# Evil Bay...



## bradimous1 (Mar 3, 2010)

I am trying to get a B&O Switcher from Evil Bay, but not having much luck. I have gone for 3 different ones so far, and have been really close to getting all of them. Hopefully this time is a charm. If anyone on here bought a P2k B&O switcher this past weekend, I hate you... OK, not really, but I thought I had it.


----------



## imatt88 (Jan 31, 2010)

Yeah, I hate getting sniped right at the end of the auction.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

imatt88 said:


> Yeah, I hate getting sniped right at the end of the auction.


Well why don't you snipe right back?

I watch and snipe back manually at the last 3 seconds. I use a stopwatch.:sly:

But I watch for a while from the start of the listing, sometimes I throw in a test bid to see how another bidder bids.

Then I wait till the last few seconds and move in for the kill.:sold:

It wins me stuff 90% of the times.

And if I don't it went for more money then I cared to spend on it anyway.
Most of the times another will come to auction anyway.


----------



## tooter (Feb 26, 2010)

I'm a big fan of Ebay, and have bought and sold lots of stuff on it. Bidding is lots of fun, because there's always another deal. 

And Ebay *isn't* evil... only *people* can be evil.


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I wonder how many sellers would pay for an option that the last bid has to stand for 60 seconds?


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I'll confess that I like ebay, too. But here's my latest beef ... 

The other day, one person was selling three old Lionel cars (2 Pullmans, 1 Observation), but with each as its own auction, with all three auctions ending at exactly the same time!

If somebody was interesting in buying 2 or 3 of the cars in the set, how could they confidently bid on any, knowing that they couldn't watch all three auctions in the last moments, and/or bid on all 3 at the last moments?

Arrghhhhh!

TJ


----------



## tankist (Jun 11, 2009)

yep, if i really want an item i will be sniping it. 



tjcruiser said:


> I'll confess that I like ebay, too. But here's my latest beef ...
> 
> The other day, one person was selling three old Lionel cars (2 Pullmans, 1 Observation), but with each as its own auction, with all three auctions ending at exactly the same time!
> 
> ...


how can this be? he couldn't list all 3 listing in one shot, so there has to be at least couple minutes between them .


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Tankist ...

Good question ... I have no idea how (or why!) a seller does that. All three were down to the exact same minute. (Maybe a few seconds apart, perhaps ... but the same minute.)

I don't have much SELLING ebay experience ... can a seller choose a specific "end auction time", rather than say simply 7 days from whenever he lists the item?

TJ


----------



## kootch88 (Feb 28, 2010)

If you have a start time in the future you can list 100 items that end at the same time. I just listed a couple of Katos that will start 5 pst.


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Kootch,

Thanks for the ebay listing info. I was quite curious about that.

So ... just out of curiosity, why are you choosing to list your items at exactly the same time (and, accordingly, having the auctions end at exactly the same time). Doesn't that detract a bit from an potential buyer who's interesting in bidding on more than one item?

Maybe stagger them by a few minutes?

Set me straight ...

TJ


----------



## kootch88 (Feb 28, 2010)

tjcruiser said:


> Kootch,
> 
> Thanks for the ebay listing info. I was quite curious about that.
> 
> ...


You are right. I was in a big rush to get out this morning and I forgot to stagger them like I normally do. I just edited the listing. Thanks for the reminding me.


----------



## Boston&Maine (Dec 19, 2007)

T-Man said:


> I wonder how many sellers would pay for an option that the last bid has to stand for 60 seconds?


But that would mean that a lot of the steals would disappear for us buyers


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

That is why I bid what it is worth. The snipe can be fun but I feel the wasted time. If someone wants it, bid on it. I am surprised they haven't done anything about it. The whole thing is geared for the seller. Mystery bidders.The Sunday night ending. Just they way they separate lots makes me minimize my bidding. I guess it is just give and take.


----------



## kootch88 (Feb 28, 2010)

It is an auction, go to any auction and there is no limit as to when and how long an auction is allowed. The big thing is to decide what something is worth to you. My biggest gripe is the ridiculous shipping people charge as a way to make up for low sales prices. I just tried to make an offer on a repair manual for my atv on CD and they want $4.95 for shipping. The guy said that is what it costs to copy and ship! Where is he shipping from, the Somalia?


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

T-Man said:


> That is why I bid what it is worth. The snipe can be fun but I feel the wasted time. If someone wants it, bid on it. I am surprised they haven't done anything about it. The whole thing is geared for the seller. Mystery bidders.The Sunday night ending. Just they way they separate lots makes me minimize my bidding. I guess it is just give and take.


