# Pacific 310, a K5



## T-Man

A place to start. It runs. I cleaned the tender connections. I have most of the screws but the boiler and a rail off the steam chest is missing, so far.













Thread on how it was bought.


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## T-Man

This is a real popular thread. 
Time for an update.


The 310 lives. Doug of Portlines came through with parts. A little assembly and I was in buisness. I iwas disappointed my boiler cover had no Keystone decal. It did have a cool bell. 

For parts I had to refer to a K5 sheet so I must of been mistaken on Pacific.


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## Big Ed

All The S men are sleeping. S = sleep. 

You do have a 129 views right now, I have been waiting for an update. 
Well.......wheres the pictures? 
You didn't repaint it right?
No epoxy used! 

I think I have seen Keystone decals somewhere, it was a while ago and I don't know if they where in S scale. I probably saw them on fee bay, as I occasionally look for CNJ decals to see what is out there.
Continue please. :smokin:


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## eljefe

Maybe this project didn't seem challenging enough to comment on. We're used to you starting with a smokestack and epoxying up a whole locomotive to go with it!


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Looks like a nice project to tackle. I have a 312 - very similar. When you said you're missing a rail from the steam chest, are you referring to a handrail? Doug @ Portlines has replacements or if you find the proper gauge/type wire, you can cut/bend your own. Don't forget to post 'after' pics.


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## flyernut

These are nice engines. I have several.


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## T-Man

I started with a repro boiler front.



Two screws to hold the jack and a new wire pin.






I needed a gear pan and a screw.



One guide short and a link age screw and I was in business.


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## T-Man

Epoxy was used. 

The cross bar for the cab to drag the tender had pins on the shell. They held onto the bar, though not that great so I epoxied it in place.

I had a drive wheel loosen too on a test run. Super glue to fix that.


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## Big Ed

T-Man said:


> Epoxy was used.
> 
> The cross bar for the cab to drag the tender had pins on the shell. They held onto the bar, though not that great so I epoxied it in place.
> 
> I had a drive wheel loosen too on a test run. Super glue to fix that.


All right, Epoxy was used. :appl:
You have restored my faith in you Mr Epoxy Man. 

Is that the way they connected the wires to the cab with a plate like that or did you make that up?
Looking good, is that considered an O gauge American Flyer? Or is it S scale?
If it is O there are decals/stickers to be had. 
But they are Lionel.

Looks good T, you going to leave it with the patina it has or eventually paint it?
Maybe magic marker up the nicks?

Is that a smoker and chugger?

The bell does look nice, I guess it is a new one it looks so shiny.

Does it have a clapper to make a ding/dong? 
That would be nice huh?:thumbsup:


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## T-Man

Ed it is S scale with a reverse unit in the tender. No smoke or chug.



The tender is cast.


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## The New Guy

That's interesting the tender having the hole for a smoker w/o actually having one. Was that common, or perhaps an incorrect body?


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## T-Man

I don't know. It was found with it.


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## flyernut

T-Man said:


> Ed it is S scale with a reverse unit in the tender. No smoke or chug.
> 
> 
> 
> The tender is cast.


You sure that reverse unit is in the tender?? Looks like it's in the boiler..


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## T-Man

Yeah it is in the boiler. I don't know what I was thinking. :appl:


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## flyernut

T-Man said:


> Yeah it is in the boiler. I don't know what I was thinking. :appl:


Ah schucks, that's ok...


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## Big Ed

It looks in good shape.

Is that the way they connected the wires to the cab with a plate like that or did you make that up? The back of the cab?


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## T-Man

That plate is called a jack. The part is sticked at Portlines. This tender has two leads but no plate on the tender side. There is a 293 that has a plate on bothside that form a connector with four leads. I am not sure what my other engines have?


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## eljefe

The New Guy said:


> That's interesting the tender having the hole for a smoker w/o actually having one. Was that common, or perhaps an incorrect body?


That is common in Lionel equipment. I wouldn't be surprised in American Flyer did it too. That way you only have to make one shell instead of two.

By the way, nice job on the loco. Another quality T-man job!


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Looks great T -- nice job. Can we see a video of it running?


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## T-Man

Thanks for the kind words. It was a great find that I had to help. Worm drives are always a smooth operator.


I just haven't gotten around to a video but that is in the natural order of operation.

On jacks I snapped a few. This one has a rivet where the smoke line was soldered too. I ran a separate wire for a switch and bypassed it.




