# Northwest Timber Co - MRR's HO Layout



## Browneye (4 mo ago)

I posted this track diagram in my introduction post, but thought I would start a thread on building it out. Feedback and suggestions for modifications and improvements are always welcome.

I subscribed to MRR and with that got access to all their digital old stuff. There are a lot publications for layout planning, this one came up and fit the bill. We are looking at moving in about a year and a half, so this would be an interim project, with the idea that it would get either scrapped and start over, or expanded into a round-the-room type of design. For now, this would fit in a spare room.

I downloaded and installed Anytrack design software and found it extremely difficult to use. So I downloaded the Atlas version of Scarm, and it's a breeze. I did a number of designs for a corner layout, about a 6x9 triangle with 18" radius curves, then came to realize I wouldn't be able to reach the back of the layout. And the more I researched the more it made sense to do a modular layout that goes around the perimeter of the room. But that's too much to tackle with a home move coming up in a year or two.

Anyway, I could fit a 5x9 island in the spare room, and then I saw this little setup and it really clicked with me. I have all short rolling stock, and short locos, and this could be quickly built and get my hobby interests addressed.

I have a little more room, so this could be expanded just a bit more, either on the left/front or right on the yard side. For example, the yard at the back could have a few more spurs, or an additional spur at the front (left side). Looking for input and ideas. OTOH, just building it as is, with the supplied plans, would be very simple and get me going quickly.

Let me know what you think. I can post a PDF of the rest of the 'how-to' article this came in. Such as more images, the center backdrop, benchwork, etc.


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## SF Gal (11 mo ago)

I like it. I think you will have fun staging, running consists between destinations and figuring switching puzzles. 
Not to mention the joy of building and detailing, making backdrops and wiring lights and signals.
It will keep you plenty busy until you move, that is for sure.


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

I have the 8 #4 switches on hand, and all the flex track and peco curved switches and roadbed is priced out at $220 in my cart. 

I want those caboose switch machines. 
I'm a cabinet maker/boat builder with all the tools, so frame up would be a weekend project.


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## kilowatt62 (Aug 18, 2019)

Welcome aboard the MTF Chris. You’ll enjoy the ride here. Ticket please to continue. 😉
I think that that is a slick lil layout for a first module piece. Easy to see where I would start extending the track from.
What brand of #4 turnouts (TOs) are you using? Peco?
$220 for everything you listed? Track, turnouts, and roadbed? Wow. Thats cheap.


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

I have atlas custom #4's, there are 8 of them. The plan calls for peco small radius. The latter would cost another $250, so I'm inclined to use what I have. Since I don't have any double curve turnouts, it makes sense to buy the peco ones, there's just three. And peco rail, joiners, feeders, etc.

I toy with fiddling with the design, extending it out, making the top a little bigger. Just so much hassle for so little payback - they've done a good job with it as is - simple, clean, unique, uncluttered, no weird s-curves or sharp turns.


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## kilowatt62 (Aug 18, 2019)

I agree with it being fine as is. The expansion comment I made eludes to you possibly transporting this plan to the new residence and enlarge it. Hopefully you’ll able to do so.


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

I posted that I tried ANYTRACK layout planning software first, but now just looking I see it was XTrackCad. I spent an hour or two and finally gave up, it's worse than Adobe Illustrator as non-intuitive software.

I was going to try SCARM, then came to find out it was also offered by ATLAS for less money, and got good reviews, so I downloaded it and it was pretty easy to get up to speed. Did a half dozen variations, played with the settings, was able to do some really unique layouts with it. My only complaint is that I clicked on the program popup Tuesday morning to buy a license - you download a 'demo version', then buy the license for expanded features and capabilities. So I placed my order and still today, I have not been billed for nor received the software license. At least they are responsive, even if way too slow.

Some valuable tips I learned doing a ton of research...bigger is better, curves 18" radius or less won't work for bigger rolling stock, and you better be able to reach all areas of the layout. And then, 'round-the-room' verses an 'island' is just way better use of floor space. So most of what I had drawn simply wouldn't work. I'm glad I dug into what's available out there for free advice from so many experienced modelers.

I was going through a storage box of model RR parts from over twenty years ago, and there was a drawing I made way back then for a layout. Even some correspondence from a UseNet type of online communication, I think it was before the internet really took off. About the time my 28yo son, the youngest of three was born. LOL. Anyway, my assumption is it was something I had in mind from my n-scale days, had a layout back about 1989, and at that point decided to switch my scale to HO. Back then N-scale was really limited, and I still think everything is too small. Now that I'm old and my vision is going, it's particularly apropos. 😄

Anyway, after spending a few hours developing my drawing in the Atlas/Scarm, I came to realize I had spurs opposite facing each other on the loop, no passing siding, and that there is just no way I would be able to physically reach the back of the layout at 9x7 feet. Oh well, good experience and some entertainment over the long weekend. Then I started tinkering with it for access at the back, then an island type layout, then went looking for some help. LOL Here's what it looks like, a brain-fart from 25 years ago...



