# Airbrush beginner



## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Before investing in a compressor, I want to try it out with some canned air. So I got a cheap airbrush and hose at HF and a paasch canned air supply. Never crossed my mind that the two wouldn't have the same fittings. Can someone tell me what I need to hook this up?
















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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

Ok I don't know. But does some sort of needle go into the can end fitting when you screw on the hose fitting to release air?


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

So I poked around and you need something like this. There may be lots of varieties of these things that could work.









Paasche 3B Pressure Tank Valve


Pressure Tank Valve (needed for attaching hose to propellant cans)




www.midwestairbrush.com


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Thanks! I'll give that a try

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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

I have one of those HF airbrushes, and it works pretty well. I would recommend not running type of solvent based paints or thinners through it. Stick with water based acrylics. I'm not sure what the seals are made of, but being from HF it's a safe bet they are made of pretty cheap material!
I have a compressor similar to this one:








Masterforce® Ultra-Quiet 2-Gallon 135 PSI Portable Electric Horizontal Air Compressor


Enjoy quiet interior work with this ultra-quiet air compressor from Masterforce®. It's designed to run 80 percent quieter with three times longer motor life than standard air compressors. The high-performance induction motor makes this compressor a great choice for a variety of tasks, including...




www.menards.com





It's not this exact model, mine was a closeout special. The HF airbrush uses Badger fittings.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

If you ask me, you need a trash can for the canned air. The pressure is so inconsistent, and so difficult to control the flow, that you will get crappy results no matter what, and it will probably convince you that an airbrush isn't worth your time. There is also frequently a lot of moisture in those propellant cans.

You might still need adapters to join different hose sizes, or male to male / female to female fittings to hook things up. You can buy these at dozens of art and hobby supply stores, or on line.


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

I wish we had a true hobby shop, alas hobby lobby is the best I can do locally. And you may be right on the air can. I'm going to give it a go though. I have found lots of 3d printed pieces that will work on our layout so I think the compressor is inevitable. Suggestions on an affordable model? 

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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I have one of these: MicroLux® Portable Air Compressor

I paid the extra $30 for the regulator/ moisture trap combo. This has worked well for years.


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

That, I can live with

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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

vette-kid said:


> Before investing in a compressor, I want to try it out with some canned air. So I got a cheap airbrush and hose at HF and a paasch canned air supply. Never crossed my mind that the two wouldn't have the same fittings. Can someone tell me what I need to hook this up?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


vette_kid;

How much did the Paasche air can cost?

Traction Fan


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

About $15. 

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## BobT (Mar 27, 2021)

I tried a cheap Badger with canned air back in the....70s? 80s? can't remember...
Had no luck, couldn't make it work correctly, (no internet back then), and finally gave up.

Because of that, I was strictly brushes and spray cans for the next 40 some years.

With getting back into the hobby now, I actually bought a Badger 105, and use my real air compressor.
What a night and day difference. Wish I had done it years ago.

Sorry for the long story. 

Just trying to say the cans probably won't give you a good experience, and your results may be less than satisfactory. 
But don't give up. A good airbrush set up, is well worth it. (After a little learning curve  )


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## mike wyatt (Oct 16, 2017)

Bob- e-mail me- I have a write-up on using airbrushes.

Mike
[email protected]


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## BobT (Mar 27, 2021)

mike wyatt said:


> Bob- e-mail me- I have a write-up on using airbrushes.
> 
> Mike
> [email protected]


Thanks Mike, appreciate the thought very much.

I've had the brush for well over a month now, and got it figured out for the most part. 
Between YouTube videos, and hours of experience on full size spray guns, both standard and HVLP, the learning curve wasn't bad. The airbrush is just a little smaller, but much more fun.

What I really need is to get busy and build some stuff to paint...LOL...


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

I used a cheap Badger and an air can back in the early '80's. I had no problems with it. I painted a lot of 1/48 scale aircraft in camo and Model Master metalized finishes that you had to buff. 

That little gun painted a lot of models.


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## Mixed Freight (Aug 31, 2019)

Harbor Freight has these "hot-dog" compressors for $39.95, according to their website...............








Or this "pancake" one also, same price.......................








