# Help Needed With Kitbashing an Engine



## KisNap (Aug 4, 2014)

Hi,

I'm working on building 2 New Jersey Transit engines. I want to builld a GP40PH-2 and a GP40FH-2. In order to get this I need to cut up a SD45 cowl and a FP45 cowl. I'm going to use my Dremel and some cutting blades to get the cut right, but I would like to know if anyone has an idea as to how to reconnect the cut and shortened pieces.

I was thinking of using thicker styrene on the GP40FH beecause it will have extra room before the motor housing. The GP40PH won't have the extra room for that so I was thinking of a sheet of thin styrene. I just don't want them to bee to fragile that puttung pressure on the sides would break open the cut area.

The modified cowls are going onto Atlas GP40s. Below is the link to a picture of the undecorated shells. The area in red is the area I need to remove. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

Use either thin styrene sheets or strips. Epoxy is more flexible that super glue.

I have not kit bashed yet, but have had to repair cracks in locomotive shells caused by prying in the wrong spot or applying too much pressure.


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## I Am Fasha (Apr 2, 2013)

I would suggest that you not cut exactly where you want to remove the pieces from with your drimmel. Leave more than you need when doing this, then go back with a small file or sand paper and remove what's not needed. IMO there are two things wrong with using a drimmel on plastic: one the drimmel can get away from you and you end up cutting more than you needed too and two, the speed of the cutting tool tends to spin so fast that it can and will melt the plastic.


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## DaveInTheHat (Nov 13, 2011)

The body looks more like resin than plastic. If it's resin super glue doesn't hold as good as epoxy. I agree with cutting it close and then using a file or sandpaper to get it to the cut line. Backing up the seam with thin plastic would add considerable strength to the joint.


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