# Revitalizing an old N scale layout



## Novice19 (Apr 30, 2020)

I built this layout over 20 years ago with my son, and just hauled it up from the basement to allow my 2 grandsons who are now living here to experience it while their doctor parents are treating patients I need advice on how to get it working again. It was carefully stored and it appears the wiring is all intact. But I can't get a train to move on it. The buildings light up, and the switches work and I was able to get one engine (with three pickups) to show some life, but it wouldn't move. I'm guessing there is tremendous resistance on the track and I need to clean it, but I'm not sure how to do that. The attached picture includes some device that seems like an electric brush, but I don't recall how exactly to use it. Perhaps that is not the problem, so how do I troubleshoot it? Thanks so much. Chris


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## gimme30 (Jul 26, 2018)

The brush thingy's easy...that's a gadget designed to clean wheels and has nothing to do with why things aren't working. 

You've got kind of a rats nest of wiring there....I think rather than trying to go through all of it looking for issues I'd run wire straight from the throttle (it should be labeled "dc out/to track/etc) to the curve it's sitting next to, place the engine on that same piece of track, throttle up and see what happens. You don't need to connect the wires permanently, just hold the stripped ends on the rails with your fingers. If no joy then most likely the engine needs attention-it could just need a clean and lube.


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## ted535is (Dec 3, 2019)

That's a nice layout you have. 

Start with a rag and rubbing alcohol and clean the top of the rails, all of them. Hopefully there's access to the tunnels on the backside of that mountain. You'll be surprised at how dirty the rag will get. Start with that. Then try running a locomotive on it, 

The brush device is for cleaning locomotive wheels. The two alligator clips go to the track and will power the brush so that when you touch it to the wheels the motor will run. Turn on track power once the clips are on and touch the brush to the wheels, keeping the plastic in the middle of the brush in the middle of the loco you're cleaning. Most times you'll need wiggle the brush on the wheels a big to get things started. Let the loco run until the wheels are nice and shiny.


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## clovissangrail01 (Oct 8, 2019)

Since at this point, you do not know whether the problem is the engine or the track, you should try to eliminate one of the variables.

Therefore, you should use this as an excuse to buy a new engine.

This will eliminate one of the variables.

Put the engine on the track and give it the throttle.

If it doesn't run, then you know the problem is track-related, and you can flip that bad boy over and start checking your wiring.

If it does run, then you know the problem was your old engine, but you and the grand kids can start playing with your new engine immediately.

Either way, you have narrowed down the problem, and you have a shiny new locomotive, which is always a good thing.

Remember the cardinal life rules for model railroaders -- Always go to the bathroom before you go for a ride in the car (very important at our age), and never pass up an opportunity to acquire a new locomotive.

Nice looking layout-on-a-door. All Unitrack?


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## Novice19 (Apr 30, 2020)

clovissangrail01 said:


> Since at this point, you do not know whether the problem is the engine or the track, you should try to eliminate one of the variables.
> 
> Therefore, you should use this as an excuse to buy a new engine.
> 
> ...


Ha Ha, great idea. Always need an excuse, especially now, to support the economy. Unfortunately, the local hobby shop closed (pre-Corona) but I'll look around for another store not too far away to support. For an online seller of trains and parts, which company do you recommend? And yes, it's all Unitrack. Thanks for your response and I'll try the other good ideas to see if those bring any luck.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Welcome back to the hobby. Hopefully your grandkids will take to the hobby and you will have some wonderful hours together.

As gimme30 pointed out, the wire brush thing is a wheel cleaner... and not the best thing to use, either.

After 20 years of storage, both your track and equipment will need some TLC to get things running again.

Track first. It will need to be cleaned. Every inch of it. Isopropyl alcohol and denatured alcohol used to be highly recommended for track cleaning, but not so much. A major hobby publication (Model Railroad Hobbyist) did a fairly comprehensive analysis of cleaners about a year ago, and it turns out alcohols are in the "use only if you can't find something better" category. So what's better? Kerosene is actually best, followed by WD40 Contact Cleaner (regular WD40 is further down the list, but still good) and CRC Contact Cleaner and Protectant (but, interestingly not CRC's regular contact cleaner, and some other brands of contact cleaner are not so good, either). ATF -- yes, automatic transmission fluid -- also turns out to be better than alcohol. Also Neverstall, a commercial track cleaning fluid, was very high on the list; other brands of commercial product are only so-so (but still in the "better than alcohol" category). Wahl's Clipper Oil, gasoline, turpentine, and mineral spirits are also high on the list. Wrap a rag around your finger, wet it with solvent, and rub the rails with moderate pressure. Rotate the rag as it gets cruddy (it will, surprisingly quickly). Basically, the recommended cleaners both remove crud and inhibit the micro-arcing that is a major contributor to corrosion.

Next the locos. Cleaning the wheels with a cotton swab and the same solvent used for track works, or you can soak a paper towel with it, lay it over the tracks, and run your loco on it (half of the wheels need to stay on the track for electrical pickup. Gears and the motor were probably lubricated years ago. These lubricants now probably resemble glue more than anything else. Clean everything in the drive train with a swab and solvent (alcohol works fine for this, because the purpose is only to clean, not to promote electrical transfer). Now relubricate. If you can, use oil and grease made for hobby use (LaBelle's and Hob-E-Lube are widely available). When lubricating, more is not better. A tiny dab of grease on the gears, and a pinpoint drop (use a pin or a toothpick to apply) of oil on bearing surfaces is all you need.

