# Tyco Layout Exapnder System in HO True-Track!



## wiley2012 (Dec 8, 2012)

A while back, I got myself a copy of the old Tyco Layout Expander System instruction manual:









I've actually been setting up my HO-scale layout using the track plans designed in said manual, but since I'm not going to bother with hunting down any worthless Tyco brass track sections, I thought I'd do it in Atlas True-Track! Currently, I have it set up as pictured here:








Except I'm using Atlas's terminal joiners instead of terminal rerailer sections, and I am getting an Atlas Selector switch to function as the blocking controller (this track plan is designed so that you can have two trains on the layout, by parking one on a section of track that isn't receiving any power and controlling the other train on the inner loop, or some other way of switching them around. I also have Atlas plastic joiners to function as mentioned insulating joiners.









This description may give you an idea on how it's supposed to be set up.









For THIS method, I'm going to change the parts list to reflect on the Atlas versions...

2 - Left-hand switches (manual might be fine)
2 - Bumpers (they come as a two-pack anyway, or should I just get the Code-83 bumper thingies to put on the track instead?
1 - Remote control uncoupling set (I might scratch this idea for now, as I am moving up to knuckle-couplers and this was written back when horn-hook couplers were the norm.)
1 - 6" straight track
4 - 18" radius curved track (four comes in one pack anyway!)
2 - Curved terminal rerailer sections (again, terminal joiners may work, or even one "regular" 9" straight terminal section of True-Track...)
1 - 9" straight track
1 - Atlas connector (The Selector may do the trick.)
2 - Insulated rail joiners
1 - Uncoupling ramp (A Kadee one might do)
40' - Hook-up wire
1 - 1/3-18" radius curve track
1 - Straight rerailer (this could possibly be subbed with a regular straight track section.)









As for track section 49, that would obviously have to be detached from the roadbed, as that is doable with True-Track.









The parts list for this stage (True-Track version) would include:

2 - Left-hand switches
12 - 18" radius curved track
1 - Log dump set (I already have one from Life-Like that doesn't come with a track section like Tyco's did.)
2 - Insulated rail joiners
1 - Power pack (I do have a couple extra Life-Like power packs handy...)
20' Double-lead wire

The Siding No. 7 is optional, for Tyco's old coal unloading/trestle set.

From what I read, for the "blocking" setup, only one terminal joiner would be needed on the section of track to have blocking. You typically only need both terminal joiners for when you want to actually control the train. (This is currently how my layout is powered.)


I do have to admit, this does make for a rather interesting experiment!


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## THE TYCO MAN (Aug 23, 2011)

I got a copy of those myself! Love to see stage 4 be built or laid out.


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## wiley2012 (Dec 8, 2012)

OK, I ran into a small problem when I got the Atlas selector thingy.









This is how I set it up, (the wires are temporarily like that until I can get it properly going and drill them in), and I followed the plans on how to set up the track with the plastic insulator joiners. Because I don't have terminal track sections, I'd use terminal joiners, and figured I would only need one terminal joiner for each loop, following this diagram:









If the switch is in the center or at "B," the locomotive will run on part of the layout, but it will not run on any of the "blocks" shown here...








What would be the proper way to set this up using the Atlas selector and terminal rail joiners (instead of the Tyco Blocking Control switch and terminal rerailer sections.)


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## THE TYCO MAN (Aug 23, 2011)

2 wires run to the DC terminals, then 2 to the rails and 2 more wires either go to the track or DC terminals.


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## wiley2012 (Dec 8, 2012)

OK, then I guess I'll also get a second pair of terminal joiners for the other block.

So would this mean the the main terminal wires from the power pack go to the selector, and then run all three terminal joiner wires from the selector? I'm still kinda new at this blocking...


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## THE TYCO MAN (Aug 23, 2011)

Honestly, I would goto the Atlas website and get the diagram.


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## biobug1 (Dec 19, 2020)

What would be the parts list for Bachman EZ track to build the basic expander? I have 18-9” straits,2 -9” strait terminals,lh and rh remote switches,16-22” radius curves,17-18”radius curves,2-899b cabs,a 44541 kit with 4-2” straits,2-Tyco GP20’s and a Tyco Alco 630. should I use both cabs with a DPDT,or 1 cab with a SPDT switch?This is my first model and I don’t want any shorts.


