# Best Airbrush Equipment



## Freightliner (Jul 30, 2016)

Who makes a good quality air brush and brush cleaning station?


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

I'm also in the process of buying an airbrush. You'll find this site very useful: https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/

You'll also need a compressor of some sort.


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## Peter Herron (Jun 30, 2015)

*Not sure what you mean................*

............by "air brush cleaning station". I use a trash can with a plastic bin liner and shoot the excess paint then the cleaning water into it and also to catch the excess when back flushing the brush. This is for non solvent paint only.

If you are talking about the glass container with the top into which you shoot the paint and cleaner, I recommend Harbor Freight as they have one that's 1/2 or less that the cost anywhere else for the exact same thing.

I use Grex airbrushes in the trigger style as I never could get the hang of the top finger mount.

Peter


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## sachsr1 (Mar 3, 2016)

I bought a Neo for Iwata about two years ago, and I've used the heck out of it. With a Hobby Lobby coupon it's about $40. Between Micheals (huge markup without coupon), Hobby Lobby, and Amazon you can find a decent name brand brush for around $100 (don't forget the coupon). 
This weekend I bought a Master Airbrush on Amazon for $30. You get a lot of stuff for that $30. Airbrush, three needle sizes, quick connect, and an air hose (compatible with Iwata). I used it last night for the first time, and it worked great. 

Cycleops is right https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/home is a great resource. I think he does a great job of writing honest reviews without a lot of bias. It's hard to watch a review when the person says "cheap airbrush" or "feels cheap", and then later in the review say it's "not too bad", or "it sprays pretty good". I picked up the Master Airbrush because many of the reviews I read or watched said they still use the Master brush at times after upgrading to a name brand brush.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I'm one of those oddballs who has an Aztek and loves it. Clean it after use with windex and soapy water.

I love the ergonomic design (like holding a pencil for me), and the fact that to change colors, I just swap out the paint cup. A little soapy water to clean tne innards (I use acrylic paints), and I'm off to the next color. Drop your used cup into a pan of soapy water, and clean it later.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

I use a Paasche VL
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00397TTTY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
Got this on an open box so the air brush cost less that 30 by the time they gave me a little back due to missing the lowest numbered needle.

I got this air compressor, makes it a lot easier to use the airbrush as its quiet and portable!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001738DXU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You need adapters if you use other than master, I just got an adapter that mates the master hose to the paasche hose. I have a nice long hose now!


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## sachsr1 (Mar 3, 2016)

CTValleyRR said:


> I'm one of those oddballs who has an Aztek and loves it. Clean it after use with windex and soapy water.
> 
> I love the ergonomic design (like holding a pencil for me), and the fact that to change colors, I just swap out the paint cup. A little soapy water to clean tne innards (I use acrylic paints), and I'm off to the next color. Drop your used cup into a pan of soapy water, and clean it later.



I learned the hard way not to soak your chrome airbrush in ammonia based Windex. The finish starts to come off. It's just inside the bowl, so it's not a big deal.


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## Genetk44 (Feb 26, 2016)

I have a number of airbrushes by Iwata and Badger but my favourite is my Badger 105 Patriot...does absolutely everything I need it to do,easy to clean..excellent airbrush. Airbrush cleaning station....I have one of these for when I use enamel paints and turpentine


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

sachsr1 said:


> I learned the hard way not to soak your chrome airbrush in ammonia based Windex. The finish starts to come off. It's just inside the bowl, so it's not a big deal.


Mine is resin, not chrome.


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## sachsr1 (Mar 3, 2016)

In the past few weeks I've added a couple of air brushes to my arsenal. I got an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS which is a great brush. I also added a few Master Airbrushes (siphon and gravity feed, and a no-name Chinese brush for fine detail work. You can't go wrong with the Iwata, but it's a bit more money (Hobby Lobby coupon).


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## Never Get Old (Apr 16, 2016)

I am a complete noob to my airbrush, but it has been going very well for the past 6-8 months. After much research and asking on online forums, I ended up with an Iwata Revolution that is incredibly easy to use. It will even work with the 99 cent "multi-surface" acrylics from the local craft store for weathering my rolling stock and locomotives. That acrylic "multi-surface" paint sticks to everything I have tried it on, and it cleans up with water, at least until it dries. Just thin them with a little Windex and a little distilled water until the consistency of milk, test on a paper towel, and then test on something plastic first like a junk box car.

The Iwata Revolution isn't cheap, but it's also not going to bust the bank at $94 for a tool that will last almost forever if cared for. The large cup top feed Revolution is easy to use and easy to clean. The compressor is one that has a cooling fan in it for prolonged life. It was $80. It's also quiet.

