# Benchwork - Christmas Layout



## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

This project is dedicated to my Father-in-Law, Duke. We didn't see eye-to-eye on much, but when I dragged out the trains this summer, his eyes lit up. I thought we had finally found some common ground. Duke passed away this September, before we were able to do the layout together. He would have LOVED it.

- * - * -

After much hemming and hawing, I finally figured out that the size would be 6' X 12' - based on the ping pong table and built in three sections which easily be stored. It allowed easy movement around the table and easy reach to any section of the layout with a minimum of muss and fuss. I want to thank all the O-Gaugers on this forum who helped me sort through all these ideas that I had. 

I decided the level and support the ping pong table at the center break with some section of scrap 1X6's and sections of 2X4's, which I cut to size. I let this set for a few days to make sure it was steady; I figured I could move forward. Sorry about the crappy quality of this photo, but I think you guys get the idea. *Photo Replaced!*










I decided to cover the ping pong table top with moving blankets, due to thickness of the padding and the durability factor.










I had Lowe's trim 2' off three sheets of 15/32" 1-side sanded BX plywood, and went with 2X3 reinforcement framing. The 1X3's were crappy, and the 2X3's were less than 20 cents more in price.










I had a bunch of 1 1/8" drywall screws, so they worked fine. I had to buy 2.5" drywall screws to secure the framework to itself. The assembly was a little awkward and tedious, but all three sections are now done and two are in place. The sections will be held together with 3" hex-head lag bolts, fender washers, and hex nuts.










The work so far is shown in the photos.


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

I get the idea, and like it so far.

I'd suggest you paint the plywood before you get too far.

I wish I had.


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

I have a gallon of Kelly Green - I've been thinking about that. I think I'm going to use some of that foam floor underlayment as suggested by a number of operators here - in an effort to reduce the rail noise a bit. Painting the base bench work would then be kind of superfluous, but I know EXACTLY what you're saying.


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

That's a nice table Badwolf but I have my eye on your record collection. Looks like you have a lot of music there. What turntable do you use? Pete


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

norgale said:


> That's a nice table Badwolf but I have my eye on your record collection. Looks like you have a lot of music there. What turntable do you use? Pete


Hey Pete - The one that's on the stack right now is a Technics SL-1650. I had lent it to a friend and just got it back - I'm doing a 1-2 month test on it to make sure all is well. I have other tables (SL-1350, Numark TTi, Numark TT-200, JVC QL-A75 (which is like my "Queen Mother" of Turntables)).

I *LOVE* vinyl albums.


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

Primary base bench work looks to be completed. Lego Master Troy (from across the street) came over and helped move the last section into place over lunchtime.










I am now debating whether to paint or not. I think I will ultimately, but I don't know whether it will be right now. I have the paint, but have to see how time shakes out.

The sections are now bolted together, and the table is pretty stable (for what it is) if I do say so myself.










More as it comes together. Thanks for all the help and feedback.


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

I had picked up a couple of NOS Lionel/K-Line tunnel portals, because I would use them to build a little tunnel sort of deal under a raised section of the layout.

I hot glued some small angle brackets to the rear, after measuring to make sure the height would be correct. I actually used the tunnel portals as a guide to determine the height of the 2X4 stubs that would support the raised section of the bench work.










The portals are not yet fixed in place, as I don't have a firm layout in my mind at this point. I can still move the platform around on the main bench work, so as to be a little more flexible with what I can ultimately do.










So the platform (5/8", I think, MDF) is supported by 9 2X4 stubs, and the portals can be placed as need be and affixed later.










My plan is to have a smaller oval on the upper level (kicking out onto trestles if need be) on an off-angle so as to create more excitement for the eye.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I like it, already. Double layers. Tunnel. Fun!


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

NICE I like the idea of trestles coming off the upper layer.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

I sure hope the train does not derail inside your tunnel. Will the top be attached or removable?
-Art


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

Artieiii said:


> I sure hope the train does not derail inside your tunnel. Will the top be attached or removable?
> -Art


I'll have the tunnel at a side or a corner of the bench work with the outside open for just such a situation. If I "close it in," it'll be with foam fake rocks. Rest assured, access won't be a problem.


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

So - check this out -

I come down to this morning, and I notice that one of the tunnel portals has tipped over. Both hot glue "welds" on _one_ of the portals have failed and the other portal is rock solid.

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot?? 

I'm going to try it again, but I'm going to slightly "rough-up" the back of the portal to see if the glue adheres better.

Anyone else ever have something like this happen?


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Badwolf & Arizona RR said:


> So - check this out -
> 
> I come down to this morning, and I notice that one of the tunnel portals has tipped over. Both hot glue "welds" on _one_ of the portals have failed and the other portal is rock solid.
> 
> ...


