# B unit slowdown after powered section



## Blue North (12 mo ago)

Today I noticed that my Walthers F7 A/B unit (pulling 2 cars) slows down, it hesitates, immediately after the power rerailer. Then it regains speed. I changed out sections of EZ track, but it did the same. Then I took the B unit off, just A and two cars, and the slowdown stopped happening. Then I ran the B unit by itself, and it does the slowdown. It feels like a power problem, but I'm also wondering if rerailers cause a hesitation. There are two other rerailers (without power) on the oval, and I don't think it's happening there, but not positive. Is there something I should check on this brand-new B unit that could be reacting to the power rerailer? If this is relevant, it is very hard to see whether the wheels are on the rails correctly because of covers. Thanks for any insights!


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

For some reason, the B unit is not riding well over that section. It seems odd that two models with the same works and frame and electronics and trucks don't ride over a length of tracks the same way, but it happens in our hobby. There must be a dirty spot on the rails, or the rails are uneven, or the plastic rerailing apparatus near the rails lifts one tire just enough that there is poor contact and you lose voltage. If the A unit passes over successfully, it probably isn't a loose joiner, but it still could be if they are not all soldered. Maybe the A unit doesn't cause a drop at the joiners, but when the B unit adds its weight there's a shift. 

It wouldn't hurt to check the wheel gauge of all axles on the B unit as well, just in case there's something a little off on one or more axles.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Do you really need those rerailers? I had a room size
HO layout with 20 plus turnouts...no rerailers...the only time I had
derails was when I ran a rain into a turnout thrown
against it. What is causing your trains to derail?

Don


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Unfortunately, it sounds like it may be time to break out the pocketbook again. Get yourself an NMRA Standards Gauge in HO scale (most hobby shops carry them, or they're available on-line) . Check the tread depth of the wheels and flangeways on the rerailer, as well as the gauge (width) of the wheels on the B unit. Also make sure that the couplers swing fully and the trucks rotate (within reason). 

Walthers / Lifelike is good stuff, but every company builds a dog now and then.


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

I’m with Don. Remove all rerailers, and see if the problem persists. 
I suspect it will. If it was a track issue, both units I’d expect to exhibit the same behavior. I could be wrong but logic says two identical units, track being common to both, only one works poorly, the problem is there in that unit.


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## prrfan (Dec 19, 2014)

So by power rerailer, you mean it’s a terminal section connected to your power supply. If this is the case then if you eliminate it you’ll need either a regular terminal section that the wires hook up to, solder the leads onto a piece of track or use power connectors where the track sections join. 

I am not familiar with EZ Track. I’m sure Bachmann has at least a regular terminal section without the rerailer. 
I agree with the other posters on replacing them. Rerailers usually are unrealistic looking attempts at grade crossings. It’s a lot easier on the operator and equipment to use a rerailing ramp instead. They cost about $5. It’s one of the best things I ever bought.


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## MidwestMikeGT (Jan 4, 2021)

Just for laughs and giggles, @Blue North, run your finger over the tracks and see if anything feels amiss to you. Check especially where they join. I have found that I had missed the join (more than once) and the joiner went under the rail. It caused a phenomenon where some engines would run fine over it and others do not.


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

prrfan said:


> I am not familiar with EZ Track. I’m sure Bachmann has at least a regular terminal section without the rerailer.


They do not…..


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## prrfan (Dec 19, 2014)

Old_Hobo said:


> They do not…..


Really? Wow! That’s such a common piece in sectional track. So it’s only the rerailer? Hmm. Maybe another reason to avoid “EZ”.


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## prrfan (Dec 19, 2014)

So in looking at the EZ Connection system, the plastic locking part and rail joiners are separate, unlike Kato which are one piece. 
Are the joiners just regular Code 100? And if so could Code 100 terminal joiners be used if there’s a way to sneak the wire in there?


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## Blue North (12 mo ago)

Hi all,

Thanks everyone for the discussion on this! A few answers about my extremely rudimentary removable setup. I didn't add any rerailers, but it appears the pieces I purchased for other reasons have a rerailer function. So I have a snap-in blinking trestle and a Pennsylvania girder bridge. Don't laugh, I love these. They have curved areas at each end of the black plastic bed, which seem to encourage rerailing. But they aren't trying to be grade crossings. Maybe they aren't really rerailers either? In any case, the problem I described occurs before the loco goes over those, and even when I removed the blinking trestle.

DonR asked why my trains are derailing so much – they're not, nothing is derailing (since I fixed one little problem on the RBMN T-1) not even the bat-out-of-hell Mehano Light Pacific. The joints are all smooth. But I use the terminal rerailer to help get trains onto the track initially, moving them back and forth over it after I get close. Bad practice?

