# Newbie to all this!!!



## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

My grandfather passed away 2 years from yesterday. He worked for the railroad for 35+years.He traveled all over New England for his work. When he passed away he had just bought a 14foot by 30 foot shed. He planned on finally setting up his ho collection.
Well that never happen  Before he passed he told me to go through it and keep what i wanted for his great grandson (My son). Well the time has come!!! I just moved into my new condo and i have a full basement and have room to set a smaller sized layout. I am thinking a 4'x6' Just so i can still have some room for other Hobbies. I know 4'x6' does not give me a whole lot of room  But it is something at least So i guess my questions are what should i be looking for when i go through his collection? I know he spent serious money on this stuff!! I don't have any info on what he has at this point.
Where should i even start looking at stuff like track layout? 
Basically i need a layout for dummies?
Any info would be very appreciated and i know my grandfather would be thrilled to see something setup out of all his stuff


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Max,

Sorry for your loss, though it's heartwarming that your grandfather's train enthusiasm will be passed down to your son, too.

There's lots of intro stuff available on the 'net. Here' just a couple of things I'd suggest ...

http://www.nmra.org/ -- National Model Railroad Assoc.
http://www.nmra.org/beginner/ -- Their beginner's guide ... menu on the right

http://www.thortrains.net/ -- Thor ... not the easiest site to navigage, but they show lots of "canned" HO layouts on different table sizes.

You might start with a written inventory of what it is you actually have on hand ... cars, control system, track, accessories, etc.

Regards,

TJ


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

Thanks for the fast response!!! This has always been a childhood dream of mine to set one up so i guess this is for me too!!
I have to sort through all of the stuff that he has. that is going to take some time because like i said there is a TON of stuff. I moved only about 1/4 mile from my gram mother now. so anytime i have some free time i can just run across the street and start sorting through everything.
I have started to scower the interwebs and it seems a bit overwhelming with all the info so i really appreciate the useful links


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## thetramp (Dec 14, 2012)

My layout is a 4 X 6. It is all the room I have. Here is a web site with 4 X 6's. Look at them and make it to your liking.

http://www.thortrains.net/nscale/homini1a.html


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

Set up a small loop and run some of the stuff and see what you like.


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

Thanks for all the great links guys!!! I guess my first step is start sorting through boxes here in the next few days hopefully! Then from there i think i can start looking at track designs. Are there any major things i need to watch out for?


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## Carl (Feb 19, 2012)

Have fun !!!!!!!!!!!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Max,

The big question affecting your choice/options of layout is what type of train control system do you have? Conventional DC (direct current to each loco), in which case, you'll need to set up individually powered "blocks" on each section of track to run/control multiple trains. Or, modern DCC digital control, where a code signal is sent out to the whole track, and each loco has a "decoder" that interprets if a signal/command is meant for it. Here, you can run multiple trains all on one, complex track layout.

For the latter, you need the control system, and each loco needs to have an onboard decoder. Conventional locos (without decoders) can usually be modified to incorporate one.

Regards,

TJ


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## timlange3 (Jan 16, 2013)

Is it possible to make a narrow shelf railroad around the room? You can make it high enough to be above furniture. This would give you a longer run length, easy access to all tracks (and cars), and take up zero floor space. A custom build step/stool/platform for your son for ease of access until he is taller (not that long!) This would give your son hands on to the entire railroad to keep his interest up. It could also be raised/lowered as needed. An even narrower second level to display trains not running.


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## RUSTY Cuda (Aug 28, 2012)

I've been messing with my Dads stuff for the last year or so, you came to the right place, the guys are great & help out whenever they can.:thumbsup: 
learning what is the good stuff & what are the typical train set stuff (meant more for kids) helps too,you probably don't want to put a 200 dollar engine in the hands of most 6 year olds.
Save those for when they learn to handle with care, believe me, some of these are delicate, don't ask how I know 
I'm having a ball setting up my first layout , enjoy,Rich.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Welcome to the site.

A 5' x 9' would be better if you can. Most start out small and build a bigger one shortly after anyway.

If you start with the biggest space you can afford from the get go you might save your self a rebuild.

Unless you like to build and tear it down and do it over. 
We have a few members who seem to enjoy doing that. 

As in part of my signature.
There is NEVER enough room for the trains.


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

tjcruiser said:


> Max,
> 
> The big question affecting your choice/options of layout is what type of train control system do you have? Conventional DC (direct current to each loco), in which case, you'll need to set up individually powered "blocks" on each section of track to run/control multiple trains. Or, modern DCC digital control, where a code signal is sent out to the whole track, and each loco has a "decoder" that interprets if a signal/command is meant for it. Here, you can run multiple trains all on one, complex track layout.
> 
> ...


