# my first step into prewar



## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

hey guys long time no see! so i want to the train show this past weekend just for kicks and got inspired. i was looking at some prewar units and decided it was time i got my hands on one. went on eBay and got my hands on a 154 nyc 0-4-0 engine. shes a beaut but needs some major TLC! so heres my progress so far. just got it today disassembled the cab and frame from the motor unit and started stripping the paint. i need some major advice. i need to find some literature on maybe some restoring tips tear downs maybe somewhere i can find parts if they exist..... but heres some work so far


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## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

this is what it started as. it seems to be all there.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, they're pre-war, but it looks like they actually participated in the war!


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## tooter (Feb 26, 2010)

It'll be fun to watch your project unfold. 

Restoring old stuff is one of the more fascinating aspects of model railroading. Even though I'm postwar, I've always liked the mechanical toy look of tin. 


Greg


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Nice find, it looks good as is
it needs lots of help! 
I can't wait to see how it ends up! 
I'll be mad if you get it painted before mine! 
I like the fact that your taking something hardly anyone in there right mind would want and make it something desirable. Good job. And keep the updates coming.


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## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

whats going to be the best way to work the tin. the body is straight the frame is pretty bents. i wanna have the frame primed asap so i gotta attempt to straighten it out


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I used a hammer and vise mostly on mine. It worked Ok. Go slow and take your time with it. Disclaimer, I am no way an expert on these things. Small imperfections can be filled in with bondo and sanded.


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## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

so heres a little more progress. got myself a dremmel today and cleaned the body up and made it nice and smooth. started working on the lower frame marking it nice and straight....or trying to atleast.


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## mywong23 (Feb 5, 2014)

up until a few months ago, when I started shopping, I never knew pre-war trains existed...
then I'd see some in estate sales and thought:

_"wow, look at the old couplers... 
gee, these cars look interesting....
could I add/adapt these to my post war set...?"_

obviously, the cars I saw didn't need restoration.
nor do I have your patience and motivation ---- but applaud your efforts to
resurrect and respect pre-war trains.

kudos to you.
look forward to seeing your rewarding progress.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

It'll be interesting to see the finished product. It's coming along, soon it'll just be an observer to the ongoing war.


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## RedManBlueState (Jan 9, 2013)

njoffroader said:


> View attachment 35288


Nice weathering! Oh, wait, never mind.


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## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

i definitely bit off a little more than i can chew but hey whats the fun in not being challenged. today im going to prime the body for paint. i havent even started on the eletrics yet.


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## wsboyette (Jan 25, 2014)

Nice restoration project... Would love to do one of those locos myself.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Are you going to take the handrails off first?


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Good job bending that out. Did you strip off all the paint? I can't tell! Easy off does wonders for stripping older paint. Any way to try and straighten out the cow catcher a bit? Or you could just lay a plastic cow on the side of the road and problem solved In all seriousness, your doing great, I'm on my fourth or fish repaint on mine. A small block of wood and a tack hammer might help the cow catcher a bit. And if you disassemble it and it has tabs be careful not to break them (I don't have one do I don't know about the tabs). And there is something alluring about the pre war stuff. The age, the simplicity of the way it was constructed. But back then it was probably futuristic. Way cool!


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## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

ok another update. body is primed. the frame was striped but not really cleaned up. the cow catchers are giving me the biggest issue. im trying to get the angles right but without having a model in front of me im going by pictures. ed i left the Hand rails on for the prime. i think im going to paint them not too sure yet. but heres the body primed. going to be painting tomorrow


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## ColtsKurt (Jan 28, 2012)

wow. Appears you have the _smoothing_ process down pat…
Very nice.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

WOW, what a difference!  I think you'll have a winner on your hands when you're done.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

They aren't brass right? (handrails)

What flavor are you going to paint it?
I think a different color for the handrails would look good.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

You didn't mention this I don't think, does she run?


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## tooter (Feb 26, 2010)

njoffroader said:


> ok another update. body is primed. the frame was striped but not really cleaned up. the cow catchers are giving me the biggest issue. im trying to get the angles right but without having a model in front of me im going by pictures. ed i left the Hand rails on for the prime. i think im going to paint them not too sure yet. but heres the body primed. going to be painting tomorrow
> 
> View attachment 35307


Absolutely beautiful! 

It would look really neato if the railings were replaced with some pieces of common 12 gauge solid copper wire. Copper and your flat green paint would really go great together.

Greg


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

tooter said:


> Absolutely beautiful!
> 
> It would look really neato if the railings were replaced with some pieces of common 12 gauge solid copper wire. Copper and your flat green paint would really go great together.
> 
> Greg


Polished brass would look good too.

Where do you see flat green paint?
The last picture? I think that is gray primer.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The second post has the green paint. Apparently removed before the first picture was taken.


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## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

i might paint the handrails red to match the wheels and windows. it was raining today and too cold to paint. so i worked on the motor. im having major problems. does anyone know where i can see a schematic or even get parts. there is some kind of switch im having major voltage drops.


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## tooter (Feb 26, 2010)

big ed said:


> Polished brass would look good too.
> 
> Where do you see flat green paint?
> The last picture? I think that is gray primer.


Looks green on my screen, Ed. 

Greg


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Early
http://olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=754

Late
http://olsenstoy.com/cd/b123/000301.pdf

Though not much help.
Olsen's might have some parts you will have to look.

Post some pictures of the problem piece, maybe someone can help.


