# New To Model Railroading and need some Advice



## BigTank216

Hello All My Names Jon & Im New To Model Railroading Well Im Searching Around For And Good Entry Level Engine & Cars. However I Am Toying With The Idea Of And Deicated Amtrak Display And Plan To Make And Model Building Of My Cities Amtrak Station . In Short I Been Looking Around At Different Models But I Cant Find Any Deminsions To Refference Off, Of Such As (HxWXL) Of And HO Scale Train Ok These Are Ones Im Interrested in, Amtrak #517 RailKing(R) Scale GE Dash 8-40BW w/Proto-Sound 2.0, Smoke & DCS Walthers Part # 507-30200531 & HO Scale Amtrak Superliner II Diner 
Phase 4B - Walthers #932-16132 If Anyone Own These Can You Help With Deminsions Or Somthing Simlar To Those Because Honestly I Know Nothing About Scale Size I've Been Researching Locomotives And Seen Various Models But Non Give Deminsions; But I Know Ho Scale Very Popular


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## inxy

The below site will give you some comparisons between "O", "HO" and "N" scale:
http://www.trainsetsonly.com/page/TSO/CTGY/Scales

O and HO are popular with O models being the bigger of the two. Choice depends of size of layout, your comfort with smaller things and really whatever you like. In a 4ft x 8ft foot layout you can cram in more track and accessories with "HO" than with "O" as "HO" is the smaller scale. "O" scale is 1:48 and "HO" is 1:87.

I lived in Cleveland for thirty years. Got tired of the winters and moved to Fla. 

I forgot, welcome to the board. For help and information look here. All members are ready to lend a hand.

B


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## BigTank216

Lol What Winter Our Winter has gone south lol but hey thank you , Personal im not build a huge layout what im doing is and display cabinet (L)6ft x 2ft(W) With And Station & Platform & Incoming Amtrak Train With Trees And Pavement and parking lot Right Now Im Working On The Cabinet And Building The Station Till i Decide On Scale Og Train You WasVery Helpful And Im Go Shoot You Some Pictures And add You If Thats Ok


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## rogruth

BigTank216 said:


> Lol What Winter Our Winter has gone south lol but hey thank you , Personal im not build a huge layout what im doing is and display cabinet (L)6ft x 2ft(W) With And Station & Platform & Incoming Amtrak Train With Trees And Pavement and parking lot Right Now Im Working On The Cabinet And Building The Station Till i Decide On Scale Og Train You WasVery Helpful And Im Go Shoot You Some Pictures And add You If Thats Ok



Huh?What?
Build station then decide scale?
Have fun.hwell::laugh:


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## Kwikster

It's best to choose scale to model first as they will not interchange between them. Remember the term HO actually means half O scale. With HO you'll get more bang for your buck in what you plan to do, however O will be more visible across the room.

Carl


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## Big Ed

It sounds like N should be his choice.
If I understand what he wants to do?


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## rogruth

Ed,

You understand that?Really?

I don't understand most of what he posted.


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## New Berlin RR

Ho scale....D all the above?


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## Big Ed

rogruth said:


> Ed,
> 
> You understand that?Really?
> 
> I don't understand most of what he posted.


I took a wild guess of what he wants to accomplish.
I could be wrong.


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## brylerjunction

even bablefish or google couldnt translate this post for me


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## Kwikster

By taking this "HO Scale Amtrak Superliner II Diner" from his post I'd be more willing to say he's wanting to go HO.

Carl


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## BigTank216

ok im sorry if confused everyone , to be clear im new to this and planning 4x8 layout , im going with the HO scale , thing i want to do is build and amtrak station to HO scale , now far az for train model im still looking and trying to decide, so i dont want to build and model from ground up and it to big for HO train scale so i figured id start with the building of the 4x8 table & track layout then start buying all my rolling stock RTR out the box


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## New Berlin RR

ok......so if you want HO scale, then stick with it, you will need a passenger station, you may have to custom fab a bit to get it to what you want, but there are plunty of sites and people here who can help you find/sell you Ho scale items! like Bryler junction (sorry for got his name) heck even NIMT (sean) could even help ya out!!


but first thing is first, you need to sitdown and look at your avalible space and plan your layout table/bench/what ever you wanna call it in the space you have and design your layout how you want your track to be, then gradually proceed from there...


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## Kwikster

To aid with track planning I'd get Anyrail. It's a great program and the full version is 60 bucks. You can try it free but with a lot of limitations. Makes it easy to figure out a good working track plan.

Carl


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## BigTank216

First Off Thank you for all the advice so let me get this straight; First Thing is to decide on Model Scale (im a HO fan) so that what im running with; no2 look see area i got to work with (that i did) therefore im doing and 4x8 table with and portable side yard to store unused cars that i can connect & remove; no3 Obtain some type software to plan track layout; az for my station i do plan to build it from scratch i got coulpe pictures of our station i can go off of my thing is buying proper materials, i have built couple cabinets but nothing of this scale but it shouldnt be big deal cause i got better than average wood skills but nothing that compare to a master craftsman and plan to have one industerial struture and 2 or three others and maybe a road im sure things will change az im getting into it but this big project that i never done before and should be extra fun & long hours lol


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## Big Ed

BigTank216 said:


> First Off Thank you for all the advice so let me get this straight; First Thing is to decide on Model Scale (im a HO fan) so that what im running with; no2 look see area i got to work with (that i did) therefore im doing and 4x8 table with and portable side yard to store unused cars that i can connect & remove; no3 Obtain some type software to plan track layout; az for my station i do plan to build it from scratch i got coulpe pictures of our station i can go off of my thing is buying proper materials, i have built couple cabinets but nothing of this scale but it shouldnt be big deal cause i got better than average wood skills but nothing that compare to a master craftsman and plan to have one industerial struture and 2 or three others and maybe a road im sure things will change az im getting into it but this big project that i never done before and should be extra fun & long hours lol



Hey guys Bigtank sent me a PM asking what was the best wood to use to make some buildings. 
I have only built buildings from kits and have worked with styrene sheets.
I got one scratch built with the HO roundhouse and I used balsa wood.
I don't know if that was the best wood to use but it worked for me.

Can an "expert" scratch builder of structures (buildings) give Big tank some advice of the best wood to use? And maybe some details on how to go about doing it?


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## New Berlin RR

ED Im no "expert" but my grandpa (Opa in german) has his own work shop in his basement that I would always spend time in and any light duty wood is ok, granted 2x4s are best (for indoor use if non treated, if it will be out doors then treat it even if theres a small remote possibility of use out doors) now since were talking small scale smaller thinner pieces of wood should do, like balsa wood and plywood and things like that!


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## Big Ed

New Berlin RR said:


> ED Im no "expert" but my grandpa (Opa in german) has his own work shop in his basement that I would always spend time in and any light duty wood is ok, granted 2x4s are best (for indoor use if non treated, if it will be out doors then treat it even if theres a small remote possibility of use out doors) now since were talking small scale smaller thinner pieces of wood should do, like balsa wood and plywood and things like that!


2x4's? 
He wants to scratch build a station in HO.
I like how styrene works, I like it a lot better then wood.

Daveinthehat could answer him correct I think his is wood? I would have to go back and reread his build thread.

Hey Big Tank did you see Daves builds?
check them out maybe you can pickup some ideals from him.
Dave is good.:thumbsup:

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=11188&highlight=davetown

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=9225

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=9159


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## BigTank216

Yo Thanks For The Help.
And Yes I Seen Dave's. All I Can Say (That's Raw) Mannnn.
The Brick Art's Amazing!
And Yes I'm Going To Stick With Wood For Now. But I Think I Have
To Fabricate My Door Casing Out The Styrene Like You Did Your Work.
Because I Can't Find Right Door's Or Casing. But I Found Some Great
Products, Made By Midwest So I Just Order Some Project Boards From Them


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## Big Ed

BigTank216 said:


> Yo Thanks For The Help.
> And Yes I Seen Dave's. All I Can Say (That's Raw) Mannnn.
> The Brick Art's Amazing!
> And Yes I'm Going To Stick With Wood For Now. But I Think I Have
> To Fabricate My Door Casing Out The Styrene Like You Did Your Work.
> Because I Can't Find Right Door's Or Casing. But I Found Some Great
> Products, Made By Midwest So I Just Order Some Project Boards From Them



Sorry Jon, I thought we could get some help here on the subject.
I guess no one scratch builds anything here?