Honestly i am not sure what there he has for a control system  So i guess i will have to start digging around. I am sure it is a decent one 
i doubt its a dcc but i will look around the shed and see what i can find


timlange3 said:


> Is it possible to make a narrow shelf railroad around the room? You can make it high enough to be above furniture. This would give you a longer run length, easy access to all tracks (and cars), and take up zero floor space. A custom build step/stool/platform for your son for ease of access until he is taller (not that long!) This would give your son hands on to the entire railroad to keep his interest up. It could also be raised/lowered as needed. An even narrower second level to display trains not running.


I like that idea but its not going to work with the room its going to be in  But might take part of your advice and not do a 4x6 and maybe change up the design a little bit. At this point Half of the room i am using for my hobby room is being used as storage (we just moved 2 weeks ago) And the other half as this







RUSTY Cuda said:


> I've been messing with my Dads stuff for the last year or so, you came to the right place, the guys are great & help out whenever they can.:thumbsup:
> learning what is the good stuff & what are the typical train set stuff (meant more for kids) helps too,you probably don't want to put a 200 dollar engine in the hands of most 6 year olds.
> Save those for when they learn to handle with care, believe me, some of these are delicate, don't ask how I know
> I'm having a ball setting up my first layout , enjoy,Rich.


Its funny that you say that about trains and young kids!! I remember when i was about 8. My grand father had a really nice Boston and Maine locomotive sitting on the headboard of his bed in a glass case. I pulled the case off to check it out  Broke a bunch of the wheels (because i didn't know better being so young) My grandfather was so upset it was like i killed a family member. I just remember him saying "Chris I am SO disappointed In You" I am 27 years old now and i still remember that to this day .
He had been collecting all this stuff for 40+years so i am sure there is some really nice stuff in there


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

Ok guys i think i have made a decision on what size setup i am going with. I will start this off by saying i Like to be different 
i have made chalk outlines of a few different sizes and i came up with a "L" Now the long part would be 6 foot and 3 foot wide and the bottom part would be 3 foot wide and 3 foot long... Has anybody had any luck with a similar design? I was thinking i could make it into 3 3'x3' sections in case i need to move at some point and it would easy to deal with 
let me know if this is even possibly being only 3 feet wide?


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Standard HO track radius (measured to midpoint between rails) is 15", 18", and 22". The 15" stuff is too tight for many larger locos. 18" is common, and 22" is needed for larger locos.

At 3' wide, you won't fit an 18" 180-deg turn. Minimum for that is about 40", leaving a little edge-of-death margin.

You could bend your own curves with flextrack ... quite common. But still, 3' could be limiting for larger trains.

Plenty of people have fun with "micro layouts", though ... so I'm not trying to scare you away ... just pointing out some fundamentals.

TJ


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

tjcruiser said:


> Standard HO track radius (measured to midpoint between rails) is 15", 18", and 22". The 15" stuff is too tight for many larger locos. 18" is common, and 22" is needed for larger locos.
> 
> At 3' wide, you won't fit an 18" 180-deg turn. Minimum for that is about 40", leaving a little edge-of-death margin.
> 
> ...


That was my going to be my other question... Thanks for the quick answer. its either design or 4x6. those are the only 2 designs that i think that would work in the location that its going :/ i wish i had more room and more options but that is what i got to work with


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

well doing some looking around on the interwebs and i came across these layouts 
What do you guys think?








basically the 2 on top of the page here 
http://www.thortrains.net/nscale/homini1b.html


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Maddmax either of those layouts will give you a lot of fun. The main thing is what TJ said about the track radius. It needs to be 18" or greater (22") so the smallest dimension of the table needs to be 4 feet. 4x6 is good so you can reach all the back areas of the table. Also make the height of the table just at your waist. That will be comfortable and you can get under the table for wiring without folding yourself in half. I had a little mechanics stool on wheels that I could sit on and roll from side to side under the table. I'm 6'2" so having enough room under the table was just as important to me as what was on the table.
You should go back and read some of Rusty Cuda's threads as he is going through the same thing you are. Keep us posted with lots of pictures and we will help all we can. Just remember this is all supposed to fun so don't make a big job out of it. It's not that complicated. pete


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

Thanks for All the advice guys... Starting to sort through things. This is what I got on this trip and another box of track









Sent from the woods of New England


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## RUSTY Cuda (Aug 28, 2012)

If your grandfather was anything like my Dad you have a lot of work ahead of you,but it's at least the fun kinda work. sort stuff out as best you can, box like items together, freight cars, pass cars, steam engines, etc etc. will make it a little easier when your lookin for something later. 
Looks like a good start! have fun,Rich.


