is not broken after all.

I did a factory reset on the SW1. Then reset the old remote. Then added the SW. It went to address 1.

So you are right John. I have 2 broken devices.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Yikes, that bridge must have gotten hot. That's a fairly common part, that could be fixed.

I found it surprising that the remote did that, glad to hear at least it's working.


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

The GP35 is going back to Mr. Muffin for a refund. Shipping is on me.

And one of these days, I will take the old TIU to JW&A for repair.


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## Krieglok (Sep 7, 2013)

That stinks. MTH stuff is usually pretty reliable. 

Are you getting a replacement? Seems Mr Muffin would pay the shipping. I buy from them too and they seem to have a good business ethic.

Tom


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

It does stink. Makes me not want to buy engines at train shows.

I may get a replacement. Haven’t decided yet. Mr. Muffin’s return policy is _“The manufacturers do not pay for return shipping, so it is your responsibility to cover it. Once repaired or replaced under warranty, we will return the product to you at no cost to you.” _ I can kind of understand that. Their prices are low so there probably isn’t much margin for them. But since they sold me a defective product, I’m not happy about it. Maybe if I had an established relationship with them, they might have paid both ways. Then I would have had it repaired.

Another internet dealer I have bought quite a bit from did send me a return authorization shipping label for a problem product so they will get the bulk of my on-line engine buys.


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## Krieglok (Sep 7, 2013)

It doesn’t seem right if the engine was no good. I hate the way dealers don’t back up what they sell. 

I have had a few engines that didn’t run, but I hate returning stuff, so I try to fix it with a lot of help from people here at this forum. Usually used stuff, but I have had issues with new Lionel engines that took a lot of tweaking to get them right.

I hope everything turns out to your advantage in the end.

Tom


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## Maxum (Apr 10, 2017)

Lehigh74 said:


> The GP35 is going back to Mr. Muffin for a refund. Shipping is on me.


If I had to pay shipping to return a defective item, I would dispute it with my credit card company and find a different dealer to buy from.


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

I got a replacement at Nicholas Smith. Same engine with a different cab number. It cost me more than the one I got at York, but it works and if it stops working during the warranty period, Nicholas Smith is just a twenty minute drive away.

This loco has too much turbo whine, but not as bad as the F7. Other than the turbo whine, I like it.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Turn down the engine sounds, that might help.


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

Yep. I turn them down sometimes. The F7 is so annoying, I sometimes turn them off completely. The horn and bell still work even with the engine sounds off.


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## Maxum (Apr 10, 2017)

Lehigh74 said:


> Yep. I turn them down sometimes. The F7 is so annoying, I sometimes turn them off completely. The horn and bell still work even with the engine sounds off.


That's one of the nice things about DCS. You can set individual volumes for the different sounds.


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## Krieglok (Sep 7, 2013)

Nice looking locomotive. I am glad it worked out for you after all your trouble with the engine. 

It has great lines and the details really stand out with that paint scheme. 

May your locomotive live long and prosper! Lol

Tom


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

I’ve got the blues again. This time it’s a B&O F7 (20-20606-1). This loco was in my old remote before I reset it. I’ve run it, but not too much since I like my B&O C-Liner better (and the F7 whines too much). Three other engines loaded first time, but this guy is stubborn. Starts up in conventional but doesn’t seem to want to go anywhere. In fact, a few times on the test track it started in conventional so it’s not always seeing the watchdog. Engine recovery didn’t work. Tried cleaning the wheels. They were surprisingly filthy for something with only a few miles. No joy. I think it will be taking a trip to my friendly neighborhood MTH ASC Certified Tech.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Did you try it on a dedicated track with nothing else on the track?


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## seayakbill (Jan 16, 2016)

Doesn't the L on the screen signify that it is in Lash-up mode ? Seems that when I have some locos in Lash-up mode the L appears on the screen.

Bill


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

John - I always load new engines on a dedicated track where the TIU sees nothing else. I tried everything with the F7 that I tried with the GP-35 except using DC and using fixed 2. I don't thing those will work.

Bill - That screen was for the GP-35. For the F7 I got nothing except NO ENGINE WAS FOUND.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, I suspect it has a problem.

Did you check the obvious, the DCC/DCS switch? This has bit me a couple of times.


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

I didn't check that because it added before and ran fine. But I just checked and both the DCS and 2rail/3rail switches are correct.

I'll send you an email.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Flick the switches back and forth a few times and check it again.


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

Would have been nice if something that simple fixed it, but exercising the switches didn’t help. I also pulled the lid to see if there was a misplaced wire killing the signal as Gary mentioned in post #26. Looks OK to me.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Is this one still under warranty?


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

Yes. 20-20606-1, delivered July 2016. But I got it from Pat's Trains and I figure the fix is probably simple for an ASC tech. Probably cost less than shipping to/from Columbia, MD or Wheeling, WV.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

2016 doesn't sound like it's still under warranty. In any case, if it is a board issue, it certainly won't be cheaper to have a non-warranty repair than shipping it back!


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

Here’s the MTH policy.

_All items returned to M.T.H. for repair will be considered an Out-of-Warranty repair if that item was NOT returned within five years from the month and year of manufacture._

I’ll give it to you on Saturday. If you find it’s a bad board, I’ll talk to Pat about sending it back to him.


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

I picked up my TIU and B&O F-7 yesterday.

On the TIU, John replaced the bridge and the FET's in Variable #1.

The engine had a balky DCS/DCC switch. After John cleaned it up and reseated the connector on the PS/3 board, all was well. He had it done about a month ago, but I asked him to install the sound file from Railking B&O E-8 (30-20177-1) from 2013V2. That’s the only B&O covered wagon I found on YouTube that had decent sound. The F-7 had a shrill ear-piercing blower whine at speed that I couldn’t stand. The E-8 sound file is much better. You can hear some blower noise, but it’s much more subdued. One thing I wasn’t expecting was to hear the two E-8 engines starting up individually. My EL RK E-8 doesn’t have that. This engine will get a lot more run time now that it doesn’t hurt my ears.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Glad to see it survived the grueling trip back to your place.


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