Links:

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbru...ush+compressor

and 

https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-R...ata+revolution

and a quick release coupling:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and DO NOT forget the cleaner:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the luxury of airbrushing an in air conditioned environment, so the moisture trap on the compressor is sufficient for me. If you plan to paint in any humidity, you will need an inline moisture trap too. They are not expensive.

Total cost $200 and I love this thing to death. I'd highly recommend it to anyone like me who has never airbrushed anything before. I also picked up the Model Railroader "Basic Painting and Weathering" book. A few YouTube videos taught me how to clean the airbrush properly, and away I went! Don't be a chicken like I was if $200 is in your hobby budget. For comparison, how much does a nice DCC locomotive cost these days? $200 compared to some other things we buy isn't that much really. I think fear of the unknown is a bigger factor, at least it was for me.

Cleaning station? 64 ounce fountain drink cup from the convenience store. Poke airbrush through the "X" hole in the lid (after consuming soft drink) and spray. Toss it out when done.

-Never Get Old


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Never Get Old said:


> Total cost $200 and I love this thing to death. I'd highly recommend it to anyone like me who has never airbrushed anything before. I also picked up the Model Railroader "Basic Painting and Weathering" book. A few YouTube videos taught me how to clean the airbrush properly, and away I went! Don't be a chicken like I was if $200 is in your hobby budget. For comparison, how much does a nice DCC locomotive cost these days? $200 compared to some other things we buy isn't that much really. I think fear of the unknown is a bigger factor, at least it was for me.


Good tools are an investment. It's always worth the cost. They repay their cost 1000 times over during their lifespan (which, for s good tool, may be longer than yours!!).


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## jlc41 (Feb 16, 2016)

Can I please get an opinon on a Micro lux portable compressor model #86113. Thanks in advance.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

jlc41 said:


> Can I please get an opinon on a Micro lux portable compressor model #86113. Thanks in advance.


86113 isn't a compressor, it's a moisture trap / pressure gauge assembly. I have one on my MicroLux #86108 Portable Air Compressor. Both work extremely well -- I am quite pleased. Some people complain about tankless compressors having pressure waves as the piston cycles, but I have never seen it with this model.


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## jlc41 (Feb 16, 2016)

CTValley thanks that is the model, I listed the wrong #. That being said what else do I need to hook up the compressor besides the 83116?


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Depends on the model of airbrush you have. 

The 86113 isn't required, but it's a good idea because moisture in your air can ruin a finish, and the regulator on the 86108 doesn't have a gauge, so you have to guess at pressure.

The compressor itself has a 1/4" male hose fitting. The 86113 screws on to that, and also has a 1/4" male hose fitting on the output side. My Aztek A470's air hose screws right to that. If your hose is a different size (1/8" is also common), the airbrush company will usually sell an adapter.


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## jlc41 (Feb 16, 2016)

CTValley, thanks.


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## Never Get Old (Apr 16, 2016)

This has nothing to do with the current question, but my previous post in this thread that no longer works. While reviewing my post about what I bought, I noticed that Amazon had changed all of the links. 

So, for anyone reading my prior post in the future, here are the items that I ended up buying that are working well for me:

Master Airbrush Model TC-40 - Cool Runner Professional High Performance Single-Piston Airbrush Air Compressor with 2 Holders, Regulator, Gauge, Water Trap Filter & Air Hose

Iwata-Medea Revolution CR Dual Action / Large Gravity Feed Cup 

Iwata-Medea Quick Disconnect Set

Iwata-Medea Airbrush Cleaner (16 Oz.) 

-Never Get Old


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## jlc41 (Feb 16, 2016)

I wound up getiing a Badger #155 siphon brush. Can any one tell me where I can get a lid for the cup I would like to use? Do I need a lid for the cup?


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## Mark VerMurlen (Aug 15, 2015)

I have a Badger Patriot gravity feed airbrush and it came with a cap for the cup. I would have expected yours to come with one too. Since your #155 is a siphon design, will you actually be using the gravity feed cup? I would think you'd use it mostly in the siphon mode. If you do use the gravity feed cup, you would probably do that because you are painting a very small amount of paint. In my case, I've found I don't need the cap when painting with just a small amount of paint. Perhaps that's their thought as to why they don't include a cap. I always use the cap when I get the cup more than 1/4 full, since when sweeping the airbrush or angling it to get into some nook in the model, its likely to spill paint. In your case, if you're spraying that much paint, you're probably going to use the siphon mode instead.

Mark


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## jlc41 (Feb 16, 2016)

Mark, my set did not come with a cup. This brush does not allow for gravity feed. The paint bottle attaches under the brush body. But I know I can get a siphone cup to attach to the same place the bottle attaches to. I will call Badger and see what they say or recommend. Thanks for your reply.


