# Lionel 259 and 2037



## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

Hi guys,

I'm new here and need help, I will receive this locos 259 and 2037, not sure if they are in working condition, but just in case I need to reconstruct the motor, what's the wire size of each armature of 259 and 2037.


Thanks,
Gustavo


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Welcome to the forum first. Your question about armature wire seems a little premature, as the chance of having a defective armature is pretty slim. From looking at your initial posts, you don't have a transformer or track yet. If that is the case, I would wait until you had those items. The primary thing is a transformer, which I don't know if you have access to one. Once you have that, we can guide you through the process of testing the locos, and what to do to get them running. The group here can get you going in no time.


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

teledoc said:


> Welcome to the forum first. Your question about armature wire seems a little premature, as the chance of having a defective armature is pretty slim. From looking at your initial posts, you don't have a transformer or track yet. If that is the case, I would wait until you had those items. The primary thing is a transformer, which I don't know if you have access to one. Once you have that, we can guide you through the process of testing the locos, and what to do to get them running. The group here can get you going in no time.


Thanks for your reply, the sets arrives complete, tracks and transformers. I will tested and let you know.


Gustavo


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Ditto to Doc. Of the dozens of locos I've fiddled with, I've never found a faulty armature.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I've had to solder the commutator leads on one armature, I don't consider that one bad, but it had a small issue.

I did get a repair with the armature and field coils totally cooked, don't know exactly how he did that, but he got a new motor from Henning's basement stash as that one was certainly toast!


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

Well guys you were right, just following some restorations and I can get the 259 work, what a beauty.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

It is a really cool loco and set. You are very lucky. 

These early locos did not have the sound and features and smooth slow-speed running of modern locos, but they are incredibly durable: clean them up and take care of them and they last for decades. I love 'em.


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Excellent looking set, and just doing some simple maintenance, can get these old locos running again. Now, I guess you have to tackle the 2037, and get that running. Good luck!


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

Lee Willis said:


> It is a really cool loco and set. You are very lucky.
> 
> These early locos did not have the sound and features and smooth slow-speed running of modern locos, but they are incredibly durable: clean them up and take care of them and they last for decades. I love 'em.


Completely agree, this train is build like a tank, build to last. The train comes with the manual reverse, a switch in the back, the rarest 295 not 295E. I'm completely immersed in this hobby and hope I receive soon my Lionel 2037 and Marx 666 sets.


Gustavo


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

teledoc said:


> Excellent looking set, and just doing some simple maintenance, can get these old locos running again. Now, I guess you have to tackle the 2037, and get that running. Good luck!



Hi, yes I'm waiting for those sets and start with little maintenance and let them roll.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

259 glows! And the 529 / 530 are in amazing shape!!!


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Another prewar resurrected, nothing like them.


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

Hi guys,

I received the 2037, in very bad shape, poorly repainted ohhh my god a child's job!! After hours of love and care I revived the loco and whistle tender, repaired the transformer Type 053, 8-17V, and now runs beautifully!! The 2037 has 027 gauge track and the 259 doesn't like it, barely rolls, pretty sure she needs its original O gauge track.

Gustavo


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

The problem of the 259 vs. 2037 is one is "O" the other is "027". The flanges on the 259 wheels are deeper and the track profile of 027 is too shallow to accommodate the 259. If you are up to wanting to refinish the 2037 paint, you can strip the shell of existing paint, prime it, and repaint it. If that is your choice, you can get whatever info here on what to do. Enjoy your new trains.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

The 259 and cars are in great shape. :thumbsup:
You going to leave them as is? 
Maybe just add a little polish to them?
259 had a repaint at one time?

Did you get the tender for the 2037?
Just strip the paint off and repaint it.

We have threads here on the stripping the paint off, if you need some I will gladly dig some up for you.

If you use all O track, most all (if not all?) O/27 will run on them, then your set for O or O/27 trains.


