# Home Made Grade Crossings



## DavefromMD (Jul 25, 2013)

I'm looking for ideas on how to make homemade grade crossings. I'm not talking about a permanent layout. I change track layouts occasionally so they need to be able to be taken up and rebuilt easily. Rerailers serve the purpose at some points, but I have others that rerailers can't be used.


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Put balsa strips ( any kind of strips will do) between the rails leaving flange room. Then more strips on the outside of the rails for the approach. From there use whatever you are using for scenery (drywall mud,sculptamold plaster ect) to build a ramp up to the outside strips and down to the road way. Use hot glue to stick the balsa down and the strips will pop right off if you have the move the crossing. The plaster will come off easily with a chisel or a screw driver.


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## Davidfd85 (Jul 4, 2011)

To get a low rise ramp leading to the crossing look at some cabinet shims used to level kitchen cabinets when being installed. They can be trimmed off at the correct height matching the top of the rails. Stick them down with some latex caulk, just a couple of dabs is all you need. Cover with some plaster cloth or I used dry mix joint compound. The premixed shrinks to much and cracks. You can also find several Youtube videos of how to make them also. 

Good luck

David


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Shaygetz did a nice job with using the backside of some roofing shingles.
The planks were made from matchsticks.
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=1829&highlight=roofing+shingles


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Dave those shims work great for all sorts of things on a railroad. I've used them and wood shingles to raise the track off the table when going into a grade. They work great for leveling track too when you push two together from both sides of the track. Pete


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## mikek (Dec 29, 2013)

Dave, do you plan for using lights and gates? The controls for them can be difficult, and I'm working on an above-the-track gate control if you're interested.


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## 2869ral (Dec 15, 2015)

mikek said:


> Dave, do you plan for using lights and gates? The controls for them can be difficult, and I'm working on an above-the-track gate control if you're interested.


Ron here, im interested.


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## mikek (Dec 29, 2013)

I like modifying Bachmann crossings, they are well made and easy to find, cheap. It's surprising how expensive these things can get. It's not too difficult to either find working cross-buck lights or installing LEDs from strip-leds into them. Getting them to alternately flash takes careful placement and wiring of the LEDs.
If you're good with electronics, you can get phototransistors to operate the system. 
Electronics are also necessary to control servos for the gates. To keep it above the deck I plan to mount a servo in a building right by the track with a stiff wire directly to the pivot of the gates. 
All this is a lot of work and electronics, my test crossing has circuit boards in buildings all over the place, controlling the flashing lights, bell, and servos. At least one building for each gate is necessary.
The bell board, piezo or speaker can take up a building all by itself. I am working on a greeting card recorder to play the bell and crossing sounds, maybe the train horn too. The recorder is not too big, has it's own speaker. 
Feel free to PM me on this, I have pics and would like to do this.


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## 2869ral (Dec 15, 2015)

mikek said:


> I like modifying Bachmann crossings, they are well made and easy to find, cheap. It's surprising how expensive these things can get. It's not too difficult to either find working cross-buck lights or installing LEDs from strip-leds into them. Getting them to alternately flash takes careful placement and wiring of the LEDs.
> If you're good with electronics, you can get phototransistors to operate the system.
> Electronics are also necessary to control servos for the gates. To keep it above the deck I plan to mount a servo in a building right by the track with a stiff wire directly to the pivot of the gates.
> All this is a lot of work and electronics, my test crossing has circuit boards in buildings all over the place, controlling the flashing lights, bell, and servos. At least one building for each gate is necessary.
> ...


Definitely interested here, new to this site and don't know how to PM anyone?


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## mikek (Dec 29, 2013)

To send a PM, click on the name of the recipient in one of his posts. "Send a private message" shows up, click that.


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## 2869ral (Dec 15, 2015)

*Scratch built relay box for crossings*







Probably too small to house your circuitry, but i can make them bigger.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

mikek said:


> To send a PM, click on the name of the recipient in one of his posts. "Send a private message" shows up, click that.


I believe that one needs 10 posts before they see the PM option.


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## 2869ral (Dec 15, 2015)

This one was able to send him a PM. :smilie_daumenpos:


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## Davidfd85 (Jul 4, 2011)

Sorry haven't looked at this in a little while. The first time I used the shims I had no gates. The layout I have not I have two gate, one on a single track and one on a double. For the gate I am using the Azatrax system with NJ International gates. 

I'm really happy with the complete set up.


