# Differences in quality between brands?



## Area57 (Nov 8, 2015)

So, I was at the hobby store today and the main brands that stuck out were Bachmann atlas athearn Kato Walters and some cheaper one. Looking online at Walters I'm sure there are more. 

On top of that there appear to be a couple different series. Athearn has Genesis locos for instance. I think most locos are in that $80-110 range and the really nice DCC ones $200. You can definitely tell the difference. But also the price reflects this. 

I compared side by side two cabooses. Both the same price. One Bachmann silver series and the other athearn. To me the athearn looked better. 

Are they? What would be a rough ranking. I think for some rolling stock I'm just going to have to get what is availablen but when I have a choice who to choose? Are there other more subtle differences?


----------



## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Quality*



Area57 said:


> So, I was at the hobby store today and the main brands that stuck out were Bachmann atlas athearn and some cheaper one. Looking online at Walters I'm sure there are more.
> 
> On top of that there appear to be a couple different series. Athearn has Genesis locos for instance. I think most locos are in that $80-110 range and the really nice DCC ones $200. You can definitely tell the difference. But also the price reflects this.
> 
> ...


 Everyone has their own favorite brand. Mine is Kato, but all the brands you mentioned have decent products. I would rank the Bachman lower than the Atlas, or Athern. Others may differ,in fact I'd be surprised if they didn't! The best way to pick a loco is by trying it on a test track. See how slowly it will run smoothly, without stalling or jerking. 
The different series you mentioned are mostly a difference in detailing. The basic mechanisms are similar.
DonR; on this forum, has had very good luck with some HO Bachmans. I hope he will chime in with some info. My own suspicion of Bachman, is based mostly on their N scale locos, and old ones at that. The really old Bachmans(N scale) were lousy.:smilie_daumenneg: They have improved their product, over time, but I've seen some newer, "custom line" N locos that didn't run much better than their ancestors.
Since you are fortunate enough to have a hobby shop, try to arrange a test run of the particular loco you are considering.

Traction Fan


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Bachmann formerly produced some real junk, but they've upped their game recently, and their new stuff (last 7-8 years, at least) is as good as anybody elses.

Really, what you buy with a higher price point is more detail and realism. You have to decide what your own price point is. Lower priced stuff tends to have molded-on details and not be overly concerned with prototypical accuracy. Higher prices mean separately added details and better research / fidelity behind the model (Did that railroad actually operate that loco or car, and is the numbering and detailing accurate to that road). Of course, all those details are fragile, which may be an issue for you.


----------



## Area57 (Nov 8, 2015)

Ok. So far the athearns. All of them. Look overwhelmingly the best to me. But I haven't looked at many Kato.


----------



## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

I have two Bachmann F7 AB (Black Widow) sets and am pretty happy with the way they run, good low speed and might even pull a little bit better than my Athearn Genesis AA sets.
The big difference is in the fine details. Athearn way better than Bachmann.

Magic


----------



## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

I think it's all subjective......many pieces from many manufacturers could be considered "best". I liken it to makers of large appliances.....G.E. may make the "best" dishwasher, but their ovens could be crap......no one manufacturer makes the "best" of everything.....


----------



## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Kato H.O.*



Area57 said:


> Ok. So far the athearns. All of them. Look overwhelmingly the best to me. But I haven't looked at many Kato.


Area57;

Kato does make some H.O. locos. If you get the chance, try running some, I think you'll be impressed by them. I don't know how many, or what types, they offer in your scale. Kato is justly famous among we N scale modelers as they are a major player in N scale. To my knowledge they have never produced a bad N scale product of any kind.

Traction Fan


----------



## DavefromMD (Jul 25, 2013)

You want metal wheels on rolling stock and knuckle couplers. The Bachmann Silver Series rolling stock are very good and an excellent value. Next valuewise is Atlas TRainman.

For rolling stock with metal wheels and knuckle couplers, increased price is mostly for more detail.

I have 4 Bachmann DCC non sound locomotives (3 diesel GPs and 1 steam) that run and pull well.

The higher prices on locomotives can be DC vs DCC, sound vs no sound, more detail vs less detail.

Bottom line, its what you want at a price you're willing to pay.


