# Rolling Stock Coupler Conundrum!



## Butterball52113

When I acquired my son's layout it came with a ton of various branded locomotives and rolling stock…all with Rapido couplers. I have like 8 used / unboxed various branded rolling stock, 10 Bachman rolling stock, and a couple of really nice passenger train sets. 

The new locos and rolling stock I've bought are the Atlas Knuckle Couplers, Accumate Magnetic Couplers, and Micro Train Couplers. I did a quick search on google last night on couplers to identify some others and was AMAZED at all of the different couplers out there. ??? Why so many? 

Is there one type you all recommend? Do you really swap out couplers on all of your locos/rolling stock to match or just make a conversion car? Its difficult to even find trucks with couplers available on retailers websites - and the price point makes it almost senseless to swap trucks/couplers and just buy a new rolling stock with coupler trying to convert and swap out with what you have? Am I missing something here? 

What do you all recommend? I don't want to sell anything that came with my son's layout just because of old style rapid couplers but I still want him to be able to use everything and have fun!


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## Butterball52113

Are some couplers that look/appear similar but called different names interchangeable?


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## DonR

Most of the knuckle couplers (that look somewhat like the real thing)
will be somewhat compatible with each other. The standard for
comparisons are the Kadee knuckle couplers. 

You will find some won't be as 'friendly' as you would prefer but
basically you won't have too many problems. I would recommend,
however, that you choose the Kadee #148 for any replacements.
It is the easiest to assemble and install. Some times the hobby
shop might be out of those. The Kadee #5 could substitute but
it is a bit more difficult to assemble since it uses a brass 'box'
with springy side as the centering spring while on the #148 the
centering springs are a part of the shank.

You will want to replace any old 'horn hook' couplers with 
the Kadees. Tho some use a 'compatibility' car that has a
horn hook on one end and a Kadee on the other so that unconverted
cars can be run.

Don


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## Howard1975

All the various working knuckle couplers in N scale (such as Micro-Trains, Atlas Accumate, Bachmann, Athearn (McHenry coupler), and the Kato coupler), are all more or less compatible with each other, but not always 100 percent. The different brands operate slightly differently, in how the knuckle is attached and hinged on the side. There are also many different dummy knuckle couplers, including from Bachmann, Intermountain Railway Company, Roundhouse (Model Die Casting), Precision Masters (Red Caboose), Con-Cor and others. 

And then you have the old standard Arnold-Rapido couplers, available since the early 1960's, and still available on some brands to this day. 

You could keep the rapido couplers together in their own train; while keeping your various knuckle couplers together in another train. Or use a conversion car, so you can use everything together in one train. 

You can also buy truck sets from Micro-Trains (which include the freight truck, wheels and couplers) to convert some of your rapido cars to knuckle couplers, if you are willing to spend the money. 

It's really up to you, what you decide to do with your trains. The choice is yours, depending on your budget, and also your preferences. 

And the information posted by Don in the previous post, with the Kadee #5 and #148 coupelrs, only concerns HO scale. They are way too big for N scale. There are some Micro-Trains couplers which can be body mounted, if you so desire. It's quite common to body mount couplers on locomotives, less common on freight or passenger in N scale. 

Howard


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## traction fan

*Coupler recommendation*

Damn the cost? Full speed ahead?
Micro trains N-scale couplers are the right way to go, in my opinion. They are high quality and reliable and they offer a unique advantage, the ability to uncouple a car at one spot, and push it, still uncoupled to another spot. The Micro Trains people call this feature, "delayed uncoupling." I don't know of any other brand that can do this*
Why so many kinds? Because, for many years, the Micro Trains/Kaydee companies had patents on their magnetic couplers. When those patents ran out, other companies came out with their own versions.
By the way, Kaydee, which now makes H.O-scale products; and Micro Trains, which makes N-scale stuff are now separate companies with related (brothers) owners. At one time the two brothers ran one company; Kaydee. Later they split it up and specialized in their respective scales. That's why you may hear the two names mixed up. I still sometimes say Kaydee even for an N-scale item.
As for the advantage of delayed uncoupling; while I like it, many modelers prefer to uncouple cars manually using special tools made for the purpose. If you decide to do this, much of the "advantage" disappears, and you can select a knuckle coupler based on cost.
Speaking of cost; you might want to check on E-Bay, Craig's list and at swap meets for lower prices.
As for Rapido couplers, except for certain exceptions,I would defiantly replace them. Despite the financial pain, it's better to do it now than later when your car collection gets bigger.
The exceptions would be trains that seldom uncouple. Some passenger trains, all "unit trains", and blocks of freight cars that stay coupled;like a long string of refer cars within a freight train. A trick some modelers have used with long blocks of ore cars, is to remove the Rapido coupler from one end of each car, and trim the other end's Rapido coupler end into a small "T" shape that can fit into the cavity left at the removed coupler end of the next car. You have to lift cars to couple them, but they look better without the giant couplers showing and coupled closer together. 
The prior post from Don R contains good info, but for H.O.-scale. The Kaydee type #s do not apply to N-Scale. Micro Trains has their own numbering system.

