# Marx 027 remote control switches



## Norman Swan (Dec 5, 2012)

I have a RH and LH pair of Marx 027 remote control switches with the contol panel. One switch works perfectly and will more than likely benifit from a cleaning and lube without opening the switch which is a riveted assembly.

The second switch works with applied power but the movable section will only move about one half of the required distance to align the rails. 

I suspect that there are 3 possible causes of this:

1. There is something which is interfering with the mechanism on the inside.
2. There is corrosion on the moving parts that is inhibiting the full travel of the internal mechanism.
3, There is a partial failure of the electromagnetic coil on one side, which is I suspect somewhat unlikely, as you either have an electromagnet that works or not.

I am going to have to open the switch, and I am wondering if there is an easier means to close it afterwards other than the rivets? Self tapping screws, pop rivets or small machine screws, nuts and lock washers such as #4-40.

Any comments before I start work.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Couple of threads may help you out a bit, but I'm not sure if they address switch houseing removal/reinstall. Our member T-Man is likely your best aid here ...

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=4273

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=9733

TJ


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## plandis (Oct 5, 2011)

I have a set (LH and RH) of those. I think the best way really open it up is to drill out the rivets. they arent hard to replace once you find/correct the problem. small flat head (#4-40) screws with flat washers and nylock nuts would probably work out fine as well.


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## OldMarxGuy (Jan 22, 2014)

X2 on small screws and nuts, old Marx switches will probably need more tweaking and cleaning of contacts in the future. Fun to tinker with though.


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## Dave Farquhar (Feb 20, 2013)

I have at least one Marx switch that I put back together with screws. I think a 6-32 may thread right in to the base and hold it closed, no nut required. Give it a try.


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## Handyandy (Feb 14, 2012)

Check out these videos. Lots of info on repairing old Marx switches....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-BH3CK-Ok-g
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khtixY_aK3Y


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

I would recommend lubing the mechanism with motor oil.


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## OldMarxGuy (Jan 22, 2014)

Phew! Brian really takes it slow explaining things. Some other things to do: make sure sliding piece slides easily and not impeded by rust/dirt. Also make sure sliding "piston" in solenoid slides freely. Cleaning and solenoid tube and piston might be needed. The brass contacts may need cleaning and adjusting for good electrical contact also. 60+ year old switches often stored in damp garages, etc. often need TLC.


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## Rabbitman (Jan 24, 2014)

plandis said:


> I have a set (LH and RH) of those. I think the best way really open it up is to drill out the rivets. they arent hard to replace once you find/correct the problem. small flat head (#4-40) screws with flat washers and nylock nuts would probably work out fine as well.


 I have a pair myself from about 1959 which still do actually work just as good as they did then but I never could back anything through them very well and you had to have enough speed up just to get through them going forward but my old 2037 is finiky on any switch as it needs something like a stronger spring for the front wheels. After I built this layout I just bought new switches but I wonder if the old Marx switches were anti-derailing. I didn't even know what that meant until I started reading this forum about two months ago. If they are anti-derailing I never saw it work but I know I never had insualtor pins in them where they go, I'm just curious about them now.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Here is an easy way to make non-derailing switches:

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=20377

Works for Marx switches and Lionel switches.


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## Handyandy (Feb 14, 2012)

All of my Marx switches are non-derailing, even the manual ones. 

I use nothing but the old school all metal ones and so far I have had zero derailments caused by a switch. Sometimes I don't get a switch thown or completely closed in time, but that's operator error! lol


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## Rabbitman (Jan 24, 2014)

servoguy said:


> Here is an easy way to make non-derailing switches:
> 
> http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=20377
> 
> Works for Marx switches and Lionel switches.


 Thanks, I just read that and it seems like I do actually remember a copper piece with a wire soldered on it that was made to slip over a rail. It either came with the switches or a little crossing signal thing. Seems to me there was 2 of them so they probably were for the switches but I just wired them up matching the colored wires to the instructions, they worked so I figured that's all there was too it back then. They still do work just fine but are very unreliable going through them. Seems like they were like $6 or $8 a pair back then (1959)


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Handyandy, you don't understand what a non-derailing switch is. A non-derailing switch will automatically throw to the right direction of the train is entering the switch in such a way that without the switch being thrown, the train would derail. It does not depend on the operator throwing the switch. Manual switches are obviously no non-derailing.


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## BWA (Jun 16, 2012)

My manual switches are manually non derailing


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Servoguy, it depends on the operator!
I couldn't resist!


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