# Question Concerning Connecting Turntable Service Tracks to Bachmann EZ Command



## JStussy (Dec 31, 2020)

Hello,
I've made some slight revisions to my layout plan, and have now incorporated two lead tracks to my turntable as well as two service tracks on which to store my two primary locomotives.









I was informed the service tracks could be powered by the power supply for my DCC controller (Bachmann EZ Command in this case), but I'm uncertain of how to do that if the EZ Command Controller is already connected to the feeder track on my main line (indicated by the arrow). I have seen wiring diagrams where a power booster is used to power the service tracks, but as those are rather expensive, I'd prefer only to use that as a last resort. The turntable will also have its own power supply, but this is for the turntable bridge rather than the service tracks.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I'm really unclear of your terminology, however, the basic
rules of DCC apply here. The Bachmann EZ controller is
the source for ALL tracks on your layout, and NOTHING ELSE.
It's power supply should NOT be connected to anything else.
The MOTOR of your turntable must be powered by a source other
than the EZ power supply. This might be an old DC train power
pack or an unused wall wart with a DC output of around 12 or 
14 volts.

The TRACK on the turntable is powered by the EZ DCC track Bus. It may have
an included reverse loop controller, and if not you would need
a Double Pole Double Throw toggle to maintain phase (Polarity)
Consult the turntable manual to determine this.
There is no need of a DCC booster.

If your question is something different please restate it.

Don


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## JStussy (Dec 31, 2020)

Ah, OK. My apologies. Yes, I do have an additional power supply for the turntable motor, but if my understanding is correct, the EZ Command Controller power supply will even provide power to the service tracks, or the ones sticking straight out from the turntable. I was told I'd have to feed power to these service tracks, though, and while I've found a way to convert these tracks into feeder tracks (the track I'm using has rail joiners with feeder wires attached), I'm not sure how to connect these wires to the EZ Command Controller, as the only output on the controller will be connected to my main line.



DonR said:


> I'm really unclear of your terminology, however, the basic
> rules of DCC apply here. The Bachmann EZ controller is
> the source for ALL tracks on your layout, and NOTHING ELSE.
> It's power supply should NOT be connected to anything else.
> ...


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

"The turntable will also have its own power supply..."

It doesn't sound as though you are using a wiring buss for track drops and instead are using a single point connection at the track.

Now is probably the time to start using a track buss of 14 to 16 ga. wire around the underside of the layout and using track drops to tap in to the controller power source so you can power your storage tracks from the turntable.

Your Bachmann EZ Command is soon going to be obsolete on your railroad.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Easy fix. As Don said, basic rules of DCC.
1) Disconnect track feeders from EZ Command.
2) Connect them to a power distribution block or a terminal strip.
3) Connect 3 or more additional pairs of feeders to said terminal strip or distribution block. One goes to each service track, and one to the turntable bridge track. This last one must be wired through a DCC autoreversing unit, which may or may not already be incorporated into the turntable's circuitry.
4) Connect the distribution block or terminal strip to your EZ Command with a pair of bus wires. Make sure the polarity matches your track feeders.
5) Cross your fingers that you have not exceeded the power output of the EZ Command (you shouldn't, ifyou're only running one train). If it does, you either need a booster or a more powerful DCC unit.


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## Mixed Freight (Aug 31, 2019)

To power your freight and passenger locomotive tracks, simply jumper over to them from any other track(s) that are already powered. Be sure and maintain proper polarity.

Turntable may or may not need special wiring, depending on brand. I have an Atlas N-scale turntable on my 4' x 8' layout that needs no special wiring. Hook 2 wires up to it for the track power. It automatically reverses polarity at a certain point of its rotation.


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## JStussy (Dec 31, 2020)

OK, thank you for letting me know. I believe at present, the maximum number of locomotives I'll be running is three, with the third being a switcher that will do only sporadic work. I also believe the Walthers turntable I have includes an auto-reversing function, as the instructions read, "The connections to the bridge rails are automatically reversed when the bridge rotates through the NO TRACK zone to maintain this polarity relationship. Thus the bridge rails match the service tracks at both ends regardless of the orientation of the bridge." I can get either a power distribution block, terminal strip, or power booster at my local hobby shop, but as mentioned before, I only want to invest in a power booster after exhausting other options.