Then refined it to this...passing siding, spurs going the same direction off the loop, removed the crossover...then shelved it for reach. LOL


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

One thing I would like some suggestions on for the Northwest Timber Co layout is for DC powering it. Since I already have an old MRC Tech-II transformer/controller I thought I would go ahead and use it. Maybe down the road I'll graduate to DCC, but for now it would be premature.

So, where's the best place to mount the controller? With that yard in the back, behind the backdrop, it might be inconvenient for switching control. Maybe I could set it up so it could be moved around. Obviously this layout was designed with a walk-around controller in mind.


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

Solved. I'll order one of Ken Stapleton's 852B controllers. Will wire for block control for this small layout, just one cab.


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

Good luck with the build, sounds like your learning fast.  
Keep us posted.

Magic


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

Threw it up on Atlas track planning. I think it's a little wider than as designed, but fits and works. Will build the table top to fit. 
Finally got a license for the program, but can't find any scenery tools. Took them all week to process a license!


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

One word of caution. Atlas Snap switches are *very bad*, I would recommend
you use the Custom Line switches (Turnouts) if you have to use Atlas. Better but still not great.

There are much better turnouts out there, Peco and Walthers for example, but more money.
They and all others have a different geometry and do not interchange.

Pretty good plan for a small space. Need to run all smaller rolling stock and locos.
You have got a small runaround track and the long track on the left can be used to make up 
and break up longer trains.  
Good luck with the build. 

Magic


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

My atlas 4’s say customline on the bottom side. Got them at least 25 years ago.

For the 3 double-curve I ordered peco, and peco flex track. All code 100 since I already had the old switches. Otherwise would probably have gone code 83.

Caboose spring manual switchthrows. Block control with one cab/throttle.

If the consensus is that peco switches are much better then I’ll breakdown and buy the 8 I will need. They’re $25 each!

Old time logging theme, all short cars are 36-40’. I want a PFM brass shay and a rivarossi heisler. Curves are minimum 18 radius.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Atlas track planning software really isn't. It's a marketing tool for Atlas products.

If you REALLY want to add scenery, etc, get yourself a quality track planning package from an jndependent company. However, you really don't need to plan scenery with the software.

There is another reason to get a better software package: no two turnouts have exactly the same dimensions. Changing to a different part number (even Atlas Snap Switches to Customline) will alter the geometry of your layout. Some of these differences will be easily compensated for, others can make your design unworkable.


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

CTValleyRR said:


> Atlas track planning software really isn't. It's a marketing tool for Atlas products.
> 
> If you REALLY want to add scenery, etc, get yourself a quality track planning package from an jndependent company. However, you really don't need to plan scenery with the software.
> 
> There is another reason to get a better software package: no two turnouts have exactly the same dimensions. Changing to a different part number (even Atlas Snap Switches to Customline) will alter the geometry of your layout. Some of these differences will be easily compensated for, others can make your design unworkable.


NOW you tell me. 

Back in the day we didn't have tracking planning software. It was a quadrille pad and pencil, or full size on the layout. I actually did some searching online for program reviews and the atlas one came out on top. Why did it take them a week to process an order for a license? And then it added nothing to the download demo. Dear lord. Oh well, $45 isn't a horribly costly lesson. I can likely make it all work once the structure is built. 

We used to lay cork on a plywood top or ribbon. Now it seems everyone puts an inch or two of foam sheeting on top. Seems do-able. For such a small area I'm glad there are no grades/overpasses. 

I have some remodeling to do in the room it will go in, it has been a home gym. The multi-station weight machine needs to go, then some drywall work from the plumbers, and new flooring. Anybody wanna pickup a weight machine???? LOL


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## Berrychon (4 mo ago)

You can try the free version of Anyrail:





AnyRail™ - The easiest model railroad design software







www.anyrail.com


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

A little progress...
Still waiting for someone to buy my home gym. A guy in NY wanted it, but the cost to ship was as much as the 430lb setup.

Sheetrock got fixed in that room - we had two slab leaks over the past year, bypassed with PEX, but the plumbers cut about ten holes in the drywall in that room and our entry hall. All fixed, patched, textured, and painted - looks like a new house.