So in the end lets say that you bid $40 on something and I come and snipe it for $41. 

What your saying is that even if I put a $41 bid on it seconds after you put a $40 bid on it you wouldn't have countered anyway since you put your limit on it?

So snipe or no snipe I would have won it. As you all ready put your max in on what you thought it was worth.

Me I don't bid till the end so it doesn't drive the price up. And a last second bid may win or may not win because of what someone else might have bid more anyway.

I agree you on mystery bidders or some who look new to bidding. It might be someone just trying to get more $ for the seller.

Time ending? Thats up to the seller and with him listing so close, hes counting on you to put a larger bid as you would like all of the set. When I see something like that I just don't bid on it as I would want the whole set or none. 
Unless I am just interested in one particular item.

I like sniping.

TJ you know you can get a snipe program that will let you bid on all of the items that are listed so close together. Even if your computer is turned off.
There's a free version that lets you snipe up to a certain amount during a week.
Another version you can buy that lets you snipe unlimited per week.

Though even with snipe you have to put in a max of what your willing to spend.


So in the end snipe or no snipe your still putting in the max you will spend.


----------



## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

Personally...I like to catch one early, get the "lead" position with a low bid, and then see if someone tops me. If they do, I leave it alone till the last minute. Let them feel confident I gave up. In the interim, I'll look for the same item in another auction. If I don't find it, I'll decide my max, snipe it as late as I dare and see what happens. I do not let myself get drawn into bidding wars during or at the end of the auction.

If no one tops me during the auction, I assume someone will snipe me at the end. So, if I have $4 as a leading bid but would be willing to pay a max of $20, I'll wait a couple of days and increase my bid to $20. That way, the last-minute sniper may top my $4 with a $10 bid, but won't have time to increment himself up above $20 during the last 10 seconds. If he wants to go over my maximum bid, more power to him: he can have it. One less competitor on the next go-round and he's paid more than the item was worth, in my eyes. That means he has less money to play with on the next bid we both want.


----------



## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

big ed said:


> Well why don't you snipe right back?
> 
> *I watch and snipe back manually at the last 3 seconds. I use a stopwatch*.:sly:
> 
> ...


I think that's a good strategy, but I'm dubious about the 3 seconds. I understand it works for you, and that's what counts. I'm just doubtful that the combination of delays between my pc and ebay's server wouldn't screw up that tight a schedule. I'm more comfortable with 5 seconds, 10 if I know I'm not gonna up my bid, anyway. I lose occasionally, but it's to guys who bid beyond what I'm willing to pay.


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Reckers said:


> Personally...I like to catch one early, get the "lead" position with a low bid, and then see if someone tops me. If they do, I leave it alone till the last minute. Let them feel confident I gave up. In the interim, I'll look for the same item in another auction. If I don't find it, I'll decide my max, snipe it as late as I dare and see what happens. I do not let myself get drawn into bidding wars during or at the end of the auction.
> 
> If no one tops me during the auction, I assume someone will snipe me at the end. So, if I have $4 as a leading bid but would be willing to pay a max of $20, I'll wait a couple of days and increase my bid to $20. That way, the last-minute sniper may top my $4 with a $10 bid, but won't have time to increment himself up above $20 during the last 10 seconds. If he wants to go over my maximum bid, more power to him: he can have it. One less competitor on the next go-round and he's paid more than the item was worth, in my eyes. That means he has less money to play with on the next bid we both want.


I did that with an engine, except that I led with 30 dollars. The sniper increased on increments of 10 and he lost by less than 5 before time ran out.
No deal that day but I had a victory dance.


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Big Ed,

Thanks for tip / info on "sniping software". I'm no "power bidder", but there have been times where I've been hunting for a pair of things with auctions ending at exactly the same time. Maybe a software like you suggest could help. I'll check into it.

Thanks!

TJ


----------



## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

*LOL* Good for you! I had one where my visible bid was something like $12.23; my maximum bid was $22.23. That's what I thought, anyway, but I fumble-fingered and actually had a top bid of $122.23! Ended up paying about $18 and change, but it taught me to take a little more time and check my figures.:laugh:


----------



## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

tjcruiser said:


> Big Ed,
> 
> Thanks for tip / info on "sniping software". I'm no "power bidder", but there have been times where I've been hunting for a pair of things with auctions ending at exactly the same time. Maybe a software like you suggest could help. I'll check into it.
> 
> ...


TJ,

The sniping software may be worthwhile. If I were in that situation, though, I'd have two windows open, with one bid in one window and the other in the second window. I'd do my "snipe" on one at 10 seconds and on the other at 5seconds. You can set up each bid to where all you have to do is hit "enter" to send it in.

