# C’mon guys. Any locomotive or car projects happening?



## Krieglok

I have two painting projects coming up. It’s been a while...

One is a re-lettering job that I will try to get right on an MTH USRA 0-6-0. It is currently lettered for C&NW but I am going to make it into a NYC locomotive. 

I have the decals and picked up some lacquer thinner today. I never tried removing just lettering from a model, so good results are not guaranteed!

Next will be a undecorated Atlas three Rail GP9 which I will be painting into Penn Central. It is basic black with just decaling and handrail painting. There just isn’t enough Penn Central stuff out there...

Finally, I have a MTH NYC woodside caboose I am altering and painting. It is a Railking caboose and for some reason, MTH designed it with the trucks too close to the ends. I am moving the trucks inward to their proper locations and doing some painting. 

Hopefully I will have some results for you all soon.

Tom


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## Norton

I have started rebuilding my MTH FEF. Most parts except the boiler have been stripped and repainted black. Major missing pieces like the front truck and tender frame have arrived. Motor mount made and Pittman motor installed. Next hurdle is to complete the smokebox front. 

Here is what I started with.










Frame with front truck installed and 9433 15.1v Pittman. I may swap the motor out for a larger 9434 as there is room. After tuning it draws .1 amp at 2 volts.








Pete


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## Krieglok

Pete, That is quite an undertaking. I haven’t the facilities to do “heavy repairs” just yet. 

It will be great to see your finished project!

Tom


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## c.midland

Walthers baggage car:


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## Krieglok

Wow! Is the baggage car a recent release? I like the detailing. 

Tom


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## Spence

No engine or car work lately. In the midst of doing scenery on the layout.


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## Big Jim

Is it too early for a Christmas car project?


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## Krieglok

Big Jim said:


> Is it too early for a Christmas car project?


Never! Let’s see what you have!

Tom


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## Big Jim

Krieglok said:


> Never! Let’s see what you have!
> 
> Tom


OK, see "The Night Before Christmas" thread.


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## Norton

Modified a flywheel from a Lionel J3 Hudson for the FEF project. Added the brass ring machined from a pipe elbow so I could mount a tach tape. This engine will get PS3. Would have skipped the ring if this was going to get ERR.









Pete


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## Yellowstone Special

Spence said:


> In the midst of doing scenery on the layout.


Uh, ahem. Excuse me Spence. But shouldn't you be on your way back to paradise by now?


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## Toy train hobby

No interesting or worthwhile projects like others have shared, but I did make a sign for an animated accessory on my layout. It started out as a key fob (a joke), but have since decided to use it on the layout instead.


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## Yellowstone Special

Love the "Poo Master." 

I recently replaced a storage track with a parking lot for the grandkids' vehicles. They like to play with them on the covered adjacent pool table when they get tired of running the trains.









Hadn't made any changes on this layout in a long time.


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## Toy train hobby

Thanks, Vern. Nice collection of diecast vehicles you have there. They are the must-have, for grandkids and model railroad hobbyists alike.


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## Krieglok

Pete building flywheels. Cool. The metalwork you guys do here always impresses me.

Doug, the Poo Master is well placed, especially with the door open. Fun when a freight train passes but a bit embarrassing when a passenger train goes by and everyone is looking in!

Vern, funny how the kids gravitate towards the cars they move with their hands. I guess they prefer the play value of cars and trucks. Just don’t leave them on the tracks! 
Are those Ford pick up trucks? They look sharp.

Tom


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## Pingman

A couple of passenger train projects. One is painting/decorating two LIONEL 15" aluminum offset domes in Northern Pacific North Coast Limited livery. They will complete a seven-car NP NCL train pulled by PW F-3 AB locomotives that I did about 15 years ago.

I was fortunate to find a skilled painter to shoot the vista domes (after I had tried every masking technique and product I could find and failed repeatedly), and I had custom decals made for the project several years ago.

One will be NP NCL dome coach 559 and the other dome sleeper 306. Both prototypes were owned by SP&S Ry. Co. and used on the NCL and the models will be decorated accordingly.

The other paint project is another PW F-3 AA pair pulling a seven car consist of LIONEL 15" aluminum cars decorated in Great Northern Empire Builder livery.

I'll post some photos of these projects when I'm done or close to being done.


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## Toy train hobby

Thanks, Tom. The well-placed shovel adds to the theme.


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## Yellowstone Special

Thanks Doug. Yes, die cast vehicles really are a must-have for those of us train runners with grandkids. 



Krieglok said:


> Vern, funny how the kids gravitate towards the cars they move with their hands. I guess they prefer the play value of cars and trucks. Just don’t leave them on the tracks!
> Are those Ford pick up trucks? They look sharp.Tom


Thanks Tom. It IS interesting how grandkids of certain ages love playing with those as much or more as they do running the trains. 

Of the 3 pickups in the parking lot photo, the first 2 are Fords that came with a Lionel Union Pacific flatcar I obtained several years ago on Ebay at a steal. I now use the flatcar on a shelf display with a Greyhound Scenicruiser as its load.









The other Ford pickup came with a Lionel Santa Fe flatcar. I also use this flatcar on the same shelf display as a log car when it's not on the layout. The "logs" were really support dowels used to hold up a third loop of elevated track on the layout. But with 3 trains running all on Fastrack, it was so noisy, you couldn't even carry on a conversation. So I took it down. I know, too much information. Sorry.


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## Krieglok

Vern, They look like ‘51 Fords. Nice. The Greyhound bus is equally as impressive.

The elevated loop must have been something. Those dowels look pretty substantial. Is your entire layout winter scenes? Looks great.

I have a friend who does HO and N scale. When he found out I was getting into O scale, he told me they were going to be noisy. To me, that’s half the fun...lol

Tom


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## Krieglok

Toy train hobby said:


> Thanks, Tom. The well-placed shovel adds to the theme.


Doug, I missed that. A coal scoop! Very railroad!

Tom


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## Toy train hobby

Thanks, Tom. The Ford pickups are before my time, but I do remember the GMC Scenicruisers. Nice looking collection, Vern.

At the risk of deviation from topic, I noticed that the Spanish company, Pegaso (Z-403) had built a similar design before GM, from 1951 to 1957. Certainly not as popular as the GM units.

Sorry... back to trains and diecast.


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## Yellowstone Special

Thanks again, Doug and Tom.

Tom: The elevated train did run well and I never had a derailment with the train crashing down. I remember that when I was on OGR, photos were posted when it was finished a few years back. 

The Fastrack layout has served me well over the past 8 years, but it is a little noisy. But it's easy to install and for me has been trouble-free.

And yes, it is a permanent winter layout built for the Polar Express train with my wife's Dept. 56 and Lemax buildings and my trains. 

Here's a not-so-good photo of it from about 5 years ago with the elevated loop.









I too, apologize for wandering off topic.


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## Krieglok

That quite a feat of engineering there, Vern. Looks like there was room for two tracks up top.

That is really nice that you and your wife can share hobbies. The buildings look great with all the snow. The lighting is amazing too. 

No problem wandering off topic. It’s all interesting.

Doug, a Spanish Greyhound...funny. Perhaps it built under license from Pegaso by GMC...lol.

Tom


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## Yellowstone Special

Thanks Tom.


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## WITZ 41

My 3rd rail E7 modification has been on pause. I was close to finishing and while attempting to put the door hand grabs back in the nose I tore the herald decal. Grrrrr! So pissed I had to walk away for a while. I'll get back to it.

Converting to circa 1948


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## Millstonemike

Been working on this Lionel 1920's tinplate train. I have the Lionel 248 electric loco pictured and eight 529/629 passenger cars - six coaches and 2 observation cars - all mostly painted. I plan on running four passenger cars behind and four in front with the 248 in the middle. An observation car will trail and lead the train.

Here's my dilemma, the white, light blue and dark blue scheme doesn't mesh well with brass. I'd really like all the "metal" to be nickel. I can buy the whistle and handrails (both missing in the pic) in nickel as well as the pantograph. But the ladders and doors are not available. I thinking painting them white.

Opinions?

BTW: all these trains were purchased rusted and/or previously repainted, not worth saving the original paint.


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## CKCECB

I have a few project from last year that were back burnered for the summer.

The easy one is an LED lighting install for an MTH caboose. But it might not be so easy because the interior isn't wide open like I thought it would be.

The next project is to build some test rollers. I bought all of the parts last winter, I just need to find where I buried them on the bench.

The tougher one is to do a repaint of a K-line MP-15. My son is really into Pokemon, and wants a locomotive painted yellow like one of the characters. I found a cheap donor on ebay last year. It was a repainted CNW that was heavily coated with black krylon. I soaked the shell for over a month in simple green, and got most of the black off, and then it got humid and I didn't want to mess around with the airbrush. Now it's an early winter here in Wisconsin, and this one might get back burnered again unless I finally make a spray booth (guess that will be project #4).


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## Krieglok

WITZ, the E7 looks great. The pilot is really interesting with all the slots and the hidden coupler. Sometimes it is best to step away from a project if it doesn’t work out right away. I do it all the time! UP always looks great!

Millstonemike, the trains look great. Quite a restoration job and well done. It it possible to powder coat the ladders with silver? I recall seeing home chrome plating kits somewhere. Perfect for small projects.

CKCECB, you have many irons in the fire! Like many of us...lots to do and not enough time. Test rollers are really handy. I don’t have a layout to test run engines on, so they are the next best thing . 

Is your locomotive going to be a “Picachu” (sp) engine? That should look cool when it is done. Build that spray booth!

Tom


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## Dave Connolly

Started working on a Labelle based baggage car for my Rutland RR. Found 2 photos to go by. The 3 window doors, with one being doubled are correct for the car I’m trying to model. Everything you have ever read about building a Labelle kit is true. Instructions are very basic. But there is some more info available on line. 
Using the basic kit for the chassis and the car ends was easily done. I scratch built the sides to represent the car no. I’m modeling. I find it sometimes easier to scratchbuild rather than try to interpret instructions. Seeing this car has no visible interior and it may often be at the head end of a consist. I overbuilt it to make it rugged and to have some weight to it.
The trucks are Atlas Commonwealth. Mounted much like trucks on a brass car. An aluminum plate was fabricated to secure the truck as well as the Kadee coupler. It tracks the layout very well.


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## Krieglok

Nice! I see you are one of those “tiny coupler” guys, lol. 

The three rail/scale is a great concept. The baggage car is really coming along nicely. How old is the kit? I never hear of them before. The Rutland coach coupled to it, looks outstanding also. 

Tom


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## Dave Connolly

Tom, the combine is a repainted MTH car. I put the 2 back to back to see what they looked like coupled. The letter boards are off but the roof heights seem close. Labelle has been around for a long time. You can buy direct. I picked this car up on eBay along with a combine for cheap money. When modeling the Rutland not a lot is available for the late steam era that’s RTR. 
Although I got the cars at a deal. An order to Micromark for supplies offset that. I’m going to finish up the other side. Then I’m waiting for the kit to round off the roof ends. Then just have to figure out the underbody details.


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## pokey_toaster

Krieglok said:


> I have two painting projects ....
> ... have the decals and picked up some lacquer thinner ....
> Tom


I'm not familiar with MTH 0-6-0s but lacquer thinner is probably too hot and if it's plastic will take the paint off and then melt a hole into it. To remove just decals, often Solvaset decal setting solution will be able to remove them. If it is a flat surface, 800 or 1000 grit sandpaper glued to a block will help.

There are lots of different methods for removing decals and not all methods apply to all situations. I'm sure Google could fill in the gaps. The only thing I use lacquer thinner for is thinning enamel paint and cleaning up the airbrush afterwards.

Paul


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## Yellowstone Special

WITZ 41 said:


> My 3rd rail E7 modification has been on pause. I was close to finishing and while attempting to put the door hand grabs back in the nose I tore the herald decal. Grrrrr! So pissed I had to walk away for a while. I'll get back to it.
> 
> Converting to circa 1948


I know the feeling and a setback like that can be very frustrating. I live in Union Pacific country and your E7 looks great so far. Please post another photo of the finished product when the time comes.

Nice work! :thumbsup:


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## Norton

pokey_toaster said:


> I'm not familiar with MTH 0-6-0s but lacquer thinner is probably too hot and if it's plastic will take the paint off and then melt a hole into it. To remove just decals, often Solvaset decal setting solution will be able to remove them. If it is a flat surface, 800 or 1000 grit sandpaper glued to a block will help.
> 
> There are lots of different methods for removing decals and not all methods apply to all situations. I'm sure Google could fill in the gaps. The only thing I use lacquer thinner for is thinning enamel paint and cleaning up the airbrush afterwards.
> 
> Paul


Good idea to test a stripper first in an inconspicuous place first. I would not use lacquer thinner on any plastic model. The only place I would use it is on Lionel and MTH diecast engines. That base paint is pretty durable. Don't use it on brass either as that paint will come off as easily as the lettering.

Pete


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## CKCECB

Krieglok said:


> Is your locomotive going to be a “Picachu” (sp) engine? That should look cool when it is done. Build that spray booth!
> 
> Tom


Tom, yes he wants a Pikachu theme train. The shell just went back into some more simple green this morning for a soak to try to lift a little more paint. That stuff works well at a nonaggressive pace. We originally tried a father son paint project last spring trying to just brush on some yellow Testor's Model Master acrylic yellow, and that was a disaster. That mostly stripped off easily. Going back to my tried and true oil based enamel for this next attempt.

We went to Trainfest yesterday, so my motivation is up for project work again!

Chris


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## c.midland

Mr. Connolly, nice to see someone else building a LaBelle kit! There's only a handful of us out there anymore.


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## Millstonemike

Krieglok said:


> ...
> Millstonemike, the trains look great. Quite a restoration job and well done. It it possible to powder coat the ladders with silver? I recall seeing home chrome plating kits somewhere. Perfect for small projects.
> 
> Tom


Thanks, and two good suggestions. 

I looked at powder coating and it's somewhat of an investment for my "one-off" need. And I wouldn't mind the extra shine from chrome plating and will research that. But I have reservations that chrome will show every imperfection. Maybe that's not an issue "in person". But the high-res pics show everything. How can I post that 

I had tried DIY nickel plating at home, several times. And the results were mediocre - clumpy plating - despite my best efforts. I'd love a local shop that would plate small parts at a reasonable price but that's not available; c'est la vie.


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## Krieglok

Thanks for the responses and the suggestions with my project. I will definitely keep everyone posted as to my progress. 

Also, make sure you modelers keep your progress/projects showing on the site. We are all interested in seeing them!

Tom


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## lou1985

Pick up a MTH Premier Santa Fe Blue Goose Hudson in late June. The locomotive was missing all the electronics and wiring but was otherwise intact. The tender was just the shell. I was able to get the tender frame, trucks, and steps from MTH. About 2 weeks ago I finally installed a PS3 kit and LED lights. So now it's running and running great.


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## lou1985

Norton said:


> I have started rebuilding my MTH FEF. Most parts except the boiler have been stripped and repainted black. Major missing pieces like the front truck and tender frame have arrived. Motor mount made and Pittman motor installed. Next hurdle is to complete the smokebox front.
> 
> Here is what I started with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Frame with front truck installed and 9433 15.1v Pittman. I may swap the motor out for a larger 9434 as there is room. After tuning it draws .1 amp at 2 volts.
> View attachment 513952
> 
> 
> Pete



How do you plan on handling the MARS light with the PS3 kit? The MARS light only comes on in reverse or an emergency stop, but the PS3 kit doesn't have the wiring in the boiler to deal with that.


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## Norton

To be honest I hadn't thought that far ahead. There is a board in the engine that may do that but if not I could easily build an add on board to perform that function if required. Just a matter of detecting the direction of motor voltage.
I am still dealing with the cosmetics at this point.

Pete


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## lou1985

Norton said:


> To be honest I hadn't thought that far ahead. There is a board in the engine that may do that but if not I could easily build an add on board to perform that function if required. Just a matter of detecting the direction of motor voltage.
> I am still dealing with the cosmetics at this point.
> 
> Pete


I'm curious what you do. Someone I know locally wants to convert a Weaver FEF to PS3 and is trying to figure out the MARS light situation. My thought was to run a small two pin harness, connected to the reverse light, to trigger the light when the locomotive goes into reverse. But then there is that small two pin harness next to the 10 pin one.


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## Norton

I'll keep you posted Lou. I will try and find out what the small board that was mounted to the steam dome does. This engine was largely gutted but that board and the smoke unit were still in the shell. If sensing motor direction works and I don't see any reason it wouldn't, then you wouldn't need the two wire tether.

Pete


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## Millstonemike

Norton said:


> To be honest I hadn't thought that far ahead. There is a board in the engine that may do that but if not I could easily build an add on board to perform that function if required. Just a matter of detecting the direction of motor voltage.
> I am still dealing with the cosmetics at this point.
> 
> Pete


Perhaps, there's already an output for a backup light (for the tender?) that could also drive the MARS light.


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## Norton

There is a drive for the backup light but he electronics are in the tender so it would require adding two extra wires into the engine. Plus if this is actually a mars light it would need to flash.

Pete


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## lou1985

Norton said:


> There is a drive for the backup light but he electronics are in the tender so it would require adding two extra wires into the engine. Plus if this is actually a mars light it would need to flash.
> 
> Pete



The red light on the FEFs had 2 settings: 

If the locomotive was in reverse it was solid red.

If the locomotive was in emergency brake/stop then the MARS portion of the light was activated.


This little detail is what's stumping me. I figured best case would be to somehow wire the light to the reverse light (using an extra small connector between the locomotive and tender) and just have it come on solid red when the train is in reverse, skipping the MARS effect. I can't figure out a way to make both happen from the PS3 steam upgrade kit. Not enough board outputs. Although a factory MTh Premier FEF just has the red light come on solid in reverse, so that's an option.


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## HarborBelt1970

lou1985 said:


> Pick up a MTH Premier Santa Fe Blue Goose Hudson in late June. The locomotive was missing all the electronics and wiring but was otherwise intact. The tender was just the shell. I was able to get the tender frame, trucks, and steps from MTH. About 2 weeks ago I finally installed a PS3 kit and LED lights. So now it's running and running great.


That is a great project. I assume that the electronics were PS and were gutted because they did not work (or something) but I can't imagine why the tender parts went too. Anyway, great work restoring it.


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## lou1985

HarborBelt1970 said:


> lou1985 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Pick up a MTH Premier Santa Fe Blue Goose Hudson in late June. The locomotive was missing all the electronics and wiring but was otherwise intact. The tender was just the shell. I was able to get the tender frame, trucks, and steps from MTH. About 2 weeks ago I finally installed a PS3 kit and LED lights. So now it's running and running great.
> 
> 
> 
> That is a great project. I assume that the electronics were PS and were gutted because they did not work (or something) but I can't imagine why the tender parts went too. Anyway, great work restoring it.
Click to expand...

Actually it was from the first issue, which had PS2 5V. The missing parts were gone because it was part of a group of extra locomotives produced during the run by MTH for spare parts. That's why the boards, tender frame, tender end steps, tender toolboxes, and tender trucks were missing. Otherwise it was like new. The motor had never been run and the wheels had never rode on rails till I got it going. 

I got it from a guy who gets bunches of Premier steam in similar condition from MTH when they get rid of extra stuff. I can't say where it comes from so the guy doesn't get bombarded. Plus I need to keep my line a secret. I should have another project from the same source soon.


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## Norton

My FEF came from the same source in the same condition. Like the Blue Goose it had never been on the tracks but stripped of parts.

Another example of cobbing parts together.

The front on the right is what came with the engine. The front in the middle came with a bunch of parts needed to complete this engine but was missing a number board. The 765 board was included but had to be modified to fit. The front on the left is from a Lionel engine. I would have preferred to use it but fitting it would have required major machine work and risk damaging both the shell and the front. 









This is the result with the modified number board and "glass with numbers" from the Lionel front.









FYI Lou I have a request to find out if this engine ever had the capability of flashing red on fast stops. It could be done but would require more sophisticated circuitry than simply turning solid red on reverse.

Pete


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## lou1985

Norton said:


> FYI Lou I have a request to find out if this engine ever had the capability of flashing red on fast stops. It could be done but would require more sophisticated circuitry than simply turning solid red on reverse.
> 
> Pete



I'd be interested to find out if the MTH version was capable of that from the factory. Seems like the best I could do with the Weaver FEF for my buddy with the PS3 kit would be having the red light come on in reverse. Having the PS3 board from the kit send a signal to another board to flash the red light when the brake button is double tapped on the DCS remote might be beyond my capabilities/the capabilities of the PS3 board in the kit.


Nice job on combining the MTH and Lionel parts into one boiler front btw. Looks great. Hopefully you'll have it up and running soon.


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## Norton

FEF project continues. Got it in color. Lots of masking on the piping and appliances. Should have decals next week, then a final clear coat.









Pete


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## Millstonemike

Norton said:


> FEF project continues. Got it in color. Lots of masking on the piping and appliances. Should have decals next week, then a final clear coat.
> 
> View attachment 515624
> 
> 
> Pete


Nice. Paint process?


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## MichaelE

My Great-grandfather was a streetcar operator in Belleville, Illinois in the '20's. Not exactly an engineer, but we seem to have electric locomotive blood in the family.


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## Norton

Millstonemike said:


> Nice. Paint process?


Shells were stripped in aircraft stripper. The silver is a witches brew of Floquil and Tru Color paints including silver, brass, black, graphite, and aluminum. The black is PJ1 special satin removed from the rattle can and shot through my airbrush. Piping was masked off with liquid masker from Micro Mark.
Pete


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## Millstonemike

Norton said:


> Shells were stripped in aircraft stripper. The silver is a witches brew of Floquil and Tru Color paints including silver, brass, black, graphite, and aluminum. The black is PJ1 special satin removed from the rattle can and shot through my airbrush. Piping was masked off with liquid masker from Micro Mark.
> Pete


Great results ... but way beyond my painting endeavors I'm just trying to master Rustoleum rattle can. Fortunately I painting prewar tinplate, a couple of basic colors, no scale detail. I do sandblast down to the bare metal and that gives me a bit of a head start for a nice coat.


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## Norton

Many folks are put off at the thought of using an airbrush but its actually easier and you will get better results than using a rattle can, at least for solid colors like this. The spray droplets are much finer as well as the pattern. While I do have double action airbrushes, this was done with my 40+ year old Paasche H single action. One button just like a spray can.
Thats why I emptied the rattle can of PJ1 into a bottle then used it in my airbrush, just for the better control and finer spray.
Pete


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## Krieglok

The engine looks great! I agree about airbrushing. I used to airbrush models all the time. The set up and post cleaning can be a drag and the results are worth it.

I must admit though, I am getting lazy in my old age and have an assortment of Scale Coat 2 color spray cans for some upcoming projects...

Tom


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## lou1985

Norton said:


> FEF project continues. Got it in color. Lots of masking on the piping and appliances. Should have decals next week, then a final clear coat.
> 
> View attachment 515624
> 
> 
> Pete


Looks great. Are you going to gloss coat the model before decals are applied? I'm guessing you are using Microscale decals?


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## Norton

The lettering will be mostly vinyl stick on made by a friend of our mutual friend. I will use some gloss for a small warning decal that goes on the tender. There is a guy on ebay that has decals for 844 and 4014 (same sheet) along with decals for the two yellow water tenders (also same sheet) running today.
I am undecided what the final finish will be but likely either gloss or semi gloss as I am doing the engine as it appears today. I will also likely remove the red warning light from the front as I see its not present today so won't have to deal with making it work as it did in the past.

Pete


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## gunrunnerjohn

Norton said:


> I have a request to find out if this engine ever had the capability of flashing red on fast stops. It could be done but would require more sophisticated circuitry than simply turning solid red on reverse.
> 
> Pete


What would be the point of the front light flashing red when it was stopping fast? I'd think that would be somewhat pointless.


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## lou1985

Norton said:


> The lettering will be mostly vinyl stick on made by a friend of our mutual friend. I will use some gloss for a small warning decal that goes on the tender. There is a guy on ebay that has decals for 844 and 4014 (same sheet) along with decals for the two yellow water tenders (also same sheet) running today.
> I am undecided what the final finish will be but likely either gloss or semi gloss as I am doing the engine as it appears today. I will also likely remove the red warning light from the front as I see its not present today so won't have to deal with making it work as it did in the past.
> 
> Pete


So you are going that route. I'm considering that for an upcoming project where I will be converting a Premier WP GS64 to a SP GS6. I think it will end up turning out better than using Microscale decals. Just put the lettering on and over coat everything in satin clear, in my case.


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## lou1985

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Norton said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a request to find out if this engine ever had the capability of flashing red on fast stops. It could be done but would require more sophisticated circuitry than simply turning solid red on reverse.
> 
> Pete
> 
> 
> 
> What would be the point of the front light flashing red when it was stopping fast? I'd think that would be somewhat pointless.
Click to expand...

The real 844 does it so it would be neat to have that feature. Not that it would get used much.

I just like to make things more difficult.


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## Millstonemike

Experimenting with silhouettes for the prewar tinplate.

Just plain paper in the laser printer to start. I spent a few hours putting "registration marks" on the image that line up with the protruding tabs inside the car - a trial an error process. I use an E-acto knife to create slits in the paper on those marks. This approach aligns the image with the car windows for easy installation (but I need a bit more tweaking as can be seen in the pic). I also plan to add LED lighting in the car to illuminate the silhouettes.



















Millstonemike said:


> Been working on this Lionel 1920's tinplate train. I have the Lionel 248 electric loco pictured and eight 529/629 passenger cars - six coaches and 2 observation cars - all mostly painted. I plan on running four passenger cars behind and four in front with the 248 in the middle. An observation car will trail and lead the train.


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## Norton

Love the colors on the 248 Mike. I just did a repair on one for a friend. He wanted the patina left so just new parts and wiring.

Pete


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## Norton

John, no idea why the red light would flash on rapid stops but if thats what the real ones do it would ne neat.

Lou, I have two fronts so will leave one with the red light and the other without.

Pete


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## lou1985

Norton said:


> Lou, I have two fronts so will leave one with the red light and the other without.
> 
> Pete


Which one are you going to permanently use? If the one with the red light for now I would just add a small harness to light it when the reverse light is on.


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## Norton

It will depend on how the front w/o the light turns out. MTH put a big hole in the front for the warning light and being zamac I will have to use body filler. I prefer the look without the light though.









Pete


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Pete, I believe the red light was a MARS light, that's what Lionel bills it as. They have a kit to add the light to their Legacy model.

Here's a video of the actual #844 before they took it off, and later in the video you can see the MARS light actually operating. 






I'm pretty sure this was used for the same function as any other MARS or Gyrolight, to warn people of the approaching train. It certainly makes no sense to me they'd only activate it when they were stopping, stopped trains aren't nearly as dangerous as trains doing 70+ MPH down the tracks!

I don't know where you get the information about it being used to indicate a sudden stop.


----------



## Norton

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I don't know where you get the information about it being used to indicate a sudden stop.


I read it on the internet. Here, as a matter of fact, so it must be true.

Pete


----------



## lou1985

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Pete, I believe the red light was a MARS light, that's what Lionel bills it as. They have a kit to add the light to their Legacy model.
> 
> Here's a video of the actual #844 before they took it off, and later in the video you can see the MARS light actually operating.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvTa2EyKlUQ
> 
> I'm pretty sure this was used for the same function as any other MARS or Gyrolight, to warn people of the approaching train. It certainly makes no sense to me they'd only activate it when they were stopping, stopped trains aren't nearly as dangerous as trains doing 70+ MPH down the tracks!
> 
> I don't know where you get the information about it being used to indicate a sudden stop.





Norton said:


> I read it on the internet. Here, as a matter of fact, so it must be true.
> 
> Pete



It's actually rule 17b in the Uniform code of operating rules:

_"Rule 17 (b). Red Oscillating Headlight.-- On engines equippped with a red oscillating headlight, such headlight will be displayed by day or by night when train is stopped suddenly under circumstances in which adjacent tracks may be fouled, or when head end protection is required.

The red oscillating headlight must be extinguished when necessity no longer exists.

A headlight burning red is a signal for an approaching train on the same or adjacent track to stop before passing such headlight, and be governed by conditions."

_


----------



## lou1985

Norton said:


> It will depend on how the front w/o the light turns out. MTH put a big hole in the front for the warning light and being zamac I will have to use body filler. I prefer the look without the light though.
> 
> View attachment 515960
> 
> 
> Pete


I always forget that you end up having to Bondo holes in zamac. If you can blend it well it should be unnoticeable. I also prefer the front sans MARS light. I'm guessing that the smoke deflectors are going back on as well?


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

How about that, so it's not the "stopping" itself, it's when the train is sitting on the tracks. I"m assuming maybe they're worried about opposing traffic on the same track?

I would think "_when head end protection is required_" would be anytime you're running forward.


----------



## Norton

Implementing the flashing light when stopped would be easier than while its stopping suddenly. Thanks for the clarification.

Pete


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## lou1985

Flashing red light when the train is stopped for an emergency. So it could be activated when fully stopped or when slowing for an emergency stop. I'm still unsure how to make the light flash when stopped for an emergency. Lighting steady in reverse is easy but flashing when stopped is a bit trickier.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Well, I have a module that detects when the motor is getting power, that would be a pretty positive way to know it's stopped. If you want the cool MARS flashing, consider the ngineering.com MARS Simulator, I use them, they're pretty cool.

RR Lighting Effects at ngineering.com

Here's a Video of the MARS Light.


----------



## lou1985

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Well, I have a module that detects when the motor is getting power, that would be a pretty positive way to know it's stopped. If you want the cool MARS flashing, consider the ngineering.com MARS Simulator, I use them, they're pretty cool.
> 
> RR Lighting Effects at ngineering.com
> 
> Here's a Video of the MARS Light.


Could that MARS light simulator be run off a PS2 3V or PS3 steam conversion kit with 7 other 3mm LEDs without overwhelming the circuit? It seems like it would work.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Eight LED's are 160ma, that's well within the capability of the individual lighting circuits on the PS2 or PS32 board outputs. You will have to add some filtering for the MARS simulator as it requires pure DC. I used a 100 ohm resistor, and 100uf 35V capacitor, and a TO-92 package 8V regulator to power one from the light output, still working.


----------



## lou1985

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Eight LED's are 160ma, that's well within the capability of the individual lighting circuits on the PS2 or PS32 board outputs. You will have to add some filtering for the MARS simulator as it requires pure DC. I used a 100 ohm resistor, and 100uf 35V capacitor, and a TO-92 package 8V regulator to power one from the light output, still working.


Cool. Thanks. I though the PS2/PS32 board headlamp output was pure DC, 6 volts DC to be exact?


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Nope, it's PWM voltage, the peak is around 20 volts. The duty cycle is around 25-30%, so it powers a 6V bulb about right. However, powering a microprocessor on that is a whole other matter, hence you need the filter and regulator.


----------



## lou1985

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Nope, it's PWM voltage, the peak is around 20 volts. The duty cycle is around 25-30%, so it powers a 6V bulb about right. However, powering a microprocessor on that is a whole other matter, hence you need the filter and regulator.


Ah. I've been powering 3mm LEDs from the circuit using just a 560 ohm resistor on the power side without issue, so I thought it was straight 6V DC. More expensive than your solution but would ngineering's 8101 power source work as well? https://www.ngineering.com/accessories.htm#N8101


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Well, powering LED's is no sweat on a PWM signal, it's just light. Truthfully, running LED's off the PS/2 bulb outputs calls for a 220 ohm or greater size resistor, so you're quite safe with the 560 ohm.

Yes, they have a power module as well, but I actually use my own power module for this task. I already have these, and they're cheap for me to build.


----------



## lou1985

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Well, powering LED's is no sweat on a PWM signal, it's just light. Truthfully, running LED's off the PS/2 bulb outputs calls for a 220 ohm or greater size resistor, so you're quite safe with the 560 ohm.
> 
> Yes, they have a power module as well, but I actually use my own power module for this task. I already have these, and they're cheap for me to build.
> 
> View attachment 516190


I don't have spare parts lying around to build one, so if I ordered stuff I figured I might as well pick up their power module. Do you sell your module John? Looks easier to use than the ngineering one, since it's larger in size.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I actually don't routinely sell them. Since I hand build them, I really can't justify the price I'd have to charge for it to make sense to sell them. I actually have a bunch of boards I just build for my use and not for sale.


----------



## lou1985

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I actually don't routinely sell them. Since I hand build them, I really can't justify the price I'd have to charge for it to make sense to sell them. I actually have a bunch of boards I just build for my use and not for sale.


I'd have to order all the parts to make one, so it's probably best for me to just buy a completed one. I'm only going to need one, so no sense to have extra parts around. That ngineering power source 8101 I linked to should work fine to power their MARS light simulator from the PS2/PS3 headlamp output though correct?


----------



## Millstonemike

lou1985 said:


> I'd have to order all the parts to make one, so it's probably best for me to just buy a completed one. I'm only going to need one, so no sense to have extra parts around. That ngineering power source 8101 I linked to should work fine to power their MARS light simulator from the PS2/PS3 headlamp output though correct?


You can get some on eBay, cheap but you have to wait for the "slow boat from China" to get them 3+ weeks.

Dimension:43*20*14mm(L*W*H), *Link* to pictured offer.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

That module is huge Mike! You really don't want to try to stuff something like that into most steam boilers. That's way overkill for the job!


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Well... it's specifications are marginal, the peak voltage from the lighting circuits for DCS can easily exceed 20 volts. I think I'd just cobble together a few components on a proto board and make something like this.


----------



## lou1985

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Well... it's specifications are marginal, the peak voltage from the lighting circuits for DCS can easily exceed 20 volts. I think I'd just cobble together a few components on a proto board and make something like this.
> 
> View attachment 516258



Well nuts. Looks like I'll have to make it then.


----------



## Millstonemike

gunrunnerjohn said:


> That module is huge Mike! You really don't want to try to stuff something like that into most steam boilers. That's way overkill for the job!


That's why I included the dimensions. There are much smaller ones (~3/4" square). You would need to add a cap for those to holdover voltage from the PWM input.


What about your LED regulator for passenger cars. Isn't that sold commercially at Hennings? Not sure of its size but it looked pretty small last time you posted a pic.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

The LED regulator is a constant current design, so it's actually not suitable for this use. It's small enough, just not the right design.


----------



## Millstonemike

*This One?*. Likely need to add a capacitor to holdover voltage from the PWM feed. But that can be wired and placed anywhere.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Yep, for this application, probably a 100uf 35V cap would be plenty. FWIW, I have a bunch of these in my parts box that I bought for an application. I could probably ship one in an envelope for a couple of bucks.


----------



## lou1985

Millstonemike said:


> *This One?*. Likely need to add a capacitor to holdover voltage from the PWM feed. But that can be wired and placed anywhere.
> 
> View attachment 516376


That might work. Peak voltage out of the PS2/PS3 headlamp circuit can't exceed 22v, or at least track voltage. Cap across the leads and it should be good. Only real pain is adjusting the output voltage.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

lou1985 said:


> That might work. Peak voltage out of the PS2/PS3 headlamp circuit can't exceed 22v, or at least track voltage.


You assume facts not in evidence. Remember that the PV is unregulated voltage based on track power. Depending on the load on PV, it could conceivably be 1.4 times the RMS value of track power, it's charging a capacitor through a bridge rectifier.


----------



## lou1985

I forgot to note that under load trains on my layout don't see more than 16 volts at the track (power is from a Postwar ZW running 2 main lines). So worst case 16v x 1.4 = 22.4. That's where I got 22v. I need to remember to explain where I'm getting stuff...

Problem is if I take the equipment to another layout with higher track voltage. Then obviously the voltage peak out of the headlamp circuit would be higher. Straight up 6v out of the headlamp circuit from the factory would have made this all easier, but where's the fun in that?


----------



## Millstonemike

The LM2596 chip on that buck regulator is good up to 45 V DC (~32 V AC rms). I believe the regulator's stated voltage limitation is a function of the SMT caps on the input. If you replace those with 35 V caps for the PWM holdover, I think your good for most any model train voltage. There may be an issue with the inductor saturating but I suspect that would not happen unless your using it's full 3 A output current capability at the highest voltages.

I ordered a couple. I'll be putting them through some stress tests once received (3+ weeks from China).


----------



## Norton

Millstonemike said:


> The LM2596 chip on that buck regulator is good up to 45 V DC (~32 V AC rms). I believe the regulator's stated voltage limitation is a function of the SMT caps on the input. If you replace those with 35 V caps for the PWM holdover, I think your good for most any model train voltage. There may be an issue with the inductor saturating but I suspect that would not happen unless your using it's full 3 A output current capability at the highest voltages.
> 
> I ordered a couple. I'll be putting them through some stress tests once received (3+ weeks from China).


80 Cents/ea including shipping at Amazon. Should have them Sunday.

https://www.amazon.com/10PCS-DC-DC-...2307+Chip&qid=1575047014&s=electronics&sr=1-3

Pete


----------



## Millstonemike

Norton said:


> 80 Cents/ea including shipping at Amazon. Should have them Sunday.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/10PCS-DC-DC-...2307+Chip&qid=1575047014&s=electronics&sr=1-3
> 
> Pete


I don't have Prime so it would have been ~$15 for 10 from Amazon. I paid $3.33 for 5 and will have to wait.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Millstonemike said:


> The LM2596 chip on that buck regulator is good up to 45 V DC (~32 V AC rms). I believe the regulator's stated voltage limitation is a function of the SMT caps on the input. If you replace those with 35 V caps for the PWM holdover, I think your good for most any model train voltage. There may be an issue with the inductor saturating but I suspect that would not happen unless your using it's full 3 A output current capability at the highest voltages.


Truthfully, those aren't good for anything close to 3 amps, or even one amp. While that's the rating of the switching IC, they don't get even close to that capability. I have a bunch of them in my parts box, I bought them before I realized that the maximum voltage was an issue where I wanted to use them. I went with a slightly larger board that has a higher voltage rating, I build track powered modules using them as the main component. In some fairly extended testing, I only get a few hundred milliamps out of this board with 300uf of filtering. If I up it to 680, I was able to get around 600ma. You need a lot of capacitor to filter amps of rectified power sufficiently for a DC-DC switcher.

This is my completed supply, the board you see is the support board that has the bridge rectifier, DCS choke, and filter caps.









This is the board sandwiched below that is the switching regulator board.









I have also laid out, but not built, one with additional capacitance for higher output currents. This is the 680uf model I spoke of. I've tested that value on the bench. Obviously, this is only the top board, as this is the 3D representation from the PCB layout package.









In truth, the higher voltages in, the less current in, as this is a switching power supply. That being the case, the worst case scenario for these supplies is having the input voltage only slightly higher than the output voltage, that's when you'd need maximum filtering.


----------



## Millstonemike

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Truthfully, those aren't good for anything close to 3 amps, or even one amp. While that's the rating of the switching IC, they don't get even close to that capability.


Yep, not with a PWM as the input, or AC. I plan on adding the bridge and the filtering caps on the existing module. The bridge will extend past the PCB. I'll remove the input cap, epoxy the bridge to the PCB and solder the + - bridge outputs in place of the cap. Then I'll add a thru-hole axial cap across the outboard holes.

What I'm finding is a 35 V axial cap in the 220uf range is approximately as long as the PCB is wide and much fatter than it is high. 100 uf fits better. It may look ugly but it will retain most of the original size of the PCB with some added height (like 4 mm goes to 10 mm). Since I'll use this for powering LEDs, the amount of filtering may not be an issue. If it is, I'll add a larger cap off board.


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## lou1985

Jebus all this to run a MARS light simulator off a PS2/PS3 headlamp circuit 😐.

John do you have a parts list for that module, so we could build one? I know you don't sell them but those of us who can solder (or think we can 😉 ) can probably put it together.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Lou, here's a post with construction details: Build a Track Powered Adjustable DC Power Supply


----------



## lou1985

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Lou, here's a post with construction details: Build a Track Powered Adjustable DC Power Supply



Awesome. Thanks John!


----------



## Dave Connolly

Got a little more done on my baggage car. Car body is pretty much complete. The roof came out okay as far as rounding the ends. The wood was full of imperfections. Rather than deal with them. I went to my local CVS and picked up some paper tape. It’s used for securing bandages. Comes in 2 widths. Used the wider roll for the roofs top and the narrower one for the lower portion. The prototype was covered with canvas and then tarred over to seal it. I tried to accomplish this with the tape and Scalecoat Grimy Black. One of my building kits years ago came with a roll of this tape to simulate tar paper. My plan was to paint the cars doors and then add the window glazing. Then glue the roof to the sides and ends. Leaving no access to the inside. By dumb luck. I think I can secure the roof with a few Velcro strips. The spacing between the strengthening blocks I added and the roof seems a perfect match for the strips.

Next up will be to paint the car itself coach green. I’m leaving the chassis details as far as brake gear, truss rods and steps till the end. To much handling still of the car to put glued on details just yet.


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## gunrunnerjohn

That's impressive Dave, can't wait to see the completed project!


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## Norton

Looking good Dave. I have used that Micropore tape for doing tar paper roofs as well.
Regarding flashing mars lights on emergency braking, I just watched a couple of Eric's Trains videos. One on the MTH FEF and the other on the Lionel Legacy version. The MTH engine only goes solid red in reverse. The Lionel goes flashing red on emergency braking while moving. Crew talk mentions emergency. Not sure how its activated whether just the brake button or a special soft key. The video does not show the engine in reverse so no idea if the light goes to solid red. I thought the Lionel engine excelled in detail and features. But you pay for that. $$$$$$$


Pete


----------



## lou1985

I bought another project from my secret source. MTH Premier Santa Fe 3460 class Hudson 3464. It's never been run but is missing all the electronics and smoke unit. It just has the 9434 Pittman motor and drivetrain in the shell. It's a combination of 3464's shell and front truck with 3463's drive wheels and rear truck, which don't have white wall tires. No matter as I'll be removing the white walls from the front truck. This is going to be a Frankenstein project with the tender shell being from a Lionel 3751 class Northern (the final rebuild 3751 class Northerns used the same 20k gallon water capacity tender as the 3460 class Hudsons) and the chassis, trucks, and toolboxes coming from a MTH Premier Blue Goose Hudson (the Blue Goose was a streamlined 3460 class Hudson). Everything will be PS3 controlled when it's done. I'll be taking pictures as I go through the project and I'll post all the pictures when it's done. Should be a fun project after the holidays. This is my 3rd Premier Santa Fe 3460 class Hudson. I already have 3463 and 3460 (The Blue Goose). Needless to say I like this model.


----------



## superwarp1

Swapping a intermittent EOB mother board in a 3rdrail engine with hopefully a good EOB. Installing Superchuffer in another brass engine, fixing a out of quarter driver and intermittent power pickup. Hope to have both projects done this weekend so I can just run trains for Christmas.


----------



## Norton

My Weaver Hiawatha project nearing completion.























Many, many mods, some planned, most not planned.

LED Class lights with driver board modified, same with tender markers. Mabuchi 550 replaced with a Pittman 9433 and John's chuff generator for 4 chuffs. Seuthe smoke generator retained as it would have meant major reconstruction of the shell and loss of the lead weight. The engine is already pretty light. Replaced the rock hard traction tires.
Tender got a Cruise M, added pickup roller, and as Weaver had used the shell as an antenna it had to be insulated from the frame. Many shorts were killing the TMCC signal. Coupler repaired as it would not open and being an uncommon mounting style could not be easily swapped out. The final fix was cutting off one turn on the plunger spring. Most of the screw holes had to be tapped out as the threads were not deep enough. Lionel RS5 board replaced the generic RS4 board. Added bonus as Lionel still had some boards for their Hiawatha Atlantic also cab number 3 as this one is.
Sorry for the fuzzy pic as it was cut from a video.

Pete


----------



## Krieglok

Great work, Pete. Those Milwaukee Road stream liners are really sharp looking.

Sounds like a really involved project with amazing results...

Tom


----------



## Norton

It was quite the learning experience Tom. It was my first Weaver brass engine with Lionel TMCC. The other being a 0-6-0 with conventional. They had some interesting ways of doing things I had not seen done by other makers like using micro miniature incandescent bulbs for markers. Ok by me except the tender markers were white (clear) which I doubt ever happened. The other being the use of the big rectifier on the motor driver to provide DC for the markers.
Lastly I had no idea the Mabuchi 550s and 555s have a stall current of over 11 amps!!! Running light the engine was drawing over two amps. Now with the Pittman it draws .7 amps pulling a couple of incandescent lighted passenger cars. I will be swapping out all my big Mabuchi powered engines with Pittmans now.

Pete


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## gunrunnerjohn

That looks great Pete, where do you get all the Pittman motors?


----------



## Norton

John, There is a guy on ebay selling them for peanuts.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-5-P...966076?hash=item1efeaffffc:g:tksAAOSwbWhdN3ye

These are plain bearing types. He had ball bearing types in the past but believe those are sold out.

He is open to much lower offers too.
If I am not mistaken Lionel has used these in their Odyssey J3 Hudsons and Niagara and its what I used in my Commodore Vanderbilt project. 13 18" passenger cars are no problem.

Edit, the Lionel Hudson and Niagara use a larger 9434. Still the 9433 is no slouch. 
Pete


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## gunrunnerjohn

WOW, good price. I bought a lot of them, I have had to replace several motors in Williams steamers, having a better motor for them would be super.

I doubt I need ball bearings, though it would be nice.


----------



## lou1985

Norton said:


> My Weaver Hiawatha project nearing completion.
> 
> View attachment 518626
> 
> View attachment 518628
> 
> View attachment 518630
> 
> 
> Many, many mods, some planned, most not planned.
> 
> LED Class lights with driver board modified, same with tender markers. Mabuchi 550 replaced with a Pittman 9433 and John's chuff generator for 4 chuffs. Seuthe smoke generator retained as it would have meant major reconstruction of the shell and loss of the lead weight. The engine is already pretty light. Replaced the rock hard traction tires.
> Tender got a Cruise M, added pickup roller, and as Weaver had used the shell as an antenna it had to be insulated from the frame. Many shorts were killing the TMCC signal. Coupler repaired as it would not open and being an uncommon mounting style could not be easily swapped out. The final fix was cutting off one turn on the plunger spring. Most of the screw holes had to be tapped out as the threads were not deep enough. Lionel RS5 board replaced the generic RS4 board. Added bonus as Lionel still had some boards for their Hiawatha Atlantic also cab number 3 as this one is.
> Sorry for the fuzzy pic as it was cut from a video.
> 
> Pete


Looks awesome. Did you have to modify the motor mount to fit the 9433 Pittman?


----------



## lou1985

I plan on removing the white walls on the lead truck on 3464 but I'm not sure if I should ditch the white stripe on 3464 or not. I think the more business like look of 3463 sans the white stripe (parked next to 3464) looks better, but I can't decide for sure.

3464 is missing the stack extension and mechanism. I emailed Midge at MTH to see if she can locate one. If she can not find the parts for the stack extension I plan on buying the one from a Lionel 3751 class Northern and modifying them to fit. I'd rather use the MTH parts as the stack extension can be put up or down. Using the Lionel parts it will always be in the up position.


----------



## Norton

lou1985 said:


> Looks awesome. Did you have to modify the motor mount to fit the 9433 Pittman?


Thank you. I only had to oval the existing holes slightly. I have some Pittman mounts but didn't have to use them. I had a 9434 in there at first but the added length was hitting the top of the shell. The 9433 barely fits. For those not familiar with Pittmans a 9433 is 56mm long and a 9434 is 61mm long. Both are the same diameter. Lionel and MTH uses them both.

Pete


----------



## lou1985

Got the lighting figured out on the Santa Fe Hudson. Warm white LEDs except for the number board lights. Those are 6v grain of wheat bulbs. I'll power everything from the PS3 steam upgrade kit headlamp circuit. 5 LEDs and 2 incandescent bulbs are well within the rating of that circuit.


----------



## lou1985

Touched up the running board paint on the Hudson and removed the white walls from the front wheels. Looks much better. I was thinking about removing the white on the running boards but kept it, to differentiate 3464 from 3463, which is all black.

I also removed the lettering from the Lionel 3751 20K gallon tender. Some lacquer thinner on a rag and it came right off without damaging the base paint. Next thing is fitting the MTH Blue Goose chassis to the Lionel tender shell.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Well, I'm ripping out the old TAS stuff that was in the FEF I recently bought and installing PS/3. I'm also going to customize the lighting so it has a real operating MARS light, Rule-17 headlight, automatic cab light control, and a custom flickering firebox. I figured that was a nice enough locomotive to deserve some upgrades.


----------



## Dave Connolly

Pretty much finished. This was a good start in learning how to build a Labelle kit. Scratchbuilt the sides to more represent the prototype. While the initial cost is fairly inexpensive. Once you start buying trucks, detail items, decals and a few modeling supplies. The cost does get up there. I have a few new tools and some experience to tackle a future combine and RPO. 
After much debate in how to attach the roof. 2 screws seemed to work the best in case I ever have to get inside it. A few pieces of painted tape will be added to represent the canvas roof. They will hide the screws.


----------



## Krieglok

Nice work. Fun to watch it progress to completion. The paint work and weathering is really well done. 

Tom


----------



## Volphin

That weathering is outstanding! It's hard to get a realistic look, but you nailed it!


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## Millstonemike

Seems like a real life photo ...


----------



## Dave Connolly

Guy’s thank you for the compliments. Next up on the workbench is a brass Milk Car I picked up. These are really a crap shoot as to how well they will navigate a 3 rail layout. This one seemed fine at first. It de railed in one spot twice. The straight portion of a Ross #8. No idea why it picked out this spot. When this happens. I usually try to swap out the trucks. I already run Kadee’s on everything. Weavers trucks ride the lowest. I still wanted to retain the stock mounting screw. I’ve done this with a few other cars. By filing down the Atlas truck pivot mount and making a new cross piece out of brass stock. You can retain the stock mounting screw and get the car close to the right height. The Bettendorf truck is about as close as I’m going to get. The factory truck is really nice. Even the journal boxes are sprung. The car still rides at a nice height. The end buffers are just slightly higher than Lionel’s.
Trying to assemble a prototypical Rutland milk train. This style car was shown in a consist in 1945. I have to just add the right car number. Was probably fresh out of the shop. With the war pretty much over. I guess steel was then available. My cars are all of the wood style. So the all steel gives the consist a different look. The Rutlands milk trains basically consisted of all Bordens, Sheffield Farms, their own and sometimes a NYC.


----------



## MichaelE

My A.C.M.E. Br.120 Deutsche Bahn locomotive is receiving a new set of pans in a few days.

The original set of pans have been damaged inadvertently by running into the cat wire support arms in reverse. I had forgotten to push down on the pan before reversing under the finished section while shunting cars or parking the train. Not the first time it has happened, and it's time to replace them.

Going forwards, the cat wire is slightly higher when it intercepts the cat wire at the tunnel exit, but not when transitioning backwards from the unfinished section where there is no starting transition for the wire.

The other pan was damaged by my arm getting in the way over the top of the moving train reaching for something or other. That pan is in a permanently parked position and is glued down. It was extensively damaged because the train was at speed when it occurred.

These are made by Sommerfeldt and are probably the same pans that A.C.M.E. originally used on the locomotive, and they are common to most modern DB locomotives.

$18 and change for the pair.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I just finished my MTH Premier FEF upgrade. I got it with an old TAS TMCC "upgrade", and I decided to spruce it up. Since I had a couple of spare PS2 3V boards, I used one of those.

First off, all the markers and class lights were non-functional. As it turns out, the guy "upgrading" it probably thought they were regular bulbs, they were all toasted! So, those were all added back in.

Next, I got the MARS light working with the www.ngineering.com MARS simulator board. I added my locomotive motion detection board to switch the MARS light on only when moving. The same board allowed me to have automatic cab light control and Rule-17 headlight operation. All the lighting with the exception of the cab light is LED.

I spruced up the cab with my flickering firebox module, really looks sharp now. It has three different colors of flickering LED's in a square pattern, really gives a great effect in the firebox.

Obviously, I beat the smoke unit into submission, increased the airflow and gave it a new wick, I'm still choking from the test run!


----------



## Krieglok

Nice work. It looks pretty complicated to us electronically challenged people... 

Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Define complicated. I did the normal PS/2 upgrade (with a couple of twists), and then added this circuitry.


----------



## Krieglok

Complicated: any schematic with more than two lines... 

Tom


----------



## lou1985

Looks good John. Have a video of the firebox flicker?


----------



## Norton

I just use LEDs that have the flickering circuit built in to each one. Using an array of red and orange ones you only need a resistor and source of DC. That can include the smoke unit, motor driver, or radio board. In this aplication I just made my own using a LM78L05. I have a video but no way to post it here.
There are couple of videos on this page. While not looking into the firebox you can see the reflection off the tender.

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/topic/pittman-motor-mod-in-pullmor-hudson-stage-1?page=2

Many sources for these LEDs on eBay for small money. Just one example, I didn't look for best price.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/50Pcs-3mm-...hash=item4b17760015:m:m00ODyT9mgJWkYnCevBOayg

Pete


----------



## MichaelE

Nice work John. That front shot of X844 is a keeper.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Lou, it's really hard to get a decent video of the flicker effect. Suffice to say, the multiple LED's and colors makes a great looking flame effect.


Norton said:


> I just use LEDs that have the flickering circuit built in to each one. Using an array of red and orange ones you only need a resistor and source of DC. That can include the smoke unit, motor driver, or radio board. In this aplication I just made my own using a LM78L05. I have a video but no way to post it here.
> There are couple of videos on this page. While not looking into the firebox you can see the reflection off the tender.


Pete, I post videos by putting them on YouTube and linking to them here.

You can see from the diagram that I use the same flickering LED's. My modules usually get one red, one orange, and two yellow flickering LED's. Given their characteristics, I give each LED it's own dropping resistor, they vary their current draw, so you can't parallel them effectively. When I had them all in parallel with one resistor, they didn't work nearly as well, so I just went with separate SMT resistors on the back of the module. I grind the tops off the LED's to diffuse the light, and I also space the module around 1/8" to 3/16" from the firebox red filter, that helps with the effect as well.

I have the DC powered board you see above, and also one that's powered from track voltage with a bridge, cap, and voltage regulator.


----------



## Norton

I am aware of the youtube option.
As for the LEDs I essentially did the same giving each LED its own dropping resistor and making a separate power supply. I suggested a simpler way for the young man to try experimenting. Given most engines use a single LED for firebox glow it could be as simple as replacing the non flickering LED with a flickering one for pennies.

Pete


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Very true Pete, a single flickering LED is a vast improvement over a static bulb.


----------



## lou1985

All my stuff is oil fired (ATSF and SP power) so they just have a small opening in the cab back head that has one LED or Bulb behind it. I have a bunch of flickering red LEDs so I may try putting one behind the firebox to see how it works out on my ATSF 3464 Hudson project. You can see the little peep/sand hole in the attached image. I can replace the current solid LED with a flickering red one. I'm just curious how the effect looked but I can kinda see it with the reflection in Pete's videos. Because of the small hole I can only fit one LED so I'm hoping it has a decent effect.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

You might be surprised, most of the windows I see fit at least two LED's, and with the MTH FEF I just upgraded, all four LED's show up in the door opening.


----------



## lou1985

gunrunnerjohn said:


> You might be surprised, most of the windows I see fit at least two LED's, and with the MTH FEF I just upgraded, all four LED's show up in the door opening.



The opening in the ATSF Hudson is the size of a single 3mm LED, that's why I figure only one LED is going to fit well. Not nearly as big an opening as on the FEF you have.


----------



## Norton

Normally you don't put them in the hole(s), just behind them. You might have room to parallel a couple, soldering one to the other and only use one stuck in the socket. Easy to try anyways.
There are four LEDs in there.









Pete


----------



## lou1985

Norton said:


> Normally you don't put them in the hole(s), just behind them. You might have room to parallel a couple, soldering one to the other and only use one stuck in the socket. Easy to try anyways.
> There are four LEDs in there.
> 
> View attachment 519526
> 
> 
> Pete


The firebox LED is currently behind the firebox hole on the ATSF Hudson, not poking through. It's a standard 3mm LED I put in place of the 6V bulb MTH used in that position. I have some 3mm flickering red LEDs I may try in the same spot. It's a bit tight in the area. I know one 3mm LED fits but I'll have to see if I can squeeze a 2nd in there.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

There's always the drill and file.


----------



## lou1985

Mated the Lionel ATSF 20k gallon tender shell with the MTH Blue Goose 20k gallon tender chassis. MTH shell had the mounting posts in a different spot than the Lionel shell, so I oblonged the holes in the MTH chassis and made some D shaped washers to hold the chassis to the shell. I have to paint the trucks and toolboxes black then decal and coat the tender shell. Then it's cosmetically done.


----------



## lou1985

"Blue Goose" tender trucks and toolboxes painted black. Just waiting on decals and the tender will be cosmetically done.


----------



## lou1985

The Santa Fe Hudson came without the stack extension and mechanism. After some back and forth with MTH they were able to find the stack extension and mechanism, but they only had one. It is the same color as the stack base and smokebox door used on 3461, 3462, 3463, and 3465. For some reason MTH used a different color paint for the smokebox and stack on 3464. Mechanically it first perfect. It's not a perfect color match but it's fine. Probably more prototypical that way.


----------



## 86TA355SR

*I'm back... after logging out in July...*

I took a break from MTF. 

Glad to see some new members. 

This is a Weaver FEF I've been working on, heavily modified into an FEF-1.

A lot of scratch built parts, including the entire Seller's Feed Water Heater along the fireman's side of the locomotive. The locomotive's pilot is all built from brass and soldered together.

The tender is scratch built out of brass, PSC Buckeye trucks. I punched every rivet by hand. 

Paint starts in the next few days.


----------



## Krieglok

Nice work. Can’t wait to see it finished!

Tom


----------



## Millstonemike

Wow. Very intricate work.


----------



## Norton

Looking good on the FEF. Do you have decals yet? My FEF project has hit a snag. I don't have a complete set of decals in white or silver that are suitable. Champs are too thick to settle over the rivets despite using half a bottle of Micro Sol. My Microscales are for a Grayhound. Microscale's white would be perfect but long gone. Few decal makers want to make them due to Licensing requirements. 

Pete


----------



## 86TA355SR

Norton said:


> .... Do you have decals yet? ...Microscale's white would be perfect but long gone...
> 
> Pete


Pete,

Only the Microscale set I purchased years ago for this project. Had I known how hard they'd be to locate in the future, I would've bought several sheets.

For the next UP project, I'll be printing my own.


----------



## Norton

If you keep this in the Grayhound colors, decals are still out there. I just bought a bunch of transfers to hopefully finish this project up.

Pete


----------



## Millstonemike

86TA355SR said:


> ....
> For the next UP project, I'll be printing my own.


I'd be interested in your technique & product choices for home grown decals.

On the web, there's a bazillion recommendations for making decals. So it's hard to sort out a good, yet reasonable process and corresponding results.

Perhaps start a new thread when you get to it.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Forgot to mention, the FEF-1 will be an as 'delivered' version, black and coal tender. Thus, I'll be using the white/silver decals on this model.

No version of the FEF-1 has been made in 3R. Shortly after beginning this project, I bought the OMI 2R version. I lost interest in the 3R project for a long time and decided to finish it recently.


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Pete,
> 
> Only the Microscale set I purchased years ago for this project. Had I known how hard they'd be to locate in the future, I would've bought several sheets.
> 
> For the next UP project, I'll be printing my own.


Let us know what process you use. I'm having someone make cut vinyl decals for my ATSF Hudson project, so that'll be a new one for me.


----------



## Millstonemike

lou1985 said:


> Let us know what process you use. I'm having someone make cut vinyl decals for my ATSF Hudson project, so that'll be a new one for me.


I've used the cut vinyl on a more toy like train, a Marx Tender. Easy to apply and it's help up for more than a year. But it does have more depth than a standard decal. I was pleased for this application.

Only the words "Red Rocket Rail Road" are vinyl. The rest of the silver is auto pin striping.

Sorry for the poor pic, it's screen grab from a video.


----------



## Norton

Finally found some decent UP decals. Its still just a shell. Next up, install the electronics and some detailing work.









Pete


----------



## WITZ 41

Currently working on a dozen or so Vintage Atlas O 6222's CNW 40' Stock Car #4992. These old Atlas, I think, are the best steals in O gauge. Plastic, yes, but Austrian made, excellent detail, even the plastic trucks work well on 3-rail. I pick them up for $5-$15 bucks a piece. A little nail polish remover on a Q-tip rubs off the side boards. I re-decal with sets from Tichy Train Group, quick blast of Testors Dull-Coat, add Kadee couplers, put cheaply acquired 2R wheel-sets right into the existing trucks, and Presto-Change-O I've got a nice long consist of uniquely numbered, inexpensive cattle cars!! I might still add some small weight, along with some miniature livestock. I plan to do the same with a few Union Pacific versions too,

Here's a before and after along with some side-by-sides on one of the cars I just need to add the wheels to.


----------



## Spence

Witz; very nice. :thumbsup:


----------



## lou1985

Had some time this evening and wired up the ATSF Hudson. I'll hopefully have time to stick the PS3 boards and wiring the tender over the weekend, then test.


----------



## lou1985

Sans tender decals (still waiting on those) the Santa Fe FrankenHudson lives. It consists of the boiler from a MTH Premier Santa Fe Hudson #3464, the chassis and running gear of MTH Premier Santa Fe Hudson #3463, tender chassis, trucks, and toolboxes from a MTH Premier Santa Fe Blue Goose Hudson, and the tender shell from a Lionel 3751 class Santa Fe Northern. PS3 steam kit and LED lights.


----------



## Krieglok

All great looking stuff everyone! Keep up the great work. I hope I have something to show very soon!

Tom


----------



## Don F

I made some coal loads for an MTH gondola, and a Lionel mill gondola. These are for a friend in Sunbury Pa. He's a member of an O gauge club in Lewisburg.


----------



## Millstonemike

Don F said:


> I made some coal loads for an MTH gondola, and a Lionel mill gondola. These are for a friend in Sunbury Pa. He's a member of an O gauge club in Lewisburg.


They look great. Technique? Products?


----------



## Millstonemike

Krieglok said:


> ... I hope I have something to show very soon!
> 
> Tom


You've already treated us with a magnificent thread!


----------



## Don F

Millstonemike said:


> They look great. Technique? Products?


Millstonemike,
Thank you.
The material is Black Beauty sand blast grit. It comes in a few different sizes. I use the fine, as it closely represents "Chestnut" sized coal, the most common size used in many homes. In the General Model Train Discussion heading, under the topic Need all of your threads on HOW-TOs, etc, on page 11 post #107 is an explanation and video of how I make these and other loads.


----------



## Riggzie

nothing great but ordering this stuff up tonight..

Lionel 2065
2046-22 - front truck assembly - $7.50
2046-28 - Truck Pivot Screw - $.75
75-300 - lamp still need

Lionel 1666
259E-1 - e untit drum red - $4

Lionel 624
363-300 - 14 volt bulb bayo base clear $.50

Lionel 2020
752-9 - 18 volt bulb use 1447-300
671-238 - Side Rod Screw - $.75
671-239 - Spacer - $1.50

022 switcher switches - hope these are the bulbs...
432-301 - red bulb - / $.75
432-302 - green bulb - / $.75


----------



## Don F

A friend has some inter mountain hoppers, and asked me about making some ash loads. He has an ash pit on his layout, and wants to add the hoppers. My son burns rice coal, so I grabbed a container of ashes from his pike yesterday. Now I have to take a walk behind the house, and get a container from a mine fire from decades ago. A lot of ash from steam engines tend to be a pinkish orange color, so my friend suggested that I mix the two. I will add a small amount of Black Beauty to represent un burned coal. I'll post some pics as the project progresses.


----------



## Pingman

Don F, THANK YOU for the reference to your detailed post and video on "HOW TO" make the coal loads you showed here. Simply a terrific tutorial with text, photos, and video of your clearly effective process.

Your process would be a great help to folks running coal drags at their large, club lay-outs; traveling lay-outs and the like.

You also led me to a forum on MTF that I'd not seen before but will visit regularly now.


----------



## Riggzie

Pingman said:


> Don F, THANK YOU for the reference to your detailed post and video on "HOW TO" make the coal loads you showed here. Simply a terrific tutorial with text, photos, and video of your clearly effective process.
> 
> Your process would be a great help to folks running coal drags at their large, club lay-outs; traveling lay-outs and the like.
> 
> You also led me to a forum on MTF that I'd not seen before but will visit regularly now.


whats the link?!?!?!?!?!


----------



## Millstonemike

Riggzie said:


> whats the link?!?!?!?!?!


*This* will get you close (post #107).


----------



## Don F

Pingman said:


> Don F, THANK YOU for the reference to your detailed post and video on "HOW TO" make the coal loads you showed here. Simply a terrific tutorial with text, photos, and video of your clearly effective process.
> 
> Your process would be a great help to folks running coal drags at their large, club lay-outs; traveling lay-outs and the like.
> 
> You also led me to a forum on MTF that I'd not seen before but will visit regularly now.


Pingman, you're quite welcome, and I glad you found the information useful. I developed the method around 2010, when a forum group I belonged to was planning a Weaver 2 bay hopper as our selection for an annual club car program we had since 2006. Weaver had lost its source for custom made coal loads, so I began experimenting with various materials. After several failed attempts, I came up with the current materials and process.


----------



## Don F

Riggzie said:


> whats the link?!?!?!?!?!


I don't know how to provide a link to the post, so this is the easiest way to direct you there.
In the General Model Train Discussion heading, under the topic Need all of your threads on HOW-TOs, etc, on page 11 post #107 is an explanation and video of how I make these and other loads.


----------



## beachhead2

Here is Post #107

and here is the beginning of the thread


----------



## Norton

Finally finished my FEF project. This what I started with.









Today.









Besides the obvious missing parts it needed a motor and electronics. PS3 in this case.

Pete


----------



## beachhead2

Wow, man. Nice work! :appl:


----------



## Pingman

Wow, Pete!!!

How'd you do it? Where do the donor parts come from?

I wouldn't undertake this type project, but I'm glad you did and I hope you'll tell us more about the particulars.