I have the modular structure framing figured out with two 3x7 foot modules, on a L-girder base with casters, so it's easy to move around, and easy to breakdown to move. There are two switches in the long-way split for the modules that will be easy to simply remove to break down. The center backdrop can be un-screwed from the base. Everything will just get built in two halves.

I was disappointed the Atlas track planning software has no additional options or features after buying the license. Maybe I need to download something...

I played with the plan some more to fit my space - reduced the overall size to 6x7 verses 6x8. The original design from MRR is a 6x6 with the corners lopped off. And I flipped it - reversed it, a mirror image. This makes it fit my space much better, makes no difference in how it's built. One thing I did notice about the track plan is that the center spurs come off the circle opposite from the storage tracks at the back. I think it will still work fine, run trains in either direction.

I did get one of Ken Stapleton's walk-around DC controllers - very cool piece. Can't wait to try it out.
And a can-motor upgrade for an old roundhouse Climax loco.

Ordered and received all the track and turnouts - ended up ordering new PECO electro-frog switches after all, and a bit more track to fit the slightly larger plan. Another call-out for Cherry Creek Hobbies, referenced elsewhere on the forum - they shipped all my PECO track and turnouts quickly and at really great prices. Very reliable source for components.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

So did the Atlas software allow you to use PECO turnouts in the plan? If not, you may find that you have a track geometry problem because the Pecos are not the same size and shape as the Atlas products, even if they have the same frog number. Also, in the bottom center where you have a curved turnout feeding into a crossover made of two straight turnouts looks like it might be too sharp for longer equipment to manage.


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

No, atlas software is for atlas track. LOL
All short equipment.
For track laying, the template will simply be a guide. Set down turnouts, connect with flex track. I'll get a laying gauge to keep the curves uniform, minimum 18". 
I think the curved turnouts are 24" radius. Hope it all fits.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Browneye said:


> No, atlas software is for atlas track. LOL
> All short equipment.
> For track laying, the template will simply be a guide. Set down turnouts, connect with flex track. I'll get a laying gauge to keep the curves uniform, minimum 18".
> I think the curved turnouts are 24" radius. Hope it all fits.


Well, that's why I referred to the Atkas software as a marketing tool, not true track planning software. It is often necessary to tweak a plan slightly when actually laying track, but a different brand of turnout may give you a bigger headache than just a tweak. Good luck.


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

The original 6x6 design from MRR utilized the very same switches I just sourced. Why would you think the track plan would not fit on a slightly larger area? Please tell me what you think is missing.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Go back and carefully read what I said. It's not a question of physically being able to plunk down track in a physical area. It's a question of the geometry being different and things not lining up properly. A very small deviation or lateral displacement can mean that your track ends no longer join up without a kink or an unacceptably tight curve.

If you have the materials list for the layout plan (which isn't common with MR's track plans), and you used the same parts, then it will definitely fit... but if you have a plan with different dimensions owing to drawing it with a different make / model of turnout, your plan is useless for laying that track, because no measurement you take from that drawing will be accurate. Maybe you can compensate for this with flex track as you lay your track, but maybe not. The worst thing you can do is have sloppy trackwork due to too much fudging.


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

Progress...
Thought I would post an update as some progress has been made over the past couple of weeks....

Weight machine is STILL for sale - have it down so cheap now it's like donation level. I cannot believe a region with 30-million citizens doesn't have someone that wants a state-of-the-art home gym. I guess people are just not buying stuff right now. Anyway, so it got disassembled and moved out, all the walls patched and re-textured, painted, new carpet - a proper train room!

The final layout design got flipped over and lengthened to 8', then to 7' and everything still fit, so I built it to 7'-6" or 90" long. Lots of extra space now, and a couple of extra inches in the train yard at the back, enough to add one more spur. Will be handy for storing extra locos and rolling stock.

Got three new locos off ebay - a cheapie Athearn switcher that needs traction tires - otherwise it runs pretty good. A GP9 diesel that with some tuning and cleaning up runs like butter. And a Rivarossi Heisler that is virtually new, a super steal-deal, and it runs like a swiss watch. Very happy with it. The new stuff needs some weathering - time to break out the airbrush. Wifey has taken an interest in scenery, so she's going to stage some scenes on one side of the layout - the 'business' side, the other side is the log pond, saw mill, and lumber yard. I have a few building kits from now defunct kit builders.

Put a couple of track lengths together and hooked up the transformer to test, which was fun, and to check out some old rolling stock I've had in storage for the past twenty five years. Also tested out the AC-powered walk-around controller from Ken Stapleton, and that thing is just fantastic. So my block control can have DPDT switches to run trains on either the DC throttle, or the walk-around. I can put a train on the continuous loop and then do some switching the yard or spurs.

