# Protectin' your stuff.



## PanelDeland (Oct 3, 2015)

I have two parts to this question. 

First, I'm assuming many belong to clubs and carry a train or at least locos to their meetings or to run them. I'm thinking the best way to carry would be in original packaging packed in the aluminum cases like a briefcase or small tool kit. Any better options?


Second, though I'm a newby, I can see getting a great deal of money tied up in the hobby. I'm sure that some of the layouts and locos I see on here present a sizeable investment. If you haven't itemized for ins. purposes, should you on the hobby stuff, or is it just better to increase the contents coverage on your home? I live in NC and with the problems in SC the last week or two, I'm thinking I need to up the coverage on my tools(I used to have a lot at work but they now reside in my garage) and the investment is a good portion of life spent fixing things and buying the tools to do so. I'm thinking I might get carried away(or not) with train stuff and suddenly realize I have a lot of money in stuff that isn't covered.

As an aside to this discussion, I do have flood ins. I didn't once and it was quite a while to get the damage cleaned up and repaired on top of costing me OOP. If you don't have flood ins. check into it, mine cost about $300 a year in Atlanta and I had the backwash from 3 Hurriblecanes go thru in a week. Payout was $28,000 to repair, waterproof and clean up the mess. Our home was not in a flood area but water saturating the ground caused the flooding in my walk out basement. I won't be without it again.


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## Gansett (Apr 8, 2011)

I made cases for my 35mm stuff way back when I was going some photo work. Hard sided brief cases and foam cut to the sizes needed.
Of course there are cases commercial available today for both trains and cameras IIRC

Yes you can end up with a sizable dollar amount invested. We do have a member here who doesn't care for insurance. I do wonder if the tune will change if he ever has a sizable loss as you've experienced. 

I had my tools covered under a separate policy when I used them for work. Now they are covered under a separate rider as is my wife's jewelry. 

Starting new I'd keep track of purchases and update a separate insurance rider as needed. Eliminate any potential problems right from the start.


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

There was a thread a few months ago on OGR forum about what people use to transport their trains to club events. Replies included everything from cardboard cases made especially for trains to custom made wood cases. Some of the same folks that responded to that thread are now on MTF and will probably post here. I made some mahogany transport cases recently for a few of my trains, but they are heavy, especially with trains loaded. I only use them to transport from my office to the train room.

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=45218&highlight=mahogany

As far as the insurance / inventory question, it depends on your policy and how valuable your trains are (individual pieces and the whole collection). I asked my agent to look into if I should itemize. In PA, there are different types of policies (on some you can itemize valuables; on others you just have general coverage for contents). In my case it didn’t make sense to itemize (and get a more expensive policy), because only individual items worth over $500 needed to be itemized and I don’t have any that are that valuable. What was stressed was to make sure the contents coverage was adequate and to have proof (photos, receipts, inventory) of the trains. Best to talk to your agent about it as your collection grows.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

I don't go to club meets so can't help with that.

I looked into insurance. Not sure why. It just isn't worth the trouble, even if its not expensive. You need lists and appraisals, etc. . My trains won't get stolen (too complicated to go into, but never . . . ) and if they were destroyed by fire, storm, etc., I'd have much bigger problems and they just would not matter. And besides, if they are taken/destroyed, so be it . . . I will start over -- and have fun doing it. 

My advice on insurance, etc. is: assume every toy train item you acquire has no re-sale value at all, and that its only value is the fun you get playing with it today.

I know it sounds corny, but its much more enjoyable that way.


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## PanelDeland (Oct 3, 2015)

Lee Willis, I agree on the enjoyment part and really prefer everything that way but was updating for my tool collection and the thought came up. I doubt I will ever have an investment of sizeable proportion but I have a truck I gave $700 for that is worth almost $10,000 and I haven't painted or done the interior. I bought that truck to "play" with. It's amazing how much you can invest in even an inexpensive hobby over a few years.


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## Prewar Pappy (Jul 26, 2015)

*Protect Your Trains? You Darn Well Better!*

Insurance is cheap and easy to get through TCA. A Basic Policy can cost less than $125.00 per year. Every train that I own is vintage prewar 1916-1934 Lionel. And I own a bunch. I have 35 boxed Std Gauge sets for starters. I have more than I care to list.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

PanelDeland said:


> Lee Willis, I agree on the enjoyment part and really prefer everything that way but was updating for my tool collection and the thought came up. I doubt I will ever have an investment of sizeable proportion but I have a truck I gave $700 for that is worth almost $10,000 and I haven't painted or done the interior. I bought that truck to "play" with. It's amazing how much you can invest in even an inexpensive hobby over a few years.


I understand about the truck, and I do similarly. I own three high-end Italian sports cars that are important to me far beyond their usefulness (or not) as daily drivers, and I insure them, the newer one on my normal auto insurance policy and the older ones through a classic car insurance company that advertises in Hemmings. 

