# Cleaning Bankers Set passenger cars



## hcopter51 (Aug 29, 2018)

Hi all, just got the cars to make up my New Haven Bankers set...How can I clean/polish them as there are some “dark” areas on them? Also, what can I use on the light diffusers with the people on them? Thanks for the help 👍

John


----------



## Sagas (Dec 13, 2013)

John, can you post a picture as an example of the "dark" areas to try to determine what they might be and how best to deal with them? If the paper diffuser has yellowed with age or dirty replace with a good quality legal size paper or you can order replacements from Port Line. The silhouette strips can be cleaned from the inside lightly using a moistened cotton face cloth and dried with a microfiber or cotton towel. If the strips will come out easily, all the better to get the facing side as well. Do one car at a time so as not to mix up the strips as they are usually dedicated to that specific car.

Others here will have more suggestions and I have just given you what works for me. That set is a nice one. J.B


----------



## hcopter51 (Aug 29, 2018)

Thanks JB, how do you get the cars apart? John
Ps: I will try to post a picture


----------



## shaker281 (Jun 22, 2019)

hcopter51 said:


> Thanks JB, how do you get the cars apart? John
> Ps: I will try to post a picture


That is something I am wondering too. If they are like some of my older cars, all that is visible are brass looking "dots" at each corner. No visible screw heads or tabs. 

I am learning that my first choice is always foamy dish soap from a used hand soap foamer and a soft paint brush (Meguiar's detailing brush) and a microfiber towel. I work my way up to rubbing alcohol and Q-tips next and where applicable. I used canned compressed air to displace traces of moisture.


----------



## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

If the cars are plastic, there should be 4 brass push pins on the bottom of the car in each corner of the chassis.Use a fine bladed screwdriver to lift them out. Don't use the sides of the car as a lever, you could very well chip the plastic. If the pins are stuck and won't come out, use the tip of a soldering iron to heat them up so they can be removed. I've used this method many times without any damage. Use warm water on the silhouettes, anything else or stronger could damage them.As for the diffuser paper, I use a product made by "Pro Art," and it's called newsprint. It mimics the original paper to a tee, comes in 9"x 12", fits the car perfectly, and you get a large pad of it,(50) sheets, for $2.29.. You'll probably pay 50 cents a sheet or more for it from a supplier such as PortLines, plus shipping. Not bad-mouthing Doug Peck, just putting that out there.


----------



## hcopter51 (Aug 29, 2018)

shaker281 said:


> That is something I am wondering too. If they are like some of my older cars, all that is visible are brass looking "dots" at each corner. No visible screw heads or tabs.
> 
> I am learning that my first choice is always foamy dish soap from a used hand soap foamer and a soft paint brush (Meguiar's detailing brush) and a microfiber towel. I work my way up to rubbing alcohol and Q-tips next and where applicable. I used canned compressed air to displace traces of moisture.


Thanks shaker, this sounds like a good method...I will try it.....:thumbsup:


----------



## hcopter51 (Aug 29, 2018)

flyernut said:


> If the cars are plastic, there should be 4 brass push pins on the bottom of the car in each corner of the chassis.Use a fine bladed screwdriver to lift them out. Don't use the sides of the car as a lever, you could very well chip the plastic. If the pins are stuck and won't come out, use the tip of a soldering iron to heat them up so they can be removed. I've used this method many times without any damage. Use warm water on the silhouettes, anything else or stronger could damage them.As for the diffuser paper, I use a product made by "Pro Art," and it's called newsprint. It mimics the original paper to a tee, comes in 9"x 12", fits the car perfectly, and you get a large pad of it,(50) sheets, for $2.29.. You'll probably pay 50 cents a sheet or more for it from a supplier such as PortLines, plus shipping. Not bad-mouthing Doug Peck, just putting that out there.


