# My Layout: Croxton Terminal on 48" X 89.5" plywood



## igmuska

Wal-Mart was all out of board stretchers, so I couldn't use the original plan calling for 48" X 96" (4'X8') plywood. The other major problem with this layout is that the upper leg is at the exact edge of the board which will make ballasting very difficult. When Wal-Mart restocks their board stretchers, I'll stretch the board out another 6 inches for ballasting.


----------



## tjcruiser

Just a heads up ...

For some strange reason, a standard sheet of MDF (medium density fiberboard) is 49"x97" ... an extra inch all around, if you need it.

TJ


----------



## igmuska

*Before and After: Scenicking*

*Before:*









*After:*


----------



## tankist

green changes everything, isn't it


----------



## igmuska

And to think, just a few weeks ago, I was running on bare board but really had no choice as we were planning on moving the layout down two stories to the basement.
Compared to the previous photo sequence, my layout is getting more colorful than it was a couple of weeks ago. I even have a hot pink covered hopper rolling around in there. Excellent.





































Of course, my layout would be totally incomplete without a full supply of pot toppers (one topper equals three hours of conditioning, preparation, watching it vanish, then installation of few choice pieces.)


----------



## Reckers

I give up---what's a pot topper???


----------



## igmuska

Reckers said:


> I give up---what's a pot topper???


Pot toppers are a cheap alternative to Silflor grass scenery; originally they are used for seating fake flowers in decorative flower pots.


----------



## igmuska

A couple of days ago I just got the book Track Planning for Realistic Operation and now I really want to change my layout. I would like to have a yard along with larger radius curves and smoother turnouts.
I can widen the original board to 5 1/2 feet, keeping the original length 89 1/2 inches but add another 4 foot by 8 foot. This addition should be sized to make it so that I won't have to reach across the board. The main problem is that I don't have access to width only the length which will be adjacent to the furnace and water heater.
Anyone have any suggestions and has anyone else ran into similar requirement?


----------



## tankist

i sure wish i had that book when i was developing my layout.

without access on all 4 sides you will need to have access hole of sort, you really need that reach.
as for smoother turnout i will recommend getting away from atlas. i use peco and things are much smoother. turnouts are shorter, will allow for bit denser yard. even smallest setrack @17.5! radius allows for long 6axle euipment like SD40 without trouble (althoguh looking very funny at it). expencive however... so before you buy plan your layout with some sort of tool (ie anyrail)


----------



## igmuska

I was thinking about changing over to Peco. I was also thinking that in the near future I would like to invest in the Fast Track system for making my own turnouts and double slips. After reading Armstrong's book, I even changed my mind about trying to construct a double track layout, keeping instead to a single track with passing sidings here and there. 
I guess it was a good thing though that I did take the time to build the Croxton Terminal as that was a great learning experience, teaching me about clogging the mainline, DC wiring, ballasting, scenery, Kadee #5 & #148 couplers, uncoupling ramps, soldering and now with the Armstrong book, the physics and mathematics that goes along with passing through that barrier from the roundy round to realistic operation.
As for the Croxton Terminal, during the time from the last sequence of photos, while I was thinking about improving the layout, I was also building trees and a few more houses. I'll post that shortly.
But thanks and if anyone can point me into the right direction cost effectively and design-wise (mainly links) you'll always have my gratitude.


----------



## igmuska

Future Croxton Boulevard









Ice Cream Shop donated by Mr. Robbie Raabe









Another perspective of Croxton Boulevard


----------



## Reckers

Igmuska, that's a fine looking layout---I love the swimming pool and the hot-pink car! You really have a lot of eye-catchers! Are pot-toppers those green foam blocks florists use? I'm still not clear on how you are using them.


----------



## igmuska

Reckers said:


> Igmuska, that's a fine looking layout---I love the swimming pool and the hot-pink car! You really have a lot of eye-catchers! Are pot-toppers those green foam blocks florists use? I'm still not clear on how you are using them.