----------



## Norton

Carl, it was the result of a group effort. Most of the MTH parts incuding shell above came from OGR member Harmonyards. I got a few more from Lionel and fabricated a bunch of smaller parts and special fasteners myself. Shells were stripped using aircraft stripper and repainted by myself. UP Decals have become hard to find because of UP licensing requirements but I found a source on eBay.
PS2-3 experts GRJ and GGG helped with advice on the hardware and software install. 
As I have been doing with my upgrades, cab curtains and a cab deck plate were added and the tether straightened.









Pete


----------



## Magic

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Looks great, very nice workmanship.

Magic


----------



## Enon49

*Tin Village*

Today I am working on my "Tin Village"

Need to come up with a material to place between shelf and table top - Lower Left Corner of Photo

Enon


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Norton said:


> Finally finished my FEF project.


A very impressive transformation from a pile of parts to a beauty like that! :thumbsup:


----------



## Norton

Thanks guys. Building models is really the hobby for me, not so much running trains. Not sure I will try a project this ambitious again unless I get all my ducks in a row before hand. It would have been easier if this was a Lionel engine as ordering parts is so much easier and then I was held up for months trying to find decent decals. Microscale getting out of O scale was big loss. If Precision Scale ever closes its doors I might have find a different hobby.

Pete


----------



## lou1985

Norton said:


> Finally finished my FEF project. This what I started with.
> 
> View attachment 528770
> 
> 
> Today.
> 
> View attachment 528772
> 
> 
> Besides the obvious missing parts it needed a motor and electronics. PS3 in this case.
> 
> Pete


Wow that looks great! Nice job.


----------



## lou1985

Well with my ATSF Hudson done sans decals I'm turning my attention to my other project. It's a Premier WP GS64 that I got from the same guy I picked up my ATSF Hudson from (same guy Pete got his FEF from). I'll be turning it into SP GS6 #4460. It'll get a PS3 steam kit. So far all I've done is repaint the tender and change the number boards on the smoke box.


----------



## Norton

Looking good Lou. I have a ton of SP HO decals but nothing in O scale. Can't help much on this one.
Does this have a mux board and is the engine tether connection in the shell or the frame? The FEF had its connector in the shell but I moved the PS3 harness to the frame and replaced the mux board with my own 6V supply.

Pete


----------



## Millstonemike

Enon, With a color inkjet printer and heavy card stock, you could print brick or stone walls. Maybe even some (weathered) signs on the walls - if you're somewhat adept at Photoshop like apps.

Or you can paste the printouts to 1/4" thick foam board like *These* products.


----------



## Krieglok

Great looking stuff there guys!

Enon, the village looks very festive. Is that a trolley line in the front of the buildings?

Pete, the transformation on the FEF is outstanding. It looks like everything turned out perfect.

Lou, the GS6 looks great in black. I always liked the “skyline” boiler effect. 

Great work! Keep it up!

Tom


----------



## lou1985

Norton said:


> Looking good Lou. I have a ton of SP HO decals but nothing in O scale. Can't help much on this one.
> Does this have a mux board and is the engine tether connection in the shell or the frame? The FEF had its connector in the shell but I moved the PS3 harness to the frame and replaced the mux board with my own 6V supply.
> 
> Pete


It came with no boards or wiring, so I'll end up wiring the whole thing. This one has the tether connector board mount in the shell. I haven decided if I'll keep the PS3 tether connector there or move it to the chassis yet. I'll probably end up moving it to the chassis to make it easier. I haven't looked to see if I'll have to do anything beyond drilling mounting holes for the board screws in the chassis. Did you have to do any grinding on the FEF chassis to mount the tether board? 


Lighting plan is to run everything off the headlamp circuit. I do all LED lighting so it'll be fine. I won't have the ability to turn the markers, cab light, or firebox light off independently from the headlamp but that's fine with me. On my factory PS2 locomotives I run all the lights all the time. I just want the thing to be dark when not addressed by DCS.


ATSF Hudson was easy to wire. PS3 kit pretty much just dropped into the factory locations without issue. Tender is a hodgepodge of a Premier Blue Goose frame and trucks (trucks and toolboxes painted black) and a Lionel 20K gallon ATSF tender shell from a 3751 class Northern. It didn't come with a tender so I made my own


----------



## Norton

I had to mill off the tether connector mounts in the shell, then drill and tap holes in the frame to mount the PS3 connector. MTH designed their kits for PS1 engines where the just drop in. This engine was like doing a non MTH engine.

Pete


----------



## lou1985

Norton said:


> I had to mill off the tether connector mounts in the shell, then drill and tap holes in the frame to mount the PS3 connector. MTH designed their kits for PS1 engines where the just drop in. This engine was like doing a non MTH engine.
> 
> Pete


I've got a PS1 GS4 that was converted by someone else to PS2 3V using the old PS2 upgrade kit. That has the tether connector mounted to the chassis. MTH must have changed the mounting with PS2. I haven't looked closely at how wire routing will go with the GS6. If I mount the tether connector in the shell I'll need to install disconnects for the motor and power/ground wires. It's kind of a situation of which mounting is going to be less of a pain to route wires in the boiler.


The ATSF Hudson was easy. My factory PS2 3V ATSF Hudson has the tether connector mounted the same as the one I converted, with a MUX board for lighting control, so the PS3 kit was basically a drop in affair. The Blue Goose chassis was the same way. Both are models of the same locomotive, one streamlined, one not. I've now got 3 Premier ATSF Hudson's, 2 of which I put back together from parts. I blame Pat for that


----------



## Enon49

Krieglok said:


> Great looking stuff there guys!
> 
> Enon, Is that a trolley line in the front of the buildings?
> 
> Tom


Krieglok - Yes there is a trolley - 66 inches

I have added a photo from - "Way back When"

Thank you 

Enon


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

FWIW, the PS/2 upgrade and PS/3 upgrade are pretty much the same functionality, so I'm not sure why you'd spend the money for the PS/3 upgrade if the PS/2 board is still functional.

FWIW, I have the MTH FEF that I upgraded to TMCC, and it also had the shell mounted connector. There was also an internal connector between the shell and frame, so I retained their tether wiring and just adapted it.


----------



## lou1985

gunrunnerjohn said:


> FWIW, the PS/2 upgrade and PS/3 upgrade are pretty much the same functionality, so I'm not sure why you'd spend the money for the PS/3 upgrade if the PS/2 board is still functional.
> 
> FWIW, I have the MTH FEF that I upgraded to TMCC, and it also had the shell mounted connector. There was also an internal connector between the shell and frame, so I retained their tether wiring and just adapted it.


John both the ATSF Hudson I installed a PS3 steam kit in and the SP GS I'm going to install a PS3 steam kit in came to me with no wiring. No harness, no boards, nothing. Empty boilers and tenders. I had to start from scratch, so I used a PS3 kit. I believe Pete's FEF was the same way.


The guy we got the locomotives from buys stuff that was gutted by MTH for warranty repairs, hence why all the wiring and boards are gone.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Well, starting from scratch is... starting from scratch. That would color the upgrade.  My FEF came without boards with all the wiring was still intact. It had actually been upgraded "badly" to TMCC. I ripped out all of that, and did a proper installation.


----------



## beachhead2

John, can you convert a Sunset 3rd Rail diesel to PS3? Have you ever done it?


----------



## Norton

You can put PS3 into any locomotive that has a DC motor and the room. Unless you have a Plymouth I would think you have the room.

Pete


----------



## beachhead2

Norton said:


> You can put PS3 into any locomotive that has a DC motor and the room. Unless you have a Plymouth I would think you have the room.


Thanks. Nope. I had to look up Plymouth. Not one of those.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

beachhead2 said:


> John, can you convert a Sunset 3rd Rail diesel to PS3? Have you ever done it?


I've done a bunch of them. Williams and Weaver brass as well.


----------



## beachhead2

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I've done a bunch of them. Williams and Weaver brass as well.


Good to know. Thanks.


----------



## lou1985

Got the LEDs all wired into the GS and tested. Used two flickering red LEDs in the firebox. There's only a tiny hole so I'll see how visible the effect is when it's all back together. Still have to install the rest of the wiring from the PS3 kit.


----------



## Norton

These were oil fired so I doubt there was much flicker anyway. Looking good so far.

Pete


----------



## lou1985

Norton said:


> These were oil fired so I doubt there was much flicker anyway. Looking good so far.
> 
> Pete


Oh yeah. I'm not looking for crazy flicker like a coal fired locomotive. Just a slight variance in the glow from the firebox. My other steam locomotives (all oil fired as I only have ATSF and SP models) have a steady red light. Even oil fired there is a bit of flicker, which I'm hoping is the effect these 2 LEDs create. If it works out I'll retrofit my other locomotives.


----------



## lou1985

Working on the GS6 and got the locomotive wired. I'll work on the tender in a few days. Ended up mounting the 10 pin connector in the factory location.


----------



## Norton

It appears you mounted the new connector on top of the old connector????

Pete


----------



## lou1985

Norton said:


> It appears you mounted the new connector on top of the old connector????
> 
> Pete


Nope. The connector is mounted to a piece of plastic which is mounted to the spot the factory connector was mounted. Had to do it that way to push the connector far enough back so the tether would engage with it.

The idea of mounting the connector to the chassis was nixed because the chassis sits back from the rear of the shell by about 1/3", so the connector wouldn't be able to mount to anything, instead it would just kinda float, which is no good. With the chassis installed you can see the entire connector besides the furthest back diode when looking at it from the bottom.


----------



## Norton

Ok thanks. What looks like the old board must be your plastic shim.

Pete


----------



## lou1985

Norton said:


> Ok thanks. What looks like the old board must be your plastic shim.
> 
> Pete


Yup. The board is on top of a plastic sheet as a shim. I think the below picture should illustrate why I had to mount the board to a shim on the shell rather than the chassis. There's a large gap between the end of the chassis and the back of the cab where the tether comes through.


----------



## Krieglok

I finished the SB slug unit. A few little tweaks to complete, but pretty much finished. Based on an Alco S2 frame. Next one will be a PB&NE slug based on a SW8 frame. 

I learned a few things building this. Many improvements can be included in the next one...

Tom


----------



## Millstonemike

Very nice work. And a beautiful matching set.

The slug has motors only, correct? What was the other term? A unit including a diesel and a generator?


----------



## Krieglok

Thanks Mike. Yes, the slug had traction motors only. There were air hoses and electric cables that connected the slug to the parent unit, a regular locomotive. I need to figure out a way to model the cables/hoses between the slug and the locomotive. 

The engine I used in the pic is a Cambria and Indiana SW8. I have a South Buffalo Alco S2 that slug will be paired with. I just used the C&I unit for the pics as I am too lazy to dig out the S2...lol.

They were both Bethlehem Steel owned railroads, thus the same style yellow and black paint jobs...

Tom


----------



## Norton

Very cool Tom. I like your choice of roadnames. Did you have any difficulty finding decals? 

Pete


----------



## Krieglok

Thanks Pete.

Actually, they are in production now. I had some old HO decals from years ago, but they were just a tad large for the slug. I bought new HO ones from Netzlof and they were just the right size. They make O scale too. I have a couple sets for future projects.

The safety slogan decals came from K4 products on EBay. I used some from their caboose lettering set.

Here is the Netzlof site...

https://www.cmrproducts.com/store/Netzlof-Design-Decals-c23115057

Tom


----------



## EdC

Tom, nice job scratch building the slug. And the paint job is very good.

Nice project, Ed


----------



## Krieglok

Thank you Ed. 

I used a Testor’s yellow spray. I wasn’t too happy with the finish, but it evened out when I finished it with a clear dull coat.

The next project will use Scalecoat 2 for the yellow. I have a few samples to test for similarity. The SB used an industrial yellow that would fade with age, so various shades of yellow were common on SB equipment...

Tom


----------



## lou1985

Wired up the tender and away the GS goes. Still waiting on my decals but it runs.

https://youtu.be/eDo3oQTbdQA


----------



## Krieglok

I am starting a new slug unit for the PB&NE. It will be partnered with my PB&NE SW8. It will look similar to the EMD based units below...

 

I took two MTH SW8 bodies and cut them at about the 1/3rd mark on one and the 2/3rd mark on the second shell. After doing the length cuts, I did the cut to reduce the height of the hoods. I did a lot of filing to get clean sides, free of door and vent details. Once the two ends are joined, a ton of filling and sanding will take place. In the picture, they are still in their rough form and just sitting on the frame.



The frame is altered by adding the short handrails. They are loose in front of the frame in the picture. I will complete the frame first and paint the steps and frame separately.

More to follow...

Tom


----------



## C.Vigs

Tom - fantastic work on the Alco slug. Can't wait to see how the EMD unit comes out.

Just finished detailing and painting a Weaver RS-3. 































Handrails, grab irons, steam generator stack, wire grill on the hood top, and horns are P&D detail parts. The small steam generator cap (between the horn and the end of the short hood) is made out of bass wood. The cab signal box and generator above it (on the engineers side walkway next to the cab) I desgined and had 3-D printed.

Paint is Scalecoat II, Pullman Green and New Haven Orange. Decals were from an old Microscale sheet. 

~C.Vigs


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## Big Ed

Very nice.  I liked.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Fixed a 3rd Rail Big Boy today.

Recent purchase, shelf queen, never ran. 

Upon deliver I saw a broken number board & the bell was missing, which I later found in the box. Was able to solder the number board back to the boiler. Mounting the bell is going to be a little complicated.

As I took a part the gear box to clean & lube it, the front “engine” gear box cover wasn’t properly seated. 

On the test track, it was binding. Rods were hitting the brackets. I took the front “engine“ apart and found bent hanger brackets, missing screws. Fortunately, I had correct size screws.

I carefully straightened the bent hangers and bracket. Checked for interference, and reassembled. While I had everything apart, I took the time to tighten a lot of loose screws, haha!

on the test track it ran beautifully! 

Next, No sound-I literally love the simple repairs, and this one was. The sound board was laying in the tender shell. I put it back together & checked other connections. 

on the test track, it sounded great! Those old QSI sounds sure sound awesome, haha!

Brass locomotives always need a little “tweaking” out of the box, this was no exception.


----------



## Krieglok

Great looking locomotive, Vigs. The detail and paint work is outstanding!

Tom


----------



## lou1985

Got my decals for the ATSF Hudson. Now it's done. Went with a short lived dual Santa Fe herald scheme used in mid 1941.


----------



## MichaelE

I had been having some difficulty with the Roco Br.151 I bought on consignment back in December. 

I found out that the problem was due to a intermediate gear slipping out of the hole for the gear axle. Upon further investigation I found out the the truck frame is cracked at the point where the gear sits in the bogie frame and the crack extends to a weaker point in the bogie where the center wheel set is located.

Under load this was causing the gear to slip out of its mounting hole and then causing the center wheel set to try and ride up higher in the bogie.

So now it sits in front of the maintenance facility waiting on parts from Germany. Parts were only about €25, and that included both front and rear bogie frames and two bottom cover plates for the trucks, and a set of ten traction tires. Of course, shipping was as much as the parts total, but I'll have it running again shortly with two brand new trucks.


----------



## lou1985

Got the GS6 done. Used the same guy for the decals as I did for my ATSF 3464 Hudson project. Has PS3 with a quillable whistle.


----------



## Norton

Another fine job Lou.

Pete


----------



## lou1985

Thanks. Next project I'd like to tackle, if I could get either cheap, is a MTH Premier Santa Fe 2900 class Northern or a Lionel TMCC Southern Pacific AC9. I'd have to get the AC9 stupid cheap as I'd want to convert the tender to a later oil burner.


----------



## Norton

I am on the lookout for a scale Big Boy with oil tender. Prices are nuts on complete ones now, even PS1. No rush though as I have a ton of other projects.

Pete


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## lou1985

I've noticed since 4014 toured last year Big Boy prices have been nuts. I've seen Premier PS1 models going for $800.


----------



## ERIE610

I have a Marx pre war Commodore Vanderbilt that I paid $5 for at our local Train & Toy show. This CV ran in reverse only but ran pretty good. I fixed the reverse only problem by resoldering the E-Unit properly. I also cleaned up the E-Unit as well as the armature & brushes with named brand contact cleaner. Lubed the rest of the motor with the correct lubricants. The 80 something year old motor runs like new now. The old original CV Engine paint was in really ratty shape as well as the paint/rust on some Marx NYC tenders I already had. So I decided to repaint them all. The first step I took was to disassemble everything then media blast the paint & rust away. The next step was to primer all the bare metal with Rustoleum flat black primer. I also cleaned up/polished the side rods with a Dremel tool powered wire brush. I have not decided on the final motif for the Engine /tender at this time. I am leaning towards a WW II Army Olive Drab Livery at this point but that may change. I like to look at decals in person before I buy. However with this Corona Virus mess and the Government Edicts now in force it is now very hard to do business in person now a days. I just may leave this CV flat black & ink stamp a number on the side and run just like that. Please excuse the order of the pictures. Seems that the MTF software decided the attachment's order for me.

SIDE NOTE pictures downloaded from my LG Phoenix 4 cell phone. Not bad for my first try at downloading.

LATER

MEDIA BLASTED RESULTS -- PRIMERED RESULTS-- A RATTY START


----------



## Millstonemike

ERIE610 said:


> I have a Marx pre war Commodore Vanderbilt that I paid $5 for at our local Train & Toy show.


Good progress. The Marx motor's are bullet proof. I had one that only "buzzed" when power was applied. It is now powering this custom Santa Sleigh in the video below:

Video Link: Santa's Sleigh


----------



## Millstonemike

Spent the first half of the afternoon suntanning with a book on a chase lounge chair. Then ate some charbroiled burgers from my wood fired BBQ.

The second half ... I cut a 2' x 4' x 1/8" hardboard into track ties to augment the ties on O-27 tubular track. After accounting for leftover end pieces and the saw blades' kerf, I figure I got about 800 ties out of a theoretical 1,152.


----------



## ERIE610

How many track ties to a foot of tubular track? A 69.4% completion rate for sure. Not to bad. Time now for desert & maybe something cool to drink. After all Model Railroading can such hard work.


----------



## Millstonemike

ERIE610 said:


> How many track ties to a foot of tubular track? A 69.4% completion rate for sure. Not to bad. Time now for desert & maybe something cool to drink. After all Model Railroading can such hard work.


The hardboard cost $4.97 at Home Depot. I'll need approximately 350 ties (see below). So the yield rate was immaterial. And a lucky MTF member may get a bunch of ties for the cost of shipping  

An O-27 straight or curve track requires 6 extra ties each. Three between each of the end ties and the middle tie. I'll be using 10 Marx O-34 curves (wide radius curves in the O-27 profile). They, require 8 ties plus a tie between tracks. So 9 per track. The track planning S/W provides track counts. Do the math and le voilà.

An MTF member posted he put a dab of white glue on the layout, positioned the tie under the track and let it dry. I'd rather attach the ties to the bottom of the track. I need to spray paint the O-34 track including the added ties, maybe all the track.. My first though was hot glue. But after dry positioning a few ties on some test tract, I realize you need to reposition several once you step back and have a look. Hot glue sets too quickly for that. My next thought is two-part epoxy. But I'd love to find a strong, one-part glue that will adhere to metal and set. And I need to create a reference sheet, a jig or something to fix the positioning while gluing ... or go nuts


----------



## Norton

Been working on my stockpile of rolling stock. The yellow MDT reefers were undecorated Red Caboose kits. Most lettering was done with old CDS transfers but only had enough good ones to do three sides. The last side with Microscale decals. The white MDT reefer was a decorated Red Caboose kit so it only had to be assembled. The silver WP Ice Reefers were undecorated Atlas cars. I was going to add them to my MDT fleet but realized painting them would be more effort than I was willing to put into them, sides one color, roof and ends another then all the details black. Would have been easy if it was kit in pieces but not assembled as these were so I discovered WP had these in all silver including the details. Tichy had the decals in stock so thats what they became.


















Pete


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Probably almost too small to mention, but I dropped a CC-M into my K-line RS-3 to give it cruise. Very nice unit with the addition of cruise control. Since I only paid $125 NIB at York last fall for a couple of these, I figured a few more bucks for cruise wouldn't be too big a deal.

I wish I had bought all four of them, he actually had two more. Pretty nice little locomotives, LED lighting, separately lighted number boards, smoke.


----------



## cole226

Millstonemike said:


> The hardboard cost $4.97 at Home Depot. I'll need approximately 350 ties (see below). So the yield rate was immaterial. And a lucky MTF member may get a bunch of ties for the cost of shipping
> 
> An O-27 straight or curve track requires 6 extra ties each. Three between each of the end ties and the middle tie. I'll be using 10 Marx O-34 curves (wide radius curves in the O-27 profile). They, require 8 ties plus a tie between tracks. So 9 per track. The track planning S/W provides track counts. Do the math and le voilà.
> 
> An MTF member posted he put a dab of white glue on the layout, positioned the tie under the track and let it dry. I'd rather attach the ties to the bottom of the track. I need to spray paint the O-34 track including the added ties, maybe all the track.. My first though was hot glue. But after dry positioning a few ties on some test tract, I realize you need to reposition several once you step back and have a look. Hot glue sets too quickly for that. My next thought is two-part epoxy. But I'd love to find a strong, one-part glue that will adhere to metal and set. And I need to create a reference sheet, a jig or something to fix the positioning while gluing ... or go nuts
> 
> View attachment 540636


Would it be any advantage to spike them?


----------



## Millstonemike

cole226 said:


> Would it be any advantage to spike them?


Not sure if I understand your suggestion. If you mean adding spikes as detail, I'm won't be striving for that level of "authenticity". If you mean "nailing them down to the layout", I'd want to attach them to the bottom of the track as I mentioned.

My current thought is to create one of each track type using best efforts. Then use it as a reference or make a jig from it. Maybe a mold by pressing a a finished piece into mortar or plaster of Paris.


----------



## cole226

My thought was spiking rail to tie like the rigid Ross track.I don't
I don't know if your ties are soft enough to push a brad or spike into or not. Setting up a jig and predrilling each would be time consuming.










Ross Custom Switches 1/4 spikes 1000 @ $15.00


----------



## Millstonemike

The hardboard would not take well to a spike and that's a lot of work.


----------



## cole226

Millstonemike said:


> The hardboard would not take well to a spike and that's a lot of work.


No doubt, just thought I'd throw it out there.


----------



## Krieglok

Finished my PB&NE Nw based slug unit. Doing a matching NW2 next...

Tom


----------



## Norton

Beauty Tom, Don't think the factory could so better.

Pete


----------



## Krieglok

Thank you Pete! The stock Lionel NW2 doesn’t match as the frame is shorter than the MTH NW2 frame the slug is built upon. I am doing a MTH NW2 in PB&NE colors next...

Tom


----------



## EdC

Wow! Nice work. I bet that was a fun project.
Ed


----------



## Millstonemike

Looking good. Nice workmanship.


----------



## Krieglok

Thanks, guys. This is only the second time I have done a major kitbash in o scale...

I may try a larger hump yard slug next...

Tom


----------



## Norton

Put another kit together. This by Intermountain. Intermountain kits come with both 2 rail and 3 rail wheelsets. Their assembled cars came one way or the other so if you see one for sale be aware. Still have to add some weight to these. They navigate Gargraves OK but if I ever put them in a train I would put some Weaver 3 rail trucks on them.



















Pete


----------



## Krieglok

Great looking cars. I like the basic boxcar red, really nice steam era look.

do you operate 2 rail O scale too? Look at those skinny wheels!

Tom


----------



## Norton

I just run on 3 rail track. I did put two rail wheelsets on the kit cars as they are mostly for display. With 3 rail wheelsets some of the brake and air lines would have to trimmed. 
Intermountain made a few scale reefers for K-Line but had to eliminate most all of the underbody detail except the tank and cylinders. These would run on large diameter 3 rail curves though as is. The yellow Santa Fe reefer is a K-Line car made by Intermountain.











Pete


----------



## 86TA355SR

Here’s a Big Boy I fixed. New PSC number boards and bell, a little solder, paint, good as new!

My new project is a Challenger.


----------



## mvdeschane

*"C’mon guys. Any locomotive or car projects happening"?*
This is almost a constant with me. I have decoders needing installation and loco's needing attention, always.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I have a number of the MTH Premiere Strasburg Woodside passenger cars with the new LED lighting. I was immediately disappointed on the first trip around the tracks that they flickered more than the old incandescent cars, that's something I certainly didn't expect to see! I popped the top off of one of the cars, very easy as there are only five or six screws (depending on the exact car configuration). With the spring contacts, there is no wiring between the shell and the frame, just lift the chassis off and place it out of the way. Once inside, it was apparent why the excessive flicker, there is NO bulk capacitance to stop the flicker! There are four diodes forming a bridge rectifier, and individual LED's with an associated resistor for each LED, nothing else. I also note that only half of the LED positions are filled, the PCB actually allows for nine LED's, four of the positions are not populated. It would have been nice to have all the positions populated and simply increase each of the resistors to more evenly distribute the same amount of light. I guess the extra ten or fifteen cents was too much to bear for a car that sells for $99.95! 

How is that possible Lionel comes out with passenger cars that stay lighted a couple minutes after you kill the power, MTH comes out with passenger cars that have no flicker resistance at all!

Here's what you see when you open them up. Looking closely, I see at the end opposite the some holes that have nothing in them, and they're directly across the rectified power coming into the car...










How convenient, I popped the strip out (four screws), and turned it over. There is just room enough between the top of the shell and the board on it's supports to stick two 220uf 35V capacitors. The fit just right, just make sure to get the polarity right. 440uf should be plenty of capacitance to tame the flicker.










Since I want to be able to run DCS, I needed to insert a 22uh choke in the power feed to the lighting. Note the heatshrink that is placed over the choke and shrunk after soldering. The choke can be inserted in either of the power wires, this one happened to be more convenient.










After replacing the strip in the top of the shell, note that the capacitors are totally hidden, they're on the other side next to the roof under the strip.










Drop the chassis on and secure it with the removed screws and enjoy flicker-free LED lighting for about 10-15 cents more a car.


----------



## lou1985

A local friend has a conventional K-Line Illinois Central Berkshire he really wanted to run under DCS. Being that I've got more free time than usual lately I was able to install a steam PS3 kit in it for him with all LED lights. Came out pretty good, although it would be nice if the motor was a little smoother. It cogs a little below 10 scale mph.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Looks like this had K-Line cruise in it, otherwise that PCB wouldn't be on the motor.


----------



## SDIV Tim

I’m contemplating on taking one of my 3 19th Century Ten Wheelers and converting one into a DRG&W T-12. Similar to 168 on the C&T.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## lou1985

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Looks like this had K-Line cruise in it, otherwise that PCB wouldn't be on the motor.
> 
> View attachment 541247


That it did. But it was conventional control. I didn't even know that was an option.


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## santafe158

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I also note that only half of the LED positions are filled, the PCB actually allows for nine LED's, four of the positions are not populated. It would have been nice to have all the positions populated and simply increase each of the resistors to more evenly distribute the same amount of light.


John, I know your thoughts on the more evenly distributed light and I can't say I disagree but looking back on photos from my trip to Strasburg, the car I rode in only had about 5 light fixtures spaced down the length of the car. They were electrified (probably replica?) gas lamp type fixtures. They may have only used that many in the model on purpose to replicate the prototypical lighting locations? Not a great excuse, but perhaps an idea that went into the design while utilizing a general purpose PCB board? Although thinking back on it, I think my older PRR streamlined cars had a lot of open light socket spaces throughout as well before I converted them to LED's...


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Hard to say Jake, I just think that the passenger cars look better with more even lighting. However, since it at least is LED lighting and doesn't flicker anymore, I thought that was sufficient. I'm now looking at double-heading two of the Strasburg 4-4-0 locomotives to pull the twelve woodside coaches. One of those little guys was having a bit of trouble with the whole load.  I think I may have to try to buy a spare pilot for one of them so I can hack it to add a lobster claw to connect them.


----------



## santafe158

You could also search for one of the very tough to find Lionel Strasburg #89 2-6-0's for a more prototypical look 😁


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## gunrunnerjohn

I have a conventional Mogul that I'm going to upgrade and get painted for Strasburg, but that's still waiting in the wings. I did an upgrade of one of those for a customer, so I know the drill now.


----------



## Don F

On the weekend, I did a little scenery enhancement on the Wrong Way RR shelf layout. I added some carpentry figures to do some repair work on one of the wood trestles my son and I built which was made to be in dire need of repairs. Burned support post from a hot box fire, and lots of rotted floor boards on the catwalks. I picked up a CP TOFC from Weaver just before the closure, and have decided to modify it into a work car for the bridge repair scene. I am thinking about fabricating a jib crane, I'm undecided if it will be fixed, or on track to move along the bed. I spent about an hour yesterday cutting some scale beams and floor planking to use as a load on the flatcar. I'll post progress and photos as the project continues.


----------



## Don F

Started working on posts, planks, cribbing, and a set of saw horses for the Wrong Way RR bridge repair project. I grabbed a chunk of white oak from the wood pile to make everything. I glued the posts together, and two planks at a time until they dry and can more can be added. The horses are partially done; the legs need to be evened, and gussets attached to the legs.


----------



## Don F

A few more progress pics on the bridge MOW project. I have to wait until the glue is dry to finish the horses, and a lot more lumber has to be added to the flat car. I got a few photos of prospective crane designs for the flat car last night.


----------



## Don F

More progress pics of the bridge repair project. The posts and planks are loaded on the TOFC flatcar doubling as a MOW car, and a load of ties await the work crew. Was metal banding used in the fifties for wood? If so, I'll use my method of cutting thin strips of black duck tape to use as banding.


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## 86TA355SR

Nice work Don, enjoy your progress.

Today I finished the valve gear for an FEF. I’m hoping to have the model completed by the end of May.


----------



## Don F

86TA355SR said:


> Nice work Don, enjoy your progress.
> 
> Today I finished the valve gear for an FEF. I’m hoping to have the model completed by the end of May.


Thank you. Hope you are enjoying your project, and that it meets or exceeds expectations.


----------



## cole226

Don, do you run 2 rail rolling stock or are they just posing for the pics?


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## Don F

Randy,
Those are Weaver cars, and are 3 rail that have scale couplers. I would love to do 2 tail, but the shelf layout is 3 rail track, and I'm not going to replace it. I have a Weaver CNJ RS3 with scale couplers and fixed pilots that I can use to pull these and a few others that have scale couplers.


----------



## cole226

Gotcha, didn't know if you had big enough turns to do scale couplers. *I wonder, have you ever seen anybody have truck mounted scale couplers ?*


----------



## Don F

The inner loop is O54, and the cars had no difficulty negotiating the curve. I have not seen truck mounted scale couplers. Someone else may be able to comment.


----------



## Don F

I made a wood extension ladder for the MOW bridge repair project, and put banding around the beams and planks for the flat car. I have to make the rung latches for the ladder, and glue the extender guides, but that will be a task for another day.


----------



## Millstonemike

The ladder looks similar to a ladder my family had when I was 5 in 1963. No trees on the property as the house was built on farmland. But we used it get into the garage attic.


----------



## Don F

I too have memories of wood extension ladders going back to my early childhood. Two that stand out from more recent times are my wife stepping away from footing the ladder as I was lowering it, causing it to crash to the ground, and the other was a wrung I was standing on that broke, causing me to fall until my under arm was supported by the 100 amp service line attached to the house near the ladder as I dropped. The model is a decent first attempt, and provided a learning curve for future projects.


----------



## DennyM

I have to find out why the smoke unit fan stopped working on my Lionel K4. I'm all out of fan motors so I hope it's something else.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Needless to say Denny, the exact model of the locomotive is going to be key in the discussion.


----------



## C.Vigs

This weekends project - making a New Haven 58000 series gondola out of an early AHM model.

The New Haven's 58000 series gondolas were 40' inside length gondolas, with 4 drop doors for ease of unloading. Built in 1929 by the roads own shops, several lasted well into the 1960s in both revenue and MOW service. What has frustrated me for years is that this gondola series, as well as the nearly identical 42' inside length 60000 series gondolas, have 10 panel sides, which I have not seen in an O-scale model.

For those unaware, alphabetroute.com has excellent diagrams of most of the New Haven's freight and passenger equipment, and is an invaluable resource for modeling New Haven equipment: Alphabet Route - New York, New Haven, and Hartford
Some prototype photos can be found in this thread, on the forum of the New Haven Historical and Technical Association: 58000 -58499 and 60000-60699series gondola cars photos

I started with an old AHM model - not sure of the exact year, but cast into the bottom is "Made in West Germany". These are cheap and plentiful online - I purchased 2 for $20 shipped a few months ago.










The AHM model is an 8-panel gondola, but has the correct 40' inside length. I started by sanding the sides flat with a small belt sander, finishing with 220 and then 400 grit sandpaper. In the middle of the sanding process, I like to apply a thin primer coat - this helps highlight any imperfections and rough areas that need further sanding.

I measured our the locations of the new ribs - one at the centerline of the car, followed by 4 more on each side at 1" spacing (for a 9 rib, 10 panel side). New ribs were made in a two step process - first, a strip of 0.020" thick styrene was cut ~0.180" wide. This was glued onto the car side on the centerline of each rib location. Then, a section of 0.060" square styrene was cut to length, one end chamfered, and then glued on top of and centered on the flat styrene segments to create each rib. Each car end received a section of 0.020" thick styrene cut 0.090" wide.

These cars appear to have a wide brim around the top - much wider than the stock AHM model had. Once again, strips of 0.020" thick styrene were cut side wide enough to be flush with both the inside of the gondola wall, and outside of the ribs. Each was cut 1/8" longer than the length of the car side to overhand each end - I can't give a specific length here the two sides of the same car were slightly different lengths. I confirmed this on the second car I hadn't yet modified - there is about a 1/16" difference in length between the two sides. Weird. Additional strips filled in the brim over the car ends, and then each corner was sanded round.

Finally, holes for separate grab irons were drilled and the grab irons were glued in place.
























More progress to follow.

~C.Vigs


----------



## Don F

Cool project, and great source of info.


----------



## Krieglok

Added a nose mounted bell to my MTH N&W GP9...


----------



## C.Vigs

I added corner reinforcement plates to the gondola, as well as representing the four trap doors on the gondola deck. Used .020" sheet and 0.040" square styrene. Also finished priming.
Next will be the black overcoat and decals. I'm going to apply the delivery paint scheme with "NYNH&H" on the sides, as opposed to the later "New Haven" spelled out or the McGinnis scheme.


























~C.Vigs


----------



## Don F

Nice progress.


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## Krieglok

Vigs, the gin looks great. Can’t wait to see it finished!

Tom


----------



## lou1985

Stuck an ERR CCM in my Lionel TMCC SP scale Consolidation. Runs about 100% better. Next on the list is a LC+ smoke unit, 4 chuffs a revolution, and a motor swap to a Pittman 8412 motor to replace the RS385. Gonna put some grunt in this little thing.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

There may be a limit to how much "grunt" you can add to a Consolidation, part of the equation is the weight on the wheels. It's a fairly small locomotive, so there is only so much traction available, regardless of what motor it has. Then there's the issue of of the motor.


----------



## lou1985

I'm looking more for low speed grunt starting a train. I'm not looking to pull 50 cars just better low speed starting than the factory RS385 motor can provide. Even with the CCM it's just marginal. I've already got a 7 pole Pittman 8412 motor (same size as the RS385) and a guy who can modify and pull the worm from the RS385 and put it on the Pittman. Just got to send it to him. Then the little Consolidation will be doing burnouts .


----------



## C.Vigs

Thanks for the compliment Tom! Another progress update for you all. 

I've painted and decaled my GA-2 gondola. Decals are from K4 Supply Company, the first time I've used this brand. Seeing they had decals available for these gondolas already designed and for sale is what pushed this project from my "that'd be a fun project" list to action. The graphics were crisp, and their decal film was by far the easiest I've used in terms of seperating the decal from the backing - I had them in water for less than 10 seconds. Unfortunately, they also had a tendancy to fold up on each other. I was able to unfold the two or three curled decals without damaging the lettering. These require a little more care and far less water/solvent than other brands I've used. 



















Don't get used to it looking clean and shiny - if there were any still roaming around in the late 50's - early 60's in their 1929 delivery paint they would be beaten up, rusted, and grungy, and that is how this one will look. I'll do a second in the latter paint with 'New Haven" spelled out that may remain clean. 

~C.Vigs


----------



## C.Vigs

All done with one. Weathered with several layers of chalks, and a little fine loose sand in the corners of the gondola floor. I'm very happy with how this turned out.









































I also began working on a second gondola, which will have the AHM trucks replaced with Weaver trucks. Replacing the trucks requires cutting the bolster off and fabricating a new one, so while I'm at it I'll move the trucks outwards a little bit to better replicate the prototype. The AHM trucks do not track well, even with weight added, plus the plastic molded coupler looks lousy and its attachment is fragile. 

~C.Vigs


----------



## 86TA355SR

I’m modifying a Challenger pilot to the later style.

Combination of PSC parts and stuff from my parts box.

More to come.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Ready for paint and new numbers.


----------



## WITZ 41

Sweet mod Aaron. That's going to look awesome when finished.


----------



## Magic

That does look much cleaner, nice work.

Magic


----------



## C.Vigs

I like the new pilot - the exposed compressors are much more interesting than the covered ones.

I'm done with gondola number 2. This one will remain fairly clean - I weathered the floor just a tad to highlight the edges/details, so it doesn't look like you're staring into a void. 

On this one, I removed the original trucks and bolsters. I made a new bolster out of bass wood, and applied weaver trucks. The trucks were moved farther towards the ends, so the bolster centerline is under the first rib in from each end. The corner steps were also cut off and replaced with bronze wire.


































Comparison of the first and second:


















~C.Vigs


----------



## DennyM

I installed new running lights in my Lionel K4 Tuscan Legacy. The upper running lights no problem. The lower running lights are a PITA. After two days I still don't have them in. I decided to leave them out and try again another day.


----------



## Norton

+1 on K4 decals. This tender was relettered with K4 decals. He has a pretty extensive collection of NYC decals.










Pete


----------



## Krieglok

Nice NYCS engine. I still have my USRA 0-6-0 awaiting the K4 decals I bought a while back. They are great decals!

Tom


----------



## Norton

Tom, cab number determines if I letter it NYC or one of the subs. Changing the numbers in the headlight, backup light and in some cases number plaques on the headlight can be a bit of a pain. This came as an L&N. The parent company 0-8-0s were numbered in the 7700-7900 range. Actually I have no idea what the Michigan Central numbered their 0-8-0s, just took a little modeling license.

Pete


----------



## lou1985

Well I've got another one. Needs boards, motor, driveshaft, and paint. A MTH Premier Santa Fe 2900 class Northern. Going to end up as road number 2903, because I've seen 2903 several times at the Illinois Railway Museum.


----------



## WITZ 41

Had some time to work on another vintage Atlas O 6222, 40' Stock Car, CNW #4992 upgrade/renumber.

Older Austrian made. Nice detail. Even with plastic trucks and wheels. 

I pick them up for $10-$15, use Tichy Train Group decals to renumber. Install wheel sets I have sitting around to the existing trucks then add Kadee couplers. Simple easy change.

Super cost effective way to create a long unit train of stock cars.

Another one down. A dozen or so to go.....














































A generous couple of dustings with Testors Dull-cote and they don't look half bad....










A previous comparison....










A final note. The Decals when photographed with my phone camera must pick up a greater reflection frequency. They appear whiter in the pictures than the yellow seen to the eye.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Well done W.!

Hope you post more of your modeling as you progress.

Aaron


----------



## lou1985

Done some work on the ATSF Northern. Painted the smokebox front and laid black on the boiler.


----------



## Millstonemike

lou1985 said:


> Done some work on the ATSF Northern. Painted the smokebox front and laid black on the boiler.
> 2


Very nice. Painting technique?


----------



## lou1985

Millstonemike said:


> Very nice. Painting technique?


Thanks. Believe it or not both are rattle can. I did the smokebox front with Rustoleum gunmetal, because I didn't want to mix up a small amount of paint just for that. Boiler is SEM trim black. Lays like glass out of the can. After decals it'll get a layer of clear satin.


----------



## Millstonemike

lou1985 said:


> Thanks. Believe it or not both are rattle can. I did the smokebox front with Rustoleum gunmetal, because I didn't want to mix up a small amount of paint just for that. Boiler is SEM trim black. Lays like glass out of the can. After decals it'll get a layer of clear satin.


Way cool. The Rustoleum "metallic" gunmetal looks just flawless in the hi-res pic. Not familiar with the "SEM" acronym / name.


----------



## lou1985

Millstonemike said:


> Way cool. The Rustoleum "metallic" gunmetal looks just flawless in the hi-res pic. Not familiar with the "SEM" acronym / name.


It's this stuff: Trim Black Gloss Black | SEM Products

I've used a bunch of their stuff over the years in my car hobby. Never had an issue with any of their products. Top quality stuff.


----------



## ERIE610

SEM has been around for more years than I care to remember. Their products cater to the Auto Enthusiast for the most part. However some of the same products can be applied to model railroading. A link to their website is shown below.

All Products | SEM Products


----------



## lou1985

Painted some backhead details and the cab interior on my ATSF Northern project.


----------



## Magic

Very nice indeed.  

Magic


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## lou1985

ATSF Northern has been at a standstill for a bit but finally got the tender shell decaled and clear coated today. Have to do the same to the cab and boiler and then wire it. After that it'll be done.


----------



## Magic

Looking very good, nice work.

Magic


----------



## Norton

I picked up a second Lionel Niagara. This one was barely run and still had the original plastic gears and driveshaft. While swapping out the parts I noticed something I hadn't on the first one. The drivers are held on with a plate rather than through the frame like most three rail engines. This made converting from two chuffs to four much easier. Simpler to pull a driver when its not next to the frame. I can make these cams in about twenty minutes and only costs me time. 









The Niagara cams are in the center, left are cams used in the Lionel TMCC Mogul and on the right are NYC TMCC J3a Hudson cams. The latter appears round due to the puffer unit lever guide on either side of the cam.









This will get renumbered to 6023 and I am still waiting on decals.

Pete


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Pete, how do you get the quartering correct, do you use a jig or eyeball?

The TMCC Mogul is easy, just buy the conventional Mogul wheel set with the cam. For reasons that I can't imagine, the conventional wheelset has a 4-lobe cam and the TMCC version has a 2-lobe cam.

*Conventional Mogul*









*TMCC Mogul*


----------



## Norton

I didn't know about the conventional version having 4 lobes until you pointed that out a while back. I had already made a few extra cams but have since picked up one of the wheelsets above. Unlikely I will use either now with 4 moguls in hand.
I use a small rule with a centering head to scribe a line across the axle and wheel usually in line with the rod mount as a frame of referance. The axles are knurled so if you eyeball it close the wheel will line up with the closest knurl.
Not an issue with the Hudson as the screw on wheels have a D shaped cup that fits into the axle.








Pete


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I found out about the 4-lobe cam when I was doing a TMCC upgrade and I was already to do the Chuff-Generator when I noticed it had the different cam than the TMCC one I was also working on.


----------



## Norton

Lou, you do great paint work. Do you use an airbrush or a detail spray gun?

Pete


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## lou1985

Got the cab decaled and clear coated today. Last thing to decal/clear coat is the sand dome on the boiler (road number 2903).


----------



## lou1985

Norton said:


> Lou, you do great paint work. Do you use an airbrush or a detail spray gun?
> 
> Pete


Thanks. I use a combination of air brush and spray cans most times. This particular project has been all SEM spray cans (black and clear). The nozzles on the cans are automotive grade and are almost as good as an airbrush. Paint flows really smooth out of them. I'm going to go with this SEM combo on any future black steam locomotive builds. Results are just as good as airbrushing and I don't have to drag a bunch of stuff out/mix paint and still get great results.


----------



## lou1985

Got the tender wired and completed on my ATSF Northern project. Now to start on the cab and boiler reassembly and wiring that.


----------



## lou1985

Finished wiring the locomotive and ta da, complete ATSF 2900 class Northern: 





Modified the sound file so it has the same whistle as my PS3 Blue Goose and 3460 class Hudsons. Now all my ATSF steam passenger locomotives have the same whistle.


----------



## trainman32780

Just completed FEC double stack in FEC new GROUPO MEXICO scheme and also custom containers new big logo FEC 53 ft box and custom 40ft TROPICAL


----------



## lou1985

Got another project. A friend (where I get my projects from) found an earlier PS2 5V 5011 class that had been around the MTH shop a bit. Banged up from kicking around the MTH parts departments as a donor or warranty return it looked worse for wear, missing all electronics, motor, flywheel, and worm shaft. Friend was able to add a worm, flywheel, and a nice big 9234 roller bearing Pittman motor. Also threw in a ATSF Blue Goose tender chassis, and I sourced a Lionel ATSF 20K gallon tender shell. Ended up with this pile of parts.










Now if you're an ATSF guy you might know where this is going. I already have a 5011 class Texas. I don't like to own duplicate models of the same locomotive (ok except the 3 Premier ATSF 3460 class Hudsons I own) so this Texas needed to be different. I got inspiration from this article: https://oscalekings.org/WP/gar...f-2-10-4-class-5001/
No one has made a ATSF 5001 class Texas in 3 rail O, so I'm going to make my own. I've already sourced the major components and an outside bearing pilot truck. The model is sitting like this now.


















I'm going for accuracy, but some things won't be perfect, such is 3 rail. The 5011 class Boxpok drivers will remain as there are no equivalent size 3 rail Baldwin disc drivers like the 5001 class used. There will be other changes to match the prototype. The number boards will be relocated to the sand dome like on a 5001 class. The stack is going to be changed to the proper flip stack. No one makes the correct ATSF hand operated flip stack, so my friend Pat is going to machine the proper stack out of brass, once I get him the correct measurements. I have to knock the incorrect stack out of the boiler first and take measurements. Locomotive will be numbered 5009 and it'll have PS3, so I can double head it with my 5011 class Texas if I want. It will be one of one when it's done. Only 3 rail 5001 class Texas.


----------



## Millstonemike

Restoring my next bath of tinplate. A 259 2-4-2 circa 1936 and early 610,612 passenger cars circa 1915. The iengine, tender and car roofs have been sandblasted. The cars and trucks are next. They'll get painted in an MTH Christmas set colors depicted below. This time around I'll be using gloss paint instead of satin - Rustoleum basic rattle can. I was impressed with the finish of the Rustoleum white gloss I used for window inserts on my previous restoration so I'm moving up to gloss.






























Prior restoration Video


----------



## machinist

Good Evening Everyone,

Here are a couple of little Monongahela Railway projects that I just recently completed.

The first couple photos are Monongahela 3 bay coal hoppers. There were 5 of them that started as Lionscale(ex-Weaver) satin black undecorated 3 bay hoppers. No one makes Monongahela rolling stock decals, so for the Monongahela name, the MGA reporting letters and the road numbers, I used Woodland Scenics dry transfers in two styles just for variety.. Standard railroad Roman and wide railroad Gothic fonts. All those letters/numbers were applied individually on all 5 cars. The data information/data plates are decals from K4 Decals and were cut from larger hopper sheets from different roadnames. The area where the decals are applied was painted gloss black first. The cars were then top coated with Krylon low odor clear satin. The coal loads were also made by me and were extras that I had made some months ago.(there is a thread about coal loads that I posted in, explaining my process).

The third photo is an MTH Premier 64' woodsided passenger coach that I just completed today(actually did 3 of them with different numbers). The Public Delivery Track did a special run of these coaches painted in Pullman Green but with no decoration. While the Monongahela Railway existed mainly to haul coal, it did have passenger service until the 1950's. In the earlier part of the 20th Century there were at least 10 passenger trains per day. Again, no one makes decals for this so I used Woodland Scenics gold railroad Roman dry transfers for the letters/numbers all individually applied-this job was a real PITA! The other detail I added was the green "stained glass" to the small rectangular windows just above the larger windows along the car sides. I purchased some Emerald Green translucent sticky vinyl tape and after removing the car shell, I applied it to the inside of the windows. This was also a giant PITA.

Now all I need is the Lionel 4-6-0 I have just pre-ordered to arrive next year and re-do that into a Monongahela engine and I'm set.


----------



## Magic

Looking very nice indeed.  

Magic


----------



## Krieglok

Trainman, the double stack looks really great. The colors and weathering are perfect!

Mike, the tinplate restoration is coming along great. The Rustoleum paint is top notch. The same company produces the Testor’s line of model paints now.

Nick, the hoppers are really sharp. It takes patience and a steady hand to do the dry transfers. It must have taken a while to complete them. Nice!

Lou, as always, your work is amazing. All the skills from painting, decaling, body work and electrical...all in one package! I am envious!

Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I guess this was a project. I bought a NIB Legacy Mogul, just to see if they were as bad as advertised. It turned out to be a minor project, basically added the missing bushings to the front set of drivers (Thanks Pete), and replaced the Lionel fat traction tires with much slimmer MTH traction tires. Runs like a top and no hint of all the issues that were widely broadcast about these.


----------



## Krieglok

Missing bushings? That is kind of a major defect, isn’t it?

Did the whole run of these engines have the same issues? The traction tires are old news, but missing parts sounds major.

Anyway, it is a great looking locomotive. I like the smaller size steamers with great details.

Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Apparently a lot of them were missing the bushings, Pete got a couple that way, and I've heard others say the same thing. I don't see all the other issues reported, one wonders exactly what was going on.

I did have to move the traction tires back to the front drivers, I didn't really want to. However, only the rear drivers are sprung, and they don't have enough spring tension to always provide enough traction. I think the suspension on this leaves something to be desired, it actually "rocks" on the center driver.


----------



## Norton

Tom, its not clear why Lionel couldn’t fix them themselves. Its a trivial omission and easily corrected.
Even after they used the few spares that had in stock when these were released they could have made more made locally. They are in NASCAR central. There must be dozens of machine shops that could have cranked out the part. The three Legacy engines I have were all missing this.









BTW the Lionel parts page for the Legacy Mogul doesn't even list the bushing but all the previous releases show the part.
Pete


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Norton said:


> BTW the Lionel parts page for the Legacy Mogul doesn't even list the bushing but all the previous releases show the part.
> Pete


Probably why they forgot it!


----------



## J.Albert1949

gunrunner john -
Re your pic of the B&M 1397...
... Here's the 1455 that survives at the Danbury Railway Museum:


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Cool, the Lionel one is a surprisingly close match.


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## Krieglok

Danbury. That is a nice museum. I was there a couple years ago while attending a hockey tournament for my son.

I was given a tour of the FL9 by the fellow who is more or less in charge of restoring it. I sent him a set of 24RL handles, both automatic and independent, and a reverser handle, as theirs were stolen.

Great place to visit...

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

I finished this Weaver 40’ steel car the other day. This one is staying in a gloss finish, with weathering to be added later..










I finally found a MTH Dummy D&H Shark A unit. MTH made the A-B set in PS2/3v which I acquired recently. The D&H never actually owned any B units with their Sharks. One unit needs to be renumbered to be correct. I also plan to move the running gear from the B unit into the Dummy A unit.










Finally, I am putting together an ore train. It will be mostly Milwaukee Road with some other Midwest ore haulers included. I am buying K-Line cars with the metal trucks. I grind down the top of the truck bolster, so the car sits at a slightly more realistic height. The K-Line cars have the foot stirrups that Lionel, MTH and others do not have, otherwise they are all pretty much the same.










Tom


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## gunrunnerjohn

Tom, if you're going to post photos here, linking them from another forum isn't really the answer.


----------



## Krieglok

They showed up a photos on my pc. Are they links on the post here? I didn’t mean to do that...

Should be fixed now. 

Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

You obviously belong to that "other" forum as that's where the graphics are apparently hosted. In addition, they're apparently only thumbnails from the size of them, here's the image info from one of them.


----------



## Krieglok

Yes I contribute to a number of venues. MTF, OGR and OGF.

I will be sure to not co-mingle information again. My apologies to those who were possibly offended by my technical error.

Tom


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## gunrunnerjohn

I don't think there was any offense, just letting you know we couldn't really see them.


----------



## lou1985

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Apparently a lot of them were missing the bushings, Pete got a couple that way, and I've heard others say the same thing. I don't see all the other issues reported, one wonders exactly what was going on.
> 
> I did have to move the traction tires back to the front drivers, I didn't really want to. However, only the rear drivers are sprung, and they don't have enough spring tension to always provide enough traction. I think the suspension on this leaves something to be desired, it actually "rocks" on the center driver.


Why would they only have one set of drivers sprung? That doesn't seem like solid chassis engineering.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Not sure what they were thinking.


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## lou1985

Didn't even start on the ATSF Texas and I've got another project, Premier UP FEF. This will get a PS3 kit as well. Now with 2 locomotive projects I should keep myself pretty busy when it gets cold outside in a month or two.


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## lou1985

Repaired the running boards on the FEF and painted them and the smoke deflectors to eliminate the white stripe and scratches. Also repaired the bell bracket and added a bell. I'll work on the tender next. After that I have to paint my ATSF Texas project so it's done before the weather goes fully south. I can work on adding PS3 to both when the weather turns cooler.


----------



## lou1985

Got the tender for the ATSF Texas project done. The large "Santa Fe" is factory Lionel lettering. I changed the numbers with decals and clear coated everything. I also repainted the MTH trucks and tool boxes black from blue. I'm working on finishing up the locomotive.


----------



## WITZ 41

Finally got back around to my 3rd Rail E7 A project. (2 rail) Modified to "1948" appearance with pilot, roof grabs, period correct nose herald and painted gray trucks. 

Here's a bunch of photos. Original 3rd rail, my inspiration, and good enough to call it quits. Also some picks along with the 3rd Rail Alco PA (3 rail) which will be my next "1948" project.....









































































The PA1 nose herald is correct for 1948 but I'll have to paint the trucks gray, change the dual bulb lamps with single bulbs lamps, and I'm going to fabricate an Alco style closed coupler door for the fixed pilot. That's why I haven't installed the scale coupler piece.


----------



## Norton

Wow, the E7 pilot is incredible. Did you fab that or does someone offer it? Also looking forward to your PA pilot project. I plan to do that with my MTH NYC PA. I go back and forth on to whether start with a solid brass insert machined to fit or use sheet brass. 

Pete


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## WITZ 41

Thanks Pete.

It is an OMI brass pilot for a UP E6. Filed down and bent to round it out a bit. It's been heavily modified to come as close to E7 photograph evidence as possible. Not perfect but as good as my skill will allow. I posted several picks of progress throughout my "O Gauge Union Pacific" thread at the "other place".

































I still have one more NIB brass OMI E6 pilot part. I'm holding it in case 3rd rail does a 2nd E6 run.

As for the PA1 coupler doors, I'm leaning towards sheet brass. Bent/formed to shape with "spring tongue clips" so it snaps into the existing opening on the pilot. I'll cut or score the line for the door seam and add wire for the handles. I'll figure it out as I go.


----------



## Krieglok

Outstanding work. Very impressive brass work. The UP engines are really sharp.

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Great job W.,

The pilot looks awesome and the pictures of those fine diesels are equally impressive!

Can‘t wait to see more of your mods/models.

“Talk“ soon partner,

Aaron


----------



## lou1985

Well my MTH Premier ATSF 5011 class Texas to 5001 class Texas project is rolling along. I'm doing this because there is no 3 rail 5001 class Texas and I got the model cheap. It's mostly cosmetically done. I have a friend making the proper flip stack out of brass stock. I just need that and to make some number board inserts and it's cosmetically done. Then I just need to wire it and install the electronics.


----------



## Firewood

Beautiful stuff - great job!


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## gunrunnerjohn

Looks great Lou.


----------



## Lehigh74

Nothing earth shaking here. I put LED lighting in my PRR streamlined passenger cars. I’m electronically challenged and I’m happy when I finish a project and it actually works. I’ve done general lighting in passenger cars using John’s LED regulator several times so that was no big deal, but I have only done marker lights in observation cars once and I wasn’t sure if it would go smoothly. The last time I did one, it was a Madison car and I had to get nano LEDs to fit in the lanterns. For the streamlined cars, MTH had a neat bracket to hold the lights in place. I had a bunch of 3V LEDs so I tied 4 together in parallel and fed them with an Evan Designs regulator. The MTH bracket had holders for the side markers and the drumhead. I added a light for the rear marker.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Looks good Bob. I typically add those by just tapping into the LED strip with the appropriate series resistor. This was a RailKing observation car with the side markers and taillight. The two LED's suspended line up with the body mounted markers, and the heatshrink keeps them from creating a hot spot near the LED.


----------



## Lehigh74

I thought you told me that adding the raw LEDs might overload the regulator. Will adding the resistor solve that?
The Evans rectifier is only $2 and includes a capacitor so not a big expense anyway..


----------



## Millstonemike

Lehigh74 said:


> I thought you told me that adding the raw LEDs might overload the regulator. Will adding the resistor solve that?
> The Evans rectifier is only $2 and includes a capacitor so not a big expense anyway..


The LED strip has resistors built in for each LED. The strips typically require a nominal 12V (or 5 V version) subject to the user's brightness requirement. The raw red LEDs require 2.25+ V. So to power both the strip and red LEDs off one regulator, you need to add a resistor (s) for the raw red LEDs.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Lehigh74 said:


> I thought you told me that adding the raw LEDs might overload the regulator. Will adding the resistor solve that?
> The Evans rectifier is only $2 and includes a capacitor so not a big expense anyway..


What he said.  However, usually for the markers, I actually add a larger resistor because they don't need that much light. In the above example, I put a 1K resistor in series with the three series LED bulbs. That did a nice job on the markers, and didn't suck up all the power. The worry is not overloading the regulator, but if you were to just put the LED's across with no resistor, they'd have a lower starting voltage than the ones on the strip with the resistor.That would cause those LED's to light brighter and starve the strip for power. It's a balancing act to get the correct ratio, and it's usually done empirically by trial-n-error.


----------



## Lehigh74

Thanks John and Mike. Good to know. Next time I may try some raw LEDs in series with a 1K resistor. I also have some LEDs prewired with a resistor included. I may try them in series and see what happens.


----------



## BillTrzaskus

My son and I built a magnet car for retrieving metal debris from the tracks. Simple build we just took an O27 flat car that was lying around and drilled a couple of holes and attached a steel plate. Then added a high powered rare earth magnet. Works great, you wouldn't believe how much is on your layout.


----------



## lou1985

Well that Premier FEF I got a couple months ago is fully functional. It came to me with no worm shaft, motor mount, motor, flywheel, or wiring. I added all the missing parts, upgraded the motor to a ball bearing 9234 Pittman, and added a PS3 steam kit. I modified the sound file with the whistle from the just released Premier Big Boy. Came out pretty damn nice.


----------



## Millstonemike

lou1985 said:


> ... came out pretty damn nice.


It sure did 👍


----------



## lou1985

Runs well at the front of a train as well. The Pittman 9234 ball bearing motor I used was for some kind of medical equipment originally. Over built and lots of torque. Runs smoothly all the way down to 1-2 scale MPH.


----------



## Millstonemike

lou1985 said:


> Runs well ...


Impressive rebuild.


----------



## IAIS513

I'm not as ambitious as some of the rest of you. But this weekend I was going through my shelves and found this Weaver hopper already painted and some Champ Milwaukee 2-bay hopper decals. I don't remember buying the decals or the car but they kept me busy for an hour or so and now I have a new car for the layout.


----------



## Dave NYC 1962

Still a work in progress, but I’m building a laser kit NYC series 19000 caboose N scale kit from American Model Builders.


----------



## 86TA355SR

lou1985 said:


> Runs well at the front of a train as well. The Pittman 9234 ball bearing motor I used was for some kind of medical equipment originally. Over built and lots of torque. Runs smoothly all the way down to 1-2 scale MPH.


I’ll keep this in mind when I replace open frame motors.

Impressive work. I’ve enjoyed all your builds and checked out your YT channel, you’re very talented.

I always liked the MTH FEF despite a few of the inaccuracies. Nice model.


----------



## N5CJONNY

Looking great Dave. Another N scale modeler.


----------



## Dave NYC 1962

N5CJONNY said:


> Looking great Dave. Another N scale modeler.


Thanks, my first one - a lot harder than I thought!


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> I’ll keep this in mind when I replace open frame motors.
> 
> Impressive work. I’ve enjoyed all your builds and checked out your YT channel, you’re very talented.
> 
> I always liked the MTH FEF despite a few of the inaccuracies. Nice model.


Thanks. 

The locomotive is pretty spot on, minus the missing smoke deflector supports, it's the FEF tender that's the big issue. MTH used the same tender from their Challenger/Big Boy models behind it. The tender is close but too tall and not curved enough on the top, plus has the wrong oil hatch arrangement. If I can find a Lionel FEF tender shell cheap enough one day I will probably swap it out.


----------



## machinist

Good Evening Everyone,

Yinz are all doing some good looking projects/modeling and it's fun to see the different ideas/techniques that are used. Sometimes the bulb lights up and I wonder why I didn't think of that.

Here is my latest finished detailing/paint project, a Union Railroad shorty bay window caboose in the colors that were used in the 50's and 60's. The basic caboose was scratch built by Malcolm Byrd(the Caboose Track on Facebook). I added the end ladders and the roofwalks which were modified from a K-Line parts caboose that I had laying around from another project. I masked off the caboose in various stages while painting. I used all Krylon spray can paint-Sunflower yellow satin, black satin, and metallic aluminum. I hand painted the yellow ladder steps/grab irons(PITA). The Union letters and the C-46 numbers were individually applied using Woodland Scenics black Roman dry transfers. The round URR logos are decals that were given to me by my friend Dave Minarik of Mercer Junction. For finishing and to seal the transfers/decals, the whole caboose was then given several coats of spray can Krylon low odor clear latex matte paint. Window glazing was done using K&S .015" clear sheet and is held in place with ZAP canopy glue. The trucks are Atlas O friction bearing caboose trucks.


----------



## MichaelE

In the HO camp (since we don't have our own thread) I have once again repaired my ACME Br.120 drivetrain.

A month or more ago I installed a fabricated driveshaft I made from plastic sprue and a couple of short pins and installed it. It was running fine for a couple of hours and once again something happened and that truck was no longer proving motive power for the locomotive.

I gave up for awhile out of frustration and parked it at the engine service facility.

After opening it back up last week I discovered both my repaired driveshaft and the fabricated driveshafts were still intact. This time, it was the driveshaft cup on the gear head that had shattered into no less than four pieces. It of course dropped the driveshaft and ceased to function. I started picking out the shattered parts and removed the remaining piece of the driveshaft cup.

I thought about how in heck I was ever going to fabricate this part so that it would actually run, let alone fit.

The BR.151 that is having truck problems was a perfect candidate for donating parts since I have a new model coming today to replace it.

I removed the driveshaft cup from the motor end on the Br.151 and took some measurements. I found that it fit on the gear head of the Br.120 perfectly. The driveshaft length was also good for the new cup so I greased and reassembled the locomotive and tested it out.

It was a bit 'growly' at first and upon starting and stopping it would slightly jerk a bit; not a start and stop jerk, just an uneven start and stop. Once running though it did smooth out. After running for about four hours these problems disappeared. I don't know why or how, unless the parts just needed to seat and work out tolerances by running it.

I am happy to say that my BR.120 is running as new once more. This is the third repair to this drive train and I hope it lasts. I have about six hours now on the repair and is still running as new. (knock-knock-knock). We'll see how this afternoon's session goes.


----------



## lou1985

This finally came in Christmas Eve after disappearing in a USPS black hole for 3 weeks. Got it running today. Came with no boards, minimal wiring, no motor, and no driveshaft. Otherwise mint. The only wiring in the locomotive were the 10 pin connectors on each end of the wireless drawbar. I ended up combining a spare PS2 3V harness from a Railking 2-8-0 with what was left of the Yellowstone harness. It was a bit of a PITA, and took awhile, but it works. I installed a ball bearing 9434 Pittman in the locomotive and a PS32 board in the tender. It runs well and is massive. It's larger than my Premier AC6 Cab Forward and has less than 1/4" clearance in several spots around my layout. So no more articulateds for me....


----------



## Norton

Another NYC 19000 caboose in progress. This is by Mullet River and the most challenging kit I have ever worked on. Years ago I built an AMB SP caboose in HO. That was when the only option was a brass model. Of course right after I started that one Walthers started cranking theirs out in even better detail.
I plan to decorate this one like the one located at our local RR museum so it will have the late lettering and yellow grabs like Dave's.





































Pete


----------



## lou1985

Finished my ATSF 5001 class Texas project. Got the flip stack my friend made installed along with some footboards for the O scale fireman to climb up and operate it. Flip stack operates as well. I used a PS2 3V board in the locomotive because I created a sound file I liked for my factory PS2 3V 5011 class Texas and used it in this locomotive as well. No need to use a PS32 board for a PS2 sound file when I had a brand new PS2 3V board sitting around. Motor is a ball bearing/rare earth magnet 9234 Pittman. It's very torquey. In combination with the gearing and driver size it'll run smoothly all the way down to 1 scale MPH under DCS. My other PS2 and PS3 steam locomotives won't run below 2-3 scale MPH without some stutter, but this thing is smooth as glass.


----------



## Magic

It came out great, good job.
Sounds good also.

Magic


----------



## BigGRacing

Well done, superb craftsmanship on the engines and cabooses !


----------



## 86TA355SR

Lou,

You hit pay dirt finding a modeler to make a stack for you. I've been searching for someone to make Union Pacific Sweeny stacks for several projects. I may end up buying a lathe and making my own.

Here are some 2R kits I've been building. The Intermountain kits are plentiful and cheap-I add metal wheelsets for operating, but the plastic kit wheels are standard.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Adding a baffle to that speaker will give you a nice sound quality boost, not to mention more volume.


----------



## IAIS513

86TA355SR said:


> Lou,
> 
> You hit pay dirt finding a modeler to make a stack for you. I've been searching for someone to make Union Pacific Sweeny stacks for several projects. I may end up buying a lathe and making my own.
> 
> Here are some 2R kits I've been building. The Intermountain kits are plentiful and cheap-I add metal wheelsets for operating, but the plastic kit wheels are standard.
> 
> View attachment 554120
> 
> View attachment 554121


I love these kits! In the last year I've assembled four of them and have three more in the queue. I use Weaver trucks and couplers instead of assembling the trucks supplied. Luckily I just scored a bunch of them recently. 

I prefer the Meat Packing themed cars but have a few PFE cars and others. 

