# Wiring of AF 282



## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

I just received a 282 and boy was it dirty! However, it did not run. I expected that. I am a little confused as to the wiring. It must be a later version with the 5th wire. There is a 5th wire that goes from the jack panel directly to the smoke unit/lamp as expected. The wiring is correct to the jack panel with 4 wires. The problem is that the tender only has 3 wires in one braided wrap and 1 wire in an other braided wrap. Questions: 1) Why not 4 wires as in the wiring diagram. 2) could this not be the correct tender?:dunno: I know that Mopac or Cramden knows!


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Broke, I just bought another 282 also. But have not got it yet. You know I have a 282
already. It does not have a 5th wire. The new one coming has the white paint inside
the smokestack. All the flyers with the white smokestack I have seen have the 5th wire.
From the pics I do not know if the one coming has a 5th wire. My 282 is a 1952 model.
The one coming is a 1953. AF started the white smokestack and 5th wire in 1953. The 
locomotives are wired different if 4 wire or 5 wire, and of coarse the plug is wired differently. Here is what I would do. Get you a new wire harness and decide if you want 4 wire or 5 wire and follow that diagram you show. You can do either. But not a combination. Make sure plug and loco are wired correctly. Congrats on the 282. I love
mine. Have had it since I was 5 years old, train was 3 years old when I got it from an uncle.Hope this helps.

Broke, the 52 model will have metal tender and the 53 model will have plastic to the best of my knowledge.
My 282 has metal tender, one coming has plastic tender.


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

mopac said:


> Broke, I just bought another 282 also. But have not got it yet. You know I have a 282
> already. It does not have a 5th wire. The new one coming has the white paint inside
> the smokestack. All the flyers with the white smokestack I have seen have the 5th wire.
> From the pics I do not know if the one coming has a 5th wire. My 282 is a 1952 model.
> ...


Mine is April 1952 and has no white in the smoke stack. Flyernut is sending me a 5th wire plug. I suppose that I will have to change out the 3 wire cable with a 4 wire cable plus Flyernuts great invention!:hah: But why only 3 wires from the tender plus the 5th wire to the smoke unit?:dunno:?


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

That might be why it is not running. Sounds like you need a new harness. There are no 3 wire harnesses I know of.

Is your tender metal?

Just make sure loco and plug are wired like that great wiring diagram has. 4 or 5 wire.
If it is a 52 model it should be 4 wire., no 5th. Someone has messed with it.


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## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

Sometimes the wires in the braided harness are hard to see, and some break inside the harness out of sight. Mopac is right, 5 wire 282's have white paint in the stack and most have a plastic tender. Is there red paint on the plug as in the pic? As mopac states you can wire it either way but if you remove the tender shell you should be able to verify how many wires are coming from the tender thru the harness. It's also possible that it's a 4 wire 282 that has 1 wire replaced. Try to determine what year you are dealing with or as mopac says re-wire it the way you want to. Just remember if you're wiring as a 5 wire to follow that diagram.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I do not like the cloth or braided harnesses. They get to fuzzy and hard to tell what wire is what. I know they are original but I like the modern harnesses. And especially how flyernut makes them. No fuzz. Cramden is probably right. there is a 4th wire in that harness somewhere.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The three wire harness is a later model tender with the five digit engines and the jack is a smaller black plug.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I just looked at the pics of the 282 I have coming. It has the 5th wire. LOL. Its not hooked up. It has what I think is a coal pusher tender. My first one.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

T-Man, would the reverse unit be the same as the 3 digit locos?


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

I is obvious that someone has been into this machine. Lots of black crud and a attempt to lube it with white lithium grease. It does have a red dot on the loco jack panel but as I said, one 3 wire cable and a 1 wire cable. The wires on the brush caps and the e unit have been re soldered. The armature barely turns. And there is plenty of rust inside the tender. Everything is blackened by who knows! Even the wheels had some kind of thick black goop on them. Ain't this fun! I have four locos now, but as of yet, none runs. However I do have hope!:smilie_auslachen:


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Hang in there Broke, you will be fine. Every day you learn a little more. Keep asking questions.

Does the reverse unit look just like the one in your 302?


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Feb 8, 2016)

mopac said:


> Hang in there Broke, you will be fine. Every day you learn a little more. Keep asking questions.
> 
> Does the reverse unit look just like the one in your 302?


Yes, only blackened by whatever. I haven't checked the solenoid coil yet and the drum is quite dirty. Also, I found the 4th wire inside of the tender. I was soldered to the front truck. The 4th wire other end must be inside of the braid at the plug end. I will rewire and clean and keep on plugging along.:hah:


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## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

T-Man said:


> The three wire harness is a later model tender with the five digit engines and the jack is a smaller black plug.


All 5 digit locos with the small plug were 2 wire that plugged into the tender front. See BC's first post with the wiring diagrams(lower right pic is a 2 wire harness with a 2 position reverse unit. The upside down "T" at the rear of the motor assembly is the lock out lever. Sliding the tee up locks the reverse unit and pushing it down unlocks it. Hopes this is helpful.


