# New You Tube video



## flyguy55 (Apr 20, 2015)

A liittle on the korny side but an informative video for the novice.Toy Trains 101 cleaning American Flyer Trains Postwar by TSG.About hour long covers general cleaning and dissassembly of postwar Flyer.Some interesting stuff but I will note he uses CRC fast drying electronic spray which is very flammable.I use CRC in blue can which is not and gives you more time to clean.All in all a good step for those less informed bout Flyer...


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

I use CRC, NON-flammable cleaner, but it doesn't like knuckle couplers.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

My CRC Is flammable but plastic safe. Mine is called QD Electronic Cleaner. Its the only
one my Walmart had. When I bought it I thought all CRC was the same. They are not.


Was there suppose to be a link to the video.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I know my CRC is flammable because I had a puddle of it on a tender base and I lit
it up. Yep, mine is flammable. No harm done just a bit startled. LOL. I just don't light
it up anymore. DUH !!!.


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## drbobderrig (Nov 12, 2018)

need a link to the utube video...........

dr bob


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## drbobderrig (Nov 12, 2018)

*found it*






dr bob


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Thanks Dr Bob.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Just watched the whole video. Good video. Great for beginners with maintenance of AF
steamers. I did learn one new thing. The hair dryer trick to get rid of the mold release agent (the white stuff on wheels and couplers). It looks too easy . Thanks to flyguy55
for mentioning the video and Dr Bob for the video link.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

One thing I would add to video that was not stressed in the video was to remove
the smoke tube before you try to remove body from the chassis. That is something I
learned from my Master Builder Guru flyernut. If you don't remove smoke tube first you can damage the smoke tube or even damage the smoke box top plate that the tube
screws into. I did break a plastic tube before I learned. Plus body can be removed and reinstalled much easier with tube removed.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

mopac said:


> One thing I would add to video that was not stressed in the video was to remove
> the smoke tube before you try to remove body from the chassis. That is something I
> learned from my Master Builder Guru flyernut. If you don't remove smoke tube first you can damage the smoke tube or even damage the smoke box top plate that the tube
> screws into. I did break a plastic tube before I learned. Plus body can be removed and reinstalled much easier with tube removed.


I noticed they removed the smoke tube just about last, that's the FIRST thing you want to do because you'll forget about it, and when you're trying the remove the chassis, and get p+++ed off, you'll break the tube...On to the oil wick..if it's missing I cut a piece of felt and replace it in the hole. You don't want crude getting in there.. Tender wheels I use a bright boy to clean the wheels, not a q-tip....if you're going to all that trouble with the e-unit, just remove the drum and polish it...don't put oil in the smoke piston chamber, use grease, it will seal better...coupler dates are a little wrong.Link couplers were used until 1953 in the low end sets, but in 1954, all flyers had knuckle couplers..In 1952 Gilbert put knuckle couplers on 2 of it's high end sets, the engines being a K325 and a K335, each set having knuckle couplers... Not trying to be a jerk, I just use the methods that seem to work the best, at least for me... I also had some help from a wonderful man, Don Roder, owner of GarGraves Trackage Corp, who is now passed. Super guy....


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## flyguy55 (Apr 20, 2015)

although the video has its flaws it is a good reference for those not that well versed in flyer repair.The only way you learn to swim is to jump in the water.Although the person in video calls himself an expert I would beg to differ.Some of the best Flyer repair video was put out by Precision Flyer Repair.I believe they are still available to view on you tube although he has chosen to disband his repair business.as we all know Flyer is a small niche in the toy train world so any anyone willing to spread the word is welcome....


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## drbobderrig (Nov 12, 2018)

*Lighter fluid*

will try that next time instead of rubbing oH to clean wheels. Also'
that grease they used the allows electrical current to go through...
I hate messing with forward reverse units.

dr bob


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## AFGP9 (Apr 8, 2015)

The blue can of CRC that was referenced is 26-6, in a blue can and can be found at Home Depot. It is plastic compatible and non-flammable. It does come in a smaller can than the QD electronic cleaner. I have both but I once I found the CRC 26-6, I think it works much better. Even though it is a smaller can, the price isn't. At least at my Home Depot. Expect to pay as much as you do for the QD.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

Thanks for the info.


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