# Advice for new N Scale Starter Set



## Phillies (Aug 3, 2018)

I got 2 Bachmann N Scale starter sets for Christmas. First time I ever dealt with that scale. I combined the 2 sets to create a larger track in my kitchen but I realized that running the engines from both sets at the same time won't be feasible. I thought of maybe getting a switcher track and creating a track inside my track loop where I could park the train I am not currently using. Could I do that and not get power running into that track so the other engine wouldn't move ? It also seems that the only Bachmann switcher tracks are some kind of digital tracks with wires and power pack ? I didn't want to clutter up the kitchen with more wires... any thoughts?

Thanks


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Phillies said:


> I got 2 Bachmann N Scale starter sets for Christmas. First time I ever dealt with that scale. I combined the 2 sets to create a larger track in my kitchen but I realized that running the engines from both sets at the same time won't be feasible. I thought of maybe getting a switcher track and creating a track inside my track loop where I could park the train I am not currently using. Could I do that and not get power running into that track so the other engine wouldn't move ? It also seems that the only Bachmann switcher tracks are some kind of digital tracks with wires and power pack ? I didn't want to clutter up the kitchen with more wires... any thoughts?
> 
> Thanks


A lot of thoughts -- not the least of which is that a kitchen is a terrible place for a model train, with all the grease and grime that gets generated. The sooner you get your trains out of there, the happier they will be.

The "switcher tracks" -- we call them turnouts to distinguish them from "switchers", which are small locomotives, and "switches", which term model railroaders reserve for things that route electricity, even though full sized railroads do indeed use that term for the thing that route trains -- anyway, those tracks have wires so that you can operate them either with the little levers on the turnouts themselves, or remotely through a push-button.

There is no way to create a "dead" siding like you envision without either 1) a power-routing turnout, which yours most likely are not, or 2) more wires.

For case (1) some turnouts send power to BOTH diverging legs simultaneously; some just to the one that the points (the movable rails) are facing. Test tyour turnouts and see if they work this way (Bachmann EZ track ones don't as far as I know, but I've been wrong before).

Case (2), you will have to insulate the rails manually, and then provide a jumper wire through a simple SPST electrical switch, so that you can cut off the power. And you would need a separate parking track for each loco.

There is a better solution, though -- Digital Command Control (DCC), which allows you (after some easy modifications) to control each locomotive independently, without additional wiring. You might want to look, because many starter sets include a basic DCC controller right out of the box. If you don't already have it, Bachmann's EZ Command (which would be the one included in your sets) or MRC's Prodigy Explorer are simple, inexpensive sets that would get you up and running (you would also have to install a plug-in microchip in each locomotive).

Good Luck!


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## Phillies (Aug 3, 2018)

Thanks. The state set doesn't stipulate DC or DCC, but by saying nothing and going by the fact that the power pack is just a dial and a forward/reverse switch I will assume it's DC ? If I got a DCC power pack would that fix my problem ? Or are the 2 engines from the starter Kits probably not DCC ready ?


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Just replacing your DC power pack with a DCC digital
control system would not solve your problem unless
you also installed decoders in your locos. Many newer
locos are DCC 'ready'. That means they are DC locos
that you can plug in the DCC decoder. The manual
that came with the sets you bought should tell you
if the locos are DCC READY. If they are you would
simply buy decoders that plug in. Your locos would
then be DCC and you could replace the power packs
with a DCC digital control system. Best know brands
are Bachmann, Digitrax, NCE or MRC.

Don


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## Gramps (Feb 28, 2016)

If the sets came with EZ track, try going on Bachmann's website for their "Ask the Bachmann" to get a definite answer if their turnouts are power routed. If so, problem solved, if not you will have to follow the above advice. Good luck.