----------



## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Most of my stuff is from the 70's and most of it is IHC which was a big train seller back them. Don't hear much about then now. The locos all ran great but parts like the dog bone drive safts wore out pretty fast, easy part to replace. I do have one Atlas loco and I love it. I have steel, brass and nickle silver track all mixed up and the layout is outside in my shed where the humidity can get to it easily. Consequently when I go to run the trains I must clean all the track before my loco's will run. Not the Atlas though. Put it on the old cruddy track and it runs every time. No herky jerkin' or stopping, it just goes and goes and goes. Great engine I say. In my pictures (Bonita Grand Railroad) you'll see this engine in the blue and yellow/orange colors of the Seminole Gulf Railroad. Pete


----------



## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Magic said:


> The big difference is in the fine details. Athearn way better than Bachmann.
> 
> Magic


Its true, the devil is in the detail as they say but you have to remember that the Athearn stuff is twice or three times the price. IMHO Bachmann is the best value out there right now.


----------



## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

norgale said:


> Not the Atlas though. Put it on the old cruddy track and it runs every time. No herky jerkin' or stopping, it just goes and goes and goes. Great engine I say.


The only thing that I can think of the makes a loco run better on cruddy track is more pick-up wheels. Certainly that is one indication of quality, but there are many other aspects to quality as well


----------



## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Or maybe more weight!


----------



## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

My self preference is Athearn rolling stock with Atlas engines. My GS-$ Daylight is a Broadway Limited. I do have one Bachman Steam Loco which I've have nothing but trouble since day one. The Athearns are "blue box kits" which I've converted over to Kadee couplers and metal wheel sets. 80 percent of my loco's have sound. Trains run smooth and don't fall off the track, stall out or explode. Life is good on the A&NRR shortline./COLOR]


----------



## trains galore (Jul 22, 2013)

I have found the recent Bachmann locos to be very good runners and detailed enough for me! 
The silver series rolling stock is really nice, I have a maintenance crane and a few other models from the series and they roll very nicely on the track, the metal wheels make a huge difference!

I would avoid the old Bachmann models from around 8-12 years ago though, I have one and while it runs ok it is very noisy and not very smooth, they tended to use the pancake motor design which runs poorly unless constantly maintained and even so the sealed can motors the manufacturers use now are far smoother and more reliable. :thumbsup:


----------



## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

A&NRR said:


> I do have one Bachmann Steam Loco which I've have nothing but trouble since day one./COLOR]




Steam locos are inherently more likely to cause problems that diesels -- especially at turnouts -- due to the multiple drive wheels and the light-weight front truck. Which model Bachmann is it, and what specific problems does it cause?


----------



## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

I bought it new about three years ago. I can't remember what it is exactly a 2-6-0 or a 0-4-0 came in a blue box, DCC ready it says. Although I'm old school and running analog DC. It keeps hanging up on turnouts and rerailers. I thought maybe my couplers might need adjusting. I ran it straight out of the box without doing a complete inspection. I hope it something simple, cause with a little weathering it'll make a good looking addition to my fleet. That is the only issue I ever had with any loco from any manufacture.


----------



## DavefromMD (Jul 25, 2013)

I have a Bachmann 0-6-0 that got hung up on one of my rerailers. Its the gear box cover under the locomotive. But the problem was not the locomotive, it was the one rerailer. It was slightly warped so I determined where the locomotive was rubbing the rerailer by rubbing chalk in the bottom plate of the locomotive and seeing where it rubbed the rerailer. I then sanded down that area of the rerailer. Problem solved.

As for hanging up on turnouts, that has to do with the short wheelbase of the 2-6-0 (which for the Bachmanns is nothing more than an 0-6-0 with a set of lead wheels attached). When going slowly over a switch, there is not enough distance in length to keep electrical contact. You have to cross the switch with enough momentum to negate that.


----------



## thedoc (Oct 15, 2015)

MtRR75 said:


> Steam locos are inherently more likely to cause problems that diesels -- especially at turnouts -- due to the multiple drive wheels and the light-weight front truck. Which model Bachmann is it, and what specific problems does it cause?



