# More 1689e



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

This is A How TO DO for a newly purchased engine. As in all my projects it has problems.
I have startes one previously with a link here but have not finished.










First I had to test the motor. I cleaned the armature and checked the e unit drum. The drum actually got loose when I pulled it from between the motor frames. That just clamped back into place. 

The brushes had no tension. The springs were compressed. SO a little stretch job added more tension for a better contact. Then there is the top screw holding the brush plate and the metal connector from the brush can. This connector rotates so if it touches the brush to ground/common the motor will not run. With all three fixed the motor tested fine.












Then I did my Mod Podge job on the paper covering the e unit coil.










I know the shell looks nice. The black has a great gloss but it is covering a mess underneath. So it will be repainted


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

A better view of the paint job.










The original paint was left under the tender support bar.
The second picture shows the cover up on the pips? Relief valve or whistles?










The underside was clean and I found the light bracket was broken off.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

T-Man,

Great find. Glad to see the motor got revved up rather easily. One needs to be careful that the "solder tab" on the upper brush can doesn't touch any part of the shell, once that's installed, either.

I believe you'll find that those three "pips" were originally nickel under the black repaint.

Can you post a better photo(s) of how the motor mounts to the shell in the front/back at some point? I've never looked inside a 1689 that closely before.

Thanks, and enjoy!

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I got the picture tonight but posting may be delayed. I used the first shell to demo the attachment. The back wing is slightly too large for the shell.


I got a look at the first undercoat color. Care to guess. I will post that tomorrow.


TJ, You will be buying one by the end of the month. A Lionel Jr motor! yeah, you won't resist.

At least I have a whole one for reference. I had to make the wing for the first one.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*How the motor mounts,*

Front mount with a wheel set and four slots. Two for the motor and two for the rods.




















The back is held on by a wing that is bolted from the outside of the shell by decorated bolts. I think the imitate brake cylinders. I don't have those,

















...


Of course being a T-man special. The rods do not match.








...


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*The Color is....*

Flourescent Orange.:laugh:


After an overnight soak the paint turned brittle and is starting to chip off.


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## santafe158 (Jul 14, 2010)

What do you guys recommend for stripping paint on plastic (a Lionel tank car to be specific)? I've had it soaking in a Tide bath for a few weeks and it seems to be slowly working, but anything quicker? The oven cleaner method is only for metal correct?


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Postwar collector does use Oven cleaner on his shells. Mostly the 2300 diesels. Castrol super clean is suppose to be effective too though I have not tried it.

AFter a day in the bag.


The mystery color is for the Daylight LImited Red & Orange.


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

santafe158 said:


> What do you guys recommend for stripping paint on plastic (a Lionel tank car to be specific)? I've had it soaking in a Tide bath for a few weeks and it seems to be slowly working, but anything quicker? The oven cleaner method is only for metal correct?


The last time I stripped a shell (plastic DT&I SW2 I think), I soaked it in brake fluid for a few hours. It was amazing!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

T-Man,

Thanks for the under-the-hood pics. (I had fogotten that you redid another 1689, albeit with a retrofit motor).

Here, I'm intrigued to see how the "real" motor fits ... two tabs forward (like on my 1681's), but on the 1689 you have that cross-plate across the back/top of the motor. No such piece on my 1681's. However, one of my 1688's with the Lionel Jr style motor does have the rear cross-plate mount.

Is the front cross bracket that's in the shell (where the tabs from the front of the motor mount) something that's screwed into the shell casting, or rivetted into the shell casting ???


Looks like a 10-spoke wheel jumped in at some point with the other 8-spoke wheels, huh? Hence the drive rod differences.

Thanks, T ... enjoy!

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

You are right about the wheel switch. 8 and 10 spokes.
I noticed the rods did swing close to the brush cans on one side.
Two different wheels. This is my kind of engine.











Four screws hold the motor in two in the front on the wheel bracket and two in the back on the wing.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

After one day in the bag the paint turned brittle and I used a wide xacto blade to scrape it off.
This didn't take very long to do.

