# Fragile steam



## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

Yesterday I bought a new steam loco from my local hobby shop. After running it twice with only a small derailment, not falling or anything, I had trouble keeping it on the track. Then I noticed a small metal piece on the tracks that could only be part of this new loco. After studying the loco, I found it was a linkage pin that connects the tender. The hole that the pin came out of was cracked in 2 places.

I'm going to bring it back today and try to get my money back or another loco. Now I'm afraid to buy another steam engine and will probably go diesel even though I prefer steam. I really enjoyed this loco while it was working. Are they typically built this fragile?

I am experiencing serious buyers remorse.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Hutch said:


> Yesterday I bought a new steam loco from my local hobby shop. After running it twice with only a small derailment, not falling or anything, I had trouble keeping it on the track. Then I noticed a small metal piece on the tracks that could only be part of this new loco. After studying the loco, I found it was a linkage pin that connects the tender. The hole that the pin came out of was cracked in 2 places.
> 
> I'm going to bring it back today and try to get my money back or another loco. Now I'm afraid to buy another steam engine and will probably go diesel even though I prefer steam. I really enjoyed this loco while it was working. Are they typically built this fragile?
> 
> I am experiencing serious buyers remorse.



All depends on what you bought?
You forgot to mention what scale it is and what exactly did you buy?

Could it have broke because when you were experiencing problems "keeping it on the track" because the pin was dragging? Then it finally broke from dragging?

What scale and what manufacturer was it?


----------



## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

It's a Bachmann HO ALCO 2-6-0.



> Could it have broke because when you were experiencing problems "keeping it on the track" because the pin was dragging? Then it finally broke from dragging?


This seems likely but why the pin was dragging in the first place is my next question. I think it's a poor design or poor assembly.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Hutch said:


> It's a Bachmann HO ALCO 2-6-0.
> 
> 
> 
> This seems likely but why the pin was dragging in the first place is my next question. I think it's a poor design or poor assembly.


It very well could be. What line of Bachmann is it?

A copy and paste,
Bachmann has produced model trains in three distinct categories. Each of these categories is different in both quality and price. These three categories are: 

Original Bachmann: These are low quality locomotives that are worth maybe $30 at the most. I would consider these to be toys.
Bachmann Plus: This was Bachmann's mid-range line of locomotives. Their quality is better than the original Bachmann line but are not worth more than around $80.
Spectrum: This series was introduced in the 1980s and is of high quality.
 *Advantages*

*Disadvantages*



Historically, the Bachmann line of steam locomotives has not been known for its workmanship. Some would argue that the serious modeler should approach these locomotives with caution.


Read the whole thing?

http://www.steamlocomotive.com/model/HO-steam.php

*
  *


----------



## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

I beleive it's the standard line. I paid 146 for it.


----------



## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

On the bright side, Bachmann has a very good warranty policy. As an aside, steam models do require a good deal more attention and maintenance, a case where art imitates life and what led to their downfall in real life, and eventually on more than a few modeler's layouts.


----------



## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

Well, I only got 20 minutes tops of running time. I don't think I should have to deal with the warranty. It's too bad because I really really loved the look and the sound was awesome. I was surprised the sound worked at all on DC but it was truly lifelike. Raise the throttle a little and it would start the engine sounds. A little more and the whistle would toot and the train would start moving with the choo choo increasing with speed. Just what I wanted. I'm afraid I won't like the diesels as much.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Hutch said:


> Well, I only got 20 minutes tops of running time. I don't think I should have to deal with the warranty. It's too bad because I really really loved the look and the sound was awesome. I was surprised the sound worked at all on DC but it was truly lifelike. Raise the throttle a little and it would start the engine sounds. A little more and the whistle would toot and the train would start moving with the choo choo increasing with speed. Just what I wanted. I'm afraid I won't like the diesels as much.


 
Maybe you had a defective locomotive?

Try another and watch the pin?