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## Phillies (Aug 3, 2018)

Thanks. I'll take a look at the manual later. And as far as having the set in my kitchen, I was short on space but I do have a decent size kitchen. It's not in an area that will get any grease or food stuffs on the track or engines


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## Phillies (Aug 3, 2018)

It also appears that the power pack that came with the set is a little too basic. Doesn't have a place for me to wire in a switch track. Might have to pick up a new one. Perhaps the Bachmann DCC controller...


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## ftauss (Sep 18, 2012)

I have EZ track. The original turnouts that match the 9.75" radius are power routing. I have some of the newer #4 and #6 turnouts. They are much better quality wise than the originals and I believe they are also power routing IIRC. It is IMO one of the better points of EZ track. Do not use the curved rerailers/terminal pieces. For me they were more like derailers, I think they are to shallow. The straight ones work much better.

Frank
So many gauges, so little time and space.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

It's not clear exactly what Bachmann train sets you have.

On the box each came in is a trainset model number
or other identifications. Give us all of these and we'll
be better able to offer answers to your questions.

Don


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## Phillies (Aug 3, 2018)

Here's a pic of the starter set I got
I also got a 2nd set that is the same but with different trains included.


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## ftauss (Sep 18, 2012)

Sorry looks like I double posted


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## ftauss (Sep 18, 2012)

The model number of the set shouldn't matter. They will both be simple ovals based on the 9.75 inch curves with 2 or 4 straights. Some time ago they started making progressively larger radius up to I think 19 inches. Each size up is about 11, 13, 15, 17, 19 inches. I bought a full circle of each to see how good it was. Not bad at all.

My mistake it's 11 inch curved in the sets with 11 inch rerailer terminals. And they go up in 1.5 inch increments. But the curved rerailers sucked for me.


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## PoppetFlatsRR (Jul 29, 2018)

I have the same set, it was my first, but it was not DCC. I had it modified to DCC, but no sound. I still run it on my Durango to Silverton area. I have actually ridden the real train and it is just as fantastic as the picturs show.

If you are going to continue with this type of track, I would consider changing over to Kato, better quality and more options I think. There turnouts are capable of routing or not on #4 and 6.


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## Phillies (Aug 3, 2018)

Well, I got a Bachmann switch track today on Amazon same day delivery. I decided, steady for now to create an inside track to "park" the other train and cars. The track would be separated from the switch track discreetly. My plan was going to work until I found out that my steam engine derails on the switch everytime. But the other train, a diesel does not. Here's a pic of the switch and the loco... not sure what the issue might be...


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## Vincent (Jan 28, 2018)

Bizarre question here, Phillies. In your Durango and Silverton set, is there anything that tells you what date it was manufactured?


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## Phillies (Aug 3, 2018)

Vincent said:


> Bizarre question here, Phillies. In your Durango and Silverton set, is there anything that tells you what date it was manufactured?


I did not see a date on the box. It was a Christmas present purchased from model train stuff.com so I would imagine it is current production?


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## Phillies (Aug 3, 2018)

Any thoughts on this ? Could the issue be with the loco or maybe a defected switch?


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## rrjim1 (Mar 12, 2015)

If your other loco goes threw OK, then I would look at the wheel gauge of your steam loco. Your going to need a NMRA gauge to check them.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

If the loco doesn't have problems with other turnouts, it's most likely the new turnout, not the loco.

You will need to get a standard gauge, and then check all the measurements of that turnout.


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## Vincent (Jan 28, 2018)

Phillies said:


> I did not see a date on the box. It was a Christmas present purchased from model train stuff.com so I would imagine it is current production?


Thank you, Phillies I am planning to buy that set within a couple of weeks at a store here in Mexico They one time sold me a brand-new, unopened, still in the box set that was 15 years old.


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## Phillies (Aug 3, 2018)

Just a quick update. I was playing around with the train set a little more. The Durango and Silverton steam engine that was the issue will ride over the switch if it is on a faster speed. However, is I have it go slower, it will stop at the same point everytime while going over the switch. I give it a gentle nudge and it's off on it's way. I don't have any other switch to try it out on...


