# Cuting a building in half



## spoil9 (Dec 24, 2008)

So I'm working on a custom HO scale passenger station for a customer, and I need to cut a built plastic station in half, on an angle. I'm thinking of using a hack-saw to do the cutting but am afraid of how to keep the cut straight since a hack-saw blade is not the most stable blade.

I don't own a bandsaw or I would consider using that. Should I just use the hack-saw and go at it slow and steady?

I understand that to keep a good cut I can mark the cut line in masking tape and cut along the tape, just wondering if anyone has experience with cutting a medium size building in half.

Thanks.


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Is the building already assembled? I use a metal scale (ruler) and an x-acto knife. Score and snap along the cut.

If I'm making an odd shaped building, I cut everything before I assemble it and just make a custom back for it out of sheet styrene.

Here's a farmer's coop I did awhile back - it was a complete building and I sliced and patched it into a background building set at an angle


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Another thought - You could also make your own mitre box out of some taller lumber to act as a guide for the blade.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I recently used a knock off fine multi tool on an o scale car. It cuts straight but melts the plastic. Makes for a mess. I would stick to the hand tools. I think its a time and patience thing. Tooter uses a hacksaw for cutting his cars in half.


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## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

the masking tape is the way to go. it keeps a straight line and helps keep the shavings from screwing you up.

but since the building is built, i my self would use a dremel/other powered saw with a speed control. you can use either a saw or a cutting disk. running it slow will keep it from melting. dont rush it.


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

I would use a very fine-toothed miter saw. The type that finish carpenters use when cutting moldings at crazy angles.
And, as others have stated, cover the cut line with masking tape first.
Lastly, go slow and easy.
Bob


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## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

I agree with Wingnut163. There will be less chance of causing any damage with this method. When you're done you can gently run the half building over some 120 grit sand paper stuck to a flat surface.


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## spoil9 (Dec 24, 2008)

Alright, thanks guys. I'll try my dremel tool later tomorrow and post some before/after pixs.


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

Good luck! I think I would need a little liquid courage before embarking on such a task.


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## spoil9 (Dec 24, 2008)

Thanx. I am a little worried about screwing this up as its for a customer, i need to meet her requirements and BCF Parts standards.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I'm surprised that no one mentioned using a razor saw. Their fine
teeth make a much neater cut. Unless you can slow that Dremel 
down to just a few rpms you will melt your way thru the plastic.

I'd go with one of the manual saws but definitely using the masking tape.

Don


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## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

What ever method you choose, practice on scrap first. You must have a cheap plastic building around that you wouldn't mind making into a half building that you could still use or glue back together.


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## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

with out a speed control it will melt the cut area. i use the dremel speed control plus on the proxxon motor there is another speed control nob. so i have lots of control.

all so, some times it helps to make several passes instead of cutting through and doing the whole cut all at once. this is wear the tape helps too.

and like hutch says it would help to practice.

donR; the fine tooth saw is good. but it dose put strain on the house as you cut, plus its harder to hold still wile cutting.


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## spoil9 (Dec 24, 2008)

Well, its done. Used a good hack-saw and it worked very well. The masking tape helped a lot to keep the cut straight. I was a little off on the base but nothing a little sanding wont fix.
Im out now but will post before/after pix tonight or tomorrow.

Thanks again for all the tips/suggustions.


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

Congrats! :appl:


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## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

I was almost holding my breath waiting to hear how it came out! Now anxiously awaiting the pics!!


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## spoil9 (Dec 24, 2008)

Fire21 said:


> I was almost holding my breath waiting to hear how it came out! Now anxiously awaiting the pics!!


Well wait no more, I'm home again so here are the pictures.

These "before" shots where taken a month ago so I didn't bother retaking them.















These "after" shots where taken about 5min after making the cut and before I did any sanding to smooth out the edge where I cut.






















My customer wants the inside detailed so when visitors look at the station they get a little "bonus" view. The only good news is that she gave me the freedom to choose materials and style. Now I just have to do some research on what old passenger station interiors looked like cause I'm not 100% sure what I want to do.
I'm thinking either a wood or tile floor, some kind of wall covering, maybe a little graffiti on the back wall? 2x4 framing for the overhang, and maybe an old light hanging from the ceiling.

I am of course open to suggestions for interior details and will update this post as I do more work.


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## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

go with wood for floor. they used wood then. 

dont for get benches. a ticket booth, and the heads,(bathrooms).
i would think the walls would be wood as is the out side. the RR did not get fancy back when.


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## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

I went for broke myself and used my 12" miter saw with 60 carbide blade...










Nice work you done there...you used the easy part too. Just detail where the bay window goes with a desk and mail slots for a station master and put a bench or two in the waiting area...


