# How to remove tarnish from brass mode trains?



## musicwerks (Jan 4, 2012)

Hi,

I am about to acquire some 2nd hand brass trains pacific flying mail from evil bay.

A) The brass model is tarnished in the centre portion, how do I remove the tarnish w/o damaging the details or rough buffing?

B) if I were to paint it eventually (after I got tired of brass color) , how do I go about it? I use Tamiya and gunze acrylics with my double action airbrush (I was formerly a 1/35 tank modeler)

New to brass
Thanks v much
Kiong


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, I'd probably consider brass polish to remove the tarnish, it works wonders on other brass things I have.


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## pookybear (Feb 3, 2011)

musicwerks said:


> Hi,
> 
> I am about to acquire some 2nd hand brass trains pacific flying mail from evil bay.
> 
> ...



If you are going to paint you need to etch the surface first as
paint does not stick well to brass. It is too smooth. So use some kind of
etching primer before painting.

Pookybear


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## musicwerks (Jan 4, 2012)

Thanks guys 
cheers.


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## inxy (Dec 10, 2010)

BRASSO - used this in the army and for years on brass, does the job.


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## mtoney (Oct 6, 2012)

I second the Brasso, but then I also use my carb cleaner stripping can that I use for small engine carbs, but only if the model is being prepped for paint. It will remove all the tarnish and the clear varnish that was applied to many early brass models (it was pourous back then so they still tarnished with time). Then I run the model thru the dishwasher to remove all oils and residue from stripping. After the model is dry, I warm the shell with a hair dryer, then lay down paint. I prefer to use oil based paint on brass. After each color, the model goes in the over for 1 hour at 185'. Once cool, I can mask for next color or move on to decals. My stripper can natuarly etches the brass, and once baked, the finish is hard and doesnt chip easy. Naturaly, motors, wheels ect are all removed prior to any of this. I am preparing to paint a C&O RSD7 diesel now. Working on all the upgrades to the drive system right now. I prime the model with a light grey primer to give an even tone finish for the color coat. I usualy can paint a single or double color model in one day, decal and seal the following day. I do not bake the model after its decaled or if it has extra details that are ACC (super glued) on. Then it takes much longer to air dry, or I will carry the model out on the deck and let the sun naturaly bake the model. Those models take a week or more usualy, allowing for drying time between colors. Mike


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## musicwerks (Jan 4, 2012)

Thanks guys 
cheers kiong


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Brass like sterling silver gets tarnished and that will come off easily with Brasso or any kind of metal polish. However like SS brass can get stained and that means the discoloration is deep in the metal. If the polish doesn't work try some 0000 steel wool. You'll need to repolish the brass after the wool but if that doesn't take the discoloration off easily then it's too deep in the metal and will probably not come out. Then,in the case of a loco, it's time to paint. Pete


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## musicwerks (Jan 4, 2012)

Thanks pete


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