# Benchwork question



## Holshot14 (Aug 25, 2012)

Ok, I have a small dilemma on my benchwork. I have an area which sits lower to the rest. This is where my bridge/ river scene is. I'm looking for ideas how to "hinge", or put a pulley system to raise this. Now for the record, no I can't move this or raise it up to the same level as the rest. Worst case I leave it a duck under, which is not preferred. Any practical ideas?


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## Davidfd85 (Jul 4, 2011)

I was thinking you could make it a drop down section but not with a bridge going over the top that won't work.

David


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Davidfd85 said:


> I was thinking you could make it a drop down section but not with a bridge going over the top that won't work.
> 
> David


Actually, I think it could, so long as you were careful when passing in or out. 

Not sure of the scales and everything, but you could install a piano hinge where the two sections join in the middle, and then make cuts in the benchwork where two of those smaller rectangles meet, using some kind of a latch -- barrel latches on the sides, or a plate that rotates in from below -- to hold the end closed. You will need either a switch or a plug to ensure the track is not energized when the section is lowered or raised. If you intend to have significant scenery and structures on this section, lowering is probably easier. Instead of the hinge, you could just completely cut it out and use it as a lift out, with L brackets at the corners to hold it in place. A lifting pully would probably ne more trouble than it's worth.

Depending on the rigidity of the benchwork, you will probably have to add more legs, and maybe some additional bracing at the ends.


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## jesteck (Apr 15, 2014)

First, good looking benchwork, and glad to see that you've predrilled wiring access. You'll probably want to change the legs, though. Either run them diagonally from the benchtop and fasten them to the wall for support, which makes cleaning and walking around them easier, or fasten the bottoms to the floor. It's easier to patch and spackle drywall when/if you move on than to fill and refinish screw holes in hardwood. Now, to the duck-under: it looks from your picture as though this is the main access to the layout, so it is going to need a great deal of thought to make it work, and I agree a duck-under is less than desireable for daily access. You could make a lift-up or drop-down section and have it work, but might end up with a hinge in the middle of the river; what about thinking more in terms of a "gate" on casters that you could just open and close at will? It would require more structure on the benchwork and careful planning of all the angles, but it looks like you have the room. One caveat: whether lift, drop, or gate, try to avoid any wiring under the movable section. It just means more headaches.


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## Holshot14 (Aug 25, 2012)

Thanks for then help and ideas, here is some additional info:

This is for HO scale
4 main lines going across
The two lower sections and the angle sections of bench work MUST stay together
I am replicating the rockville bridge which will span the length
I will be adjusting/moving other leg work


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## Bkubiak (Oct 20, 2013)

Holshot14 said:


> Thanks for then help and ideas, here is some additional info:
> 
> This is for HO scale
> 4 main lines going across
> ...


I probably have no business making suggestions as I am here also asking for help on my little layout, but here it is anyway. Instead of making a duck under or a lift up why not just bulge out the table on either side of the door entry to around 3 feet wide and just making a track turnaround with a lake in the middle on one side and a small hill on the other, the track could go down to the entry way then turn around the lake or hill and climb an incline and go back, it could make one hell of a long main track and you could have a two foot wide entry way to just walk thru. I can see issues in a continuous track when it is lifted getting a perfect alignment of the rails each time it goes up or down. MY two cents, maybe my one cent.


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## Holshot14 (Aug 25, 2012)

Bkubiak said:


> I probably have no business making suggestions as I am here also asking for help on my little layout, but here it is anyway. Instead of making a duck under or a lift up why not just bulge out the table on either side of the door entry to around 3 feet wide and just making a track turnaround with a lake in the middle on one side and a small hill on the other, the track could go down to the entry way then turn around the lake or hill and climb an incline and go back, it could make one hell of a long main track and you could have a two foot wide entry way to just walk thru. I can see issues in a continuous track when it is lifted getting a perfect alignment of the rails each time it goes up or down. MY two cents, maybe my one cent.


