# Simple command control for ceiling layout.



## deviltrigger529 (Jul 9, 2013)

Hey guys, I'm new here and I joined to ask a couple questions. I'm building an O gauge layout to go around the ceiling of my living room and I want to be able to basically supply constant track voltage to use the engines speed control and make it go pretty slow. It will be about 52 feet of track.

I was wondering if there were any options other than the full blown MTH DCS or Lionel TMCC systems that are $250+. I found the DCS Remote Commander set for $40 and was wondering if something that small could handle that big of a track. I'm not sure if it requires more juice the bigger the layout is, even if its just a simple 1 loop track. Of course I would have multiple lockons around the track to help support it, but about how far apart should the connections be? I've been researching the Remote Commander and I still can't tell if it just adjusts voltage for speed or if it always has full voltage.

Also, would say the z1000 be enough power for this or do I need more?

Thanks guys!


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## Don Trinko (Oct 23, 2012)

all IMO; You need a loco with speed control to go slow. You do not have to have TMCC for speed control, just a normal transformer.
Even if you had tmcc you would need speed control to go slow. Don


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The DCS Remote Commander will work fine for 50-60 feet of track. The Z1000 would also be sufficient. Obviously, if you use the DCS-RC, it'll be an MTH ProtoSound 2/3 locomotive you're running.

For 50 feet of track, I'd think 3-4 power drops should work fine, assuming the track is in good condition and the connections between sections are clean. Of course, I'd recommend using long sections for the strait runs to minimize track joints.


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## deviltrigger529 (Jul 9, 2013)

Ok sounds good John, thank you very much. I have a steam loco my grandfather gave me that is PS2 and I'm guessing any newer MTH engine is PS3? I was thinking of grabbing the GE Evolution engine eventually. And yes I will be using as many 30" pieces as I can lol.

So with the Remote Commander, do you even use the Z1000 control thing, or just plug in the power brick?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You just use the power brick. Truthfully, I recommend connecting the power brick directly to the track and using the DCS-RC in passive mode. That means you just connect it's outputs to the track, and it's powered that way. I don't like the 75 or more watts going through that little barrel connector, mine got pretty warm when I was trying it.

Obviously, since I have the full DCS now, the DCS-RC is in the closet as a test item. I use it to insure when I reset someone's locomotive to factory defaults that it'll work with the DCS-RC.


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## deviltrigger529 (Jul 9, 2013)

Do you cut off the barrel jack and add your own wires/connectors to connect to the track?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I normally buy the matching connector and build a jumper cable so I can keep the cable intact for later use or resale. That's what I did for my 180W Lionel PowerHouse supplies. Many folks cut the connector off, but you never know what the future brings...


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## deviltrigger529 (Jul 9, 2013)

That's true. I was looking into it more and I think I got it. Connect the power brick directly to the track, and then just run wires from the DCS RC to the track as well and thats passive mode? Or is there something else to it?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Nope, really as simple as that. When I want to test with it, I just connect the power brick to the track and then pull that little IR receiver out and connect it to the track.


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## deviltrigger529 (Jul 9, 2013)

Thats cool, thanks alot. If I'm going to run it passively then do I have to use an MTH supply, or would a Lionel CW-80 work also? If its not enough juice I won't worry about it but I figured I'd ask since I already have one of those. And if I can, I guess I would just keep the Lionel at almost full throttle to give the track its power and control from the remote commander?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Any old supply will work. While the CW-80 will probably work, some folks have had issues with those in a command environment. If you decided to use an older PW transformer, just include a fast acting circuit breaker or fuse in line with the track connection.


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## deviltrigger529 (Jul 9, 2013)

Well gonna give you guys a little update, I got the setup running this past weekend and just got a quick video up. I went to a new train shop, "Alloway Trains N Things" in south Jersey, very nice place and the owners are very nice! I picked up the Remote Commander from there and also got the track that I needed. One thing I didn't expect was getting scenery as well. A very good buddy of mine supplied me with an Z1000 and some wire and a terminal block and I was good to go.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nr6C219hrEQ&feature=share&list=UUkyi3IxYMjVBg9jAy5WQMDA

I did 5 power drops like you recommended and it is working flawlessly. Thanks for all the help John!

Now I do have one last question that I couldn't find anywhere with the Remote Commander. Can I control a different locomotive if I swap out my steam with a different engine? I plan on getting the GE Evolution Hybrid and I don't know if the Commander is now "attached" to the steam one or if it will control a different one when I put it on the track.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Looks great, you're now a member of the command/control club. 

The limitation of the DCS RC is that you can only run ONE locomotive at a time. However, you can have as many locomotives as you like and swap them onto the track one at a time and run them.

Of course, any locomotive being controlled with the DCS RC *MUST* be factory reset and never added to a full DCS system after the reset. If it's used with the full DCS, you need it to get another factory reset. Anyone with the full DCS system can do the factory reset.


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## deviltrigger529 (Jul 9, 2013)

Ok thats fine, I only plan on running one longer train/consist at a time anyway, I just wasn't sure if I could swap in another locomotive at any time and then control that one just fine. Also, I don't know if you saw in the video but I do have the transformer hooked up through the DCS RC but I have been checking to see if the transformer or DCS RC get warm at all and neither do, so I don't think I'm pulling enough juice to make that a concern. If I ever do though I did fine female barrel connector to bare wire adapters so I can always get one of those later on and directly power the track.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

As long as it works, no problem.  Looks great, we're awaiting the "finished" pictures.


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## deviltrigger529 (Jul 9, 2013)

I'm not sure when I'm going to be able to fully finish it, I'm going to wait for it to get nicer out so I can have a big fan pulling air thru the house so I don't die or get brain damage from the fumes lol. And since its the middle of summer I don't know when that will be. But I'm glad I have if functional now though. Thanks again for all the help.


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