# #312 K-5 4-6-2 Pacific Exploded View



## Nuttin But Flyer

I just picked this item up at a train show this past weekend for next to nothing. It seems to run OK, but far from well and does not smoke. This unit happens to have smoke in the tender (s.i.t.). The Bob Conner online AF Service Manual has nearly every steam loco exploded view shown except this (s.i.t.) variation. It shows the 312 variation with smoke in the boiler (s.i.b.). I'm sure I can perform the usual servicing to the motor, etc. with the available service manual views, but would like a view that shows the tender with smoke unit. I know this is the bellows type which is known to have its issues. Does anyone have an exploded parts view and corresponding parts listing for this particular item that they could post or send to me?


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## Aflyer

NBF,
I don't have a diagram, but I do have a SIT 312, and mine is the piston driven type,easy to work on, and it is cool that it smokes when idling.
Good luck with repair, and hope you find you have a piston type instead of the bellows unit.
Aflyer


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## Nuttin But Flyer

I have not yet opened her up to see what is inside. But my recollection was that all s.i.t. 312's were the bellows type. It was later that Gilbert furnished a conversion to change it to piston type. If mine is still the bellows type, I may decide to change it over as well rather than fixing a problem only to have it re-occur. Any idea if those conversion kits are still available?


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## Reckers

Voila!

http://myflyertrains.org/gallery/album209?page=7


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Thanks Reckers, but that's not it. The 312 you linked does not show the smoke unit in the tender, but rather a smoke unit in the boiler. Mine has it in the tender. I would like an exploded view of it that identifies each part and, hopefully, part number too.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

I have never had a smoke in the tender engine before, so this is my first experience with one. All the more reason I would like to get an exploded view and parts list. My in-experience with this item already has me puzzled. On top of the tender, there is a small brass knurled screw, sort of like a cap. It is offset toward the tender side rather than centered. I'm guessing this is where the smoke fluid is introduced, but I'm not sure. Anyone ?????


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## Rich_Trains

NBF,
This is as close as I could find. It's from the K-Line _Complete Service Manual for American Flyer Trains._ I missed it a few times because of the obscure page title
Rich


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## Aflyer

NBF, 
The document that Rich Trains psoted looks like my 312 SIT. Also you are correct the offset knurled knob on tender is where you put the smoke fluid.
Aflyer


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Thanks guys. I guess I need to open up my tender and see what's inside before jumping to conclusions. But if it is the bellows type smoke unit, it is probably best to convert it to piston type no matter what rather than trying to repair it. Again, does anyone know if that piston type conversion kit is still available should I find that mine is the bellows type?

Thanks Aflyer -- I didn't want to assume that is what it is then dumping smoke fluid into without being sure. Perhaps all it needs is some fluid to start smoking again?? Think I'll give that a try before anything else.


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## Aflyer

NBF,
Oh yeah I would definately put some smoke fluid in that puppy and give it a try.
Can you see the black hose that connects the smoke unit in the tender to the stack in the boiler, and is it in good shape? Mine was connected and didn't have any holes in it. But I did end up changing it out becasue it was so short the tender wheels would lift off the track on a couple of curves. Took me a while to figure that one out.
Good luck,
Aflyer


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## Stillakid

*Portlines!*

Here's the instruction page too.

http://www.portlines.com/portlinesclinic35.htm


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## Nuttin But Flyer

There is a black hose which I reconnected but it still did not smoke after adding fluid. However, when adding fluid it seemed as though it didn't want to seep down into the smoke unit from the fill. I used a funnel and then a toothpick to attempt to break any air bubbles that might be trapped preventing the fluid to seep down. Eventually I did succeed, although not much fluid was added. But there still was no smoke. I disassembled the tender body from the chassis and found the original bellows type smoke unit. Although dirty and spotted with grease, it still seemed to turn easily. I had already disconnected the loco and attached the transformer leads to the tender chassis wheels to try the smoke unit. Still nothing...but as the rear tender turned, it made contact, sparked and moved. I found that the rear smoke unit wire had come free from the rear tender connection. After resoldering it, then trying it again, it smoked well but not continuously. It seems to smoke well when it begins, but after maybe 15 secs it sort of drops off to nothing. I'm guessing this may be lack of fluid or the wick material may be too old and hardened to function -- perhaps a combination of both. All-in-all, this baby needs some routine servicing and cleaning before I write off the bellows type smoker. But the important question has been answered....it does work.