SO more oven cleaner and back in the bag.










So no primer was seen. The orange and red were brushed on.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Brushed on, that must have been a classy paint job!


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

There was a little primer after all.

This is after the wire brush treatment.


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## PW_Lionel_Collector (Jul 13, 2009)

santafe158 said:


> What do you guys recommend for stripping paint on plastic (a Lionel tank car to be specific)? I've had it soaking in a Tide bath for a few weeks and it seems to be slowly working, but anything quicker? The oven cleaner method is only for metal correct?


Easy Off oven cleaner works the best. It takes all the dirt and paint off without melting the shell. Metal items I use paint stripper.

Example: http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=2777&page=2

page down you will see what it does.

- PW


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Thanks PW!

I compared the engines on the two 1689e's. The first one I started was a conglomeration of parts. So the motors match except for the nameplate.











Still cleaning


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

T-Man,

That's the basic so-called "Lionel Jr" motor. There were design mods / variants over the years...

The brushplate holder is interesting ... early motos had the fasten screws closest to the brush cans, and little alignment nubs (to engage into the motor sideplate) further away. Then, for some reason, Lionel flip-flopped this arrangement ... later motors had the alignment nubs close to the cans, and the fasten screws further away. Go figure!

Some motors have sideplates with round bores in the front, back, or both. These were sometimes used to mount the motor to a shell with a long sideways screw (like on some 1688's).

And, you may recall that some motors had the later-generation field coil, which were mounted in an open-top-wide-notch in the motor sideplates.

Some motors have the rear mount "wing bars" like you show.

And yes ... different nameplates: Lionel Jr. vs. Lionel O27.

Question -- is the e-unit reverse lever on the 1689 on the front of the e-unit, or on the rear?

If I recall, the 258 uses this same basic Jr motor, but on that one, the e-unit has its lever on the rear of the e-unit.

Cheers,

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The lever faces forward, and the e -unit sits on the rear of the motor.










The Lionel 027 has ten spoked wheels.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Cleaning and more cleaning.*

AFter my scotchbrite rubdown with some rubbing compound. I went after nooks. I used xacto knives ,dental pics and varies wire brushes on a dremel. For a change I went back to the dril press for a second round with that wire brush. I had paint on the inside and then used stripper there. After that I cleaned up the shell with sone paint thinner and finaly soap and water.

I am in the final curve and cleaning up the last of it. Here are the results. Almost ready to paint.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Looks good, it's certainly close to painting time.  Surface prep is always the most time consuming.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

T-Man,

The shell looks GREAT. Believe me ... I know how hard it is to get all of the nooks and crannies down to bare metal ... especially those on the inside corners of the shell.

From what I see in your pics, it looks like the shell itself is in pristine shape ... no dings, bends, etc.

And those 3 "valves" on top of the shell look nice and shiny. You may be scratching your head as to what to do with those during the repaint. I know I certainly have. They're peened on (from the inside), tiny, and sit low in that shell recess. Quite hard to tape off. On my end, I've been using a Dremel grinding wheel to grind away the "peen" on the inside of the shell ... just enough to be able to remove the "valves". Then I repaint (without them on), and then use JB to epoxy them back in. I'm not sure if this is the best overall approach, though, as I would almost prefer to have the original peen intact.

In an earlier thread, we had discussed coating little fittings like this with hot wax, prior to paintwork, and then cutting / brushing away the paint thereafter. Never tried this on my end, though.

I'd be quite curious as to what approach you might take here.

Cheers,

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Heat shrink tubing over them, then cut it off after the repaint.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

For corners the dental pic is nice. The paint is brittle and chips off. I also have a straight-in wire brush, not a wheel.

The valvepainting, I may go with silicone. I could check on the heat shrink too. It depends on the tub size that I have. If I used tape I would only have to clean the bottom of the valves to look right. So anything I use is not that critical but helps.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

John,

The heat shrink tubing idea is a good one! Thanks!

