# HO layout suggestions



## thx712517 (Dec 31, 2010)

Looking for some ideas on a future layout track plan. The hypothetical train room will be our current home office, and I get two walls of it. One wall is 6', the other 11' 6". The shelf can be 18"-24" wide. 

Scale: HO
Era: 1950s, American northeast. 
Theme: Transitional-era short line down on its luck. Think Putnam Division, or O&W. 
Motive power: 2-8-0 (Broadway Limited's new Connie looks nice), hood unit (Alco HH600). 
Track: Not set yet, would be most comfortable with Kato Unitrack but willing to learn other stuff. 
Control: Would most likely start as DC, but interested in making the leap to DCC.
Focus: Operations. Train comes on scene, switches a few industries, reassembles the train, and leaves. 
Scenes to incorporate: Single track bridge over a creek in order to get onto the layout, a brewery, a small town. 
Would like: multiple places to switch, a runaround "on-scene" and an area on the shelf where I can store cars for another train. It'd be fantastic if I could have a runaround in the storage yard so I don't have to 0-5-0 the locomotive back to the head of the train when pulling onto the layout, but I don't know if that can be done in the space. 

Thoughts, suggestions, comments, ideas?


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

You seem to have plenty of space for what you want to do. Since you'll be running point to point, you should have ample space for some pretty generous curves (24" or larger).

Why don't you start by plunking down your yard at one end (keep it small -- 3-4 tracks) and incorporate your runaround track (maybe you can afford to sneak in a little wider area)? Then you can add the other scenic elements as you work your way back around.

You could use a cassette arrangement to bring a train onto your layout at one end (Most likely the left side, because I imagine you have a wall at the other).

Also, you've been doing model railroads for a while. I would suggest that you look into using commercial turnouts and flextrack to build this layout.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I fully agree with CTValley, give strong consideration to using Flex track
with foam or cork roadbed. It gives you much better ability to
make the curves that you want, not what some maker sells. It is also
compatible with the turnouts and other track parts from various
makers.

24 inches is not going to give you the width you need for any loop.
Keep in mind most 4 axle HO diesel locos needs around 18" radius and that also
limits use of long cars. Perhaps you could widen both ends to
make the wider radius possible.

Also, I would also urge you to look into DCC right from the start. It
will offer you so much more wiring and operating ease and fun especially with
a circling train while you build another train with your switcher.
A single track main with passing sidings even lets you run two
trains at the same time IN OPPOSITE DIRECTIONS.

Don


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

How about expanding on something like this. You would of course have room for more industries, and a point to point would look better I think.









As Don says you can do so more more with DCC and the cost is now really very modest. It will just so much more to your railroading.


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## Chet (Aug 15, 2014)

CTValleyRR has pretty well hit the nail on the head. I have a lot larger area to work with, but I really enjoy switching. My layout was built as a point to point railroad set in 1957. I have a yard and engine facility at each end plus have three hidden staging tracks that will also allow continuous running. I very seldom use the continuous run option as I use these hidden staging tracks to store inbound and outbound trains from the yards. I'll send a local freight out from one of the yards, send it down along the main line servicing 20 some industries along the right of way and then return to one of the yards. Any outbound cars are then made into an outbound train and run onto one of the hidden staging tracks. 
I also agree with Don and would suggest flex track and commercial turnouts. With the space you have available, you have a lot of options to build a great switching layout.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

We're ganging up on you...Switching is the real
fun of railroading. I have a single track DCC mainline
for continuous running and often I'll set a train going
on it to act as a hassle for my switcher that is the
real reason for the operating session. As in real
railroading the switcher often has to use parts of
the main to complete iit's assignments. I use car cards
with directions for building the train or spotting cars
at industries. A whole afternoon can enjoyably go by
shuttling between my two yards and several industrial
spurs.

