# Loghtbulbs



## JMedwick (Feb 11, 2017)

Having added a number of new cars and engines in the past 6 months, I need more light bulbs. While I can find the one off incandescent bulbs for sale on Portlines and the like, I am considering switching to LED bulbs for those that aren’t visible. Has anyone done this? If so, were you happy with the result? If so, mind passing along a link to what bulbs you purchased?


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## JMedwick (Feb 11, 2017)

*Lightbulbs*

Grr... spelling...


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Your AF trains run on AC current. That means you'll
have to rectify it to produce DC for the LEDs. A simple
diode circuit would do that. You'd need a 470 ohm or more
resistor to reduced the voltage down to that LEDs use,
usually 1.5 to 3 volts. Maybe some of your S gauge
friends can give their experiences with this project.

Don


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## Mikeh49 (Sep 20, 2015)

Take a look at this:

http://stores.towncountryhobbies.com/leds/

No experience, though.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I like the idea of LED bulbs and have thought of doing them for headlights on my old AF locomotives. Problem is I am an electronic goof. You will have to convert some AC to DC
for the bulbs. As Don said you can do it with diodes. Can't help there but I am sure you can find a plan online. I have seen rectifiers on ebay. About 12.00. I would think the diodes would be cheaper. Watch which LEDs you get. There are warm and cool light LEDs. The warm have a golden hue. The cool have a bluish hue. Warm is what you want. I have converted some of my HO to LEDs. They are easy. DC current. I like the
LEDs much better.


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## 2genflyers (Jan 14, 2013)

I have converted all my AF locos to LED's as they draw SOOOO much less power. They are also cooler and last forever. I used a bridge rectifier (DF06M-ND) from Digi-key. I think they cost about $.50 a piece. I have also added a small capacitor and resistor to dim the output and eliminate flickering. The entire package costs about $1 each. All my passenger cars (25ish) have been converted to LED strips...which gives them uniform lighting from one end to the other....instead of the hotspot right in the middle and no light at either end. I have added blinking red LED's to the end of my streamlined observation cars. 470 ohm resistors will do the trick but I used 750 ohm in mine. The light output is a little more subtle. Just personal preference. 

TOTALLY agree with the color of the LED's. "Cool" LED's simply aren't natural looking. MUCH too blue. Warm LED's look great. Again...it's personal preference.


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## 2genflyers (Jan 14, 2013)

...And another note regarding headlight conversion.
I popped the original lenses out. Drilled out the center from the back using a drill bit which matches the LED diameter. Sorry can't remember the size. Then I glued the LED into the hole using Future Acrylic floor wax. That does a couple things. It acts as a glue to hold the LED perfectly in the center of the lens. It dries crystal clear. And while I was at it, i polished the front side of the lens and dipped it in Future also. When dry it is SUPER clear and produces a really nice even golden perfectly centered beam. No need to fabricate a bracket. It also eliminates the "spill" on the tracks directly underneath the loco which comes from the traditional mounting location of the incandescent bulbs. Often times there is more light UNDER the loco than out in front of it.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I found this while researching another subject.
It's a very ecomomical AC to DC rectifier for those
wanting to convert Amer. Flyer or Lionel lighting
to LED.

https://www.ebay.com/b/HO-Scale-Model-Railroad-Passenger-Cars-with-Double-Decker/122569/bn_69201063

Don


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## hjstr6 (Jul 12, 2019)

*Lightbulbs*

Has anyone had luck painting the red and green light bulbs for the remote switches?


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I bought some green and red bulbs for my turnout controllers. Some of my old bulbs
had paint peeling and they got so darn hot. I think my new bulbs are 24 volt bulbs instead of 18 volts. No where near as hot. Not as bright but fine. I do not remember what I paid for them but I am sure it was cheap. Not worth painting them yourself. Got them off ebay.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

I use all 24V bulbs in the lanterns and controllers. Mine run cooler and are almost as bright. I bought a lifetime supply from a vendor at a train show years ago. However, so far none of them have failed.


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## hjstr6 (Jul 12, 2019)

Thank you, I also bought some new 18 volt bulbs from PLL hobbies. They were not that expensive and not as bright. red was better than the green. After reading what could possibly happen to a bulb if you paint it scares me. I think I will buy new bulbs instead.


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## Kelpieflyer (Jan 9, 2012)

2genflyers said:


> I have converted all my AF locos to LED's as they draw SOOOO much less power. They are also cooler and last forever. I used a bridge rectifier (DF06M-ND) from Digi-key. I think they cost about $.50 a piece. I have also added a small capacitor and resistor to dim the output and eliminate flickering. The entire package costs about $1 each. All my passenger cars (25ish) have been converted to LED strips...which gives them uniform lighting from one end to the other....instead of the hotspot right in the middle and no light at either end. I have added blinking red LED's to the end of my streamlined observation cars. 470 ohm resistors will do the trick but I used 750 ohm in mine. The light output is a little more subtle. Just personal preference.
> 
> TOTALLY agree with the color of the LED's. "Cool" LED's simply aren't natural looking. MUCH too blue. Warm LED's look great. Again...it's personal preference.


I use these LED's for my locomotives and they work great.

https://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/products/universal-solid-leds-for-transformers

I use the warm white LED's for headlights.


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

I went to the Evans Lighting and they have a slow flash rate LED for water towers.
May have to get one for the water tower I got from dooper. Works with AC or DC.
I have some flashing LEDs but they blink too fast.


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