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

teledoc said:


> The problem of the 259 vs. 2037 is one is "O" the other is "027". The flanges on the 259 wheels are deeper and the track profile of 027 is too shallow to accommodate the 259. If you are up to wanting to refinish the 2037 paint, you can strip the shell of existing paint, prime it, and repaint it. If that is your choice, you can get whatever info here on what to do. Enjoy your new trains.


Hi,

Fortunately a Marx 666 set is coming, can't stop my self of buying vintage trains, the 666 is O gauge and the set arrives with some track, I need to buy more though. I'm going to re paint the 2037, try to simulate the original finish if is possible, in the other hand the 259 is in great shape now, probably one polish and that's it.

Thanks for your help.

Gustavo


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

big ed said:


> The 259 and cars are in great shape. :thumbsup:
> You going to leave them as is?
> Maybe just add a little polish to them?
> 259 had a repaint at one time?
> ...


Hi,

Yeah the 259 set is in good shape,I just going to clean it, the loco seems to be in its original state, not sure I'm new in the hobby but I prefer to leave it alone. The 2037 tender is plastic and is 6/10, I don't mind the scratches, it's his history.

Regarding the tracks I will have to have both.

Gustavo


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

If you plan on stripping the 2037, the method that a lot of the members use is "Easy-off oven cleaner", not an off brand, but Easy-off. Do a search on here for stripping paint, and read the various postings, to get an idea, of the method they use. MY preferred stripper is "Castrol Super Clean", which is a de-greaser, found in Auto Parts stores mostly. I use it full strength in a container that the loco can be submersed in completely. In roughly 4-6 hours, you can scrub off the paint with an old toothbrush. The same goes for the Easy-off, but that may take longer. Once it is down to bare metal, go over it with a wire brush, or preferably a wire wheel. 
I then give it a quick wipe down with 90% isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol, just before spraying primer, and then paint. As for paint, don't know what you have available, but best choice is "Krylon Satin Black" spray paint, that will look close to original paint. Check some of the posts on restoring older trains, and take the tips that you think will work best for you. 
You will be satisfied with the results you can get, just don't try to rush any steps.


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

teledoc said:


> If you plan on stripping the 2037, the method that a lot of the members use is "Easy-off oven cleaner", not an off brand, but Easy-off. Do a search on here for stripping paint, and read the various postings, to get an idea, of the method they use. MY preferred stripper is "Castrol Super Clean", which is a de-greaser, found in Auto Parts stores mostly. I use it full strength in a container that the loco can be submersed in completely. In roughly 4-6 hours, you can scrub off the paint with an old toothbrush. The same goes for the Easy-off, but that may take longer. Once it is down to bare metal, go over it with a wire brush, or preferably a wire wheel.
> I then give it a quick wipe down with 90% isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol, just before spraying primer, and then paint. As for paint, don't know what you have available, but best choice is "Krylon Satin Black" spray paint, that will look close to original paint. Check some of the posts on restoring older trains, and take the tips that you think will work best for you.
> You will be satisfied with the results you can get, just don't try to rush any steps.



As a vintage toy collector, I don't like to alter any toy, even if is in bad shape, but with this 2037, I will re do it, just because it has a horrible unoriginal finished. Thanks for you help, I will tried to post the steps of his revival.


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

Well guys,

I started with the nasty Easy off, I will let it soak for a couple of hours and see. Regarding the paint, what type, the original color was mate black or satin, should I do clear coat after the paint?


Gustavo


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Leave it overnight, don't try to rush it.


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Haggy, Good start with the restoration, and it may take a few coats to get it stripped 100%, and you need to rinse it off with warm soapy water. You may need to use a wire brush to get into the recesses, and even an old toothbrush works well. Once it is stripped completely, I recommend giving it a quick wipe down of 91% rubbing alcohol, NOT Denatured alcohol. The preferred primer, & paint I recommend is "Krylon paint". I use Krylon supermaxx gray primer, and follow that up with Krylon Satin Black. The Krylon Satin Black is as close as you will get to original finish. Don't try to rush any of the steps, if you want a nice finished product. 