With any luck, this should have you up and running again after a fairly short time. Good luck.


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## cid (Jul 3, 2014)

Please make sure that you are actually getting DC voltage on the track- check the wiring connection from power pack to track feed. A voltmeter is helpful...
But YES! I support the new loco recommendation! 🤣


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## Novice19 (Apr 30, 2020)

cid said:


> Please make sure that you are actually getting DC voltage on the track- check the wiring connection from power pack to track feed. A voltmeter is helpful...
> But YES! I support the new loco recommendation! 🤣


Thank You....I have a volt meter but don't know how to use it (of course). I've tried to put a lead on each track with the power on but get nothing. One train did jerk very slightly, so that's when I thought perhaps it's the condition of the track (which looks ok, but may not be). Is there an easy way for you to describe the settings I should use on the volt meter and where to apply it?


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## cid (Jul 3, 2014)

Set meter for DCV (DC Volts). 
Meter leads should be plugged in appropriate terminals on the meter to read voltage. 
Turn the meter on.
Turn the power pack up to max. 
Check the voltage at the "Track" terminals on the power pack, one lead on each. 
If polarity is wrong the meter will just read negative, it won't hurt.
You're probably seeing anywhere from 12 to 18 volts, it's not cast in stone.
Then check on the rail, one lead on each.
Should be the same.
With a loco on the rails drawing power, the readings will be reduced somewhat.
One train responding slightly is a good sign. I'm inclined to agree that the locos 
are probably gummed up and sticky and the rails are dirty, but without voltage to the track
You will chase your tail... 😆


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## Novice19 (Apr 30, 2020)

cid said:


> Set meter for DCV (DC Volts).
> Meter leads should be plugged in appropriate terminals on the meter to read voltage.
> Turn the meter on.
> Turn the power pack up to max.
> ...


This was very helpful, thanks. I am consistently getting 13.35v before cleaning the track (I don't know if once I do that it will go up) and I was able to see that the switches shut off electricity to parts of the track as well. After leaving the power on for a while doing this, my test loco started to move and then would stop after about 5 feet, so I now need to figure out how to get those cleaned and oiled. I'm making progress.


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## cid (Jul 3, 2014)

Yay, Progress!! 👍


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

When I got my N scale trains most were older locomotives and most of them didn't run or just barely ran.
My N scale trains here, Ed's N Scale
I cleaned the track and the wheels up and 90% of them took off like a rocket.
Clean track and clean wheels make a big difference.
I used 190 proof grain alcohol. 
I drove a chemical tanker and all my liquids that I have I hauled, I brought home sample bottles of choice chemicals.
The milk man brings home milk, the chemical man brings home chemicals.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Novice19 said:


> This was very helpful, thanks. I am consistently getting 13.35v before cleaning the track (I don't know if once I do that it will go up) and I was able to see that the switches shut off electricity to parts of the track as well. After leaving the power on for a while doing this, my test loco started to move and then would stop after about 5 feet, so I now need to figure out how to get those cleaned and oiled. I'm making progress.


Yep. Signs of life like that are a very good indication that an hour or so spent cleaning and lubrication will make things right as rain.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

You mention that turnouts shut off power to some tracks. These turnouts
are referred to as 'power routing'. If you want those tracks to be powered
regardless of turnout setting, run track drops to your bus from the frog rails of the
tracks connected to the turnout.

The easy way to clean locomotive wheels is to place a paper towel
with a spot of alcohol on your track. Run the front wheels onto the
spot, then by hand, hold the loco from moving as you run up the power
pack speed control allowing the wheels to slip in the alcohol. Repeat
with the wheels on the rear truck.

Don


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## BigEd (Oct 28, 2014)

Love the look of that layout. Kato Unitrak is actually pretty good operational. Love it!

As for cleaners - I prefer Goo-Gone. Amazing stuff. Can't get it over here in South Africa anymore. My wife has been eyeing it as it can remove stains like red wine from carpets, lipstick, etc. I lock it away...


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## Novice19 (Apr 30, 2020)

Thank you, I'll give Goo-Gone a try. I might finally have time to get the cleaning done in the next week. I experimented using mineral spirits on a section of track and took the suggesting of using paper towels to clean the locomotives with alcohol (discovering it was more effective if I first removed the lime and tonic). Those two steps seemed to fix all of the problems. I'll let you all know how it turns out soon enough, but wanted to thank you all for the many helpful suggestions.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I would not use Goo-Gone. It is citrus-based, oily, and polar. It tends to attract gunk. Mineral spirits is a good, non-polar solvent that will clean your track and protect it from future corrosion. Keep using that.


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## Novice19 (Apr 30, 2020)

Good to know, thanks for weighing in.


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## BigEd (Oct 28, 2014)

To Goo Gone or not... that’s the question. This have been tested and tried over on the Digitrax list many times and every time GG comes up trumps. No residue left and quite a natural degreaser. I’ve been using it for over 20 years and would marry it if it could sign on the dotted line. I tried all others I could lay my hands on but Goo Gone works best for me.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

It is possible that the South African product is some completely different chemical sold by the same name. 

However, I did some research, and the "ProPower" version actually contains kerosene, which is actually rated as the top track cleaning solvent... but all the other stuff in the product (ether, citrus oil, glycerin) isn't so good.

Use straight kerosene in preference to the Goo Gone, if you want the best benefit.


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## BigEd (Oct 28, 2014)

We import it straight from the USA. No local manufacturers to make it...


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