# noisy loco



## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

Howdy. problem with my GP& backmann loco DCC. its a noisy lil guy at low speed or starting speeds up till about 14 or so on my NCE power cab. ive tried changing all the cvs and nothing works. its very noisy untill i give it some speed . what could be the problem.
1 bad dcc board its oem backmann poss need to be replaced with better ?
2 just junk loco.
3 bad motor . 
its a humming noise real load till it gets some speed. slow movement is not possable untill i turn it way up. 7 or 8 and its noisy there too. 
Im thinking these backmanns are junk . this is the second one i bought that has had problems . the first one didnt even run just flickered then shot off down the track at full speed then died. i realy like the kato locos but the dont have rapido couplers and my intermountain works so good and i can put rapidos on it too. I may have to get more of them intermountain locos . i like them.


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

why does this pic show side ways . i cant flip it here. its right on my puter.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Sid

Remove the shell and recheck for noise.

Very often the shell will vibrate against the
frame and that's what you hear. If so you
might try shims to eliminate the vibration.

If it still makes the noise with the shell off
see if you can identify the part doing it.

If it's a buzz, some have reported that some
Bachmann factory decoders will cause the motor
to buzz. If so you could replace the original with
an NEC or Digitrax decoder to quiet it down. Or
get a nice set of ear plugs.

Don


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

ok ill check that out. i have read some place people replace the decoders because of that. but now i cant find reference to that. i dont think its the shell as its more electrical buzzing. but i will check that out Thanks. humm ear plugs hahahahaha


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

well i finaly got the shell off and ran it on the track. it was definitely quieter than with the shell. i think its echoing the sound . any who , I still can not change the cvs they just dont do nothing after the change. so bottom line lesson learned NO more backmanns for sid NOPE . off to the scrap pile these go. they might be better off as dc only because there crap for dcc.


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## rrjim1 (Mar 12, 2015)

I own a few Bachmann locos and haven't had a single problem changing CVs with my Digitrax system. I also don't have any noisy Bachmann. S4s, F7s, GP7s just to name a few all run just fine.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

sid said:


> well i finaly got the shell off and ran it on the track. it was definitely quieter than with the shell. i think its echoing the sound . any who , I still can not change the cvs they just dont do nothing after the change. so bottom line lesson learned NO more backmanns for sid NOPE . off to the scrap pile these go. they might be better off as dc only because there crap for dcc.


Well, I think that's throwing the baby out with the bathwater.

Buy DCC-ready units and add your own, quality decoder.

But whatever. Your layout, your rules.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

rrjim1 said:


> I own a few Bachmann locos and haven't had a single problem changing CVs with my Digitrax system. I also don't have any noisy Bachmann. S4s, F7s, GP7s just to name a few all run just fine.


What brand of decoder is in them? And "noisy" or "buzzy" is a personal thing. What bothers me may not bother you.

Also, I don't think he means the CV's can't be changed, but that nk amount of changing the CV's fixes the problem.


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

i went into the cvs to change the values and they do change but they do nothing to the locos. they just run the same way they did when i bought them. i downloaded a page for that one gp7 and it says to change the cv # 2 for speed control , well that didnt do nothing at all. all my locos are dcc equiped i order them ready to go. but so far all i have is bad luck with backmann. i have included the page that ive been using. . it would really help if you had a clue to tell me how to get them changed so this darn loco can run at a slow slow pace . the noise is an electrical buzz. like you hold a motor the power it up but dont let it turn. i dont have a clue what brand decoder is in it. all i know is it says decoder 101 ver 46 it came with the backmann gp7. im getting more an more frustrated with this darn thing. both have been nothing but trouble. so far the Arnold works no problem and the intermountain was a breeze to setup.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

You have a PowerCab, right? You can read back CV's with it, I think. See what CV#2 is actually set to. That determines how much voltage goes to the motor in speed step one. You should be able to set that so that the loco just creeps along in that speed step. Change the setting for CV#2, then read it back and confirm that it got reprogrammed. It it's not changing, try programming it on the main instead of the programming track (some programming tracks have lower voltage and don't have enough to actually program the CV, although that's usually a problem with sound decoders, not regular ones). If it won't program, reset to factory defaults and try again.

But for my money, I'd just yank out that Bachmann decoder and install one from NCE, Digitrax, or TCS.


