# Can Motor or Refurb Orig



## bobbill (Dec 31, 2015)

Re 370 toying with idea of converting to can motor with Dallee as opposed to tune-up to original and adding Dallee reversing unit. 

I have little or no knowledge of AF trains. I began with 322 set given to me in 1952 and proceeding to learn slowly from info and my mistakes. Thanks.


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## 2genflyers (Jan 14, 2013)

Keeping the original motor keeps the loco... well, original. They tend to run ridiculously fast at top speed. WAY faster than scale speed. If that's what you like well then keep the original motor.

On the other hand if you get a can motor, especially if you get the 1/2 speed motor, your loco will run more smoothly at slower (i.e. scale speeds) Full voltage with the 1/2 speed motor will get you about 60-70 mph, which incidentally was just about full normal operating speed for the prototypical Hudson. The Hudson's ran up to 70 and the Pacifics were a bit slower, 50-60. Ironically even that speed seems slow compared to what most of us see on operating layouts where many operators are pushing the sound-barrier. It's great for the kids... they want to see FAST.... but just not realistic.
Wiring in the can motor is easy-peasy with DC... but I suspect you are planning on running AC. If so, make sure you get the inverter. The instructions are a bit vague, and the pics are terrible, but I've done two, and didn't blow anything up. If I can do it... anybody can. Just take you time. With both of mine I kept the original reverse units as they were working fine.

If you do the Dallee AND the 1/2 speed can motor you will get really good reliable operation from it. If you couple that with a modern transformer then you'll get some truly wonderful low speed operation from it.

Again, it all comes down to what you want from it.

PS - it's all reversible so if you want to make it original some day... no problem. Ironically I've got a Hudson on the work bench now. It was a real basket case. About 30% of the paint was gone, two wheels were so loose you could "shake" them off. Broken wheel insulators meant the wheels were shorting on the chassis, many other problems. NO HOPE of keeping it original so the plan is to make it what I want. Might paint it as a Southern Crescent!
Any votes for something else?


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## 2genflyers (Jan 14, 2013)

Ooops.... Rectifier... not "inverter".


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## bobbill (Dec 31, 2015)

Very good and much thanks...am all over both...


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Bobbill, if I understand your first post correctly it is a 370 GP7 you have. The 370 has link coupler bars and no PullMor tires. A can motor conversion is available but the chassis requires custom machining and it is not strictly a half speed conversion but the low speed operation is improved. It is also costs more than the 370 costs to purchase. It is $125 for the conversion, it may need a chassis rebushing which is another $45. Now we have a great running engine with no pulling power. PullMor wheels can be added but they also require changing he sideframes to the later design with the sliding shoe pickup. Otherwise it will stall in the turnouts with the PullMor wheels. Realistically this is between $150 to $200 to do right, a lot more than a steam engine can motor conversion.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Keep it original, just my opinion.


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## bobbill (Dec 31, 2015)

Thanks 2genflyers, Tom and Flyernut...you got me thinking about having a fellow do tune-up on motor and me changing to a Dallee later. 

It is a link-wire engine. Used to pull work train that has flat-car caboose, Brown hoist and gondola car or two, couple metal heavy cars, and it began to not do so well.

Like I said, I know squat, so was looking to put it back to old play. Did not need special wheels etc, so was looking around for what to do, and I read somewhere here a can motor was the way to go. 

I have learned to take my time, so why I asked.

Now am thinking to keep as new, but maybe add Dallee thingy and add axle bearings to be sure. Maybe add Dallee to two steamers too.

Sound like a plan?


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## 2genflyers (Jan 14, 2013)

Bobill.... I missed the "370" comment. Thought you were needing help on the 322. This issue is an ENTIRELY different beast on the AF jeeps. Yes,,, the conversion to can motor is much more expensive and DOES require a modification to the unit. The biggest problem with the old jeeps is as someone mentioned... the wheel bushings. If it runs MUCH better in one direction that the other it is likely a bushing issue. Portlines can replace the bushings for a reasonable ($?) and it will much it a MUCH better runner. That might be the best "bang-for-the-buck". One way or the other the jeeps run better fast than slow. Limited pickups and limited traction mean they simply run better with lighter loads and at high speeds especially through turnouts where dead spots are common.


