# Why metal wheels?



## SRV1 (Nov 14, 2010)

I just read MR's Basic DCC wiring book and it mentioned the problems you can have at turn outs with wheels being out of spec and causing shorts. It seems some people prefer to go with metal wheels. My question is why wouldn't you stick with plastic on rolling stock and limit the shorts to only worrying about the locomotives? 

Is it assumed that the locos will cause the short anyway? Or do the metal wheels typically have better tolerances? I guess the silver flanges on the wheels would 'look' more accurate.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

I think you might be misinterpreting the the text as far as why it's happening. I have not read that book so I'm only guessing.
There are some significant differences between running a DC layout wiring, and wiring for a DCC layout.
Yes metal wheel sets can cause problems but really only if you don't set up your layout correctly or the wheel sets come out of spec and they become to wide or too narrow of a gauge. 
There are Three Classes of Turnouts, DCC friendly, DCC Half friendly and DCC hostile!
You will get shorts all the time with DCC Hostile!
You will get sporadic shorts with DCC Half Friendly, That is where Loco's, and rolling stock will cause problems in the turnouts!
DCC friendly will allow you to run generally uninterrupted!
The reasons for not wanting to run plastic wheel sets, Is as they run they deposit plastic reside on the rails. They ware at a greater rate and cause derailment issues. They just don't look as good.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

If metal wheels were a problem, they wouldn't make them.
I don't think it's a big deal.

You have a better chance of destroying your electronics with a static charge.


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

SRV1 said:


> My question is why wouldn't you stick with plastic on rolling stock and limit the shorts to only worrying about the locomotives? QUOTE]
> 
> Metal wheels are like a breath of fresh air. Plastic wheels left a lot to be desired. Sean is right on the money. In addition to what he wrote, I would like to say that there were some plastic wheels that would be badly warped or way out of round. Would you believe that some actually had flat places on them. All of this would constantly cause needless derailments. Plastic wheels made by Athearn and Roundhouse weren't too bad, but ones made by some of the other manufacturers were just plain horrible. I really believe with a lot of these manufacturers, quality control just did not exist.
> 
> ...


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## Guest (Mar 15, 2011)

Yeah right said by Routerman,
As metal wheels also helps to decease the maintenance cost and more reliable than plastics one...
Thanks


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

As a newbie, I've been following this thread closely and it's pretty obvious all the experieced guys swear by metal wheels.
My stable of rolling stock is a real smorgasboard of everything out there, except top-shelf stuff, but I've got lots of plastic wheels 
Are all brands of metal wheels pretty much interchangeable with plastic, or do I have to purchase "brand specific"?
Based on prices I've seen on eBay, it will cost me about $3 per car to convert to metal. Sounds expensive at first but I'm hopeful the trade-off of less track cleaning, etc. would make it worthwhile.
I would hope they simply snap in and out of the trucks. True?
Thanks for any input,
Bob


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

For the most part they'll just pop in raleets. You might find on some cars the trucks are twisted and don't like the metal wheelsets in which case you can replace the entire trucks.

The metal wheels also give off a clickety-clack on the tracks that plastic just can't deliver. 

Buy them in bulk packs and you can save some money. 

http://www.walthers.com/exec/search?manu=&item=&words=restrict&split=30&category=CPLRS TRKS&scale=H&instock=Q&keywords=wheel&start=150


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

There are basically only 6 types of wheel sets, and 4 sizes in HO, 3 backs.
TYPES
#1. Most common, pointed end axles.
#2. Round end axles, very old, odd.
#3. Flat/Blunt end, most commonly driven axles.
#4. No extended axle, Driven, Trolleys, diesels, little steam.
#5. Spoked keyed, Steam drivers.
#6. Grove cut wheels for driven traction tires.

BACKS
Ribbed wheel backs, Newer equipment and rolling stock.
Flat wheel backs, Newer equipment and rolling stock.
Spoked, Very rare, Very old equipment and rolling stock.

SIZES
#1 Most common 33", Newer rolling stock. 
#2 Second least common 36",Passenger cars, Older rolling stock.
#3 Various small Dia. diesel, Rare old rolling stock and passenger cars. 
#4 Various large Dia., Steam wheels.

I think that just about covers it.
You will probably need, Pointed end, Flat backed, 33", more that any others.


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

Many thanks, guys.
Seems pretty straight forward, so guess I'll get rollin' 
Bob


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## whurd (Mar 17, 2011)

This just saved me a ton of questions... But I just want to verify the facts. See if I'm learning correctly. According to NIMT I wants ones like this listing.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ATLAS-HO-33-Met...227989?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item4156fbf895

Which are:
Pointed ends.
Flat Wheel backs.
33" sized.
Is this listing a good deal? Or can I do better? That would redo all of my current rolling stock..... I think!?!? 

OK What does Kadee mean when they offer Code 88 or 110? They have the 33" and the rib, but a little confused about the code thing.


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

One final comment: some cars require electricity for lights and working mechanisms. Metal wheels are a requirement, in their case.


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