# Our Post War NYC F3 2344 Diesel Set Restoration



## Bloodhound (Dec 2, 2012)

I've decided to start a new thread detailing the complete frame Off restoration of our Post War NYC F3 2343 Diesel Set. A big thank-you goes out to all the members here fpr their help so far. Being new to trains I fell HARD for the "Full Service" at the local Lionel authorized dealer. The powered A and B units sat in my father in laws basement for the last 58 years. As it turns out the set was no more ready for use after 2weeks in the shop than it was out of the rotted mildew stained box.......





































I bought this non powered dummy A on ebay to complete the set.......


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## Bloodhound (Dec 2, 2012)

To make a long story short, we got the powered A back from the shop and expected hours of fun filled running. A week later we hear an ungodly grinding sound and the party was over. Turned out to be a loose drive wheel. Upon closer inspection of the trucks all of the axle bushings are excessively worn. Lack of lubrication rusted up a worm gear shaft and the motors were filthy.....


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Bloodhound, love the the posts and the got to get it done approach.( I have the same problem) . The cars look great . The one thing I'm learning about trains the is the more I learn the less I know!


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## Bloodhound (Dec 2, 2012)

After speaking to several forum members here as well as Jeff Kane at the traintender I decided to do this once and do it right. Hopefully any newbies out there can benefit from this thread down the road! Here's a breakdown of the initial parts order which arrived today from the traintender...

PART NUMBER DESCRIPTION QTY PRICE EXTEND 
>> 2343-33 flanged solid back wheel new LIONEL 8 2.00 16.00 
>> 2344-PDG NYC F3 dark gray pint 1/2 pint can 1 9.00 9.00 
>> 2353-29 magnetic axle assy knurled 4 5.00 20.00 
>> 2333-44 worm shaft assembly 2 10.00 20.00 
>> 2333-65 worm shaft bearing reproduction 4 2.00 8.00 
>> 2343-79 axle bearing for magnetic axles 8 0.75 6.00 
>> 2343-37 brass worm gear fits mag axle 4 2.50 10.00 
>> 2333-25 window shell F3 clear 2 2.00 4.00 
>> 480-18B black horseshoe washer 4 0.20 0.80 
>> 622-121 slotted diesel/steam mtr brush each 4 0.60 2.40 
>> 622-134 collector assy complete LIMITED 1 17.50 17.50 
>> 167-20 speed nut 2 0.35 0.70 
>> 2333-115 battery swivel plate rivet 1 0.50 0.50 
>> 2333-23 rear ladder 2 holes "A" unit 1 1.50 1.50 
>> 2332-7 horn & bracket assy repro 4 1.50 6.00 
>> 2354-PLG NYC F3 light gray pint 1/2 pint can 1 9.00 9.00 
>> 2333-11 F3 headlight lens clear 2 0.50 1.00 
>> 
>> SUBTOTAL 132.40 
>> TAX 9.93 
>> SHIPPING 8.77 
>> TOTAL 151.10


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## peterbilt379 (Jan 4, 2013)

Hey bloodhound. I live only 50 miles south of you....rob


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

WOW, you're going "all in" on the repair!  That set will be good for at least another 50 years after the rebuild!


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## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

cant wait to see the finished product im a big nyc buff. did you get new decals as well?


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## santafe158 (Jul 14, 2010)

Going to have a brand new engine by the time you're done with the repairs 

One thing though, are you going to completely repaint them or just do touch ups? While I have nothing against it, I might reconsider repainting the family pieces. That wear and tear is part of the history. If that's not a worry, go for it. They'll look great when you finish up.


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## Bloodhound (Dec 2, 2012)

sjm9911 said:


> Bloodhound, love the the posts and the got to get it done approach.( I have the same problem) . The cars look great . The one thing I'm learning about trains the is the more I learn the less I know!


Amen to that! :laugh:

The game plan is simple. Complete restoration. I'd like my son (who will eventually own them) to appreciate them and develop a concern for keeping them nice by seeing what it takes to refurbish them. Involving him is just another excuse for me to spend time with him anyway!

We're going to completely repaint the set, adding new decals at the end along with new horns, windsheilds and portholes. I very much like the paint scheme on the repopped century set. The wheel guards however are going back to grey, not black like the repops.