I do have the $5 rerailing ramp, yes it does really help, though not so much for long locos or attached units. It's still a major PIA to get locos onto the track. I see why you all have turnouts.

I tend to agree with those who say it's the unit not the track, and will invest in the suggested standards gauge. Thanks again!


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

Oh ok, what you’re referring to as a “rerailer” sounds like guard rails on bridge track.


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## Blue North (12 mo ago)

OilValleyRy said:


> Oh ok, what you’re referring to as a “rerailer” sounds like guard rails on bridge track.


I thought this V at the ends of the bridges would have a rerailing function...?


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

Well it sort of does… or rather anti-derailing purpose. The correct term is guard rail. Turnouts have them also, but shorter and only near the frog center.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Those "guard rails" as they're called, aren't so much a re-railing function as safety feature. In the event of a derailment, they are more likely to keep a car more or less centered over the track, rather than toppling off into whatever obstacle is being crossed the bridge.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Blue North said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Thanks everyone for the discussion on this! A few answers about my extremely rudimentary removable setup. I didn't add any rerailers, but it appears the pieces I purchased for other reasons have a rerailer function. So I have a snap-in blinking trestle and a Pennsylvania girder bridge. Don't laugh, I love these. They have curved areas at each end of the black plastic bed, which seem to encourage rerailing. But they aren't trying to be grade crossings. Maybe they aren't really rerailers either? In any case, the problem I described occurs before the loco goes over those, and even when I removed the blinking trestle.
> 
> ...


It's your layout -- you run what you like, and you use whatever track pieces / buildings / etc. you like. The Golden Rule in this hobby is "Your Layout, your Rules". Just recognize that sometimes nostalgia can interfere with sound operating principles, and you have to make a choice: use something you love and accept the issues, or sadly put it aside as a display piece and focus on how things run on your layout.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

Yes, those are bridge guards. They take an item of rolling stock at is already derailed and threatening to climb off the right of way, dragging other cars with it, and keep it thumping over the ties, all the way over the bridge. Who wants to fish laden box cars out of Trout Creek?!? Or get sued for polluting the creek?

A proper rerailer has plastic ramps at either end that are wedge shaped and force the car to center its trucks, climb over the rails, and get seated in the gauge, flanges inboard of the rails where they should be. Also, Rix, I think, makes a long plastic ramp rerailer for just a few bucks. Walthers, Micro Mark....look around.

You asked if running cars back and forth over that to get them railed is a good idea. Absolutely NOT. If nothing else, you will ruin the metal finish on the tires of the wheels or mar the flanges. Get used to picking up items over top, finger tips under the belly, gently, and set the item on the tracks. One hand holds the item suspended, the other hand gets the trucks parallel to the rails.


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## prrfan (Dec 19, 2014)

Yep, those are guard rails. I love it! It’s not the first time the OP and the respondents were talking about two different things. 😃
No worries, but that’s why photos first are usually best with questions like this. 

And as to the “classic” accessories like the blinking bridge: It’s whatever you like and have fun with. There are plenty of nice bridges that can be bought, built or scratch built. But how is the layout being used? In my case I have young grandsons that have at it, and I’m not about to sacrifice money and time in something that could be damaged in daily use.

As for the rerailer and ramp: Light rolling stock is usually no problem with the back and forth. Heavier locomotives or long passenger cars, maybe. My Kato ramp accommodates 85’ cars as well as very heavy old steamers but it may be longer than yours.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

prrfan said:


> Yep, those are guard rails. I love it! It’s not the first time the OP and the respondents were talking about two different things. 😃
> No worries, but that’s why photos first are usually best with questions like this.
> 
> And as to the “classic” accessories like the blinking bridge: It’s whatever you like and have fun with. There are plenty of nice bridges that can be bought, built or scratch built. But how is the layout being used? In my case I have young grandsons that have at it, and I’m not about to sacrifice money and time in something that could be damaged in daily use.
> ...


I think her issue is with a mated F7A/B unit, so twice the length of a standard locomotive.


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## prrfan (Dec 19, 2014)

Yea, listen to Mesenteria. Maybe, nothing. Dan has been running junkers too long. 🤣😂
I use the ramp for my few good locos. You’re buying good stuff, treat it well.


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

These are Bacmann’s nickel silver re-railer pieces, and there is a straight section (2 pack) without the terminal clip piece, my bad!


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

My thoughts for the OP...

