# If you were starting from scratch...



## Walman (Dec 18, 2011)

What brand and code track would you use for your layout? Shelf layout 15' X 15' overall dog bone with several turnouts and sidings. The goal is running trains not exact modeling. DCC.

Also your favorite online site for HO track and turnouts?

Thank you,

Walman


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## Gansett (Apr 8, 2011)

I am starting from scratch and went with Atlas code 100. Now that I know a lot more from being on this forum I'd still go with Atlas code 100. Less expensive and readily available for one. As you said "running trains", I'm not a rivet counter.


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## waltr (Aug 15, 2011)

Hand laid code 83 (main line) & code 70 (branch lines and sidings). Also hand built turn-outs with power routed frogs.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

I like my trains to run and run well all the time so, Code 100 track.
Some say peco turnouts I'm fine with Atlas Mark IV turnouts, I use tortoise switch machines and that holds the points nice and tight!

Waltr, My good man you have way too much time and Patience! Hand laid track and turnouts!


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## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

Atlas NS C100 flex with Peco or Mark IV turnouts...oh wait, Sean already said that:thumbsup: 

Manual throws by Caboose Industries...


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

Atlas Flex code 100 track and Peco or Atlas Mark IV turnouts (powered by Tortoises when possible for the switches a distance from the control area. Caboose Industries throws for switches close to the control panel). Only exception is that I use Atlas snap track for bridges and raised areas as it does not bend and adds a little more support.


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

Atlas code 83. (You knew there had to be at least *ONE* of us out there!) I use Atlas Mark IV turnouts with Caboose Hobbies sprung ground throws.


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

As per the Code 100 vs 83 debate, what age are the cars you plan to run. If you will only be running newer cars and locomotives than either is fine. If you plan to run older locomotives or rolling stock then you may need the code 100 to clear the flanges. The flanges are deeper on the wheels on allot of the older items. I you are going to use European rolling stock some of them use pizza cutters for wheels.


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## 05Slowbalt (Dec 19, 2011)

flyboy2610 said:


> Atlas code 83. (You knew there had to be at least *ONE* of us out there!) I use Atlas Mark IV turnouts with Caboose Hobbies sprung ground throws.


Don't worry I run all code 83 with atlas turnouts. Not sure what type but I think there #6(?)


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

Atlas code 100 track and Peco switches. Simply because that almost anything old or new will run on code 100 track. Peco switches because they're a lot better switch with hardly any problems. I once had around 30 Atlas switches and turnouts. I replaced all but two with Peco switches. What I don't understand though is why is it that Atlas makes the best flex track and some of the best engines, the easiest to operate turntable, the eastest to install and operate control panel equipment but then they make such crappy switches. Go figure.:dunno:hwell: 

Routerman


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## Walman (Dec 18, 2011)

Thanks for the info. Sorry should have mentioned I will have essentially all new engines and rolling stock.

Favorite website for buying besides eBay?


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

My two favorite sites are Hobbylinc http://www.hobbylinc.com/ and Model Train Stuff http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Default.asp Both of these sites have an incredible inventory and sell at the lowest prices on the web. Both also sell building materials for layouts too. Hobbylinc also sells plastic models and merchandise for other types of hobbys as well. 

Hobbylinc is out of Atlanta and Model Train Stuff is out of Baltimore. Both also have great customer service. The reason I buy from both is because if one is out of stock on a particular item, the other usually has it. The only negative thing I can say about either of these is that Hobbylinc does not sell Athearn products. 

A few other sites that sell model trains are: Discount Trains Online http://www.discounttrainsonline.com/ Internet Hobbies http://www.internethobbies.com/ and Internet Trains http://www.internettrains.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc

Routerman


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## NSHO (Dec 28, 2011)

After days upon days of reading the forum for ideas, tips and advice, I just purchased my first track order from www.modeltrainstuff.com Ordered last Tuesday evening and expecting shipment today or tomorrow.