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

ctvally Ive done exactly like you discribed above it just wont take. ive done it on the main an program track. this thing has drivin me nuts. I read some place that it cant be chaged no matter what i do. I do not know what other decoder i can put in it. if some body knows . please let me know. i dont mind changing it out. im out a lot of money on these stupid things already. 
RRJIM if you know how to change these cvs and make them stick please advise me how to do it. as ive done every thing there is to change them and nothing works. they are stuck at there setting. this is just crazy all this on a stupid lil thing that should be a cake walk. its very irritating . it should not be this complicated


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Noise source*



sid said:


> well i finaly got the shell off and ran it on the track. it was definitely quieter than with the shell. i think its echoing the sound . any who , I still can not change the cvs they just dont do nothing after the change. so bottom line lesson learned NO more backmanns for sid NOPE . off to the scrap pile these go. they might be better off as dc only because there crap for dcc.


sid;

The noise problem may well have nothing to do with the CVs, and may possibly not even be related to the decoder, though I'm not ruling that out.
Since the loco got a lot quieter when you took the shell off, maybe something is vibrating against the shell, and making the noise. You might do what DonR suggested and run the loco slowly, without the shell, and look carefully at what's moving and making noise. If you find something vibrating, maybe you can repair it. Another trick you can try, if you want, is to glue thin pieces of a rubber band on the outside of the mechanism, to keep the shell from vibrating as much. Sometimes this helps muffle the sound a bit.

good luck;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

sid said:


> ctvally Ive done exactly like you discribed above it just wont take. ive done it on the main an program track. this thing has drivin me nuts. I read some place that it cant be chaged no matter what i do. I do not know what other decoder i can put in it. if some body knows . please let me know. i dont mind changing it out. im out a lot of money on these stupid things already.
> RRJIM if you know how to change these cvs and make them stick please advise me how to do it. as ive done every thing there is to change them and nothing works. they are stuck at there setting. this is just crazy all this on a stupid lil thing that should be a cake walk. its very irritating . it should not be this complicated


So if I understand you right, the VALUE of the CV won't change, no matter what you do? Assuming that your Powercab is functioning properly and you can program OTHER CVs on other locos, it's a bad decoder.

Any N-scale decoder with the the same amp draw and pin configuration will work. You can even buy adapters for different pin configurations.


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

CTV thats correct. the cv value shows that i changed it . but the loco remains the same. i dont know how to replace this decoder as it is a slide in unit that uses the frame to both hold it and also get power. the only thing that is soldered is the wires coming from decoder to the wheels. everyt thing else is slide in contact. if that makes sence. 

Tracton I ran the loco with out the shell and it did get a lil quiter. like i said i dont thing its vibrating as much as its just echoing the sound louder. . i can fell the buzz when i hold the loco motor between my fingers and squeeze it. 
...............................................................
Now i just got another backmann in its a lil switcher and it does the exact same thing. except its not loud buzz. but the decoder does the same thing it will not change the cvs. but it runs a lil better. although much slower at least. its not fast at all so its pulling car slow like i want it too IE creeping along


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Actually, that's completely the opposite of what I said. 

Please don't get offended, but you may want to go back and double check to make sure you're doing the programming correctly. The Bachmann brand decoders buzzed (or made the motor buzz) on me, but they worked just fine with an MRC Prodigy Wireless system. Having all of those locos be defective or non-functional is stretching the laws of probability a little too much.


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

yes i know that. but i state earlier that i changed the cvs but the loco does not change. ive done this about 25 times now and its the same every time. cvs dont hold some times it will show the cvs have changed but the loco does not respond to the change . ive tried on the main and on the program track it does not matter . i can video it and show you exactly what its doing. i have other locos that program just fine. but these two backmanns just wont change. the switcher works fine for me right now , but it too will not change the cvs . ive tried changing them and then tilt the loco to one side , ive tried changing them and just run them after . ill flippin send them to you if you can change them. but right now they wont respond to the changes. and the cvs go back to what every it was programed to from the factory. hell i even manged to make it not work at all. then go back and change the cv 8 to 8 to get back to factory. Now that part works just fine. bottom line they will not save the cvs no matter what i do. hence my frustration with backmann.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

not sure if I have this right ....
you can not save any CV's with the exception of CV8 ,the master reset?
But only with Bachmann's, is that right ?


