# Lionel 1689W tender refresher



## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Here's my poor old tender. I picked this up a few days ago along with the 259E engine. The engine and other cars are all in great shape, and the shell of this tender is doing well.

The problem is the very sick whistle. Check out the below video to hear just how rough the poor thing is. I'll post pics of the tear down and rebuild as I get it done. It's been apart before, but I don't think they lubed it when done. It looks like just one wire was replaced . . . probably dry rotted.






I can't wait to get dig deep into this.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

That is indeed a VERY sick whistle! 

Time to take all the screws out and clean up and lube.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Ed and T-man will tell you ... there could be critters in there ... really ... spiders and the like, jamming the chamber.

The good news is that the motor runs. You're already halfway to a whoo-WHOOO!

TJ


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

I began digging into the tender today. Yesterday, I ordered some replacement brushes from The Train Tender, and I hope to have those before I start putting this back together. 

To being, here are some overall photos of the outer condition. It's in really good shape. The coupler isn't bent, and it rolls along really well.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

As I started to investigate, I noticed the wire from the pickup roller to the motor has been replaced. I'll be replacing that again as part of this refresher:


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

To get into the shell, you have to bend back the tabs holding it to the chassis. In this case some were already bent back with only the two center ones being bent flat:



















I just used a small, flat head screwdriver to bend the tab. Then, some needle nose pliers to get it bent to the correct position to pull the shell.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Yay, it's open and you can see all the fun!


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Removing the whistle and motor assembly from the chassis was really straightforward. Just remove the two flathead screws from the bottom, and cut the feed wire from the pickup roller.

Note: when removing those flatheads be careful to not lose the small lockwasher on each.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Time to get the motor open and see what's happening. On the plus side, it's working . . . barely. I'm guessing it's really thirsty for some lubrication, but we need to get in there and clean it all up.

There are a couple of steps to this. You need to remove the solder and wires from each of the brushes, then the 3 flat head screws. 




























Then, gently pry the plate up to expose the armature. Remember, the brushes are loaded with springs. Be careful to keep track of them as you pull up the plate. You don't want one flying across the room.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

This is grungy . . . it will get cleaned up later. And I'll replace the brushes with new.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Now that the armature is free and brushes exposed, it's time to pull the cup from the other side.

It's held in place by this metal band:










Just turn the top stop and remove the band. The cup will slip out.










It's all pretty, and very dry. Not a hint of lubrication.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Nice photo essay. You're posts are always so clear / helpful!

The ends of those brushes could be sanded smooth/flat, if you were in a pinch. Dremel with abrasive disk; emery board; etc.

Cheers,

TJ


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Thanks!

Yeah, I could save them, and I will keep them in the parts bin. I had to place an order with Jeff anyway, and for the $1.60 I wasn't going to worry about it.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Hmmm ...

Now you've got me thinking. I've poked around with a few 1689W prewar whistle tenders, but I don't recall seeing a "lower" impeller/motor bearing like that one before ... the removable "ball". I thought it was just a simple shaft-in-hole setup. Maybe I'm mistaken with fuzz memory.

Anyone else recall? Is that ball a standard setup on 1689W whistles?

TJ


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Not to mention The Train Tender is about 40 minutes from here so when he sends me parts I usually get them next day. Even with the USPS.


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## santafe158 (Jul 14, 2010)

tjcruiser said:


> Hmmm ...
> 
> Now you've got me thinking. I've poked around with a few 1689W prewar whistle tenders, but I don't recall seeing a "lower" impeller/motor bearing like that one before ... the removable "ball". I thought it was just a simple shaft-in-hole setup. Maybe I'm mistaken with fuzz memory.
> 
> ...


I just took apart my 2020W diecast whistle. To access the lower motor bearing, I had to remove the whole bottom plate. The bearing was inside a brass cylinder that the impeller shaft slides into. You can see and oil the bearing through a hole through the bottom plate. Wish it was as easy to access as the one shown above.