CTValleyRR said:


> Easy fix. As Don said, basic rules of DCC.
> 1) Disconnect track feeders from EZ Command.
> 2) Connect them to a power distribution block or a terminal strip.
> 3) Connect 3 or more additional pairs of feeders to said terminal strip or distribution block. One goes to each service track, and one to the turntable bridge track. This last one must be wired through a DCC autoreversing unit, which may or may not already be incorporated into the turntable's circuitry.
> ...


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

I would check the Bachmann EZ Track unit and find out if you can add a booster to this. You might not be able to. This is a basic intro unit for one or two trains and its features are limited. Booster addition _may_ not be an option.


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## JStussy (Dec 31, 2020)

I believe the Walthers turntable I have also reverses the polarity, though, being a relative novice at model railroading, have never jumpered from one track to another. I've seen terminal strips that include jumpers, but am not sure how that works.


Mixed Freight said:


> To power your freight and passenger locomotive tracks, simply jumper over to them from any other track(s) that are already powered. Be sure and maintain proper polarity.
> 
> Turntable may or may not need special wiring, depending on brand. I have an Atlas N-scale turntable on my 4' x 8' layout that needs no special wiring. Hook 2 wires up to it for the track power. It automatically reverses polarity at a certain point of its rotation.


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## JStussy (Dec 31, 2020)

I believe the EZ Command Controller allows running of up to ten locomotives at once, though again, power might be an issue; I'll probably run a maximum of three engines at once. Bachmann does sell a 5-Amp Power Booster that connects with EZ Command, but given its price, I'd prefer not to use it if I don't absolutely have to.



MichaelE said:


> I would check the Bachmann EZ Track unit and find out if you can add a booster to this. You might not be able to. This is a basic intro unit for one or two trains and its features are limited. Booster addition _may_ not be an option.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

Is the turntable a DCC/indexed turntable, or just a plain DC/non-indexed turntable?

My Digitrax system feeds power to all rails on the layout, including to the Walther's 2006 'Built-Up' indexable bridge rails. The bridge's drive is a separate wall wart with its own bus, per Walthers' instructions. But the bridge rails, any radials and bay tracks, and all other tracks on the layout are controlled by the Digitrax.

In my turntable, the design is 'split rail' feeding of the tracks, meaning after the bridge moves 90 degrees from its lead approach, it reverses the polarity. This is necessary if your bays and radials are hard wired, but consonant with the rails around them in phase.


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## JStussy (Dec 31, 2020)

I believe it is an indexed turntable, as the instructions say "indexing can be programmed for up to 99 locations."



mesenteria said:


> Is the turntable a DCC/indexed turntable, or just a plain DC/non-indexed turntable?
> 
> My Digitrax system feeds power to all rails on the layout, including to the Walther's 2006 'Built-Up' indexable bridge rails. The bridge's drive is a separate wall wart with its own bus, per Walthers' instructions. But the bridge rails, any radials and bay tracks, and all other tracks on the layout are controlled by the Digitrax.
> 
> In my turntable, the design is 'split rail' feeding of the tracks, meaning after the bridge moves 90 degrees from its lead approach, it reverses the polarity. This is necessary if your bays and radials are hard wired, but consonant with the rails around them in phase.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

Duplicate


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

As a long time user of the Bachmann EZ DCC system
on a room size layout, I can assure
that you do NOT need a booster. The EZ can easily run 3, 4 and
more locos at the same time. I often ran 2-2 loco consists and
a 2 loco switcher consist at the same time...that's 6 locos!!

Since you say your turntable does have built in
phase (polarity) matching your wiring is simple.
Every track on your layout (including the INPUT
to the turntable TRACK) should be fed by the
EZ controller output either with a 2 wire track
bus or if you like neatness you can use
plain ordinary barrier strips. No need for any
costly devices.

The turntable motor must be powered by a
separate DC power source such as an
old DC power pack or wall wart of proper
voltage.

