# My first kit, Tips?



## REV (Sep 25, 2013)

So, like a goof i went to the LHS (they know me there....lol) and got a kit house (actually, a burger stand) to build. i was under the impression it would be a color molded building, but i was wrong! I figured some glue and id have a basic structure that i could detail later, but the whole thing came out off white...so time to learn how to paint. 

well, everyone at the LHS said they were REALLY impressed with the job i did and that they couldnt believe that it was my first kit. in reality, i have built one other kit before, when i was 7 i did a bigfoot kit....im 30 now, haha.

anywho, ill post pics in a minute since im not in my man cave. its not perfect, and all i had to work with was a testors paint kit and some primer (after finding out how bad i needed primer...). i think it came out ok and later i plan on adding some more details but its not bad


on to some questions: i also bought a haunted house 









thats lighted, but when its lit the light comes thru the plastic. should i just back paint the inside black? is there an "easy" way to do this, as my usual reaction would be to break out the spray paints but since theres windows and open shutters, id have a heck of a time keeping the paint contained. 

last, any tips on painting?


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## REV (Sep 25, 2013)

here she is boys. im not going to use the cardboard parking lot but i figure why not get some pics as its supposed to be?


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## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

paint the in sides any dark color. i use latex paint in the pint size cans. wide brush (1/4")
then cut in around the windows. next one, spray paint before putting it together and before the windows go on. you can scrap paint off the edges of the windows so glue will stick.

later when you feel comfortable building, you can put floors, walls,rooms and have small holes to let the light get to all spots, some can be dark, like not in use.

nice work.


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## REV (Sep 25, 2013)

the haunted house was a prefab, so no choice in the matter of the inside color. the burger joint i choose to leave tan.


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## Model Train Structures (Oct 10, 2013)

REV, nice job on your 1st painting structure project! :thumbsup: The stones in the back look especially good. It looks like you're on your way to painting your own buildings. Everyone has their own opinion on structures, so it's whatever you like that is important, but one thing I would probably add would be a little bit of dirt/weathering. The bottom part of buildings generally get the dirtiest with rain water splashing, cars passing, etc. Also around the door knob/handles are generally dirty. And, of course, the roof is dirty and often has some rusted parts. 

D.A.


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## REV (Sep 25, 2013)

already on that....ive been busy. 






















































(needs more paint on the backside.)


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## Model Train Structures (Oct 10, 2013)

Well, you certainly have been busy! Did you have to paint all of those or were some of them pre-colored? I particularly like the Inn/Restaurant. It reminds me of what the Howard Johnson's use to look like years ago. Way to go!
D.A.


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## REV (Sep 25, 2013)

all of them came "molded" in color, but all needed the detail work done (obviously) and the burger joint needed the rocks painted. 

most of the fun was taking the basic kits in their colors, and making them SO much better looking (at least for me.) 

soon, im going to start working on scratch built houses and see what happens...


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## daveh219 (Sep 16, 2012)

Good job REV...now what i would do is get some colored chalks at a local arts and craft shop and give 'em a little "character".....especially the haunted house. Don't like it just wash the chalk off....


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## REV (Sep 25, 2013)

oooh, what you use chalk for?!?!?


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## dannyrandomstate (Jan 1, 2012)

Lookin good for the first go around!


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Some guys use powdered chalk as a weathering agent. Some 
I've seen look very good.

I have not mastered that art. I use watered down craft paints
to weather buildings and cars. It is little more than dirty water
that you allow to flow down from the top of the buildings. It
follows the building contours just as rain stains a real building.
Sometimes a tiny brush touch here and there adds realism.

If I could make a suggestion...those bright green plastic trees on that
one building front would look good with some w/s fine grass
glued on them to soften their appearance.

I have several of those buildings, including the 'Howard Johnson's'
restaurant. It was a real chore to black out the plastic when I
lighted it. An interior light causes the walls and all to glow.
I used black paint, card stock and black electricians tape on the
interior walls to block the light from coming thru. If you plan
to light the buildings, black them out before you install them on
the layout.

It would be easier if you black out the panels before you assemble
the buildings.

Don


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

That does look like an old HO Joe, just paint all the blue trim an aqua-blue like in the picture. The roof can stay the color it is.









One good thing about using chalk for weathering is if you don't like it you can wipe it off and start all over. When you get something you like you just have to seal it in with a dull coat spray, or clear matte. But when you spray keep your distance or else you will blow a lot of the chalk off. Let the spray settle onto it instead of your normal spray painting techniques. 
And keep from touching the chalk or you will implant your finger prints too. If you use chalk you can just shave some of it and apply with a brush. You sort of dust it on to get the look you want.

I think that if you use watered down paint or a liquid you should turn the object your weathering upside down and let it drool up towards the top. In real life the piece will be more weathered towards the bottom then the top and turning it upside down will achieve that effect easier.


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## REV (Sep 25, 2013)

i have dullcoat here, not used it yet. soon, ill start working on interior stuff (and painting the insides black). Since the "theme" im going for is the bad side of the tracks, my buildings will end up being less lit than others just because you wouldnt have lit up closed places. I know the burger joint is going to be closed (no way to light it without seeing the bulb unless i did it from under the counter. ill be painting it black inside here soon and possibly trying my hand at scratch built booths/tables. 


one trick ive found kinda helpful is using glue runs to my advantage. occasionally those tiny widows get glue on the "glass" and some joints get a bit too much glue seeping out, so i brush them with the "shade" paint i have and it looks like buit up dirt. for my dirt wash, im using Citadel Agrax Earthshade (a paint for 40k models, its a very dark brown/black that can be a bit too much if applied to lighter colors) and when i paint it on light surfaces, i tend to dab a bit off with a towel so its not so stark. then, several layers can make a big difference. 

for rust, i first use a light brushing of Citadel Reikland Fleshshade with the Agrax over it. this works great on things like drainpipes or anything metal so you get that rusty aged look. 

also, the Agrax color works really good in corners of things like brick or metal pieces for both mortar and built up dirt, respectively. if you look at the front of the HOJO building, you can see the brick is painted. that was pure white when i put it together so i kept layering the brown & red in various areas to make it look more like brick

whew. lots ive learned in a few days!!!!

i need to figure out a way to easily convert stuff to scale measurements.


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## Model Train Structures (Oct 10, 2013)

REV said:


> !
> 
> *i need to figure out a way to easily convert stuff to scale measurements.*


This website has any 'scale' ruler you want, and they're not expensive.

http://www.rulers-of-the-world.com/

D.A.


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## Model Train Structures (Oct 10, 2013)

REV, Got any updated pics of your buildings/kits? Have you put them on your layout?

Thanks,
D.A.


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