Hope this clears up more confusion than it causes!
Happy modeling!

Traction Fan


* some of the "compatible" knuckle couplers from other brands may be able to do so. I don't know.


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## DonR

I forgot you are N scale. Disregard the Kadee #148 recommendation
that is HO.

Kadee uses similar terminology for the ability of
their couplers to push, uncoupled, a car to another spot.
You simply use a wand to push one coupler to the side
as they meet.

Don


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## powersteamguy1790

Convert all your cars to MT couplers. This goes for all diesel locomotives as well as the tenders of steam locomotives.


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## Cycleops

I use micro trains couplers on most of my N stuff and they are very reliable. They also work with majority of lookalikes the exception being Kato where results vary. If you want to stick the MTs they have a large inventory of conversions.


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## Butterball52113

Greetings all! 

Ok, I may start looking into swapping out the couplers on my rolling stock. 

My rapido rolling stock keeps coming loose...which I find odd-weren't those the most reliable - just ugly? 

I am still confused - can you just swap coupler or does it have to be the entire truck/wheel/coupler assembly? Also - how do you know what ton truck you have or need on rolling stock?


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## rrjim1

I use all MT/Kadee n-scale trucks with couplers on all my old rolling stock. This way you don't have to worry about coupler height. Just replace the trucks, adjust the pin and your ready to run.


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## Cycleops

rrjim1 said:


> I use all MT/Kadee n-scale trucks with couplers on all my old rolling stock. This way you don't have to worry about coupler height. Just replace the trucks, adjust the pin and your ready to run.


Effective solution, could get a bit pricey though!


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## Butterball52113

Yeah - my feelings exactly. Very costly, however, my hands are so bad last time I tried just to change a coupler on a loco it took about an hour. Probably just replace in time & consider these fun projects to do with my son when he's older.


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## rrjim1

Butterball52113 said:


> Yeah - my feelings exactly. Very costly, however, my hands are so bad last time I tried just to change a coupler on a loco it took about an hour. Probably just replace in time & consider these fun projects to do with my son when he's older.


Really, it only costs about $4 a car, those old trucks aren't worth a dime IMO, most are very poorly made and aren't free rolling. I enjoy my trains staying on the track not haven't to put them back on every couple minutes.


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## Butterball52113

Where do you buy them? I don't have a LHS and I swear every on-line retailer I know of is sold out. Found some on eBay for like $8 delivered. I have all different rands of rolling stock too - some have pins, some have screws. I may replace one and give it a try - losing your freight is no fun!


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## wsboyette

Most of my locos and some of my rolling stock have knuckle couplers, but I have a lot of older stuff with Rapido couplers. To save the expense of a complete changeover, I merely set up an adapter car for each train with a Rapido on one end and a MT on the other.


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## Butterball52113

Yeah that is what I did too & I feel that is good enough - it works! I think I'm going to leave well enough alone! My son and I just play with trains - don't care about specifics/period correctness/exact look. I thought I was having problems with my rapidos but it turned out my loco was just too long for the turning radius(s) on my sons layout.


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## wsboyette

That's me as well, I grew up with old ugly Rapido couplers so their presence in a train does not bother me.... I can take my time, years if need be, and upgrade all the old stuff to MT couplers at my own leisure !


