# Electrical problem with my HO track



## novice

Not sure if this belongs here or in the Electrical forum but since I'm a beginner I'll start here... Sorry for the long post but I want to make sure I get it explained properly.

I'm laying temporary track for my layout in HO and O. Both have a similar problem, but I'll focus on the HO for now.

I have some track which I purchased as used that I am attempting to get a train to go around without any luck.

I also have a brand new loco set just out of the box which came with LifeLock track.

When I put the LifeLock track together, place the loco on the track and hook up my transformer, the train runs around the track just fine.


However, on the track I just purchased which I set up in a simple circle just to get it running, (2 rail brass and NS) the train starts to go for a few inches (about 6-10) then stops and won't start again.

I'm pretty certain there is current going to the track but perhaps the connections somewhere are bad?

I have an electrical tester which I set to DC and even though I don't know much about electrical testing, when I touch the leads to the track the needle jumps/moves . 

I touch the black connector to the outside track and the red to the inside track - not sure if that makes a difference.

I have used the tester on every piece of connected track in my circle while the transformer is on and the needle moves but the train doesn't move.

What I've tried so far:

Swapping out pieces of track that don't "look" right - such as slightly rusty or tarnished.
Switching the red and black wires between the connector posts on the rerailer terminal track

I'm kinda stuck on what to check next.

If someone can point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it greatly.

Thanks in advance for reading and any assistance.


----------



## tjcruiser

Novice,

All of your detective work is on the right track. Good thinking.

Per comments in your other thread, traditional HO (non DCC) uses simple DC power. As such, one rail has "positive voltage" power from the transformer, and the other rail is a ground. On the track, there should be no contact or electrical short between the two. Current should flow from transformer out to the hot or positive rail, and up into the loco motor from one set of wheels on one side of the loco. From there, the loco runs with that power, then the current flows out through the opposite set of wheels to the ground rail, and back to the transformer.

Note that the left and right set of wheels on the loco (generally) should be electrocally isolated from each other.

If your loco runs just fine on the LifeLock track, than the loco itself should likely be fine.

Which points the finger back at your "other" track. Does your electrical tester have a continuity setting? I.e., to check for shorts? Remove the power leads to the track, and remove the loco. Then, at various spots on the track, touch both rails to see if there's any short between them ... there shouldn't be.

Next, as you've done, check for continuity around each of the rails itself. Loose rail joiners and the like.

Finally, check the power leads from the transformer to the track. Are you using a special power hookup track section?

Does the train run better (at all) closer to the power lead section, and worse (at all) far away from that?

I guess also, and fundamentally, make sure that the top of the track is cleaned. The brass should be shiny ... use a ScotchBrite pad to clean it up.

Keep us posted,

TJ


----------



## novice

Thanks TJ,

I'm going to check those things now, including the short test if it has that.

How "tight" do the joiners have to be? There are some that I can wriggle and others that are quite tight.

The power hook up is the rerailer terminal track (pic below). I also touched the wires directly to the track to see if the terminal track was bad with the same results.

Here's a pic of the terminal track:


----------



## novice

Tj,

you the man 

I went back and checked all the track connections (no shortage test on my tester) and a few of them seemed to be bad.

I replaced 3 bad tracks (where the loco kept stopping) and their connectors and the loco makes it all the way around the circle.

Expanding the line next now that I know what to look for.

Thank you so much!


----------



## modeltrainhead

applaud


----------



## penlu

I find 99% of the time it's loose connection or dirty track. Mostly dirty track.


----------



## novice

Thanks for the replies everyone.

It seems I'm finding the same thing. Problem for me is isolating which tracks 

Plus, I'm working with used track - on a budget you see.


----------



## penlu

ME TOO! Bought in job lots on e-bay! Then stored in the crawl space under my house for 8 years. 

I have one little diesel switch engine that seems to run on anything, so if it is slow or jerky, I know it's the track.


----------



## novice

LOL, eight years ago ay? Made my ebay purchases last week 

I have 3 HO sets and 1 O set. Thinking of getting another O to run on my main line - we'll see.

I have all O stuff - buildings etc. but I wanted to make sure I get the HO stuff layed out and working before moving to my main bench layout.

The HO is going to be on a top level behind the O.


----------



## penlu

That sounds like fun! 

Yes, 8 years ago, and I was a novice then and really didn't get too much smarter. Now I'm learning everything I thought I knew all over again.


----------



## novice

Penlu, I feel your pain.

I had set up an O layout about 10 years ago - nothing fancy or picture worthy but I learned a lot. 

Specially about the wiring, and building the bench which I still have, I've now forgotten everything I learned about running the wiring, can't remember a darn thing and have to learn it all over again.

*sigh*


----------



## penlu

At least my neighbor is enthusiastic about playing too! And he's a lot smarter about electricity and carpentry etc than I am. I usually say "if it works, do it" but he studies and does things right! He built all my benchwork!


----------



## novice

Wow, you're lucky to have a friend helping.

On my own  10 fingers all thumbs and not a visually creative or artistic bone in my body.

And Carpentry or Electricity well, let's just say it's a good thing I have insurance on my house


----------



## tjcruiser

Novice,

Nothing wrong with using old track, as long as you keep the top surface clean. However, I would strongly urge you to invest in a package or two of new rail joiners. It's likely the old ones have been bent and twisted to the point where they're loose ... even if you snug them up with pliers. You'll find that new joiners simply fit better, and help eliminate bad conductivity problems.

My layout has a mix of old brass track and some newer nickel silver. I used new nickel silver rail joiners throughout.

Regards,

TJ


----------



## novice

Thanks TJ - that's what I was thinking this afternoon after replacing the "bad" track.

I'll go looking for joiners tonight for best price and get a few packs.

Thanks again for all your guidance.


----------



## tjcruiser

Anytime! :thumbsup:


----------

