# Cutting plywood layout without earthquake



## Dennis461 (Jan 5, 2018)

I need to cut into my plywood layout without causing an earthquake.
A small pond needs to get bigger.
The pond is a kidney shaped hole in the 1/2" plywood, with foam glued under it and it is contoured and scenicked with some paint and vermiculite. I'll most likely pull the foam off the bottom (if I can reach it) and redo after the hole is made bigger.

I have lots of tools, powered and otherwise.
I could take an Exacto knife and slowly cut down into the plywood without an earthquake and a week from now have my desired effect.

I could fire up the sabersaw, and cut this out in a minute, then spend a week rebuilding water towers, stations, trees etc.
What would you use?
My only limitation is that I cannot reach underneath due to an under layout storage container which serves as a layout support


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## Mark VerMurlen (Aug 15, 2015)

I would try an oscillating saw with a very fine tooth blade. It will cause high frequency vibration, but it will be better than a saber saw. Go slow with the saw.


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## bewhole (Dec 31, 2016)

I would think a dremel would not shake it too much.


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## cole226 (Feb 8, 2013)

How about drilling continuous side by side holes then clean them up with a keyhole saw?


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

+1 for the Dremel.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I like the drilling holes idea. That would probably not shake much at all, and then you could carefully cut out the piece in question.

For any of the saws in question, I wonder if clearance to get to the area in question would be a consideration.


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## Dennis461 (Jan 5, 2018)

Well, I started with a vibrating oscillating saw and found out there is a 1x3 right there supporting the plywood.
The saw shook more than I liked anyway.

Maybe move the pond and bridge or slide a mirror under it


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

I would use a jigsaw, an electric one, but I would get up over the area and have my weight on my knees equally balanced around the area to be excised. I don't know if that's possible...or merely dangerous and stupid...but I would figure out even a temporary scaffolding of 2X4 wedged under there to support me, to help with the buffeting forces itself, and get my weight up there. I think you'll find it a quick job after that.


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## 65446 (Sep 22, 2018)

🌈 What about firstly removing the little trestle and removing all loose structures and all the trains...The rest you could put wide blue masking tape over. Any track you think will be affected you could put weights, books, full soup cans, on..Yeah I know the earthquake thing..But with all that it likely will go faster than you think via a jigsaw. Then the smoke will settle and, ta da ! It will all still be there.... 🛤🌄🛤


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## Dennis461 (Jan 5, 2018)

I may move the track further into the back corner, as it is a temporary addition using up some sectional track and bridge parts. If I increase radius to 24-26" and eliminate the straight section, I can avoid cutting the 1x3 brace. Of course, after taking this picture, I see a need to throw away the code 100 sectional and continue with code 83 flex. My plan was not to spend any more money on this .

Oh wait, I can sell the box full of brass track and turnouts on ebay and use the money for new flex track. Maybe have a little money left over to switch to DCC


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## cid (Jul 3, 2014)

Dennis461 said:


> My plan was not to spend any more money on this


MUAHAHAHA that could happen....


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## 65446 (Sep 22, 2018)

I don't know exactly what's going on now. But why not just fill in the pond, put the track any way you like, and maybe install the trestle elsewhere (if this is what has been causing problems).


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## cid (Jul 3, 2014)

I say use fire... minimum vibration...


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

Dennis461 said:


> I need to cut into my plywood layout without causing an earthquake.
> A small pond needs to get bigger.
> The pond is a kidney shaped hole in the 1/2" plywood, with foam glued under it and it is contoured and scenicked with some paint and vermiculite. I'll most likely pull the foam off the bottom (if I can reach it) and redo after the hole is made bigger.
> 
> ...


Denis 461;

A "RotoZip" tool would work. It's sort of a "Dremel on steroids." larger and more powerful, but with a removable handle and guide, that let it get into pretty tight spaces. If you aim to keep the little wood truss bridge in place, were you planning on cutting up from below? The 1 x 3 being in the way is a bummer, but very typical of the joys of model railroading we all experience! Maybe ol' Linn Westcott was on the right track with his moveable joists & L-girder benchwork, way back when. If you can't move/remove/cut through the 1 x 3, then you might be able to could cut the outline of the pond up to the sides of the 1 x 3, and then use a utility knife or Dremel with a saw blade to cut the last bits of plywood over the 1 x 3, from the top.

Good Luck;

Traction Fan


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