# Older Lionel diesel maybe overheating.



## Scottcc (Dec 23, 2014)

I have a Lionel Santa-Fe with build date 8-57 marked on the housing. The plastic is a bit warped close to the motor. I think it is getting a bit too hot and feels warm after a few minutes of run time. The engine runs with a hum which can be heard on low power before enough power to move.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

If its the older duel motor version, witch I think it is, the grease is probably dried up in the motors causing it to work extra hard. It needs a good cleaning and lube. If you don't know how to do this , we can help. Its not that hard just a little time consuming.


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## Scottcc (Dec 23, 2014)

I only see one motor over one drive set of wheels. I took the shell off looked at few things and successfully caused the engine to go in reverse, it won't budge forward just hum.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

The E unit is a solenoid controlled switch that determines
forward or reverse. It operates
every time you give power to the loco. 

The contacts on this may be dirty and not
passing current to the motor for forward.

Operate the loco with the shell off and
check the operation of the solenoid by
giving it power on and off a few times.

Note: The lever shuts off power to the
solenoid. The loco will only go in the
direction it last ran in that position.
Move the lever to the opposite position
to restore the ability to reverse.

In addition to the suggestions you
already have, check the brushes and
commutator for dirt or wear.

Don


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## Scottcc (Dec 23, 2014)

I foundthe problem, looks like someone has been in here before repairing. It has a lot of cold soldering joints. I might have to rewire, a few things. I guess when I took the shell off it stressed a bad solder connection on the motor terminal.


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## Scottcc (Dec 23, 2014)

Upon further investigation, the wires may have been getting hot because they're bittle and break while I try tried to strip them.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'd rewire it and also do a PM. Remove the old grease and clean things up, then grease and oil properly with new lubricant.


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## Scottcc (Dec 23, 2014)

The 2 wires that I need to replace both connect to the same point on the motor terminal, one connects to one side of the relay and the other wire connects to opposite side of the relay. Am I correct to say that the relay provides a path to ground for motor? But how does that change polarity?


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

The relay (e-unit) doesn't actually provide a path to ground. The field windings of the motor are grounded. What the e-unit does is reverse the armature windings which are in series with the field winding and power from the track. See the blue and yellow wires Below:


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## Scottcc (Dec 23, 2014)

Thanks kenney, I understand now. All my wires are black, if the wires are suppose to be color coded then my engine has been rewired as suspected. I'm decent with a soldering iron but I haven't had any practice for years, my nephew is in avionics with the Air NG. I'll see if he can do it for me.


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## Scottcc (Dec 23, 2014)

I found a wiring diagram http://olsenstoy.com/cd/ho%5Cd200a.pdf
My engine is a 212 with build date 57 on the shell, however it is a Santa Fe not a 212 USMC of 58. I believe the diagram on the top right is correct for it, but it does have a horn, however not operating correctly. As far as I can tell it also has no battery.


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

If your engine only has two positions forward and reverse then I was wrong and the field is grounded by the E-unit as in your Olsen diagram. In that case you have a 'split' field, each half wound in a different direction allows the motor to spin in both directions with no neutral.

The wire colors in the diagram I posted were added by me for clarity. Some of the aftermarket E-unit fingers are wired with those colors.


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## Scottcc (Dec 23, 2014)

Thanks for the help and advice, it's nice to know what type of motor and E-unit I'm working with, 2 position reverse no neutral. The set belong to my Dad with three brothers, who took a toll on it's condition. The engine and dummy I'd give a C- and maybe a B for the passenger cars. 

I was only guessing about the ground provided by the E-unit, it made sense to me in the way it was wired. I don't want to come across as an electro-guru. By the way Merry Christmas.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

The horn needs the battery to work. Its a blessing that the battery is out of the engine. Of left in they leak and cause lots of damage! Merry Christmas!


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## callmeIshmael2 (May 28, 2012)

Scottcc said:


> I have a Lionel Santa-Fe with build date 8-57 marked on the housing. The plastic is a bit warped close to the motor. I think it is getting a bit too hot and feels warm after a few minutes of run time. The engine runs with a hum which can be heard on low power before enough power to move.


Scott, on this site, specifics are really important. For instance, Lionel put out several Santa Fe diesel units in the mid-to-late 50s. Some of them were lower budget single motored units with three digits like 204, 208. 212, etc. Also the O gauge single-motor #2243 and the double-motored #2383 or 2353s. They are all different in some respect. PLease post pix if you can when you ask for help - it helps members zero in on your solutions.


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## highvoltage (Apr 6, 2014)

callmeIshmael2 said:


> Scott, on this site, specifics are really important. For instance, Lionel put out several Santa Fe diesel units in the mid-to-late 50s. Some of them were lower budget single motored units with three digits like 204, 208. 212, etc. Also the O gauge single-motor #2243 and the double-motored #2383 or 2353s. They are all different in some respect. PLease post pix if you can when you ask for help - it helps members zero in on your solutions.


Ish, this is an almost 6 year old thread, and Scott hasn't been back here in over 3 years. Just letting you know.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I think I'll close this one.


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