If I come across something I will post it here.


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## BigTank216

Yeah I Guess Not. But You Gotta Rememeber , Im A Rookie/Newbie & Gotta Earn My Stripes lol -- But Yeah Thanks I Keep Looking Else Where, Hopefully I Stumble On Something


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## Carl

Maybe I can help......I scratch build my buildings using strip wood from Midwest Products Company and Northeastern Scale Lumber.....both sell what they call "scale lumber" in various dimensions. Both also sell 3" wide x +/-11" long sheets of various types of siding.

If the thought is about what facility to build (size and style), an Internet search for train stations will turn up a number of hits that could provide excellent ideas. Another thought is to check some of the on-line model train shops that sell kit and pre-built structures. And, lastly, there are a number of model railroad magazines that have great reference material that may answer your questions.

I hope this helps and good luck.


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## BigTank216

Got You .. Enter (Ho Train Stations) It Just sucks Cause I .. Bsically gotta Order Everything Offline .. Cause We Got Only 2 Hobby Shops In My Area .. And Choices Limited To Hobby Town USA & The Train Depot .. I Recently Placed An Order With Walther's & The Train Depot .. But Can You Answer This; Is Walther's Going out Of Business? Because i See Alot Of Their Stuff Being Phased out


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## BigTank216

Question; What do all you people recommend, code 100 or code 83 HO track?


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## Carl

May I suggest that you take a moment and go by your local hobby shop and see what they have in the way of train stations. Is Walther's going out of business...probably not, but like everyone else in the hobby at this time of the year, inventory is low (also impacted by the slow buying caused by the economy). Have another internet search thought for you, try "plans for railroad station". If you have a railroad that you are going to model, suggest you try the on-line site for historic society for that railroad.
The local hobby shop might well have a low cost manual of scratch building.

My own experience, after some 5+ years of modeling, has shown me that it takes time and effort to get a good picture of what you want to build, then comes the time to make a scale drawing (maybe not to detailed) from your picture. It all takes time to do right.

Right now, I am working on a horse drawn wagon that used by oil companies to deliver product to their customers. To get as right as is could, I went to museum that displays oil industry "stuff". They allowed me to take measurements and pictures. From that I have converted the dimensions to the scale I model. My goal is to make it as close as I can to reality. By saying that, I understand that it will take time.....one or two weeks and probably restarting a few times. In summary....I have found scratch building to be time consuming, research demanding and sometimes frustrating.

My skill sets are not aligned with modeling. Modeling is something I had to learn one step at a time, with errors being accepted at part of the learning process. 

Please understand that I appreciate what you are going through, I went through (to many structures were built that were just plan to big)


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## New Berlin RR

BigTank216 said:


> Question; What do all you people recommend, code 100 or code 83 HO track?




Depends on what you run really, I went with code 100 because I know I'm gonna run locos that are new and old, some older trains may have larger flanges (pizza cutter wheels) on them and may not run correctly on code 83 rail...


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## Southern

BigTank216 said:


> Question; What do all you people recommend, code 100 or code 83 HO track?


code 83 looks more real. Some older stuff will not run on 83. Anything will run on 100. 100 is taller and will have less derailments. All of mine is 100.


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## Kwikster

Here's a great place to find images of many RR related items. I've opened a page on stations, it won't list dimensions but shows many, many styles. http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/srchThumbs.aspx?srch=station&search=Search Should help with some ideas. Here's a picture of my local train station, you can still board Amtrak there









Carl


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## Big Ed

Hey bigtank you know there are places to buy the windows and doors?

check out one?

http://www.micromark.com/ho-scale-structures-and-accessories.html


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## BigTank216

Hey Ed.. well i was just looking at the link Kwikster sent yesterday, on train stations, and it's truely and eye opener to ideas ... But yes i actually ran across micromark yesterday when i was looking for bench blocks . right now im currently looking at pictures and saving them for ideas and types of Detailing... and wed im taking trip to where i ordered one of my Passenger Cars And im go pickup a couple Books and buy few crafting tools.. I Think I'm Go Take A Little More Time To Research & Buy More Tools...Before I Start Anything.. pushed back 1 or maybe 2 month's to have my bases covered


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## BigTank216

Okay If I Did this right , here's a couple sample pictures of what i want to model , so i can give u ppl and better idea of what im planning or want


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## Big Ed

Pictures look all right.:thumbsup:

That is a pretty blah looking station, looks more like a school.


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## rogruth

If you like it,you do it.

How much room do you have?That station and its area will take a great amount of space in HO.


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## BigTank216

4x8 layout with added removeable 2x4 section


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## BigTank216

Well Ed it Sure Aint The sear's Tower lol I picked it because it's my hometown; and i thought it be a good starter/beginner entry level build


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## rogruth

Well good luck BT.


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## New Berlin RR

Cool, looks like a fun build!


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## Carl

You like it, that is what counts.......hopefully you can go by the facility and great some general measurements (suggest you pace of the dimensions, so the rail cops don't get to concerned about someone measuring their building).

If you can get exterior door sizes, you will have a good chance of using those to approximate the other dimensions.

Also, the pictures you have can be used for dimensions (if you know one dimension from the picture, you can do a reasonable estimate of the other dimensions).

If you are looking for a free HO scale......try the one at the bottom of RSLaserkits home page.


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## Kwikster

BT, looks like that should be a fairly straight forward build. Not a great deal of fancy ornamentation. Certain things like the crossing signs and light poles give good clues as to it's size. You can "guesstimate" dimensions fairly close with them.

Carl


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## BigTank216

*Small Update*

Thats What I Was Pushing For..Nice But Simple..And Work My Way Up To The Next Level..Also I Re-Thought The (4x8) Layout..I'm Going With (6x8) Instead...Now I'm Trying To Figure Out A Track Layout..Because I'm Not Good With Software Unless It;s & PC Game..But What I Started On So Far 
Was Work Area For Crafting & Working On Trains & Storage Area.. all wood 
was Nothing But scraps i had laying around.. It's not finished but soon will be.. then on to next phase


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## Kwikster

There are a few good track plan programs, many here use Anyrail. It allows 50 pieces of track in the demo version, has lots of tracks libraries and other neat features. I'd suggest using that as a good start point.

Carl


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## BigTank216

nvm lol seen someone with the same question; and he got hammered lol


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## Kwikster

BigTank216 said:


> nvm lol seen someone with the same question; and he got hammered lol


What do you mean? It's not good when people are made "afraid to post" because someone else slammed another person for asking something. I know many here take a dim view of situations like that. Post it lets see what you need, MOST here want to help "newbies" not make them afraid to post questions.

Carl


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## brylerjunction

Bigtank can you come over and build me something cool like that out of scraps???


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## brylerjunction

Bigtank I know you want to scratch build but Walthers made this amtrak station perhaps you could kit bash


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## BigTank216

Lol You Live Too Far... And Yes I Prob Could Kit-bash It.. and i think i will just az back up..but i want to try my hand first at custom build first it be good learning experince i think


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## BigTank216

Just Stopped In 2 Say Gud Morning 2 You All !!! Well Here Go Round 26 Of Trying To Use Anyrail I Stayed Up Till 2am And I'm Back At It LolI Got The Trial Version For Right Now, But For Some Reason I Got Issues Fitting Track In The Right Sections; I've Tried To Scale Up & Down, But When I Try (Up Or Down) Nothing Don't Align Right; 
Or it just Dont Fit; I Went Changed Measurments To Inches ; 72 by 96 ;
Anyone Got Any Idea's In What The xxxx I'm Doing Wrong?


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## gunrunnerjohn

BigTank216 said:


> nvm lol seen someone with the same question; and he got hammered lol


I'm not sure where you saw that, but if it's on this board, we take a very dim view of that kind of response. I didn't see it, or it would have been dealt with harshly. 