If it hasn't been noted elsewhere, it should be noted that the way Bachmann assembled their drivers is a major source of trouble. The drivers were assembled with two halves pressed into a plastic hub, these hubs would often work loose and the drivers would go out of quarter. Diesels have the same technique but the drivers are not in quarter so the results are just a clicking when running, and Bachmann and Lifelike would send replacement hubs for free. The method of assembly is the same as an Athearn Diesel but Athearn didn't seem to have as much trouble with it. If the problem is the engine running rough, it might be the drivers slipping in the hubs.


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

You can read great reviews on just about every make of locomotive here
on the Forum. You will also see reports of any problems buyers
have encountered. In general, tho, recent make diesels are
dependable.

However, in this era of modelling, it appears that just about all on
the market are of good quality.

I have 8 Bachmann DCC locos. The only problem I have encountered
was damage, the result of my clumsiness.

I would suggest that when buying a new diesel locomotive, if you like
the details and find the price affordable, buy it. With decent care it
will be yours for years.

I have had no experience with steamers. From reports here on
the Forum, it does seem that steam buyers
have had more than their share of problems. Ask about a warranty 
and if your can return it. They are very attractive locomotives but
their rods and drivers add complications not found in diesels.
Often the tender is the power source.

Don


----------



## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

I'd still buy a new Bachman if it's the roadname and type I want. This one is going on my workbench, it's too nice of a loco to abandon. I'll find the problem and fix it at some point, and make it a nice piece of equipment to the A&NRR.


----------



## Chet (Aug 15, 2014)

I got out of N scale in the late 70's because for the most part, the locomotives of that time were garbage and moved on to HO scale. At the time, Athearn was probably the most reliable out of the box locomotive. I got a few of them but went to work upgrading them. The old sintered iron wheels were changed over to Nickel Silver. The metal strap from th emotor to the trucks were hard wired and eventually all of them had their motors replaced with can motors. They are still great running locomotives today. 

I was a bit unhappy with the Athearn geeps because the width of the hood was too wide and then Atlas come out with their Alco RS units. I was sold on them and got quite a few which were all custom painted for my freelance railroad. They still are excellent performing locomotives. I do not have any experience with todays Athearn locomotives. 

Stewart also makes some outstanding locomotives. Kato makes some great running locomotives. I don't own one, but have some out of state friends who swear by them. The newer Bachmann locomotives are also nice locomotives. Back in the 80's I wouldn't have given you a plug nickel for one of their locomotives, but in recent years have really gotten their poop in a group and are offering some really nice running units. 

Whe it comes to steam, I do have one of Bachmanns early consolidations which is an excellent running steamer. No problems at all with it. Not quite as good as my brass locos, but a good runner. I was disappointed with their decapod (2-10-0). It ran well but was a wimp and could only handle 4 or 5 cars on a 2% grade. My son gave me a Bachmann 2-6-0 with DCC and sound (I am old school and still run DC only, but it is a very smooth running little guy, but is also a wimp when it comes to a grade, but it is a small engine. I use it to pull a couple of passenger coaches. I was so impressed with the 2-6-0 I went and bought a Bachmann S-2 switcher which is also an excellent running locomotive. It is in the "Switching in Churchill" video in my signature. 

BLI makes some excellent steamers I believe. I picked up a heavy mike (2-8-2) which has incredible detail for a plastic unit and is a very good pulling loco with great low speed control. The only reason I got it was because it only cost me $100 and I really like the looks of the heavy mike.


----------



## Prewar Pappy (Jul 26, 2015)

*In My Opinion*

It has been my experience that KATO should be the considered premier maker. I never had any problems with their power units, rolling stock or track. Say what you will but these are: Made In Japan not R.O.C.


----------



## JNXT 7707 (May 5, 2013)

I don't own one, but from reports I have read and just by looking at the product, I think Hornby/Rivarossi is putting out some incredible models now - particularly their new U25C. At first glance it looks like the old Rivarossi/AHM model (which was state of the art in its day) but take a closer look and the detail will blow you away. Did me, anyway. 
The driveline is entirely new tooling.


----------



## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

A&NRR said:


> I bought it new about three years ago. I can't remember what it is exactly a 2-6-0 or a 0-4-0 came in a blue box, DCC ready it says. Although I'm old school and running analog DC. It keeps hanging up on turnouts and rerailers. I thought maybe my couplers might need adjusting. I ran it straight out of the box without doing a complete inspection. I hope it something simple, cause with a little weathering it'll make a good looking addition to my fleet. That is the only issue I ever had with any loco from any manufacture.