Base support built L-girder style, 1x4 support joists with 1/4" plywood, 1" foam goes over. Went with a modular design on good advice here, two halves, removable legs, and removable backdrop - it can easily be disassembled and moved when necessary. Overall it's nice and light and easy to move around on carpet casters. Even got the backdrop sky painted. Foam base is next and get to laying some track.


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

I'm ready to glue down the 1" architectural foam, split down the middle for the two halves. 
Last night I thought I would tinker with how the track plan might fit due to warnings here that nothing would fit right. On the opposite side from the log pond - remember my build is a mirror image of the original plan - all of the curved and multiple switches are mostly on that side. Their positioning is critical to get everything to line up, but it surely does. In fact, using a tape measure for radius, all curves are 20" or more. It will all come together nicely. Can't wait to get to laying track down. 

There's also room in the yard area at the back for another curved switch - I had an extra when I flipped the plan - so now I can fit a third spur.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

No one said that nothing would fit right. I said that if you are using a different model of turnout than those in your track plan, you MAY have issues. And you won't know if you do until you have laid ALL the track, and find that the ends don't match up like you expected.

Sounds like everything is going well so far, so that's good news.


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

CTValleyRR said:


> No one said that nothing would fit right. I said that if you are using a different model of turnout than those in your track plan, you MAY have issues. And you won't know if you do until you have laid ALL the track, and find that the ends don't match up like you expected.
> 
> Sounds like everything is going well so far, so that's good news.


I could definitely tell what you're getting at when setting the turnouts down and aligning flex track to them. Just a minor rotation or position adjustment can make a huge difference on whether the ends will meet up or not, while keeping all curves as broad as possible. Especially where there are several turnouts oriented to each other. I have one of those PECO track radius gauges coming, so I can ensure all curves have smooth transitions from the switches. I now see why the PECO turnouts are recommended, they work super nice and smooth. Going to add the caboose manual actuators. 

The difficult turnouts to align will be done first, full size on the layout, not from the plan. That way adjustments can be made so that the ends DO match up, before cutting and gluing all the track down. 
The left-hand side of the layout is much simpler, and easy to make the ends connect, so once the right side is setup I can extend the ends out to the other side, cut the tunnel, etc. 

I'm quite confident I can squeeze what they had on there - I gave myself an extra nine square feet of table top to work with/within. I have a lot of extra room to move things around so everything will fit.

I got half of the layout top foam glued down and trimmed - really turned out nicely. A serrated planer shaves down the edges of the foam flush to the support facia boards, giving a nice clean edge. And liquid nails spread out with a notched paddle to glue it down. It's really solid. Will finish the edges/perimeter with hardboard profiled to fit the scenery, and painted, with a curtain type apron. 

These new build techniques gleaned from here and in the how-to publications really makes construction much more straightforward compared to years ago. Lightweight materials configured to provide a really solid structure. Having it on casters makes it super easy to move around in the room for access all around. I would much rather have done an around-the-room design, but we plan to take it with us in about year when we move, and then the two halves will likely turn into modules for a perimeter type design. I plan to have a bigger room or area to work with in the future.


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

Here's the basic drawing I'm working from now. But again, will group turnouts oriented to each other and set down, then adjust position and rotation to ensure the connecting track will line up. 
All curves are 20" radius or greater.


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

Got some good time to work on the layout this weekend. 
Cut tunnel thru backdrop for the main line, cork roadbed is glued down. Went to a new (to me) shop in the next county and got a vintage steam loco. 

In laying down switches and planning connecting track and getting everything to line up, I've decided the double turnouts at the bottom of the plan is really part of the 'main line'. So every loop the train would have to go through those two turnouts like an 'S' jog. I think that's a problem, it should be a smooth loop without having to jog from the outside loop back to the inside to finish the loop. The outside loop really goes into (or from) the storage yard. 

So I got to thinking overnight about what could be changed to make the main loop flow better. And I also found out what CTValley is getting at with the atlas planning program and how their stuff doesn't match the Peco turnouts, especially the curved ones. What works on the program doesn't fit the same on the actual layout. I'm glad I did some preliminary routing and configuring to see how everything would connect. 

Here's a routing re-draw for the main loop without a jog at the bottom, and I ordered another switch as my count changed. By deleting a turnout and changing the flow, I still get my two passing sidings, but the inside loop can flow all the way around without the jog. The outside track on the lower portion, the outside loop can switchback to the main line - the inside track, or go straight to the yard. The inside loop no longer has to jog. I'm now curious why they designed it that way, and I think this is going to work a LOT better. 

