# HO shelf layout 8x1 - layout discussion



## adibis (Sep 2, 2021)

Hey folks, 

Limited space and time - want to try something manageable and relatively simple. Would rather focus on attempting hand laying a turnout or two - scratch building a structure / etc. 

I've been reading whatever I could find on forums about shelf layouts and also watching any youtube content I can find. 

Kind of narrowed down to this layout - also tried it in train-player and I think it might work out. It's 8 feet by 1 foot. Each square is 6"x6". 

*Few questions*: Is this a good layout for operations? Am I missing any glaring / obvious issues? Any ideas on what and where my industries can go?

I am thinking of mostly background buildings on the left, a gravel/grain/coal type of industry where cars come out of a shed on the right back corner and something like beer/chemicals on right front.

Also considering a bridge (overhead for cars on left) OR a stream (train comes in on bridge).

Would really appreciate any help I can get


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

You’ll be happy to hear that I have a nearly identical shelf layout. The same size, except in N scale so the track is extended, 2-3 more spurs, and a double run around. Otherwise it’s identical. and mine has endless opportunities. Mine is rudimentary with only a couple structures (I’m more into HO).

One thing I don’t like about your proposed plan: the left side of the run around is a broad curve. Coupling & uncoupling on curves, even broad ones is tricky at best, more often impossible. I would consider swapping the broad curve for a turnout and adding a spur off the end. 
I’d also adjust the curvature of the spur at the rear right. Keeping the coupling/uncoupling area straight.

A brewery or chemical plant is interesting, but might be better suited/implied along the back. Although team tracks were more of a steam era thing, a team track or more modern trans-loading in the front is something I would suggest merits consideration. Both are “industries” to be spotted, even better; both can take any type of car, from tank to flat to gondolas.

One more thing to mull over is having the spur in the rear right serve two industries. This is actually common. The area immediately to the right of that turnout could accommodate a car, say at a loading dock. Obviously, that would block the end and access to the turnout, which adds operating interest… especially on days where that car at the center industry isn’t leaving. That means you have to move it to pick up the cars behind it, and then re-spot it at the dock.

I’ll go take some fresh photos of my N corridor & post them here shortly for you to compare etc. Baring in mind it’s N and fits twice as much.


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

The track in the middle with the flat cars represents a team track. The only structure that would have is a stone or concrete platform with a ramp at one end. Maybe a shed on one end or a “pavilion” type roof. Even livestock cars make sense sitting there. It allows for a nice variety of rolling stock.

One other thing to point out. Your plan indicates diesel, but you didn’t mention an era. If I may, I’d suggest using shorter cars, like 2 bay open hoppers if possible, 40ft tank cars or short “beer can” chemical cars. Shorter cars allows for a little larger locomotive in the same linear space. Alternatively, short cars with a short loco allows for a greater number of cars. Larger locos, or greater capacity, may be a distant horizon for you. But planning now on using short cars, versus 50-60ft cars, keeps that distant possibility viable rather than all but eliminate it because of rolling stock you’ve accumulated.

I’m presuming from what you’ve stated that this will be DC power. In the chance you’re planning it to be DCC, with only 5-6 turnouts, they could all be controlled via one stationary decoder. That can be pretty neat on small layouts when you utilize preset selectable “routes” such as point A to point D, point D to B, back to A, etc. At the push of a button (well, 3 buttons) it sets all the turnouts for that route accordingly. But, as fun as that is, DC is a lot simpler.


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## Manik (9 mo ago)

Hope that helps...


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## prrfan (Dec 19, 2014)

Manik said:


> Hope that helps...


 Beautiful! All nicely done.


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## Manik (9 mo ago)

Hope that helps too...
*Brett - A switching layout design*


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## adibis (Sep 2, 2021)

OilValleyRy said:


> You’ll be happy to hear that I have a nearly identical shelf layout. The same size, except in N scale so the track is extended, 2-3 more spurs, and a double run around. Otherwise it’s identical. and mine has endless opportunities. Mine is rudimentary with only a couple structures (I’m more into HO).
> 
> One thing I don’t like about your proposed plan: the left side of the run around is a broad curve. Coupling & uncoupling on curves, even broad ones is tricky at best, more often impossible. I would consider swapping the broad curve for a turnout and adding a spur off the end.
> I’d also adjust the curvature of the spur at the rear right. Keeping the coupling/uncoupling area straight.


