# joining kato to atlas track ho scale



## little fat buddy

hi guys just wondered what are some ways i could use atlas track and kato unitrack together in ho scale mainly wanting to use atlas turnouts since the kato ones are a tad pricey thanks 
LFB


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## prrfan

little fat buddy said:


> hi guys just wondered what are some ways i could use atlas track and kato unitrack together in ho scale mainly wanting to use atlas turnouts since the kato ones are a tad pricey thanks
> LFB


It's easy. Kato HO Unitrack is code 83 so be sure your Atlas track is also Code 83. Get the Atlas track up to the same level as the Kato using cork roadbed, foam etc. 
Remove the Unijoiner from the Unitrack and use regular rail joiners. You may find that a Code 83 joiner is a bit loose on the Unitrack because the foot or base of the rail is smaller. 
You can use Peco code 70 joiners for this. They fit the Unitrack well. They are a bit snug on the Atlas but they will go on and it makes a good tight connection. 
I suppose you could crimp a code 83 joiner but I think the code 70 is a cleaner way to go. 
I don't solder my connections because I like to change the track work once in a while but you certainly could. I never have had any conductivity problems. 
Hope this helps and have fun!
Dan


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## little fat buddy

okay awesome do you have a part number for the peco rail joiners i will give thsi a try and see how ti goes thanks again lfb.


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## prrfan

You are welcome and I'm glad you asked about the part #. SL-110
They are actually Code 75, not 70 as I previously said. Sorry. 
I got them from EBay fairly easily. 

There is also a way to use N scale rail joiners to do this. You can search that thread but I think the Code 75 joiners work well. Hope this helps.


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## little fat buddy

awesome yeah i find it alot easier to search for stuff using part numbers this also coems from my other hobby of radio controlled cars i will buy a pack of these joiners and give it a try thank you again for your help 
lfb.


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## prrfan

One further footnote I would add, LFB: This connection with the rail joiners is good electrically but realize when the Unijoiner is removed there is no more locking mechanism between the two track sections.
Simply securing at least the spliced sections of track to the underlayment will prevent the sections from coming apart. 
If you are building a permanent layout I would assume all the track will be secured down. 
Looking forward to see how your layout progresses. 
Dan


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## little fat buddy

thanks dan yes i'm building a permnent layout all track will be atached to the surface some how im going to use some sort of adheasive probably caulk or the woodland scenics foam tack glue to secure stuff since i have a layer of 2'' inch foam board as a base that is on top of plywood i will be using atlas code 83 for my turnouts the kato ones are kinda pricey and also for the tracks over my biridge will be atlas cuz the height is too tall to use the kato not enough clearnce space thank you for your help alot 
LFB


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## little fat buddy

what thickness do i need to use to raise the atlas track to match the kato track it seems like its lower than the kato thanks


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## prrfan

Easiest is just standard HO cork roadbed, usually runs 3/16” thick.


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## CTValleyRR

I didn't see this before, but I'll weigh in now.

There are some places in this hobby where going for the cheap solution will only lead to problems down the road, and turnouts is one of them. Atlas turnouts definitely are cheaper... in all senses of that term. They are not as robust as the Kato ones, and are prone to getting "sloppy" after a few years as the hinges wear. I would suck it up and buy the Kato turnouts.

If you must merge the two track types, you need to make sure each has a roadbed under it. Any additional shimming necessary to make the railheads level can be done with styrene or strip wood under the ties or roadbed of the lower track.


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## prrfan

The Atlas still has to be raised 3/16” to match the Kato, which already has the roadbed attached. There’s a lot of choices there to do that. 

I agree with using Kato turnouts. Really, the only reasons to do this conversion would be to use components that are not available in HO Unitrack, such as crossovers less than 90 degrees, or to make some kind of piece to fill in an odd section.


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## Gramps

I have to agree with the previous 2 comments, you have invested with Kato to this point so stay with them. You will be happier in the long run.


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## little fat buddy

okay guys i will give these some thoughts an will let ya'll know what i decide i only have a simple oval at the moment of the kato track that was given to me form a friend who only used it as a test track


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## Viperjim1

*Kato and atlas*

I would say use the atlas flex track 3' sections for your long runs as this will eliminate the joints of 3 tracks which is less chance of loss of connection or misalignment. And also cheaper as flex is cheaper than the Kato sections. Jmho!


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## CTValleyRR

Viperjim1 said:


> I would say use the atlas flex track 3' sections for your long runs as this will eliminate the joints of 3 tracks which is less chance of loss of connection or misalignment. And also cheaper as flex is cheaper than the Kato sections. Jmho!


It's also a completely different concept. Flex track is, well, flex track, and requires some patience and dexterity to get right.

The Kato is sectional roadbed track, which often helps keep beginners in their comfort zone.


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## MichaelE

Aren't you locked into 18" and 22" radii with the Kato roadbed track?


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## Gramps

Unitrack comes in 9 different radii from 14 9/16" to 34 1/8".


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## little fat buddy

thanks for all the ideas an suggerions guys im just clueless on where to start with what pieces of kato track to buy kinda confusing since all i currnetly have is a oval using there 24'' radius curves


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## MichaelE

Do you have a layout idea, plan, or drawing yet? You need to have this otherwise you are not going to know what to buy.


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## CTValleyRR

little fat buddy said:


> thanks for all the ideas an suggerions guys im just clueless on where to start with what pieces of kato track to buy kinda confusing since all i currnetly have is a oval using there 24'' radius curves


Kato sells sets of Unitrack that make different shapes. Get a couple of those.

