# Union Pacific Diesel GP-7



## C100 (Nov 19, 2012)

It's been a long time since I have had my American Flyers up and running. On my Union Pacific 372, are the drive wheels the front or rear?? I was initially told the narrow part of the locomotive is the front, which would place the drive wheels to the rear. However, the plastic horns would be heading to the rear. It runs the best and tracks the best with the drive wheels in the rear position while pulling cars. If someone could shed some light on this, it would be appreciated.
Happy Holidays from Massachusetts


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Welcome.The short part or nose of the loco, is the front, and the drive wheels are below that.


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## C100 (Nov 19, 2012)

*Gp 7*

Thank you for the reply. I was hoping it was the other way around. It does not like pulling heavy cars around curves and staying on the track when I run it the way you have said. I will try cleaning the wheels and track.

Thanks again. Happy Holidays


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

C100 said:


> Thank you for the reply. I was hoping it was the other way around. It does not like pulling heavy cars around curves and staying on the track when I run it the way you have said. I will try cleaning the wheels and track.
> 
> Thanks again. Happy Holidays


What probably is happening is the wieght of the cars is causing the engine to de-rail in the corners. Check to see the wheels are turning free on your cars. Just a drop of oil will be plenty. I'll bet it's the back trucks of the loco that are de-railing. That tells me you have too many cars, too heavy a car, binding wheels on your cars,etc. Can you reverse the engine chassis on the body?? What type of cars are you running?


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## C100 (Nov 19, 2012)

*Gp-7*

Hi Flyernut,
I think it's just too many cars, too much weight. I had the following on the track: 928 Flat Car, 931 Gondola, 934 Floodlight Car, 936 Spool Car, Katy 937, 945 Work Caboose. If I run the loco with the drive wheels in the back, it stays on the track. After the Holidays, I need to set up a table, secure the track and go from there. I am getting back into this after a longtime. 

Thanks again.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

C100 said:


> Hi Flyernut,
> I think it's just too many cars, too much weight. I had the following on the track: 928 Flat Car, 931 Gondola, 934 Floodlight Car, 936 Spool Car, Katy 937, 945 Work Caboose. If I run the loco with the drive wheels in the back, it stays on the track. After the Holidays, I need to set up a table, secure the track and go from there. I am getting back into this after a longtime.
> 
> Thanks again.


The 934 and the 936 are HEAVY!! Plus, I don't think your diesel is cut out to pull that much of a load.


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## ChopperCharles (Jan 3, 2012)

Get another one and double-head them, one forward and one reverse. Works great, but you need one hell of a transformer.

Also unless you're pulling up a grade, it shouldn't derail like that. Lightly oil all of the trucks. You should be able to roll your cars by hand, let go, and they should continue rolling at least 6 feet down a level straightaway. If not, the cars need service.

Charles


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## C100 (Nov 19, 2012)

*Union Pacific GP-7*

There is a local train shop near me. I will pick up some lubricant specific for the cars and locomotive.

Thank you for the suggestions and replies.


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## ChopperCharles (Jan 3, 2012)

I just use motor oil on a Q-tip to lube the axles. Have a rag with some mineral spirits handy to wipe off any you get on the wheels.

Charles.


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

Another choice to apply oil is a "pin oiler" a small squeeze bottle with a needle type tip. Much easier to control and can get into some very tight spots. I use only 5w-20/30 motor oil and everything works smooth as glass. Some of the lubricants you find at hobby shops will gum up over times. Do not use sewing machine oil or 3-n-1 oil same problems. Motor oil stays fluid for decades.

Carl


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## C100 (Nov 19, 2012)

*Lubricant for GP-7 and Cars*

I bought some synthetic oil with the needle oiler that is suppose to be specific for these trains, today. If you do not recommend it, I will use the automotive oil. I use the 5W20 in my cars anyway and I have plenty. I thought the synthetic would be the best route especially with the needle oiler it came with.


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## markjs (Dec 11, 2010)

Regarding your locomotive functioning better when it is in reverse: Somewhere, long ago, I read a recommendation suggesting running AF A-A powered & dummy sets with the dummy in front, and the powered unit behind it running in reverse, pushing the dummy and pulling the cars. The "physics" of the set-up escapes my memory, but there may be something to your observation.
Mark


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

C100 said:


> I bought some synthetic oil with the needle oiler that is suppose to be specific for these trains, today. If you do not recommend it, I will use the automotive oil. I use the 5W20 in my cars anyway and I have plenty. I thought the synthetic would be the best route especially with the needle oiler it came with.


I can't speak for how it will hold up during storage, motor oil I can. I do know for a fact oils like 3-n-1 and sewing machine oil will gum up over time first hand. Used to be all I used on my Lionels, after 30+ years of storage I had work to do. Also, word of caution synthetic oils can attack paints, so be careful there. You could always use it an refill the bottle with motor oil later, just be sparing only 1-2 drops per spot.

Carl


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## C100 (Nov 19, 2012)

*Union Pacific GP-7*

I am going to check everything over and try the locomotive again, with cars that are not so heavy. I will try the synthetic oil on some less expensive cars and see how it works, before I try it anywhere else. I have not seen a dummy engine for my 372. The dummy engine in front with the 372 in reverse could be a great suggestion. The place where I bought the oil had a 372 like the one I have, and was shocked by what he wanted for it.
I appreciate the group's expertise and advice.

Getting ready for snow in Massachusetts


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