# 3r-Plastics O ties



## seabilliau (Dec 12, 2011)

Anyone ever try 3r-Plastic's O ties?

http://3r-plastics.com/

Looks like an inexpensive way to update regular O gauge. I did a search on the site but nothing came up in the search. I saw their add in OGRR.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I've seen them on a layout, look just like the pictures on the site. I've contemplated firing up my big saw and making a ton of wooden ones. You can bulk stain them and slip them under the track. For a reasonable sized layout, those 3R-Plastics ones would get a bit expensive.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

If you want ties, consider tubular track on real wood. You need a small nail with an oversize head and spike away!!!!!!!!! Get rid of the metal ties altogether. It would make a very unique layout. I wonder how a switch would look???????


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Hmmm, 500 pieces gets you through ~80 pieces of O27 track (figuring 6 a track). That's a nice little layout for $80. Or a bunch of scrap lumber and 20 minutes on the table saw. Hmmm . . .

Looks like an experiment for the post-holiday season.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I've seen several guys here cut "ties" out of foam-core poster board, paint them black, and then slip them under the rails. Easy, simple, cheap. Something to consider.

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

It would be just as easy, and maybe even easier, to whack them out with a table saw. The bonus is that they'd be pretty robust. You can bulk stain them with a large plastic bag.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Use some oak scrap and I bet the grain pattern might even look right.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I don't know about the ties in your neck of the woods, but they're basic black around here.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Ok - oak scrap + some stain. And they'll be incredibly durable.

Tough crowd around here.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

We're pussycats, face it.


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## seabilliau (Dec 12, 2011)

I like that idea of cutting them myself. I would really prefer something that resembles real track vice just bare rails. Other than an "older style" look with the tubular, is there any real benefit from the non-tubular (graves, atlas, fastrak) over the old stuff?


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## dbyll (Oct 22, 2011)

I bought wood off of ebay listing under railroad ties for my 027 track, less than I could cut it for. I than spray painted it flat black. You just give it a lite coat of paint and it comes out just great. Here is another trick I did. I took and made a mountain out of thin styrofoam and the used expanding insulation foam and just built up layers to form a mountain. The natural curves and voids after painting green and mix in some browns, looks really great. Take and add a couple of pine trees and its done. I made mine into a coal mine by just cutting a entrance and adding so 1/4" wood to make timber support going into the mine.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, I can cut it for free, and I have lots of scrap wood, but if it's cheap enough it's probably worth it just to buy them.


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## Big Mike (Dec 2, 2011)

T-Man said:


> If you want ties, consider tubular track on real wood. You need a small nail with an oversize head and spike away!!!!!!!!! Get rid of the metal ties altogether. It would make a very unique layout. I wonder how a switch would look???????


what if you could cut out the gruve the same shape as the rail, then just remove the old metal ties and push on the new ties,this would keep every thing in alinement, you could still spike, them just for looks, I know I said I use and like fastrack, but I also love to come with new ideas and projects.

..............Mike


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well Mike, it would look like a hell of a lot of work!


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## Big Mike (Dec 2, 2011)

seabilliau said:


> I like that idea of cutting them myself. I would really prefer something that resembles real track vice just bare rails. Other than an "older style" look with the tubular, is there any real benefit from the non-tubular (graves, atlas, fastrak) over the old stuff?


 YES!! but fastrack is still tubular,and so is the new MTH track .but I like lionel fastrack JMO.


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## Big Mike (Dec 2, 2011)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Well Mike, it would look like a hell of a lot of work!


 well yea, but a router and a table saw could do it ,.............hell,I don't know, just tring to be helpfull.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

I definitely know when I'm doing after my Christmas trip now. 

I think I have a thin kerf blade for my table saw. That should be able to cut a groove in which the ties can sit. If it's thin enough, maybe adding a couple of degrees of angle on either side of the cut would give a channel to slide the tie into. I like the idea of using a router for that as well. It would just mean finding or having the right bit made. 

Hmmmm. . .


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Oh, I could cut the ties on my table saw, it's just the effort of hand nailing the rails at the proper spacing on them sounds like a lot of work! I think I'd go the traditional way and just use the homemade ties between the factory ties.


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## inxy (Dec 10, 2010)

Below is pic of 3R ties on my layout. Used super glue to attach to track. With gentle handling the glue will hold.











B


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## seabilliau (Dec 12, 2011)

Thanks for pic Inky. I just bought some more Fastrack pieces as that is all the hobby shop had. I think I'm putting a moratorium on myself until after the holidays as I can see how this the prob the worst time of year to find deals on o gauge since so many who only put up their train when the tree is out are looking for more track. I don't want to end up with too much Fastrack, but then again it's good to have for whenever I would want a temp set up... Say around the tree at Xmas. :/).


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## Big Mike (Dec 2, 2011)

erkenbrand said:


> I definitely know when I'm doing after my Christmas trip now.
> 
> I think I have a thin kerf blade for my table saw. That should be able to cut a groove in which the ties can sit. If it's thin enough, maybe adding a couple of degrees of angle on either side of the cut would give a channel to slide the tie into. I like the idea of using a router for that as well. It would just mean finding or having the right bit made.
> 
> Hmmmm. . .


the reason I said cut a gruve for the rails to fit in is because I think it is hard to keep rail alignment correct if you just spike them,unless you make, or buy a rail fixture to help keep every thing lined up while you spike it,

I am not good with wood ,but I think the router bit is called a "dove tail" you just have to find one small enough..............mike


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Yup, I was thinking of a dove tail, but finding one small enough will be a challenge. I'd also like to find a something like a T bit that would allow the rail to slot in properly. Again, I don't think they make one small enough. Ya never know what you can whip up on the lathe and some high speed steel. We'll see.


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## Big Mike (Dec 2, 2011)

erkenbrand said:


> Yup, I was thinking of a dove tail, but finding one small enough will be a challenge. I'd also like to find a something like a T bit that would allow the rail to slot in properly. Again, I don't think they make one small enough. Ya never know what you can whip up on the lathe and some high speed steel. We'll see. [/Q
> 
> I was thinking maybe Drimel or some company like that might make that bit
> also ,check out www. Micro-mark .com you may find it there.........mike


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I think finding a 1/4" dovetail router bit would be easy, I have one in my bit cabinet.  The T bit might be a bit trickier in that size, I have one that's 1/2".


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## Don F (Dec 5, 2015)

I use oak skids to make ties for my loads, both new ties and scrap ties. If using them for tubular track, I would use a softer wood to make it easier to spike down. There are spikes available for hand laid track. When I cut my ties, I cut the lengths using a table saw with a special insert with a narrow kerf so the wood doesn't fall through. Then I use a band saw for the other dimension. I clamp a straight edge to the table, and with a sharp blade, I can cut a few pieces at one time. To cut for length, I use a power miter saw with a wide stop clamped to the back rest to cut several pieces at a time.
To stain, I use a dark walnut stain. I use one bucket with holes drilled in the bottom that fits inside another bucket with the stain. I place the ties in the smaller bucket, and drop it into the larger stain filled bucket. Then raise the smaller bucket to let the excess stain drip into the larger one. This makes for fast work of an otherwise tedious project. When I stain ties for a gondola tie load, I first glue and clamp the ties to a piece of luan plywood cut to fit the car. when the glue is dry, I use a Lamp Black and water mixture as a stain, and brush it on liberally. Lamp Black is a powder dye used for coloring mortar. It is a great stain for doing weathered wood building projects, as the color can be controlled by the amount of dye in the water. The mixture does have to be stirred frequently, as the dye tends to separate from the water. This process requires a flat coat sealer, as the die will rub off when handled.
Don


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