# DCC loco funny bahavoir



## pat_smith1969 (Aug 21, 2016)

I purchased a Bachmann DCC onboard Diesel from ebay for $25. I tested it on a DC only setup and it works great, when I put it on my DCC layout and tried to read it's code it said 00.. SO I set it to another number (the number on the side of the loco). When I set my DCC controller to run in DC mode it is completely dead.. when I try to run it using the number with my DCC controller it is completely dead. but when I run it on my DC layout with a Bachmann DC controller it runs great.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Have you checked to see that it does, in fact,
have a DCC decoder on board?

Don


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## pat_smith1969 (Aug 21, 2016)

I opened it up.. there is a computer board across the top with some LEDs and some small wires.

Also on the bottom of the unit where the fuel tanks are.. there is a door that unscrews and there is some resistors and stuff in there.


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## pat_smith1969 (Aug 21, 2016)

I do not see any 8 or 21 pin connector sockets.


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## Genetk44 (Feb 26, 2016)

pat_smith1969 said:


> I do not see any 8 or 21 pin connector sockets.


Could you take and post pictures with the body shell off?


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## pat_smith1969 (Aug 21, 2016)

will do.. give me an hour.


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## pat_smith1969 (Aug 21, 2016)

Here are some pics.. I left them large for now so you can zoom in.. I usually shrink them for web purposes.


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## Genetk44 (Feb 26, 2016)

I don't think thats a Decoder. And you have a potential short with that orange wire on the side of the engine that is missing its insulation.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Yes, I agree with Genetk. What you have is
a DC loco with a light board. The yellow devices
around the motor are capacitors for RF noise control.
You will need a DCC decoder and you will most
likely have to remove most if not all of the circuits
on the light board.

Installation of the decoder is not a difficult job
but you will need to solder the new wires.

A DCC decoder is usually a plastic enclosed
device with 8 wires of various colors running
out of it. It is usually only about an inch to an and
a half long.

The loco has a split frame electric system, with these
there usually are no wires from the trucks to the
inside. I've installed a decoder in a loco using this
system. it is fairly easy.

Don


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## DavefromMD (Jul 25, 2013)

That looks like the Bachmann DCC decoder. I have 3 Bachmann DCC locomotives.

Here's a picture of the replacement for it. It is designed to be a drop in for it.
http://www.traintekllc.com/nce-bach...ann-diesels/?gclid=CN2NkbqZiM8CFVhZhgodHe8H4w

Are you sure the locomotive wasn't programmed to some other ID? Did you try the default 03?


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## JerryH (Nov 18, 2012)

I think it is a decoder since it has several IC chips on it. Light boards don't usually have those. Check with Bachman to see if you can do a default reset.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

that's apparantly a bachmann original equipment DCC decoder, model H601X ...
there is some information on the bachmann forums as well


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## Genetk44 (Feb 26, 2016)

wvgca said:


> that's apparantly a bachmann original equipment DCC decoder, model H601X ...
> there is some information on the bachmann forums as well


Well then that orange wire missing its insulation and lieing against the motor housing in the third pic really can't be a good thing.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

Genetk44 said:


> Well then that orange wire missing its insulation and lieing against the motor housing in the third pic really can't be a good thing.


Definitely, didn't notice that at first glance, if that decoder follows NMRA wiring colors it should be the motor right output ..
If it was shorted it may possibly have damaged the decoder, moving it away from the housing and insulating it would be a good first step ..


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## Genetk44 (Feb 26, 2016)

wvgca said:


> Definitely, didn't notice that at first glance, if that decoder follows NMRA wiring colors it should be the motor right output ..
> If it was shorted it may possibly have damaged the decoder, moving it away from the housing and insulating it would be a good first step ..


And that could be why the op isn't having much luck with the DCC.


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## pat_smith1969 (Aug 21, 2016)

slipped a piece of card board behind it as I didn't want to pull on it much. Then I cased the whole thing is liquid electric tape (well I guess it isn't tape.. but you know.) . 










Once it dries I will test it. But I might need to replace the decoder, maybe one with sound. If I cannot get it working.. honestly it was $25 and I can still use it to practice painting locos.