I started with an old, inherited layout, and bought used and new-old-stock locos. So I have gotten pretty good and figuring out why steamers don't run smoothly.

Start with the simplest possible problem. Something is hanging too low and catching on the turnouts and retailers. Examine the bottom and make sure that no screws have worked loose and are hanging down (I had that happen once).

If it passes that test, run the loco very slowly over a troublesome turnout and shine a flashlight under the loco to see if anything is hanging low enough to catch on the turnout/rerailer. The most likely cause is the trip pin on the coupler (assuming knuckle couplers). Or the whole coupler could be sagging down if it is not mounted correctly in the coupler box.

If your loco passes both of these tests, then we need to discuss what you mean by "hanging up". When the loco stops:
(1) are the wheels still on the tracks -- if not, this is a derailment. If that is what you have, let me know and we can go through all of the things that might cause it.
(2) If the wheels are on the tracks, is the headlight still on (assuming a working headlight). If the headlight is off, then we have either a loss of power or a short. If that is what you have, let me know and we can go through all of the things that might cause this.
(3) If the wheels are on the tracks, and the headlight is on, is the motor still humming or buzzing, or is it silent.

Let me know what you find out.


----------



## PhillipL (May 5, 2012)

For what it is worth, you might consider trying a mid-range brand such as Athearn Ready To Roll and see how you like it. I would avoid jumping in purchase expensive high end items before you know if you want to really become active in the hobby. While high end items such as Athearn Genesis, MTH and Walthers Proto are super detailed and fantastic looking, they are also super fragile. I prefer the mid-range such as Athearn RTR and Walthers Mainline because they still look great and if I drop it and break it, I am not out a great deal of money. For me, the hobby is about having fun, running trains and not having beautiful museum pieces.


----------



## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Prewar Pappy said:


> It has been my experience that KATO should be the considered premier maker. I never had any problems with their power units, rolling stock or track. Say what you will but these are: Made In Japan not R.O.C.


Interesting isn't it, I can remember when Made in Japan meant cheap and nasty which is what some associate Made in China with now. But would you consider Athearn, Atlas and Bowser lesser in quality? Is Apple an inferior brand because of where its made? Just saying.


----------



## Area57 (Nov 8, 2015)

No but most made in China is garbage. Japan in general makes a superior product.


----------



## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

Thanks MtRR75 I'll follow your steps, I'll let you know what happens. My wife is going out of town Friday for business. Friday night will be pizza and trains, ain't life grand.


----------



## Area57 (Nov 8, 2015)

Ooo. Sounds fun.


----------



## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

LOL it is very fun. She's a professional photographer and I love it when she goes out of town on a photoshoot. That means I can work on trains all night without any distractions. Hope she never reads this or I'll be sleeping with my trains lol.


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Area57 said:


> No but most made in China is garbage. Japan in general makes a superior product.


That's also a stereotype. iPhones are made in China. Chinese people and factories are capable of making products to any level of quality. The problem is that, in the quest for lower prices, our importers are often not invoking the quality controls they should. When you do invoke controls (see iPhone), you get a quality product.

It's garbage because the people who issue contracts to Chinese factories allow it to be, not because there is inherently anything wrong with Chinese manufacturing.


----------



## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

My Bachmann is actually a Baldwin 2-8-0 consolidation, I'm going to follow MRTT75's advice and go thru the steps of troubleshooting it. After reading everybody's input on the "new" Bachmann I really want to get this running smooth and add it to my running engine roster. I have about 8 dead loco's already in my graveyard.


----------



## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

MtRR75 said:


> I started with an old, inherited layout, and bought used and new-old-stock locos. So I have gotten pretty good and figuring out why steamers don't run smoothly.
> 
> Start with the simplest possible problem. Something is hanging too low and catching on the turnouts and retailers. Examine the bottom and make sure that no screws have worked loose and are hanging down (I had that happen once).
> 
> ...


It worked as it turned out it was the airhose lines hanging down to far and hitting the rerailers and the tops of the turnouts. I adjusted them according to my 
micro-trains height gauge. I'm actually impressed by the way she runs. All she needs now is a little faded paint, a light dust weathering and she'll be ready for service. 
Thanks for the advice MRTT75.


