# New Carpet Layout



## igmuska (Nov 21, 2009)

As I had to take on a new job, I had to put down my Croxton Terminal layout for a bit and instead chose to get a carpet layout.
This layout uses Atlas True Track 24" radius curves exclusively as I bought several new locomotives that wouldn't run properly on my 18" radius curves in my Croxton Terminal. The locomotives would run by themselves with no problems but the moment I drag rolling stock through the SnapTrack Turnouts, the locomotives would throw the cars off the track.
The offending locomotive is an Athearn SD40-2 BNSF Heritage I. I didn't try the other locomotive I bought, a Kato SD40-2 BNSF Swoosh Scheme. I also got a Athearn C44-9W, BNSF Swoosh scheme.
My main complaint about my new carpet layout is that I had to add 4 sections of True Track re-railers at the curve exits; the carpet was too lumpy and the front trucks would derail, other than that, happy railroading.

Hosted on Fotki


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## igmuska (Nov 21, 2009)

Although I think my camera is getting ready to kaput from one too many falls, the following are the locomotives for my Carpet Layout's 24" radius curves.
Hopefully by next month I'll have a DCC setup for this layout as well as a couple of more BN SD40-2 (MY LHS stocked only BNSF as they are current production models with BN being out of production). I feel like I'm being forced to go with more modern diesels than on the 80's types; but what would the world be without Madonna's Like A Virgin and the Culture Club's Do You Want to Hurt Me (LOL)?

*Athearn C44-9W BNSF*









*Kato EMD SD40-2 Mid Production BNSF*









*Athearn SD40-2 BNSF Heritage I*


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## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

Great stuff...just don't forget those high end locos love to suck up carpet fibers into their gears.


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## Komodo (Jun 28, 2010)

nice, i like the bnsf dash 9


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## igmuska (Nov 21, 2009)

The Athearns got quieter after a couple of hours of straight running while the Kato still has a growling sound. The Athearn Dash 9 and SD40-2 sound like whispers, Kato grrrrrrrrrrrrr.
I've read somewhere that DCC will quiet the Kato's growling?


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## igmuska (Nov 21, 2009)

*More locomotives*

In addition to those locomotives I listed earlier, I added more to my growing Burlington Northern empire three locomotives: SD45 BN #6430 "Hustle Muscle"; SD40-2 BN #8090; and SD40-2 BN #8097.


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## Komodo (Jun 28, 2010)

cool vid.


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## igmuska (Nov 21, 2009)

*BN means coal*

Thx Komodo.
Today while shopping for some 36" wheels sets for my new (old(?)) BN Bethgons, I came across a FRED/EOT and had to get it before someone else did.
Odd thing about the gons was that my first set bought on eBay came with 36" wheels but had for couplers some cheesy non-operating plastic hooks and hook horns at each end; it also didn't come with coal loads.






The second eBay set of gons were lacking even more than my first set; all hookhorns, plastic 33" wheelsets and no coal loads. The first set had supports in the tub, preventing the loads from falling in as is the case with my second set. I remedied the issue by plasti-soling some sprue waste to hold up the loads.

Then I saw the FRED/EOT


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

IGM,

Neat FRED. Is that powered right off of the rails? What happens to the blinky light when you throttle down and/or stop the train?

Just curious,

TJ


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## igmuska (Nov 21, 2009)

*FRED is DEAD*

Evidently FRED only likes DCC, not DC; probably burnt out the LED


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

R.i.p., FRED ... R.i.p.


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## igmuska (Nov 21, 2009)

I think my malfunctioning Kato took out FRED...


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

It was a "hit" ... a targetted kill ... Jason Bourne style.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

May be a bad connection. If it blinks it operates at 5 volts. Throttle won't make a difference since the motor runs on 8 volts. A stop would do it though.A commercial piece should work right off the rail. Where is this video?


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## igmuska (Nov 21, 2009)

T-Man said:


> May be a bad connection. If it blinks it operates at 5 volts. Throttle won't make a difference since the motor runs on 8 volts. A stop would do it though.A commercial piece should work right off the rail. Where is this video?


The Kato thread with Youtube showing the problem.
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=4617


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## igmuska (Nov 21, 2009)

I had a slight problem with the inner loop causing my locomotives to slip on the right loop; too much friction especially when using my longer heavier spine cars.
I had to add another 9" straight and the slipping ended. Prior to this, I cleaned my track fanatically, using 91% alcohol, then rubbed the rails with a piece of stainless steel. I also just as fanatically cleaned all my locomotives wheels.
since I recently bought AnyRail, I included the layout here.


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

I bought a 6-pack of the Walther's gold-line bethgons and they came with the non-functioning couplers as well. This is done as these things typically operate as unit trains that get pulled through a rotating unloader (swivel couplers typically located on the "marked" end of the bethgon.) I changed out the couplers on a couple of the cars so that I have (2) banks of 3 cars each that can be uncoupled from each other.


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## igmuska (Nov 21, 2009)

sstlaure said:


> I bought a 6-pack of the Walther's gold-line bethgons and they came with the non-functioning couplers as well. This is done as these things typically operate as unit trains that get pulled through a rotating unloader (swivel couplers typically located on the "marked" end of the bethgon.) I changed out the couplers on a couple of the cars so that I have (2) banks of 3 cars each that can be uncoupled from each other.


I changed the 33" wheelsets to 36" Walthers wheelsets as well as installing Kadee #148 couplers on all 12 of my BN Bethgons. At first I thought of making my own coal loads using some black modeling sand from Michaels' but instead just got some Chooch loads as then I could easily remove the loads without making a mess.


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

I went with the JWD Coal loads - they're nice and heavy and the cars ride real nice loaded. 

http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/372-1103

Any particular reason you went from 33" to 36" wheels?


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## igmuska (Nov 21, 2009)

sstlaure said:


> I went with the JWD Coal loads - they're nice and heavy and the cars ride real nice loaded.
> 
> http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/372-1103
> 
> Any particular reason you went from 33" to 36" wheels?


There were two reasons why I changed the wheelsets, the first being that my first bethgon set came with plastic wheels and metal axles; the second is that I used a coupler gauge, then saw that the couplers were a millimeter or so too low. I had a set of 36" wheelsets lying around, and put them into a bethgon, they gaged correctly then.
The final decision came after changing all wheelsets on my first set of bethgons to Walthers Proto 36" wheelsets. Compared to the plastic wheelsets, the Proto wheelsets rolled much farther.

Availability of the Chooch loads was the prime reason why I chose them. If I had known about the JWD loads you showed me, I'd have chosen them instead. Thanks for the recommendation as I am considering replacing my Chooch loads with the JWDs.


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

I agree - metal wheelsets are much nicer - they won't dirty your track the way plastic ones do either.

I'll have to look tonight to see if those cars gauge correctly. I've got them parked on a siding right now and haven't really used them in awhile.


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## sierrarailway38 (Nov 14, 2010)

Try Intermountain 36'' metal wheels and you will notice the difference, compared to the proto metal wheels.


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## igmuska (Nov 21, 2009)

sierrarailway38 said:


> Try Intermountain 36'' metal wheels and you will notice the difference, compared to the proto metal wheels.


Thanks for reminding me, I didn't use Walthers; I used Intermountain's 36" metal wheels for my 12 bethgons.


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