BigTank216 said:


> Just Stopped In 2 Say Gud Morning 2 You All !!! Well Here Go Round 26 Of Trying To Use Anyrail I Stayed Up Till 2am And I'm Back At It LolI Got The Trial Version For Right Now, But For Some Reason I Got Issues Fitting Track In The Right Sections; I've Tried To Scale Up & Down, But When I Try (Up Or Down) Nothing Don't Align Right;
> Or it just Dont Fit; I Went Changed Measurments To Inches ; 72 by 96 ;
> Anyone Got Any Idea's In What The xxxx I'm Doing Wrong?


How about posting the AnyRail file so we can take a look at what you have?


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## Big Ed

Hey Jon, did you think about laying down foam board so you can carve out the terrain some?

You know the 2" pink or blue insulation board?

Just something to think about before hand.


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## BigTank216

Hey Ed Foam Board Was The List , 1/2 Hardwood Red Oak For Top , 4x3 Boards For Trim and 4x3 Boards For The Legs & Bracing & 1in Foam For Top, But With What You 
Said; I Think I Do 2in foam (Not The Stuff That Flakes & Break With a Smiple touch)


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## BigTank216

hold that thought


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## BigTank216

*My atempt To Anyrail*

Well This Round 26 Of Trying To Use Anyrail & Here What I Got Well Here Go Round 26 Of Trying To Use Anyrail, I'm Back At It Lol I Got The Trial Version For Right Now, But For Some Reason I Got Issues Fitting Track In The Right Sections; I've Tried To Scale Up & Down, But When I Try (Up Or Down) Nothing Don't Align Right; Or it just Dont Fit; 
I Went Changed Measurments To Inches ; 72 by 96 ;
Anyone Got Any Idea's In What The xxxx I'm Doing Wrong?


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## Carl

PROGRESS, I guess that is what counts. This is a dumb question, I think you mentioned that the layout size had increased. If so, I hope the size does not prevent you from reaching anything that maybe on the layout...derailed train, etc. Normal reach is somewhere around your arm's length. Just a thought.


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## gunrunnerjohn

I was asking you to post the actual Anyrail file so we could look it in the program and see what was going on. If you do that, maybe someone here can assist.


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## BigTank216

Oh Ok Well That I Dont Know How To do. Is Attach Anyrail File, Do I Do It Same Way
Az Uploading pictures?


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## gunrunnerjohn

Yep, just attach it to the message using the







icon on the full reply window toolbar.


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## BigTank216

*ok here it is*

Ok Weee Now We Cooking With Lil Steam...
Hope i got it right This The Anyrail File

View attachment jay.any


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## gunrunnerjohn

Now we just need someone with Anyrail currently installed. I'm sitting on the balcony of a beachfront condo we rented for the week sipping a cold drink, so I don't have it here. If nobody comes along, I'll be back next week and I'll fire it up and see what I can do.


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## BigTank216

Dam You Lucky!!!!! lol Best I Can Do Is Shower & AC lol


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## rogruth

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Now we just need someone with Anyrail currently installed. I'm sitting on the balcony of a beachfront condo we rented for the week sipping a cold drink, so I don't have it here. If nobody comes along, I'll be back next week and I'll fire it up and see what I can do.


Rub it in.hwell:


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## xrunner

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Now we just need someone with Anyrail currently installed. I'm sitting on the balcony of a beachfront condo we rented for the week sipping a cold drink, so I don't have it here. If nobody comes along, I'll be back next week and I'll fire it up and see what I can do.


I'm looking at the file in Anyrail right now. What do you want to know?


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## gunrunnerjohn

I think he wants to know how to make the tracks line up properly if the previous graphic is any clue. At least that's what I got out of it.


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## xrunner

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I think he wants to know how to make the tracks line up properly if the previous graphic is any clue. At least that's what I got out of it.


I don't have enough information to understand what's wrong. I don't "see" anything wrong, except one turnout was not connected, but I got it to connect by moving it slightly. Other than that it looks fine as it is. I'll monitor this thread and assist if possible.

Over and out.


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## BigTank216

Yupper That Exactly How I want It; In That Picture File , But I Cant Seem to Get It To 
Flow Correct & Tie Back Into Mainline On Left-hand Side Muchless Line Up,, Any Help Be Blessing
P.S. I Know This Only Trial Version & Options Limited But Shouldnt I Atleast Be Able To Bring It
Back To Mainline On Left-Hand Side??? Because The 2 Tracks @ The Top,Thats Side By Side
Well The Inner One I Plan To Run Up On Slop & Back Down Other-side If You Get Where Im coming 
From


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## xrunner

BigTank216 said:


> Yupper That Exactly How I want It; In That Picture File , But I Cant Seem to Get It To
> Flow Correct & Tie Back Into Mainline On Left-hand Side Muchless Line Up Any Help Be Blessing


I do not understand what you want as an end product yet. Do you have a picture of what you want to end up with, given what I see in the file I'm looking at?

A picture is worth a thousand words.


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## BigTank216

Ok Im Go Try To Explain This Best Way I Can; If You Looking At Computer Screen ,, The Left-Hand Side Needs 
To Be Tied Into Main-line; So It Be One Continuos Line That I Can Go In Either Direction,, Because Inner Line 
In where My Train Station Go Be Placed; So It Go Round That Inner Circle Like; And Connect Back To Main; That
Best I Can Explain It; But I Keep Trying And Working Over Here Im Not Giving Up Lol..


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## xrunner

Is this close to what you want?


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## BigTank216

ooooooo


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## BigTank216

Oh Yeah Close Enough .. Guess im and Visual Person , This What I needed to See To Go off Of Thank you So Muchhhhh. But question How Do I Get This Back so i make copy and also open it with anyrail?


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## xrunner

BigTank216 said:


> Oh Yeah Close Enough .. Guess im and Visual Person , This What I needed to See To Go off Of Thank you So Muchhhhh. But question How Do I Get This Back so i make copy and also open it with anyrail?


I have the file attached. You can go from there and modify it. You'll notice a couple of track sections aren't "connected". Don't worry about it. It won't make any difference in the real layout. I have the same thing on my layout file and it makes no difference, it's just the computer being a computer.


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## BigTank216

can u do me favor please and send it to my email? cause it only letting m save az JEPEG.. [email protected]


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## xrunner

BigTank216 said:


> can u do me favor please and send it to my email? cause it only letting m save az JEPEG.. [email protected]


My last post had a .any file attachment. It should have let you save it that way. Are you sure you can't save it as an anyrail file? There is no reason it would want to save it as a .jpg file.


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## BigTank216

i try to open it with anyrail and it wont do it ... but if i gotta take it to office max and have it blowin up i will .. it save az jpg only


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## xrunner

BigTank216 said:


> i try to open it with anyrail and it wont do it ... but if i gotta take it to office max and have it blowin up i will .. it save az jpg only


You're looking at the wrong post. Go to the post shown below and download the attachment. I just checked it and it opens the Anyrail file just fine.

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showpost.php?p=147306&postcount=70


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## BigTank216

Good-Lord Give Me A Mirror ! 
I Must Be And Blonde lol 
I see I got Alot To Learn ; Thank Youuu


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## xrunner

BigTank216 said:


> Good-Lord Give Me A Mirror !
> I Must Be And Blonde lol


Don't worry about it. Our member Big Ed has the same problem.


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## BigTank216

I Made 3 Copies ! One Got Be Actual Rail System, other ones im go use to practis with now i got good template , then after i get all materials for my table , i convert 
to Full Version of anyrail when i get and extra $60 , Cause Right Now Next Focus Is To 
get my bench up


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## xrunner

BigTank216 said:


> I Made 3 Copies ! One Got Be Actual Rail System, other ones im go use to practis with now i got good template , then after i get all materials for my table , i convert
> to Full Version of anyrail when i get and extra $60 , Cause Right Now Next Focus Is To
> get my bench up


Yea make a backup and practice, practice, practice. It took me several months to get mine right. After that you gotta pony up the dough to order the track.


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## BigTank216

No Doubt . Im go Atempt and West Virgina Theme , I Just Got Walther's Plated Amtrak Cocaches & Dinner , Engine Next , Plus Im Doing Tunnel & Litle More Thats Why instead Of Doing The 4x8 layout - I Went With 6x10 That Biggest I Can Go


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## Kwikster

I'm glad to see you got what you wanted. I myself need to spend a TON more time learning it. 