Don


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

MichaelE said:


> I would check the Bachmann EZ Track unit and find out if you can add a booster to this. You might not be able to. This is a basic intro unit for one or two trains and its features are limited. Booster addition _may_ not be an option.


You can. It has limited features, but it's a fully functional DCC unit.

The important point it that it's highly unlikely that he needs one for a layout that size. It's the power requirement of the turntable I was worried about, but on further review the motor is powered separately, so as far as the DCC system goes, it's just another section of track.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

JStussy said:


> I believe the EZ Command Controller allows running of up to ten locomotives at once, though again, power might be an issue; I'll probably run a maximum of three engines at once. Bachmann does sell a 5-Amp Power Booster that connects with EZ Command, but given its price, I'd prefer not to use it if I don't absolutely have to.


Be careful to distinguish between the number of addresses (10) that can be active simultaneously, and the number that can be running at the same time, which is solely a function of the available amperage. Amps would max out long before you got to ten locos.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

JStussy said:


> I believe the Walthers turntable I have also reverses the polarity, though, being a relative novice at model railroading, have never jumpered from one track to another. I've seen terminal strips that include jumpers, but am not sure how that works.


Power distribution blocks are hard wired, so that the inputs are at one end, and everything coming off the same side of the block is fed by the input on that side. No jumpers required. A terminal strip just has contacts. If you want more than one contact fed by the same source, you jumper them together. It's harder to explain than to do.


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## JStussy (Dec 31, 2020)

OK, thank you very much. If my understanding is correct, then, I should:

1) Connect the track feeders from my main line, as well as those on the two service tracks and the turntable bridge track, to a terminal strip.
2) Separate the wire that plugs directly into the EZ Command until I have a pair of bus wires I can attach to the terminal strip and connect back into the EZ Command Controller.

I'm definitely looking into purchasing a terminal strip, but as this is something I've never used before, I'm wondering:
1) The minimum size of terminal strip (i.e. how many screws on each side) I should get.
2) If I should make sure each screw on the terminal strip is occupied by only one individual track feeder.

Thanks again!!



CTValleyRR said:


> Easy fix. As Don said, basic rules of DCC.
> 1) Disconnect track feeders from EZ Command.
> 2) Connect them to a power distribution block or a terminal strip.
> 3) Connect 3 or more additional pairs of feeders to said terminal strip or distribution block. One goes to each service track, and one to the turntable bridge track. This last one must be wired through a DCC autoreversing unit, which may or may not already be incorporated into the turntable's circuitry.
> ...


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Yup. Tnat's all there is to it.

Your questions actually have the same answer, because the answer to #2 determines the answer to #1. I would say that it doesn't make a whole lot of difference, but since you probably don't need too many feeders, I'd just do one per contact.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

J

Yes, you are correct...ALL tracks on your layout from the
single track from the main layout section, on down including the
input wire for the turntable track are to be connected to
the pair from the EZ controller...and yes, snip off any
connector on the red EZ pair. You can then connect them
to a Barrier strip, to which you would connect the drops
from the tracks. It is important to make sure that the
RIGHT rail of all tracks is connected to ONE of the EZ
wires...and the LEFT rail of all tracks is connected to
the OTHER of the EZ wires. (it's a shame Bachmann did
not make these wires Red and Black).

I notice that we are dealing with only a lower section of
a larger layout. How are those tracks connected to
your EZ? Have we seen the whole layout in another
post?

Don


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## JStussy (Dec 31, 2020)

OK, thank you very much. I was just concerned that having more than one feeder on a contact/screw would result in some sort of electrical problem. I actually found an older railroad forum where someone asked the same question, and the respondent gave an explanation as well as the advice to not overthink it.



CTValleyRR said:


> Yup. Tnat's all there is to it.
> 
> Your questions actually have the same answer, because the answer to #2 determines the answer to #1. I would say that it doesn't make a whole lot of difference, but since you probably don't need too many feeders, I'd just do one per contact.


