# DCC Stop and Go!



## AdRockTrains (Mar 3, 2015)

New to trains and DCC. Having random stop and go issues.

Here's the setup:


HO scale.
4x8' loop of nickel-silver EZ track.
Newly upgraded Athearn GP38-2 loco with Digitrax SDH166D decoder and speaker.
NCE Power Cab with one connection to the EZ track.

The loco will start up and run but will seemingly loose power at differnt points on the track and then immediately start up again. 

The stop and go is pretty random. Sometimes it runs fine, other times it stops here and there, even right where the power is connected. 

Everything is new and clean. 

Any ideas?


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

I do find that DCC is particularly susceptible to dirty track which causes problems as you describe. If your track is indeed clean it is likely to be poor conductivity caused by the EZ track connectors. Use a Peco track rubber to clean the track or similar. Don't forget your are putting 2amps through that track and if the joiners are not doing their job it can cause the problems you describe. You could try adding a few extra feeds and see if that makes any difference.

Check the joiners and tighten them up with a squeeze from some lone nose pliers. It might be better to replace the sectional track with some flex which will give you fewer joins. Does this happen going over points? There might be some additional areas there that need attention.

NCE has a function which allows you to check the track voltage, might just just be worth using.


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## gator do 65 (Jan 27, 2014)

Using EZ track is your problem, the rail joiners are loose causing a loss of power as your loco puts weight on those joints. To help cure this you will need to crimp the joiners with a small set of side cutters or if this is a permanent layout you can solder the joints.

Side note: just be careful if soldering as you will melt the ties, just be sure to use some sort of heat sink to minimize this problem.

Also make sure your track and loco wheels are clean!


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## Gwpapa (Dec 6, 2014)

When I changed my layout over from DC to DCC I found several problems I didn't have before. Number one was dirty track. I have to clean my track regularly to keep things running smoothly. As already posted the connectors can be a problem but you need to try and eliminate something if you can. Make sure loco has clean wheels and the power pickups are contacting the wheels correctly. I take it you don't have another loco to try on the track so you need to make sure connections are tight and track is clean then clean it again to be sure. I found that the power extenders are great for dirty tracks. They don't solve everything but do help.


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## AdRockTrains (Mar 3, 2015)

I appreciate all the input! But, here's the wrinkle!

The Athearn GP38-2 does the stop and go, but I just put my BLI 2-8-0 Consolidation on the track and it runs PERFECTLY. I put the GP38 on the track at the same time and it does the stop and go. 

So, maybe it's the wheels need cleaning? Maybe the DCC decoder is bad? 

Any other input appreciated.


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## Gwpapa (Dec 6, 2014)

AdRockTrains said:


> I appreciate all the input! But, here's the wrinkle!
> 
> The Athearn GP38-2 does the stop and go, but I just put my BLI 2-8-0 Consolidation on the track and it runs PERFECTLY. I put the GP38 on the track at the same time and it does the stop and go.
> 
> ...


I would look at the power pickups on the loco first but at least you have eliminated the track. Now look at the loco.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Did you do the DCC installation yourself? Is the loco reasonably new? Check the wiring to the decoder is secure. Also check the wheels and pickups. Could be the reason your Consolidation runs OK is that the extra weight and extra wheel pickups overcome the dirty track problem.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Adrock

As noted the GP has the problem and the steamer does not, so
that narrows the scope.

You may have a broken truck to decoder wire, even on a new
loco. That would mean you're not getting all wheel power
pickup.

If you have a Volt/ohmeter, set it to ohms and put one probe on
the Fron tmost right wheel. Then touch each wheel on that side with
the other probe. Then Put a probe on the front most left
wheel and repeat. If you don't get a reading on any wheel that's
where you are losing power.

But I'd sure clean the wheels first, they could have factory 
debris on them. Easy to do for a diesel. Put a paper towel
on the track Pour a small amount of alcohol on that. Run the front
wheels of the loco onto the alcohol part then with your hand hold
the loco from moving as you run up the speed, the front wheels
will spin and the alcohol will clean them. Repeat with the rear
truck on the alcohol.

Don


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## AdRockTrains (Mar 3, 2015)

Cycleops said:


> Did you do the DCC installation yourself? Is the loco reasonably new? Check the wiring to the decoder is secure. Also check the wheels and pickups. Could be the reason your Consolidation runs OK is that the extra weight and extra wheel pickups overcome the dirty track problem.


It is a new loco and I did the install myself. It's a 9 pin plug on the Athearn, so it was pretty easy. Fitting it in there and getting the shell back on was the real challenge. 



DonR said:


> Adrock
> 
> As noted the GP has the problem and the steamer does not, so
> that narrows the scope.
> ...


Good advice guys. I'll check those things and clean the wheels.


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

AdRockTrains said:


> It is a new loco and I did the install myself. It's a 9 pin plug on the Athearn, so it was pretty easy. Fitting it in there and getting the shell back on was the real challenge.


Pull the shell off and see if it runs well without the shell on. You may have something binding up on the flywheel. I have an Athearn diesel switcher I'm going to have to put an N scale decoder in because the HO decoder binds up the flywheel. Runs great without the shell on, though.


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## AdRockTrains (Mar 3, 2015)

Update:

I pulled the shell off, which is insanely difficult to do without pulling all kids of wires and whatnot, and saw that one of the capacitor wires was pulled off right on the capacitor. 

So, I used my mediocre soldering skills to reconnect it and TA DA! That must have been the issue. I have run the train at slow and fast speeds for a while with no stop and go! It runs perfectly!

Thanks for the input guys!!! 

I am now running my GP38-2 and my 2-8-0 Consolidation simultaneously and it's loads of fun!


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

Glad to hear you got it fixed!:smilie_daumenpos::smilie_daumenpos:


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## Gwpapa (Dec 6, 2014)

That is what it's all about. :smilie_daumenpos:


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Yes, you need to be careful when shoehorning all those wires in when you have limited space. A good case for shortening them as much as you can and using great care when putting the shell back.


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## AdRockTrains (Mar 3, 2015)

Cycleops said:


> Yes, you need to be careful when shoehorning all those wires in when you have limited space. A good case for shortening them as much as you can and using great care when putting the shell back.



I definitely shortened some wires. The Digitrax decoded has a 9 pin and a 10 pin connector. The 10 pin side has the capacitor and speaker and then 6 or 8 extra wires hanging out. The second time in there, I just cut those extra wires short. I don't need them and imagine I never will. The extra space helped for sure. A little piece of tape here and there didn't hurt either. Also, the decoder has a recessed side and for some reason, that side faces up. There's an 8 pin connector on the Athearn board that the decoder lays on and in the default position, that 8 pin connector pushed the decoded up. So, I twisted the wires 180 degrees on the 9 pin to have the decoder lay upside-down and that fits better. You may not get what I'm saying without seeing it, but if you ever do this upgrade to an Athearn DCC ready loco, you'll get it. And probably do the same. 

Thanks again for the input and help guys! :thumbsup:


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