# Opinions on First Layout Design



## patrick.b (Mar 8, 2017)

Hello,

I recently moved into a house and I am starting to plan out an HO railroad. The basement already has a finished room that is perfect. I took detailed measurements of the room and the doorways to ensure my design would fit.

The idea of the layout is based on a fictitious past where the narrow gauge railroad on the Hawaiian island of Oahu was purchased by the Southern Pacific in 1947 (when the OR&L went out of business). In order to better utilize the acquisition, the Southern Pacific standard gauged the railroad. This allows me to use cheaper and more readily available standard gauge prototypes while still modeling Hawaii.

The layout is meant to operate as a realistic representation of the entire railroad on Oahu with point to point operations. There will also be a hidden run around at the far end of the railroad to allow for circular running when desired. 

The track has a minimum radius of 18" with #4 switches. While the design below is based on Atlas sectional track, it will most likely be built exclusively with flex track to ensure nice easements.

Any suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated. This project probably wont start for a while as I have other house projects to work on first.

http://imgur.com/a/o4b7a


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## Bwells (Mar 30, 2014)

I would do everything possible to increase the radii of your track by eliminating a couple of the peninsulas. You are looking at some serious benchwork as drawn but with tiny aisles. You did say it is narrow gauge so your plan maybe fine.


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## Nikola (Jun 11, 2012)

I am the tight curve bigot. Benchwork is easy and 18" curves give you more train action in the available space. Plus, your era/geo paradigm would make that a slam dunk.

I acknowledge that I am in the minority here in my favorable opinion of layouts with tight curves. It's not all about Big Boys. IMHO.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

You are fortunate to have so much space to use, please
don't waste it with 18" radius curves on your main lines.
You'll be glad you took the extra time to rework what needs
to be in order to achieve a minimum of 22" curves, especially
on your main line. If you use only smaller locos and shorter
cars it can work, but larger locos and longer cars not only
can have difficulty negotiating tight radius, they look
strange in operation as the car ends protrude outward
and the inside overhangs the track.

I assume you are aware you have at least 3 reverse loop
situations. That's great, they add to the operating
possibilities, but you will have to have controllers
for those. The Digitrax PM 42 is a device with 4 sections,
each of which can be an automatic reverse loop controller
for less money than buying 3 individual controllers.

When you decide on your 'final' design, draw it using
Red for right rail, black for left rail. (or other colors)
This will help you avoid short circuits due to reverse
loops. Especially look at the crossovers in the upper
middle section. They often must be wired contrary
to intuition.

Don


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I think everyone is getting overly focused on turn radius. Let me redirect a bit.

First of all, Nikola's tight turn bigotry )) brings up a valid point. 18" curves aren't bad in and of themselves, but only in relation to what you intend to run. For a railroad based in Hawaii, you're probably looking at short steam (4-6 drivers) and 4 axle diesel, plus shorter rolling stock, which will work just fine on 18" curves. If you're planning to run bigger stuff, then you'll want to check performance on the curves and turnouts you're contemplating.

Aisle width is also an important consideration, but only in relation to what you're going to do. If you don't plan to hold operating sessions with multiple operators, you can get buy with as little as 20". As soon as you add more than one person to the mix, though, you need passing space, and that really requires 36" minimum... if all the people there are good friends or veterans of the submarine navy. So, your operating philosophy is important to that decision.

Finally, it sounds like you have a good backstory for your layout, but looking at the track plan, it appears that the track is just randomly laid out, with the intent of maximizing mainline run. You might be better served identifying some key areas / scenes that you want to model, reproducing them as faithfully as you can, and then string the locations together into a cohesive whole. That could significantly alter your trackwork needs. 

You might also want to take a look at having one longer and wider peninsula going down the center of the room, with a scenic divider / backdrop in the middle. This should give you similar length, but with fewer curves and more aisle room.


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## patrick.b (Mar 8, 2017)

All, 

Thank you very much for your input.

I would like to reply to some of your concerns with some things I have in mind. Please don't stop my reply from continuing with criticisms. I haven't started this project, and I want to be sure I think through everything in detail.

Curve Radius:
This is a good and expected point to bring up. My intentions for this railroad are very similar to what CTValleyRR described. The steam locomotives will be smaller, with a 2-8-0 being the largest engine. Rolling stock will also be older smaller designs. I believe the smaller radius will provide the narrow gauge feel while the railroad is actually standard gauge.

Aisle Size:
At most I would anticipate myself and maybe one other family member operating at the same time. Because of this, I feel the 2 ft. aisles will be enough. 

Layout Design vs. Reality:
The layout is actually designed to resemble the entire OR&L railroad. Some towns were omitted for space but will likely be represented by small station stops.

Here is an updated drawing with some of the key locations called out. The other various sidings are for industries along the railroad which were plentiful.

http://imgur.com/a/jRUTJ


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