Carl


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## BigTank216

*Got Bored*

Hey All Thought Id Share This Tibbit With Yall, Got Bored today waiting on 
ups to bring my trains lol , So I went To Local Hobby shop I Found, and got New Amtrak Materials / Baggage Box car & Amtrak Lounge / Coach 
Car, And Since I Was Going To start my hand @ building; i thought id start
with something simple (But Still Waiting) For My Ups Shippment To come.
Thought I Share This Little Bit With Everyone To Show I'm Serious.
But Next Step; will be Table Build 6x9 Layout (2 weeks away) 
Because I need Darn Truck to haul the lumber. 
I Want To Say This i am commited to this venture , but im on budget and going to take me great deal time to get stuff and finish project.


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## Kwikster

Looks like a good start. Seeing the Colonel's shack made me hungry  Can't wait to see the progress.

Carl


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## BigTank216

Man i Seen That And Was; 
Like I gotta Have It It Lol . 
Wish i could find A Dairy Queen

But Yeah, didnt Wana spent Billion $$$$, On Good Kit 
Till I got The Hang Of Things


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## sstlaure

That KFC kit is a good starter build. It's the first one I did when I got into the hobby as well.


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## New Berlin RR

very nice find on the KFC and the two Amtrak cars!


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## brylerjunction

that KFC kit is cool!!!


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## BigTank216

Thanksss
I Still Got 2 Amtrak Coachs Coming.
Go Start on KFC Tonite
I Take Couple More Photo's Soon Im Done


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## Carl

Progress is being made.....great news.


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## BigTank216

*KFC LoL*

Well Folk's Here It Is...
Well My First Ever Build Wasn't To Bad. Had 2 Problems; 
No1 Smoke Stack Was Missing; No2 Base Was Warped ALittle Bit, It was Warped Good Enough That i Had To Use Clamps, All-n-All This Not Bad
Starter Kit ForThe Absolute First Timer, From 1 To 10 Scale, Id Give It a (4)
Only Because Ac Uint was very cheesey & color was dark grey & Smoke
Stack Was Missing & Warped Board; however im Pleased, Still I See Couple 
Misstake I Made & Could Did Little More Detail On Bucket Top Paint White Like Actuall Buckt & Paint Lines In Parking Area, But Old Saying You Get What You Pay For & I Paided $12.00 For It Lol So What Yall Think?


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## BigTank216

Ok Next Question; Anyone Got Good Suggestion For Starter Crafting Supplie? For Example, Paints & tools Too Have On Hand. After Last Night I see I Need To Put Together.....


----------



## Kwikster

Tools are easy, a selection of various types of full size and "jewelers" screw drivers in slotted and phillip's types. A Dremel tool with a good selection of bits, like this: http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=687-01 A small vice, various clamps, needle nose and regular pliers. Paints is a tougher choice, as you need multiple differing colors and types. Brushes will range from fine to broad as the need arises. Paints can be bought at places like Micheal's or Hobby Lobby with spray paints found at Wal-mart or the like.

Carl


----------



## rogruth

BT, Nice job for a first time.
Keep up that kind of work and they will get better as you go.


----------



## Carl

Here is an interesting link that has some excellent thoughts on model railroading tools and their use: http://www.hrtrains.com/classnotes15.html

The exacto knife is a must with ample supply of blades. The next time you see your doctor, put the arm on him for a surgical knife. The blades are thinner and last longer. Styrene can wipe out the sharpness of a blade quickly.....make sure you have a sharp blade when scoring or cutting styrene.


----------



## BigTank216

Wowwww!!!! Carl That Alot Of Tool..... Lol
But Very Very Helpful.. For Past Few Days I've Been Reading And Tryin To Compile
& Tool List Thanks Alot....


----------



## Carl

I am glad that the site was of help. It is a lot of tools.


----------



## BigTank216

week after next i plan to start my table build ....
go be kinda tight in livingroom... but helll i live alone lol


----------



## BigTank216

*question about air brushing tools*

Say I got Question About Air Brushing.
I;m Thinking About Experiementing With that @ Later Date
Well I Came Across This Item & Like 2 Know If I'm Barking Up The Right tree
would this be good or do i need and better one?
Airbrush Set w/H Brush Heavy Duty (H-SET) By Paasche Airbrush Company


----------



## Kwikster

Air brushes can be a nice tool to have, allows a lot of versatility in painting and weathering your layout.

If you don't have access to an air compressor, it might be best to shop an all in one kit like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-5-hp-58-psi-compressor-and-airbrush-kit-95630.html or http://www.thelashop.com/airbrush-kit-air-compressor-dual-action-2-airbrushes.html There are other options of course. If you have an air compressor already, make sure you can turn the air pressure down to the levels needed by what ever kit you buy.

Carl


----------



## BigTank216

Air Compressor No Porblem,, I Got 4 Gallon compressor.. Been Going Threw Few Threads Reading & Seen Couple Videos & Thought Id Ask Cause Looking Through My Tool Box I got More Stuff Than I Thought , Cause i used To Rehab House's Till I got sick .. Its just The Little Things I need Like And Air brush Never Used Those Before..


----------



## Kwikster

Then sounds like your on the right path :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: If it were me, I'd add a water separator just beyond the regulator to help control moisture. Nothing worse than waterspotting a new paint job, been there done that. The air brush you could wait a bit on, I'd focus my resources on getting the table built and plan the layout. Once you have your structures laid out, then pop for the brush. Remember the air brush is mostly for detail work anyway.

Carl


----------



## BigTank216

Ok I Hear Yahh.. My Layout All Set (Might Do Some Hands On Tweaking During Track Laying) But Yeah You Right (Focus On Table First,That My Main Goal First) & Stock Up
On Alot Of Batteries For My Digital Cam Cause Aint Got Web Cam


----------



## BigTank216

*Point Connection*

Hey Im wondering if Anyone can help me .. I Came Up With something new
and i need 3 points Connected I Ran Out Of Rails...

View attachment no2.any


----------



## Carl

3 points of what? You need electrical connections?


----------



## BigTank216

Sorry My Internet went down ... no i got 3 points where track not connected; i ran out of track, to connect everything up, thats what i meant by 3points


----------



## rogruth

Do you mean places where track doesn't connect and there is a gap?

If so,you may need to cut appropriate lengths of track to make those connections.


----------



## BigTank216

Cut? Ok How Do You Cut Them? Because i only know how to disconnect track sections and replace them..and i used everything i had maybe im doing sumin wrong again


----------



## rogruth

What type of track are you using?If you are using old style tubular or other track without a built in roadbed you can use a Dremel tool with metal cutting discs.Many other brands can also be cut this way.The new Lionel Fastrack is quite different.I think CTT had an article sometime ago on cutting that type of track.


----------



## BigTank216

code 100 ... and im go install road bed ..... on if u look under original post i put and anyrail link ,, so ppl can see what i was doing wrong or maybe they can correct my mess up ... you will see this (no2.any ) just click on it


----------



## rogruth

The Dremel tool works great on that type.You may need to file off burrs.


----------



## Carl

Maybe you need to buy some more track?


----------



## BigTank216

llllllll


----------



## BigTank216

Heyyy sum one wana lend me their truck lol i need to make home depot run


----------



## BigTank216

*Question About Scratch Building*

Okay Is Their A Way To To Make A Raised Logo Or Building Sign / Lettering?
I Mean I'm Not Stupid I Know It Can Be Done. But I'm Wondering About 
The Process & Step's To Do It. Also Whats The Best Materials For That I.E
Wood , Styrene or Metals ,or Do Anyone Know Someone Who Does That


----------



## Big Ed

BigTank216 said:


> Okay Is Their A Way To To Make A Raised Logo Or Building Sign / Lettering?
> I Mean I'm Not Stupid I Know It Can Be Done. But I'm Wondering About
> The Process & Step's To Do It. Also Whats The Best Materials For That I.E
> Wood , Styrene or Metals ,or Do Anyone Know Someone Who Does That


Not what your asking. But,
This is just the opposite of what you want instead of raised they are indented.
Take a some pieces of weathered wood. And carve the letters in the wood
A dremal tool with the right kind of cutter works well. 
Then re weather it.

If your good at carving you can also achieve raised letters out of the wood too.