----------



## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

A&NRR said:


> My Bachmann is actually a Baldwin 2-8-0 consolidation


.

My first steamer (bought new about 20 years ago) was a Bachmann Spectrum 2-8-0. I still have it, and it still runs great. The Spectrum line was Bachmann's better quality line. They came in large black boxes with foam inserts. They also made less expensive locos that came in regular-sized boxes. Is yours a Spectrum?


----------



## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

I don't think so, it's in a blue box and just says Bachmann and "DCC on board" I bought it new about three years ago this is the first time I ever had it out of the box.


----------



## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

A&NRR said:


> I don't think so, it's in a blue box and just says Bachmann and "DCC on board" I bought it new about three years ago this is the first time I ever had it out of the box.


OK. In an earlier post in this thread, you said that this loco was advertised as "DCC-ready" -- which means that you would need to plug a DCC decoder into the socket located under the shell or in the tender in order to run it on a DCC layout. Since you said you have a DC layout, DCC-ready locos should run on it, because they do not have DCC decoders installed.

But in the post just above this one, you said the loco is advertised as "DCC on Board". This means that it should already have a DCC decoder installed. If so, then it may not run correctly on your DC layout.

So which is it? Or did you already have the DCC decoder removed? If you need help figuring this out, head over to the DCC forum and ask your questions there. I also run DC and know little about the nuts and bolts of DCC.


----------



## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

A&NRR said:


> I have about 8 dead loco's already in my graveyard.


You could call it the Zombie Railroad.


----------



## Area57 (Nov 8, 2015)

CTValleyRR said:


> That's also a stereotype. iPhones are made in China. Chinese people and factories are capable of making products to any level of quality. The problem is that, in the quest for lower prices, our importers are often not invoking the quality controls they should. When you do invoke controls (see iPhone), you get a quality product.
> 
> It's garbage because the people who issue contracts to Chinese factories allow it to be, not because there is inherently anything wrong with Chinese manufacturing.


The only time Chinese factories put out a decent product is when an American company goes over there, shows them exactly what to do, gives them the equipment and runs it like a slave labor camp. Have you seen the apple factory? They live there. We don't live in our factories. They had to install suicide netting. 

But besides all of that. Being someone who likes trains which are apart of Americana hiking good back and forth from you little town with your little factory. Whether China makes a decent product or not, we are still outsourcing all of our jobs. 

My little Kansas town from the 60's I'm building these days would have the factory shuttered, downtown closed, a Walmart and a strip of McDonald's, kfc, and Taco Bell on Main Street.


----------



## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Area57 said:


> My little Kansas town from the 60's I'm building these days would have the factory shuttered, downtown closed, a Walmart and a strip of McDonald's, kfc, and Taco Bell on Main Street.


What more could you want?


----------



## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

Now I'm confused, on the box it said both DCC ready and DCC on board. When I ran it, it ran just as smooth as all my analog engines. But after reading the small print on back of the box it states that it's wired and ready for a DCC decode to be installed. Maybe I should take off the body shell a see for myself. 
It runs great other than the headlight isn't very bright. COLOR]


----------



## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

Cycleops said:


> You could call it the Zombie Railroad.


Zombie Railroad, cool, maybe I can have bigfoot as an engineer. Like on a previous episode I can have the cast of Walking Dead in a boxcar.
After fighting the gremlin on my wiring issues earlier it feels like a zombie railroad.
actually on my future dream layout, I'm saving these dead locomotives for the engine terminal shops. I'm going to have the non-working ones heavily detailed in various stages of heavy rebuild/repair.


----------



## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Remove the coupler boxes and lift the shell. You should see an eight pin plug on top of the pcb as most newer Bachmanns use that. There will be a blanking plate in there which you remove and plug in the decoder of your choice. Simples.


----------



## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

Thanks Cycleops, I'll do that. It'll probably be the weekend when I get back in the train room again.


----------



## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

Cycleops said:


> Remove the coupler boxes and lift the shell. You should see an eight pin plug on top of the pcb as most newer Bachmanns use that. There will be a blanking plate in there which you remove and plug in the decoder of your choice. Simples.


A&NRR runs DC, so no need to remove the plug and install a decoder. In fact, since it runs on his DC layout, there is not really any reason to open the loco up -- unless he wants to clear up the confusing labelling on the box.


