# Kato caboose requires advanced gluing skills and fluent Japanese?



## Blue North (12 mo ago)

I just received Kato caboose 1-813 YO 5000. I thought I was getting the complete caboose described on the retailer site. But there are many tiny parts to attach. The instructions are in Japanese. The diagrams are clear, but am I supposed to cut the parts off the plastic with an Xacto knife and then file the rough ends? Then glue the tiny pieces and even tinier decals? There are little holes in the body, but I tried one grab bar (#6) and there was no way it was sticking into the holes. I wrote to Kato and to the retailer to ask if there are directions in English available, but I'm wondering if this is what I should expect from Kato orders in the future.

I know that sometimes delicate parts are wrapped separately, but this seems like 2+ hours of work and the purchase of special tools, and I may not be skilled enough to do it. Should they have called this a kit? It's the first of about 20 new loco/car orders I've made that came in like this, and the first Kato.


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## Thelic (Jan 10, 2018)

Rather than a hobby knife consider a sprue cutter if you are going to do a few of these. Cut them as close as you can without damage to the part then run what's left over an emery board. I actually stole my wife's nail files and polishers for this.

That looks like a Japanese prototype which will come from Kato Japan, not Kato USA. Most of the USA stuff is already assembled and decaled, I can't speak for the Japanese stuff.


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## Blue North (12 mo ago)

Thelic said:


> Rather than a hobby knife consider a sprue cutter if you are going to do a few of these. Cut them as close as you can without damage to the part then run what's left over an emery board. I actually stole my wife's nail files and polishers for this.
> 
> That looks like a Japanese prototype which will come from Kato Japan, not Kato USA. Most of the USA stuff is already assembled and decaled, I can't speak for the Japanese stuff.


Thanks. It's a really cool caboose, with working tail lights, so I'm determined to do this. The grab rails and so forth have to be glued? I'm more a collector than a modeler, but I'll ask my hobby store guy what to do.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

So I'm guessing you bought this on eBay or similar, rather than a retail store which would most likely carry the American version.

Unfortunately, adding details to models requires a little skill, some dexterity and patience, and a lot of time. Assuming you care what the final product looks like, of course.

You might be able to get through the project without any specialty tools, they certainly help. It's kind of amazing how much is actually available. Just browse through the MicroMark catalog or visit their website and you'll see what I mean.

This would be my "bare essentials" list for doing a good job on something like that caboose:
-- Hobby knife with a supply of #11 blades (never hesitate to use a fresh one). Get one with a padded handle, if you can.
-- Self-healing cutting mat, unless you have a work surface you don't mind nicks and cuts in.
-- sprue cutters (they look like wire cutters) for larger parts and nippers (they look like tweezers) for the delicate ones.
-- a set of fine Jeweler's files, in several shapes.
-- a needle applicator for adhesives (although you can use a toothpick).
-- several pairs of tweezers, including straight and angled ends. I also like to have some cross-locking ones, because they double as clamps.
-- A pin vise / microdrill and drill bits in various sizes from #60 to # 80. You will need these to make the small holes that most of your detail parts will be mounted in.
-- a miniature screwdriver set (maybe not for detailing, but you'll need it if you have to open one up).
-- Clamps. Do you actually need them? Maybe not, but if you do, you'll want one handy. The woodworkers motto is "you can never have too many clamps". I follow that in modeling too. I'd get several, in a few different configurations.

I think that would cover the basics. I'm sure some others will chime in with with few adds..

A few other things: 

Adhesives: styrene (model) cement works great for bonding two pieces of styrene, but it is useless on any other material, including other plastics. CA (cyanoacrylate or super glue) is a good general purpose adhesive; I use 2 kinds, thin and gel. I also use 5 minute epoxy for poorly fitting parts.

Light and magnification: personally, I wouldn't ever work without it. You can get desktop solutions, or the tried and true Optivisor, but I like these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T4KPYN2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Their only disadvantage is that they don't work over eyeglasses (they take the place of reading glasses, however).

And yes, you need to drill holes and mount those little grab irons. Sometimes the model has a starter hole or dimple, sometimes not. Drill the hole, insert a tiny drop of glue, then insert the part.

Good luck!


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## Blue North (12 mo ago)

CTValleyRR said:


> So I'm guessing you bought this on eBay or similar, rather than a retail store which would most likely carry the American version.
> ......
> 
> Good luck!


Thank you!! All incredibly helpful. I will do it. I have half that stuff anyway (as an artist).
I bought the Kato from a wonderful online "mom & pop" retailer. They send gummy treats with their trains.
In the same shipment I got a beautiful blue Walthers caboose with a tin roof and many great details, 100% assembled.


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

Welcome to the hobby! Lol 
I tried installing kato grab irons on my SD38-2. Not happening with them plastic ones. I’ll use metal wire ones.

A trick to using xactos with sprue parts. Use a piece of masking tape to keep the needed part from launching to god knows where. Not as easy as sprue cutters but cheaper in the mean time. 
Opening up the holes a bit with a pointed xacto and twisting it around to ease the sharpedge of the hole helps. Just dont slip & scratch the car body.


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