# Yeah, I know what I said. But........



## Stillakid

This isn't an Engine, tender or car!:laugh::laugh::laugh:

This is a prewar, Lionel 127 Station house. The scale is more like "S", than "O" 
While it was a bit scary to look at, and I'll be making a roof, it had potential and will do nicely when I get my table done

Lots of hand sanding. And about 2 hours of trying to get out all the kinks and bends. I ended up using some 1"x2", a small ball peen hammer and a piece of flat steel as a form. Learned some new tricks on this one:laugh::laugh::laugh:

Base, sides and front are all finished. Used Rust-oleum primer and satin paint. The trim pieces are all primed and will get two different colors for windows, doors and moulding.

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## Stillakid

*forgot these*

interior lamp shade and the Lioneltown Plates

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## Reckers

Very nice, Jim! I think you could easily turn it into a church or schoolhouse, if you wanted to.


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## Stillakid

*Hmmmmmmmm.........*

Good thinking, Len! If I do a church, then I get to build a steeple, and have parking and cars! Guess I need to start looking for scale auto's and pick-ups(mostly the later, we being "Red-Necks" here in the South!":laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:


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## T-Man

Did it come with a roof?
You can see it in my thread. 137 station


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## Reckers

Don't forget blocks! Ya gotta have lotsa cars up on blocks in the front yards!


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## Stillakid

*Blocks?*

Oh yeah, you mean "Jack Stands!":laugh::laugh:

Bob, yours is a, "Gem!" Wish mine looked as good
No roof, so that means I can build one I've got an old cookie tin lid that will do the job. It's thick, but pliable(like me!)

I noticed that your base had terminal connectors. Mine doesn't. I wonder why? Is it possible I have an earlier version? LED's huh? Sweet! Not gonna go there:laugh::laughyet!)

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## tjcruiser

Stillakid said:


> And about 2 hours of trying to get out all the kinks and bends. I ended up using some 1"x2", a small ball peen hammer and a piece of flat steel as a form. Learned some new tricks on this one:laugh::laugh::laugh:


"Jim's Anger Management and Aggression Dissipation Lessons, 101" :laugh:

I'm gonna start watching ebay to see if any Steam Rollers get sold to some tinker-type down in Virginia!

Great looking building. I really like the "quatrefoil" windows in the gables ... classy. Reck's right ... sorta chuch-like.

Do you have access to a sheet metal press, or maybe jury-rig something out of some flatbar and some clamps?

Looking forward to seeing the finished product!

TJ


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## Stillakid

*Press?*

TJ, I think the pictures are poor. The clapboard siding is pressed into the metal, so the back side has this same pattern. Couldn't do much more than I did without flattening out the siding


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## Stillakid

*Milk Glass?*

Bob, what's, "Milk Glass?" Where do I get it, and is it easy to work with?(you know us Southern boys are a bit slow):laugh:


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## tjcruiser

Ha ha ...

No, no ... you misunderstood ... I was asking if you had access to a press for making the roof (or flat bar and clamps to bend angles, etc.).

Just curious,

TJ


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## Stillakid

*Oh I see, said the blind man!*

Gotch!
No, but I do have a decent wood vise and plenty of scrap pieces. I figure that using those plus clamps will do the trick. What say you?


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## tjcruiser

For sure I think you can tackle this with clamps, straight edges, etc.

If you want to echo T-Man's original roof, you might consider bending the sheet to just a simple 1-bend angle (the main roof pitch), then adding a ridge via a hobby-store square U-extrusion (or your own U), and edges via hobby-store L-angles ... maybe solder or even glue on, prior to paint? Piecewise might be easier than trying to bend all out of one sheet.

But definitely do-able ... nay ... piece of cake in Stillakid's hands!

Or try Reck's idea and add a steeple or cupola or similar?

TJ


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## Stillakid

*Great!*

All great ideas. Thanks TJ!:thumbsup:


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## T-Man

My milk glass is the plastic from a milk jug. Had to think about that one.
Real milk glass is a white glass used in stained glass work.
THe plastic was held in place by wires in a s shape. I didn't want glue. also my roof is two sections. The flat piece inside holds the chimneys in place. Mine did not have a socket. I had it for years before I figured out how to take the roof off.


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## Stillakid

*Roof*

Bob, Did you make the "S" so that it was pressed against the sides and used pressure to hold the cut plastic against the walls/windows? Was it one long piece for each side? How about the the sides?

The brass lamp(it's centered and is attached at the rafter level), is pretty bright. Do you think that one lamp is enough?

Thanks,
Jim


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## Stillakid

*Painted*

Painting is done. Now for the roof(when I get back from vacation)

Bob, I'm thinking that TJ's idea would work the best. Not sure about making those rolled areas at the peak and along the eaves. What do you think?