I wouldn't clear coat it, once it is painted. Air temperature should be 65-75 degrees F. when you spray it. Clear coats have a tendency to come out cloudy looking, so I would skip clear coat.

Your choice of paint comes down to what you have available, and the primer & paint HAVE to be same brand. Don't mix different brands, such as Rustoleum, and Krylon. They are not compatible. My personal preference is I will not use Rustoleum at all. It takes Forever to dry completely, with anything I have used it on, so I am totally against Rustoleum. Just my experience!!!

Keep us updated with your progress.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

What they said! And the don't rush it, is key. Take your time, and make sure to use the same brand primer and paint as some brands don't play well together. Looking good so far!


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

sjm9911 said:


> What they said! And the don't rush it, is key. Take your time, and make sure to use the same brand primer and paint as some brands don't play well together. Looking good so far!


Thanks, I will take my time and post the progress.



Gustavo


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

First layer of nasty stuff, so far so good, I just applied the second easy off layer hope tomorrow all the old painting will be striped off from the loco.


Re wiring the engine, these old cables look in bad shape.


Gustavo


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

Completely stripped, lots of moto tool, vacuum packing waiting for the primer tomorrow, i don't want any more oxidation.



Gustavo


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Haggy, You well on your way to an excellent restoration. Before you spray on the primer, give it a quick wipe down with "rubbing alcohol" like the stuff from a drug store. That will get rid of any oils from handling it, so that the primer can stick, with out any flaws in the finish. Once you get finished with this one, you will be a master at repainting anything else you acquire. 

It's looking excellent so far...............


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

teledoc said:


> Haggy, You well on your way to an excellent restoration. Before you spray on the primer, give it a quick wipe down with "rubbing alcohol" like the stuff from a drug store. That will get rid of any oils from handling it, so that the primer can stick, with out any flaws in the finish. Once you get finished with this one, you will be a master at repainting anything else you acquire.
> 
> It's looking excellent so far...............


Thanks, isopropyl alcohol 90%, for cleaning and degreaser, let it dry and the primer.



Gustavo


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Yep, you got it right. If you plan on re-numbering it, I would suggest you might look at "Woodland Scenic's" Dry Transfer numbers, in the right font that you just rub onto the finished paint job. The dry transfers are a little tricky, but well worth using them, instead of trying to use a Rubber Stamp and ink. The rubber stamping takes lots of practice to get it exactly right.


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## rrbill (Mar 11, 2012)

Nice job of stripping your locomotive, Haggy-. In your first pic, it almost looks like it's made of silver. Looking forward to the painting process.


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## rrbill (Mar 11, 2012)

Further perusal of your first picture reveals just how much fine detail was cast into the boiler shell by Lionel. By the time primer and paint were applied to the shell sufficiently thick to resist the onslaught of young children's rough handling, a lot of the detail was lost.
Your stripped shell shows that detail well, something many of us have never seen.
Thanks for sharing your interesting pics.


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

Yup, really nice job!!! I've got the 2065 and you're inspiring me to restore her.


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

rrbill said:


> Further perusal of your first picture reveals just how much fine detail was cast into the boiler shell by Lionel. By the time primer and paint were applied to the shell sufficiently thick to resist the onslaught of young children's rough handling, a lot of the detail was lost.
> Your stripped shell shows that detail well, something many of us have never seen.
> Thanks for sharing your interesting pics.


Hi, I agree it's amazing the amount of detail of this loco, I don't want to loose it, as I'm been told, Lionel at this time it just applied a small amount of paint, no primer, and I'm very tented to proceed this way, I'm not seeking perfection, just originality. Modern paints can resist corrosion without primer, so will see.


Gustavo


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

Wood said:


> Yup, really nice job!!! I've got the 2065 and you're inspiring me to restore her.



I would advice you to do it if your loco is in really bad shape or re painted like mine, if has scratches and dents but is in his original state I would leave it like this, it's his history. Off course is my personal opinion.



