# Digitrax decoder for Kato SD40-2 Snoot



## wongkw (Nov 17, 2011)

Hi,

I had a $150 work bonus with stipulation that I spend it on whatever I want but couldn't receive it as cash payout. After tons of research over last year between Zephyr Xtra and Power Cab systems, I took plunge and bought the Zephyr today. 

I don't have any DCC locos so decided to get decoder for my Kato SD40-2 Snootnose also. I was given a DN163K1C. The Digitrax website indicates the B version, not the C version which is for SD40-2 (after 2006). I'm pretty sure my loco is pre-2006. The other thing is the B version was discontinued last year and replaced with C version. Before I try installing the decoder, is the C version ok for my Snootnose?

Thanks,
Kevin


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

The difference between the DN163K1A, DN163K1B, DN163K1C versions is the motor attachments and the LED's colors the older versions required soldering or bending of the motor leads.
If you give me pic's of the engine and decoder board I can tell you if its a match or if you will need to do some modifications to make it work!


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## wongkw (Nov 17, 2011)

I took two pictures...hope they provide enough detail. I think I oriented the decoder in same direction as the light board on loco.

Kevin


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Pull the light board out and see it it matches up with the DCC board as far as length and end tabs (electrical connections). Also you will need some Kaptan tape to insulate the decoder board from the frame, Send me a PM if you need some I have several rolls and I can mail you some.


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## wongkw (Nov 17, 2011)

Sean,

I measured the stock light board and compared it to the decoder board and all measurements were within a millimeter which could have been due to measuring in dimly lit room. I couldn't remove the old board yet because in my excitement in getting the Zephyr and decoder, I forgot to buy soldering iron and supplies. Thanks for offer of kapton tape but I can grab a roll for a few bucks when I get soldering iron. What width would be most useful for N-scale though?

Kevin


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Kevin,
I use 1/2" wide Kaptan for almost everything.
Use shouldn't have to desolder anything to swap that decoder!
It should just slide off and the new decoder should just slide back on!


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## wongkw (Nov 17, 2011)

Sean,

I'll grab a roll of half inch tape later in week. If you look at the second picture I attached earlier in thread, you'll see two globs of solder near centre of board that's attaching the board to copper colored pieces down either side of frame. I think that's preventing me from sliding board off without desoldering. 

Kevin


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Doesn't the new decoder board have the same motor clips on the sides of it?
You should just be able to pry the board out of the tabs without any damage, it is a little tight!
The kaptan tape you need is the yellow tape that's with your decoder that you have, I see it in the pictures.


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## wongkw (Nov 17, 2011)

I just checked the decoder again and you are right, there are motor clips attached. They blended in with the color of the kapton tape used to tape it to the piece of styrofoam in the package, oops. Thanks for helping the blind man see. 

I will need a soldering iron eventually, any recommendations for wattage and brand?


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

For your first soldering iron get a dual heat 25watt 40watt (or anything close) 25 wat for decoder / engine work and 40 watt for track and supply wiring! Solder .015 62/36/2 for decoder engine work and .032 60/40 for track and supply wiring. All the brands are about the same If the soldering iron has replaceable tips it's a good iron, Get a spare tip too smaller the better!
Look on the digitrax page for the instructions for where to put the kaptan tape, some installs it takes one place, some two or three places, Under the motor clips is super critical!
Hope that helps!


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## wongkw (Nov 17, 2011)

Sean,

Thanks for the help so far. I'm considering getting the Weller WLC100, it's variable from 5W to 40W. 

I finally had time to install the decoder and try out the Zephyr system I got last weekend. Decoder came with exactly the right amount of Kapton tape required for the installation. The front end of the decoder was incredibly tight fit under frame clips...I've read elsewhere the circuit board is marginally thicker than the factory light board. I had to very carefully press the back end of decoder against piece of wood while pushing from the front frame until the decoder slipped under all the frame clips. Even then, the decoder is not all the way into the clips but I didn't want to push my luck and keep forcing the decoder. 

I then excitedly set up a small loop and hooked up the Zephyr, placed the loco on it and started everything up. The loco ran perfectly. I didn't see the loco lights come on automatically like when it was on DC so went to manual where it showed how to turn them on and off. 

Then I tested my analog SW9/1200 and got the high pitched sound. I ran it forward and backward then got it off the track. Won't be doing that too often, just wanted to make sure everything works. 

That in a nutshell is my first experience with world of DCC...very relieved I didn't fry anything.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

YEAAAAAAA!!!!!
:appl::smilie_daumenpos:

That is a really good simple soldering station that should work really well for you!:thumbsup:


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