# Trestle Ties... To make or not to make.. That is the question..



## CF-DRG (Apr 13, 2020)

So... I built my first trestle on my layout.. But looking at other modelers, their ties across the their trestles seem to be part of the trestle model. They seem to be bigger and have a closer spacing...
I built mine and then laid my track (Micro Engineering code 100) across the build. Then weathered and stained it all to match... Ummm,,
My questions are.. 
1. If you build the ties into the trestle model, how are you attaching the rail to it?
2. what are you using to space the rails evenly over the trestle?
3. Is there any literature on doing this? 
4. Am i splitting hairs here , and just stick with laying standard track across....

The pics are of my trestle and the track that was just laid across it.. I know I know that code 100 is a scale 20" high .. But it makes it easier for some of the engines and if I get to loose with the ballast on other areas of the layout


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## Mark VerMurlen (Aug 15, 2015)

Micro Engineering makes flex track specifically for bridges/trestles (Micro Engineering). It has the wider ties and closer tie spacing. It also comes with guard rails. That’s what I used on my layout.


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## Dennis461 (Jan 5, 2018)

Your bridge looks fine, similar to mine. Trackwork is up and running on yours, now focus on other aspect of model railroading. Come back to it later and upgrade.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

Here's the way I look at stuff like that. Your rail line got such a deal in a lot of 20" tall rail. That they made it work.


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## CF-DRG (Apr 13, 2020)

Fair enough Severn .. lol.. It is a logging layout so the workers opted to use what they had, regular ties and spacing .. And they did get a deal on the 20" rails...


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## cv_acr (Oct 28, 2011)

CF-DRG said:


> So... I built my first trestle on my layout.. But looking at other modelers, their ties across the their trestles seem to be part of the trestle model. They seem to be bigger and have a closer spacing...
> I built mine and then laid my track (Micro Engineering code 100) across the build. Then weathered and stained it all to match... Ummm,,
> My questions are..
> 1. If you build the ties into the trestle model, how are you attaching the rail to it?
> ...


1. Contact cement or pliobond; 
2. NMRA track gauge, Micro-Engineering three-point guages
3. Look up any articles on hand laying track or scratchbuilding bridges
4. Bridges do not use standard ties, they use larger and heavier ties on a closer spacing.

Also, .100" is more like 9" in HO scale, not 20.


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## 65446 (Sep 22, 2018)

Yes, you are right. Real trestles have the heavier closer ties of their own, and for an obvious reason..
It's up to you; keep it the way you have it accepting it being visually incorrect (which is OK)..or, re-do it like 1:1 scale....
I think you knew this going into the project..Now the guilt is killing you....
If you correct it, either all the bents will have to be shortened or approaches to trestle raised to meet the new ties' height..
And you can no longer employ track you have.. You'll need to install blank rail on new heavy ties.... 🛤🌄🌵 M


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

CF-DRG said:


> So... I built my first trestle on my layout.. But looking at other modelers, their ties across the their trestles seem to be part of the trestle model. They seem to be bigger and have a closer spacing...
> I built mine and then laid my track (Micro Engineering code 100) across the build. Then weathered and stained it all to match... Ummm,,
> My questions are..
> 1. If you build the ties into the trestle model, how are you attaching the rail to it?
> ...


CF-DRG;

First of all, your trestle looks very good! I also like your waterfall, may I ask how you made it?

As for the ties on trestles of most railroads, yes, as others have said, they are thicker (typically square in cross section, rather than the rectangular cross section of a normal tie.) They are also closer together. Both these things are done to support the weight of the train, when there is no longer earth under the ties.
On my model trestles, shown below, I glued the rails onto the wood ties with super glue and, as said, used track gauges to position the rails.
The Micro Engineering bridge track would be the easiest way to upgrade, and looks great.
However, logging lines were a whole different animal. They were temporary. Everything got built in a hurry, with whatever material was available (often raw logs) and then everything got torn up and moved, or abandoned, when the timber had been cut down in that area. Looking at photos of some logging railroad trestles, it seems surprising they could support a train without collapsing. Other massive log bridges looked capable of supporting the weight of a dozen loaded trains at once, stacked on top of each other. So for a logging line, anything goes! I doubt you could come up with an arrangement, no matter how strange, that some logging company did not use somewhere. In fact, your trestle looks entirely too good for a logging line! 😄 

Nice work!

Traction Fan 🙂


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## 65446 (Sep 22, 2018)

PS...Looks like you already have decent stringers (under track)..So you only would need the new heavy densely populated ties to correct the scene..But you still will be forced to deal with approach track tie levels up to them...
Another way would be to slowly make way by slicing away restrictive plastic webbing between existing ties and sliding extra ties under rails, and just accept it not being proto tie height on the bridge; RR crew decided just extra common size ties are enough for this...s l o w...traffic...


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## Aard D'Vaark (Aug 1, 2019)

real trestles on a class one or two railroad are pretty heavy built ...
on my 1890 logging layout I went pretty light, while I did build the trestles, I used Atlas code 100 flex track on top .. it's pretty hard to notice when you are five feet away ..


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## CF-DRG (Apr 13, 2020)

Ok.. Lots of good suggestions, So i checked out the Microengineering " bridge Flex track" ( thank you Mark) it only comes in code 83 and their web site (no pics ect.) to say it politely is "Meh"... Well, I'm using their code 100 ( like it ) and I know I can space it up with connectors. Would be nice to just go with like for like... They do sell bare code 100 for hand laying.. My ? is ... How do you hand lay track on a trestle , pushing spikes into the structure might be a bit hazardous.. I have looked it up and all the videos ( you tube) are for just general layout laying.. 
That was the first trestle I have (ever) built, and I have about 7 more to go ( Vancouver Island terrain is very rugged ).. So would like to up the "realism" a bit more on the next ones...


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

CV tie strips, ME rail (they still sell just the rail. Then you glue the rail down with Philo Bond cement. You could use heat instead of pressure to set the glue (big soldering iron)


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

CF-DRG said:


> Ok.. Lots of good suggestions, So i checked out the Microengineering " bridge Flex track" ( thank you Mark) it only comes in code 83 and their web site (no pics ect.) to say it politely is "Meh"... Well, I'm using their code 100 ( like it ) and I know I can space it up with connectors. Would be nice to just go with like for like... They do sell bare code 100 for hand laying.. My ? is ... How do you hand lay track on a trestle , pushing spikes into the structure might be a bit hazardous.. I have looked it up and all the videos ( you tube) are for just general layout laying..
> That was the first trestle I have (ever) built, and I have about 7 more to go ( Vancouver Island terrain is very rugged ).. So would like to up the "realism" a bit more on the next ones...


CF-DRG;

You don't need to spike the rails to the ties. Glue will do the job. Either the Pliobond Lemonhawk recommended or contact cement, or soldering if you use PC board ties like those available from Cloverhouse. The three deck girder bridges in the photo are constructed this way. I first built a soldered brass core , then soldered double-sided PC ties to the brass girders, and then soldered the rails onto the top surface of the PC ties. The last step was to glue Micro Engineering bridge girders onto the sides.(they sell them separately) You could also spike the rails down, if you want. The spiking should be done before the trestle deck is mounted atop the supporting bents. You could even temporarily mount the main stringer in a jig, on your workbench, and then glue the ties to the stringers and spike the rails to the ties there.

Traction Fan 🙂


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