# Tyco cars



## Uncle Red (Jul 26, 2017)

Hello all, after some 45 years I am getting back into the Hobby. I was given a lot of older track and cars, including some 50 Tyco cars (many still in the box) with the old horn couplers. I have been told by some that it is cheaper to buy new cars than to try and retrofit old ones with wheels and couplers. Since I am using DCC, my engines are new. I would like to try and at least change the couplers to the new ones. I can live with the plastic wheels for right now.
Does anyone know if this can be done, and if so what new couplers will work on the older cars? Seems like a waist not to try and utilize at least some of the cars.

Thanks!


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## DavefromMD (Jul 25, 2013)

One of the problems with Tyco cars is that the couplers are truck mounted instead of mounted on the car body. This leads to derailment more often than not when you back up the train.

You can get replacement knuckle couplers that will work, but it can be a pain to make the change.
https://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page9.htm

What you could do is convert one end of a couple of the cars so you can connect them to the knuckle couple on the locomotive, then connect the rest of the horn hook cars to the other end of the converted "half and half" car.


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

My opinion only, but you'd do better to start building up a collection of better cars, a few at a time, with body-mounted couplers (Kadees are the best).

They'll look better, too.


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## Dennis461 (Jan 5, 2018)

J.Albert1949 said:


> My opinion only, but you'd do better to start building up a collection of better cars, a few at a time, with body-mounted couplers (Kadees are the best).
> 
> They'll look better, too.


Sounds like reasonable advice, better cars.

If on the other hand, you want to experiment, there are two ways (at least 2) to go.

Kadee offers a replacement system for the TALGO couplers, so you get knuckle couplers into the TYCO truck. I've done it, not rocket science and fair results.

I've also cut off the truck couplers and mounted KADEE #5 or better yet #148 to the frames, you usually need to glue a plastic shim to get a flat area to mount the KADEE coupler box.

Now coupler height is important, and shimming the truck up or down is virtually impossible with the 'snap in' TYCO trucks.

I've also replaced the trucks, but that's where it become a waste of money compared to buying better cars.

Oh wait a minute, a hobby by definition is a waste of money


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

There's nothing wrong with Tyco train cars that a
little relaxing bench time won't solve. They're not
going to win prizes but when you weather them a
bit and put them in a train no one will know how
cheap they are. I got most at train shows for about
4.00 each. 

I don't know how many I have on my layout, they
are many, and all have been upgraded with Kadee,
mostly, #148 body mount couplers. I've replaced
the plastic wheels on some also.

Just nip off the ugly Talgos and be glad they're gone.

Be sure to have a Kadee coupler alignment gauge. 
It will tell you if you need to shim or file the body
for the Kadee draft box. Most don't require any
adjustments.

Don


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## Uncle Red (Jul 26, 2017)

Thank you for all the advice, you have given me a lot to think about. I will start collecting new cars, as well as playing around with a couple of the older cars and see what happens! 

Thanks again!


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## Stan D (Feb 1, 2019)

Probably the only piece of Tyco rolling stock I have is one of my favorites. It's a Caboose with a working spotlight, Burlington Northern colors. Almost picked up the PRR version, but I didn't have the cash on me. I may go back.


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## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

I've got a fair number of Tyco and similar cars and have had good luck using the stock truck mounted (Talgo) coupler box with Kadee #148 couplers and the #212 Talgo adaptor covers. The #212 pack of 24 covers is just a few bucks. 

If you find that the couplers aren't the right height you can then go ahead and install body mounted boxes for the couplers but I wouldn't bother unless they start giving you trouble.

It isn't a bad idea either to leave some batches of cars (maybe your coal hoppers) with the old horn hook couplers and just use a transition car (Kadee at one end horn hook on the other) between your coal drag and the engine. A transition car will at least let you play around with the cars as they are before upgrading them.

Lastly, a micro mark truck tuner will do wonders for getting cheapo trucks rolling better. It's a must have tool.


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## Uncle Red (Jul 26, 2017)

Thanks again for all the great advice! I am going to attempt to update a few of the cars and see how it goes! At least I could use them while I am collecting new cars. I can also use some of the cars to practice weathering on.

Thanks Again Everyone!


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## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

Uncle Red said:


> Thanks again for all the great advice! I am going to attempt to update a few of the cars and see how it goes! At least I could use them while I am collecting new cars. I can also use some of the cars to practice weathering on.
> 
> Thanks Again Everyone!


Sounds like a plan!

Three other things to point out when using the #212 adapters. 

First, the opening of many Talgo mounted coupler boxes have a tab on one or both sides. This helps keep the Horn-Hook coupler centered, but you'll want to trim it/them out so the whiskers on the 148 lay appropriately. 

Second, I'm sure it works well, but I've never found a need for the #230 "Adapter insertion pic" that Kadee sells for use installing the #212 adapters.

Third, if you are going to put the #148's in the Talgos, you don't need the coupler boxes so it may be worthwhile to buy the bulk packs (25 or 50 pairs per pack) of them which don't include coupler boxes but come at a significant savings per-coupler.

Lastly, the Truck Tuner I use is Micro Mark Item #: 82838. 