Thanks a lot for the inputs. I tried my hand at a small 3x5 N scale DC layout but it's too small for me, I prefer the size of HO so moving to that as I get DCC stuff.

I will see about adding a turnout on bottom left - not sure yet. I will mostly nail track in so in case it's difficult to switch cards on a curve, I can rip it out and add the turnout.



OilValleyRy said:


> A brewery or chemical plant is interesting, but might be better suited/implied along the back. Although team tracks were more of a steam era thing, a team track or more modern trans-loading in the front is something I would suggest merits consideration. Both are “industries” to be spotted, even better; both can take any type of car, from tank to flat to gondolas.


Yeah, my thinking of adding brewery/paper mill/bottling plant type of buildings in background on left top. The bottom right I was not sure what to put there. Would transloading be something like a team track with a modern crane?



OilValleyRy said:


> One more thing to mull over is having the spur in the rear right serve two industries. This is actually common. The area immediately to the right of that turnout could accommodate a car, say at a loading dock. Obviously, that would block the end and access to the turnout, which adds operating interest… especially on days where that car at the center industry isn’t leaving. That means you have to move it to pick up the cars behind it, and then re-spot it at the dock.


I like this - even with 50 feet cars, that spur should handle 5 cars easily so splitting it into 2 smaller industries with 1 car each or 1 in front, 2 40' cars on the dead-end might give way more operating fun.


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## adibis (Sep 2, 2021)

Manik said:


> Hope that helps too...
> *Brett - A switching layout design*


Thanks a lot - one of the few cases where I actually see spur lengths!


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## adibis (Sep 2, 2021)

OilValleyRy said:


> One other thing to point out. Your plan indicates diesel, but you didn’t mention an era. If I may, I’d suggest using shorter cars, like 2 bay open hoppers if possible, 40ft tank cars or short “beer can” chemical cars. Shorter cars allows for a little larger locomotive in the same linear space. Alternatively, short cars with a short loco allows for a greater number of cars. Larger locos, or greater capacity, may be a distant horizon for you. But planning now on using short cars, versus 50-60ft cars, keeps that distant possibility viable rather than all but eliminate it because of rolling stock you’ve accumulated.
> 
> I’m presuming from what you’ve stated that this will be DC power. In the chance you’re planning it to be DCC, with only 5-6 turnouts, they could all be controlled via one stationary decoder. That can be pretty neat on small layouts when you utilize preset selectable “routes” such as point A to point D, point D to B, back to A, etc. At the push of a button (well, 3 buttons) it sets all the turnouts for that route accordingly. But, as fun as that is, DC is a lot simpler.


Forgot to respond here - I only have the GEVO es44ac - the cheapest DCC Bachman I could find. I bought it last year when I knew I was moving to a larger space and thought I will have more space for longer/larger layouts. Well - life happened and I now have 8x1  

I've also been playing around with DCC++ and using Arduino DCC accessory decoders to throw turnouts (electronics/carpentry is not a problem - basically anything that is not visible, I can do - don't ask me to make scenery )

So considering I will be getting everything from scratch anyway, I was thinking of some accurail kits (to keep costs low, if I can find them) for rolling stock and get a switcher (Love the GP7 so far but not sure what era that would be). No idea what to get yet so 40' sounds good I guess?


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

A GP7 would be 1950s to1970s and would match 40 foot cars nicely.
Looks good, so have fun with it and keep us posted on progress.
Scenery isn't too hard if you keep it simple. A few trees and some grass or dirt fields pretty EZ.

Magic


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## adibis (Sep 2, 2021)

Thanks - I have not settled on any era - just liked how it looked  

Any recommendations for which manufacturers to go with? For good detail / slow operations and sound? Most of the things seem to be out of stock everywhere I check


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## Conductorkev (Nov 5, 2021)

adibis said:


> Hey folks,
> 
> Limited space and time - want to try something manageable and relatively simple. Would rather focus on attempting hand laying a turnout or two - scratch building a structure / etc.
> 
> ...