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

This can happen to any locomotive. I had my $800 Legacy PRR Duplex T1 pole vault off the track when a rod screw came out. The locomotive stuck the rod into the table and flopped the whole consist on it's side! I was fortunate it was not next to an edge and didn't land on the concrete floor, the only damage was to it's pride. I did find the screw and now they're all in with Loctite.


----------



## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Where is T-man when you need him.
Sounds like a minor problem that can be fixed with a drop of epoxy.
Mix the epoxy and put a drop in the hole and then insert the pin, wait for it to set compleately then your back in business.
You said that it was a standard Bachmann, but then you said it had sound? That sounds like the Plus line or the Spectrum line to me? I didn't think that the standard line came with sound.


----------



## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

The hobby shop gave me a new loco and I was told not to worry, things break.:thumbsup: So, here's a picture of the pin that came loose.









Looks to be pressed in and it hangs pretty low. Because of this, I decided to rip up my track and start fresh. I also decided against foam and roadbed for now so I can be sure all the track and turnouts are solidly laid. I also bought some more flex track to replace the flea market brass track and the snap track from the train set. I also bought some re-railers and a portable re-railer for putting the trains on the track.

I'm learning


----------



## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Sounds great, except for the part ditching the road bed.
You will find out that without roadbed it will be rather loud.


----------



## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

I will eventually put the road.bed in. But it will be cork instead of foam.


----------



## mtoney (Oct 6, 2012)

Check into a product called Homasote, usualy sold in 4x8 sheets at better lumber/home improvement stores like Menards or Home Depot. Its made of compressed paper and is excellent for laying track to with nothing more than spikes and a pair of needle nose plyers. Its also good for absorbing sound. Nothing wrong with using foam for an underlayment, I will be doing this. But I have found you need to use long straight pins to hold track to it with any kind of security. Homasote is much better, then use the foam to build up around the track for tunnels ect. I totaly understand the fragile part of new steamers, I get to fix them all the time for the LHS I do repair work for. I refuse to buy new plastic steam. For roughly what you paid for that one, I got this old PFM/United brass one that with just a little TLC, mostly a clean and regreasing, runs almost as nice as a new one. Yet it was made in the early 60's. With a remotor using a can motor over the Pittman open frame, it would run almost silent. It does run smooth but the open sided motor makes more noise than the fully enclosed can motors. I could even DCC this with the original motor if I so desire, it runs that good. Its much more heavily built than the plastic stuff. If your serious about steam, I can highly recommend you look into one of the PFM/United models. PFM was the importer, stands for Pacific Fast Mail. United was the builder in Japan. They made models by the thousands so many of the common ones are affordable. The ATSF 2-8-0 is the most common, runs excellent, handles 18" radius curves easily and normaly sells from $150 to 200 for an unpainted and sometimes you will find one painted for that. PFM/United models came unpainted and unlighted, it was up to the modeler to do this or have it done. I do this work as well as remotor, dcc/sound installs ect. Once you get your first piece of brass and have it running nice on the layout, you will be hooked!! Mike


----------



## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

I'll be on the lookout for those in the future. Right now I need to get my system together, building DCC and CBUS kits from the MERG site to control everything. Then get the track running smooth, build some scenery and_ then_ start buying more trains.


----------



## AmericanRailfan (Feb 16, 2013)

Hutch said:


> Well, I only got 20 minutes tops of running time. I don't think I should have to deal with the warranty. It's too bad because I really really loved the look and the sound was awesome. I was surprised the sound worked at all on DC but it was truly lifelike. Raise the throttle a little and it would start the engine sounds. A little more and the whistle would toot and the train would start moving with the choo choo increasing with speed. Just what I wanted. I'm afraid I won't like the diesels as much.



I have never run a steam locomotive; I have always had diesel. However, I am always suspect of anything Bachman, aside from structures and layout features. I would see about getting your money back or seeing if you can exchange it for a better brand. Usually, if you get a better brand, you will get all the features you're looking for without the worry of everything coming apart. 

Just a thought.


----------