----------



## BigTank216

*layout opinion needed*

hey all hope everyone been okay, but listen i need some opinions here.
saturday coming up i finally managed to find someone with a dang truck and im going to go buy lumber for my bench work. ok what im trying to do, is have a nice size layout in my livingroom; and I've included a smart draw picture to try give you guys idea of what im working with; but im back and fourth with this 6x8 or 6x10 layout? which would be better? which would be better for a multi-level layout? (duck under table is that even possible with what i want?) reasoning being i think; it will give me more room up top to place buildings and have the switching yard / holding yard under, thats what im thinking . room not issue to me because i live alone. So really don't matter what i do.


----------



## Big Ed

Did you think about one big L shaped layout?


----------



## BigTank216

L shape .. nope see i been away from here looking and thinking about what would be best thing to do in my case ..maybe im reaching to far i duno canu show me and l shape? cause most everything i seen was bench tables or ones that are modular


----------



## BigTank216

*Question, about plaster*

question, about plaster
Things got kinda Bad Here, I haven’t gave up, things just super slow now; But I been looking @ plenty video’s & reading threw plenty threads Even got my hands on two DVD’s that actually go threw the Process of building bench-work and structure’s
Well I seen a lot PPL use woodland’s scenic plaster, thing is I came across these 2 plaster products @ Lowe’s; I need 2 find out is which of the 2 would be best suited for MRR?

DIAMOND Brand 50 Lb. Finishing Plaster 
Choice of smooth trowel or textured finishes

DAP 25 lb. Plaster of Paris 
Smooth bubble free formula 
Sets fast in 20 to 30 minutes without shrinking 
For use in patching applications


----------



## Big Ed

BigTank216 said:


> L shape .. nope see i been away from here looking and thinking about what would be best thing to do in my case ..maybe im reaching to far i duno canu show me and l shape? cause most everything i seen was bench tables or ones that are modular



I should have said U shaped.

Something like this but built for your room,









That way you can walk around and work on it as your not stuck with just a big table.
Check out some more?

Here,
http://www.layoutvision.com/gallery/


----------



## BigTank216

*Some progress*

thought Id Share this tibbit with everyone
progress at stand still; but atleast i got
the rest of my amtrak cars today! yahhhhh
all (4) of superliners are plated finishes
2 superliner dinner cars,2 superliner lounge cars
(2) 60' Baggage/box cars & Picked Up Sum
Atlas code 100 tracks .Now I gotta get a engine

But With Money Bring Tight Right now; I Thought 
it was best to hold off on building table.So
for now im go do my rollin stock & Horn-up on
tools; Till i nail the right setup down; This Way
I keep chuggin down da line....


----------



## Big Ed

I guess not?:dunno:


----------



## BigTank216

I'm just having hard time deciding which route to take (Ed)
U shape like you suggested Or Something Modular that i can
take apart if need be thats what im struggling with


----------



## rogruth

A U shape could be modular.Almost any shape can be.


----------



## Kwikster

BigTank216 said:


> I'm just having hard time deciding which route to take (Ed)
> U shape like you suggested Or Something Modular that i can
> take apart if need be thats what im struggling with


No matter what shape you go with, it's still possible to build modular. If you are planning on moving it may be a bit easier to stick with a simpler "U" or "L" shape for now. If you build as a modular be sure to use locating pins (dowels or metal pins) to ensure it can be reassembled with proper alignment. You can make a very simple jig to ensure all pins are as close to exact as possible. Either way, build what you wish you're the only one who matters here.

Carl


----------



## BigTank216

*Styrene*

Well today I pulled da trigger and brought few sheets of styrene to start my first scratch build.. i got midwest .060 sheets & also used the evergreen sheets and got some open web truss and rods, to do my amtrak station .. and also brought a few 2x3x6 studs to start with; couldnt get my hands on a truck so i gotta buy stuff in limited quanties.. az for plywoods and pink insulation boards im just go have them cut to lenght at store...doing L shape (modular) one section 4x9 and other section 
(w)30in x (L)60 ... so im turning into a busy beaver ... but tell me this anyone here and styrene master? what woud be best paints for styrene? i do plan to air-brush


----------



## BigTank216

*Help With Anyrail*

I did and anyrail layout that i like and did pretty good with it.. but only thing i need is for someone who can help me..make layout for the under table portion thats to be my switching yard that will duck under and back ontop . i just need to see and proper track postioning. so here file for what top look like then maybe someone can go from their...

View attachment A.any


----------



## xrunner

BigTank216 said:


> I did and anyrail layout that i like and did pretty good with it.. but only thing i need is for someone who can help me..make layout for the under table portion thats to be my switching yard that will duck under and back ontop . i just need to see and proper track postioning. so here file for what top look like then maybe someone can go from their...
> 
> View attachment 20054


Hello,

BigTank sent me a PM asking if I would mod his Anyrail file with a design for the yard. Trouble is I have no idea what he wants to do, really. Duck under the table and back up? I have no ideas for that. If somebody can draw it up by hand I can try to put it in the Anyrail file.


----------



## Big Ed

xrunner said:


> Hello,
> 
> BigTank sent me a PM asking if I would mod his Anyrail file with a design for the yard. Trouble is I have no idea what he wants to do, really. Duck under the table and back up? I have no ideas for that. If somebody can draw it up by hand I can try to put it in the Anyrail file.


I have no ideal either and I can't see the file?
I can't open it. It would be better if he just posted the picture directly to the post so some can see it.
I guess you need to ask him?


----------



## xrunner

Here ya go -


----------



## BigTank216

Sorry bout that i was just cleaning up so i can start m bench work my new cam should be here by wed ordered it online .. needed on so i could take pictures for u guys,, but yes thats the layout i want finally .. all i need is for and layout to line up with that one because i want my switching yard to run under layout up top.. maybe im stating things wrong or using the incorrect terms , but i seen one or two videos like that where train go under table to and holding yard and come back up.. im type person that needs to see the way it done or have someone helping me hands on but i dont have that and ones i seen dont go into great detail maybe i just have to wing it


----------



## xrunner

BigTank216 said:


> ... all i need is for and layout to line up with that one because i want my switching yard to run under layout up top.. maybe im stating things wrong or using the incorrect terms , but i seen one or two videos like that where train go under table to and holding yard and come back up..


What you are wanting to do is not trivial. That would require quite a lot of work and planning. Maybe I'm wrong, but if you aren't that experienced I wouldn't attempt something like that.


----------



## BigTank216

im def not experienced in this .. this going to be my first build and wanted it to be sumin sweet


----------



## BigTank216

lookin at everyone else's setup's sealed he deal for me , and i planning the build in 2 sections cause i might move next year or following year and want to be able to break it down and take with me to new place because i do plan on gettin bigger place room for expansion but i really like how some have two levels things like that i just want to maxumize my layout make it so it wont be boring. dont get me wrong im a train lover and got the fever and i do realize it take alot but it can be very rewarding


----------



## xrunner

Rather than sending me PMs I would advise posting your questions in the open so you can get the most help. I am not the be-all know-all of this hobby. Far from it.


----------



## BigTank216

got you trying to find some good how to videos to get better idea of things but their very limited


----------



## Kwikster

BigTank216 said:


> im def not experienced in this .. this going to be my first build and wanted it to be sumin sweet


Please take no offense here, as it is certainly not my intention in the slightest. 

I would trim back your plans a touch. Building what I saw in your pics would be a nice, reasonably simple way to get started and learn from it. Use the experiences learned there to progress and grow. It is not advisable to "jump in with both feet" you'll likely as not end up frustrated and quit the hobby. I did just that many years ago, and I rather regret that approach as it took me 30+ years and accidentally finding my old trains to bring me back. Believe me, it's far easier to work up to something and the progress forward than to regress back once it's going. 

The under table staging area sounds cool, don't get me wrong. It will need a fairly long run to keep grades to a manageable level. 3% grade would be about the limit, 4% is pushing it especially with a consist above 5-6 cars. For example figuring on a minimum height of 6 inches (you'd likely need more) you'd need a run of 120 inches to achieve a 5% grade. That could be a bit steep. A run of 150 inches would yield a 4% grade. Grade doesn't really change in relation to scale. 

Hope this helps a bit.

