# Re-hab switches.



## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

I picked up 2 pairs of switches on ebay, along with 2 90 degree crossing, and a couple of UN-couplers.The switches were CRUSTY!!! Here's a picture of one of the pairs.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Blow by blow account. I pulled all the rails from the top of the switch, undid the bottom plates, and removed all the linkages for the frog. I punched out the frog and set it aside. I made sure the coil was working first before I went any further. Coil worked and the bulb lit up.After all the rails were removed I cleaned the switch face with alcohol and a toothbrush. After that came a polish with Pledge.I buffed all the rails with a brass brush on my dremel, and the rails that were too far gone, I replaced.Used my bright-boy to shine up the top of the rails.I put in new lens tape, red/green. Replaced all the rails and the frog. Turning the switch over I cleaned/buffed all electrical contacts, the coil plunger, the inside of the coil, and put the mess back together. Hit it with some power and baby, they snap!! Here's some pix.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

A few more..


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

End result. This pair of switches ARE NOT the same pair I pictured in the first post. These did look the same as the first pictures; dummy me forgot to take a before shot of them, so I pictured the other pair. Sorry..


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

I actually bought the lot just to have parts for my switches here, but after testing them and finding out the coils worked,etc, I decided to do some re-hab.. On 2 of the switches the frogs were frozen in place and would not move.


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## AmFlyerMike (Apr 6, 2013)

You are truly a Gilbert miracle worker! Wow. What an amazing transformation!


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## llskis (Apr 11, 2013)

flyernut: Nice Re-Hab!! Larry


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Thanks all. I just finished my wife chores,( doing the dishes, and vacuuming),lol, so now I'm heading down to the basement and fiddle around with those 2 real NASTY switches.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Nice job indeed. 
They look like new. :smilie_daumenpos:

Just a suggestion, when you post do you see the paper clip up top in the posting box?
If you do, after you upload your pictures minimize the attachment box and go back to the paper clip and click on it then click insert all. The pictures will all come out like this instead of having to click on each picture to view it.
If you don't see the paper clip up top in the posting box you have to change something in your CP, an easy fix.

It is a lot easier to view someones pictures without having to go back and forth clicking each attachment.

They will all come out like this in your post, you can then add words above (or below) the picture explaining each one.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Gotcha Ed, thanks for the tip. I will try it out as I have the 2 real nasty pairs of switches just about done!!


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## Magne-rail (Oct 4, 2013)

Tools of the trade! Alcohol, Toothbrush, dremel with wire brush, polish and a bright-boy! LOL
Good job!

Sal


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Magne-rail said:


> Tools of the trade! Alcohol, Toothbrush, dremel with wire brush, polish and a bright-boy! LOL
> Good job!
> 
> Sal


Correct on every item buddy!!!!!


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## daveh219 (Sep 16, 2012)

Flyer...makes me want to grab by switches and refurb them again. well done...and Big Ed...thanks for that tip. I was curious on how to get that done..

dAve


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Ok, I got the second pair finished. These were the tough ones.. I had to replace much of the track, and I also had to remove and polish the metal tabs that hold the track unto the switch face, as these also conduct the current for the rails. Before and after..


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

I tried the paper clip icon thingy but it didn't work.. Maybe I have something turned off Ed?


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

testing


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

I did something right for a change!!!


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

I've tried and still can't get th ehang of that paperclip thing....one day.

WOW, they turned out great. As I have about 6,000,000 switches to do myself, I'd like to ask a few questions. Do the rails just slide out for cleaning and if so, do they slide in and remain tight afterward? How do you remove the frog - I saw you said "punch out" -- what does that mean? Is there a clip that holds it in the bottom plate? You also said you replaced sme rails - did you have these on hand from other switches for parts only or did you make them?


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

After you upload the pictures and you made sure that they uploaded, just minimize that upload box.

Then go back to where you are typing the words and click on the paper clip a second time, after you click on it you will see insert...or insert all just click on that and they will show. 

You did it once, it is not that hard as the only extra thing you have to remember is to go back a second time to the paper clip and select insert. If you don't click on the paper clip a second time they will just be in your post like you were doing.

It is a lot easier for everyone to look at pictures that way, especially if you have a lot. 

After you have them in your post box you can add words to each picture if you want.

(attach#0000)

Each picture there you will see the above or something like it. Just add the words to each one.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> I've tried and still can't get th ehang of that paperclip thing....one day.
> 
> WOW, they turned out great. As I have about 6,000,000 switches to do myself, I'd like to ask a few questions. Do the rails just slide out for cleaning and if so, do they slide in and remain tight afterward? How do you remove the frog - I saw you said "punch out" -- what does that mean? Is there a clip that holds it in the bottom plate? You also said you replaced sme rails - did you have these on hand from other switches for parts only or did you make them?


Ok, first things first.....You must bend over the retaining clips that hold the track in place.There are special little "cuts" in the track sections so they will not back out of place when you remove tracks from them. You'll see what I mean when you try and get the track out. Have no fear, it will come out without damage.....The "tabs" must be bent back on the rail lower edge, just where they were originally.This is where it gets tricky. If you try and bend the tabs back after cleaning/replacing them on the switch face,you'll find that you're bending them and not tightening them onto the rail. The trick is to use a backer on the bottom of the switch, directly below the tab you are trying to bend over and tighten. I use a finger/knurled nut from a switch to position it under the switch face and directly under the tab. On some of the tabs you'll have to guess where the tabs are, but once you see the tab straighten out somewhat, you'll know you're under the correct tab. I use a flat-bladed screw driver to bend over the tabs.... To remove the frog, turn the switch upside down and you'll see a hole and a pin bottom where the frog is located. It will be in a dime-sized extrusion. Just use a small punch and drive out the pin with a hammer. Be careful you do not lose the pin and copper SPRING WASHER!.That spring washer wants to only go in one direction, the washer has a bend in it on all four corners. You want the tension on the frog once the pin is re-inserted after clean-up.The pin will bottom out,but the spring washer will keep the frog snugly in place....Now to the rails.If you look at a stock flyer switch, you'll see a slight indentation on the rails where the frog meets the rail side.When the frog is thrown "straight", the frog will nestle in the indentation on the inside rail.When thrown to the turn out side, the frog end will settle into the indentation on the outer rail. Check your switch, you'll see what I mean..I use a regular stock straight rail and a regular curve when I replace any rails. The trick is you have to duplicate that indentation so you will not have any derailments.What I do is put the rail in place, and mark it with a marker, where the frog ends meet the rail, or just use the old rail to get the correct position.I then put the rail in a vise, and using light tamping strokes, pound the rail into a slight indentation, much like the original rail. You must have this indentation, otherwise, the frog end on the opposite end will not line-up correctly with that little black triangle piece of plastic/bakelite.Once I have the indentations made, I go back over the frog and sharpen the skinny ends on the end. This makes sure that everything is lining up..Just study one of your switches and you'll see everything I mentioned. On that frog "skiiny" side, if you take a left-turnout and look at the frog, the "skinny" ends will be on the left side of the frog, where they go into the indentations on the rails. This I sharpen up for better fit, as it's hard to get that indentation just right, like at the factory. I wish I was better on the computer as I could draw arrows on the pictures to show you what/where I mean.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

On that big blown up fuzzy picture, you can make out the tabs. If you bend them straight, they will come right out the backside, and you can then clean up the areas where they will make electrical contact with the rails. I had to do this as there was so much corrosion and rust on them, I was afraid I would lose electric current going to the rails. It's a fun project, and I was doing one switch a night.


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