James


----------



## Norton

Another fan of Intermountain. They pretty much made brass rolling stock obsolete. I model SP steam era in HO and have many dozens HO PFE Intermountain cars.

Pete


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Lou,
> 
> You hit pay dirt finding a modeler to make a stack for you. I've been searching for someone to make Union Pacific Sweeny stacks for several projects. I may end up buying a lathe and making my own.


Best part was my friend made the stack for the cost of materials. He has a lathe and was just interested in seeing if he could make it. He did mention it as a PITA, especially the hinge construction. 



gunrunnerjohn said:


> Adding a baffle to that speaker will give you a nice sound quality boost, not to mention more volume.
> 
> View attachment 554128


I've got a cardboard shipping tube I usually use to make baffles. I just glue a piece of styrene to the top to seal it. I just haven't done it yet, but I'll get around to it. I do add baffles on my other builds. Just got lazy here and decided to add it later.


----------



## IAIS513

Here are couple of covered hoppers I finished over the weekend. 

1. Monfort Feed Lots. This is a Weaver PS-2 4740 that I made all the decals but the reporting marks and numbers.










2. Rock Island. This is a MTH PS-2 4427. The decals for the Rock Island Speed Letter I had made a number of years ago for some boxcars I planned to do. (I had white and black versions made at the time.) All the car data are custom made decals by me. My plan is to make a few more of these as I get time, but next is a Pillsbury 4740 PS-2









James


----------



## Norton

James, great work on the decals. What are you using for decal paper and what kind of printer do you use? I tried making my own once using Walthers paper and An HP inkjet printer with very poor results.

Pete


----------



## IAIS513

Norton said:


> James, great work on the decals. What are you using for decal paper and what kind of printer do you use? I tried making my own once using Walthers paper and An HP inkjet printer with very poor results.
> 
> Pete


Pete

For these cars I used clear decal paper I purchased on Amazon, it was nothing special. In the past I've used Testors but it's been hard to find recently. I've always used an HP inkjet printer with no issues, currently we have a HP Envy. Inkjets are better for dark colors, yellows and lighter colors are not saturated enough. A higher end printer might do better. When I've wanted to print lighter colors, I print them on white decal paper and spend a lot of time trimming them out. 

The one thing I have learned is to use the Testors Decal Bonder, I've not had luck using any other clear over spray. For the cheaper decal paper, like I used for these cars, I needed to spray them twice. Otherwise the colors washed off the paper during application. 

James


----------



## Norton

Sound like decal bonder is a key ingredient. I will get some along with some other paper. Thanks for the tips.

Pete


----------



## Millstonemike

IAIS513 said:


> .... Inkjets are better for dark colors, yellows and lighter colors are not saturated enough. A higher end printer might do better. ...
> 
> James


I presume you realize their are settings to control the amount of ink laid down by the printer (paper type, print quality, etc.).


----------



## BigGRacing

Well one positive for me is I got my old Hudson working yesterday. I had another old steam engine with a missing front dome plate and I took a screw out of one of its drivers. Not sure if it’s going to hold in the broken bushing, but it is working at least now. Ran it all day today.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Fedex office/print stores will print decal sheets. They require decal film for laser jet printers. The high end printers they use are better than home printers. Be forewarned-it’s not cheap, but if you have an original, hard to find decal or sheet, such as many old Microscale sets that are irreplaceable, you can get a “copy” to use and keep the original. In my case, I needed several sets.

Microsol used to sell liquid decal Film. It prevenTed old decals from coming apart when wet. Works perfect on home made decals Too. I still use it, apply with a brush or air brush to decal sheets.


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## Krieglok

86T, the decal idea sounds interesting. I am looking for Erie O scale steam engine decals. They are made in HO but not O. I am thinking they could be scaled up from the Microscale HO set. Would the printer, FedEx need a true color copy to work from or could they use black and white diagrams and print the proper color for the decals? In this case it would be a deep yellow...

I’ve been using K4 decals for freight cars. Some are great but some are a bit thin and not quite opaque. I did this Erie 40’ boxcar repainted from a MTH Premier York commemorative car. The decals were a bit thin and the car ended up having a pre-weathered appearance...

Tom


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## 86TA355SR

K,
A true color copy would work best. If black and white, they’d need to do some experimenting-They can match any color shade if you have an example or original.

in my case, I just wanted a copy of an original so they scanned and printed it.


----------



## lou1985

I picked up my 4th MTH Premier Santa Fe 3460 class Hudson back in October. It was mint but missing boards and the motor. All wiring was there. I installed a ball bearing, rare earth magnet, 9234 Pittman. I tracked down a set of PS3 boiler and tender boards and installed them today. It's fully functional and runs very well.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Lou,
Your work is always impressive, great job once again!


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Lou,
> Your work is always impressive, great job once again!


Thanks. That was my last non-functional locomotive, so I'm currently out of projects at this time. I did 6 locomotives this past year, so I think I'll slow down a bit. I'll pick up something else to fix or modify this year at some point though more than likely.


----------



## Big Ed

lou1985 said:


> Thanks. That was my last non-functional locomotive, so I'm currently out of projects at this time. I did 6 locomotives this past year, so I think I'll slow down a bit. I'll pick up something else to fix or modify this year at some point though more than likely.


Cough, cough, cough.....does it smoke?


----------



## lou1985

Latest project was a motor swap on my brand new (2019) Legacy ATSF Northern. These have a tendency to nuke the smoke units because of a improperly placed thermistor. While I was in the locomotive correcting the position of the thermistor on both smoke units I decided to further void the warranty by removing the crappy Canon motor and replacing it with a Pittman 9433. All my Premier steam locomotives have Pittman motors (9234 or 9434s) so I wanted to make the motor in this Legacy Northern at least as good. Runs great as well.


----------



## Krieglok

A couple new repaint projects I just completed. Both are Weaver cars stripped and repainted with Scalecoat II paint. They are decaled with K4 decal sets. I added metal trucks and couplers in addition to interior weights, so they are nicely weighted...

Tom


----------



## Norton

Beautiful work again Tom. Looks like K4 is expanding their line. What did you use to strip the Weaver cars?

Pete


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## Krieglok

Thanks Pete.

I used 70% isopropyl alcohol On the steel car. It was painted for some weird Christmas/radio DJ scheme. I picked up four of them for $20. No trucks, but they stripped easily.

The wood car was undecorated to begin with.

I am corresponding with K-4 now about doing some Arcade and Attica decals. We are looking into doing an A&A 40‘ Boxcar in the later baby blue scheme...

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

Car shop is busy.

Doing a 40’ steel boxcar and a 40’ outside braced boxcar…decals next.

Stripping a gondola that will eventually be a WAG car if I can get the decals to fit.

The Cambria and Indiana hopper is waiting for a dull coat finish and then reassembly.

Tom


----------



## machinist

Nice work Tom. I've also used the K4 decals. My experience s that their decals need to be applied to a gloss surface-I tried applying them to a satin surface and they didn't look to good as they had the silvery background. Another company that has decals I've used with good results is CMR Products. They have quite a variety including more modern RR roadnames.

A question. When using the Scalecoat paint, are you using their primer first before applying the color coat?


----------



## Krieglok

Hi Nick.

I give the cars a coat of gloss finish before I decal with K4 products. It seems to get rid of the silvering. The satin finish of the Scalecoat paint is iffy when applying decals. I also use Walthers Solvaset. Even applying decals to the satin finish, I use the Solvaset under the decal when I apply it. I have had good results with that.

I started using Tamiya grey primer on my projects. It makes a big difference, giving a uniform finish to the plastic before applying the Scalecoat II.

I used CMR a decals on my locomotives, mainly my Bethlehem Steel railroad repaints. They are good decals too. They offer roads K4 doesn’t sell. I also use Tichy but they can be a bit temperamental and require a bit of effort to get the looking good.

Tom


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## Norton

Just looked at CMR for the first time. Impressive what they have for the (local to me) roads. I was surprised to see they also do Union Pacific. When I was looking for decals for my FEF I was told by two custom makers that UP licensing requirements were a hassle they didn’t want to deal with.

Pete


----------



## machinist

Good Morning Tom,

Thanks for the info. I also use the Solvaset for getting the decals to settle into place. I'll try the Tamiya primer on a couple of undecorated Weaver hoppers I'll be custom painting/lettering in the future.


----------



## Krieglok

Nick,

I do encounter difficulties now and then. I am figuring that I need to use Tamyia primer with Scalecoat II paint and Scalecoat II gloss coating in that order to get decals to set well.

I used some Humbrol gloss finish and started decaling a boxcar in an Ann Arbor scheme. The decals seemed to have an odd reaction to the Humbrol gloss. I am going to let them set up and then hit them with a gloss finish and see if that fixes the problem. Otherwise, I strip the car again and start over!

Tom


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## BillTrzaskus

Started to build a group of 7, 4-wheel ingot buggies for my layout. I used old Lionel 4 wheel bobber cabooses, cut off the end platforms. Then I shortened them to about 8-10 scale feet by removing the center section and splicing them back together. A piece of 0.040X.125 inch strip styrene was added to each side in the indents to stiffen the body. 








I then traded out the stock Lionel wheels with wheels from an S gauge car. This put the car at the right height for KADEE 804's or 805 couplers even with the lobster claws on a locomotive. 
















Next I need to attach some 1/2 ounce wheel weight from Harbor Freight to the deck on top. Then fill in the spaces between the weights to make a flat surface for the ingot mold, and extend the sides down to cover most of the wheel bearings. I want to bring up the weight to about 3-4 ounces. 
This is a work in progress and there are no specific prototypes for my cars, this is totally a freelance project.
I'll post more pictures as I progress in this build.


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## 86TA355SR

That’s really cool, great project/idea!


----------



## BillTrzaskus

86TA355SR said:


> That’s really cool, great project/idea!


Thank you. I'm trying to model a 1950's Era small steel mill. Right now I have an ore boat that I scratch built, with its accompanied dock and ore pile and a Slag dump. I also am finishing up an electric arc furnace building and annex and will start to build a hot rolling mill and ingot stripper building.


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## Don F

Great project!


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## Norton

I had to check out my book of the South Buffalo RR which served the Lackawanna, NY Bethlehem Steel plant. Lo and behold a picture of ingot cars. Looks like you nailed them. In this case the tracks that ran inside some of the buildings were narrow gauge. The picture was taken inside the building where the molds were being removed from the ingots. I would post the picture but believe there are copyright issues. Neat project.

Pete


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## BillTrzaskus

Thank you for the compliment. I thought of building them using S gauge as a narrow gauge track., but then I'd have to figure out how to to get more trackage into my layout. Besides, I already have a Lionel Plymouth diesel with KADEE type couplers and also 2 Lionel 0-6-0T tank locomotives, more than enough to pull these ingot buggies.


----------



## BillTrzaskus

BillTrzaskus said:


> Thank you for the compliment. I thought of building them using S gauge as a narrow gauge track., but then I'd have to figure out how to to get more trackage into my layout. Besides, I already have a Lionel Plymouth diesel with KADEE type couplers and also 2 Lionel 0-6-0T tank locomotives, more than enough to pull these ingot buggies.


Here's are a couple of pictures of my progress on the ingot cars. I still need to put some cosiderable weight in them as theyonly weigh about one ounce. I'm putting 2 ounces on top and 1-1.5 ounces on the underframe. 















Hope you like them.


----------



## Krieglok

Cool looking ingot buggies. The real molds were made of some concrete mixture I believe.
My brother’s father in law, worked at Shenango Ingot Molds in Lackawanna, adjacent to the Bethlehem Steel plant. They made the molds for BS. I may have pics of the buggies they used.

Doing a steel mill in O scale is quite an undertaking. It would be difficult to do one in N scale, let alone O scale!

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

I finished two more cars today.

The Ann Arbor car is a MTH commemorative car I stripped, repainted and lettered with a K4 decal set. I replaced the original roller bearing trucks with friction bearing trucks…










The yellow OB car is a Weaver product which started life as a 2 rail undecorated car. I painted it and installed Weaver 3rail diecast sprung trucks underneath. I lettered it for the Wichita North Western Railroad, using a K4 decal set…










Tom


----------



## BillTrzaskus

Krieglok said:


> Cool looking ingot buggies. The real molds were made of some concrete mixture I believe.
> My brother’s father in law, worked at Shenango Ingot Molds in Lackawanna, adjacent to the Bethlehem Steel plant. They made the molds for BS. I may have pics of the buggies they used.
> 
> Doing a steel mill in O scale is quite an undertaking. It would be difficult to do one in N scale, let alone O scale!
> 
> Tom


A few more pics. I added 2 & 1/2 ounces of weight to the underside, brings them up to 3 &1/2 -4 ounces. When using the Harbor Freight truck weights, smack them with a hammer to flatten them . Installed KADEE 805'S or 806's, whichever I had on hand. I made a deck of 0.030 styrene whith nubs over the couplers. On the prototype those nubs are there to protect the couplers from being welded together in case of a spill. A couple of details are next, a fillet around the deck to soften the edges, and bearing caps on the sides.
























When they're all finished, then a trip to the paint shop.
Enjoy!


----------



## Krieglok

Started a new paint job today.

It is a Weaver gondola I stripped and painted. It is currently being decaled for the Wellsville, Addison and Galeton Railroad. 

Just waiting for the decals to set between applications of Solvaset..

Tom


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## Magic

That's some very good decal work.  

Magic


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## Krieglok

Thanks Magic!

Sometimes it is tedious and there is always some minor flaw that jumps out at me. In the long run, it is rewarding…

Tom


----------



## machinist

Tom,

Any of the cars with ribs or outside bracing are more interesting but sure require patience to slice & dice all the decals and apply them evenly-nice work!


----------



## machinist

Bill,

Nice project with the ingot buggies. Back in the 70's/early 80's when I worked at US Steel's Homestead Works, our plant used buggies and ingot molds that were a bit different than yours. While the plant is long razed and gone(except for a couple historic buildings), there are some artifacts scattered throughout the local area. One of the ingot buggies is on display in the town of Homestead at the end of the Homestead High Level Bridge(now the Homestead Grays Bridge). It is a 30 inch narrow gauge with the 4 axles riding on internal bronze bushings. We had our own internal plant railroad, both standard gauge and 30 inch narrow gauge. We called the narrow gauge engines "dinky's" and were just about all remotely controlled by the operator. Those engines did most of the ingot buggy movements. Here's a couple shots of the buggy on display


----------



## Krieglok

machinist said:


> Tom,
> 
> Any of the cars with ribs or outside bracing are more interesting but sure require patience to slice & dice all the decals and apply them evenly-nice work!


Yes! The K4 decals come “pre-separated” with the wording broken up to fit around the braces. K4 likely based their sectioning on a Atlas OB car. The decals don’t work on Weaver OB cars, as the brace pattern is different. They require further splitting to get them to fit well between the brace.

Here is an Atlas car on top, compared to a Weaver car below. The ribs are different in number and size…



















Tom


----------



## Krieglok

Finished the WAG gondola. Ready to haul hides and carcasses for the tanning businesses…

Tom


----------



## lou1985

Nice job. Decal film seems to be hidden quite well. Are you trimming close to the lettering or do the decals you're using have the film close to the lettering (a la Microscale)?


----------



## Krieglok

Thank you Lou. That means a lot coming from you!

The WAG gondola took quite a bit of trimming (See the debris pile in the photo below). The Tichy decals are one solid sheet, so there is much cutting. Trimming close is definitely a technique that makes for better looking paint jobs.










The K4 decals are the same, requiring trimming. It makes such a difference in the long run…

Tom


----------



## Norton

Krieglok said:


> Finished the WAG gondola. Ready to haul hides and carcasses for the tanning businesses…
> 
> Tom
> 
> View attachment 560273
> 
> 
> View attachment 560274


Great job again Tom. I have been to all the places on the WAG route and can’t recall any evidence that line ever existed. Hard to believe it could cross those mountains in Northern PA. Been by the old tanning plant in Westfield. For a time it was being used for something else but it was abandoned last time through. Didn’t realize there was another plant in Elkland either.

Pete


----------



## Krieglok

Thanks Pete.

The WAG was originally the Buffalo and Susquehanna Railroad. The B&S was absorbed by the B&O during the depression and then the B&O abandoned the line in the 50’s. The WAG took over what was left basically, as a entity of the Salzburg brothers holdings. They were known for running a Centercab GE locomotive originally built for Ford Motor Company and then using Ex SP F units for motive power. The railroad road was abandoned and ripped up in the early 70’s.

Many stations survived. The corporate headquarters in Galeton was just torn down recently. There is a great book called “The B&S” by Paul Pietrak. It has been out of print for years, but it is often found on eBay. I highly recommend it!

Tom


----------



## Norton

Thanks Tom. I will check it out. Maybe I can ride some of the old roadbed on my dual sport If I can find it.
Pete


----------



## Krieglok

Much of it in PA, like Newfield Jct, where the interchanged with the C&PA, are accessible but on private land. The land owners usually allow people to explore though…

In New York, I am not sure what remains other than the original roadbed of the B&S Buffalo Line that was abandoned in 1916. The Arcade and Attica uses some of the original B&S alignment too..

Here is a Facebook group that has interesting WAG content…









Wellsville, Addison & Galeton Railroad | Facebook


An open forum for sharing photos, information and memories of the Wellsville, Addison & Galeton, Coudersport & Port Allegany and predecessor companies.




www.facebook.com





Tom


----------



## lou1985

Krieglok said:


> Thank you Lou. That means a lot coming from you!
> 
> The WAG gondola took quite a bit of trimming (See the debris pile in the photo below). The Tichy decals are one solid sheet, so there is much cutting. Trimming close is definitely a technique that makes for better looking paint jobs.
> 
> View attachment 560290
> 
> 
> The K4 decals are the same, requiring trimming. It makes such a difference in the long run…
> 
> Tom


You're doing a great job with the decal trimming. I do like Microscale's decals as they tend to have the film tight around the lettering, but they obviously don't make all the decals one could want. It's tedious to trim close to the decals, but it really pays off in the end. Laying down a nice, smooth, finish is also key to hiding decal film. Seems like you've doing a great job. I've noticed a dearth of 40' boxcars decorated in the plain brown Southern Pacific scheme (everything seems to be Overnight service cars) so I'll have to start picking up some cheap Weaver cars and painting my own. Well after I finally start on my AT&SF Mikado project.

Something I've found is you don't have to gloss clear and entire model before decaling sometimes. If the area I'm decaling is smooth (i.e. not a wood sided car) and the paint I'm using is flat or satin I'll actually gently polish the area I'm decaling with Meguiar's auto polish to give it a sheen. Then decal, Microsol/Microset, and flat or satin clear the entire model. That results in less paint layers and more details coming through, with no visible decal film. The ATSF 20K tender was satin black. I just polished the areas where the decals were going, applied decals (Microscale), then Microsol, then flat clear. Decal film is invisible.


----------



## Krieglok

Wow, a great technique! I have an occasional misfire and I end up stripping the car and starting over. The polishing idea sounds like a good idea. I will definitely try it.

As far as boxcars, I have been buying Weaver cars painted for various commemorative events that no body wants. I recently picked up five of them for $20. They only issue is that they don’t have trucks. I pick up the MTH Weaver pattern trucks when I find them.

MTH premier boxcars are another good source. Look for York commemorative cars or Seminar cars. They are usually pretty cheap, Like $15 on eBay, and have diecast trucks. Again, not to many people want them. I usually swap out the roller bearing trucks for friction bearing trucks depending on the era car I am doing…

Tom


----------



## lou1985

Krieglok said:


> Wow, a great technique! I have an occasional misfire and I end up stripping the car and starting over. The polishing idea sounds like a good idea. I will definitely try it.
> 
> As far as boxcars, I have been buying Weaver cars painted for various commemorative events that no body wants. I recently picked up five of them for $20. They only issue is that they don’t have trucks. I pick up the MTH Weaver pattern trucks when I find them.
> 
> MTH premier boxcars are another good source. Look for York commemorative cars or Seminar cars. They are usually pretty cheap, Like $15 on eBay, and have diecast trucks. Again, not to many people want them. I usually swap out the roller bearing trucks for friction bearing trucks depending on the era car I am doing…
> 
> Tom


It works well. The only thing to remember is that you are removing a little bit of paint when polishing (you'll see some come off on the towel) so don't get aggressive. Just a light touch to smooth the paint and get a sheen.

I've been thinking of grabbing the exact cars you're talking about. Just cheap, scale, boxcars painted up for fake things/events and decal away. I'm kinda waiting for train shows to start back up again by me so I can grab the $10-20 cars without having to pay shipping, to keep the cost even lower. What are you using to strip the paint off of plastic cars? I've used Purple Power in the past but it takes about a day to do it's job. Nice thing about die cast stuff is that I can just brush on aircraft stripper and the paint is completely off in 15 minutes.


----------



## Krieglok

On the plastic, I use 90% isopropyl alcohol. I let it soak for a couple days. Some paint, like the type on MTH cars is a bit more stubborn. I use the Scalecoat "wash away" stripper. It is a brake fluid type that Scalecoat makes. 

I haven't tried purple power yet. I am usually slow with my work, so I don't mind waiting a couple days for everything to loosen up..

Tom


----------



## BillTrzaskus

BillTrzaskus said:


> A few more pics. I added 2 & 1/2 ounces of weight to the underside, brings them up to 3 &1/2 -4 ounces. When using the Harbor Freight truck weights, smack them with a hammer to flatten them . Installed KADEE 805'S or 806's, whichever I had on hand. I made a deck of 0.030 styrene whith nubs over the couplers. On the prototype those nubs are there to protect the couplers from being welded together in case of a spill. A couple of details are next, a fillet around the deck to soften the edges, and bearing caps on the sides.
> View attachment 560038
> ì
> View attachment 560039
> 
> View attachment 560040
> 
> When they're all finished, then a trip to the paint shop.
> Enjoy!


Since I was on this kit bashing stint, I decided to build a model that I saw in O SCALE TRAINS, issue 88, the 2 rail magazine. Thomas Yorke gave plans and a build of an idler car, one that was coupled between hot metal cars so steel workers could cross from one side of the train to the other safely. He did it in 2 rail so I tried my luck in 3 rail. I started with an Atlas 4 wheel bobber caboose, cut it in half and rejoined the sections together with the stairs in the center. 








I then built out the sides with strip styrene, added a deck and ends, gave it some extra weight, and added a pair of Weaver couplers. On the deck I emulated Yorke's model by adding 4 pieces of styrene to look like the tops of weight boxes with lifting rings. The handrails are 1mm brass wire bent to shape. Next stop is the paint shop along with the ingot buggies. 
















Hope you like them.


----------



## Krieglok

Interesting car that one would never think of. Nice workmanship on the car.

The glowing slag pit looks great too!

Tom


----------



## Norton

Very clever butting the caboose ends together.

Pete


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Cool kit-bash, it'll look great all painted up.


----------



## BillTrzaskus

Thank you much. I appreciate the good comments.


----------



## Krieglok

Working on my tank train. I am piecing together the wood blocking used under each tank. Lots of wood work, assembling the side braces and scribing and staining the pieces.










I have amassed 10 M4 Shermans from Corgi. The paint jobs are assorted, but they are all going to be repainted as factory fresh Olive Drab with only serial numbers painted on the hull sides. I need to add canvas covers to the gun muzzles and machine gun ports. The work will result in a five car train of tanks being delivered to the Quartermaster Corp.










Tanks were shipped on 40’ flats and 50” flats when available. Each tank was about 33 tons. The typical 40’ flat car was made to carry 55 tons. 50’ flats had a higher capacity. Photo evidence shows both size cars used for shipping tanks. There is quite a bit of discussion about specific capacities and what was actually allowed to be loaded. The B&M 33000 series flat cars were actually allowed to carry 132000 lbs, making them good for the 132000 lbs of two Sherman tanks when loaded. Wartime allowances….

Here we see 60 tons of M3 Lee tanks on a 50 ton flat car…a bit squashed!










More to follow…

Tom


----------



## BillTrzaskus

BillTrzaskus said:


> Since I was on this kit bashing stint, I decided to build a model that I saw in O SCALE TRAINS, issue 88, the 2 rail magazine. Thomas Yorke gave plans and a build of an idler car, one that was coupled between hot metal cars so steel workers could cross from one side of the train to the other safely. He did it in 2 rail so I tried my luck in 3 rail. I started with an Atlas 4 wheel bobber caboose, cut it in half and rejoined the sections together with the stairs in the center.
> View attachment 560736
> 
> I then built out the sides with strip styrene, added a deck and ends, gave it some extra weight, and added a pair of Weaver couplers. On the deck I emulated Yorke's model by adding 4 pieces of styrene to look like the tops of weight boxes with lifting rings. The handrails are 1mm brass wire bent to shape. Next stop is the paint shop along with the ingot buggies.
> View attachment 560737
> 
> View attachment 560738
> 
> Hope you like them.





BillTrzaskus said:


> Since I was on this kit bashing stint, I decided to build a model that I saw in O SCALE TRAINS, issue 88, the 2 rail magazine. Thomas Yorke gave plans and a build of an idler car, one that was coupled between hot metal cars so steel workers could cross from one side of the train to the other safely. He did it in 2 rail so I tried my luck in 3 rail. I started with an Atlas 4 wheel bobber caboose, cut it in half and rejoined the sections together with the stairs in the center.
> View attachment 560736
> 
> I then built out the sides with strip styrene, added a deck and ends, gave it some extra weight, and added a pair of Weaver couplers. On the deck I emulated Yorke's model by adding 4 pieces of styrene to look like the tops of weight boxes with lifting rings. The handrails are 1mm brass wire bent to shape. Next stop is the paint shop along with the ingot buggies.
> View attachment 560737
> 
> View attachment 560738
> 
> Hope you like them.


I finally finished painting the ingot buggies and the idler car.








Here they are in front of my latest building, an electric arc furnace building scales out at 200+'X100'X165' tall. I still need to add an interior and windows to it. I'm waiting for Mr Muffins to resupply their Korber factory windows or else I will need to learn how to scratch build them myself. 








Here is the idler car, it turned out a little redder than I wanted but it's still okay. 








Hope you like them.


----------



## BillTrzaskus

BillTrzaskus said:


> I finally finished painting the ingot buggies and the idler car.
> View attachment 561495
> 
> Here they are in front of my latest building, an electric arc furnace building scales out at 200+'X100'X165' tall. I still need to add an interior and windows to it. I'm waiting for Mr Muffins to resupply their Korber factory windows or else I will need to learn how to scratch build them myself.
> View attachment 561498
> 
> Here is the idler car, it turned out a little redder than I wanted but it's still okay.
> View attachment 561499
> 
> Hope you like them.


In the background is the start of my next building, the ingot stripper with soaking pits and hot slab mill. Not so large as the EAF, and next to it on its right will be a facade of a rolling mill, about the same height as the slab mill but shorter by half. These will have a hardboard base and foam board sides braced by 1/2 inch square wood dowels.


----------



## Krieglok

Cool looking cars, nicely dwarfed by the steel mill structures. They came out wonderfully. The paint and weathering makes them look real.

I like the “weedy” right of way….very prototypical and realistic!

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

Just a quick follow up on my tank train.

I finally finished the 10 Shermans. They were all given a fresh coat of Olive Drab and given US Army serial numbers. In addition, canvas covers were added to the guns, machine gun ports and radio antenna base. They are all Corgi 1:50 tanks.










The next step will involve staining the wood decks of the flat cars and the wood bracing used to secure the tanks.

This is one heavy train!

Tom


----------



## pennwest

Tom, nice job on those tank loads! One suggestion: stain (and weather, if you do that) the flatcar decks but don't stain the blocking wood. Those were made from fresh lumber and often were not re-used for multiple loads. Thanks for telling us the story. By the way, what did you use to simulate the canvas covers?


----------



## DalesParts

Big Jim said:


> Is it too early for a Christmas car project?


Nope!


----------



## Krieglok

pennwest said:


> Tom, nice job on those tank loads! One suggestion: stain (and weather, if you do that) the flatcar decks but don't stain the blocking wood. Those were made from fresh lumber and often were not re-used for multiple loads. Thanks for telling us the story. By the way, what did you use to simulate the canvas covers?


Bob, you are exactly correct! I have been using a lot of photo documentation for my work. The blocking wood will get some line work to simulate the seams in the blocks that are made with multiple pieces of lumber.

The canvas covers are actually blue “paint tape” cut to size and shape. After the covers were applied, I painted them with khaki oil based paint. They solidify nicely and stay put.

Thanks for the kind comments and suggestions!

Tom


----------



## Lehigh74

Krieglok said:


> Just a quick follow up on my tank train.
> 
> I finally finished the 10 Shermans. They were all given a fresh coat of Olive Drab and given US Army serial numbers. In addition, canvas covers were added to the guns, machine gun ports and radio antenna base. They are all Corgi 1:50 tanks.
> 
> This is one heavy train!
> 
> Tom


Yep.

Diecast military vehicle loads make for a heavy train. My military train usually runs between 12 and 15 flatcars and I notice the weight when I pull it along by hand to couple it. A single two motor diesel pulls the train along no problem on a level track, but I haven’t tried it on inclines. Some steamers have a problem getting it started though even on level track.

I measured the weight of a few of my military flat cars to compare it with the NMRA recommended weight for 14” O scale car of 19 oz.

Menards 14” flat car – 9.5 oz

Menards 14” flat car with 2 diecast centurion tacks – 17.5 oz

Menards 14” flat car with 2 halftracks – 21.5 oz

Menards 14” flat car with 2 plastic Tamiya Sherman tanks – 15.5 oz

Menards 14” flat car with 2 Deuce and a half– 20.5 oz



MTH Premier 14” flat car – 14.5 oz

MTH Premier 14” flat car with 2 Wolverine tank destroyers – 26.5 oz

MTH Premier 14” flat car with 2 Solido 105mm howitzers – 24.5 oz

I thought they would all be well over the NMRA recommendation and also found it interesting that the MTH flat cars were much heavier than the Menards cars. I had to weight everything separately because my scale only goes to 18 oz. I thought the vehicles would be heavier too, but when I lifted them, they didn’t seem to have the heft of solid diecast. I suspect that (aside from the canons), the “diecast” models are at least partly made of plastic.

Maybe the Corgi Tanks are all diecast.


----------



## Krieglok

The Corgi tanks I used are all diecast except for the road wheels and tracks. The hulls and turrets are cast metal...

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

My latest paint project. A Weaver 40’ boxcar I stripped and repainted with Scalecoat II. I decaled it with K4 decals…



















I also painted a couple L&NE coal hoppers, again with Scalecoat II and K4 decals…


















Tom


----------



## lou1985

Here's the beginning of turning a Premier USRA Mikado into something resembling an ATSF 3129 class Mikado. It won't be anywhere near exact, but I'm adding/modifying enough of it with some PSC parts to at least give it an ATSF look. I'm attacking the tender first. Preliminary mockups have started.


----------



## Krieglok

Cool. I have a Lionel Texas and Pacific Junior Mikado I did some work on, mainly moving the bell. I wanted to convert the tender from coal to oil. I had no idea where to start. This post about your conversion should be helpful!









Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Always wanted one of these with a disc driver, so today I made the swap.










The finished swap:










Here's some pictures of the process:






































Next I'll move the bell to the boiler and paint. I recently sourced decal so I can finish this project. I may swap to a large tender I picked up also.


----------



## Krieglok

Very handsome locomotive.

I am too chicken to paint brass! Is the engine a certain prototype? The disc driver (Scullin?) certainly adds visual interest to the engine.

Tom


----------



## Norton

Do you have quartering tool? If so which one? I just picked up a NWSL but haven’t had a chance to use it yet. Also an old iron designs for smaller drivers.

Pete


----------



## WITZ 41

Have a lot of work ahead of me. Trucks, glazing, lights, interiors..........


Recently picked up the painted car bodies.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Those are sweet cars, W.! I know you waited a while for these, happy for ya!


----------



## 86TA355SR

Norton said:


> Do you have quartering tool? If so which one? I just picked up a NWSL but haven’t had a chance to use it yet. Also an old iron designs for smaller drivers.
> 
> Pete


Pete, I do, but I didn't need it for this project. I used disc drivers from a different version of this locomotive.

My quartering tool appears to be a home made version, I purchased from a friend who didn't know anything about it.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Been busy building a few Intermountain kits. 

You can find these on the cheap & they make nice models, plus they’re fun to build.

Before:










Finished (I built the PFE Reefer also).


----------



## Krieglok

Nice kits. I have a few Intermountain cars. I bought a couple already built too. I like their tank cars.

I am repainting a set of MTH Madison cars for the Erie railroad. I wanted an older scheme set to go with my K5 Pacific. These are older cars with no interiors, frosted silhouette windows and incandescent bulbs inside. Missing a few details, which are being replaced. They are ex-Santa Fe.

Erie Green Scalecoat II paint with decals from Primemover Decals via the ELHS…

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Haven’t built an IM tank car but will keep watch for one.

Nice paint work on the MTH model. Been using Scalecoat recently, really like it.


----------



## lou1985

Painted a Premier woodside caboose into Rock Island for a friend. Came out pretty decent.


----------



## Krieglok

Thanks 86! I painted the roof after I took the picture. More to follow…

Lou, great work on the caboose. It looks like brass! I like the lighting effects. Sharp.

Two more boxcars for my fleet…
Both MTH commemorative cars I stripped and repainted. The Grand Trunk Western car is Scalecoat II Boxcar Red #3 and the Indiana Harbor Belt car is plain Boxcar red. Both decaled with K4 decals…


















Tom


----------



## Norton

I am impressed with decal work you guys do. Decal film is invisible.
As for kit building, I did quite a few kits during lockdown. I still have quite a few left to do. During my time in HO pretty much every piece of rolling stock and structures were kit built. I would much rather build something that buy it and plop it down on the layout.

Pete


----------



## lou1985

Krieglok said:


> Lou, great work on the caboose. It looks like brass! I like the lighting effects. Sharp.


Is a plastic MTH Premier caboose. It's based on the UP/SP CA-1 design.


----------



## lou1985

Norton said:


> I am impressed with decal work you guys do. Decal film is invisible.
> As for kit building, I did quite a few kits during lockdown. I still have quite a few left to do. During my time in HO pretty much every piece of rolling stock and structures were kit built. I would much rather build something that buy it and plop it down on the layout.
> 
> Pete


I used K4 decals on that Rock Island caboose. I'm not all that impressed. The decals are thick and even after 7 (!) applications of Microsol the decal film didn't completely disappear/snuggle down into the body detail. I usually use Microscale decals because I can make the film completely disappear with proper application and Microsol. The numbers on this tender are Microscale, the "SANTA FE" is factory Lionel printing. The decal film from the Microscale numbers is invisible, even at this angle.


----------



## 86TA355SR

lou1985 said:


> Is a plastic MTH Premier caboose. It's based on the UP/SP CA-1 design.


And what a lovely job MTH did on the CA-1 caboose! Beautiful model. Converted many to 2R & next to my OMI brass CA-1s, it more than holds it’s own. Even better, MTH made several different versions of the road I model.

Pete & Lou,

I use Microset on thin/thick decals (Microscale, Champ) & then Solvaset on thick film. Hardly use Solvaset anymore. I have a theory, no way to prove it, but I believe it’s the gloss I use (Future floor polish, it’s a different brand now). Same bottle for 25+ years and never have paint compatibility, cracking issues, etc many others experience. Plus, you can’t see the ”background“ film ever. Love the “painted“ decal look on a model.


----------



## Krieglok

Here is the first Erie coach I have finished. The painting and decaling was simple. The disassembly and reassembly took the most time. I installed the windows, hung the doors and put the body together. 

I have five more cars to do…two baggage cars, two coaches and an observation car. The observation will be done in the two tone Erie green colors and numbered as one of Erie’s business cars…likely #4.

Here is the finished coach. You may see some water droplets here and there as I just wiped the car down to remove the work dust…

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Tom,

They look very nice, you’re efficient!

Keep us updated as you progress on the other cars.


----------



## Krieglok

Thanks 86!

Second coach started! Also, I have a unlettered Atlas baggage car that is painted green from the factory. It is very close to the Erie green I am using, but just a shade “greener”. I am debating whether I should take it apart and repaint it in the darker Erie green Or just decal it the way it is…

Tom


----------



## machinist

Good Evening Everyone,

Several months back, I started the Lionel paint fiasco thread about the Texas & Pacific 4-6-0 with it's bright mint green boiler paint. My original intention with this engine purchase was to re-letter/re-number it into a Monongahela Railway engine as it had details I was looking for(high mounted headlight, air pump position, bell position, etc). I did not however, plan on repainting the boiler which would involve MUCH extra work. Well, I bit the bullet, got to work and finally several months later I finished up the project.

After separating the boiler/cab from the chassis, I first removed all the factory lettering/numbering from both the engine and tender including the headlight and numberplate on the front of the smokebox. This was done using Cutex nail polish remover(98% acetone) and Q-tips working both gently and quickly and not letting the remover sit on the paint surface too long. With practice, the lettering/numbering can be removed without damaging the base color paint underneath. The boiler itself was a major PITA! I removed all the separately applied brass details(bell, whistle, steam lines, air pump, generator). These items, except for the air pump, were all painted the mint green boiler color. I repainted them satin black and re-installed everything back onto the boiler once the boiler was repainted. The boiler itself required a large chunk of time to mask off all the black/silver areas that were not being repainted.(smokebox, running boards, cab front, steam & sand domes, Pop-off valves shroud and the handrails). I used different widths of both Tamiya and green Frog masking tape along with MR Hobby liquid mask. I sprayed the boiler with rattlecan Tamiya TS78 field gray 2 directly over the Lionel mint green and I was happy with the finish. The paint went on very smooth & even. The cylinder/steam chest area on the chassis that was mint green was sprayed with rattlecan Tamiya TS29 semi gloss black which is a near perfect match for the Lionel black paint. After painting, I re-assembled all the parts. All the lettering/numbering was done using Woodland Scenics RR Roman gold. I'm happy with the result. While the boiler may be still a bit too bright for some, it's a lot better than that Easter egg mint green!

One final thing. The back of the tender shows the coal/water capacity. I didn't forget the letter s on the gal and ton abbreviations. Some railroads occasionally marked tenders this way and the Monongahela was one of them.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Fantastic job! 

I remember that thread after you mentioned it. You do quality work and glad you’re pleased now.

I’m hoping to have a painted locomotive to share late next week. 

Glad to see folks modeling and building stuff!


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Love the change, it looks 1,000% better now!  That Easter Egg color was pretty hideous!


----------



## Millstonemike

Fabulous transformation.


----------



## machinist

Good Evening Everyone,

Guys, thanks for the compliments, I appreciate it. Always a good feeling when lemonade is made from lemons. There's a lot of talented people on this forum and I always enjoy viewing their efforts and picking up their knowledge/little tricks along the way.


----------



## lou1985

Well I managed to turn a MTH Premier USRA Mikado tender into a decent Santa Fe oil fired tender (was originally a Nickle Plate coal tender). Now on to "Santa Fe izing" the locomotive. I'll be adding Santa Fe style number boards, bell, and headlight to it in an effort to make it kinda close to a Santa Fe 3129 class Mikado.


----------



## Krieglok

How did you fabricate the tank top and what detail part did you use for the fill hatch on the oil tank?

Tom


----------



## lou1985

Krieglok said:


> How did you fabricate the tank top and what detail part did you use for the fill hatch on the oil tank?
> 
> Tom


Tank top is some ABS plastic sheet about 1/8" thick. Rivets are Archer rivet decals, handrail is wire, oil fill hatch is a PSC brass part.


----------



## Millstonemike

Nice work on the decals over the rivets. The rivet decals are "3D"?


----------



## lou1985

Millstonemike said:


> Nice work on the decals over the rivets. The rivet decals are "3D"?


 Thanks.

Yes the rivet decals on the top of the tank are 3D. They are resin printed on decal film.


----------



## Krieglok

Archer makes 3D louvers too. I have used them in a couple Diesel engine projects. Great stuff! 

Thanks Lou. I want to convert a T&P Mikado tender to an oil tender...

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

lou1985 said:


> Tank top is some ABS plastic sheet about 1/8" thick. Rivets are Archer rivet decals, handrail is wire, oil fill hatch is a PSC brass part.


Curious-have you ever applied another decal over the Archer rivets? Thanks.


----------



## Krieglok

That’s an interesting question. Lou could probably answer that better than I. Here is a slug unit I kitbashed. I used the Archer louvers on the side of the hood at the ends. I applied them after I painted the hood…

Tom


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Curious-have you ever applied another decal over the Archer rivets? Thanks.


I have not but it is easy to do if you follow the instructions with the rivets. The rivets are designed to go under paint. Basically how you apply them is put primer on the model, apply the rivet decals where you want them, lay your paint over the rivet decals, apply lettering decals, then clear coat everything. So the rivet decals are sealed in before the lettering decals are even applied. The rivet decals will not stick to bare plastic or metal, only to primer or paint. The rivets themselves are actually a dark brown color, so you have to paint over them anyway.


----------



## 86TA355SR

lou1985 said:


> ….. The rivet decals will not stick to bare plastic or metal, only to primer or paint….


That was my next question, thanks!


----------



## Krieglok

Doing some detail upgrading on a older Lionel PA1. The engine is TMCC equipped and the paint scheme for the early Erie is pretty much correct. I wanted a sister for my two tone green Erie PA1.

So far I have installed lift rings, windshield wipers, MU hoses, firecracker antenna, and grab iron in the appropriate spots. Just waiting for the two single chime air horns and some brake pipe hoses to arrive and then all the added stuff get paint…

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Love the added details. 

A great modeler I know stated it best- “…the little details put your mark on a model.”


----------



## machinist

Good Evening Everyone,

Here is look at my latest little project/bash that I just completed. This is the older Menard's auto carrier that originally had the 6 modern Buick sedans mounted. I wanted to use some mid 60's cars that were all from the same model year that would be appropriate for this type of auto carrier. I had previously mounted a group of four 1964 Merc's on another of these carriers bur I wanted to mount six vehicles(same brand but different models) on this one without spending a huge amount of money on the vehicles. Wasn't as easy as I had planned-where have I heard that before-LOL. Finally settled on the 1964 Ford models based on availability & size(length). I played around with different vehicle combinations to get them to fit on the decks lengthwise-wanted to have the Econoline on the bottom deck but it is to tall to fit there. All the vehicles are screwed to the decks. Access holes for the screwdriver were drilled through the bottom deck to be able to reach the screw heads underneath the top deck to fasten the cars there. The Ford signs were printed using photo paper in our inkjet printer and then cut to fit the rectangular panels. I have more $ into the vehicles than the auto carrier itself. One other thing. This sucker is one HEAVY auto carrier-any train with this in it will be a doubleheader or maybe a triple header.

The construction of these auto carriers is interesting. Only the basic chassis/lower frame is plastic. Both decks look like MDF. The entire rest of the car-ends, struts, bracing, and nameboard panels-appear to be made of some type of composite/MDF? and are individual pieces that are glued together. The trucks are so-so. They're all metal with hidden uncouplers(no thumbtack). The wheels/axles are another story. None of the wheels are mounted square on the axles and the car pitches & rolls down the track like a drunken sailor. My other auto carrier isn't like this. I have plenty of spare wheels, so I'll probably end up swapping them out.


----------



## Krieglok

Great looking auto rack! It definitely has that 60s feel to it. I often wondered why “more” scale versions of open auto racks from the 60’s and 70’s were never produced in O scale. The modern, enclosed versions out there just look so sterile.

Great work, Nick.

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

A new strip and paint project that started with a Weaver commemorative boxcar. Disassembled, stripped and painted with Scalecoat II paint. K4 decals were used to finish the car.

The decal placement is odd, as the “New York Central” oval was not centered over the P&LE reporting marks. It bugs me as I don’t know why it was done this way on the real car. The K4 placement diagram was right on. Correct but odd….

Tom


----------



## Lehigh74

I'm always impressed by your paint and decal work. The model looks like a dead ringer for the prototype.


----------



## Krieglok

Thanks Bob!

At this point most of my freight cars are my own custom paint work, except for a number of reefers. As long as the supply of cheap MTH and Weaver cars hold out, I will have more!

Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Krieglok said:


> At this point most of my freight cars are my own custom paint work, except for a number of reefers. As long as the supply of cheap MTH and Weaver cars hold out, I will have more!


You're getting so good at this, maybe I should send you the big box of TCA club cars I bought to repaint.  Got them for $10/ea a few years ago at York, I figured they'd be perfect to make a nice unit train from.


----------



## Krieglok

gunrunnerjohn said:


> You're getting so good at this, maybe I should send you the big box of TCA club cars I bought to repaint.  Got them for $10/ea a few years ago at York, I figured they'd be perfect to make a nice unit train from.


I bought a number of Weaver cars that were painted for some Radio station in PA. Nice 40’ steel cars. The last time, I bought five of them. They are very cheap, but they either had plastic trucks and couplers or no trucks at all. I install metal trucks and couplers for Weaver cars. In the long run, the commemorative MTH cars work out to be cheaper as they come with trucks. It is a hit or miss affair as to whether the trucks are roller bearing or friction. I try to match the vintage of the car with the appropriate style truck..

Tom.


----------



## Krieglok

Wrapping up some projects after waiting for supplies and parts…

A plain Jane DT&I boxcar. It started as a MTH “forum” car. Stripped and painted with Scalecoat II. Decals by K4. 









Then a couple Erie passenger cars. First, an Atlas baggage car. I didn’t repaint it as it came unlettered. The green was pretty close to Erie green so I just decaled and finished it.









Then, another older MTH coach, repainted and lettered for Erie. Both cars have Prime Mover Decals. This is the last of three coaches I painted In Erie.









Finally, my Lionel Erie PA1. I just added lift rings, wipers, grab irons, a antenna and finally two single chime air horns…









Tom


----------



## lou1985

Those look great. What are you using to strip the factory paint on plastic cars?


----------



## Krieglok

Thanks Lou.

I have a couple containers of isopropyl alcohol that the cars rest in, completely submerged. I let them sit for a couple days and they come out clean.

They are pasta containers that are airtight…

Tom


----------



## lou1985

Krieglok said:


> Thanks Lou.
> 
> I have a couple containers of isopropyl alcohol that the cars rest in, completely submerged. I let them sit for a couple days and they come out clean.
> 
> They are pasta containers that are airtight…
> 
> Tom


Does the paint come right off after that? I wish I could hit plastic stuff with paint stripper like I can diecast. Then they would be ready to paint in 15 minutes.


----------



## Krieglok

Pretty much. I have two MTH cars soaking now. After the first day, the paint was loose. I did a light scrub to remove the loose paint. The second day, the paint was totally stripped, with just some light deposits around the grab irons and corrugated ends that come off with a soft tooth brush. I give them three days with this method. 

I tried quicker methods, but they don’t work well for me…

I have used many products and the isopropyl works best for me. I have used the Scalecoat paint remover on some tougher projects. It seems to be similar to brake fluid, at least the smell and texture indicate that…

Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

How about glass bead blasting? I did some cars a few years ago with that and it took the paint off but left even the rivet details, I was pretty surprised.


----------



## Norton

Tom, another fine job on those repaints. Maybe Mr Muffin will be sending stuff to you in the future!
Good to know isopropyl is safe on Weaver and MTH cars. I have only used Simple Green and laundry detergent on plastic cars and its pretty slow like 4 days plus.
I am surprised glass beading doesn’t remove more detail. I only use that on metal items.

As for projects I am just putting three rail trucks on two rail cars. Nothing too exciting at the moment.

Pete


----------



## Bryan Moran

Krieglok said:


> Pretty much. I have two MTH cars soaking now. After the first day, the paint was loose. I did a light scrub to remove the loose paint. The second day, the paint was totally stripped, with just some light deposits around the grab irons and corrugated ends that come off with a soft tooth brush. I give them three days with this method.
> 
> I tried quicker methods, but they don’t work well for me…
> 
> I have used many products and the isopropyl works best for me. I have used the Scalecoat paint remover on some tougher projects. It seems to be similar to brake fluid, at least the smell and texture indicate that…
> 
> Tom


And Isopropyl is cheap. I’ll give it a try when I get my work bench set up. I saw some Rock island hoppers from MTH I wanted but bmartz wants $90 each so I bought a couple cheap NYC hoppers.
Worth a shot. You give us all a bit of confidence.


----------



## Krieglok

Thanks guys.

John, I explored “mechanical“ paint removal but was just too “set up“ intensive and just didn’t fit well with me.

Pete, thanks but my work has become slow and meticulous. I couldn’t keep up with anything more than a few cars a week! The isopropyl works well on MTH paint. Any Weaver cars I have done, require a bit more time to loosen the paint. The Weaver paint can be stubborn, so that is when I use the Scalecoat paint remover. 

I use these containers for soaking 40’ boxcars. I have a larger container for locomotives…









Amazon.com: Komax Biokips Pasta Storage Containers w/Locking Lids (Set of 2) Airtight Food Storage Containers for Pantry - Pasta Containers for Organizing Pantry - Dishwasher Safe Canister Set (11.5 x 3.5 x 4.3) : Home & Kitchen


Amazon.com: Komax Biokips Pasta Storage Containers w/Locking Lids (Set of 2) Airtight Food Storage Containers for Pantry - Pasta Containers for Organizing Pantry - Dishwasher Safe Canister Set (11.5 x 3.5 x 4.3) : Home & Kitchen



www.amazon.com





Bryan, it can be a trial and error process. I have two hoppers I stripped, painted and decaled three times before I was happy with the results…












Basically, use the same brand paint and finishes for the model. I have settled on Scalecoat II spray cans. I do use Tamiya Grey primer, wait a day, then Scalecoat II satin color paint. It takes a good 24 hours to dry. Decaling is done using Microsol decal fluids or Walthers Solvaset. Wait another day, then they are finished with Scalecoat clear satin finish. Another 24 hours and respray the clear coat if the decal edges are still obvious. That’s about it!

Tom


----------



## Millstonemike

Bryan Moran said:


> And Isopropyl is cheap. I’ll give it a try when I get my work bench set up. I saw some Rock island hoppers from MTH I wanted but bmartz wants $90 each so I bought a couple cheap NYC hoppers.
> Worth a shot. You give us all a bit of confidence.


$5 for a1/2 gallon of 91% (two 32-oz bottles) at Walmart online. I ordered it with another item so no additional shipping charges. And, IIRC, no sales tax in NJ on isopropyl alcohol.


----------



## Big Ed

Millstonemike said:


> $5 for a1/2 gallon of 91% (two 32-oz bottles) at Walmart online. I ordered it with another item so no additional shipping charges. And, IIRC, no sales tax in NJ on isopropyl alcohol.


99% Isopropanol is better but more expensive. Only 1% water.
91% is 9% water.
I didn't know that about the tax, my Walmart shows no pickup and no shipping on that?
But the 99% shows free shipping.
I have 2 gallons of 99% left from hauling it. 
I only have 2 shot glasses left of 200 proof ethanol, got to get some more of that. That was non-denatured ethanol in sample bottles. They hold the sample for a few months then pour it into a waste drum. I will have to take a ride and pickup a few more bottles.
I never tried the ethanol to take off paint but for hard to get off glue on things like the remains of a bumper sticker it works great.
If I had more I would test it out on a small piece of painted plastic.
You have to watch the ethanol you can buy, it may be denatured with something that will eat plastics. You can buy it, I see it on Walmart, it is denatured with Normal Propyl Acetate.
The acetate would worry me about using on plastics. There is another with Methanol and Isopropanol used as denaturing. Watch what is in it if you buy any.

I am putting up a vinyl fence, on each post and panel they glue on a 12x12 sticker, on the posts a smaller sticker. Why do they do that!
The smaller stickers leave a glue residue that is hard to get off, the ethanol wiped it off easy. I switched to Isopropanol as I wanted to save my ethanol and it worked but took a little more scrubbing.


----------



## Millstonemike

Big Ed said:


> ...
> I didn't know that about the tax, my Walmart shows no pickup and no shipping on that?
> ...


Odd, here's the web page for the Toms River vicinity. Mine arrived last week. I checked the order, no tax. Must be in NJ's medicinal category of tax free goods.

I bought 91% to rinse off vinegar and/or Evapo-Rust to restore Super-O track. Either needs to be rinsed after the rust removal dunk. In the past, I rinsed some tinplate in water after paint removal. I watched it re-rust right before my eyes. So I'm thinkng the 91% iso rinse will prevent that. And I am leaning towards vinegar to remove oxidation from the outside rails as well as the copper center rail and pins. Evapo-rust won't remove any oxidation from copper.


----------



## lou1985

This showed up today. Premier PS1 ATSF Northern. It's a project for when the weather gets cold. It's going to get some cosmetic upgrades to match my PS3 version, as well as a PS3 steam kit.


----------



## Krieglok

That’s a beautiful engine, Lou. You upgrade the PS1 to PS3? I have picked up a few PS1 engines, electrics and a diesel for kit bashing. Upgrading them might be in their future! I also have a K-Line EP5 I would like to upgrade with ERR components. I need to learn electronics!

Currently, I have a MTH Proto 1 GP7 shell soaking in 91% Isopropyl now. The older paint seems a bit tougher than the more recent paint MTH used.…

Tom


----------



## Big Ed

Millstonemike said:


> Odd, here's the web page for the Toms River vicinity. Mine arrived last week. I checked the order, no tax. Must be in NJ's medicinal category of tax free goods.
> 
> I bought 91% to rinse off vinegar and/or Evapo-Rust to restore Super-O track. Either needs to be rinsed after the rust removal dunk. In the past, I rinsed some tinplate in water after paint removal. I watched it re-rust right before my eyes. So I'm thinkng the 91% iso rinse will prevent that. And I am leaning towards vinegar to remove oxidation from the outside rails as well as the copper center rail and pins. Evapo-rust won't remove any oxidation from copper.
> 
> View attachment 564864



Vinegar, I hate that smell.
Used to haul Acetic Acid 100%, talk about the stink !
Vinegar has many uses.


----------



## Big Ed

Krieglok said:


> That’s a beautiful engine, Lou. You upgrade the PS1 to PS3? I have picked up a few PS1 engines, electrics and a diesel for kit bashing. Upgrading them might be in their future! I also have a K-Line EP5 I would like to upgrade with ERR components. I need to learn electronics!
> 
> Currently, I have a MTH Proto 1 GP7 shell soaking in 91% Isopropyl now. The older paint seems a bit tougher than the more recent paint MTH used.…
> 
> Tom


Some take to weathering a Locomotive like his.
I don't think I could. 
Or even pay someone who is good at weathering to do it.

Does it takes a lot of IPA to do the shell? 
A gallon or 2? Need a large container to fill?
Do you reuse the old IPA?


----------



## lou1985

Krieglok said:


> That’s a beautiful engine, Lou. You upgrade the PS1 to PS3? I have picked up a few PS1 engines, electrics and a diesel for kit bashing. Upgrading them might be in their future! I also have a K-Line EP5 I would like to upgrade with ERR components. I need to learn electronics!
> 
> Currently, I have a MTH Proto 1 GP7 shell soaking in 91% Isopropyl now. The older paint seems a bit tougher than the more recent paint MTH used.…
> 
> Tom


Oh yeah. The bulk of my steam locomotives didn't even have boards or motors when I acquired them. This one is gonna be a cakewalk comparatively speaking, especially compared to my PS3 2900 class: Looking to Get a Steam Locomotive in next MTH Auction


----------



## Norton

Krieglok said:


> That’s a beautiful engine, Lou. You upgrade the PS1 to PS3? I have picked up a few PS1 engines, electrics and a diesel for kit bashing. Upgrading them might be in their future! I also have a K-Line EP5 I would like to upgrade with ERR components. I need to learn electronics!
> 
> Currently, I have a MTH Proto 1 GP7 shell soaking in 91% Isopropyl now. The older paint seems a bit tougher than the more recent paint MTH used.…
> 
> Tom


Tom, you can go to ERR site and MTH site and download the installation manuals for their respective products. PS1 engines are easily upgraded to PS3. Upgrading to ERR is more involved if you want the same features, in particular adding chuff sounds and synchronized smoke.

Pete


----------



## Krieglok

Big Ed said:


> Some take to weathering a Locomotive like his.
> I don't think I could.
> Or even pay someone who is good at weathering to do it.
> 
> Does it takes a lot of IPA to do the shell?
> A gallon or 2? Need a large container to fill?
> Do you reuse the old IPA?


I used a gallon in a 9x4x12 tub that seals airtight. If I added another quart of isopropyl, it would completely submerge the engine. But it works fine, just turning the shell a few times during the soaks. The smaller tubs I use for cars, hold about a quart of isopropyl. The trick is to get the smallest container the project will fit in.

I have been using the same 1 gallon of isopropyl all summer long…about three months. The old paint settles out and I carefully port out the clean isopropyl into another container and leave the paint sludge behind. The I let the container sit open for a day so that the alcohol evaporates, leaving the sludge behind. Then I just wipe out the waste and put the used isopropyl back in. I can do about 4-5 cars in a tub before I need to remove the sludge…

If you keep the containers sealed, the isopropyl seems to last quite a while. I might throw in a pint of fresh 91 or 99% one in a while, just to add a little kick…

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

Norton said:


> Tom, you can go to ERR site and MTH site and download the installation manuals for their respective products. PS1 engines are easily upgraded to PS3. Upgrading to ERR is more involved if you want the same features, in particular adding chuff sounds and synchronized smoke.
> 
> Pete


Pete and Lou, I would probably have better luck with the PS1 to PS3 upgrade. I attempted a ERR upgrade on a K-Line EP-5 Electric and basically got nowhere with the project. The instructions just didn’t translate well in my brain


----------



## Big Ed

Krieglok said:


> I used a gallon in a 9x4x12 tub that seals airtight. If I added another quart of isopropyl, it would completely submerge the engine. But it works fine, just turning the shell a few times during the soaks. The smaller tubs I use for cars, hold about a quart of isopropyl. The trick is to get the smallest container the project will fit in.
> 
> I have been using the same 1 gallon of isopropyl all summer long…about three months. The old paint settles out and I carefully port out the clean isopropyl into another container and leave the paint sludge behind. The I let the container sit open for a day so that the alcohol evaporates, leaving the sludge behind. Then I just wipe out the waste and put the used isopropyl back in. I can do about 4-5 cars in a tub before I need to remove the sludge…
> 
> If you keep the containers sealed, the isopropyl seems to last quite a while. I might throw in a pint of fresh 91 or 99% one in a while, just to add a little kick…
> 
> Tom


Yeah, it dissipates quick, Methanol is quicker. But I don't think Methanol will take the paint off.
Use a coffee paper filter to help catch debris when you drain it. 
I use one for my used Evapo-rust.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Krieglok said:


> Pete and Lou, I would probably have better luck with the PS1 to PS3 upgrade. I attempted a ERR upgrade on a K-Line EP-5 Electric and basically got nowhere with the project. The instructions just didn’t translate well in my brain


If you're running both DCS and TMCC/Legacy, the clear choice cost wise is the PS/3 upgrade for steam. Diesel upgrades are similar in price between ERR and PS/3. Truthfully, I find TMCC upgrades easier for diesel than the PS/3, all the lighting has to be converted to LED and just dealing with the tangle of wiring harness for the PS/3 diesel upgrade is a PITA.


----------



## Krieglok

Doing a lot of painting (and stripping paint before hand) with locomotives and a few freight cars.

This is my recent finish…a MTH Premier Box car I repainted into Columbus and Greenville. It is medium green Scalecoat II paint with K-4 Decals.

The car started life as a “MTH Seminar” car...

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

I just finished a MTH PS1 Premier GP9 in DL&W colors. I stripped the shell, painted and decaled it with Microscale decals. It goes well with my Malcolm Byrd Lackawanna caboose…

Tom


----------



## beachhead2

That looks great, Tom. I don't remember, do you use rattle cans or airbrush on your repaints?


----------



## 86TA355SR

In process of painting a model I bought years ago. Top photo, unpainted brass, other pics of my progress. t’s coming along nicely.


----------



## Krieglok

Thanks! I use the Scalecoat spray cans. The nozzles on them are pretty good. They give a nice even delivery of paint.

Tom


----------



## Jetguy

@gunrunnerjohn , I forgot about a modification I made to my Coors set. I added a blue LED strip on the inside of the body shining into the large chromed locomotive back wheels. This reflects off the chrome and makes a massive difference.

















The LED strip was just an RGB strip of 3 LEDS, the shortest cutoff point and only Blue wired up to turn on.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Krieglok said:


> Thanks! I use the Scalecoat spray cans. The nozzles on them are pretty good. They give a nice even delivery of paint.
> 
> Tom


Tom,
I’ve never used SC in spray cans, but many modelers have echoed your comment about the nozzles being good.

SC is great, I really like it.

The locomotive I’m painting above is SC.

You guys may be able to see my “paint oven” if anyone is interested …?


----------



## Millstonemike

86TA355SR said:


> ... You guys may be able to see my “paint oven” if anyone is interested …?


Yes, we are. Pics?


----------



## Krieglok

86TA, That is a beautiful engine. Even better with the paint on it! I should get my airbrush set up. The spray cans are expensive. Also, they spray well until you get down to about 3/4 empty. The last quarter can, the spray gets spotty and will mess up the model if you try to use it…

Yes, let’s see the oven! I figure you are using regular Scalecoat for metal applications. Looks great so far!

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

Jetguy, that is one brilliant train! It must look cool in a darkened train room!

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Millstonemike said:


> Yes, we are. Pics?












My “paint oven” is a large METAL rural mailbox (~$17), a switched light socket (~$5), and a 300 watt clear light bulb. Works really well & simple.


----------



## Millstonemike

86TA355SR said:


> ...My “paint oven” is a large METAL rural mailbox (~$17), a switched light socket (~$5), and a 300 watt clear light bulb. Works really well & simple.


That's a twist. Another member used a cardboard box with a 100 W bulb. 

Do you have any idea of the steady state temp?


----------



## superwarp1

I have new EOB firmware I need to complete testing in both my Kline Berkshires that have EOB installed. Hoping for good slow speed operation without the whine present in most EOB installs.

I also have to pull the tops engine shell and tender shell on my MTH L4a Mohawk and take some pics for Bruk. Bruk needs to know what 3D printed brackets he'll need and to generate a parts list for the 50% Lionel parts sale. This winter he'll be converting it to Legacy. So fall is here, time to get back to trains.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

86TA355SR said:


> My “paint oven” is a large METAL rural mailbox (~$17), a switched light socket (~$5), and a 300 watt clear light bulb. Works really well & simple.


Needs a little vent with a fan.


----------



## Krieglok

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Needs a little vent with a fan.


Or a chimney!

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Millstonemike said:


> That's a twist. Another member used a cardboard box with a 100 W bulb.
> 
> Do you have any idea of the steady state temp?


I’ve never checked with temperature gun, not sure. Hot but won’t damage solder joints. You don’t want to touch for a few minutes after light is off. 

I use a 300W plain old clear incandescent light bulb. Yeah, they still make those, haha.

I typically bake an hour, sometimes I get busy and it’s 3-5 hours, it won’t hurt anything and there’s no “standard “ bake time. I consider it “done” when no longer tacky.

It’s super simple and works great.


----------



## Krieglok

Just to be clear, we are talking metal body locomotives here, right? I don’t think putting a plastic shell in a heated space would work out, but then again I haven’t seen everything…

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Krieglok said:


> Just to be clear, we are talking metal body locomotives here, right? I don’t think putting a plastic shell in a heated space would work out, but then again I haven’t seen everything…
> 
> Tom


Tom,

Yes, though plastic wouldn’t melt, it‘s not hot enough.


----------



## Jetguy

Video billboard car (improved widescreen high def version of the Lionel Visionline LCD billboard car) is still in progress, but the prototype works well. I'm planning on using black EVA foam to replace the plastic sheet cover between the 2 screens to and make speaker grills at the 2 ends of the cars.
Screen X2: 12.6" NV126B5M-N41 1920X515 LCD Screen Outline Size 315.61mm×94mm×5.3mm(H×V×D)
Media player module Micca Speck G2 MP4 module with IR remote








Main regulator to provide 12V source DROK DC-DC converter input voltage range is DC 9~36V (12V); output voltage is DC 12V; output current is 5A; output power is 60W
Basically, here is the power system in a nutshell. The pickup rollers are connected to a 6A bridge rectifier and 1000uf 35V capacitor producing the main unregulated DC source. That in turn is fed into the DROK brand regulator that is both a boost and buck regulator to maintain 12V with roughly 5A surge capacity. That then goes to a 3A diode feeding a bank of 10 each 2.7V super capacitors with 2.4V zener diodes across them to prevent overcharge (2 banks in parallel, 5 caps in series 2.4Vx5=12V) and given the drop loss across the input diode we maintain under that magical 12V limit. Then a small 5V switching regulator is powering the media player module, and an HDMI splitter is jammed in there to display the image on both LCDs.
All said, this is an expensive project, but to my knowledge, I have not seen anyone do something on this scale with screens on both sides, let alone the screen size and resolution. The crazy part is, you can buy every single part on Amazon and copy this.
$246 for the screens, $16 for the main regulator, $12 in super capacitors, $40 for the media player, and then in cables, an HDMI splitter and 2 regular to micro size HDMI cables $29, then 2 right angle plugs to make the cable system plug into the media player $10, not to mention a used MTH flatcar from Trainz.
The super caps let it run for at least 10-15 seconds with both screens on through a power drop, and then the screens drop out first leaving the media player still running (5v) for a few seconds longer so it should not have droppout problems running through switches and so forth. Power draw at 18V once the caps charge up is under 1A, and during charging up from power on, about 3A absolute max.