Carl


----------



## BigTank216

(Kwikster) Hey No Offense (taken here) this is what everything about and excellent hobby & good learning experince.. So let me get this right basically id need 150 in. or more to achive and 4% grade witht i want ... ok well with that being siad i guess i stick with original plans and work my way up vs me just jumping in and screwing things up with no experince.. i guess i do tend to over do and think things.. because ur right it do takes time and one thing im kinda scared about well nervous is sclupting hills and mountain side / tunnel but i get what u saying -


----------



## Kwikster

I recall you're planning on a 6x8 layout out. Is it going to be along a wall or free standing? I ask because it would be possible to add maybe a 2x4-8 shelf for staging I've seen similar ideas done and it eliminates need for grades. I've also seen where people have built staging behind their backdrops using a spur track. Not sure if it's feasible, just trying to offer ideas. 

Carl


----------



## BigTank216

yeah i did but i decided to up the layout because im go move come febuary to bigger place so i figured since im go do sumin i might az well do a bigger size more room ... noo u fine i need all help i can getttttt !!! peronally i dont like backdrops.. see im opting for 7x9 i feel that be good starting point for me vs the 6x8 maybe im wrong please correct me if i am


----------



## BigTank216

*Qiestion about scratch building*

hey all i got question , i know acto knife is used to cut styrene to desired size.. but how would i go about cutting a window into the pieces to be cut
without chipping sides or warping the boards by bending and trying to snapout a area? is their some other tool to achieve that? heres a picture of a small building i want to recreate to give u idea what i want to do.. az u can see its 2 story.. and i have looked for DPM parts to resemble that... because im doing and researching west va thats theme i want.. yeah let me add that im using midwest product styrene .060 x 7.6 x 11 sheets


----------



## Kwikster

There are a couple ways. One is repeatedly scoring with the Xacto carefully following the line using a "backer block" of wood for support. Another is there are blades available for soldering irons for such a purpose, a hot knife will cut thru it like butter. If anything, I'd cut the opening undersize a bit and open up with a file to final size. Just a thought.

Carl


----------



## BigTank216

Hey Thank You .. sounds like to me my Xacto Knife & Backer Block Be Best Choice For Me Seeing How Im Newbie To This .. never knew u could turn a soilder iron into a hot knife glad i asked before i got to cutting on stuff


----------



## BigTank216

*Need couple opinions*

Hey all hope everyone been okay.
well i been doing alot of reading and thinking about a soild layout
well this another possibilty and i want to hear what yall think..
yeah im back & fourth on this but i wana get it right the first time
and area im using is my livingroom 11 1/2 ft by 15ft .. so which of the
two would be better ones and L shape and ones not ..


----------



## rogruth

I think this has been mentioned before but remember that with a 4' wide table you will need to have access from all sides,hidden panels from under or very long arms.
IMHO you could make better use of the space in the second plan.


----------



## BigTank216

yeah im ho also... i kinda figured second one would be better...i just been trying to think things out.. plan is since im not doing anything for holiday coming up id spend 
that time starting bench work.... sometimes i need to rethink things because i do 
have habbit of over thinking or making things harder than need be .. my first plan 
was 6x8... but it was suggested id be better with Lshape ... i may be going in circles
but im thinking in terms of something smiple and space saving with ability to expand
reason being 75% of time im home alone


----------



## Kwikster

BT, the removable section (lower right) can be a problem area. The more you connect and reconnect the greater chance of troubles. Also, the section must have a way to get alignment 99% spot on or you'll have tracking and derails. I've seen various ways of doing the dropouts, but if possible orient yourself to eliminate it, and I'd orient track to make it a straight run only. Don't want a switch there if possible. Perhaps run a double track across and eliminate both switches there.

As a thought, can you use the area along the lower right to build a staging shelf? Maybe a 36x 72 will give plenty of storage with ease of expansion later if desired.

Carl


----------



## BigTank216

Ok in other words you suggesting (drop the 2 sections) and keep 4x8 table and simply
and long run of 36x72 that can be stored under table ,, if thats what im hearing i think your way is alot better .. correct me if im wrong ... because i was considering shelf layout @ one point ...but with both opening id have to do a lift gate or swing gate then to dam door intercom and heating control in dam way on wall lol


----------



## Carl

Neat layout.....can you reach the tracks, along the walls from the front of the layout. Something to think about.


----------



## BigTank216

well the one with the removable section an bridge yes i could could rech everything
but az (Kwikster) Pointed out .. I could have issues down road with derailments and 100% alignment something to be considered but all in all i think i just run with his suggestion for sure main reason why i was back and fourth on this is because i want it to be lil more than just switching yard and basic oval .. because instead of doing DC i want to run DCC out the gate and have 2 loco's at once


----------



## Kwikster

I like the lower one, for the most part. Just offering advice to be careful to ensure it can be aligned easily if you choose the lower right drop section. It can be done, just make a drill jig to properly align some dowels as pins. The other area, the removable bridge, I was suggesting to remove the switches on the bridge and to the right of it and make it a double tracked straight section. Would simplify raising and lowering to not have switches located there. 

An idea for a drop gate. Which shows the idea for the doubled straight across it.

















Even though the layout is in N scale, there are a lot of good ideas. Here

Carl


----------



## BigTank216

Exaclty what i needed to see... all ones i seen with gate was eiter swing or lift...
def alot of good ideas... now hope i can get to home depot before everything sky
rocket due to all these darn wildfires


----------



## tjcruiser

You might want to have the bottom of your drop gate land in a tapered keyway on the far side ... such that the taper will self-align and self-center the track in proper position with essentially zero side-to-side play.

TJ


----------



## BigTank216

Question; this may sound dumb but.. with use of different frieght cars & Loco's what would be best choice in curved track 15,18,or 22in radius? because i read somewhere that not all cars can handle certain curve's and are more prone to derailments... 
I mean.. what would be best choice if any? because seem like to me one would have to
factor that into the build if correct


----------



## Kwikster

Generally speaking, the larger radius will support more choices. It's not a bad idea to use what your largest engine requires, and choose one step up. More often than not derails are from misaligned track or incorrect code track used. Example laying code 83 when some stock needs code 100. Same applies to switches as well.

Carl


----------



## Southern

BigTank216 said:


> Question; this may sound dumb but.. with use of different frieght cars & Loco's what would be best choice in curved track 15,18,or 22in radius? because i read somewhere that not all cars can handle certain curve's and are more prone to derailments...
> I mean.. what would be best choice if any? because seem like to me one would have to
> factor that into the build if correct


 
It is not a dumb question. I fact it is a good one, The smaller the curve the less choses that you will have in Locos and rolling stock. the larger the crave the more room you will need. 

I have a lot of 18r curves. I do not run the longer freight cars. I do not have any trouble running a DD35 or 2-8-8-2. Thees engines were made to handle 18r. I have some long passenger cars the work great on 18r. The couplers are mounted on the trucks not the body. I can not use diaphragms on the passenger cars and the long locos and cars do not look realistic in the 18r curves but no one has ever noticed,

I wanted more track in less space so I had to give up the use of some of the other things like long freight and body mounted couplers.


----------



## BigTank216

*layout track*

First off want 2 thank everyone for the support.
Last nite spent great deal time planning .. From everything that has been
suggested the L shape layout is best option with my limited space so here
it is wall A Long run (w)24 x (L) 173 & Wall B (w) 24 x (L) 108 & for looped
ends i will build out at each end and also acounted for drop gate to allow
access to patio that rarely used & Tracks 18in curved to better usage for
most stock & all in code 100... so if anyone see a issues please advise ty
P.S also included and anyrail file if anyone see need to revise it or make changes






View attachment double loop.any


----------



## BigTank216

*Changes & Update*

Hey wanted to drop by see whats new with everyone .. but to let u know 
i made few changes to layout so i post it .. you all be happy to know 
finally im go let the dust fly and start my layout tommorrow so by saturday
or sunday i have a couple pictures for u good folks finally so wish me luck
im go need it lol so look it over and let me know what u think thanks


----------



## Kwikster

I like it. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: The way the drop gate is set up should do nicely. Make sure you have a means to ensure it aligns the same way every time. Before long, you'll be running around the rails.

Carl


----------



## cv_acr

Just be aware that in the latest revision you will need to isolate two separate reversing sections at the bottom part of the diagram.