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## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*For RRX, Evergreen styreen works excellantly.*

For a RRX roadway, I have found that styrene sheets cut to the rail width and then placed between the rails works great!
There are several thicknesses though.
And of course the white styrene should be painted someway, somehow.
An airbrush/rattle can also works. Wet sanding may be employed here, if your not satisfied with the end results.You can find these products at your local hobby shop, or hardware store most likely 
Here, again,you will have to experiment until your satisfied with the end result.
Regard's tr1


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## 2869ral (Dec 15, 2015)

Does anyone know how to build an led alternating flashing led circuit? I found some prebuilt circuits that detect using a single photo resistor. I just received more photo resistors and soldered 4 in series and it works perfectly for a double main grade crossing. Now i just need to find or build a cheap wig wag (alternating flashing unit) for it. I will probably use micro servos or a tortoise switch machine to operate the gates. I found these light detecting modules on ebay $3.28ea they have two circuits. The primary is the detecting (by photo resistor) which controls a relay for the secondary circuit. Now the relay can use the same power supply, or a secondary power supply. This entire module measures 1"Wx2"Lx3/4" tall. Im also going to use these modules to control signals. Clear, Approach medium, Approach, and Red block. Possibly even Advance approach, Diverging clear, Diverging approach medium, Diverging approach.


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## mikek (Dec 29, 2013)

I like the Bachmann crossing kits, good strong parts to modify for a working crossing. I use smd leds in the cross-buck, takes a bit of work to get them in, but can be done using plastic filler to hide the wires. This is my favorite flasher circuit, just transistors and such, no chips. Where did you get your PTs? I'd be interested in seeing your schematic.
R1 –	470 Ohm
R2 –	470 Ohm
R3 –	3.9 kOhm
R4 – 3.9 kOhm
P1 –	50 kOhm
C1 – 47 μF / 16V
C2 –	47 μF / 16V
T1 –	BC 547 B
T2 –	BC 547 B
D1 –	LED Standard , 5 mm , red
D2 –	LED Standard , 5 mm , red

This is a simple flashing led circuit with 2 leds and 2 NPN transistors.
It illustrates the behavior of transistors and capacitors and if you use an oscilloscope it will be very easy to determine what happens in this astable multivibrator circuit. It’s state is constantly changing and this change affect the flow of current and voltage and the effect will be visible with the two leds.

The speed of the led flasher may be adjusted with potentiometer P1. Being an astable multivibrator, the circuit has no stable state but oscillates continuously between the two states back and forth. The two transistors T1 and T2 turn and lock each other by turn. The smaller the capacitor value is and the smaller the resistance, the appropriate LED goes out faster, for the benefit of other, who then immediately turns on.

The activation time of T2 is t, a = 0.7 x R1 x C1, the switch-off t off = 0.7 x R2 x C2.
The switch from T1 is t, a = 0.7 x R2 x C2, the off t off = 0.7 x R1 x C1.
The transistors do not necessarily have to be BC547B, you may use BC238 or similar small-signal transistors. It is recommended to always use the equivalent transistors. If one of the transistors is defective, wrong or have a malfunction, so does this to the full functionality of this circuit. One LED lights up and the other is dimmed.

The “two flashing led” circuit is designed for 9 Volts but it works at lower voltages too. In this design we used red leds but by changing the series resistors R1 and R4 you can also use different LED colors.


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## 2869ral (Dec 15, 2015)

WOW! Thanks for that. Can more LEDs be added? Maybe 4-8 of them? I would imagine this will affect the alternating frequency. Now on this module i bought, the white connector you see is for the photo resistor, it came with one. I bought more and soldered 4 in series for two mains, one 12"-16" on the approach to the Xing and another 12"-16" on the exit side. The black connector next to the white one is +\- DC it will operate between 5-14volts i found 12-14 volts works best. The blue connectors on the opposite side are for the secondary side of the relay. You can add a different power source, or use the same power source you used for the module. This relay will opperate gates, bells, lights, etc. The PTs i purchased on ebay from China/Hong Kong i ordered 50 of them. I couldn't find these in the States. Go to ebay and search light detecting modules. The ones i bought have the photo resistor extension cord.


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## mikek (Dec 29, 2013)

That board looks really good, nice and small. How can I get one? I put lots of LEDs on my crossing, three on each arm, two on the crossbucks, so that makes for ten LEDs on the one circuit, they flash fine. My board doesn't have a pot, I got lucky with the rate, and am pretty sure I run it on 12 volts, it's a tough circuit. All the parts are cheap. I try to stay away from chips and optoisolators, they are delicate little flowers. Finished boards seem better, I think they have protection built in to save them from us bunglers.


