# Stainless Steel vs Nickel Silver Track



## elliottATL

What are the differences between Stainless Steel vs Nickel Silver Track? And is there any issues using both interchangeably? I guess my Power-loc track is stainless steel while my standard atlas track is nickel silver. I don't perceive any issues using both, but I was looking online to buy more Power-loc pieces, and need to decide between the metals.


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## Bucklaew

I prefer the Nickle Silver track because it does not corrode as the steel.


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## jzrouterman

elliottATL said:


> What are the differences between Stainless Steel vs Nickel Silver Track? And is there any issues using both interchangeably?




Another thing to think about is the potential for stainless steel to rust, like especially when glueing ballast down on it. The glue has water in it, and water causes rust. Having to deal with a little oxidation is one thing, but rust would really ruin your day when trying to run your trains. Not only this, but the part of the country that you're from (I live in Georgia too...Gainesville) has an average of somewhat high humidity which means there's normally a lot of moisture in the air, which over time can cause steel, stainless or otherwise to rust as well. 

They say it won't and most likely, it probably won't. But the potential is there, just the same. I mean, it did with me, and when it did, it seemed like it was all at once, as well. IMHO, nickel silver is the way to go, as it won't rust like stainless steel. It won't tarnish like brass and has a much lower oxidation rate. As far as the different metels being compatable with one another on the same layout, yes they are. You can use both and it'll be fine

Routerman.


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## elliottATL

Thanks for the responses. It's good to hear that the differences shouldn't impact the track performance. Since I don't nail the track down, if track pieces start to rust, I guess I can just replace them. As silly as this may sound, for the power-loc track, the base of the steel is black and the base of the nickel is grey... So I think for consistency I'll need to stick with steel.


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## tjcruiser

I'm saying this off the top of my head (so don't hold me to this), but I don't think that "steel alloy" track is actually a grade of stainless steel ... if so, certainly not a higher grade of stainless.

If you're investing in new stuff, I'd go with the nickel silver ... much better in the long run.

TJ


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## CircusFreakGritz

Hmm, does anyone know if HO scale Atlas Flextrack, code 100, is Nickel Silver or not?


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## ceilingtrains.com

I know the Atlas O thats called Nickel Silver is actually Stainless Steel. I have left a few pcs outside for 2 years to see how they corrode and they are just like new after i wipe off the dust. I know when i was cutting them in my bandsaw the track was so hard it would remove all the teeth from my blade so i have went to a small chopsaw to cut them...Bob


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## jzrouterman

CircusFreakGritz said:


> Hmm, does anyone know if HO scale Atlas Flextrack, code 100, is Nickel Silver or not?


Yes it is.

Routerman


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## CircusFreakGritz

Ok good. I have some Bachmann EZ Track from a set when I was a kid and the other day I wanted to use it to test some locos I bought off eBay. I have the black track which I think has steel rails, and it doesn't work too well anymore. Glad the Atlas is nickel silver.


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## jzrouterman

CircusFreakGritz said:


> I have the black track which I think has steel rails, and it doesn't work too well anymore.


Just because the ties are black doesn't automatically mean that the rails are steel. I use code 100 track which has black ties but the rails are nickel silver. More than likely the reason that track doesn't work all that great anymore is not because it may or may not be steel, but rather, all it may really need is to be cleaned. Use a track erasor if you have one, if not, then use a little alchohol on a rag against the rails and you'll probably see a big difference. Also be sure to clean the underside of the rails at the ends where the connectors will be grasping, to ensure a good electrical connection. 

I'm using some track and some turnouts that I bought new back in 1985. A few other pieces even sat dorment, packed away for almost 18 years. After a good cleaning though, they were as good as new. 

Routerman


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## CircusFreakGritz

jzrouterman said:


> Just because the ties are black doesn't automatically mean that the rails are steel. I use code 100 track which has black ties but the rails are nickel silver. More than likely the reason that track doesn't work all that great anymore is not because it may or may not be steel, but rather, all it may really need is to be cleaned. Use a track erasor if you have one, if not, then use a little alchohol on a rag against the rails and you'll probably see a big difference. Also be sure to clean the underside of the rails at the ends where the connectors will be grasping, to ensure a good electrical connection.
> 
> I'm using some track and some turnouts that I bought new back in 1985. A few other pieces even sat dorment, packed away for almost 18 years. After a good cleaning though, they were as good as new.
> 
> Routerman


Thanks for the reply. I understand that track color generally has nothing to do with the material used. But in the case of *Bachmann* EZ Track, I think the gray base signifies nickel silver and the black signifies steel. And since I have the *black* EZ track, mine must be steel.

From an Amazon.com page:



> Product Features
> 
> * Steel Alloy rail
> * Black roadbed


http://www.amazon.com/Bachmann-Trai...QH6A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1293730426&sr=8-2

Thanks for pointing that out though; track color doesn't necessarily correspond to material used for the rails. And another good idea, I should try to clean with an eraser.


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## jzrouterman

But in the case of [B said:


> Bachmann[/B] EZ Track, I think the gray base signifies nickel silver and the black signifies steel. And since I have the *black* EZ track, mine must be steel.[


Really? I never knew that. But then of course, I've just always used Atlas code 100. About the erasor, be sure it's a "track" erasor, as an erasor that is made for erasing pencil lines won't work all that great. Thanks for the infor about EZ track.

Routerman


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