# Lionel 259E and etc...



## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

Hello

I am new member and deaf man. My first time new thread here. 

I have complete set train of 259E from grandpa and gave me by my father. 

I examine 259E loco and found two gear wheel and non gear wheel bad show picture below. Also some rods missing plus other remain rod have dirty and few bend. Here this forum helped me to find The Train Tender and send picture to Jeff and he find wheels to matched. I ordered 4 wheels set and complete rods set. 

I see cab have bend need to straight out will work on it later. 

I thank tjcuriser for information year of my loco guessing around 1934 to 1936, my guess was 1939 but realize that too early than that ! I will still to learn more about 259E and cars. 
In future I try to restoration on loco 259E take my time to processing.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Sneaker,

Great to have you onboard. I'll echo what I always say to myself whenever I get an old, rusted relic in my hands: "There's plenty of life left in that old loco!"

You're in great hands with Jeff Kane (Train Tender) on your side. He's the best. Keep us posted on progress / questions when your new wheels arrive.

Another dating feature ... you have a weight on the "shelf" in your cab (like mine). Earlier 259's did not have this weight in the cab.

Do you have the small screw that holds the boiler front to the shell? That (and many other Lionel-specific screws) are 4-36 thread ... a very uncommon type. Jeff has plenty of them, if you need them, but this is not something you'll find in your local hardware store.

Keep us posted, and welcome to the "get that old girl running" club!

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I finally bought a bunch of 4-36 screws in several lengths from Jeff at TT, got tired of trying to scrounge them from old stuff in my junkbox!


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

I will glad to post more further when update. 


Yes I will need small screw for broiler front where it missing. Interesting that screw belong to Lionel specific where hardware store not have. Maybe hobby store might have ? If not then I might have to order via Jeff. Thank for tip. 

I see mine 259E loco have weight in cab shelf also have other weight under of front broiler. Early of 259E not have weight what it affect 259E running to be ? Is it less pull more cars due no weight on loco ? 

Is correct that Lionel put two weight on front and rear of loco 259E have to design for armature to more torque and handle better for able to pull more cars ? I just wonder.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Sneaker,

If you need just the one (boiler front) 4-36 screw, then PM (private message) me, and I'd be happy to send you one. If you need several, Jeff is a great source. You can try a local hobby shop ... many might not stock 4-36 ... it's an outdated thread type.

Like any model loco, weight is added to induce more downward pressure on the loco, and minimize wheel slipage under any pulling load. More weight = less slippage.

Best regards,

TJ


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

Tj

I got new wheels and rods set today. I added four more things for 259E include screw 4-36 on next order and thank for offer.  



Here pictures of compare old 4 wheels on left and right are 4 new wheels came from train tender. Notice left two old wheels hold axle rods are good. Four old wheels will be keep in storage for future to use. Two old bad wheels might be use on layout scenery as outside of "train repair shop" structure ? 

What to use thing to clean on 259E engine ? Use goo gone ? I plan to remove two plate of brush plate and gear plate off on both side engine , remove armature also might remove e unit before prepare to clean in future. Any suggest ? Engine look have dust inside and around coil need to clean.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I do my initial cleaning of PW stuff with Dawn liquid detergent and hot water. I use a soft brush or a sponge and wash the shells. 

As far as mechanical parts, I always start with Isopropyl Alcohol and clean off all the gunk first. Compressed air is handy for dust.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Sneaker,

The new wheels look great ... very crisp casting.

I've replaced several wheelsets, but always hold on to my old wheels. Often, 1 or 2 of a 4-wheel set still have service life, and with enough swap-outs, I eventually have enough leftovers to make a "new set". I have even resorted to "castrating" wheels to turn them into different types, i.e.: Dremel-cut away the gear from the back of a wheel to turn it into a non-geared wheel; cut the drive rod stud away to turn a rear wheel into a front wheel; etc.

On tinplate trains, if you do use soapy water to clean the shell parts (per John's suggestion, above), be very, very careful about drying things out thoroughly afterwards. Any latent moisture will be a nasty source of future rust.

For that reason, I stick mostly to GooGone for my cleaning agent. It doesn't inhibit rust, cuts through grime nicely, and I have absolutely no issue with dousing electrical components (armatures, e-units, etc.) with the stuff.