Thanks flyernut, if I have any trouble at all removing those pins(yes, the cars are plastic) I will just leave it alone...I am very dangerous with a soldering iron  The silhouettes are only a little dirty so I may just use a q tip with warm water....Thanks for the "Pro Art" tip also....:thumbsup:


----------



## hcopter51 (Aug 29, 2018)

Here is what I am talking about.....Would like to get these looking better....All three are pretty much the same, Thanks


----------



## hcopter51 (Aug 29, 2018)

Sagas said:


> John, can you post a picture as an example of the "dark" areas to try to determine what they might be and how best to deal with them? If the paper diffuser has yellowed with age or dirty replace with a good quality legal size paper or you can order replacements from Port Line. The silhouette strips can be cleaned from the inside lightly using a moistened cotton face cloth and dried with a microfiber or cotton towel. If the strips will come out easily, all the better to get the facing side as well. Do one car at a time so as not to mix up the strips as they are usually dedicated to that specific car.
> 
> Others here will have more suggestions and I have just given you what works for me. That set is a nice one. J.B


JB, I have posted the pictures as you suggested....
Thanks, John:thumbsup:


----------



## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Those passenger cars have six screws, all visible, that hold the body to the chassis. The easy part is getting the screws out, the hard part is then getting the body off the chassis. In theory the chassis will slide out the end of the body if the body side skirts are carefully spread apart. It is also possible to slightly spread the body sides so the chassis comes out of the body guide slots. In any event it is possible to crack the side skirts getting the body off. Good luck!
From the pictures the dark areas look like failure of the silver paint, not something that can be removed.


----------



## hcopter51 (Aug 29, 2018)

AmFlyer said:


> Those passenger cars have six screws, all visible, that hold the body to the chassis. The easy part is getting the screws out, the hard part is then getting the body off the chassis. In theory the chassis will slide out the end of the body if the body side skirts are carefully spread apart. It is also possible to slightly spread the body sides so the chassis comes out of the body guide slots. In any event it is possible to crack the side skirts getting the body off. Good luck!
> From the pictures the dark areas look like failure of the silver paint, not something that can be removed.


Thanks AF, I will not try to remove the chassis as I know I would crack something....Is there any touch up paint or something I can use on the dark areas? 

John


----------



## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

I have never tried to match that paint. Maybe someone here knows the closest match available.


----------



## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

My old age is showing,lol..Those brass push pins were used on 600 series plastic cars such as for the Silver Streak, etc...The 6 screw version is for 900 series plastic cars, and removing those 6 screws will enable you to simply lift the chassis off the shell, no spreading apart at the skirts is necessary, and you don't have to slide the chassis off through the skirts.. I think I have it right this time,lol.


----------



## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

I must have the same problem. I just looked at one of my 900 series cars and the chassis will drop out after the 6 screws are removed. I was thinking of the 600 series aluminum cars.


----------



## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

AmFlyer said:


> I must have the same problem. I just looked at one of my 900 series cars and the chassis will drop out after the 6 screws are removed. I was thinking of the 600 series aluminum cars.


Lol, I did the same thing when I read your post. I got off my butt and checked a few 650 and 655 cars, and sure enough, there were the brass push pins. Then I checked a few 900 plastic cars and saw the 6 screws.. I already knew about those aluminum cars as I have a ton of them, and they can be a bear!. Ain't getting old fun???:laugh:


----------



## hcopter51 (Aug 29, 2018)

flyernut said:


> Lol, I did the same thing when I read your post. I got off my butt and checked a few 650 and 655 cars, and sure enough, there were the brass push pins. Then I checked a few 900 plastic cars and saw the 6 screws.. I already knew about those aluminum cars as I have a ton of them, and they can be a bear!. Ain't getting old fun???:laugh:


Well, I did not even look to see whats there cause of what you guys said....Time for me to get off my butt too.....I will now, LOL....Thanks:appl:


----------



## hcopter51 (Aug 29, 2018)

My cars have the pins! Evidently you slide the bottom towards the rear of the car and then separate the skirts to remove it....I am not going to try that however, oh well 😔


----------



## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

You do have later 5 digit cars rather than the 3 digit versions. I do not recall having any of the 5 digit NH cars, mine are all 3 digit that came in 5 digit OB's. Perhaps Gilbert made a running change in 1958 or 1959.


----------



## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Since you said this is a NH Bankers set, 1959, I am assuming the band is orange. In the picture it has a red look to it. The only reported late production passenger cars with metal push pins in place of screws were 1960 red band cars. The orange band cars do appear to have been made in 1960, 1961 & 1962 but they are not listed in any cataloged or uncataloged sets made in 1960 or later. If Gilbert did convert back to push pins in 1960 your set may be a post 1959 Bankers set.