Bad Kitty!!!
-Art


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

No kitty. No puppy. Just glue failing.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Badwolf & Arizona RR said:


> No kitty. No puppy. Just glue failing.


I have never had much luck with hot glue. It holds well gluing 2 pieces of plastic together but wood it does not seem to work well. Other glues seem to work better. I saw a video where someone made throttle pockets out of plastic electrical boxes but the video showed him attach them to his layout using hot glue. There has got to be a better way to attach them (more secure).
-Art


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Contact cement, maybe?


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

tjcruiser said:


> Contact cement, maybe?


I was contemplating Gorilla Glue. That stuff is nigh-on indestructible.


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

It was the Haloween tunnel portal hobgoblin what got it. Pete


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Hot glue either sticks to a specific material, or it doesn't. Also, you can buy different sticks that work better for specific jobs and materials. I've seen the same thing, and roughing the surface up almost always helps, a smooth surface is frequently problematic.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Plastic electrical boxes!!!!!! OOOOOOOOOOOOH idea. I will test my theory and use PVC glue for piping to glue'em together. I promise not to try it on already installed boxes.  I love a short and sweet project.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Another problem with hot glue is the amount of heat the parts can sink, if you have a large surface with a large thermal mass, the glue hardens before it can get a grip. I ran across that issue, even roughing the surface didn't help much.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

T-Man said:


> Plastic electrical boxes!!!!!! OOOOOOOOOOOOH idea. I will test my theory and use PVC glue for piping to glue'em together. I promise not to try it on already installed boxes.  I love a short and sweet project.


Here is the video of how to make a throttle pocket with plastic electrical boxes:
http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/5731
-Art


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Hey Art,

I watched that video by "Big Al Mayo" ... what a character! That guy is great, with some really clever home-build ideas.

How'd you hear about him and his videos?

TJ


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

My only question is: What is a throttle pocket????????? What does it do???


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

T-Man said:


> My only question is: What is a throttle pocket????????? What does it do???


T-man
A throttle pocket is a piece of plastic that holds you DCC cab controller. Keeps it in handy reach of your layout. Here is a commercial one: If you need a whole bunch for your layout it could get costly.








They usually run about $10-14 each. TJ, I was looking at model railroad hobbyist magazine and stumbled on that link.
-Art


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

AT LAST!!

Something for my layout that I don't need!

And probably will never need, unless my 1033's become portable.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Thank You. 
I was thinking of the station boxes that are used to keep track of boxcars when imitating a real railroad.


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

"T" stands for
Trains, Track, Trestles, more Trains, Throttle Pockets, and MORE TRAINS!


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

I finished the basic bench work, adding a second level to the corner of the raised platform. This will hold the Radio Station building.










This what it looks like with the first coat of green paint (as was suggested). It's a little (as in teensy-weensy) bit bright for me, but I had the paint, and it was inexpensive, so I'm happy. I'll look at it again tomorrow to see if it needs a second coat. I have the paint and I might as well do it now.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Nice progress.

You could mix in a little black to the paint can to darken it up a bit on the 2nd coat, if you wanted to. You wouldn't need much black ... just a couple of tablespoons, I'd guess.


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

tjcruiser said:


> You could mix in a little black to the paint can to darken it up a bit on the 2nd coat, if you wanted to. You wouldn't need much black ... just a couple of tablespoons, I'd guess.


I'll give that some thought. Good idea.


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

Bought and "installed" the 1" rigid blue Dow Styrofoam sub-roadbed over the bench work.










On the 6' X 12' bench, I used 5 pieces, and then on the "platform" section I used 1 piece, cut basically in half (with a little shaving)










I didn't put any of it on the third tier, as only the Radio Station building will be up there - no tracks - no need for sound deadening.










I'll have another couple of shots soon, as we then enclosed the "layout" sides of the platform, so that light coming through would be minimal behind the more-sheer-than-I'd-like-it snow ground cover.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

The green paint looks fine now that the foam is on.:laugh:


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

Okay - So now we're getting ready for the wiring. I don't have money for a current ZW- equivalent or a Z4000. I have a Z1000 and will be running 1 train with 3 lit passenger cars and one 6-12052 grade crossing with flashers (no gates). Keeping that in mind, how many terminal tracks do I need to fit into the layout, so that I can keep the speed constant (you know, without the slow spots and fast spots) - also, I'm assuming that trains move slower through O36 turns than they do on straightaways.

The layout is going to look something like this, but a little bigger (length added here and there to fill my 6' X 12'):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lionel-FasT...&otn=5&po=LVI&ps=63&clkid=4201912314736381556

Thanks in advance.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Looks like great progress. I like the layout concept. Simple, but fun.