----------



## Jetguy

Jetguy said:


> Video billboard car (improved widescreen high def version of the Lionel Visionline LCD billboard car) is still in progress, but the prototype works well. I'm planning on using black EVA foam to replace the plastic sheet cover between the 2 screens to and make speaker grills at the 2 ends of the cars.
> Screen X2: 12.6" NV126B5M-N41 1920X515 LCD Screen Outline Size 315.61mm×94mm×5.3mm(H×V×D)
> Media player module Micca Speck G2 MP4 module with IR remote
> View attachment 565729
> 
> Main regulator to provide 12V source DROK DC-DC converter input voltage range is DC 9~36V (12V); output voltage is DC 12V; output current is 5A; output power is 60W
> Basically, here is the power system in a nutshell. The pickup rollers are connected to a 6A bridge rectifier and 1000uf 35V capacitor producing the main unregulated DC source. That in turn is fed into the DROK brand regulator that is both a boost and buck regulator to maintain 12V with roughly 5A surge capacity. That then goes to a 3A diode feeding a bank of 10 each 2.7V super capacitors with 2.4V zener diodes across them to prevent overcharge (2 banks in parallel, 5 caps in series 2.4Vx5=12V) and given the drop loss across the input diode we maintain under that magical 12V limit. Then a small 5V switching regulator is powering the media player module, and an HDMI splitter is jammed in there to display the image on both LCDs.
> All said, this is an expensive project, but to my knowledge, I have not seen anyone do something on this scale with screens on both sides, let alone the screen size and resolution. The crazy part is, you can buy every single part on Amazon and copy this.
> $246 for the screens, $16 for the main regulator, $12 in super capacitors, $40 for the media player, and then in cables, an HDMI splitter and 2 regular to micro size HDMI cables $29, then 2 right angle plugs to make the cable system plug into the media player $10, not to mention a used MTH flatcar from Trainz.
> The super caps let it run for at least 10-15 seconds with both screens on through a power drop, and then the screens drop out first leaving the media player still running (5v) for a few seconds longer so it should not have droppout problems running through switches and so forth. Power draw at 18V once the caps charge up is under 1A, and during charging up from power on, about 3A absolute max.


Video linkhttps://youtu.be/DXOEvbLfObk


----------



## Norton

Very cool project Jet but not steam era so I will only watch. That would turn heads at a train show for sure. Keep up the good work.

My current project is taming a Williams diecast Hudson. With a 9:1 gearbox they want to leap from the start and then just run faster. Stay tuned.

Pete


----------



## Jetguy

Norton said:


> Very cool project Jet but not steam era so I will only watch. That would turn heads at a train show for sure. Keep up the good work.
> 
> My current project is taming a Williams diecast Hudson. With a 9:1 gearbox they want to leap from the start and then just run faster. Stay tuned.
> 
> Pete


I'm 100% with you and looking forward to any solution on a Williams Hudson. I've stayed away from buying them since the stock motor also runs hot and a local member has been through a few motors.
Williams diesels is easy, just wire in series, but those single motor steam with basically the wrong motor winding and poor gearing are needing a solution. Again, I know exactly what you are facing and why you would want to do that project


----------



## Norton

Krieglok said:


> Just to be clear, we are talking metal body locomotives here, right? I don’t think putting a plastic shell in a heated space would work out, but then again I haven’t seen everything…
> 
> Tom


I think plastic might be OK up to 150F especially styrene. I wouldn’t try hotter than that. Just to be clear heat only helps dry most paint faster. Pretty sure only a few types of enamels actually get harder with heat. Lacquers and acrylics not so much.

Pete


----------



## Norton

On my semi scale Williams steamers I use a current inrush limiter, basically a negative temperature coefficient thermistor in series with the motor. It pretty much eliminates the jump start but does not limit top speed.
Current project is a 773 type Hudson that comes with a 550 Mabuchi. I trying a couple of 12v 2000 RPM motors which look like will do the trick. Good low end torque is giving speeds close to TMCC Hudsons at the first speed step. I am hoping to use a slightly smaller motor which will allow fitting it closer the gearbox and get it out of the cab so I can install a proper backhead.

Pete


----------



## Millstonemike

Jetguy said:


> Main regulator to provide 12V source DROK DC-DC converter input voltage range is DC 9~36V (12V); output voltage is DC 12V; output current is 5A; output power is 60W .


Do you have a link to that product? That would avoid using two modules to get 12 V DC from varying track voltages.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Painted black the conduit, railings, number boards, marker lights, hinges. Painted the bell, whistle & pop off valves too. Since pictures it’s in gloss coat ready for decals tomorrow.


----------



## Jetguy

Millstonemike said:


> Do you have a link to that product? That would avoid using two modules to get 12 V DC from varying track voltages.











Amazon.com: DC-DC Stabilizer, DROK 9V-36V to 12V Boost Buck Converter 5A 60W Waterproof Auto Step Up Down Voltage Regulator 12V Volt Transformer for Car Audio Solar Power System LCD Television LED Display Screen : Electronics


Amazon.com: DC-DC Stabilizer, DROK 9V-36V to 12V Boost Buck Converter 5A 60W Waterproof Auto Step Up Down Voltage Regulator 12V Volt Transformer for Car Audio Solar Power System LCD Television LED Display Screen : Electronics



www.amazon.com


----------



## Krieglok

Added two new boxcars to the fleet. Both are MTH Premier “MTH Seminar” cars I picked up cheap.

Stripped with isopropyl and repainted with Scalecoat II Boxcar Red 2. I used newer K4 decals on these cars. The decal paper seems a bit thicker than previous productions. They still came out okay.

Both cars were retrucked with MTH Friction bearing trucks...

Tom


----------



## Bryan Moran

You ever thought about selling your custom jobs?


----------



## Krieglok

Bryan Moran said:


> You ever thought about selling your custom jobs?


Sort of. My work isn’t really up to the point where I would feel comfortable selling it. There may be super minor imperfections that I am aware of, that makes me hesitant to offer items for sale.

I used to paint HO for a club layout. Doing 4 or 5 engines at once was kind of boring. It always went well, but that was 25 years ago…

I may entertain some requests soon. But please keep in mind I am no Harry Heike or Malcolm Byrd!

Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I have a whole box of MTH Premier club cars that I bought to repaint, I can get you started on your first contact job!


----------



## Bryan Moran

I find flaws in some of my new purchases it just goes with The territory.


----------



## Krieglok

Bryan, that’s true. I suppose I would do some and sell them. See what people think…

John, What road names are you thinking?

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

Here is my completed Lackawanna RS3. I just need to change the sound file on it.

Stripped with isopropyl and some light sanding. Primed with Tamiya grey primer and painted with Scalecoat II Satin Black spray cans. A bit of masking and the handrails were painted with C&NW yellow…another Scalecoat product.

Decals are from Microscale. They were a bit difficult to handle. They may be older stock as they had some splintering when wet. I went through the specific lettering on two sets before I got it right.

Detail painting included the Airhorns and exhaust stack being painted silver. The Lackawanna painted them this way. I added air hoses and MU jumper receptacles to the end handrails. I fabricated the drop steps from sheet brass diamond plate stock.

I will probably do the pilot modification discussed in another thread. Just waiting for the brass stock to arrive.

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Krieglok said:


> …Decals are from Microscale. They were a bit difficult to handle. They may be older stock as they had some splintering when wet…


Before using decals (especially old decals), I apply liquid decal film. It prevents disintegrating/splinters/tears.

I apply to new or old decals anymore. Great stuff.

Nice job on the locomotive!


----------



## Krieglok

86TA355SR said:


> Before using decals (especially old decals), I apply liquid decal film. It prevents disintegrating/splinters/tears.
> 
> I apply to new or old decals anymore. Great stuff.
> 
> Nice job on the locomotive!


Yeah, I bought them last week from Microscale on line. I will get some of that fluid for next time!

Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Locomotive looks great Tom.


Krieglok said:


> John, What road names are you thinking?


I'm a PRR and Reading man, and I have a ton of Reading boxcars, so I'd probably do some PRR ones. Of course, I have a ton of other road names, so I might do something else. I have a few C&O and N&W locomotives, so those are also candidates.


----------



## Krieglok

I can do a couple for you and see if you like them. Any idea of decals you would like to use?

Here are some. Of course it depends on the era you want. I am guessing they are 40’ steel cars…









Pennsylvania Railroad PRR X29D 40 Ft Boxcar White Shadow Herald - Decal - Choose Scale


Pennsylvania Railroad. X29D 40 Ft Boxcar. Model Railroad Decal Printed in white. Water slide decal.



k4decals.com













Pennsylvania PRR X54 40 Ft Insulated Boxcar Shadow Herald - Decal - Choose Scale


Pennsylvania Railroad. X54 40 Ft Insulated Boxcar. Model Railroad Decal Printed in white. Water slide decal.



k4decals.com













Tichy Train Group #10011O O Scale PRR X-29 Boxcar Decals | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Tichy Train Group #10011O O Scale PRR X-29 Boxcar Decals at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



www.ebay.com





Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I'll round up the box and see what style they are. They're the TCA club cars, and I'd rather have something that looks like it would have actually been on the rails. I believe they're standard 40' boxcars. This is a sample, and I think they're all identical cars, just different paint jobs.








This paint scheme looks good, with unique numbers of course!


----------



## Krieglok

Some of the premier cars have separate ladder details but cast in grab irons. The others have separate applied grabirons. They come both ways. I have stripped many of those MTH specialty cars. They clean up well.

Let me do a car in the above scheme. When it is done, I can ship it to you. If you like it, keep it and just send me a replacement from your stash. I have no idea how much labor would be, maybe just the cost of paint and a decal set...like $10…

Tom


----------



## MichaelE

Bryan Moran said:


> I find flaws in some of my new purchases it just goes with The territory.


That's a shame that you guys have to put up with sub-standard equipment in O scale. For what they charge for most models they should be near museum quality.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I'll send you an email Tom.


----------



## Krieglok

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I'll send you an email Tom.


Thanks John.

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

MichaelE said:


> That's a shame that you guys have to put up with sub-standard equipment in O scale. For what they charge for most models they should be near museum quality.


Yes quality is an issue, but we can adapt and overcome. Its part of the fun.

Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

MichaelE said:


> That's a shame that you guys have to put up with sub-standard equipment in O scale. For what they charge for most models they should be near museum quality.


Supply and demand, it's what makes the world go 'round.


----------



## Jetguy

Project Friday, just mid process of slapping in a superchuffer into this brand new (NOS) K-line 2-6-6T tank engine. Now enjoying idle smoke and also since the fan is no longer directly driven by the chuff line from the cruise board, hoping it will last. Thanks @gunrunnerjohn for making such a great product.








Also, drilled out the smoke funnel slightly and the air intake port while I had it open.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Jetguy said:


> Project Friday, just mid process of slapping in a superchuffer into this brand new (NOS) K-line 2-6-6T tank engine. Now enjoying idle smoke and also since the fan is no longer directly driven by the chuff line from the cruise board, hoping it will last. Thanks @gunrunnerjohn for making such a great product.
> Also, drilled out the smoke funnel slightly and the air intake port while I had it open.


Well, I don't get any Super-Chuffer back once they're installed, occasionally someone cooks one wiring it wrong. 
I'm glad to see it fits in there, I'm going to do the same thing to my K-Line tank engine!


----------



## Jetguy

Shell on













I think I need to upgrade the speaker, so the project continues.


----------



## Krieglok

Great Project. I have a K-Line 4-6-6T also. I was considering having it upgraded. Since then, I purchased the new Lionel version. The conversion may still happen, especially after seeing these previous thread entries…

Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

When I tear mine apart, I'll probably proactively replace the K-Line cruise board with the ERR CC-M board. The K-Line boards are notorious for going up in smoke, so I figure while I'm in there, I might as well nip that in the bud. I will have to add the Chuff-Generator, the K-Line Cruise in the tank engine also generates the chuff signal for this model.


----------



## Jetguy

Latest super chuffer and tach generator install for 4 chuffs per rev. Lionel 6-38032 Virginian.


----------



## Krieglok

Nice locomotive. I need to learn electronics. Too much good stuff getting past me.

Well, here are two cars I just finished. Both are Weaver cars. The Penn Central 40’ steel boxcar was painted for some Christmas scheme. I stripped it with isopropyl. It was a bear to strip. The Weaver paint is pretty tough. Scalecoat II paint and K4 decals…


















The second car, a Weaver 40’ Outside braced boxcar was a undecorated 2 rail car. I primed and painted it with Scalecoat II paint. The decals are also K4 decals.


















I finished both cars with Scalecoat II Flat finish. It worked well, so it will be part of my process from now on. Both cars needed three rail trucks and couplers, so I installed Weaver diecast trucks and couplers with friction bearings

Tom


----------



## Millstonemike

Krieglok said:


> ... I need to learn electronics. Too much good stuff getting past me. ...
> I finished both cars with Scalecoat II Flat finish. It worked well, so it will be part of my process from now on…
> 
> Tom


Yeah, and the rest of us need to learn painting premier custom cars


----------



## Krieglok

Millstonemike said:


> Yeah, and the rest of us need to learn painting premier custom cars


Heh, that was self taught since I was a little kid! Tanks and planes taught me well!

Tom


----------



## Norton

I thought I would post a little update on trying to tame a Williams Diecast Hudson. I first tried a Buehler 12v 2000 rpm motor. On the rollers it looked good running about the same speed as a TMCC Hudson on step one. This with an ERR Cruise Commander. As soon as put the shell on I found out that motor didn't have enough torque to move the engine off a stop despite different settings and tuning the gearbox and chassis for zero binding.
Next was this 8000 series Pittman. The smaller size let me fit it closer to the gearbox once I removed some metal from the shell. This will start the engine and move some heavy cars but at the first speed step its just as fast as the 555 Mabuchi this engine came with. 

I have come to the conclusion the only way to give slow starts is to replace the gear box. This one is 9:1. NWSL makes a couple that are 23:1 and 25:1 respectively. I just have to decide if this engine is worth the investment. 

The plus of the small motor is I can now install a backhead and cab rear with some added detail. 

This is how much smaller the Pittman is and how much closer it is compared with the Mabuchi now located over its mounting points.










Shell now milled out.










Cab now well clear of the motor.










Pete


----------



## Jetguy

Norton said:


> I have come to the conclusion the only way to give slow starts is to replace the gear box. This one is 9:1. NWSL makes a couple that are 23:1 and 25:1 respectively. I just have to decide if this engine is worth the investment.
> Pete


Thanks for the update and details on the experiment even if it failed. Sometimes, knowing what others have tried is still as good an answer as what worked. BTW, nice machinining work there.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

WOW Pete, I'm surprised the Buehler motor is so wimpy. That is a very low gear ratio, I can see why a better gearbox is needed for that one.


----------



## Norton

I was surprised about the Buehler too but I have gone back and forth a few times with the same result. That motor is about the same size as the 8000 Pittman. The Pittman is actually a 24v model I got from Lionel but sems to perform like a 12v model. It turns at the first speed step and runs very fast at full speed. I may replace it with a 12v 8000 Pittman which should give even better low speed torque should I do the gearbox swap.
I have a video of the Buehler but can't upload it here and don't have a Youtube account.

Jet I have an old Bridgeport I bought for motorcycle work but found it comes in handy for train projects like this.

Pete


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Well, a YouTube account is free Pete, you should sign up for one.  You can simply get a new GMAIL address and just use it for that purpose.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Krieglok said:


> ….I finished both cars with Scalecoat II Flat finish. It worked well, so it will be part of my process from now on.
> 
> Tom


Tom,
Perfect timing. I’m waiting for SC Flat clear to arrive, haven’t used it prior. Did you notice a change in the “hue” or shade of the color when you applied the SC flat clear? Or a “chalk“ appearance after applied?

Reason I ask-the Testors flat clear that has served me well over decades just gave a ”chalk” appearance to my paint. The paint looks like a different color. I’m hoping the SC flat doesn’t have the same effect. I plan to experiment a little with flat/thinner in hopes the SC flat clear won’t be as strong.

appreciate feedback.

Aaron


----------



## Krieglok

Hi Aaron.

I know what you mean by a chalky appearance. I have found that Scalecoat II doesn’t play well with other brands of clear coats. I used Dullcote on a Scalecoat paint job and the finished looked very chalky. Other brands of clear coats, like Humbrol or Krylon, didn’t work well. The key is to stay with the same brand of the Scalecoat products.

I used satin and gloss finishes with fine results. I experimented with the flat finish on the Penn Central car to start with. It worked nicely, actually hiding a couple odd paint application issues. The car came out better than I expected and I then used it on the Frisco car. Again, the results were great. Both cars took a couple coats to get all the nooks but it does work well.

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Thanks Tom, I was hoping to hear that. 

I knew better than mixing clears and paint brands. Like you, I think SC is really particular about which clear is used. I plan on only using their flat, will report back with results.


----------



## MichaelE

I'll be working on a continuing project at the bench in about 20 minutes.

I had another member on a European forum send me two driveshafts from another locomotive of the same brand that he was dismantling. They arrived from France in record time and they were the exact replacements I needed for my BR.120 A.C.M.E. brand locomotive.

The front driveshaft failed almost two years ago and this locomotive has been limping along on a repaired driveshaft since. The problem has gotten worse over the past months with stuttering and jerking during start-up, and is worse in the other direction. It smooths out at speed, but now will not pull grades with a five car consist.

It seems the broken driveshaft(s) were only a symptom of a problem with the drivetrain gears. That truck is going to be removed and I'm finally going to find out why these driveshafts have failed after I disassemble the truck down to component parts.

I'm betting on a split gear or it's slipping on the gear axle.


----------



## Krieglok

deleted….


----------



## Krieglok

Paint shop at work.

I have two boxcars and a tank car that are being decaled at the moment.

In the foreground are GRJ’s MTH boxcars, at least two of them. They have been stripped and primed, waiting for the paint to come from Scalecoat. They are becoming PRR boxcars. Decals are ready and waiting!

Tom


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## gunrunnerjohn

Cool, but I'm not sure that's an accurate PRR color!  😂


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## Krieglok

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Cool, but I'm not sure that's an accurate PRR color!  😂


Old PRR work train color….😉
Tom


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## gunrunnerjohn

Krieglok said:


> Old PRR work train color….😉
> Tom


Hmm... that does look a little like some of the work train colors... 😂


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## Krieglok

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Hmm... that does look a little like some of the work train colors... 😂


The “pre-yellow” era! Don’t worry. I have some Pennsy Boxcar Red coming from Minuteman! Just waiting….🤨

Tom


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## lou1985

Got the MTH Premier USRA Mikado I was working on "ATSFized". The model is closest in size to the 3129 class, so I numbered it accordingly. Once the weather turns I'll take a rainy October/November Saturday and wire in the electronics to make it functional. I added an ATSF side mount bell, ATSF number boards, and converted the tender from coal to oil.


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## Krieglok

Great looking locomotive. is That the original MTH paint? I Know you renumbered it, but the black looks brand new. Very nice.
I would curious to see the top of the tender oil bunker…

Tom


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## gunrunnerjohn

Great looking locomotive Lou, nice work!


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## lou1985

Krieglok said:


> Great looking locomotive. is That the original MTH paint? I Know you renumbered it, but the black looks brand new. Very nice.
> I would curious to see the top of the tender oil bunker…
> 
> Tom


It's mostly MTH factory paint. The smokebox was graphite so I painted black per ATSF practice. This stuff is a dead on match color/sheen wise for factory MTH paint: https://www.amazon.com/PJ1-16-SAT-Satin-Engine-Aerosol/dp/B00230I89U

The area under the cab windows was cleared due to decals. The smokebox was repainted as I filled in the hole for the bell mount. The tender is MTH paint but cleared over the decals. The oil bunker is painted with the same paint I used on the smokebox. It's a flat piece of plastic with PSC parts and rivet decals.









The coal load was pretty easy to remove. I just lightly tapped the center with a ballpeen hammer to crack the epoxy coating. After that it came out in large chunks with a flat blade screw driver.

Next up is a Premier PS1 ATSF 2900 class Northern. I'm going to bring it up to the level of detail my PS3 version has by blackening out all the shiny metal parts, adding a functional stack extension, painting the smokebox door graphite, painting the cab interior green, painting backhead details, and adding bell and whistle cords. Like the Mikado it'll get a PS3 steam kit.


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## Krieglok

The tender looks great. Thanks for the top view. I am planning on converting a Lionel Mikado Jr, lettered for Texas and Pacific, to an oil burner. I haven’t been able to locate a oil fill hatch just yet.

Great work all around. I always learn a lot from your posts!

Tom


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## 86TA355SR

You do great work, Lou!

Tom, check PSC, they have a few different oil hatches.


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## Krieglok

86TA355SR said:


> You do great work, Lou!
> 
> Tom, check PSC, they have a few different oil hatches.


ah, okay! Will do. Thanks!

Tom


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## lou1985

You can order directly from PSC by calling them. They have their parts catalog on line: Precision Scale Company – Importer of Brass Model Trains

They also sell on eBay. So if you do a search in O scale on eBay for oil hatch, water hatch, tender hatch, etc. you should be able to find their parts that way as well.


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## Krieglok

Well, here is a week’s worth of disassembly, stripping painting, decaling, finishing and reassembly of a few freight cars. The two Weaver OB boxcars were undecorated, so I was able to skip the stripping process on those. I was also working on four boxcars for GRJ at the same time.

Here are the exciting and colorful paint schemes…a Georgia and Florida railroad boxcar and a Clinchfield boxcar. Actually pretty drab paint schemes but that was the routine in their era. Both painted with Scalecoat II and K4 decals applied. I also installed diecast Weaver trucks and couplers…



















This tank started as a MTH Railking NYC car. Stripped and repainted for Pennsylvania Salt company. I added stirrup to the corners. The car came with nice MTH friction bearing trucks, so they stayed with it. Also Scalecoat II paint and K4 decals…










Tom


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## Krieglok

lou1985 said:


> You can order directly from PSC by calling them. They have their parts catalog on line: Precision Scale Company – Importer of Brass Model Trains
> 
> They also sell on eBay. So if you do a search in O scale on eBay for oil hatch, water hatch, tender hatch, etc. you should be able to find their parts that way as well.


Thanks Lou. I looked on eBay but only found HO fill hatches. I will ty again with the information you have given me. I could probably put together a good order for PSC parts.

Tom


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## Lehigh74

I like the wood sided boxcars, but then I like just about anything with wood sides. I’ve been looking for a wood sided Reading NMn caboose for a few years, but I don’t think one was ever made.

The tank car also piqued my interest because when I was a kid, PENNSALT owned the Stotesbury mansion (Whitemarsh Hall) in my hometown and used it for a research lab.


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## Krieglok

Bob, I would think anything Reading would be out there. Does it look like this?










I can’t say I ever have even seen a real one. Most wood cabooses didn’t survive, it seems.

The PennSalt car decal set was interesting. The name doesn’t seem to jibe with the product..lol. Sulphuric acid…but then I am not a Chemist!

Tom


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## Lehigh74

There are plenty of Reading / Northeast standard caboose models, but the wood sided NMn that Reading built during WWII for itself and the L&HR, not so much. I actually did see one once at a train show, but it was a very crummy model so I passed.

The 92962 was indeed an NMn. I have only seen this survivor at the Reading Museum in Hanover, PA.

And yes, Pennsalt made a lot more than just salt during its history. At one time they were called Pennsalt Chemical Company. The current name is Pennwalt.


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## Krieglok

Bob, That might be a candidate for Malcolm Byrd to build. He is known as “brother_love” at various forums. I have one of his Lackawanna cabooses. Nice models, but not cheap!

I was looking at Reading steel cabooses and it is interesting how close the profiles are. I thought about taking a steel caboose, sanding or shaving all the rivet details and belt rail, then carefully scribing groves to simulate wood siding. It could probably be done right with a little patience…might be worth a try…

Tom


----------



## Lehigh74

As I mentioned in your Cheap Car Weights thread, I am one cheap SOB, so while I admire his work, I don’t think I’ll be calling on Brother Love for an NMn.

The NMn was originally going to made with steel skin so it’s no wonder it looks like other standard cabooses. In fact all Reading four axle cabooses made between 1924 and 1948 (NMd to MNp) look pretty much the same.


----------



## Norton

How about getting a plastic caboose, cut it apart at the four sides and use the windows as a template with some scribed wood? Then cut out the doors and windows and insert them into the wood sides, ends and cupola. Reuse the frame and roofs.

Pete


----------



## Krieglok

Hmmm….I bought a Weaver NE Caboose. I am going to attempt a conversion like I described. Basically I just need to smooth out the rivets and scribe to plank seams. I will figure it out as I go along. Just have to find appropriate decals.

I was tempted to buy a Lionel NE, but at $94 it was a bit pricey to experiment with. It does have nicer detail though. Maybe for a follow up, I could do one.

If it comes out well, it will need a home and I don’t collect any Reading stuff…😉

Tom


----------



## Lehigh74

Well, you could make it one of the eight composite cabooses that the Reading shops made for Lehigh and Hudson River in 1942. The L&HR cabooses were numbered 10 to 17.


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## gunrunnerjohn

Krieglok said:


> If it comes out well, it will need a home and I don’t collect any Reading stuff…😉


Not to worry, Bob will gladly take it off your hands if it comes out well.


----------



## Krieglok

I am almost finished with my DL&W GP7. It is a passenger unit equipped with a boiler. The water tank was paired with the fuel tank under the frame, so the main reservoirs for the brake system were moved to the top.

I need to add a sloped handrail to the short hood, a Lackawanna characteristic. I also will be converting a spare fuel tank to a larger tank, eliminating the air tanks on the underside…



















Tom


----------



## Norton

Another update on taming the Williams Hudson. I tried two more motors. One a large “Chinese Pittman” which is what I believe MTH is now using. This is about the size of a 9434 Pittman. They are offered in 12v and 3 or 4 different RPMs this one sold as a 2000 RPM motor. No matter it takes off like the 555 Mabuchi. Same with an 8700 12v Pittman. Size is between an 8600 and 9433 Pittman in diameter. All this confirms to me the only way to slow these engines down is with a different gearbox. I may still go that route or just set the engine aside and use its tender, per my original plan, with an MTH parts donor Hudson. Here is a preview of that project. Still awaiting a few more parts. What you see is what I started with.



















Pete


----------



## Jetguy

Last night's project, building a steam sound tender for K-line Porter engines using the little tender from the 6-1287 pioneer docksider set.
This is a work in progress and likely to change to railsounds here at the parts sale next weekend. At least for now, showing trainsounds since I had it on hand.








So you take that plastic tender with plastic wheels and plastic couplers, and then replace them with heavier diecast couplers and metal wheels one being the magnet set.








You also add the hall effect sensor board on a standoff and a pickup roller on another standoff and now you have power.
Here is a different view








So then topside, you drop in trainsounds under the resin molded copy of the coal load.








And you get this












and





Probably need to shorten up that engine to tender gap a bit??!!!
Anyway, trainsounds is Ok, railsounds is better and might be a tight fit, but I think I can make it work using railsounds lite and maybe if I have to, a smaller speaker.


----------



## Millstonemike

Norton said:


> Another update on taming the Williams Hudson. I tried two more motors. One a large “Chinese Pittman” which is what I believe MTH is now using. This is about the size of a 9434 Pittman. They are offered in 12v and 3 or 4 different RPMs this one sold as a 2000 RPM motor. No matter it takes off like the 555 Mabuchi. Same with an 8700 12v Pittman. Size is between an 8600 and 9433 Pittman in diameter. All this confirms to me the only way to slow these engines down is with a different gearbox. I may still go that route or just set the engine aside and use its tender, per my original plan, with an MTH parts donor Hudson. Here is a preview of that project. Still awaiting a few more parts. What you see is what I started with.
> 
> Pete


Are you testing the speed with a conventional transformer that jumps from 0 to ~6 V when throttling up? If so, you could try some diodes to reduce the voltage to the motor. Four diodes would give you a 2 V drop (more under heavy load).


----------



## Jetguy

Millstonemike said:


> Are you testing the speed with a conventional transformer that jumps from 0 to ~6 V when throttling up? If so, you could try some diodes to reduce the voltage to the motor. Four diodes would give you a 2 V drop (more under heavy load).


I know you mean well, but that's not going to fix this.
It's not a voltage problem, it's a motor gearing problem. Lowering the voltage it's just going to draw high amperage, heat BOTH the motor and those diodes, and not solve the problem.
This is a known Williams steam problem with certain engines. They chose poor gearing, and so they just bog the motor, draw high amperage, and changing the motor winding ratio doesn't fix the poorly chosen gear ratio.


----------



## Norton

Millstonemike said:


> Are you testing the speed with a conventional transformer that jumps from 0 to ~6 V when throttling up? If so, you could try some diodes to reduce the voltage to the motor. Four diodes would give you a 2 V drop (more under heavy load).


Mike, I am driving them with an ERR Cruise Commander set at 100 speed steps and observing speed at speed step one. I am familiar with how other similar engines perform at the same speed setting and this engine is about 3-4 times as fast.

Pete


----------



## Millstonemike

Norton said:


> Mike, I am driving them with an ERR Cruise Commander set at 100 speed steps and observing speed at speed step one. I am familiar with how other similar engines perform at the same speed setting and this engine is about 3-4 times as fast.
> 
> Pete


I understand your analysis and agree. There's nothing better than an optimal motor-gear drive ratio. 

Here's my thinking on the problem: The Cruise Commander uses back EMF to control speed. The high drive ratio may be confusing its electronic speed control algorithm. The motor spins slower for any applied voltage producing less back EMF. Thus, the Cruise Commander thinks the loco is barely moving based on the slow motor speed and ups the Step 1 voltage. A cycle continues until the motor's back EMF and the Cruise commander speed algorithm arrive at a steady state. And that occurs way above slow speed operation. All due to the drive ratio and Cruise Commander assumptions for common loco drives.

I would think the ERR's speed algorithm assumes an common internal resistance for these motors and uses current draw to calculate back EMF. So by dropping the current draw at any given feed voltage, the Cruise Commander may think the loco is running faster. That is, a motor with higher internal resistance will better align with the Cruise commanders algorithm given the suboptimal drive ratio. Inserting diodes to drop the motor voltage will decrease the current draw given the Cruise Commander's applied voltage. And that may better align the sub-optimal drive ratio with the back EMF algorithm.

And DC motors are natural transmissions. So trading speed for torque as needed is not a problem - within reason.

EE guys please chime in


----------



## Norton

ERR uses back emf only above a certain RPM. At low RPMs its actually using the pulses generated when a armature brush passes over to the next commutator segment as a tach signal, same as one generated by a optical detector and tach wheel. Look at the voltage at the motor leads with a scope and you can see these pulses. All the motors I have used so far are either 5 or 7 pole so resolution is good. ERR will even work with three pole motors if cogging is not too bad although Jon Z. doesn’t recommend using it with those low end motors. 
The low gear ratio puts a greater load at startup when pulling a train but this engine behaves no differently when on rollers with virtually no load.

Pete


----------



## Jetguy

Millstonemike said:


> I understand your analysis and agree. There's nothing better than an optimal motor-gear drive ratio.
> 
> Here's my thinking on the problem: The Cruise Commander uses back EMF to control speed. The high drive ratio may be confusing its electronic speed control algorithm. The motor spins slower for any applied voltage producing less back EMF. Thus, the Cruise Commander thinks the loco is barely moving based on the slow motor speed and ups the Step 1 voltage. A cycle continues until the motor's back EMF and the Cruise commander speed algorithm arrive at a steady state. And that occurs way above slow speed operation. All due to the drive ratio and Cruise Commander assumptions for common loco drives.
> 
> I would think the ERR's speed algorithm assumes an common internal resistance for these motors and uses current draw to calculate back EMF. So by dropping the current draw at any given feed voltage, the Cruise Commander may think the loco is running faster. That is, a motor with higher internal resistance will better align with the Cruise commanders algorithm given the suboptimal drive ratio. Inserting diodes to drop the motor voltage will decrease the current draw given the Cruise Commander's applied voltage. And that may better align the sub-optimal drive ratio with the back EMF algorithm.
> 
> And DC motors are natural transmissions. So trading speed for torque as needed is not a problem - within reason.
> 
> EE guys please chime in


I would love to continue, but this isn't the place IMO. I'm guilty myself, this is supposed to be about projects, and then OK, the occasional comment back or a question, but a debate on electrical theory, we probably should have a different dedicated topic. Just my 2 cents.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Updated picture of the locomotive I’m painting.

Waiting on the dull coat to arrive. Today I couldn’t resist sitting the boiler _loosely_ on the chassis and placing the wheels under it. It‘s not done, but not much left to finish-dullcoat, number boards, & some very light weathering/final assembly.


----------



## Millstonemike

Norton said:


> ERR uses back emf only above a certain RPM. At low RPMs its actually using the pulses generated when a armature brush passes over to the next commutator segment as a tach signal, same as one generated by a optical detector and tach wheel. ... The low gear ratio puts a greater load at startup when pulling a train but this engine behaves no differently when on rollers with virtually no load.
> 
> Pete


Taken together, those two statements make me think the switch in control from brush pulses to back EMF (e.g., current) is based on the current draw, not the brush pulse frequency.


----------



## Krieglok

Love the look of that boiler!

Tom


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Updated picture of the locomotive I’m painting.
> 
> Waiting on the dull coat to arrive. Today I couldn’t resist sitting the boiler _loosely_ on the chassis and placing the wheels under it. It‘s not done, but not much left to finish-dullcoat, number boards, & some very light weathering/final assembly.
> 
> View attachment 567204


Looks great. Where did you get the white Union Pacific font number decals?


----------



## 86TA355SR

lou1985 said:


> Looks great. Where did you get the white Union Pacific font number decals?


Thanks Lou. You have a well trained eye to know the railroad just by the number font!

Decals from a train show. A few sheets are hard to find, so I have the local print shop help me out, if you know what I mean…


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Thanks Lou. You have a well trained eye to know the railroad just by the number font!
> 
> Decals from a train show. A few sheets are hard to find, so I have the local print shop help me out, if you know what I mean…


I recognize ATSF/SP/UP fonts, because those roads make up my motive power fleet. Only reason.

I need some white UP numbers in a few sizes for an upcoming project, which is why I was wondering where you got yours. I'll probably have to have someone make them up as well.


----------



## Lehigh74

Krieglok said:


> I am almost finished with my DL&W GP7. It is a passenger unit equipped with a boiler. The water tank was paired with the fuel tank under the frame, so the main reservoirs for the brake system were moved to the top.
> 
> I need to add a sloped handrail to the short hood, a Lackawanna characteristic. I also will be converting a spare fuel tank to a larger tank, eliminating the air tanks on the underside…
> 
> Tom


The geep looks great. At first glace I thought it looked like PRR, but the paint appears to be black and not DGLE. My B&O GP7 with the top side air tanks has a large fuel and probably a water tank under the frame. I’m curious why the Lackawanna GP7 needs air tanks under the frame if it has them on top. Or is yours a mash up of a few models?


----------



## Krieglok

Lehigh74 said:


> The geep looks great. At first glace I thought it looked like PRR, but the paint appears to be black and not DGLE. My B&O GP7 with the top side air tanks has a large fuel and probably a water tank under the frame. I’m curious why the Lackawanna GP7 needs air tanks under the frame if it has them on top. Or is yours a mash up of a few models?


Bob,

The Lackawanna Geeps weathered to a point where they had a dark green appearance. They were black, but the real ones had an odd green hue to them as they aged…

And yes, the air tanks under the frame wouldn’t be there on the Lackawanna GP7 passenger version. I need to modify a fuel tank to make it larger…or get the proper tanks. Did MTH make a GP7 with the large fuel/water tank and the torpedo tube air reservoirs?

Tom


----------



## Millstonemike

Norton said:


> Another update on taming the Williams Hudson. I tried two more motors. One a large “Chinese Pittman” which is what I believe MTH is now using. This is about the size of a 9434 Pittman. They are offered in 12v and 3 or 4 different RPMs this one sold as a 2000 RPM motor. No matter it takes off like the 555 Mabuchi. Same with an 8700 12v Pittman. Size is between an 8600 and 9433 Pittman in diameter. All this confirms to me the only way to slow these engines down is with a different gearbox. ....
> 
> Pete


370 and 555 sized motors with integral gear reduction. The physical sizes and reduction ratios are given in *this link* and *another link*. Lots of other combinations searching around the site.


----------



## Norton

Thanks for the Links Mike. Will be handy for the future. I had already bit the bullet and ordered a NWSL gearbox. Stay tuned. Part of the problem with an inline gearbox, I had already located a 2:1 from Germany, is the length. A 555 size motor with gearbox would stick out of the cab another 1”. 
By swapping out the existing gearbox and using a smaller diameter motor I can add a backhead and detail the cab. The crew will be thanking me for being able to move around in there.

Pete


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Amusing find on the motor page...


----------



## Lehigh74

Krieglok said:


> And yes, the air tanks under the frame wouldn’t be there on the Lackawanna GP7 passenger version. I need to modify a fuel tank to make it larger…or get the proper tanks. Did MTH make a GP7 with the large fuel/water tank and the torpedo tube air reservoirs?
> 
> Tom


They did. My new B&O GP-7 (20-21415-1) has a large fuel tank. The image on MTH website shows it with smaller fuel tank and air tanks under the frame. I did a quick search at the new parts site and didn’t find any joy. They don’t have the Premier PS3 GP-7 listed yet, any tanks I saw included the underframe air tanks and price is $20.


----------



## Millstonemike

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Amusing find on the motor page...
> 
> View attachment 567311


Are they drop shipping motors from the Chinese supplier?


----------



## Krieglok

Lehigh74 said:


> They did. My new B&O GP-7 (20-21415-1) has a large fuel tank. The image on MTH website shows it with smaller fuel tank and air tanks under the frame. I did a quick search at the new parts site and didn’t find any joy. They don’t have the Premier PS3 GP-7 listed yet, any tanks I saw included the underframe air tanks and price is $20.
> View attachment 567312


Thanks Bob. I actually found one on the new MTH parts webpage. I am putting together an order now. I hope they have it!


----------



## Norton

Just following up my MTH parts donor Hudson project. Its been sitting on the layout now for a couple of years and I wasn’t sure what to do with it. One possibility was to use the wheels to three rail a 2 rail Pacific. That may still happen but I am more likely to use the wheels from the Williams Hudson or some other junker that comes my way.

Anyway these are the parts I had to find or make to turn this engine into a runner. One point to take home is you don’t have to use original factory parts to fix any engine.

Start point again, though the gray paint had already been stripped. This is an engine from around 2001 that was in one of MTH Heritage sets, basically remakes of Lionel’s pre war scale trains. It came with a tinplate tender and cars which is why I have to find a scale tender to run with it.



















These are parts.










Motor from ebay.
Motor mount, modified flywheel, modified dogbone, driveshaft, bell, headlight bracket, trailing truck snifter pipe, are from Lionel.
Brass NYC headlight from PSC.
Engine truck is MTH.
The rest are homemade or common screws.

I came up with an easier way to duplicate shoulder screws. Lionel shows about two hundred different shoulder screws and none were an exact match for the MTH screws. Rather than machine a complete screw from scratch I used a common screw and just machined the head and shoulder. Fast and simple if you have a lathe. MTH center, homemade to the outside.











Plan now is to go with a PS3 kit as it will have the rest of the parts needed. The engine did come with a smoke unit and mux board.

Pete


----------



## Krieglok

Lehigh74 said:


> They did. My new B&O GP-7 (20-21415-1) has a large fuel tank. The image on MTH website shows it with smaller fuel tank and air tanks under the frame. I did a quick search at the new parts site and didn’t find any joy. They don’t have the Premier PS3 GP-7 listed yet, any tanks I saw included the underframe air tanks and price is $20.
> View attachment 567312





Lehigh74 said:


> They did. My new B&O GP-7 (20-21415-1) has a large fuel tank. The image on MTH website shows it with smaller fuel tank and air tanks under the frame. I did a quick search at the new parts site and didn’t find any joy. They don’t have the Premier PS3 GP-7 listed yet, any tanks I saw included the underframe air tanks and price is $20.
> View attachment 567312


Bob, I found the tank at the new MTH website and ordered it. It is in the mail already!

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

The new tank installed, and the extra handrail on the short hood…

Tom


----------



## Lehigh74

That was quick. I guess the new MTH parts site is working well.
OH BTW, the GP-7 looks good.


----------



## callmeIshmael2

Norton said:


> Many folks are put off at the thought of using an airbrush but its actually easier and you will get better results than using a rattle can, at least for solid colors like this. The spray droplets are much finer as well as the pattern. While I do have double action airbrushes, this was done with my 40+ year old Paasche H single action. One button just like a spray can.
> Thats why I emptied the rattle can of PJ1 into a bottle then used it in my airbrush, just for the better control and finer spray.
> Pete


Hi Norton! I finally got myself an airbrush, but still have way too many rattle-cans around to totally ignore them, and then I see you have used the paint inside a rattler for airbrushing! QUESTION: How did you get the can open without blowing it up? I've always had the impression that with the cans under heavy pressure, opening them could be a very unpleasant experience! Thanks for your reply!


----------



## Norton

callmeIshmael2 said:


> Hi Norton! I finally got myself an airbrush, but still have way too many rattle-cans around to totally ignore them, and then I see you have used the paint inside a rattler for airbrushing! QUESTION: How did you get the can open without blowing it up? I've always had the impression that with the cans under heavy pressure, opening them could be a very unpleasant experience! Thanks for your reply!


Without shaking the can I just puncture it near the rim with a nail, just enough to release the pressure. Let is sit for a few minutes, then make a second larger hole and pour the paint into a bottle. Then pour that into your airbrush bottle. When you open the lid on your storage bottle do it slowly as with some paint the propellant is held in the paint and will release when pressure is removed like a champaign bottle. 

Pete


----------



## Krieglok

callmeIshmael2 said:


> Hi Norton! I finally got myself an airbrush, but still have way too many rattle-cans around to totally ignore them, and then I see you have used the paint inside a rattler for airbrushing! QUESTION: How did you get the can open without blowing it up? I've always had the impression that with the cans under heavy pressure, opening them could be a very unpleasant experience! Thanks for your reply!


That is an interesting idea. I too have tons of rattle cans. I really need to set up my airbrush.

And a method for the more feint of heart, to deplete the propellant in cans…

You can hold the can upside down and deplete the propellant by spraying, the same way to clear the spray can nozzle between uses…then cut a hole in it…

Tom


----------



## Jetguy

Of course, I had to swap out that Canon to a Pitmann.
















I used one of those modified encoder motors with the encoder cutoff using nothing more than a Harbor Freight metal bandsaw.


----------



## Krieglok

Nice! I need to learn how to do this mechanical work. There is always improvements that can be made!

Tom


----------



## Jetguy

OK, second project of the day. This started as a very lightly used G scale 45mm Mamod live steam engine. I wanted an O gauge, and while I could possibly buy an 0 scale wheelset mod, I elected to take a chance, press off one side of the wheels, cut the axles, drill the wheels (because the axle was originally stepped small diameter VS the shaft and bushings) and pressed it all back together and got it quartered. Then you also need to remove the spacer thick gaskets that had the cylinders further out for 45mm spacing, vs 32mm for "O". Not wanting the water and hot oil, for demonstration purposes, I took a tiny can motor compressor (used in 3d printing to provide layer cooling air), stuck it on a Lionel GP9 "upgrade kit" truck with pickup roller using hot glue. Yes, I know, kind of ugly and comical but pretty quiet and more than enough pressure and airflow at roughly 12V on the track. Varying track voltage does change the speed.

















Here's a video of it running




The whistle valve can kind of stick open (the hissing) depending on the pull lever position and so I was leaking pressure and you hear me increase the voltage and the compressor speed and then still have to bump the whistle lever just inside the cab (slightly off camera).

I just need to find o build a suitable tender or car to jam this compressor in and hide it. This was just the quick and dirty, what do I have on the top of the parts pile for testing run.


----------



## Jetguy

Second video showing starting from a dead stop, blipping the voltage a bit to nudge it off, and then you can easily control the speed.




Originally I was using these compressors in 3D printing for layer cooling from here Berd-Air MAX
They make 12V and 24V rated systems, I think this is the 24V (there are no markings and I had several 12v and 24V versions in my parts box).

FWIW, I just did some quick searching and you can find the 24V version of the compressor on Amazon DC 24V Mini Vacuum Pump Low Noise Short Filling Time Air Vacuum Suction Pump: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
They provide either compressed air or suction depending on which port you attach your hose to. Good for vacuum application, like when I needed degassing a silicone mold project. Just saying, these are infinitely handy to have around.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

You can have that pump for half price if you buy it at AliExpress. 
DC 24V Diaphragm Vacuum Pump Mini Air Pump 15L/Min High Pressure


----------



## Jetguy

FWIW, I was asked a question of how much pressure can one produce.
Maximum Pressure: > 625 mmHg (80KPa) *12PSI doing the conversion of mmHG to PSI* 
My experience is that is probably pretty accurate.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Added numbers and started weathering the rods.


----------



## Norton

Did you use dry transfers here? Headlight numbers are always a bit of a challange.















Pete


----------



## 86TA355SR

Norton said:


> Did you use dry transfers here? Headlight numbers are always a bit of a challange.
> Pete


No sir, water slide. Individually applied (I have an easier way, but technology wasn’t cooperating). 

Site is weird today-5th attempt to post pictures and it kept crashing on my end. Hence the comment. I didn’t know the pictures posted until the “reply“ notice from you. Strange.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

For number boards I print them on plain #20 paper in reverse, white on black, using Word. Cut them out and use canopy glue to stick them to a blank plastic number board, then spray with clear coat to secure them. That's worked pretty well most of the time and makes very decent looking numbers. If I have number boards with the wrong numbers, I sand them off before applying my numbers.


----------



## 86TA355SR

I do the same, John. Works well. 

Font match is close, but not exact. It passes the 10 foot test though.


----------



## Norton

Best way to match the font is copy it from the original, if possible.




















Pete


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

86TA355SR said:


> I do the same, John. Works well.
> 
> Font match is close, but not exact. It passes the 10 foot test though.


The beauty of using something like Word is you have the choice of hundreds of fonts, and you can search around and probably find a pretty close TrueType font match for most number boards.


----------



## Millstonemike

gunrunnerjohn said:


> The beauty of using something like Word is you have the choice of hundreds of fonts, and you can search around and probably find a pretty close TrueType font match for most number boards.


You don't have to "search" for the font. Highlight the numbers and select the font dropdown menu. The font will change immediately with each tap of the down arrow key. About a minute to traverse all the fonts.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

That's what I mean by "searching", but if you don't find one you like, there are literally thousands of TrueType fonts around. 

Here's one of MANY sites with free TrueType fonts by the hundreds: FonTsner, note the *78365* fonts available.









Searching doesn't have to be confined to the limited selection you have on your computer.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Started the weathering today.


----------



## Norton

UP Font is unique. I was not able to find matching numbers in any word processor or other RR decals. Likewise NYC Sans Serif font is also unique. Heck Lionel can’t even get it right on their latest releases.
Railroad Roman, on the other hand, is ubiquitous so not much problem there.
Pete


----------



## Krieglok

That locomotive looks great! The flanges are so tiny!

I have silver HO UP letter sets from Microscale. I cant remember why I bought them!

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

I bought a MTH DAP Premier PRR L1 2-8-2 a couple years ago. The day it arrived, I placed it on my test track. It looked good, so I powered it up. Right away, I heard a odd snap and the valve gear linkage on the Engineers side dropped out of place. I figured something was wrong with the cylinder, like not drilled out. I posted here about it and received some great ideas for repairs. But, I ended up just putting the engine away.

Fast forward to now. Last night, I pulled the engine out of storage and brought it up to the locomotive shop (my kitchen table) and took it apart. The “motion hanger” was snapped in a 2/3-1/3 break. I put the broken side back up on the frame and engaged all the piston rods and slowly turned the motor by hand. There was no binding, no jamming, nothing that would have damaged the locomotive in regards to motion.










I removed the 2/3s of the casting, still held by the two screws. The break was in a very weak spot. I filed the adjacent edges and surfaces and used JB Weld, reinforced with a piece of sheet brass, to reassemble the part. I clamped it and let it sit for a few hours. After it set up, I removed the clamp and shaved off some of the excess epoxy. The one screw hole was a bit obscured by epoxy, but as I installed the part, it seemed very solid with just one screw. I assembled the valve gear and let the engine sit for another few hours.










This evening, I set up my test track and powered up the engine. It came to life, light and smoke with the dynamo sound purring away. I slowly moved the engine back and fort, watching for any binding. Everything looked smooth. Good to go.










The engine is basically brand new. Only a few minutes on the chronometer and less than 1 mile on the odometer.

At this point, I am thinking the engine was broken in shipping and the damage didn’t occur when I tested it the first time.

Hopefully, as MTH gets their parts site further along, I will be able to purchase a replacement motion hanger. They have them for many other locomotives, so chances are they have one, just not listed yet.

For now, the engine is good but my OCD will be eased with a new, complete hanger!

Tom


----------



## Lehigh74

Nice when a repair that simple can get a nice loco like that back in business. I couldn’t tell from the middle photo what the problem part was. If it doesn’t see much stress, it might last indefinitely.


----------



## Krieglok

It is the part with the cross head screw through it. It is a cast piece. The only stress it would get is if the loco rolled over on its side…

Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

JB-Weld to the rescue again!


----------



## Norton

Tom, that is a common problem and that is the fix. MTH dropped the ball on that one. Another failure point is on MTH Niagaras. The water feed pump under the firemans cab side breaks off. Its cast brass held on by the vertical pipe. Grab it wrong and snap. If you ever go shopping for them check to see if the pump is still there. PSC has a replacement though.

Pete


----------



## Krieglok

Thanks, Pete. I am thinking that if there is a weak spot on a certain locomotive, that part is probably scarce, as they are in need of replacement.

The Niagara is on my future buy list, so I will keep your advice in mind when I look for one…

Tom


----------



## Norton

I am basically done with drivetrain swaps on my Williams Hudson. I posted the results on OGR because I can upload video. The NWSL gearbox finally got me the results I was hoping for.
You can read about here, no need to be a registered user.



https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/topic/taming-the-williams-hudson



Pete


----------



## Krieglok

I missed that thread over there. The skill and workmanship is really impressive to me.

It is interesting that NWSL has made a comeback of sorts. So many of these smaller industries that produce products that skilled people need for their work, are slowly fading away.

I can’t wait to see the end result when the whole package is tied together with detail and paint!

Great work Pete.

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Number boards installed:


----------



## Krieglok

That will be a great looking engine. The decal work is perfect!

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

I am starting my dummy MTH RS3 project. I have the shell stripped and ready to prime after a couple details are added.

This is the engine with the modified steps and pilots to bring them out to the correct position on the frame.

This engine will be painted for Lackawanna, to pair with my powered RS3 with the same road name…

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Krieglok said:


> That will be a great looking engine. The decal work is perfect!
> 
> Tom


Thanks Tom, appreciate the nice comment. I’m almost finished. I actually have completed the final assembly and the locomotive is back together but I want to do a few more final details prior to posting pictures.

Looking forward to your progress on the RS3.

Really enjoy this thread and great to see other folks building stuff!


----------



## 86TA355SR

Locomotive is finished!

Quick review. Airbrushed with Scale Coat paint, decals from various sources (numbers are individual cut and aligned), cab windows/number boards came from a clear plastic container, and weathered with acrylics.
My goal was a “used” locomotive, not an end of life cycle look. 

Before:









After:


----------



## Millstonemike

Purty.


----------



## Norton

Nicely done, subtle weathering not overdone.

Pete


----------



## 86TA355SR

Norton said:


> Nicely done, subtle weathering not overdone.
> 
> Pete


Thank you! Exactly what I wanted to achieve with this model!


----------



## Krieglok

Excellent! The detail really jumps out with the mild weathering. The various lanyards are well done. Just the right size.

The tender looks really cool from above too! I didn’t know the UP used oil burners. Sharp engine!

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Krieglok said:


> Excellent! The detail really jumps out with the mild weathering. The various lanyards are well done. Just the right size.
> 
> The tender looks really cool from above too! I didn’t know the UP used oil burners. Sharp engine!
> 
> Tom


Thanks Tom, I’m just try to be like you, haha! Your efficiency and ability to knock out freight car projects is impressive!

UP had a lot of oil burners, especially their subsidiaries OWR&N, OSL, LA&SL. Of course Pacifics as I modeled, but they also used 2-10-2s, Mountains, and many more.


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Locomotive is finished!
> 
> Quick review. Airbrushed with Scale Coat paint, decals from various sources (numbers are individual cut and aligned), cab windows/number boards came from a clear plastic container, and weathered with acrylics.
> My goal was a “used” locomotive, not an end of life cycle look.
> 
> Before:
> View attachment 568227
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> View attachment 568228
> 
> View attachment 568229
> 
> View attachment 568230
> 
> View attachment 568231


Looks awesome. Great decal work as well!


----------



## lou1985

I've been working on the Premier PS1 ATSF Northern I picked up. I have a PS3 version with a bunch of added detail the PS1 version lacks, so I'm adding those details before I upgrade the electronics. I added a functional extendable stack along with the pneumatic stack motor motor, pop off valves painted, smokebox door painted, bell bracket with air ringer and clapper added, bell and whistle cords run, handrails chemically blackened, cab interior painted, and cab glass added. I'll be stripping the chassis over the weekend and chemically blackening the driver rims.


----------



## Krieglok

Lou, still one of my favorite steam engines. I really have to add one to the collection. You seem to gravitate towards the MTH models. Did Lionel ever make the same model?

Your current project looks interesting. I like the idea of blackening the drivers. Makes the locomotive look more realistic!

Tom


----------



## lou1985

Krieglok said:


> Lou, still one of my favorite steam engines. I really have to add one to the collection. You seem to gravitate towards the MTH models. Did Lionel ever make the same model?
> 
> Your current project looks interesting. I like the idea of blackening the drivers. Makes the locomotive look more realistic!
> 
> Tom


Lionel and MTH have both made scale models of different ATSF Northern classes. Lionel (and 3rd Rail) made the early 3751 class. MTH (and 3rd Rail) made the later 2900 class. The 2900s were larger in every dimension than the 3751 class. I have the latest Legacy release of the 3751 class from Lionel as well as two 2900 class locomotives from MTH. Most of my steam locomotives are MTH Premier because, for awhile, I was getting them cheaper than I could ever find any Lionel model. Besides my MTH SP GS4/GS6 & UP FEF Lionel hasn't made models of the MTH locomotives I have (AT&SF 2900, 3460, 5001, 5011 class, SP AC6, DM&IR M3) so MTH was the way to go. 

I plan on blackening the drivers this weekend. Since I'm using a chemical process I have to remove everything on the chassis to just get it to wheels and frame. It should be much, much more durable than just painting the rims with paint.


----------



## 86TA355SR

lou1985 said:


> …I plan on blackening the drivers this weekend. Since I'm using a chemical process….


Lou,
Can you describe how you do this? I’m very interested and want to try.


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Lou,
> Can you describe how you do this? I’m very interested and want to try.


I'll post up what I do tomorrow after it's done. Basically it's using a chemical blackening solution that is used to blacken fasteners for car restoration. The solution won't damage paint, so it's perfect for this. First step is stripping the chassis bare, which I've done, then degreasing it before dunking it in the solution. My friend Pat came up with this process, and has done it several times, so I'll see how it goes tomorrow.


----------



## Krieglok

My RS3 project continues. After a lot of masking, I primed the hand rails and steps. The Tamiya primer dries quickly. After a few hours, I painted the yellow portions of the handrails and steps.












The body received two new air horns and the shell/cab was primed. The top coat, Scalecoat II Black gives a nice glossy finish, perfect for decaling. The engine frame was also painted.



















Tomorrow, decal work starts. The trucks and pilot will also be assembled…

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

That looks great!


----------



## lou1985

So here's how you blacken steel driver tires on a MTH PS1 locomotive. I borrowed this process from my friend Pat. You'll need:
Black Oxide solution: BLACK OXIDE CONCENTRATE 1 PINT
WD40
A heat gun
400 grit sandpaper
Scotchbrite pad
Toothbrush
Compressed air

Mix up the solution according to the directions. You'll want enough to totally submerge the chassis. A plastic tote is a good container for this purpose.

Fully strip the chassis bare. Degrease it. Get ALL the grease/oil off. When your done with that go back and scuff the driver tires and axle ends with 400 grit sandpaper. Degrease again and wash with Dawn and hot water. Blow off any excess water.

Dunk the chassis in the solution (make sure to wear gloves, it’s an acid after all). You should see the tires and axle ends blacken. Remove the chassis and rub the tires and axle ends with Scotchbrite (blackening will come off). Resubmerge the chassis and use the Toothbrush to agitate the solution into the tires and axle ends. When you're happy with how dark it is rinse the chassis with hot water, blow dry with compressed air.

Get your heat gun nice and warm and start heating the chassis with it. Once the chassis is warm spray it down with WD40. The chassis should be hot enough that the WD40 smokes on contact with the wheels. Let it cool and blow off any extra WD40 with compressed air. Once the chassis is cool heat it again. Let cool. Repeat 2-3 times, blowing off any extra WD40. Once done let the chassis sit for a couple hours and wipe off any remaining WD40.

This process turns this:








Into this:









The heat and WD40 seals the oxide on the surface. Caswell makes a sealer but it isn't electrically conductive, which is not good for wheels. Once you're done this won't rub or chip off like paint. It's basically the equivalent of a factory blackened drive tire.


----------



## 86TA355SR

I like it, thanks Lou, very valuable knowledge.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

That's really cool Lou, a lot of work, but a great result! Being the lazy sort, I'd be tempted to try black cold gun bluing on them. I may have to give that a go...


----------



## lou1985

gunrunnerjohn said:


> That's really cool Lou, a lot of work, but a great result! Being the lazy sort, I'd be tempted to try black cold gun bluing on them. I may have to give that a go...


How long does the gun bluing last/how durable is it/does it conduct electricity? The method I used basically bonds to the surface. It won't rub off and conducts electricity. The only way the oxide is coming off is with mechanical abrasion (i.e. sanding).


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Bluing is pretty rugged, even cold bluing. I wouldn't put it on the tread, as I don't know how well it might conduct, though I tested it in the past and it did read with an ommeter.


----------



## lou1985

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Bluing is pretty rugged, even cold bluing. I wouldn't put it on the tread, as I don't know how well it might conduct, though I tested it in the past and it did read with an ommeter.


Hmm. Might work then. It would at least work on the axle ends and possibly the edges of the wheel tire.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

That was my plan, not to put it on the tread or flanges. If I ever get the time, I will try it. FWIW, I did blacken some rods years ago that way, and AFAIK, they're still black.


----------



## Norton

I would try common gun blue first. I have had good luck with it on trucks and couplers. It may work on wheel plating too. Depends on the plating. Caswell has chemicals that work on harder to darken metals like some stainless and music wire. I always try the simple stuff first.

Pete


----------



## Millstonemike

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Bluing is pretty rugged, even cold bluing. I wouldn't put it on the tread, as I don't know how well it might conduct, though I tested it in the past and it did read with an ommeter.


Found this on ChemEurope.com

_"Historically, razor blades were often blued steel. A non-linear resistance property of the blued steel of razor blades, foreshadowing the same property that would later be discovered in semi-conductor diode junctions, along with the ready availability of blued steel razor blades, led to the use of razor blades as a detector in the crystal set AM radios which were often built by soldiers during World War II."_


----------



## Krieglok

What is that conductive grease or coating that people were using on side rods and such on steam engines? Neo Lube?

Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Krieglok said:


> What is that conductive grease or coating that people were using on side rods and such on steam engines? Neo Lube?


Really messy and rubs off on everything! That would be my last choice!


----------



## Krieglok

Huh. I have a bottle of it I never opened. Everyone used to rave about it…

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

Did a modification on an Atlas scale Buffalo Creek flour car today. I removed the truck bolsters and reinforced the floor. I installed MTH friction bearing trucks. Basically it lowers the car down to a decent level for adding three rail trucks…



















I am also doing small detail additions to my MTH Erie E8. I swapped the pilot and installed a firecracker antenna. A few more bits coming…





















Tom


----------



## Firewood

Now that gets my brain cells firing - nice job! 
Now for one of these diesel/ compressed air models? A German Diesel-Pneumatic Locomotive.
FW


----------



## lou1985

Krieglok said:


> What is that conductive grease or coating that people were using on side rods and such on steam engines? Neo Lube?
> 
> Tom


Oh no don't use that stuff. It's sticky and picks up everything.


----------



## lou1985

ATSF Northern is moving along. Locomotive is mostly done (I realized I forgot to blacken the axle ends on the pilot truck, I'll have to do that). Looks about 100% better than it came from the factory. Hard to tell it started as a PS1 version. I'll tackle the tender next, but that's basically just installing PS3 electronics. Easy stuff.


----------



## lou1985

Krieglok said:


> Did a modification on an Atlas scale Buffalo Creek flour car today. I removed the truck bolsters and reinforced the floor. I installed MTH friction bearing trucks. Basically it lowers the car down to a decent level for adding three rail trucks…
> 
> View attachment 568478
> 
> View attachment 568479
> 
> 
> 
> I am also doing small detail additions to my MTH Erie E8. I swapped the pilot and installed a firecracker antenna. A few more bits coming…
> 
> View attachment 568480
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 568481
> 
> 
> 
> Tom


E8 looks great. The pilot swap really makes a difference.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Boy, if I could make one of those PS/1 models look like that, I'd probably get one and upgrade it to PS/3!


----------



## Krieglok

Lou, that Northern looks like a museum piece! Simply beautiful. Great work.

And thank you guys. I would like to add the more detailed pilot to a few of my E8 locomotives, but MTH seems to be out of them at this time! I may try doing some detail work on the couple spare pilots I have, by adding air hoses and possibly cut levers…

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

Firewood said:


> Now that gets my brain cells firing - nice job!
> Now for one of these diesel/ compressed air models? A German Diesel-Pneumatic Locomotive.
> FW


That is a cool looking locomotive! Interesting concept!

Tom


----------



## Norton

Krieglok said:


> Lou, that Northern looks like a museum piece! Simply beautiful. Great work.
> 
> And thank you guys. I would like to add the more detailed pilot to a few of my E8 locomotives, but MTH seems to be out of them at this time! I may try doing some detail work on the couple spare pilots I have, by adding air hoses and possibly cut levers…
> 
> Tom


Tom, Pretty sure the P&D pilots for the F3 will fit these E8s. They are perfect for the K-Line E8s. Coupler doors are optional. Air and MU lines can be added too.









Pete


----------



## lou1985

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Boy, if I could make one of those PS/1 models look like that, I'd probably get one and upgrade it to PS/3!


I know a guy who can. Only thing is he's out of moveable extension stacks, so you'd be stuck with the PS1 fixed stack .


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Got to have the cool moveable stack.


----------



## Krieglok

Norton said:


> Tom, Pretty sure the P&D pilots for the F3 will fit these E8s. They are perfect for the K-Line E8s. Coupler doors are optional. Air and MU lines can be added too.
> View attachment 568515
> 
> 
> Pete


Those are fixed pilots, right Pete? The look better than the regular MTH ones, with the added rivets along the top…

Tom


----------



## Norton

Krieglok said:


> Those are fixed pilots, right Pete? The look better than the regular MTH ones, with the added rivets along the top…
> 
> Tom


Tom, you get just the pilot. You can mount them to the truck, to the body or to the frame. On the NYC engine they are mounted to the plastic body. I did another K-Line E8 and mounted it to the frame. Both are fixed but mounting to the frame I used screws vs glueing to the shell.
This is the same P&D pilot without the coupler doors.










Pete


----------



## Krieglok

The frame mounted pilot looks great. I will check them out. P&D.

Tom


----------



## Firewood

Krieglok said:


> That is a cool looking locomotive! Interesting concept!
> 
> Tom


Marklin produced an HO version - #37201 Just found out Trix made one too.


----------



## Krieglok

Firewood said:


> Marklin produced an HO version - #37201


Really? I missed that. I have quite a bit of German two rail HO stuff, but I never jumped into the Marklin trains.

It must be quite the model!

Tom


----------



## lou1985

Well the ATSF Northern is done.





















I used a larger speaker than I normally do with this locomotive (giant tender allows for a larger speaker). It's very bassy. The issue is it has enough oomph to cause the front tender truck, mounted below the speaker, to rattle when the whistle is blown. I didn't have the same issue using the same speaker in my PS3 version. The trucks are held on with E-clips on this locomotive, where as the PS3 version has the trucks screwed on. Being that the tender trucks have more wiggle with the E-clip mount they rattle. I'll have to tighten them up a bit to eliminate the rattle.


----------



## Krieglok

Beautiful engine. The action video is really cool. The locomotive sound great too. Lots of whistle action!

Tom


----------



## lou1985

Mostly fixed the rattle. I can eliminate it, but then the trucks are too tight to rotate. It'll probably be fine with a train in tow.


----------



## lou1985

I still haven't wired up my ATSF Mikado and I already added two more projects to the que.

First is a Lionel JLC Challenger. I'm going to reletter/renumber it to Union Pacific and convert the tender from coal to oil. Also upgrade the electronics so it has puffing smoke.

















Next is a MTH Premier E6 A-B set in Union Pacific City of Los Angeles colors. The B unit needs the trucks painted harbor mist gray but other than that it's cosmetically complete. I haven’t decided if I'm going to install PS3 in it or ERR stuff. Depends on what, if any, wiring harness I can scrounge together from my parts bins.

















These two plus the ATSF Mikado wiring project should keep me busy for the cold months. Once all 3 are done I'll have 30 operable locomotives, which is plenty for now. I'll probably stop building locomotives after this and focus on some rolling stock work for a bit. I've got a bunch of passenger cars that need interiors built.


----------



## Krieglok

Been busy with non train projects, but I did finish this car the other day.

It is a MTH commemorative car I stripped and repainted with Scalecoat II boxcar red #2 paint. The G&D decal set came from K4 decals.

Some of you may recall the “Gorre and Daphetid” model railroad built by a fellow named John Allan. He was considered the father of modern scale model railroading. His layout and trains were featured heavily in model railroad publications of the day…


















Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

You're really going crazy with creating new cars Tom. That looks great, I really like the little details in the decals as well. Looks like the MTH club cars are a really good base for custom cars!


----------



## Lehigh74

The G&D box car is pretty cool. I’m thinking there are not too many like that in O scale. I would think it would be more of an HO thing.


----------



## Krieglok

gunrunnerjohn said:


> You're really going crazy with creating new cars Tom. That looks great, I really like the little details in the decals as well. Looks like the MTH club cars are a really good base for custom cars!


Thanks John. The club cars are great as long as they are cheap!




Lehigh74 said:


> The G&D box car is pretty cool. I’m thinking there are not too many like that in O scale. I would think it would be more of an HO thing.


Yes, the G&D was HO but when I saw the decals were available in O scale, I had to do one.