For $39.95 you can't hardly go wrong. I have an almost identical "Husky" brand hot-dog compressor I purchased at Home Depot a long time ago. Perfect for air-brushing and other general light-duty compressed air purposes around the work bench and layout.

I'd also recommend an in-line water/moisture trap for these (also generally available at HF pretty cheap).

You may have to hunt around a little bit finding the proper fittings to hook up your airbrush, but it's definitely worth the time, effort, and trouble.


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## Jscullans (Jul 8, 2019)

I use my porter cable pancake compressor. I use a cheap eBay air brush and I usually use Vallejo paints. Keep in mind the air brush paints are thinner than standard paints so if you use standard paint you’ll need to thin it out. I got my porter cable compressor with 3 nail guns for like $250 in a package deal at Home Depot when I was doing the trim in my living room. (I had alternative motives for compressor) thus I ended up making an air line to run low pressure and I can use that. I normally get about 5 mins of spray time before the compressor kicks on so I can do a coat of paint on a passenger car within about 2 times the compressor comes on. I also do light coats so if you’re heavy handed with your air brush it will paint faster but it’s not good to learn heavy handed. I agree with inconsistent air pressure. If pressure is constantly changing it makes it hard to paint


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## Rich1853 (Jun 25, 2018)

[QUOTE="BobT, post: 2575203, member: 71822"

What I really need is to get busy and build some stuff to paint...LOL...
[/QUOTE]
Go to the beach and spray some women with sun tan lotion


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## mrmustang1933 (Mar 30, 2015)

Jscullans said:


> I use my porter cable pancake compressor. I use a cheap eBay air brush and I usually use Vallejo paints. Keep in mind the air brush paints are thinner than standard paints so if you use standard paint you’ll need to thin it out. I got my porter cable compressor with 3 nail guns for like $250 in a package deal at Home Depot when I was doing the trim in my living room. (I had alternative motives for compressor) thus I ended up making an air line to run low pressure and I can use that. I normally get about 5 mins of spray time before the compressor kicks on so I can do a coat of paint on a passenger car within about 2 times the compressor comes on. I also do light coats so if you’re heavy handed with your air brush it will paint faster but it’s not good to learn heavy handed. I agree with inconsistent air pressure. If pressure is constantly changing it makes it hard to paint


Buy a Chinese $29 air brush on Ebay (see attachment)... I have 3... They work perfect... Play around with it to get used to spraying thin lines with little paint... Wide lines with lots of paint... I use Tamiya paints thinned with Tamiya thinner... Or you can use Windex mixed with 90% rubbing alcohol... Plus you can use Windex and alcohol for cleaning the airbrush too... I use Vallejo paints too...

THANX


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## mrmustang1933 (Mar 30, 2015)

mrmustang1933 said:


> Buy a Chinese $29 air brush on Ebay (see attachment)... I have 3... They work perfect... Play around with it to get used to spraying thin lines with little paint... Wide lines with lots of paint... I use Tamiya paints thinned with Tamiya thinner... Or you can use Windex mixed with 90% rubbing alcohol... Plus you can use Windex and alcohol for cleaning the airbrush... I use Vallejo paints too...
> 
> THANX


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## mrmustang1933 (Mar 30, 2015)

1 of the airbrushes I have...


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Will see how it goes. For some reason the hose I got is 18-1/8 instead of 1/4. So I need a new hose or adapter. 

I have found 3d printed jurassic park cards, building etc. So lots to paint, now the compressor is looking better and better. 

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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Quite a few endorsements for cheap tools. In my experience, cheap stuff often works well out of the box, but doesn't hold up. Needles and nozzles become cracked or pitted, triggers become overly sensitive or sticky, etc, etc. A quality tool is worth the investment, in my opinion.


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## mrmustang1933 (Mar 30, 2015)

CTValleyRR said:


> Quite a few endorsements for cheap tools. In my experience, cheap stuff often works well out of the box, but doesn't hold up. Needles and nozzles become cracked or pitted, triggers become overly sensitive or sticky, etc, etc. A quality tool is worth the investment, in my opinion.


I paint these with cheap stuff... Plus much more... I do agree that HIGH quality tools are usually much better... But it depends on how much money you have... I have not wore out any of my cheap airbrushes out yet... But I clean them after every use...


