# Tenshodo Brass Locomotives any good?



## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

I came across two Tenshodo locomotives, on a SD-24 the other a GP40 all decorated for the PRR. I paid $30 for the GP and $40 for the SD.

I was just wondering if they are any good. They are noisy like an old Athearn.

Thanks!


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## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

rrgrassi said:


> I came across two Tenshodo locomotives, on a SD-24 the other a GP40 all decorated for the PRR. I paid $30 for the GP and $40 for the SD.
> 
> I was just wondering if they are any good. They are noisy like an old Athearn.
> 
> Thanks!


You did very well...their value will be based on whether it is factory paint or custom and whether it is accurate for the PRR roster. Tenshodo is an old company from the 50s, 60s and 70s. They will growl only because the mechanisms were not the best that could be offered, but few did back then. Only since the late 70s did brass makers start improving the drives, driven by customer demand and the desire to run them vs. making shelf queens.


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

Thanks for the info Shay!

The GP 40 is really a GP35. The PRR did have GP 35's. I did not seea SD24 on the roster lists. They are factory painted though.


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## THE TYCO MAN (Aug 23, 2011)

I myself just bought a Tenshodo, the 0-6-0T Baldwin.


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

NICE!! I do also have an AHM ATSF 4-6-2 Pacific. It is not painted. The only issue with it is that the couplercut off lever has one end that is snapped off. I get to repair that. So that make 3 pieces of brass so far...


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## Prospect193 (Nov 30, 2011)

I reckon that was a great buy!!! Well done!!


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

Yeah!! Thanks!!!

I also just bought an unassembled PRR N5C caboose in brass and wood. I have never assembled a craftsman kit. It is made by "Quality Craft Models" I get to see just how bad my soldering skills are...But that is what light sanding and painting are for...


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## mtoney (Oct 6, 2012)

I can highly recommend older Tenshodo models. Thier drive train whine is from the fiber straight cut gears in the gear tower. I have a late 50's NYC GP7, the whole top of the long hood is lined with lead strips with just enough room for the factory headlight bulb. That helps quiet the drive train down as the hollow brass shell tends to make it sound louder, just like the surround we use for DCC sound speakers. This old GP7 will run as slow as any of the more modern diesels I have owned and this is with the original big open frame motor. I take the engines, strip the drive down to nothing and clean out all the old grease. The old stuff from back then turns either to thick goo, or rock hard causing drive train binding, high amp draw and overheating motors. I also go thru and shim the motor armature if it has any end to end play. I personaly prefer brass diesels, along with the memories the ozone from the open frame motor when I run them. Tenshodos are easily repowerd with a single ended can motor from NWSL, Sagami or whatever you prefer. I have even used Athearn gold case motors in some. My old GP9 has its brushes both isolated and a TCS T1 installed so I can run her at a friends house. I also gained directional lights, using the factory bulbs with a slight rewiring. Tenshodo specialized in diesels and Great Northern prototypes, most all were factory painted, something not many other builders/importers offered back then. Most all older brass came unpainted and unlighted. If anybody repowers Tenshodo and needs a home for the open frame, send them my way. I have plenty of motors for Alco models brass diesels, but I am out of spare Tenshodo motors. Tenshodo mainly used the old 410M brand of paint I was told by someone who sold them when they were new. It can be hard to match for touching up nicks. Athearn blue box handrails can be used to replace missing sections, or you can use brass wire. Feel free to contact me off list if you need to or need them reworked and tuned up. Cheers Mike P.S. Here is my Tenshodo NYC GP7, the second pic shows its drive train to give you the typical layout of whats under the hood of a Tenshodo, the other truck is driven by a drive shaft under the chassis, leaves lots of room for weight in the long hood.


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## mtoney (Oct 6, 2012)

Also, I highly recommend using Athearn drive shaft couplings between the motor and drive truck, otherwise they tend to bind in curves. That clear coupling has been replaced with the coupling set normaly used in a blue box F7. MIke


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

Thanks for the info! I still need to remove the shells and do some cleaning. I know the trucks need cleaning and lubing also.


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## midlifekrisiz (Jan 29, 2013)

i have acquired one of the older Tenshodo diesel units (not sure of the model) it wasn't working and i want to give it to my 12 yr old son who has shown an interest in HO as a xmas pressent.
took it to the local hobbie shop to get it fixed and last night i got a call that he got the motor working but when you put it on the track it does not pick up power. what would be the reason for this? (wheels have been cleaned and all motor parts cleaned and new grease put in)


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## lajrmdlr (Apr 25, 2014)

rrgrassi said:


> NICE!! I do also have an AHM ATSF 4-6-2 Pacific. It is not painted. The only issue with it is that the couplercut off lever has one end that is snapped off. I get to repair that. So that make 3 pieces of brass so far...


Detail Associates & Details West make cut levers in several styles. Just check that you get the Santa Fe type for that period.


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## lajrmdlr (Apr 25, 2014)

midlifekrisiz said:


> i have acquired one of the older Tenshodo diesel units (not sure of the model) it wasn't working and i want to give it to my 12 yr old son who has shown an interest in HO as a xmas pressent.
> took it to the local hobbie shop to get it fixed and last night i got a call that he got the motor working but when you put it on the track it does not pick up power. what would be the reason for this? (wheels have been cleaned and all motor parts cleaned and new grease put in)


Probably an open (loose ire?) between wheels & motor.


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## midlifekrisiz (Jan 29, 2013)

lajrmdlr said:


> Probably an open (loose ire?) between wheels & motor.


thats what i was thinking.....when you take the cab off there is a brass tab that is at the back that has a wire soldered to it and a nut holding it to the base....is this the power wire? if so then i bet it just needs to be taken apart and cleaned and put back on.


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## midlifekrisiz (Jan 29, 2013)

ok I figured it out and I am surprised that the train guy at the local hobby shop couldn't figure it out ......he managed to find a schematic on one of these units and sent me home with it as he was baffled as to why I works off track and not on track.....after looking at the schematic I see a small pic in the corner that points out the "insulated" wheels.....mine doesn't have any insulated wheels....all of them are shiny steel.

what can I use to insulate the wheels that are supposed to be insulated? would a thin coat of bullfrog snot do the trick?


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

the wheels you have already are insulated 'one side' ... where you can see a bit of black between the axle and wheel itself... when assembled power is picked up one side rear, other side front.... if you have the style that drives only one truck tower, it is possible the other truck turned a half turn, and both trucks are trying to pick power off the SAME side track....its not a short, but it will just sit there dead, the truck that has no wires attached picks up power and direct to the frame and then motor, the OTHER truck will have a wire off it, and has insulated washers top and bottom, this wire feeds the other side of the motor through the wire..I have a few of these diesels, and some steam...


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## midlifekrisiz (Jan 29, 2013)

I thought about it and then bet my bottom dollar that when I cleaned the trucks I put them back in the wrong way and sure enough flipped them over and wala it works.

took off the old couplers and managed to get one newer one on and working but need to drill a new screw hole so that the coupler sticks out just a bit further.


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## GN.2-6-8-0 (Jan 10, 2013)

You just need to install a coupler with a longer shank,no need to drill a new hole.


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## midlifekrisiz (Jan 29, 2013)

GN.2-6-8-0 said:


> You just need to install a coupler with a longer shank,no need to drill a new hole.


oh ok didn't know ...I am a S gauge guy


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