# Is there an art to putting trains on the track?



## Area57 (Nov 8, 2015)

Lol I think I suck at putting my trains on the track. All of them being new, I would switch them around frequently. It's pretty difficult actually to get the wheels in there just right nesoeciallynsince my outer loop which I use the most runs right next to the edge, which in my layout is a six inch raised siding. 

Any tips for lining them up just right? I have problems getting them to make good contact for the locomotive and the cars derail sometimes. Maybe I just need to put it on and leave it. 

I initially thought I had bad track but when they are on they roll well. I'm still fearing the day I lose one in the middle of my tunnel. I think it would just stay there. I notice one missing from the line earlier and sure enough it was in the tunnel, though luckily not very far back in there. 

Not to complain nun hung a blast with my train set.


----------



## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

RIX makes a little plastic railing ramp which may help you out, and it says 3.95 retail ..the image is from their web site ..


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

That's exactly what I use. Works for locos, too.

But yes, it's an art. I've actually damaged the running gear of a steam loco (many, many years ago) trying to re-rail it.


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

By all means get one of the railers as pictured. They
are great for straight tracks.

Sometimes tho, while doing a hand of God uncoupling
in a yard, too much downward pressure will derail a
car. You can't easily use the railer at this point so
you have to do it the hard way. I don't know of a
trick that makes it easier; usually, one spans the
car with fingers and thumb vainly trying to get those
wayward wheels where they belong.

It is true that some trucks are more difficult to
put back on the rails than others. I have a lot
more difficulty rerailing a car with Kadee sprung
trucks, the truck flexes and fights back.

Best thing is to clear the room of the tots and
ladies with sensitive ears and have at it. 

Don


----------



## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

I find that my old fingers are not sensitive enough to feel when the truck is straight and over the track. When I need to add or rerail a car, I set it as close as I can get to being on the track, then use a flashlight to check each wheel. I can usually get the wayward wheels on the track pretty quickly while looking at them. I keep four small flashlights hanging on the four corners of my table for this purpose. The fact that I have mostly black steamers and lots of black coal cars does makes the flashlights more of a necessity.

P.S. I do change trains out a lot -- more trains than track, so I rotate them. I'm going to get one of those RIX retailers for the whole train change-out.


----------



## thedoc (Oct 15, 2015)

Area57 said:


> *Lol I think I suck at putting my trains on the track.* All of them being new, I would switch them around frequently. It's pretty difficult actually to get the wheels in there just right nesoeciallynsince my outer loop which I use the most runs right next to the edge, which in my layout is a six inch raised siding.
> 
> Any tips for lining them up just right? I have problems getting them to make good contact for the locomotive and the cars derail sometimes. Maybe I just need to put it on and leave it.
> 
> ...


Some kind of re-railer would definitely help, if there is a problem with them coming off the track, check the track so that everything is together correctly. Flat and level is also important, and get the NMRA gauge and check the wheel sets for gauge. Finally make sure the trucks not warped and are free to move. If a truck is on crocked or at an angle, it could cause the car to derail. If it's just a problem changing cars, having a designated siding with a re-railer built in could speed things up.


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Take note of thedoc's prescription! Cars don't just uncouple; something is wrong somewhere. Yeah, you may have cheap couplers or other issues with the car itself, but it may also be your track making this happen.

And seriously, if you have no way to reach a derailed car in a tunnel, cut an access hole somewhere so that you do. It's only a matter of time until one gets stuck where you can't reach.


----------



## johnfl68 (Feb 1, 2015)

There are also the straight track re-railers available for most scales and code track:










I like to put these on tracks in inconspicuous places, like inside of tunnels where they won't be seen, as added protection. This helps if any wheels are not quite in place during normal operation to help guide them back in place.


----------



## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

I have two of the 'rerailer' tracks like in the above post on each of my lines. If a car derails in transit I attempt to limp along to the piece and sometimes it fixes it. Other than that I just do the trial and error re-rail by hand. This said my kids and wife use one of the Rix railer ramps. Those work well too.


----------



## Area57 (Nov 8, 2015)

Ug, I just put kadee couplers and didn't do a great job. Those are hard to out on. Some cars accepted them well and still have the spring action and some don't really want to work. Is there a trick to them or do some trains just not accept them. For two box cars I had to stick with the knuckle couplers they came with because they wouldn't take so now I have a mix and really aren't any better off than before. Oh well, not the biggest problem. I still lose have my train from time to time.

Learning curve, I tend to throw myself into a new hobby obsession headfirst!