A close view of Michael's Pot Toppers, an inexpensive alternative to Silflor grass mats, except that as the photo shows, they'll be good for small irregular areas as it is difficult cut them without losing their base (the brownish cork looking material under the grass).









And my wife's pink car, prevents or decreases the "Why did you buy another [fill in the blanks], don't you have enough already?" syndrome.


----------



## tjcruiser

Wow ... that pink is BRIGHT. Great thinking in the "dial down the wife department", though!

Where'd ya' get those greenhouses? I like 'em!

TJ


----------



## igmuska

tjcruiser said:


> Wow ... that pink is BRIGHT. Great thinking in the "dial down the wife department", though!
> 
> Where'd ya' get those greenhouses? I like 'em!
> 
> TJ


I still have to finish painting the window supports silver and add the foam and fake foam flower dust.










Faller 213, I think they still sell them on Walthers


----------



## tjcruiser

Thanks! Those are really, really nice!


----------



## igmuska

*Slow rolling, track ballasting*

*Board Stretcher UPS mode*
Just ordered a Wal-mart board stretcher, should be here in a couple of days so I can continue ballasting right hand side of layout.










*When Grey Blend is not Gray Blend?*
After applying some ballast, I noticed that there are some very distinct shades of grey blend ballast. For the first run, I used grey blend ballast from a bag; the current application comes from a shaker. Hopefully it fades but again the color variation is so minute, that I don't think anyone will notice while the trains are running.










*BN drivers getting some pistachio soft serve*


----------



## igmuska

*90% Ballasting Complete*

*Featuring Rapido Caboose*
That caboose sure brings out the highlights of the ballast project.










*The Main Ballast Tool*
1 1/2 inch sponge brush does magic, making this ballasting job so much more easier than using a regular 1 inch paint brush (the bristles kept scattering the ballast all over the place).










*A Close-Up of a Ballast Job Well Done*
Now to start working on the 8 turnouts and wiring.










*Addendum*
Now that I think I have the knack for this most awesome hobby, once I am finished with the scenery and structures, I am going to shred it and start on my next layout, bigger, foam foundation, improved freight yard and of course, more TREES and DCC!


----------



## tankist

hmm it is interesting idea to use that foam thingy instead of brush. will have to try it


----------



## igmuska

When I started my first attempt at ballasting my track, using a brush, I thought that it would never end. Then I looked at the rest of my layout and became slightly dismayed over the prospect of having to bristle brush the ballast.
But when I tried the foam brush, knocking out a yard of track in less time (15 minutes) than it took me to do three yards (nearly 4 hours).
Now I can't wait for the next layout. I know how much ballast, track and cork.
As for weathering the track, if you look closely at the last photo, you see some very fine gray dust which I feel might present a slight problem as it really doesn't go anywhere upon wet watering it. In a way, I feel that hand painting might be better in this because of the dust or brushing it off might work. As I don't have an airbrush, hand-painting is the only way right now.


----------



## tankist

then you definetly should have painted everything (with wider brush) before ballast or even before install...
i guess you will get to it on your next layout


----------



## igmuska

*Excellent idea*



tankist said:


> then you definetly should have painted everything (with wider brush) before ballast or even before install...
> i guess you will get to it on your next layout


Today I'll experiment with a 2 foot section of track, complete with ballasting and weathering applied. I want to see how the wet water (50/50 isopropyl water mix) interacts with painted ties. I like the Liquitex acrylic (Raw Umber) but I also have Floquil acrylic (Rail Brown) and Dullcote.
This will also make a great photo diorama for cataloging my rolling stock and future locomotives as well as for experimenting and practicing scenery techniques.


----------



## tankist

wet water mix that i use is just water with a drop of dish soap.


----------



## igmuska

*Upped it up a notch*

Just one look, it's all it took, just one look....

*Athearn SD40 BNSF*










Just have to enjoy that swoosh!

My LHS recommended that I go this way with a SD40, rather than the BNSF SD40-2 he showed me. As he was reaching for this to show me, he said the body was different and wouldn't run on my 18" radius track. Although I did mention that if that was the case, then I would probably just keep on the side until my next layout. During the same time I told him that I had bought several SD45's from him, then I see it and said OK, I want THAT!

