# Turnouts



## Duck52 (Jan 31, 2018)

Trying to work my way thru the process.
Settled on N scale. 
Since everything will be new. I will be going with DCC and all wheel pickup on the engines(if possible). 
Would like to stay as accurate as possible so code 55 track seems to be the answer.
Been looking at structures I would like to incorporate and have come up with a concept and general track plan that fits the room.
Next step picking turnouts and track? My readings have led me to Peco Insulfrog turnouts as a quality product.They are supposed to be "DCC friendly" requiring no modification and as long as I have all wheel pickup I should have few issues.
I have not settle on track yet , but was leaning towards Atlas.
So it's time to order a few turnouts and a little track and start fiddling with the actual details before I fully commit and make that big order.
Am I correct when I say that most insulfrogs are code 80 and most of the code 55 are electrofrogs. 
Short of doing the whole layout in code 80 How do most resolve this?


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## Brakeman Jake (Mar 8, 2009)

Peco C55 have no Insulfrog type turnouts...Electrofrog type turnouts only.But don't let this turn you around though,the possible Electrofrog issues are largely exagerated.I've installed quite a few so far and haven't had a single issue yet.Simply put insulators where Peco tells you to and everything will be fine.

Electrofrog turnouts have provision should frogs need additional powering but unless you run very small or older locos,you likely won't need it.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*DCC friendly Bunk*



Duck52 said:


> Trying to work my way thru the process.
> Settled on N scale.
> Since everything will be new. I will be going with DCC and all wheel pickup on the engines(if possible).
> Would like to stay as accurate as possible so code 55 track seems to be the answer.
> ...


Duck 52;

Any brand or type of turnout will work with DCC, or DC. The advertising claim of "DCC friendly" is 99% bull. The only turnout problem related to DCC concerns "power routing" turnouts. I want to emphasize right up front that the problem is extremely rare, and if your turnouts, and all the wheels on your rolling stock, are in proper gage, you may never even see it. It is also possible, and easy, to work around the problem.

This is what might happen. On many turnouts the stock (outside) rail, and the point (moveable) rail are of opposite electrical polarity. If a metal wheel happens to bridge across these two rails, it will create a short circuit. That doesn't matter much on a DC railroad, because the short circuit is very brief, and the slow-acting circuit breaker of a DC power pack won't have time to react to it. 
DCC controllers have very fast-acting circuit breakers and could shut down power if the same brief short occurred. The simple cure for this is to use insulated rail joiners on both inside rails where they come out of the frog. If you leave the metal frog of the electrofrog turnout unpowered, you will open the current path to the potential short circuit, and prevent it from ever happening. 
The only drawback to this simple method is that with the frog unpowered, short locos, with only a few wheels to pick up power, may stall on the frog. Since you plan to use locos with all-wheel pickup, that shouldn't be a problem for you.
There is a way to prevent the possible short circuit, and also power the frog. It's called an "isolated" frog. Atlas code55 N-scale turnouts have isolated frogs right out of the box. I'm not sure if the Peco electrofrog does, or not. The way to test it would be first to look for small insulating gaps in all four rails that enter the frog. Using a multimeter, you can verify that the frog is not electrically connected to any other rail on the turnout. A last check would be to meter the point rail to the nearest stock rail. Ideally they should be connected on an isolated frog turnout. I build my own code55 N-scale turnouts as isolated frog turnouts, and I use DCC. This kind of turnout is ideal for DCC, it's the only type that is truly "DCC friendly." but remember any turnout, power routing (insulfrog) isolated frog (Atlas code55) or whatever frog, they all work with DCC or DC.
The file below titled "How I scratchbuild turnouts" explains the frog types, near the end. The other files contain lots of general info aimed at new modelers. You may find them helpful.