 


Here's the fifties vintage brass steamer I got. It had been dropped and dented the cab roof, so I straightened it out, and sanded it in prep to repaint. It runs really well, surprisingly, as old as it is. 

 

Here's some turn-out repositioning on the right side of the layout, and got a overall base coat of 'earth' color over the purple insulation board. 

 

Oh, and my track lighting came, with 500 lumen flood lamp style led hoods.


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

Last night I converted all my rolling stock to Kadee couplers. They really are slick. 
Tested out a new Spectrum 0-6-0 saddle tank switcher that came in - runs like like a swiss watch.


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

Mainline is operating!

Had a good weekend to tinker - all the track and switches are laid, most of the feeders installed. Wired up the main line for either variable DC with the old TechII transformer, or using the AC terminals to power a walk-around throttle. Both work just great. Will install a DPDT switch for the main loop, and for the blocks for sidings and stubs.

Very happy with everything - the PECO switches work just killer. I painstakingly cut and set track for smooth running and all of my locos really do run like butter - right down to a crawl. I'm a little disappointed with how much sound resonates thru the insulation foam into the underlayment. Mostly it's just gear noise - my two newest locos are the quietest, so they're not too bad. 

No jerky corners, switch connect joints, or transitions - very smooth. I don't have grades to contend with so no elevation transitions or anything like that. I did pre-solder rail joints before curving the flex track - Peco code 100 - and glued everything down with acrylic caulk. Also quite happy with how this turned out. This is a new way to build from the old days where you put track nails in homasote or plywood. I had my doubts about gluing everything, from the 1" foam to the plywood sub-base, then cork roadbed to that, then the track to the roadbed. So far so good. Whomever figured out acrylic caulk would work for track was just brilliant. And the cheapest 'liquid nails' construction adhesive was cheap and worked great for the insulation board and cork road bed. Miracle adhesives! 

Next is to build a control panel and finish wiring up all the blocks - I have 6 stubs and two passing sidings, plus the main loop, for 9 blocks, two controls. I'm finding 20 gauge to be a little bulky for feeders, after running out of the pre-made Peco rail joints with feeders. So I'm going to pick up some 22g solid core, and run the rest of the blocks with 20g twisted pair. I'll use a lexan panel painted on the back with a block diagram with thin line trim tape, then drill for mini-toggle switches. I have a lot of feeder wires to solder to the switches. I'm also using terminal blocks so all feeder wires can be disconnected from the two halves and the control panel so the whole thing can be broken down and moved. 

Once everything is running good then will move on to ballasting all the track.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

You might experiment with 1/4" drywall for track roadbed. Just make sure you paint it if you decide to use it. Less likely to work would be to glue crossbeams of wood under the foam to dampen the foam "speakers". Yes they make 1/4" dry wall, but I have never figured out how to get a 4/8 sheet home. Its so flimsily that it just breaks, In small sections it should be easier to transport and drywall actually does take track nails, although I would just use caulk. You can probably get a freebie piece of 1/4" drywall to try this out. They most have lots of broken pieces!


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

Lemonhawk said:


> You might experiment with 1/4" drywall for track roadbed. Just make sure you paint it if you decide to use it. Less likely to work would be to glue crossbeams of wood under the foam to dampen the foam "speakers". Yes they make 1/4" dry wall, but I have never figured out how to get a 4/8 sheet home. Its so flimsily that it just breaks, In small sections it should be easier to transport and drywall actually does take track nails, although I would just use caulk. You can probably get a freebie piece of 1/4" drywall to try this out. They most have lots of broken pieces!


Thanks, but I wouldn't be starting over. LOL And drywall is HORRIBLE to work with, I've done enough remodeling and re-sheet rocking for a lifetime. The last time I used quarter inch sheetrock was about thirty years ago for a radiused (curved) wall - two layers, wetted down and screwed to the studs - worked perfectly. 

Homasote was the hot setup in the past, but I'm not sure you can even buy it these days around the country. I just did a quick search and it seems the company is still around, but not sure about the original product, and the local lumber and building supply stores no longer carry it. Lowe's (out of stock) has un-faced 'sound board', for $42/sheet. 

HD doesn't even carry the rigid foam boards anymore either - just the 'R-TECH' extruded foam board with the mylar film that pills all over the place when you cut it. Uh, no. 