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## Jscullans (Jul 8, 2019)

When my air brush gets fouled up I’m going to buy a nice iwata or something but the one I have was good for a starter and I didn’t have the money for a good one at the time. I’m also a firm believer in the buy once cry once theory. A good tool will always out last a cheap one. As an equipment technician I don’t buy cheap tools very often because they usually die on the first go around


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## mrmustang1933 (Mar 30, 2015)

Some more... As I painted an entire train of equipment... The camo freight cars I bought... Liliput... I taped nothing off... A little over spray and you do not notice... I had to repaint about 4 tanks to learn how to get acceptable results... Most of the decals are TL DECALS... The best... No clear film borders to cut...
THANX


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Those look great! I hope to do half that well!

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## mrmustang1933 (Mar 30, 2015)

vette-kid said:


> Those look great! I hope to do half that well!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk


I first paint them all flat black or Nato black. Then the dark yellow except for the tracks and the tires. Sometimes I disassemble them some what. Then I turn the airbrush down to spray the camo colors on, one color at a time. If you mess up just touch it up or spray it all black again and start over. I also use Tamiya black panel line wash around the tracks or plastic tires to get rid of any overspray. Blends it right in. I believe that the black panel line wash is nothing more than REALLY water down flat black paint. A airbrush even a cheap one is WAY better than any spray can ever was. Just take the time to clean it every time and all the time. If they get clogged up they are a pain to totally take apart and put back 
together.
THANX


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## mrmustang1933 (Mar 30, 2015)

mrmustang1933 said:


> I first paint them all flat black or Nato black. Then the dark yellow except for the tracks and the tires. Sometimes I disassemble them some what. Then I turn the airbrush down to spray the camo colors on, one color at a time. If you mess up just touch it up or spray it all black again and start over. I also use Tamiya black panel line wash around the tracks or plastic tires to get rid of any overspray. Blends it right in. I believe that the black panel line wash is nothing more than REALLY water down flat black paint. A airbrush even a cheap one is WAY better than any spray can ever was. Just take the time to clean it every time and all the time. If they get clogged up they are a pain to totally take apart and put back
> together.
> THANX


Plus I sprayed 4 or 5 coats of Testor's dull coat thinned with 90% alcohol after I applied the decals.


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## Chopper (Oct 12, 2014)

vette-kid said:


> Before investing in a compressor, I want to try it out with some canned air. So I got a cheap airbrush and hose at HF and a paasch canned air supply. Never crossed my mind that the two wouldn't have the same fittings. Can someone tell me what I need to hook this up?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You might give TCP Global a call. They can help you with questions about airbrushes and compressors.
tcpglobal.com
They carry several different airbrushes, compressors, and associated parts.


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Finally got the correct hose and gave it a test. Nothing fancy, just a solid color on a flat wooden unicorn. More practice is coming for sure, but I think I can manage. Need a compressor for sure. Cleaning the gun takes more air than painting

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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

vette-kid said:


> Need a compressor for sure.


Seriously consider getting a compressor such as the one I referenced in post #5, an ultra-quiet small shop compessor with a tank. The pancake and hot dog types work, but they make a lot of noise. I can use mine for airbrushing, and my wife can be in the room right above it, and she won't hear it. They can also be used for a lot of things around the house, something not true of a dedicated small airbrush compressor.


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Yeah, I'm definitely looking for something quiet. I've seen a few at the 60db range, which is what your master force advertises. And if prefer a tank so it doesn't run non stop

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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Twin Cylinder Piston Airbrush Compressor w/Tank 1/3 HP Hobby Tattoo T-Shirt | eBay


• 1x Twin-cylinder airbrush compressor. • Air Tank: 3.5L. • Double switch 1: Auto start at 3 bar, Auto stop at 4bar. • Noise: 59 db (lower than other spray booths). • Auto-start/stop. • Swicth 2: Max 7 Bar.



www.ebay.com





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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

The one I linked back in post #8 is whisper quiet. About like an electric toothbrush. You can talk over it with ease.


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

CTValleyRR said:


> The one I linked back in post #8 is whisper quiet. About like an electric toothbrush. You can talk over it with ease.




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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

It's on its way!