*If* you have the one engine (B unit) that has problems passing over the rerailer, but runs fine everywhere else...
_*and*_
If you can change out the rerailer for another piece of (standard) track...
_*then*_
Change it out, see if that clears up the problem...


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## prrfan (Dec 19, 2014)

Old_Hobo said:


> These are Bacmann’s nickel silver re-railer pieces, and there is a straight section (2 pack) without the terminal clip piece, my bad!
> 
> View attachment 576620
> 
> ...


No, you’re still right. Those others are just plain rerailers. I was thinking of just a regular terminal section with no rerailer. I haven’t found any except the insulated gap sections they use for the point to point reverser track system.
It seems unlikely but apparently they don’t have them. 
If anyone finds them we’ll give them an official MTF attaboy (or girl). With that and $5.59 you can get a Big Mac at Mc Donald’s ! 😃


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## Blue North (12 mo ago)

Hi all, coming back to this after further diagnosing the problem. Appreciate all the good comments. I now think the B unit was objecting to the fact that my terrible EZ track was hanging slightly off the side of the table. Yes we have exactly 44" wide table with 22" o/c radius, which means the sides stick out just a bit. I've only had this going for a month, and I'm learning that some things I was blaming on trains were really due to the uneven surface that my track is on. Also, our old house slants quite a bit. (Seriously, I put a lone car on the upper end and it runs quite fast all by itself to the bottom and halfway up the other side!) All the other trains run fine on it though, so it was natural, maybe, to blame it on the one engine that was slowing down. When I moved the track in farther, it did OK. Sorry Walthers!


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## prrfan (Dec 19, 2014)

Blue North said:


> Hi all, coming back to this after further diagnosing the problem. Appreciate all the good comments. I now think the B unit was objecting to the fact that my terrible EZ track was hanging slightly off the side of the table. Yes we have exactly 44" wide table with 22" o/c radius, which means the sides stick out just a bit. I've only had this going for a month, and I'm learning that some things I was blaming on trains were really due to the uneven surface that my track is on. Also, our old house slants quite a bit. (Seriously, I put a lone car on the upper end and it runs quite fast all by itself to the bottom and halfway up the other side!) All the other trains run fine on it though, so it was natural, maybe, to blame it on the one engine that was slowing down. When I moved the track in farther, it did OK. Sorry Walthers!


So you ran brand new locomotives on track that was sitting *over* the edge of the layout? 😳 That was brave. They really slow down after they hit the floor. 
We usually recommend some type of short barrier wall, wood, plexiglass or even strips of stiff cardboard tacked on the side. Even if you go to 48” wide I would still do it. Weird things can happen during derailments.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

prrfan said:


> So you ran brand new locomotives on track that was sitting *over* the edge of the layout? 😳 That was brave. _They really slow down after they hit the floor._
> We usually recommend some type of short barrier wall, wood, plexiglass or even strips of stiff cardboard tacked on the side. Even if you go to 48” wide I would still do it. Weird things can happen during derailments.


But they speed up on the way down!


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## Blue North (12 mo ago)

prrfan said:


> So you ran brand new locomotives on track that was sitting *over* the edge of the layout? 😳 That was brave. They really slow down after they hit the floor.
> We usually recommend some type of short barrier wall, wood, plexiglass or even strips of stiff cardboard tacked on the side. Even if you go to 48” wide I would still do it. Weird things can happen during derailments.


Inspired by watching all those maniacs in Downhill Skiing and Skeleton! Perform at the edge of disaster or go home! 

Since this is on our dining room table, we do have protection from six high-backed chairs along the sides, see pictures. They also tend to cheat the track slightly inward. But, it has to be checked and adjusted frequently to make sure the rails themselves are over solid table.

I will take your word for it and be more careful about that. So far, nothing has derailed worse than just making crunching noises while still moving along, but I expect it will happen. The curves are well in from the edge on the near end (9' table), but a guard rail at the window end is a good idea.

This has to be partially disassembled for Valentine's Day, so I'm keeping things temporary!


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## prrfan (Dec 19, 2014)

That’s a beautiful table. You’re certainly not tacking anything to the sides of that. You also have some great looking locos and we hope they stay that way. 😀
Be safe. 👍


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## Blue North (12 mo ago)

prrfan said:


> That’s a beautiful table. You’re certainly not tacking anything to the sides of that. You also have some great looking locos and we hope they stay that way. 😀
> Be safe. 👍


Thanks! We love this table but it's deceptive - a Craigslist special, it is starting to crack badly (as seen in front of the 2102, first picture) because the underside wasn't finished, nor the wood properly weathered (says our woodworker son-in-law). I asked him if the vibration of the trains would make the crack worse, and he said absolutely not.


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