# Portable layout for an apartment dweller



## Subway Fugitive (Jul 16, 2011)

Hello all, some of you know that I am a new entry to the model traction hobby and that I have been researching this for close to a year now. The reason for the indecisiveness is due in part of the fear of making mistakes and mostly due to the lack of money. After considering placing the layout under my futon frame in my very modest apartment or placing it on a 9" wide divider which separates my kitchen from my living area I have decided to build a layout about 4' x 5.5'.
I have 2 sheets of 2' x 8' extruded foam. Well, one of them was 2' x 8' until I needed to cut it in order to get it into my car. I am thinking of building a lightweight frame work of either 1"x3"s or 1"x2"s to rest the 2 pieces of foam side by side. Initially I was thinking of having 1" x 4"s as outside frames to protect the foam but what if a year down the road I want to build another layout and connect them modular style? One option I could follow is to bolt 1" x 4"s to the side of the framework and remove one if I decide to connect it to another module.

1" x 2" are lighter and half the cost of 1" x 3"s. Will they provide enough
support? The 2" thick foam is very sturdy on its own. I want to keep this as lightweight as possible.

I still have the 4' x 5'10" piece of OSB for the ill conceived futon idea but
it's far too heavy to move around comfortably. I wonder if I should just borrow a jig saw, cut huge holes in it to reduce weight and then glue the foam on top of it. Even then being as the only place you can grab it would be on its edges so while it might be light it will still be bulky and awkward to move.

I am thinking of doing something very similar to the Park Avenue Lines in the Traction Guidebook. I figure being that this is my first time out I should keep things simple.

A penny for your thoughts.
http://www.facebook.com/petworthtraction


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## waltr (Aug 15, 2011)

Check out methods of building 'module' layouts. 
Here is an article on building one. The construction techniques should fit your requirements.
http://www.railwayeng.com/Newloop/index.htm

I used a similar method using 1/4 inch thick Luan (underlayment) for the vertical pieces that form the 'box'. Then 2 inch thick foam as the base to build on. The 1/4in luan is also used for the sub-roadbed with roadbed then track.

If you need light weight then don't even consider the OSB. 

Do consider being able to easily move it and get it out through doorways and stairs.

Note:I do have a build thread with pictures on the other Model railroad forum.


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## gofisher2 (Jul 19, 2012)

I second that. Going with a modular layout has many bonuses.

1. Easy to set up and store, light weight (easy to move), and ability to vary the size and configuration. You can make a simple 4x8 from 4-2x4 sections all the way to a massive club layout that fills a good size hall.
2. Can be joined with others in a modular club to make something great as long as you construct it to their club standards.
3. Easy to add additional interest by constructing additional modules that can be swapped in and out.

Club standards usually center around track placement from the front edge and electrical hook ups from one module to another.

There is a fourth bonus of making friends with a similar interest.


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## broox (Apr 13, 2012)

At a local model train show we went to, there was a modular setup called T-Trak... I would assume you have something similar over there


(Lots of info)
http://t-trak.nscale.org.au/



t-trak.nscale.org.au said:


> T-TRAK is a 2-track tabletop modular system and individual modules are smaller than those of other modular systems. Modules are of simple construction and set-up and train running is easy as there are basically no legs or wires to worry about. The T-TRAK concept relies upon the interlocking qualities of Kato Unitrack®.
> 
> ... snip...
> 
> The Australian T-TRAK Guidelines includes the variations of the T-TRAK specifications to suit Australian conditions (eg metric dimensions) and recommendations for use in Australia. The Guidelines are to be used in conjunction with the T-TRAK specifications. The T-TRAK specifications were created by Lee Monaco-FitzGerald and are available from 1150 Wine Country Place, Templeton CA 93465 USA or via the Internet from the official T-TRAK Website (refer Resources in the menu).



(Lots of pictures)
http://www.allgauge.org.au/T-Trak.html



EDIT: 
Link to the official US t-trak page 
http://www.t-trak.org/


Enjoy


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## gofisher2 (Jul 19, 2012)

broox said:


> At a local model train show we went to, there was a modular setup called T-Trak... I would assume you have something similar over there
> 
> 
> (Lots of info)
> ...


That is correct, I believe T-Trak is TT scale which was a forunner to N-Scale. Over here we have N-Trac. Which is a standard set of rules for track position and connection. Someone with a California N-Trac module can take it to a New York club and it will connect into that clubs layout. A very cool idea.


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