# Lionel 1120 engine issue



## dlkeys (Apr 23, 2018)

I'm digging into my Grandfathers Lionel collection and have encountered a problem with the first engine I pulled out; a Lionel 1120 scout. I oiled, lubricated, and cleaned it up. It is running fine except that occasionally when running over a switch (I have the newer fastrack-variety manual switch) the front end derails in a shower of sparks. I found the Lionel repair manual pages online and everything looks right. However there seems to be a lot of play in the front truck. The front truck rivet and spring are attached, but perhaps it needs to be tightened somehow? 

Has anyone encountered this problem? or has some wisdom on this subject?

Thanks,

Dave


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## Volphin (Dec 7, 2015)

I'm no postwar expert, but you may need to remove the spring and stretch it out slightly. This will increase the downward force of the pilot truck. Also make sure the truck swing feely and is not binding up.


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

That has been and was a problem for several of my postwar engines with the single axle front truck. These trucks are very light. Volphin is correct about the springs, just make sure they are not broken, it won't help to stretch them because you may deform them. Unless you have a rivet press it is very hard to replace the spring. Part 1120-10 and 11 above.

My solution was to measure the gauge between each wheel, use a caliper. Many of the postwar axles were gapped to be narrow which made them loose fitting between rails. I found that increasing the gap made them less likely to bounce on the switch frog and power rail. Use a small gear puller.

Additionally, make sure all of your track is tight, without gaps between sections.


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## BWA (Jun 16, 2012)

I just glue a rare earth magnet to the bottom of the truck.....

Something around 2x10x20mm usually works.....

Works great, and, easily undo-able without damaging/altering the loco......


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## dlkeys (Apr 23, 2018)

Thank you for the replies. I'll give the suggestions a try and let you know how it goes.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I have replaced springs without any riveting. I just screw them off and on like a screw. I use a dental pick and only the smallest diameter needs persuasion. I do it mostly on center rollers for the old tenders. Over at other sites members have exchanged the front ends for the two axle variety. Weight would help and make sure the axle is straight.


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## dlkeys (Apr 23, 2018)

Wood said:


> That has been and was a problem for several of my postwar engines with the single axle front truck. These trucks are very light. Volphin is correct about the springs, just make sure they are not broken, it won't help to stretch them because you may deform them. Unless you have a rivet press it is very hard to replace the spring. Part 1120-10 and 11 above.
> 
> My solution was to measure the gauge between each wheel, use a caliper. Many of the postwar axles were gapped to be narrow which made them loose fitting between rails. I found that increasing the gap made them less likely to bounce on the switch frog and power rail. Use a small gear puller.
> 
> Additionally, make sure all of your track is tight, without gaps between sections.


I have a caliper but not a small wheel puller. Would this be what i need? Mascot Precision Tools Wheel/Gear Puller-Adjustable


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

dlkeys said:


> I have a caliper but not a small wheel puller. Would this be what i need? Mascot Precision Tools Wheel/Gear Puller-Adjustable



That is perfect! With Post War you may use this again in the future. There is only one left and I need to replace mine. I'll check back another day.

The nice thing about Post War trains is the ability to repair your equipment. When I moved on to the modern era and pulled the hood off a new engine, it was all I could do to get the hood back on.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I use a set of forks, just putty knives with a groove, cut to fit under the wheel. Just suspended it over a gap in a vise and tap the axle in to widen the gap.

Too much? Rest the axle on a plate and with a socket, tap the wheel in. Try not to bend the axle.


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

T-Man to the rescue with the Poor Man’s cheapo version......LOL. Actually, the simple things do work the best. Sometimes you have to think outside the proverbial BOX, but I have never seen the Box either.


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## dlkeys (Apr 23, 2018)

Thanks for all of the help. I used a small magnet and spread the front wheels a bit and all is well. The engine takes off like a rocket. I'll have to be careful or it will end up airborne or stuck in a wall. :laugh:

Now onto the 1666!


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## Wood (Jun 9, 2015)

I am glad that worked out for you. There is a ton of advice readily available for the 1666 and before you know it, you will become the resident expert, giving out advice. :appl::appl:


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