# Question About Bench Work



## paulrail (May 22, 2016)

I recently started my bench work. I am using 1"x4"s for the frame with the "cross pieces" (the pieces that would be called joists if It were a floor or called studs if it were a wall) spaced between 17"-20" apart (if that is insufficient now is the time to add more )

I am wondering how thick the plywood top should be. I plan to put 4" foam on top of the plywood and in one spot probably about 8" of foam. Not sure what scenery typical weighs plus the weight of structures and the trains themselves.

Any suggestions and/or info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks


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## fcwilt (Sep 27, 2013)

I found that 1/2" A/B plywood under 2" foam has worked well on my layout.

Be sure to use the correct adhesive for the foam and apply it generously. 

I missed a few spots when doing mine and when I put on the brown latex paint "undercoat" on the foam, the foam tried to warp in a few places where there was inadequate adhesive.

If you do put on such a coat of paint make it a thin one So it dries quickly - that seemed to minimize the problem.

One thing I stupidly forgot to do before putting the plywood was drilling holes through the "joists" first.

I suggest 1" holes every 12-18" inches.

YMMV.


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## paulrail (May 22, 2016)

Thanks, fcwilt. 

When you say you forgot to drill 1" holes in the joists I'm not sure what you mean. I first thought you meant pilot holes through the plywood into the joists for those fasteners...but 1"!!
Probably not 

Would you clarify?

Thanks


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## fcwilt (Sep 27, 2013)

paulrail said:


> Thanks, fcwilt.
> 
> When you say you forgot to drill 1" holes in the joists I'm not sure what you mean. I first thought you meant pilot holes through the plywood into the joists for those fasteners...but 1"!!
> Probably not
> ...


That wasn't clear was it. 

I was referring to holes for running wiring from one section to another.

I ended up drilling my holes after the fact but I drilled them as needed and it got harder and harder as I added more wiring to find a safe place to drill new holes.

And I started with 1/2" holes but they quickly filled up.

I just didn't give it enough thought - I was so focused on building good, solid bench work I didn't look ahead to the needs of wiring.

So learn from my stupid mistakes - drill multiple holes before you put the plywood on.


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## paulrail (May 22, 2016)

Oh. Good advice. I was planning on drilling those holes as needed just like you did


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## sachsr1 (Mar 3, 2016)

I'm using 3/8 chip board under 1" foam. It's $11 a sheet


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## paulrail (May 22, 2016)

sachsr1 said:


> I'm using 3/8 chip board under 1" foam. It's $11 a sheet


The price is right!

I know I will be moving at some point and am building my layout accordingly. I want to have sufficient bench work but don't want to make any section heavier than it has to be. 

Thanks for the reply


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## D&J Railroad (Oct 4, 2013)

If you are planning on moving it, yeah light as possible but still able to hold the scenery and trains.
I built mine as a permanent layout/empire so I used pressure treated 2X4s anchored to the floor with concrete bolts then built the benchwork up from there. 2X4 uprights with 1/8" plywood panels screwed to the sides of the 2X4s, then capped with 2X4 for the sub road bed to be screwed to. Roadbed is 3/4" plywood cut to follow the track plan.
The following pictures show one of the peninsulas with the radius in excess of 8'.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

paulrail said:


> The price is right!
> 
> I know I will be moving at some point and am building my layout accordingly. I want to have sufficient bench work but don't want to make any section heavier than it has to be.
> 
> Thanks for the reply


If cost and weight are your primary considerations, you really can't beat NO plywood under the foam. It definitely isn't necessary for strength. I use L-girders made of a 1x2 (actually a 1x4 ripped in half) glued to a 1x3 on 18" centers, and that will hold my 225 pound weight, especially if you're using 4" of foam.

What it DOES do is give you a convenient place to mount under-table switch machines. If you're not planning to use these, then there really isn't any need for plywood at all.


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## Guest (Jun 14, 2016)

CTValleyRR said:


> If cost and weight are your primary considerations, you really can't beat NO plywood under the foam. It definitely isn't necessary for strength. I use L-girders made of a 1x2 (actually a 1x4 ripped in half) glued to a 1x3 on 18" centers, and that will hold my 225 pound weight, especially if you're using 4" of foam.
> 
> What it DOES do is give you a convenient place to mount under-table switch machines. If you're not planning to use these, then there really isn't any need for plywood at all.


I agree 100%. My bench work is 1x3 frame with a 1" thick foam top, no plywood. It's plenty strong and I run O gauge.


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## paulrail (May 22, 2016)

CTValleyRR said:


> If cost and weight are your primary considerations, you really can't beat NO plywood under the foam. It definitely isn't necessary for strength. I use L-girders made of a 1x2 (actually a 1x4 ripped in half) glued to a 1x3 on 18" centers, and that will hold my 225 pound weight, especially if you're using 4" of foam.
> 
> What it DOES do is give you a convenient place to mount under-table switch machines. If you're not planning to use these, then there really isn't any need for plywood at all.


Thanks. I may or may not use under the table switch machines at some point...still deciding on that stuff. However, having the wood under everything will probably be helpful for wiring the different sections and disconnecting and re-connecting them.

I was wondering if 1/2" plywood would be sufficient and now I'm sure it will be. Thanks again guys


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

1/4" plywood would be sufficient. But if you already
have the 1/2" use it. Am I too late to suggest that
you assemble the wood parts with screws and bolts not nails?
Makes it easier to change when you later move.

If you are even thinking of using under the table
switch machines you may want to consider a less
thick foam topping. Or, if you do use the 2" you
may want to consider Peco turnouts with their PL10
twin coil motors attached. You can 'dig' a hole in the
foam for the motors.



Don


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## RonthePirate (Sep 9, 2015)

Ken, I just saw this thread now.
I have to compliment your construction process. I don't think I have ever seen anything like your benchwork.
Bolting it down to the concrete floor is something I never even contemplated!
(Although I wouldn't anyway, my floor is wood)
And the unique upright setup is a feat in itself.
Kudos and happy railroading!


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## paulrail (May 22, 2016)

DonR said:


> 1/4" plywood would be sufficient. But if you already
> have the 1/2" use it. Am I too late to suggest that
> you assemble the wood parts with screws and bolts not nails?
> Makes it easier to change when you later move.
> ...


Good advice to someone who you may have guessed has not used nder the table switch machines before. Can you tell me about the Peco side mounted switch machines? I don't mind side mounted switch machines so long as they're small like the ones on my Atlas code 83 turnouts.

I was thinking about the 4" foam so I could cut it away down to the plywood for a dramatic water scene below the lowest track level. Then some grades elevating trains with some more scenery (including highway overpasses above the tracks...a lot of dimensions!) 

I did have the foresight to bolt and label all the individual sections and their legs (so score one for the beginner :laugh

Thanks for the advice!


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Here's a link that shows the Peco side mount motor.
I have not used them, I use the Pl10 attached.

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&k...wo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_7sw2zdlfpr_b_p9

With 4" foam you have all the depth you need
for the Pl10s attached to your Peco turnouts
without need of cutting any wood.

By all means, tho either use the Stapleton 751 D
turnout control (with LED control) switches that
include a Capacitor Discharge Unit to protect
the twin coil motors or get a CDU that can power
all of your twin coils.

Don


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## paulrail (May 22, 2016)

Thanks so much, Don. That is very helpful.

The Peco side mount look a little bigger than 
the Atlas I have now! I'll be looking into the 
PL10s


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