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## tjcruiser

Jim,

Looking grrrreaaaatttt! Very crisp and classy. I didn't realize that lamp shade was so big in proportion to the building ... I LOVE it! That will look amazing all lit up.

Have fun on vaca ... but remember to sit down IDLE for at least a few minutes (4 or 5, or so), so that you can check off the "did that" box in good faith to your better half!

TJ


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## T-Man

Stillakid said:


> Bob, Did you make the "S" so that it was pressed against the sides and used pressure to hold the cut plastic against the walls/windows? Was it one long piece for each side? How about the the sides?
> 
> The brass lamp(it's centered and is attached at the rafter level), is pretty bright. Do you think that one lamp is enough?
> 
> Thanks,
> Jim



The s wires are front and back. The sides are held up by the center support of the roof. One bulb is enough. I also fed two LEDs to the attic for end lighting.

The light bracket may be in the way of the roof.


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## Reckers

Jim,

Would you email me your return date from vacation? I want to mail something to you and don't want it cluttering your mailbox for a week. *L*


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## tjcruiser

Jim,

One passing thought in regards to cheap sources of sheet metal (re: your roof, etc.) ...

Our local newspaper publisher uses thin aluminum sheets as printing plates. Each one has a one-shot life, then the newspaper company recycles them and/or sells them cheaply to the public. I've used these in the past for various aluminum sheet metal projects. You can't beat the price. Maybe your local newspaper publisher offers the same type of deal?

"Unlimited Number Slightly Used ALUMINUM SHEETS Used once as printing plates for The Newport Daily News. One side has a picture of two pages of the newspaper. The other side is blank. Excellent for insulation, flashing, drip pans, sheathing and dozens of other uses. The sheets measure 23"x26 1/4"x.008" thousandths-about as thick as a manila file folder. They can be cut with scissors, razor blade, knife, etc. Packaged in the following quantities: 1-4 $.75 ea. 5-9 $.65 ea. 10-19 $.60 ea. 20-99 $.55 ea. 100+ $.50 ea. plus sales tax."

TJ


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## T-Man

The wheels are turning. Do you want chimneys?


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## Stillakid

*Yes!*

Back from vacation on the 21st.

Bob, that would be great

TJ, if they have them, I will. Lots of things I could use them for:laugh::laugh:


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## T-Man

*Cat on a Hot Tin RuFF*

I did make one chimney. I started a roof project. The piece is 8 1/2 by 6. I used a 9/64th rod to bend the first peak at 270 degrees. Just barely visible in the second picture. I then went to a vise to define the peak by pushing back to get a crease. I used some scrap duct work. The trick with sheet metal is to use something that can be worked with. I can bend this with my hands. I have made two roofs. If one goofs, I will have to go to the second. The first is shown on the station.The second I took pictures of bending.




















I had my 6 inch cutters to cut everthing straight. I can't believe I am doing this in a S scale thread.


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## tjcruiser

T-Man,

That's awesome ... nice metalwork. I was afraid Jim might have to cut away those little half-round bumps on the tops of his end gables (above the quatrefoil round windows) to get a "conventional" roof peak to fit. Your half-round peak is a perfect mate!

Is it Christmas in May ???

TJ


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## Stillakid

*Cut away?*

TJ, I was thinking I was going to use my router to cut 2 slots down the length of a dowel rod and slide in the 2 sections of roof I would make.


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## T-Man

tjcruiser said:


> T-Man,
> 
> That's awesome ... nice metalwork. I was afraid Jim might have to cut away those little half-round bumps on the tops of his end gables (above the quatrefoil round windows) to get a "conventional" roof peak to fit. Your half-round peak is a perfect mate!
> 
> Is it Christmas in May ???
> 
> TJ


Naturally, the front looks better. The next step is bending a c channel.
Xmas? I don't know if Jim is ready for a T-man repro.


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## Reckers

T-Man said:


> I did make one chimney. I started a roof project. The piece is 8 1/2 by 6. I used a 9/64th rod to bend the first peak at 270 degrees. Just barely visible in the second picture. I then went to a vise to define the peak by pushing back to get a crease. I used some scrap duct work. The trick with sheet metal is to use something that can be worked with. I can bend this with my hands. I have made two roofs. If one goofs, I will have to go to the second. The first is shown on the station.The second I took pictures of bending.
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> I had my 6 inch cutters to cut everthing straight. *I can't believe I am doing this in a S scale thread*.


I'm proud of you---OUR BOY HAS GROWN UP! HE'S S SCALE, AT LAST!!!:laugh:


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## tjcruiser

Stillakid said:


> TJ, I was thinking I was going to use my router to cut 2 slots down the length of a dowel rod and slide in the 2 sections of roof I would make.


