# Gluing down bare metal rails



## xrunner (Jul 29, 2011)

I'm making the Scale Scenes Inspection pit -

http://www.scalescenes.com/products/R002c

The rails have to be cut from the ties and glued down to the paper base. I need to glue down bare metal to paper. The designed says to -



> apply a thin bead of *impact glue* or similar to the undersides of the rails


Does anyone know what "impact glue" is? What types of glue can duplicate this "impact glue"? The glue needs to hold metal to paper and not destroy the surrounding ink patterns.

Thanks.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Just a guess but impact glue sound like contact cement to me. Just wondering how you can be sure the rails are perfectly spaced before any glue you use sets up.
-Art


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Pretty sure Alene's tacky glue would work. I glued rails into my diesels shop with it. Dries clear and stays somewhat flexible. There are track alignment gauges that are available.

http://www.walthers.com/exec/search...rds=restrict&instock=Q&split=30&Submit=Search


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## xrunner (Jul 29, 2011)

Artieiii said:


> Just a guess but impact glue sound like contact cement to me. Just wondering how you can be sure the rails are perfectly spaced before any glue you use sets up.
> -Art


The kit includes a rail gauge jig you print out on heavy paper. I've checked it on my Kato track and it's accurate.

So you think it's a type of contact cement? I have contact cement already. Do you think that's the best option to glue bare metal to paper?


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Whatever adhesive you use, I would sand (actual sandpaper!) the underside of the rails before applying the adhesive. The sanding will create micro-scratches that will help hold the adhesive to the metal. After sanding, wipe down the rails with denatured alcohol prior to gluing.

TJ


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## xrunner (Jul 29, 2011)

tjcruiser said:


> Whatever adhesive you use, I would sand (actual sandpaper!) the underside of the rails before applying the adhesive. The sanding will create micro-scratches that will help hold the adhesive to the metal. After sanding, wipe down the rails with denatured alcohol prior to gluing.
> 
> TJ


Aha - good idea. That's why I ask these things before I try it!


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

"Impact glue sticks on contact with itself strong hold no need to clamp"

http://www.thesitebox.com/adhesives-and-fillers/adhesives/impact-adhesive.aspx

I'd like to claim I already knew, but I had to look it up.


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

...and that was great advice, Teej!


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## xrunner (Jul 29, 2011)

Reckers said:


> "Impact glue sticks on contact with itself strong hold no need to clamp"
> 
> http://www.thesitebox.com/adhesives-and-fillers/adhesives/impact-adhesive.aspx
> 
> I'd like to claim I already knew, but I had to look it up.


I wonder where I can get it around town - Home Depot and Lowes don't list it. I'd like to try it just for kicks.

Edit: Never mind - I see it's a UK product.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'm sure there are tons of contact cement products that will do that. The trick is getting the alignment right BEFORE you join the parts.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

CA (super glue) glue is the best choice for this!
Why because you can set one rail in strait, without messing up the ink pattern on the card stock, then you can set the gauge on the second rail and set it with out moving the rail.
The capillary action of the CA will wick down the rail with out having to move it.
Rough up the bottom of the rails, Like TJ said, then wipe with alcohol, let dry and attach.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

If you invest in the CA accelerator, you can also speed the process a bunch.


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## xrunner (Jul 29, 2011)

NIMT said:


> CA (super glue) glue is the best choice for this!


Could well be - I'm going to have to try an experiment first on a scratch printout to make sure the ink isn't messed up. The designer didn't mention CA glue, but it sounds better because I can set the alignment first. Not sure why he suggested contact cement in the instructions, I'm sure he's aware of CA.


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## xrunner (Jul 29, 2011)

I think I'm going to do the project differently than the instructions after a certain point. I want the top of the rails to be at ground level outside the pit like the picture below. If you build it like the instructions, the rails will be above ground level outside the pit also. So what I'm going to do is build a module with the rails attached to thin balsa wood around the edges and with some "bridges" attached between the rails to hold the gauge. When this module is done I will then just drop it on top of the completed pit, and tack it down.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Is the pit going to have water in it too?


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## xrunner (Jul 29, 2011)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Is the pit going to have water in it too?


No.

The kit shows where the drain is at the bottom. I'm going to cut it out and run a small tube through the table to a cup which will be hanging by a wire. This should work and catch all the water that accumulates in the pit. I don't want the LEDs to short out.


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## tooter (Feb 26, 2010)

+1 on the superglue... 

I glued bare rails onto a CD to make a small manual turntable...










...and use two Kadee #205 gauges to align the rails.









Then apply drops of liquid, not gel, and the glue creeps under the rails by capillary action.


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## xrunner (Jul 29, 2011)

choo choo said:


> I glued bare rails onto a CD to make a small manual turntable...


To continue gunrunnerjohn's joking lead, what music does it play when rotating?


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

City of New Orleans? John Henry? Wreck of the Old 97?

Or....the Byrds: "To everything...turn, turn, turn..."


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Is the pit going to have water in it too?


I was seriously wondering about that pit, myself...not the water. It looks to be only 24-30" deep. Why would they go to the trouble to construct a pit and not make it deep enough to stand in?


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## xrunner (Jul 29, 2011)

Reckers said:


> I was seriously wondering about that pit, myself...not the water. It looks to be only 24-30" deep. Why would they go to the trouble to construct a pit and not make it deep enough to stand in?


It's easier to bail water from a sitting position? :dunno:


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

Maybe so. Seems too deep for a creeper, and too shallow to stand. Unless they have HO scale maintenance people.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Reckers said:


> I was seriously wondering about that pit, myself...not the water. It looks to be only 24-30" deep. Why would they go to the trouble to construct a pit and not make it deep enough to stand in?



Inspection pits were just that, for inspection.
The man (inspector) would sit there as they rolled the cars or engine over the top and he would inspect the under side of the cars.
Where he could, he could stand up if needed to get to the bottom of the car.


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