# Fastening Track



## shortwrench (Nov 21, 2019)

A few years ago I splurged and purchased the 2018 Walthers catalog, signifying the end of a 30 year hiatus from
model railroading. Previously my son and I built a N scale folded figure 8 layout on a hollow core door. It was a modest
setup with an overpass, a couple of sidings, and the requisite tunnel made of crumpled newspaper and strips of paper towels dipped in plaster.

This time I selected HO and after many sketches on graph paper I decided on a 5 ft x 10 ft footprint which fit the space available. I stayed with the folded figure 8 configuration with the addition of a yard, passing siding, industry spurs, and a track which also served as a reversing loop. 2" foam insulation on top of a L girder frame met my requirements for a mostly flat trackplan which incorporated some areas of water.

I used Atlas code 100 flex track. Push pins were used to position the track and turnouts as the pike started to materialize. With the track completed I wanted to run trains to validate my track laying efforts. With a tag sale DC GP40 and some borrowed freight and passenger cars I was all set for a maiden run. There was only one problem. How do I keep the track and turnouts in position without the push pins. I had a small container of 17 x 3/4" nails. They were just the right size to fit the holes in the ties. Since I only had about 20 nails I made a trip to the local home improvement store and purchased a container. The new nails would not fit through the holes in the ties. New ones-made in China vs the old ones-made in USA. Time for plan B.

Scrounging around my wood working area I came across 1-1/4" nails for my pneumatic brad nailer. They are of pyramid shape and fit snugly in the holes in the ties. They are easily pushed in most of the way with my finger and finished with a nail set. A touch on the nailhead with a black Sharpie makes the nail barely discernible. Originally I was just going to use the brad nails while I ran and debugged the trackwork. At one point I decided to electrically isolate the mainline section which is parallel to the isolated passing siding. Pop out some nails, pull up some track and replace track joiners with insulated joiners, replace track, and replace the nails. In the past 2 years, the nails held in the foam without loosening.


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

That’s a pretty good tip for HO. I thought you would need to glue track to foam which would make it hard to remove. I am an O gauger and screw the track directly to plywood. Also easy to remove…until I apply ballast and glue that in place. I wonder if any other HO folks have tried your method.


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## Bonz85 (Sep 16, 2019)

Surprised they held so long. I plan on starting my layout soon and didn't want to lay the track on foam since I don't have an exact track plan but want to lay down track and run trains before permanently fixing it. Might have to rethink that.


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## shortwrench (Nov 21, 2019)

I used the 1-1/4" long nails because that was the longest brad nails I had laying around. Still no problems to date regarding them loosening. Since I'm using 2" thick foam, I could have used longer nails but haven't had the need to to go to longer nails.


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## Bonz85 (Sep 16, 2019)

Did you use flex track on the curvse? That would be my main worry about the nails not holding the track properly.


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## shortwrench (Nov 21, 2019)

Yes. I used flex track throughout. I used more nails where the curves met straight areas and turnouts. They are cheap enough and easy enough to install. Feel free to use additional nails when in doubt. You'll develop a feel as you install the nails and try to wiggle the track to see if it is secure.


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

I like that idea!


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