# Dusting the set off



## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

After more than 30 years of dis-use I rediscovered my moms (yes that's right) old set 1501S from 1953. She tells me her and her dad used to play with it together, and I played (abused?) it as a kid. Found in an old cardboard box were: a 2026 w/6066t, a 6032 gondola, 6035 Sunoco single dome tanker and 6037 caboose and enough track to make a decent oval. Only thing missing from the original set was the transformer. Also have a MoPac GP20 MPC era I believe and a plastic 8300 2-4-0 loco missing boiler front and tender as well as a 6119-75 caboose (all gray), a 3562-75 barrel car (orange) which were part of my dads old set 2281W. Sadly the 2243 A-B SF F3's, 6464-150 MP boxcar, 3361 log dump car and 6560 crane have vanished. Lacking 2 031 curves from making a nice oval in standard o. Have yet to run any of it, as the LW transformer is missing the control lever. Now, I just need to order the parts and get started. The most daunting part for me will be tackling the e-unit as I've never had one apart. But hey, I spent 25+ years fixing cars so how hard can it be? 

HELP!!! I've been bitten by the bug, is there a cure???? JK JK JK Looking forward to it really.


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## inxy (Dec 10, 2010)

Nice discovery ! Fear not the e-unit. There are some very good threads here for reconditioning the e-unit. Run a search on e-unit, look for t-man's posts amongst others.

B


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Just pry the sides apart and don't bend them. One good thread is on drum replacement here Under search and tag the name is "e unit drum replacement" .

Welcome to MTF and have fun.

This is the video link too!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Kwikster,

Well, you've fallen off the edge, like the rest of us, huh? There's no hope, really ... the best you can do is enjoy the ride on the way down!!!

Congrats on digging out the old Lionel relics. LOTS of life/fun left in those old dinosaurs. Great era, and they were built to last and last.

A couple of things you should be aware of:

1. FABULOUS thread link and two-part e-unit service link from T-Man, above. HIGHLY recommended for anyone delving into an e-unit.

2. Parts are readily available. Several of us like Jeff Kane at The Train Tender, www.ttender.com ... very professional service. Other parts sources here:

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=8090

3. For service, pick up a copy of the Greenberg's manual. Stick it under your pillow at night ... every night.

http://www.amazon.com/Greenbergs-Re...4553/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1330184551&sr=8-1

4. Much of that content (and much more) is available online, for free, at the FABULOUS Olsen's database/library. Olsen's is another very reputable parts suppliers (though a bit steep on shipping costs). Their tech library is very well organized ... loco spec sheets, parts lists, prewar, postwar, etc. When you get to any section, click on each page icon to open as an individual-page pdf file.

http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd1.htm

5. For general loco/car/accessories research and identification, two great sources:

Tandem Assoc -- use clickable menu at bottom ... http://www.tandem-associates.com/lionel/lionelident.htm

Postwar Lionel -- http://www.postwarlionel.com/

We have a nice group of pre- / post-war guys here. Delve in, have fun, ask questions, and post some pics!!!

TJ


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

I've been doing a lot of digging and research. Digging around on here a lot, getting ideas formulating plans etc. One thing I do before taking anything apart is read/watch information to understand what I'm getting into. Better than than an "OH CRAP" moment.

Thanks for those links, had already looked at some of them. From what I gather lurking about on here is T_MAN is the guru 

My initial plans are for a simple double loop 0-27 inside to o-31 using 2 transformers and get my feet wet again. Have almost all I need for that. As I'm starting on a small budget any good lower priced transformers you recommend. Max layout size initially will be 4x8ish.

Carl


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You can have a pair of 1033's for cheap, they're excellent for running one loop each.  If you want to go bigger, the KW is a good choice.


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

As I presently have an LW transformer I would be needing one additional. Would it be a bad idea to get another LW as many I'm seeing are of similar prices to the 1033? Thinking it would leave me room to add accessories later, such as getting the barrel car back to operational. Since it's a) 125w vs 90 and b) has extra output terminals.

Just thinking a bit ahead.

Edit: Just pulled the cover and blew out the insides, all looked good. Plugged it in and the light in the handle lit up (missing handle but 12 bux from traindoctor). Tomorrow I'll round up some wire and test the output.
Carl


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

You can always get more. I think the KW would work.


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

Progress, after a bit of track cleaning I assembled a small carpet layout. Using my little 8300 as a test, it moves well but tells me I need to spend more time cleaning track. Reshaped many ends where the O gauge had been pushed into the O-27. Going to sit down and work over every piece of track. I am finding my MoPac GP-20 needs O curves, kept coming off the O-27. Transformer worked good. Also needing to find one of those needle oilers like they used in the lube kits. Even found the bottle of smoke pellets for the 2026 buried under a few HO cars. Ordering the missing rods and stuff for the 2026 soon, can't wait to have it run again.

So far so good. UH OH!!!!!! I'm feeling the bug........:laugh:


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

I suggest you use 5W-20 motor oil to lube everything. No grease, 3 in 1 oil, light machine oil, WD-40 as this stuff dries out. The motor oil will last forever. 

I wouldn't mess with the E unit unless it doesn't work right. They don't need much maintenance.


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

Ya, been planning on the 5w-20 route. Also note that on an initial run ATF works wonders, a bit thinner and has better penetrating characteristics, then clean again with contact cleaner or IA. After cleaning use motor oil. I've used ATF to free up stuck parts forever. No plans for even Red-N-Tacky, I've used it for a long time on cars. One type of grease that I've found doesn't dry up is the older Ford wheel bearing grease, contains molydbnem dysulfide (moly) had a tub of it for years and still looks and feels like the day I bought it. My current tub is 10 years old or more. I use it in hard to disassemble components.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Kwikster,

I'm a big fan of using GooGone to degunk any grimy parts, gears, axles, etc. I've been using it on my prewar trains with great success. It cleans very well (via q-tips, pipe cleaners, soft toothbrushes, etc.), and is generally safe on the old Lionel paint.