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## JStussy (Dec 31, 2020)

Hello,
Here is a picture of my complete layout plan for reference. Please disregard all the arrows, as they were used for measurements:









If you look closely, there is a feeder track on my main oval (at the bottom) with two small vertical lines and a horizontal line (marked "24.6") below it. This is the track with a feeder attached, and is where I would normally connect my EZ Command Controller. With the new arrangement mentioned above, though, I'll connect the feeders from this track to the terminal strip (along with the feeders from the turntable and service tracks) and then connect the bus wires from the EZ Command Controller.



DonR said:


> J
> 
> Yes, you are correct...ALL tracks on your layout from the
> single track from the main layout section, on down including the
> ...


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

J

Whoa...I have a very poor memory...have we reviewed the main section
of your layout plans? You have three 'reverse loop' situations that will
need special attention. If this has been covered, let us know, otherwise
we'll be glad to study the isolation tracks and where to put gaps to
avoid short circuits.

Don


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I had forgotten that this was your layout. Good idea to remind us when starting a new thread like this.

So Don is right. If you haven't addressed the reversing loops, you will need to do that by isolating track sections. Each of these sections requires its own set of feeders, connected to your terminal strip THROUGH an automated reversing unit. Any contiguous track NOT isolated with insulating joiners could theoretically be powered from a single set of feeders on a layout that size, but it's a better idea to have 2-3 sets spaced out around the layout.

Note that you do not need terminal tracks for this. You can buy pre-wired terminal joiners, or just solder the wires right to the rails yourself.


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## cv_acr (Oct 28, 2011)

.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

J

I have traced out your track plan. 

We will consider the entire X in the center
of your layout including all turnouts as your
MAIN track. The lead to the yard and
turntable will also be considered MAIN track.
Each curved end, left and right,will be 'isolated sections'.
You will need two Reverse loop controllers, one for
each of the 'isolated sections'

You will need Gaps in both rails:
1. To the left of The Upper Left turnout
2. To the right of the Upper Right turnout
3. Below the extreme Left turnout (to yard and turntable)
4. To left of Lower left turnout
5. To Right of Lower Right turnout.

Because it is critical that you carefully wire the
tracks of the X and the turnouts creating
it, I recommend that you use Red and Black
coded wires through out. Terminate the two
Red Bachmann wires and connect them to RED
and BLACK coded wires for your Main bus and
track drops. 

The TOP rail of the track between the two TOP turnouts
Must be RED.
The BOTTOM rail of the track between the two TOP turnouts
Must be BLACK.
The TOP rail of the 2 lower tracks between the two
Bottom turnouts Must be RED
The BOTTOM rail of the 2 lower tracks between the two
Bottom turnouts Must be BLACK.

To explain the reasoning of this suggestion. We are using
the 4 turnouts and the crossing to create a 'double crossover'
as if between the two tracks of double track. This means that
the two ends of the 'oval' must become isolated sections. The
center X section is NOT used as the 'isolated section' since
it has FOUR access points. It's likely that wo trains could attemp
to enter at the same time...that would result in a short circuit.

The lead to the yard and turntable must be MAIN track 
since the turntable has a reverse circuit and you cannot
have two reverse circuits abut.

The wiring is quite simple.
Track drops to the DCC Bus as follows
Upper track connecting the arms of the X
Lower track connecting the arms of the X
Lead to the yard and turntable.
Input to each reverse loop controller.
The output of reverse controller 1 will
connect to the left 'isolated section'.
The output of reverse controller 2 will
connect to the right 'isolated section'.

Since you are using a Bachmann EZ DCC system
you can use Bachmann reverse loop 
controllers. However, any other make reverse
controller will also work.

Don


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## JStussy (Dec 31, 2020)

Thank you all for your replies. Yes, I will have two Bachmann auto-reversing modules attached to my layout, as the figure-8 configuration essentially means I'll have two reversing loops, and in corresponding with the folks at my model railroad club, have figured out where to put insulated gaps in the rails. 









I've also included a diagram of a terminal strip and where I'd potentially make connections between all of the wires. If the diagram is incorrect, though, please let me know.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

No, your diagram is not correct.
ALL of the wires to tracks, to turntable 'service' tracks
and to the track terminals on the turntable are
fed by your EZ DCC bus wires. The inputs to
the Reverse loop controllers are also fed by your
EZ DCC bus wires.

