# M.E. weathered track-no power



## fulsom56 (Sep 18, 2015)

Hi, I set up a test track using Micro Engineering weathered N scale track along with my NCE Power Cab. I placed an Atlas DCC equipped loco. on the track, powered it up & nothing. I disconnected power & checked continuity from my track feeder wires to both rails & I did have continuity. I put the loco. back on the tracks & still no power to the engine. So I disconnected again, took a scratch pad & cleaned the weathering off the top of the tracks. I placed the engine back on the tracks, powered up & bingo everything worked fine.

Has anyone ever experienced this problem with M.E. weathered track?
I find it strange that I had continuity through the rails but no power to the engine until I cleaned off the weathering.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Any substance that is not electrically conductive will block the
current going from the rails to the train wheels.

Don't know what ME uses for their weathering but from your
experience it appears to be non conductive.

Better clean the rail heads of all your ME track before
putting it down. That could be a problem with joiners
also.


Don


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

On the prototype only the rail sides would be weathered with the tops shiny. Atlas must be aware of this so I'm surprised that they don't tell you to clean track head.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Nope. I have 120' of the stuff on my layout, and have never experienced that problem. Maybe a bad batch from the factory?

Then again, the first thing I do after installing track is to run a bright boy over it. Maybe I have restored connectivity without realizing it. Also, since I solder sections together with feeders and don't rely on the rail joiners, perhaps that would account for not ever having a problem. Seems like a bit of a stretch, though.


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## fulsom56 (Sep 18, 2015)

When I first posted my setup consisted of using Atlas wired rail joiners without soldering. I went back & took some AWG 20 gauge wire & solder them directly to the underside of the rails making sure I cleaned off the weathering before attempting to solder. Tried again without removing the weathering from this piece of track-no good. I cleaned the tops of the rails & worked fine. I will note that when I tried a continuity test with the weathering on the rails I was getting a sporadic open/closed circuit reading.
Cleaning the tops of the rails will be the solution but I'm a little surprised I've never read about this or that Micro Engineering does not suggest it.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

There are two problems associated with ME weathered track: the tracks are very difficult to fashion a curve due to the weathering compound causing too much friction with the spikehead details, and the weathering compound prevents clean joiner contact and clean solders unless you scrape the rail surfaces clean just prior to applying the joiners or doing any feeder soldering. Naturally, the entire rail is coated, so the tire bearing surface on the rail head, the top one that is shiny on the prototype that is well used, will need to be freed of the weathering. I would not use solvents because then you are likely to ruin the weathering on the outer head surface and on the web. So, that leaves a scraper or an abrasive. I would first try a Bright Boy, but failing that, 600 grit paper. After the paper, a rag dampened with 70% isopropyl alcohol or maybe lacquer thinner. Damp, not soaked. Wrapped around a dowel, or my index finger, and rubbed for a foot or so, then I would buff the rail top with a clean terrycloth or shop towel to take up that 12" of still-wet gunk.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

This thread should be an 'alert' to those considering 
'weathered' track. I'd say, avoid it. Do the weathering
yourself after laying the track. It's not that difficult and
makes for an easy chore on a rainy day. One other
thing about DIY weathering, it is somewhat uneven, just
like you see on the real railroads.

Don


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## fulsom56 (Sep 18, 2015)

I'll be using very fine emery cloth along the top of the rail followed by an alcohol rub. From now on I'll buy the non weathered track. I do have the M.E. weathering solution that I bought for the turnouts, looks like I have another use for it. As far as soldering goes I have that down pretty good by cleaning off the weathering first.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

I use ME weather rail and quickly found out that I needed to "sand" the bottom of the rail with that fine black sand paper to remove the weathering. Helps in gluing the track to the CVT ties and soldering to PC ties for power drops and making turnouts. I use a brightboy to clean the top of the rail. Before I spay paint the ties I'll use some 1/4" or 1/2" tape to mask the rail. I spray painted a turnout without masking the rail then had to remove the paint from the rail because it didn't look right. Even with all this hassle I still continue to use the weathered rail.


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