Thanks for thought, will keep it in mind.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

first thing that came to mind for me was the possibility of 'rotating' your track plan to place your bridge section against one of the side walls?? a less intricate portion of the track plan can be set near the door,easier to do either a lift up or swing away section then?

the other suggestion of angled inwards legs rather than straight down would give easier access underneath

nice looking benchwork ...


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## Holshot14 (Aug 25, 2012)

wvgca said:


> first thing that came to mind for me was the possibility of 'rotating' your track plan to place your bridge section against one of the side walls?? a less intricate portion of the track plan can be set near the door,easier to do either a lift up or swing away section then?
> 
> the other suggestion of angled inwards legs rather than straight down would give easier access underneath
> 
> nice looking benchwork ...


Thanks, but the right side of the room is the intermodal yard that's in my home town, and the left side is vardo yard also close to home.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

As one with a 'duck under', I very much agree that you
should avoid it.

If my understanding of your plans is correct, that section which shows
to be lower than the remainder of the layout will include a long railroad
bridge carrying 4 tracks. 

With that assumption, and the large size of the section, it seems to
me that your best plan is to make it a 'roll in and out' section with
some sort of 'latching' devices when in place. It seems far too
large for either lift or drop down.

You will want to have jacks and plugs to carry your various track
currents and a 'shut off' device that will kill the current in each
track and on both sides of the bridge so that you don't have
any of your locos making the big leap to the floor. Such device
might simply be the jacks and plugs, by the way.

Much admiration for the fine craftsmanship seen in your benchwork.

Don


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## Holshot14 (Aug 25, 2012)

DonR said:


> As one with a 'duck under', I very much agree that you
> should avoid it.
> 
> If my understanding of your plans is correct, that section which shows
> ...


Thanks for the comments, and yes you are correct, except it will be 2 bridges and one has 3 lines and one has one line. Of all the suggestions this seems most doable and least problem incurring.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I love the Rockville bridge (I spent many hours looking at it while sitting in traffic travelling to State College on football weekends, and have crossed it on Amtrak several times). You'll have to post a picture of it when you're done. While you could still have a joint in the center of that section, this needlessly complicates things. 

I think I would do what Don suggested: mount that whole section on casters so you can roll it in and out. Your joints would then be more or less on the abutments of the bridge.


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## Holshot14 (Aug 25, 2012)

CTValleyRR said:


> I love the Rockville bridge (I spent many hours looking at it while sitting in traffic travelling to State College on football weekends, and have crossed it on Amtrak several times). You'll have to post a picture of it when you're done. While you could still have a joint in the center of that section, this needlessly complicates things.
> 
> I think I would do what Don suggested: mount that whole section on casters so you can roll it in and out. Your joints would then be more or less on the abutments of the bridge.


Yes, I am excited to model this bridge and have done a lot of research on it, as well as read the book, 90 days to rockville. This will be the focal point of the layout and will hit you in the face when you walk in the door.


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## Holshot14 (Aug 25, 2012)

CTValleyRR said:


> I love the Rockville bridge (I spent many hours looking at it while sitting in traffic travelling to State College on football weekends, and have crossed it on Amtrak several times). You'll have to post a picture of it when you're done. While you could still have a joint in the center of that section, this needlessly complicates things.
> 
> I think I would do what Don suggested: mount that whole section on casters so you can roll it in and out. Your joints would then be more or less on the abutments of the bridge.


Yes, I am excited to model this bridge and have done a lot of research on it, as well as read the book, 90 days to rockville. This will be the focal point of the layout and will hit you in the face when you walk in the door.


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## Patrick1544 (Apr 27, 2013)

That's nice benchwork. Did you make it yourself or is it Sievers? I'm getting ready to start mine soon.


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## Holshot14 (Aug 25, 2012)

Patrick1544 said:


> That's nice benchwork. Did you make it yourself or is it Sievers? I'm getting ready to start mine soon.


It's both, I had about 6 sections donated to me and I built the rest.


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## Patrick1544 (Apr 27, 2013)

Thanks very much. it looks very sturdy.


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