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## traction fan

*Old Rapido coupler trick*

Butterball;

If you want to use Rapido couplers, and just run trains, here's an old trick modelers have used. It works best on a group of cars that seldom need to uncouple. Passenger cars, long strings of ore cars, hoppers, refers, unit trains, Etc. would be good examples.
Turn a Rapido equipped car upside down and take a close look at the way the coupler is attached. Usually, there is a small, black, steel, strap that is bent over at both ends. Use a small screwdriver and needle nose pliers to remove this strap, the coupler itself, and it's spring from ONE end of the car. Save all the removed parts. Now do the same thing to one end of another car. You should now be the proud, (if very confused) owner of two train cars that each have a coupler at one end; and no coupler at the other end.
Now look closely at one of the remaining couplers on one of the cars. The Rapido is shaped like a big, square hook. We want to cut off, (with small diagonal cutting pliers) The outer,"hook" part of the coupler. This should leave a "T"shaped, straight shank, and cross piece assembly sticking out of the "coupler end" of the car.
Now put both cars upside down, with this "T" end of one car, close to the "no coupler" end of the other car. You should be able to hook the crosspiece of the "T" into the empty coupler pocket of the other car. If the crosspiece is too long to fit into the pocket, carefully trim of a bit from each end of the crosspiece until it does fit.
Now turn both cars right side up, with them still "coupled" by the "T" in the pocket.
Congratulations! Reach around and pat yourself on the back for "re-inventing" the most reliable N-scale coupler in the world! It is all but impossible to uncouple these cars unless you lift the "pocket" end of one up. If you can live with that, and are OK with very manual uncoupling, you now have a cheap, ultra-reliable coupler that even looks better with most of it hidden and the cars at a more realistic, short spacing. Obviously, you can use this trick on as many cars as you like. You will also acquire a handy stock of spare Rapido couplers, springs, and straps.

Good Luck!

Traction Fan


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## wsboyette

I'd just as soon upgrade to MT couplers as go to all that trouble. No matter what, they look better.


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## Cycleops

wsboyette said:


> I'd just as soon upgrade to MT couplers as go to all that trouble. No matter what, they look better.


+1. I concur.


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## rrjim1

traction fan said:


> Butterball;
> 
> If you want to use Rapido couplers, and just run trains, here's an old trick modelers have used. It works best on a group of cars that seldom need to uncouple. Passenger cars, long strings of ore cars, hoppers, refers, unit trains, Etc. would be good examples.
> Turn a Rapido equipped car upside down and take a close look at the way the coupler is attached. Usually, there is a small, black, steel, strap that is bent over at both ends. Use a small screwdriver and needle nose pliers to remove this strap, the coupler itself, and it's spring from ONE end of the car. Save all the removed parts. Now do the same thing to one end of another car. You should now be the proud, (if very confused) owner of two train cars that each have a coupler at one end; and no coupler at the other end.
> Now look closely at one of the remaining couplers on one of the cars. The Rapido is shaped like a big, square hook. We want to cut off, (with small diagonal cutting pliers) The outer,"hook" part of the coupler. This should leave a "T"shaped, straight shank, and cross piece assembly sticking out of the "coupler end" of the car.
> Now put both cars upside down, with this "T" end of one car, close to the "no coupler" end of the other car. You should be able to hook the crosspiece of the "T" into the empty coupler pocket of the other car. If the crosspiece is too long to fit into the pocket, carefully trim of a bit from each end of the crosspiece until it does fit.
> Now turn both cars right side up, with them still "coupled" by the "T" in the pocket.
> Congratulations! Reach around and pat yourself on the back for "re-inventing" the most reliable N-scale coupler in the world! It is all but impossible to uncouple these cars unless you lift the "pocket" end of one up. If you can live with that, and are OK with very manual uncoupling, you now have a cheap, ultra-reliable coupler that even looks better with most of it hidden and the cars at a more realistic, short spacing. Obviously, you can use this trick on as many cars as you like. You will also acquire a handy stock of spare Rapido couplers, springs, and straps.
> 
> Good Luck!
> 
> Traction Fan


I tried this with a 45 car Atlas ore train, (4 cars to a set), didn't work well, couldn't keep the cars on the track. I tried everything I could think of, ended up changing all the cars to MT trucks/couplers. Now the train stays on the track, and I have fun running it, one of the best things I have done.


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## wsboyette

Rapidos are ugly & non-prototypical, but they work ok.


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## traction fan

*Ore cars with modified Rapidos*

rrjim1

Sorry you had problems with modified Rapidos. I,and several club members, have used this method, without problems, for years. Glad to hear you are having fun with your present, Micro trains set up. Since you're having fun, that's all that matters, however you reach that goal.

Regards;
Traction fan


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## Butterball52113

Right on, Traction Fan…its all about the fun! Thanks for all of your suggestions everyone…so far things are working fine - maybe just had a bad day running the railroad the other day with trucks falling off. I don't care about how rapidos look - just as long as the work. Everything seems to be working fine now.


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