----------



## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

AmFlyer said:


> Since you said this is a NH Bankers set, 1959, I am assuming the band is orange. In the picture it has a red look to it. The only reported late production passenger cars with metal push pins in place of screws were 1960 red band cars. The orange band cars do appear to have been made in 1960, 1961 & 1962 but they are not listed in any cataloged or uncataloged sets made in 1960 or later. If Gilbert did convert back to push pins in 1960 your set may be a post 1959 Bankers set.


I may be able to fix these things once in awhile, but you have a superb knowledge of this stuff..My congrats!!:smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Your repair skills and experience are far more useful!


----------



## hcopter51 (Aug 29, 2018)

AmFlyer said:


> Since you said this is a NH Bankers set, 1959, I am assuming the band is orange. In the picture it has a red look to it. The only reported late production passenger cars with metal push pins in place of screws were 1960 red band cars. The orange band cars do appear to have been made in 1960, 1961 & 1962 but they are not listed in any cataloged or uncataloged sets made in 1960 or later. If Gilbert did convert back to push pins in 1960 your set may be a post 1959 Bankers set.


Yes, they are the 24776,24816, and 24836 Orange stripe cars....I guess I will just try to clean them up as much as I can....Thanks to all for your input :appl:

John


----------



## AFGP9 (Apr 8, 2015)

*hcopter51*

If you plan on keeping those passenger cars I have used a method of painting those cars. Somewhere I read that Michel's had silver metallic 2 oz. bottles of brush on paint that was a good match for the chrome roofs on the 660 series of chrome cars. I had a set like yours as well. This paint is Folk Art #662 Silver Sterling later replaced by #2964. It matches the roofs of the 660 series of chrome cars perfectly. Keep in mind this paint is a silver metallic paint and not supposed to be chrome even though I have used it on the skirts of the 660 cars without an appearance problem. 
Since the roofs of these are not smooth, the paint flows very well and looks good when dried. As for the sides. since your cars were silver from the factory, and the sides are like the roof, not smooth, (at least mine weren't), this paint looks good there too. You must use a good medium width, semi-stiff artist paint brush, (sable), to get a good finish. This paint must be stirred well before applying because of the metallic base. I found that it must be applied in long continuous strokes for the best results. 
All this being said, this method is for the "looks good to me on my railroad" crowd. One last comment. Because you are using a good quality brush and this paint is a thin base, no brush strokes will show using the long continuous strokes method. I should add that I am also an artist painter and I had a badly peeling chrome 660 on which to practice on the roof and get the strokes right.


----------



## hcopter51 (Aug 29, 2018)

AFGP9 said:


> If you plan on keeping those passenger cars I have used a method of painting those cars. Somewhere I read that Michel's had silver metallic 2 oz. bottles of brush on paint that was a good match for the chrome roofs on the 660 series of chrome cars. I had a set like yours as well. This paint is Folk Art #662 Silver Sterling later replaced by #2964. It matches the roofs of the 660 series of chrome cars perfectly. Keep in mind this paint is a silver metallic paint and not supposed to be chrome even though I have used it on the skirts of the 660 cars without an appearance problem.
> Since the roofs of these are not smooth, the paint flows very well and looks good when dried. As for the sides. since your cars were silver from the factory, and the sides are like the roof, not smooth, (at least mine weren't), this paint looks good there too. You must use a good medium width, semi-stiff artist paint brush, (sable), to get a good finish. This paint must be stirred well before applying because of the metallic base. I found that it must be applied in long continuous strokes for the best results.
> All this being said, this method is for the "looks good to me on my railroad" crowd. One last comment. Because you are using a good quality brush and this paint is a thin base, no brush strokes will show using the long continuous strokes method. I should add that I am also an artist painter and I had a badly peeling chrome 660 on which to practice on the roof and get the strokes right.


Thanks AFGP9, do you know if Hobby Lobby carries this paint or who does? I will try this method and I truly appreciate the advice....Glad there is a way to improve the looks of these cars....The roof and sides of these cars are NOT smooth, they have ridges....Thanks again...:thumbsup:
John


----------



## AFGP9 (Apr 8, 2015)

*hcopter51*

First of all I apologize for not looking at your photos more closely and noticing the sides of your cars better. Those will paint nicely because of the fluted or ribbed sides and the roof. Those are exactly like the ones I had. As for whether or not that Folk Art paint line is available at Hobby Lobby, I do not know. Once I found the paint at Michel's I looked no further. Painted as I explained, you won't be disappointed.