Uhh ... you're gonna need a big umbrella runnin' those trains outside in the rain!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Why did you paint the whole table if you were planning on covering it with the foam?


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

Dave Sams had made the recommendation, and this is my first time doing it. I had the paint, so I figured I'd go ahead and do it. No specific reason other than that. 

I can also use the sections for yard sale tables. :thumbsup:


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Badwolf & Arizona RR said:


> Dave Sams had made the recommendation, and this is my first time doing it. I had the paint, so I figured I'd go ahead and do it. No specific reason other than that.
> 
> I can also use the sections for yard sale tables. :thumbsup:



It is a nice Christmas green.:thumbsup:


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

big ed said:


> Why did you paint the whole table if you were planning on covering it with the foam?


I was wondering the same thing. I guess I'll have to stick around.


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

Dave Sams said:


> I was wondering the same thing. I guess I'll have to stick around.


This one is from post #2 in this thread:

_I get the idea, and like it so far.

I'd suggest you paint the plywood before you get too far.

I wish I had. _ - Dave Sams

Being the newbie that I am, I figured that this suggestion arose from problems encountered later due to unfinished wood within the bench work itself.

It's no big deal either way. It allows me to use it as a summer layout as well and use the individual sections as utility tables as needed.

So - based on a layout of about this size:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lionel-FasT...&otn=5&po=LVI&ps=63&clkid=4201912314736381556

how many terminal tracks (meaning voltage supply points) would you think I would need?

That's more to the point. :thumbsup:


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Your link to a layout is bad.


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

I think the rule of thumb is add current every 5 feet of track. If you look at the track as a conductor, you have a lot of metal, but you also have a lot of friction connections.

I use 0-27 track, some of which is 60 years old. I added power wherever the loco slowed down. Sometimes, I added power on both sides of a switch. The best thing I have found as far as power is concerned is track pliers, which I found at a local train shop.


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

Fixed the link. Should work now.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Dave Sams said:


> I think the rule of thumb is add current every 5 feet of track. If you look at the track as a conductor, you have a lot of metal, but you also have a lot of friction connections.
> 
> I use 0-27 track, some of which is 60 years old. I added power wherever the loco slowed down. Sometimes, I added power on both sides of a switch. The best thing I have found as far as power is concerned is track pliers, which I found at a local train shop.


Every 5 foot is overkill IMO, especially for Fastrack that's fairly new. Also, for tubular track, I recommend soldering sections with a small jumper wire, works great and minimizes the number of power drops required. You still want a few power drops, but I had a 4x8 table with two loops and a couple of sidings with two power drops and soldered track, I had no voltage drop issues.


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

I have two power inputs right now off of a Z1000, and my MTH SW-9 works fine with no visible slowing. It's also able to crawl along, which I like.

As a side note, The MTH SW-9 is a Proto 2 engine which I really dig. It runs quieter on the tracks (less "track" noise) than the K-Line MP-15 and can pull like a mule on speed. I guess the next thing I have to is wait for the Proto 3 V1000 in LIRR vintage livery to be shipped sometime in 2012.


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

I've got the layout mock-ups in place, and I like the space that I have to play with buildings.

_From Overhead:_









_Front One End:_









_From The Middle:_

















I still have to cut the actual support sub-roadbed section for the trestle, and I'll support it with either 2X2's, 2X3's, or some sort of dowel (1" or so). I know I'll be able to reduce the number of upright stanchions when I shift to the 1/2" plywood decking. I'll likely wind up painting that all gray - make it look like concrete.

I'd like to include some sort of steel girder bridge eventually, but that will likely be saved for next year. I'd also like to include some switches, but I'd need a different basic main line.


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

Looks good. It should be interresting to watch. 

The gray paint sound like a nice touch, now, all you need are a few dozen lights and you are all set.


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

How does the fastrack sound on the foam?

My 0-27 on plywood is loud, which is what I wanted.

Loud trains, horns and whistles lights, smoke, noisy oil derecks and operating billboards.


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

Noise levels.

The K-Line MP-15 is still quite "clackety" on the FasTrack and the foam; 
The MTH SW-9 is much quieter, but maybe that is because the track noise is drowned out by the Proto 2 sounds. In any event, I like the SW-9 better. But the LIRR passenger consist _seems_ quieter when pulled by the SW-9.

I've only done a few test laps with the Doc Express on the trestle, and it works fine. Did a voltage tap off a curve right near the transformer. I'll run the wire up a stanchion or something.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Looks great so far. What are you planning on putting on the 3rd level?
-Art


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I like the criss-crossed loop-back. Adds some fun interest to the layout.

