# Questions on DIY for locos.



## JTW-BNSF (Nov 10, 2015)

I am looking to chat with a couple of experienced modelers on working on your own locos. I am relatively new to modeling. I started an n-scale Kato layout with a Digitrax Zephyr for the command station. I am also new to forums so any advice would be appreciated. Thank-you.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*What's your question.*



JTW-BNSF said:


> I am looking to chat with a couple of experienced modelers on working on your own locos. I am relatively new to modeling. I started an n-scale Kato layout with a Digitrax Zephyr for the command station. I am also new to forums so any advice would be appreciated. Thank-you.


JTW-BNSF;

I am an experienced N-scaler, and I have worked on locos. What is it you want to know/do?

Traction Fan


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

There's more than a couple on here! What sort of work are we talking?


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## JTW-BNSF (Nov 10, 2015)

*Work on locos.*

So o.k.,
Thank you both for responding. I have an Athearn EMD f-45 loco w/Tsunami sound. I purchased it about 3mos, ago at the hobby shop. It was running well. I decided to run it mu with my other loco, which is a Kato geES44AC BNSF loco. They were both pretty close in acceleration from a stop etc... They both ran ok for a while, then the Athearn simply quit running. No sound or power at all. After looking on the internet I was not sure if the wheels were crudy and not making contact, or if somehow I either burnt up the motor or there is something wrong with the decoder. I thought that I would try to get ahold of an amp-ohm meter and try to see where the power is or is not going. Am I on the right track? Do you have suggestions, especially on disassembling this loco. On some other websites it looked fairly involved. I am willing to learn however, and your help is much appreciated. JTW.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Is power getting to the loco and is the decoder reading? Is the red light on the Tsunami flashing to indicate power? If you remove the coupler boxes you should be able to remover the body. I'd be inclined to take it back to the shop if you're not sure about tackling it yourself.


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## powersteamguy1790 (Mar 26, 2012)

Put the the locomotive on your programming track and reset the Tsunami decoder to its factory defaults using CV 8=8 or CV 30=2.

Then try running your Athearn F45, on your mainline. On my layout I'm running nine Athearn F-45's with no problems.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Meter*



JTW-BNSF said:


> So o.k.,
> Thank you both for responding. I have an Athearn EMD f-45 loco w/Tsunami sound. I purchased it about 3mos, ago at the hobby shop. It was running well. I decided to run it mu with my other loco, which is a Kato geES44AC BNSF loco. They were both pretty close in acceleration from a stop etc... They both ran ok for a while, then the Athearn simply quit running. No sound or power at all. After looking on the internet I was not sure if the wheels were crudy and not making contact, or if somehow I either burnt up the motor or there is something wrong with the decoder. I thought that I would try to get ahold of an amp-ohm meter and try to see where the power is or is not going. Am I on the right track? Do you have suggestions, especially on disassembling this loco. On some other websites it looked fairly involved. I am willing to learn however, and your help is much appreciated. JTW.


BNSF;

Yes, getting yourself a multimeter is a great idea. You will find you use it a lot in this hobby. Here is a good place to get one www.allelectronics.com . The meter does not need to be elaborate or expensive. A basic $5 model will do the job.  I doubt you burned up the motor,or the decoder, you would smell it; and likely see smoke coming out. I would try Powersteamguy's programming track/check the decoder suggestion first, before disassembly of the loco. You should also be able too see "crud on the wheels. Clean both wheels and track with alcohol. If your Kato is still running well on the same track, that pretty well eliminates the track as a culprit. If the Kato and the track both work then the problem is in the athern. 

Traction Fan


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## JTW-BNSF (Nov 10, 2015)

Traction fan and others,
Thank-you for responding so quickly. I tried the reset first and it worked. Being new maybe I set some sort of cv other than what I was trying to do- I don't know.
Thanks for the info on disassembly too. I know that I will be able to use it at some point. Never fear, however- I have plenty more questions. I was told to switch my couplers over to all micro-train line. Is that a good idea? I have had some coupling problems in the past but am running all Kato together- all micro trains together etc... for now with pretty good results. However I am not mixing the two either. I know that I should be able to run any and all cars whenever I would imagine without problems. Also, should I run only the same type loco's together for an mu? Thanks for your patience with me- JTW-BNSF


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Decoders can sometimes do funny things. A reset usually sorts things out. Its all part of the learning curve.


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## JTW-BNSF (Nov 10, 2015)

To all,
thanks for your help. The photos and technical help on powersteamguy's website is awesome. It seems a lot of people run microtains couplers. Also, thanks to Cycleops for the info on removing the shell. Hopefully, all problems out of the way for now. JTW-BNSF


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## powersteamguy1790 (Mar 26, 2012)

JTW-BNSF said:


> To all,
> thanks for your help. The photos and technical help on powersteamguy's website is awesome. It seems a lot of people run microtains couplers. Also, thanks to Cycleops for the info on removing the shell. Hopefully, all problems out of the way for now. JTW-BNSF


Glad I could help JTW-BNSF


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Couplern compatability*



JTW-BNSF said:


> To all,
> thanks for your help. The photos and technical help on powersteamguy's website is awesome. It seems a lot of people run microtains couplers. Also, thanks to Cycleops for the info on removing the shell. Hopefully, all problems out of the way for now. JTW-BNSF


 BNSF;

In theory, all knuckle-type couplers should be able to work with each other. Thus you should be able to couple a Kato to an Atlas, or either to a micro trains. I've heard that this is not always true. I seem to remember a problem with Kato and Micro Trains not working well together. I use only Micro Trains, so I can't tell you from personal experience. The one coupler that will not work with any knuckle coupler is Rapido. These were used on early N scale equipment, and you may not have encountered them. They don't look anything like any of the others, so you will definitely be able to tell it apart.
Micro Trains are the most popular, and best in my opinion, and that of many other experienced modelers. They are also a bit more expensive, but they do offer an unusual feature. They can be uncoupled magnetically, and the car then pushed to another spot without re-coupling. Micro Train's patents on this system ran out a few years back and now, other brands may be able to do the same trick. However, many modelers prefer to uncouple at the car's final spot, with a hand-held tool. If you chose to use this method, then any brand of knuckle coupler should work for you. If you don't yet have all that many cars, this would be a good time to pick one standard type and brand of coupler. I'd recommend Micro Trains. :smilie_daumenpos:


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