# Help fixing this 1963 634 NW2 Switcher



## sporadic (Nov 27, 2012)

Thread number two, I'm on a roll! I'm in the process of pulling all my old trains out and fixing them up (background info here: http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=15032). Next on my list is this gutted 634 Switcher which was handed down to me from my brother many years ago. From what I gather looking here - http://www.tandem-associates.com/lionel/lionel_trains_634_diesel.htm and http://www.postwarlionel.com/cgi-bin/postwar?ITEM=634 it is the rarer 1963 / Version A. Unfortunately though, the shell has a nice chunk missing from the front where it screws to the chassis. 

To get me started, does anyone have one they could remove the shell on and snap a picture? I'd like to know what all is missing before I get started on it. I have a bag of parts as well including an E-Unit in it, but not sure it goes to this engine. I would assume its covered in the Greenberg manual, but don't have my copy yet.

Secondly, any recommendations on what to do with the front where its broken? The rest of the shell seems to be in decent shape and I really like the color scheme. Would anything ever be stored up there on a real one so i could cover it up?

Thanks!
-shelby


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## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

I can't see the damage but, if it's on the radiator, you could always model a winterization tarp on it.


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## sporadic (Nov 27, 2012)

shaygetz said:


> I can't see the damage but, if it's on the radiator, you could always model a winterization tarp on it.


It's below the radiator were the the screw hole should be. Here's the full size picture which shows it better: http://www.flickr.com/photos/sporadic/8232583234/sizes/o/in/set-72157632131035028. I've attached a cropped one as well. I like the tarp idea.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

All I have is a 600MKT.











I have a lower three position e unit but yours is suppose to be a two.











This is similiar with a horn









A two speed e unit in place. The 216 ALco has this set up.










I suggest getting the Greenberg manual for servicing Lionel Trains.


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## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

I see now...you could carefully cut and shape a piece of thick styrene, like from a building kit, and fit it in there. Then it should be a fairly easy to touch it up, reinforce it a bit, then run the mounting screw thru it. While it still won't be cherry, it will still retain the look of the original model.:thumbsup:


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## sporadic (Nov 27, 2012)

T-Man said:


> I suggest getting the Greenberg manual for servicing Lionel Trains.


Thanks for the pics T-Man! I put in a request with Mrs. Claus, hopefully she comes through


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## BigAl56 (Dec 14, 2011)

This job is similar to fixing the hole my Wife made in the drywall over the summer. (don't ask ).To fix the chip in the shell try cutting a patch piece of styrene plastic that is a close fit. Glue a piece of material accross the opening on the inside to hold the styrene patch in place. Next carefully fill in the gaps with some plastic putty. Carefully smooth it out and touch up with model paint.

You should be able to find the materials you need at a hobby shop that sells a lot of model kits.

Good Luck, AR.


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## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

sporadic said:


> Thanks for the pics T-Man! I put in a request with Mrs. Claus, hopefully she comes through


I have that book, there's a few on Amazon... http://www.amazon.com/Operating-0-2...52&sr=8-2&keywords=operating+o+and+o27+trains


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

It is a large hole. To fix tape over the end and sit it down. Use two part epoxy( JB Weld) and layer it from the iside and let set. It will hold. Just sand to a good thickness on the inside. The outside should need very little. Just touch up with some acrylic paint.

This is a quick example inside










outside


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

For a really large section, I'd probably consider backing it with something like stiff plastic, just to add strength to the repair. The JB Weld is amazing stuff, for added strength, I recommend the standard and not the quick setting type.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

That is a common problem in that spot. 
Most tighten the screw too much. 
Do you have the piece that is broken off yet?


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## sporadic (Nov 27, 2012)

Thanks for the ideas everyone! Didn't even think about jb. I love that stuff! Cleaning up my prewar today for a little O27 around the kids tree but will try my hand with the jb repair later today. I don't have the piece that broke off unfortunately.
Thanks!


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## sporadic (Nov 27, 2012)

Didn't get around to do anything with it until this morning. I wasn't able to back it without re-working the mounting tab location so decided on a JB weld fill. Made some rigid forms on inside and out with popsicle sticks and aluminum foil, then filled with JB. Hopefully I tampered and packed it enough, but guess I'll know tomorrow! Given how much is missing from this switcher, maybe it would be a good candidate for some retrofits. Would be pretty sweet having a fan smoking switcher! Maybe convert it do DC and stick a MTH proto 2 kit and smoker in it?
-shelby


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You don't need DC for the PS/2 upgrade kit, PS/2, PS/3 runs on AC or DC. I run my PS/2 stuff with standard AC transformers.


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## sporadic (Nov 27, 2012)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> You don't need DC for the PS/2 upgrade kit, PS/2, PS/3 runs on AC or DC. I run my PS/2 stuff with standard AC transformers.


Oh, I meant converting to a DC can motor. I still plan on running my AC transformers.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

If you run TMCC, you can buy the ERR AC Commander that will handle the AC motor. Converting to DC may be more expense than it's worth.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Looks like a nice repair-in-the-works on the shell!


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## sporadic (Nov 27, 2012)

Here she is after taking the forms off. Now time for a little bit of filler, some sanding, locating the hole, and some paint! I'm pretty pleased with it so far. Thanks for the tip! What would you all recommend as a surface filler for blending the JB weld in with the plastic? Just bondo or something? And what about paint recommendations? I figure it'd be impossible to blend in a repair. Or would it?

As for the retrofits, I'm just brain storming. I don't have command stuff like TMCC or DCS yet (maybe in the future, undecided). Mainly just looking for smoke and sound (conventional) on a budget. Homebrew solutions would be excellent. Thanks!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Why not just continue the yellow striped pattern up to the grill?
It will match the rest of the body.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

This thread may have some answers. 

The Caboose Mod.

Bondo Scratch putty is handy for fine imperfections.

For paint of small repairs I go with craft acrylic paint. I mix up two or three colors to get a shade and paint. If you don't like it, try again.

I always epoxy thick along the mating edges to increase the surface contact area for strength. The only original thickness is required at the frame screw hole.

I am impressed with your mold. I just use tape.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

T-Man said:


> For paint of small repairs I go with craft acrylic paint. I mix up two or three colors to get a shade and paint. If you don't like it, try again.


I was just going to say the same thing ... T beat me to it ...

Pick up a few shades of dark blue at Michaels or similar ... you should be able to get pretty close with a few on-the-fly dabs of mixed color.

Repair looks great!

TJ


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