----------



## hcopter51 (Aug 29, 2018)

AFGP9 said:


> First of all I apologize for not looking at your photos more closely and noticing the sides of your cars better. Those will paint nicely because of the fluted or ribbed sides and the roof. Those are exactly like the ones I had. As for whether or not that Folk Art paint line is available at Hobby Lobby, I do not know. Once I found the paint at Michel's I looked no further. Painted as I explained, you won't be disappointed.


Thanks again, I saw you said Michel's so my fault....I may just look on line and order there....Can't wait to see the end result....Take Care,

John


----------



## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

AmFlyer said:


> Since you said this is a NH Bankers set, 1959, I am assuming the band is orange. In the picture it has a red look to it. The only reported late production passenger cars with metal push pins in place of screws were 1960 red band cars. The orange band cars do appear to have been made in 1960, 1961 & 1962 but they are not listed in any cataloged or uncataloged sets made in 1960 or later. If Gilbert did convert back to push pins in 1960 your set may be a post 1959 Bankers set.


Tom, here's some more confusion to ponder. Dad bought my Bankers set new in 1959 and it came with 3 digit orange cars with metal name plates. When I started collecting years later , only then did I realize that it should have 5 digit cars. Probably Gilbert using up existing stock of cars. I've looked over the years at other Bankers set at shows and on ebay but haven't come across any others with 3 digit cars, only 5 digit cars, although some others may have come like mine. I bought a nice 24816 orange vista dome to add to my original set but had it packed away. I went and dug it out and it has steel pins (7) in total securing the body to the frame. To be honest, I never looked at it before to see how it was secured to the frame. Interesting that Greenberg lists red stripe cars with screws or pins but no others. I don't own any other 5 digit stream liners so don't know how they were assembled.


----------



## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

Here's a couple of pics. of my original set.














Here's the 24816


----------



## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

I have a 1957 New Clipper NH passenger set. The orange stripe cars are 3 digit in 5 digit boxes. This was common in 1957.
I think most collectors did not pay close attention to screws vs steel pins holding on the floors of the 5 digit passenger cars. There may be a lot more with the pins than were documented.
It is possible there were still leftover 3 digit orange stripe cars in 1959 since there were no cataloged sets using them in 1958. The only way to know for certain is if you have the set box and all the individual boxes along with some provenance on the set. I believe you have the latter since it is your original set. Did your dad buy it in a sealed SB?
It was common for dealers/stores to hand assemble the cataloged sets from their store inventory for customers.
There were also sets sold though department stores that have never been documented in the literature. I know since I have one. My 322AC set was bought by my dad at Kaufmann's in Pittsburgh December of 1950. It is in a 4611A set box. That set was only made through 1949. My set is a 1950 production, the 322AC is a late 1950, Oct50 date stamp plus the thick stanchions which make it 1950 or later. The set has a 632 substituted for the 629 and a 577 billboard without its OB packed in the set box. I have all the boxes plus all the paper and tags.


----------



## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

The box is long gone, it was the later flat box with the cardboard insert that held the engine and cars along with track and transformer. It appeared on Christmas morning as far as I remember. The trains were already on the layout that only was set up for the few weeks around Christmas. They were stored in the attic and its possible he tossed the flat square box do to the fact that the attic had pull down stairs that might have been difficult for him to carry up because they were narrow and the box was wide. I really don't know, just glad they weren't given away to the neighbors kids like most of our toys as my brother and I got older.


----------



## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

I forgot that set came with the cars positioned in the cutouts of the cardboard insert. Since you were the original purchaser the 3 digit cars came with the set. Dealers did not usually alter the contents of those sets. Fantastic you still have the set.


----------



## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

I feel lucky in that all 3 of the original sets my Dad bought between 1955 and 1959 I still have. The McGinnis paint scheme was the reason Dad bought it. I always thought it reminded me of Halloween, but he loved it. I was partial to my 5510T set with the 283 with 3 freight cars and a caboose. The other was the Flying Freighter (20305) from 1957.


----------



## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

cramden said:


> I feel lucky in that all 3 of the original sets my Dad bought between 1955 and 1959 I still have. The McGinnis paint scheme was the reason Dad bought it. I always thought it reminded me of Halloween, but he loved it. I was partial to my 5510T set with the 283 with 3 freight cars and a caboose. The other was the Flying Freighter (20305) from 1957.


Dad also bought me the Flying Freighter set in '57..Long gone but I have 3 of the sets now.


----------