Gustavo


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

haggy38 said:


> Hi, I agree it's amazing the amount of detail of this loco, I don't want to loose it, as I'm been told, Lionel at this time it just applied a small amount of paint, no primer, and I'm very tented to proceed this way, I'm not seeking perfection, just originality. Modern paints can resist corrosion without primer, so will see.
> 
> 
> Gustavo


In spite of that, I learned to use a good primer: I prefer Rustoleum gray, but that is just me. 

The first time I stripped and repainted an old cast loco, I also tried to go the no-primer route and worked to keep my paint to a thin layer to preserve all that detail. But in addition to the detail I wanted to preserve, the raw castings, at least the three I eventually did, all had slightly rough patches and micro-imperfecions that the primer glosses over and smoothes out. Without primer, the result looked like it had a skin rash in places. And even paint designed as primer and paint in one (Rustoleum 2X ratle cans) doesn't adhere as well and dry as smoothly without a primer.

I've learned to always use at least a thing primer coat, and let if dry and harden for two days first.

However, it is worth trying without primer if you want, because there is not much to lose: paint it without and let that dry for a day of two. If you don't like it, being new paint it will strip off overnight and you are no worse for it except for the loss of a few days time.


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

Lee Willis said:


> In spite of that, I learned to use a good primer: I prefer Rustoleum gray, but that is just me.
> 
> The first time I stripped and repainted an old cast loco, I also tried to go the no-primer route and worked to keep my paint to a thin layer to preserve all that detail. But in addition to the detail I wanted to preserve, the raw castings, at least the three I eventually did, all had slightly rough patches and micro-imperfecions that the primer glosses over and smoothes out. Without primer, the result looked like it had a skin rash in places. And even paint designed as primer and paint in one (Rustoleum 2X ratle cans) doesn't adhere as well and dry as smoothly without a primer.
> 
> ...



I'm still undecided, but it seems primer is the way to go, I've red a lot of restorations here and all of them used primer, regarding the paint brand I got to stick what I can find locally in Bogota. Thanks


Gustavo


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

> Gustavo posted: I would leave it like this, it's his history.


Nice point. For me it is the modeling effort that intrigues my love of this hobby. I have never done a complete engine restoration. I'd like to try it and you have led the way with this great post of yours and all of the information added by the members. 

Besides, it will be one more layer of history for my hardworking 2065.


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

Wood said:


> Nice point. For me it is the modeling effort that intrigues my love of this hobby. I have never done a complete engine restoration. I'd like to try it and you have led the way with this great post of yours and all of the information added by the members.
> 
> Besides, it will be one more layer of history for my hardworking 2065.


If you want to do the restoration, this is the he best place to find help, looking forward your resto.


Gustavo


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

Hi guys,


Finally I was able to find decent paint, Rust Oleum, tomorrow I will start with the he primer, a very thin layers, I don't wa t to loose the details.


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

Re wiring the loco.


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

rrbill said:


> By the time primer and paint were applied to the shell sufficiently thick to resist the onslaught of young children's rough handling, a lot of the detail was lost.


Upon more thought, a more general comment. While I am not arguing with you (because you are right, there is a large amount of detail cast in), the effect of seeing the shiny, unpainted boiler shell and the impression there is a lot of detail hidden by the paint may be a bit of an optical illusion. 

What I mean is that most of that detail is there even after the loco is painted, but it does no leap out at you as it does when it is unpainted. To see this effect well, study photos of Lionel's "pilot locomotives" - the unpainted versions of its big Legacy steamers that it offers from time to time. They come new with shiny castings and brass bits added, and no paint. At first glance, you go "WOW - LOOK AT THAT DETAIL" -- it looks like there is so much _more _.

And yet there isn't: it is all there on the painted ones. It's just that a uniformly black paint, particularly if flat or satin, tends to make it less obvious - blending it all together a bit so you don't notice it as much.


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## WildcatRR (Jul 28, 2013)

*2037*

Lee you hit the spike right on the head. I've repainted many engines over the years with great results and little loss of details ( much trial and error to learn what works and what does not ) but once you find what does work projects become much easier to complete. Once the train is running on the track the eye doesn't see much detail anyway. I use Krylon primer and paint. Krylon products dry quickly and are durable. No matter how thick you apply paint to make it durable will it withstand very rough handling, you still will get nicks and marks sooner or later unless you use baked on enamel paint which is messy and a general pain in the patoot. I enjoy taking basket case engines and bringing them back to presentable condition. It makes me happy and the engine is happy with it's new set of duds so to speak.