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## sachsr1 (Mar 3, 2016)

I've never used a lid on my siphon brush, but I'm sure you can find something that will fit. Just make sure there's a hole in it so you don't create a vacuum in the cup.


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## jlc41 (Feb 16, 2016)

sachsr1, thanks for the reply. Am just getting into air brushing and don't want to mess up.


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## Waddy (Dec 18, 2014)

I use a cheap Paasche single stage and run it off my shop compressor with an adapter which you can buy.

That gun is so easy to clean compared to others. And it isn't picky about what I run through it.


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## fcwilt (Sep 27, 2013)

Hi,

I have a Badger 155 and two Badger 105.

Happy as a clam at high tide.

Frederick


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Resurrecting this old thread.
I am looking to get into painting with an airbrush, something I always wanted to do.

My question.........have any of the people who replied back then are you still using what you had or have you moved on to better airbrushes now?

Also do you prefer 1 stage or 2 stage? 
Or do you own both for different painting jobs?

Has anyone airbrushed model people? Or are the people too small to do a good job detailing? Just wondering about this one.

New members into airbrushing, are more then welcome into the conversation.
Folks that want to get into airbrushing are free to add here too.

Thanks in advance.


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## MatroxD (Jan 19, 2018)

I actually, at this time, use an inexpensive setup that works pretty well. It's a harbor freight fortress 2 gallon silent air compressor(the one gallon is dead silent, but going to the 2, allows me to use it for wood work, and other tasks), moisture trap added of course, and one of their gravity feed cheap airbrushes(20.00 airbrush, but it's the same, and takes the badger needles, packing, tips, e.t.c). 

It's something new(figures) and I've only done a few figures with this setup(painted quite a few buildings and cars though), but the needle is fine enough that it works surprisingly well. 

And definitely dual action airbrush. I usually use about 5 to 10psi maximum. Even though this works, I wish I still had my old iwata gun type airbrush. The fine needles in that thing, did amazing hairline work. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Never Get Old (Apr 16, 2016)

Never Get Old said:


> I am a complete noob to my airbrush, but it has been going very well for the past 6-8 months. After much research and asking on online forums, I ended up with an Iwata Revolution that is incredibly easy to use. It will even work with the 99 cent "multi-surface" acrylics from the local craft store for weathering my rolling stock and locomotives. That acrylic "multi-surface" paint sticks to everything I have tried it on, and it cleans up with water, at least until it dries. Just thin them with a little Windex and a little distilled water until the consistency of milk, test on a paper towel, and then test on something plastic first like a junk box car.
> 
> The Iwata Revolution isn't cheap, but it's also not going to bust the bank at $94 for a tool that will last almost forever if cared for. The large cup top feed Revolution is easy to use and easy to clean. The compressor is one that has a cooling fan in it for prolonged life. It was $80. It's also quiet.
> 
> ...


Exactly the same and I wouldn't change a thing. :smilie_daumenpos:

I used it daily as part of a hobby/business for about 18 months. Zero problems. High quality. Easy to learn. Easy to use. Will last. Will not break the bank.

I probably have painted 75 N scale cars and locomotives with it. I will be using it to paint an N scale 15 car unit train over the next few weeks.

-Never Get Old-


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## Genetk44 (Feb 26, 2016)

Still using my Badger Patriot brush?


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## Patrick1544 (Apr 27, 2013)

It depends on the type, features and how accurate you want your airbrush to be. Many factors here. Google a review of the best airbrushes. You’ll glean a lot of information. Also, a good compressor makes all the difference too.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Still using the same Aztek A470 as before, with the same Microlux #86108 compressor.

I prefer the double action, so I can control air flow and paint quantity independently (harder to master, but better control, IMO). 

I apply primer, and sometimes a base coat, to figures using an airbrush, but fine details are painted with a 20/0 pointed round brush and a 20/0 spotter.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Thanks, to all who answered.

I did google, I guess there are not that many on the site who air brushes.

But it is something I want to try.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

I was at an AC Moore that is closing and just happened to notice a large box on one of the checkout counters -- it was an air compressor for an airbrush -- a badger. I was not familiar with the name at the time but it seemed interesting and it was way marked way down. I've for years thought about an airbrush so I did a quick google search and the price was good -- so I nabbed it. 

Then figuring I needed an actual airbrush for the air to drive -- and after some further poking around I got this one: Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. I think there are a lot of good options at the price point, this is just one brand of the top two or three I believe that have been mentioned above.