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

WVgca I can change the cvs . Then i can go back an check to see if what i changed is there and in fact they are there. but the loco does not repond to the changes ive made. IE loco still does what it did when i recieved it. Then i go back and see the cvs and some times they are there and some times there not. HERE is what i do exactly................ i put loco on program track....... i use the nce power cab and change loco from 3 digit address to four then i go to the cvs settings ... I change cv # 2 (start voltage to 1-5 ) then i change cv #3 acceleration to 1 or 2 ..... then i hit the program escape button till im back at the part where i run the loco.......then run loco and it runs exactly like it did from the factory. i dont know what else to do . ive reset it back CV 8 to 8 and started again with no luck. very frustrating. i rechecked this morning and the cvs are the same as when i changed them last night. cv # 3 is 2 and cv#3 is 1 .....am i not doing it right.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I can't speak to the mechanics of how you program a CV. Certainly a lot more button mashing than Prodigy, but whatever.

Taking you at your word that you listed every single step you performed, there are a couple of things I'd do differently.

First of all, only change one parameter or CV at a time while troubleshooting. Except the loco address, which won't affect anything else. 

CV2 adjusts the initial voltage sent to the motor in speed step 1. When you say 1-5, I assume you mean that you set the CV to 15 (which does NOT mean 15 volts, but is rather approximately half of the max, which is 31, according to the spec sheet you posted). The problem may be that you are running it on the programming track, which usually has a lower voltage than the main. So your motor may not be seeing the same voltage there that it would on the main. The default setting for that CV (again, per your spec sheet) is 10, so you're not making a huge change either. Set it to 20. Relocate your loco to the main and test it. Does it move in Speed Step 1? If not, try 25. If you go all the way to 31 without the loco starting in step 1, then you may have a bad decoder. Again, it's important that you use operating, not programming voltage to make your test. At the point where it jumps to a start (assuming you get there), dial back the Start Voltage until you're happy.

Assuming you get that working, THEN go on to the acceleration delay. Note that this variable changes how fast the locomotive changes speed from it's previous speed setting to it's new one, not how fast it starts from a dead stop. Just going to one or two may not be enough. And the default value is 1, so again, you're not making much of a change. You should be able to test this ok on the programming track, but don't count on it. For a guess, I usually start at a value of 20 (it goes up to 255).

Decoders from the same manufacturer usually respond similarly to the same CV settings, but that's not true for different manufacturers. Don't rely only on the settings of your other locomotives to determine a good setting for these guys. It's really just a matter of trial and error.


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

CTV quote ,,CV2 adjusts the initial voltage sent to the motor in speed step 1. When you say 1-5, I assume you mean that you set the CV to 15 (which does NOT mean 15 volts, but is rather .. no i set it at 1 then after that did not work i went up the line 1 then 2 then 3 an so on....
quote :: The problem may be that you are running it on the programming track, which usually has a lower voltage than the main. So your motor may not be seeing the same voltage there that it would on the main... i program it on the program track an run it on the main. 
QUOTE:: The default setting for that CV (again, per your spec sheet) is 10, so you're not making a huge change either. Set it to 20. Relocate your loco to the main and test it. Does it move in Speed Step 1? If not, try 25. If you go all the way to 31 without the loco starting in step 1, then you may have a bad decoder. Again, it's important that you use operating, not programming voltage to make your test. At the point where it jumps to a start (assuming you get there), dial back the Start Voltage until you're happy.
Now this i have not tried at all . ill give that a try 
QUOTE: ok if she goes then ill give this a try also Thank You I sure hope this works


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

ok CTV i changed cv2 to 20 relocated loco to main and it made no difference... so i went back to program track and set cv2 to 25 and again back onto main still made no diference... again i changed it to cv2 31 made no difference.. but i did mange to change something because just for giggles i changed cv3 to 31 an cv2 to 31 then the loco would just barley and i mean barley move at full throttle. so i reset loco to factory by changing cv8 to 8 and the loco went back to its normal self... weird loco me thinks i need to send it to bachmann for repairs under warranty.