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

Rusty it seems like were going through this together!!! Your a lot farther than me but its nice to be able to look through your thread and use it as a reference point.
Well after going through some of the stuff i have realized that there is ton more boxes somewhere in that shed!!! i only found the Sante Fe engine and that's it I saw some more boxes today when i went over there but i have to sort through all the other stuff to get to the good stuff. This weekend i am headed to home depot to get some supplies for a 4x6 table Any suggestions when i build this table?

the tall box is all bendable track after i bend it am i suppose to cut the plastic off to keep the metal even with the end?


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## RUSTY Cuda (Aug 28, 2012)

Can't help much with the tables, everyone does em different, mine are 30 or 40 years old, 1/2 ply with 3/4" "beaver board" on top. mine are all in 2'x something(4' 6' 8' ) sections, I had to cut up his main 8x4 table.
On the flex track, yes, & you may have to cut the rail too, if it's arched all one way one will get longer that the other.
I've had the trains up in my attic for 7or8 years now, just started pulling it down last spring, then I started in the fall some time bringing over the rest of the accessories & tables.
Started as a diorama, mushroomed into the mess you see now!  
The good thing is I lost 10 lbs & colestarol went down, usually gain a few in the winters(slow time at work)  Rich.


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

Build it in sections. My layout has been it four different homes in it's fifty plus year. Last year I started a major expansion.So far I have added a three foot shelf around to of the walls. At the end of one I expanded it to 43 so that I could make a loop and have the trains come back to the old section.

I made the new sections in eight foot section so that if I ever need to move it I can.


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

Ok guys I need advice on building the table... are 2x3s sufficient enough for a 4x6 table? 

Sent from the woods of New England


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

maddmax said:


> Ok guys I need advice on building the table... are 2x3s sufficient enough for a 4x6 table?
> 
> Sent from the woods of New England



Yep. 2x3 is fine for that size.


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

ya, what Ed said.


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

Any other suggestions on building the table? i plan on building it in 2 sections. If i have to move it it will be able to come up the stairs without an issue


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## golfermd (Apr 19, 2013)

Sorry for your loss. Your son will be a very lucky guy. You have a veritable treasure trove to work with. As an engineer I would figure out what you want your layout to be then start designing the elements you want to have in it. Then it becomes a more manageable project. Best of luck.

Dan


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Build the table with screws and put braces on the legs. No nails in the frame so you can change it if you want. Drill pilot holes for the screws too. Pete


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

Ok guys well i have been busy today  Its not perfect but not bad for a first timer. Let me know if i should change anything before i start laying down track after dinner


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## RUSTY Cuda (Aug 28, 2012)

Table looks fine. :thumbsup:
Are you really tall, can you reach the back corner, or pull the table out enough to squeeze in there? 
Looking at that pile a flex track I think you need more table, looks like enough to run a loop around the whole house! 
I think you have the same problem as me, way too much stuff & way too little space to showcase it!  Rich.


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

It is no big enough. LOL You need more track.

Can you remove the leg even after you have added train stuff to the top? I made all of my legs removable.


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

I wish i could make it bigger!!! But that is all the room i have Yes all the legs are removable the base is made out of 2 sections(3x4)


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

can anyone explain how i am suppose to lay down the cork on a corner?


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## johnd603 (Mar 4, 2012)

Sure! Slit it right down the center of the cork roadbed with an x-acto knife and a metal straight-edge.. Draw out the radius on your plywood, and lay the first half, then lay the "other half".. the inside "radius" of the bed will be a tad longer after you complete the curve - so trim it flush when mating the bed to a straight section...

Can't wait to see your layout take shape - so please post pics as it progresses!

John


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

It looks like you have enough track.
Maybe add some plywood down the bottom for storage?

How about squeezing a little more layout in by adding 2 extensions on the sides like this?
Leave room in the middle for working?

Just a thought.


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

I was actually thinking about doing that on, the left side for a yard. ,I was thinking 2x3 but I still have to unpack more so I can have more room for the rest of my junk/"treasures" as my gf calls it  Any other suggestions before I start laying Down cork and track?