Don


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## thx712517 (Dec 31, 2010)

I'm more than happy to go with a switching-heavy point to point. Right now I've got a three spur layout on a hollow core door. It's a relaxed Inglenook Siding. I'm thinking of making some car cards so I can shuffle them up and switch cars for a while.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

thx712517 said:


> I'm more than happy to go with a switching-heavy point to point. Right now I've got a three spur layout on a hollow core door. It's a relaxed Inglenook Siding. I'm thinking of making some car cards so I can shuffle them up and switch cars for a while.


I have permanent car cards. For some switching operations I simply
shuffle the cards and 'deal' out a train. But I've also found it interesting
to select cars based on a business 'need' or 'load' to be spotted, write on
post it notes the business to get a car, or a car to be picked up at a
business. These notes are then attached to the pertinent car card and
switching operations get under way. 

Don


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## thx712517 (Dec 31, 2010)

Do you use any particular software to create those cards? Also, if I'm going to make the leap into flex track, should I be looking at Walthers code 83, or Atlas, or...? I'm focused more on reliability and ease of operation versus ultra-realistic scale appearance, but my locomotives and freight cars are equipped with RP25 wheels.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I bought the Car Card system from Micro Mark. However,
you could use any Word Processor to make your own.
The cards are simple.
About an inch & a half wide, 5 inches long.

If your printer can handle card stock use that.

The are printed as follows:

KIND ______AAR____ (fill in Tank, Box, Gondola, Hopper, ETC. AAR is railroad ID

R.R./NO.___________ (fill in CSX 23934) 

DESC______________ (fill in Maroon/Orange or any special markings)

==================

EMPTY CAR
Return to:

______________________

______________________



(I attach pickup up and drop
instruction by post it note here.
When operations have been
completed, the post its are
tossed out).


+++++++

I have used Atlas code 100 N/S for
years. It is fully compatible with
other make turnouts and other
track accessories. It is easy to work
with and there are no maintenance
problems. Just keep the railheads
clean. Do not know about code 83
but qualities should be same as code 100.

Don


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Can't understand why anyone would buy the Micromark software when there are so many free alternatives out there. You can even use Word to produce something. No need for a "from" just a "Return to:".


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Micro Mark has a complete system that appealed to me. However,
once I had it, I found it more trouble than what I have described
in a previous post. Using the preset switching operations is a lot
more enjoyable than moving cars just on a whim. Yesterday, it
took me all afternoon to complete assignments involving about
25 cars at various times. A couple of delays due to incompetent
switchman, and losing a couple of Kadee coupler springs...aaargh!

That scheduled a new project to put a dab of glue on every
Kadee coupler spring so they don't flee the coop when you bang
'em together too hard.

Don


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## thx712517 (Dec 31, 2010)

What type of flex track should I look for? I see Walthers, and Atlas apparently has track that you can snap into roadbed if you don't want to use cork. I think I want to try code 83 as a balance between reliable operation and looks. And what's a good recommendation for going with DCC?


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## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*Suggestions for thx712517*

I would suggest maybe to use atlas flex track, It's readily available. For an interesting layout, possibly vary the rail heights. Heavy use mainlines could be code 100. Yards and
less used sidings, could be smaller in height, maybe around code 55. I'm not sure Atlas makes various codes in rail height though. You'll be able to mix it up abit, you can do what pleases you and is within,your budget.Cork worked really good for me. All Nickel Silver (NS) rails work with DCC. Try to add drop wires to the bottom of the rails. That way you'll
be able to use14AWG wire from the start. Good luck with your new adventure. Regards,
tr1


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

You should find code 83 flex track available at most larger hobby shops
and certainly on line. Be sure to check on the availability of code 83
turnouts or crossings that you may want to use at the same time.

If code 83 accessories that you want are not readily available,
you may wish to reconsider
code 100. It is the most commonly used track and all turnouts and
crossing configurations are available for it.

Don


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

DonR said:


> If code 83 accessories that you want are not readily available,
> you may wish to reconsider
> 
> Don


Accessories Don?


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Cycleops said:


> Accessories Don?