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## 2869ral (Dec 15, 2015)

These are the ones i bought. They don't have anymore right now. I deplinished stock from 2 vendors. Im sure they will get more soon. This one was the cheapest. And $2.00 shipping on one or twenty. PM me your address, and i will send you a couple to play with when i get them. Im thinking within the week i should have some more. The xtra photo resistors i purchased are 5mm part #GL5537. Also have you thought about useing fiber optics for the lights on the arms? Im thinking about trying that. I don't have a layout right now, but i think i will build an 8' module so i can experiment on this Xing. Don't hesitate to call me if you want, im a conductor/engineer on the BNSF railroad, so if i don answer im on a train just leave a mess. I left you my cell # in a PM a couple weeks ago. Thanks Ron


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## 2869ral (Dec 15, 2015)

I just found this wiring diagram for the module.


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## mikek (Dec 29, 2013)

Hopefully schematics will come with the module. I'm presuming the screw terminals are for the controlled circuit, probably NO and NC. Nice. Great price!


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## 2869ral (Dec 15, 2015)

No schematics, just the one i posted above. WOW Mike, i just noticed something with the schematic above and a schematic i found on the back of the module. It looks like the center terminal is + and the bottom terminal is NC and the top terminal is NO, so im think this might solve the problem with running a servo or switch machine in both directions.


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## 2869ral (Dec 15, 2015)

I couldn't figure out what that 3rd terminal was for, its the NC. lol, been a long day!


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## 2869ral (Dec 15, 2015)

I just found these as well, they are similar but i know the other ones work. These are cheaper, i ordered a couple to see how they work.


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## mikek (Dec 29, 2013)

These are pics of my work on crossings. They work, but are bulky. lots of stuff below deck. The one with the blue tape is my first all-above-the table bashes. Electronics got too complicated, and controlling the gates with strings isn't easy, either. I'm going with direct-drive next.


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## 2869ral (Dec 15, 2015)

Very nice Mike, looks like i need to build a module (test bench) and start experimenting too. Thats going to have to wait for a couple days, looks like I'm about to get called to play with the real thing.


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## mikek (Dec 29, 2013)

I tidied up the cross-buck and then put filler on it. When dry, I'll file the filler smooth. It lights up fine. I started work on the servo controlled arm, the thin wire will hardly show after a little house is put over the servo. Now comes the hard part, controlling the servos.


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## 2869ral (Dec 15, 2015)

Cool, I'm going to build my own Xing gates. Im going to use brass and styrene. I know, it sounds good, we will see what happens. I will try to do this in the next week or so. I will post some pics as i go.


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## mjrfd99 (Jan 5, 2016)

I use strips of balsa wood and usually put a Kadee uncouple magnet in there also.
The shingles look great on the approach! Great idea!!
I need to add many lights and some crossings, glad I joined for all the great info!!


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## mikek (Dec 29, 2013)

I really like the Bachmann accessories kit, it supplies gates and crossbucks, usually available on E-bay, may be available directly from Bachmann. Considering the crossbucks have text on them, and the light fixture is not easy to build from scratch. Really nice ones are available , but they are real expensive. 
I'm going to check my files for servo control, *we may need advice from any members that are proficient in electronics, or know of control modules that will slow servos down and control them from the signals from the PT module we are using.*


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## 2869ral (Dec 15, 2015)

Well i still need to finish painting and installing LEDs, but here is my scratch built crossing gate. Took about 2 hours. I should be able to cut that time down once i get going.


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## 2869ral (Dec 15, 2015)

Another pic, not sure how to attach more than 1 pic in each post.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

I haven't worked with servos, however for anyone who has worked with arduino computers before, there may be a fairly cheap solution...

There is a specific chip called an ATtiny85. You can pick these up on ebay for about a dollar, which come with a usb port for programming, and have five I/O pins. The L293D motor driver chip can be found for around 40 cents each in packs of five. The last piece would be a stepper motor from an old 3.5" floppy drive -- these are usually about 1/2" diameter and have a shaft with a screw thread.