The platform IS 'cross-beamed' with 1x4's every 12" or so, glued and nailed, then 1/4" plywood glued and nailed to the frames. 1" foam is glued to the plywood. Perhaps 2" foam would have worked better - I thought the 1" would be thick enough for HO modeling - dig out for a log pond, etc.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

Try Homasote Roadbed | Central & Western HomaRoad Supply for homasote roadbed. Yes Drywall is messy, but it will deaden the sound!


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

Lemonhawk said:


> Try Homasote Roadbed | Central & Western HomaRoad Supply for homasote roadbed. Yes Drywall is messy, but it will deaden the sound!


I think you're not getting it...I'm well past that stage. And yes, the homaroad is a nice option, but they are currently running 9-12 weeks to order. And the stuff is $$$. Uh, no.


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## REdington (Aug 20, 2018)

I know it's too late, but I try to warn people about the resonating noise of foam based layouts.

Back in the early '90, I built a set of 5, 4 foot long of N TraK modules. The base of the modules were made from 4" thick blue foam with cork under the track. The train running noise resonated loudly. It could be heard at times above the crowd noise. Needless to say, that is the last time I ever laid track on foam. I'm a firm advocate of Micore. It's somewhat like Homasote, but it's fiberglass based and will not expand or contract. It's not as dense as Homasote, but holds track nails well.


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

Pretty much EVERYTHING on layout how-to today is foam over plywood or 1x4 joists. I cannot believe it. Oh well.


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

It's live...






Did all the wiring this weekend, control panel and feeds for both walk-around and transformer power cab-control DC.
10 blocks means I soldered 60 leads for the DPDT electrical switches and block feeds. Everything is labeled and terminal-block connected so it can easily be unhooked and taken down. I used a surprising amount of wire - track feeds are 22G solid core, the rest is 20G hookup wire, maybe 100' or more. It was a lot of work - I can only imagine what it takes to power a huge layout. Everything works!

I found a lot of how to do its around here and on YT, built a control panel box with starboard and lexan, striped and painted the back, drilled for all the switches and mounted. I spent a little time troubleshooting a couple of mislabeled blocks, had one polarity reversed and a couple of switches reversed, and one turn-out that failed internally that a little solder fixed. I used to say I can't solder or weld, but I keep having to do this stuff and it works out okay - I don't burn or melt too much stuff when I do. LOL


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

I used a large-size DPDT switch for the main loop, and doubled up the feed wires to the rest of the switches with connector-jumper wires. The larger switch has screw posts for forked terminals, doubled up 20G feed wire. I used about three 25' rolls of red/black feeder wire. All the block feeds are red and black 20g wire with 22G solid core wire to the rail feeds and DPDT mini-switches. I'm happy to say it all works really well. The locos run like little swiss watches. Even the old AHM switcher with new traction tires. And setting everything up with kadee couplers at the right height was a lot of work. I've spent nearly a hundred bucks just on couplers.  I have maybe a grand in this so far. Wifey says it's fine as long as I'm happy.


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

Progress report...November 2022

All trackage is now painted and ballasted. That was a lot of work. I first airbrushed the track with Floquil Rail Brown (really old paint!), then Woodland Scenic medium brown ballast. I like how it looks over traditional fine gray ballast. My target era and locale is turn of the century up to fifties in the Rockies or similar logging regions, where earth colors are more predominant than granite or basalt. I'm after that dusty off the beaten track look of a logging operation.

I got some of that ballast in a couple of the switch mechanisms - oh dear, that took hours to get everything going again, switches running smoothly and making electrical connection. I even got pretty good with the snap switch springs in the peco turnouts. I thought I lost one, looked for hours on the floor, finally gave up and robbed one out of a new switch in a package. Then low and behold, looked over on the table top and there it was sitting there - they're only about an eighth inch triangle of a spring. So I got the new in the package switch working again too. What a headache though.

A lot of paint got scratched off the tops of the sleepers in the ballasting process. A lot of how-to's say use your finger to smooth it between the rails, but I found that to absolutely shred my finger tips, it wears the paint off the ties, and ballast got stuck up in my fingernails. OUCH. Digging that out with a nail file was no fun. I ended up just using an artist brush to spread out and sweep away excess ballast, then do a more thorough job of cleaning the tie tops after the cement set up. Ended up working out pretty well, although I had to re-do some cementing, and some of it is a little uneven from the IPA and glue washing away the ballast pebbles. It's a BIG job and a very tedious and careful process!! LOL Last I'm going to do a little more weathering by airbrush, mainly just a light grime coat between the rails.

Everything is cleaned up and back online, running perfectly again, ready to start doing some scenery building.


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

Hardshell scenery.
The plaster cloth is nothing short of amazing. I spent quit a lot of time making a foam substructure to support it, without realizing it was likely all quite unnecessary. Two layers and the stuff is like rock!