Hey, keep us posted on your wheel swap. Check your bearings while the axles are out, to make sure they're not worn in any bad way.

Regards,

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Clearly, you should dry things well after washing, I agree.  I just fine that dish washing soap is very mild and I've yet to come across a shell that it harms in any way. I've seen more than one caution on GooGone affecting paint, which leads to caution on my part.


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

Tj and John

Thank for tip about method to clean engine. Yes true should be dry out as soon as can after using any water with soap no problem 
What I think to use wd-40 with shop towel paper to rub off on shell ? Will wd-40 appear have moisture somewhere on engine ? I read WD-40 have displaces moisture, penetrates, and protects. WD-40 can clean armature ? 


Tj

That is good tip about use dermel to remove back of wheel !


John

I ask what is PW stuff ?


sneaker3d


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I'll defer any comments on WD40 to other guys. I haven't used it to clean any of my trains.

PW = Postwar, as in Postwar era Lionel.

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The 50's Lionel manuals suggest Vaseline on the boiler. I have shied away from WD 40. It is a good penetrating oil but something heavier is preferred for general use.It should be ok for a cleaner. The PW is referring to Post war Lionel. For tinplate I clean with a rubbing compound and coat it with an acrylic floor wax. I havent done that to any engines but mostly inexpensive rolling stock.It is hard to do without leaving streaks and some people use the air brushes for that.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I would never use WD-40 to protect anything! It will also attack some paints. I'm an antique gun collector, and I've bought several guns "protected" with WD-40, it had turned into a hard glue after a couple of years! I had to soak one of them in solvent for days to get it apart to clean that crap out!

I've never damaged anything with the soap and water solution. Note that I don't soak them for any length of time, that might loosen decals and the like.


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

I got it PW is postwar but can be prewar ? 


I got Krud Kutter cleaner/degreaser and stain remover what man at home depot suggest for clean shell body and have not tried yet and wonder any one tried this ?

Thanks for comment about WD-40.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I guess PW could be prewar, but generally, I think postwar is what most people use it for.

I've never fiddled with Krud. As with anything, check it carefully on an inconspicous area for any bad reactions with painted surfaces.

Cheers,

TJ


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## TOM32 (Aug 3, 2010)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I would never use WD-40 to protect anything! It will also attack some paints. I'm an antique gun collector, and I've bought several guns "protected" with WD-40, it had turned into a hard glue after a couple of years! I had to soak one of them in solvent for days to get it apart to clean that crap out!
> 
> I've never damaged anything with the soap and water solution. Note that I don't soak them for any length of time, that might loosen decals and the like.


WD-40 is not a good protector as you said, however, wiping down parts to get any fingerprints off is a good, fast use for it.

I have cleaned some old tin plate train cars with very light pressure using one of those Mr Clean ''erasers", then a wipe with a little WD using an old T-shirt.

I also wipe down my old Winchesters with WD after a session at the range. They are over 100 years old and still look good.


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

Hi Tom32

Thanks for comment about WD-40 so I think Wd-40 good but not good as protector. WD-40 is good as cleaner and not leave it on thing longer.


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

Here I am back .

I posted below just show I apart body. It look alike already after crash force body apart ! :laugh:










See bottom of boiler weight I will plan remove rivet out. In future so should I keep rivet for return to weigh ? I think about use new bolt and nut instead of rivet ?

I worked on rear cab to straight out. 
Before










After


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The cab position is the key to making the whole engine look right. Keep at it. There are many dents.

Try to get it like this.


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

Hello T-Man

I read some of your 259E revival and 259E Revisited , good job restoration 259E! 


I learned about slot on cab where mine cab not have, based on year by 259E revival.

I am just new and try my best to restoration my 259E from my grandfather.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Sneaker,

You remind me of me! Nice photo of the parts all laid out nice and neat.

If you want to remove the weight from the steamchest (for any repaint work), you can reinstall it with a screw/nut. See my 259 thread for an example.

Are you missing one handrail cleat? I can sent you one extra if you need it. Jeff Kane also stocks them.

I use a small peen hammer, hitting the metal up against a 1.5" diameter oak dowel to work the cab roof. Thumb pressure works wonders, too, to softly push things back into alignment.