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

ok i was playing with the cvs again this time i changed only cv4 to 31 loco moved but took time to slow down cv3 to 31 loco barley moved at all just changeing cv2 did nothing at all. i tried just on the main change everything and i also just changed on program track then move to main for test same results. both my bachmanns do this. but im happy with the swticher just the way it is . but that rio grande needs to be changed so it starts at 1 or 2 so far it just buzzs at 1 thru 8 then starts moving slowly and about 14 it goes at a good slow speed on my controller. i think its gone wacky my self.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Send 'em back for a replacement decoder. They obviously have a bad batch of them floating around out there.


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

sent them back to bachmann for repairs . now this is prob gunna be a while before i get them back. . i dont think im going to buy any more bachmanns. way to much trouble. and cost. just one big head ache is all they are . in my experience so far.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

don't know... I've got maybe ten Bachmann's in geared steam, and probably a half dozen Bachmann's in DCC on board diesels .././ never ran into those problems ??


Mind you, all of mine are HO, but that should't make a difference there ?


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

howdy wvgca . ive had nothing but trouble with bachmann dcc N locos. I have er had bachmann dc locos , They were real good locos . they ran very nice from slow to fast never a glitch. but the dcc ones totally different story. im completely sure there not worth a dime. the thing is , I asked the seller to test them before he sent them to me and he said he did. well that was B/S . This whole ordeal has almost made me stop this new hobby completely. I was so mad that i was gunna smash the thing with my hammer. but after a nights sleep I tried one more time , then said to my self send them back and get repairs. now if they come back and there not working right they will get thrown into the trash and i will never buy another bachmann ever. i really dont think ill buy another one any way either way. i dont need that frustration. i love the kato unit and the intermountain i have . i also have an Arnold it worked pretty good but it ate the rubber tires right off in a short time. so its going away too. Maybe i just got a bad batch of bachmanns , but its enough to tell me not to buy any more. waste of my time messing with them and money. could have bought some more kato track instead. lol Im glad your having luck with yours. Happy rail roading to ya


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Well, I agree with wvgca -- I have four (HO scale) Bachmanns, and they're all good runners with decent detail. Granted, they were all DC locos that I added my own decoders to (my experience with Bachmann decoders was installing them in my son's locos, which were 2 Athearns and a Walthers Mainline).

I think you're throwing the baby out with the bathwater, but I don't have a dog in this fight. There are plenty of other suppliers out there.


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

CTV yup theres one think i hate an thats throwing money at a sinking ship. ill post update on returned locos if an when they return. i hope its a fast return . but im not holding my breath. hahahahah. OH ya when i talked to the seller he stated that many have had to be returned go figger.


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## rrjim1 (Mar 12, 2015)

There is probably nothing wrong with your loco, your trying to do something that the decoder isn't able to do. There is a reason why the Bachmann locos are inexpensive, they use a very simple DCC decoder. Some people that aren't happy with the decoder simply install a different decoder with more functions. I have several and they work pretty well with my Digitrax system. My Alco S4 switchers work very well and I use them a lot. 
I would reset the decoder and read CV2, adjust only 1 to 2 at a time. I believe max is 15. CV3 & 4 max is 31 again read what is the default and adjust slowly, you might want to go down on CV3 to get the loco to start quicker.


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## Xnats (Dec 5, 2010)

What Jim said. If you like a Bachmann engine for it's looks, buy it just get a aftermarket decoder to go with it. Their decoders are just junk. You'll be surprised how well it runs after swapping out the decoder.


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

look guys ive done all this and it does not matter the loco simply,y does not respond to what cv i changed. I have thought about getting a new decoder for that. but how do u attach wires to the frame . i dont think you can solder to the frame. i can drill holes in it but now im out even more $$$$ cause i have to buy drill bits an taps ect. i dont like bachmann because its bachmann . i wanted rapido couplers because the knuckle couplers just dont work for me other wise i would not buy bachmann at all . thats how all this bs started in the first place.


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

rrjim im just trying to change cv2 so the loco will state moving on my power cab at # 1 or # 2 instaed of # 14 and it will not work and it should work.


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## Xnats (Dec 5, 2010)

Can you take 2 pics with the shell off, a side view and a top view. A decoder swap might be easy, key word might.
To be honest it most likely will never run smooth with the stock decoder. They are set up to run like old Tycos, o to full throttle. My Bachmann 44 ton is my best slow running engine after adding in a Digitrak plug and play board.