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## wiley2012 (Dec 8, 2012)

biobug1 said:


> What would be the parts list for Bachman EZ track to build the basic expander? I have 18-9” straits,2 -9” strait terminals,lh and rh remote switches,16-22” radius curves,17-18”radius curves,2-899b cabs,a 44541 kit with 4-2” straits,2-Tyco GP20’s and a Tyco Alco 630. should I use both cabs with a DPDT,or 1 cab with a SPDT switch?This is my first model and I don’t want any shorts.


Hmm, if you want to build it following the main plan without any gaps (i.e. using DCC), all you would need are 18 18"-radius curves, 15 9" straights (any can be substituted with a terminal rerailer or the dual crossing gates), the two 2" straights, two LH and RH (standard/remote) turnouts. I actually built that basic layout expander plan using E-Z Track and it came out pretty well!
If you want to follow the same blocking wiring plan as in the Layout Expander System manual, I suggest you get three of the 18" curve terminal rerailers, and you can use a single-throttle power pack combined with the TYCO No. 907 Blocking Controller, and it comes with insulated rail joiners so you don't have to cut gaps in the rails, though installing them can be a little tricky because the existing metal joiners to be replaced require a LOT of force to be removed when it comes to E-Z Track. Then you can just follow the instructions as shown in the Layout Expander System manual on here (either the 1975 or 1977 version would suffice).


Tyco Information - Literature Page 10



You can wire the "Simplimatic" plug for each block terminal track section with one wire connected to one of the Blocking Controller wires and the other cut off or not connected to any power source. Alternatively, you can skip the need for two curved terminal rerailer sections and instead get a pair of terminal rail joiners, with one providing power to each block. That is what I did on one of my old layouts that used the TYCO Blocking Controller, and it did the trick very nicely. But you'd still need to remove one of the existing E-Z Track joiners, as I mentioned before, but it can be done.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

wiley2012 said:


> OK, I ran into a small problem when I got the Atlas selector thingy.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


wiley2012;

You (and Atlas) are using an old DC control system called "common rail."
It looks like the outer rail is "common" to all the various blocks of track in your photo.
The inner rail is the one you have divided into electrical blocks, by using insulated rail joiners at both ends of the block, in that inner rail.
Since a train needs to have power connected to both rails in order to run, there needs to be some way of connecting (and disconnecting) those insulated sections of inner rail to power. That's what the selector does.
Electrically, the selector is simply four separate SPDTc/o (Single Pole Double Throw center/off ) switches.

The common rail should be connected to one of the "DC", or "track" screw terminals on your power pack. It looks like you have done that with your black wires.
The other "DC" or "track" screw terminal of your power pack should be connected to one of the input terminals of your selector. (The one in the far upper right corner of the selector with a screw missing.)

Finally, a separate wire should be connected to each of the screw terminals above the green switches of the selector. (you have the first two labeled 1 & 2) Each of these four wires is a "block feeder" and should be connected to one of the four sections of inner rail that you have installed insulating joiners in.

To turn on a block, just move the green switch for that block up. If you want to "park" a train in one of the blocks, move that block's green switch to the center position, which is "off."

Later, if you add a second power pack, one of it's DC/track output screw terminals can also be connected to the same "common rail" with more black wire. You would connect it's other DC/track output to the other input terminal of the selector, the one in the lower left corner.

Then, you can run two trains independently. One train will be controlled by the left-hand power pack (the one you have now) and the other train will be controlled by the right-hand power pack (the new one)
The "Atlas Selector" then selects which of the two power packs a given block of track will be connected to.
Moving a green switch up connects that block to the left-hand power pack. Moving a green switch down, connects that switch's block to the right-hand power pack. Moving a green switch to the center position disconnects that block from either of the two power packs. That block will be turned "off", and you can "park" a train there.

This is the classic "Dual Cab Control" system of controlling more than one train with DC power. The only twist is the use of a common rail, but operationally, it works the same. The file below discusses common rail, and other control systems.

hope that helps;

Traction Fan 🙂


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