----------



## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

Take some time to explore KaDee's website. Go to Coupler Conversions / HO Scale Coupler Conversions. Click the manufacturer of the car that is causing you trouble. Then find the car type in that manufacturer's list. Then click on that car type. You will be sent to the instruction sheet for who to convert that particular car successfully. Some are easy. Others require some modification of the car.


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

We all have had that coupler conversion battle.

One thing very major toward doing a good job is
the Kadee coupler gauge. It not only shows the
correct height for the knuckles, but the correct
height of the car body. That is important if you
are body mounting the draft box.

I have found that the easiest Kadees to use are the #148
that uses the 'whisker' centering springs. It does
not use the brass 'spring box' so assembly is
much easier. You assemble them first then screw or
glue them onto the car.

When body mounting, you may need to use either
a shim to lower the draft box, or file away body
material to raise it. Also, Kadee does offer 2 thicknesses
of washers to be used on truck bolsters to aid
in leveling couplers.

Your coupler centering can be aided with the
use of a dry lubricant powder.

Don


----------



## dinwitty (Oct 29, 2015)

maybe just scatter some of the track rerailers around the layout, make them look like road crossings, or one in a tunnel...


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I have a slightly different opinion on KaDee couplers than most people here. As long as it's a compatible knuckle coupler, I don't replace it until it breaks. That lessens the headache of doing a bunch at once. I also find Walthers ProtoMAX couplers to be just as good, albeit with fewer options to chose from.


----------



## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

wvgca said:


> RIX makes a little plastic railing ramp which may help you out, and it says 3.95 retail ..the image is from their web site ..


If you really cant bear paying money for one it should be very simple to make one from plastic card.


----------



## DaveCo (Nov 9, 2015)

As people are mentioning, the re-railer snap track or the small plastic ramps do a pretty good job. I just purchased one last month or so, but I always forget to use it. It will get easier, I'm pretty pro at it from most angles, but when doing a lot of rolling stock in my yard I tend do use my plastic ramp.

Practice makes perfect.


----------



## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Coupler problem*



Area57 said:


> Ug, I just put kadee couplers and didn't do a great job. Those are hard to out on. Some cars accepted them well and still have the spring action and some don't really want to work. Is there a trick to them or do some trains just not accept them. For two box cars I had to stick with the knuckle couplers they came with because they wouldn't take so now I have a mix and really aren't any better off than before. Oh well, not the biggest problem. I still lose have my train from time to time.
> 
> Learning curve, I tend to throw myself into a new hobby obsession headfirst!


 Area57;
The #1 cause of "loosing half your train from time to time is a mismatch in coupler heights.
The #2 cause is the "air hose" metal piece hanging down too low, and snagging something.
Both problems can be reduced by installing couplers correctly. 
Kaydee makes a coupler/track gauge that is an essential tool for anyone using these couplers.
If you don't already have one, they are available at www.walthers.com The gauge,
and the couplers themselves, come with good directions. You might want to, "get in touch with your feminine side"
by reading all the directions. (real men don't read directions) If you have done so, please excuse my silly joke.
Body mounted couplers seem to be the norm in most HO equipment now. That's a good thing,
as body mounts push better with fewer derailments than truck mounted.
Assembling couplers is a bit tricky. It has to be done right, or problems will plague your couplers forever.
Kadee/Micro Trains, makes an extremely helpful tool called an assembly fixture in N scale, and, I'm guessing, in HO.
If you are assembling your couplers, get one of these fixtures. They make the job easier.

Regards

Traction Fan


----------



## D&J Railroad (Oct 4, 2013)

Heck, if you're dedicated to the hobby, you should be able to develop the knack of putting those things back on a ballasted code 45 rail, dual gauge turnout, in the dark, wearing mittens and standing on a skateboard.


----------



## grashley (Aug 27, 2015)

I model N gauge, but I have found some, generally longer, cars do NOT like small radius curves, period. They run fine on wider radius curves. A few cars will bind either wheels or couplers, on the car frame. Some trucks bind or jump the track.

Some cars are just too light and look for excuses to "jump", especially on curves. NMRA has specific weight guidelines for cars. This may help on some cars.

I have rerailer tracks in every main line somewhere. For the car that jumps occasionally, these usually cure the problem next time around.

Track height is critical. Run a finger over each rail at every joint. If any height difference is found, it must be fixed. Minor vertical "cracks" at the joints are usual.


----------



## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

The eyes aren't what they used to be........the hands not nearly as steady.......so I've been a fan of the RIX gizmo for a couple of years, along with a small flashlight and a little dentists "hook" tool to gently nudge the wheels and couplers into place.
Your #1 friend is PATIENCE, but a wee drab of liquid nerve settlement sometimes helps too! 
Bob


----------