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## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

mopac said:


> T-Man, would the reverse unit be the same as the 3 digit locos?


 The reverse units in the engines were for the most part 2 position units, though some of the 080 switchers came thru early on with 4 position reverse units. These are not the same as a 4 position tender reverse unit found in 4 or 5 wire locos or the 3 digit PA's or GP-7's.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I just wanted to make sure Broke's tender was was not a 5 digit tender.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Broke, If the armature is hard to turn it may have harden grease on the gears.
Or side rods binding. You are going to have to take that puppy apart and put it back together. Old grease will make them stiff.


With the armature out the wheels should turn freely.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Fingers need to be removed to get drum out to shine. Be careful. I went to get the fingers off my 282 and they just crumbled from being so old. I had a set of new fingers.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Broke, the wiring diagram you show is from the PortLines web-site, and is the only one I use. As per your posting, you found the mystery "4th" wire that was broke in the tender. When dealing with the 3 digit flyers, remember they all have at least 4 wires, and sometimes a 5th..You're starting to be a expert flyer trouble shooter!!! Tear that 282 down to the bare chassis, but DO NOT remove the wheels. Remember to remove the smoke stack first.I use CRC electric cleaner to get all the old grease and oils off the chassis, axles, and gears. Safe to use indoors, and evaporates quickly. It won't harm the white insulators. reface the armature by chucking it up in a drill press or drill, and hold a piece of 400 grit sandpaper against the face while spinning the armature. You want to flatten the face not just clean and polish it.. I finish up with a piece of 2000 wet/dry paper... I'm also going to send you a new wiring harness in your "care" package. NO CHARGE!!. Don't you dare send anything to my pay pal account.. My treat!! I'm going to sign off now and get busy making that 4 wire harness for you..Here's a picture of the cleaner I use.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Harness all done, checked continuity on all 4 wires and everything is good to go.I'll send out everything before noon.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Flyernut, you are to be commended for all your help to us AF rookies.
You have been a huge help to me. I have learned a lot and even I
have tried to help others. Here is a pic of my CRC can. They look
similar. They aren't LOL. Yours says non-flammable, mine doesn't. Don't ask how I found this out. No damage was done. LOL.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

mopac said:


> Flyernut, you are to be commended for all your help to us AF rookies.
> You have been a huge help to me. I have learned a lot and even I
> have tried to help others. Here is a pic of my CRC can. They look
> similar. They aren't LOL. Yours says non-flammable, mine doesn't. Don't ask how I found this out. No damage was done. LOL.
> ...


Wow, that's strange. Even though my CRC is non-flamable, it still stinks when used indoor... And thanks for the kind words.. I do enjoy helping others out, and I know folks here like to share/help too.


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## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

flyernut said:


> Broke, the wiring diagram you show is from the PortLines web-site, and is the only one I use. As per your posting, you found the mystery "4th" wire that was broke in the tender. When dealing with the 3 digit flyers, remember they all have at least 4 wires, and sometimes a 5th..You're starting to be a expert flyer trouble shooter!!! Tear that 282 down to the bare chassis, but DO NOT remove the wheels. Remember to remove the smoke stack first.I use CRC electric cleaner to get all the old grease and oils off the chassis, axles, and gears. Safe to use indoors, and evaporates quickly. It won't harm the white insulators. reface the armature by chucking it up in a drill press or drill, and hold a piece of 400 grit sandpaper against the face while spinning the armature. You want to flatten the face not just clean and polish it.. I finish up with a piece of 2000 wet/dry paper... I'm also going to send you a new wiring harness in your "care" package. NO CHARGE!!. Don't you dare send anything to my pay pal account.. My treat!! I'm going to sign off now and get busy making that 4 wire harness for you..Here's a picture of the cleaner I use.
> View attachment 366705


Very nice gesture on your part to help BC. No matter what problems BC and mopac throw your way you always come through. Nice job again.:appl:


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## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

mopac said:


> Flyernut, you are to be commended for all your help to us AF rookies.
> You have been a huge help to me. I have learned a lot and even I
> have tried to help others. Here is a pic of my CRC can. They look
> similar. They aren't LOL. Yours says non-flammable, mine doesn't. Don't ask how I found this out. No damage was done. LOL.
> ...


I have used both types you and flyernut show. Now I'm using CRC QD contact cleaner, it comes in a blue can. I don't worry about whether it's flammable or not since I only spray it outside, and it dries quickly and leaves no residue. Also its safe on plastic but I don't spray it near the whitewalls just in case, since the plastic used back then might not be something CRC considered when their formula was developed.
Never use 2+2 carb cleaner or Brakleen. Don't ask me how I know.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

cramden said:


> I have used both types you and flyernut show. Now I'm using CRC QD contact cleaner, it comes in a blue can. I don't worry about whether it's flammable or not since I only spray it outside, and it dries quickly and leaves no residue. Also its safe on plastic but I don't spray it near the whitewalls just in case, since the plastic used back then might not be something CRC considered when their formula was developed.
> Never use 2+2 carb cleaner or Brakleen. Don't ask me how I know.