I purchased Atlas code 100 flex track (25pc), several #6 tunouts, (lh and rh), a couple #4 (lh and rh), xuron rail nippers and misc. I'm going to dry run the track and plan to order again from mts, great prices. I'll use my local hobby shop for emergency supplies


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

Looks like almost everyone here loves the Atlas Code 100 rails. I like it because of the cost and ease of finding it. Most everywhere has code 100 stuff, I dont count rivits so having a tall rail in a city does not bother me at all. I do have some old equipment that has deep flanges and I like to know that I can run it without any issues. As for my favorite place to buy stuff I first try my local hobby shops and if they dont have it then I do the online thing from Blue Ridge Hobbies, Walthers or E-bay.

Massey


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## Gansett (Apr 8, 2011)

A single piece of paper from my printer measures .004. 4 pieces measure .016.
Difference between Code 100 and Code 83 is .017. 

If you can tell the difference of .017 visually, God bless ya, especially from any distance.

Add in the cost difference plus availibilty it's almost a no brainer.


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## Walman (Dec 18, 2011)

Excellent info from all thanks. Code 100 here I come (I suspect).


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## waltr (Aug 15, 2011)

JackC said:


> A single piece of paper from my printer measures .004. 4 pieces measure .016.
> Difference between Code 100 and Code 83 is .017.
> 
> If you can tell the difference of .017 visually, God bless ya, especially from any distance.
> ...


Its not just the rail height that is different. The entire rail profile is smaller so it can be noticed even from a few feet away.

But I have no problem if your track is code 100 and it is working for you.


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## buck71usa (Dec 27, 2011)

http://www.tandkhobby.com/ and http://www.tonystrains.com/index.html r also good sites to get things competive prices and fast shipping!


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

Massey said:


> Looks like almost everyone here loves the Atlas Code 100 rails. I like it because of the cost and ease of finding it. Most everywhere has code 100 stuff, I dont count rivits so having a tall rail in a city does not bother me at all. I do have some old equipment that has deep flanges and I like to know that I can run it without any issues. As for my favorite place to buy stuff I first try my local hobby shops and if they dont have it then I do the online thing from Blue Ridge Hobbies, Walthers or E-bay.
> 
> Massey


You see, this all goes back to the eighties and early nineties when model railroading merchandise slowly began being manufactured to be more prototypical. The detailing on engines and rolling stock began to look more precise. Their quality improved. Engines ran much better and so did the rolling stock. Modelers were excited about the changes being made. I know I was.

One of the changes that several modelers however (myself included) did not like was the new size of the cork. The size of the cork was changed to be only half as thick as it once was in all scales simply because it supposedly was marketed as being prototypical. Manufacturers made a windfall on it because the product became became smaller and cheaper to make but they still charged the same amount for it. One big problem that came with this was that when they shrank the height of the cork, all of the existing trackside buildings no longer matched in size. Example: The loading docks of buildings became too high for the rolling stock. There were a lot of model railroaders that were very upset because of this.

This was very good for the manufacturers because new resized trackside buildings were sold to replace the old ones. Consequently, manufacturers again made millions in the transaction. Sometime after this, code 83 track was introduced. It was advertized as being prototypically correct in size. The brown colored ties was basically a marketing gimmick designed to entise the modeler into purchasing it. There was also a rumor that code 83 would be eventually replacing all the code 100 track on the market sometime in the near future. 

The majority of modelers expressed their opposition to manufacturers about this because none of their engines or rolling stock would operate on it because the wheel flanges of everything were to large and most modelers screamed enough is enough and stated that they refused to replace what they already had. Thus, manufacturers backed off and code 100 lived on and still does. Eventually as time goes on, code 83 will surpass code 100 in sales. I mean, have you noticed when looking at what is offered in track, there is more and more code 83 and less code 100? I remember when it used to be the total opposite. 

Also, what about plastic roadbed like that of True Track and EZ Track? Will plastic roadbeds eventually replace cork roadbeds completely? I'd really hate to see this happen because then modelers would be restricted as to how they could lay their tracks.

How about DCC? Though DCC is constantly growing in popularity and has become somewhat mostly the norm, as long as a market remains in place for DC, manufactures will still offer merchandise for it. But the market is ever shrinking as more and more modelers go with DCC. Have you noticed merchandise like transformers and DC engines are slowly becoming less and less available? Is the eventual end coming of DC, code 100, cork or foam roadbeds? I hope not. 