If you are thinking water the beginnings of a lake/ocean upper left area with the spur right there being a dock maybe for fishery. Then have a river/stream or inlet that you train coming in goes over.


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

In regards to a trans loading facility, there’s usually one or two tracks with a few methods of moving differentvsorts of cargo. A crane for flat car loads, containers, etc. Typically a “vacuum tower” (not the correct terminology) for moving things like plastic pellets from truck to rail car or vice versa. This would have a narrow storage silo too. A liquids loading platform, again to trans load from rail car to truck & vice versa. Of course not all of those need to be represented.

GP7s are nice, although GP9s are from the same era and wildly popular. Some are still in use to this day, without heavy rebuilds into GP10s. The GP18 has a similar style. The Alco RS11 has a similar look but quite different in detail.
Later eras saw those replaced by GP38 and GP38-2. Some companies bought low nose versions, some bought hi nose versions. They’re close to the same length, perhaps a few scale feet longer but it’s negligible. The GP38-2 was introduced in the late 60s or early 70s, and still widely used in 2022. Pretty much every HO company makes/made GP38\-2.

Which brings me to manufacturers. There’s no right answer here, it comes down to personal preference. And not all sound decoders are equal. I tend to mix my own brew if you will. I get DCC ready locos of my choice, and install sound of my choice. I’m not in a rush to equip my fleet either, as sound only improves over time.
For example I intended to install 8 Tsunami decoders but never got around to buying them. Those are obsolete now with the Tsunami2 generation.
Probably the best way to compare sound decoder brands is in the flesh, at a train show or hobby shop demo. Microphones & speakers on youtube etc might not give a true representation. And it's personal preference.
Loco manufacturers: all the modern offerings are decent. I’m NOT a fan of Athearn RTR line. Athearn Genesis is highly praised, exceptionally detailed, and priced top of the line. Those don’t appeal to me as I prefer to detail my own equipment. Bachmann is ok, hit or miss IMHO. Walthers/Proto2000, Kato, et all are all pretty good in smooth running. Old Athearn “blue boxes” are inexpensive, but often have molded on detail that needs to be removed. They can be tuned up to run as smooth slow & quiet as any modern produced loco.
Saving my best mention for last is Atlas. I’ve never been disappointed by their locos, not once. From the MP15, to the GP38 to the Alco C420, they’re performance outshines everything IMO. I can get them to crawl at 1-2mph with DCC 1 step increment control, they’re as quiet as a gagged & hogtied ghost. You can hear a pin drop, and that’s no exaggeration either, I mean it literally. As for sound, I’m mot sure what Atlas installs in them these days; but as I said, I “brew my own.”


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## adibis (Sep 2, 2021)

OilValleyRy said:


> In regards to a trans loading facility, there’s usually one or two tracks with a few methods of moving differentvsorts of cargo. A crane for flat car loads, containers, etc. Typically a “vacuum tower” (not the correct terminology) for moving things like plastic pellets from truck to rail car or vice versa. This would have a narrow storage silo too. A liquids loading platform, again to trans load from rail car to truck & vice versa. Of course not all of those need to be represented.


Got it - I am thinking more of adding a single ramp on one side and a crane on the other. Probably will keep this one for last.



OilValleyRy said:


> GP7s are nice, although GP9s are from the same era and wildly popular. Some are still in use to this day, without heavy rebuilds into GP10s. The GP18 has a similar style. The Alco RS11 has a similar look but quite different in detail.
> Later eras saw those replaced by GP38 and GP38-2. Some companies bought low nose versions, some bought hi nose versions. They’re close to the same length, perhaps a few scale feet longer but it’s negligible. The GP38-2 was introduced in the late 60s or early 70s, and still widely used in 2022. Pretty much every HO company makes/made GP38\-2.
> 
> Which brings me to manufacturers. There’s no right answer here, it comes down to personal preference. And not all sound decoders are equal. I tend to mix my own brew if you will. I get DCC ready locos of my choice, and install sound of my choice. I’m not in a rush to equip my fleet either, as sound only improves over time.
> ...