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

It came to me while reading the post.  When you shrink it, it should be tight enough to keep any paint from getting in. Since it shrinks at least 2:1, the exact size isn't all that critical. Leave it a bit long so you can fold over the top to keep the paint out.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The e unit up close.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Primer Time*

Heat shrink tubing!!!!!! EEEeeeeeeEEEHAAAAAA!
I like it.

The TJ clean and prep was only 90 percent. I just can't get the shine. 
The metal shell was easy to work on and the paint wasn't that tough.































Before







...


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I guess that worked.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Nothin' beats a sweet, fresh coat of primer! Nice work, T!

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The Tender is next. Ah er, well the motor is, but all I need to do is rewire it. I started on the tender instead. 


I want to display the engine as complete, the painting is done. I just want it to cure before continuing. The last thing I want to do is rush it. I can't show the pips without revealing the color,in due time.



I chose this guy since it has a side label plate that will match the engine.
It does have a broken tab and some dents.











Initial strippage was fast.







...


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You guys ever buy anything that is all in one piece?


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## eljefe (Jun 11, 2011)

Does the 1689 use the same motor and wheels as the 1688? Based on the photos, I'm guessing they're pretty close. I've been interested in getting a 1689 but if it has the same troubles with switches that a 1688 does, I'll probably save the money for something else.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I looked at Olsen's and both motors are very close. A Lionel Jr motor with 1661 drive wheels.

The one piece is turning into a drama. The truck is a 1690 style, lower than what I have in the parts box.
Decisions, decisions.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

T-Man said:


> I want to display the engine as complete, the painting is done. I just want it to cure before continuing. The last thing I want to do is rush it. I can't show the pips without revealing the color,in due time.



OOoooo..... maybe  ALIEN GREEN?:thumbsup:


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

eljefe said:


> Does the 1689 use the same motor and wheels as the 1688? Based on the photos, I'm guessing they're pretty close. I've been interested in getting a 1689 but if it has the same troubles with switches that a 1688 does, I'll probably save the money for something else.


The early-generation 1688's and all of the 1689's use the same basic "Lionel Jr" motor. The mounts to the shell might be a bit different, but the motor is essentially the same.

(That said, the motor did have some subtle evolutions ... tweaks to the brushplate; some extra mount bore holes in the motor sideplates; etc.)

Early 1688's had 8-spoke wheels ... a carry-over from the Lionel/Ives 1661, as T-Man said. Later ones had 12-spoke wheels.

This 1689 also has the 8-spoke wheels.

TJ


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

T-Man said:


> The one piece is turning into a drama. The truck is a 1690 style, lower than what I have in the parts box.
> Decisions, decisions.


T-Man,

I have a few extra trucks that should fit that tender (with wheels, journal boxes). Let me know if you want one, and I can snap a pic of the few that I have for you to pick.

TJ


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## eljefe (Jun 11, 2011)

tjcruiser said:


> The early-generation 1688's and all of the 1689's use the same basic "Lionel Jr" motor. The mounts to the shell might be a bit different, but the motor is essentially the same.
> 
> (That said, the motor did have some subtle evolutions ... tweaks to the brushplate; some extra mount bore holes in the motor sideplates; etc.)
> 
> ...


It's kinda hard to directly compare these photos, but the diameter of the 1689 drive wheel gears looks close to that on the 1688. This diameter seems to be the source of the derailing/power loss problem.

1689:









1688:


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Though I haven't measured it directly, I'm pretty sure that the drive wheel gear diameter on all of the Lionel Jr style motors (on 1681, 1688, 1689, 258 locos) must be the same ... regardless of whether it's an 8-spoke or 12-spoke wheel. My rationale is that they all use the same mid-gear mounted on a pinion between the wheels ... parrt AM-70. It's the diameter and pitch on that mid-gear that dictates the required diameter and pitch of the gears cast into the drive wheels.

