# Hat in hand,



## mojotrain (Jul 24, 2012)

begging once more for help. I don't do Marx or at least I didn't but the last estate sale I went to had a basket case Marx 666 with some decent Lionel cars included. A note indicated it would only go backwards but not forward and had been taken apart to clean the reversing unit. All of the wires had been cut and it looks like it's wiring needs are different than any Lionel wiring scheme I've seen. Anyone know what attachs to what? I promise if I ever require enough knowledge about these things I'll help others out.

Thanks


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Take a look at the Marx 999 in T-man's thread ... different loco, but (maybe?) the same e-unit setup. Look especially at Post #7 and 12 ...

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=3108

Regards,

TJ


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## mojotrain (Jul 24, 2012)

*re*



tjcruiser said:


> Take a look at the Marx 999 in T-man's thread ... different loco, but (maybe?) the same e-unit setup. Look especially at Post #7 and 12 ...
> 
> http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=3108
> 
> ...


TJ thanks, from what I can see the motors are the same in that the lower brush is grounded to the frame and the upper brush is made up to one contact side of the two position e-unit, but thats as far as I can see in the photos. The two wires exiting the field coil have me stumped along with the wire that is attached to the other contact side of the E-unit. After cleaning the the e-unit works when tested alone. There is, what I'd call a buss bar, on the side of the E-unit where there is evidence of as many as three wires being clipped off. I assume the wire from the collector wire was also solidered to the buss bar. the e-unit coil has one wire grounded to the e-unit coil frame and the other wire is connected to the buss bar.
The unit is equipped with a smoker and a light but I'm not fighting that unill I get the rest fixed.

Hold on I may need to come back and edit this post out. I quit looking after post 11. Post 12 may be showing me exactly what I need.

Nope! It's all there, I'm just not getting it. In the post #12 drawing is the color coded bar what I have refered to as a buss bar, the copper strip that all things positive are soldered to. I did hook up power to the motor, a positive lead to one leg of the field coil and top brush holder and another lead to the other field coil wire and the bottom brush holder and the little motor comes to life. I've field stripped this thing so many times it looks like I've given it a polish job.


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## mojotrain (Jul 24, 2012)

tjcruiser said:


> Take a look at the Marx 999 in T-man's thread ... different loco, but (maybe?) the same e-unit setup. Look especially at Post #7 and 12 ...
> 
> http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=3108
> 
> ...


TJ, I went to e-bay to see if they had a 666 motor with full intentions of buying a motor or complete engine if possibleuy. There was a engine for sale and it showed several different views and I could tell the two motor coil wires were in places I hadn't discovered. They ran in a direction beneath the e-unit coil. I removed the e-unit and found two dobbs of solider minus wires. I re-solidered those wires at those points. It now works perfectly. The drawing on picture #12 that you pointed out works. I just didn't know how to read it. Thanks again for the help.


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## lears2005 (Feb 26, 2010)

I might still have a Marx 666 I will sell it if I still have it if you are interested will get you a pic of it tonight or in the morning


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

mojotrain said:


> I removed the e-unit and found two dobbs of solider minus wires. I re-solidered those wires at those points. It now works perfectly. The drawing on picture #12 that you pointed out works. I just didn't know how to read it. Thanks again for the help.


Mojo,

That's great news! You're one step of me, actually. I've fiddled with a lot of Lionel e-units, but never a Marx one. GRJohn is kindly sending me one so that I can play Dr. Frankenstein with it.

T-Man's wiring diagram had me head-scratching just a bit ... the little red sideways "V". Now that you've tackled your repair, perhaps you can sketch up a wiring diagram of how you see things on your end? I'd appreciate it.

Cheers,

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The diagram is not perfect , the switch reverses the leads to the coil. That is it Hot 1 to green 1 and the othe ris hot 2 to green 2. 

SInce you still have a cloud I should try again.


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## mojotrain (Jul 24, 2012)

*re*



tjcruiser said:


> Mojo,
> 
> That's great news! You're one step of me, actually. I've fiddled with a lot of Lionel e-units, but never a Marx one. GRJohn is kindly sending me one so that I can play Dr. Frankenstein with it.
> 
> ...


I certainly will I just need to wait until sometime Tuesday(Christmas day) when one of my grandchildren show up so they can show me how to get it from my printer to the computor to you.
I hooked this little guy up to pull a modern Lionel talking tender and the four set Lionel 9530 something Cresent Limited cars which it drags around with no problem. The smoker is as good as any Lionel steamer I run, and it uses liquid..

I love to tackle projects like this, even when I need help now and then.


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## mojotrain (Jul 24, 2012)

T-Man said:


> The diagram is not perfect , the switch reverses the leads to the coil. That is it Hot 1 to green 1 and the othe ris hot 2 to green 2.
> 
> SInce you still have a cloud I should try again.


I may have hit it lucky as one coil wire seemed to reach one side of the switch because of it's length the other the same. Now for any future repairs that require removal of the smoker and cross head assm. I worry that the little keeper tabs will twist off. Good old JB weld huh?


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## mojotrain (Jul 24, 2012)

lears2005 said:


> I might still have a Marx 666 I will sell it if I still have it if you are interested will get you a pic of it tonight or in the morning


I'm already past Lionel poor but after getting this 666 going I wish I had at least given Marx some consideration a few years back. I'll pass on the opportunity but thanks for the offer.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

mojotrain said:


> I worry that the little keeper tabs will twist off.


Usually, you can get an unbend/rebend out of them, if your careful. In my experience, you're best to pry up the tab just a fraction ... just enough to get a small flathead screwdriver underneath it. push the screwdriver in (under the tab) as far as you can, then flex the tab slowly up. The key is to use the full surface of the screwdriver to distribute the bend load to as much of the inner surface of the tab as possible while you're doing the unbend. This helps to minimize stress concentrations which can lead to a crack/break.

Cheers,

TJ


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