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

Ok guys, primer is done and I can see all the details, two light layers and last one a little bit heavy, so far so good, I will let it dry for 24h and then comes the real thing, 3 layers of Black satin so will see the results.


Gustavo


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

Wow... Nice job. The detail still looks awesome.


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Now you know the ins & outs of restoring the finish to a beat up engine. From the strip, and prime coat, the finished product will look fantastic. The one major thing to the painting, is using the same brand of primer & paint, and don't mix brands. Kudos so far!!!!


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

Thanks guys, the details still present and yes Im using the same brand Rust Oleum, very nice cover and fast dry time.


Gustavo


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

That is looking nice! Wow.


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

Lee Willis said:


> That is looking nice! Wow.


Thanks Lee.



Gustavo


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Lookin' good, I'll bet the finished product will look great.


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

Its finished!! Two light layers and one heavy, the result is astonishing, so happy I will try to post photos tonight, paint still fresh but look what arrived today at home! The untouched and mint condition MARX TRAIN SET #52290, definitely is not a Lionel complexity and high quality but its a rail warrior!!





Gustavo


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

......And the finished paint job, very satisfied and can see all the details!!


Thanks guys for your help and tips.


Gustavo


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

Excellent work. Git her runnin....


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

Wood said:


> Excellent work. Git her runnin....


Thanks Wood, by no means Im professional or amateur painter, actually this is the second time I used a rattle can, so if I can do it any one can, just fallow the steps of the guys helped me here.


Gustavo


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Well the "Poppa", should be very proud of his newly restored child!!! Gustavo, you did an excellent job and should be very proud of what you were able to accomplish. It just took a little nudge from this end. I bet you can't wait to do another??

Super Super finish!!!!


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

teledoc said:


> Well the "Poppa", should be very proud of his newly restored child!!! Gustavo, you did an excellent job and should be very proud of what you were able to accomplish. It just took a little nudge from this end. I bet you can't wait to do another??
> 
> Super Super finish!!!!


Thanks Teledoc for your help, you are part of this success, I really don't like to restore any vintage toys or trains unless in necessary like this case, preserve is very important. Im waiting for smoke unit parts and thats it, as soon I get all done I will post a video.

My next project is to find a nice and not that expensive Lionel Standard Gauge Train, I really want one but they are so rare and expensive that I have to wait and save money.


Gustavo


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

The paint job looks really good. First rate. The Marx loco is nice, too. They were good runners. I had one when I was a kid.


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

Haggy, The standard gauge will be something to take time to find, but after the present work completed (paint job), you know you don't need to find a perfect example, and restore a another paint job. Have fun in your search.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Looks great, slap some numbers on it and it's ready to go!


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Looks great, slap some numbers on it and it's ready to go!


Thanks John, the numbers have to wait, I need to think what method to choose, either way Im in Bogota and is not going to be an easy task.



Gustavo


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

teledoc said:


> Haggy, The standard gauge will be something to take time to find, but after the present work completed (paint job), you know you don't need to find a perfect example, and restore a another paint job. Have fun in your search.


Hope to find a nice set, included the original boxes, between usd$500 - 650, thats the budget allowed from my girlfriend hahahahaha!!


Gustavo


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

haggy38 said:


> Thanks guys, the details still present and yes Im using the same brand Rust Oleum, very nice cover and fast dry time.
> 
> 
> Gustavo


Nice job. :smilie_daumenpos:

I don't like the nozzles that Rustoleum (and others) are putting on their rattle cans.
It sprays too heavy! And you can't clean the nozzle after you use it anymore.
We talked about this before, last time I delivered them a load of chemicals I commented to them about the new nozzles.
They told me that some were complaining about not being able to spray with the can upside down that is why they made them.
I told them to offer both nozzles the old ones and the new ones.