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

After a litle investigation I found the teeth of the gears lifting the drive wheel on the plastic guard. At fast speed it would probably derail. The slide angle would be important to. This is an 022 switch.










These are two types of prewar trucks. The left I thought were common . The right one came off the tender and is identical to the 1690 passenger car.













Thanks for the offer TJ I will post you.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

That guide is kinda' important for the switch, so I'm not sure there's a decent fix for that issue.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Use either 1121 or Marx metal switches. They should work fine.

Alternatively, you might be able to grind down the guard rail enough to allow the gear to clear and still have it work as a guard rail. Then what about the frog?


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Bruce, I was thinking of grinding or at least beveling the angle. The frog got me thinking and I checked. It has twice the clearance space. There are still two other directions to consider. Marx are the only engines that have a consistant problem on my track at the curves and the uncoupler tracks.


1688

You can see the gear clearance and also the angle of the slide. That angle can get worst when placed on the track.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

servoguy said:


> Use either 1121 or Marx metal switches. They should work fine.


Well, if you have 022 switches, you presumably have O31 track. So putting O27 switches in there probably doesn't work out all that well.


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## rrbill (Mar 11, 2012)

Your 1688 locomotive looks very nice as it is. However, you have to imagine what one would look like if it was lengthened overall, the boiler casing was elongated, and it had a 4-6-2 or 4-6-4 wheel arrangement and a commensurately more powerful motor. That would be an Art Deco masterpiece and quite a puller!


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Lionel made a 1668e.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

T-Man,

Sorry I haven't had a chance to dialog further about your tender trucks. Busy with work/family on my end, and heading out of town for the long weekend.

If you are still interested in one of the spare trucks I have (if they are a good fit in size), please remind me next week, and I'll be happy to post some dimensions, pics, whatever.

Cheers,

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

That's great! Any delay in the unveiling can be attributed to you. Just kidding. :laugh:

I played with the name plates. I cut extra long metal pieces to glue to the name plates since they did not have tabs.




















I think they are sticky repros but this way I can remove them if I find a decent pair.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

That's clever, T. I had a nameplate or two with broken tabs that I put on with thin double-stick tape, but I like your new tab idea.

Yes, plates from Jeff Kane are all pretty much stick-on, with no tabs.

Cheers,

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I rewired the engine. Then e unit fell apart. I didn't have to use a tool. AT least it stayed together after I finished. Test run of the motor was good.:thumbsup:










Then I made a light bracket. It is held in place with a 4-40 flathead screw and lock nut. I had one delay. I was wire brushing the front paint off under the L logo and the wire brush ran up and on the finish!:thumbsdown:
Accidents will happen.hwell:

I shouldn't be surprized, any painting I do has at least one touch up. It is just that the gloss is more difficult. This one has plenty of gloss.

I sanded with crocus cloth and repainted. I placed the side label signs ons along with all the trim. All I need is the rear tender truck with a coupler bar.

When the paint dries I can install the motor.

This is an original bracket. Not a good picture but it is only a metal clip to hold the bulb socket.


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## Taxman7735 (Apr 28, 2012)

T-Man, you're a farking artist! I've learned so much in such a short time here and your contributions are a major factor in that.

A quick question; what exactly is the "Mod Podge Job" on the E unit coils? I have looked around but haven't found any explanation for the process.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Taxman7735 said:


> T-Man, you're a farking artist! I've learned so much in such a short time here and your contributions are a major factor in that.
> 
> A quick question; what exactly is the "Mod Podge Job" on the E unit coils? I have looked around but haven't found any explanation for the process.











Edit,
This picture is T's e unit, the mod podge is wet here go back in this thread and you will see what it looks like dry. There are 3 different kinds of finishes that I know of.
 
You know what Mod Podge is right?
The Mod Podge applied to the e unit adds a protective coating to the old paper. It drys clear.