The basic idea is that you use one I/O pin to signal when a train is in the crossing area, and the other four pins to control the stepper motor. Speed can be handled in the programming, but you would need to tie together all of your crossing gates to work off the single motor. If you already have a 5v source available on your layout, and are able to find floppy drives being thrown out (people are always throwing away old computers), you could set up each crossing for a buck and a half. The only difficulty in this is taking an evening or two to learn how to install the programming software on your computer, and finding pre-written example code for driving a 4-pole stepper motor.

[EDIT] It just occurred to me to look, but you can find bulk bags of the floppy stepper motors on ebay. Some of the better buy-it-now deals will get you the motors for around 75 cents each, which puts the total cost of this project per crossing at $2.25. Also I'm betting the exact same setup could be used to control turnouts.


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## mikek (Dec 29, 2013)

Thanks, Shdwdrgn, for the info. I'm hoping to keep this project as simple as possible, using easy-to-find components. If I come across a floppy drive, I'll inspect the motor. I'm using RC servos right now because they are cheap, come with different 'horns' to attach to, and have mounting tabs. The problem with them is keeping the controller small, and slowing the servo down to a realistic gate speed. I have found only one supplier capable of this so far, Tony Williams, in the 'Looking for Some Advice' thread.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Yeah I've been reading that thread as well, which brought me back to this one this morning with the idea of the floppy steppers. I pulled out the motors I have, and found the standard 3.5" floppy motor is about 9/16" diameter (with a flange on one end that is 3/4" dia.). However there is an even smaller one used in laptop drives (not very common though) which is 3/8" dia. with a 1/2" flange. They all use the same 4-pin configuration though, and while I'm waiting on new dc regulators to arrive in the mail I think I'll go ahead and try to wire one up (if I get it working I'll share the code and schematic). It also occurred to me that if I can find a better chip to drive the stepper motor, I should only need two of the I/O lines, and I can use the other two to directly drive a dual red-flashing signal.


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## mikek (Dec 29, 2013)

That actually sounds good! I want to keep everything as small and simple as possible, so let me know how it goes for you. Thanks, Mike


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## 2869ral (Dec 15, 2015)

mikek, here is the other module i purchased. Its a tiny bit bigger and built differently, but works just as well and its cheaper. I also think it has a built in feature to protect it from accidental reverse polarity, YES I DID IT AGAIN, but it didn't fry this time.


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## 2869ral (Dec 15, 2015)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261850569797?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


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## 2869ral (Dec 15, 2015)

Here is a link for the photo resistors.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261525901234?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


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## mikek (Dec 29, 2013)

Thanks to the module from 2869Ral I have been finally able to make a working above-the-table crossing. It uses Photoresistors. Currently I'm mixing 12 and 5 volt boards, but hope to change it all to 5 volt, the same as the servos. The video doesn't pick up the bell sound. The bell is in the little yellow booth, the whistle recorder is not connected, it's 3 volts. I hope they make a 7803.
I would like opinions from the members, as to whether I should offer this crossing as a completed unit or in kit form? I'd be curious to see how many modelers are interested in assembling circuit boards. Some components can be upgraded, like better flashing lights, maybe even better gates. I think eventually I'll figure out how to slow down the servos for a more realistic gate action.
[URL="[/URL]


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

To step your voltage from 5v to 3v, you don't need anything special, but there are options. Quick and simple, just use a pair of resistors where one is smaller than the other, or even a potentiometer to dial it in to what you need. Alternatively, many diodes will drop the voltage somewhat and a couple in line could bring your voltage down. And finally, there are a number of dc-dc converters on ebay that will drop a 5v signal to exactly 3.3v.


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## SBRacing (Mar 11, 2015)

I know you said you reconfigure layouts but here is an idea. I used balsa wood and filled in the gaps with W.S. Foam Putty. While the foam was still wet and workable I used some old trucks with large wheels to carve a path for the flange. Once done carve and excess putty that you desire. Take some more wood and now make the grade section, just glue and sand. Finally, its ready for paint, This can be made permanently for that section of track. You can remove that section and place it any where but it is permanent fixed to the track.
Here are links to pics.

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55706&d=1433900366

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55642&d=1433888406


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## mikek (Dec 29, 2013)

Update for March, '16. Got it all together on one board. Lites, gates, and a cool recorder for the horn sequence. It operates off phototransistors between the rails, a homemade circuit board for the sensors and relay to operate it all through a nice board from Tony Williams in the UK, at 6V6.co.uk. My video won't upload here or to Photobucket, but if anyone's interested I can e-mail it.


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