# Newbie Questions



## icrr (Jan 21, 2015)

I'm a newbie and will have lots of questions. I was going to do Z scale, but decided on N for several reasons. I needed to go small because of space limitations.

Here are a couple of initial questions:
1. I'm going to have to build my layout as modules. What is the way to run track from one module to the next?
2. My primary track may be Kato's (although I'm thinking of using Peco's Code 55), but I will need to run some flex track as well. What is the best way of connecting the the two types of track?

Thanks.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

Your 1rst question, about bridging the joint between modules;has been a problem for many non-newbies for decades. Not so much joining the track(though there are problems inherent in that too*) ; but in making the joint track blend in with the two sides and not look quite so glaring like what it is. There have been several methods developed over time; and I'll list a couple that I've used or seen. Doubtless there are others, but members of this forum will post their favorites.
* As far as physically joining the track; the nagging problem has always been, not leaving rail gaps big enough to derail a passing train. A lift out short section can be used, with the track on either side cut back just enough to allow insertion of the short "bridging" section.
This has the advantage of putting the main track back far enough from the module's end to prevent damage when disassembled, moved, and re-assembled. It is the method I would recommend if the modules will go through this repeatedly. (Example: going to train shows.) One problem with this method,(and others) is how to insert the rail joiners.
These are the little flat metal sleeves that slide onto adjacent rails at each spot where rails join end-to-end. Unless the rail joiners can be slid back extra far enough to clear the end of the rail: then you have trouble trying to get all four joiners properly connecting their respective rails. One thing that can eliminate this trouble, is a specially made track piece which stretches. The rails are built to telescope in and out, which aids connection greatly. I don't know if these are available in N-scale, the ones I've seen were HO-scale.
Another method is to run the track right up to the very end of the modules, then join them right there. This,of course, is more susceptible to damage and still requires that joiners slide out of the way. ( cutting back a few spikes from the rail end will allow this.)
As for the Track brands you mentioned, I haven't used either Kato, or Peco, so I don't know.

Good Luck.
Traction Fan.


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## icrr (Jan 21, 2015)

Thanks for tge suggestions. The expandibg track idea sounds pretty good and one of Kato's pieces is an expantiontrack (78-108mm).

So, have another question, albeit curiosity at thus point. Has anyone tried making a "ballast putty" or "ballast paste"? My thinking is along the lines of spreading the ballast BEFORE laying the track. What I envision is asoft, toothpaste cobsistency upon which the track is laid and gently pressed down until the putty comes up through the ties. It is then allowed to dry. The only problem I see with thus right now is removing any excess from the tops of ties and from the rails. Thanks again.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

One of our members, Rusty Cuda, had a good ballast idea. He
attached Electricians tape (or similar) to the bottom of the
track then applied the ballast and pressed it to the sticky 
between the ties. No mess, no cleanup.

Don


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## icrr (Jan 21, 2015)

I have more questions. Does PECO make a 90 degree crossing (not crossover) for their Code 55 track? Can Code 80 and Code 55 track be mixed if you ensure the rail tops aare at the same level? I think Atlas has a Code 55 crossing, but the arms are extremely long. PECO makes an HO version of what I want. More questions later


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## WaltP (Jan 21, 2013)

I'm told Peco track code 55/80 is all the same rail. The difference is Peco 55 is set deeper into the ties. Therefore it seems you can go from Kato to Atlas to Peco 80 and 55 without a problem with rail height. But if you're going to use code 80 in a lot of places, why not just use code 80?

Doesn't look like Peco make a 90-crossing. If the Atlas is too long, just trim the rails to size with a saw or rail nippers.


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## icrr (Jan 21, 2015)

Kato makes a nice small 90 crossing. If it iss the only one that size I can find then I wanted to use the Kato code 80 crossing with the peck or atlass 55 -- if I switch from 80.

So here's another question Since I've not done this before. How do I connect flex track to unitrack? I have Kato's snaptrack adapter, but the sleepers from the flex track is in the way and I don't know how to remove one or two of them and whether this is the only problem.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Some undercut the ties from the rails enough
to permit the joiner to slide on. This can be
done with a razor saw. Others remove
a tie completely then after the joiners are
installed slip it back under.

Don


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