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## TommyB (Jan 30, 2020)

You won't regret purchasing a compressor. I was totally new to airbrushing a year ago, and while I certainly don't consider myself proficient in it's use, I can say it doesn't take long to get the hang of airbrushing. It's incredible how much I use it. One thing I found out rather quickly was, if using a paint that is not specifically labelled for airbrush use, be sure to thin it down. That, and making sure to clean your airbrush after each use...and you are good to go.


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## Jscullans (Jul 8, 2019)

My brother has a California air brand compressor and it’s about silent


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Just to update this thread, I've been happy with the setup so far. It's functional a at least. However, I'm finding that the HF brush lacks control. It's essentially on or off. I can make some adjustments by adjusting the needle, but once it's set the trigger is on or off. There is also a lot of slop in the trigger...a lot. I just can't seem to adjust it out.

That in mind, I would like to upgrade to a higher quality airbrush. Iwata seems to be the standard, is any model good? Older versions as well if I go used? Gravity vs siphon?

Small sample of what I've done so far. I love that the airbrush atomizes the paint enough that small details don't get washed out. A rattle can would most likely fill in these little details like vent covers etc.
















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## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

Looks good!

I really want to get an airbrush, but just can't get myself to spend $$ when I know I have about $750 in track to purchase.


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

JeffHurl said:


> Looks good!
> 
> I really want to get an airbrush, but just can't get myself to spend $$ when I know I have about $750 in track to purchase.


The compressor was $80 and I think the HF brush was something like $20. So fit about $100 plus the cost of paint, your up and running. I have invested another $20 or so in a cleaning kit for it, highly recommended. 

I here you on the track though, it gets expensive real quick!

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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

Its easy to get frustrated learning how to use an airbrush. I think getting a nice quiet compressor that has a tank really eliminated some of the frustration. Then when you do your first paint job, its amazing how much better an airbrush works, you get great satisfaction. Thin coats worked best for me. Use lots of cheap gloves, every paint change, change the gloves!


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

vette-kid said:


> Just to update this thread, I've been happy with the setup so far. It's functional a at least. However, I'm finding that the HF brush lacks control. It's essentially on or off. I can make some adjustments by adjusting the needle, but once it's set the trigger is on or off. There is also a lot of slop in the trigger...a lot. I just can't seem to adjust it out.
> 
> That in mind, I would like to upgrade to a higher quality airbrush. Iwata seems to be the standard, is any model good? Older versions as well if I go used? Gravity vs siphon?
> 
> ...


This is my current airbrush: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002N0QA9A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not a cheapie, but not a budget buster, either. Personally, I like gravity feed brushes with paint cups, because it's very easy to swap out colors, and you can see the remaining amount of paint more easily. This model is forgiving enough for a beginner, but has the fine control appropriate for the expert, too.


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

You won't go wrong with a brush from any of the major manufacturers (Badger, Iwata, Paasche, etc). Badger is made in the USA, I don't know about the others. Also, since you have a Harbor Freight brush now, Badger uses the same size fittings. Or, more technically correct, Harbor Freight uses the same size fittings as Badger. I use both HF and Badger. My most used brush is probably the HF single action, which is a knock-off of the Badger 350. If it ever dies I'll get a 350, but the thing just won't quit! I also have a Badger Patriot 105 gravity fed brush that I really like. Just my humble opinion (and we all know what opinions are like) but I'd seriously consider Badger.


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

CTValleyRR said:


> This is my current airbrush: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002N0QA9A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Not a cheapie, but not a budget buster, either. Personally, I like gravity feed brushes with paint cups, because it's very easy to swap out colors, and you can see the remaining amount of paint more easily. This model is forgiving enough for a beginner, but has the fine control appropriate for the expert, too.


It's pretty! That's about what I was expecting price wise. 

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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

I finally used mine. It's an iwata eclipse not neo as I said originally .. I looked at the box.. I think I bought it at hobby lobby. I also have a badger air compressor. I got this at a steep discount when I happened upon it at a store closing sale. I bought that first and then weeks later got the iwata. I also bought an adapter hose to connect the iwata to the badger at hobby lobby. I didn't know I needed it until I tried to connect it all up just a week or two ago. That was a little frustrating

Well so I just did some very basic painting with it and it seemed good by me. But it's way too "pro" of a setup for my uses right now. I'd probably go for a smaller compressor if I had to do it over. Maybe even the canned air.