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## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

the part that is giving me issues is this 4 pole switch or junction if you will. when i took it apart there was springs and a cap. are there supposed to be brushes in there? when i apply track voltage i have voltage from pickup and getting to the coil but none at motor. does anyone know if i can replace the whole unit. when i search the part i found the springs but it shows them with brushes. ive rewired it following wire for wire and have continuity between but just not getting voltage to the motor


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

They are more of a bearing than a brush. Look for rotary switch parts.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

http://www.ttender.com/partphotos/index.html


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## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

okay so heres some fresh laid paint on the body. i think im going to paint the handrails red to match the accents on the wheels and the windows. frame has yet to be primed. im still working on getting it totally straightened out. i realize im never going to get it perfect but im being really particular about it.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Ahhh, I see the green now. 
Some dents will give it character. 

Though in your new picture......right lower side, I think you could have tapped that dent out easy enough.

Go back and click advanced editing, manage attachments (the paper clip), and click on the link there. 
The picture here will come up a picture instead of a link.


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## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

Looking good! Is that thin paint on the right near the vent holes, or just weird light effects?


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## daveh219 (Sep 16, 2012)

NJoffroader...which accessory did you use with your dremel?? Looking to do the same with a AF model of mine...


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## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

It must be the lighting effects. I put quite a few coats on it. I used a brass wire wheel to smooth it out. Fore warning buy a few they wear out quick


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## daveh219 (Sep 16, 2012)

Thanks...

Daveh


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## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

That is looking very good so far! Cant wait to see the finished product! Just a warning to sweep up carefully after using those wire wheels, darn wires come off and stick in your feet
Randy


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

It's starting to come together, don't forget eye protection and heavy clothing with the dremal.


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## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

sjm9911 said:


> It's starting to come together, don't forget eye protection and heavy clothing with the dremal.


yes absolutely. but I have some great news. after rewiring the motor and finding an open on the ground side of the coil she runs!. I also primed the frame. what's going to be the best way to clean up the wheels? maybe a wire wheel?

also side note prewar locos don't like fastrack switches. the flanges are too thick.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Great news, running is always good. The dremal with a copper or brass brush. The steel type stuff can get make a mess of some engines. If there is a lot of build up a scraping with a flat screwdriver helps first. Then after its oiled up, wipe the wheels down with alcohol to get any residue off.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

A Stainless brush would work too.
What ever kind of brush you use will come apart.

Clean and lube it as long as it is out.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Nothing, and I do mean NOTHING, beats the thrill of seeing an old motor fire back up to life for the first time in years and years. Congrats!

Wheels: Dremel with brush ... perhaps stainless (copper colored shaft, rather than chrome colored shaft), but test on the back side of the flange, first. FYI, I'm using a stainless brush 99% of the time.


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## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

I like to use the Dremel 511E EZ Lock Finishing Abrasive Buffs - 180 & 280 grit (2 Pack). They work extremely well for me and no wires stuck in my feet! They do wear out pretty quick but I clean everything with them!
Randy


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## carinofranco (Aug 1, 2012)

rdmtgm said:


> I like to use the Dremel 511E EZ Lock Finishing Abrasive Buffs - 180 & 280 grit (2 Pack). They work extremely well for me and no wires stuck in my feet! They do wear out pretty quick but I clean everything with them!
> Randy


I use them too for a lot of cleaning and de rusting. You have to be careful to not run them over a sharp edge as that will tear out the wheel and ruin it pretty fast.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

I was able to get the wheels cleaned up nice though I was considering getting new ones...though at 20 bucks a pop I decided against it. so back to the dremel and couple of hours later and some enamel paint I got them looking pretty good so far. the frame is painted too. how long do I have to wait for enamel paint to fully cure? I notice my finger prints are showing up when I touch the body and frame. im afraid to wipe them off. I don't want the paint to rub off too.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I'm the last guy to give painting advice, as seen here http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=23251 but it does take a while. I was waiting a good week in between coats, just to be sure. Read the paint can, it will usually say.


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## Handyandy (Feb 14, 2012)

Lookin' good. Can't wait to see how this turns out.


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## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

ok so I have an update. I painted the handrails and windows. I also put the decals on. now I still have some work to do like some touchups but I want to wait for it to cure. but here are some pics please don't be to critical.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

WOW! What a transformation! Great job! :smilie_daumenpos:


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

Nothing to criticize, looks really nice. Well done :smilie_daumenpos: :smilie_daumenpos: :smilie_daumenpos:


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Quite a change from the starting point, that's for sure!


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Looks great! It looks even better on the layout. Congratson a job well done!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Looks great. :smilie_daumenpos:
On that side, hows the other side?


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Nice rehab! How does it pull?


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## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

She's definitely feels strong. I have no prewar cars yet. From what I understand there were two types of couplers for prewar era. I also have to figure out a way it can navigate through fast switches without trying to jump the track


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Two basic types of prewar couplers ... latch and box. The box will mate to the latch, too. The box was semi-automated ... a precursor to Lionel's knuckle coupler.


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## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

so I could get any prewar car and it will mate up to my coupler? so in a sense there backwards compatible


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Well, not really. Lionel prewar latch will mate to Lionel prewar box. But Ives and Marx couplers will not, nor will very eary (1910's, early 1920's) Lionel cars. It was a bit crazy how many different coupler types were use ... to some extent, to force potential customers to stay loyal to one brand!

TJ


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## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

ive been having some trouble finding cars with the old style coupler. ive found plenty of latch couplers but not the coupler I have


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