But I don't insure my trains, even though I have probably spent something like what one of those cars cost on my trains over the years. This inconsistency is deliberate, and mostly due to the difference in perceived risk and value. I drive my sports cars on the street, and the risk that they are damaged/stolen/ruined in a flood/fire is about like that for any other car. They have a substantial market value: the two older ones are probably worth more than I paid for them, although i did not buy them as an investment and I've poured a lot of money into maintenance over the years. 

By contrast, I estimate the true market value of my trains at about 20% of what I paid, at best: most are post-2005 models, which I bought new at perhaps slightly discounts. There is not much risk: none that they would be stolen, and none that a flood (or at least a flood I survive) would destroy them. A fire that burned down the entire house, or a hurricane or tornado that took the roof off, might destroy them. But I rate that is unlikely. So I don't insure them. 

Also, a big part is this: My son is an insurance-lawsuit attorney, and so I know how the vast majority of these insurance companies and policies work. When you file a claim they offer much less than you think you should get - much less. If you want what you deserve, they make you sue them for it. You do end up, years later, with most of what you deserve, but you go through a lot of unpleasantness. the insurance companies do this because overall, more people give up than don't, and they make more $$$ on it.


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## PanelDeland (Oct 3, 2015)

Lee, that's exactly why I use "Agreed Value" policies on most of my "Stuff" meaning the things that are not normal daily use like my home and cars other than the truck. Many of those specialty car companies provide "agreed Value" coverage on many things such as boats, your classic Italian rides, street rods, and other collectables. As far as newer stuff like your trains, I just adjust my "contents" coverage on my standard policy. I also do a review of my coverage every year or so for my own feeling of security.


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## Gansett (Apr 8, 2011)

Lee Willis said:


> Also, a big part is this: My son is an insurance-lawsuit attorney, and so I know how the vast majority of these insurance companies and policies work. When you file a claim they offer much less than you think you should get - much less. If you want what you deserve, they make you sue them for it. You do end up, years later, with most of what you deserve, but you go through a lot of unpleasantness. the insurance companies do this because overall, more people give up than don't, and they make more $$$ on it.


The term associated with that practice is ''low-balling''. Not a big problem in property loss claims as opposed to claims involving injury. Sort of apples and oranges. I can find a value for your damaged property without much of a problem. It's somewhat more difficult to place a value on a broken bone.

In my state it's illegal to low-ball and there are penalties. You can have a honest difference of opinion as to the extent and value of the loss but intentionally low balling is not a practice endorsed by the industry and is frowned upon by the state insurance departments.


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## Shadow001 (Dec 15, 2016)

I was just going to ask, if anyone had insurance. great site, it is amazing what you can find on here.


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## Togatown (Nov 29, 2013)

As far insurance goes. I added my trains onto my existing Personal Articles policy that has our jewelry, watches, etc on it. It offers all risk coverage for $ 1.00 per $ 100 of collectible coverage, and has no deductible. I just take photos of the trains and reference the Greenberg guide to trains for valuation, and it is all good with my company. 
A standalone policy for trains, with an agreed upon value of $ 5000 would cost only $ 50 per year.


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## Shadow001 (Dec 15, 2016)

I will definitely check it out when our house policy come due. I don't have much to insure right now anyway. Thanks.


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## daschnoz (Dec 12, 2016)

As for travel cases:
I think anything with a hard shell and internal padding should be fine. The value of your train parts will determine the quality of the case you buy. You can get anything from a $10 "only slightly better than a cardboard box" case to a $200 all but bullet proof and made in the USA case from Pelican.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I have four of these, a club member came up with a ton of them and we all got a few. They are 26" x 11" x 10" and built to last. I foam lined it and I use old towels to wrap the stuff when I carry it.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Carrying cases*



PanelDeland said:


> I have two parts to this question.
> 
> First, I'm assuming many belong to clubs and carry a train or at least locos to their meetings or to run them. I'm thinking the best way to carry would be in original packaging packed in the aluminum cases like a briefcase or small tool kit. Any better options?
> 
> ...


 PanelDeland;

Many N-scale/ Z-scale modelers have used plastic fishing tackle boxes to haul trains. The divisions are the right size for N-scale. Foam rubber scraps at each end of a car, protect the couplers.
For HO-scale, you might try the plastic storage boxes, made by Stanley tools, and available at Home Depot. They have larger compartments and the dividing walls between are movable. 
O-scale and larger I don't know what to suggest other than a custom box, as already mentioned. What scale are you planning to store/ transport?

Regards;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## mjrfd99 (Jan 5, 2016)

M/c- Firearm and train collections insured. 
Houses alarmed. NJ and Fl have a major burglary problems due to opiates.


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## GNfan (Jun 3, 2016)

*Storage solutions*

I use stackable storage boxes from "Sterlite" (part# 14138606) to store my n-scale rolling stock in their original cases. There are three compartments that lock together, and a lid with a handle; and more compartments can be added. One compartment has a removable insert for odds-and-ends. I got mine at Big Lots, and they have them at Amazon.com. I would wrap a strap around it and under the handle to actually transport them. As to why I store my trains - I have to share my right-of-way with "Catzilla"


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