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

A new project. I am adding a passenger generator set to a MTH GP7. It has a ways to go, and some of the work needs to be refined…like the marker light That slipped out of place as it was drying.

A long way to go yet…










The end result will hopefully be a CNJ GP7 in NJDOT colors...












Tom


----------



## Norton

Krieglok said:


> Been busy with non train projects, but I did finish this car the other day.
> 
> It is a MTH commemorative car I stripped and repainted with Scalecoat II boxcar red #2 paint. The G&D decal set came from K4 decals.
> 
> Some of you may recall the “Gorre and Daphetid” model railroad built by a fellow named John Allan. He was considered the father of modern scale model railroading. His layout and trains were featured heavily in model railroad publications of the day…
> 
> View attachment 571069
> 
> View attachment 571070
> 
> 
> Tom


Very cool Tom. John Allen was a hero of mine back in the ‘50s when I first saw his work. He was one of the reasons I switched to HO. One of my life’s regrets was not visiting him when I was out that way in 1972. I think he passed away just a few years later.

Pete


----------



## Lehigh74

Krieglok said:


> A new project. I am adding a passenger generator set to a MTH GP7. It has a ways to go, and some of the work needs to be refined…like the marker light That slipped out of place as it was drying.
> A long way to go yet…
> The end result will hopefully be a CNJ GP7 in NJDOT colors...
> Tom


That’s pretty cool. I have heard of steam generators for passenger trains, but never thought about a separate electric generator on a diesel electric loco for passenger trains. That looks to be brass and I’m guessing it comes as we see it in the photo. Or is it scratch built?


----------



## Krieglok

Thanks Bob.

Only a few railroads used this electrical system on Geeps. It generated straight 120 volts to run lights and fans on coaches. The connection was a huge cord that plugged into the engine by the drop step and into the coaches above the end doorway. There are two generators inside the squared hood that are belt driven from the main engine.

The hood is a kit I picked up from DesPlaines hobby. They thought it was HO but it was listed in their o scale section. Anyway, it turned out to be o scale. The kit is a flat, etched brass with 10 parts. I am not good working etched kits as I am terrible at metal bending.

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

Pete, nice to see people know what this car is about.

I read quite a bit about John Allen in RMC magazine as well as seeing many references to his skills and layout in the numerous model railroad books and instructional manuals I owned as a kid.

It was a natural when I saw the decal set. The next car will be a Virginian and Ohio, by W. Allen McClelland, another noted modeler.









Tom


----------



## seayakbill

Fresh out of the S&Y RR rebuild shop. The first of a few Maersk Auto-loaders.

Bill


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Did you paint those Bill? They look great!


----------



## seayakbill

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Did you paint those Bill? They look great!


GRJ, I bought the racks from a guy that is manufacturing them. The Maersk flatcars are from Lionel. I had 3 of the Maersk flats and I spotted the racks on E-Bay and thought that would make for an interesting auto-loader.

Bill


----------



## Norton

Progress on my Williams 773 upgrade project. This all started with a motor and gearbox swap to slow the engine down. I ended up with a smaller motor that I was able to place further forward and get it out of the cab. Then found the Lionel Vision 700E had a backhead and rear bulkhead that was a perfect fit for this engine. Further research found the 700E steamchest and baker valve gear also dropped right in giving me guides for the valve gear. Lionel Niagara lubricator and Hudson snifter valve completed the chassis. After some more thought I decided to start detailing the shell. 773s are pretty spartan and you realize how much has been left off when you try to put it back on. Everything in bass has been added. Parts are from the 700E, MTH Hudson, Smithsonian junker, and PSC bits. Waiting for a few more items including lagging clamps.


















Pete


----------



## seayakbill

Pete, the 773 is going to be fantastic when finished, terrific modeling.

Bill


----------



## lou1985

Norton said:


> Progress on my Williams 773 upgrade project. This all started with a motor and gearbox swap to slow the engine down. I ended up with a smaller motor that I was able to place further forward and get it out of the cab. Then found the Lionel Vision 700E had a backhead and rear bulkhead that was a perfect fit for this engine. Further research found the 700E steamchest and baker valve gear also dropped right in giving me guides for the valve gear. Lionel Niagara lubricator and Hudson snifter valve completed the chassis. After some more thought I decided to start detailing the shell. 773s are pretty spartan and you realize how much has been left off when you try to put it back on. Everything in bass has been added. Parts are from the 700E, MTH Hudson, Smithsonian junker, and PSC bits. Waiting for a few more items including lagging clamps.
> 
> View attachment 572352
> 
> View attachment 572353
> 
> 
> Pete


I bet drilling all the little holes for the add on parts in a diecast shell was great fun.

Came out nicely.


----------



## Norton

Thanks guys, Lou I chuck my pin vise in a cordless drill. I would only be on the third hole if I was spinning it with my fingers. A sharp drill and a drop of pil help things along. Broke a few though.

Pete


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Pete, I have one of these for drilling tiny holes, it zips right through stuff! Cordless Rotary Tool


----------



## Norton

John, I assume the speed is much less than a Dremel, no? Otherwise it would just burn up drill bits.
My Makita drill actually did well, and I could change bits in seconds. All holes started with an undersize 66 drill to get as close as posible to location, then enlarged.
This is a one time project just to see what is possible, I have no interest in doing another one. Problem is I keep thinking of more stuff to do on it.

Pete


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Pete, it has five speeds, the first step or two is slower than a Dremel, but it's the speed I normally use for most things. It's still probably 1500-2000 RPM on the first step, but it's perfect to save me from having to twirl that pin vise for minutes at a time and develop hand cramps! I haven't cooked any bit yet, and I've drilled quite a few holes with it. For plastic or brass it cuts them like butter, a little slower on diecast and even slower on steel. For diecast or steel, I use some oil to cool the bit, I don't bother on brass as it cuts so fast I'm not there long anyway.


----------



## 86TA355SR

….


----------



## 86TA355SR

…


----------



## Big Ed

Roll onnnnnn, Big Mama, I like the way you move............
Nice.


----------



## Norton

Finishing up my Williams 773 project. Just about ready for paint. Added lagging clamps and a coupler lift bar. The front is another Vision Hudson part. The 773 and Vision Hudson share the same DNA having evolved from the pre war scale Hudson. I likely won’t use that front though as I would have to replace the incorrect headlight and renumber it. I want to keep the Williams 5207 cab number. I would only gain working class lights. Maybe in the future as I can always swap it in.



















Pete


----------



## 86TA355SR

Very nice Pete. Reminds me of the “pilot model” but it‘s much better with the detail parts you added.

Is this the model you repowered?


----------



## Norton

Thank you. Yeah, that motor swap started this whole thing. I keep referring to the pre war 700E and how close it is to the modern copies. There is a nice one on ebay now bringing big bucks. Had I seen that when I started this engine I might have tried to copy that. Too late now as this one has already had number of the original less detailed items replaced and metal carved away like the whistle, bell, and dynamo.

Pete


----------



## 86TA355SR

…


----------



## Norton

Weathering looking great. Good timing as I plan to weather the Hudson though likely in service so not quite as severe.

Pete


----------



## 86TA355SR

Thanks Pete.

I prefer the light weathered look as well, many ”over“ do it IMO. Look forward to your finished model.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Image removed


----------



## Krieglok

The engine looks great! Photography, especially with flash, can give a harsh tone to pictures. Your pics look fine though.

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

Finished up the second run of PRR 40’ cars for GRJ. The whole process held up by delayed deliveries of finishing products...

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Tom, 

Beautiful job. AND you kept your sanity after all those repetitive tasks! 😀


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

86TA355SR said:


> Tom,
> 
> Beautiful job. AND you kept your sanity after all those repetitive tasks! 😀


His sanity may be in jeopardy, I'm boxing up more of them to paint!


----------



## Norton

If this keeps up Tom might want to consider getting one of those paint jet printers. Put the shell in a jig and press a button.

Pete


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I'm surprised some custom painters don't have some really automated tools like that.


----------



## Norton

Got the 773 repainted. Still a few details to attend to like matching the sheen on the tender and steamchest but the big stuff is behind me. At some point I will weather it but I want to get to some other projects waiting in the wings.



















Pete


----------



## Krieglok

The Hudson looks great. I like the NYC font on the tender.

Tom


----------



## Big Ed

86TA355SR said:


> …


Why did you remove the pictures??????

Edit, Hmmmm he took a lot more posts and made them blank??????


----------



## Krieglok

My latest project was a Weaver Christmas car I stripped and repainted into an exciting and dynamic steam era “Monon” paint scheme. It was a little break from the string of cars I have been doing for GRJ.

This car was a nightmare of final finishing. I decaled it when it was glossy and coated it after with gloss clear. The decal borders were jumping out, so I tried using a flat coat of Scalecoat. It made it worse. Finally, I gloss coated it again and let it dry. The final coat was Testors Dulcote, which worked perfectly.…finally!

Just one of those cranky cars…

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Tom,
The final result is great, it looks like decals are “painted” on the model. 

A coat of gloss often works wonders, not just in your workshop but with others too…👍

Saw a Monon boxcar earlier today, near a train activity a few hours drive from us. Lots of old rolling stock on the rails. And, a lot of fun.


----------



## Krieglok

Thanks 86T!

I was ready to give upon this car. It is a very plain scheme, so how could I mess that up? Lol. Interesting to still see Monon marked equipment. They went out of business so long ago. The old stuff is just getting rare to see…

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Krieglok said:


> Thanks 86T!
> 
> I was ready to give upon this car. It is a very plain scheme, so how could I mess that up? Lol. Interesting to still see Monon marked equipment. They went out of business so long ago. The old stuff is just getting rare to see…
> 
> Tom


Haha, it’s always those “simple” jobs that give headaches. Years ago I did a solid scheme, disaster. Paint issues, bad clear coat, decals, etc. could’ve painted three things with the time spent! 

The Monon car was part of a scenic railway. I should’ve mentioned that earlier but forgot. I have a soft spot for Monon stuff.

Anyway, nice work on the car, it looks great and no flaws apparent. You do excellent work!


----------



## Krieglok

Thanks again! I have another set of more modern Monon decals to use, hopefully on the next project!

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

I just finished another boxcar. This an older pattern boxcar that was put out by Weaver at some point. It arrived undecorated, so I primed it and painted it with Scalecoat II Boxcar Red#3. The decals are an older set of K4 decals that were printed on white decal paper.










The older K4 decal sets presented the difficulty of seeing the white printing. I had to use a light source at an angle to see the printing for trimming purposes. K4 now prints their decal sets on light blue paper, making trimming much, much easier.

The paint left a semi gloss finish that the decals set well upon. The final coat was Testors Dulcote.

Lettered for the Peoria and Eastern, a New York Central Lines subsidiary…










Tom


----------



## lou1985

I finally got that MTH Premier Mikado I repainted for Santa Fe running. I had to source some PS3 boiler and tender boards for it. I didn't have a PS3 tach mount for a Pittman motor so I used a PS2 tach mount and put it on the bottom of the motor then mounted the PS3 tach to it. It reads the flywheel facing up but works fine. Put a ball bearing 9234 Pittman in it as well. The little locomotive swallows that big Pittman fine.

















Runs well. It's torquey too. Handled a heavy mail train with ease.


----------



## lou1985

In more unnecessary modifications I removed the factory Chinese knockoff Pittman in my Premier PS3 SP Cab Forward and replaced it with a ball bearing 9234 Pittman. Was it necessary? No. But I had a spare Pittman so why not make the Cab Forward better?


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Lou, have you taken one of the Chinese Pittman clones apart to see how it's constructed?


----------



## lou1985

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Lou, have you taken one of the Chinese Pittman clones apart to see how it's constructed?


I haven't yet. I'll probably pop this one open and see. It does have ball bearing end caps which is nice. Externally it's almost identical to a Pittman. My biggest complaint is the motor is noticeably louder than a Pittman. I can't hear a Pittman spinning when a locomotive is running at speed, but I could hear this knockoff one slightly which bugged me.


----------



## Jetguy

lou1985 said:


> I haven't yet. I'll probably pop this one open and see. It does have ball bearing end caps which is nice. Externally it's almost identical to a Pittman. My biggest complaint is the motor is noticeably louder than a Pittman. I can't hear a Pittman spinning when a locomotive is running at speed, but I could hear this knockoff one slightly which bugged me.


I have and made notes:
Appears to be compatible with Pittman parts- specifically replacement brush assemblies.
Fiber washer on motor shaft at commutator just like genuine Pittman prevents stray brush motor short as in the Canon motors.


----------



## Jetguy

lou1985 said:


> My biggest complaint is the motor is noticeably louder than a Pittman. I can't hear a Pittman spinning when a locomotive is running at speed, but I could hear this knockoff one slightly which bugged me


Agreed, the one I have out came out of a Premier Hudson that blew up the boiler board. I bought the engine at York for 150 back Fall 2019 which they said it did not run. It ran at the hotel after buying. It blew up a week later when put on the test track at the hobby shop. I replaced the board and noticed the engine just never seemed right so I ended up putting one of the good ball bearing Pittman swaps into it. I couldn't find anything wrong with the motor, but it was noisy so it's just in the motor pile.


----------



## lou1985

Jetguy said:


> I have and made notes:
> Appears to be compatible with Pittman parts- specifically replacement brush assemblies.
> Fiber washer on motor shaft at commutator just like genuine Pittman prevents stray brush motor short as in the Canon motors.
> View attachment 574172
> 
> View attachment 574173


Looks virtually identical except the end cap is slightly different. The SPG motor MTH was using prior to this black can one was a dead nuts copy of the 9434 Pittman, even down to having the same end caps.


----------



## Norton

Finally got some correct Roller Bearing Rods for my Lionel Commodore Vanderbilt. Lionel made both the early and late versions of the CV. When 5344 was streamlined it had its original spoke wheels and plain bearing rods but shortly after it was given Scullin Disks and Roller Bearing rods. Lionel’s Scullin model retained the plain bearing rods. Lionel Niagara rods were heated and stretched and spacers and bushings fabricated. Might be the only CV model out there like this.










Pete


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

It'll certainly be the only one with s.t.r.e.t.c.h.e.d rods! 
Lookin' good, amazing what you can do with a little force!


----------



## Norton

Three railing a Sunset NYC K5 Pacific. AFAIK no one has done a three rail version and repeated requests to 3rd Rail have fallen on deaf ears.
After installing some K-Line Hudson drivers on the Sunset axles I found the flanges were out of guage by .040” so the stepped axles were cut in and .020” milled off both sides of the frame.
A while back I tried installing the Sunset shell on a MTH USRA Pacific frame but the steamchest was made to fit a smaller smokebox and no simple way to make it fit. I still have add brake shoe mounts then it will get fitted together to see how it operates.










I picked this up a few years ago. It was pretty much a wreck. Parts damaged or missing. Boiler painted with a wrinkle finish and frame painted with a brush. All stripped now. Its not like a museum piece is being trashed.










Pete


----------



## lou1985

Norton said:


> Three railing a Sunset NYC K5 Pacific. AFAIK no one has done a three rail version and repeated requests to 3rd Rail have fallen on deaf ears.
> After installing some K-Line Hudson drivers on the Sunset axles I found the flanges were out of guage by .040” so the stepped axles were cut in and .020” milled off both sides of the frame.
> A while back I tried installing the Sunset shell on a MTH USRA Pacific frame but the steamchest was made to fit a smaller smokebox and no simple way to make it fit. I still have add brake shoe mounts then it will get fitted together to see how it operates.
> 
> View attachment 574408
> 
> 
> I picked this up a few years ago. It was pretty much a wreck. Parts damaged or missing. Boiler painted with a wrinkle finish and frame painted with a brush. All stripped now. Its not like a museum piece is being trashed.
> 
> View attachment 574409
> 
> 
> Pete


I see you're going about the 2 to 3 rail conversion the hard way. Impressive. Will you have to mill the chassis for pickup rollers?


----------



## Norton

Probably Lou but haven’t thought about that yet. It shouldn’t be too bad with the frame now bare. I want to make sure the valve gear and crosshead clears first. Moving the drivers inboard will help there.
I tried the “easy way” first but no soap.
Pete


----------



## lou1985

I did some work on that UP COLA E6 A-B set. I painted the B unit trucks Scalecoat harbor mist gray, as they were silver when I got the unit. The Scalecoat harbor mist gray seems to have less brown in it than what MTH used from the factory but it's close enough for truck side frames.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Lou, 

The E6s look so much better with gray trucks! I’ve always liked Gray over silver.

Aaron


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Lou,
> 
> The E6s look so much better with gray trucks! I’ve always liked Gray over silver.
> 
> Aaron


UP diesels had gray trucks up till 1955. That's when the switched to silver. These COLA E6s lost the COLA paint by the time the silver trucks came around, so I had to correct the B unit.

I cobbled these together from a group of parts. The A unit chassis had the proper gray fuel tank and trucks but the B unit had a gray fuel tank and silver trucks. Easy enough to change with a little paint.


----------



## 86TA355SR

In the paint shop now:










Progress set back-knocked a pump off while handling it. Short version-machined a new/better bracket and soldered in place. 










I needed to save the cab data, the decals I’m using don‘t have 63” info. So, I carefully masked the data info, then removed the cab number. During the locomotive repaint I’ll mask it, and feather in new paint aiming airbrush away from mask (prevents “hard edge”). After cab number decals set, if necessary a quick blend with airbrush and a perfect match. It’s a great technique for saving markings.










Unlike the last model, this will be lightly weathered with simple paint fade and some dirt.


----------



## lou1985

Good luck with the paint blending. That's always my least favorite part. I always find some edge when I do it, and it drives me nuts.


----------



## 86TA355SR

I hear you Lou. 

last time I didn’t mask, I was able to gently feather with airbrush. Probably should’ve done that this time, the verdict is still to be decided. I will say the SC paint I choose is not a close match, so we’ll see what I can do. weathering will help blend.


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> I hear you Lou.
> 
> last time I didn’t mask, I was able to gently feather with airbrush. Probably should’ve done that this time, the verdict is still to be decided. I will say the SC paint I choose is not a close match, so we’ll see what I can do. weathering will help blend.


Did you have to sand the old numbers off? Usually being gentle with lacquer thinner will take printed on/painted on numbers off without damaging the paint below on metal models. That's how I remove numbers/lettering on metal shells.


----------



## 86TA355SR

lou1985 said:


> Did you have to sand the old numbers off? Usually being gentle with lacquer thinner will take printed on/painted on numbers off without damaging the paint below on metal models. That's how I remove numbers/lettering on metal shells.


Yes, I tried all the normal tricks and no love, haha!

Finished paint today, it’s in my paint oven now.


----------



## lou1985

Ah nuts. At least you tried the easy way first.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Image removed


----------



## Millstonemike

Nice, what's a paint oven?


----------



## Jetguy

Well, not exciting or anything and not worthy of a picture, but repaired my 2031090 B&O Legacy EM-1 whistle steam smoke motor that developed a bad segment in the armature and would not self start after stopping. In other words, the fan worked at home. Took it to club, and the whistle steam would generate smoke, but not blow it at all, even with the fill cap removed- it was not a bubble block. So today, pulled the smoke unit, tested with 2V source, fan was basically open circuit, then bumped the impeller to rotate and the fan spins. Tested it over and over and confirmed for sure a dead segment. Replaced with a new one from the parts bin. This makes the second Lionel in a few months to have this exact fault, the previous example was the earlier VisionLine 2-10-10-2.


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Fresh from paint oven, decal and finish next week.
> 
> View attachment 575095
> 
> View attachment 575096
> 
> View attachment 575094


Nice finish. What paint are you using?


----------



## 86TA355SR

lou1985 said:


> Nice finish. What paint are you using?


Scalecoat, airbrush.



Millstonemike said:


> Nice, what's a paint oven?


Dries paint-works well. Somewhere earlier in this thread I posted a picture.


----------



## lou1985

Well before I start changing the lettering on the Rio Grande JLC Challenger I picked up to UP I wanted to get the mechanicals squared up. Basically the issue was the smoke unit and number of chuffs. From the factory these had 2 chuffs a revolution and a continuously running smoke fan. I changed the chuff cam from the factory 2 lobe to a 4 lobe cam. I installed another cherry switch next to the one that generated the chuff sound to control the smoke unit fan. @Norton was able to give me instructions on how to wire the smoke fan to the cherry switch so it would short the fan motor, making distinct puffs. I also removed the sock Lionel put around the resistor in the smoke unit from the factory, repacked the batting, and enlarged the smoke fan air intake hole to 1/4". Pretty simple 4 chuffs a revolution (double chuffs at low speed because it's an articulated) and puffing fan smoke. Much better than stock.


----------



## 86TA355SR

That’s awesome, sounds great with the new 4 chuffs.


----------



## Krieglok

Lots of impressive modeling and electronics! Way beyond my abilities!

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Krieglok said:


> Lots of impressive modeling and electronics! Way beyond my abilities!
> 
> Tom


Haha, says Tom, the freight car master painter!


----------



## Krieglok

86TA355SR said:


> Haha, says Tom, the freight car master painter!


Heh..Thank you. I am in hiatus while we restore order to my house after the holidays and some room remodeling…

Tom


----------



## lou1985

Continued some work on the JLC Challenger project today. Relettered/renumbered the locomotive from Rio Grande 3803 to Union Pacific 3977. I decaled the cab and cleared it. I actually blended to clear to match the sheen of the factory Lionel paint. I only cleared where I decaled and blended/feathered the clear in. Can't even tell the side of the cab isn't factory.

















I started work on the drop in oil bunker to convert the tender from coal to oil (UP 3977 was oil fired). Got the basics roughed in. Have to add a few more details and rivets before I paint it and install it on the tender. Then I have to decal the tender for Union Pacific and clear it, so still a bit more to get this done.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

That's looking great Lou, nice work! How did you do the number boards?


----------



## 86TA355SR

Lou,

Excellent work, beautiful model. Really can appreciate the effort to match factory sheen, not easy to do. 

How did you attach the UP shield on smoke box?

Are you going to add the data decals under the cab number? Really add to the overall look when complete.

Lionel did 3977 twice in TTG/Yellow (JLC/VL), I like your choice of number in black, truly a unique model when done.

The tender conversion to oil is fantastic. 

The UP Challenger is one of my favorite locomotives. I’ve modified several into different versions.


----------



## lou1985

gunrunnerjohn said:


> That's looking great Lou, nice work! How did you do the number boards?


I ordered the parts from Lionel. They had the number boards for 3977 in stock, so I took the easy way out.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

lou1985 said:


> I ordered the parts from Lionel. They had the number boards for 3977 in stock, so I took the easy way out.


Smart move if they're available!


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Lou,
> 
> Excellent work, beautiful model. Really can appreciate the effort to match factory sheen, not easy to do.
> 
> How did you attach the UP shield on smoke box?
> 
> Are you going to add the data decals under the cab number? Really add to the overall look when complete.
> 
> Lionel did 3977 twice in TTG/Yellow (JLC/VL), I like your choice of number in black, truly a unique model when done.
> 
> The tender conversion to oil is fantastic.
> 
> The UP Challenger is one of my favorite locomotives. I’ve modified several into different versions.


The UP shield is a Lionel part. I just swapped it in.

UP steam decals are hard to find so I had these made out of very thin sign vinyl. The data under the cab windows is too small to be cut with a vinyl cutter so I'm omitting them. Otherwise I would have included the data numbers. 

I purposely chose this number as no one has yet made 3977 in black, with an oil tender, and no smoke deflectors. I'm not a huge fan of TTG or smoke deflectors on Challengers.


----------



## 86TA355SR

lou1985 said:


> UP steam decals are hard to find so I had these made out of very thin sign vinyl. The data under the cab windows is too small to be cut with a vinyl cutter so I'm omitting them. Otherwise I would have included the data numbers.
> 
> …. I'm not a huge fan of TTG or smoke deflectors on Challengers….


I‘ll look through my decal stash tonight, I may have Challenger data decals. If I do I’ll mail them to you.

Only a few Challengers were equipped with deflectors and in TTG, but it’s been way over done by the O scale manufacturers, opinion. However, even fewer were black with deflectors, one was 3967. So, Lionel was correct when it produced the original VL Challenger circa 2010, which BTW is a very nice model.


----------



## 86TA355SR

…


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> I‘ll look through my decal stash tonight, I may have Challenger data decals. If I do I’ll mail them to you.
> 
> Only a few Challengers were equipped with deflectors and in TTG, but it’s been way over done by the O scale manufacturers, opinion. However, even fewer were black with deflectors, one was 3967. So, Lionel was correct when it produced the original VL Challenger circa 2010, which BTW is a very nice model.


Thanks for the offer but no worries. I already cleared the cab so I'm not doing it again .

I'd agree that the TTG ones are far overdone. I couldn't locate a black oil fired version for a long time, only the TTG ones. I got this Rio Grande version for stupid cheap so I figured it would make a great base to modify into what I wanted.


----------



## lou1985

I bought some stuff from the Cabin Fever MTH warehouse auction that ended NYE. Stuff showed up today. All of this stuff was about $300.

Chicago and Northwestern E4 Hudson. Missing the pilot truck but otherwise cosmetically mint. Has most of its wiring harness except for the chassis to boiler shell harness. I should be able to assemble that from my parts bins as well as the pilot truck. No boards but I can scrounge those up. Has a 9434 Pittman and all its driveline though. All in all a steal.









Santa Fe 5011 class Texas. Wire harness intact. Most missing trim in the box. The stuff that isn't I have in my parts bins. Needs a worm, motor mount, flywheel, and motor, but I have those as well. Needs a board and paint. Another steal and easy project. 









GS4 boiler/tender shells. I have the chassis/driveline/wire harness for these. Need boards. Plan is to do the deskirted half Daylight with this.









First I have to finish the UP Challenger tender and then wire up my COLA E6s. But after that I'll have projects for a bit.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Nice haul Lou, should be able to build some nice engines there.  I have the C&NW E4 Hudson, it's a looker. It's not a road I regularly buy, but I just really liked this particular locomotive.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Started decals.

More exciting is my trip to HobbyTown today. Never been before, I went because they had some Tamiya items in stock, needed ASAP. It’s an awesome store, tons of speciality stuff I’ve been searching for. Best part was NOT paying shipping, haha!

Stopped by the dollar store and bought some great small mixing bottles, even have screw on caps- perfect for custom paint blends/washes. Next was HL, 50% off sale on brushes, bought a LOT of those for my weathering project/oils. 

A great day indeed!

Aaron


----------



## Norton

lou1985 said:


> I ordered the parts from Lionel. They had the number boards for 3977 in stock, so I took the easy way out.


I found a lot of the Lionel and MTH Big Boy parts are virtually the same including the headlight and shield. The number boards, not so much as they mount differently.

Pete


----------



## lou1985

Norton said:


> I found a lot of the Lionel and MTH Big Boy parts are virtually the same including the headlight and shield. The number boards, not so much as they mount differently.
> 
> Pete


Although similar looking I've noticed the smokebox castings are totally different.


----------



## lou1985

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Nice haul Lou, should be able to build some nice engines there.  I have the C&NW E4 Hudson, it's a looker. It's not a road I regularly buy, but I just really liked this particular locomotive.


The CNW E4 looked neat so I put in a really low ball bid on the thing and won it. Wasn't expecting to either. I have no passenger cars for it to pull. Seems that it mostly pulled heavyweights or secondary trains. CNW heavyweights are pretty rare on the ground though, so I'd have to buy some and paint my own. These things never really pulled the green & yellow lightweight CNW cars, and I think it would look odd doing so. Protocraft makes CNW heavyweight decals, so painting some up shouldn't be too hard.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Yep, if I ever see some C&NW passenger cars I'll grab them, but until that day that one is mostly a shelf queen.  It might get to pull some freight cars a time or two...


----------



## 86TA355SR

Tom said a few posts ago he had a difficult time with a model. I jokingly say this has been mine…

Knocked a lot of parts off the boiler but the decals were a PITA! Fortunately, one of the offenders isn’t real noticeable & with some paint will blend nicely.


----------



## Krieglok

Looks great from here, 86T!

I have been tied up recently, so all this creativity is getting me anxious to get going on the four or five projects I started before Christmas.

I also have a couple MTH RS3s the reposition the steps on. Easy work, just takes time…

Tom


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> View attachment 575599
> 
> 
> Tom said a few posts ago he had a difficult time with a model. I jokingly say this has been mine…
> 
> Knocked a lot of parts off the boiler but the decals were a PITA! Fortunately, one of the offenders isn’t real noticeable & with some paint will blend nicely.


I'm not seeing the busted parts, so that's good.


----------



## lou1985

A little lacquer thinner, decals, clear coat and what once was Rio Grande is now Union Pacific. I'm still working on the oil bunker top but the rest of the Challenger tender is done, finish wise.

















I rummaged around in my parts bins and found a pilot truck for that CNW Hudson I just picked up. This thing has much more of a funky Art Deco vibe than my ATSF Blue Goose Hudson. It's kinda space ship like with all those front lights.


----------



## Jetguy

lou1985 said:


> CNW Hudson
> View attachment 575650


FWIW, this was the first Premier engine I picked up at a show in fall of 2018. I got lucky and got the PS2 3V variant. Again, just when I was starting, before I knew 1/10th of what I know today, I got that engine and 5 matching Premier cars for under $400 at a show locally. The club has the PS1 variant I found out later but no cars. In fact, this engine what might have really drawn me into the hobby and a benchmark for details and expectations of all future purchases. I'm not saying it's perfect or a scale rivet counter- hopefully it comes across what I mean though.


----------



## Norton

That CNW Hudson is a looker. I think there is one at Stouts now but I don’t need to add another roadname to the roster, especially one with little rolling stock to go with it.

Pete


----------



## lou1985

Norton said:


> That CNW Hudson is a looker. I think there is one at Stouts now but I don’t need to add another roadname to the roster, especially one with little rolling stock to go with it.
> 
> Pete


Yeah that's kinda the bummer. Finding CNW heavyweights isn't that easy. Protocraft has CNW heavyweight decals though. I figure I'll probably have to pick up a set of heavyweights on the cheap and repaint them.


----------



## lou1985

Well the work on the JLC Challenger is done. Started out as a coal fired Rio Grande version. 

















Relettered to Union Pacific 3977 and changed to oil fired. Installed a 4 lobe chuff cam, extra switch to control the smoke unit fan, and rebuilt the smoke unit.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Great job converting the tender, that looks like a factory job!


----------



## lou1985

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Great job converting the tender, that looks like a factory job!


The worst part are those rivet decals. It's a pain to get them straight.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Excellent craftsmanship as always!

Great job Lou!


----------



## lou1985

Well I finished up the COLA E6 AB set that needed boards. I picked up the trailing A unit and B unit from the MTH Premier COLA set that came out in the early 2000s. Both pieces were mint but the A unit lacked any boards but had wiring for the slave board. I have a bunch of PS2 5V harness connectors from other projects in my parts bin so I combined them with the harness in the locomotive along with a tach sensor. With a little repining and some soldering I was able to cobble together a harness. I added a PS32 board with 5V connectors and a speaker. I modified a Premier PS3 E unit sound set with COLA PFA announcements and ta da it was done.


----------



## Krieglok

Very attractive AB set. Classic UP…

Tom


----------



## Lehigh74

The E6 looks very sharp. But with the A unit pouring smoke out, the B unit just doesn't look right with no smoke.


----------



## 86TA355SR

…


----------



## Norton

You guys are on roll. Great work here!

Pete


----------



## lou1985

Lehigh74 said:


> The E6 looks very sharp. But with the A unit pouring smoke out, the B unit just doesn't look right with no smoke.


B unit has no electronics, so no smoke. Doesn't both me. I only ran the smoke for the video. Otherwise I never turn the smoke units on in my diesels.


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Started weathering today.
> 
> View attachment 576011
> 
> 
> Oil paint for the faded paint look, prior to blending.
> 
> View attachment 576012
> 
> 
> After blending & ready for paint oven. Will let cure thoroughly, spray clear, and on to next phase of weathering. Probably add some white near cab to represent more water deposits, common on UP.
> 
> View attachment 576013


Looking good. Who made that model of the UP Pacific?


----------



## 86TA355SR

Lou,

The locomotive is a modified Sunset Mike.


----------



## Lehigh74

lou1985 said:


> B unit has no electronics, so no smoke. Doesn't both me. I only ran the smoke for the video. Otherwise I never turn the smoke units on in my diesels.


I don’t run smoke too much either, but I had a U30C that smoked big time and it bothered me that the matching dummy was smokeless. John helped me out adding smoke to the dummy.
ADDING SMOKE TO MTH U30C DUMMY | Model Train Forum


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Lou,
> 
> The locomotive is a modified Sunset Mike, tender is OMI with PSC trucks, custom painted/numbered by myself.
> 
> Aaron


Looking back I see the Mikado chassis. Duh. I thought it was still that UP Pacific you were working on previously. 

Tender came out nice. What decals did you end up using, as I don't see any film. I try and use Microscale decals, as I can easily hide the film because it's so thin. Other brands not so much. If I need custom decals I get them made by the guy I know who has an automotive decal shop. He makes them out of super thin automotive vinyl that comforms to rivets. They basically apply like dry transfers (burnish them on). I clear over them because at O scale size they are delicate and can be knocked off if you're not careful. Not an issue on a car but a problem with trains. I did the Challenger with his decals.


----------



## lou1985

Lehigh74 said:


> I don’t run smoke too much either, but I had a U30C that smoked big time and it bothered me that the matching dummy was smokeless. John helped me out adding smoke to the dummy.
> ADDING SMOKE TO MTH U30C DUMMY | Model Train Forum


Thanks for the link. I'm going to leave the dummy alone though. Like I said I just ran the smoke for the video. I never run smoke in my diesels. Steam all the time but diesels no. If this E6 didn't already have a smoke unit in it I never would have bothered sourcing one to install.


----------



## 86TA355SR

lou1985 said:


> Looking back I see the Mikado chassis. Duh. I thought it was still that UP Pacific you were working on previously.
> 
> Tender came out nice. What decals did you end up using, as I don't see any film. I try and use Microscale decals, as I can easily hide the film because it's so thin. Other brands not so much. If I need custom decals I get them made by the guy I know who has an automotive decal shop. He makes them out of super thin automotive vinyl that comforms to rivets. They basically apply like dry transfers (burnish them on). I clear over them because at O scale size they are delicate and can be knocked off if you're not careful. Not an issue on a car but a problem with trains. I did the Challenger with his decals.


Thanks, I’ve enjoyed working on the tender. Focused on matching the prototype photo I have, it’s progressing nicely.

Decals are Champ (I use MS when needed, font is slightly different) set with solva-set, on Pledge “Revive It” acrylic floor gloss (Wax?). I’ve started mixing my own clear coats using Tamiya/Pledge-I can fine ”tune” the sheen for satin/dull coat. Plus, the acrylics allow coverage/seal of lacquer paints without altering my previous work. 

Wish I had access to your vinyl guy, great for you!


----------



## 86TA355SR

The boiler, cab, and running gear are about 95% done.

The prototype picture I’m working from is a 1946 lightly weathered locomotive.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Images removed.


----------



## Norton

Plodding along on three railing my Sunset NYC K5 Pacific. Got bogged down quartering drivers. Finally reworked my NWSL quartering tool. NWSL offers separate sale axle supports. I don’t have any as you have to order a size specific to the axle diameter and its unlikely I would have to use them again.
The “centering“ cones, (in quotes because they don't have enough pressure to center the wheel) I found to be useless. Finally made my own centers to fit the 5mm wheel hole. That works and my drivers now turn freely when coupled together. Brass are the homemade ones.









Still a ton of work to do so engine pics will have to wait.

Pete


----------



## Krieglok

86TA355SR said:


> View attachment 576363
> 
> View attachment 576364
> View attachment 576365
> 
> 
> Fresh from the paint shop….!
> 
> Awaiting builder plates from PFS, final item.


Beautiful work 86T. It is basically a work of art! It must look great pulling a string of cars!



Norton said:


> Plodding along on three railing my Sunset NYC K5 Pacific. Got bogged down quartering drivers. Finally reworked my NWSL quartering tool. NWSL offers separate sale axle supports. I don’t have any as you have to order a size specific to the axle diameter and its unlikely I would have to use them again.
> The “centering“ cones, (in quotes because they don't have enough pressure to center the wheel) I found to be useless. Finally made my own centers to fit the 5mm wheel hole. That works and my drivers now turn freely when coupled together. Brass are the homemade ones.
> 
> View attachment 576369
> 
> Still a ton of work to do so engine pics will have to wait.
> 
> Pete


Interesting tool. My skills are pretty much limited to screw drivers…lol. Curious to see how the tool looks when it is set up on a locomotive.

Tom


----------



## Norton

Tom, it can be used on engines with axles through the frame but that frame has to be pretty well stripped. It was designed for wheelsets that can be removed from a frame assembled.
This is a typical setup with the axle supports which I do not have. Close fitting studs are screwed into the rod bolt holes and placed in the slots in the quarterer.









Pete


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> View attachment 576363
> 
> View attachment 576364
> View attachment 576365
> 
> 
> Fresh from the paint shop….!
> 
> Awaiting builder plates from PFS, final item.


That came out nicely. For some reason that coal pile came out especially nice. Looks more natural than most factory coal piles.


----------



## 86TA355SR

lou1985 said:


> That came out nicely. For some reason that coal pile came out especially nice. Looks more natural than most factory coal piles.


Thank you.

Coal load is my own creation, pink foam sanded to shape, added “coal”. Normally use black roof granules, airbrush highlight with different blacks-grimy, flat, matte, & a bit of satin clear in spots. 

Aaron


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Thank you.
> 
> Coal load is my own creation, pink foam sanded to shape, added “coal”. Normally use black roof granules, airbrush highlight with different blacks-grimy, flat, matte, & a bit of satin clear in spots.
> 
> Aaron


Ah neat. I'm surprised you don't use real coal though.

I'm usually ripping out factory coal loads to convert stuff to oil fired.


----------



## lou1985

I repainted a K-Line PRR Pullman to ATSF colors. Decals are from Protocraft. I've got another one to do as well. First one came out pretty good.


----------



## Krieglok

Nice! They make great cars. I have a set of NYC that have the same silhouette windows. I did repaint a bunch of MTH Premier cars into Erie green. There were Santa Fe green before that!

Did you repaint the roof or did you mask it off?

Tom


----------



## lou1985

Krieglok said:


> Nice! They make great cars. I have a set of NYC that have the same silhouette windows. I did repaint a bunch of MTH Premier cars into Erie green. There were Santa Fe green before that!
> 
> Did you repaint the roof or did you mask it off?
> 
> Tom


Thanks. I masked off the roof when painting the car sides. I cleared the roof when I cleared the car after decals though. It cut down the shine a bit. I used Tamiya TS-5 olive drab from a rattle can for this project. It's pretty close to Pullman green but maybe a hair lighter. 

The only issue I had was removing the lettering on the cars. 90% alcohol didn't do anything to the lettering. Whatever K-Line used for the gold lettering was pretty damn tough. I ended up having to wet sand the lettering off with 1200 grit sandpaper. I'm going to try and pick up some Testors ELO to try on the lettering for the next car and see if that works to remove it.


----------



## Norton

A little more work on the Sunset K5. Actually more time spent on fixing and replacing parts on the poorly soldered brass parts but making progress. Its running now with a working smoke unit and cam driven 4 chuffs. All axles have three rail wheels. Two pickup rollers on the engine and one on the tender. Plan is to get some run time on it and keep an eye on parts trying fall off.










Pete


----------



## Magic

Norton if you're expecting parts to fall off some video would be nice.  

Good work on that loco, looking just great.

Magic


----------



## Krieglok

lou1985 said:


> Thanks. I masked off the roof when painting the car sides. I cleared the roof when I cleared the car after decals though. It cut down the shine a bit. I used Tamiya TS-5 olive drab from a rattle can for this project. It's pretty close to Pullman green but maybe a hair lighter.
> 
> The only issue I had was removing the lettering on the cars. 90% alcohol didn't do anything to the lettering. Whatever K-Line used for the gold lettering was pretty damn tough. I ended up having to wet sand the lettering off with 1200 grit sandpaper. I'm going to try and pick up some Testors ELO to try on the lettering for the next car and see if that works to remove it.


I used sandpaper and a fine nail buffer to remove the lettering and numbers. Since the old color was similar to the new color, I didn’t remove any paint other than the lettering.



Norton said:


> A little more work on the Sunset K5. Actually more time spent on fixing and replacing parts on the poorly soldered brass parts but making progress. Its running now with a working smoke unit and cam driven 4 chuffs. All axles have three rail wheels. Two pickup rollers on the engine and one on the tender. Plan is to get some run time on it and keep an eye on parts trying fall off.
> 
> View attachment 578148
> 
> 
> Pete


The Engine looks nice and busy, detail wise. I always liked the Elesco Feed water systems. They add a brutish look to the engine…

Tom


----------



## Norton

Magic said:


> Norton if you're expecting parts to fall off some video would be nice.
> 
> Good work on that loco, looking just great.
> 
> Magic


I have video but no way to post it here. No youtube or vimeo account. I may post it somewhere else with a link here.

Tom, the Elesco heater and all its pipes will pose quite a challenge when it comes time to paint it.

Pete


----------



## Krieglok

An easy project with a Crown/Weaver 40’ Boxcar. Painted for Toronto, Hamilton and Buffalo, the car was painted yellow with a black roof and ends. The real cars also had black doors, so I popped them out and gave them a shot of Scalecoat II engine black. I added weights to bring the car up to a more preferable weight…

A small improvement and easy project…

Tom


----------



## Midnight Goat

I've been going through and repairing a lot of my dads conventional trains that he left me from my childhood lately. Some really softball repairs like replacing the truck and mount on a hopper, fixing the mechanism on a Giraffe operating box car to more difficult repairs like replacing the shoe on an operating horse car. I've purchased a lot of more modern items in recent years which have been awesome but I've really enjoyed digging into the older stuff. Makes me feel connected to my dad while also bonding with my kids who enjoy some of the cooler operating items. We got the operating satellite car hooked up and my son thinks it's the coolest thing ever. Also been wrestling with my TMCC F3 that I bought a few years ago. Working for the most part now with a new cruise commander board but still trying to work out a few kinks with the strobe and brake sounds.


----------



## lou1985

I repainted another PRR heavyweight to ATSF. I've now got two for my mixed heavyweight/lightweight Grand Canyon consist.









I've got 6 more PRR heavyweight cars to repaint into CNW going forward. I picked them up to run behind the CNW E4 Hudson I picked up.


----------



## Krieglok

Great looking car. I like the silhouette windows!

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

Did some flat car modifications. I started with a K-Line 8 axle flat car. I wanted to model a PRR F-43 depressed center flatcar, with just 6 axles…










An HO brass model of the car I was looking to create…









I bought a pair of MTH Buckeye three axle trucks and simply drilled a hole just ahead of the original mounting hole and used a new, longer screw with a nut as a spacer between the truck and the car body.


















I just need to renumber the car and change some of the decals, but the mechanical work is done…


















Tom


----------



## machinist

Good Evening Everyone,

Haven't posted much in the last 3-4 months due to a few health issues and life in general but I'm back in the saddle again.

I'm almost ashamed to post my latest meager project compared to what you guys have been up to!(That's you-Pete, Tom, Lou, 86TA). 

A few years back, Sunset/3rd Rail produced a run of the EMD SD7/SD9 diesels in various roadnames. I purchased 3 SD9's, 2 B&LE and 1 DMIR. They all ran ok, but some of the railroad specific details(at least on my models) missed the mark, which to me is one of the purchasing points/reasons for buying 3rd Rail models. On all my engines, the most obvious issue was the use of the completely wrong bell which is mounted on the high, short hood. The "dinner bell/steam engine bell & bracket" that 3rd Rail used was only used on Southern railway SD9 engines. The Bessemer & Missabe had bells hanging from fabricated steel plates that were welded to the high short hood. In addition, my Bessemer units had only 3 steps on the four pilot corners, where the prototypes had 4 steps. And lastly, the wide black band on my Bessemers was not painted all the way around the cab like the prototypes, only on the sides. I have enclosed a couple photos of B&LE #'s 821 and 823 (which are the exact numbers of my 3rd Rail engines), and a photo of a Southern Railway SD9 that shows the bell type that was on my engines. I had contacted Scott at 3rd Rail about the issues back then and was told that he could provide me with the missing steps but the bell and paint were a done deal. He offered me a full refund but I kept the units and he sent me the 12 missing steps. Anyway, finally about a month ago, I carefully removed the factory "dinner bells", and installed some MTH bells/brackets after reshaping the contour to fit the edge of the nose. I also installed the extra brass steps after a little filing/shaping. Finally, I masked off the cabs and finished painting the black band all the way around. I'm happy with the result. I still have to paint the Missabe bell bracket as it is the maroon color they used. I will have to mix up a small amount and color match it to the body.


----------



## Krieglok

Nice work on the SD. I have done some “detail revision“ on a number of engines. Usually MTH products that are missing obvious details or have wrong paint in places.

Here is a B&LE SD9, one of two the railroad I worked for, leased from the B&LE back in 1986. The bell bracket is obvious. The paint is the later version scheme. I was working as a Conductor on a Jordan Spreader job when I snapped the picture of the Engineer and Brakeman…










Curious to see your other improvements. Too bad the models couldn’t be done right from the manufacturer.

Tom


----------



## machinist

Thanks Tom. Nice photo of that SD9 in the later scheme. What railroad were you working on back in the day? Those Bessemer SD9's ended up being leased out to railroads all over the country and even in Canada. Quite a few of them were still in regular service through about 2000 when time/technology started taking its toll. The Bessemer and Missabe swapped these back and forth over the years as they were both under US Steel control. I'm having a fun time trying to mix up a small amount of paint to touch up a couple spots and paint the bell on my Missabe SD9. Nothing matches the maroon that 3rd Rail used on my model. I've been using Tamiya rattle cans and also bottles for brush on touch up. See you've used Scalecoat with great results-I'll have to try that brand down the road.

Nick


----------



## Krieglok

The railroad was the Allegheny Railroad. We had 4 locos of our own( Two GP40s and two CF7s) and then leased 5 others. Two from the Bessemer, both SD9s, Two GP9s from the Shawmut and a U30b from the Gettysburg railroad. 

The Bessemer engines were top notch, clean and ran great. I loved running them. I always remember a tool box, complete with a wrench set, pipe wrenches and other tools, welded to the floor in the engine room. The engines still had the builders plates too, but they were stolen at some point… 

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

machinist,

Nice work, now it has your personal touch, thanks for sharing. Good to see you back n the forum.


----------



## 86TA355SR

…]


----------



## Norton

Quite the setup. Looks like the motor doubles as the weight.

Pete


----------



## 86TA355SR

Pete,

The locomotive has a boiler weight but it’s not necessary for my plans.

Taking the boiler off was a PITA. Original instructions stated to loosen the Pittman mount screws and slide boiler forward off motor. All good in theory. I should’ve taken screws completely out. Broke cab floor off boiler and had to solder it. When it’s time to reinstall, I’ll leave motor loose in boiler and install screws with a long screwdriver, less chance of damage.

Nothing makes me happier (sarcasm) than breaking/knocking off a painted brass part.…I’ll leave it at that, haha!


----------



## Norton

86TA355SR said:


> Pete,
> 
> The locomotive has a boiler weight but it’s not necessary for my plans.
> 
> 
> Nothing makes me happier (sarcasm) than breaking/knocking off a painted brass part.…I’ll leave it at that, haha!


That was my big concern working on the Sunset K5. Very poorly made. Half the job was resoldering all the broken and poorly soldered parts. Its was as if the solder had zinc rot. blow on it and it would fall off.
Is that a Sunset or Samhongsa model? Some of the parts look familiar.
Pete


----------



## 86TA355SR

Norton said:


> That was my big concern working on the Sunset K5. Very poorly made. Half the job was resoldering all the broken and poorly soldered parts.….
> 
> ….Is that a Sunset or Samhongsa model? Some of the parts look familiar.
> Pete


Pete,

I’ll have to look, I don’t remember which it is. Probably Samhongsa, it’s from that era.

When I knock a painted brass part off, the air instantly turns blue in the shop. There’s no easy way to fix. Some guys say epoxy, doesn’t work for me, I’ve tried several. I’ve “cheated” a few times with miniature screws, if possible, but to repair correctly requires strip, prep, solder, repaint. 

SS is entry level brass, IMO. Nothing wrong with that, just some limitations. 

I’ve knocked a lot of stuff off this one and the Mikado, even with careful handling, my fault. If you bend a part, you get one or two attempts at straightening prior to break. Both seem delicate compared to other brass models in the collection. 

It’s really hard to beat those old USH/KTM models, built like tanks and ran like sewing machines. Add some detail parts and make a beautiful model. I prefer them.


----------



## Norton

On deck is a KTM NYC H10. Got it cheap with poor paint so I will have to strip it. I have heard they well made. We’ll see.

Pete


----------



## lou1985

I got one of the 3 locomotives I picked up from the last Cabin Fever auction running this past weekend. This CNW E4 Hudson was the easiest of the 3 to get running. It was cosmetically mint and unrun, just missing the pilot truck , had its motor and drive line installed, and had about 2/3 of it's wire harness intact. I scrounged around in my parts box and found a pilot truck and pivot bar that fit perfectly.
















​After making the locomotive cosmetically complete I had to wire it up to run. The only missing wire harness was between the locomotive wiring and where the MUX board would go. I could have duplicated that harness but I have a limited supply of boiler MUX boards, and since they are NLA I wanted to save them as spares for my factory PS2 3V locomotives. I needed independent control of the warning light on the front of the locomotive so I got creative with a standard PS32 board. I reconfigured the harness to match a PS3 steam upgrade kit harness but I eliminated the chassis ground wire through the harness. I grounded the board through the tender trucks instead of the locomotive through the harness. That freed up one wire in the 10 pin harness. I connected that wire to the interior light ground on the PS32 board. It was now just a simple matter of connecting the positive voltage wire for cab light and red warning light on the front of the locomotive to the PV line in the locomotive and the ground for those two lights to the wire that now ran back to the interior light ground on the board connector. The interior light and red warning light can be turned on and off from the interior light softkey (LIN) on the DCS remote independent of the headlight. The headlight, MARS light (a Evans MARS simulator I changed the LED on to match the headlight LED), classification lights, and firebox light are connected to the headlight circuit. The wire harness I built has enough slack to be able to easily lift the shell off and disconnect the shell and chassis wire harness.
















​This was the last version of the CNW E4 Hudson MTh produced, which was PS2 3V. I wasn't about to put the PS2 sound file in it, since the PS32 board can use PS3 sound files. I started with a Premier PS3 Empire State Express sound file as a base and added a 5 chime whistle (quillable) to the sound file using the ADPCM program. I also changed the station announcements to the Minnesota 400.





Came out pretty good. This was a pretty quick weekend project for me. The other two Cabin Fever locomotives I picked up require everything, including paint, so they'll be a little more involved.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

lou1985 said:


> I could have duplicated that harness but I have a limited supply of boiler MUX boards, and since they are NLA I wanted to save them as spares for my factory PS2 3V locomotives. I needed independent control of the warning light on the front of the locomotive so I got creative with a standard PS32 board. I reconfigured the harness to match a PS3 steam upgrade kit harness but I eliminated the chassis ground wire through the harness. I grounded the board through the tender trucks instead of the locomotive through the harness. That freed up one wire in the 10 pin harness. I connected that wire to the interior light ground on the PS32 board.


I personally don't know that this is a particularly good idea. In a possible derailment, you could end up putting track voltage in place of the ground, probably with not so good results.  I ran across issues years ago trying to do this with TMCC stuff, I finally stuck to making sure that both track power leads are in the tether. A floating ground is not a good thing here.


----------



## lou1985

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I personally don't know that this is a particularly good idea. In a possible derailment, you could end up putting track voltage in place of the ground, probably with not so good results.  I ran across issues years ago trying to do this with TMCC stuff, I finally stuck to making sure that both track power leads are in the tether. A floating ground is not a good thing here.


Oddly enough the factory MTH harness on this locomotive was set up the same way. The ground connection between the locomotive and the tender is through the ground spring on the drawbar. There was no chassis ground through the tether . I figured if MTH did it that way from the factory on this locomotive so can I . I rang the factory harness out with a multi meter before re-pinning it.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Well, that's not the normal wiring scheme, most PS/2 stuff with the board in the tender have both power leads in the tether.


----------



## lou1985

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Well, that's not the normal wiring scheme, most PS/2 stuff with the board in the tender have both power leads in the tether.
> 
> View attachment 580023
> 
> View attachment 580024


Oh I know. The two pins next to each other on the 7 pin connector that have ground connections (one chassis from the locomotive, the other from the tender chassis) just had a connector in the tender chassis ground slot. The engine ground slot was empty. There wasn't even a wire in the locomotive connected to chassis ground. Factory relied on the wireless drawbar spring as the ground connection between the locomotive and tender. Since the factory did it then it must work ok. Worse case I can add a ground wire with a micro connector, but I doubt it's needed.

Some of this late PS2 3V wireless drawbar stuff is wired weird. My DM&IR Yellowstone was set up the same way as this CNW Hudson from the factory.


----------



## Krieglok

Back to simpler stuff…lol…

I finally finished a project car that was drawn out a bit by finishes that didn’t come out right. I stripped it twice. The first time from a Christmas car. I repainted it for a NYC car, in the deep green. It came out okay, but the color seemed way off. It just wasn’t the right color to me. I restripped the car and the Scalecoat paint I used was very stubborn. It took a lot of soaking and scrubbing with oven cleaner to get the paint off.


















I had some boxcar red left over and painted the car with that. The decals are from K4. Some weight was added and the whole car received a shot of Dulcote…




Tom


----------



## Norton

Another fine job Tom. You know how to hide that decal film.

Pete


----------



## Krieglok

Thanks Pete. It took some trial and error to figure out a working finish. I never had any luck using the Scalecoat II clear finishes. They seemed to highlight the decal edges. Now I use Dulcote as it covers well and dries relatively quick.

Tom


----------



## Norton

I have good luck with Dullcote, in particular from a bottle using an airbrush. The spray can seems to leave a slight sheen, not as flat. My last project, the Sunset K5, I took a cue from Lou1985 and tried SEM products. Best used outdoors with a respirator as its pretty funky.
On the areas to be decaled I used a Trim Gloss followed by a matte clear. Hid the film pretty well.



















I also used Scalecoat 1 on a few small pieces for the first 'time and liked it a lot. Probably switch to Scalecoat from Tru Color as it seemed a lot easier to get a good finish. Tru Color requires getting the thin ratio just right or it clogs (too little) or gives a gritty finish (too much).

Pete


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I think the Dulcote is a more realistic finish for most rolling stock Tom, so it's probably a good choice.


----------



## Krieglok

The next set of your Pennsy cars will be finished that way.

I am having issues getting the paint. Minuteman is way behind on their orders. I had half a can of PRR boxcar red and it didn’t cover properly. That car is being re-stripped again!

Hopefully finishing them soon.

Here is a MTH caboose I just finished. It was a OGF caboose and the owner tried to strip it but didn’t have any luck doing it. He sent me two. This one is a “Fantasy” paint scheme. It isn’t meant to be realistic…

This is the Before….












The caboose was painted with Scalecoat II Tuscan Red and finished with Dulcote. The decals are K4 products…


















The other caboose is being refinished as a DT&I hack. Waiting for the decals on that one…

Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I'll say it again Tom, you certainly do some nice work!


----------



## Krieglok

Thank you John.

You just say that because I have nine of your cars being held hostage! 😉 Lol.

Waiting for decent weather and supplies! Hopefully it will all come together soon!


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I'm going to talk to Seal Team 6 and see if I can mount a rescue mission! 
Maybe I should wait until they're ready...


----------



## Krieglok

Lol, yes! Hopefully soon!

Here is the other ex-OGF caboose. This one will be DT&I…a more realistic scheme…










Tom


----------



## Krieglok

I assembled a truck for a fellow over at the OGR forum. He needed a gear block and two side frames to repair his MTH RS1.

Dug through the parts box and found the one pair of frames and one block left from previous projects. I assembled it, adding a wheel set and frames with new screws and will ship it out tomorrow.


















Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

One of the things that makes this hobby great is helping each other. Well done sir, I’m sure the receiver is very happy with your kindness. Class act.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Here's a Weaver Reading Crusader getting the "works", a full TMCC command upgrade. The locomotive is all wired (the harder part), I just have to tie up all the wires in the boiler shell. All LED lighting, ground lights, and of course, fan driven smoke.


----------



## Krieglok

Looks like a lot of room inside there. I really need to learn that skill….

Tom


----------



## Midnight Goat

I've been working on quite a few projects recently. Finally buttoned up my TMCC F3 with the help of Jetguy and Gunrunnerjohn. Refreshed my ZW with a new power cord, replacement roller for one that was ground flat, rectifier diodes for the whistles, TVS diodes on the terminals, and 5amp breakers between the main lines and terminals. I thought that my whistle tender was on the fritz but it's working nicely after replacing the old rectifier disks on the transformer. I was gifted an old V transformer that needs to be gone through next. At minimum that is going to need a new power cord but I have all the parts, just further down on my list. I love the look of it though and would like to use it in some capacity. 

Now I'm switching focus to my prewar 2036 that I can't get to move and an operating caboose that won't light up the figure. The caboose should be an easier fix but I'm stuck on where to go with the 2037. Will make a thread about that basket case in a few minutes. 

I've also been working out the kinks on some of my switches before starting to build up the layout. right now it's just two ovals with a single cross over on the inner oval. I've been chasing down short spots on the frogs and using nail polish to tackle the trouble area. I read that tip on here and love that it's such a simple solution. 

Once these projects are buttoned up it should be full speed ahead on working on the layout itself. A little nervous to start on the scenery since I've never done something like that before. This layout is has been my inspiration so far:


----------



## Millstonemike

*This Thread* by MTF member Tranz4mr discusses his process for restoring a transformer faceplate. Might be useful for your V.


----------



## seayakbill

Not a big deal but did put together some salt loads for the Postwar hoppers. The salt loads are staged for refining at the Morton's salt refinery.

Bill


----------



## Krieglok

Those cars are high in sodium…lol.

Great looking car loads there, Bob. Also the salt complex has a nice neat appearance out it. Love that switcher too!

Tom


----------



## seayakbill

Krieglok said:


> Great looking car loads there, Bob. Also the salt complex has a nice neat appearance out it. Love that switcher too!
> 
> Tom


Hi Tom, the Mortons Salt switcher is a Stockyard Express exclusive manufactured by MTH.

Bill


----------



## 86TA355SR

A few small things to fix and I’ll be done with the “hard” part…who am I joking, love this stuff!


----------



## Krieglok

Nice detailed work! What does the locomotive look like?

How much disassembly is needed when you paint the locomotive?

Finally, I have a Lionel Jr. Texas and Pacific 2-8-2 that I want to convert to oil fired. It has been a project I keep putting off. I moved the bell to the front of the smoke box and haven’t touched it since.










Looking forward to seeing your progress…

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Tom,

Thanks, will add the lift rings, vent, and a pipe today.

I usually Disassemble completely. It really makes it easier and a better paint job. A complicated valve gear can be a nightmare-I do not disassemble those. Learned lesson on a three cylinder….The large articulated locomotives just require more parts bags.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Lift rings are done. Paint prep is next.


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Lift rings are done. Paint prep is next.
> 
> View attachment 582126


That looks great. I did a similar project with a MTH Premier USRA Mikado a few months ago. 








C’mon guys. Any locomotive or car projects happening?


… Why did you remove the pictures?????? Edit, Hmmmm he took a lot more posts and made them blank??????




www.modeltrainforum.com




Yours is coming along much nicer than mine.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Lou,

I remember that, it’s a completely different locomotive after your fine work. 

I may possibly do a USRA Mikado in the future. Next few projects are waiting though, another Pacific, a heavily weathered “Early” Challenger, and a revisit to the 4-12-2 I already weathered. 

Soldering the lift rings was an exercise in patience. The holes are only .027” in the ring itself. They‘re just a little taller than the thickness of a quarter. Drilling the holes was a task.

Going to try the Micromark rivet decals on this project. It’s coming together.


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Lou,
> 
> I remember that, it’s a completely different locomotive after your fine work.
> 
> I may possibly do a USRA Mikado in the future. Next few projects are waiting though, another Pacific, a heavily weathered “Early” Challenger, and a revisit to the 4-12-2 I already weathered.
> 
> Soldering the lift rings was an exercise in patience. The holes are only .027” in the ring itself. They‘re just a little taller than the thickness of a quarter. Drilling the holes was a task.
> 
> Going to try the Micromark rivet decals on this project. It’s coming together.


Yours is going to look much better than mine though. I guarantee it. 

You'll want to lay some primer before using those rivet decals. I tried them on bare brass, they don't stick. I used Archer rivet decals. I'm pretty sure they are the exact thing Micro Mark sells.


----------



## Krieglok

A project that pales in comparison to the locomotive projects above, but something I have been waiting to start.

Arcade and Attica boxcars…

This small fleet of 14 cars was used to ship Borden’s “Cremora” powdered coffee creamer, from the one and only manufacturing plant in Arcade, NY. , to points all across the USA.

I am in the finishing stages of a couple O scale 40’ boxcars using the new K4 decal sets that just hit the market.
Nailing down a correct blue has been problematic. I have a few other sample to paint with different blues, but these two are going with some ”Harbor blue” I found at the local hardware store. The color is more blue than the computer images depict…


















They are not exact reproductions as they will have full ladders and roofwalks. I plan on doing one as the 510, which is on display at the Williamsville,NY Lehigh Valley train station. The other will be the version with the “Serving Arcade Industry” Logo on the side…











The earlier orange and black version cars will be the next project…

Tom


----------



## Lehigh74

They look good so far. I’m betting that as soon as you finish them, you will find the Weaver/Buffalo Creek version at a great price.


----------



## Krieglok

Of course! That is usually what happens when I think I have an uncommon paint job and then they suddenly show up on the market!

It has happened three times with my last few paint/decal projects…

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Great work, Tom.

I especially enjoy the uncommon paint projects you do. The short explanation of the cars is always interesting to me. Brings “personality “ to your projects while capturing a small piece of history.


----------



## Krieglok

Lehigh74 said:


> They look good so far. I’m betting that as soon as you finish them, you will find the Weaver/Buffalo Creek version at a great price.


Bob, in retrospect, the Weaver/BCK Arcade and Attica car is painted on the smaller steel boxcar bodies. The Weaver cars I am using, are a bit more scale, so at this point I would prefer the cars I am painting.

The A&A has quite a following and I am sure K4 will do well selling their decals in all scales, especially as the blue car models were very uncommon…



86TA355SR said:


> Great work, Tom.
> 
> I especially enjoy the uncommon paint projects you do. The short explanation of the cars is always interesting to me. Brings “personality “ to your projects while capturing a small piece of history.


Thank you 86T!

I am glad you appreciate the short history about the cars. I try to make up for my so-so talents with a bit of interesting information…lol.

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

Finally finished my Arcade and Attica boxcars. The blue cars were painted with and without the “Serving Arcade Industry”.

These are Weaver Christmas cars I stripped and repainted. The decals are a latest product of K4 decals. The ACI plates are also made by K4…


















I also refinished a MTH Premier boxcar into a Pacific Great Eastern scheme, also with K4 Decals…










Tom


----------



## Norton

Tom, another fine job on those cars. I had to check google earth for the Williamsville Station. Didn’t ever realize it was there. I did delivery for a drug store in Williamsville when I was in high school and traveled Long Street many times. I think the line (LV, Conrail??) was still in use then. There was a good train store on Long St but went under maybe ten years ago,

Pete


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Tom, you must spend a lot of time painting, but what are you going to do with all those great looking custom cars?  I can offer them a home if needed.


----------



## Krieglok

Norton said:


> Tom, another fine job on those cars. I had to check google earth for the Williamsville Station. Didn’t ever realize it was there. I did delivery for a drug store in Williamsville when I was in high school and traveled Long Street many times. I think the line (LV, Conrail??) was still in use then. There was a good train store on Long St but went under maybe ten years ago,
> 
> Pete


Hi Pete. Yes, it was the Lehigh valley station. It is now owned and restored by the WNYRHS. They also have a LVRR SW8 Pup on display as well as a caboose. The tracks are gone, but there is a walking trail there now…




gunrunnerjohn said:


> Tom, you must spend a lot of time painting, but what are you going to do with all those great looking custom cars?  I can offer them a home if needed.


Thanks John. I may thin the herd one of these days. I just enjoy making them. I am still waiting on the paint from Scalecoat. I have to contact them to get a “eta“ on the paint I need for your cars...

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

I gave the new Arcade and Attica boxcar decal set from K4 a try recently. The A&A painted their cars in an orange and white scheme at one point, before the blue scheme appeared.

I used a MTH 40’ car for my test project. I stripped the car, a York commemorative car, and primed it with Tamiya primer. The orange is Tamiya TS12 paint. The black roof is Scalecoat II flat engine black.

The set was well printed and the decals applied nicely. The only issue I had was the decal white stripes provided for the lower white band on the car sides. The decals applied well, but they were a challenge when working around the grab irons and the door details. The end result was less than perfect.

In retrospect, the white band would be better done with paint instead of the decal. The K4 sheet supplies the extra capacity and “return” decals to use a paint process instead of the white decals stripes with the detail decals already printed upon them.

I will do this car again, painting the white stripe instead.

Here is my first try…

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Tom,

Outstanding work, you’re the freight car MASTER painter! Beautiful!

Like you, I learned that same lesson about painting stripes instead of decals. Have to say, your stripe looks real nice. Well done.


----------



## Krieglok

86TA355SR said:


> Tom,
> 
> Outstanding work, you’re the freight car MASTER painter! Beautiful!
> 
> Like you, I learned that same lesson about painting stripes instead of decals. Have to say, your stripe looks real nice. Well done.


You are too kind. This car will look good weathered, when I get my airbrush set up. The next car I do, with a painted stripe, will look a hundred times better!

Tom


----------



## lou1985

White decals are always the worst to use over bright colors, even lettering. I try and avoid it at all costs.


----------



## Norton

Tom, you did great on the white stripe. Long decals like that are hard to impossible to keep straight especially the thin K4s. I have learned to use only a small amount of Micro Set and more water until I think its straight, then when it starts to dry add the Micro Sol if needed.