Tbe iwata itself seemed fine. I practiced with water and then just went for it. Since I was just base coating a kit before I glued it all together I didn't have much to do. In fact all I thought about was nice even consistent coats. It seems to me you are rewarded with patience here. You could for example do 2000 "micro coats" or 20 light coats or 2 or 3 normal ones. Or just hit it one time and try not to over spray. And I guess to me that's what you get... more control.

Anyway for me the biggest issue I have is a lack of paint location. I was outside for my test run with but I could see the microscope vapors billowing up everywhere... And so it's a lot of work for a quick job ..


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

For location, I do my airbrushing inside in my workshop. I dont notice any fumes or overspray. Probably not OSHA approved... but they aren't allowed around here!

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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

I also was spraying at 80 psi because that's what the compressor puts out out of the box. It was just a test. The regulator can be adjusted back and the iwata user manual suggests 35 to 55. It felt too strong but I got done what I wanted. It's I admit a little early for me to really suggest anything but I was poking around on tbe badger website and the "patriot deluxe" has a "fine spray pressure trigger" which seems appealing and might be good for some kinds of detail work. But I'm speculating... 
Also it was just water based acrylic.


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

CTValleyRR said:


> This is my current airbrush: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002N0QA9A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Not a cheapie, but not a budget buster, either. Personally, I like gravity feed brushes with paint cups, because it's very easy to swap out colors, and you can see the remaining amount of paint more easily. This model is forgiving enough for a beginner, but has the fine control appropriate for the expert, too.


So how do you change paint on this? Looks like the cup is built in so you would have to wash the cup out first? Obviously I'm still a noob here, but I like the swappable cups on my HF brush. Or better, the bottles. I can just run it the paint with shine cleaner, pop a new cup in and be on to the next color. I dint want to have to clean the whole thing between colors. 

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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

I wondered about this and it seemed like pour out the bowl, pour in water, run it through, pour in your new color.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

vette-kid said:


> So how do you change paint on this? Looks like the cup is built in so you would have to wash the cup out first? Obviously I'm still a noob here, but I like the swappable cups on my HF brush. Or better, the bottles. I can just run it the paint with shine cleaner, pop a new cup in and be on to the next color. I dint want to have to clean the whole thing between colors.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk


Exactly what Severn said. i just keep a measuring cup full of soapy water handy (I use acrylic paints), and when I'm done with a color, I pour out the paint, fill the cup with soapy water, and spray it into a cleaning station. About every third cup, I follow that with a little Vallejo airbrush cleaner and lubricant. And wipe the tip frequently!


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

vette-kid said:


> For location, I do my airbrushing inside in my workshop. I dont notice any fumes or overspray. Probably not OSHA approved... but they aren't allowed around here!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk


It's not fumes you have to worry about, but little atomized droplets of hardened paint floating around in the air. You really don't want to breathe those.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

I would imagine that the paint dries in the air pretty quickly -- and i learned recently that acrylic is plastic (duh!) -- anyway so yeah little plastic bits flying about you can't see. well i'm going to hit the "hobby paint store" again this weekend and get a few things for it. i may not use the airbrush again this weekend but soon i think. and i'll probably be switching paints. i noticed the compressor has two holders on it, and so that's another option -- two airbrushes with different paints. and i guess a twisty knob to put pressure one way or the other. no doubt the pros do this ... but the rinse it with water approach seems fine to me... although perhaps for the actual talented artist (not me!) -- that switching breaks up the painting so they don't want to stop for that...

anyway one is enough... i can't imagine needing more.


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

I've been looking at paint booths for it. Seems they just suck the air through a filter and don't need vented through a window? 

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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

I've been looking at paint booths for it. Seems they just suck the air through a filter and don't need vented through a window? 

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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

I don't know much about them but also have the interest. I painted outside. If I was painting inside I'd think a booth would be needed except for maybe a little minimal use. But I'm in a basement with low airflow. I'd use a n95 dust max. I have a better mask with filters. But I'm only using water based acrylic. For the enamels I read a paint booth with a fan that can't ignite the vapors. Again though I think I'm reading about folks that may spend relatively long periods of time painting.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

vette-kid said:


> I've been looking at paint booths for it. Seems they just suck the air through a filter and don't need vented through a window?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk


For solvent-based paints, yes, you need to get rid of the fumes by exhausting to the outside. With acrylics, on the other hand, you just need to get rid of the droplets in the air, so pulling the air through a filter is sufficient. Note that for commercial spray booths,, you can spend a lot of money buying filters made for your unit, or you can buy inexpensive HEPA furnace filters at a hardware store and cut several small filters from one big one.