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

Xnats said:


> Can you take 2 pics with the shell off, a side view and a top view. A decoder swap might be easy, key word might.
> To be honest it most likely will never run smooth with the stock decoder. They are set up to run like old Tycos, o to full throttle. My Bachmann 44 ton is my best slow running engine after adding in a Digitrak plug and play board.


would be glad to , but its gone. i sent it to bachmann for repairs as its a new loco so its under warranty. as soo as i get it back ill post back as to weather they fixed it or not. I understand they dont have the best decoders in them but they should at least let you program them. i was reading up on installing new decoders . my dc bachmann runs pretty slow but thats dc. i have it on ebay, but if it dont sell i might keep it for future poss dcc install if i can figger out how to do that.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

rrjim1 said:


> There is probably nothing wrong with your loco, your trying to do something that the decoder isn't able to do. There is a reason why the Bachmann locos are inexpensive, they use a very simple DCC decoder. Some people that aren't happy with the decoder simply install a different decoder with more functions. I have several and they work pretty well with my Digitrax system. My Alco S4 switchers work very well and I use them a lot.
> I would reset the decoder and read CV2, adjust only 1 to 2 at a time. I believe max is 15. CV3 & 4 max is 31 again read what is the default and adjust slowly, you might want to go down on CV3 to get the loco to start quicker.


Sid posted the spec sheet for the decoder back on the first page of posts. Might want to check that out and rethink some of this guidance.

And FWIW, when I'm tweaking CV#2, I start with fairly large jumps (+/- 5 or more), then gradually dial it back in.


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## rrjim1 (Mar 12, 2015)

CTValleyRR said:


> Sid posted the spec sheet for the decoder back on the first page of posts. Might want to check that out and rethink some of this guidance.
> 
> And FWIW, when I'm tweaking CV#2, I start with fairly large jumps (+/- 5 or more), then gradually dial it back in.


That's not the correct spec sheet for that loco, I own two of Bachmann N-scale GP7 locos, do you. I also own over 300 n-scale locos and almost all of them don't need CV#2 adjusted, if so its usually just 2 or 3. You might want to rethink some of your guidance.


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## rrjim1 (Mar 12, 2015)

sid said:


> rrjim im just trying to change cv2 so the loco will state moving on my power cab at # 1 or # 2 instaed of # 14 and it will not work and it should work.


Yes, I know what your trying to do. These are the setting I use with the exact same locos, and they start at speed set 1, but they do make a little noise. CV#2 = 10, CV#3 = 4, CV#4 =4.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

rrjim1 said:


> , but they do make a little noise. CV#2 = 10, CV#3 = 4, CV#4 =4.



so, some noise is -kinda- normal for this unit in N scale?
They are not usually perfectly quiet ?


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## rrjim1 (Mar 12, 2015)

wvgca said:


> so, some noise is -kinda- normal for this unit in N scale?
> They are not usually perfectly quiet ?



Its the bare bones decoder that causes the loco to make a kind of buzzing noise. Better decoders have noise reduction like, Digitrax decoders have SuperSonic motor drive for quiet operation (silent operation).


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

ok so do you have the correct sheet for this loco and the cv settings so that it will run on setting 1 or 2 instead of running on 11 or 12.. ?????? come on man info hahahahahha


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

rrjim1 said:


> That's not the correct spec sheet for that loco, I own two of Bachmann N-scale GP7 locos, do you. I also own over 300 n-scale locos and almost all of them don't need CV#2 adjusted, if so its usually just 2 or 3. You might want to rethink some of your guidance.


Chill, dude! I'm only as good as the information I'm given. The fact that you own two identical locomotives and knew that he was using the wrong spec sheet would also have been a good bit of information to have up front, and would have changed my response to you. I flunked my course in ESP in college, so you gotta give me this stuff up front.

I keep the spec sheet for every decoder in my fleet in a binder, with the name and cab number of the loco printed on it. I guess I've been at this too long, and the fact that someone wouldn't be aware of differences between decoders and would therefore not locate the correct spec sheet for the loco in question isn't the first thing I think of when troubleshooting.

But for setting CV#2, despite your experience with your locomotives, the OP clearly DID need to tweak it, and since it doesn't hurt anything to start with a bigger interval and then dial it back, I stand by my guidance. Some of my locos have required significant increases in order to get to that "just crawling in speed step one" level.


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

as far as i know that was the correct sheet. it has the decoder 101 ver 46 thats whats in the locos both of them. I got it from bachmann web site.