Pete


----------



## 86TA355SR

[


Krieglok said:


> …when I get my airbrush set up.…
> 
> Tom


Several of us can’t hardly wait to see pictures of your beautiful work with it.

My old airbrush keeps kicking and painted a lot of models. While great for painting, it just isn’t the correct airbrush for my weathering projects. So, I treated myself today-ordered a new “detail” airbrush. The needle is only .2 mm, it‘ll literally paint a pencil size dot! Can’t wait for it to arrive.

Been painting in the meantime, SC Grimy Black…thought it’d be a little more “gray” but I have a few tricks up my sleeve to get there….next time I’ll add a few drops of white prior to pulling the trigger.


----------



## Krieglok

Thanks guys.

The stripes we’re not too bad to use, until I reached the grab irons and the doors. Paint will work much better.

I have a Monon car coming up soon. It has a white stripe along the top of the sides. That will be painted, as K4 didn’t supply the striping on the decal sheet.

I use the Microscale system of decal set on most of my stuff. It depends on the paint and decal combination. I also use Walthers Solvaset quite a bit.

The airbrush is certainly the way to go. Much more control and nicer applications.

86T, your project looks great, even unassembled but painted. I have a couple cheapie Badger brushes with the fine, medium and large needles. I do have a internal mix brush, a Paasch I think, that would work better. I just need to learn how to handle it…

Now, here is a project that just didn’t turn out right for a couple reasons. It is Scalecoat II with a newer set of K4 decals. The paint applied well, but the decals were slightly defective. The decal paper wouldn’t release from decals. I had to roll them and get a loose corner to peel them off. They ended up being too thick. I used Microscale decal solutions, but the decals has discoloration behind the decals.

I contacted K4 and they acknowledged that they had a run of bad paper and that it wouldn't happen again. It wasn’t the end of the world, as I really liked the decal set. The car will be weathered to hide the issues or take a trip back to the stripping tanks…










Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Tom,

Those old Badgers are hard to beat, I’ve been using a single action 200 for 35+ years. Not sure which needle it has, believe it’s the medium-whatever it comes with as delivered, Never had to replace it. 

Just picked up their new “Sotar 20/20” dual action model. It’s used for fine detail painting, just the ticket for a few of my weathering ideas. The videos of it are impressive, ultra thin lines. I hope to share results here in the near future.

Aaron


----------



## Krieglok

Aaron, you do have a name! Lol.

I have had the basic Badger airbrushes for 40 years! I actually wore a couple out, with use and constantly cleaning. Looking forward to seeing your latest creation!

Tom


----------



## Millstonemike

Alas, I'm resigned to Rustoleum rattle cans


----------



## 86TA355SR

Krieglok said:


> Aaron, you do have a name! Lol.
> 
> I have had the basic Badger airbrushes for 40 years! I actually wore a couple out, with use and constantly cleaning. Looking forward to seeing your latest creation!
> 
> Tom


Haha, I get called a lot of other things but I’m still “AA-Ron” as Chappelle says!

This is about the only thread/forum I participate in regularly, it shares model building & modeling ideas. Some real craftsmen contribute, always look forward to the “alerts” for this thread.

Have a great weekend,

Aaron


----------



## Krieglok

Millstonemike said:


> Alas, I'm resigned to Rustoleum rattle cans


I have been using Scalecoat and Tamiya rattle cans. The Scalecoat spray paint is becoming scarce due to our faltering supply chains…

Tom


----------



## Millstonemike

Krieglok said:


> I have been using Scalecoat and Tamiya rattle cans. The Scalecoat spray paint is becoming scarce due to our faltering supply chains…
> 
> Tom


I have a train paint coming up. Three early 610/612 passenger cars (1915), a 259 Loco and tender. They will get a uniform color scheme. A large Rustoleum can might cover the entire train. After that, five late model prewar 610/612 passenger cars. That may need more than one can


----------



## Krieglok

The blue paint I used on my Arcade and Attica boxcars was a large can of blue from Rustoleum. It was a “designer” color, so the nozzle seemed to put out a bit finer spray. I found a Testors blue that was the same color, but in the small hobby cans, with better nozzles.

I have tried Krylon clear coat in large cans, but the spray just seems too heavy...

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

I quit using black a few models ago. Now, a combination of “grime” & black is what I paint steamers. It’s a very dark gray (depends on ratio, 3:1 heavily weathered) and the huge benefit is details are easier to see on the finished model. Dry brushing “pops” details if needed.

Next, a “fade” combination of “sky gray” & Pledge Revive It, thinned 50%. Using an airbrush, one or two quick passes at 90 degrees to the surface gives a nice sun bleached look to top surfaces. 

The smokebox was heavily stained at this point in the locomotive’s service life, so I broke out the oil paints and got busy. I squeeze oil paints onto a paper towel and allow to sit a few hours. The towel absorbs the oil, aiding dry time. An acrylic satin clear is applied, then a dab of oil paint, move with brush, use thinner as needed to manipulate the paint. 

Tomorrow streaking on boiler and possible reassemble the mechanism. 

Current progress:


----------



## Dano

I did a bit of a work-over on this PGE caboose by MTH. I moved over the ladders and modded the roof-walks and added the short walk under the cupola. The chimney was threatening to blow away so I added some stays. A bit of 'dust and rust' to round it out and ready for service.


----------



## lou1985

Krieglok said:


> The blue paint I used on my Arcade and Attica boxcars was a large can of blue from Rustoleum. It was a “designer” color, so the nozzle seemed to put out a bit finer spray. I found a Testors blue that was the same color, but in the small hobby cans, with better nozzles.
> 
> I have tried Krylon clear coat in large cans, but the spray just seems too heavy...
> 
> Tom


I still think Tamiya has the best clear in a spray can, as far as spray pattern and laying flat.


----------



## Krieglok

lou1985 said:


> I still think Tamiya has the best clear in a spray can, as far as spray pattern and laying flat.


I discovered a few cans of Tamyia clear finishes in my paint box. I am going to 
give them a try next..

Tom


----------



## lou1985

Krieglok said:


> I discovered a few cans of Tamyia clear finishes in my paint box. I am going to
> give them a try next..
> 
> Tom


This has two coats of Tamiya semi-gloss clear. Laid down perfectly smooth out of the can.









C’mon guys. Any locomotive or car projects happening?


Fresh from the paint shop….! Awaiting builder plates from PFS, final item. Beautiful work 86T. It is basically a work of art! It must look great pulling a string of cars! Plodding along on three railing my Sunset NYC K5 Pacific. Got bogged down quartering drivers. Finally reworked my NWSL...




www.modeltrainforum.com


----------



## 86TA355SR

Krieglok said:


> ….I have tried Krylon clear coat in large cans, but the spray just seems too heavy...
> 
> Tom


Tom,

You’re absolutely correct. The Krylon nozzles are great for general spray painting around the house, but don’t atomize (big word) enough for your purposes (models). 

I tried the Krylon matte clear, and though I liked the product, I sprayed into an airbrush color cup and applied using it. 

When I was a kid, I’d put rattle cans in hot tap water. A Fine Scale Modeler magazine tip-logic was warm paint flowed better. 

The Tamiya nozzles will give a much finer spray pattern and results.

I mix my own clears-super easy and I can vary the sheen. Advantage of airbrush. Total cost is less than two spray cans and I literally have enough to spray to my heart’s content!

Aaron


----------



## Millstonemike

86TA355SR said:


> ...
> 
> When I was a kid, I’d put rattle cans in hot tap water. A Fine Scale Modeler magazine tip-logic was warm paint flowed better.
> ...


Yes, I knew it made a difference! Thanks for validating that.

I repaint prewar tinplate using Rustoleum rattle cans. I'm getting good results by "prepping" the can. Shaking it like it's in a Twist dance contest and warming it up; over a baseboard heater, in the sun, in the hot car in the sun ... I'll add the warm water bath to my "bags of tricks"  

Any tips for Rustoleum rattle can spray nozzles? Replacements?


----------



## 86TA355SR

Mike,

Going way back in my memory, I took a nozzle that sprayed well from a different brand, gently pry it off and place on Rustoleum can. As long as the “shaft” of the nozzle is same size, works ok. May have to experiment.

Been told Scale Coat spray paint nozzles are really good. Ridiculous expensive, IMO, BUT one might be worth the investment-clean/reuse.

Others probably have another/better option.


----------



## Krieglok

86TA355SR said:


> Mike,
> 
> Going way back in my memory, I took a nozzle that sprayed well from a different brand, gently pry it off and place on Rustoleum can. As long as the “shaft” of the nozzle is same size, works ok. May have to experiment.
> 
> Been told Scale Coat spray paint nozzles are really good. Ridiculous expensive, IMO, BUT one might be worth the investment-clean/reuse.
> 
> Others probably have another/better option.


I save the Scalecoat nozzles from my empty spray cans. I am pretty religious about clearing them after each use. When the can is empty, I place them in a jar of thinner/brush cleaner.

Occasionally, I get a cab with a bum nozzle, so the spares are handy…

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

lou1985 said:


> This has two coats of Tamiya semi-gloss clear. Laid down perfectly smooth out of the can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> C’mon guys. Any locomotive or car projects happening?
> 
> 
> Fresh from the paint shop….! Awaiting builder plates from PFS, final item. Beautiful work 86T. It is basically a work of art! It must look great pulling a string of cars! Plodding along on three railing my Sunset NYC K5 Pacific. Got bogged down quartering drivers. Finally reworked my NWSL...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.modeltrainforum.com


Thanks Lou. I am doing my next set of cars with all Tamiya paints and clear coats.

I have been using Scalecoat but their availability is really getting spotty. I am looking for a Tamiya equivalent to PRR boxcar red. I have been waiting almost 6 months for Scalecoat to fill my order so I can finish 9 cars for GRJ.

I am also setting up my airbrush work area, so I can used bottles of Scalecoat II PRR bc red if all else fails…

Tom


----------



## Millstonemike

Krieglok said:


> ... Occasionally, I get a cab with a bum nozzle, so the spares are handy…
> 
> Tom


I always check the the can before buying. Picked up a can last week, no nozzle.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Krieglok said:


> …I have been using Scalecoat but their availability is really getting spotty…. I have been waiting almost 6 months for Scalecoat to fill my order so I can finish 9 cars for GRJ.
> 
> I am also setting up my airbrush work area, so I can used bottles of Scalecoat II PRR bc red if all else fails…
> 
> Tom


Well, many of us grew tired of waiting and no longer order from MM.

Des Plaines has a good selection and most importantly, in stock ready to ship. Last order arrived in two days.

I understand he’s (MM) had a few issues, but I know for a fact it’s been going on for 18+ months now. A new supplier maybe in order.

A simple statement on his site, “We are experiencing supply issues, please anticipate a delay of xxx amount of time. Thank you” would do a lot for good wil.

After three separate order attempts from MM, waiting several months for each order, I‘m changing direction. At $12 per 2 oz of paint, I expect a little more and I’m in no way a “snowflake” .


----------



## 86TA355SR

Started the fading/shading process, a combination of different washes and techniques. The top of cab is almost complete, still a lot of work to be done on boiler.



Below, I actually tore the second “I” in “Pacific” and then it folded over itself. I knew better but had to mess with it after decal solution…ugh…but was able to fix it.

Some fading and streaking on tender. Not even close to being done, but a start.

Earlier I said how small the lift rings were on the oil bunker. A size perspective is now visible…


The new Sotar airbrush is AWESOME! It’s a little difficult to clean the nozzle but it’s capable of incredible detail work. Literally uses drops of paint. I‘m completely impressed.

The white ”mineral deposits“ on the whistle in the first picture are free hand with the Sotar. The little overspray on the steam dome was intentional-I could have easily prevented. I painted many valves “grime” with the Sotar, completely leaving the area around them undisturbed and overspray free. The hatches on sand domes were painted the same way.

I will dull coat all of the smoke box then use the Sotar/satin or gloss clear coat to give the appearance of “wet” oil stains-in pin point locations. It‘s a great tool!


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Started the fading/shading process, a combination of different washes and techniques. The top of cab is almost complete, still a lot of work to be done on boiler.
> 
> View attachment 583516
> 
> 
> Below, I actually tore the second “I” in “Pacific” and then it folded over itself. I knew better but had to mess with it after decal solution…ugh…but was able to fix it.
> 
> Some fading and streaking on tender. Not even close to being done, but a start.
> 
> Earlier I said how small the lift rings were on the oil bunker. A size perspective is now visible…
> View attachment 583515
> 
> 
> The new Sotar airbrush is AWESOME! It’s a little difficult to clean the nozzle but it’s capable of incredible detail work. Literally uses drops of paint. I‘m completely impressed.
> 
> The white ”mineral deposits“ on the whistle in the first picture are free hand with the Sotar. The little overspray on the steam dome was intentional-I could have easily prevented. I painted many valves “grime” with the Sotar, completely leaving the area around them undisturbed and overspray free. The hatches on sand domes were painted the same way.
> 
> I will dull coat all of the smoke box then use the Sotar/satin or gloss clear coat to give the appearance of “wet” oil stains-in pin point locations. It‘s a great tool!


That looks awesome. Nice job.


----------



## lou1985

So I'm slowly tinkering with another project I picked up from that NYE Cabin Fever auction. I picked up a Premier SP GS4 locomotive and tender shell. 










I have a bunch of Premier GS4 parts I've acquired cheap over the past couple of years. I rummaged through my parts bin and ended up with this.


















Locomotive is a Frankenstein combination of PS1/PS2/PS3 parts. Power is a rare Earth magnet, 6mm ball bearing, 9234 Pittman. I'm just going to blacken the driver tires/wheel centers and call it good. I have to assemble the tender still. I've got a PS3 steam kit on the side for it, but I probably won't tackle the electronics till the fall.


----------



## lou1985

Did a quick one this week. It started as a Lionel Atlantic Coast Line observation car which I turned into a Golden State observation car.


----------



## Krieglok

Great work guys.

Aaron, the steam engine looks great. The weathering is really coming out nicely. I have some weathered stuff, but for some reason I am hesitant to weather most of my fleet. I plan on weathering some boxcars that I have painted, in the hopes the dirt will hide some of the sins I committed on them…

Speaking if weathering, Dano, your caboose is just right. The perfect amount of road dirt really sets it off. Nice work!

Lou, your engine is looking good. It is interesting that you have assembled it from different sources. I love those GS-4s. The black version always intrigued me, with the “Skyline” boiler.

*** *** **

So here is my latest paint work. A mixture of MTH Premier and Weaver boxcars that started out as York commemorative cars and Weaver racing team cars. I stripped, painted and decaled them. I have been trying some different paint brands like Tamyia and Tru-Color sprat paints. Many Tamiya paints are close to various shades of boxcar red and other railroad colors. Tru-Color produces a small line of railroad colors. They are both a bit easier to use than Scalecoat as they dry quickly and coat well. Tamiya is definitely the better of the two.





A MTH Premier car with Tru-Color paint and K4 decals. The decal set was slightly defective. The decals didnt want to separate from the paper, without rolling them and finding a corner to peel them off from the paper. It resulted in a bit of silvering behind the decals. I plan on weathering this car. I contacted K4 and they realized they had a bad lot of decal paper. The rest of their decal sets work fine. 









Another MTH car, painted with Scalecoat II and decaled with K4 decals. A nice set that went easily for this Vermont Central boxcar…










A Weaver car painted with Tru-Color Freight Car Red and decaled using a K4 set. A simple Bangor and Aroostock Railway scheme. The ACI plate is also from a K4 set…










Finally, a MTH car refinished with Tru-Color Boxcar Red and K4 decals. An interesting set depicting the “New Jersey, Indiana and Illinois Railroad”, a railroad owned by Singer Sewing Machine Company. They connected with the Wabash to get their products out for distribution. Eventually the line was absorbed by the Wabash, then the N&W and finally the NS, who abandoned the line in the 1990’s…









Tom


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## gunrunnerjohn

Krieglok said:


> A MTH Premier car with Tru-Color paint and K4 decals. The decal set was slightly defective. The decals didn't want to separate from the paper, without rolling them and finding a corner to peel them off from the paper. It resulted in a bit of silvering behind the decals. I plan on weathering this car. I contacted K4 and they realized they had a bad lot of decal paper. The rest of their decal sets work fine


All of my decal attempts seem to have that problem, probably why painting and decaling is not something I regularly attempt.


----------



## Norton

Tom, what do you use over Tru Color before decaling? Their gloss, another gloss, or no clear, just what comes out of the airbrush? You obviously have it mastered.
You need to check out Tru Colors website. I am not a big fan of their paint but they have more that 200 colors now, more than Floquil and far more than Scalecoat. They might have two dozen freight car reds and browns.

Pete


----------



## Krieglok

Thanks Pete. The Tru-Color paint I used was a spray can. It was basically an experiment to find an alternative to Scalecoat. It was fairly glossy, so I just gave it a hit of Scalecoat gloss before decaling.

I need to go a bit heavier with the gloss coat before decaling. The decals sit well, but the car takes a few coats of flat clear coat to get the decals to blend in properly.

I will be trying the Tru-Color paints some more that I have my airbrush equipment set up…

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Go to the store and get this:










Used for 35+ years and, IMO, the BEST. Literally used it on hundreds of models.

if interested I will share how to mix satin & dull. It is extremely easy. Use for all my paint/decal setting projects..

No need to thin for airbrush, use straight from bottle. 91% alcohol for thinner (again, if interested I will share when to use thinner). 

You’ll never have “silver“ decals with Pledge & proper decal application. 

Plus, Pledge NEVER reacts with solvent or other type paints (oils, acrylics, etc).

No, I wasn’t smart enough to learn about Pledge on my own-Fine Scale Modeler magazines as a kid paid for themselves!


----------



## Norton

I have heard of folks using Pledge but didn’t realize it was this product, rather the furniture polish which I believe is different.

Pete


----------



## pennwest

I would be very interested to hear your tips on using Pledge. I've used it as a gloss coat, but that is all. Thinning and modifying for satin and dull coats would be GREAT info to have!


----------



## Krieglok

Aaron, I am definitely interested in seeing all your techniques about decaling. You can post it here or start a new thread dedicated to the subject. Maybe the powers in charge here could make it a sticky thread…

I usually have decent results with my decaling, but I find the finish coat tends to be hit or miss.

We all could definitely benefit from your techniques. I never heard of the Pledge idea in my 40+ years of modeling, so it is true, we learn something new every day!

Tom


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## gunrunnerjohn

I finished up my command upgrade of the K-Line A-5, it got the works, fan driven smoke, TMCC cruise, Railsounds, all LED lighting, etc. Of course, I used my Chuff-Generator and Super-Chuffer. 

The astute observer will probably notice it only has 2-chuffs, that was intentional. I have a couple others that haven't gotten a Chuff-Generator yet, so when I run them triple-headed, I don't want one to have 4-chuffs while the others have 2-chuffs. When they're all updated, I'll reprogram for 4-chuffs.


----------



## Krieglok

Nice! I will send you mine!

The engine looks great pulling cars. Perfect smoke. Sounds fine to me! Does it work well running over switches in the yard?

Nice Camera time for those beautiful PRR box cars! I will be getting the rest of the fleet painted asap. I am going to airbrush them instead of using Scalecoat spray cans. Does one car have silver trucks?

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

pennwest said:


> I would be very interested to hear your tips on using Pledge. I've used it as a gloss coat, but that is all. Thinning and modifying for satin and dull coats would be GREAT info to have!





Krieglok said:


> Aaron, I am definitely interested in seeing all your techniques about decaling. You can post it here or start a new thread dedicated to the subject. Maybe the powers in charge here could make it a sticky thread…
> 
> I usually have decent results with my decaling, but I find the finish coat tends to be hit or miss.
> 
> We all could definitely benefit from your techniques. I never heard of the Pledge idea in my 40+ years of modeling, so it is true, we learn something new every day!
> 
> Tom


This only works with an airbrush.

*Gloss* (or for decals): Pledge, straight from bottle. No thinner needed, sprays great. High gloss coat that dries slick as snot, just whats needed for decals.

Apply decals, Soak up any water with Q-tip. allow a few minutes to “set”. You want decals to be “set” enough that decal solution doesn’t move them during next step. I use “Solva set” or Micro set. Coat ENTIRE decal, including edges. I use several heavy coats, depending on surface. Rivets, door edges etc all require a lot of solution to soften and comform to surface details. Especially if you used “liquid decal film” to protect old decals as I do. As decals dry, GENTLY dab  more solution on. Do NOT drag your paint brush across decals during this step or you’ll be sorry…..tears will ruin it. Remember, decals are extremely soft after the solution is applied. Be gentle, let solution do its job.

Don‘t worry if the solution appears to damage the clear; we‘ll ”fix” soon. Only experienced this once with old decals or a LOT of Solva Set.

Allow to dry, I prefer 24 hours. Lightly wipe decals with a damp lent free cloth. Removes any residue left by decals. Let dry thoroughly.

Spray decals with Pledge using airbrush. Seals decals. I always do this, even if I’m going to satin or dull coat final model. Also, it’ll fix any clear coat “damage” from decal solution. You’ll never see it.

Now for clear coat ratios.

_Pledge and Tamiya X-21 “Flat Base” in the following ratios, thinned 50% with 91% Isopropyl Alochol._ Mix well. Old DRY plastic water bottles are great storage containers. Use 70% isopropyl alcohol for airbrush cleaning-cheap.

*Satin*: *15* parts Pledge to *1* part Tamiya X-21, thin 50% with 91% alcohol. I like 15:1, nice satin for locomotives. Sheen but not glossy. I use between each color change for weathering to protect my previous work.

*Flat or Dull: 5 *parts Pledge to *1* part Tamiya X-21 Flat Base, thin 50% with 91% alcohol. It’s dead flat, no luster. I do not recommend any ratio below 5:1, “frosting” is a very real possibility depending on a lot of considerations. “Frosting “ is that “whiteish “ look from dull coat. if ”frosting “ happens to you (will not at 5:1) simply spray Pledge gloss over it. Restores your original finish Without frosting.

All clear ratios dry in a matter of minutes.

Give it a try, it’s harder to write all that than to do it. Practice on scrap pieces if not comfortable, I’ll never go back to factory clears.

Be glad to answer questions.

Tom, you’re decals look great to me. Always have. Bad film is bad film, though frustrating not a lot can be done. Your efficient and productive ability of beautiful finishes impress me. Look forward to every new post.

Aaron


----------



## Krieglok

Thanks for the tutorial Aaron. The directions are very clear and straight forward. I can’t wait to give it a try.

I have had only the one car, the Mississippi Central boxcar, really go south on me. I am going to try and save it with some weathering.

Thanks again for posting your technique. My technique works, but seems to take a lot of clear coating to get the same, uniform finish over the decals as the rest of the car.

I am awaiting the arrival of the needed materials to get started!

Tom


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## seayakbill

So would the Pledge Revive It be OK for restoring the gloss on 70 year old Postwar rolling stock without harming any logos or script on the car ?

Bill


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Krieglok said:


> Nice! I will send you mine!
> 
> The engine looks great pulling cars. Perfect smoke. Sounds fine to me! Does it work well running over switches in the yard?


The locomotive and tender each have two pickups, so this one has no issue at all anywhere on the layout. It has no issues pulling the ten cars and caboose up the 2.5% grade, not bad for a little switcher. 



Krieglok said:


> Nice Camera time for those beautiful PRR box cars! I will be getting the rest of the fleet painted asap. I am going to airbrush them instead of using Scalecoat spray cans. Does one car have silver trucks?


The PRR cars have gotten several nice reviews here, one guy even noticed the unique numbers and asked how I got those.  I think one or two had silver trucks, I'll have to paint those at some point.


----------



## Krieglok

gunrunnerjohn said:


> The locomotive and tender each have two pickups, so this one has no issue at all anywhere on the layout. It has no issues pulling the ten cars and caboose up the 2.5% grade, not bad for a little switcher.
> 
> The PRR cars have gotten several nice reviews here, one guy even noticed the unique numbers and asked how I got those.  I think one or two had silver trucks, I'll have to paint those at some point.


I have the MTH PRR 0-4-0 version and a K-Line PRR 0-6-0. I hope they can handle switches well when I build a small switching layout.

Thanks for the feedback on the cars. I have one more done for you. I am using it as a baseline example while I search out a new paint supplier that will match the Scalecoat color. I am also starting downward in the number series for the remaining 9 cars…

Tom


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## gunrunnerjohn

It's a bummer that the supply chain is even hitting model paints! I guess nobody is immune. 😅


----------



## papa3rail

Krieglok said:


> Nice! I will send you mine!
> 
> Tom


Yes put me on that list. Nice job John very cool.


----------



## Lehigh74

Krieglok said:


> I have the MTH PRR 0-4-0 version and a K-Line PRR 0-6-0. I hope they can handle switches well when I build a small switching layout.
> 
> Tom


My MTH 0-4-0 (20-3598-1) has no problems with Gargraves 103/104 (O100), 113/114 (O42), 141 (O72 WYE), Ross 161 (O72/O54), Ross 100/101 or older Gargraves.


----------



## Krieglok

gunrunnerjohn said:


> It's a bummer that the supply chain is even hitting model paints! I guess nobody is immune. 😅


It has been mentioned a number of times at various forums. I was starting to think it was only me, not getting any product. I have a couple hundred dollars tied up with them, on unfulfilled orders…




Lehigh74 said:


> My MTH 0-4-0 (20-3598-1) has no problems with Gargraves 103/104 (O100), 113/114 (O42), 141 (O72 WYE), Ross 161 (O72/O54), Ross 100/101 or older Gargraves.


Thanks Bob. I have a number of common Ross switches and Gargraves in my track stash. I was hoping to build a small industrial switching layout and use my smaller steam engines and diesel locomotives on the pike…

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

I have my airbrush up and running now. It has been 10 years since I used one and the techniques slowly came back to me.

I selected a couple recent paint/decal projects that just didn’t turn out right. I used Model Master Acrylic grimy black, rust and some sand colors layered on lightly. I had some issues with some slight paint spitting, adjusting the airbrush settings as I went along. The results weren’t too bad. Both cars need a final shot of flat clear...


















Tom


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## Krieglok

Another Weaver car…stripped and repainted. This my second A&A car in the orange and white scheme. This time I painted the white stripe instead of using the decal stripes. My masking skills need some work, but the stripe came out more opaque than the decals did on my first try.

I used all Tamyia paints and clear coat And K4 decals. The car may get some weathering if it doesn’t end up back in the stripping tank…

Tom


----------



## lou1985

Krieglok said:


> Another Weaver car…stripped and repainted. This my second A&A car in the orange and white scheme. This time I painted the white stripe instead of using the decal stripes. My masking skills need some work, but the stripe came out more opaque than the decals did on my first try.
> 
> I used all Tamyia paints and clear coat And K4 decals. The car may get some weathering if it doesn’t end up back in the stripping tank…
> 
> Tom
> 
> View attachment 583932


Masking around the lumps in the door is a giant PITA. They do make very thin vinyl making tape for automotive applications that might work in this situation. Otherwise all you can do is burnish the edges of the tape as much as you can and hope for the best.


----------



## papa3rail

Nice weathering jobs and the ARA came out great.


----------



## Krieglok

lou1985 said:


> Masking around the lumps in the door is a giant PITA. They do make very thin vinyl making tape for automotive applications that might work in this situation. Otherwise all you can do is burnish the edges of the tape as much as you can and hope for the best.


Yes, those lumps…grrrrr. I have some vinyl Tamiya tape I didn’t try yet. I did use Tamyia masking tape for the stripe. It is good stuff but my skills don’t quite live up to the tape quality.



papa3rail said:


> Nice weathering jobs and the ARA came out great.


Thanks P3R! I am slowly relearning my weathering skills as well as the airbrush techniques I have long forgotten…

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Tom,

Glad you’re up & running with the airbrush. Like you, I had a long lapse in its use & took a few tries to get the “muscle memory” back!

The boxcars look great.

For those interested in weathering, YouTube has a lot of great clips. Nothing beats seeing how people do stuff IMO.

I reassembled the mechanism on the switcher, weathered the rods / “chipping” the drivers.



And reassembled the tender. Neither are completely finished.


----------



## Krieglok

Thanks Aaron. The relearning experience is going okay. I am having some issues getting the floor wax technique down pat. It works well for the final coat, I used it to save a couple cars that didn’t quite turn out right.

I have four boxcars I airbrushed in PRR Boxcar Red. They came out fine. They received the Pledge treatment and I will be decaling the soon. I also have a couple cars I am doing using Tamiya spray paint. So far so good with that situation.

The TruColor Spray paint worked okay. It doesn’t seem to work well with decals, despite a gloss coating. It ended up with very faint silvering behind the decals. I ended up weathering the cars and hid the issues pretty well.

All in all, the airbrush process will be the way to go. The Scalecoat paint works well for me.

Aaron, you engine is coming together nicely. The paint really ties in all the fine detail work you have done. The weathering will really be a great finish to the project!

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Tom, 

I replied to your message, hope you received it, if not I’ll resend. Included a few troubleshooting tips.

Good starting point is about 20 psi with Pledge. Quick passes, it’s thinner than paint, so you’ll have to move your hand faster across the model to avoid “puddles” & bad words…but I I don’t really alter my technique compared to paint.

Because the decals I use are hard to find, I ALWAYS spray a gloss coat no matter the paint manufacturer. To loose a set to slivering is a complete loss for me. It’s worth the extra step, a solid foundation for decals and never had silvering. 

Almost done with the switcher, just a few little things to finish.


----------



## Krieglok

Thanks Aaron. Yes, I saw the pm you sent. Thanks! The bad words are becoming less and less…lol.

The info helped jog my memory on pressures and such. I am slowly getting better with the process!

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Glad to help a fellow modeler. Feel free to ask anything. If I don’t know, we’ll find the answer together. In the meantime, I enjoy the beautiful freight cars you build.

I finished the USRA. This was a coal burner from Sunset and I converted to oil. The oil bunker deck is brass sheet, soldered PSC detail parts according to erecting diagrams.

4753, the very first USRA switcher on the OSL/UP, later transferred east and was the last USRA switch on the UP. Mine represents just prior to the move east.


----------



## Scratch3rail

A couple of simple scratch built cars using lionel flatcars and 6464 boxcars for sizing. Trucks, couplers and wheels are 3D printed, as are the doors and ends on the boxcar and stock car. The passenger car is fully 3D printed except for the roof. No prototypes, just fun cars that look good with larger lionel locomotives and cars.


----------



## Norton

Nicely done Scratch. Did you have create your own CAD drawings or are you able to download some to start with?

Pete


----------



## Scratch3rail

Norton said:


> Nicely done Scratch. Do you have create your own CAD drawings or are you able to download some to start with?
> 
> Pete


Thank you! For the passenger car and box car parts I got them from thingiverse. For the trucks though nothing was remotely satisfying so I created my own. They are very simple, built to the same dimensions as postwar lionel cast metal trucks, and pretty close to where I’d be comfortable posting them.


----------



## lou1985

Little more parts box rummaging and I've got a complete GS4 tender. Little trick to use a PS3 wireless drawbar tender frame with a metal drawbar is to rummage in your parts bin, find a scrap Rail King tender frame with a drawbar pin, cut the front of the frame off, drill two holes in it, and bolt it to the front of the PS3 tender frame. Take da, instant drawbar pin. I didn't hook up the tender truck chains yet as I'll be removing the trucks when I install boards/speaker/etc to drill mounting holes. It's cosmetically all together except for blackening the drivers. I'll do that when it gets cooler out in the fall, along with wiring and installing a PS3 kit.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Lou,

You’ve saved a LOT of MTH locomotives, great work again! Look forward to the running video this fall!


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Lou,
> 
> You’ve saved a LOT of MTH locomotives, great work again! Look forward to the running video this fall!


It's helpful when you've got a bin full of parts and a friend who also has a bunch of the parts you need to complete a project, which you can get cheaply. It makes these rebuild projects go a lot more smoothly that they would for the average guy.


----------



## lou1985

I stuck a 4 lobe cam in place of the factory 2 lobe cam on my TMCC Southern Pacific AC9. Much better sounding than the old 2 chuff cam, and an easy/cheap upgrade.


----------



## Krieglok

Very nice! The sound is great. Is the AC9 similar to a SP Cab forward, just reversed?

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

A couple new paint jobs. They are both Weaver cars I stripped and repainted using Tamyia spray paints and finishes. The decals are K-4…

Savannah and Atlanta Railroad…










And a MKT boxcar. Not quite prototype as the decal set was designed for a double door 40’ boxcar, but something a bit different from boxcar red…










Tom


----------



## lou1985

Krieglok said:


> Very nice! The sound is great. Is the AC9 similar to a SP Cab forward, just reversed?
> 
> Tom


Basically. In SP terms the AC9 is a backwards cab forward. The only conventional articulateds the SP had.


----------



## Scratch3rail

Definitely not proto 48, (mad respect for all you guys building those locomotives and cars) but I have a passion for making silk purses out of sows ears. My latest is reworking a lionel 8007 into a semi-scale K4. I know there are way better ways to do this, but I’m having fun engineering new parts and reshaping existing ones.
Primary changes:

Relocated LED headlight
New cylinders and cow catcher
4 wheel pilot
2 wheel pony truck
Remove some glaring inaccurate cast details
Scratch built tender (mostly for fun)









































(yes, the new steam chest is on a bit cockeyed, hence why the front looks a bit off)


----------



## Norton

lou1985 said:


> Basically. In SP terms the AC9 is a backwards cab forward. The only conventional articulateds the SP had.


True in the later years but the first cab forwards after the turn of the century were built as conventional mallets and articulateds. AM2s are converted MM2s. AC1s were converted MC1s.
MM = Mallet Mogul, 2-6-6-2, MC = Mallet Consolidation 2-8-8-2



http://espee.railfan.net/nonindex/steam-02/3931_sp-steam-mm03-phil_agur.jpg





http://espee.railfan.net/nonindex/steam-02/4000a_sp-steam-mc01-byron_bostwick.jpg



Pete


----------



## lou1985

Norton said:


> True in the later years but the first cab forwards after the turn of the century were built as conventional mallets and articulateds. AM2s are converted MM2s. AC1s were converted MC1s.
> MM = Mallet Mogul, 2-6-6-2, MC = Mallet Consolidation 2-8-8-2
> 
> 
> 
> http://espee.railfan.net/nonindex/steam-02/3931_sp-steam-mm03-phil_agur.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://espee.railfan.net/nonindex/steam-02/4000a_sp-steam-mc01-byron_bostwick.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> Pete


Thanks for clarifying that. I should have mentioned the first SP articulateds were conventional cab in back locomotives that SP crews started running in reverse so they wouldn't suffocate in snow sheds. That led to the first factory Cab Forwards.

Those later conventional 2-6-6-2s were acquired from the Verde Tunnel & Smelter RR in 1943 by the SP.


----------



## bluecomet400

Nice projects, everyone. I haven't posted here in a while, so I thought I'd jump back in. 

A while back I found this un-painted K-Line heavyweight diner. It is now in the expert hands of Harry Hieke, who is going to paint and letter it to match my K-Line NYC "28th Anniversary" passenger set. That set was sold only as a 5-car set (no diner), so I'm looking forward to having the addition.


----------



## Norton

Good plan John. I was able to get a Lionel SS diner to go with my K-Line Tuscan set. Still have to reletter it from Lionel Lines to New York Central.

Pete


----------



## Krieglok

Will the diner be the two tone scheme?

I have a set of K-Line NYC coaches in the pullman green. They are nice cars and I would like to add interiors eventually.

Tom


----------



## Norton

Tom, the K-Line 28th Anniversary set was Tuscan. About the same time Lionel offered its 50th Anniversary set with a Scale Hudson and five 18” tuscan cars lettered for Lionel Lines. It was in remembrance the 1950 773 Madison set. K-Line offered a similar set to go with its Scale Hudson but lettering the cars for New York Central. They are actually some of the nicest 18” heavyweights done by anyone and feature steps that swing out to allow operation on 031 curves which the Hudson could do as well with the longer supplied drawbar. Looks terrible doing it though.





__





Legacy K-Line Trains: Catalog Browser






www.legacykline.com





Pete


----------



## bluecomet400

The diner will be painted all one color: tuscan, just like the K-Line cars. I also found another un-painted heavyweight coach that Harry has as well, to be painted the same way, to make this an even longer train. They will be lettered for NYC, and as a tribute to my Dad, one of the cars will be named "Ridgefield Park" which was the town where he was born. Don't ask me what the second car will be named--I don't remember, but Harry has all the instructions.


----------



## Krieglok

Ridgefield Park? as in NYS&W territory?

I am finally making headway with a large project, painting and decaling MTH boxcars. They are a second series of nine cars I am doing for GRJ. Ten more were completed last year...






After almost a 5 month wait for the right paint to arrive, production is restarted. Each car is stripped and repainted. The five cars pictured here, are awaiting the final clear coat. Four more are being painted before decaling starts…












Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

WOW, that’s a lot if painting and decals! 

How’s the airbrush/Pledge clear coat working out?


----------



## Krieglok

86TA355SR said:


> WOW, that’s a lot if painting and decals!
> 
> How’s the airbrush/Pledge clear coat working out?


It actually goes quick. I pretty much have all the trimming and decal placement down…so much so, I see them in my sleep…lol

I haven’t nailed down the Pledge technique just yet. I am using it on some personal projects, where any errors will be redone eventually. I seem to have trouble getting a light, consistent coat on the car sides. Just trying out light to start…

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Internal or external mix airbrush?


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Lookin' good, can't wait to add these to the consist. These are a vast improvement from the gaudy MTH club cars that they started as.


----------



## Krieglok

86TA355SR said:


> Internal or external mix airbrush?


I have been using both with mixed results. I am not good with the internal brush just yet, but learning…

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Lookin' good, can't wait to add these to the consist. These are a vast improvement from the gaudy MTH club cars that they started as.


They will be ready very soon! I have four more to decal and I can knock out two a day, easily. The finishing coat takes time to dry, so hopefully within the week…

Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

No rush, I'd subscribe to the following criteria.

You can have them fast, you can have them good, you can have them cheap. Pick any two.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Krieglok said:


> I have been using both with mixed results. I am not good with the internal brush just yet, but learning…
> 
> Tom


Sent you a PM with a video link.

Opinion, I only like/use internal brushes. You can PM for more info.

Aaron


----------



## Krieglok

86TA355SR said:


> Sent you a PM with a video link.
> 
> Opinion, I only like/use internal brushes. You can PM for more info.
> 
> Aaron


Thanks Aaron. Watched and subscribed. I will try the internal brush tomorrow!

Tom


----------



## Scratch3rail

The cab shape on the 8005 is totally wrong for a K4 (understandable since the mold has its origins in a pre-war freelance locomotive) so rather drastic changes were in order.










before:








After:








I cut the cab sides off, trimmed the running board, and then added a new cab side with the help of my wife 
I still need to frame the cab window and fill in all the gaps, then repeat on the other side.


----------



## Krieglok

Cool project.

What material did you use for the new cab walls?

Looks like a new headlight forming up there too!

Tom


----------



## Scratch3rail

Krieglok said:


> Cool project.
> 
> What material did you use for the new cab walls?
> 
> Looks like a new headlight forming up there too!
> 
> Tom


Thank you!! 
Sheet styrene, I’d never worked with that before so it’s a new foray.

Oh yeah, I decided to move the headlight up a bit to a more scale location. I flattened and repolished a white LED, then wrapped it in styrene and mounted it to a wood platform.


----------



## 86TA355SR

A new toy arrived. Spent today repairing shipment damage.

A lot of bent parts (pilot beyond saving-parts box rescue), replacing/reattaching broken pieces, and painting to put the model back to its original condition. Overall I’m pleased with the result & no sign of any damage is visible. Really fortunate.


----------



## Krieglok

I have had few steamers come through the mail/UPS that were poorly packed. Two were Lionel engines with bent plows…so bent that they touched the middle rail. One used engine, a C&O Pacific via the USPS, needed a completely new pilot.

The other, brand new from MrMuffins, had a broken pilot and the front steps were loose in the box. I ended up buying a replacement pilot for that one as Lionel only offered a return and repair situation. It was a chronic issue due to poor package design by Lionel…the Legacy 4-6-6T…

I would rather do the repairs myself, rather than bounce it around in the mail system and come back broken again…

Tom


----------



## Millstonemike

Krieglok said:


> .... The other, brand new from MrMuffins, had a broken pilot and the front steps were loose in the box. I ended up buying a replacement pilot for that one as Lionel only offered a return and repair situation. It was a chronic issue due to poor package design by Lionel…the Legacy 4-6-6T…
> 
> I would rather do the repairs myself, rather than bounce it around in the mail system and come back broken again…
> 
> Tom


I wonder if Lionel wouldn't offer the replacement pilot for fear buyers would be calling for free parts in the shadow of a new purchase. If so, perhaps emailing a pic of the new unit, the packing and broken part. Lots of companies would rather send you a replacement part than perform a warranty return and repair (shipping, man hours, etc.).


----------



## bluecomet400

Krieglok said:


> Ridgefield Park? as in NYS&W territory?


That would be it..............Ridgefield Park, NJ, the little town where my Dad grew up, just a few miles over the George Washington Bridge. Living that close to New York probably explains why his favorite RR was the NYC. Naming one of the custom-painted cars Ridgefield Park was an easy choice. Its number will be 52, since that was the house number on his childhood home.

Those PRR box cars look great!!


----------



## Millstonemike

bluecomet400 said:


> That would be it..............Ridgefield Park, NJ, the little town where my Dad grew up, just a few miles over the George Washington Bridge. Living that close to New York probably explains why his favorite RR was the NYC. Naming one of the custom-painted cars Ridgefield Park was an easy choice. Its number will be 52, since that was the house number on his childhood home.
> 
> Those PRR box cars look great!!


Name the second one Palisades Park


----------



## bluecomet400

Millstonemike said:


> Name the second one Palisades Park


That's a great idea! If I find a third un-painted car, I'll do that. Harry already has instructions on how to letter the 2 cars, and for the life of me I can't remember what the second car's name is going to be. I guess I'll have to wait for the surprise when he's done with them.


----------



## Millstonemike

bluecomet400 said:


> That's a great idea! If I find a third un-painted car, I'll do that. Harry already has instructions on how to letter the 2 cars, and for the life of me I can't remember what the second car's name is going to be. I guess I'll have to wait for the surprise when he's done with them.


Tnplate Jersey Shore cars ...


----------



## Norton

bluecomet400 said:


> That's a great idea! If I find a third un-painted car, I'll do that. Harry already has instructions on how to letter the 2 cars, and for the life of me I can't remember what the second car's name is going to be. I guess I'll have to wait for the surprise when he's done with them.


I have a bunch of early 18” MTH heavyweights minus trucks if you are interested. They came with silhouettes. Lettered for PRR. Selling cheap. PM me if interested.

Pete


----------



## bluecomet400

Millstonemike, I like your custom-painted commuter train. Did you paint it? Seeing the names on the cars brings back memories......especially Belmar; I used to go deep-sea fishing out of Belmar several times a year. Great fun. 

Thanks, Pete, for the offer; I'm trying to keep my train-buying to a minimum right now. With 3 new steamers on the way (2 MTH Pacifics and 1 Lionel Decapod), I have reached my limit for the time being.


----------



## Norton

I know the feeling John. No problem. They aren’t going anywhere soon.

Pete


----------



## Krieglok

bluecomet400 said:


> That would be it..............Ridgefield Park, NJ, the little town where my Dad grew up, just a few miles over the George Washington Bridge. Living that close to New York probably explains why his favorite RR was the NYC. Naming one of the custom-painted cars Ridgefield Park was an easy choice. Its number will be 52, since that was the house number on his childhood home.
> 
> Those PRR box cars look great!!


The NYC had such a large presence there, especially nearby Weehawken. Freight yards and car floats. An amazing complex, all gone shortly after the creation of Penn Central.

A great past worth commemorating !

Thank you for the kind remarks about my PRR cars. They are on their way to GRJ as I write this!

Tom


----------



## Millstonemike

bluecomet400 said:


> Millstonemike, I like your custom-painted commuter train. Did you paint it? Seeing the names on the cars brings back memories......especially Belmar; I used to go deep-sea fishing out of Belmar several times a year. Great fun.
> 
> Thanks, Pete, for the offer; I'm trying to keep my train-buying to a minimum right now. With 3 new steamers on the way (2 MTH Pacifics and 1 Lionel Decapod), I have reached my limit for the time being.


The engine and cars were sandblasted to bare metal. Then Rustoleum rattle can for paint. The lettering was done on a laser printer with two coats of rattle can clearcoat. Then sandwiched between the car body and the metal window/door inserts. The window inserts got the same treatment as the lettering. I used hot glue to hold those in place.


----------



## Krieglok

Millstonemike said:


> I wonder if Lionel wouldn't offer the replacement pilot for fear buyers would be calling for free parts in the shadow of a new purchase. If so, perhaps emailing a pic of the new unit, the packing and broken part. Lots of companies would rather send you a replacement part than perform a warranty return and repair (shipping, man hours, etc.).


I sent emails with pics of the broken steps and the bill of sale. I described how it looked when I opened it. I could hear the loose parts rattling around inside before I opened the shipping box. They simply didn’t want to send the part. I even offered to pay for it. I had to wait for the locomotive parts list to be installed on their website a couple months later and purchased the part then…

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

Another car project. Relearning weathering…

A MTH Premier car I stripped and repainted for the Raritan River Railroad. Weathered with airbrush.


















Tom


----------



## laz57

Looks great TOM!!👍👍


----------



## Krieglok

Thanks Laz!

I am working on a couple versions, using different paint/decal methods. 

Tom


----------



## laz57

Hi TOM,
I am wondering if you know where I can purchase O scale decals in Reading & Northern? I am thinking of doing a re paint and as of know I can’t find anything in R&N. Can these be made up by someone? I am interested in doing their new paint scheme.


----------



## RotarySirloin

Millstonemike said:


> I wonder if Lionel wouldn't offer the replacement pilot for fear buyers would be calling for free parts in the shadow of a new purchase. If so, perhaps emailing a pic of the new unit, the packing and broken part. Lots of companies would rather send you a replacement part than perform a warranty return and repair (shipping, man hours, etc.).


My Acela had a broken nose cone upon receiving it back in April. I called Lionel and customer support insisted I had to send back the loco just to get a replacement part. Supposedly they weren't shipping them out because so many customers were having this issue. It made no sense to me to ship back a working engine because a user removable cosmetic piece broke during manufacturing or shipment. I had to call my dealer to get a part, and now, I have to ship the set back for an electronic problem anyway. Lionel won in the end I suppose.

I don't get why it's such an issue. It's one thing to be apprehensive to send a replacement shell or board in the mail for free, but a $6 dollar part? Doesn't make sense.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I suspect after the word got around that everyone and their brother was claiming the nose was broke and asking for a replacement, just to have a spare. 😅


----------



## RotarySirloin

That would make sense, that didn't cross my mind. I wonder if they will ever let the nose cone parts on their website become available either. Time will tell!


----------



## Lehigh74

laz57 said:


> Hi TOM,
> I am wondering if you know where I can purchase O scale decals in Reading & Northern? I am thinking of doing a re paint and as of know I can’t find anything in R&N. Can these be made up by someone? I am interested in doing their new paint scheme.


That’s a nice paint job. Thought it was a model at first, but after a good look it’s the real thing in Jim Thorpe. It’s a wonderful thing when a railfan owns a railroad.

I also thought I saw an MTH special with the Fast Freight paint, but didn’t see it in a product search.

I looked at these guys when I was thinking of painting some passenger cars in D&H colors, but ended up getting another set of cars.

Custom Decals (highballgraphics.com)

I did end up having to renumber a few of the cars and ended up making my own.

(1) Using Clear Mailing Labels to Renumber Placards | Model Train Forum


----------



## Krieglok

laz57 said:


> Hi TOM,
> I am wondering if you know where I can purchase O scale decals in Reading & Northern? I am thinking of doing a re paint and as of know I can’t find anything in R&N. Can these be made up by someone? I am interested in doing their new paint scheme.


I am doing a caboose and a couple coaches for fellow. He sent me R&N decals made by CMR decals, Netzlof designs.

They make quite a wide range of R&N decals In all scales. I find them rather difficult to work with, unfortunately. They don’t seem to react with any Decal solvents I have. They tend to lift as they dry and curl if they are soaked a few seconds too long. I am in contact with the manufacturer about the issue to see what they suggest as far as a solvent to use.

You may do better to contact Highball Graphics and see if they can make them for you. If you are brave, try the CMR decals. I have had hit and miss experiences with them. Some are fine, some are very difficult.

Bob has the right idea here, I thinks….

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I suspect after the word got around that everyone and their brother was claiming the nose was broke and asking for a replacement, just to have a spare. 😅


Lionel acted the same way when I tried to get a replacement pilot for their Legacy 4-6-6T, after it arrived with the pilot steps broken off on both sides. It was a widespread issue and many persons complained. It was due to the poor package design. I sent photo documentation, but they refused to send the part. I bought one a few months later after they showed up on their parts website…

Tom


----------



## Scratch3rail

A bit more progress. I botched the cylinders twice, but I’m finally happy with their shape and ability to hold the cross head guides. The cylinders are only set in place in the photos. Additionally I got the other side of the cab installed. Next up, steam vent pipes (not sure what they’re called) and cab details.


----------



## Krieglok

The mods look good. Curious to see the model progress…

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

Putting finishing touches on a cut of cars for GRJ.

A long term project with supply line interruptions and delays.










Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

WOW, looks like my PRR freight train will get longer! I'm running out of yard space to park these, can you come down and add a few tracks to my yard?


----------



## Krieglok

gunrunnerjohn said:


> WOW, looks like my PRR freight train will get longer! I'm running out of yard space to park these, can you come down and add a few tracks to my yard?


Well, I could relieve you of some of your locomotives…that will make room for you!

Cars shipping Tuesday.

Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Hmm... relieving me of locomotives does not solve my problem.


----------



## Norton

Not a lot of train projects for me in the summertime but still do a few small jobs now and then. I picked up these Weaver E8s last year and installed TMCC and the fixed pilot on the leading A unit. Weaver omitted the stirrups on these so I added some from MTH and Lionel. Waiting for parts from Lionel delayed this part of the project.
These engines came with 4 large motors which I did not recognize. I assumed they might be current hogs like Mabuchi 550s and 555s so I put a Cruise Commander in each A unit. Lashed up they drew 2.4 amps total running light. Then tried running all motors from a single Cruise Commander and found they then drew only 1.2 amps. So I am in the process of replacing the second Cruise Commander with just a motherboard for the R2LC and audio boards in the trailing A.
I have only added the details below the shells. The shells themselves were detailed by the late Bob Milli including all the grabs and stacks. The paint looks factory but these are actually repaints by him. I was unaware of his work until I obtained these.










Pete


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Those look great Pete, interesting observation about the Cruise Commander current draw. For four motors, I'd consider tethering the bridge rectifier and bolting it to the chassis for better heat dissipation. The weak link for the Cruise Commander with higher loads is the bridge rectifier. It gets leaky at high temperatures and that takes out the driver FET's. 

Jon Z. dropped that little pearl on me, it does make me wonder why they didn't arrange for the bridge to have heatsinking...


----------



## Norton

I am was aware of the bridge issue and its been removed and mounted to the frame. This is the third MU setup running that way including my 6 motor K-Line E8s powered by a single Cruise M. That last one is still being dyno tested for maximum number of cars. I have to find a place where I can use all 22 of my Lionel passenger cars.

Pete


----------



## Millstonemike

Stately lookers for sure.

Any theories on why two control units (Cruise Commander) with cause double the amp draw? I have no knowledge of the new control electronics (TMCC, et. al.). But I'd guess the modules themselves draw minimal current compared to the motor loads.


----------



## Norton

Millstonemike said:


> Stately lookers for sure.
> 
> Any theories on why two control units (Cruise Commander) with cause double the amp draw? I have no knowledge of the new control electronics (TMCC, et. al.). But I'd guess the modules themselves draw minimal current compared to the motor loads.


My theory is multiple drivers are rarely in perfect sync. That causes the engines to fight each other. Lionel gets arounf that problem with back drivable gears but a lot of earlier engines don’t have those mechanics. With one driver all the motors get the same voltage applied.
My six motor UP E8s only draws 1.4 amps running light. Of course total stall current is about 13 amps so protection is needed.

Pete


----------



## Millstonemike

Norton said:


> My theory is multiple drivers are rarely in perfect sync. That causes the engines to fight each other. Lionel gets arounf that problem with back drivable gears but a lot of earlier engines don’t have those mechanics. With one driver all the motors get the same voltage applied.
> My six motor UP E8s only draws 1.4 amps running light. Of course total stall current is about 13 amps so protection is needed.
> 
> Pete


My thinking was similar. But DC can motors are natural transmissions. If one was driven faster (higher voltage) than another, the higher voltage motor would just bear more of the load. Thinking a little further, and, assuming the electronics provide pulse width modulation to control power, one could be on while the other is off - out of sync. But I'd think the mechanical inertia of the drives would absorb that. Can the modules detect overspeed and reverse polarity to slow and engine running faster than commanded? That would explain it.

What's the definition of "back drivable gears". The ability of a worm drive to be rotated by the wheels?

And why is the rectifier the weak link? Non-optimum part for the job. I would think the drive IC's would be the weaker link. Or is it just the lack of heat sinking where the drive ICs have some.

All academic on my part as you have the solution. Just very curious on the inner workings of the system, you know, a little kid's "why"  . Sorry to belabor the issue.


----------



## Norton

Yes a back drivable engine you can push down the track. I forgot the number but it has to do with the angle of the motor worm and worm gear. The fighting is due to cruise trying to compensate for speed differences. Sometime I will turn Cruise off on two engines and see if it makes a difference.

Pete


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

You can use the nudge feature on the Cruise Commanders to match the speeds, that should greatly reduce any fighting to match speeds. Obviously, if the gear ratios aren't the same, this advice doesn't work.

Truthfully, I'd have to see this to figure out why the same engines with two Cruise Commanders would behave that way since it doesn't appear to be a gear ratio issue.


Millstonemike said:


> And why is the rectifier the weak link? Non-optimum part for the job. I would think the drive IC's would be the weaker link. Or is it just the lack of heat sinking where the drive ICs have some.


The FET drivers are capable of handling many amps, typically 15-20 amps for the drivers used on these products. The bane of the FET drivers is reverse leakage currents from overloaded DC power supplies. Even a small amount of reverse voltage leakage appears to have a major effect on the relability of the FET drivers. Beefing up the rectifier performance with a heatsink is a major improvement. It's also why many of the Legacy models have a tethered bridge on their DCDS.


----------



## Norton

Using the nudge feature helps. My experience is limited to three different MUs. Maybe there is a method to get current draw down to a point that matches a single driver.
I am more motivated to use the least number of components to achieve the desired results, especially with prices nowadays.
BTW actual current draw for the four Weaver motors is closer to .8 amps. The higher number was due to the .3 amps used by the TIU in the current path and quiescent current of the sound and receiver boards. 

Pete


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Pete, I'm in total agreement. With a tethered bridge there's no reason at all to use two Cruise Commanders when one will do! Since they're going for $150/ea nowadays, eliminating an unneeded extra is a nice cost savings.

Another bonus is, the second unit never gets out of sync with the first, in command or conventional. Those wires between units always call the correct tune!


----------



## Krieglok

A bit further with the striped paint scheme for the Raritan River boxcar. Using Big Jim’s suggestions, I achieved better results. I just need to work on the paint on the doors. The ribs make things difficult. 



















I have a request from another collector for a RR boxcar in 0-27. I have a couple being stripped now and they will get the same paint scheme…

Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

The final shipment of PRR boxcar shells came in, so after assembly I thought it was time to give them all a run. I cogitated a bit about the motive power, but then settled on my choice as shown in the video.


----------



## Norton

Wow, very impressive. Are all the boxcars Tom’s repaints?

Pete


----------



## lou1985

Krieglok said:


> A bit further with the striped paint scheme for the Raritan River boxcar. Using Big Jim’s suggestions, I achieved better results. I just need to work on the paint on the doors. The ribs make things difficult.
> 
> View attachment 585480
> 
> 
> View attachment 585481
> 
> 
> I have a request from another collector for a RR boxcar in 0-27. I have a couple being stripped now and they will get the same paint scheme…
> 
> Tom


They came out really decently though. As I've said before masking over bumps, like what's on that door, are a PITA. Vinyl masking tape is probably the way to go there.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Norton said:


> Wow, very impressive. Are all the boxcars Tom’s repaints?
> 
> Pete


Yep Pete, all 19 PRR cars are the ones that Tom painted. It makes a great looking consist.  I could use another ten or so, just need to find the $10 club cars again!


----------



## Krieglok

gunrunnerjohn said:


> The final shipment of PRR boxcar shells came in, so after assembly I thought it was time to give them all a run. I cogitated a bit about the motive power, but then settled on my choice as shown in the video.


Great video, John!
It is nice to see all the cars back together now. Those silver trucks…though! Lol. Figures it was the thirteenth car in the consist!

Nice choice of locomotives too! It would be cool to see a M1 pulling the string at track speed!

Tom


----------



## Desperado

Is there something special about just one of them having silver trucks?


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

The silver trucks will be replaced, I have the proper trucks, just didn't take the time when I was reassembling. Since these are repainted MTH Club Cars, I guess that year they had silver trucks. 

Nobody mentioned that they all have roller bearing trucks, I'm sure back in the steam era that wasn't standard either.


----------



## Krieglok

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Nobody mentioned that they all have roller bearing trucks, I'm sure back in the steam era that wasn't standard either.


We were just being polite and not mentioning your glaring disregard for historical correctness…lol😉😉😉

Enjoy the cars John! Number 20 will be on the way soon!

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

A new car in my collection. It is a Weaver 40’ boxcar I stripped and repainted for Atlantic and Western. The color called for a cream color and the closest I could find, was “Almond” in Krylon form. It actually went on well for a large spray can. The roof is Testors silver.

The A&W was a short line in North Carolina. They owned a fleet of food lading cars (marked “XF”) that were used in grain service out of Buffalo, NY.

Here is the finished car…



















Tom


----------



## Desperado

I really an very envious of your guys' skill with these. I mean it looks perfect! Colors, graphics - just exceptional!


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Krieglok said:


> We were just being polite and not mentioning your glaring disregard for historical correctness…lol😉😉😉
> 
> Enjoy the cars John! Number 20 will be on the way soon!
> 
> Tom


Gosh, I hope it doesn't overload the three A-5 locomotives!


----------



## Krieglok

I recently bought a MTH GP9 shell decorated for the CNJ. I purchased two pilot/steps and researched a suitable matching color paint to paint them with.

With some help from Jim and Joe, over at the OGR forum, I was directed to Tru-Color CNJ Deep Sea Green paint. I bought a bottle of the paint and airbrushed the steps. The paint worked very well. I painted the safety colors yellow and the MU hoses with grimy black. I gave them a shot of satin clear coat to match the engine finish…











The next step was to acquire a dummy chassis. I found a dummy unit on EBay at a decent price. The top of the fuel tank needed to be painted to match the engine also. The tank was masked off and painted. Another nice match.

Nothing in the way of lighting or smoke in this engine. An easy project made using various parts from different sources.


















It will perhaps receive some added details such as lift rings, and other small items to match the Atlas CNJ GP9 that will pull it…

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

Doing some Raritan River 0-27 boxcars. The back two are experimental and the front one is for a client. The decals are a mix of Fusion Raritan River decals and K4 letter decals…

The trio awaits a couple clear coat treatments and reassembly…










Tom


----------



## Millstonemike

Krieglok said:


> Doing some Raritan River 0-27 boxcars. The back two are experimental and the front one is for a client. The decals are a mix of Fusion Raritan River decals and K4 letter decals…
> 
> The trio awaits a couple clear coat treatments and reassembly…
> 
> View attachment 585823
> 
> 
> Tom


My Alma Mata's song "On the Banks of the Old Raritan".


----------



## Krieglok

Rutgers…. In New Brumfis…

The fellow who commissioned the cars grew up near there and attended college at Rutgers…

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

A new “shell project”, this time featuring a B&O GP9 MTH shell. I purchased a non powered GP9 ( in CB&Q colors), painted the fuel tank and trucks with C&O blue, painted the steps with Testors Camel Yellow and put it all together.

This dummy will be pulled by a powered Atlas unit or another powered MTH PS3 GP9…

Tom


----------



## Millstonemike

Reminds of a visual version of the old Memorex tagline "Is it Memorex or is it live?"


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

That looks great Tom, are those stick-on letters you used for the cab numbers?


----------



## Krieglok

The shell was a factory paint job from MTH. I painted the fuel tank, truck frames and steps to match the shell.

I wish I could paint that well!

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

Millstonemike said:


> Reminds of a visual version of the old Memorex tagline "Is it Memorex or is it live?"


Definitely live…😉

Tom


----------



## Millstonemike

gunrunnerjohn said:


> That looks great Tom, are those stick-on letters you used for the cab numbers?
> 
> View attachment 585988


Thanks for the idea. I may want to try them on my tinplate.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I know that Lee Willis used a lot of stick-on letters very successfully, and those looked like they had "depth", so I was wondering.


----------



## Krieglok

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I know that Lee Willis used a lot of stick-on letters very successfully, and those looked like they had "depth", so I was wondering.


It may be the lighting. They look normal in person. Interesting effect though…

Tom


----------



## lou1985

I finally started on some CNW heavyweights to go with my Premier CNW Hudson. CNW passenger cars are few and far between, so I decided to paint my own using east to acquire K-Line PRR heavyweights as a base. First up are a coach and diner. I've only got another coach, a baggage car, a Pullman, and an observation car to go. Decals are from Protocraft, which are made by Microscale.


----------



## lou1985

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I know that Lee Willis used a lot of stick-on letters very successfully, and those looked like they had "depth", so I was wondering.


The key to stick on letters is a high quality vinyl cutter and automotive grade vinyl. I know a guy who is a professional automotive vinyl guy by trade and will make me railroad decals on occasion. Apply, burnish, then clear coat. The vinyl is really thin and looks painted on. The best part is there is no decal film. This UP Challenger tender was done with automotive vinyl for the lettering and numbers.


----------



## Krieglok

I really need to explore the Protocraft decals. I am having good luck with K4 decals, but they sell less common roadnames, especially in the passenger and diesel locomotive categories. 

The stick on letters would be nice for certain projects. Clear coating to eliminate decal lines is my nemesis.

Lou, the cars look great. The lighting is nice and bright. Most of my Erie passenger cars are repainted K-Line cars. I love them!

Tom


----------



## Millstonemike

lou1985 said:


> The key to stick on letters is a high quality vinyl cutter and automotive grade vinyl. I know a guy who is a professional automotive vinyl guy by trade and will make me railroad decals on occasion. Apply, burnish, then clear coat. The vinyl is really thin and looks painted on. The best part is there is no decal film. This UP Challenger tender was done with automotive vinyl for the lettering and numbers.
> 
> View attachment 586076


I tried to do that this week with several online vendors. None of their machines could cut the vinyl 18 pt. Ariel font. The pic shows one vendor's "proof" with problem areas.


----------



## 86TA355SR

lou1985 said:


> ….I know a guy who is a professional automotive vinyl guy by trade and will make me railroad decals on occasion. Apply, burnish, then clear coat. The vinyl is really thin and looks painted on. The best part is there is no decal film. This UP Challenger tender was done with automotive vinyl for the lettering and numbers.



Lou,
What font did you use? That looks exactly like the correct UP lettering.

Thanks,
Aaron


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Lou,
> What font did you use? That looks exactly like the correct UP lettering.
> 
> Thanks,
> Aaron


It's the correct UP font. The guy I know has correct RR fonts from somewhere.


----------



## lou1985

Millstonemike said:


> I tried to do that this week with several online vendors. None of their machines could cut the vinyl 18 pt. Ariel font. The pic shows one vendor's "proof" with problem areas.
> 
> 
> View attachment 586101


I think the machine the guy I know uses is much more expensive then something like a Cricket or Silhouette cutter. Since he does automotive vinyl graphics the machine is much more precise and can cut small lettering .


----------



## Millstonemike

lou1985 said:


> I think the machine the guy I know uses is much more expensive then something like a Cricket or Silhouette cutter. Since he does automotive vinyl graphics the machine is much more precise and can cut small lettering .


Any chance he would be able to cut some for a reasonable fee. The pic is actual size.


----------



## lou1985

Millstonemike said:


> Any chance he would be able to cut some for a reasonable fee. The pic is actual size.
> 
> View attachment 586175


I'll ask. The vinyl decals cost significantly more than waterslide due to material cost, setup, and weeding of the finished product.


----------



## 86TA355SR

lou1985 said:


> It's the correct UP font. The guy I know has correct RR fonts from somewhere.


Lou,

Can you PM details? I’d like to make my own but haven’t been able to find the correct font….

Champ/Microscale are getting hard to find.


----------



## Norton

86TA355SR said:


> Lou,
> 
> Can you PM details? I’d like to make my own but haven’t been able to find the correct font….
> 
> Champ/Microscale are getting hard to find.


Have you seen these? I used them on my 4014 and 844. He made them in white at my request. I believe he has other sets. He responds to emails.









Union Pacific 4014 844 Steam O Scale Decals | eBay


Union Pacific 4014 844 Steam O Scale Decals Union Pacific 4014 844 Steam O Scale Decals. © Circus City Decals & Graphics. PICK UP OPTION. You might also like.



www.ebay.com





Pete


----------



## 86TA355SR

Norton said:


> Have you seen these? I used them on my 4014 and 844. He made them in white at my request. I believe he has other sets. He responds to emails.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Union Pacific 4014 844 Steam O Scale Decals | eBay
> 
> 
> Union Pacific 4014 844 Steam O Scale Decals Union Pacific 4014 844 Steam O Scale Decals. © Circus City Decals & Graphics. PICK UP OPTION. You might also like.
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pete


Pete,

Yes, I have. Would rather have the flexibility to print my own but it’s certainly an option to keep in mind if needed. Great info, thanks.


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Lou,
> 
> Can you PM details? I’d like to make my own but haven’t been able to find the correct font….
> 
> Champ/Microscale are getting hard to find.


I'm still waiting to hear back from my guy.

