# Problems with Dynamis and EZ-Track



## jonyb (Mar 20, 2011)

Having some problems with my first temporary layout. I've got a kit that's about a 6' by 4' layout with _steel_ ez-track. I added 2 _nickel silver _turnouts. I'm using a Bachmann Dynamis DCC controller. 

*When I use a standard non-DCC controller on a DC engine, everything works fine. When I swap to the Dynamis and an Intermountain Railway F7A/B DCC w/sound engine combo, the engines stop on the turnouts. The Dynamis displays a short, and stops. I can press the stop button to start them back up, and it resumes where it left off.

*On the Dynamis, I'm having a problem with the signal or range. I can have the handheld controller 3" away from the base station, and it shows no signal. I've tried it from every angle, every distance, nothing. Sometimes it goes to full strength, then back to nothing, or it ramps up and down, even when the handheld is laying down and not being moved.

*Not related to DCC or DC, sometimes (about 3 out of 5 times), the engine or railcars derail when crossing some of the turnouts for no apparent reason.

I'm about to buy $800 worth of EZ-track that includes about 12 turnouts, and enough curves/straights to build an 8x12 layout. After having these problems, I'm having my doubts about buying the EZ-track. If I can't keep voltage on the turnouts, or keep engines and cars from derailing, it's not worth it to me.

I know a lot of people would say scrap the ez track, but really, what's going on here? Is it just junk?


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## Xnats (Dec 5, 2010)

It is not so much the Easy Track but the steel track with the black roaddbed, it is cheap stuff meant to run a simple loop.
Your AB Unit is like running two engines in consistence. I'm guessing the A unit passes then the B units causes the short as it hits the frog. A simple insulator on the rail causing the short should solve that problem. 
Your derailments are most likely weight issues or lack of. Are these passenger cars for the AB unit? A lot of the older HO passenger cars need weight added to them. If the engine is derailing make sure the turnout is flat and not twisted any way. Make sure it slaps all the way, it might be binding on a little spur and you will have to file it a bit.
When you do jump to DCC, plan on having track feeders every 3 feet of on every section for long term reliability. 
IMHO - 800 bucks is way to much for track. Your building an extremely nice layout, you would be way better off with flex track. The way I see it EasyTrack is great because it always one to start running train right away. It is harder to do scenery around it is harder to add additional feeders. With the flex you loose a day or two while the roadbed dies but after that it is all up hill compared to the plastic roadbed. If you were doing a loop or two on a 4x8 or 5x10 with a few spurs I could see it, boy that is a nice layout you have planned.
Do your research on DCC friendly turnouts before you order anything. Having friendly turnouts will save you the headaches of modifying older turnouts. I can't help with brands since I'm doing N scale. Tank and B man have smooth running DCC Ho layouts, what brand turnouts are you guys using ?  CP's seem to be running smooth on Atlas snap switches


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## jonyb (Mar 20, 2011)

Xnats said:


> It is not so much the Easy Track but the steel track with the black roaddbed, it is cheap stuff meant to run a simple loop.
> Your AB Unit is like running two engines in consistence. I'm guessing the A unit passes then the B units causes the short as it hits the frog. A simple insulator on the rail causing the short should solve that problem.
> Your derailments are most likely weight issues or lack of. Are these passenger cars for the AB unit? A lot of the older HO passenger cars need weight added to them. If the engine is derailing make sure the turnout is flat and not twisted any way. Make sure it slaps all the way, it might be binding on a little spur and you will have to file it a bit.
> When you do jump to DCC, plan on having track feeders every 3 feet of on every section for long term reliability.
> ...


Thanks for the info. I had planned on using the nickel silver track throughout the layout. Could it be the combination of the 2 causing this? The A/B engine doesn't have any cars to pull right now, so it runs by itself. I have a couple small DC engines that I run for my son and they are the ones that derail. Seems like sometimes even teh engine derails. I though about adding fishing weights to them in the future. 

I'll be looking into the Atlas track instead of Bachmann. Code 83 is the one to get, correct?


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## Xnats (Dec 5, 2010)

The code height depends on what you plan on running. If you are using older Tyco, LifeLike and ect you will want to stay with the code 100. The older engine's wheel flanges are to tall to run on code 83. If you plan on doing DCC then most likely you will be doing new engines with decodes already installed or dc light boards, both of these are meant to run on code 83. I'm not to sure about engines built in the 80's onto early 90's. I personally don't have engines from that time period. 

Then there is the other way to look at it. All trains will run on code 100 but code 83 is more realistic to scale. 

There is nothing wrong with the attached roadbed either it is just 800 bucks is a lot. If you are doing simple scenery it might be the best for you. If you plan to go into great detail on the scenery it is harder to make it look real and flex track should be half the price. 