Hey, during the reassembly, make sure to install the two sandpipes from the front dome down into the frame holes at the same time you're installing the boiler on the frame. Otherwise, you'll be "boxed out" and not be able to get those in easily.

I see you drilled out the pivoting rivet for each (left/right) valve gear attachment to the frame. I did the same, and reinstalled them with small, round-head, hex screws. See my 259 thread for example...

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=3748

Regards,

TJ


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

tjcruiser said:


> Sneaker,
> 
> You remind me of me! Nice photo of the parts all laid out nice and neat
> 
> TJ


No TJ, I will testify that you are the neatest part layer here.
You do it will surgical precision.:thumbsup:

The TIN MAN's (TJ) are perfectly straight and all are exactly the same spacing in between the parts. Exactly!

Sneaker your a close second to TJ, but a few of your parts in the picture are just a little crooked. :laugh:

(look at TJ rebuild threads and you will agree.)

Your the best laying them out, TJ.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Artistry or OCD? Hmmm ...


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

sneaker3d said:


> Hello T-Man
> 
> I read some of your 259E revival and 259E Revisited , good job restoration 259E!
> 
> ...


Keep at it. You took it all apart so take advantage of it. I did solder the cab halves to keep it's shape.

You have plenty of help here.


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

Hello big ed 

I agree with you all way :thumbsup: Mine 259E still crooked to anyone. 

I just glad have tj and t-man onboard about 259E what is great benefit from them to good advisor ! 

T-man

When t-man suggest about cab section to together by using solder what I not think about that is good tip ! I have super rosin core 60 tin and 40 lead will work on cab metal ? 

TJ,

Thank for comment on photo. I have missing side rod already got it from Jeff Kane also got new one cleat from him too.

I use dremel stone cone to light sand on end small rivet on frame by valve gear then use small screwdriver flat on rivet head to get out.

I did see your picture show round head hex bolt so I wonder that bolt with nut to hold valve gear ?

Cheer :thumbsup:


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Normally the T man (aka epoxy man) recommends epoxy for most repairs.:thumbsup:

I don't know about the solder wait till they log back on.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Sneaker,

You can get rivets to reattach the valve gear to the frame. I had a set of rivets (from Jeff) in my hand, experimented with them a bit, but then gave up in frustration. I did learn one thing from the process: I HATE rivets. Or maybe they hate me. Anyway, I chickened out, and went the screw/nut route. My description of what I did is here ... I had to enlarge the hole (left/right) in the frame just a tiny bit for the screw ...

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showpost.php?p=30266&postcount=43

Regards,

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

A flat piece of steel is ideal for removing dents. If you can find a curve piece that would help around the top of the cab.


The solder will work just fine, make sure the joint is clean. use a copper wire on the boiler side to help. The real trick is clamping it togther so it will not move. I will show you how later.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

My original idea did not work. I used elastic bands to align everything up. Here I start with a c clamp, as you can see , one side still needs to be lifted up. I had to dissasemble a shell to show you.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

T-Man said:


> A flat piece of steel is ideal for removing dents. If you can find a curve piece that would help around the top of the cab.
> 
> 
> The solder will work just fine, make sure the joint is clean. use a copper wire on the boiler side to help. The real trick is clamping it togther so it will not move. I will show you how later.


The steel backing pieces that auto body folks use to pound out dents aren't that expensive, maybe a set of those would be useful.


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

Hi
I am back from arrange to do.

TJ,

Thank for bolt and nut I read your link of 259E "Learn lesson". I laugh about you hate rivet !!! I glad that I am not only person discomfort about rivet too ! :laugh:
I went to local ace hardware got correct bolts and nuts like yours . I got tap 3mm 0.50 to bore on my frame both side and test 3 mm bolt fit good.


















Oh boy untab fell out frame !  But I notice that tab already untab before also other side tab remain on frame possible become weak or fall when press tab back after paint project done. 