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## Vincent (Jan 28, 2018)

Phillies said:


> Just a quick update. I was playing around with the train set a little more. The Durango and Silverton steam engine that was the issue will ride over the switch if it is on a faster speed. However, is I have it go slower, it will stop at the same point everytime while going over the switch. I give it a gentle nudge and it's off on it's way. I don't have any other switch to try it out on...


Phillies, you MIGHT have a bent pin. Try disconnecting the switch and clean it so thoroughly that you cannot see any dirt at all on the cleaning cloth (I use rubbing alcohol.) Then carefully re-install the switch to make sure that the pins are straight.


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## Phillies (Aug 3, 2018)

I was playing around with the trains a little more. The engine that does work on that switch, if I run it really slow it also stops half way across. So it must be an issue with the switch. It only cost me $17 on Amazon, but maybe I should try ordering a new one and see if that works better ? Here's a pic of the switch if that helps any


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## Phillies (Aug 3, 2018)

Vincent said:


> Phillies said:
> 
> 
> > Just a quick update. I was playing around with the train set a little more. The Durango and Silverton steam engine that was the issue will ride over the switch if it is on a faster speed. However, is I have it go slower, it will stop at the same point everytime while going over the switch. I give it a gentle nudge and it's off on it's way. I don't have any other switch to try it out on...
> ...


Thanks. Sorry for the silly questions but what is this pin that I should be looking for in the switch ?


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

What I see seems to be a metal frog and likely
it is intended to be powered, perhaps by the points
but it could have terminals for relay to flip polarity.

What make is the turnout? Did you get any
instructions with it?

Don


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## Vincent (Jan 28, 2018)

Phillies, I am referring to the six pins that connect the switch to other tracks


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## Phillies (Aug 3, 2018)

It's a Bachmann switch. I know it's not the best but I figured it would be easier since the starter set is Bachmann


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

What you have is a Bachmann EZ # 5 turnout.

This is the HO version, I understand you are using
N, however the metal frog in this attachment is
identical to that in your picture.

https://shop.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2503

You'll note in the list of features that the frog is
powered via wires. Apparently you have not connected
these. Do you have the instructions that came with it?


Don


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## Phillies (Aug 3, 2018)

DonR said:


> What you have is a Bachmann EZ # 5 turnout.
> 
> This is the HO version, I understand you are using
> N, however the metal frog in this attachment is
> ...



The power pack that came with the starter sets has seems to have no ability to connect a switch track wire to it. Could having it not plugged in be an issue ? There should be instructions, I'll take a look.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

It's probably in the form of a small jumper underneath the turnout.


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## Phillies (Aug 3, 2018)

I found the instructions on the back of the packaging. But it just left me confused as I wasn't really sure what it was talking about...


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## ftauss (Sep 18, 2012)

Phillies said:


> I was playing around with the trains a little more. The engine that does work on that switch, if I run it really slow it also stops half way across. So it must be an issue with the switch. It only cost me $17 on Amazon, but maybe I should try ordering a new one and see if that works better ? Here's a pic of the switch if that helps any


That is a model 44862 turnout. These are the original ones and a bit of a nightmare. It's been a while but I believe they draw their power from the track. The mechanism.inside is a little sloppy. IIRC my steamers gave me grief but the diesels were ok. You have to open it and look at the mechanism. Play with it, see how the points to in relation to how the switch is set. What I found is sometimes they are not assembled correctly and points don't close flush against the rail. It might look like but their isn't enough pressure to hold them in place.

I have several and after playing with them for awhile I got them.to behave. Apparently design and manufacturer hasn't improved much. The newer #4 and #6 turnouts were reliable from the first time I used them. I would only use the original turnouts in a hard where only cars and diesel switchers went through them and the 4s and 6s everywhere else.


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## Phillies (Aug 3, 2018)

Thanks for the info. For right now, I just took out the switch. I have my 2nd train and cars on a piece of track that is not connected to the set but without close inspection one would not notice.


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