Another thing---don't trust Ebay to keep your window active. I've lost a few bids because the connection to ebay inexplicably was lost when I sent in my snipe. I'd suggest that when you have 2 to 4 minutes remaining, you sign off and log in, again, on every ebay window. That seems to prevent the last minute lock-out.


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Reckers said:


> TJ,
> 
> I'd suggest that when you have 2 to 4 minutes remaining, you sign off and log in, again, on every ebay window.



Hey Reck,

I LIKE that two window idea and signing out/in ... good advice!

Thanks,
TJ


----------



## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

Any time, TJ. Buy all the O gauge you want! *L*


----------



## stationmaster (Dec 7, 2008)

Anton, when placing a listing, you, as a seller, have the option of a "starting time". That is how sellers are able to list items with the same ending time. 

I'm a sniper. I do not bid until 5 seconds left. Pretty successful at it. In fact, I imagine I'm about 75% effective. But, there are times I get on a roll and win, or lose, everything I bid on. It's the law of averages.

Been pretty lucky so far. But I'm having a heck of a time getting more G-scale track. Can't seem to "buy" an auction on that item.

Bob


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Heres one TJ....http://www.auctionstealer.com/home.cfm

Do a search of free sniping programs. Theres a bunch now.

I don't like to use them. I like to do it the last few seconds.

And if I loose fine, there's plenty of more stuff that comes along.
(I buy too much now anyway!)

I put a limit on what I want to bid and that's it, either I win or loose.


Reckers I did that one time too a long time ago.:laugh:

instead of $44 it came up $4444!
I was sweating bullets I ended up getting it for under the $44 as no one else went higher.
I learned to check the $ amount after that.:laugh: 

If you catch it with some time to spare you know you can cancel the bid and rebid again.


----------



## bradimous1 (Mar 3, 2010)

all you snipers in here... one of you probably stole my beauty!!!


----------



## stationmaster (Dec 7, 2008)

Nope, B&O is not one of my roads. I did snipe a couple of switchers, both P2K, one for NKP and one for Wabash. Stole them both, not only from others, but the price for each was less than $20 plus shipping.

I do have some B&O for display though. Three of the "Presidents" passenger trains and another standard passenger train headed by a pair of P2K E8's.

Bob


----------



## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

bradimous1 said:


> all you snipers in here... one of you probably stole my beauty!!!


Hey, Brad....at least you know it wasn't me! :laugh: I only steal from Stillakid!


----------



## bradimous1 (Mar 3, 2010)

Well... your methods work... I waited until it said 15 secs left, then pounced. Can't wait to see my treasure. It isn't much, but it is going to be the beginning of a project. It is an Athearn Undecorated SW 1000 HO Switcher Shell. I will be decorating it with a logo from a business my buddy owns.


----------



## stationmaster (Dec 7, 2008)

15 seconds? I bid with about 5 seconds left. Either I win or I lose, but no one will get to bid to beat me. The bid will have to have been made before I bid. But, I have the satisfaction of making the winner pay more. Little solace, I know, if I wanted the item really bad. But, other deals are just around the corner.

Congrats on the "snipe' job.

Bob


----------



## bradimous1 (Mar 3, 2010)

it was my first snipe job... I will get better at it with time .


----------



## bradimous1 (Mar 3, 2010)

I am the WORST EVER at ebay... THE WORST... AGHHHHHHHH.

so today, I was like, you know what, I think an airbrush kit would be pretty cool... I don't need anything special, just something to have some fun with... if I like it, I can get something better down the line... if it turns out I really suck at it and I will never be good at it, I didn't invest too much in it... 

so, I am watching an auction on ebay and nobody has bid on this kit... it seems like a neat little kit, nothing special. I am waiting it out, trying to be sly like you guys, when it gets down to 10 seconds... I'm like pounce, now... go, go, go... needless to say, by the time I submitted it, the auction was over, and my poor little kit was gone forever... nobody ever bid on it or anything.

 woe is me


----------



## stationmaster (Dec 7, 2008)

Brad, if you are looking for an inexpensive, decent air brush try this one at Harbor Freight. I've got one and for the money, it's pretty hard to beat it.

Here's a link: http://www.harborfreight.com/deluxe-airbrush-kit-95810.html

Bob


----------



## bradimous1 (Mar 3, 2010)

Thanks Bob... I will check that out... you have been a wealth of info today. I really appreciate it.


----------



## stationmaster (Dec 7, 2008)

Well, Brad, it just goes to show how much my medications help me. lol And I've probably forgotten more than I can remember over my 50 years in the hobby.