An N95 dust mask is also sufficient protection for acrylic paints. The advantage of the booth is it also keeps overspray from ending up where you don't want it.


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Thanks gents! I havn't done a lot of painting as yet, abs the room is closed off to others. I'll look more at the paint booth

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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

There's some small booths marketed to the hobby market - I think Latestarter has one he likes. And I think a fair number of dyi examples are out there to consider. I bet like me you've even considered your own design. For a vapor friendly version I've thought a motor offset to the spinning fan connected by a belt would work. But I wasn't really going to do that. I poked around on digikey once and found sealed "vapor friendly" muffin fans listed at I thought reasonable prices. But any old muffin fan could work in my mind for water based acrylics...

Basically box, open front, filter, closed sides and back, hole for the muffin... DC for the muffin so maybe a wall wart of the right output would suffice for a simple on/off power source.


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

Found this on marketplace...$200 for the paint booth, 35 createfx paints (mostly new unopened), some cleaner and accessories including a manifold and a few holders, an iwata hp-c, 2 Ophirs and one unbranded brush









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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Paint booth looks like mine. Collapsable model?


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

CTValleyRR said:


> Paint booth looks like mine. Collapsable model?


Ya, pretty slick really

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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

When that filter gets clogged up, build a frame that size out of styrene, and cut up HEPA furnace filters from the hardware store to fit. Much cheaper than the OEM replacements.


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## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

CTValleyRR said:


> When that filter gets clogged up, build a frame that size out of styrene, and cut up HEPA furnace filters from the hardware store to fit. Much cheaper than the OEM replacements.


Thanks for the tip!

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## 86TA355SR (Feb 27, 2015)

flyboy2610 said:


> ... Just my humble opinion (and we all know what opinions are like) but I'd seriously consider Badger.


Agreed, I’ve owned a Badger 200 for 35 years.

Use compressed nitrogen instead of air.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

86TA355SR said:


> Agreed, I’ve owned a Badger 200 for 35 years.
> 
> Use compressed nitrogen instead of air.


As with so much else in this hobby, there isn't one definitive answer -- it's a Ford vs Chevy thing. You won't go wrong with most offerings from the top brands.

But nitrogen? I'm sure you have your reasons for that recommendation, but I have to say that with a $120 compressor and all the air I want free for the taking, it would have to be an astronomical improvement in results to make the additional logistics worth it.


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## BobT (Mar 27, 2021)

86TA355SR said:


> Agreed, I’ve owned a Badger 200 for 35 years.
> 
> Use compressed nitrogen instead of air.


Dang, I should have thought of that. I have a tank of nitrogen in the garage from my dragbike days...Even have the correct fittings on the regulator.



CTValleyRR said:


> But nitrogen? I'm sure you have your reasons for that recommendation, but I have to say that with a $120 compressor and all the air I want free for the taking, it would have to be an astronomical improvement in results to make the additional logistics worth it.


Well it is very clean, and very dry.

I am going to try it, as it doesn't cost that much to fill the tank. And considering one tank could last most of the summer, filling slicks and the air shifter tank every run, it will probably last years running an airbrush. Of course, if you don't already have a tank, that'll cost ya.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

ive used iawata eclipse 2 times. the second time i thought: "Im not sure this fits my hand exactly that well and maybe the trigger is a little not exactly how i'd like" -- but i'm not sure what I do like. short of going to a store which had I dunno a couple of dozen or more models lined up to try -- i have no idea really what I like. To me iawata and maybe the others go for a kind of pencil hold... whereas i might like more of a pistol grip... 

further - speculating -- i might like some kind "digital" trigger where I spin a nob from 0-10 say -- and this the amount that goes out. whereas the analog trigger, you have to learn that and its tied to several variables as well (paint viscosity, air pressure, needle and so on)... not sure there's anything like that.

but the point is really that it isn't any wonder there are a large set of models because in fact there are a lot of variables against your skill level etc... so i see now why perhaps folks own several kinds.


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