# Turn-out redo



## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Here's one of the turn-outs the owner, (Rusty), provided with the Royal Blue set. It was complete with spider nests, etc,lol. Dirty, as usual, but I tested the light, and it did work. The frog wasn't very co-operative as it was quite tight, and didn't want to move very freely. Some tarnish/corrosion on the rails but not bad... Let's tear it apart...


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Remove the lamp housing.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

On it's back, removing the long bottom cover and the smaller cover. This shows you the link assembly, mechanism assembly, plunger, spring, and coil assembly.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Link assembly removed.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Back to the top-side, I removed the frog by pounding out the pin in the center of it, from the back side. Be careful you don't lose the copper spring washer.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

I polished the rails on the frog, and cleaned up the backside so it would move/work freely on the switch face.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Back to the link assembly, I polished/cleaned the plunger that rides inside the coil assembly. I also polished/cleaned the points on the triangular-looking end. These small points come in contact with small plates located under the link assembly.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

In this shot are the 2 large plates, and 2 small plates the "points" come in contact with when the coil is activated. The link assembly will then move the frog to straight or turn-out.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Link assembly and mechanism re-assembly. See how the points come in contact with the 2 large plates and 2 small plates?? Make sure you use the correct screw when assembling the mechanism back to the switch housing. It uses 4 long screws, not the shorter screws. You will break the bake-lite screw holes if you use the wrong ones.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Plunger/spring assembly.. This can be adjusted by loosening the small bolt on the link assembly. I have never had to adjust it. If you do loosen it, make sure it's centered, or the frog will not complete the throw. I use a small drop of oil on these parts so they slide easier. You can also increase or decrease the spring tension by using different springs, but I have never had to do this either. You MUST have some tension on the plunger, as you want the frog to snap into it's place,straight or turn-out, and STAY THERE. If there is not enough tension to keep the frog tight against the rails, as the loco moves through the frog, it will cause the frog to move slightly, losing electrical contact, and causing a stall.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

I won't cover on putting the covers back on, just use the small screws you took out. Here's the finished product.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Forgot to add, this baby snaps when you apply 16 volts to it!!! I tested it with leads coming off my fixed posts, and they move quick!! It actually scared me the first time, lol.. Light works or course...Forgot to add, there is a small shoulder screw that holds the link assembly to the frog from underneath. Polished the rails, and she's as good as new...Not shown, but I also straightened out the pins and put the proper "bend" to the outside.


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## Aflyer (Nov 10, 2010)

flyernut,
Nice write up on rebuilding the switch, looking forward to seeing the fellas 350 up and running. You do an awesome job.

I have a couple switches with the frog worn to the point of being lower than the rails on the switch. Have you ever had one like this, and have you been able to shim it up successfully?

And do you just drive the rivet holding the frog out from the bottom of the switch?

Thanks in advance,
George


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Aflyer said:


> flyernut,
> Nice write up on rebuilding the switch, looking forward to seeing the fellas 350 up and running. You do an awesome job.
> 
> I have a couple switches with the frog worn to the point of being lower than the rails on the switch. Have you ever had one like this, and have you been able to shim it up successfully?
> ...


I use a small pin punch to drive out the rivet George. It actually has a spline on it, much like a bell or whistle on a boiler from a steam loco. I put a drop of oil on it from underneath and let it soak for a minute to help it come out. I then use a socket under the stud to drive it out. It's actually called a "switch pilot stud", Gilbert part # PA10925. Hope that helps...Loren


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Aflyer said:


> flyernut,
> Nice write up on rebuilding the switch, looking forward to seeing the fellas 350 up and running. You do an awesome job.
> 
> I have a couple switches with the frog worn to the point of being lower than the rails on the switch. Have you ever had one like this, and have you been able to shim it up successfully?
> ...


How much wear are we talking?? I've never seen that before. I believe you can still buy the frogs, NOS..If you want to shim it, I use a piece of aluminum from a beer or pop can. Make it the shape and size you want. You can also buy shim-stock.. I've used the beer can shim deal on a rifle scope with 100% positive results.


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## Aflyer (Nov 10, 2010)

Loren,
We run them on the club layout, and they get a ton of use, so that is where the wear comes from.

I think the shimming seems doable, just wondered if you had ever done one.

Thanks for the quick response,
George


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Nice work on the track switches. I see the one you included in the picture had a 2/51 production date. Those kind of details are interesting to me.


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Nice job and this procedure is going into the archives for future reference....very well done!!


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

AmFlyer said:


> Nice work on the track switches. I see the one you included in the picture had a 2/51 production date. Those kind of details are interesting to me.


I forgot to add that tidbit. Both switches had the same production date.


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