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## spoil9 (Dec 24, 2008)

Thanx guys. Got some sheet styrene that looks like wood planking that i'll paint and use as the floor and walls. If i cant find a good source for a desk and benches i'll have to custom make them outa bass wood.
This was put on the back burner for the night as i worked on other projects. Shredded some foil for a gondola scrap metal load and cut/painted a base for a caboose/storage shed scene. Also trying to plan how to build a turret for a custom T-100 Terminator type model. I love these custom projects, so much fun.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

You asked about 'furnishings' inside the station:

First thing to come to mind. A train schedule board on the wall.

Pot belly stove would not be out of order for that station.

You always had a Western Union window or counter in the
small depots.

And finally, those church pew like benches were usually
to be found in them. People, with luggage, sitting in them.

Don


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## spoil9 (Dec 24, 2008)

Thanks, Don, but this is an abandoned station so i assume the board, stove, and people would be gone.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Actually, an abandoned station could well have the stove, seating and even the board. I agree that the people would probably not be there, except perhaps for a hobo sleeping in out of the rain.


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## spoil9 (Dec 24, 2008)

Ohhh, a hobo. Thats not a bad idea for a bonus. 
Just need to find an hour tonight to sit down and scan ebay and my suppliers for parts. Hate it when life gets in the way of your fun.


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## spoil9 (Dec 24, 2008)

Stole these pictures from another website. I'm posting them here because this is the style interior that I'm going to go with. Planning on building the wall divider for the ticket agent, and maybe even going with this color scheme for the walls as I'm not confident in my ability to properly model a wood wall with styrene and I don't want to buy a bunch of bass wood for the walls.
Found some hobos but nothing I like so I may have to set up the hobo home but not show the hobo himself. Not planning on doing any boards or stoves but I will include a bench or two, or three depending on room and looks. Will also place a work surface in the bay window area for the ticket master.
On the outside I need to add a downspout but the gutters are already modeled so I'll stick with those.


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## spoil9 (Dec 24, 2008)

Progress has been real slow on this one. I finally finished cutting most of the walls to cover the interior panels. Now I need to measure and cut the wall for the divider between the ticket master and the waiting area.
Nothing has been painted yet but I did pick up some bass wood for the horizontal divider on the wall and some angle pieces of styrene for vertical trim pieces in the corners.


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## spoil9 (Dec 24, 2008)

Finished cutting all the interior wall panels, including the ticket master divider wall.
Painted each wall panel a beige color, and painted the horizontal trim pieces dark green.
For the divider I just glued two pieces of styrene together to add a little thickness, but to not overwhelm the small area I have to work with. Once the glue dries I'll sand the edges flush and paint as above.

While paint is drying, I'm going to cut the styrene for the ceiling, and another for an attic floor. Then I need to stain some basswood for "rafters". Just not sure what size I'll go with. Thinking a 2x8 rafter, so I'll use 1/16" x 3/16" because I'm using 1/16" x 1/8" for a 2x4, and I'm using 1/8" x 1/8" for a 6x6. I know these are not true "scale", but it's close enough from the limited supply that I have, and in the end it still looks right.


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## spoil9 (Dec 24, 2008)

So for some reason I've been wide awake since 2am, (it's now 5:30am) and I've been doing some modeling work since I'm awake and don't want to waste this time. Decided to do a quick mockup of the station floor, ceiling, and attic floor for a super quick photo op.
The station floor needs a flat coat then I'm going to do a india ink wash over it. Another flat coat, then maybe some rust spots on the floor where the benches used to be bolted down. Not sure about that yet.

The ceiling just gets a coat of gloss white, then a lite flat coat. I do this because the flat coat over gloss paint has a slightly different effect than flat coat over flat paint. Or at least I think it does. The top of the ceiling, where it would be glued to the rafters, will just get a flat coat, india ink wash, then another flat coat. Same applies to the bottom of the attic floor.

Still need to buy the wood for the rafters which is why they are missing.

The attic floor needs to be painted similar to the station floor except the wood is going to look newer as it doesn't get as much foot traffic. Flat coat, then some weathering chalk for a dusty appearance. 

The underside of the roof will also get a dusty weathering.

And enough babbeling from a guy with only an hour of sleep tonight, here's the pix.

Where you see black will be a wall panel, but they're still drying and I don't want to disturb them.








Yes, a couple wall panels are missing. You can see them laying to the left of the station.








Here are the wall panels. Also need an india ink wash and a flat coat. The green strips are the horizontal trim pieces that will be glued just under the windows around the whole wall.








Comments? Suggestions?


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## spoil9 (Dec 24, 2008)

Any way to model spider webs in HO scale?


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## spoil9 (Dec 24, 2008)

Progress has been real slow since I can only glue one interior wall panel in at a time and the glue takes time to dry.
But I'm finally done glueing everything in. Working on the desk now. This picture is a couple days old now but I've been busy working on orders and trying to keep up with chores around the house.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Looks like your building ran into a buzz saw! 

Nice and clean, ready for an interior.


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