# What lights do you use



## pat_smith1969 (Aug 21, 2016)

There are a couple different light control systems out there. The "Just Plug" (by Woodland Scenics) and then the "Light Genie". The WS Just Plug is a great easy system but it can be expensive if you have maybe close to 100 lights. The Light Genie system is a bit better but can still add up. 

I get that they have features more than just "turn on and off". But for a large majority of my lights I just want on/off ability. For some of my lights I am totally need something extra but for most, just on and off.

For instance.. I have a Helix which mostly a tunnel through a mountain (like most helices). I want to emulate it being kind of an old mineshaft feel. I am going to add some wood framing on the inside of the tunnel and want to put a couple lights every so many inches to emulate the raw bare bulb lights found in mines. The idea is that if you look in the tunnel portal you will see a long row of wood frames/supports with some lights going off into the distance (actually curving up to the distance). 

How would you attack this problem.. just suck it up and get a comercal product or is there a better DIY solution?


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

This, as with most everything in the hobby, is a tradeoff between time and money. If you want simplicity and ease of assembly / set-up, then a prefab solution is the way to go.

If money is your primary concern, then you will find it much cheaper to do it yourself after purchasing individual components, but it will take you much longer to get it up and running, particularly if your skills aren't quite up to it.

It's really hard to say which is better for you.

We have a saying in project management: cost / schedule / quality -- chose any two!


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

It's not clear what you are asking re: lights.

My first thought is to use old Power packs or
3 rail transformers to power your 100 lights.
The power packs would be needed if you
have LEDs. Either for incandescents.

Both offer variable voltage control to match
the voltage of your bulbs. I would plug them
all into one power strip with an on/off switch.
Each device would also have it's on/off so you
could control various light groups individually.

I use an old Power pack set to 3 volts DC for
my panel LED indicators.

Don


----------



## pat_smith1969 (Aug 21, 2016)

This thread helped a bit http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=11720

But I am still interested in how others do their lighting. I like to hear all the innovative ways others have resolved things I might come across.

I am gong to attempt to use my old Bachmann DC power controller to run my lights. I am thinking that if I get some 3.3v LED lights, put a resistor on them?, then hook that up to my DC power pack I can run a number of lights... If I get to the point where my lights are too much for that power back I can add another.


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

You always want a current limiting resistor when
providing power to LEDs. You can use just one, around
470 ohms is common, but if it is driving a number of 
LEDs you may want a full watt rating.

With that circuit you can adjust the voltage with your
power pack speed control to the brightness you want.
I have mine in a difficult to reach location so no
one can turn the 'speed' control.

In addition to the old power pack driving my 3 turnout
control panel LED indicators, I use a 1 amp 12 volt
DC wall wart
that originally powered a VHS tape rewinder to light
some of my buildings and street lights. A 12 volt
Power pack originally intended to power a game board
drives more of the building lighting.

Flea markets are rife with wall warts that are
usable on your layout. Each has a label that
states it's output as DC or AC, it's voltage and
current capability. Ususally 2 to 10.00 depending
on current capability.

Aa a side note, I use a house door bell transformer
with a rectifier to power my turnouts through
a CPU to protect the twin coils. 

Don


----------



## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

There is a lot of information out there on using LED's. Its a great way to learn about using a Multimeter, Soldering and some basic electronics (V=IxR). My preference is using 12v wallwarts, and 1 k resistors on the LED's. If you want some separate ones to be dimmer then you can get cheap buck converters to reduce the 12 volts or adjust the resistors. The options are endless so I would start by explaining an example of a building or something similar and then evaluate the responses.


----------