Note: The barrier screws are shunted bottom to top.
They are NOT connected laterally.

In short, your EZ DCC output goes to all screw terminals
on the bottom of the terminal strip (in pairs)...Many of
us use jumpers to power the bottom screws. The wires to the
tracks (main and service) the turntable and the
inputs to the reverse controllers go on the
top series of terminals. It's OK to have two
pairs on the same pair of screws. Be sure to observe phase
(polarity).

Don


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Concur with Don... your wiring wouldn't even be correct for a distribution block, where ALL the terminals on one side are wired to the same input.

As Don said, each terminal on one side (the bottom, for example), passes electricity only to the terminal directly across from it. If you want the same input to feed more than one wire on the opposite side, you jumper those terminals together (either on the input or output side, it doesn't matter). The way you have it set up, only the two left-most wires on the top side would be hot.


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## JStussy (Dec 31, 2020)

Ah, OK. Please forgive my ignorance and lack of technical/electrical knowledge. If my understanding is correct, then, I should connect the EZ Command bus wires (of which there is one pair) to a jumper, then connect that jumper to the bottom row of a terminal strip. From what I've read about the EZ Command Auto Reversing Module (of which I'll be using two that I've purchased), the input goes to the "main" track and the output goes to the "loop" track, so I may have to do a bit of reconfiguring if a terminal strip is involved.



DonR said:


> No, your diagram is not correct.
> ALL of the wires to tracks, to turntable 'service' tracks
> and to the track terminals on the turntable are
> fed by your EZ DCC bus wires. The inputs to
> ...


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

We fully understand that you are not experienced with
electricity. But you have a very simple situation and 
want to keep it simple.

Think of it this way...you have a power strip plugged
into a wall outlet. You plug into it a lamp, a phone charger, and
an electric clock. That is exactly what you have on your
layout...the EZ DCC pair terminal is your POWER STRIP. The various tracks
and reverse modules 'plug' into it. 

Thus; the EZ DCC control wires power every track on your layout, the two
reverse 'loop's get the DCC power THROUGH the reverse
modules so they get the EZ DCC power. The turntable track
gets it's current from the EZ DCC power also.
The terminal strip is what you have elected to use
to connect the various track drops to the EZ DCC

You are correct...the input of each of the reversing modules is connected
to your main DCC pair. The output of each goes to the isolated section
'loop' it is to control. it doesn't have to go to the terminal strip but it can.

You'll have two jumpers..one for each wire of the DCC pair. So be
careful to see that you maintain 'phase' (polarity) as you 'jump' them
to the bottom screws of the terminal strip. It would have been
easier to maintain polarity if Bachmann had used Red and Black wires instead of
two red ones.

Don


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I wholeheartedly agree with Don that we are not criticizing your lack of electrical knowledge. No one is born understanding wiring / electricity. It comes easier to some than others. Keep at it, and you'll get it.

Don provided a good explanation for exactly how to wire things. I'm going to see if I can't give you that "aha" moment that makes it all clear to you. I think at least part of your problem is that you are approaching the problem from a "how do I do THIS?" mentality rather than understanding the broader principles to apply. I think you're also letting the reversing modules throw you. You can actually IGNORE those as you sort out the wiring. You just need to install them in the circuit before things will run. Likewise the TT bridge: it's just another section of track that needs it's own power supply.

So don't approach this from a "how do I hook up these wires" but from a "how does electricity get from point a to point b and back again?" perspective. That's why it's called a "circuit" (same as "circle"). Point A is your "source", your DCC command station. Point B is your "load", or the thing you are trying to power (the actual load is really the decoder in your loco and the outputs attached to it, which complete the circuit by bridging the rails). In this case, an individual section of track. It goes out through one set of wires, and comes back through a different set. It's helpful if you can actually use 2 different colors of wire to do this; then it's harder to screw up. "Out" will always connect to the same rail (left or right, from the engineers view), and "in" will be the other rail. That's what Don means when he says "keep the polarity correct". In the absence of a reversing loop, this is all you need to do. The point of using multiple feeders is that copper wires (especially thicker ones) conduct electricity much better than non-continuous pieces of nickel-silver (actually a copper alloy) and tiny little slip-on joiners. So it works better if the electricity has an alternative path with better conductivity to get to points farther away from the source. As long as the polarity is correct, there is no physical limit to the number of feeders (although there is a practical one).