Realizing then I needed paint I bought a small sample set of dull colors at hobby lobby that had the words "acrylic" and "airbrush" on the bottle.

And that's as far as I've gotten. I have not taken any of it out of the boxes yet even. yet I'm keen to try it out on something -- well paper obviously first, some kind of model.

But the one thing I noticed in all this and never considered is the paint -- why it may well be one has to have hundreds of tiny bottles of the stuff to get "just the right" mix for given project ... 

So there's that little issue to consider...


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

Practice with water with food coloring in it (to make it visible). Then when painting thin the paint a lot!


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Learning to mix colors is part of tha art of painting. Get a good selection of base colors and some really special ones, and mix anything else you need. Write down the formula for anything you think you will need to reproduce.

Vallejo's Model Air line has 235 colors, of which I have about 80. It's also easy enough to thin down their Model Color and Panzer Aces lines for airbrushing (I have about 130 of 308 colors in those lines).


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

I like the water/dye idea -- never occurred to me. 

What I have is a small sampler of pre-mixed airbrush labelled paints ... "Rust & Chipping Effects Color Series Model Airbrush Acrylic Paints" from Vallejo and I was also thinking of picking up something similar: "US Army Air War Color Series Model Airbrush Acrylic Paints" from the same brand. It's not clear to me I have to cut these or not, but I figured the directions would say. I picked those up mainly because I don't know what I'm doing but want some grays/sands/rust for "highlights" at this time since the two models I'm looking at which i built have some color in them already -- and I'm not sure I want recolor them entirely.

now i have something else which I built -- I got two of them, one is unbuilt. This is not a train thing but sci-fi thing and those will be painted entirely first. And I did the one I built using Testors metallic spray cans... this came out pretty good (took most of 3 cans though!) but it motivated me to get the airbrush because as hard as I tried I could not control the amount of spray coming out very well. This resulted in some unevenness and tiny bubbles in a few spots -- which i think in the end looks ok because it adds "greebles" to it ... or so I convinced myself. 

Even so, I would like to try controlling it.

Anyway the other one when its built will get the full coat of something... using the airbrush then is my idea.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Severn said:


> I like the water/dye idea -- never occurred to me.
> 
> What I have is a small sampler of pre-mixed airbrush labelled paints ... "Rust & Chipping Effects Color Series Model Airbrush Acrylic Paints" from Vallejo and I was also thinking of picking up something similar: "US Army Air War Color Series Model Airbrush Acrylic Paints" from the same brand. It's not clear to me I have to cut these or not, but I figured the directions would say. I picked those up mainly because I don't know what I'm doing but want some grays/sands/rust for "highlights" at this time since the two models I'm looking at which i built have some color in them already -- and I'm not sure I want recolor them entirely.
> 
> ...


The Vallejo Model Air line of paints is pre-thinned, ready for airbrush application straight from the bottle. No additional thinning is required.

You will find it much easier to control paint flow from an airbrush than from a rattle can. There really is no comparison.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

I can't take credit for the dyed water practice, but I can't find the reference. From my experience using Vallejo Model Air line of paints is that you should still thin it. Also buy a box of nitrile gloves!!! Change gloves each time you change color! Keeps any contamination from happening. Get quick disconnect fittings. It does not take much practice to impress yourself and make you wonder why you didn't do this long ago! I just used a big box out on the patio table as a spray booth (Florida).


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## MatroxD (Jan 19, 2018)

Lemonhawk said:


> Practice with water with food coloring in it (to make it visible). Then when painting thin the paint a lot!


I remember doing this after watching a createx video long ago(well over a decade ago). It helps tremendously with learning. 

Also, practice doing lines, varying the air and water/ food coloring mixture. I used up a ton of food coloring and water(much cheaper) on box tops doing these practice stools, along with writing my name in cursive(another great practice in fine line control). 

I think getting used to, and controlling "the way" you paint was another thing. The fine dusting, that is indicative of a nice, single coat, was interesting also. Trying to get, not having to wait for a layer that is over saturated to dry almost immediately was another big step. 

It's a fun and patient skill. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

noahenholm said:


> Air compressors developed expressly for airbrushes are suitable, but they are often smaller and thus less powerful. For more substantial motor power, you can choose ordinary air compressors. Additional equipment and parts, such as connections and adapters, air hoses, and pressure regulators, may be required to properly fit your airbrush.


This is a two year old thread and probably didn't need to be resurrected.

The problem is that airbrush compressors being designed to be less powerful is precisely the point. Using too much pressure will make your paint splatter and dry prematurely before adhering to your model. You absolutely cannot use a "standard" air compressor with an airbrush without a pressure regulator. With the price of a good airbrush model hovering around $100-150, it's really a good investment.


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