# Best glues for Lionel plastic?



## eljefe (Jun 11, 2011)

I have a 1949 Lionel gondola car with a big chunk of the floor broken out. Looks like it was stepped on or something heavy fell on it. Regardless, I want to make sure I reattach it with a glue that doesn't melt or warp the plastic. What glues work well with this material?


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

eljefe said:


> I have a 1949 Lionel gondola car with a big chunk of the floor broken out. Looks like it was stepped on or something heavy fell on it. Regardless, I want to make sure I reattach it with a glue that doesn't melt or warp the plastic. What glues work well with this material?



I guess you will paint it after a repair?

Why not use a plastic epoxy mixture?
See the T (epoxy) Mans threads, he goes through gallons of epoxy on repairs.:thumbsup:
That way you can mold the epoxy into the crack to smooth it out.

If it is just the floor you can repair it and add a load of something to cover it.
Load of scrap metal? Or something. Then you wouldn't even have to paint it.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

JB-Weld, greatest stuff since sliced bread.


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Epoxy? I got some.









For a hole, tape over it and back fill with epoxy, sand and paint.
You can insert steel wire for extra support if needed.

I use a piece of cardboad to dispense and a round toothpick to mix and then apply. If you have pieces then I use super glue to fit up then epoxy the back side for strength . Rough up the plastic first with a little sanding.

To sand the bottom of a gondola, use a small block of wood with sandpaper or try a disposable nail file. Cut it to fit and use a square pop stick to push it or just bend it at an angle. For small places I cut to fit.










No more hole.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I just started using the JB-KWIK, you have to be a bit more organized as it sets up quickly. They say 5 minutes, but you really only have about two minutes before you can't work it anymore.

I still use the standard stuff if I feel I want more time to put it together.

The nice thing about either is you only mix what you need, so one set of tubes lasts almost forever.


----------



## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I love JB Weld, though I've only used the slower-set (normal) stuff. It cures overnight, so you need to plan your work steps accordingly.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I had the 5 minute stuff around for months before I decided to try it. Most of the time, the repairs I'm doing work pretty well with the quick setting stuff, but sometimes the longer setup times are a benefit.


----------



## jreid (May 9, 2011)

I now need to glue the nose of an FA together, before I try, does Acetone work on the body plastic? Looking for an invisible mend, I bought it on Ebay and the idiot shipped it in an unpadded envelope, needless to say there was damage.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Acetone will eat many plastics, so I'd test underneath the shell first where it won't show. I don't know about invisible mends...


----------



## jreid (May 9, 2011)

Acetone doesnt even phase it, going to need to use Super Glue or Epoxy. Real shame as it was a nice looking piece, all of the decals are not damaged and it runs well too. Might need to find a replacement shell worse case.

Still can not believe that someone would just stick a nice locomotive in a big manilla envelope and mail it. Doesnt matter if he insured it as the packing was unsatisfactiory by any standard


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I think I'd send it back and insist on my money back.


----------



## jreid (May 9, 2011)

The heat of the moment anger has passed, I got it cheap enough that the parts are worth the price paid and I am still confident that I can fix it. Got the couplers fixed and have all of the broken plastic fitted so when I do glue them there should be little or no visible damage ( unless you look really close ) I paid $30 for an Alco FA AB pair, the motor and E unit work real nice and the cosmetics on the B unit are pristine. I think I got my moneys worth but did send the Seller a nastygram.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'd still get some sort of credit for the damage. When I sell stuff that gets damaged on eBay (only twice), I offer a credit or return, it's just not worth the fight otherwise. I expect the same from other sellers.


----------



## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

tjcruiser said:


> I love JB Weld, though I've only used the slower-set (normal) stuff. It cures overnight, so you need to plan your work steps accordingly.


Totally *not* railroad related:

Just used some of the marine stuff for a quick/emergency radiator repair in a 1985 Chevy C-30 truck. set up in about 60 minutes and was cured in about 3 hours. No more leak where that repair was done.

:thumbsup:

- Paul in AZ


----------



## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

I bought some intermodal well cars recently. They had no packing whatsoever inside the original box. That box was packed in a larger box that was well padded. When I opened the small box most of the plastic coupler tongues were broken. I ended up using my old blue box CSX ones and used the metal trucks from the broken ones on my blue box cars. I was not happy. I should have just bought metal trucks for my BB cars.
-Art


----------



## jreid (May 9, 2011)

Well, I am a happy camper, no before pictures but I did take some afters, I was fortunate in that the parts fit together well I applied a drop of Superglue to each part as I reassembled and then after a few minutes I dropped some into the seams inside the shell

there were four distinct breaks, the most obvious one was the apron under the coupler, I am now happy with my $30 AB set, I also think that I will avoid using that front coupler, just in case


----------



## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You can also probably touch-up the marks if there are obvious ones.


----------



## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

The scratches in the warbonnet simply indicate that this particular FA took out a rather tall bull moose while riding the open road.

I like the effect of the FasTrack on the vinyl roof with the barn and silo in the distance.


----------



## eljefe (Jun 11, 2011)

Getting on of those for $30 is a pretty good deal!


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

To add strength to the lower jaw, take a paper clip and form it to the inside curve and then epoxy a layer on it. The same thing I did with N scale but larger. Use two pieces and just cover the joints.


----------