While I am writing about this engine, does anyone know if the small lanterns/jewels that are located in the corners of the tender rear, the boiler front top and the front pilot are brass material? They seem to have a shine to them but mine are either covered with so much gunk and/or black paint that very little brass shows through. I am compelled to clean these with a Dremel or some other method to get them shiny again. However, if that is incorrect, I don't want to ruin the vintage look. I have attempted to find good photos showing these but alas there never seem to be any when you need them. Can anybody tell me or post a good photo of one? And.....what's the best way to clean/polish the handrails? I tried a Scotchbrite pad, 2000 grit sandpaper (which seemed to be the best method) and contact cleaner. But none of these has produced extremely shiny handrails that look like new. Any suggestions???


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## Nuttin But Flyer

Stillakid -- Thanks for the link. They sound like good instructions, I only wish Doug would have included photos or drawings of the unit too for reference. But I'll give it a shot and see what happens.


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## Stillakid

Nuttin, with no power to the tender, using a ohm-meter, it should read between somewhere between 36-46 ohms. If below that, you won't get good smoke. 
The tender lamps are not brass. Leave them black, unless you want to change their color.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

I am assuming the jewels in those lanterns are glued in place -- how are they replaced??
Do they pop out easily?


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## Aflyer

NBF,
I am glad to hear you have had some success with your smoke unit. I have read that you can squirt some WD40 into the smoke box to break up any hardened or crystilized smoke fluid, might be worth a shot.
I have replaced the jewels on one of my old 312's, as they were missing. Just used a little superglue to hold them in place. I used red ones on the rear of the tender and the green ones in front. I don't think the red ones are original but I thought they added a nice look.
Aflyer


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## Nuttin But Flyer

This one has the green ones all around, but I was thinking of doing the same thing you did. Red in the rear seems to make more sense anyway....gotta wonder why they made them with green all around?? Since none of mine are missing, how do you pop out the jewels so I can exchange them?


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## gunrunnerjohn

The reason the jewels were green is red is not a color that is normally used on the front of a locomotive. Red would be for double-heading for the rear engine.

_*White.* Indicated an "extra" train not shown in the timetable. For much of railroad history, train-movement authority was granted by timetables. If a train was listed in the timetable, it had the authority to operate according to its printed schedule. Deviations from the timetable, such as a train running late, were handled with train orders from the dispatcher. Under this "timetable-and-train-order" system, it was important that trains kept as close to schedule as possible, and that any special trains not shown in the timetable be clearly identified as such with a white light. Many freight trains operated as extras, and thus carried a white classification signal.

*Green.* Indicated that, while the train displaying the lights was a regularly scheduled one, a second section was following behind it. This was done, for example, when ridership demand exceeded the capacity of a single passenger train. If there were too many passengers for a single section of, say, New York Central's 20th Century Limited, a second section was operated, and, if needed, a third, fourth, fifth, and even sixth. The engine of each section except the last would display green lights. While each section was a separate entity, the timetable's "train 25" would not be considered to have passed a given point until the last section of the train had gone by. For operational convenience, special trains that otherwise might have carried white "extra" signals were sometimes operated as advance or second sections of regular, but unrelated, trains.