You can contact Circus City like Pete mentioned. I'm pretty sure he can make you whatever you want using the correct font for a reasonable price.


----------



## 86TA355SR

lou1985 said:


> I'm still waiting to hear back from my guy.…


Thanks Lou, appreciate any insight he may have.


----------



## Krieglok

A couple projects…

I finished a project that went on for almost a year. I bought an unpowered MTH F3 and stripped the paint. I had plans for painting it PennCentral, but changed my mind. I sat in a shoe box for the winter and spring. I pulled it out last week and I swapped the high profile F3 fan shrouds with some shrouds from an F7 to give it a slightly more modern look. I painted it B&O Royal Blue and decaled it using Microscale decals. It is sort of a fake F7, but I like the paint scheme. Not a scheme that is available in modern o scale engines…


























It will like receive a light weathering job…

I also painted a boxcar for the B&O. I saw a couple on eBay I liked, but the bids went too high, so I painted my own. It is an MTH Premier York car I stripped and repainted. I also installed friction bearing trucks…











Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

So you call that one a short F7?


----------



## Krieglok

gunrunnerjohn said:


> So you call that one a short F7?


Maybe a F-3-7….😏

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

*I finished a new boxcar this week. It is a Weaver 40’ car that started life as a “Radio station Christmas car“. I stripped it with Scalecoat “wash-away” paint stripper for plastic. It seems the special painted Weaver cars are resistant to the 90% isopropyl I use on MTH cars.

The car was painted with Scalecoat II Boxcar Red #2. The decal set is a K4 set, for the* *Nashville, Chattanooga and St. Louis Railway. The car was reassembled after painting and diecast trucks and couplers were installed along with some weights.










The decal sheet comes with two different sets for two cars. The other set has a small logo, but no slogan. That car will be done next.











Tom*


----------



## Krieglok

Another paint project.

This one was an MTH gondola that I stripped and repainted with Tamiya dull red paint. I decaled it for the Wellsville Addison and Galeton Railroad. I used Tichy decals, which work well, but unfortunately they are slightly too big to fit between the side ribs of the car. MTH, Atlas and Weaver gondolas have slightly narrow spaces and the decals need to be trimmed to achieve a tolerable fit.










In real life, these gondolas were used to transport animal hides and carcasses from slaughter houses to tanneries, where they would process the material into glue and leather products. As they were open top cars, the contents would become rather fetid during their journey. In hot weather, they stunk and leaked rotten fluids. The train crews hated handling them. Mixed with rain, made them even worse.










The WAG was known as the “Sole Leather Line” due to the tanneries located along the line. The tanneries were located in North Central Pennsylvania, where there were abundant forests of Hemlock trees which supplied bark, which in turn, was refined into tannic acid and used to tan hides for the leather industry.

I tried my hand at weathering with some washes and a dry brushing technique. It worked okay. Just need to refine the process a bit…











Tom


----------



## Norton

Drove through Westfield and Galeton Thursday Tom. The tannery in Westfield has been torn down and is just an empty field today. It survived many years unused.

Pete


----------



## Lehigh74

Interesting lesson on the WAG. I like to run my coal hoppers with real anthracite loads. Based on what those gondolas hauled, I think I would run them without loads.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Tom, 
Nice job on the weathering. Once you start, it’s a blast, and that effect, creating realism, really adds to a model. It’s a whole other part of painting and the hobby.

Aaron


----------



## Krieglok

Norton said:


> Drove through Westfield and Galeton Thursday Tom. The tannery in Westfield has been torn down and is just an empty field today. It survived many years unused.
> 
> Pete


I explored those areas many years ago. I would love to get back up there one of these days soon.


Lehigh74 said:


> Interesting lesson on the WAG. I like to run my coal hoppers with real anthracite loads. Based on what those gondolas hauled, I think I would run them without loads.


I thought of trying to make a casting of a load like that. Might be too gruesome and I really am not sure what it would look like…

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

86TA355SR said:


> Tom,
> Nice job on the weathering. Once you start, it’s a blast, and that effect, creating realism, really adds to a model. It’s a whole other part of painting and the hobby.
> 
> Aaron


Thanks Aaron. I just used the dry brush technique that I used when I was a kid building military models. Adding rust streaks and road dust seemed easier than with an airbrush. I have weathered steam engines with an airbrush before with good results. I may try a combination of dry brushing and air brushing on a couple freight cars…

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Tom,

I‘m glad to see others like you building, painting, and weathering models.

A variety of techniques to attain realistic finishes are used by some of the best modelers. As a resource, been watching different model media videos. Tank modelers are masters of fading / chipping paint, creating mud effects, painting realistic figures in dioramas. Aircraft modelers, creating natural metal finishes and “marbling”. Watched a tractor weatherEd-the grease, fuel stains & grime he painted was fantastic. Perfect transfer to locomotives.

A lot of techniques/ideas, many I would’ve never thought of on my own, are easy to do.


----------



## Krieglok

Another couple projects, filling out my B&O Geep collection and correcting some steam…

This is a MTH GP9 with PS1. It is a good runner and I am doing some minor upgrades, detail wise.










So far I have just painted the chromed air horns. I plan on installing some lift rings and windshield wipers. It will also get a weathering treatment.

One issue I have is the fuel tank. The “Torpedo Tube” GPs had the main reservoir tanks on the roof, with a larger fuel tank underneath. This model has the incorrect small tank with the reservoirs, when it should have the plain larger tank. Of course, MTH is sold out of the proper tanks…

****

Next….

I also have my MTH H-9 cleaned up, ready for the Western Maryland lettering on the tender. I am going with the earlier plain lettering and found the decals through Tichy Decal company. Their decals are a bit tricky but hopefully they will work out well…











Tom


----------



## Lehigh74

I like the look of that B&O Geep. I have a PS3 B&O GP7. The differences are interesting…long hood forward, horns on long hood, fuel tank fills the space between the trucks.


----------



## Krieglok

Lehigh74 said:


> I like the look of that B&O Geep. I have a PS3 B&O GP7. The differences are interesting…long hood forward, horns on long hood, fuel tank fills the space between the trucks.
> View attachment 587404


It seems MTH wasn’t too worried about being prototypical with their early efforts. Other than the wrong tank, most of the details are pretty much correct. The engine isn’t marked with the “F” but yes, they were long hood forward.

The PS3 version also has painted handrails, which I will do on mine…

Tom


----------



## Norton

Tom, this is a Lionel NW2 tank. Would that work? In stock.










Pete


----------



## Krieglok

Pete,

Unfortunately no. Thanks for the suggestion though. This is the one I need…










Tom


----------



## Norton

Lionel has bigger tanks.





__





Search results for "Fuel%20tank"







www.lionelsupport.com





Pete


----------



## Krieglok

Norton said:


> Lionel has bigger tanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Search results for "Fuel%20tank"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.lionelsupport.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pete


 I am going to try a Lionel GP9 tank. It will require modifications to fit, but I am willing to give it a try…

Tom


----------



## lou1985

Got another K-Line PRR coach repainted into Chicago and Northwestern colors.


----------



## lou1985

Krieglok said:


> I also have my MTH H-9 cleaned up, ready for the Western Maryland lettering on the tender. I am going with the earlier plain lettering and found the decals through Tichy Decal company. Their decals are a bit tricky but hopefully they will work out well…
> 
> View attachment 587395
> 
> 
> 
> Tom


Little tip: polish the area you are decaling with some light automotive polish (NOT wax) to bring up the gloss a bit and smooth out the surface. After decaling apply clear that matches the rest of the sheen and you're good to go. I used that technique with a MTH Premier Mikado I converted to ATSF.


----------



## Krieglok

Thanks for the tip Lou. I am using Tichy decals which are a bit difficult to apply. Any pointers are welcome!

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

Great looking stuff Lou. The C&NW coach looks great. And of course, the 2-8-2 looks perfect. I had already decaled my 2-8-0 when I read your post, but next time I will give the method a try.

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

I basically finished my Western Maryland H-9 today.

I used Tichy WM steam decals. They give you a nice set of decals for numerous paint styles, but I opted for the older plain WM scheme. The decal sheets are odd that they don’t give a decent amount of numbers that correlate with the class engine they were designed for. I bought two separate sets as I usually need a back up as the decals don’t always turn out right. I used them both as a couple decal placements didn’t turn out well. Both numbers and letters. 

That was the case with this engine. The Tichy decals are prone to bubbling no matter how well you press them. If you apply a decal solvent, the decals turn “rubbery” and distort. Tichy recommends painting the back of the decal with white glue before applying. That is definitely true. After a couple tries with the tender, I found applying a coat of thinned white glue directly to the engine and then fixing the decal to the spot worked best.I blotted the decal with a damp napkin and after the glue dries, any excess or spotting can be removed with alcohol swabs. It removes the white glue from the paint, but doesn’t bother the decal as long as you are careful.

The decals dried very shiny but very flat/smooth too. I expected that. A couple coats of Tamyia flat clear worked well, hiding the decal edges and giving a uniform look to the paint.









I originally planned on weathering this engine. The finish actually came better than I figured it would. I may just leave as it is now…


































I also received my Western Maryland caboose from MrMuffins today. It is the early paint scheme and goes perfect with my early locomotive paint scheme…


















Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Locomotive looks fantastic, Tom. You did a wonderful job with the decals.

Refresh my memory - did you do some work to this or a renumber?


----------



## Krieglok

Thanks Aaron.

Just a repaint. The engine came decorated as a Illinois Central locomotive. I just stripped the lettering and numbers before decaling…









Tom


----------



## lou1985

Nice job on re-lettering that Consolidation. I think it came out great. You description of Tichy decals, however, makes me not want to use them.


----------



## Krieglok

lou1985 said:


> Nice job on re-lettering that Consolidation. I think it came out great. You description of Tichy decals, however, makes me not want to use them.


Thanks Lou.

Yes, they were the only WM steam decals I could find. They work but they make you work for good results. I have used their boxcar and gondola decals with no problem. The glue application is a must on the bigger sized decals though.

Tom


----------



## laz57

Beautiful job on the WM engine, TOM. 👍👍


----------



## 86TA355SR

Krieglok said:


> Thanks Aaron.
> 
> Just a repaint. The engine came decorated as a Illinois Central locomotive. I just stripped the lettering and numbers before decaling…
> Tom


Wow, it’s a night and day difference! Great work!


----------



## Scratch3rail

After my wife had to have knee surgery it took a bit to come back to the K-4 project, but I got it assembled yesterday to test the mechanisms and fit, and while not perfect, I’m really satisfied with the result 











Next is a 226 single axle trailing truck and a diy 4 wheel pilot.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Started a new project. First paint on stack, lots to do on the smoke box.



First attempt with “oil brushers“. Really like this product.


----------



## Krieglok

Eager to follow your project and the techniques. I am still debating weathering my H9 or possibly another steam engine…

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

The oil brushers are a cool product. Basically it’s oil paint, thinned, in an easy to use tube, with its own brush. You can even mix colors to create a new one. I can see lots of uses for it, neat product.

The properties of oil allow time to work the product to desired results. 

The inside of the smoke deflector above was a quick trial run.


----------



## Krieglok

A intermediate update on my B&O GP9. MTH was fresh out of the full sized fuel tank that this engine should have. I took a spare MTH GP9 tank and wrapped in in sheet styrene and fabricated an end piece for the tank. For a first time effort, it came out okay.



















it needs a little paint touch up, but that will be done after I add some more detail parts…

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Sweet! Who needs parts when you can make your own?!

Look forward to your progress.


----------



## Lehigh74

looks good to my eye.


----------



## Krieglok

86TA355SR said:


> Sweet! Who needs parts when you can make your own?!
> 
> Look forward to your progress.


I need to work on my filling and sanding my styrene work. There are a couple small spots that aren’t quite right, so I may take another shot at it..or at least fix the spots on the current tank…

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Tender shell weathering progress. Will add oil stains to fill port after final clear.



Smoke box. All the stains are using oil brushers, either full strength or small amount of thinner.


----------



## Krieglok

Nice. Did you highlight the rivets and other details? They definitely are visible…

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Tom,

Yes, only on smoke box front. I used a home made “wash” of black, brown, burnt umber around the door. The tender was airbrushEd with a “fade” only. Still needs some blending.

I just finished the smoke box, stains on bell, final boiler wash, & superheater stains.

separate note, had a self-induced air brush accident. Not used to the Sotar but like it.


----------



## Norton

Aaron, that is a some fine work. Each project seems to get better.

I finally got around to upgrading my K-Line Hudson. This was my first scale engine and started me down the road of more scale trains vs traditional.
I found a motor on eBay that looked like it might fit in this engine and had nearly twice the torque. Upgrade consisted of replacing the smaller Mabuchi motor, giving it 4 chuffs and replacing the puffer smoke unit.

New motor is second from the left, old motor on the far right. Plus a few smaller Pittmans.









Installation just required removing a small bit of metal on the valve hangers plus swapping the gear to the new motor and drilling and tapping the motor end plate to match mounting hole location of the Mabuchi.

Next to get the four chuffs the two lobe cam was replaced with a 4 lobe.



















After a few false starts I ended up using a early Legacy smoke unit, small enough to fit (barely) and didn’t require any alteration of the engine. A mount was then made to accommodate it.










Since this unit had no onboard power for the fan motor, I made one using an adjustable voltage regulator set for 3.4v. After looking at many smoke fan motors and determining this one has a smaller FF-N10 motor I decided to go with a lower voltage as almost all N-10s seem to be rated for 3 volts vs 5 on the slightly larger and more common N-20s. Also these units have a reputation for dead fan motors and I am hoping the lower drive voltage helps.

Here is frame taken from a video to give an idea of smoke output.









Testing on tractive effort will have wait until next month when our club does its next show.

Pete


----------



## 86TA355SR

Pete,

You & Lou do some amazing work, especially in electronics. If I was still a 3 railer I’d have you two upgrade a few models and Tom paint an entire train!

About finished with the newest project. Paint is done. Reassemble and final details ahead.

Here‘s the boiler as of now:


----------



## Krieglok

Pete’s mechanical/electrical work is amazing. That is one thing I definitely lack the skills to perform. Same with Aaron’s weathering work. Working with the oil paints is meticulous and takes a lot of patience. 

Tom


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Pete,
> 
> You & Lou do some amazing work, especially in electronics. If I was still a 3 railer I’d have you two upgrade a few models and Tom paint an entire train!
> 
> About finished with the newest project. Paint is done. Reassemble and final details ahead.
> 
> Here‘s the boiler as of now:
> 
> View attachment 587819



Nice weathering job. Who made the model of the 3 stack FEF-3? 

My MTH Premier FEF-3 is missing the supports for the smoke deflectors. I really need to make some.


----------



## 86TA355SR

lou1985 said:


> Nice weathering job. Who made the model of the 3 stack FEF-3?
> 
> My MTH Premier FEF-3 is missing the supports for the smoke deflectors. I really need to make some.


Overland. It’s a beautiful model. IMO, they made the best FEFs. Their FEF-1s (and FEF-3s) were works of art.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Started a project to convert the K-Line speeder to command control, for this one I am going to try to stuff sound into it as well. I tried to make the cavity large enough to fit the ERR Mini Commander II in as well as the ERR RailSounds Commander. I'll be using the gas powered doodlebug sound set, it seems the most appropriate for a small track speeder.










Here's the complement of boards and the speaker that will be used.










From all appearances, it seems I can fit them in. It will be a tight fit, but I can interleave the components and generous use of Kapton tape for insulation will assist in that effort. I may end up removing some connectors and hard wiring to the PCB pads, yet to be determined. The speaker will be mounted to the inside of the cab with some sound holes before I glue the last panel in.

I also trimmed all the excess leads off both boards to minimize their height as much as possible.










Since the seats were too large and an integral part of the frame, they were chopped off and will be replaced with seats and suitable O-scale sized figures to drive the speeder.










Finally, I'll be losing the traction tire, I'll pull that wheel and replace it with a non-grooved wheel. With a short four-wheel motorized unit, having any wheel not pulling it's weight with power pickup is bad news. The need for a traction tire on such a vehicle has always mystified me!

My thinking is to paint it yellow for M.O.W. as that fits in with any road name.


----------



## Norton

I’ll be following this as I have one but sending the giants off to exile, I don’t know about that.

Pete


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Pete, I'm donating them to a G-Scale layout, they're about the right size!


----------



## Norton

Who is the Lionel gateman going to hangout with now? Poor guy. Maybe you could sit the speeder guys on a bench next to gatehouse?

Pete


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Good point, anyone have a gatehouse that needs some engineers to keep it company?


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

First run, just the running gear and sound working. I haven't wired the lights yet as painting comes first. The sound with the little speaker is actually better than I expected.


----------



## laz57

Very cool GUNS!!👍👍. Better check that front end, looked like it hit that abutment?😀, before going in reverse. I like the sounds too.


----------



## Big Ed

gunrunnerjohn said:


> First run, just the running gear and sound working. I haven't wired the lights yet as painting comes first. The sound with the little speaker is actually better than I expected.


What, no smoke? 
That is the fastest thing I have seen run on your table so far.


----------



## Krieglok

A sound bite with a small “hit and miss” engine would be perfect! 

When I started in track on the railroad, we still had these speeders. The engines were simple putt putts and the speeder was reversed by slowing the engine to a point where you actually reversed the rotation of the engine. It was all belt driven.

I would be curious to see your speeder next to a locomotive. The speeder doesn’t look too big to be O scale.

A gang car would give you a larger body to work with. The car you are working with is an inspection car designed for two people. A gang car could carry four to six workers.

A fun project John. Very nice!

Tom


----------



## Norton

It is pretty cute. I would have to keep the giants as these things are big hit at the train shows. Kids would love it. I have a Lionel TMCC inspection car modeled after the one at the B&O Museum with the two axle truck in front. No sound as its scale size a quite tiny. Always turn heads at the shows.










Pete


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Norton said:


> It is pretty cute. I would have to keep the giants as these things are big hit at the train shows. Kids would love it. I have a Lionel TMCC inspection car modeled after the one at the B&O Museum with the two axle truck in front. No sound as its scale size a quite tiny. Always turn heads at the shows.


Pete, I have one of those inspection cars. It's OK on open track, but it has it's problems traversing some switches. There are too many switches on our modular layout to run it without issues. I agree that the kids love the small stuff, I always bring my assortment of small motorized units to the shows. I just stick them on the track and run them around a few times with the other traffic and then put another one on.


Krieglok said:


> A sound bite with a small “hit and miss” engine would be perfect!


The closest I could come was the ERR Gasoline Powered Sound Set, I'm pretty restricted to the ERR RS-Lite boards for fit and compatibility.


laz57 said:


> Very cool GUNS!!👍👍. Better check that front end, looked like it hit that abutment?😀, before going in reverse. I like the sounds too.


Well, when you hit the TMCC reverse instead of slowing down with the throttle, they do stop pretty suddenly.  I was just tickled that all the stuff fit and it ran well.


----------



## Norton

Were the later speeders using hit and miss engines. I thought Fairmont used conventional pistion gas engines maybe more than one cylinder.
Rick Dale’s American Restoration did one for the Nevada Northern museum that had a flathed Ford V8.









NV Northern Railway on Twitter | American restoration, Model trains, Railway


Mar 28, 2015 - “Sat. at 11 AM, Free Speeder Rides on Speeder seen on TV on American Restoration! Free Cupcakes, Champagne & more”




www.pinterest.com





Pete


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Norton said:


> Were the later speeders using hit and miss engines. I thought Fairmont used conventional pistion gas engines maybe more than one cylinder.
> Rick Dale’s American Restoration did one for the Nevada Northern museum that had a flathed Ford V8.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NV Northern Railway on Twitter | American restoration, Model trains, Railway
> 
> 
> Mar 28, 2015 - “Sat. at 11 AM, Free Speeder Rides on Speeder seen on TV on American Restoration! Free Cupcakes, Champagne & more”
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.pinterest.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pete


I'm guessing the flathead V8 was not stock in the speeder.  It would be a fun ride however! 
The stock Fairmont speeder engine appears to be a single cylinder.


----------



## Krieglok

Norton said:


> Were the later speeders using hit and miss engines. I thought Fairmont used conventional pistion gas engines maybe more than one cylinder.
> Rick Dale’s American Restoration did one for the Nevada Northern museum that had a flathed Ford V8.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NV Northern Railway on Twitter | American restoration, Model trains, Railway
> 
> 
> Mar 28, 2015 - “Sat. at 11 AM, Free Speeder Rides on Speeder seen on TV on American Restoration! Free Cupcakes, Champagne & more”
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.pinterest.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pete


I never saw an original inspection car with anything but hit or miss engines. Gang cars could have 4-8 cylinders depending on size and desired speed and pulling power. I saw a speeder that had a Ford Pinto 4 cylinder gas engine, but automotive engines really weren’t used in original production, as far as I know. Some had Waukesha or Hercules gas engines with actual transmissions.

Here is a Fairmont site that is pretty interesting….https://www.wplives.org/mow_pages/pdf/fairmont1944b.pdf

Speeders and gang cars were fast, no matter what. They also had wood brake shoes that were hand or foot powered. I knew a few old timers who worked for the B&O and PRR. They all had lasting injuries from derailments of their gang cars. They simply were not safe…

We were so happy when the railroad I worked for, bought a couple hi-rail trucks and sidelined the speeder and gang car…

Tom


----------



## Norton

Tom, you differentiate between a gang car and speeder. I just lump them all together. What is the difference?

Pete


----------



## Krieglok

A speeder, or inspection car was made for two people to ride. They are on the small side. The gang cars are larger for carrying up to six riders. They are made bigger.

One big selling point that was incorporated into all track cars was the need to be able to get them off the tracks so trains could pass. This was done with poles that slid out and provided leverage to lift and swivel the car off the track. A speeder was small enough for one man to move it off the tracks. The larger gang cars had the same system, but two men would be needed to move the car off the track.

With that in mind, a large heavy motor would make the car too heavy to leveraged off the tracks with normal man power…

Tom


----------



## Dano

Re-hashing a couple of Rivarossi C-Liners, watching paint and putty dry.


----------



## Krieglok

Dano, do you use Squadron White Putty? I have a couple tubes that a few years old and it seems the putty has separated a bit. It still works though…just runny.

Tom


----------



## Dano

Krieglok said:


> Dano, do you use Squadron White Putty? I have a couple tubes that a few years old and it seems the putty has separated a bit. It still works though…just runny.
> 
> Tom


I find that some times it is runnier than others. You have to goop it on to allow for shrinkage that's for sure.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

My go-to adhesive/filler is still JB-Weld. Unless I need the ultimate strength or long working time, I use JB-Kwik.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Krieglok said:


> Dano, do you use Squadron White Putty? I have a couple tubes that a few years old and it seems the putty has separated a bit. It still works though…just runny.
> 
> Tom


Tooth pick or Q-tip (swab cut off) makes a great stir stick for putty.

Finished the FEF today. Fun project. Learned a few new techniques and really like the new products.


----------



## Dano

Looking good!


----------



## Krieglok

Aaron, I have the putty in the tube. I try to squeeze enough out but it is all a beige color. I recall it was actually white. I have some thin pits on a project I am doing now. I am usin* the old model airplane trick and painting the gaps with white glue. It seems to work well.

Now, on to the good stuff…

Your FEF came out beautifully! How many different colors do you think you used on the weathering? Great work!

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Krieglok said:


> Aaron, I have the putty in the tube. I try to squeeze enough out but it is all a beige color. I recall it was actually white. I have some thin pits on a project I am doing now. I am usin* the old model airplane trick and painting the gaps with white glue. It seems to work well.
> 
> Now, on to the good stuff…
> 
> Your FEF came out beautifully! How many different colors do you think you used on the weathering? Great work!
> 
> Tom


Thanks.

Four oil brushers did most of the work. A dark gray for fading, brown & light tan for dirt, white for mineral stains. Couple washes, made from oil paints. I’m not sure how many others, I put it on & remove if it’s not what I want. Various colors create different shades/hues for realism.

Overall I’m pleased with it.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Started fixing….well, I’ll leave it at that.…negligent packaging….who’d thought…










Fortunately I had an extra number board from PSC, original lost during shipment. Below it’s soldered in place. Running board torn from boiler, soldered back in place. Yes, headlight is loose too, still needs soldered. 










Lubricator knocked off cylinder block, below. Other damage not pictured.










Tender is badly damaged. Will take several hours to fix. 

I’m making best of it, adding details it didn’t have while I’m fixing stuff. PSC parts arrive next week. If work doesn’t get in the way, I hope to be done soldering then.


----------



## Krieglok

Imagine, the wrecked locomotives the railroads would repair, back in the steam days. Engines were nearly destroyed and brought back to life by talented shop forces.

This is an o gauge version of the same situation. I am sure the restoration and finishing will be top notch!

Tom


----------



## lou1985

Another PRR to CNW passenger car done, this time a sleeper. I started on the baggage car, after that I'll do the obs car, then the consist will be done.


----------



## 86TA355SR

The steam pipe articulation point was loose and shipping removed the other one.








Planned to remove, clean, prep, solder. Basically large brass “washers“ retain pipes to steam chest. Somehow during the prep, despite being careful, I knocked a “washer” off the pipe, heard it hit floor, never to be saw again. After literally an hour of searching, I said screw it and made one from .032 brass sheet. 








The steam pipes also prevent the forward engine from free hanging, so it needed to be a strong joint. Left a little extra material on back edge of my replacement, easier to jig. Soldered in place:








Now to fix the lubricator. I spent a lot of time checking alignment prior to solder. Noticed witness marks on lubricator rod, so I wanted to correct this. Here’s my high tech solder jig:








The finished lubricator. Even after correct alignment, I needed to do a little filing, but it operates smoothly now.








The finished cylinder block:








Awaiting PSC parts to fix tender. Probably four or five hours to complete that, then I’ll be able to paint/weather.


----------



## Millstonemike

86TA355SR said:


> ... Somehow during the prep, despite being careful, I knocked a “washer” off the pipe, heard it hit floor, never to be saw again. ...


That darn guy Murphy and his law


----------



## 86TA355SR

As mentioned earlier, the headlight was loose. Removed for prep.










The finished headlight soldered in place.










Completed a LOT of soldering to the boiler. Seems as if I “rebuilt“ the entire engineer’s side —it’s done. Awaiting the safety tread walkway and hinges from PSC for the locomotive cab to tender deck.

Also disassembled the entire chassis for paint prep.


----------



## Krieglok

Nice work Aaron.

Do you have issues soldering brass parts? What solder do you use?

I have a couple pieces that need repair. One is a 3Rd Rail Erie Berkshire that arrived with the mechanical lubricator linkage detached from the valve gear. Not much to work with there. It is a “butted” joint that seems weak to begin with. I was considering drilling a hole for the linkage to fit into then soldering. I did a temporary repair but I don’t think I had the right solder to a hot enough iron..

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Krieglok said:


> Nice work Aaron.
> 
> Do you have issues soldering brass parts? What solder do you use?
> 
> I have a couple pieces that need repair. One is a 3Rd Rail Erie Berkshire that arrived with the mechanical lubricator linkage detached from the valve gear. Not much to work with there. It is a “butted” joint that seems weak to begin with. I was considering drilling a hole for the linkage to fit into then soldering. I did a temporary repair but I don’t think I had the right solder to a hot enough iron..
> 
> Tom


Tom,

Loaded question, I’m far from an expert but will do my best to share what helped.

Solder skill used to give me headaches and limited my ability to build models I wanted. I had to learn it, no choice. After a lot of frustration, I asked expert builders, IMO, absolute craftsman in brass, what I was doing wrong. I finally think I got it figured out, last few projects have been smooth sailing.

My situation was a few issues. One, the flux I used previously, and two, heat.

1. Prep. Started using steel wool on joint surfaces-never did that before. It removes any coating that prevents tarnish (K&S along with most other brands come coated). Surface should be shiny and clean. Wipe surface with alcohol, I use “Goof Off”.

2. Attached a picture of the flux I use now. I bought at Loewe’s, works great. Water soluble-easy to remove residue with dish soap. Nothing ****s up a paint job like flux…..make sure it’s clean prior to paint.










3. Heat. This was my biggest mistake. I didn’t have enough. I wasn’t letting solder flow long enough after melting. This prevented a solid joint. As you know, heat depends on how large a piece your soldering. For the big projects, like boilers, pilots, tender structure, I use a heat gun-that’s right-the souped up hair dryer. Mine has three settings. Flux, put solid solder in joint, heat with heat gun, melts, heat a few more seconds for flow, let cool. A good solid joint will be shiny when cooled.

Torch-use about 95% of the time. I like the control, it’s my go to weapon of choice, it heats castings quickly. I don’t remember last time I used an iron, though I have one and a resistance soldering unit-specialiTy jobs.

if you’re using an iron, clean, tin, and shiny tip. I missed the mark for years, no one explainEd that.

4. Solder. I use 63/37, various diameter. Nothing special, bought last at my local ACE. The little hottie in yoga pants convinced me I needed more than I wanted.

Heat. Remember that. O scale is big, large parts act as a heat sink and heat is absolutely what I did wrong. Just didn’t have enough of it. Allow solder to flow after melting.

Post a picture of linkage, maybe more than one way to fix this.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Finished soldering today.

I made the missing tender step from “safety tread” using the existing one as a pattern.










Then started soldering parts in place on the tender.










Adding a few braces & detail parts, some I made.










The tender steps back in place.

























Finished tender, complete with added step by re-railer. I basically rebuilt a large part of the back end, most details were ripped off during shipment. Fortunately, it was just piping and stuff I had on hand.









While I was using the safety tread, I decided to add a piece. This is hinged & missing from original.

















*Helpful information-*I’m in no way connected to _Brass Trains. _
Their website is FULL of detailEd, clear, zoom capable photos of models. It’s a wonderful resource for the modeler. Many times you can’t find detailEd pictures of a prototype, but the manufacturer has done it for you.


----------



## Norton

Great work Aaron. Good you are posting your progress. Both to show others how its done but also to illustrate what buying brass can entail. This engine is no way unique. You can expect these sorts of issues with almost any brass piece made by any manufacturer no matter their reputation.

Pete


----------



## Lehigh74

I’m kind of amazed at all the damage that occurred in shipment. I thought it was due to negligent packaging, but if that’s the norm for brass locos, I don’t think I’ll ever be tempted to get one, even if the price was right.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Norton said:


> Great work Aaron. Good you are posting your progress. Both to show others how its done but also to illustrate what buying brass can entail. This engine is no way unique. You can expect these sorts of issues with almost any brass piece made by any manufacturer no matter their reputation.
> 
> Pete


Thanks. Most require “tweeking” but this was all seller’s inadequate packaging damage.



Lehigh74 said:


> I’m kind of amazed at all the damage that occurred in shipment. I thought it was due to negligent packaging, but if that’s the norm for brass locos, I don’t think I’ll ever be tempted to get one, even if the price was right.


All the damage to this model was result of negligent/poor packaging by the seller. Doesn’t seem to matter when you ask someone for extra care in packaging models…tissue paper, gotta be *****ing me…it sure created a lot of work for me….I would’ve claimed a lost with him, but wanted to keep this rare model.…all im going to say…

I‘ve received a LOT of beautiful brass models, well packaged (beyond factory box) that were in pristine condition.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I get a lot of brass for upgrades, and after many years, some of the solder joints appear to turn to dust, so I get the chance to attach all sorts of bits back onto them. Quite often, even a brass locomotive that is packed properly still will have some detail damage. Of course, another point, many of the brass models have delicate details that are much more fragile than even the most detailed diecast locomotives.


----------



## Krieglok

Great comments guys.

Aaron, the heat sink issue is what I encountered. Just not enough heat staying in place. Thanks for the tips…but honestly the only thing I can remember is the “hottie in the yoga pants”…lol.

I have owned many brass engines in the past. All HO. Despite the manufacturer, they were usually poor runners and like John mentioned, they just seemed to tarnish and fall apart after a while. I still have a few, but the advent of hybrid, detailed models from China has made brass not worth collecting any longer.

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Krieglok said:


> Great comments guys.
> 
> Aaron, the heat sink issue is what I encountered. Just not enough heat staying in place. Thanks for the tips…but honestly the only thing I can remember is the “hottie in the yoga pants”…lol.
> 
> I have owned many brass engines in the past. All HO. Despite the manufacturer, they were usually poor runners and like John mentioned, they just seemed to tarnish and fall apart after a while. I still have a few, but the advent of hybrid, detailed models from China has made brass not worth collecting any longer.
> 
> Tom


YEAH, it’s still etched in my mind! I had to outlaw those in my house, wasn’t getting anything done besides being tired and dehydrated! Wife wonders why I go to buy solder, 😂 , 😆 

O scale 2 rail brass models for years were poor runners. Guys like Jerry White and others tuned the drives and created beautiful running models to match the appearance. There‘s others who also do fabulous work on the drives, even to this day-wait time can be years for their expertise. Over the years, the manufacturers incorporated those changes into production models and now, most modern era stuff runs great out of the box. 

I had a very high end Key brass locomotive. **** fell off it every time it was handled. Selling it was easier than repair. It happens. Fortunately that was the exception and not the norm. But at that price point, unacceptable.

I‘ve been intrigued by the hybrid models and if a “white whale” becomes available, I may bite. I need an excuse to buy a lathe and machine new drivers.

I like brass because the modeling era I prefer has unique, never made in die cast models. Bonus is being able to solder parts to build variations never offered. Plus, it’s a heck of a lot of fun to take a pile of parts, fix, paint, and admire when done. 

Its a great hobby, we’re fortunate to enjoy it.

AA Ron


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

86TA355SR said:


> I‘ve been intrigued by the hybrid models and if a “white whale” becomes available, I may bite. I need an excuse to buy a lathe and machine new drivers.


The *white whale* showed up for me at Lionel, the Strasburg #90.


----------



## 86TA355SR

gunrunnerjohn said:


> The *white whale* showed up for me at Lionel, the Strasburg #90.


Waited years for them to do an “Early Challenger” but at $2400 each my 3rd Rail version suffices just fine.

I‘m just hopeful a few extra pilots are available for parts…


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

86TA355SR said:


> Waited years for them to do an “Early Challenger” but at $2400 each my 3rd Rail version suffices just fine.


What chapped my butt about the Strasburg #90 is I bought the Nicholas Smith Strasburg 10-wheeler a few months before Lionel announced the #90. I had finally figured that Lionel would never get around to Strasburg and bought the Nicholas Smith locomotive, they could have given us a head's up at least.


----------



## Norton

A number of years ago I restored this 3rd Rail Niagara.









Restoring a 3rd Rail NYC Niagara


Having completed the rebuild of a 3rd Rail Hudson I started working on one of their NYC Niagaras. At first glance I thought this might be a little easier as the most of the running gear was intact but as I got into it I found more and more items either broken or missing. If the Lionel Niagara...




www.modeltrainforum.com





Finally got around to installing Cruise in it as it came with a TAS SAW type board. Rather than the usual gut everything and replace with a Cruise Commander and Railsounds I used a Cruise M and used a diesel motherboard so I could retain the original R2LC and audio boards. Took a bit longer but save a lot of money doing it this way.










Pete


----------



## lou1985

Got a baggage car in CNW paint. Just need to do the observation car and the set is done.


----------



## Krieglok

Sharp paint work, Lou. Nice decal work.

Pete, that is a huge locomotive. Very impressive!

Tom


----------



## RotarySirloin

After picking up some K-Line wagons with Kadee couplers, I wondered if I could replace the scale dummy coupler found on the Acela's with real Kadees. Sure enough, a 740 Kadee fits right in the original spot as the dummy one. The Kadee box needs a slightly larger hole drilled into the box for the screw, and the coupler pipe needs to be cut off, but it fits perfectly. I don't think it's at the correct height as it doesn't match up with my K-Line wagons. Will need to adjust that at some point.

May not be the most useful change, but I think it looks cooler and will try to lash up the two sets and see how they do together. At the very least, I could have another engine tow it away as a dead train!


----------



## lou1985

Got the CNW observation done and completed the set. Baggage, two coaches, diner, sleeper, observation. Now my Premier CNW E4 Hudson has something to pull.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Nice finish, where did you get the drumhead?


----------



## lou1985

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Nice finish, where did you get the drumhead?


It's a drumhead kit from Tomar. I've used a bunch of them and they are really easy to set up.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Finished back of tender this morning. The road number I‘m modeling had a unique arrangement-additional light and ladder “hoop”. The “hoop” required some creativity, the PSC ladder I ordered was too short, so removing original and installing PSC part was out ( like I hoped). Decided to cut loop off PSC part and solder to original. Few file passes later, I’m happy.










I moved step for correct tool box location, soldered both in place. Those little details really add to the model.










Should be done with engineer side tender piping today or tomorrow. Was hoping to paint this week but doubtful, pesky life events, haha!


----------



## Scratch3rail

A fun little diversion, I had a scout tank car that had its markings worn completely off, so I decided to give it a totally free lance Rio Grande paint scheme. Decals are custom made, and my first half decent job.


----------



## Millstonemike

The tanker is half full not half empty  Looks great.


----------



## lou1985

Started on the unpainted Premier ATSF Texas I picked up from Cabin Fever earlier in the year. Tender was unpainted, so I painted/decaled/clear coated it over the past couple of days.


----------



## 86TA355SR

That looks great Lou. Airbrush or rattle can?


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> That looks great Lou. Airbrush or rattle can?


SEM Trim Black in a rattle can with rattle can SEM 1K matte clear over it. The SEM paints spray so well from the cans there's no need for an airbrush or gun, especially since it's just solid black. The finish is perfectly smooth.


----------



## 86TA355SR

lou1985 said:


> SEM Trim Black in a rattle can with rattle can SEM 1K matte clear over it. The SEM paints spray so well from the cans there's no need for an airbrush or gun, especially since it's just solid black. The finish is perfectly smooth.


That’s right, I recall you using SEM in the past now that you reminded me. Tender looks great, look forward to the rest of the model.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Reached a milestone today-ready to paint, prep work is done. It‘s been a long road to get here!


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Well, you sure broke that one!


----------



## Krieglok

Aaron, I bet it took you a while to neaten up your work space, for that pic! My work area looks like a bomb went off! Lol.

Tom


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> View attachment 590184
> 
> 
> Reached a milestone today-ready to paint, prep work is done. It‘s been a long road to get here!


I thought you were working on an early UP Challenger, but those parts don't look like they are from an early Challenger.


----------



## Dano

I finished a re-decal, re-paint today, another B.C. lumber car added to the fleet of Thrall Doors.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Krieglok said:


> Aaron, I bet it took you a while to neaten up your work space, for that pic! My work area looks like a bomb went off! Lol.
> 
> Tom


Haha, most of the morning devoted to clean up! I think every tool I own was on the workbench! Then I started setting up for paint!



lou1985 said:


> I thought you were working on an early UP Challenger, but those parts don't look like they are from an early Challenger.


It’s not an Early Challenger, Lou, though a lot of similarities. A very rare model, only a few examples exist. This will certainly be the only painted/weathered/detailed one. Unfortunately, I doubt I’ll be able to post finished pictures of the model, protecting identity of someone is a priority, due to the unique nature of the situation.


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> It’s not an Early Challenger, Lou, though a lot of similarities. A very rare model, only a few examples exist. This will certainly be the only painted/weathered/detailed one. Unfortunately, I doubt I’ll be able to post finished pictures of the model, protecting identity of someone is a priority, due to the unique nature of the situation.


So it's top secret. I was hoping for a finished picture.


----------



## Krieglok

Catching up on some projects after a week of tests, exams and a physical for the purpose of maintaining my “Engineer’s license”….

I have four commissioned projects at the moment. I hope to get them all done by the weekend…

Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

You just have to build the other twenty or so cars of the American Freedom Train and you're finished!


----------



## 86TA355SR

Welcome back, Tom.

Look forward to the finished product.


----------



## Krieglok

gunrunnerjohn said:


> You just have to build the other twenty or so cars of the American Freedom Train and you're finished!


Luckily, the client only wants the tool car that was used on the AF train, for display purposes. I did a lot of body work on the car, eliminating the vestibule and most of the windows. The three boxcars are for my collection. I am also painting two cabooses for fellow modelers, as well as a top secret project for GRJ.



86TA355SR said:


> Welcome back, Tom.
> 
> Look forward to the finished product.


Hopefully this weekend. I have been watching everyone’s accomplishments during the past couple weeks…very impressive. I need to catch up!

Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Krieglok said:


> ...as well as a top secret project for GRJ.


Is that any way to keep a secret!  😉


----------



## Krieglok

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Is that any way to keep a secret!  😉


A teaser….


----------



## Norton

Started a winter project, three railing a two rail NYC H10 Mikado. I hope to fit it to a Lionel chassis. Waiting on parts now. Below is just a test fit, parts have to be modified in order to lower it on the frame.










Pete


----------



## Krieglok

Norton said:


> Started a winter project, three railing a two rail NYC H10 Mikado. I hope to fit it to a Lionel chassis. Waiting on parts now. Below is just a test fit, parts have to be modified in order to lower it on the frame.
> 
> View attachment 590311
> 
> 
> Pete


I always liked the NYC H10s. I am surprised they were never made in O scale by the big companies. I have one in HO brass I bought many years ago. Just a brute of an engine!

Tom


----------



## Mara Plutoni

Hi guys, anyone pls that can give me (a link to) drawings of a wooden boxcar (any company) from around 1910-1930? I'd like to build it (apart from trucks and couplings) from scratch. a 30 foot -40 foot will do. Lenght, high and width are minimum that i need. Living in Europe its not that easy to find these things. Thanks. Mara from Holland


----------



## Lehigh74

Mara Plutoni said:


> Hi guys, anyone pls that can give me (a link to) drawings of a wooden boxcar (any company) from around 1910-1930? I'd like to build it (apart from trucks and couplings) from scratch. a 30 foot -40 foot will do. Lenght, high and width are minimum that i need. Living in Europe its not that easy to find these things. Thanks. Mara from Holland


I did a search for a 40 & 8 boxcar. This is as close as I got.

Blueprints > Trains > Trains N-Q > New York Central and Hudson River RR 29-feet Boxcar (1876) | Blueprints, Train, New york central (pinterest.com)


----------



## Mara Plutoni

Lehigh74 said:


> I did a search for a 40 & 8 boxcar. This is as close as I got.
> 
> Blueprints > Trains > Trains N-Q > New York Central and Hudson River RR 29-feet Boxcar (1876) | Blueprints, Train, New york central (pinterest.com)


Thanks I'll have a look.


----------



## Norton

Krieglok said:


> I always liked the NYC H10s. I am surprised they were never made in O scale by the big companies. I have one in HO brass I bought many years ago. Just a brute of an engine!
> 
> Tom


Tom, 3rd Rail announced an H10 maybe 7 years ago. I pre ordered but still a no show.

Pete


----------



## lou1985

Got some more work done on the ATSF Texas. I got the missing details parts (except the number boards and whistle, as those are already painted) applied to the boiler. I also added some guides for the bell and whistle cords I'll be adding.









I also painted and decaled the cab.


----------



## SF Gal

spent all day going through my known good DCC locomotives, making sure I clean all the jelled grease out of the gears and fixing any known problems.
One more of the Proto 2000 locomotives had a broken wheel gear (a known issue with these units)... 








Lucky I have replacement gears! Yay!!!
On 2 of my locomotives, the front light failed to illuminate and after troubleshooting with a meter, determined the old decoders output failed, so I replaced the old DH123 with a brand new generic NCE decoder.
I will use the old decoder with "B" units that do not have front lights. The NCE decoder has additional outputs F1 and F2, CV122 and 123!
So I figured I'd use the outputs for ditch lights in front and back! Cool!
I used nano LED's in holes I drilled and glued them to the inside of the shell and routed the wires..... 








Playing with the cv bit values is fun! I got the back to flash and the front to stay constant.


----------



## Krieglok

Nice work! I have a couple Proto2000 GP30s that had the split gear issues. I believe the replacements were Athearn gears. It has been a few years since I worked on them but they are nice locomotives …

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Norton said:


> Started a winter project, three railing a two rail NYC H10 Mikado.….
> 
> Pete


No, no, no, you‘re going the wrong way Pete! Haha!



lou1985 said:


> Got some more work done on the ATSF Texas. I got the missing details parts (except the number boards and whistle, as those are already painted) applied to the boiler. I also added some guides for the bell and whistle cords I'll be adding.…


Lou,
How are you attaching the detail parts to the die cast body? Epoxy?

Thanks, 

Aaron


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> No, no, no, you‘re going the wrong way Pete! Haha!
> 
> 
> 
> Lou,
> How are you attaching the detail parts to the die cast body? Epoxy?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Aaron


Depends. Some is screwed on from inside. The cord guides I drilled holes into the boiler and used JB Weld to make sure the stayed in place.

Shot the boiler. Trim Black is a great product.


----------



## 86TA355SR

That looks fantastic.


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> That looks fantastic.


That's sprayed straight from the SEM rattle can. There's no need to mix it in a gun when the finish is that smooth.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Making big progress.

This is a custom color I blended, 2 parts black to 1 part grime. Mixed a few experiment colors, different ratios of black & grime, chose this one.










The reassembled forward engine:









Nothing like seeing all the detail work/parts in paint.









Tomorrow I hope to paint the smokebox.


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Making big progress.
> 
> This is a custom color I blended, 2 parts black to 1 part grime. Mixed a few experiment colors, different ratios of black & grime, chose this one.
> 
> View attachment 590644
> 
> 
> The reassembled forward engine:
> View attachment 590652
> 
> 
> Nothing like seeing all the detail work/parts in paint.
> View attachment 590653
> 
> 
> Tomorrow I hope to paint the smokebox.


That came out great. Nice smooth finish.


----------



## 86TA355SR

lou1985 said:


> That came out great. Nice smooth finish.


Thanks, Lou. Just trying to emulate your work 😂

The 35 year old airbrush just keeps spraying. Occasionally a new part and back to spray another model.

Increased the air pressure slightly, and due to a thinning mistake (my fault) mix was thinner than usual. It sprayed beautiful, best ever with Scale Coat. Completely surprised. Better lucky than good, I guess. Will adjust my routine it worked so well.

Aaron


----------



## lou1985

Got the ATSF Texas cosmetically completed (tender was done already). It was unpainted (like the tender) and missing some parts. I had to rummage around in my junk bin to fin the sand dome fill covers, engineer/fireman figures, and a couple of pipes under the boiler. While I was at it I also removed the factory stamped metal bell cradle and added the correct cradle with air ringer. I also added a bell bracket that had a pull arm (late ATSF large steam had an air ringer but the bell could still be rung manually by the fireman if the air ringer failed). I wanted to run cords for the whistle and bell so I drilled some holes in the boiler and added stanchions to use as cord guides. I know 5012 is a factory MTH road number but I used it because the illuminated number boards and number board under the headlight already had that number, so I decided to make my life easier and just use road number 5012. It still needs electronics and lights, but I'll get to those over the winter.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Lou,

Great work, looks beautiful. I’m sure when the electronics are in it‘ll run as great as it looks.

Drilling small holes in die cast had to be a challenge. Did you use a pin vise drill or something else? I need to find a better way of drilling small holes, like .015” or smaller, interested in techniques…wondering if there’s a better way…


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Drilling small holes in die cast had to be a challenge. Did you use a pin vise drill or something else? I need to find a better way of drilling small holes, like .015” or smaller, interested in techniques…wondering if there’s a better way…


Here's what I usually do. I mount the project piece to a piece of wood, so I can clamp it to a work bench. Them once I determine where I want the hole to be I set a sharp punch in the spot and hit it will a ball pean hammer to make an indent. I then chuck whatever bit I'm using (Harbor Freight has small metric bits for ~$3-4 for a set), in my drill, put a light drop of tap oil on the indent in the piece, set my drill in the indent, and run it at half speed. Usually cuts through like butter, especially with a sharp bit. If the piece can be squared (hard to do on a round boiler) I'll just use a drill press instead of a hand drill.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I start hole with a pin vise and then after I have a starting hole, I finish them with my little battery powered rotary tool. I picked this up on Amazon for $20, it makes short work if small holes.

*CHOKMAX Cordless Rotary Tool Kit, 3.7V Mini Grinder with 5 Variable Speed*


----------



## Norton

86TA355SR said:


> Lou,
> 
> Great work, looks beautiful. I’m sure when the electronics are in it‘ll run as great as it looks.
> 
> Drilling small holes in die cast had to be a challenge. Did you use a pin vise drill or something else? I need to find a better way of drilling small holes, like .015” or smaller, interested in techniques…wondering if there’s a better way…


I basically do the same thing. Use a carbide scribe to make a dent and start drilling with a pin vise. Then put the pin vise in my cordless drill to speed up the process.

Pete


----------



## Krieglok

Great work guys!

The level of modeling here is unsurpassed! Between the painting, repairing and electronics work being showcased here and the discussion of techniques, the quality of this thread is top notch. Thanks to Lou, John and Aaron. Pete and Bob add a great deal of knowledge, as well as Dano and many others Modelers!

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Thanks for the ideas, all helpful.

This is really the only thread on the internet I participate in regularly. Occasionally, read or reply in another thread but have little interest there. I enjoy the modeling done here, everything from minor changes to complete rebuilds. People are making things. It‘s always interesting what people post and create, using their ability. Plus, lots of member ideas help build better models, for all involved. Stuff I would’ve never thought about can make the proverbial “light bulb” go off and projects easier.


----------



## 86TA355SR

One of those days…


----------



## Krieglok

I have MANY days like that…lol…

Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Well, I replaced all the stanchions on my tender, the previous owner had broken about 90% of them. Of course, Lionel didn't have stock on them... I great guy over on OGR 3D printed these for me, and they actually look better than the stock Lionel parts. My tender has been returned to service and ready to keep my Challenger Grayhound running for long distances!


----------



## Krieglok

Interesting. I found with my collecting PRR diesel locomotive equipped with train phone antennas resulted in my sticking to Lionel engines, as their antenna stanchions were brass. The MTH engines have plastic stanchions that break rather easily, while the Lionel stanchions held up to average handling of the locomotive










Funny, they didn’t use a sturdier material for the stanchions on your tender.

The same fellow from OGR made me some gong style bells for a couple C&NW F units I am working on. Great guy with a lot of talent!










Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Krieglok said:


> Funny, they didn’t use a sturdier material for the stanchions on your tender.


Actually, since the handrails are the TMCC antenna for the coupler & rear light function, it's not funny at all, metal stanchions would not have worked.


----------



## Krieglok

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Actually, since the handrails are the TMCC antenna for the coupler & rear light function, it's not funny at all, metal stanchions would not have worked.


The tender body is metal?

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

Doing some paint projects for other modelers…

A MTH caboose repainted into the Santa Fe black war bonnet scheme. The roof had a crack in it that I couldn’t hide well enough, so I added extra roof walks…











And a K-Line Ore car painted for the DM&IR….










Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Krieglok said:


> The tender body is metal?


Yep, the whole thing is diecast. AFAIK, all of the aux water tenders from Lionel are diecast, I have three or four of them. The two I have from MTH are also diecast. It was actually really well made, the shell breaks down in a couple of pieces for easier maintenance, worked well for when I was replacing all the railings.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Fixed the overspray.

Brush paint all the details is next, then decals.


----------



## Scratch3rail

A little more progress on the K-4 conversion.
I cut off and filled the existing smoke box band and smoke stack and installed a new one further forward. I’m still not happy with the headlight, but that will come. I also cannibalized an mpc 4-4-2 for its trailing truck and heavily modified the cab to accept it.

I’m also building a pilot, but I thing it will be too light as it’s sheet and 3D printed plastic. Any recommendations for a place I could get a 4 wheel pilot with a 1 and 1/8” wheelbase?
Before: 










After:


















reference:


----------



## SF Gal

I am see some talented crafters on this thread...nice work fabricating and painting...so fun!
Take your time and do a good job, keep up the good work. 😎


----------



## Scratch3rail

Idk if I’m a talented crafter, but if the K-4 is interesting to y’all I’m very glad. I love projects like these as well, I learn so much from them and appreciate seeing what others are doing


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

My latest command upgrade project, the K-Line Speeder. The mission was to give it command and sound, that was a tight fit! All lighting is LED. I used the ERR Mini-Commander 2 and RailSounds Commander. I was surprised my 1" speaker was way louder than I expected. My only remaining task is to find some suitable seats for my engineers. Good thing it has command control since there isn't anyone driving!









The nice paint job was done by Krieglok here on the forum. if I had done it, it wouldn't look anything like that!


----------



## Scratch3rail

Ooh! Neat little motorized unit!


----------



## laz57

Nice JOHN.👍👍 Does it go over the switches without shutting down?


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

laz57 said:


> Nice JOHN.👍👍 Does it go over the switches without shutting down?


Well, it goes over all of mine, including the double-slip switches and the curved switches. Actually, I was a bit surprised how reliable it was.


----------



## callmeIshmael2

Dano said:


> I finished a re-decal, re-paint today, another B.C. lumber car added to the fleet of Thrall Doors.
> View attachment 590216
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Norton said:
> 
> 
> 
> Started a winter project, three railing a two rail NYC H10 Mikado. I hope to fit it to a Lionel chassis. Waiting on parts now. Below is just a test fit, parts have to be modified in order to lower it on the frame.
> 
> View attachment 590311
> 
> 
> Pete
> 
> 
> 
> Incredible looker, Pete! Is that a MTH power chassis?
Click to expand...




Dano said:


> I finished a re-decal, re-paint today, another B.C. lumber car added to the fleet of Thrall Doors.
> View attachment 590216


Dano, your work is absolute top-shelf. Seems to me you top-shelf modelers are not great at giving each other kudos for great and quite frankly, meticulous and extremely careful attention to detail in so many of your items. Otherwise you're modeling in a kind of vacuum is what it appears...doesn't take much to support great work...


----------



## callmeIshmael2

lou1985 said:


> Got the ATSF Texas cosmetically completed (tender was done already). It was unpainted (like the tender) and missing some parts. I had to rummage around in my junk bin to fin the sand dome fill covers, engineer/fireman figures, and a couple of pipes under the boiler. While I was at it I also removed the factory stamped metal bell cradle and added the correct cradle with air ringer. I also added a bell bracket that had a pull arm (late ATSF large steam had an air ringer but the bell could still be rung manually by the fireman if the air ringer failed). I wanted to run cords for the whistle and bell so I drilled some holes in the boiler and added stanchions to use as cord guides. I know 5012 is a factory MTH road number but I used it because the illuminated number boards and number board under the headlight already had that number, so I decided to make my life easier and just use road number 5012. It still needs electronics and lights, but I'll get to those over the winter.
> 
> View attachment 590819
> 
> View attachment 590820
> 
> View attachment 590821
> 
> View attachment 590822


Beautiful work! Would love to see it run.


----------



## Bryan Moran

Remind me again how to remove paint from an existing rolling stock piece? 

I purchased a TRAINZ item off ebay for the purpose of playing with it to put decals on it I also purchased off ebay.











To be honest I like this hopper as is without the brown overspray, but I have plenty of hoppers. 

So - I remove the trucks and couplers, and with the shell do I dip into isopropanol alcohol?


----------



## Scratch3rail

Bryan: I’ve had really good luck with citrustrip, it’s not hurt any plastic or metal parts I’ve used it on, and I’ve soaked items for days by mistake without I’ll effects. Others may have other/better recommendations as well.


----------



## Krieglok

Depending on the maker of the car. Isopropyl works well on most MTH cars. When I strip Weaver cars, I use Scalecoat wash away stripper, as the isopropyl doesn’t loosen the paint…

Tom


----------



## IAIS513

Bryan Moran said:


> Remind me again how to remove paint from an existing rolling stock piece?
> 
> I purchased a TRAINZ item off ebay for the purpose of playing with it to put decals on it I also purchased off ebay.
> 
> View attachment 591550
> 
> 
> 
> To be honest I like this hopper as is without the brown overspray, but I have plenty of hoppers.
> 
> So - I remove the trucks and couplers, and with the shell do I dip into isopropanol alcohol?



Bryon

Try and breakdown the car down to as many pieces as possible and I've had the best luck with 91% Isopropyl alcohol. It works really well on MTH and Lionel paint, I stripped a handful of Lionel cabooses this weekend and it took less than 30 minutes. Weaver cars are little more difficult and usually need to sit on the alcohol for a couple of days. The alcohol won't damage the ABS plastics that most cars are made from and you can leave them in the alcohol for a long time. I just pulled a Weaver hopper out of the stripper tub after 4 weeks with no issues. (Forgot all about it)

Good luck.

James


----------



## Bryan Moran

Thanks James. I have several of those Menards/Home Depot type 5 gallon buckets. I think I will use one of those. 

Now - this goes for all - suppose I do a couple of items and they get stripped and the stripper (Iso or specialized product) is now cloudy and obviously has the paint dissolved in it, do I save the alcohol for the next one? Do I pour down the drain? Do I what with it? 

Before one gets bent out of shape on pouring it down the drain, which would not necessarily be my 1st choice - I supplement my mouth wash with 91% Iso alcohol and clean with it on some surfaces. We also wash latex paint off brushes into the side yard when house painting, etc.


----------



## Krieglok

Save the isopropyl.

Use a funnel and a strainer to remove the large particles and pour it back into the storage container. Make sure it is air tight as the alcohol will evaporate over time and leave you with a weakened solution…

You can do the same with other liquid strippers. It may look cloudy, but you can get a lot of mileage out of the stuff before it becomes ineffective…

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Been painting pipes and small details in tight areas. Consumes a lot of time. 










The firebox silver was difficult to mask, especially under the running boards above the FWH.










Decals are next. Gloss coat is dry. Progress is happening. Hope to be weathering by end of week. Got a plan in my head ! What can possibly happen… 😆 haha!


----------



## Lehigh74

Interesting that you have the cab off. A shot of the backhead might be even more interesting.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Not quite finished with the backhead. 

I‘m done with the inside cab wall paint/weathering. After decals are on I‘ll post pics.


----------



## Scratch3rail

86TA355SR said:


> Been painting pipes and small details in tight areas. Consumes a lot of time.
> 
> View attachment 591601
> 
> 
> The firebox silver was difficult to mask, especially under the running boards above the FWH.
> 
> View attachment 591602
> 
> 
> Decals are next. Gloss coat is dry. Progress is happening. Hope to be weathering by end of week. Got a plan in my head ! What can possibly happen… 😆 haha!


Ooh, that looks amazing!!!


----------



## Scratch3rail

I got a bit more work done here:
Pilot details, 3D printed bell, walkways, also filled the cab depressions left by the old angled cab and put in a new cab floor to replace what I had to remove for the new trailing truck.
I pulled the headlight for the 3rd to make a better bracket. I’m finally happy with the new one, but no photos yet.


----------



## Lehigh74

Before anyone asks, the answer is YES. I AM vying for the honor of the most basic repair on this thread.

I got a Weaver tanker at York with a broken handrail. I fixed it today with a paper clip and super glue. The paper clip is a bit shinier than the plastic handrail, but I don’t care. It is a quick, “permanent” repair. Permanent as long as no one touches it or looks at it the wrong way.


----------



## Krieglok

Nice work, Bob.

If you were so inclined, you could give the rail a coat of dull clear coat, using a small paint brush. It does look fine the way it is though.

I have been making test stirrups for Atlas tankers and Weaver boxcars. I am using 18 gauge square brass rod and bending it with some jewelry making tools.

I am getting better at making them, but I am far from satisfied.

I was fabricating stirrups from styrene stock, but the results are a “still” fragile stirrup that probably will not hold up well. Pre made stirrups from Grandt Line work well, but they are scale and very skinny. They are only good if I am replacing all the stirrups on a car. The brass stock gives me a little larger look that matches the thicker stock stirrups…

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Scratch3rail said:


> I got a bit more work done here…..





Lehigh74 said:


> … I AM vying for the honor of the most basic repair on this thread….
> …. Permanent as long as no one touches it or looks at it the wrong way.


Scratch,

Nice work, can’t wait to see more of the detail work as you progress. Love the use of different materials in your work.

Bob,

Enjoyed your pictures and watching a “fix” take place as the Atlas car is good as new. Your second statement about permanent is a true one for many modelers!

To both of you, it’s Always great to see modeling, no matter the genre. Welcome. Please keep posting.

Aaron


----------



## Krieglok

Finished a few new box cars this week. I had a forth self destruct after I clear coated it with the wrong clear coat. Doing it over!

Here is a MTH Premier car that started as a York car. Stripped, repainted and decaled. Scalecoat paint and K4 decals…












Next is an Atlas gondola, converted from 2 rail to three rail. I painted this one with a combination of Tamiya Dull Red and Brown. I used a combination of Tichy decals and K4 decals (from their WAG boxcar set). The K4 numbers and lettering seems to fit the sections between the side ribs a bit better than the larger Tichy decals...












Finally, A Weaver NASCAR commemorative car. It had three broken stirrups, so I replaced them with GrandtLine o scale stirrups. They are a bit skinny, but they look okay. I stripped, repainted the car and decaled it. I used Tamiya Dull Red paint and K4 decals..










Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Beautiful as always, Tom. 

I think the stirrups look great, the thin steps really add to the scale appearance of the car.

They all belong to you or commission work?


----------



## Krieglok

86TA355SR said:


> Beautiful as always, Tom.
> 
> I think the stirrups look great, the thin steps really add to the scale appearance of the car.
> 
> They all belong to you or commission work?


Thanks Aaron!

They are mine, mine, all mine! Heh heh heh…lol

The stirrups do kind of grow on me. They are flexible plastic, so they dont snap off too easily. I have some other cars that will get the treatment.

Actually, I just sent off my third Santa Fe Black Bonnet caboose I painted. I sold it on EBay. It went in one day. Other than that, my commissions have dried up for the time being, so I have time to start stripping and painting some of the two dozen cars I have on hand.

Tom


----------



## Dano

Scratch3rail said:


> View attachment 591706
> 
> 
> I got a bit more work done here:
> Pilot details, 3D printed bell, walkways, also filled the cab depressions left by the old angled cab and put in a new cab floor to replace what I had to remove for the new trailing truck.
> I pulled the headlight for the 3rd to make a better bracket. I’m finally happy with the new one, but no photos yet.


Coming along nicely!


----------



## 86TA355SR

Krieglok said:


> Thanks Aaron!
> 
> They are mine, mine, all mine! Heh heh heh…lol
> 
> The stirrups do kind of grow on me. They are flexible plastic, so they dont snap off too easily. I have some other cars that will get the treatment.
> 
> Actually, I just sent off my third Santa Fe Black Bonnet caboose I painted. I sold it on EBay. It went in one day. Other than that, my commissions have dried up for the time being, so I have time to start stripping and painting some of the two dozen cars I have on hand.
> 
> Tom


The stir up steps are a necessary evil-beautiful detail but always seems to catch / snap one off during handling or worse, I wait until final overcoat and do it, haha!

Congratulations on the SF Bonnet caboose selling quickly. Enjoy the time of working on your stuff and look forward to the next post.


----------



## Krieglok

Thank again, Aaron!

I had this in the shop. A MTH Railking wrecker. I repainted to an Erie Crane. I am building the boom car next…





















Tom


----------



## laz57

Looks great TOM!!! It will have some work days on your pike.


----------



## lou1985

I don't believe I posted this but here is my finished Chicago & Northwestern passenger train. I bought the locomotive (CNW E4 Hudson) from the Cabin Fever auction held on NYE this past year. It was complete, and mint, minus the pilot truck and boards, which I installed. Got it running (PS3) and then repainted 6 K-Line heavyweight cars from PRR to CNW to go with it. Came out pretty nice.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Uh-oh! I spy a weathered box car behind Tom’s crane….that’s how it starts…

Lou, NICE, a complete train made by yourself. Appreciate the effort involved having built one myself. Really enjoyed the video.


----------



## Millstonemike

lou1985 said:


> I don't believe I posted this but here is my finished Chicago & Northwestern passenger train....


Sharp. Very nice work.


----------



## Krieglok

86TA355SR said:


> Uh-oh! I spy a weathered box car behind Tom’s crane….that’s how it starts…


I thought I showed the two cars I “fixed up”. They are MTH cars, both factory painted. I replaced the Erie diamond on the Erie car to a more realistic logo. The PRR car received a new number in the correct font…then both were weathered…using a dry brush method.




















Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I recognize that paint job!  Mine aren't weathered...


----------



## Krieglok

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I recognize that paint job!  Mine aren't weathered...
> 
> View attachment 591978


This is the stock MTH paint job. The same lettering as your cars, but the slogan is in yellow. They had the wrong font on the numbers, so I painted over the old ones and applied the correct ones on to the car. I didn’t quite get the paint to match, so I weathered the car to hide the paint patch…

I have another I can renumber if you want it for the oddball 20th car in your set!

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Krieglok said:


> I thought I showed the two cars I “fixed up”….
> 
> Tom


I’m sure you did, I‘ve slept a few times since then. Hard to remember what I did yesterday, anymore.

Aaron


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Krieglok said:


> This is the stock MTH paint job. The same lettering as your cars, but the slogan is in yellow. They had the wrong font on the numbers, so I painted over the old ones and escaped the correct ones on to the car. I didn’t quite get the paint to match, so I weathered the car to hide the paint patch…
> 
> I have another I can renumber if you want it for the oddball 20th car in your set!
> 
> Tom


I'm still looking for more of those cheap club cars to expand the fleet.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Still having fun, but jeeesh, it’s been a challenge from opening the box though.

When I soldered the headlight on earlier I meant to check for brass “flashing“ so guess what happened when ready to mount number plates? Lenses wouldn‘t mount flush. Carefully filed smooth, did both sides.









All Decals are finished. Not sure how I glossed everywhere _except_ where a decal goes but I managed. Not only once, but twice!

The great news is I’m ready to weather and reassemble this beast.


----------



## superwarp1

It's not my bench but one of them is my engine. Can you guess what's going on here??? I'll give you a hint. It's a Lionel class A from the early 2000's


----------



## 86TA355SR

superwarp1 said:


> It's not my bench but one of them is my engine. Can you guess what's going on here??? I'll give you a hint. It's a Lionel class A from the early 2000's…


Looks like Brut is busy with another Legacy job.


----------



## superwarp1

86TA355SR said:


> Looks like Brut is busy with another Legacy job.


Busy with lots of Legacy jobs.