----------



## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

If it isn't broke I'm not fixing it, it runs great so if there's no real need to take it apart and take a chance of breaking something I'm leaving it be. I am running DC, it's such a small layout and already wired and working so I'm good. Thanks for everybody's help.


----------



## Area57 (Nov 8, 2015)

Having a few more trains and seen a few more I would say athearn is much nicer than bachmann. Same price too


----------



## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

A&NRR said:


> It runs great other than the headlight isn't very bright.


That is one of the small disadvantages of DC. The slower you run the loco the dimmer the light. Also, some lights are inherently brighter than others -- depending on what kind of bulb and lens they used.

I suggest that you address the loco's smooth running issues that we already talked about first.

Speaking of that, I have another question for you. Are there any wires connecting the loco to the tender? If so, we need to find out what they do. Start by looking at the bottom of the tender. Are the wheels metal or plastic? Are there electrical pick-ups on the tender wheels? They usually look like little sheets of brass that press up against the axils of the wheels.

If there are wires between the lock and the tender, but no metal wheels or electrical pick-ups on the tender, then the wires could be going to the DCC socket, which might be in the tender.

If there are wires between the loco and the tender, and the wheels are metal, and they have pick-ups, then it is possible that the tender wheels are being used to pick up the power for the loco, (but not always -- I have one loco where all the tender pickups do is power the back-up light on the tender.) The easiest way to check this is to run your loco slowly. While running it, gently lift the front of the loco -- so that the drivers lose contact with the track -- but leave the tender on the track. If the drivers spin in the air, then the tender is powering the loco.

This info will help in diagnosing your running problems with this loco.


----------



## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

There is a wiring plug that goes between the engine and tender. The tender does have metal wheels. with no back-up light on the tender. I'll do a more closer inspection this evening on the underside of both units.


----------



## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

A&NRR said:


> There is a wiring plug that goes between the engine and tender. The tender does have metal wheels. with no back-up light on the tender. I'll do a more closer inspection this evening on the underside of both units.


Given the plastic wheels, it is most likely that the wires go to the DCC socket in the tender.

If you are still interested in solving this loco's running issues, when you get the chance, look at my suggestions back in post #24, and leet me know what you find out.


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Area57 said:


> Having a few more trains and seen a few more I would say athearn is much nicer than bachmann. Same price too


From a pure appearance sake, I would give Athearn the nod over Bachmann too. Also for prototypical fidelity. 

From a mechanical point of view, it's a dead heat. I might even give Bachmann the edge, because all the Athearns we have a noisier.


----------



## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

I inspected the engine last night. it does have the electrical pickups on the tender that does do to a DCC plug inside the tender. the engine also has metal wheels with pick-ups that actually run the can motor inside the engine. I ran it a while last night in both directions, the more it ran the smoother and better it got. It's been sitting for 3 years maybe it just needed to be broken in.:dunno:


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Like any mechanical device, a model locomotive needs a couple of hours operation to wear in the parts.


----------



## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

I have an Athearn F-7 A&B unit wearing Daylight colors. One of my favorite loco's. It squeals like a cat playing an out of tune fiddle in heat. I don't run it for that reason alone.


----------



## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I don't run tyco locos any more, but when I did and they would squeal, I would put
a very small drop of oil on the motor shaft where it comes out of motor, both sides
of the motor. The squeal would completely go away. You might try that on your
athearn. It would be worth a try.


----------



## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

Thanks MOPAC I will. I love running my S.P. Daylights. I only wish I had a big enough layout with broad curves to run my Daylight GS-4 steam engine.


----------



## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

A&NRR said:


> I inspected the engine last night. it does have the electrical pickups on the tender that does do to a DCC plug inside the tender. the engine also has metal wheels with pick-ups that actually run the can motor inside the engine. I ran it a while last night in both directions, the more it ran the smoother and better it got. It's been sitting for 3 years maybe it just needed to be broken in.:dunno:


OK. ignore my previous comment -- I misread your post (old eyes) regarding the plastic vs metal wheels.

It sounds like the loco is running better now. But Mopac makes a good point. All locos need to be lubricated periodically -- maybe once year -- more frequently if you are running it for lots of hours. But don't use just any oil. Petroleum-based oils can damage plastic parts. I (and many others) use Labelle lubricants. They are synthetic and will not damage your plastic parts.