Code 80 and code55 track can be joined. Just shim up the code55 so that the rail tops are even with each other. I use Micro Engineering code55 flex track for all the visible track on my layout. It is the best looking track available, but it's expensive. However my hidden track is Atlas code80. It's way oversize, butt ugly, but it works and it's cheaper. Atlas code55 N-scale track is OK. The tie length and spacing are much better than their ugly code80 stuff. It has oversize spikes that won't handle old N-scale cars with the deep flanged "pizza cutter" wheels, but newer cars have low profile flange wheels, and they are available separately if you need to change any out. The Atlas code55 N-scale turnout likewise is OK though in my opinion, it's a little weak and requires gentle handling. Peco turnouts are very high quality, and ruggedly constructed. Most importantly they almost never cause derailments. If you buy your turnouts (as opposed to making them like I do) I strongly recommend buying Peco. Peco also makes high quality flex track. They are a British company and some of their track is modeled on British full-size track. They do make North American track too. Finally there's Micro Engineering. Fantastic closer-to scale looks. Not as flexible as other brands and pricey. The small spikes look great and will work with "pizza cutter" wheels, or low profile. Those small spikes do require a little care. The rail can come out of the spikes if you handle the track roughly. I agree with your choice of code55. Code80 rail scaled up to real life size would be one foot tall. That's way bigger than any rail ever used on a real railroad.

Regards;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:

View attachment How I scratch build turnouts new(8).pdf


View attachment Where do I start (revised version).pdf


View attachment MODEL RAILROADING ON A BUDGET.pdf


View attachment Model Railroad Terminology 2.1.pdf


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## Duck52 (Jan 31, 2018)

Thank you both for your replies. I am one of those that likes to measure twice and cut once. Plus I tend to hold myself to a pretty high standard when it come to work quality, so I am trying to resolve as many issues as I can before I lay any track. I am sure there are more questions to come.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

If you want to go with fine scale Peco code 55 N turnouts you’ll also have to use their track. This is because the track is actually taller than code 55 but the excess is ‘buried’ in the ties so won’t join up or be compatible with Atlas code 55.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Adatpability*



Cycleops said:


> If you want to go with fine scale Peco code 55 N turnouts you’ll also have to use their track. This is because the track is actually taller than code 55 but the excess is ‘buried’ in the ties so won’t join up or be compatible with Atlas code 55.


 Cycleops is right about Peco "buried" rail. It is possible to cut and adapt the track so that it can be joined to a different brand. If you decide to use Peco code55 turnouts, find out if the rails of the turnouts are buried too. (cycleops may be able to tel us) If they are, then you would either have to use Peco flex track, as he suggests, or adapt the Peco turnout's rail ends to fit into conventional rail joiners so the turnouts can be connected to another brand of flextrack.

Regards;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## Brakeman Jake (Mar 8, 2009)

On my Peco C55 layout,I've installed a few Atlas C80 crossings that have angles that Peco doesn't offer and they fit quite nicely.Only a light filing of the Atlas railheads was required to match heights.

To me,function goes first.look...well...too bad for the rivet counter.....


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

The code55 turnouts are the same. IMHO it’s just easier to settle on one make or the other.


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## Duck52 (Jan 31, 2018)

Thank you Cycleops.
Just getting started and suffering from an information overload. Already have a file box full of notes and how to magazines. It is pretty easy to begin to over think things. I am going to order a few Peco turnouts, some Peco flex, a little rolling stock and a model or two and start fiddling.
By the way I am not complaining. I am having a ball and I already have 3 or 4 friends jealous of my new/old hobby. They are spending a lot of time on you-tube lately.
One last question (for a while). As I don't have a viable Hobby shop near me I am looking for recommendations for reputable online suppliers.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

There are a number of reputable on line dealers
in model trains.

One of the favorites is Model Train Stuff.

https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/?ne...MIwPuzn-K82QIVB7bACh2GXAccEAAYASAAEgIjJ_D_BwE

Google HO model train dealers and you'll find many
more. Some of our members will also suggest
firms they have used.

Don


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

No probs Duck52. If you want a recommendation for DCC controller I’d go for the NCE PowerCab, great if you’re starting out, easy to use, expandable and a bit of a bargain to boot!


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

Cycleops said:


> No probs Duck52. If you want a recommendation for DCC controller I’d go for the NCE PowerCab, great if you’re starting out, easy to use, expandable and a bit of a bargain to boot!


I'll second that opinion!


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