Sent from the woods of New England


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

maddmax said:


> I was actually thinking about doing that on, the left side for a yard. ,I was thinking 2x3 but I still have to unpack more so I can have more room for the rest of my junk/"treasures" as my gf calls it  Any other suggestions before I start laying Down cork and track?
> 
> Sent from the woods of New England


Before you start think about the extensions so you can plan where the the track will go.
Why not on the left side too?

And most importantly TELL YOUR GIRLFRIEND TO BITE HER TONGUE or she will be barred from entering the man cave!  

Sounds like mine.
See her reaction as you walk around your main living area with a measuring tape, measuring the ceilings. 
Tell her your planning a RR for all along the top of the rooms, complete with tunnels for going into the other rooms. 

We have some threads here of what some did like that, one member built his new house planning that into the design.
Heck maybe she will like the ideal, though I think I know what she will say about doing it.:smilie_daumenneg:


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

This is what I am, thinking for a design you can see at the top left where i can hook right up into a extension 
i cant do it on the side because there isn't a lot of room in the basement and it will be hard to move around 
And i plan messing with the gf a little later 
ps excuse the mess









Sent from the woods of New England


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Man you did that quick!
I see screws holding it down already?
They look a little too big?

And I see that you added a switch going to the yard if you decide to put in an extension. :thumbsup:

Edit,
You must have been editing while I was typing.


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

big ed said:


> Man you did that quick!
> I see screws holding it down already?
> They look a little too big?
> 
> ...


I started it last night!!!! I screwed it down because it was sliding all over the place and it was driving me crazy So i am going to outline a little later and then take it all back apart. And yes i added the switch as a suggestion from you Ed! That's why i like forums and i am open to always suggestions :thumbsup:


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

Getting some cork down :thumbup:









Sent from the woods of New England


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## johnd603 (Mar 4, 2012)

Looks GREAT!



John


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## RUSTY Cuda (Aug 28, 2012)

Your Rockin, you'll have a loop running in no time! :thumbsup:


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

Stopping for tonight. ..., maybe?









Sent from the woods of New England


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

well It is official!!!!! I am done for tonight  But i have decided that i will be adding on already  At the top left i am adding a 2'x3' section which will be perfect for a yard:thumbsup: After i get that built i am going to try and tackle wiring? Which i am completely in the dark on. Is there a wiring for dummies? Also i have the atlas switches. Is there a better brand? Seems like when i was running around with the engine it was having a hard time navigating through them. And as always i am open to suggestions!!!! This would not be possible without the help and encouragement from you Guys!!!!!!!!


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## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

johnd603 said:


> Sure! Slit it right down the center of the cork roadbed with an x-acto knife and a metal straight-edge.. Draw out the radius on your plywood, and lay the first half, then lay the "other half".. the inside "radius" of the bed will be a tad longer after you complete the curve - so trim it flush when mating the bed to a straight section...
> 
> Can't wait to see your layout take shape - so please post pics as it progresses!
> 
> John


i was always told to stagger the ends of cork. 

and im surprised your not putting down insulation pink/blue. it seems like every one on ere says that is the way to go. ??? i guess its up to the builder. noise/no noise.


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

Hmmmm i did not know about the insulation.. But at this point i think i will leave it the way it is. Are there any negative affects?


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

Got 99% of the track down but I am done for the night. 









Sent from the woods of New England


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## RUSTY Cuda (Aug 28, 2012)

If your like me NO WAY  you will hook up a transformer & try & get something running!  Rich.


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

Already ran through the small loop 

Sent from the woods of New England


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

This weekend i hope to dig some more in the shed at my gram's and see what else i can come up with!! I am hoping for some more Locomotives and i Think he had a nice transformer. If i can find it? If not i will have to buy one!!!!


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

Well its in one piece but I am having some issues with losing power near the switches and also derailing on, the switches. Any advice? But here is pictures of the first full load pass









Sent from the woods of New England


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## thetramp (Dec 14, 2012)

I was having loss of power at my switches and I put extra power leads where the switches connect to the other track. Problem solved. Also in the picture of the close up of the State of Maine car, it appears that one rail rides above the other one where the track is joined and the other side has a gap in the rails. You might want to put a new, tight rail joiner there. Here is my 4 X 6 layout.

http://s733.photobucket.com/user/1bassplyr/media/IMG_4102.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

Thanks For the idea on the switches! yes it is uneven at the junctions i need to shim it to even it up and put a new joiner in. I might have to even put a new piece of track in. That is going to be my last resort! So now i am stuck trying to work out all the small bugs  But it will all be worth it in the end!