Could work. Don't go too deep though, otherwise you run the risk of fully cutting (or breaking) away an inverted-V section on the bottom of the dowel.

Maybe you could to that intentionally (cut away an inverted V), then glue that to the top of a one-piece main roof with a simple angle bend in it???

Either way, you may likely have to trim away the half-round protrusions on the building end gables. T-Man's nice full-metal-roof skirts around that issue. Maybe you could give his method a shot? Especially if you could work with softer (easier to bend) aluminum, rather than steel???

Only talking out loud here ... you're call, obviously ...

(And shouldn't you be sitting on a beach somewhere right about now ???)

TJ


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## T-Man

I can't complain too much about S scale. After all, my 027 is the same. I probably have more of that than O.

I played with the support connections. Tying them into the roof will have to be different. I might just crimp the two together. I need those supports because they hold the chimneys. BY crimping I can run the roof down longer with less precision, bend it back then insert the support. I doubt I can copy the original bends that join the roof. The best trick is to keep it simpple. Since Jim has a brace in the center the the supports will be on the two sides. It is easier to make the roof, with the original to refer to and the bldg to test it on.


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## tjcruiser

Another option ...

forego the horizontal roof section (you say needed for chimney support), and build a longer chimney picking up some sort of a cleat support on the building base (down low).

Again ... just talking out loud ...

TJ


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## T-Man

TJ, it would make it more difficult to remove the roof to change a bulb.


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## T-Man

I started with a roof bend. As you can see nothing comes out straight. All I can do is line it up and trim. I have the two supports in loose. I will crimp them in ,but first I have to add two chimneys. At last, a trial fit.


















The good thin about a roof is that it has two sides. SO you can always show the best side.


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## Stillakid

*WoW!*

Incredible skills, Bob!
I should send you one of extra motors from the "Talking Station". You could make a fantastic turntable with it! :thumbsup:


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## T-Man

It won't be as good as the original but will serve the purpose. This metal is galvanized so I plan to rub it out some. Then it will be ready for you to paint.
The chimney will need to be lined up so I am hoping on some parallel slots to help. This is light stuff easy to bend and trim. Best of all no moving parts.


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## Stillakid

Bob, you are, "The Best!"

So what do you say. Want to try that motor for a project? I have 2 and won't be using either one. I'm sure there's something you've been hankering to build that needs power!


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## tjcruiser

T-Man,

The roof-in-progress looks great! Nice sheet metal work!

Any thoughts as to whether stuff like this is easier/best with gal steel or thin aluminum? I mentioned the "newspaper" aluminum sheets above. I've used them in the past for some simple bent metal projects, but never tried to prime and paint.

TJ


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## T-Man

I use aluminum flashing, I prefer not to use it because it dents too easy. The thin duct pieces are just right to work with. Between a vise and the wide vise grips I can get the bends I need. When I make the log brackets for the 6111 car. I constantly trim to square it off so it looks right. The errors increase as you go along. The trick is to use what you can to your advantage. Bending back hides a trim cut because I left excess length in case I needed it. I also think aluminum is hard to bend straight. It will warp first and won't sit straight.
Aluminum should prime and paint well.

JIm what is the talking station?


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## Stillakid

*Mystic Train Station*

Bob, check the thread on the, "Mystic Train Station" There's a pic of the motor there. I'm going, "Solid State" and won't need the "record player& turntable"
With your knowledge of electrical components and building/fabricating skills, I could see lots of projects you could use it on


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## T-Man

For now, hang on it. Maybe I will find the building empty sometime. Now I know what to look for. The Light shades caught my attention. What's out there now that looks like a lightshade for an LED? 

I have an idea. I'll get back to you.

For a shade a wood wheel similiar to a brio type will work. I rounded the edges and enlarged the hole. I have a Xmas LED pack and both together make a convincing light. Naturally I will need to epoxy them together.

Sneak peak and my Uncle Fester immitation.


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## Stillakid

*Naturally!*

Good thing that epoxy is so readily available!:laugh:


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## T-Man

Christmas in July package sent! Ho Ho


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## Stillakid

So's yours! Ho-Ho-Ho!


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## Reckers

You girls crack me up!


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## Big Ed

Stillakid said:


> Bob, check the thread on the, "Mystic Train Station" There's a pic of the motor there. I'm going, "Solid State" and won't need the "record player& turntable"
> With your knowledge of electrical components and building/fabricating skills, I could see lots of projects you could use it on



I saw a "junk" one on e bay the other day. I should have copied the link. It had the sides but was missing the top. Had the guts but I don't think they worked.

Cheap too, it didn't look like anyone was interested in it.

A perfect T man project.:thumbsup:

It's listed weird. I was searching for something else and it came up in the search. I can't remember what search I was doing and I can't find it now.