NOW you have to bring the reversing loops into the equation. In this situation, what started out as the left rail actually becomes the right one (trace it with your finger), which will cause a short if you don't do some thing about it. So you isolate that section of track and give it it's own set of feeders and a reverse loop controller, so that it can swap the polarity of the inputs at will, thus avoiding a short circuit (as long as you don't simultaneously bridge BOTH sets of insulating joiners).

When trying to envision wiring, trace the flow of power with your finger. If electricity has no path (like between two adjacent pairs of terminals on your terminal strip), then you have to create one. The easiest way to do this is to use a U-shaped piece of metal or wire (called a jumper) to connect them. Atlas used to sell metal jumpers to connect terminals together; I don't know if they still do. Because each pair of terminals is isolated from the inevitable next to it, you don't have to use two separate terminal strips, but it might help keep the "out" (positive) separate from the "in" (negative) paths. 

I know it's long, but I hope that it helps.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Just received my January 2022 issue of Model Railroader magazine yesterday. It has a very good article on basic wiring, and some additional recommendations for further reading. You might want to pick up a copy, or see if you can find it in a library.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Actually, it would possibly simply things if you
would use two terminal strips one for the 'Red'
wire (from the EZ controller), the other for the 'black' wire. All of the
lower screws of the 'Red' terminal would be wired together and
the Red wire also goes on one. Then the same is
done with the 'Black' terminal with the 'black' wire
from the EZ goes on one.

You connect the 'red' track wires to the upper screws
of the 'red' wire terminal and the 'black track wires to
the upper screws of the 'black' terminal.

That helps to maintain correct polarity.

Don


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## JStussy (Dec 31, 2020)

OK, that seems to be simpler. My question, though, is how I would connect the jumpers to the wires without soldering.




DonR said:


> Actually, it would possibly simply things if you
> would use two terminal strips one for the 'Red'
> wire (from the EZ controller), the other for the 'black' wire. All of the
> lower screws of the 'Red' terminal would be wired together and
> ...


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I would designate one strip as RED the other as BLACK.
Then always put red track wires on the red terminal strip and
the blacks always on the black terminal strip.

To connect the EZ DCC wires to the terminal strips
do as follows:

You simply wrap one of the stranded EZ DCC wires around one
of the bottom screw terminals of the Red strip along with the first of the
jumpers. I would use a single wire as a jumper. Wrap it
around every screw on the bottom row of screws. 

Do the same with the other EZ DCC wire on the Black
terminal strip.

If you need an extension of the EZ DCC wires I would use
a ' wire nut' to connect the red EZ wires to the extension
red and black wires. 

The metal strap from the bottom screws to the track wires
on the top row of screws makes the final connection.



Don


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

JStussy said:


> OK, that seems to be simpler. My question, though, is how I would connect the jumpers to the wires without soldering.


Wire don't have to be soldered to conduct electricity. They just need to be firmly in contact with each other. This is the principle behind wire nuts, screw terminals, suitcase connectors, and so on.

As Don said, use a single piece of wire (without insulation) as a jumper. Or buy some. You can get ones that fit over the plastic strip between pairs of terminals (like this: Amazon.com ) or ones that plug inf from the side (like this: https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a1507...Z7G,B01CND6ZZU,B07DM28J52&srpt=TERMINAL_BLOCK ).

Obviously (I hope), you don't need ones that are rated at 400v and 30A (15v, and about 3 amps, depending on what your dcc system puts out), but remember that those are maximums, not individual specs. A little research can help you find ones best suited to your application, but the point is you have to get electricity flowing between the terminals, not that you have to use these.

Soldering: you seem to be afraid of it. It's not that hard, really. If a ham-fisted klutz like me can learn to do it, anyone can. But like all skills, we're not born knowing how, so there is a learning curve. However, it's kind of an essential skill in this hobby, so learning how to do it would be a good idea.