Once the trucks are broken down I'll be running them through my parts tumbler with fine grit glass beads along with the wheel covers and a few other miscellaneous parts. The next step is to apply a coat of black oxide then reassemble with new collector assembly etc. Frames will be stripped and repainted followed by a going through of the motors, E-unit, horn etc. Last but not least comes the complete repainting of the shells. I'll be adding a high gloss coat afterward as that is my preference. I'm also toying around with adding a light to the B unit. We'll just have to wait and see. This is what we're after.............


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I look forward to seeing how this restoration goes, it's an ambitious project.


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## santafe158 (Jul 14, 2010)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I look forward to seeing how this restoration goes, it's an ambitious project.


It certainly is. That is a set of locomotives I wouldn't mind having. I really like that paint scheme


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

santafe158 said:


> It certainly is. That is a set of locomotives I wouldn't mind having. I really like that paint scheme


I think they're going to be expensive after all the labor and parts.


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## rrbill (Mar 11, 2012)

I admire your thorough approach to this restoration. We hope you'll let us, in a manner of speaking, look over your shoulder via photos as you progress.
I imagine you enjoy the Hitchcock movie North by Northwest which features NYC passenger trains in this livery.


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## Bloodhound (Dec 2, 2012)

rrbill said:


> I admire your thorough approach to this restoration. We hope you'll let us, in a manner of speaking, look over your shoulder via photos as you progress.


Absolutely. I'll need help along the way for certain. The nose on the powered A is chipped and there are a few gouges here and there. Not sure how to approach that or what to use to fill and reshape.

I'm one of those people who wanted it done yesterday so consistency to purpose is what its all about. Definitely an ambitious project like John said. Hopefully, we won't fall short of our expectations and yours! :laugh:


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

JB Weld is your friend for fixing shells. You mentioned paint, so I'm assuming you are repainting?


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## Bloodhound (Dec 2, 2012)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> JB Weld is your friend for fixing shells. You mentioned paint, so I'm assuming you are repainting?


Thank-You and Yes, repainting the entire set. I bought paint from Jeff at the traintender and will be "pinstriping" and lettering in white by hand.


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

As GRJ said, JB weld is your friend. Along with traditional fillers for minor areas. Spot putty for shallow scratches, bondo for somewhat deeper imperfections. With the past experience you have restoring cars it will be second nature. You must have some really good hands to attempt hand lettering, I'd be one to procure ready made lettering myself  Use care when selecting a stripper, make sure it's plastic safe, or the shells will literally melt. 

Carl


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## Bloodhound (Dec 2, 2012)

Thanks Carl will do.


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## Bloodhound (Dec 2, 2012)

We had a rough day today with a series of dissapointments but lessons learned when all was said and done. I realised that all but one of the replacement wheels from the train tender had slots for the knurled truck axles. Not sure if he sent me the wrong ones or what? I pressed that one wheel on as I wanted to test a lithium based grease I thought would be ideal for the trucks. Sadly, it is WAY to thick and slowed the chassis down to a crawl when tested.

I tried a dielectric silicone based grease on the other truck and it moves much better. So what did we learn? A thinner grease would be even better so it looks like white lithium will be used for final assembly as one or two members here have recommended.

I do have a question with regard to lubricating the armatures. I lubed the shafts and bearings but don't know if the face, surrounding body and brushes require lubricating. Anyone? Also, how loose do I want the motor bolts to the frame? I noticed the tighter they are the less movement the trucks have from side to side.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Let me suggest you use 5W-20/30 motor oil for lubing everything. It will never dry out or get hard or gummy. It will not slow down the loco by being too thick. I have one loco that I put in the closet in 1965. It was lubed with Valvoline 20W-40. When I put it on the track about 3 years ago, it ran fine and did not need to be lubed. I wouldn't use anything but motor oil unless I had test data on the lube. I have two Alco diesels on my layout right now. One of them is pulling 15 cars at less than 10 volts from the transformer. I have a 2065 steamer that also will pull the 17 cars at about 10 volts. I don't know how many cars the Alcos will pull as more than 17 cars won't stay on the track going around the curves. I have a 2333 that will start at about 7.5 volts and will pull more cars than will stay on the track. I oil everything, including the commutator. Oiling the commutator reduces the motor friction as most of the friction comes from the commutator.


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## Bloodhound (Dec 2, 2012)

Thanks Servoguy. Dealing with a newbie here. What and where is the commutator? How do you lube it exactly? How about the armature?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Bloodhound said:


> Also, how loose do I want the motor bolts to the frame? I noticed the tighter they are the less movement the trucks have from side to side.


I doubt you want the motors loose! I don't have that particular locomotive, but I've never left any motor mounting bolts loose.


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