Good point on GP-9 vs 7. I scored a proto-2000 DCC ready GP9 for 80 with tax and shipping. Probably a bit high but it was pretty much unused in box. So hopefully I can add a DCC controller and make that as secondary engine to keep around. Thinking of getting Athearn genesis GP9 as well so I will have a fleet of 2. Can think of adding more later. Couldn't find any Atlas anywhere.

Detailing my own - that is probably far away for me but the brew my own thing can be possible with the proto-2000 I got. Any recommendations on good budget DCC controllers here?

Any recommendations on rolling stock? Accurail seems to be mostly out of stock everywhere. I looked at Athearn RTR line but those end up close to $30 per car eventually. Ebay seems to be a mine of cheaply made cars so not sure where to start looking.


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

For DCC starter systems, I recommend visiting local/regional clubs to interact with different systems. The big difference is interface; the actual input & navigation of the system. Digitrax is probably the most popular, but not the most user-friendly. NCE is probably the most user-friendly, but does not like BLI’s factory installed decoders.

As of late, supply is low everywhere. My preferred source for equipment has become train shows. The down side is I only attend 2-3 per year. But the upside is I can get Athearn blue box kits, or assembled by a prior owner (= to RTR) for under $10 per car, whereas hobby shops price them at $20-30 per car. You’ll also find at train shows kits from defunct companies, such as McKean. 
Accurail cars are very nice kits. Bowser kits are nice also. Old Walthers white box and red box kits are among my personal favorites.

Detailing (and painting/decaling) locos is understandably overwhelming at first. If & when you decide to enter that arena, this forum has probably a combined experience of 800+ years.


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## adibis (Sep 2, 2021)

My bad. I meant dcc decoder. Not sure why I said controller. I'm using Arduino with DCC++ as controller for now. $25 for the whole thing. 

Train shows, I'm not sure if there are any around me. Will try and find out. Until then I'm going to try and get something in $20-25 range and buy 4-5 cars just so I have something.


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

Ah, well I’ve had good experiences with Digitrax decoders. There is an industry standard so any brand decoder will work with any system. There are essentially two types; board replacement type, where you’d remove & replace the factory installed circuit board with the decoder, and the plug-in type which plugs into the factory board with a particular sized plug. 

Digitrax, NCE, TCS are reputable. Avoid Lenz as the company is effectively gone and I’m not sure if they are supported by anyone.

Sound decoders also have two types AFAIK. The far more common type includes both sound and movement control for a locomotive. The second type is sound only, and “piggy backs” onto a separate movement only decoder. These are far far less common.

Reputable sound decoder companies are Soundtraxx, LokSound, uhm… my mind is going blank, lol Avoid MRC sound decoders.

Also; while there are more wonderful sources of info than any of us can actually count; I recommend searching youtube for “The DCC Guy” (aka Larry Puckett). He’s got probably hundreds of vids, going back years, on all sorts of topics, so….. pack a lunch!


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## adibis (Sep 2, 2021)

OilValleyRy said:


> Ah, well I’ve had good experiences with Digitrax decoders. There is an industry standard so any brand decoder will work with any system. There are essentially two types; board replacement type, where you’d remove & replace the factory installed circuit board with the decoder, and the plug-in type which plugs into the factory board with a particular sized plug.
> 
> Digitrax, NCE, TCS are reputable. Avoid Lenz as the company is effectively gone and I’m not sure if they are supported by anyone.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the video recommendation. I think the proto 2000 has 9 pin plug. I haven't received it yet so will see.

I was checking if there's any way to make a decoder using an Arduino but that'll probably not be economical. I'll check out dogitrax. I also heard the "economi" decoder is probably a good option as well. Will need to check the compatibility.

I also scored a decent deal on craigslist, an old life-like gp38. It's DC, single truck drive but, best thing for trying out weathering. Also came with cheap rolling stock and some buildings. Won't feel too bad messing with it.


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

I think all my P2K had 8 pin plugs on a factory board. So you’d want a digitrax that has a harness with an 8 pin plug on one end if that’s the case. The harnesses are removable. Some have just a 9 pin on one end and bare leads the other, some have 9/8 pin plugs on the ends. I think you can buy packs of harnesses alone, but I tend to get decoders that have 8/9 pin type even if I don’t need the harness. I may down the road, and the 8 pin plug can be cut off if not needed.
Also, and you may know this already, but decoders have functions. Some have 2, or 4, 6, etc. The more functions the higher the price. These extra functions are how one illuminates a rotary beacon etc.
So that may impact your choice in decoder also.