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## JStussy (Dec 31, 2020)

Ah, OK. If my understanding is correct, then, I can run one wire around all screws on one side of a terminal strip, then do the same with the other wire and additional terminal strip so I don't have to worry too much about polarity. There is also a soldering iron at my model railroad club, so I figure I can learn how to use it at some point.



CTValleyRR said:


> Wire don't have to be soldered to conduct electricity. They just need to be firmly in contact with each other. This is the principle behind wire nuts, screw terminals, suitcase connectors, and so on.
> 
> As Don said, use a single piece of wire (without insulation) as a jumper. Or buy some. You can get ones that fit over the plastic strip between pairs of terminals (like this: Amazon.com ) or ones that plug inf from the side (like this: https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a15071300ux0988-Postions-Terminal-Jumper/dp/B0143YQ9OE/ref=sr_1_14?gclid=CjwKCAiA4veMBhAMEiwAU4XRr6CaCuKIOxun94l2_3gFOYJ67nsB2qdD5Hvn5CwSVbFiKqlTl4uknBoC-HMQAvD_BwE&hvadid=177315598066&hvdev=t&hvlocphy=9003329&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=16783875729695528455&hvtargid=kwd-5662116587&hydadcr=18913_9698567&keywords=terminal+strip+jumpers&qid=1637762748&qsid=137-5431658-7819110&sr=8-14&sres=B07GJJB23N,B000K2IL1I,B07CLW5FPS,B08D3J19FT,B07GJFPCRM,B0084LH4ZG,B07Q81QSJJ,B07NVV28D9,B07FTMDMCJ,B0143YQ9OE,B000K2MBBY,B08D3H52KV,B00R1WTS9O,B01IJIGZ7G,B01CND6ZZU,B07DM28J52&srpt=TERMINAL_BLOCK ).
> 
> ...


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

You are correct. You have one terminal strip for the 'red' wire (from the EZ)
and another for the 'black' wire. (or whatever colors you use).
Thus, when you have a track drop it's 'red' wire goes on 'red' terminal
strip and it's 'black' wire goes on the 'black' terminal strip. If you have
connected the wires to the track consistently then the polarity
is automatic. If you have more track drops than screws it is
alright to put more than one track drop wire on a screw.

Don


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## JStussy (Dec 31, 2020)

Thank you for all of your replies. I consulted with the folks at my local model railroad club, and the club president said I could connect both the positive and negative wires to one terminal strip so long as they're not in contact with each other. I've included a diagram for your review.








Please let me know what you think of this idea.


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## Steve Rothstein (Jan 1, 2021)

JStussy said:


> Thank you for all of your replies. I consulted with the folks at my local model railroad club, and the club president said I could connect both the positive and negative wires to one terminal strip so long as they're not in contact with each other. I've included a diagram for your review.
> 
> Please let me know what you think of this idea.


That is very close to how I wired my layout. I don't know about the turntable since I don't have one, but I wired my feeders that way.


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## GNfan (Jun 3, 2016)

Back when you went to Radio Shack for that kind of thing, there were different lengths of "bridges" that went under the screws on one side or another. You need two "threes", one for the leftmost 3 upper screws, and another for the rightmost 3 ,upper screws. I don't remember what they're called.


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## JStussy (Dec 31, 2020)

Do you mean jumpers, like these?








I had considered purchasing some, but was told that if I simply wrap each of the two wires from my EZ Command around three of the top screws, I won't necessarily need a jumper.




GNfan said:


> Back when you went to Radio Shack for that kind of thing, there were different lengths of "bridges" that went under the screws on one side or another. You need two "threes", one for the leftmost 3 upper screws, and another for the rightmost 3 ,upper screws. I don't remember what they're called.


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## GNfan (Jun 3, 2016)

Ok, if I google image search "terminal block jumpers" and sort through the pictures I find this:









and that's what Radio Shack sold next to the OP's picture of a "terminal block" circa 1980. They were kind of brittle and could be broken into smaller parts with pliers.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

You can buy jumpers that connect on barrier terminal to another, cheap and much easier than hassling the wire around the screws. That what I used and like your wiring I split the terminal barrier strip into 2 parts. Another nice thing about the jumpers is that you can use both sides as the jump is like a flat connection. Search "terminal barrier strip jumpers" on amazon for some examples.