----------



## cv_acr

Kwikster said:


> Generally speaking, the larger radius will support more choices. It's not a bad idea to use what your largest engine requires, and choose one step up. More often than not derails are from misaligned track or incorrect code track used. Example laying code 83 when some stock needs code 100. Same applies to switches as well.
> 
> Carl





Southern said:


> It is not a dumb question. I fact it is a good one, The smaller the curve the less choses that you will have in Locos and rolling stock. the larger the crave the more room you will need.
> 
> I have a lot of 18r curves. I do not run the longer freight cars. I do not have any trouble running a DD35 or 2-8-8-2. Thees engines were made to handle 18r. I have some long passenger cars the work great on 18r. The couplers are mounted on the trucks not the body. I can not use diaphragms on the passenger cars and the long locos and cars do not look realistic in the 18r curves but no one has ever noticed,
> 
> I wanted more track in less space so I had to give up the use of some of the other things like long freight and body mounted couplers.


Yep, like these guys said, longer equipment won't handle a really tight curve. Some newer passenger cars with body mounted couplers and full underframe detail require >24" radius.

Most 40'-50' freight cars will operate OK on 18"-22" radius curves, but 60'-90' cars may bind and derail on these sharper curves.

The biggest problems come from sloppy trackwork: kinks, misalignments and too abrupt curves (especially if you use flextrack. With flextrack you can make much smoother curves, but you can also make it too tight if you eyeball it and aren't careful to draw out the proper radii.

Only really old equipment with grossly oversize wheel flanges will only run on Code 100 rail; pretty much anything currently available should run fine on rails all the way down to Code 70 and 55. My guess is that if you're running that sort of equipment with deep flanges though, you're not too concerned about the finescale look of using properly sized rail.


----------



## BigTank216

Yeah I Kinda figured id have to run power to drop gate section to keep continuous current running threw sep portions ,and im doing curved 18" radius code 100 atlas and mostly flex track & 5 Remote Turnouts and with amount of space i have im not planning
on running 50' freight cars i dont have any thing old buying everything new.. but thing im trying todo is build my setup so it can easyly break down and be moved if need be unlike one m dad built for me az kid cant get it out basement and now mom wants table cut up why i duno but oh well


----------



## cv_acr

BigTank216 said:


> im doing curved 18" radius code 100 atlas and mostly flex track & 5 Remote Turnouts and with amount of space i have im not planning
> on running 50' freight cars i dont have any thing old buying everything new..


I've just been looking back through earlier pages in this thread, and one showed photos of the Amtrak cars you got. Those passenger cars are a scale 90' long, and the mail boxcar is also 50'+.


----------



## BigTank216

well that goes to show u im new to this , cause i sure didnt know those
was that long, i got alot to learn about scale sizes, see thats one my problems my math is like crap i have hard time....



cv_acr said:


> I've just been looking back through earlier pages in this thread, and one showed photos of the Amtrak cars you got. Those passenger cars are a scale 90' long, and the mail boxcar is also 50'+.


----------



## BigTank216

Sup.. alll well i got some progress done .. buttt.... i could really go
somewhere and lay on da tracks and let a train run my *** over..
well i got my pink insulation and 2x3 studs and liquid nails an soo 
fourth ... but thing is i messed up and got OSB boards im pissed!!!
so am i go have to start all over again or can i somehow used that?


----------



## Kwikster

OSB can be used under the foam. Plywood is more used though. The underlay in my house is OSB and been there since 1973. The biggest problem is moisture, as it's wood particles bonded with glue. If you're environment is reasonably dry, not a damp basement, should be okay IMO.

Carl


----------



## BigTank216

well thats a good thing then cause ,.... i aint got a basement lol .. i just wontmake that mistake nomore,, which brings me to another thing i never
shop at home depot ever again !!! from now own its lowes



Kwikster said:


> OSB can be used under the foam. Plywood is more used though. The underlay in my house is OSB and been there since 1973. The biggest problem is moisture, as it's wood particles bonded with glue. If you're environment is reasonably dry, not a damp basement, should be okay IMO.
> 
> Carl


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## Gansett

My son left a scrap piece of OSB in my truck bed. 1' x 3' He "forgot" about it about a month ago. We have had some torrential rain since. Just as flat as when he left it there. Maybe 'old' OSB had problems absorbing moisture but I saw no problem with this piece. When the time comes if I have a need I'll be using it. Use it and don't worry. 
btw I feel the same way about HD, I only go there as a extreme last resort.


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## BigTank216

They just horriable.... my arms tired from sorting threw all the crap lol
but... if we keep having all these wildfires .. aint go be no wood to sell
that for sure 



JackC said:


> My son left a scrap piece of OSB in my truck bed. 1' x 3' He "forgot" about it about a month ago. We have had some torrential rain since. Just as flat as when he left it there. Maybe 'old' OSB had problems absorbing moisture but I saw no problem with this piece. When the time comes if I have a need I'll be using it. Use it and don't worry.
> btw I feel the same way about HD, I only go there as a extreme last resort.


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## BigTank216

*First Update*

'It Has Begun!!! Today I Started cuttin all my peice's, table top frame work 
and Legs .. Tommorrow only thing left to do is, cut the bracing for the legs and put first section together... just hope im headed in right direction im very nervous for some reason but this about all i can do for now money tight


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## BigTank216

Ooops forgot one.....here rough layout of first section


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## gunrunnerjohn

Looks robust from here!


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## BigTank216

robust lol im trying lol dam leg got to hurting me now im laided up it so stiff i cant move it other wise id have legs on


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## Big Ed

BigTank216 said:


> robust lol im trying lol dam leg got to hurting me now im laided up it so stiff i cant move it other wise id have legs on


Sit down and attach them.


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## BigTank216

Haha lol that okay i rather not rush it lol


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## BigTank216

big ed said:


> Sit down and attach them.


well time to read my new issue of Model Railroader yall be easyyy


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## Southern

I got mine, but I take my time and make it last till the next one gets here.


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## BigTank216

Southern said:


> I got mine, but I take my time and make it last till the next one gets here.


Yup it's very gud stuff.. their so much i never knew soo much.. this like my second issue ... wish i had room to do a freeway lol


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## BigTank216

It's Offical... Their sumin wrong with me lol ... I be darned if I didnt ruin my
whole day.. got wrong size carriage bolts.. got 3in.. needed (3 1/2).. how i 
found out; was when cutting the legs and the bracing for legs on both ends
cant get another ride till monday oh well lol .. but this far i got


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## Gansett

Tank,
2x's are 1 & 9/16 thick. 3 & 1/8 when together. Add a flat washer and I'm not sure if a nut can be fully installed with any thread exposed.

When you exchange them look at deck screws, I bought some 3 inchers and two per leg holds the leg securely. I have some left over so I'll be going with 3 per leg. When the time comes for any modifications they can be easily removed. Lowes sells a container for around 10 bucks and it includes the star bit driver.

btw this won't be the first "Why'd I do that moment".


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## BigTank216

JackC said:


> Tank,
> 2x's are 1 & 9/16 thick. 3 & 1/8 when together. Add a flat washer and I'm not sure if a nut can be fully installed with any thread exposed.
> 
> When you exchange them look at deck screws, I bought some 3 inchers and two per leg holds the leg securely. I have some left over so I'll be going with 3 per leg. When the time comes for any modifications they can be easily removed. Lowes sells a container for around 10 bucks and it includes the star bit driver.
> 
> btw this won't be the first "Why'd I do that moment".


Their 2x3's ,, reason why i choosen Carriage botls was so i can break it down to me i think in this case over time deck screws / drywall screw would wear on the hole and come loose id think .. but maybe i just do it that way you suggested


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## NIMT

I have done it both ways and surprisingly the deck screws held tighter longer without working loose or wobbling.
It’s also a lot faster to set the legs.
One suggestion, adjustable feet on the bottom of your legs will allow you to level it all out rather easy.
Here is a simple example:


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## BigTank216

Ok Im Kinda Lost on that diagram .. is the nut attached to washer? and incerted from floor up? wouldn't that interffer with attaching legs to sides?
I Understand part about leveling


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## BigTank216

Oh Ok .. I see what you saying about the leveling process . I need to get some T-nuts kool cause i already got the bolts .. and also justget box of decking screws now i get it (THX Nimt)


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## gunrunnerjohn

I used T-Nuts on my modular layout legs. One thing you may have to do if they're going to move at all is to use some small flathead screws and hold the T-Nuts in, they tend to easily work themselves out of the wood.


