# HO Track Suggestion



## Phillies (Aug 3, 2018)

I'm looking for some nice track for a static train display I'm making. Although it could turn into a working set in the future. I saw Amazon has the Atlas True Track. Its seems pretty nice looking. Would that be good or is there anything else that might be nicer looking ?

Thanks


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

What would look nicer would be Atlas flex track and ballast it yourself.
By nicer I mean more real looking. And cheaper.

Welcome to forum.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

If realism is no object, then TruTrack is a fine choice.

All of the plastic roadbed tracks, including TruTrack, suffer from the same drawback -- their roadbed looks like what it is: textured plastic. Kato's Unitrack is a step up -- the texture is coarser and they use multiple colors, but it's still not going to fool anyone.

A couple of pieces of flex track and some cork or foam roadbed, with real or fake gravel ballast, would look much better. It would most likely be cheaper, too.


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## Gramps (Feb 28, 2016)

I'm using Unitrack and it's great. Kato also sells ballast for the Unitrack.


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

Of all the "pre-fab", snap-together track, Kato is probably the best...


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## Phillies (Aug 3, 2018)

Ok, thanks 🙂


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Although I have a feeling that the last two replies were more commenting on the quality of the product in general and not it's suitability for a static diorama.


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## Gramps (Feb 28, 2016)

He mentions in his OP that it may become an operating layout at some point.


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## danpuckett (Dec 31, 2014)

I am using HO Unitrack and really like it. I change the layout often and was having a hard time with Atlas and Peco flex track. Nothing wrong with the product; just my level of skills.


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## SantaFeJim (Sep 8, 2015)

My personal preference, Peco code 83. :thumbsup:


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## Atsf1964 (Dec 9, 2017)

*Good General Use HO Track*

Ok, I know this has probably been covered 100x and I have tried to "search" for results but since time is a valuable commodity, I'm going to ask anyway.

I'm going to build an HO layout and want to use a track that is good and one that I can stick with buying to make sure all the sections are of the same quality, size, etc... I am going to use cork/bed, so I don't want the plastic all-in-one pieces. 

Also, I'm not skilled enough, as of now, to use actual flexible track.

So what is a good track to use? Not too expensive not too cheap qulaity wise? Code 83...

How about Atlas? Kato? Pecos?


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## D&J Railroad (Oct 4, 2013)

I think the first thing to determine is: How real do you want your railroad to look?
For some, snap track on the carpet is good enough.
For others, plywood world will suffice with a few dolls placed around the layout as potential passengers, then the laundry starts stacking up on the table.
Still for others, scenery will include hand made trees, contoured land with coloring, backdrops, signaling, #10 turnouts and computer control.
So, to the OP, what are your intentions as far as detail is concerned?


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

If you decide to use Kato Unitrack, check my post here:
https://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=174100

I recommend using the manual turnouts (either #4 or #6) instead of the powered ones.


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## Atsf1964 (Dec 9, 2017)

Ken, thanks, and yes, I want it to look real, plywood with cork board, scenery to scale, etc. So I guess I'm looking for high quality track but not some esoteric track that is hand made and crafted with the ties from actual train ties (widdled and scaled down) and the rails from actual rail steel (melted and reshaped)! just kidding...haha


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## Atsf1964 (Dec 9, 2017)

Thanks J.Albert. It looks like the Unitrack includes the roadbed, right? Not saying that's bad but just wondering if the cork or Homasote is more realistic?


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Kato Unitrack is about as good as it gets for prefab stuff, but you can also apply extra ballast to enhance it.
I have a Unitrack test-track, made up of parallel 14-inch double-lengths (= 28") on a Plexiglas base.
This is what Unitrack looks like as-is, without extra ballast added.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Realistic looking track*



Atsf1964 said:


> Ken, thanks, and yes, I want it to look real, plywood with cork board, scenery to scale, etc. So I guess I'm looking for high quality track but not some esoteric track that is hand made and crafted with the ties from actual train ties (widdled and scaled down) and the rails from actual rail steel (melted and reshaped)! just kidding...haha


Atsf1964;

I know you're thinking in terms of sectional track, without roadbed attached. However I'm going to suggest a brand of flex track because of it's fantastically realistic appearance, and high quality. Flex track is really not hard to use, and it gives you the freedom to make whatever curve you want rather than only the limited curves available with sectional track. In the long run, I think you, like so many of us, will get more lasting satisfaction with excellent flex track than with just OK sectional track. Many modelers who start with sectional track end up switching to flex track later, loosing money and wasted effort/time, in the process of ripping out sectional track and then re-designing their layouts a bit to change to the wider curves and greater realism possible with flex track. So why not use flex track in the first place? It does not require any great level of skill. Just about anybody can lay flex track. Flex track is also a bit less expensive, per-foot, than sectional track, and way less than roadbed track.

I use Micro Engineering Code 55 Flex track. I model in N-scale, but Micro Engineering makes their track in HO-scale too. The code 55 part means that the rails are 55/1000ths" high. For HO-scale you may want to use a higher code, something in the code 70 to code 83 range. 
I like the Micro Engineering track because it has super-realistic looking ties, tie plates, and spikes, molded right in. (No hand laying with separate ties, rails, and spikes necessary! :laugh The track holds whatever curve you bend it to, rather than snapping back to straight when you let go of it, as other brands do. Some like this feature and others don't. Bending it to a curve requires bending a few inches at a time and some going back to adjust the curve. This "advanced, special skill" can be learned in about five minutes of working with the track, so it's no big deal. Micro engineering track does not have the grossly oversize holes in the center of the ties that accommodate grossly oversize, and soon to rust, track nails. Instead you glue it down. Small dabs of latex caulk every few inches make an excellent (and removable if necessary) glue. You can use caulk to glue your cork roadbed down too. Either track, or roadbed, can be held in place with weights or pins until the caulk sets up.