Any suggest what can I make up this to hold together WITHOUT TAB ? hwell:
What I think is use bolt on front of sandpipe hole on top frame for to hold chest and frame together??? (show picture bolt with plier to position frame)










T-Man,

Yes I see c clamp help two section to align .  I got strong clip from ace hardware with plastic tip. I test put clip on two section. So I wonder clip help ? But one thing maybe plastic might melt when two sections become heated by use solder ? Show pictures.


















gunrunnerjohn,

Good tip about body shop ! :thumbsup:


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Sneaker,

Clever idea to tap the frame for the valve gear screw. I drilled mine clean, with a locknut on the back side. I had to file down the depth of the locknut, though, so that it didn't interfere with the bottom of the sandpipe that passes through a nearby hole in the frame. I see the end of your screw is close ... make sure you have room for the sandpipe end. Also, you might want to put a drop of LockTite on the back of that screw so that it doesn't unwind itself during running.

That's a steamchest tab. There are 3 other tabs that hold it in place ... one on the other side, and two pointing up into the frame. Chances are, you'll be OK with the remaining 3 tabs. However, if you want to sleep soundly ...

You might find a piece of stiff sheet metal, about 3/16" x 3/8". When you're ready to reassemble the steam chest, use the metal as a crimp, folding it over on itself 180 degrees to crimp the steamchest to the frame. If you position it just right, you won't be able to see if from the top/boiler side. And a dab of JB Weld always works wonders!

For future reference, I now (via lessons learned) often heat my tabs during loco disassembly ... I use a soldering iron or a small torch. I don't worry about damaging the paint, because I usually have a strip/repaint planned. The heat helps to soften the metal and avoid breakage. After the repaint of the disassemble pieces, I reinstall and bend the tabs very gently (without heat), and try to use hardwood dowels (rather than metal tools) if possible to avoid marring the new paint.

The curve on your cab roof looks great ... much improved!

Oh ... one other thing ... in the "I hate rivets" department ...

If you plan to repaint, I suggest that you do NOT remove the "crosshead guides" that are rivetted to the steamchest. I left mine in place, simply taping them off during paintwork. I'm glad I did.

Cheers,

TJ


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

I just took one cab to see how it going for paint remove. I just can not wait to see before and after. 
Put cab on Aluminum Foil tray on outside patio and use klean-strip spray over cab. 










After time is up ( 15 min) then use shop towel paper to wipe out paint out and reapply spray for few paint remain on cab.
After second then go to wash water to clean out cab. 
Cab body clean like new except top roof have many rust and scratch. :thumbsdown:



















After use dremel with wire brush to rid of rust.










Next I try work on two section to together by use solder what T-Man shown previous or work on top roof top smooth. I will post further when I work on later.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You'll be a tin man yet, looking good so far.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Yup ... looking good!

FYI, Dremel offers two disc wire brushes ... a mild steel one with a steel-colored shaft, and a stainless steel one with a copper-colored shaft. On this tinplate stuff, I use the stainless brushes. They work wonders to remove all of the surface oxidation and "rust veins" from the sheet steel. You'll need several brushes, though ... after a while, they spit out their needles. Wear safety goggles, and work in some place where you don't mind needles spit everywhere ... outside, if possible. The stainless brushes cost about $3.50 each (though other non-dremel sources are available), but I think the end product is worth the investment. I'm always amazed how well these brushes do at turning a rusty shell into a shiny jewel.

Have you considered EasyOff for stripping?

Keep up the nice work!

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I see you are keeping busy. 

The cab looks straight and true.:thumbsup:

Normally I use the dremel for angles. Scotchbrite and rubbing compound work fine on flat surfaces.

Since you went with screws maybe you can find a more decorative hex head on the side. Just a thought. I always use the smallest screws available and avoid any drilling. Just as long it works for you. 

DOn't forget to add the rods to the steamchest before you attach it to the frame. Naturally after you paint it. By getting rid of the tabs you also have a less chance of scratching the paint when you assemble it.

Do you have a paint scheme in mind?

Keep the plastic away when you solder. That is the side you want, but you just clamped over the area. Give it a chance to cool down after.


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## Wabashbud (Jun 25, 2010)

Holy cow another thread that needs bookmarking. If I only new how to do it.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I wonder what happened to sneaker?


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

Hello

I am back to forum here for long time since 2012. I was just stopped remodel 259E. I go back to work on 259E. 