Econami are pared down Tsunami2 sound decoders. About $60 compared to Tsunami2 at $120 +/-. You don’t get quite all the bells & whistles…. Figuratively & literally speaking. Probably a good option for starting out and or B units.
I’ve not tried one myself yet but certainly will for that reason.


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

OP wrote:
_"I scored a proto-2000 DCC ready GP9 for 80 with tax and shipping. Probably a bit high but it was pretty much unused in box."_

IF it's one of the "dcc ready" GP's, it will have the wiring from track/engine/lights plugged into an 8-pin "harness", that is plugged into a light board which is screwed to the top of the loco weight.

There are "dedicated" dcc decoder boards that are made to swap out with the factory light board. In my P2000 GP9, I have a Digitrax DH165LO.

Installation goes like this:

Remove shell
GENTLY lift the wiring harness from the light board
Remove factory light board and replace with decoder board
Re-install wiring harness
Re-fit shell

I didn't screw the decoder board in. Instead, I put a little tape over the weight (to insulate it), and just let the board/harness "float" under the shell. Works for me.

_Hmmm...._
I'm not sure if the factory incandescent bulbs will work. I'm thinking "they should" but I replaced them with LEDs (which I got on ebay, they have the resistors pre-installed).

For a decoder source, I'd like to suggest yankeedabbler.com. Good prices, low shipping charge, fast service. I think this is what you're looking for:








DH165L0- Digitrax / Plug N'Play Decoder Life-Like (Scale = HO) Part # 245-DH165L0


The Best Model Trains and Accessories - Sales, Service, Installations For Less




yankeedabbler.com





*BE AWARE:*
Some new-old stock Proto 2000 engines are highly likely to have cracked gears on the wheelsets, which will need to be replaced. You'll know RIGHT AWAY if yours has this problem, the engine will "buck" or won't run hardly at all. Or, the gears will "click... click..." as it runs.

There are two approaches to fixing this:

Replace the gears only (reuse the wheel "halves", but you'll have to re-gauge them)
Replace the entire wheelset. You can get these from Walthers or use Athearn part number ATH60024
*BE AWARE:*
The gearcases on old Proto 2000 engines are often clogged up with old, dried out grease that looks like peanut butter.
You need to COMPLETELY DISASSEMBLE the gearcases, clean everything (isopropyl alcohol works), then re-assemble.
Some wires to the trucks may have to be disconnected or replaced.

Just stuff you need to be aware of with Proto 2000.
But... don't be put off by this.
Once all "cleaned up", these old engines run as good as or better than a lot of "new stuff"..


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## adibis (Sep 2, 2021)

OilValleyRy said:


> I think all my P2K had 8 pin plugs on a factory board. So you’d want a digitrax that has a harness with an 8 pin plug on one end if that’s the case. The harnesses are removable. Some have just a 9 pin on one end and bare leads the other, some have 9/8 pin plugs on the ends. I think you can buy packs of harnesses alone, but I tend to get decoders that have 8/9 pin type even if I don’t need the harness. I may down the road, and the 8 pin plug can be cut off if not needed.
> Also, and you may know this already, but decoders have functions. Some have 2, or 4, 6, etc. The more functions the higher the price. These extra functions are how one illuminates a rotary beacon etc.
> So that may impact your choice in decoder also.
> 
> ...


It might be 8 pin. I am not sure, I just received the locomotive today - it's practically brand new. Looks like never used, came with all accessories still in the box, box and all paperwork in-tact. I will try the non-sound version since I saw a bunch of videos and write-ups on GP9 stating that any sort of sound decoder (or even a simple keep alive for that matter) needs major metal cutting inside the locomotive body. Don't want to start messing around with this one - I have another used GP9 (again proto 2k) coming from ebay next week (which looks comparatively beaten up) that I will try putting DCC into.