My 300 AC


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## Nuttin But Flyer

What type of wire are you using from the tender connections to jack plate/plug? I usually use #24 stranded "super-flex" with 4 conductors all black cloth-wrapped. The photos look like heavier wire is used.


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## T-Man

Radio shack, number 22 stranded. A little stiff, yes it is. Where do you buy it?


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## gunrunnerjohn

One of many listings for similar wire on eBay.

3' SUPERFLEX C4X24, 24-GAUGE C.C. 4-WIRE CABLE ENGINE TO TENDER AMERICAN FLYER

For single wire, here's a suggestion: Wire (SuperFlex 22GA) for AF, Lionel, Marx, MTH, Williams, etc. (10ft)

I use this type of wire for anything that moves, pickups, tethers, motor connections in diesels, etc.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

I have found the cloth-covered, 4-conductor wire at train shows for $1.00 a foot. I've also found some on eBay as GRJ has mentioned and some at various vendors online. I'd love to get a whole spool of the stuff so I'm set for life. But that might get expensive. I usually buy 10-12' and keep it on hand. Most train shows have someone selling electrical wire. Lionel, Flyer -- it doesn't matter, only the gauge and type matters.


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## gunrunnerjohn

I bought 100 feet of the #22 some time back, and I still have about half of it left. I just keep my eye out for a deal when I'm getting near the end.


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## flyernut

25' roll of 4 conductor, super flex 24ga wire will cost you $32.95 from portLines.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

I've been looking for 100' spool of the stuff, but if I keep finidng it at $1.00 per foot, I'm fine with that.


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## Magne-rail

big ed said:


> All right, Epoxy was used. :appl:
> You have restored my faith in you Mr Epoxy Man.
> 
> Is that the way they connected the wires to the cab with a plate like that or did you make that up?
> Looking good, is that considered an O gauge American Flyer? Or is it S scale?
> If it is O there are decals/stickers to be had.
> But they are Lionel.
> 
> Looks good T, you going to leave it with the patina it has or eventually paint it?
> Maybe magic marker up the nicks?
> 
> Is that a smoker and chugger?
> 
> The bell does look nice, I guess it is a new one it looks so shiny.
> 
> Does it have a clapper to make a ding/dong?
> That would be nice huh?:thumbsup:



Flyer Steam locomotives (3-digit numbers) ending with 0 have no smoke units in them. 310, 320 etc.

Sal


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## Big Ed

Magne-rail said:


> Flyer Steam locomotives (3-digit numbers) ending with 0 have no smoke units in them. 310, 320 etc.
> 
> Sal


That is good to know.
I only have one Flyer S scale diesel, I had a Casey Jones S scale locomotive but gave her away.

When my boys move out I will have another room, maybe for some S scale.:smilie_daumenpos:

In those that don't have any is there room to add one under the shell?


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## Magne-rail

big ed said:


> That is good to know.
> I only have one Flyer S scale diesel, I had a Casey Jones S scale locomotive but gave her away.
> 
> When my boys move out I will have another room, maybe for some S scale.:smilie_daumenpos:
> 
> In those that don't have any is there room to add one under the shell?


IMO, you would be better off starting with a nice 326 or 316 locomotive for your layout. These have all the bells an whistles in them. Great runners too. Pa's are great also, but you better know how to service them, they can be very temperamental.. But, once serviced they are great runners that look awesome on a layout. The 360/361 PA/PB are good starter set for you also, but they do not have traction tires. I always tell someone if they can afford it, when starting their Flyer layout go with the better up graded Locomotive like 313, 316, 336, 343 and the large 18B/30B transformers. The 312, 322, 332 are great also, but no traction tires and they have the link couplers. If you need any help, send me a PM..




Sal


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## flyernut

Magne-rail said:


> Flyer Steam locomotives (3-digit numbers) ending with 0 have no smoke units in them. 310, 320 etc.
> 
> Sal


Are you sure Sal?? My 290 has smoke.


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## Magne-rail

flyernut said:


> Are you sure Sal?? My 290 has smoke.


Your right, that 1949-51 290 did come with smoke and choo-choo.. Missed that. According to American Flyer the o indicated without smoke? I know the 320 and the 310 those numbers indicated no smoke units. 

Sal


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## flyernut

Magne-rail said:


> Your right, that 1949-51 290 did come with smoke and choo-choo.. Missed that. According to American Flyer the o indicated without smoke? I know the 320 and the 310 those numbers indicated no smoke units.
> 
> Sal


Still, go info to know... Thanks my friend..


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