# Model Power Amtrak Bullet Train...



## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

Got this a couple weeks back in a trade with one of the forum members with the idea of modifying it with close coupling and Favely pantographs. The idea of Amtrak trying out a Bullet Train over here is not far fetched at all as they tried several different foreign locomotives and trains in the early daze of service. The weak point on this model is the awful gap between cars...










...it measures out at 8 scale feet. Three feet is more prototypical but, with 20" radius curves, would I be able to do it? Fortunately, it was quite easy, the truck casting literally having the cut line cast into it. By mounting a stand Kadee #5 box to a small brass strip, I got 3' of coupling space AND found it can easily traverse my 20" curves AND not hit freight cars on the adjoining track...Note that I found that a Rivarossi Hudson tender wheelset is a drop in fit. Being metal, it's a much better setup for the train...I only need 5 more...sigh...










Here is is, installed and setting on a 20" curve...










...a side-by-side comparison of the old and new gaps...










...the finished train...


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## THE TYCO MAN (Aug 23, 2011)

Nice job there Bob!


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## RUSTY Cuda (Aug 28, 2012)

Nice work.:thumbsup:
Reminds me a little of the old streamliner my dad had before he switched to HO. If I remember correctly it had rounded sections between each car. I have to do a search see if I can find something similar. I think it was one of the oldest pieces in that collection. either O or 027 guage (3 rail track) 
Remember I was no more than 10 or 11 when he made the switch!  Rich.

Edit, I found it it was the Flying Yankee! thanks for the memories!


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## jjb727 (Apr 13, 2012)

I like the bullet train look!


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## Mr.Buchholz (Dec 30, 2011)

That bullet train looks amazing! 

-J.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The difference is amazing Shay, it looks great with the close spacing of cars!


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## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

Thanks guys...just have to find some pantographs now, install some horns and touch up the paint...:thumbsup:


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## Grabbem88 (Feb 24, 2012)

That looks awesome!


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## MacDaddy55 (Aug 19, 2008)

Great work Shay...there was a bullet train at Trainfest last Sunday and had the same gaps between cars except it was moving too fast for me to get a photo(hit with the kids)....yours makes that look toyish! Good job as always


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## Ranger (Mar 4, 2012)

You did a great job Shay.


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## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

Thanks guys...I really fell for that "beached whale" look in Phase III paint...


I shall call it Shamu and it shall be my Shamu and I will run it at train shows to fainting hoards of rivet counters...


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

Shay, With the spaces between cars like that was it made to take 18r curves (not talking cosmetically of course)?


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## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

Yes but even then they could have reduced it to 5 feet between the cars. My bet is that they didn't over engineer it, using as many stock parts as they could get away with, one of them being the trucks.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I can't believe that spacing was needed for an 18" curve, given the difference in spacing that makes it through a 20" curve!


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## mackdonn (Sep 26, 2012)

Well not trying to hi-jack the thread or anything but seeing your handy work with those couplers, I have 2 questions. I'm having a slight problem with one of my cars constantly outside derailing (derails to the outside of the track) just as the loco enters a curve. It's always the car that is right behind the loco (SD70Ace. Looks as if the rear swing of the loco is pulling the front trucks My current couplers are Kadee #5's. 

My fiirst question is do you think if I changed the couplers on the loco or the car or both to the longer shank coupler would it solve the problem? Both are body mounted couplers. Just me thinking about it, my rational is that a longer shank would lessen the outside pull on the car. 

My second question is what is the best way to lessen coupler up and down play in the draft box? It's only a problem when transitioning out of my incline and thats because it slides up and as the car in front levels out at the top, because it stays tilted up it, it uncouples just at the crest. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!!!!


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## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

Your loco has a wider swing out then the car, forcing the car's coupler further out, thus derailing it. A longer shank on the car would help but it would look odd (unless it was a cushion underframed car). Wider radius curves would be the better alternative if it was possible. 

Kadee offers shims in .010 and .015" sizes, they should help. Your track work may be too steep and the transition at the top and bottom too abrupt and need smoothing out.

Hope that helps...:thumbsup:


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## mackdonn (Sep 26, 2012)

Thanks for the quick response.....I got a pair of longer shanks so gonna try that here in just a moment. I dont have room for a lager radius curve ast that would take it right to the edge of my layout with no "cushion" for safety incase of a derailment or room for ballasting. When I say to the edge, I mean to the edge.....LOL The rail ties would actually be even with the base....I'll probably order the shims since it's not cost efficient for me to drive 90mi round trip to the closest hobby shop (Mile Post 38 in Aneheim CA) keeps everything Kadee in stock.