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## BigTank216

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I used T-Nuts on my modular layout legs. One thing you may have to do if they're going to move at all is to use some small flathead screws and hold the T-Nuts in, they tend to easily work themselves out of the wood.


Question can u show me and example ? im more of a visual person


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## gunrunnerjohn

I don't have a picture of what I did, didn't think of it at the time. I just used two small screws, one on each side of the T-Nut edge, to hold them in the wood. Otherwise, when the leg gets a lateral force on it, the T-Nut will work it's way out. These things are actually designed to have the screw come in from the opposite side and hold it into the wood.

There are also some threaded inserts for wood that are more robust and won't work themselves out. These are just the first ones I found, I know that my local Home Depot has them, maybe not the same brand, but the same idea.

EZ-Lok Soft Wood Inserts


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## Gansett

OK, just how out of level are the floors you're installing your layouts on? If a layout has to be perfectly dead nutz level you've lost me. Over a 12 feetsess run my basement floor is out 3/16 of a inch. I said fugetaboutit. One of the straightest things in this house is the basement floor. Really.
Yes I said feetess, that's plural for footes.


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## gunrunnerjohn

The layout doesn't have to be dead level, but your level track will run more consistently if you don't have cruise control when it's level. People build grades into their layouts all the time, so if it all had to be level, that would be a big issue, right?


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## tjcruiser

That'd be a great prototype for some custom model work. Neat looking pairing.


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## rogruth

Just what are those three locos?

Experimental?How?What purpose?

Where are they now?


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## Mr.Buchholz

The first loco looks kinda squarish, and not as good looking as other locos. Where are those located, and what are they being used for? They look extremely new, and interesting.

-J.


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## Big Ed

Just in case you don't know.:smokin:
You got to watch what you pictures you post you know.
Some are no good to post here.
I know this one likes you to do it like this,
A copy & paste from their site,

*Photo Usage Policy* All photos displayed on this website (www.railpictures.net) are Copyrighted © by their original photographers, and may not be reused in any way without express written permission. All photos on this website are licensed to RailPictures.Net. 

Any unauthorized use of these photos, be it for commercial or non-commercial use, is in violation of U.S. and international copyright law and is strictly forbidden. 

You may not alter, crop, resize, reproduce, or distribute these photos in any fashion without permission from the owner. You may not claim these photos as your own property, or creation. 

*If you see a photo you would like to use:* 
_Please contact the phographer via the 'Contact [Photographer Name]' link located in the photo information table just below the main image. Our photographers are usually more than willing to assist you in gaining a proper license for use of their photographs._ 

Finally, we ask that you do not directly link to JPEG image files hosted on this website. Instead, we ask that you either link to http://www.railpictures.net/, or use the 'Link to this photo:' link provided above each photo in our database. 

We thank you for your adherence to this policy! 

If you have any questions or comments regarding this policy, please don't hesitate to
contact us!


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## BigTank216

got you , i better read fine print form now own , i had just seen it and thought id share what a seen since it pretaind to train indusrty and MRR .. but i tek note of what u said ed thanks


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## Big Ed

BigTank216 said:


> got you , i better read fine print form now own , i had just seen it and thought id share what a seen since it pretaind to train indusrty and MRR .. but i tek note of what u said ed thanks


A lot of pictures are OK to post, but some sites like that one are a no no, unless you do it the right way. 

Now they might come to your house now and take your trains for punishment.


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## BigTank216

let them Try !! I Be Next On 10pm news

Mod edit: Please watch your language here, I've edited out the offending word(s).


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## gunrunnerjohn

I have removed the posts containing the copyrighted pictures, please be more careful in the future. You can post links to the pictures as stipulated, but not simply copy the pictures.

It's not just use that gets into hot water for copyright issues, the board owners are the ones that take the heat.


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## BigTank216

LOL.. Excution ... no dont wana be put to death atleast not that way lamo ... juzzz lil bored over here $$$ ran out that why im on pause with build for 2weeks (Sucks) 
but hey it's started so i guess sumin better than noda ... but say i was thinking about track placement how far should tracks be placed apart?


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## gunrunnerjohn

On our modular layout, we used 4.5" track spacing, so far we haven't had any collisions.  That spacing is center-to-center.


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## BigTank216

yeah thats what im worried about spacing on wall portion . because we im planning is 2 track setup all way round , meaning i have table almost completed az u seen from previous posts i made but inaddition to dat im planning wall shelf alway round roughly
1ft wide


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## gunrunnerjohn

1 foot wide should be sufficient for two tracks. You'll have to radius the corners to allow for the curves of course.


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## BigTank216

New Question, Im making a list of things to complete scenery and im looking for a 
Diesel Service Facility Pumping Station , i looked at couple places like hobby town usa
and trainsetonly but i cant find sumin that not cheesy looking anyone got a suggestion thanks


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## joed2323

Hobby town usa has mostly nothing, no offense. They are more geared to rc stuff the trains. It makes me mad they never have good structures.

Have you tried modeltrainstuff.com they sell a walthers diesel facility that is pretty sweet:thumbsup:


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## BigTank216

well i shop Depotland.com because they right up street from me lol and hobby town like 20min away i had brought some scratch building materal from them and few tracks but ur right it mostly rc.... but i had seen a video where one guy desiel depot was off hook had cat walk and long arm in all . but i guess i gotts settle for walthers and yes theirs not bad at all


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## joed2323

Also, alot of people scratchbuild there own fueling facility to fit there needs, the walthers kit is a good start then you can keep adding to the facility. 

Im not sure if your after the walthers diesel shop, where its like a 3 bay service facility or what. You could make pits, you can go crazy with alot of things. It all comes down to how much room you have for this on your layout and how what you are trying to create. 

I like that one as well, but i went with the pikestuff engine garage, and i will just add to it with probably the walthers diesel facility and a few other items.


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## BigTank216

Today i Found that plastruct sell everything need to scratch build deisel shop so that shouldnt be issue .. but today i screwed up big time on my benchwork and basically Im just go start over and have peices i need professional cut.. Because 
i dam near cut my friggin hand of with that dang circular saw (Not good) thing is cutting boards lenght wise i suck @ 
im pissed but i'll just chulk it up to experince and do what i shoulda done in beginning... its minor set back that all


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## gunrunnerjohn

Power saws only do one thing well, CUT!

Let's be careful out there.


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## BigTank216

Yeah I Know .. I Need both hands lol i mean i measure twice (thats rule) then i camp 
My guide . but i still get all kinda of kickback (Dangerous) I Think It Might be me
because i got a server lazy eye and vertigo.. so i play it safe let someone do my cutz


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## gunrunnerjohn

My primary saw is a radial-arm saw. In some ways more dangerous than the table saw, but in general it's been very flexible for my needs. With a bandsaw and a router table, I can get most of the woodworking stuff accomplished.


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## Gansett

Chuck Norris is a'scard of radial arm saws!  I had one years ago that tried to bite me. Completely my fault, I was tired, frustrated and rushing,,,but I still blamed the saw!
After my TIA, [mini stroke] I was concerned about my abilities, I still have some weakness on my left side. I've been attached to my fingers for a long time and I know they are no match for 10 inch steel table saw blade spinning at 3,750 rpm. Or a router bit at 10,000+ rpm. Hurt to see my tools go out the door but that's life.


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## norgale

Big Tank do a search on Google Images for "railroad fueling stations" or 'railroad service stations'. You'll get tons of pictures that will tell you where they are and if it's a picture of a model,who makes it. Works every time. pete


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## BigTank216

Well I Called a Local Lumber yard and i be doing buisness with them they do custom millwork and all i gotta do is buy materials their and they do rest, BTw their nothing
like lowe's or home depot.. Far Az Fueling station goes i found everything i need to
accomplish it so im going that route scratch building it after i have got the lumber
up .. but mean time i found plenty pictures to get better idea of things and all i 
have to do is stirr up my creative juice's .Omg chuck norris scared of tools thats 
a good one lol


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