A copy & paste on Mod Podge,
Mod Podge is an acid-free brand of glue produced by Plaid. Mod Podge is useful for collage and decoupage as it can be used both to glue something down and as a protective layer over it (instead of a varnish). It is available in a gloss, satin, or matte finish.
The company website describes it as a "the original all-in-one glue, sealer and finish.


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## Taxman7735 (Apr 28, 2012)

big ed said:


> View attachment 18203
> 
> 
> You know what Mod Podge is right?
> ...


Thanks Big Ed. I can honestly say I've never heard of Mod Podge before. That being said, I'd bet my wife has some in her craft stuff.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Taxman7735 said:


> Thanks Big Ed. I can honestly say I've never heard of Mod Podge before. That being said, I'd bet my wife has some in her craft stuff.


I edited the last post of mine above.

Your wife probably has used it if she is into crafts.
I am surprised the T Man did not use clear epoxy.:thumbsup:


Edit,
a little copy & paste for you,

There are many types of mod podge types available. Depending on your project there are various formulas… classic, paper & fabric. In addition to the various formulas you can also choose between matte and glossy or even glitter. These options will depend on your personal preference. When working with photographs, I prefer to use the paper mod podge. This one is formulated to be acid free, I’ve also found that it is a bit thinner so the drying time doesn’t seem to be quite as long as the other formulas. The 3 types of mod podge that I keep on hand are paper, satin & classic-matte finish.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Not Alien Green but Bergundy!*

Thanks ED! I appreciate the help. I searched out Mod Podge and answered an old thread. There is a whole page of posts to explore.

So to contine with the thread subject matter I introduce the mostly completed 1689e in Bergundy Rustoleum.






















The before,









The restoration










The tender.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Now that's a cool looking rig! Love the color!


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Thanks John, I thought I would add some more pics. The quality could of been better.






























This is the light bracket I made for the socket.










I also gave it a test run on the O scale track. It passed over the 022 switch with a bump but it did not like the UCS uncoupler track. ALso the draw end is long and drags on the rail. I had to use tape to keep it off the track.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Hubba hubba HUBBA!!!

T-Man, that red burgundy color looks fabulous on the 1689. Fabulous job!

Clever light bracket fab, too.

Here's some pics of the extra trucks I have, along with a draw bar that could work. I know this draw bar is used often on that tender style, and mates to locos such as the 258, 259. Perhaps it will work on the 1689? I gave the draw bar a quick burnish to remove surface rust. It looks OK, but any original nickel finish is all gone ... it's down to bare steel. You could clear-coat the thing to keep it from re-rusting.

I think these truck styles will match what you have. One has a latch coupler, but that can easily be removed. Are you looking for any special finish on the journal boxes?

If you're interested in any/all of this, let me know, and I'll send it your way later this week.





















Cheers,

TJ


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## eljefe (Jun 11, 2011)

That is a slick color. Looks a lot like its big brother, the Red Comet.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

T-Man said:


> Thanks ED! I appreciate the help. I searched out Mod Podge and answered an old thread. There is a whole page of posts to explore.
> 
> So to contine with the thread subject matter I introduce the mostly completed 1689e in Bergundy Rustoleum.


I saw that you answered the other thread....a year later.

Great color, looks new.
Nice job.:thumbsup:

Is that one of those stick on Lionel L's on the front, Or is that the original? 

I see another engine on the other line waiting for paint.
Alien Green? 

Edit,
I see the other is just a shell on a flat bed car?


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Most of the hardware was repro.
The side plates and the front logos were sticky back. That is why I went with a thin metal piece for the sides and some gel super glue. I could have tabs for easy removal. The front was different. I cut three tabs from one piece and hammered it into place, then I used the gel super glue . The shell did have the old rivet in place and I removed that and used a flat head screw to hold the light bracket.













The shell is a red 1681 a joint e bay purchase with a 259e shell.
The burgundy makes it look orange.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*More saga*

I removed journals and stuck them is paint renover over night. A litt.e wire brush after wiping helped. I am going for a second round. One was copper so I replaced it with a spare. I want a nickel finish to show. My weakness.