I think he's referring to things like Y's and crossings. I tried to adapt an HO layout to N scale for someone a couple of months back, and got very frustrated that so many of the obvious requirements either weren't made or weren't in stock (special order). I think the HO manufacturers are better, but there have been supply chain disruptions lately.

For the OP's reference, I like MicroEngineering flex track because it stays put where you bend it, and I like the Walthers Shinohara turnout because they come in so many shapes and sizes (although admittedly, they're on the high end of the scale price-wise). I'd steer clear of Walthers flextrack, though. While it looks great and comes in meter-long sections (giving you an extra 3" of length) it's also almost twice as expensive as some other options.


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## Chet (Aug 15, 2014)

I am a big fan of the Shinohara HO flex track and turnouts. I started my layout over 25 years ago hand laying code 70 track and turnouts and when my Kadee spike gun died for the 6th and last time I started using Shinohara because they were the only manufacturer at the time offering flex track and turnouts in code 70. 

I have had excellent luck with all of their products and like the fact that they do offer many different turnouts. More recently ME has come onto the market and I really liked the look of it. I really like the looks of the pre blackened flex track but didn't like working with it at all. It was extremely hard to get smooth curves. My curves are 32 inch radius or larger and to get a smooth curve is a pain. Shinohara track will let one rail slide easily through the ties whereas ME is very rigid not allowing the rail to slide easily. I ended up using the ME track in straight sections only in a yard. I was a bit disappointed. 

Even with the slightly more cost of the Shinohara (Walthers) track and turnouts, I am extremely satisfied with the results.


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## thx712517 (Dec 31, 2010)

While I will certainly consider using flex track going forward, I do like to use sectional track when fooling around in AnyRail. Obviously this attempt is pretty basic, but I threw it up to get some thoughts and suggestions on what to improve.

The idea would be for a locomotive (Consolidation, Mikado, or GP9) to put together a five car train (50' box cars, 56' grain hoppers, 17,000 gallon tankers, etc) from the three storage tracks on the short leg, roll onto the scene, then utilize the runaround to switch cars into facing and trailing sidings. The big industry would be a brewery (one track for dry goods, one for grain, one for tankers), but I'd also like to include a team track and possibly a boat shop as other destinations. 

What would you change to improve operations? I'm defining operations as bringing a train onto the scene, switching sidings and spotting cars, collecting a load of empties and leaving the scene. Anything that can improve switching enjoyment would be great.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

If you like switching operations you can't have too many spurs. I'd add one
anywhere you can squeeze in a turnout. You might consider having
more than one business using car loadings on a single spur track. That in itself
creates the need for additional switching moves when the far industry wants
a car picked up and there is one sitting at the nearby industry loading dock.
Three of my spurs have 2 industries each. With this kind of layout a couple
hours can go by just switching 5 or 10 cars.

I don't know the length of the passing siding tails but be sure they're long
enuf for your loco and one or two cars.

Don


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

One thing you might want to add for interest, as Don alluded to, was industries that use common track. On that lower track that you have labeled "Industries", replace the curve with a turnout, extend the existing track to the right, and add one to the left (you might want to add some more separation, too, with another short straight separating the turnout from the rest of the track). 

This addition could set up a situation where you have to pull cars from one industry to spot cars for another.


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## thx712517 (Dec 31, 2010)

I'll try tweaking the plan with your suggestion next, but here's a less cluttered idea with the brewery, a boat yard, and a team track as the three major switching locations.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

One other thing you might want to consider. You have no way to turn trains short of the HOG (hand of God) method. You could fit a small (90') turntable in several locations on that layout.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Looking good thx712517. You can add a couple of extra industries to the back as low relief flats.


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## SBRacing (Mar 11, 2015)

I am partial to atlas track. It is what I've used my whole life. I use code 100 but would love to switch over to code 83.

If you got room I think it be cool to add a turntable over by the storage track. (IMO). 

I am more of a Single or double loop person with spurs and yards. I understand u may not be able to do that so a point to point or short line would suit you best. And yes go DCC with a shorter line like that. It would be way to complicated to run DC with that.

Best wished on your new layout, Scott


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