I hope you will look at, and consider using, Micro Engineering flex track. I think you will like it as I do.

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## Atsf1964 (Dec 9, 2017)

Thanks everyone! I'm going to look at the flex track and Unitrack.


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## Atsf1964 (Dec 9, 2017)

So I'm loking at about $2.00 foot, eh? Dang, lots of has changed over the years, a lot of years I guess!


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

I agree with Traction_fan, I think ME code 83 flextrack is what you really want to use. I use CV ties (http://www.cvmw.com/ and ME rail and glue the rail to the ties, but if your just starting, stick to flex track and use a nice clear silicone caulk to glue the flextrack to the roadbed. As an alternative to cork you might consider Homosote from here https://cascaderailsupply.com/pages/frontpage


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Atsf1964 said:


> Ok, I know this has probably been covered 100x and I have tried to "search" for results but since time is a valuable commodity, I'm going to ask anyway.
> 
> I'm going to build an HO layout and want to use a track that is good and one that I can stick with buying to make sure all the sections are of the same quality, size, etc... I am going to use cork/bed, so I don't want the plastic all-in-one pieces.
> 
> ...


Well, you're right, time is a valuable commodity. Most of us reply because we enjoy helping others, but keep in mind that you ARE asking us to spend OUR valuable time on a reply.

I'm also going to call BS on the "I'm not skilled enough to use flex track." Sure you are. It's no harder than sectional track; it just requires a little more attention to detail.

I agree with the recommendation for MicroEngineering flex track. It's the best looking track out there, and once you curve it, it stays curved, so it's very easy to shape. You may want to pick up a curve template in the desired radius to help you get nice, smooth curves.


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## Atsf1964 (Dec 9, 2017)

Ok, I will probably go with the ME track. How about the Woodland Scenic foam tracked?


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## Atsf1964 (Dec 9, 2017)

Point well taken CT regarding your and everyone elses valuable time!


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

I just laid my first ME flex track today and it sure does look good.
It also matches up with Peco turnouts nicely.
Get the ME code 83 rail joiners not Atlas, they are too big.
Get the plain ME track not the weathered, harder to work with.

One thing I do to help with laying any track in code 83 is to use T50 staples 
to hold the track till I get everything running good.
This will not work with WS foam roadbed, not strong enough to hold the staples. Cork roadbed only.

The T50 staples will just fit over two of the ties and I put them in right against the outside of the rails. 
This will hold very strong till you get it all good to go.
You can run trains with the staples to test everything and if changes are needed the staples are easy to pull out.
When you ballast the track that will glue it down and the staples can be removed.

It's a very good idea to get some radius gauges such as Ribbon Rail to lay the curves. 
They are also very helpful in soldering the track joints.

I would also suggest putting 1 inch foam insulating board over the plywood.
The pink or blue stuff not the white Styrofoam board. 
It makes everything so much easier to do, you than can use track nails to hold your cork roadbed for easier changes when needed. 
Push the the nails in at different angles to hold better, just a few degrees will do. 
45° into the bevels and more or less straight in the inside edge.
When you ballast the track that will glue down the roadbed.
Very helpful when you are learning how to lay flex track. It's worth the extra cost in my opinion. 

Magic


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## Dennis461 (Jan 5, 2018)

Hijacked?


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Magic said:


> I just laid my first ME flex track today and it sure does look good.
> It also matches up with Peco turnouts nicely.
> Get the ME code 83 rail joiners not Atlas, they are too big.
> Get the plain ME track not the weathered, harder to work with.
> ...


Good point about the ME rail joiners. Definitely use those vice Atlas.

I personally use WS foam roadbed. I find it easier to work with than cork.

As far as holding stuff in place, I just tack it down with a dab of hot glue every 3 feet or so.. That's plenty strong enough to hold things in place while you test. Because this is ME flex track, it's not trying to spring back to straight on you.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Dennis461 said:


> Hijacked?


How so? We're still talking about HO track selection.


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## Rook (Nov 5, 2017)

Magic said:


> I just laid my first ME flex track today and it sure does look good.
> It also matches up with Peco turnouts nicely.
> Get the ME code 83 rail joiners not Atlas, they are too big.
> Get the plain ME track not the weathered, harder to work with.
> ...


This sounds like a good system.


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## Atsf1964 (Dec 9, 2017)

Magic, thanks. I'm going to place and order in the next day or two and, so far, going with the ME Code 83 Flex track, below track bed, and the ME joiners. I'm assuming the ME turnouts are as good as any other?

https://www.walthers.com/track-bed-roadbed-material-2-60cm-pkg-36


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Atsf1964 said:


> Magic, thanks. I'm going to place and order in the next day or two and, so far, going with the ME Code 83 Flex track, below track bed, and the ME joiners. I'm assuming the ME turnouts are as good as any other?
> 
> https://www.walthers.com/track-bed-roadbed-material-2-60cm-pkg-36


As good as any, and better than most!


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

I've never used ME turnouts but haven't ever heard anything bad about them.

I used Peco turnouts and they fit just fine with ME flex track.

One word of caution, the ME flex track is a bit one the fragile side so handle with care.

Magic


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