# E Unit Video



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Found this through Yahoo Groups.

Part 1





Part 2


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

T-Man,

:appl::appl::appl:

Great videos ... packed with good tips. My compliments to the guy behind the scene.

A few take-aways for TJ ...

1. I LOVE that squeeze-to-spread pliers ... gotta get me one those!!!

2. I've done the e-unit bottom rebuild a few times, but never had the top plate (around the coil) off. Neat to see it here. I like that that gives access to tighten up the lever rivet.

3. Speaking of which, I was a bit dissappointed to learn that the Lionel Jr motor on my 258 has an e-unit with the lever on the opposite side (rear) when compared to the e-unit lever on my 1681's (lever is on the front there). However, this video teaches me that one can pull the top plate off of the e-unit, and simply flip the plate / lever around to whatever side is needed.

Ohhhhhh .... I like ....

TJ


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

For the squeeze to spread pliers I'm using some snap-ring pliers I had in my tool box. They do a great job. 

My question is - what do I do to tighten the rivet on the lever? I can get everything stripped down to that point, but I don't have a press available. 

Any suggestions?


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

In one post I inserted a spacer made from the spring of a measuring tape.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Yup, I saw that post. I've been playing with doing the same, but with (so far) limited success. Hmmm . . .


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The other option is pulling the top off, replacing or resqueesing the old rivet.
You can't do it assembled. You have to be careful not to wreck the fine wire connections. The insert was easier.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Yup, I've had it fully disassembled including the coil out. I played for a bit with the lever and trying to get it tightened. I was hoping to avoid drilling out the rivet and replacing it, but that might just be what it takes. 

Time for more playing.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Here is that post
Start by drilling a hole to fit the rivet. Then cut the length, trim the corners. Then cut a little v to help press it around the rivet.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Thanks, T-Man! Could you check the link for the post? That's going to the other discussion we're on about how to get 2 trains to run at once.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Yeah I checked and corrected. The buttons got the best of me. Somehow I got into popup blockups!


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Ah-ha! Much better. Thanks! 

Looks like that will be my first project tonight.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

T-Man,

I like the spring spacer-washer idea. Clever. I have a loose lever on one of my locos (forget which), and scratched my head over it a bit. I might do a little T-retro-fitting!

TJ


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

Hey, T-Man! Do you have one with *AMERICAN FLYER E UNITS?* *innocent look*


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

First of all I have never seen a broken American Flyer reverse unit. You tube has a lot of smoke units. So I got this to please.


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

Mostly, I wanted to see Timboy go off when I called it an E unit.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

No, he would if it was in the S forum. I wonder what the parts guys call it? 

If you keep it there long enough, Maybe.


Cool Cow





HEY I found the 1202 track controller.

AF parts has a reverse unit listed. I never noticed that before until it was mentioned.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

That cow is definitely cool. And I like the talking station too. 

Thanks for the videos, T-Man!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I like the station-man recording ... cool.

Interestingly, the link says that the 1202 controller won't work for just one train running on the loop. I guess you need 2 trains to toggle the cycle properly.

TJ


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