# Spade Connectors



## Single Driver Steam (Apr 22, 2016)

Hi all,

I recently bough spade connectors of varying sizes for different gauge wiring on my layout. While my initial research into these products indicated I could slide the end of a wire into the spade connector bottom, crimp that down, and that would keep the wire attached and in place, seeing the pieces in person suggests otherwise. 

The spade connector slot is a very hard metal that seems resistant to crimping. How then am I suppose to connect the ends of these wires to the spade connectors? I have zero experience and am looking to avoid any form of soldering, both due to my inexperience and to my lacking a ventilated garage/workspace to perform the soldering (small apartment).


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

Most hardware stores, and harbor freight sell spade connector crimping pliers. Soldering in an apartment is not a hazard. Even a small fan to keep the fumes out of your face is all you need.
Solder nowadays is leadless. Even at that, you would have to inhale a LOT of lead fumes to damage your brain. I worked in a GM battery plant that processed literally TONS of lead in liquid and oxide form. The lead oxide area was orange with lead dust. We had legal limits to blood content. I worked there for 15 years and not once did I ever exceed the limit, and I never wore the face mask. I was a mechanic, and worked in areas exposed to levels of lead dust the production people never came close to. We would come out of the lead oxide Barton pot room literally orange from lead dust. I've been retired from GM for 23 years, no side effects yet. 

Dan


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## gregc (Apr 25, 2015)

as mentioned, there are crimp tools for spade connectors. Some will argue that you can't just crimp, you must solder. But most commercial wiring uses the proper size wire for the spade connector and just crimps the wire in place.

since I most often do not have the proper wire size for the spade connector, soldering is best for me, even if it mean folding the wire over to fit into the spade connector.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

cheap wire stripping pliers often have the crimping tool built in to them ...
if you don't have these, a hardware store can help ..or ordinary pliers, not as good though


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I think part of your problem is that you have the wrong size spade connectors for the wires you are using. It looks like the wire diameter is significantly smaller than the hole in the connector.


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## jimben (Jun 27, 2018)

Most cheap crimpers that are part of a wire stripper are poor performers properly crimping the wire to the spade connector. I would solder the wire and connector after crimping using that style of crimper. One crimper that properly crimps the wire is a Thomas & Bets crimper & wire cutter. About $45 new, look for used on ebay. The T&B lasts forever so used is just fine.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

CTValleyRR said:


> I think part of your problem is that you have the wrong size spade connectors for the wires you are using. It looks like the wire diameter is significantly smaller than the hole in the connector.


I have had that problem when the exact size was not available and I needed one right then and there.

Cut enough insulation back to fold the exposed end in half and crimp as usual. It works in a pinch, but I wouldn't wire a whole project in that manner.


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## jimben (Jun 27, 2018)

CTValleyRR said:


> I think part of your problem is that you have the wrong size spade connectors for the wires you are using. It looks like the wire diameter is significantly smaller than the hole in the connector.


Simple solution to small wire & large connector. Simply strip wire twice as long and fold wire over to double the wire diameter in the crimp area.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

Where have I heard that before?


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

For spades without plastic I solder them in at the spade end.

My take on the thin wire is push it through the loop around the spade and back in then solder or crimp.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Panther said:


> Solder nowadays is leadless.


Au Contraire, the most popular solders still sold are 63/37 Tin-Lead and 60/40 Tin-Lead. The reason is simple, the characteristics of the lead-free solder is somewhat of a PITA for bench work. I had a couple pounds of the lead-free stuff, I gave it away and went back to my favored 63/37 solder.


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