But really, MichaelE is right -- design your trackplan on paper first. Then you will know exactly what you need, and won't waste money on unnecessary pieces.


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## little fat buddy

well i know what i want to build its the layout track side scnery did a youtube video series on 



it is at the 3.04 second mark that shwos the layout plan hope the link works new to trying to post links into post


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## prrfan

That’s a nice layout plan. As a final thought, my advice would be to keep the Kato together in its own section and not mix it with Atlas throughout the layout. 
This will give you just one transition point between the two track systems. 

The reason for this is not only the quality of the components but the fact that the Kato is engineered to go together in specific patterns. 
If you mix in Atlas turnouts or other components which will be a different length, you break the pattern and will make things difficult for yourself. It can be done but in short, it’s not worth it because you would be creating a problem that Kato has already solved for you. 
I will hopefully be encountering this very scenario in the future. I have a small switching layout now which is all Kato except for two bridges. When I get room to build a larger layout I will keep the Kato section as a yard and just have one transition to the main layout which will be Code 83 flex. 
Have fun building and running trains. 
Best, 
Dan


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## CTValleyRR

Does the plan in the video give the curve radii, turnout numbers and materials list?

If not, you'll still need to put a plan together To figure this out.

There is no magic shortcut to putting a layout together. The number one reason why people don't know how to proceed is because they are omitting essential planning steps.


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## little fat buddy

well im not trying to omit anything i just cant use the track planning programs i have tired pretty much all of them they all confuse me an my drawing skills suck as well


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## MichaelE

Well, I thought the track planning software that is available was not very intuitive either.

I was hoping for something with a pen that you could use to draw a layout onto a scale grid and have the software convert the drawing to the closest track and turnout dimensions within the drawing. Print out a bill of material, and head to the store.

No, it works nothing like that and for most you have to wade through a pile of menu selection, directions, radius choices, blah, blah, blah, just to layout a straight section and one turnout.

I could draw it by hand faster than that. And I did.

You could always send your ideas to a commercial firm to take your ideas to a working plan but that costs. Probably a lot.


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## little fat buddy

yeah i know exaclty what you mean on the whole planning programs an yea i may wind up having to go that route evne tho i have a feeling it will cost an arm and a leg.


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## MichaelE

There is always Atlas planning books available that have scale track pieces at the end of the book. You could try drawing a layout using these patterns.

IIRC, the scale is 1-1/2" to the foot. The patters have a variety of 180° radius curve to chose from, turnouts of different sizes, wye's, etc. If you have a compass and a ruler and can read it, you should be able to get something on paper.

The Atlas book is #11, Atlas HO Layouts For Every Space

It also included cross-overs, fractional sectional track, several yard ladders, etc. It's pretty complete and it's how I got my layout on paper. It worked.

Hang in there and don't lose hope.


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## little fat buddy

okay cool i will look into that book na very nice looking layout there


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## MichaelE

It's my first one from scratch. Thanks.


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## Jack Barry

MichaelE said:


> It's my first one from scratch. Thanks.


Well I know this is a really old thread...But... At this time Kato #4 remote turnouts are discontinued and the manual #4's are darn near US$30 vs Atlas Custom line #4's @ US$17. I am using Kato for all my layout but I
I am installing an expanded yard. A difference of $13 per turnout times, say 20 turnouts is US$260!
Also Unitrack is way easier than laying flextrack and in IMHO just as reliable. In the Navy the evaluation of stuff is "Do the good points outweigh the bad points" Both Atlas & Kato have good & bad points.


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## CTValleyRR

I would say that the price differential may be more a reflection of people trying to unload inventory than a true price difference. Atlas Custom line #4's currently have an MSRP of $26.95.

Of course, using the Atlas turnouts is like going out to buy a Mustang and getting a Fiesta because it's cheaper.

The other thing to consider is that the geometry of the two parts is different, so you would need to modify your design to change brands. Which is the beauty of flex track: it's not any more reliable, but it's infinitely more versatile.


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## Jack Barry

Yes the geometry is different, Atlas is a bit longer and has a 22 degree radius while Kato's radius is 19.5 I think? Kato #4 MSRP is US$50. Still comes out to per unit $13 difference. I have ordered 1 Atlas custom #4 and I have 1 pc of Atlas code 80 flex laying around so I'll mess around and check compatability feasability, doability, ( I don't think that is a word?) ETC with inter breeding track


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## CTValleyRR

Again, $13 isn't negligible, but I wouldn't "settle". My point is, there is a reason you're finding those turnouts so cheaply, and believe me, it isn't because they're so great that everyone is using them. Use a Peco, MicroEngineering, or Walthers turnout rather than an Atlas (even a Custom Line). But again, the geometry is different on all of them, so be prepared to compensate. You will also have to install cork or foam roadbed under the non-Kato track, perhaps with a shim to get the height right. In general, though, track types can be mixed, with a little care and maybe some surgery.

Feasability means "able to be done", so there is no need for a word "doability".


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## Jack Barry

You know what, I am thinking more and more about "biting the bullet" and using Kato. I have had many many Kato turnouts in n and HO with zero problems. I started out using Atlas ( before I switched to Kato) and there were issues frequently. Manufactures are difficult to figure, Atlas makes fine locos & rolling stock and crappy turnouts?


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## Gramps

I think that's the way to go. They say time is money and the time you spend adapting the different brands could offset the price difference. Just as an FYI the radius on a #4 Kato turnout is 19-1/4"


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## Jack Barry

Thanks Gramps. I have made up my mind and cancelled the Atlas orderIi had. Sticking with Kato I am


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