Edit.....,

I went back again and tried, no luck.
I think i was searching Lionel junk lots and it was mixed in with some other stuff.

I did find this, I don't know if it's the same thing. It says operating but doesn't explain the operating part.

http://cgi.ebay.com/MARX-O-GAUGE-ME...ewItem&pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item58878a2c7c


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## tjcruiser

Big Ed,

That's last link is a Marx station (as touted), but not the roof. Maybe a Lionel roof erroneously stuck on top?

TJ


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## T-Man

The Marx station has a whistle. It appears to have a Mystic top, although it is beat up.


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## Stillakid

T-Man, unless the "Litho" on those old "Tin-Plate" pieces isn't in good shape, the roof is the least of your problems!


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## T-Man

Technically, from a point of view, you only need one good side to view!

I couldn't find the mystery building search 6 pages of lot, part and junk in O scale. Had to stop, too many temptations.


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## Stillakid

T-Man, I know the feeling


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## Stillakid

*The "Finished" Station House*

This finished product is a "T-Man Special!"

Bob's roof, was a very generous and much needed part to finish the project. I think, as the pictures bear out, that his work is as good as the original!:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Bob, I'll make sure, that when my family & friends see this wonderful Station, they'll be told of how someone I've never met, made it possible for me to have such a "Treasure!"

Thank You!!!!

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## Big Ed

Looks better then new.:thumbsup:

One question, How come you didn't try to match the original colors?


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## Stillakid

*Colors?*

Big Ed, I paint things colors that I like. I'm not a "Purist!"(remember my Marx crane!):laugh::laugh::laugh:

These were colors that appealed to me, so I used them. I've got that AF Electro-Magnetic Crane, just waiting for a new paint job and I'm sure it too will not be, "Original!":laugh::laugh::laugh:

Does that mean you don't like the finished product?


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## Big Ed

No I think it looks great!:thumbsup:

I was was just wondering why.

I figured it's because you had the paint and did not want to waste money trying to match it. 
Or maybe you couldn't match it.

What finish is on the roof?


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## Stillakid

The roof, is done in;

Ed, I could have probably matched it by purchasing a Lionel Paint Color. And you're right about using what I have. I spray the colors beforehand to see if I like the way they match up. In this case, I did like the contrasts.

Rust-Oleum MultiColor Textured #223525 Aged Iron

I like the finish because it almost looks like Roofing!


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## Big Ed

Stillakid said:


> The roof, is done in;
> 
> Ed, I could have probably matched it by purchasing a Lionel Paint Color. And you're right about using what I have. I spray the colors beforehand to see if I like the way they match up. In this case, I did like the contrasts.
> 
> Rust-Oleum MultiColor Textured #223525 Aged Iron
> 
> I like the finish because it almost looks like Roofing!


I thought the same thing Excellent choice of color for a roof.:thumbsup:

Did you "save" the old Lioneltown name or redo it too?


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## Stillakid

Ed, that texture stuff is nice for roofs. I want to build a flat roof, engine shed and think it would look great. All I need to do is glue down some thick cord for a pattern, and then spray. Would look like old tar-paper

"Lioneltown" pieces(front & back), were saves. Came out better than I expected. I thought for sure I'd loose the black in the lettering!


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## tjcruiser

Jim ... AND T-Man, of course!

BRAVO ... LOOKS WONDERFUL ... NICE WORK! I really like the roof / chimney colors!

TJ


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## tooter

Stillakid said:


> Big Ed, I paint things colors that I like. I'm not a "Purist!"


You did a beautiful job, kid...:thumbsup:

Being a non purist is really cool.


Greg


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## Stillakid

Thanks for the encouragement!

T-Man gets a heaping dose of credit, too!


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## T-Man

I am glad it turn out OK for you. I must admit, I got a lot out of it too. That is the best roof to date. I have been toying with others with limited success.I hate to see an old station convertible style.
When I originally made my chimney, my thought was, that I was glad I didn't have to make a whole roof! Well because of this forum I did take it one step further. So Jim enjoy it. It looks great!:thumbsup:


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## Reckers

Very impressive, T-Man!


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## tjcruiser

Jim,

What did you use to create the brick look on the chimney? Some sort of wrap around wallpaper? Paint? Looks great!

(Sorry if you answered this previously ... I didn't see it above.)

Cheers,

TJ


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## Stillakid

*Paper!*

From a free site;

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## tjcruiser

Excellent! That two-toned bottom left one is quite convincing. Thanks for posting the pic here!

TJ


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## tooter

What a cool brick idea! :thumbsup:


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## Stillakid

Thank You! Since I can't paint bricks, and T-Mans work was so great, I thought I'd give it some definition. 

I'm thinking that those sheets of brick, might look good on the shed's I want to build also

Jim


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