On the other hand, I cleaned more old grease out of the whistle which seems to have cured its sluggishness. I didn't dig into it that deeply when I bought the locomotive. :laugh:


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

When you put the shell back on, don't bend the tabs. Twist two of them slightly to keep the shell in place. If you bend them over, they will break after a few bends.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Sounds like a plan.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

A bit more progress tonight. I ran the new wire from the pickup roller, polished the roller, and polished the armature face.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

I started the reassembly today. I lubricated the armature, mounted it and then the new brushes. A bit more oil on either end, and it was time for a test.

So much better!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Sounds great, Ryan! :thumbsup:

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

No more bolts in a coffee can sounds!  Looks like it's fully recovered.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Now it's fully wired up and ready to go. Here's a video of it back together - without the shell. I'll post some photos later of it all back together.

Reassembly is easy. Just put it back together and solder the wires back in place. You'll want to be sure to leave enough length in the wire from the track contact roller so it has some room for movement.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

And one last photo of everything reassembled and soldered. Adding the shell later was just a simple reversal of pulling it apart.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Did you remember to stick a little note on the inside? "Erk Wuz Here!" or something like that ... service date, your name/location. I've been doing that on a couple of my rehabs ... I might not see them again, but someday, somebody down the road might get a chuckle.

TJ


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

That's a good idea. I'm going to have to do that. When I was trying to start a company building audiophile grade speakers I did that with each pair we delivered. Name / date / email address. Because you never know.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Here it is going around the track. It has pretty good sound. Time to move on to the next project . . . which is getting back to work in the basement so I can get a layout put together.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Cruisin' behind the 259 in great style! Looks/sounds wonderful.

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Back in the "pink", good job.


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## ColtsKurt (Jan 28, 2012)

That looks like the set I just picked up. Add a silver tank and we're a match.
The 1689w... does it sound on its own, without a controller?


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

You need a controller (or a transformer with a whistle button) to activate the DC-powered relay (in the tender) that throws a mechanical switch to turn on the AC-powered whistle fan motor.

Pushing the controller button imposes a DC signal on the track, together with the normal AC power.

TJ


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## ColtsKurt (Jan 28, 2012)

TJ, any ideas why mine whistles without a controller wired-in? Could the transformer be "spiking," or something?

Trust me, I like that the unit does that. I believe there is something wrong with my controller - no. 167 - as it activates the whistle just fine and the directional button works fine, but the overall power to the train isn't anywhere near as it is when running without the control.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The whistle relay can sometimes be flaky and cause the whistle to blow randomly


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

If the whistle is whistling "on it's own", it's either one of two things:

1. Something is kicking a DC signal to the track, activating the whistle relay. It could be a glitchy rectifier, perhaps. Or ...

2. The relay flap inside the whistle tender is simply getting stuck, and not dropping down as it should. Some cleaning/lube will likely help here.

TJ


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## ColtsKurt (Jan 28, 2012)

tjcruiser said:


> If the whistle is whistling "on it's own", it's either one of two things:
> 
> 1. Something is kicking a DC signal to the track, activating the whistle relay. It could be a glitchy rectifier, perhaps. Or ...
> 
> ...


Would that do damage the whistle? I kinda like the randomness of it going off, as long as there's no damage being done. Only happens as the unit gets warmed up.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

I have had whistles and horns operate intermittently when the train is running. A small glitch in the power to the tender may cause the whistle relay to pick up momentarily. Cleaning the track and pickup roller may help???

If the whistle relay gets stuck, and the whistle remains on after the whistle signal is removed, then the relay may be magnetized and running the train with the polarity of the transformer reversed may solve the problem by demagnetizing the relay. I have never tried this as a quick smack on the top of the tender will also dislodge the relay or playing with the whistle controller will accomplish the same thing. Right now in my hotel room I have two whistle tenders and a ZW, and both tenders work perfectly. 

No damage to the whistle will be done by this intermitant operation


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