# Code 83 or Code 100?



## Dr Bob (Dec 31, 2013)

So I am close to laying track on a shelf HO layout and was thinking of using code 83 track. However, I am a returning model railroader with locomotives that are from the 1970s and 1980s that I want to use and I have been reading that code 100 is best for older equipment. I would be interested in any advice or experience anyone would like to provide related to my track selection. 

Thanks.

Dr Bob


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## FRED On Board (Jan 2, 2014)

Dr. Bob, (et al)...

A narrow view based on limited experience:

I have used Atlas code 83 flex track and Atlas code 83 turnouts (nos 4, 6 and wye) exclusively since the mid 1990's and have had no issues with diesel locomotives or running stock such as Athearn "blue box", Roundhouse, Bachman Silver Series, IHC or others except for one "blue box" EMD SD that wanted to derail about half the time as it made its way through an S-curve of about 20 inch radius or slightly more...No other C-truck locomotives or running stock from the manufacturers dating back to the 1980's mentioned above had any problems...All locomotives and running stock are fitted with Kadee couplers and each is checked for proper height and fit using a Kadee gauge...And I have not had issues of uncoupling or derailing with Atlas turnouts as reported by many here on the forum.

My track has always been laid atop commercial cork roadbed and the roadbed has always been glued to homasote which is put down atop 1/2-inch plywood benchwork...The track and the turnouts are "spiked" to the roadbed every 2 inches or whatever the distance is between the pre-drilled holes in the ties as manufactured and it is never glued.

I chose Atlas code 83 because of its usually widespread availability from a number of hobby shops and I like its appearance when laid down atop the cork roadbed as mentioned...I do not paint either the nickel-silver rails or the ties and as the flex track and the turnouts are installed "out of the box" I think they look good enough with lightly applied ballast that replicates prototypical crushed stone or rock.

FWIW,

Bruce /FRED On Board
ATSF, BN, SP, UP


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## Dr Bob (Dec 31, 2013)

Thanks Fred. I read both your responses to my threads. I am planning on using cork roadbed glued to foam and then glue the track to the roadbed with minimal glue. I have been out of model RR since 1988 so my rolling stock and locomotives are of that vintage. I have some nicely decorated Athearn locomotives I want to use. I will be wiring for DC. I have some Atlas track and turnouts that are code 100 from my 1988 layout, but I am thinking I will upgrade to at least Peco turnouts for this layout. I am just trying to decide if I stick with code 100 because I know it works, or roll the dice and hope I can run on code 83. I plan on painting the track so I am wondering if my aging eyes will be able to tell the difference between code 83 and code 100 once it is painted and ballasted.

Thanks again.

Dr Bob


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

The ties and the spacing are the biggest visual difference between 83 and 100.
For my money code 83 looks better and all my Athearn Blue Box cars run just fine on it, haven't run my old Athearn locos much as I'm DCC but when I did they seemed to do ok. 
I have replaced all wheel sets with steel wheels, plastic wheels are a no go for me. An extra expense but well worth it. 

But (there's always a but) Code 100 seems to me to be much easier to work with.
Small imperfections in the road bed aren't as much of a problem as code 100 is a bit stronger track. Easier to put cars on the rails also, at least for me, that little extra height seems to make a difference, more finger clearance.??? If your old track is brass as mine was would suggest not using it, go nickle silver. 

A lot depends on how big your layout will be and what you like most. A smaller layout with a lot of detail might call for code 83. 

Magic


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## golfermd (Apr 19, 2013)

FRED On Board said:


> My track has always been laid atop commercial cork roadbed and the roadbed has always been glued to homasote which is put down atop 1/2-inch plywood benchwork...


Bruce, have you had any problems with humidity/temperature changes and the homasote? Drives us crazy at the club. That's why I plan to use plywood and a foam sheet base.

Dan


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## FRED On Board (Jan 2, 2014)

golfermd said:


> Bruce, have you had any problems with humidity/temperature changes and the homasote? Drives us crazy at the club. That's why I plan to use plywood and a foam sheet base.
> 
> Dan


Dan, the simple answer is "no"...Knowing it is glued paper, I had this concern when I first used it twenty years ago, but it has remained stable and without any problem...The qualifier to my experience is that it is nearly always in my home and thus in a climate controlled area, except one time when we were without electric power for several days when I lived in Houston, following Huricane Ike...I really lke homasote: From my experience, it is near perfect for glue-down of most landscaping materials that are suitable for glue-down and for cork used as roadbed, which is always the choice here...I think contributes in a small way to abating the electric motor and geartrain noise of my diesel locos...And yes, it is more difficult to cut than foam but I can climb atop the layout if needed and not be concerned about damaging the surface. 

Bruce /FRED On Board
ATSF, BN, SP, UP


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## Dr Bob (Dec 31, 2013)

Update.

When I finally opened my collection of track from 25 years ago, I had much more code 100 flex track and turnouts than I remembered. Also, the turnout are all "tuned" to work smoothly so I am going with code 100. This is all nickel silver track not brass.

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions.

Dr Bob


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## golfermd (Apr 19, 2013)

Thanks, Bruce. Yeah, a stable environment would make it great. However, the A/C or heaters at the club aren't turned on except when someone is there. Which explains why there is so much variation there. We can't afford to run the A/C or heat all the time since we are the only tenants in the building. And our layout pretty much takes up all the space. We are in a county park building.


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## riogrande (Apr 28, 2012)

Most HO equipment will run on code 83 just fine, and it looks closer to most mainline track - 132 lb. Code 100 is a bit over sized except the largest of prototype rail which is around 155 lb.

Frankly I'm using both. My staging hard is all code 100 for durability and the visible portion of my layout will have code 83 and some code 70 for sidings.


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## golfermd (Apr 19, 2013)

I will be using code 83. All the visible mainline track at our club is code 100, and it was hand laid. My hands aren't steady enough to lay individual ties, track, and individual spikes in the desired shape. We also have a master modeler who also scratch built some of our structures.


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