# 21088 Franklin Engine



## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Picked up a train set at a recent auction. It contains the Franklin #21088 engine/tender and two older style passenger coaches. No track or transformer. Guess that was one signal of the cheaper days for Gilbert. Nonetheless, I have decided to make this my next repair/service project. The engine works fine from a quick test I gave it attaching the transformer leads. It reverses and smokes as it should. The noticeable issues are that the smoke stack has been repaired somehow because I see a bead of glue or a "JB Weld-like" substance around its base. The front boiler is also chipped/cracked. I picked up both pieces from Doug Peck @ York earlier this year. I'd like to get this repaired to use for a small Christmas layout for my 1-year old grandson. I don't anticipate any difficulty, however as this is all plastic, I have no experience with something so fragile. I'm used to working on the metal die-cast steam engines which are virtually bullet-proof. I did the usual search in this forum but did not see any entries. Has anyone ever worked on one of these or am I the first pioneer to venture here?


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

No direct experience, but JB-Weld with work great if you need to do repairs on the plastic shell. Clean/scuff the surface first. It can be sanded/machined down to shape afterwards.

Enjoy the project!

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I've repaired all sorts of stuff with JB Weld, as TJ says, it's workable after the repair. It doesn't stick to certain plastics all that well, like the flexible stuff you'd find in your kitchen, Tupperware?


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

I understand the qualities of JB Weld. I'm hoping that I can change the damaged parts with the new ones and avoid having to use the stuff. The only reason I mentioned it in my description is that the smoke stack appears to have a bead of this type of material around the base. I'm guessing that it was once broken and repaired with some type of glue. I hope to remove the old one and the glue and replacewith a new piece. Same for the boiler front. However I've never worked with anything like this so I was looking to see if anyone else had. Best thing to do is post photos of the engine and outline the issues so that the forum can see what it is I'm describing. I shall do this shortly once I resurrect it from the storage tomb in which it lies....


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Here are photos to help explain the issues....

First the Franklin engine.

Then the boiler front crack/repair.

Then the smoke stack repair.

I guess it's time to begin disassembly and see what we can see.....


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

I began disassembling this engine last night by removing the screw to the tender link. Then removed the 2 pilot assembly screws, removing the pilot assembly and steam chest slide links. I then removed the red cow-catcher assembly. And finally, I removed the 2 screws at the front of the motor assembly and the one through the roof of the cab that holds the rear of the chassis in the shell. The brass smoke stack insert needs to be unscrewed from the smoke unit before the motor assembly will drop freely from the shell.

After the motor was removed, I inspected the plastic pieces needing attention -- the boiler front and the smoke stack. Then I compared them to the new pieces I obtained from Port Lines. The smoke stack seems correct but the boiler front differs in color. Note the photos to see the difference. The lantern on the top is obviously not painted the correct shade of red. In fact, it appears to be maroon. And the lantern face seems to be painted silver rather than a foil insert as on the original. Of course, I could paint the new piece to match and glue a foil circle in place to duplicate the original, but after further thought, I decided not to proceed with this project. Here's why -- the boiler front is cracked but glued in place. Not only the repaired area, but it's also glued inside the front boiler opening. This appears to be the way it needs to be installed since both mating parts are plastic. To attempt to dislodge this piece in order to install the new one might tend to damage the boiler shell. The same can be said about the smoke stack. Even though it apears that I can simply work it back and forth to "loosen" it from the repair previously performed, I'm afraid I might damage the boiler and thus hves more of a problem. It also has a brass sleeve through the boiler top -- not sure what purpose this serves, other than maybe adding stiffness or rigidity?? This brass sleeve has a substantial bead of the same glue around the inside edge showing evidence that it was also repaired -- or possibly added to aid the smoke stack repair?? There is a photo showing the inside of the boiler but it is difficult to see what I am describing.

This engine runs fine. My goal is to set it up for my 1-year old grandson to see at Christmas. So I see no reason to increase the risk of this occurring by trying to fix items that don't affect the running capabilities. Therefore rather than jeopardize my plans, I'll move onto another project.

One is to add lights to the rolling stock that matches this set. While I am yet unsure how I'll do it, I think that might be a better project to accomplish. Look for that thread to appear shortly.

Thank you all for your tips and suggestions. Perhaps another time I'll tackle this job -- maybe when the pieces finally break off completely.


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

That's a great-looking locomotive---nice acquisition!


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Yes, it is. The wife saw it at an auction and wanted me to get it for the grandson to enjoy. Not that he is old enough yet to do so (1-year old). But we can prime him for when Grandpop's large Flyer collection becomes available. 

There are a few old-style passenger coaches that go along with this engine. Each has the typical opening in the bottom center of the chassis for a 'bayonet-style' lamp socket. Yet only one is lighted. I bought a bunch of these bayonet sockets and intend to illuminate all of them. That's the next project I plan to post in another thread shortly.

I posted a photo from Bob Graves Gallery to show what it looks like.....


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## imatt88 (Jan 31, 2010)

Nice catch Don. 

I've seen these on eBay and I was wondering if they were wort picking up.

Maybe down the road, I've got enough projects right now:laugh:


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Flyer,

I think you're making the right call ...

As long as you can remove and service the motor from the shell as is, I think you're best to leave well-enough alone with the glued parts ... they're there, they're not going anywhere ... let sleeping dogs lie.

And keep the grandson happy!

TJ


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

One thing you can do regarding the visible glue markings. Using an Xacto knife, CAREFULLY chip off the excess glue. With judicious use you will not mark the plastic, and if you do some very fine (1500 grit+) sand paper can smooth is out, and a gentle polish with simichrome paste on a q-tip will remove the marks. I've used similar process on a repaired plastic part several times.

Carl


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Kwikster said:


> One thing you can do regarding the visible glue markings. Using an Xacto knife, CAREFULLY chip off the excess glue. With judicious use you will not mark the plastic, and if you do some very fine (1500 grit+) sand paper can smooth is out, and a gentle polish with simichrome paste on a q-tip will remove the marks. I've used similar process on a repaired plastic part several times.
> 
> Carl


Nice to know. On the behalf of all of us here, thank you!!


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