# Changing code and height



## Dave NYC 1962 (Oct 17, 2020)

I’m running my mainline at code 80 on cork roadbed. I was thinking I’d have my yard in code 55. I can solder the transition together well enough but there is a significant height difference. I’m looking for some advice. Would it be better to raise the whole yard a bit or have a short grade? I think it might be hard to have a smooth grade with all the switches, but raising the whole yard would be hard too. Maybe a big sheet of styrene.

I have the same question for old spurs that shouldn’t be on a ballasted cork roadbed. What is the best way to change these elevations? You don’t really see a grade in real life. 

Dave


----------



## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

Try a package of wooden shims that are used to level and square-up doors and windows during installation. They make good short incline transitions. The ones at Lowes are like $1.58 for a package of 12. They have approximately a 3.2% grade, but that grade can be reduced to approx 2.4% by placing a piece of 1/16" card stock under the thin edge.

They are 1/4" at the thick end, but you can cut them to length. So cutting one in half would raise your track 1/8" in about 4" of length.


----------



## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

There are also longer ones that have closer to a 2% grade without needing to shim the shim. Wood shims work OK for straight sections, but for curves, you may need to use a few shims to increase the width.


----------



## Mixed Freight (Aug 31, 2019)

Dave NYC 1962 said:


> I’m running my mainline at code 80 on cork roadbed. I was thinking I’d have my yard in code 55. I can solder the transition together well enough but there is a significant height difference. I’m looking for some advice. Would it be better to raise the whole yard a bit or have a short grade? I think it might be hard to have a smooth grade with all the switches, but raising the whole yard would be hard too. Maybe a big sheet of styrene.
> 
> I have the same question for old spurs that shouldn’t be on a ballasted cork roadbed. What is the best way to change these elevations? You don’t really see a grade in real life.
> 
> Dave


Peco code 55? Or Atlas code 55?

Assuming you mean Atlas code 55, due to the transition soldering you mention. If so, just have a short (but not TOO short) grade. Wouldn't be very noticeable, either visually or operational-wise. And try not to have any switches on the grade, if possible. Although you could, just have to exercise a little extra caution to make sure everything runs good.

Actually, you can get some sheets of cork in rolls at Hobby Lobby or Michaels. The cork is just a tad thinner (2mm, if memory serves) than the cork roadbed (1/8"). Use it for your yards and/or sidings in lieu of styrene. Then, the transition grades would be almost negligible. And you're still in familiar territory.


----------



## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

The height difference between Code 80 and Code 55 track is, by definition 0.025". You'll need to line up the railhead at the transition point, but you don't need any kind of fancy grade. Shim up the end where the rails join and then just let the track slope down to it's natural level. The small grade this causes will not be an issue. Unless you're also planning to leave out the roadbed under the yard area. If so, use a large sheet of foam or Gatorboard to raise the Code 55 track. You might want to rethink the yard track, though. While a lightly used spur is definitely a candidate for lighter rail, most yards would use the same rail weight as the mainline.


----------



## Dave NYC 1962 (Oct 17, 2020)

CTValleyRR said:


> The height difference between Code 80 and Code 55 track is, by definition 0.025". You'll need to line up the railhead at the transition point, but you don't need any kind of fancy grade. Shim up the end where the rails join and then just let the track slope down to it's natural level. The small grade this causes will not be an issue. Unless you're also planning to leave out the roadbed under the yard area. If so, use a large sheet of foam or Gatorboard to raise the Code 55 track. You might want to rethink the yard track, though. While a lightly used spur is definitely a candidate for lighter rail, most yards would use the same rail weight as the mainline.


That’s interesting, I’ve seen a lot of modelers use the different codes so I guess I assumed that was the way to go. I did want to get the flat look of a yard, so no roadbed.


----------



## cv_acr (Oct 28, 2011)

CTValleyRR said:


> While a lightly used spur is definitely a candidate for lighter rail, most yards would use the same rail weight as the mainline.


That is not necessarily true.

Most of the tracks I've observed around here the main tracks are definitely laid with much heavier rail than any side track including yard tracks.

Yard and industrial tracks are used as slow speed and do not have to deal with the dynamics of a heavy freight train barrelling through at 60MPH.

Go ahead and step down in size on sidings, spurs and yard tracks.


----------