Some cars may require mounting the couplers to the body with a coupler box and if you end up running very long trains maybe they eventually all will. However with the #212's and #148's and by tuning the trucks I've been able to put alot of cheap cars on the rails running quite well with surprisingly little cost or time invested.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

My favorite car that I am basing my layout design around is the Tyco operating hopper car. I have somewhere around 50 of them on hand now, but I've also done conversions on a few other Tyco cars.

My own suggestion would be to also get rid of the original plastic trucks. Kadee makes some great metal trucks and wheels which can be fitted to the Tyco bodies fairly easily. Some cars will have a proper screw hole to attach the new truck, but most of them will have a large hole where a clip in the center of the truck attached it to the body. For those, use some sprue material from models to fill the hole, then drill and tap it for a #2-56 screw to hold the metal trucks.

I've also found many of the cars have a nearly flat spot under the body where a knuckle coupler can be properly mounted. At worst, maybe knock off a little detail with a file to get the coupler to sit flat. As mentioned, the height of the coupler is critical, so get yourself a height gauge to check the fit before you glue anything down. In the case of my hopper cars (which have a metal undercarriage), the mounting point is just a bit high, but a strip of 0.010" styrene under the coupler brings it down to the right height.

The end result is a car with a little more weight, but a much more realistic look to it, and the metal wheels make a very satisfying sound as they go across joints in the track. It costs about $8-9 per car to perform the upgrade, but what is the price of nostalgia for seeing those old cars back on the track again and running smoother than ever?


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## Stumpy (Mar 19, 2013)

Good info here, as I have several older Tyco/Mantua cars that I need to upgrade.


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## trenes115 (Dec 9, 2011)

At a club's open house, I saw a member with a large fleet of Tyco hopper cars. He had repainted some and added details in addition to changing wheels and couplers. Made for a couple of nice looking trains to serve an industry on the layout. In my opinion there are a number of Tyco car models that can be quite useful after a bit of work.




Shdwdrgn said:


> My favorite car that I am basing my layout design around is the Tyco operating hopper car. I have somewhere around 50 of them on hand now, but I've also done conversions on a few other Tyco cars.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Shdwdrgn

:appl:

Like I've been saying, you can take these cheap
cars, often as low as 4.00 at train shows and
do a little work on 'em. The result is a car that
will take it's place in your trains and no one will
be the wiser that it was made to be a 'toy'.

I've upgraded a bunch of them.

Don


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

I actually put quite a lot of work into my hoppers. I've redesigned them to fit a turn of the century crossover from the original wooden hoppers, so they have steel sides but still have the hand-cranked wheels on the side of the car to open the chutes. They also have a drop-center which nicely hides the clamshell doors. As part of the drop center I remove the center three ribs and replace them with two hand-made ribs to change the spacing for the crank wheels. Once a new coat of paint goes on it looks pretty seamless.

If anyone is interested, I have some pics posted on my website... http://sourpuss.net/projects/trains/coal_cars/2015-11-27/


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

Shdwdrgn said:


> If anyone is interested, I have some pics posted on my website... http://sourpuss.net/projects/trains/coal_cars/2015-11-27/



thanks for the link ...


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## 89Suburban (Jan 4, 2017)

DavefromMD said:


> What you could do is convert one end of a couple of the cars so you can connect them to the knuckle couple on the locomotive, then connect the rest of the horn hook cars to the other end of the converted "half and half" car.


^^^This. :appl:


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## jimben (Jun 27, 2018)

For the most part Kadee model #28 fit newer plastic TYCO. I think about 1980 and newer. Buy one Kadee at first to verify as Kadee stated #27 will fit when #28 does not.


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## leadsled (Dec 25, 2014)

Shdwdrgn said:


> I actually put quite a lot of work into my hoppers. I've redesigned them to fit a turn of the century crossover from the original wooden hoppers, so they have steel sides but still have the hand-cranked wheels on the side of the car to open the chutes. They also have a drop-center which nicely hides the clamshell doors. As part of the drop center I remove the center three ribs and replace them with two hand-made ribs to change the spacing for the crank wheels. Once a new coat of paint goes on it looks pretty seamless.
> 
> If anyone is interested, I have some pics posted on my website... http://sourpuss.net/projects/trains/coal_cars/2015-11-27/


Those look real nice Shwdrgn!


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## Dennis461 (Jan 5, 2018)

So, I stroll through my local large parking lot flea market this weekend and a guy is selling a big box of train stuff for $30. Inside is an Athearn supergeared dual flywheel heavy weighted F7, Southern pacific. That alone is worth the money in my opinion. Also 15+ 'toy' train cars, sectional track, turnouts, buildings and tiny people.

Now, a video of one of the Tyco cars on my layout


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

leadsled said:


> Those look real nice Shwdrgn!


Thanks! That's just one car so far. I have seven more cleaned and with the new drop-sides and ribs in place, still have to replace the ladders and stirrups, and get the vertical brake shaft set up. It's a lot of work so I just poke at them every now and then. 30 of them will get this type of conversion, the rest are collection pieces. Counting the variations in paint over the years, there are at least 14 different styles, and I have at least one of each with original trucks. Still need to make a display case for them.


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