Let me add a bit to my critique of the air brush from Harbor Freight. The only drawback, if you want to call it that, is that it is not gravity fed. Brushes, usually higher priced like the Iwata, are gravity fed. Being so, these brushes do not have to "load". That is, paint does not have to fill the siphon tube and the brush like on the HB brush. Nor does the HF brush paint as fine a line as some. But, for weathering, full body painting, an just general painting, it's great. There are (5)airbrushes on my bench((2)Paasche, (1)Badger, (1)Iwata and the HB), each having a different use and different setups. I use the HB brush more than the others. It also seems to be a clone of the Badger Anthem, so much so, that parts are interchangeable. And it is a double action brush, which is good.

And for $20 it is a steal, IMO. And it's on sale right now!!!!

Bob


----------



## bradimous1 (Mar 3, 2010)

I saw that it is on sale... as for the gravity fed airbrushes, I looked at those (and yes, seemed much more expensive) and my first reaction was that they looked like they would be harder to steady when painting... seems to me, like the weight of the paint and jar above the brush, could throw you off a tiny bit. I understand that it doesn't weigh much, but when painting such tiny parts like trains, I would think any help you can get to be more steady, is what you are looking for. 

I could be way off on this though, as I know that I would have to tape all details that I didn't want painted and that the weight may be that minimal that it wouldn't affect at all.


----------



## stationmaster (Dec 7, 2008)

I don't notice the balance of any air brush much, though I do grip a couple a bit differently at times. But, I've been using them for quite a while(I used to paint motor cycle tanks and helmets and racing helmets as a side). That's the reason for my large assortment of brushes. I rarely use the bottles unless I am painting something large like a backdrop, balance doesn't really matter then. Even so, when I begin detailing and highlighting, I use the cup. Just handier, I think. Sure, I have to "reload" the gun more often, but I really don't notice any inconvenience as it allows me a bit of time to critique what I've done and fix it quickly if need be.

As for my Iwata, I won it at a train show as a door prize. I wouldn't have it had it not been such. Nice brush, indeed, but not the $200 , or so, to buy one.

One other suggestion I would like to make. When you get a compressor, get one that is oiless and has some sort of storage tank. Sometimes the surge of the compressor will affect the brush. And, of course, it goes without saying, you will need a decent regulator and maybe a moisture trap.

Bob


----------



## bradimous1 (Mar 3, 2010)

that sounds like a fun way to make a living!!!!

do you have any recommendations on paint... so far, they will be used on plastic train bodies.


----------



## stationmaster (Dec 7, 2008)

I use Floquil, almost exclusively. And I apply a light(as in thin) coat of primer unless I will be using the color the train is molded in as one of my colors. Even then, sometimes I will mask that part off.

I use acrylics as much as possible if I can't find the color in Floquil.. Easy cleanup and readily available. Available at most stores, including WalMart.

Bob


----------



## bradimous1 (Mar 3, 2010)

nice... again, thank you for all of your help today.

I think before the day is out, I will be the proud owner of an airbrush set that will be being prepared to be mailed to me


----------



## stationmaster (Dec 7, 2008)

I'll send you my bill................

Which brush did you decide on? 

Bob


----------



## bradimous1 (Mar 3, 2010)

OK... make it to the attn of TJ... he'll take care of it for you.

I am going with your suggestion... can't wait for it to get here... headed to WalMart shortly to pick up some paint.


----------



## stationmaster (Dec 7, 2008)

When buying paint at WallyWorld, I buy the larger bottles of the earth tones, gray, black, and white that I use in weathering. I other colors, the ones I use less, I buy smaller bottles. If they have the thinner/cleaner grab a large bottle of that too. Make sure the bottles say "acrylic". make sure that you follow the directions for the airbrush for the viscocity of the paint. Too thick and it won't work, too thin and you have a runny, watery mess on your hands.

I think you'll enjoy the HF airbrush. Especially at that price. If you don't like it, I'll buy it from you, that is how confident I am of your liking it. 

When you "practice", grab a piece of wood, an old train car body, or a piece of plastic. Any old piece of "trash" that is not going to be missed. Practice with the various settings, adjusting the needle forward and back. You may want to invest in two other tips, a .3mm and a .7mm, I believe the brush comes with a .5mm. Completely different worlds, seemingly, when you change tips and needles. The .5mm is fine for most scenarios. HF also sells a gadget that holds your airbrush(es), I think it runs about $10, pretty useful deal.

Let me know how you do with it. I think you'll come to the conclusion that the airbrush is the best $15 you ever spent on trains.