----------



## Krieglok

86TA355SR said:


> Still having fun, but jeeesh, it’s been a challenge from opening the box though.
> 
> When I soldered the headlight on earlier I meant to check for brass “flashing“ so guess what happened when ready to mount number plates? Lenses wouldn‘t mount flush. Carefully filed smooth, did both sides.
> View attachment 591998
> 
> 
> 
> All Decals are finished. Not sure how I glossed everywhere _except_ where a decal goes but I managed. Not only once, but twice!
> 
> The great news is I’m ready to weather and reassemble this beast.


Aaron,

Not an awful amount of room there to be wielding a file around the bell and headlight! Nice work. Curious to see it all put together. A image of it assembled, but not weathered and a pic of the engine weathered would be interesting to see…

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Tom,

You’re correct, it was tight working the file. A lot of time.

Often thought it’d be cool to have a “factory fresh” paint vs weathered pictures. I may do that some day. Perhaps a non-articulated in the future.

Usually I weather in ”subassemblies,” then reassemble, and finally blend together if needed. It‘s easier to detail without handling the whole model, plus paint is easier to manipulate into tight areas/cracks.

For a “factory fresh” photo, an extra reassembly would be required.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Mounted the PSC “American“ builder plates. Love the finished look!


















I couldn’t resist sitting the cab on for a quick sneek peak! All the challenges suddenly were forgotten when I saw _this_:










The satin clear coat is dry, I should be able to start weathering this afternoon


----------



## Krieglok

86TA355SR said:


> Mounted the PSC “American“ builder plates. Love the finished look!
> 
> View attachment 592077
> 
> View attachment 592078
> 
> 
> I couldn’t resist sitting the cab on for a quick sneek peak! All the challenges suddenly were forgotten when I saw _this_:
> 
> View attachment 592079
> 
> 
> The satin clear coat is dry, I should be able to start weathering this afternoon


I thought of the assembly process, coupled with weathering, shortly after I posted. I know it is a lot of effort to assemble the engine once, let alone twice!

The Alco plates look great.

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

A couple new paint projects completed.

Both MTH Premier boxcars, stripped and repainted with Scalecoat paint. The decal sets are from K4.




















Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Those look awesome, Tom. Decals are perfect, as always.

Really like the ”Buffalo Creek“ one, pardon my naive lack of knowledge, is that a branch line?


----------



## Krieglok

86TA355SR said:


> Those look awesome, Tom. Decals are perfect, as always.
> 
> Really like the ”Buffalo Creek“ one, pardon my naive lack of knowledge, is that a branch line?


Thank you Aaron!

The Buffalo Creek was a terminal railroad in Buffalo, NY. It connected all the big railroads together around the city. They also served the once many grain elevators and related businesses around the Buffalo water front. The railroad was jointly owned by the Erie and the Lehigh Valley railroads. It was included in the Northeast Rail Consolidation Act (Conrail) in 1976... just a quick history!

Tom


----------



## Norton

86TA355SR said:


> Mounted the PSC “American“ builder plates. Love the finished look!
> 
> View attachment 592077
> 
> View attachment 592078
> 
> 
> I couldn’t resist sitting the cab on for a quick sneek peak! All the challenges suddenly were forgotten when I saw _this_:
> 
> View attachment 592079
> 
> 
> The satin clear coat is dry, I should be able to start weathering this afternoon


Aaron, great job as usual. How long have you had those builders plates. The last ones I ordered about year ago were oversize and printed, not etched. Pretty disappointing.

Pete


----------



## Norton

Krieglok said:


> The Buffalo Creek was a terminal railroad in Buffalo, NY. It connected all the big railroads together around the city. They also served the once many grain elevators and related businesses around the Buffalo water front. The railroad was jointly owned by the Erie and the Lehigh Valley railroads. It was included in the Northeast Rail Consolidation Act (Conrail) in 1976... just a quick history!
> 
> Tom


Another fine job Tom. Now you only need a few hundred more of those Buffalo Creeks. I am sure you remember the yards full of them as you drove over the Skyway.

Pete


----------



## 86TA355SR

Krieglok said:


> The Buffalo Creek ... just a quick history!
> 
> Tom


Love it, always enjoy the history you post with the models. Thanks.



Norton said:


> ….How long have you had those builders plates….
> 
> Pete


Bought those recently, about September, directly from PSC. Pleasantly surprised, first time I needed them. I thought they'd be plain, brass sheet I‘d paint but as you can see, very nice.

Really add to smokebox.


----------



## Norton

86TA355SR said:


> Love it, always enjoy the history you post with the models. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> Bought those recently, about September, directly from PSC. Pleasantly surprised, first time I needed them. I thought they'd be plain, brass sheet I‘d paint but as you can see, very nice.
> 
> Really add to smokebox.


I had ordered them in the past from the previous owner and they were small and etched like yours. Good they got the corrected.

Pete


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Mounted the PSC “American“ builder plates. Love the finished look!
> 
> View attachment 592077
> 
> View attachment 592078
> 
> 
> I couldn’t resist sitting the cab on for a quick sneek peak! All the challenges suddenly were forgotten when I saw _this_:
> 
> View attachment 592079
> 
> 
> The satin clear coat is dry, I should be able to start weathering this afternoon


That thing is sweet. All that PITA masking really paid off.


----------



## lou1985

A few years ago Lionel produced a brass hybrid ATSF 3160 class Mikado. The biggest visual issue is that Lionel used the standard USRA alligator cross head instead of the correct laird cross head. In addition it used the tiny RS385 motor found in their USRA Mikados. I was able to acquire this at a stupid cheap price.

















It's a Westside Models 2 rail brass ATSF 3160 class Mikado. What's a 3 rail guy gonna do with a 2 rail model? 3 rail it. My friend Pat has already 3 railed a KTM NYC H10 Mikado using a MTH USRA Mikado chassis, which uses a nice fat 9000 series Pittman. I'm sending the Mikado off to him along with a MTH USRA Mikado chassis to slot under it. The alligator cross head on the MTH chassis will be replaced with a laird cross head, so it'll be far more accurate than Lionel's model, and have a strong, bullet proof drive train. The MTH USRA Mikado chassis is so close it's almost drop in.
















Once I get it back I'll install DCS and get it running. In the spring I'll strip and repaint it, as the finish is no where near my standards. I use SEM automotive paint on steam locomotives and it smells awful, and a paint booth won't remove the fumes. That's why I'll have to wait for warmer weather to re-finish it so I can spray outside in the garage.


----------



## Scratch3rail

One semi scale 110p75a tender coming right up.


----------



## Krieglok

Norton said:


> Another fine job Tom. Now you only need a few hundred more of those Buffalo Creeks. I am sure you remember the yards full of them as you drove over the Skyway.
> 
> Pete


Yes, Pete!

Ohio Street Yard was full of them! I used to drive by there everyday, when I was in college. The Ohio Street roundhouse was right there too. I stopped by and visited on time. One of the employees gave me a Buffalo Creek switch lock! I am sure all that facility is long gone now…😞

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

lou1985 said:


> …..It's a Westside Models 2 rail brass ATSF 3160 class Mikado. …
> 
> 
> …. and it smells awful, and a paint booth won't remove the fumes. That's why I'll have to wait for warmer weather to re-finish it so I can spray outside in the garage.


Lou,
Does it have 57” drivers? IF so, I would be interested in purchasing the frame/driver assembly.

Like you, I’m trying to get paint done prior to cold weather, same reason. Even a respirator, paint booth, adequate ventilation is not enough for the SC paint fumes. Winter is building time, spring is paint season, haha.



Scratch3rail said:


> View attachment 592141
> 
> One semi scale 110p75a tender coming right up.


Very nice! Styrene? Which glue did you use?


----------



## Millstonemike

86TA355SR said:


> ... Like you, I’m trying to get paint done prior to cold weather, same reason. Even a respirator, paint booth, adequate ventilation is not enough for the SC paint fumes. Winter is building time, spring is paint season, haha. ...


Six tinplate passenger cars, loco and tender. Missed my warm weather painting window this year


----------



## Scratch3rail

86TA355SR said:


> Lou,
> Does it have 57” drivers? IF so, I would be interested in purchasing the frame/driver assembly.
> 
> Like you, I’m trying to get paint done prior to cold weather, same reason. Even a respirator, paint booth, adequate ventilation is not enough for the SC paint fumes. Winter is building time, spring is paint season, haha.
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice! Styrene? Which glue did you use?


Thanks! Yes, I got an evergreen odds and ends bag, which has given more than enough for this and other projects. I used Testors bottled plastic cement. It’s a little syrupy, but works quite well.










Now I’m trying to work out how to do the front end 🤔


----------



## 86TA355SR

Well, that’s darn cool and neat. Never saw anyone make one in 3R (no disrespect to any of you) so it’s exciting to see thinking out of the box become a reality. I’m impressed, FWIW.

Testor’s glue strong enough to hold it together with a train attached?

Again, very cool.


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Lou,
> Does it have 57” drivers? IF so, I would be interested in purchasing the frame/driver assembly.
> 
> Like you, I’m trying to get paint done prior to cold weather, same reason. Even a respirator, paint booth, adequate ventilation is not enough for the SC paint fumes. Winter is building time, spring is paint season, haha.


It's got 63" drivers. I've actually already got someone interested in the chassis, but I'll let you know if that falls through.

I totally agree on painting in the spring/summer. The SEM stuff smells worst than SC paint. It's fine if you're spraying it in a down draft automotive paint booth but that's about the only way it can be sprayed indoors. Even a well-ventilated hobby level spray booth isn't enough. I have to use the SEM paint outside in the garage with the overhead door open.


----------



## Norton

86TA355SR said:


> Lou,
> Does it have 57” drivers? IF so, I would be interested in purchasing the frame/driver assembly.
> 
> Like you, I’m trying to get paint done prior to cold weather, same reason. Even a respirator, paint booth, adequate ventilation is not enough for the SC paint fumes. Winter is building time, spring is paint season, haha.
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice! Styrene? Which glue did you use?


Aaron, I also have a 2 rail Mikado chassis with 63” drivers I will be parting with a few months off my KMT H10 If Lou sells his. Complete with motor if you can use it.

Pete


----------



## Krieglok

Scratch3rail said:


> Thanks! Yes, I got an evergreen odds and ends bag, which has given more than enough for this and other projects. I used Testors bottled plastic cement. It’s a little syrupy, but works quite well.
> 
> View attachment 592169
> 
> 
> Now I’m trying to work out how to do the front end 🤔


looks great! The Testors is great for styrene. Testors glue, while takes time to set and harden, has more tensile strength that any ACC glue would have. ACC dries quickly, but can be fragile…

I spy a bunch of little F-9 Panthers parked in the back. Doing a aircraft carrier on the side?

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Pete / Lou,

I think I’m good on 63” just looking for 57”. Only 63” one I need is Bokpox. Thanks though.

Tom,

Last time I used Testors glue was decades ago. You read my mind, tensile strength, especially for Scratch’s tender. Those ACCs are brittle. 

I started using “Goop” for certain situations, it remains somewhat flexible but the bond is really impressive. The builder plates for example. I wouldn’t use the one I have for model building though (Goop may make other consistency/thickness).


----------



## Millstonemike

Krieglok said:


> looks great! The Testors is great for styrene. Testors glue, while takes time to set and harden, has more tensile strength that any ACC glue would have. ACC dries quickly, but can be fragile…
> 
> I spy a bunch of little F-9 Panthers parked in the back. Doing a aircraft carrier on the side?
> 
> Tom


I was under the impression that Testors on styrene was like fitting PVC pipe with it's corresponding cement. It's not a glue but a solvent. It melts the styrene to let parts "weld" together. Have I been wrong all these years?


----------



## Scratch3rail

Krieglok said:


> looks great! The Testors is great for styrene. Testors glue, while takes time to set and harden, has more tensile strength that any ACC glue would have. ACC dries quickly, but can be fragile…
> 
> I spy a bunch of little F-9 Panthers parked in the back. Doing a aircraft carrier on the side?
> 
> Tom


Agreed on the testor’s glue. It is a solvent, with nothing other than a thickening agent as far as I can tell. I’ve gradually learned patience in this hobby, it’s been a slow process. Good eyes! Those are my wife’s, she’s working on USS Ticonderoga next to me 




















I got a few more parts in place and set it on some spare trucks until I 3D print the right ones.


----------



## Norton

Millstonemike said:


> I was under the impression that Testors on styrene was like fitting PVC pipe with it's corresponding cement. It's not a glue but a solvent. It melts the styrene to let parts "weld" together. Have I been wrong all these years?


Solvent glue is best for styrene and ABS. I was big fan of Tenax, now NLA. Micro Mark sells something called “Same Stuff” which is pure methylene chloride. I think Tenax had a second ingredient which made it act even faster but its OK. 
For me CA glue is a last resort. I only use it on dissimilar materials like plastic and wood or plastic and metal.

Great modeling Scratch!

Pete


----------



## 86TA355SR

For the last three days, I’ve been thinking about how to fix a mess I made. Not giving any details, need an unbiased membership look when I’m done. In other words, curious if anyone notices it..

With that issue “behind“ me, I changed my normal routine and started on the chassis. Usually I weather the boiler/tender first but on the FEF, I decided that wasn’t the best plan for future projects. Today was prep - cleaned wheels, oil paint shading, blasted/clear coat all the rods & prepare to reassemble this beast.

Decided to do a light weathering job, which is accurate to prototype. Must admit, temptation was to reassemble as a factory fresh model

Managed a few minutes of painting-whistle and backhead.


----------



## Scratch3rail

While waiting for something at work, I quickly snuck over to the 3D printer and printed these off: 










Simple, but they give the desired effect.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Those are AWESOME.


----------



## Norton

Scratch3rail said:


> While waiting for something at work, I quickly snuck over to the 3D printer and printed these off:
> 
> 
> View attachment 592240
> 
> Simple, but they give the desired effect.
> 
> View attachment 592241


Simple for a CAD master. What are you using to create these designs?

Pete


----------



## Scratch3rail

Thanks guys! I’m definitely not a cad master, I was thinking how little I know about how to use these tools as I drew them last night. I use a hobbyist account for Fusion360. It’s free for a year, then you just have to sign up for the free account again.

Update: I was able to temporarily assemble one of the trucks, and couldn’t resist setting the tender on it for a look.










There’s too much space between the truck and body in the shot, but I think I can lower that.


----------



## Krieglok

Aaron, sorry I put the bug in your ear about the preweathered vs weathered pics…lol

Nice work, Scratch! it’s amazing what you can create with the 3D printers.

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

I stripped and repainted a MTH 19th century boxcar. It was an MTH special car and now it is a Lehigh Valley. I also installed a taller brake stem and a more period brake wheel. Painted with Scalecoat II Boxcar red and decaled with a K4 decal set…



















I detailed a MTH stock 34’ reefer with a taller brake stem and a period wheel. I also painted the lower brake stem to give a bit more depth to the end of the car…











the pair…











Tom


----------



## Scratch3rail

Those look sweet! Do you have a ten-wheeler to pull them somewhere?


----------



## Krieglok

Scratch3rail said:


> Those look sweet! Do you have a ten-wheeler to pull them somewhere?


Not quite yet. I do have a MTH Erie 0-8-8-0 and a Triplex that would have pulled cars like these early in the engine’s lives. I still want a 10 wheeler though…

Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I'll trad you a 10-wheeler for that Erie 0-8-8-0.


----------



## Lehigh74

Sounds like a lopsided deal John. Maybe you should throw in a 0-6-0 to even the wheel count...


----------



## 86TA355SR

Gotta be $***ting me. Course I’d drop after paint….










Stripping paint and resolder tomorrow. Unbelievable.


----------



## Krieglok

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I'll trad you a 10-wheeler for that Erie 0-8-8-0.


Bob has it right! The Angus is the first O scale engine I ever bought. I am actually considering a MTH 2-8-0 H3 I think it is…

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

86TA355SR said:


> Gotta be $***ting me. Course I’d drop after paint….
> 
> View attachment 592462
> 
> 
> Stripping paint and resolder tomorrow. Unbelievable.


Ouch. You have my deepest sympathies. At least it is repairable…

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

I am building a boom car for my Erie crane. It started as an Atlas Industrial Rail flat car. I beefed it up and added some rigging bins. The square bin is a blocking bin. The truck will be chained down. I need to add a spreader bar and a multitude of other wreck related details...

Tom


----------



## Scratch3rail

Some additional tender details done:


----------



## 86TA355SR

Cool stuff, Tom’s crane will be unique and looks as if Scratch has been busy detailing a masterpiece.

I soldered lubricator, again, this time I made sure it was a good joint. Very careful heating with torch prevented further paint damage.

Been a challenge with this one, second set back in a day but at least both can be fixed.


----------



## Norton

86TA355SR said:


> Cool stuff, Tom’s crane will be unique and looks as if Scratch has been busy detailing a masterpiece.
> 
> I soldered lubricator, again, this time I made sure it was a good joint. Very careful heating with torch prevented further paint damage.
> 
> Been a challenge with this one, second set back in a day but at least both can be fixed.
> 
> View attachment 592492


I am surprised you don’t have a resistance soldering unit. That would have made short work of that with no paint damage.
I need to find a brass lubricator. I discovered what I thought was a diecast one from Lionel is made of lead or a similar material that is soft but can be soldered.










Pete


----------



## 86TA355SR

Pete,

I do, and that was initial plan, but the part had to be perfectly aligned. After jig set up anyhow, I just used torch. the RSU may have moved it & then more problems later.


----------



## Scratch3rail

Very nice repair!


----------



## 86TA355SR

After fixing/painting the lubricator, I put the chassis back together & installed the motor. The rods are only blasted, then satin clear, await weathering, will try a few new techniques.










I’ve spent a lot of time researching prototype pictures (very few exist, no color). The prototype was only in service a few years, pictures indicate generally clean locomotives, which this one will represent. Below is the first weathering pass, light blending of the decals. 










Tomorrow is reassemble forward engine/tender trucks, hopefully some weathering to chassis.


----------



## Scratch3rail

Got it up on trucks tonight after dinner:


----------



## 86TA355SR

The rod assembly is by far the most complicated I’ve had apart/assembled. Add to that fastners are unique, & with no extra parts, I took great care. Each side took about 45 minutes to finish. Most of morning to complete.










Yesterday I experimented with a few different oil colors for the look I wanted on the tender sides. It‘s done, start water tank tomorrow.


----------



## Scratch3rail

A few last parts to install, cow catcher and tender steps. I also have marker lights and a step followed by a little sanding on the cab, then paint!


----------



## Scratch3rail

86TA355SR said:


> The rod assembly is by far the most complicated I’ve had apart/assembled. Add to that fastners are unique, & with no extra parts, I took great care. Each side took about 45 minutes to finish. Most of morning to complete.
> 
> View attachment 592569
> 
> 
> Yesterday I experimented with a few different oil colors for the look I wanted on the tender sides. It‘s done, start water tank tomorrow.
> 
> View attachment 592568


Is this a 2-8-8-0 Bull Moose? If so those are really cool!!!


----------



## 86TA355SR

Scratch3rail said:


> Is this a 2-8-8-0 Bull Moose? If so those are really cool!!!


No sir, but I have one & it‘s O scale perfection. Amazing model and my favorite piece.

Currently in cue for weathering.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Scratch3rail said:


> A few last parts to install, cow catcher and tender steps. I also have marker lights and a step followed by a little sanding on the cab, then paint!


Those 3D printed also?


----------



## Millstonemike

86TA355SR said:


> No sir, but I have one & it‘s O scale perfection. Amazing model and my favorite piece.


I'l say. Pedigree? Mfg., year, yada yada


----------



## Scratch3rail

86TA355SR said:


> Those 3D printed also?


Yes they are! Here they are installed:


----------



## Krieglok

Everything looking great! Nice to see the progress on the locomotives.

I have been tinkering with my Erie crane and boom car. The boom car is not finished yet. A couple defects to correct as well as some extra details for the car and crane itself. 

















Tom


----------



## Scratch3rail

Ooh, awesome job on the boom car, looks professional!!


----------



## Scratch3rail

Closer! Lots of detail work, lanterns, tweaks to the cow catcher, finally installed the headlight, a coat of flat paint to show where I still need sanding… (everywhere lol), and details to the tender steps.


----------



## Norton

Legacy hybrid New York Central H10 Mikado just about ready for paint.










Pete


----------



## Krieglok

Pete, the detail on the H10 looks super. Are you going to disassemble it for painting? I guess you have to! Nice lines with brutish brow. Anything with Elesco FWHs are always a favorite.

Scratch, your engine looks great. All the hand made parts will make it a very special engine. Very
impressive work composing this engine basically from scratch.

Tom


----------



## Norton

Tom, everything gets stripped out again before painting. Still a few details left to add.

Pete


----------



## 86TA355SR

Looks great Pete, you all done with the mechanism conversion to 3R? You mentioned Legacy, did you do an upgrade? 

Latest pictures of my project:










Reference pictures showed a “molt” look to the steam pipes. 
















Aaron


----------



## Norton

Aaron, I used a Lionel Legacy Mikado as the chassis donor. Its one I had gotten years ago long before prices spiked. Cost was only slightly more that what the boards cost today. The KMT shell fit was near perfect. While it still required a lot of time to finish, it was much easier than converting the K5 Pacific two rail chassis to 3 rail.

Pete


----------



## laz57

WOW PETE OUTSTANDING!!! I really like all that piping on that engine. Especially the fed water system. Hope you make a video.


----------



## Scratch3rail

Krieglok said:


> Pete, the detail on the H10 looks super. Are you going to disassemble it for painting? I guess you have to! Nice lines with brutish brow. Anything with Elesco FWHs are always a favorite.
> 
> Scratch, your engine looks great. All the hand made parts will make it a very special engine. Very
> impressive work composing this engine basically from scratch.
> 
> Tom


I’m honored. It was way easier than scratchbuilding, but a steppingstone to get there. (I’m hunting for a lionel motor to make a CNJ or similar 4-6-2 next)


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Looks great Pete, you all done with the mechanism conversion to 3R? You mentioned Legacy, did you do an upgrade?
> 
> Latest pictures of my project:
> 
> View attachment 592947
> 
> 
> Reference pictures showed a “molt” look to the steam pipes.
> View attachment 592949
> View attachment 592950
> 
> 
> Aaron


That weathering came out great. Not too much, but just enough.

I can't weather well at all, which is why everything I put together looks factory fresh.


----------



## Norton

laz57 said:


> WOW PETE OUTSTANDING!!! I really like all that piping on that engine. Especially the fed water system. Hope you make a video.


Laz, I posted one here.



https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/topic/nyc-shops-builds-a-second-h10b-mikado?reply=168107102050934545#168107102050934545



No youtube account so I can’t post one on this place yet.

Pete


----------



## 86TA355SR

Norton said:


> Aaron, I used a Lionel Legacy Mikado as the chassis donor. Its one I had gotten years ago long before prices spiked. Cost was only slightly more that what the boards cost today. The KMT shell fit was near perfect. While it still required a lot of time to finish, it was much easier than converting the K5 Pacific two rail chassis to 3 rail.
> 
> Pete


Create your own brass hybrid, well done, sir. It‘s going to look beautiful in paint with all the piping. 



lou1985 said:


> That weathering came out great. Not too much, but just enough.
> 
> I can't weather well at all, which is why everything I put together looks factory fresh.


And they’re beautifully painted and done. Your stuff looks like MTH or Lionel delivered everytime. Fantastic models.

I’m far from an expert and think the light weathering jobs are the most difficult. Knowing when to stop is the challenge, as you know. Many models I see are way overdone, IMO. Oil paints and oil brushers give tremendous leeway, the working time is long-easily removed if needed. 

Lots of different techniques add to the effect here-washes, “fading” and dry brush.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Scratch3rail said:


> I’m honored. It was way easier than scratchbuilding, but a steppingstone to get there. (I’m hunting for a lionel motor to make a CNJ or similar 4-6-2 next)


Scratch,

Can you fit a Pittman 8000 series motor in there? 

Aaron


----------



## laz57

Pete
[/QUOTE]


Norton said:


> Laz, I posted one here.
> 
> 
> 
> https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/topic/nyc-shops-builds-a-second-h10b-mikado?reply=168107102050934545#168107102050934545
> 
> 
> 
> No youtube account so I can’t post one on this place yet.
> 
> Pete





Norton said:


> Laz, I posted one here.
> 
> 
> 
> https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/topic/nyc-shops-builds-a-second-h10b-mikado?reply=168107102050934545#168107102050934545
> 
> 
> 
> No youtube account so I can’t post one on this place yet.
> 
> Pete


WOW PETE, that whistle and swinging bell is really great. YOU should be a consultant to LIONEL a how to build a great NYC Engine. Well done 👍.


----------



## 86TA355SR

The initial smoke box streaking effect is done. After a few days drying, I’ll blend if needed and then clear.










I think the fire / smoke box will dry much lighter. Hopeful it will. Hard to tell with oil paints. If not I’ll remove some paint and lighten the color. 

Boiler needs a few days to dry, back to the running gear tomorrow. Then a bunch of decals to apply on number boards.


----------



## 86TA355SR

Lightened fire box grime:









Then a light wash on cylinders:


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Lightened fire box grime:
> View attachment 593072
> 
> 
> Then a light wash on cylinders:
> View attachment 593074
> 
> View attachment 593073


Looks great. What base color are you using for the firebox/smokebox?


----------



## 86TA355SR

lou1985 said:


> Looks great. What base color are you using for the firebox/smokebox?


Thank you, it’s Scale Coat “Oil & Graphite” straight out of bottle, sprayed over light grey primer. I remember correctly, it’s a semi metallic.

Sometimes I use oil paint to lighten the color after it dries or add a drop of black to darken before spraying.

Favorite color for smoke boxes. Closely matches UP practice during steam era.


----------



## Krieglok

I finished my Erie crane and boom car, finally. I added some last details to both and I am basically satisfied with the end product.

The boom car was repainted slightly, simplifying the look a bit. I added some chains and a spreader bar.









The wrecker itself, received two cab front spot lights and a steam whistle. I touched up some of the cables with bit of silver paint…










I need a shot of the other side to show the whistle…

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Tom,

The details are a great touch, painted 2x4 ends, rusty chains and spotlights look real. I really like the rusty chain effect. The worn cables are well done, what a great idea! It’s simple and adds a lot to the crane.

You add the scale wheels to the truck?


----------



## Krieglok

Thanks Aaron!

Lots of elements at work there. The chains were old costume jewelry pieces I painted with boxcar red paint. The wood blocks were HO lumber loads I cut apart to get smaller blocking.

I may paint a tool/equipment car to add to the train.

The truck was a 2R truck I had from a Weaver car. I have a ton of them…lol

Tom


----------



## Scratch3rail

Headlight and continued assembly


----------



## 86TA355SR

Scored the UP smoke stacks at a NMRA show this weekend. They’re “take off” parts from damaged locomotives, never done by aftermarket & extremely difficult to find. 

Castings will be made of the two on the right. It’s worth the investment to complete projects and I can use a lot of these stacks for the era I model.


























Painted on the pilot and chassis tonight. May get tender trucks assembled tomorrow and attach them.


----------



## Norton

Started putting together a Stevenson Preservation kit. This is a model of one of the three remaining NYC steam engines now located in Utica, NY. 0-6-0 switcher.



















Pete


----------



## 86TA355SR

I‘m all interest, looked at those kits many times. You’re the first person I saw build one.


----------



## Norton

This is my first one. Castings are rough and require a lot of clean up. Instructions are sparse. The prototype is about 150 miles from me so I may have to head over and get some detail pics to figure out how it goes together. No one else has done an actual NYC 0-6-0. Not sure yet if I will three rail it. I have a Weaver USRA 0-6-0 I could swap the chassis with. We’ll see. It may just sit in front of my station like the prototype. Its a perfect candidate for Blunami.

Pete


----------



## laz57

Good Luck with it PETE. Looks like you’ll have another great looking engine. Do they still make Utica Club up there?


----------



## Scratch3rail

Norton said:


> This is my first one. Castings are rough and require a lot of clean up. Instructions are sparse. The prototype is about 150 miles from me so I may have to head over and get some detail pics to figure out how it goes together. No one else has done an actual NYC 0-6-0. Not sure yet if I will three rail it. I have a Weaver USRA 0-6-0 I could swap the chassis with. We’ll see. It may just sit in front of my station like the prototype. Its a perfect candidate for Blunami.
> 
> Pete


Best of luck on that, I’m looking forward to seeing your progress! 
Those models look beautiful, no way I could afford one, but it’s really getting me looking forward to scratchbuilding a locomotive.


----------



## Krieglok

laz57 said:


> Good Luck with it PETE. Looks like you’ll have another great looking engine. Do they still make Utica Club up there?


Personally, I was a Genesee fan…a little closer to home. Utica Club is still made, I believe…

Tom


----------



## Norton

laz57 said:


> Good Luck with it PETE. Looks like you’ll have another great looking engine. Do they still make Utica Club up there?


Thanks Laz. I haven’t had it in quite a while but as Tom says UC is still made. While looking it up I found it interesting that FX Matt is the 4th oldest brewery in the US. Both FX Matt and Genesee have branched out and make many other brews plus contract with other name brands. Both doing well.

OB Trains, adding more detail to the tender today. Film at eleven.

Pete


----------



## laz57

TOM and PETE,
Yes drank lots of GENESEE while I was at Mansfield State College back in the 70s. Like the regular GENESEE as for the Cream Ale….we use to go to the Champion outlet in Perry NY and I think we paid .99 a six pack. Great deal on t shirts, sweat shirts too.


----------



## Norton

That must go Wasaay back Laz. I thought 10 bucks a thirty pack was cheap.

Pete


----------



## Krieglok

Genny Cream Ale…in the 1 pounder bottles….we were good for a few cases every weekend…

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Norton said:


> This is my first one. Castings are rough and require a lot of clean up. Instructions are sparse...
> 
> Pete


The Mikado kit would be a nice starting point for a version I’d like to build.

His site is limited but he stocks thousands of parts if you’re ever looking for something specific. Great guy.


----------



## Norton

86TA355SR said:


> The Mikado kit would be a nice starting point for a version I’d like to build.
> 
> His site is limited but he stocks thousands of parts if you’re ever looking for something specific. Great guy.


The tender now has all the parts supplied in the kit. The rear light was replaced with a Lionel item which has a higher pedestal to clear the rim. I plan to add a few more details. Interesting it has a wood base on the frame. I assume like the prototype.



















Here are most of the parts for the engine to give you an idea what a kit is comprised of.










Pete


----------



## 86TA355SR

I like the “keyed” axles so no quartering is involved. Is there a gear box and geared axle included?

Looks to be a well designed kit. 

Please keep us updated on progress. Will be a unique model when complete.

Aaron


----------



## Norton

It came with a NWSL gearbox plus chain and sprockets vs belt drive. This time I will read the whole manual first vs page by page that I did with the tender to cut down on the surprises.
Added a few more parts today.










A good friend sent this. This will be the goal.










Pete


----------



## Krieglok

Norton said:


> The tender now has all the parts supplied in the kit. The rear light was replaced with a Lionel item which has a higher pedestal to clear the rim. I plan to add a few more details. Interesting it has a wood base on the frame. I assume like the prototype.
> 
> View attachment 593533
> 
> 
> View attachment 593534
> 
> 
> Here are most of the parts for the engine to give you an idea what a kit is comprised of.
> 
> View attachment 593535
> 
> 
> Pete


Lots of parts. I probably missed it, but are the parts assembled with soldering or glued? Nice to have an existing prototype to work from.

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

Flats cars….exciting stuff here.

I picked up a Bachmann On30 30’ flat car. I took it apart and rebuilt the frame so it would accept 3R O scale trucks. Mostly involved sawing off the scale couple pockets and using it to build up the truck bolsters.

I bought some archbar truck kits from Wiseman Models and assembled them with high rail wheels. All put together and painted the car. I used some old time decals I had, as well as some Erie decals. This is the end product…


















I bought a Weaver 40’ PRR flat car and stripped it with the intentions of repainting it into Erie. I painted it black and started trying to get the right decals but my regular supplier didn’t have them. I waited a couple weeks then grew tired of the blank car laying around, so I painted it with some PRR freight car red and decaled it for PRR…quite a transformation!


























Tom


----------



## Norton

Krieglok said:


> Lots of parts. I probably missed it, but are the parts assembled with soldering or glued? Nice to have an existing prototype to work from.
> 
> Tom


Pretty much all soldered Tom. FWIW I am not exactly new to this. Been working on Brass engines for over half a century now. Mostly HO. First time building a complete one in O scale though.

Pete


----------



## laz57

PETE,
I too am wondering what you used to solder, a torch or an iron on these parts. They do have those little pocket torches?


----------



## Norton

laz57 said:


> PETE,
> I too am wondering what you used to solder, a torch or an iron on these parts. They do have those little pocket torches?


Everything I have Laz. Small butane torch, 45 watt pencil iron, homemade resistance soldering outfit with tweezers and big tip that I made from a pencil iron. I recently picked up a 250 watt American Beauty Resistnace solderer too. Not so much for the transformer but it included a tweezer handpiece with small tips. The price was less than what American Beauty wants for just the tweezers. I will modify my tweezers for larger electrodes now.










Pete


----------



## laz57

Wow PETE, YOU got it going on!!!👍👍


----------



## 86TA355SR

Norton said:


> Everything I have Laz. …
> 
> Pete


Yes sir, all essential tools for brass models. 

Enjoying the progress photos of the switcher. Ever scratch build a brass steamer?


----------



## Norton

86TA355SR said:


> Yes sir, all essential tools for brass models.
> 
> Enjoying the progress photos of the switcher. Ever scratch build a brass steamer?


I have always aspired to build one from scratch but this will likely be as close as I get to that.
Back in the day I would strip some of the early brass of all its detail which was crudely cast and replaced it with Cal Scale and Kemtron parts. Never formed sheet brass into boilers and cabs.

Pete


----------



## 86TA355SR

I consider building a scratch built brass steamer the ultimate challenge in the hobby. The attention to detail and machine skills/work required fascinates me. Plus, you could build any steamer you ever wanted.


----------



## Norton

86TA355SR said:


> I consider building a scratch built brass steamer the ultimate challenge in the hobby. The attention to detail and machine skills/work required fascinates me. Plus, you could build any steamer you ever wanted.


I started gravitating to scale trains around ten or eleven. Lionel was going into more toy fantasy items and I had seen a number of O and HO layouts wanted to go in that direction. Started reading Model Railroad and RMC and most all the articles were about building trains, scenery, structures, rolling stock. Every year the winners at the National Conventions were shown. Couldn’t imagine building a shay or any engine for that matter. I have since met a few that do that now. I agree the ultimate challenge would be to scratch an engine. After seeing all the parts in this kit I am not sure I have the time. Maybe if they ever make an affordable 3D metal printer but I would have to sell my collection to afford one today.

Pete


----------



## Krieglok

Another conversion using a Bachmann On30 rail car. This one is a tank car that seems to be a closer match to the tank cars used in the 1800’s to haul oil products from the oil region in NW Pennsylvania. Here is a photo of a actual modified Cornplanter tank car, the only image I can find…




















I removed the On30 trucks and removed the coupler pockets. The new bolsters were located a bit inboard from the originals and the proper height was achieved with scrap styrene pieces. I used Wiseman Models Archbar Truck kits for the new standard gauge trucks. I modified two Weaver couplers to fit the trucks and mounted the completed assemblies on the frame. After the separate parts were painted and decaled, the car was assembled. A final clear coat finished the car…










While not exact, the car captures the 19th century feel of the railroad rolling stock of the era…

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Very nice, Tom. Another beautiful model joins your collection.

Aaron


----------



## Krieglok

86TA355SR said:


> Very nice, Tom. Another beautiful model joins your collection.
> 
> Aaron


Thanks Aaron.

It isn’t perfect, but I am just getting back into kit bashing seeing what works and what doesn’t.

The trucks were the hardest part, assembling the frames, bolster and those horrible little springs! There has to be a better way of installing them. I used an exacto knife to squeeze the into the spring pockets. That process took a couple hours!

Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Yeah Tom, I feel your pain with those little springs. 

Can barely see them anymore WITH magnifying glasses and handling is another feat, haha. I use sharp pointed tweezers to wrestle the little guys in place but it’s still not the easiest most time. Also, bent paper clips or stiff wire have been used. There’s usually some cussing involved too. Seems to help the most, wife is impressed by my PhD in _that._

My favorite is watching one shoot away, almost as if a bullet, never to be seen again across the abyss workbench which swallows them whole somehow without me seeing it do so….good times!


----------



## Krieglok

Yes! There are a few loose springs hiding in various locations in my dining room. Luckily, the kits had a few spare springs!

Tom


----------



## Norton

Tom, I also use sharp tweezers with a curved bend. Decent quality. The cheap Asian ones will only add to the frustration.

Pete


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I use the tweezers to put them in, the X-acto knife lets them get loose and fly away.


----------



## Krieglok

I started another project. It is a inexpensive Walthers O scale short baggage car kit.










I was going to make an Erie tool car out of it, for my Erie wreck train. The more I looked at it, I thought it would look good with my 4-4-0 as a woodside car.

It was started by someone, but since I decided I want to make it a woodside rather than steel side, I removed the stamped metal sides and did some measurements for the siding.











I still need to clean up the tons of Walthers Goo glue used by the previous owner. The ends, roof and floor will remain. The sides will be reinforced before installing…










I just need to figure out the right set of four wheel trucks for it. Atlas trucks look right. Just need the right coupler length. Not worried about lighting at this point. The final assembly will probably not allow access for maintenance.

Tom


----------



## Lehigh74

Krieglok said:


> Not worried about lighting at this point. The final assembly will probably not allow access for maintenance.
> 
> Tom


When I change lighting in a set of passenger cars over to LEDs, I just remove the incandescent lights from the baggage car. Baggage cars don't really need lighting. Do they?


----------



## Krieglok

Lehigh74 said:


> When I change lighting in a set of passenger cars over to LEDs, I just remove the incandescent lights from the baggage car. Baggage cars don't really need lighting. Do they?


I figure baggage cars didnt have much lighting. That’s why I wasn’t too worried about lighting in this one. I wouldn’t mind it running dark, but I may change my mind before I glue on the sides…

Tom


----------



## Scratch3rail

Taking a break from paint work on the K-4. I picked up some basket case cars on eBay a few weeks ago, among which was a 2555 tank car. A lot of scrubbing, painting, and coupler rebuilding later, and she’s starting to look whole again:


----------



## jrnyfilms

This observation open air car ran until WW2 in the summers on the Milwaukee Road. I built it by modifying a old Walthers Observation Kit. It's got working marker lights and Atlas trucks. It was a fun project and it's something you won't see on any other layout. Don


----------



## Norton

Beautiful car and layout Don. Nice work!

Got the 0-6-0 steamchest assembled. Most pieces held using 63/37 solder but the cylinder wrapper got 275F melt point TIX solder with hope the other parts wouldn't fall off. The rectangular sheet was first annealed before bending it around the cylinders.



















Pete
Pete


----------



## laz57

Looks great PETE, love the shine. Did you ever use the clay for soldering to prevent heat on other products. I remember when in shop teacher school that there was something used like clay to diffuse the heat? I never used it but it might help?


----------



## Norton

I have not heard of that Laz. I assume natural earth vs modeling clay? Its a dance to apply just enough heat to the new part so the previous parts don’t melt off. I may have to use some 450 degree solder when I start on the boiler.
Pete


----------



## 86TA355SR

jrnyfilms said:


> …. I built it by modifying a old Walthers Observation Kit. It's got working marker lights and Atlas trucks. It was a fun project and it's something you won't see on any other layout. Don


Very cool, beautiful layout.



Norton said:


> Beautiful car and layout Don. Nice work!
> 
> Got the 0-6-0 steamchest assembled.…
> 
> Pete
> Pete


A LOT of work there, well done. How difficult was it keeping everything “square”?


----------



## Norton

86TA355SR said:


> Very cool, beautiful layout.
> 
> 
> 
> A LOT of work there, well done. How difficult was it keeping everything “square”?


The main casting was keyed so not too bad. I used a jig for the cross head and valve guides. Not bad.
The wrappers were a PITA as there are no parallel surfaces to clamp on so it was a bit tedious doing a small amount at a time. Instructions, dimensions, and pictures are minimal. You pretty much have to figure it out on your own. 
Wheels are junk. No two crank pins are the same distance from center or quarter. Wheels are self quartering with square holes so almost impossible to fill the existing crank pin holes and redrill.
No help from Stevenson. Inquiries return crickets.
So its almost like scratch building.

Pete


----------



## Krieglok

Great work, guys.

S3R, nice restoration on the tank car. Great to see the older stuff live on! Doing multiple projects keeps thing interesting. The locomotive is coming along well…

Don, the open air car is certainly unique! The detail work is wonderful. The layout it is running on, looks amazing too.

Pete, as usual, the brass work is very interesting. I may get to that level in another 20 years. I am still poking along with my baggage car project. I had three Labelle kits arrive yesterday. A baggage and two flat cars. They look intimidating…lol

Tom


----------



## jrnyfilms

Tom, that must have been a wonderful ride across the Cascade Mountains in the summer. Don


----------



## Krieglok

jrnyfilms said:


> Tom, that must have been a wonderful ride across the Cascade Mountains in the summer. Don
> View attachment 594467


Being pulled by a Bipolar!

Tom


----------



## Three-Railineering

I've been away from the hobby for about ten years for college and getting settled with my career, but kinda sorta got back into a few weeks ago when I picked up this bugger: a 1993 or 1994 MTH C30-7 in Conrail colors. Research indicates it's one of the first MTH models that wasn't a Lionel reproduction. She rans OK but would intermittent cut-out when I tried running it on some track on my workbench. Tapping would bring it back online. Further investigation showed plenty of kabloogered wiring under the shell, stacked capacitors with suspect soldering, and a On/Off switch that was broken and glued in the Off position. I am currently working on installing proper connectors for all the wiring, new capacitors to fit better under the upper board, and a thorough cleaning of the wheels, pick-up rollers, and gearboxes.


----------



## Firewood

Once I get it back I'll install DCS and get it running. 
----------------------------------
Great project and a beautiful model! I'm not knowledgable on command control at all - how do you install DCS or similar in an adapted model? Are after-market circuit boards available, or are they taken from another locomotive source? 

FW


----------



## jrnyfilms

Tom, I have a Bipolar for the train but it's not black. Someday I will get a black one. Don


----------



## Krieglok

Ah, that a beautiful engine.

I have a Milwaukee passenger train set from MTH. The first thing I bought was my MTH Bipolar…


















It was used and a PS2/3v system. A great looking motor. I even have one in HO scale….that one is in the later yellow scheme…

Tom


----------



## jrnyfilms

Tom, I also have two sets of GE box cabs and two MTH scale Little Joes. Love those electrics. All of them run on powered overhead wire. Don


----------



## 86TA355SR

Installed the number boards. I‘m not sure about the headlight lense. If I had a lathe I’d turn a brass insert to fit inside headlight casting & contour a lense.









The tender is reassembled, finished weathering. My coal load has issues so may delay completing the model. I hope to have the locomotive itself assembled tonight.


----------



## Krieglok

Nice work Aaron! The engine has a nice dusty/sooty look to it.

Is the headlight an LED? I figure some thin brass sheet could be used to form a reflector for the inside.

Are you making the coal load removable?

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

jrnyfilms said:


> Tom, I also have two sets of GE box cabs and two MTH scale Little Joes. Love those electrics. All of them run on powered overhead wire. Don
> View attachment 594531


I can’t get over the scenery. I am a catenary fan and the mountain setting of the Milwaukee always intrigued me. I have a small electric locomotive collection of MILW stuff, including a Little Joe and the box cab set…









Tom


----------



## 86TA355SR

Krieglok said:


> Nice work Aaron! The engine has a nice dusty/sooty look to it.
> 
> Is the headlight an LED? I figure some thin brass sheet could be used to form a reflector for the inside.
> 
> Are you making the coal load removable?
> 
> Tom


Thanks, it‘s been a lot of fun painting this beast. Excited to see it finish.

It’s an LED headlight but not installed in picture. I have a few ideas to make a headlight reflector. A conical reflector will look much better. It’s _way _bigger than a standard size UP light so I don’t have much in my part box, haha. 

Coal load is removable. Glue dripped past my ”mold“ sides and tore the foam core during removal. I use blasting slag for “coal” so obviously it’s abrasive…fresh paint…see where this leads too…No big deal I thought, simply glued in coal to fill void. Didn‘t think about changing the shape of foam core bottom, now it doesn’t fit. I’m doing surgery on it tonight, haha


----------



## 86TA355SR

I like this headlight better:


----------



## Krieglok

86TA355SR said:


> Thanks, it‘s been a lot of fun painting this beast. Excited to see it finish.
> 
> It’s an LED headlight but not installed in picture. I have a few ideas to make a headlight reflector. A conical reflector will look much better. It’s _way _bigger than a standard size UP light so I don’t have much in my part box, haha.
> 
> Coal load is removable. Glue dripped past my ”mold“ sides and tore the foam core during removal. I use blasting slag for “coal” so obviously it’s abrasive…fresh paint…see where this leads too…No big deal I thought, simply glued in coal to fill void. Didn‘t think about changing the shape of foam core bottom, now it doesn’t fit. I’m doing surgery on it tonight, haha


The new headlight looks fine. Curious to see it lit.

Blasting slag…I remember using “Black Beauty“ in 50lb bags when I was a mason’s helper working on rebuilding sewage plants for the NYS Thruway. We had tons of that stuff all over the place!

Tom


----------



## laz57

Yes TOM, Black Beauty is what I use for all my hopper loads. I got it at Tractor Supply for like 8 bucks a bag. I have both medium and fine grits. Works great.


----------



## Norton

Upgrading a Weaver Hiawatha with a Pittman motor, fan smoke, and PS2. These have a 44:1 gearbox and run incredibly slow. Makes your Lionel Legacy engine look like a Post War Scout. I am considering replacing the gearbox with a NWSL to make it more suitable for passenger service.










Pete


----------



## 86TA355SR

Very cool, Pete!


----------



## laz57

Nice PETE, looks like it is belching out lots o smoke!!


----------



## Norton

laz57 said:


> Nice PETE, looks like it is belching out lots o smoke!!


Thats a Lionchief smoke unit. Its still getting better, almost to MTH quantity. Nice thing about these units is they come with an 8 ohm resistor, albeit single, and both resistor and fan motor are isolated from chassis ground required by PS2/3 setups. Turned out it was the easiest to fit in this application too.

Pete


----------



## 86TA355SR

Always enjoy reading about the electronics you and Lou add to stuff. Interesting and creative.

Today closes the brass project I’ve been working on for three months. Final assembly went well and I enjoyed fixing/painting this unique model. 

For those who may have missed it, here’s what I received:

















And the completed model:










































On to the next project!

Aaron


----------



## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Always enjoy reading about the electronics you and Lou add to stuff. Interesting and creative.
> 
> Today closes the brass project I’ve been working on for three months. Final assembly went well and I enjoyed fixing/painting this unique model.
> 
> For those who may have missed it, here’s what I received:
> View attachment 594652
> 
> View attachment 594653
> 
> 
> And the completed model:
> 
> View attachment 594657
> 
> View attachment 594656
> 
> View attachment 594666
> 
> View attachment 594655
> 
> View attachment 594654
> 
> 
> On to the next project!
> 
> Aaron


That came out pretty sweet. Weathering is just right for an in-service locomotive as well. The smokebox on that must have been a giant PITA to paint.


----------



## 86TA355SR

lou1985 said:


> That came out pretty sweet. Weathering is just right for an in-service locomotive as well. The smokebox on that must have been a giant PITA to paint.


Thanks, I resisted the temptation to stray from the reference pictures. You and Tom‘s comment made me happy to read, exactly the look I wanted.

The smoke box was a real challenge, a lot of time & effort to paint the pipes. It’s the most difficult I’ve done to date. Very satisfying to see it complete.


----------



## Norton

Aaron, Another fine job. Any tips on the smokebox painting appreciated. Did you paint the silver first and then the pipes? If so were the pipes brush or spray painted and what paint are you using? I am a bit intimidated by the H10 smokebox.

Pete


----------



## 86TA355SR

Norton said:


> Aaron, Another fine job. Any tips on the smokebox painting appreciated. Did you paint the silver first and then the pipes? If so were the pipes brush or spray painted and what paint are you using? I am a bit intimidated by the H10 smokebox.
> 
> Pete


Pete,

Yes, I first masked the smokebox, painted the silver using an airbrush with Scale Coat “Graphite & Oil”. Then brush painted the pipes & details with SC black.


























A bright light mounted high above workspace helps tremendously. Mine is simple-1000 W halogen work light screwed to a 2 X4 which is clamped to the workbench. I’m not sure I could’ve done this project without it.

Small brushes with good bristles goes without saying. I‘ve been buying the h#ll out of those at Hobby Lobby, every few weeks they have a 50% off sale on brushes. Some are $3 after discount and they’re great quality brushes. 

I looked at the H10 smoke box. Won’t be a challenge for a guy like you, haha.


----------



## Krieglok

An extraordinary project, Aaron! The amount of work accomplished in a relatively short time is amazing.
All top notch techniques and craftsmanship.

Obviously, I am envious! Thanks for sharing the process and progression of the project throughout.

Tom


----------



## Krieglok

Doing more work on some MTH 19th Century cars.

This tank car was shorn of the tank and cradle. The deck has been replaced with some Evergreen car siding and a new handbrake has been added. Turnbuckles were added to the truss rods and painted...waiting to be painted and decaled.



















Next are three stock MTH cars. I added new brake wheels, brake platforms and turnbuckles. The cars will receive a clear coat of Tamiya flat spray










And a completed car, lettered for the NYC&HR RR. Nice paint schemes by MTH…










Tom


----------



## laz57

Looking good feelin good TOM!!👍👍


----------



## Krieglok

Thanks Laz!

The box cars were finally finished. I am waiting for some stake pockets for the flat cars now. Here are the modified, factory painted cars in a better light…


























Finished a couple newer boxcars too…










A little size comparison thrown in…










Tom


----------



## Krieglok

Still in the car shop.

Re-siding a wooden baggage car kit….roughing it out now..adding trim next…



















Still waiting for some flat car parts and adding some boards…











Next, a 1800’s boxcar with added trim and details…painting next.












Finally a 40’ boxcar that started out well, but went south with the clear coat step…










And back into the stripper tank…










Tom


----------



## lou1985

The rear steps on my Lionel Union Pacific E7s have bugged me since I bought them. They are short little nubs so the truck can be turned and popped off (Liondrive) and so the locomotive can go around 036 curves.

















I don't care if I have to remove the steps to get the trucks off and if these will go around 036 curves, so I replaced the rear steps. I used the rear steps from MTH F units. Looks 100% better and they just bolted on.


----------



## Krieglok

lou1985 said:


> The rear steps on my Lionel Union Pacific E7s have bugged me since I bought them. They are short little nubs so the truck can be turned and popped off (Liondrive) and so the locomotive can go around 036 curves.
> View attachment 594961
> 
> View attachment 594960
> 
> 
> I don't care if I have to remove the steps to get the trucks off and if these will go around 036 curves, so I replaced the rear steps. I used the rear steps from MTH F units. Looks 100% better and they just bolted on.
> View attachment 594963
> 
> View attachment 594962


Definitely a big improvement. Those are very handsome locomotives too!

Tom


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

lou1985 said:


> The rear steps on my Lionel Union Pacific E7s have bugged me since I bought them. They are short little nubs so the truck can be turned and popped off (Liondrive) and so the locomotive can go around 036 curves.
> 
> I don't care if I have to remove the steps to get the trucks off and if these will go around 036 curves, so I replaced the rear steps. I used the rear steps from MTH F units. Looks 100% better and they just bolted on.


Big improvement, and I love the simple fixes!


----------



## lou1985

That was my last easy project. I'm just about done with work for the rest of the year, so the plan is to get PS3 installed in both my ATSF Texas and SP GS4 projects before the new year.


----------



## Millstonemike

lou1985 said:


> That was my last easy project. I'm just about done with work for the rest of the year, so the plan is to get PS3 installed in both my ATSF Texas and SP GS4 projects before the new year.


Which mfg.'s SP GS4?


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## lou1985

Millstonemike said:


> Which mfg.'s SP GS4?


MTH, just like the ATSF Texas.


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## Krieglok

Finally finished my one of my two MTH 19th century flat cars. Both re-decked and various details added. I painted them and used various decals to produce a fictitious pair. One is DL&W, the other Buffalo and Susquehanna. I worked from a very few images available in books to try and get the right look...

The B&S car is still drying in the paint shop. Here is the Lackawanna car…never mind the high/low coupler…didn’t notice until I used the image here….lol.



















Now, the search for a period correct load to put on the cars, begins. Perhaps some farm implement…

Tom


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## Norton

After Jeff posted that he was considering a Lionel UP H7 and then finding it had been in a flood I thought I would take a chance on it. It arrived a bit worse for wear do to poor packing and I did find it was under water for a time. Fortunately no one tried to power it up wet and it did run when I got it but a few things like the smoke unit and headlight were not working and it was covered with a brown film.
After taking it apart I cleaned it up and got the smoke unit and light working by cleaning all the connectors and switches.
Also upgraded to 4 chuffs with a cam swap.

Still waiting on parts from Lionel. It also ranks as the most difficult engine I have worked on yet surpassing the Lionel TMCC NYC Niagara in parts that have to be removed to do the simplest repairs.











Pete


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## gunrunnerjohn

Looks great Pete, I like all the detailing, Lionel did a good job on this one.


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## Norton

Its definitely a quality build. I didn’t have to add any detail. Just not easy to service. Came with cab curtains and cab apron.










Pete


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## Krieglok

A brute of an engine. The headlight location is interesting. The low mounting probably didn’t give much of a field of view to see at night…

Tom


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## 86TA355SR

How appropriate!

The UP had two version, the C&O and the “shopped“ version. Take a look at page 70 for differences, mine compared to Pete’s at bottom of page. 

Lionel did a great job with this one. It‘s a beauty. 


Tom, 

The freight cars look great, more masterpieces for your inventory.

Aaron


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## lou1985

I finally got the parts box GS4 done. I won the PS2 shells from last year's NYE Cabin Fever MTH warehouse auction for $65. The rest of the locomotive literally came out of my parts box, and is a combination of PS1/PS2/PS3 parts. Locomotive chassis is PS1 with blackened drivers, rods are satin PS2, lead truck is PS1, trailing truck PS2. Motor is a rare earth magnet, 6mm ball bearing 9234 Pittman. Tender chassis is PS3 with a drawbar stud added, trucks are PS3 with tender chains. Wire harness is from a PS3 Reading T1. I re-pinned it for the proper GS4 lighting outputs and converted it from wireless drawbar to a wire tether. Speaker is a 4ohm 50mm Visaton, boards are factory PS3 EMI boiler/tender boards.


















Finished locomotive.


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## Krieglok

Thanks Aaron. I am gradually doing deeper mods and will eventually end up building kits for the time period I am modeling now.

Lou, your extensive labor has really produced a beautiful locomotive. The mechanical and technical improvements are impressive to read about. Thanks for sharing!

Tom


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## 86TA355SR

Lou,

You can do it all, electronics, mechanical, and paint! 

I’ve said this before, you & Pete are so impressive with electronics. I really enjoy watching the projects and stuff you build.


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## laz57

Nice job LOU!!! WOW a what a great whistle to.


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## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> Lou,
> 
> You can do it all, electronics, mechanical, and paint!
> 
> I’ve said this before, you & Pete are so impressive with electronics. I really enjoy watching the projects and stuff you build.


Some mechanical. If I can use a drill, drill press, or Dremel to fix something I'm good. If I have to machine something I contact someone like Pete who knows what he's doing.


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## lou1985

I completed the ATSF Texas I picked up from the same Cabin Fever MTH warehouse auction that I got the CNW E4 Hudson and SP GS4 from. This came unpainted with no motor, driveline, and missing detail parts. I painted/decaled it over the summer, added the missing detail parts, and added whistle and bell cords. There is no PS3 ATSF Texas sound file so I took a PS3 PRR Texas sound file and modified it with ATSF specific sounds and an ATSF 6 chime whistle. I put the wire harness together from my parts bin. All the lighting is LEDs. Tender sports twin 50mm Visaton speakers. Locomotive has my usual motor choice, a 12V 9234 Pittman with rare earth magnets and 6mm ball bearings.


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## Krieglok

Great job. That is the Santa Fe engine I always wanted in O scale. You must have quite a stable of engines that you have built!

Tom


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## lou1985

Krieglok said:


> Great job. That is the Santa Fe engine I always wanted in O scale. You must have quite a stable of engines that you have built!
> 
> Tom


Thanks. It's my 3rd Premier ATSF Texas. I keep buying multiples of ATSF steam because I really like the locomotives and I can get stuff on the cheap if I refinish/rebuild/upgrade them. Otherwise I couldn't afford to buy them all new. I've built or upgraded half of the locomotives in my fleet. But to say I have a fondness for ATSF steam is an understatement. I've got:

Four Premier ATSF 3460 class Hudsons: 3460 (Blue Goose with PS3 electronics installed by me), 3463 (PS2 3V), 3464 (PS3 electronics installed by me), 3465 (came to me missing boards and a motor, installed factory PS3 boiler/tender boards).

Three ATSF Northerns. Two 2900 class (MTH Premier 2903 and 2921,with PS3 installed in both by me) and a Legacy 3751 class (3759).

Three Premier ATSF Texans: A 5001 (5009) class I built and installed PS3 in, 5025 (PS2 3V), and 5012 which I painted and just installed PS3 in.

I've also got a problem with SP GS class Northerns. I've got 3, all Premier. GS4s 4449 is a PS1 upgraded to PS2 3V, 4432 I just did a full factory PS3 upgrade on, and GS6 4460 I put a PS3 steam kit in.


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## 86TA355SR

Not the best picture because I forgot until it was on the shelf. Coal load installed, though I’ll revisit it in the future.

Next spring I’ll paint a UP brass caboose to match the locomotive. 

contemplating new project. Several Mikados and a Mountain await fabrication work. 

Happy New Year.


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## Krieglok

Did some detail mods to a MTH stock 34’ reefer. I used some Vallejo Wash as an experiment. It worked out well. Just a sight hint of weathering…

Tom


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## 86TA355SR

Krieglok said:


> Did some detail mods to a MTH stock 34’ reefer. I used some Vallejo Wash as an experiment. It worked out well. Just a sight hint of weathering…
> 
> Tom


LOOKS GREAT! Love Vallejo products.


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## Norton

Tom, is that just dilute paint or do they make specific washes to do this? Looks good.

Pete


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## Krieglok

Thanks guys.

There are a number of Vallejo “washes” they sell for various colored vehicles. I used a wash designed for yellow vehicles. It is actually greenish. The wash seems to be a medium with pigment particles that settle into cracks and crevices.

It is a specific item. I works much better than the thinned paint washes I have used before. Here is a link where you can look at the various washes and their application uses.



Amazon.com : Hobby Tool Paints Vallejo wash



I bought a few different ones, for dark colors, yellow and greasy dirt. I applied them with a larger soft brush. Then I ring out the brush and use it to “mop up” the puddles that get left behind…

Tom


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## Krieglok

A couple more paint/detail projects just finished. Both MTH cars that were stripped and repainted. Decaled with K4 decals.

A MTH Premier 40” steel boxcar. This is an early steel car paint scheme for the NYCL. I have yet to install friction bearing trucks…










Next is a MTH Railking 19th Century reefer. It started life as a MTH club car, stripped and a few details added. Another NYCL car of an earlier vintage.




















Finally, the MTH 19th Century cars lack a detail that pretty much every real freight car of the era had. That detail is polling pockets. Polling pockets were located on each corner of the car frame and provided a point to insert a wood pole (usually carried on the engine) for the purpose of pushing cars on an adjacent track. The practice was eventually outlawed in the later 20th Century.

I scratch built a bunch of polling pockets…










Installed and filed them to clean them up a bit…










Here they are, painted to match the car. 










Interestingly, MTH did include the detail on their 19th century reefers, but none of the other 19th Century cars they produced, had them…

Tom


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## laz57

Very nice TOM!!! I really like the look of the Central Michigan car.


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## gunrunnerjohn

Started work on the electronics install for my Yellowbelly. Mounted the smoke unit and Cruise Commander. This will be a build with an IR tether, no wires.










Wired up the shell lighting and such, nineteen LED's provide all the lighting features. I just have to terminate the wires in a connector and I'm ready to wire up the chassis, probably a quicker process!









All the lighting is tested and I hope ready. Here's what the shell wiring looks like.


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## Krieglok

John, nice locomotive. The innards look pretty big. Must be a tight fit in that boiler.

That road map you posted must be in a city as it doesn’t have any curves…😉😉😉

Tom


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## gunrunnerjohn

There's room, but not much extra for the Cruise Commander. The reason I mounted that and the smoke first was to make sure I could get everything to fit. If the Cruise Commander didn't fit, it would have gone in the tender. Since it fits, I'll make this one with an IR tether like the commercial Lionel. 

I'll get all the stuff in...


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## Krieglok

laz57 said:


> Very nice TOM!!! I really like the look of the Central Michigan car.


Thanks Laz. It seems anytime I find what I think are unique decals to finish a car with, a commercially painted version shows up! I am waitingfor this to happen with this car.

I have a set of decals for a 34’ “Big 4” CCC&StL boxcar. I was eager to use them until I saw a MTH painted version on EBay...

Tom


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## Krieglok

gunrunnerjohn said:


> There's room, but not much extra for the Cruise Commander. The reason I mounted that and the smoke first was to make sure I could get everything to fit. If the Cruise Commander didn't fit, it would have gone in the tender. Since it fits, I'll make this one with an IR tether like the commercial Lionel.
> 
> I'll get all the stuff in...


Heh….if it doesn’t fit, make it fit…lol.

Tom


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## 86TA355SR

The electronic wizards always impress. GRJ will have that beast up in no time.

Another set of beautiful cars, Tom. You’re building quite a collection. 

Below is my new project, a 4-8-2. Of course, a bunch of parts await solder, a big stack is being cast, and a conversion to oil in the future prior to paint & weathering.


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## Krieglok

86TA355SR said:


> The electronic wizards always impress. GRJ will have that beast up in no time.
> 
> Another set of beautiful cars, Tom. You’re building quite a collection.
> 
> Below is my new project, a 4-8-2. Of course, a bunch of parts await solder, a big stack is being cast, and a conversion to oil in the future prior to paint & weathering.
> 
> View attachment 595884
> 
> View attachment 595883


A diamond in the rough!

What is the pedigree of this engine? The smoke box front looks interesting. Another great project by Aaron…

Tom


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## 86TA355SR

Tom,

It‘s US Hobby/KTM.

Their version is a 7000 series, I’m modifying into a late 7800 series with appropriate changes, extending the tender (complete), etc.

Mechanically, a new Pittman & a ball bearing drive will be installed. 

Aaron


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## Norton

Still working on the Stevenson 0-6-0. Been running into many road blocks along the way. First it was drivers out of quarter with crankpins installed in random locations, then after looking into possible remedies including replacing the driver centers and redrilling, a friend came across a Weaver 0-6-0 two rail chassis. While I can’t use the chassis I can use the wheels so they will be getting swapped.

Then after starting to put the shell together and getting to the point if placing it on the chassis I found the steamchest was way too high, almost 2/10 ths of an inch. Milled that down today along with the crosshead supports. Not something the average modeler would have the tools to do.

Before


















After, still fine tuning to do.










Pete


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## gunrunnerjohn

Norton said:


> Then after starting to put the shell together and getting to the point if placing it on the chassis I found the steamchest was way too high, almost 2/10 ths of an inch. Milled that down today along with the crosshead supports. Not something the average modeler would have the tools to do.


You're right about that Pete, that would have been a roadblock for me for sure!


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## 86TA355SR

Norton said:


> Still working on the Stevenson 0-6-0. .….. Not something the average modeler would have the tools to do.
> 
> Pete


Pete,

I admire your tenacity. It‘s a hell of a project you took on and you’re doing a great job. 

Aaron


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## Norton

86TA355SR said:


> Pete,
> 
> I admire your tenacity. It‘s a hell of a project you took on and you’re doing a great job.
> 
> Aaron


Not quite what I expected from a kit. It should be sold as materials for scratch building. A club member sent me a pic of a Lobough engine made in 40s. Boiler, stack, and domes look identical.










Pete


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## 86TA355SR

Yeah, I could tell from the stuff you've dealt with its not a shake the box kit. Really adds to the project when you have to deal with casting issues and other unplanned corrections at no fault to your own.

I’m certain this is Lobaugh, though I’m far from an expert. I recognize a lot of the parts and boiler. While great models in the day, they’re long in the tooth now and as such major projects to update.

A friend built a nice Lobaugh switcher with a modern ball bearing drive and can motor. I sent a PM with picture.


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## Krieglok

Norton said:


> Still working on the Stevenson 0-6-0. Been running into many road blocks along the way. First it was drivers out of quarter with crankpins installed in random locations, then after looking into possible remedies including replacing the driver centers and redrilling, a friend came across a Weaver 0-6-0 two rail chassis. While I can’t use the chassis I can use the wheels so they will be getting swapped.
> 
> Then after starting to put the shell together and getting to the point if placing it on the chassis I found the steamchest was way too high, almost 2/10 ths of an inch. Milled that down today along with the crosshead supports. Not something the average modeler would have the tools to do.
> 
> Before
> View attachment 595916
> 
> 
> View attachment 595917
> 
> 
> After, still fine tuning to do.
> 
> View attachment 595918
> 
> 
> Pete


Way out of my league, compared to my current project. Pete, It is going to make a great looking engine. The lowering is really dramatic…

Tom


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## 86TA355SR

The local Hobby Lobby had the nice Master Touch series paint brushes on sale today, 40% off, if anyone is interested.


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## lou1985

86TA355SR said:


> The electronic wizards always impress. GRJ will have that beast up in no time.
> 
> Another set of beautiful cars, Tom. You’re building quite a collection.
> 
> Below is my new project, a 4-8-2. Of course, a bunch of parts await solder, a big stack is being cast, and a conversion to oil in the future prior to paint & weathering.
> 
> View attachment 595884
> 
> View attachment 595883


Nice. Don't see many models of UP Mountains.


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