# Atlas Code 55 Turnouts - remove switching dohickey?



## Ko Improbable (Mar 15, 2017)

So, I'm starting to lay track, using all Code 55. Am I expected to cut off one of the two extensions for switching the turnout? There are a couple of places where it's a bit of a tight fit if I don't do so.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

That 'doo hickey' is for throwing the points. If you
don't plan to use it, it is yours to cut off the ends.
Keep the center part as is. It would be needed if
you later wanted to install under table point motors.

However, if you plan to use motors attached to the
turnout you would want to be very careful to retain
what is needed.

What motor are you planning?

Don


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## Ko Improbable (Mar 15, 2017)

DonR said:


> That 'doo hickey' is for throwing the points. If you
> don't plan to use it, it is yours to cut off the ends.
> Keep the center part as is. It would be needed if
> you later wanted to install under table point motors.
> ...


None. I've already bought some manual throw levers (I forget the brand) that are designed for Atlas Code 55 turnouts. I haven't attached one, yet, so I don't fully know how they'll work.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

The ground throws will attach to your 'doo hickey'.
But only one end, the other end can go.

Don


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Ko Improbable said:


> None. I've already bought some manual throw levers (I forget the brand) that are designed for Atlas Code 55 turnouts. I haven't attached one, yet, so I don't fully know how they'll work.


So this probably goes without saying, but make sure you fully know how they will work before cutting anything off.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*doo hickeys*



Ko Improbable said:


> So, I'm starting to lay track, using all Code 55. Am I expected to cut off one of the two extensions for switching the turnout? There are a couple of places where it's a bit of a tight fit if I don't do so.


Ko Improbable;

From reading the other replies in this thread I gather that the "doo hickeys" you're thinking of cutting off are the "throwbar" (the long plastic sliding piece that actually moves the point rails) and the "head blocks" (the extra long ties on either side of that throwbar.)
The technical names aren't a big deal, they just help identify the parts in question. As seen in the prior replies, we can tell what you probably mean without the "official" terminology. [ However, if you are interested in learning about turnouts, and their various parts, there is an excellent article on this in the July 2017 issue of Model Railroader Magazine.]
I wouldn't cut off any of these parts until you have hooked up, and operated, the manual controls. (Probably Caboose Industries ground throws) When you are sure things work right, then you should be able to see what you can cut off, and what you can't.
You mentioned a "tight fit" in some places if you couldn't cut off some parts. Just be aware of car/loco overhang, and the clearances it requires. If, for instance you are close enough to a wall, or table edge, that you need to cut down the width of a turnout, do you have enough clearance to keep trains from sideswiping the wall, or falling off the table?

good luck;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## Ko Improbable (Mar 15, 2017)

traction fan said:


> Ko Improbable;
> 
> From reading the other replies in this thread I gather that the "doo hickeys" you're thinking of cutting off are the "throwbar" (the long plastic sliding piece that actually moves the point rails) and the "head blocks" (the extra long ties on either side of that throwbar.)
> The technical names aren't a big deal, they just help identify the parts in question. As seen in the prior replies, we can tell what you probably mean without the "official" terminology. [ However, if you are interested in learning about turnouts, and their various parts, there is an excellent article on this in the July 2017 issue of Model Railroader Magazine.]
> ...


Yeah, the ones I have are from Caboose Industries.

The tight fit is in reference to track leading away from another turnout nearby.

Knowing me, I've probably already made a big mistake in having glued down all the track before installing the manual controls. I didn't, however, use any adhesive under the actual turnouts, so I can, potentially, lift them up and get something under them if needed.

Work's been murderous, lately, so I'm a little low on motivation. I'll probably poke at those manual controls next.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Tight Fit*



Ko Improbable said:


> Yeah, the ones I have are from Caboose Industries.
> 
> The tight fit is in reference to track leading away from another turnout nearby.
> 
> ...


Ko Improbable;

Without a photo, I'm not sure about how the turnouts and track would interfere with each other. If you are referring to a "crossover" where two turnouts are connected back-to back in order to move onto a parallel track; then the ground throws would probably be best positioned on the outside of each track. If the ground throw is positioned, and woks well at one side of the turnout, then the "head-block" ties, and SOME* of the throwbar, can be cut off as needed. Another trick some modelers have used is to connect their ground throws to distant/awkwardly-placed turnouts with rod-in-a-tube linkages. Some line up all the ground throws at the edge of their layout and control all the turnouts from one central location.
You probably won't need to pull the track up to install the ground throws. Normally they can be installed without removing any track. What type of glue did you use? Many can be undone without serious track damage, but some can't. Latex caulk works well, and can be removed if necessary.
Sorry to hear about your "murderous" work situation. I'm fortunate, and old enough, to be happily retired, but I remember coming home beat to a frazzle. It's not a fond memory! Hope things improve for you.



*Be sure to leave enough throwbar, on either side, to fit under the rail, and project a little beyond, even when the turnout is thrown the opposite way. You should not cut off enough to let the end of your shortened throwbar snag on any other part of the turnout.

regards;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## Ko Improbable (Mar 15, 2017)

traction fan said:


> Ko Improbable;
> 
> Without a photo, I'm not sure about how the turnouts and track would interfere with each other. If you are referring to a "crossover" where two turnouts are connected back-to back in order to move onto a parallel track; then the ground throws would probably be best positioned on the outside of each track. If the ground throw is positioned, and woks well at one side of the turnout, then the "head-block" ties, and SOME* of the throwbar, can be cut off as needed. Another trick some modelers have used is to connect their ground throws to distant/awkwardly-placed turnouts with rod-in-a-tube linkages. Some line up all the ground throws at the edge of their layout and control all the turnouts from one central location.
> You probably won't need to pull the track up to install the ground throws. Normally they can be installed without removing any track. What type of glue did you use? Many can be undone without serious track damage, but some can't. Latex caulk works well, and can be removed if necessary.
> ...


Yeah, I used latex caulk.

Work isn't murdering me physically, really. To sum it up, there is a large amount of incompetence in the corporate management, and it's my job to make that incompetence function profitably.


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