Just one question, though, I know the scoop about Athearn SD40-2 locos not liking 18" radius curves, is the same true for KATO SD40-2's? I've read they'll run on 18" radius curves.


----------



## igmuska

tankist said:


> wet water mix that i use is just water with a drop of dish soap.


I'll have to try that as the wet water mix I'm using now requires that I also use a respirator.


----------



## igmuska

*Added more to the layout*

*Every town needs a water tower*
Every year there'd be bloomers, tennis shoes and other odd things hanging off our water tower the day after homecoming, sort of a tradition.










*Every town also needs a grain elevator*
Almost a splitting image of the grain elevator back home.










*My SD45 MILW #8 isn't lonely anymore*
I used to see these type of cabooses back home long ago.


----------



## tankist

congrads. my athearn SD40 run well enough through 17.5R of peco setrack diverging curve at any speed. looked pretty silly but went through without derailing. bli sd40-2 and atlas dash8 negotiates said turnout as well. might have to dowith the fact i gave the tighter puhill curve a bit of super-elevation as engines really tried to throw the flange over the rail.

never had a Kato.


----------



## igmuska

*Walthers Cornerstone Grain Elevator*

Talk about an extreme build...I almost decided to use CA. The other day while buying some flat white rattle can, I saw that they were selling Testor's liquid plastic cement for 99 cents. At that price I couldn't resist, never know when I might need it and sure enough I needed it for this build. My tube cement kept drying up before I could mate the pieces.

The other issue I ran into was that the model has very little in substantial gluing points. The outbuildings were difficult to attach to the main elevator. There are no pins or holes. But I got it up and that is good enough.

Materials and tools:
Liquid plastic cement
Flat white enamel
Haze Grey
Xuron Shears

I needed a break from painting the rails ands ties; I am almost finished, needing only to paint another 6 feet.


----------



## tjcruiser

IGM,

Grain elevator looks pristine ... but perhaps a bit too pristine? Do you plan on adding a bit of weathering, touches of dirt / rust at all? Not being critical here ... only thinking to myself out loud.

Thanks for sharing,

TJ


----------



## igmuska

tjcruiser said:


> IGM,
> 
> Grain elevator looks pristine ... but perhaps a bit too pristine? Do you plan on adding a bit of weathering, touches of dirt / rust at all? Not being critical here ... only thinking to myself out loud.
> 
> Thanks for sharing,
> 
> TJ


I was thinking the same. Rust fading down from the pipes, rust fading down the roof eaves...I really don't care for that roof enclosure but it makes this model look busy. The other part is that there is only one place left on my layout for this but it'll look good there. The elevator has such a large footprint.

Any recommendations of the colors for weathering this structure?


----------



## tjcruiser

IGM,

No color recommendations on my part ... I've never fiddled with the weathering thing. That said, I'd think anything rust-oriented (light streaks, a few darker dabs ... but just soft highlights here and there) would add some extra life to the building.

Cheers,

TJ


----------



## igmuska

Oh no! Now you tell me...I used Floquil enamels "Rust" for this part and this side. I was thinking that under the windows, I'd drybrush some black, not too faint but not too dark to simulate the window sill debris seeping down.

Hosted on Fotki

But I think weathering will add another factor of WOW to my layout.

I started making errors so I have to take a break for a bit. I'll never work on my layout right after coming back from work. Right now too sun baked to think right.

I also have some cheap acrylic pastels chalks from Michaels or CVS. Those are going to be used to simulate the structures contact with the ground. To powder them I use half of a tea strainer ball, making it cheaper than using a drywall sanding screen. These are shown below:


----------



## tjcruiser

I think you are 100% on the right track ... looks great to me!