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## adibis (Sep 2, 2021)

J.Albert1949 said:


> OP wrote:
> _"I scored a proto-2000 DCC ready GP9 for 80 with tax and shipping. Probably a bit high but it was pretty much unused in box."_
> 
> IF it's one of the "dcc ready" GP's, it will have the wiring from track/engine/lights plugged into an 8-pin "harness", that is plugged into a light board which is screwed to the top of the loco weight.
> ...


Thanks a lot for this! Very useful.

I just ordered a few boxcars from yankeedabbler - having tough time finding modernish (1970+) 40' cars. Managed to get some boxcars but nothing on flat/gondola or reefers. Might need to give up on having 2 cars on the spurs for now and just get the 50' cars that I can find for now.

Anyway - good tip on the gears and grease. I will order replacement gears as well with the decoder. I wonder if grease is the best option here considering it might pick up dust/grime/hair/etc. I am thinking if the dry-lube (waxy) that I use on my bicycle might be a better option here? Though for closed system grease might be better...

And couldn't agree more with the comment about the cleaning up - I don't mind spending a weekend or two tuning up the old engines - if that means I end up saving a hundred bucks per engine - that adds up quickly.


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

OP:
_"I will order replacement gears as well with the decoder."_

I'd try the engine first before I replaced the gears/wheelsets.
Do you have a DC power pack?
If so, set up on a short stretch of track, see how it runs.

After I cleaned out the old grease, I used Labelle #108 plastic-compatible oil on the gears (no grease). Good enough for me.


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## Chops (Dec 6, 2018)

You have 558 watchers in a very short time. This is a most interesting project you have in mind. Please update us!


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## adibis (Sep 2, 2021)

Chops said:


> You have 558 watchers in a very short time. This is a most interesting project you have in mind. Please update us!


Haha - the pressure!

Life / "adulting" and other words... I got some 1x4s today for making the open frame. No plywood available anywhere yet so need to wait on that. I might have the frame ready by this weekend if work permits.

I am thinking a 1x4 frame, thinking of bracing every 12 inches instead of 16. Then thinking of adding 2" risers on all of them, cut a 1/2" plywood in shape of the track plan and have the whole track plan at 2" above the open frame. I am pretty sure I won't go below the track level on this layout (I might - don't know yet) but just want to try out this technique and see if that turns out better than trying to cut foam. 

Another thing I am hoping this will allow me is to wire up the whole track and turnouts before starting to add any scenery base.


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## adibis (Sep 2, 2021)

J.Albert1949 said:


> OP:
> _"I will order replacement gears as well with the decoder."_
> 
> I'd try the engine first before I replaced the gears/wheelsets.
> ...


Yes - won't change anything if it is running fine but my thought was just to get a set if it's a known problem so I don't end up hunting for parts when it happens.

I have a DC power pack and I already tried this locomotive and it runs fine so no gear swap needed on this. Not sure about the other ones (still in transit). 

Thanks for the tip on the labelle oil - will check that out.


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

Quick advice: screw & glue the perimeter framing, but only screw in the cross bracing in case you need to move one a few inches over.

Depending on what kind of turnout controls you plan to use, you may not need any plywood. While having plywood sub roadbed even with the top of 2 inch foam is nice, you can do just a foam top. I believe Tortoise machines can be mounted sideways? Peco solenoid machines can mount directly to Peco turnout ties. Blue Points could be mounted to 1x2 spanning between the 1x4 cross braces. 
If you _need_ wood sub roadbed and cannot find plywood, MDF shelving might work. I’m not sure of pricing these days but 1x4ft shelf pieces used to be about $6 (pre-covid supply probs). And yes, glue will stick to the common white finish.


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## adibis (Sep 2, 2021)

I actually want to try just plywood freeform (cut to track using a jigsaw) because I've never done it. I have an old n scale layout which was just foam on open frame (simple loop) - want to try plywood + cork without foam this time.

Turnouts are walthers new DCC ones without pivot point. I'm also thinking of scratch building at least one turnout using fast track template without a jig. 

For control, I got cheap $2 servos on eBay, piano wire, an Arduino mega clone. I'm thinking of just using switches on a panel instead of dcc for turnout control. Easier and visual. Just make a small panel with LEDs and switches.