One thing good is that I am going to be spray painting some of the underside of my pickup truck soon and the upside down spray painting can will come in handy.
But for the train painting I would like the old styled nozzle.

What are you going to use for the numbers?


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

big ed said:


> Nice job. :smilie_daumenpos:
> 
> I don't like the nozzles that Rustoleum (and others) are putting on their rattle cans.
> It sprays too heavy! And you can't clean the nozzle after you use it anymore.
> ...



Hi Ed,

Rust oleum worked for me pretty well, I controlled the amount of paint with distance and I was able to paint upside down without any problems. Regarding the numbers I'm very incline to use rubber stamp, it seem easy, I'm a beginner so hope this work.


Gustavo


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

haggy38 said:


> As a vintage toy collector,* I don't like to alter any toy, even if is in bad shape*, but with this 2037, I will re do it, just because it has a horrible unoriginal finished.




Something that is in bad shape, when you paint it your still saving it from the trash heap. 
Alter it? 
This one was actually sitting in the dump pile in a landfill. 
I used Rustoleum on this,
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=7467

One of these years I am going to do an ALIEN GREEN on something like this.
I have been saying that for a long time, I might take one of my cheap plastic scout locomotive's and do it. And it will have to be glow in the dark paint.:thumbsup:
I do already have some glow in the dark Aliens to operate it.


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

big ed said:


> Something that is in bad shape, when you paint it your still saving it from the trash heap.
> Alter it?
> This one was actually sitting in the dump pile in a landfill.
> I used Rustoleum on this,
> ...



What a beautiful restoration, the color schemes are amazing!! I agree with you, I read in some vintage toys books that between 60 -80% of these toys were discarded, recycled or they are in the trash right now, pity. Fortunately still exist people that appreciate, love them and take care this Vintage toys and trains, for preservation and the future generation can admire what a real toy is.





Gustavo


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## Trent Bishop (Jun 8, 2015)

Nice rare set.Especially the maroon and terra cotta passenger cars.


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## Trent Bishop (Jun 8, 2015)

Just a bit of info on the set.Set no 178.Sold 1932.Consist of 259 locne 529 passenger car.One 530 observation and 259t tender.Also the 259 was only released for 1932 only.also check to see if the word gauge is spelled wrong on the third rail pickup.Again a very rare set.


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

Trent Bishop said:


> Just a bit of info on the set.Set no 178.Sold 1932.Consist of 259 locne 529 passenger car.One 530 observation and 259t tender.Also the 259 was only released for 1932 only.also check to see if the word gauge is spelled wrong on the third rail pickup.Again a very rare set.


Thanks I feel pretty lucky with this set, I bought it from eBay for usd$100 which I think is a bargain, this one has the correct version of O gauge instead O guace unfortunately, but is a piece of American history.


Gustavo


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## Trent Bishop (Jun 8, 2015)

Yes great history.Getting that set for that price is a great bargain.Hope you didn't get burned on shipping.Being from Canada shipping right now is a kill.I have a 252 electric outllne set from !927 in the same maroon and terra cotta as your passanger cars.This is another rare set.I traded a postwar 675 engine and cars around 1984 for a box of prewar trains and track to get it.History indeed!


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## haggy38 (Jul 18, 2015)

Trent Bishop said:


> Yes great history.Getting that set for that price is a great bargain.Hope you didn't get burned on shipping.Being from Canada shipping right now is a kill.I have a 252 electric outllne set from !927 in the same maroon and terra cotta as your passanger cars.This is another rare set.I traded a postwar 675 engine and cars around 1984 for a box of prewar trains and track to get it.History indeed!



Actually was pretty cheap usd$25, I have a shipping company in Miami and they charged me just another $25, so $50 is not that bad. Wow I would like to see this train!!



Gustavo


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## Trent Bishop (Jun 8, 2015)

Yes that is a deal for shipping.I only have a few picks of my collection.I will be taking more photos in a few weeks and hope to get them on here soon.


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