Routerman


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

If you put the Atlas Code83 and Code100 tracks side by side you can visually see the difference. Not just in the size of the rails and the brown color but in the dimensions of the ties (smaller timbers - a little thinner and less tall) and the spacing between the ties is a little larger.

As with anything, opinions vary and companies will produce products where there is a market for those products. Some would say why would you lay your own track when flex-track is available - afterall, they both do the same thing, right?

I did build from scratch and chose Atlas Code100 and Mark IV switches. My kids have a ton of older cars they like and I wanted anything to work. It looks just fine and was significantly less expensive which was a primary concern for me as I had a ton of track to buy. After ballasting and detailing you'll have a hard time looking at a scene and not thinking the rails are real (unless you're really picky.)

Some don't like the Mark IV's but I've had little trouble with mine (I think I've got over 30 on the layout.) The only trouble I've had with derailments in in the switch points, they sometimes drop a little where the point meets the rail, a little posterboard shim under the moving tie at the points has cured the couple I had issues with.


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## Walman (Dec 18, 2011)

Oops forgot a question. A couple of people mention Atlas code 100 track but using PECO code 100 turnouts. Do they match-up fit wise pretty well or do you need to work them alot to make a great fit?

Thank you


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

It fits nice and easy!


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Code100 is Code100 regardless of the manufacturer so long as it doesn't have the pre-made roadbed (EZ-track, Unitrack, etc.) They all use the same joiners.


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## waltr (Aug 15, 2011)

Walman said:


> Oops forgot a question. A couple of people mention Atlas code 100 track but using PECO code 100 turnouts. Do they match-up fit wise pretty well or do you need to work them alot to make a great fit?
> 
> Thank you


Yep, I have used this combination with perfect results. Just slip on the rail joints and connect.


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## Rail Jumper (Dec 14, 2010)

So, if code 100 is being phased out and replaced with code 83. And I am starting from scratch. Should I go with code 83 from the start? so I don't have to worry about it going obsolete?
I plan on going DCC and I have bought about 50 new rolling stock. But like I said I am just starting out in this hobby so now is the time to decide. Also I am learning a lot. And I have found that this hobby is a lot more complicating and expensive than I first thought it was.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

I wouldn't say code 100 is being phased out, they just introduced 83 into the mainstream to get more sales form the proto typical gang.
Trains ain't cheap that's for sure! DCC is far from a cheap side of it too!


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

Who ever said Code 100 is being phased out? It is too common and too popular to phase out. I could see it happening if Code 83 were to be selling better but I see more stuff with code 100 than code 83.

Massey


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

Massey said:


> Who ever said Code 100 is being phased out? It is too common and too popular to phase out. Massey


That's why it won't be..... for now. You have to look at the time period when they introduced code 83. Manufacturers had already reduced the size of the cork. Like Shawn said, this was all basically done originally to please the "prototypical" crowd. And I remember at that time shopping was done mostly at local hobbyshops, and the word going around then was that code 83 was eventually going to replace code 100. 

But like you say, as long as the sales for code 100 are strong, it will be with us. I know that I'll always continue to use it. But be that as it may, I've noticed how code 83 has increased in sales just the last few years. Advertizing of it now takes up half if not more of the sale pages on most online hobbyshops. I remember a time when the opposite was true.

Routerman


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## CNW413 (Jul 14, 2011)

Atlas code 83 is my favorite. They offer flex track and a variety of switches. Code 83 is more to scale. Model Train Stuff .com has a huge selection of track.


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## cabledawg (Nov 30, 2010)

I used EZ track for my first layout, which has worked quite well since this layout is also a play area for the kids. And everything needed to have the ability to come apart for moves (which we do alot of).

But now that I'm looking at building a more permanent layout in my new home, I'll be using the EZ track at first, then replacing with C100 and soldering the joints. I dont have a particular brand, but it has to be NS. I have steel right now and it isnt bad, but isnt that old either.


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

Cabledawg, just remember not to solder all the joints, every other one, and leave a small gap in the rails where I dont solder is my rule of thumb. Also I drop a feeder to every section of soldered railjoiners, which provides me with good conductivity even through the non soldered track sections. I do this to allow the wood and rails freedom to expand and contract based on the weather, humidity and temp. So far I have not had a single track come out of alignment, or train derail on my layout.

Massey


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