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## thetramp (Dec 14, 2012)

Before I'd put a shim, I would try a new piece of track and a fresh new rail joiner. Take out and replace track as needed. I have done that more than once. My track sat for years in the attic and some were not exactly straight and were out of scale due to the heat and hard to notice until the trains ran and derailed. Before you nail everything down, run the trains for a while to find the problems. I ran mine for at least 2 months before nailing them down than I took some up and redid the layout.


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

all nailed down at this point ...... But it is easy enough to take the nails out if that is what needs to be done..


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## ktcards (Sep 22, 2012)

maddmax said:


> all nailed down at this point ...... But it is easy enough to take the nails out if that is what needs to be done..


It looks like in that one spot, under the "O" the near track joiner is over the top on one side while there is a gap between tracks on the other side.

I had the same problem, tried to fudge track that didn't quite fit. It created a situation where the radius was altered and some cars would derail. I had one engine that would just fall over on it's side for no apparent reason.

I got some track software and tried to duplicate what In had on the board. It turned out that I had to start over, rip it all up, and follow my diagram from the track laying software.

The moral is... If you use 18" radius track your radius must be 18", not 17" or 19" and the track must line up smoothly where it is joined.

Ray


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

Honestly its right where i cut the Flexible track. SO its easy enough just to replace it!! Thanks For the suggestions


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## BillCN (Jan 6, 2013)

*W i d e s c r e e n*

I just have to ask...... is it my monitor, or is it something else that's going on here. This page is now about four times wider than usual. I have noticed this on other threads, but not usually this wide. It makes it hard to read when you have to scroll back and forth to read the script. Maybe there is some setting I can change? Anyone else have this problem?


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## ktcards (Sep 22, 2012)

BillCN said:


> I just have to ask...... is it my monitor, or is it something else that's going on here. This page is now about four times wider than usual. I have noticed this on other threads, but not usually this wide. It makes it hard to read when you have to scroll back and forth to read the script. Maybe there is some setting I can change? Anyone else have this problem?


Madmax"s pictures are too wide for your monitor so they bleed off over the sides.

Ray


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

Hit the control button with the subtract sign that will re size your screen!!


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## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

BillCN said:


> I just have to ask...... is it my monitor, or is it something else that's going on here. This page is now about four times wider than usual. I have noticed this on other threads, but not usually this wide. It makes it hard to read when you have to scroll back and forth to read the script. Maybe there is some setting I can change? Anyone else have this problem?


my thoughts EXACTLY!!

I will try that ctrl - tho


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## BillCN (Jan 6, 2013)

ktcards said:


> Madmax"s pictures are too wide for your monitor so they bleed off over the sides.
> 
> Ray


NO, that's not it. The pictures are 1024 wide which usually displays OK, but these are positioned immediately to the left of the previous one.....making the screen over 4000 pix wide!

This page displys fine, again.


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

Well, what started as just a addition for,a yard has grown into, another idea looks like there will be some kind of raised rail:thumbsup: just got to figure out how exactly









Sent from the woods of New England


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

Also found this









Sent from the woods of New England


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

i need some advice. Is it possible to build risers out of wood? What is needed? I have some scrap 2x3's i could use. I am just not sure if this is a good way to do this? Does there need to be a hard surface for the track when its risen up?


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## RUSTY Cuda (Aug 28, 2012)

When I used the trestle set, with normal 9" track spacing, the track dips when the engine goes over, half spacing was nice & solid, seems most of the guys build em of solid wood. the bridges can span some of the gaps , they should be fine.


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

i have done some testing with 2x3's and it seems to work really good!!! I also am using some wood shims. Works pretty slick i just have to much of a grade So back to the drawing board? What are the size increments on the trestle set for the grade?


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

This is what I have right now ... Its just a test at the moment









Sent from the woods of New England


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## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

be care full at the bridge joint. make a riser at the same level as the bridge. if you dont you will have a bump at the meet of the track and the bridge. so put the bridge size riser 6" away from the bridge.


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

Well I scraped that idea... Went back to the yard .. Looks slot better

Sent from the woods of New England


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

This is what I have at the moment. I am still kind of unsure if I like it... maybe it will grow on me.









Sent from the woods of New England


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## RUSTY Cuda (Aug 28, 2012)

Just a thought from my musings.
If you squeeze the first switch up closer to the loop & the next as close to that as possible & so on, you may get a few more sidings in & they will be a little longer, I did mine a few times & managed to eke out a little more each time.


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## maddmax (Apr 22, 2013)

i was thinking the same exact thing... I have to go and find more switches first


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