# Proto 2000 E6 couplers



## EricR (Sep 12, 2013)

Hello,
This is my first post here. I have a question about couplers on Proto 2000 E6s.

I have a cherry pair of L&N E6's that I'm working on. I'd like to fix that awful gaping hole in the front pilots and change the couplers to look more prototypical with scale head Kadee's. I want to run them back to back and be close coupled. Is this possible? What's the best way to do it? That swinging draft box is totally funky!

Thanks!


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## golfermd (Apr 19, 2013)

Some pictures would help. I don't have that locomotive, but maybe someone else here knows of it and which Kaydee couplers would do the trick.


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## oldmerc (May 12, 2014)

How close you can couple your Loco's will depend on what the smallest radius is on your layout . Again all forum folk like pictures .


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## Northern Route (May 12, 2014)

I drilled a hole in the draft gear of my E units and PA locos and installed a short screw and tightened it to press against the frame to prevent draft get from moving.


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## EricR (Sep 12, 2013)

Thanks for the responses! 

Here's a few photos of what I'm dealing with. I don't have a layout yet. These are just display models for now. However, just to give some perspective, the snap track is 28" radius. As you can see the distance between the two is pretty big. I'd like to close that up quite a bit. 

I think I'm going to have to do some custom work on those swinging draft arms. I'd like to hear if there's any other options out there before I start cutting, thou. 

Also, take a look at the huge hole in the pilot. Yikes! It's really ugly. They came if two pilots - the open pilot and a solid pilot. There is also two pilot doors and can be put in the open pilot. I think I'll trim down the doors just enough for the coupler to poke through. Then put couple cut bars and maybe some hoses to finish it off. 

I'm totally new to model train detailing so, any help is greatly appreciated! Even when it comes to detailing parts. Is Details West pretty much the "go to" for this kind of stuff?

Thanks guys!


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

Try Kadee.com. There I found direction to make Athearn PA's, FA's, EMD E/F units close couple. The added diaphragms actually made contact.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I don't know that E6 model. But, in your pic, it looks like the front
coupler is truck mounted. If that is true, that is the
reason the pilot opening is so big. The loco would derail on
a curve if the coupler cannot swing freely.

Don


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## JNXT 7707 (May 5, 2013)

Don - it does appear that way in the photo, but the coupler box is indeed mounted to the frame, not the truck.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

That's great. Makes it possible to close up some of that
vacant real estate in the pilot.

Don


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## EricR (Sep 12, 2013)

Here's a little update -

I was out of town for a few days and I'm just now getting back to it. I made some great progress on getting them close coupled. 

Basically, I had to modify the coupler brackets by drilling the coupler screw hole as far back as possible and trimming the end back accordingly. I used a Kadee #153 scale whisker coupler in a #252 gear box. I think they turned out pretty nice. 

The photos are taken with the two units pulled apart so that the couplers have pressure on them. There's just a tiny gap between them. They look A LOT better, now!! 

Now, on to the front couplers and the pilots.... Ugh...


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## JNXT 7707 (May 5, 2013)

Great job, Eric - thanks for the update. Those are beautiful E-units and look much better now. Looking forward to seeing your progress on the front couplers/pilots.


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

I wonder if they were originally going to mount the front coupler on the truck....that would be the reason for making that hole in the front pilot so wide. 

Maybe they decided to change the mount for the coupler to the frame, and they already had the tooling for the body, and didn't change it to save money on the re-tooling......?

We will likely never find out for sure....


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Wow. Your coupler modifications really make those E guys
stand out. What radius curves will they negotiate with
your changes?

Don


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## lmackattack (Oct 21, 2010)

I just picked up the same units in Santa fe. I was shocked to see how far apart the units are even with short shanks installed.

Was this a simple install or did you have to drill and tap for the new draft boxes?


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## JNXT 7707 (May 5, 2013)

lmackattack said:


> I just picked up the same units in Santa fe. I was shocked to see how far apart the units are even with short shanks installed.
> 
> Was this a simple install or did you have to drill and tap for the new draft boxes?


I believe EricR drilled new holes for the couplers: 
_"Basically, I had to modify the coupler brackets by drilling the coupler screw hole as far back as possible and trimming the end back accordingly. I used a Kadee #153 scale whisker coupler in a #252 gear box. I think they turned out pretty nice." _


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## Northern Route (May 12, 2014)

I was wondering if have done anything to the front coupler. I just got my SF E6s out of the box. I locked the coupler bracket so it does not swing. As for the gaping hole, I plan to use the pilot with the closed door and cut out the door. The problem is the coupler box sticks out a mile past the pilot.


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## EricR (Sep 12, 2013)

Hello Guys,
I apologize for not updating this sooner. 
Here's a few photos of the modifications to the front coupler and the pilot.
It's a big difference!


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## lmackattack (Oct 21, 2010)

I got the kadee conversion installed.
it came out good but I really disliked how proto 2000 did not think the coupler issue thry. The loco has nice details then they drop the ball on how far apart the units couple.


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

They do that because they know that people with tight radiuses will want to buy and run their locomotives, and they won't corner properly on tight radiuses when they are coupled too closely.....so I don't know if you could fairly call it "dropping the ball".....


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## lmackattack (Oct 21, 2010)

What I'm trying to say is that in past Proto has made efforts so an out of the box loco can be close coupled. I think it was their Alco FA that you could get the diaphrams to touch. Or it had 2 coupler positions . Even if they did not it was very close or short shank Kadees was all it took. These E units were a mile away. Almost 1/2" like they didn't even consider this. For a loco as highly detailed as it is they did not think it thru when they designed it. The conversion from kadee works but the way they had to do it is a little to be desired because of what proto gave them to work with.

Just my .02


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## lmackattack (Oct 21, 2010)

EricR said:


> Hello Guys,
> I apologize for not updating this sooner.
> Here's a few photos of the modifications to the front coupler and the pilot.
> It's a big difference!
> ...


The modification to the pilot looks great. It now looks as it should. Nice job and thanks for the photos.
I will need to do this on my rear facing unit as It too is extended way to far for my liking. For now i just removed the coupler on the lead engine and installed the optional lower nose pice. I noticed that proto E units had 2 different style of frames. Early and later versions. Mine were of the later and have plastic brackets that pivot and hold the coupler pocket.


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