You'll be a pro in a week.

Bob


----------



## bradimous1 (Mar 3, 2010)

I took a large cardboard box and set up a station to spray in after I purchased it... I can't wait to try it out. I am sure that I will enjoy it, but thanks for the offer if I don't like it. I will have to show you some of my art work after I get it.


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

As someone who has never tried an airbrush, I'm amazed to learn here that one can be bought that inexpensively. Amazing!

Thanks,

TJ


----------



## stationmaster (Dec 7, 2008)

Yep, TJ, you can get the whole set up for under $75, including compressor. That's as good a deal as you'll find anywhere.

Bob


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I have a construction compressor ... Porter Cable, up to 120 psi. Is that much too big for an airbrush, or could I use it and simply dial down the output pressure?


----------



## stationmaster (Dec 7, 2008)

That's fine as long as it is oilless. And it may be a tad noisy. I have a small(ish) compressor that fits under my workbench in the house. A 2g or 3g, twin tank job made by Craftsman. I mounted a light switch to the bench to turn it on and off. Hard piped my regulator and mounted it so I could adjust my pressure.

If the unit were an inch wider it wouldn't fit in the space provided.

Bob


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Thanks for the info!!!

TJ


----------



## stationmaster (Dec 7, 2008)

Almost forgot....You should have a moisture trap. I didn't when I first started airbrushing and soon could see "water spots" on some of the motorcycle tanks I painted. Water droplets would travel to the brush a screw up a perfectly good paint job.

Bob


----------



## bradimous1 (Mar 3, 2010)

good to know Bob

also, is Testors the same as Floquil... the Walthers catalog has them seperate... but it you go to the site, it is Testors.com... thought it was kind of strange, but he color chart is identical... at least it looks that way to me (note: I am color blind)


----------



## stationmaster (Dec 7, 2008)

Testors is an oil based enamel, Floquil is an acrylic. Completely different. I buy much of my paint at WalMart and Hobby Lobby. You should also be able to find paints at places like Michael's and other hobby/craft stores as well as your local train store.

The trick is to apply the paint to a clean surface. Sometimes priming is necessary. I clean my cars with a light detergent to remove mold releasers and hand oils. Sometimes a bit harsher method is needed and I use 71% isopropyl alcohol, though you must be VERY careful not to overdo it as the lettering may come off. 

Bob


----------



## bradimous1 (Mar 3, 2010)

http://www.testors.com/category/136648/Acrylic_Paints 

this is for the Floquil paints, and you can see it is at testors.com. Just thought it was interesting.


----------



## therailchannel (May 18, 2010)

When using eBay's listing program, Turbo Lister, the auctions are all uploaded at the same time and it costs extra to schedule the start times. If someone has 10 or more auctions going up at a time, it is just more convenient and much cheaper to have them all go up at once and thus end at the approximate same time.


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

To all sniper fans, listen up. I finally decided to get trailing trucks for the 5690 engine. I found the set, with screws and a drawbar. About 5 options were listed. Average was 23 bucks. some had higher shipping costs. I settled for a three day wait, bid a 6.99 with 13.13. backup and 7.50 shipping. The same guy had the same thing ending a half hour later. It had one bidder at 6.99. who upped his bid to something. Sooooo 3 seconds left a guy with over 1000 purchases gets it . I say fine, I drove you over twenty bucks to get it. Now I visit the next auction and place 13.87. Low and behold this guy who has 144 purshases gave up at $8.75. There, I sit till the end of the auction. I chickened out and went to 16.00 but no one bid. So I get the auction for 16.25, 3 dollars and 75 cents under my estimation. So does it pay to snipe or bid the worth of an item? I am just happy the 1000 bid guy didn't raise me. He had the opportunity.


----------



## stationmaster (Dec 7, 2008)

First define worth................. Then you've answered your question. 

There have been time that I throw in a bid near end time just to see where I'm at, bump the guy a couple of times, then snipe it at the end. Or if I see it's over bid, I'll bump it once just for giggles. 

And I've bid higher than value when the piece is rare and not often found, or I need/want it. It just depends on my mood, my need, my want, and my pocketbook. I've been in a slump lately, not winning as much. But, the winners are paying a premium. My only solace in losing.

Bob


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

No argument there. I was bidding on a common part. 5 auctions had ended and another 3 were listed. I think my point is that e bay has made it easy. It shows the availability of a particular item. I know the 675 and the 224 are not easy engines to buy for some strange reason. Prices are generally lower than "used retail" for what I get

There are exceptions of course. I get the bid fever too


----------