Thanks, I'll let you know how it turns out......


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

As Shay said for 18r curves you may need to go to a longer coupler. For my 6 axle BB diesels I had to do this. I ran into a different issue with the BB DD40 and PA1 and PB2. Since they have talgo style on the loco the coupler would stay centered while the car would go to far to the outside. I ended up re weighting an old Tyco car to have a talgo truck on the end of the locomotive and a body mount on the other. Worked great this way.


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## mackdonn (Sep 26, 2012)

The longer coupler on the going into the curve worked perfect!!! I also identified my problem why it was uncoupling at the top of the grade. I had to fabricate a curved overpass out of 1/4" foam and plaster cloth. The problem is where it mates to the woodland scenics incline I applied too many layers creating a slight hump. so when the loco goes over it the rear coupler raises then lowers so much when it bottoms out that the uncoupling pin actually drops below the height of the rail just as the car hits the top of the hump. Havent decided if I'm gonna sand it, layer more plaster cloth at the low point, or shim the track with styrene.......probably gona start with the styrene first because the other two would involve cutting and ripping up a 4 foot section of flex track. 

Once again thanks!!!! So glad I found this forum a few months ago!!!!!


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## mackdonn (Sep 26, 2012)

Needless to say the uncoupling problem is only a problem with the SD70's. F7 and GP's have no problem. Those 6 axle diesels sure are pretty but curse the problems beauty brings!!! Oh well by the time I'm done almost anything (except Big Boys and the DD40) will be able to run on my layout!!!!! Might make table 4" extensions to increase the only 18" mainline curve to 22"!!!! (to create a safety zone from the edge).


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## BillCN (Jan 6, 2013)

*Model Power bullet train*

Hi Shay..
.
I just got this Bullet in a box of "train stuff". It looks like you have "operated" on one before!
The problem here is that we seem to be missing both axles from the drive truck. So, I'm wondering if you think it might be possible to canibilize another unit for parts...or maybe the whole truck and motor or what?

Thanks inadvance for any help.
Bill
.


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## BillCN (Jan 6, 2013)

hwell:


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## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

Sorry I did not see this before...I found that it would be very difficult to do anything other than a swap from a donor unit, it simply wasn't built for anything but the toy market.


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## New Berlin RR (Feb 11, 2012)

nice work, I found one of those locally here would have grabbed it if it wern't for that annoyance called life and finances....


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Put a thin strip of wood along the edge of the table and make it look like a stone wall. Then the train can't fall off the table.
I too have lots of problems with my 6 axle locos. Even on 22" curves they tend to hang up and at turnouts too. I usually park them and use my 4 axle locos and they run great everywhere. pete


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## tiktok4321 (Jun 19, 2017)

Sorry to bring this very old thread back to life. My dear well-intended wife bought me this train for my birthday (I dabble in N, not HO or G or the other things she has bought me).

It came in factory almost brand new condition (Wow - LOOP connectors! )

Unfortunately, the loco wouldn't pull more than three coaches. Found out the traction tires were missing. Bought some Calumet tires from my LHS, and still, no traction, AND the train just gets clobbered on the track.

Now, the ONLY HO track I have is the black-bed Bachmann E-Z track. I'm sure that's probably the main culprit. Sounds like every wheel is bumping against every tie on the rail.

Anyone else have trouble with this or any other Model Power locomotive on E-Z track, or should I just invest in some Bullfrog Snot and hope that helps? My goal is to get it running nice and resell as a set.

Amtrak livery Shinkansen. Oh, dear wife...


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

tiktok4321 said:


> Bought some Calumet tires from my LHS, and still, no traction, AND the train just gets clobbered on the track


Define "clobbered".....


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## tiktok4321 (Jun 19, 2017)

Old_Hobo said:


> Define "clobbered".....


I mean it just sounds like it's hitting every tie. Can't seem to keep it on track. Sounds like metal on metal, barely any traction, moves about three cars total after finally spinning it's way to track speed. 

I'm just curious if Bachmann's black EZ track is that bad or of I need better traction tires or if Model Power is that bad.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk


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## ebtnut (Mar 9, 2017)

If the set is old enough, it might have European wheel flanges, which are considerably deeper than domestic NMRA standard wheelsets. Those deep flanges might rattle along on EZ track if the rail holders are especially thick.


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

Yeah, it's probably not the EZ track....it's the too deep wheel flanges causing the problem.....


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

duplicate post; please delete


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## tiktok4321 (Jun 19, 2017)

Old_Hobo said:


> Yeah, it's probably not the EZ track....it's the too deep wheel flanges causing the problem.....


I'll try another layer of traction...

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