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## pat_smith1969 (Aug 21, 2016)

Well that didn't work. It is pretty clear that the DCC board is toast at the least. The only question now is.. is it worth it to buy a new DCC controller (with Sound) and replace it? Would I be throwing good money after bad?

If I pick up a $80 controller with sound (plus another $15 for a good speaker) and I end up with a working unit that is worth it (after I repair the bad wire.).. but what else in there might be burned out? If I pick up a new controller and speaker and I end up with an inert piece of "Yard Dressing" then it would not be worth it.

Of course if I buy the board and it doesn't work, I can always buy another DC loco and put it on that I suppose. I would be a fun project I think.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

pat_smith1969 said:


> . The only question now is.. is it worth it to buy a new DCC controller (with Sound) and replace it? Would I be throwing good money after bad?


You had mentioned in post #1 that it ran on DC, so it's probably no more than the decoder, maybe the leds as well, but doubtful.
When I searched on the model number of the decoder, there was a link for a drop in decoder [no sound] for under $20, so there is another option as well..


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

At least you know why it was only $25 now! The old adage if it sounds too good to be true it probably is is a good one, especially when buying off eBay! 

You could certainly add sound if you wanted using a sugar cube speaker in the fuel tank area. There's no reason to think you'll be wasting money. . Apparently the capacitors and resistors are not required for DCC so that will give you more room. You will remove the board and hard wire your decoder of choice. Should be fairly straightforward. Although not for sound this might help you http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Bachmann/GP35/GP35.html

You need to double check where the wires connect to as not all manufacturers follows the NMRA colour code.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

I think you need to replace the orange wire entirely and I think Cycleops suggestion of a sugar cube and sound decoder are worth the effort. Its unlikely that the motor has actually sustained damage, the decoder motor control probably acted as an expensive fuse!


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

Those resistors and caps in the fuel tank are probably noise suppression and you should not need to mess with those.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Looks like I guessed wrong again. It is a DCC decoder
per earlier pic of one.

Obviously. the input of the decoder is getting
power since the loco runs on DC. 

Does this decoder have a shunt. plug or
switch for DC vs DCC?

Don


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

it might be worthwhile to hook a dc transformer supply directly to the motor leads, just to verify the motor is okay, wouldn't take much time


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## Genetk44 (Feb 26, 2016)

I still say that bare orange wire llaying across the metal motor body is part of the problem.


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## highvoltage (Apr 6, 2014)

Genetk44 said:


> I still say that bare orange wire llaying across the metal motor body is part of the problem.


In post #16 though, he shows that he spaced it away from the case and repaired it.


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## Genetk44 (Feb 26, 2016)

highvoltage said:


> In post #16 though, he shows that he spaced it away from the case and repaired it.


Yeah....but not until 1) after he already tried the loco on his DCC system which might have fried the existing decoder and 2) he didn't really repair the wire itself..he just sort of insulated it...but look at the earlier pic....the copper wires seem frayed and very insubstantial, I wouldn't want to rely on them to power the motor and a new decoder, especially a sound decoder

If he is going to spend the money on a new decoder and possibly speaker etc., then really that whole length of orange wire should be replaced.


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## highvoltage (Apr 6, 2014)

Genetk44 said:


> Yeah....but not until 1) after he already tried the loco on his DCC system which might have fried the existing decoder and 2) he didn't really repair the wire itself..he just sort of insulated it...but look at the earlier pic....the copper wires seem frayed and very insubstantial, I wouldn't want to rely on them to power the motor and a new decoder, especially a sound decoder
> 
> If he is going to spend the money on a new decoder and possibly speaker etc., then really that whole length of orange wire should be replaced.


I agree, the wire needs to be replaced. But his repair should have eliminated the short, so there's more going on. Board and wire replacement are needed, if he wishes to go that route.


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## Genetk44 (Feb 26, 2016)

highvoltage said:


> I agree, the wire needs to be replaced. But his repair should have eliminated the short, so there's more going on. Board and wire replacement are needed, if he wishes to go that route.


Oh his repair probably did eliminate the short...too late unfortunately since the damage was probably already done to the decoder.


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