*Red.* Indicated the end of a train. A train, be it a single engine, a group of engines, or an engine(s) with cars, must have a marker on the rear end. In the (relatively rare) situations when the last element in a train would be a locomotive, the red lights would be lit. _


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## Aflyer

NBF,
I can't say I ever removed one, all of mine had fallen out. I think a small pen knife or "borrow" a paring knife from the kitchen you should be able to pop them out.
I took a small drillbit and very gently cleaned the tapered hole prior to glueing the new ones in.
Good luck and let us know how it works.
Aflyer


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## Nuttin But Flyer

I have new red jewels on order from Portlines as well as other items for this engine. Until they get here, I'll be working on my #290. But if I feel ambitious, I may try to pop out one of the rear green jewels to see how it can be done safely/carefully. It's a shame they don't light up. I bet it would look real nice if they did.


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## Aflyer

Don,
Well now there is a challenge! Some of those little led lights a little wire and you could have something really unique.
Has anyone else tried this?

Aflyer


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## Nuttin But Flyer

From what I have seen, only glancing at my engine, it would take a great deal of intricate hobby work to route wires through all the small items that will house the LED's. I suppose it could be done, but I'm not about to make any attempt on THIS engine. Maybe if I run across a cheap basket-case someday I might consider it. Although if anyone else here has made this type of attempt, it would be nice to see the result.


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## gdnsteam309

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> I have new red jewels on order from Portlines as well as other items for this engine. Until they get here, I'll be working on my #290. But if I feel ambitious, I may try to pop out one of the rear green jewels to see how it can be done safely/carefully. It's a shame they don't light up. I bet it would look real nice if they did.


gunrunnerjohn, Thanks so much for this information. I recently posted a similar question on the American Flyer Trains group on Facebook about the proper use of marker lights on model trains. Although I guess it's personal taste on how you want your loco/tender to look, your information is both interesting & valuable. Thank you. Hope you don't mind, but I've add a link this forum topic, including your explanation about marker light rules.


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## Nuttin But Flyer

gdnsteam - I saw that and took part in that posting. I too, am a member of both groups. You'll find the greatest of info here and there. Everyone is willing to provide assistance.


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## flyernut

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> There is a black hose which I reconnected but it still did not smoke after adding fluid. However, when adding fluid it seemed as though it didn't want to seep down into the smoke unit from the fill. I used a funnel and then a toothpick to attempt to break any air bubbles that might be trapped preventing the fluid to seep down. Eventually I did succeed, although not much fluid was added. But there still was no smoke. I disassembled the tender body from the chassis and found the original bellows type smoke unit. Although dirty and spotted with grease, it still seemed to turn easily. I had already disconnected the loco and attached the transformer leads to the tender chassis wheels to try the smoke unit. Still nothing...but as the rear tender turned, it made contact, sparked and moved. I found that the rear smoke unit wire had come free from the rear tender connection. After resoldering it, then trying it again, it smoked well but not continuously. It seems to smoke well when it begins, but after maybe 15 secs it sort of drops off to nothing. I'm guessing this may be lack of fluid or the wick material may be too old and hardened to function -- perhaps a combination of both. All-in-all, this baby needs some routine servicing and cleaning before I write off the bellows type smoker. But the important question has been answered....it does work.
> 
> While I am writing about this engine, does anyone know if the small lanterns/jewels that are located in the corners of the tender rear, the boiler front top and the front pilot are brass material? They seem to have a shine to them but mine are either covered with so much gunk and/or black paint that very little brass shows through. I am compelled to clean these with a Dremel or some other method to get them shiny again. However, if that is incorrect, I don't want to ruin the vintage look. I have attempted to find good photos showing these but alas there never seem to be any when you need them. Can anybody tell me or post a good photo of one? And.....what's the best way to clean/polish the handrails? I tried a Scotchbrite pad, 2000 grit sandpaper (which seemed to be the best method) and contact cleaner. But none of these has produced extremely shiny handrails that look like new. Any suggestions???


2000 grit wet/dry paper is what I use.


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