# Asphalt Streets



## captaintom (Jun 15, 2016)

Thinking of using 400 or 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper for streets. The black is almost a perfect match in color and is fine enough to look like asphalt. Has anybody tried this? Problems.

Thanks

Capt Tom


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## irontodd (Aug 28, 2014)

Seems like an OK idea to me, but you'll have to find something to "tar" the seams. Maybe a fine line of matte back paint?

Sent from my SM-T550 using Tapatalk


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## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

Brand new asphalt or sealer coat is black. Asphalt with any age at all gets grayed out from traffic and weather. I suggest you look at some dark or even regular gray paint and put a mist coat over the sandpaper. That will allow you to add some "cracks" or oil spots...that sort of realistic touch. A lot of asphalt fades out to equal concrete in grayness. Good luck!
:smilie_daumenpos:


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## captaintom (Jun 15, 2016)

Thanks to irontodd and fire21.

I'll try a fine magic marker for the seams. As to aging, a very little touch of blue chalk dust seems to give the idea of age. Magic marker can provide realistic cracks. This is a small town so I don't need yellow traffic lines (thank God)

Thanks.

Capt Tom


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Sandpaper streets*



captaintom said:


> Thinking of using 400 or 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper for streets. The black is almost a perfect match in color and is fine enough to look like asphalt. Has anybody tried this? Problems.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Capt Tom


captaintom;

I have tried this, and ended up not using this material for roads.You are quite right that fine grit wet-or-dry sandpaper looks a lot like scale asphalt. The problems showed up because it was a thin layer of, well, paper. First the paper needs to be glued down very flat, over every square centimeter. Otherwise very huge (for N-scale) bumps will crop up in multiple places. Second, although it is designed to be used wet, this paper will change its shape if it gets wet enough. Model Railroading often uses quite a bit of water. Gluing down scenery, and ballast, and plaster, if that's used, contains plenty of water. So do the latex paints used to color scenery, at least until the paint drys completely. At that point the paint is pretty waterproof. Painting your roads can help protect them from changes in humidity.
Third, the paper is thin, and can easily be torn. At some point it probably will get tears in it. These could be glued and painted to look like potholes I suppose, but personally I prefer more durable materials. 
Plaster, and particularly its cousin, drywall mud or joint compound is a popular road material. It can be spread easily, drys hard, takes paint well, and when painted is pretty moisture resistant. Styrene sheets, cut to size, and painted, make good streets, and sidewalks. Full-size roofing shingles have been used. Grit side up, the surface is much too rough for the small scales, but upside down, it's much smoother. Shingles have roofing tar on the non-grit side, and it looks like, um, tar. Unpainted it would look like freshly laid shiny tar. Paint, or chalks could tone it down to add some "age". I use wood filler in place of plaster; both for roads, and other scenery. You can see a bit of wood filler road in the attached photo. Plaster or drywall mud roads would look similar.
I'm not saying that sandpaper won't work, it will. I just wanted to give you some info to consider.

 Good luck with whatever road material you choose.

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## captaintom (Jun 15, 2016)

Traction Fan

Thanks for your ideas. I am not a fan of plaster or wall board compound - I have tried that in the past and don't have either the skill or the patience to mold it correctly.

I will try different ways of using the sandpaper though, especially with your warning about water affecting the paper. My plan right now is to try using contact cement on styrene or balsa wood. The thickness does not bother me since I plan on raising the landscape or sidewalks to accommodate the street. This may take a while and I will post a picture of how it turns out.

Thanks again.

Capt Tom


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Road surface*



captaintom said:


> Traction Fan
> 
> Thanks for your ideas. I am not a fan of plaster or wall board compound - I have tried that in the past and don't have either the skill or the patience to mold it correctly.
> 
> ...


Capt. Tom;

On your railroad, you rule! I would recommend the styrene over the balsa wood. Balsa is a very soft, and porous, wood. It soaks up moisture easily, and warps equally easily. Styrene does neither. Contact cement should hold the sandpaper to the styrene well.

Good luck, and I look forward to seeing photos.

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## dd1228 (Jan 26, 2015)

*Roads*

I use a foam sheet 1/8 inch thick I get at Hobby Lobby. Very easy to cut with scissors and h2o will not affect it. It comes in black and grey. Less than one dollar per sheet. I love the stuff.


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