TJ


----------



## igmuska

*More painting on Grain Elevator*

I couldn't just let it go, I had to change the colors again. Haze Grey was too shiny with a blue sheen that just didn't look right. I hand-painted the covered sections to Dark Gull Grey and rattle-canned the silos flat grey.
After looking at this photo, I might just re-do the wracked glue job; Testor's Liquid Plastic Cement is not strong enough for stresses caused by gravity. I'll use Plastruct's Plastic Weld and my respirator as the fumes are intense. My decal also seems to be slightly off, tilting downward by a degree or so, but only I'd notice something like that. I used Micro-sol and Micro-set. Not too bad though, since the last time applied decals was to several model airplanes over 35 years ago.
Eventually I'll get it right.

Hosted on Fotki


----------



## igmuska

*Antoher Grain Elevator*

I had to get the Walthers Cornerstone Series Valley Growers Association Steel Grain Elevator after seeing it back in stock.










Eventually I'll decal, and weather it, then apply some dullcote to tone down the shine. I wanted to leave it primer gray but that didn't look right. I painted it Tamiya Flat Aluminum as I think any shade of gray is as shiny as some of the grain elevators I've out on the Great Plains.

Question: Why do they paint the prairie skyscrapers silver?


----------



## Big Ed

:thumbsup:Your layout is looking great!:thumbsup:

Don't know about the color question. 
I have seen a few painted barn red.


----------



## igmuska

big ed said:


> :thumbsup:Your layout is looking great!:thumbsup:
> 
> Don't know about the color question.
> I have seen a few painted barn red.


I asked that question once, and was told that they add metal shavings to the paint to make the entire elevator a lightning rod. They also want to keep the grain dust from getting too hot and more explosive.


----------



## Big Ed

igmuska said:


> I asked that question once, and was told that they add metal shavings to the paint to make the entire elevator a lightning rod. They also want to keep the grain dust from getting too hot and more explosive.



You would think it would be easier to just install some quality lighting rods.
To keep it cooler nothing beats white.

Thats what the government makes us paint all of the chemical tanks now.
At least here in NJ.


----------



## igmuska

*More layout update photos*

*Every town needs a gas station*
Eventually I'll have to get some vehicles but decided not to right now, they'd only vanish under the mess.

Hosted on Fotki










*Bird's eye views*










I can also see the streets and several spots for more structures. Maybe some chain link fencing, a church and a school. I do want a barn, silo and a farm house.

I built it all backwards but when I redo it, at least I'll know how to make my layout more prototypical


----------



## Reckers

Very nice layout! If you want a quick way of weathering your buildings, I understand many people use a wash made of india ink diluted with water or alcohol. The idea is that it stains the crevices the way dirt normally would. If you want a really good site to explore that topic, try this one: http://ogaugerr.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/frm/f/3681097934


----------



## tjcruiser

IGM,

Excellent progress ... layout looks great. I hope those "small town residents" are paying their taxes on time to their "creator"!

Cheers,

TJ


----------



## igmuska

tjcruiser said:


> IGM,
> 
> Excellent progress ... layout looks great. I hope those "small town residents" are paying their taxes on time to their "creator"!
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> TJ


To pray taxes, they need a place to pray, hence:










I like that Atlas Church, assembling it was fun, it uses screws to hold the roof together while the steeple reminds me of a stack of cards, one section stacked upon of the bottom section and so on. I got it at my LHS for $10.99; less than half of list price.


----------



## tankist

like your elevator.
the track with the crane - container unloading area? paved and equipped will make a neat scene


----------



## igmuska

tankist said:


> like your elevator.
> the track with the crane - container unloading area? paved and equipped will make a neat scene


Thanks, Tankist, I wanted that for ages now. The downside on it was that is a missing parts discount; it didn't have the foundation for the main elevator. But it is effective in hiding those sharp curves.
I was thinking about either doing what you recommend, making an intermodal shipping area in that blank spot behind the church across the tracks. Probably some sort of three story track-side warehouse pushed as close to the curve as I can. Then make a flat surface for an intermodal crane. The difficulty is that the near track happens also to be my lead track out of that area.
I was also thinking that keeping with the grain theme, I could put up a barn, a silo and a cool looking farmhouse along with the smaller outbuildings. The only downside on the farm is that it wouldn't hide the tracks surrounding it very well.


----------