TJ


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

Cleaned the track really well, ran my 8300 as a tester since it's manual reverse and found no dead spots under low power settings. Disassembled the 2026 and cleaned the brushes and commutator looked really good. Found the spring on the e-unit lever broken, bummer. Got semi-creative with a temp fix for test purposes, will need to fix properly before running again. The e-unit actually works remarkably well. It does have one bad habit, the front truck derails coming off a curve, using O-27 curves. Outside of that initial tests were a success.:thumbsup: Haven't lubed it yet, as I'm going to have to take it back apart anyway to fix the e-unit.


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## Konga Man (Dec 12, 2010)

Kwikster said:


> It does have one bad habit, the front truck derails coming off a curve, using O-27 curves.


I don't have any specific knowledge of the 2026, but you might look to see if there's a spring on the front truck. If there is, make sure that it works. If the truck just flops around, all manner of mischief can result.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

If you lube the front truck, it will probably stay on the track.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Since it has been in storage I would polish up the surfaces used by the front truck. Increasing the spring tension too. The wheels could be out of alignment too. This is a common problem with this engine and sometimes it relates to the switch. If you have an extra replace it. In the past some people get frustrated and change the front to 4 wheels. IF you get desperate try adding weight.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Kwikster said:


> Found the spring on the e-unit lever broken, bummer. Got semi-creative with a temp fix for test purposes, will need to fix properly before running again.


Kwikster,

"Spring on the e-unit lever ..." ???

Can you elaborate on that? What spring ??? Are you talking about the press-on slotted disc that holds the lever rivet?

Just curious,

TJ


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

The spring is the tension spring seen here:








It's split with about 1/3 of it gone. Mine doesn't look like that one though.
Looks more like the one seen here:


Edit: as to the tracking, I'm using a simple oval as my test track, 2 straight sections per side. I don't even own a switch track as of yet. That'll come once I get a table built.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Actually, there isn't a spring like that on a stock E-Unit. This is what it should look like, that's something that was jammed under there to attempt a repair.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Kwikster,

I thought that's what you were talking about, but I never heard that part referred to as a "spring" before. Something new for me. I see (now) that Jeff Kane calls these "spring washers".

If the "spring" is intact, but simply loose, there are a couple of ways you can try to fix it ...

1. Slip a thin shim underneath it. You see that in a photo above, as John pointed out.

2. If you have a fine-tipped needlenose pliers, you may be able to slip one jaw between the solenoid coil and the back of the rivet, and the other jaw on the head of the rivet (near spring). Squeeze gently ... you may be able to tighten things up just enough.

3. You can also induce a little bend into the "L" contact arm of the lever, essentially bumping out the lever in way of the rivet area a bit.

Cheers,

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

He needs a slightly bigger bend since the previous repair didn't take.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

If a repair gets complicated it is nice to have a spare handy. Switch them and save the bad one for a rainy day. They do sell them. The junkers are best but they need to be fixed first. I don't normally sugest it but to tackle a whole set at once. Sometimes you need a break.


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

Unfortunately, mine is missing about 1/2 of it, looks like it broke along the thinest places. I did manage to squeeze the washer closed enough to hold for testing purposes. All that "spring washer" is is just a thin (about 1/16th of an inch thick) piece of metal. If I can't get them from a source such as Traindoctor, I'll be checking Fastenall.

I just don't want it to come apart after putting time in getting it all lubed up and rolling.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I'm sure several Lionel parts dealers would have the washers. I know that Jeff Kane at www.ttender.com has them. There's a pic of e-unit parts available on his website.

Then again, I wonder if you could find a washer similar to that in your corner ACE or True Value hardwar store? Maybe.

Regards,

TJ


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

Couldn't figure out why the headlight wouldn't work. Looking at the diagram:http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/cd/locos%5Cloc2036a.pdf the light (and smoke unit) was wired wrong. It was wired as a double grounded setup. Meaning the "hot" wire was wired to the ground tab for the field coil for the motor. I know I didn't wire it that way, back then I'd have tossed it for wiring trouble  That and the solder job was too good.

Edit: my main parts dealer is Brasseur Electric Trains aka traindoctor.com. They're only about 45 minutes from me.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Good find/fix on the headlamp ground issue. Hot into center "nub" of bulb, outer rim of bulb grounded to loco motor/wheels/frame. A typical setup.

The guys at Brasseur have been quite helpful to me with a few inquiries. You should be in great hands.

Cheers,

TJ


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

It is sometimes more difficult to fix something that someone else has "fixed" than to fix something that is not working due to age. I once bought a Jaguar that had been "fixed" by an incompetent person. It had the strangest problems.


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

Recently did some minor repairs to the 2026, as in replacing the missing crossheads and linkages. I must say those Prairie series are some good runners. Soon I'm going to properly repair the e-unit (got it locked into forward only atm) and correctly wire the smoker. Have a bottle of the original smoke pellets that came with the set. 

Recently acquired a 6466w tender off e-bay. The shell will be totally stripped as it has 3 layers of added paint to it, one owner must have loved silver as it was painted silver except the cola bunker. Just finished re-wiring it, works fairly well, the relay seems to be sticking a bit. The more I used it the better it worked. 

I'm going to look for a "cheap" digital camera so I can post what I've got and where I'm at with it. I've missed this hobby, been thinking about doing this for a while.


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