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

ok i went back through and reread every thing . so cv set at or above 10 and cv 3 between 1-7 . i checked this with another loco i have and that worked sorta it still starts running at 9 or so. but was better. . a side note i got my new NMRA gauge today in da mail. but the rio never responded to any thing . except not run at all hahahahah waiting for it to return.


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## rrjim1 (Mar 12, 2015)

CTValleyRR, I don't read every post so I didn't know he was using the wrong spec sheet. There you go trying to use ESP again. The reason I tried to help was because I already when through setting up two of the same N-SCALE locos. The correct procedure here is to always make small adjustments at a time, and that goes for just about everything that needs adjusting.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

rrjim1 said:


> CTValleyRR, I don't read every post so I didn't know he was using the wrong spec sheet. There you go trying to use ESP again. The reason I tried to help was because I already when through setting up two of the same N-SCALE locos. The correct procedure here is to always make small adjustments at a time, and that goes for just about everything that needs adjusting.


Setting CV#2 is a bit of an art. The speed step in which the loco starts moving tells me how big of an adjustment I need to make. If it's up around 8 (on 28 step), then you know you need a fairly big increase, so why not make it initially? There isn't a "correct" procedure.


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

rrjim1 still looking for that corect sheet got a link to where it is hummm hahahah


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

This may seem like a silly comment, but I have never actually purchased a model with factory installed DCC. I prefer to add my own, that way I know I'm getting good quality.

Don't manufacturers include the decoder information in the box? If not, in my mind that's another reason to avoid factory installed decoders.


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

CTV they put just what you need to know to get it going down the tracks. nothing else. at least with these 2 that i bought. there were no papers explaining how to change cvs ect. I went to bachmann site and thats where i got the pfd posted earlier. there are other papers out there,but there for different decoders.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

So what led you to pick THAT particular decoder, and not the installed one?


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

CTV I didnt change the decoder it was what was installed by factory .


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

sid said:


> CTV I didnt change the decoder it was what was installed by factory .


Sorry I wasn't clear. I meant the _*spec sheet*_ for that particular decoder rather than the one that was installed.


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

could not find one. thats why i asked jim to show me the correct sheet if he in fact has it. so far NADDA. if i have the wrong one then why did bachmann give me that sheet. i got it from bachmann for that loco. still waiting jim


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Bachmann specifically told you to use that spec sheet, huh? Customer service must have been having a really bad day.


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## sid (Mar 26, 2018)

well update got the loco back WOW there fast. but loco still does not respond to cv changes , But its not as noisy now. so i say crap with bachmann. at least the decoder any way.


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## MatroxD (Jan 19, 2018)

sid said:


> well update got the loco back WOW there fast. but loco still does not respond to cv changes , But its not as noisy now. so i say crap with bachmann. at least the decoder any way.


Hi dude.. From what your describing, it is the decoder. Those things buzz like mad.. And it's really especially noticeable if you have heard other locos with different decoders that actually can change, and aren't buzz machines..

I changed all my locos (with the exception of an atlas that I purchased with a NCE decoder in it) to soundtraxx decoders(my 2 N scale Bachmann, one is sound, and the other is non sound). Honestly, with the exception of the small size, it's pretty easy to swap them out. It's really a simple color code matching, between the decoder that is currently installed, and the new decoder. It requires soldering of course, but it's not that bad.

The benefits are much another running, quiet, and you can do anything with the CV values easily. I am not saying go soundtraxx because I like them, because there are many different brands that work well and better than Bachman imho. But once you get a different decoder, just look forward to changing all the decoders out. The mechanics are mostly good in the Bachmann engines, it's just the chips they come with (like you mentioned the one that the light flickered, and then nothing.. Decoder dude).

The decoders to replace, start around 20.00,and work well... Even though they are inexpensive. My next decoder move honestly is to change the decoder in the one locomotive I had that was non DCC, and I placed the old Bachmann decoder in it. It works yes, but guess what? Same buzzing, same choppy performance. A simple digitrax that's around 25.00(i think it's the 1326)will solve all these things. I could go with another soundtraxx, but I want to try a digi..

But that's my suggestion and hypothesis from my experience.. 

Oh.. And the replacement decoders I have, are double side taped(and isolated) in the place of the old decoder. They are usually much, much smaller, so it's easy to fit them in the Loco.. 

Hope this helps... 

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