# Gluing down track



## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

I know that many people use caulk to attach their track to the roadbed. Is it necessary to spread the caulk so that it covers the full width of the ties, or will a simple small bead of caulk down the center hold the track well? With a small bead, will the track be stable, or will it maybe wobble side to side? Thanks for your advice.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Whatever type of adhesive you use to attach your track, use it
sparingly. On straights just a dab here and there. You will want
to temporarily 'pin' the track on curves to maintain radius, and
use a little more adhesive.

I use diluted Elmer's white glue, most guys have their favorite,
so go with that with which you feel most comfortable.

Don


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## D&J Railroad (Oct 4, 2013)

If ya use glue or caulk that dries hard or Elmers glue, you stand a good chance of the track coming loose over time. That stuff will stick to the cork roadbed or plywood but it doesn't soak into the plastic ties of the track. Use the caulk that stays kinda pliable over time. Run a bead down the center of the track line then use a putty knife to spread it thin. If ya leave it thick it will ooze up between the ties. Use weights on the track to hold it down for a day. Set up a fan to help the caulk set up. Using nails in the track will tend to pull the rails together and alters the gauge.


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## thysell (Jun 8, 2013)

Clear caulk is easier to hide with ballast than white caulk. I glued some track down with clear by mistake. It went down white and slowly turned clear. The track looked pretty good on the cork roadbed even before I added ballast. As mentioned you want the caulk to be elastic not hard when cured. I like Don's idea of using thinned white glue. Makes it easier to move or change track later. I didn't realize that white glue would hold the track in place. I used caulk and it definitely require more work to make changes.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I use gray DAP adhesive latex caulk. What I do is run a 1/8" bead down the track centerline, then use one of those fake credit cards you get in the mail (you could also use a putty knife) to spread it flat. The track sticks immediately, although I do weight it for a couple of hours, just to be sure.

It really isn't hard to pry up with a putty knife, should the need arise. Whatever you use, make sure NOT to glue the points of your turnouts into a fixed position, no matter what.


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## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

Thanks guys, I REALLY appreciate the advice and info! :smilie_daumenpos:


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## SBRacing (Mar 11, 2015)

I use 100% Elmers White glue. I lay the track down on the roadbed and pin it down with push pins. Then I gule sections at a time. I just run a zig-zag on the road bed and lay the track down and put the push pins back in and used weight to hold the tracks down. Old heavy books work good, along with that one that teaches you how to learn spanish .


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## Mister Bill (Jan 30, 2014)

Unless you are confident about everything forever, think twice about gluing track. You can always glue later. It is a mess to un-glue.

I am on my 4th layout, and I glued my cork with caulk. I nailed the track to start, Everything was great until I got some more sophisticated DCC engines. 

Long story short, I had to pull up the track and re-set. Someone somewhere said to solder track joints on curves. That was a mistake for me, and I had to go back and cut out the bad joints.

It was hard enough in itself. If I had to try to remove old glue or cork, I think it would have been a financial disaster.

Bill


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Bill, I hear what you're saying, but for my money, the benefits of stable track and better connectivity outweight the risks of a potential future modification. The only reason I personally would have unsoldered, unglued (with caulk) track is if I knew I was going to modify an area in the near future (a siding leading to a future expansion, for instance).

When I ripped out my second layout, I was able to salvage several 8' long pieces for reuse on my current one.

Just my view -- not to invalidate yours.


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## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*glueing down h.o. track with white glue should work for long term performance.*

it's been my experience to hold the the track in place with small nails with tiny heads and or with a thin round head that accepts a small punch to drive the small nail into the plywood base board. You have to be careful not to deform the plastic tie. I think with a few extra steps a thin wash of diluted white or wood glue would be sufficient to hold the track/rails in place. Then another white glue wash to hold the ballast in place,which I also believe will hold the plastic ties in place, where the nails could possibly be removed. In this instance of gluing down track with white glue ,temporarily held in place with small nails~1/2" or less in length. 
This process of gluing down track. (A drop or two of dish soap insures to break down the surface tension of the glue water mixture.)
This also promotes the absorption of the mixture amongst the ties and ballast.
Now if your anchoring your track down on Styrofoam, Pins an be used to help anchor down/hold the rails in place while the glue is drying.

Good luck with your project!


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