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## Steve Rothstein (Jan 1, 2021)

Sorry, this may be a little late for you, but maybe others might read this and see it. This is the distribution block I used. It has two screws at the end that you connect the two wires from the controller to. Each side is already prejumpered so that the screws on that side share the input from the screw on the end. You can run 12 feeders off of it and then run the main signal to a second block daisy chaining them if you need more. It has worked for me to get the power to multiple feeders on my layout for the past year. 









Amazon.com: PCB007 1X 12 Position Power Distribution Board 2 Inputs 2 x 13 Outputs for DC AC Voltage New : Arts, Crafts & Sewing


Buy PCB007 1X 12 Position Power Distribution Board 2 Inputs 2 x 13 Outputs for DC AC Voltage New: Control & Power Supplies - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



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I have no experience with turntables, but I am curious about yours. When you say the wires were going to the turntable, were you referring to powering the turntable track or the motor for the turntable to move? I understand the need to run a set of feeders to the track but I thought it would need an auto-reverser. Is that built into the turntable itself? I thought the motor required a different, straight DC accessory power feed is why I ask.


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## JStussy (Dec 31, 2020)

No worries, I'm still very much in the design and planning phase. I'll most certainly have to check that particular block out. In terms of turntable wires, I was referring to those powering the turntable track. The turntable I've purchased has its own separate DC power supply, and I believe it has its own auto reverser which is activated when the bridge passes a certain point.



Steve Rothstein said:


> Sorry, this may be a little late for you, but maybe others might read this and see it. This is the distribution block I used. It has two screws at the end that you connect the two wires from the controller to. Each side is already prejumpered so that the screws on that side share the input from the screw on the end. You can run 12 feeders off of it and then run the main signal to a second block daisy chaining them if you need more. It has worked for me to get the power to multiple feeders on my layout for the past year.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

The turn table probably has a split ring pickup for the track, which results in it automatically taking care of the reverse problem. You might check to see it that's what is has and make sure the split is in a spot that has no tracks when its engaged. Don't connect an auto-reverser as it may trigger as the wipers move across the split.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

So you may remember that I suggested the distribution blocks show by Steve way back at the beginning, Yes, these are more convenient, They're also bulkier and more expensive. The choice is yours.

For the OP, the diagram you have in post #40 will work just fine. HOWEVER, using the single terminal block for both poles makes it much more likely that you will inadvertantly short your system by connecting the wires backwards (that is the wrong polarity to the wrong rail). Since you're having some troubles with this, I'd use two, just as an added measure of insurance.


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## JStussy (Dec 31, 2020)

Indeed. I've spent quite some time consulting with the folks at my model railroad club, so I figure I can ask them about polarity as well. The club president also told me there may be a few unused terminal strips sitting around, but if I can't find one to use, I found some on Amazon for relatively cheap (just over $5).



CTValleyRR said:


> So you may remember that I suggested the distribution blocks show by Steve way back at the beginning, Yes, these are more convenient, They're also bulkier and more expensive. The choice is yours.
> 
> For the OP, the diagram you have in post #40 will work just fine. HOWEVER, using the single terminal block for both poles makes it much more likely that you will inadvertantly short your system by connecting the wires backwards (that is the wrong polarity to the wrong rail). Since you're having some troubles with this, I'd use two, just as an added measure of insurance.


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## JStussy (Dec 31, 2020)

I believe that is the case with my turntable, as it has a "No Track" area where (I believe) they recommend no tracks be connected. My theory (and I'll have to verify this) is that the polarity is reversed once the bridge crosses this area.



Lemonhawk said:


> The turn table probably has a split ring pickup for the track, which results in it automatically taking care of the reverse problem. You might check to see it that's what is has and make sure the split is in a spot that has no tracks when its engaged. Don't connect an auto-reverser as it may trigger as the wipers move across the split.


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