Started out making the tunnel, then a mountain over it, a plywood base for a timber portal, and finished up yesterday getting all the hardshell base completed on one side of the layout. 
I'm trying to make sense out of the static grass options.


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

Ordered some sculptamold, have a carton of lightweight hydrocal, some rock molds...artist colors for washes and painting, lots of wooldland scenic bags and bottles of ground cover, ordered a static grass applicator (the WS one) and hit up YT for some vids on how to make pine trees. I'm now finding there are so many ongoing projects with this it's hard to decide what to work on next. 

And all of these materials are starting to pile up on my desk. It's like a small hobby shop. LOL


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

Did a deep-dive on YT for making trees since I'll need a small forest of them. Got filter material and various flock, some Aquanet hair spray, and some camo paint, and went to work. It's not as easy as they say. 

Decided to re-letter my new Spectrum FM H16-44 mini trainmaster loco, covered up the 'norfolk and western' with a white beltline, then added Northwest Timber CO, and while I had the airbrush out and the colors, did a quick spray of grimy black and light grime on all of my rolling stock. Sure helps with that bright out of the mold look. 

I got a custom painted GP9 body with Great Northern, and an oem railing set for the old Athearn blue box loco. Also added the details and the rails to the Fairbanks Morse. Some weathering on the old steam locos. 

I got about 7 trees done, gonna take several hours to make enough to cover my sawmill logging side of the layout.


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

Been working on it…


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

Outer perimeter hardboard trim is in, backdrop on the 'lumber side' is done, ground cover started, log pond and spillway roughed in, tunnel completed. 
I'm more or less finishing the one side, experimenting with all the various building techniques. Next to try out the static grass applicator, and add some more ground cover. Need to make some more trees. I wanted to get the backdrop painted before adding any more obstacles in the foreground. Making progress is satisfying. 

This is definitely the fun part.


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## SF Gal (11 mo ago)

Very nice job on the 3D effects of the backdrop. I think the backdrops sure add a bit of realism and can make the scene without breaking the bank. I am eager to see what you are going to do with the other side of your layout.
I really love the idea of keeping it in a small package like you have....it is just a neat idea and have me thinking of keeping my N scale stuff and making a little layout like yours. I do have a habit of wanting to do more than I can so I better finish my Big L layout first....but you sure have my gears a turning...very nice!


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

The other side will be more city and industry. Backdrop of buildings, a small town street, industry for the railroad to serve. With an era of late steam shifting to diesel, so thirties and forties vintage. 

I have a saw mill to go in the left side area of the log pond, on the right a lumber yards, saloon and brothel, and workers cabins. I need to shift to building some structures. 

The log pond gets a log dump from the rail spur, and a log feeder from the pond into the mill, the inlet stream, and outlet/overflow. I'm trying to decide how to model water. I think I'll make a plywood insert for the pond for smooth water, or maybe even a piece of acrylic/plexiglass might work. Have never done this level of scenery building before.


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## BigGRacing (Sep 25, 2020)

It’s looking awesome so far Browneye!


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## afboundguy (Jan 10, 2021)

Browneye said:


> Need to make some more trees.


Welcome to my world 🤣 Love the progress pictures keep it up!


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

Scratch-built bridge and pond outflow...
Went to work on the bridge today...


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## Raege (Jan 7, 2022)

Great build thread loving the photos and seeing your progress. Keep the eye candy coming as you continue the journey


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## Christiaη (2 mo ago)

Awesome layout ! Could you post the real track plan ? Thanks.


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

Christiaη said:


> Awesome layout ! Could you post the real track plan ? Thanks.


This is the track plan from the original creator that was featured in MR magazine:



Here's the plan modified - stretched and flipped to fit my space:



How it looks today...just snapped these:


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

Experimenting with scenic components...the pond outflow here, drain water culvert, and adding greenery.


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## SF Gal (11 mo ago)

I like your photo of the whole layout in the exercise ....I mean train room.
Gives the viewer a overall perspective of it all. 
I could even see you somehow putting it on a slow moving lazy susan so you can sit in one spot and see the whole layout. You'd have to figure out the power connections but well....just my imagination running wild....nevermind. 😊


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

SF Gal said:


> I like your photo of the whole layout in the exercise ....I mean train room.
> Gives the viewer a overall perspective of it all.
> I could even see you somehow putting it on a slow moving lazy susan so you can sit in one spot and see the whole layout. You'd have to figure out the power connections but well....just my imagination running wild....nevermind. 😊


It sure is fun. I've built two layouts many years ago, one in N and a shelf one in HO. The N-scale one was before I moved to California, it was in the basement of our original house. It was too bulky and incomplete to bring it, so it was scrapped. And it was right then that I decided N was too small and that HO was for me. When we first moved to CA I built a very small shelf layout in HO, but never finished it, and then we had another child, and then life got hectic and the room got utilized for other things.

