# Parallel AF Track Runs



## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

I submitted a question in another thread, but it may have been missed. What is the minimum distance between centerlines of vintage AF track that allows parallel runs? I am also interested in this issue when using the newer 27" R curve sections with the vintage 19" R curve sections? Anyone who has created this in a layout, please send your thoughts. Thanks.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Perhaps more technical than you need, but ...

Clearances ...

http://www.nmra.org/standards/sandrp/pdf/s-7_2011_02.pdf

Track center-to-center in curves ...

http://www.nmra.org/standards/sandrp/s-8.html

TJ


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Yes, that is more technical than I was looking for but it does offer some helpful info, thank you. My concern is that I do not yet have any of the longer rolling stock -- passenger cars, crane cars, etc. -- and I am trying to layout my track plan on paper while planning for future acquisitions of these items. To allow enough distance between tracks for curves, I need to allow a distance which prevents any collision with one of those long coaches traversing the outer track while a loco -- with the front end extending over the rails -- may be passing on the inner track. I would prefer to keep the distance between parallel lines the same in both the curved sections and straight sections for asthetics, consistency and continuity. The difference between the two radius curve sections I have (19" R and 27" R) would figure to a 7 or 8 inch distance between centerlines. This seems rather excessive. Can anyone with experience creating a layout with the AF vintage track add to this?


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

I run rubber roadbed on my layout, and it runs about 2 3/4" center to center.


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## AF296 (Feb 29, 2012)

When you say 19" R I'm assumeing you mean original S gauge flyer track. (by the way is a 40" radus outside to outside of the ties).. I haven't tested 40" yet, But the 27" you speak of is a 54"radus.. If you put a 1/2" piece of straight track in between each piece of 54" curved track in the outside loop only, it widens the total radus of the outside loop to 55"++. When doing this you can keep a center to center line of about 3 1/4". If your using rubber roadbed this gives you about 1/2" from edge to edge of the bed. I know this because I build radus truss bridges. I use streamline passenger cars and Hudson engines for clearances when making all templets for the AF bridges.. I have a double 54" almost finished. I can only assume that the same theory will work with the 40" track also..


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## Aflyer (Nov 10, 2010)

Nuttin But Flyer.

I just reviewed the ACSG Module requirements and have pasted the link below. These specifications call for a 5" spacing between the inner and outer rails.
This may also seem excessive but I think it looks good when the trains are running.

http://www.trainweb.org/acsg/ModSpecs/ModSpec1.html

George


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## AF296 (Feb 29, 2012)

Hi George: Thanks for the info. I saw this somewhere before.. Didn't really care for it because the space between the 2 sets of track isn't equal through out the whole turn.. As soon as I get mine set the way I want it I'll post a picture. Thanks Again


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

SHS track provides 5" centerline spacing using their system. I have some in an offset arrangement where the minimum separation is 4" and this works for all engines including the Big Boy and Challenger. Straight sections can be much closer together, but this will require easements at the transition from straight to curved. 
Tom


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## ChopperCharles (Jan 3, 2012)

Well, if you want to have switches between the tracks, you're limited to the minimum distance an AF switch will allow you to space them. That is five and a quarter inches rail-to-rail. If you cut down a switch, you can get that to three inches. Don't know about clearances in curves, I only have straights in parallel. 

Charles.


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

All this info is great for planning my layout. I especially like the construction techniques used by the ACSG group that Aflyer provided. Using 5" center-to-center seems to be a good distance and should provide the clearance between switch bodies that Charles mentions. Thanks one and all.


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## The New Guy (Mar 11, 2012)

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> ...Using 5" center-to-center seems to be a good distance and should provide the clearance between switch bodies that Charles mentions...


Have you seen his video? He modified the switches to put the tracks closer together - I really like the way it looks -


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## AF296 (Feb 29, 2012)

Hey Guys sorry for the delay. Finally got far enought that I could get some picutres. Also took some time to figure out how to get them to this mail. But anyway, Keeping 3-3/8" center to center through the whole turn. I set up a worst case seniaro with a Northern on the inside loop and 13" steamline passenger cars on the outside loop. There is still about 1/4" between back of engine cab and the center of the car.. Check out the pictures....


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## AF296 (Feb 29, 2012)

Just noticed that the pictures I thought I put on arn't there. Can someone tell me what I'm doing wrong...


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## Aflyer (Nov 10, 2010)

AF296,
Hi, I can't wait to see your photo's, unfortunately I have never posted any, so I can't tell you from experience. But someone who has done it will be able to help you!

Aflyer


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## ChopperCharles (Jan 3, 2012)

*photos. 

Charles.


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## AF296 (Feb 29, 2012)

Here's the pics that I thought loaded...


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## Aflyer (Nov 10, 2010)

AF296,
That track spacing looks good, and that is about what I have on my current layout, although I plan to go wider if I can on my new layout. I really like your bridge, and the mountains and water scene. Looks great and thanks for sharing.
Aflyer


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Ditto on the bridge. That looks laser cut? Unique. Very nice. Do tell!

TJ


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## AF296 (Feb 29, 2012)

Hi TJ: Thank You, Yes the sides are laser cut, Originaly I was cutting them with several routers and jigs.. That took forever to do. Now I have someone to laser cut them.. There still alot of work though. Have to steam the sides and put them in a mold, then let them sit for a day or two. The sides are natural walnut and the top and bottom are cabinet grade birch plywood for strength. I've been making them for about 3 or 4 yrs. I make them for lionel 27" 30" and 36" and AF 40" and 54" . The one in the picture is a double 54"


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