I did notice on the frame that there is a hole to receive a butterfly coupler. I thought I was only restricted to a truck mount coupler but I was wrong.

Small pieces are fun just stick them in the goo.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

T-Man, making the pictures a bit bigger would help a bunch, sometimes it's difficult to see what you're photographing. 

Usually, people make them too big.


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## santafe158 (Jul 14, 2010)

I want one 

Great work, the engine looks beautiful.


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## seabilliau (Dec 12, 2011)

A true labor of love. I hope you display/run her proudly once she is all buttoned up. You should be very proud of your work.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> T-Man, making the pictures a bit bigger would help a bunch, sometimes it's difficult to see what you're photographing.
> 
> Usually, people make them too big.



You can't see them?
Looks like parts sitting in an old wash pan with goo?

Unless he made them bigger since you asked.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

T-Man,

I stick the journals on the end of a q-tip, and then go to town with a Dremel wire brush ... the downward pressure keeps the journal in place, and the soft head of the q-tip helps to hold it in place during the brush work. (You have to make sure you make contact with the "downward rotation end" of the wire wheel.)

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

All the nice comments are appreciated, John even yours.

I was disappointed with the pictures with light being my worst enemy so I bumped them up a size.

Feauring parts in goo!!!!!!











After looking at the other truck the journals did dull so this time I will clear coat, The other truck now needs work.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

*Another look. but bigger.*







































Yeah big difference but now I see them out of focus.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Ok, size is right, now to work on the focus.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Ok, size is right, now to work on the focus.



RIVET.....RIVET....

What do you have planned to pull around the track for it?
Some old passenger cars?
Some old freight cars?

That loco would look good pulling your Christmas train.:thumbsup:


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

T-Man,

That 1689 looks fabulous ... really, really fabulous!!!

(I'm jealous, of course!)

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Another try at focus. The trucks are done I gave them a clear coat.








.
..









This is my ladder idea


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

That wire fencing makes good ladders.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Here is the tender. Shiny journals et al.










A plan for a ladder. 



































































After all that I found out the rear coupler on the tender is low. I noticed it when attaching a 1690 coach. Time to investigate.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

That looks great T-Man, that'll cut a wide swath. :thumbsup: It's also perfect for the Christmas layout, put a wreath over the headlight.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

OOOoooo, Nice & Shiny.:thumbsup:

And there are going to be matching passenger cars that I see behind it?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

If it's going to be "matching", it might need a paint job, looks a little orange.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> If it's going to be "matching", it might need a paint job, looks a little orange.



That is what I meant, they sure would look good with the matching red cream windows behind the tender and Locomotive.:thumbsup:


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## seabilliau (Dec 12, 2011)

T-man,
Every time I see Picts of your trains I am always drawn to all the items you have o. Your tables. They're like those I Spy books my kids have. I absolutely love looking at any photos you post just to get a glimpse of what's on your table because I never know what I'm gonna find. After looking though I can only imagine you are a very interesting person to know. 

I would love to see a thorough photo tour or your tables. Not video though, I think uh more is stated in still life, especially on your table. Always a treat.

SeaB


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

My prewar collection is meager. Another set of pasenger cars would be nice, I just haven't thought of what to use with the engine.

Here is another angle.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

T, I am wondering what that selenium rectifier is doing on your train table?


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

That was ripped out of an old power supply that was updated to give me 12 volts DC. This is the thread. Now it is just a decoration. There is a ctc track clip on top of it. I thought it fit for a prewar tramsformer car.


The table decor is just a collection. With all the pictures I take I find it interesting to add more. It is fun looking for more and somehow it all fits.

I will keep an eye out for some more cars. The Christmas theme came as a surprise. A pair of good passenger cars would be great. They would have to be low. Just a thought.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

T-Man,

In a word: BRAVO!

TJ


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