So it's been about thirty years since doing anything with the hobby. I built and flew RC scale aircraft for a bunch of years, and more recently got into 'tiny trucks' - RC rock crawlers. I have a small fortune wrapped up in that stuff. It's kind of been a like a life-long dream to get back into model railroading - I had a box of stuff in the garage for all these years.

For the past dozen years I rode adventure bikes - load up backpack gear on a on and offroad motorcycle and ride multi-day tours - some sixty thousand miles. Sure was fun, but I'm rather too old now, and one more crash would likely put me in a wheelchair or worse. So I quit riding and sold everything. I always said if I got too old to ride I would build an HO model railroad.

We bought this four-bedroom home thirty years ago, raised three children, and now they're all grown and gone. This room was a home gym and office, desk and overhead cabinets where the closet originally was. That part is still there, and I can sit in my office chair and pretty much view the whole layout, at least the main loop around. I'll put train sounds from youtube on the computer speakers and send a full train around the loop and let'er run. I get a lot of satisfaction with that.

I've been putting off modeling water as it seemed daunting. Same for painting a backdrop - I was skeptical that I could actually get something that even looked acceptable. I'm really no artist, can hardly even draw. I have several of books on layout building, one is about scenery from Model Railroader by KATHY MILLAT. I think she explains everything really well and covers all facets of how it's done. Her book is kind of my go-to on this. One of the chapters is on water, she shows a similar culvert with water pouring out, which was particularly apropos.

Over the weekend I was back to the craft store and got some more acrylic paints and high gloss 'mod-podge' and decided to tackle that overflow culvert from my log pond. Now I'm ready to build the pond itself and the inlet stream. I need to put the sawmill kit together that I've had for thirty years now, and figure out where the log dump will go, and the log loader going into the mill. Then build the rest of the pond around that.

The water pouring out is dirty brown - after all it IS a log pond. It's two strips of plastic from the clear cover of a greeting card box, super-glued to the culvert openings and where it meets the landing. I first tried E6000 adhesive to model the running water and that didn't work out so well, it just ran down into a pool at the bottom of the plastic strips. In Kathy's book she shows making a waterfall with silicone sealant, and I had an open tube of 3M marine grade sealant, so I tried that - success! Then painted the back of the strips with some brown paint so it shows thru to the front, and tipped the silicone with some offwhite paint to highlight and give the appearance of running water. The mod-podge is milky until it fully dries, then it's crystal clear and very glossy. I may do another coat just to smooth it out some more.

I think adding the scenery and terrain is the most challenging but most creative and artistic part of model railroading, and I just love a challenge and learning new things. So I like it the best. Running trains is fun, and designing and setting track is too, but the scenery part of it is the most satisfying for me. I have plenty to do here!!

Here's a pic of the book I mentioned earlier. If you don't already have it consider buying it - from model railroader/Kalmbach, or even amazon. Out of all the videos and books on the hobby, this one's my favorite.


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

I thought I would try recording a video while sitting on my desk chair....a fast loop and a slow loop. This loco runs the best of everything I have here. It's a relatively new Spectrum Fairbanks Morse diesel.

Slow loop...






Fast loop...


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## SF Gal (11 mo ago)

I see you....in the mirror. FYI, it you rotate your phone horizonally, you can record videos "full screen"!!!!
Ask me how I know...._ sigh_
Another FYI, using the http link in your browsers address bar will be good enough to paste into the media url box you populate. That media url link is in the tool bar, next to the smiles, 3 dot with the arrow down icon....








.....trying to embed the video and you get the letters around the video box, that this BBcode site doesn't support...no biggie though.

Interesting layout to say the least. 
Referencing books is a great way to get what your looking for IF you like following direction.
I never could stay focused enough to digest it all without just diving in and fudging the whole thing up. 
So I have a lot of failers to fall back on.. _giggle_
Keep up the good work.


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

Okay...I try it again...


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

Why is it so grainy now?


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## Browneye (4 mo ago)

Timber tunnel portal...


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## Raege (Jan 7, 2022)

Great job on the scenery. Really like the coloration and look of your rock facings. Thats a nice scene coming out of the timber framed portal. Two thumbs up 
Thanks for sharing keep the pics coming as you progress


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