If the AB Unit runs with out derailing your turnouts should be good. The other cars/ engines might need a little tlc. Make sure the trucks move freely, couplers are not bent and self center themselves and the wheels spin freely. Any of these can cause headaches. Even new rolling stock can be a pain. I have a brand new atlas n scale 33k gallon tanker and it hates turnouts. The front trucks go straight as intended but the rear trucks follow the turn. 

Take a pic or simple sketch of the layout and hopefully we can resolve you short problem on the turnout. A clear closeup pic of your turnout will help too. 

these are just my thoughts. Remember there is no wrong way to building a layout unless it smokes or don't run


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## jonyb (Mar 20, 2011)

I probably won't be running anything older, or any life-like/Tyco stuff. Mostly newer engines....

The layout has been disassembled for now, I'm remodeling part of the front garage, so when it's done, I'll be building a new table and another temporary layout.

Thanks for the info. If I move over to Atlas, I'll probably pick up code 83 track. The reason for the $800 price tag is because the turnouts (17 total) are from $25 to $35 each. If I use the Atlas, will any roadbed work, or what's the best?


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## Xnats (Dec 5, 2010)

Any HO scale roadbed will work, it should if you follow directions, something I fail at by the way :laugh:. As for the best you can try a new topic in the HO section or try using the search feature here. Tagging is not the best  but there are a lot of good reads hidden in the archives.


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## jonyb (Mar 20, 2011)

Sounds good, thanks for the advice.


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

FYI...The regular Atlas turnouts are around $10-15 each and you can buy 300ft of Code 100 flextrack for $289 at trainworldonline. Granted it's code 100, but really the difference between the (2) is .017" in height. 

http://www.trainworldonline.com/cat...=119&bycategory=84&x=39&y=10&find_section=414

My kids run their Thomas trains and cheaper Tyco locos/rolling stock on mine. Some people HATE the Atlas turnouts, but my Dad has a friend that runs the Atlas turnouts without any problems at all (DCC & computer controlled) His layout is unreal (over 1000ft of mainline from end to end on (4) levels.) Do a real solid job of laying the trackwork and you should be just fine.


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## concretepumper (Jan 2, 2011)

I was gonna say the same SS. $800 would but a ton of flex!  

My Atlas snap switches are the old brass type and they work good on DCC but I would only use these in a switching yard in the future! They do have problems now and then!  

Jonyb Sounds like you have some rolling stock that needs to gain weight! I use pennies and super glue. I try to get them up to 3-4 oz each. They run better. Keep the weight low. 
Also send me a pic of your Easy track please. I have some. If its the same kind you can have it for the price of your mailing address. Not much maybe 15 pieces. LMK.  :thumbsup:


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## jonyb (Mar 20, 2011)

I've got the grey Nickel Silver track that will be used on my big layout. I've also got some of the cheaper steel alloy track that's used on a smaller version for my son, so if you want to get rid of either one, let me know what you have and I may be interested.

I haven't set everything up just yet, the room is still being refinished. Once it's done, I'm gonna set up the track with a couple switches and see how everything runs. I think I"m just going to stay away from the DCC Bachmann turnouts. I'll use a standard toggle switch for switching.

I still haven't found an answer about the range and visibility of the dynamis yet. Sure hope this thing works better than it did before.....


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

Maybe it's blind luck, but I've got two large loops around my 4X8 made from EZ track NS with two switches involved. I've had absolutely NO problems :thumbsup:, and I'm using el cheapo "starter set" Bachmann transformers.
So far, so good, after about four months running. :laugh:
Bob


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## sabre76 (Dec 15, 2011)

*Dynamis problem*

I have the Dynamis pro and it was working fine until I set up a proto2000 F7A/B on it and the IR signal is going intermittent. I tried the system on my n gauge track and it gets a good signal. Did u ever learn the cause of ur signal problem? What it a defective handheld unit or a conflict with a decoder? Or some other reason?


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## sabre76 (Dec 15, 2011)

jonyb said:


> Having some problems with my first temporary layout. I've got a kit that's about a 6' by 4' layout with _steel_ ez-track. I added 2 _nickel silver _turnouts. I'm using a Bachmann Dynamis DCC controller.
> 
> *When I use a standard non-DCC controller on a DC engine, everything works fine. When I swap to the Dynamis and an Intermountain Railway F7A/B DCC w/sound engine combo, the engines stop on the turnouts. The Dynamis displays a short, and stops. I can press the stop button to start them back up, and it resumes where it left off.
> 
> ...


Dynamis problem
I have the Dynamis pro and it was working fine until I set up a proto2000 F7A/B on it and the IR signal is going intermittent. I tried the system on my n gauge track and it gets a good signal. Did u ever learn the cause of ur signal problem? What it a defective handheld unit or a conflict with a decoder? Or some other reason?


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