Here picture 259E body paint off after use use klean-strip spray then wash hot water to clean out. Body have some rust remain will clean out by use dremel.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Hey sneaker,great job so far! I wish I saw this a year ago when I was doing mine. Stick around,I'm sure I'll need help soon.


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

Hey sjm9911

Welcome onboard!

I will need help too if I have question :smilie_daumenpos:
I checked on your post of cola engine look cool.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Thanks, heres my 259, still not finished, ill get to it eventually! http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=22872 , and I'm going to use your and tjs screw tapping idea, I hate rivets too! I think thats why I never finished it.


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

Yes I notices somebody dislike rivets that much.


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

I am just finished clean rust on all body with dremel.
Body put together not retab yet and check, adjust if need then will dis assembly before to apply paint.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Welcome back, Sneaker! You're on the right track with the 259 ... a Dremel brush-down will get that metal all shiny, and remove any trace of rust veins. Just remember to prime the pieces as quickly thereafter.

Keep us posted on your progress!

TJ


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

Hey tjcuriser

Glad see you back! Been long while....
Now body been painted. I use rust-oleum universal advance formula metallic have paint & primer in one color is carbon mist. Will it work good ? I done whole body and will do repaint after dry. I wonder do I need use sandpaper grit like 1500 or 2000 to smooth paint before recoat ?

Once I painted it look good ummm,,
Let me know what your adviser.

:thumbsup:


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Hello.........what flavor are you going to paint it?


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

Hello big ed 

Flavor is carbon mist.

Here painted.
















I noticed paint look slight tough after spray twice. But nice color though.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I love that color! The finish looks great! :thumbsup:

That's going to look sharp when it's all back together.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

That is a nice color with the speckles showing through, nicely done. :smilie_daumenpos:
Carbon mist what brand is that?


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Looks great, like a hammared finish. Sort of like the log loader, very pretty!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Hi Sneaker,

That "carbon mist" color looks beautiful! In fact, it's very similar to that of my "Spike the Junkyard Dog" 259E. Maybe they're long lost cousins?!?

You had asked about sanding between paint coats ...

I give my restorations a very light rub-down with a fine-grade Scotch Brite pad between paint coats (after the first coat of paint has thoroughly dried). Not too hard, though ... just enough to "knock off" any micro dust bumps on the first coat, and add a very light etching to the first layer of paint for adhesion of the 2nd coat.

Looking great on your end. Keep us posted!

TJ


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

Hello

Thanks guys for comment about body paint, I use rust-oleum universal advance formula metallic have paint & primer in one color is carbon mist. 
Yes I see body put together look neat. I have little struggle with retab and accident starch finished paint while retab inside cab wall hwell:, so I respray inside have bubble lot, I clean up then I use paint brush with different color satin green on wall only. I just glad I am done through retab except rear cab bottom not retab and I leave it. Body been recoat 3 to 5 time on steam body to look better.


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

I have been learn lesson about put axle in new wheel rear gear long with hammer cause hole to crack and chip off  . So I read here forum about axle in wheel should to use vise to press. I ordered new wheel will on way to my home. I found my two clamps that I can use clamp to press . 
I wonder will clamp helpful ? Or use vise ??


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Generally, a press is the right tool for putting wheels on, hammering them is rarely successful.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Sneaker,

LOOKS FABULOUS!!! Great work, all around.

I see you've used the same hex-head screw to replace the original rivet holding the valve gear linkage to the frame that I did on my 259. I learned to hate rivets with that project, and was glad to stumble on the hex screw idea. Looks nice on your end, too.

As for wheels, I've never used a full press (too cheap on my end to buy one!). Instead, I've used a big bench vise with rubber jaws and very gentle turns of the vice handle; or ... sometimes I'll lay the motor on its side with wood blocking underneath one wheel, and then place some wood blocking on top of the wheel to be attached, and then gently tap tap tap the upper wood blocking with a rubber mallet. Some drive wheels have studs that stick out for drive linkages. For those, I'll drill a hole in the back sides of the wood blocks so that that face of the wood lies flat against the primary wheel surface.

Keep the pics coming ... this is a wonderful rehab!!!