The CRC I used ate a knuckle coupler up on me. I'm not sure if the coupler was a repo or an original, but just want to put that out there.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

cramden said:


> Very nice gesture on your part to help BC. No matter what problems BC and mopac throw your way you always come through. Nice job again.:appl:


Very kind of you to say so.. I consider everyone here a good friend, and even though I can't see you guys/gals, or go out to breakfast with anyone, I still consider all of you a friend, and I'll do anything for a friend... It sometimes costs me some money, but what's money??.. I just go out to my money tree and pick a few $50's...I'm not a expert by any means, but hopefully my posts can rattle a few brain cells, and fix someone's problem. Always glad to help. Whenever my wife hears or sees me typing away, she always says..."train buddies", and I say "yep", I'm trying to learn something,lol..


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

New 4-wire harness on the way, along with the 5th wire unit.:smilie_daumenpos:


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## cramden (Oct 13, 2015)

flyernut said:


> The CRC I used ate a knuckle coupler up on me. I'm not sure if the coupler was a repo or an original, but just want to put that out there.


Brakleen will dissolve the whitewall plastic, although on metal parts it seems okay.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

LOL. I did have a tender fire with my CRC. I do not remember how it happened. I probably
put a lighter to it to see what would happen. LOL, mine is flammable but works good. I had sprayed down a reverse unit and I had a couple puddles of CRC. I lit it up. It blew
right out, no biggie. I will not do that again. Sometimes I have to learn the hard way.


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## dooper (Nov 9, 2015)

mopac said:


> I do not like the cloth or braided harnesses. They get to fuzzy and hard to tell what wire is what. I know they are original but I like the modern harnesses. And especially how flyernut makes them. No fuzz. Cramden is probably right. there is a 4th wire in that harness somewhere.


I always thought the same, all black wires and hard to tell which was which. I finally obtained a multi-meter tester and used the continuity tester to determine which was which. Now I love them


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I am on break from AFs till tomorrow. Trying to wind a coil on a wick for the smoke unit in my 282. The ohms are right on the money. Between 35 and 45 and I am sitting on 40.
My coil fits in the box fine but I have narrow spaces and wider spaces between the coil. 
Maybe that's ok. I might unwind it and make it a little neater. It should work. I think it would have been easier if I had something holding one end of wick. LOL. Parts of the coil look good. This is my first wick replacement. Got the ends through those tiny holes on first attempt.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

mopac said:


> I am on break from AFs till tomorrow. Trying to wind a coil on a wick for the smoke unit in my 282. The ohms are right on the money. Between 35 and 45 and I am sitting on 40.
> My coil fits in the box fine but I have narrow spaces and wider spaces between the coil.
> Maybe that's ok. I might unwind it and make it a little neater. It should work. I think it would have been easier if I had something holding one end of wick. LOL. Parts of the coil look good. This is my first wick replacement. Got the ends through those tiny holes on first attempt.


And that's why I use the pre-wound kits buddy.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

LOL, that thought has entered my mind. This was cheaper. That's why I am trying it. 
I think 3 feet of wick and 3 feet of wire was 4 something. I can do 3 locos with this.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

mopac said:


> LOL, that thought has entered my mind. This was cheaper. That's why I am trying it.
> I think 3 feet of wick and 3 feet of wire was 4 something. I can do 3 locos with this.


To each his own, buddy, to each his own.. It's bad enough I have to get up once, maybe twice a night to pee, and then find out my A1C is totally messed up!!. I don't need to wind tiny little wire around a wick, needing 3 hands to do it,lol!!:laugh::laugh:


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I was diagnosed type 2 diabetic just this year. I was going pee every 20 minutes day and night. I finally went to see my doctor. He took me himself right to the hospital. My sugar
was over 600. Stayed in hospital for 3 days and now my sugar stay right around 100. Of
coarse I do insulin twice a day. I might get up I time a night to go pee but many nights I sleep all night. That will wear you out getting up every 20 minutes at night. Hope you get it worked out. I have had 1 A1C test since and it was a person not a diabetic but that is with insulin. I use my needles now to inject smoke fluid in my locos. Works great. I do not
have a funnel and with the eye dropper you are lucky to get half of it down the tube.

Oh, 4 hands would be better doing wick and wire. LOL.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

mopac said:


> I was diagnosed type 2 diabetic just this year. I was going pee every 20 minutes day and night. I finally went to see my doctor. He took me himself right to the hospital. My sugar
> was over 600. Stayed in hospital for 3 days and now my sugar stay right around 100. Of
> coarse I do insulin twice a day. I might get up I time a night to go pee but many nights I sleep all night. That will wear you out getting up every 20 minutes at night. Hope you get it worked out. I have had 1 A1C test since and it was a person not a diabetic but that is with insulin. I use my needles now to inject smoke fluid in my locos. Works great. I do not
> have a funnel and with the eye dropper you are lucky to get half of it down the tube.
> ...


You crack me up buddy.. God bless...I did my blood work without fasting, so I'm HOPING that was the reason for such a high A1C..


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