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## bobbill (Dec 31, 2015)

2genflyers said:


> Bobill.... I missed the "370" comment. Thought you were needing help on the 322. This issue is an ENTIRELY different beast on the AF jeeps. Yes,,, the conversion to can motor is much more expensive and DOES require a modification to the unit. The biggest problem with the old jeeps is as someone mentioned... the wheel bushings. If it runs MUCH better in one direction that the other it is likely a bushing issue. Portlines can replace the bushings for a reasonable ($?) and it will much it a MUCH better runner. That might be the best "bang-for-the-buck". One way or the other the jeeps run better fast than slow. Limited pickups and limited traction mean they simply run better with lighter loads and at high speeds especially through turnouts where dead spots are common.


Thing is, I think the engine wheels whatever, shorts out and stops cuz of wear. But, speed is same in both directions...though it never ran through a T/O at speed without derailing. So I figured time has caught up with the thing, but I do like it cause it fits the work train even with its metal cars so well. But now the engine has lost its drive.

I looked up the can motor thing on one site and it looked like a $100 plus the cost of the Dallee...frame drilling included. But they wanted the old parts too, so that may be part of it.

I was hoping to salvage the motor to make an S gauge streetcar.

Appreciate the input, I am not rushing into it by any means. I have no clue as I said.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

In the case of the 370 I am with flyernut, just keep it original and enjoy it. They are good runners if not pulling more than 5 cars. Unlike the 371 and later design knuckle coupler diesels I have never had a 370 that needed a chassis rebushing. A careful cleaning lubrication along with adjusting the brush spring position and tension keep these running like new. I had one that also required adjusting the field positioning screws as well.
I can pull 5 cars with mine on Gilbert track. with a 6th car the link coupler bar pulls the lead car front truck off the track in the curves. It happens with both the 370's I have in use. I have a loop of track on the floor using SHS 29" radius curves. The 370 will pull 7 freight cars around that loop with no problems. The 370 will not stall if the track and wheels are clean. just take off the truck sideframes, 2 small screws, and it is easy to completely clean the wheels.
I have the Dallee units in a couple of my Flyer steam engines. The are quiet and it is nice that the engines always start in forward. For example if you have a talking station the resistor is not needed to keep voltage on the reverse unit when the station stops the train. it is also nice when things like block semaphores are used. I never liked locking the reverse units in forward.


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## bobbill (Dec 31, 2015)

AmFlyer said:


> In the case of the 370 I am with flyernut, just keep it original and enjoy it. They are good runners if not pulling more than 5 cars. Unlike the 371 and later design knuckle coupler diesels I have never had a 370 that needed a chassis rebushing. A careful cleaning lubrication along with adjusting the brush spring position and tension keep these running like new. I had one that also required adjusting the field positioning screws as well.
> I can pull 5 cars with mine on Gilbert track. with a 6th car the link coupler bar pulls the lead car front truck off the track in the curves. It happens with both the 370's I have in use. I have a loop of track on the floor using SHS 29" radius curves. The 370 will pull 7 freight cars around that loop with no problems. The 370 will not stall if the track and wheels are clean. just take off the truck sideframes, 2 small screws, and it is easy to completely clean the wheels.
> I have the Dallee units in a couple of my Flyer steam engines. The are quiet and it is nice that the engines always start in forward. For example if you have a talking station the resistor is not needed to keep voltage on the reverse unit when the station stops the train. it is also nice when things like block semaphores are used. I never liked locking the reverse units in forward.


Thanks. I will clean the frames, keep it simple and forget the can in the diesel but might 
can" the Atlantic just for fun...

You dodgers have been a wonderful help.

Much obliged. I hope I can return the favor.


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