TJ

Ohh ... some JB Weld would do a decent job of gluing that broken wheel hub piece back into place. You can be liberal with the JB around the break ... no one will ever see the build up globs of excess JB there.


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## clovis (Jan 5, 2014)

I am not generally into repaints...but that shell is stunning!!!!

Nice job!!! It looks awesome!!!!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Sneaker,

Be mindful of the angle of the cowcatcher on your frame. It looks a bit pushed in to me. Not trying to be critical, but just tossing out a look-see to make sure you have enough clearance for the pilot wheels to pivot back and forth. Perhaps a gently hand-bend might help?

TJ


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

Thank again for comment about paint , yes I see it look neat and I love that color carbon mist. 

TJ

When you asked me about cowcatcher make me figure out , I put pivot wheel on and I notice wheel about touch to cowcatcher, You are right about angle look closer to wheel. I do bend forward bit increase to clearance from wheel about gap 1/8 inch . I glad that you help me to notice it. Thank TJ


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Glad to have help a bit, Sneaker!

TJ


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## rrbill (Mar 11, 2012)

Sneaker, your choice of paint for your locomotive was an inspired one. It really does give it a unique look, and when I squint my eyes, it does have a kinda sorta railroady look to it. Can't wait to see your completed project; you will have worked a minor miracle on this locomotive.


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

Hello rrbill

Thank for comment about 259E, I can not wait for 259E to complete plus four cars still in processing.


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

*caboose*

I wonder any you guys know where I can find new or reproduce 2657 tag, mine prewar caboose tag look ruin. Also I ordered pick up roller for to modify on prewar caboose for light.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Did you try Jeff at the Train Tender?

If he doesn't have them, could you remake a new one? Is the original paper or metal? If metal (brass?), strip to shiny, re-tag with dry-transfer letters, and then clearcoat. If paper, dabble in Word to print your own on good-quality card stock???

TJ


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## FM Trainmaster (Nov 13, 2013)

PW = "Pre-War", before WW2.

edit: nevermind... was responding to a MUCH earlier question, and failed to notice pages of replies following.


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

TJ

Good tip , What I think about use white plastic with black letters good for light caboose..

Thanks


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

*tender*

I am done work on tender. When I tested whistle running happened commutator fell out  armature so I use Gorilla super glue to put commutator back on, then retested run good.


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

*Wheel , done on 259E and tender*

I got other new wheel and use clamp to press axle in wheel correct.
I am done with 259E and tender look good together on new track.


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

*Log car*

I just finish work on log car and other two more cars to go.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Looking good, glad you got the time to finally start finishing this project! You do great work sneaker!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Sneaker, your 259E & tender look superb!!! I think my "Spike" is smiling that he has a new Junkyard playmate! Long lost brothers!


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

TJ

Yes , I like your's to united in junkyard :smilie_daumenpos:


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## rrbill (Mar 11, 2012)

Sneaker, it took real patience and painstaking effort on your part to transform this bent, rusty model into the shiny beauty we see now. I can't wait to see your next project.


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

*Sunoco car*

I am done all cars. Before and after restoration.


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

*Caboose with light*

I ordered new pick up roller for passenger but I modify to caboose with gorilla super glue work good. I tested caboose on track power up light look good also can see number 2657
.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Wow, those look fantastic! Great job!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Nice job, the lighted numbers on the caboose are a nice touch, didn't know they did that back then.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Just in time for mass.


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

*Video*

Check here I made video:

http://vimeo.com/115298464


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Cool, ill watch the video. I was saying before just in time for Christmas. My 3 year old made me cut it short! They look awesome!
nice video. What's the light on the far side of the track?


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

Thanks

Green light on far side is lionel lighted lock-on model # 6-14112.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Cool, never actually seen one on a layout.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Sneaker,

SUPERB! I've done a bit of this type of work myself, and you, sir, are really tackling some excellent restoration work!

I like the luminescent caboose number tag!

Are you going to restore the shell on the transformer, by chance???

Thanks for sharing,

TJ


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## sneaker3d (Jan 12, 2012)

Hello tjcurise

I have not plan on transformer shell yet. Many thanks to members for comment and thank this forum help me doing project to get better.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Sneaker , thank you! We all learn from each other! And its fun to see stuff saved from the junk pile too.


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