----------



## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

Thanks MTRR, where can I get some of that lube? Several of my Athearns are starting to squeal. All of them need some maintance,


----------



## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Any local hobby shop that sells trains would have it or any
online train stores carry it. As you get the oil get some gear lube also.
I have used oil and gear grease marketed for fishing reels.
Most reels have some plastic gears in them so it won't harm
train gears.


----------



## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

Cool beans, thanks. The sad part about going to my local hobby shop is that there is no more local hobby shops. The closest one is way on the other side of Houston which is about 45 minutes away. Anyone know of a good on-line hobby store. They're are several Academy sporting goods store around me.


----------



## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

any Hobby Lobbys near by? I think they carry Labelle lubes.


----------



## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

Yes there's one about 10 minutes from here. Need to go there anyway to get some more Woodland Scenics mold-a-scene plaster. Thanks


----------



## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

They sell slot cars and a little train stuff. They will have it.
There you go.

Go to HobbyLobby.com and print off the 40% off one item coupon.


----------



## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

One thing in my favor is my wife loves going there as well. I always look at the models, and what little train stuff they do have.


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

A&NRR said:


> Anyone know of a good on-line hobby store.


There are quite a few. My favorite is MB Klein, dba Model Train Stuff (www.modeltrainstuff.com).


----------



## FRED On Board (Jan 2, 2014)

A&NRR...

Have you visited Larry's Hobbies in the strip center that is at the Southeast Corner of I-45 North and FM1960? ...When I lived in Spring a decade ago they were a major model trains shop with an extensive inventory and may still have a model RR area...Certainly Labelle lubricants would be available there.

FWIW


----------



## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

I've spent a lot of money at Larry's Hobbies, Todd the guy that use to run the train dept. quit a few years ago. After that the train dept. went down the tubes. Larry's closed for good about 6 months ago. I miss it cause now there are no hobby shops with trains in North Houston. Matter of fact the only one I know of anywhere in Houston that is still open is in Rice Village, (the older part of town). They been there since 1947, they have a great train section.


FRED On Board said:


> A&NRR...
> 
> Have you visited Larry's Hobbies in the strip center that is at the Southeast Corner of I-45 North and FM1960? ...When I lived in Spring a decade ago they were a major model trains shop with an extensive inventory and may still have a model RR area...Certainly Labelle lubricants would be available there.
> 
> FWIW


----------



## FRED On Board (Jan 2, 2014)

A&NRR said:


> I've spent a lot of money at Larry's Hobbies, Todd the guy that use to run the train dept. quit a few years ago. After that the train dept. went down the tubes. Larry's closed for good about 6 months ago. I miss it cause now there are no hobby shops with trains in North Houston. Matter of fact the only one I know of anywhere in Houston that is still open is in Rice Village, (the older part of town). They been there since 1947, they have a great train section.


That's disappointing...Nearly twenty years ago when Mark was the trains section manager at Larry's, the inventory and the atmosphere was great...He was very knowledgeable and very helpful without any pressure to purchase...As with you, I spent a considerable amount of money there putting together my HO layout as a return to the hobby after several decades of absence.

I knew about the train store in Rice Village but don't recall ever visiting that one...Other trains shops I visited and made purchases from in the mid- to late 1990's were on Loop 610 South near the Astrodome that was ALL trains and on HWY 290 just inside BW-8.

I've read here at MTF and other sources about hobby shops closing all across the nation and the Houston area is apparently no exception...Here in Austin there is still a formidable shop known as Kings Hobbies and among the other hobby shops in this area, that is, for all practical purposes the only one I am aware of that has a comprehensive inventory to include the model RR hobby.


----------



## A&NRR (Aug 2, 2015)

Yea it's sad, a town this big and no decent where to go hang out to shop and talk trains. They're all gone, the one on 290 was called "Runaway Trains" I believe. I've been there several times and left with lighter pockets every time, lol. Back in the early '80's Michael's up in Humble had an enormous train dept. I've been to Kings Hobby's years ago, I really liked it. Back in the day I'd go to Larry's just to go to converse with others and get the low down of train shows coming to town. Sometimes I think we're a dying breed, hopefully I'm wrong.


----------