Thanks for the updates!

TJ


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

Artieiii said:


> Looks great so far. What are you planning on putting on the 3rd level?
> -Art


There will be a radio station building up there.


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

Well, we (my friend Brandon and I) cut out the wooden trestle section from 1/2" plywood, and got the stanchions cut. All seems to be going well. My daughter is at the controls.










Went outside to shoot the first coat of gray paint (to simulate concrete) and while shaking the can between passes, the lip of the can had filled up and I was shaking paint all over my shirt, the patio table, etc. 

As a side note - WD-40 is a great solvent for spray paint (at least on hands - the shirt is likely ruined).


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

I think you need someway for the trains to go from one level to the other. Now that would be a piece of work. Pete


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

norgale said:


> I think you need someway for the trains to go from one level to the other. Now that would be a piece of work. Pete


Believe when I tell you I've been thinking about it - but with the inventory of track sections that I have and the available real estate, there doesn't seem to be an easy solution.

Add to that that I am a full-on novice, with little experience at blocking sections of track, running locomotives, etc. I don't want stuff to crash together, if you get my drift.

More interesting stuff will come with time, money, experience, and know-how. :thumbsup:

FWIW


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

Here's a somewhat final report on the Christmas Layout. You'll see that there is still a lot of open real estate, but you have to understand that this is a work in progress, and will hopefully be expanded with further property development in years to come.

_Overhead shot:_









_From The Controls:_









_The LIRR:_









_Doc's Express:_









_"Downtown":_









_"Downtown" Part Two:_









_The Radio Station:_









_Jack's Auto Parts:_









_The Park:_









If I make any changes I will be sure to post photos. I welcome any and all feedback.

Thanks for all you guys' help getting the bench work done and all the good input in this and many other threads.

- Paul in AZ


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

Real nice. Thanks for posting the pictures.


So glad you painted the plywood green.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Looks great, it's coming along very nicely!


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## njrailer93 (Nov 28, 2011)

love it! cant wait to start on mine


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## eljefe (Jun 11, 2011)

I like the guy driving through downtown with a surfboard on his roof while there's snow on the ground.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

eljefe said:


> I like the guy driving through downtown with a surfboard on his roof while there's snow on the ground.


Wishful thinking.


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Excellent work Badwolf. I like Jacks Tool shop. Looks great along with the rest. I don't think any Christmas layout ever looked so good. Pete


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Looks great! I really like the folded-over crossover in your lower loop. You can add cars to your train so that it's just barely short enough to avoid a nose-to-tail collision in way of the crossover ... you'll have the hearts of a few visitors skipping a beat!

Jack's auto shop is fabulous ... filled with lots of fun detail.

Hey ... what's a guy from Peoria doing with a Mets sticker in the window ?!?

Cheers,

TJ


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## eljefe (Jun 11, 2011)

tjcruiser said:


> Jack's auto shop is fabulous ... filled with lots of fun detail.


I wonder what brand of tools are used there...


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

eljefe said:


> I wonder what brand of tools are used there...



I think they are Snap-On.


I have one set somewhere in O. :thumbsup:
It should be in my scenery box waiting to be released to the layout.


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## KarenORichmond (Nov 14, 2011)

Artieiii said:


> I have never had much luck with hot glue. It holds well gluing 2 pieces of plastic together but wood it does not seem to work well. Other glues seem to work better. I saw a video where someone made throttle pockets out of plastic electrical boxes but the video showed him attach them to his layout using hot glue. There has got to be a better way to attach them (more secure).
> -Art


They use to sell wood glue sticks for a hot glue gun. Never tried them though so no experience with them. We used Gorilla glue recently on some trim around a shelf and it seems to have worked well.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Dave Sams said:


> Real nice. Thanks for posting the pictures.
> 
> 
> So glad you painted the plywood green.



Looking great.:thumbsup:

At least he knows it won't rot, as it is painted.
Plus he had the paint anyway.

One question wheres the Christmas tree go?


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

eljefe said:


> I like the guy driving through downtown with a surfboard on his roof while there's snow on the ground.


That's just like me going over Mingus Mountain from Jerome, AZ into Prescott, AZ about a year ago.

Snow and a surfboard. :thumbsup:


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

tjcruiser said:


> Hey ... what's a guy from Peoria doing with a Mets sticker in the window ?!?
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> TJ


I'm originally from New York, thus the LIRR - I grew up on that train.


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

big ed said:


> One question wheres the Christmas tree go?


- it goes to a 3 AA battery pack which I turn on independently of the power strips for the houses and transformers. They run on 4.5 volts (or thereabouts)


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