Also, sande plywood $51 for 4x8 sheet. CDX is $51 as well. B/C is $48. I hate covid prices. Made some closer organizers few weeks ago and 3/4th plywood was $70 😬


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

If you are going to scratch build a turnout, look at www.cvmw.com as they have some nice kits for turnouts. Also Proto87stores have really nice kits for both the rivet counter and the normal user. Forget fasttrack templates, they are expensive and of little use.


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## adibis (Sep 2, 2021)

Lemonhawk said:


> If you are going to scratch build a turnout, look at www.cvmw.com as they have some nice kits for turnouts. Also Proto87stores have really nice kits for both the rivet counter and the normal user. Forget fasttrack templates, they are expensive and of little use.


I am not buying the jigs from fast-track. Just use their downloadable PDF template and build using that. CVMW looks nice - I really liked the switch stands they have - might get them. 

I also played around a bit more on the layout using train-player and looked at a lot more videos and pictures of layouts. One thing that stood out was a recommendation on boomer-road-diorama on youtube about not having tracks running parallel to fascia to create some play with angles and create more interest in general. So - updated the plan a little bit. I squeezed in 4 more inches and made it 8'x16" - I think 8x14" will work as well if I run tracks very close to the edge.

Here's the updated plan. I was out last weekend, hoping to finish the benchwork this weekend now.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

The switch stands from the proto87 stores have metal gears and work far better! The plastic ones from cvmw were a bit fiddley and I ended up with everything glued together and not working.


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## adibis (Sep 2, 2021)

Started building some background structures / mockups today. All using balsa wood sheets. Just to have something to test the layout and see how it all fits together.

I'm not at all artistically inclined so this is the toughest part - all the scenery and beautification.


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## Conductorkev (Nov 5, 2021)

adibis said:


> Started building some background structures / mockups today. All using balsa wood sheets. Just to have something to test the layout and see how it all fits together.
> 
> I'm not at all artistically inclined so this is the toughest part - all the scenery and beautification.
> 
> View attachment 582151


Your not the only one... I think sometimes a 3 yr old could do better lol


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

Nice. I’ll assume you know due to window openings, but mention it in case you didn’t realize, those “mock ups” can become 1 of a kind finished structures later on by simply laminating the sides with styrene (brick, clapboard, metal, etc), some window castings and a roof.


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## adibis (Sep 2, 2021)

OilValleyRy said:


> Nice. I’ll assume you know due to window openings, but mention it in case you didn’t realize, those “mock ups” can become 1 of a kind finished structures later on by simply laminating the sides with styrene (brick, clapboard, metal, etc), some window castings and a roof.


Yes, eventually. Too many things going on right now. I visited three home depot locations and all have broken panel saws so I can't get a plywood cut to fit in my car. Sucks.

I ordered electronics though and started playing with servos for turnout control. 

Next is to add signal lights, relay for frog polarity and also add CMRI control.


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## timlange3 (Jan 16, 2013)

I have foldable metal saw horses, an 8' aluminum straight edge (comes apart into two 4' sections), a couple clamps, and a battery powered circular saw (Ryobi). I can then do my cuts in the parking lot! If it is raining, go to Menard's, the cart returns have a roof!


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## adibis (Sep 2, 2021)

timlange3 said:


> I have foldable metal saw horses, an 8' aluminum straight edge (comes apart into two 4' sections), a couple clamps, and a battery powered circular saw (Ryobi). I can then do my cuts in the parking lot! If it is raining, go to Menard's, the cart returns have a roof!


If only our HD allowed it. They said they don't, it might have something to do with the recent fire at one of the HDs here in bay area leading to the whole store burning down - they're not taking chances. 

Luckily, I found a local wood store that allows cutting in parking lot and I finally have the plywood.


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

I’m just gonna sing a little diddy in response to that…

You gotta know when to hold em,
Know when to fold em!
Know when to ask if you can, 
And when to anyway!

You never count your fingers…
When you’re squeezin the trigger!
There’ll be plenty time to doctors…
When the sawins done!


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## adibis (Sep 2, 2021)

LOL, true but this new place is cheaper and has better plywood. I got some 3/4th birch for cabinets too. At $15 lesser than HD and 11 ply vs 7.

Transferred the prints to the plywood just now. Too late to cut without disturbing all neighbors so maybe cutting tomorrow.


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