# I want to see some pictures of your....



## HOMatt (Feb 14, 2016)

....Control Panels. It doesn't matter what gauge it is. I'm getting ready to add mine and wanted to get some ideas on the design you have.
thanks
Matt


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## PaulPerger (Feb 4, 2014)

Commenting because I want to follow this thread... Hope to see some good photos...


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

This is one of three turnout control panels on my
room size DCC layout. This one happens to control the
West yards and the main with passing siding.









I first painted the fiberboard yellow, then
used narrow tape to mask the 'tracks'. The
brown overspray completed the panel after
the tape was removed.

The mainline turnouts have red/green LED
point indicators. The yard turnouts are controlled
by a diode matrix. I push the button in any
specific yard track and all turnouts in that 'route'
are set.

The other two panels are similar design but
show the tracks in their specific areas.

Don


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## HOMatt (Feb 14, 2016)

I see that swings out on the piano hinge from the platform, correct?


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## RonthePirate (Sep 9, 2015)

I have a variation on the panel above. It slides in and out from a drawer slide hanging from the table top.
Here's a pre-installed pic. (I don't have one for the working product, but I assure you it's even better than I had hoped for.)










EDIT: I will post a pic of the working panel later on today, I have volunteer work to go to right now.


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## redman88 (Nov 25, 2015)

Following because I am getting ready to do mine on my 4x8 layout.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

Used a 2x4' plastic and glued stylene strips to it for the track map. Sprayed it all metallic black then used enamel pens to add color. No masking.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

delete


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

HOMatt said:


> I see that swings out on the piano hinge from the platform, correct?


Yes, I wanted easy access to the wiring. The back
of the panel has several terminal barrier strips.
All switches and buttons connect to those as do the
cables to the turnouts. I use a capacitor discharge
unit powered by an ordinary door bell transformer.
that gives me enough power to throw several
Peco twin coil turnouts at the push of one button.

Don


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## RonthePirate (Sep 9, 2015)

As I promised, here are the pics of the working control panel.
It is not sophisticated in any way! The others look like something from NASA in comparison.
But I think my idea of a hideaway is good, and I have a very simple layout.
So mine, as crude as it is, fits my needs to a T.

Here is tucked away, so I can enter my little nook.









Here it's fully extended, ready to work. The grey switches are track blocks, the reds are lighting.









A looking down on the panel view:









I put some of the blocks right behind for easy access:


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

Power supply and switch machine toggles.









Siding power toggles and some toggles for the kids (crossing gates and Lionel 445 switch tower).


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## VegasN (Mar 14, 2016)

wow.......very nice.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Here is mine.









Sorry for the quality -- that's why I don't post many pictures.

The LED's and operating buttons are Tam Valley Depot fascia controllers. The "active" track is a green LED; pressing the button not only moves the points, but changes the LED's color. They connect to the controller cards via standard Futaba RC cables, and from there to the turnout motors via another RC cable... about as close to "plug and play" as you can get.

This was actually a mock-up I did with Chartpak tape, intending to do a more formal one later. We'll it's 5 years later, and it's still on the "to do" list... because this one works well enough. I chose the colors to fit the NH's color scheme.


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## redman88 (Nov 25, 2015)

CT how big is your control panel and your layout?


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## Don F (Dec 5, 2015)

I have a 10' X 16' suspended layout under a covered patio attached to my workshop. It is two interconnected loops, with a two track staging yard in the shop. It is powered by two Lionel KW transformers. The switches are powered by an HO DC power pack. 
Photo 1 shows the KW's mounted on the wall of the shop







Photo two is the switch distribution block.







Photo 3 is the switch control bank.







Photo 4 is the track power distribution block







Don


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## VegasN (Mar 14, 2016)

God, it just all looks so complicated.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

VegasN said:


> God, it just all looks so complicated.



Ironically, a high tech DCC layout has wiring much less
complex than old fashioned DC. For the typical
home layout you have two wires from the Controller
to an under the table buss. Wires to the track connect
to that.

Most of the wires you see in the panel pictures are
for control of turnouts. Each one has a common and
a red and a green wire. So if you have a number of
them there will be a lot of wires, but really, nothing
complicated.

Don


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

redman88 said:


> CT how big is your control panel and your layout?


That particular layout was the Tommy Boy layout posted in the layout design forum. It was 4.5 ft x 9 ft. 

The control panel measured 10" × 24". Made of 1/8" lauan plywood.


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## VegasN (Mar 14, 2016)

Ironically, a high tech DCC layout has wiring much less
complex than old fashioned DC. For the typical
home layout you have two wires from the Controller
to an under the table buss. Wires to the track connect
to that.

Most of the wires you see in the panel pictures are
for control of turnouts. Each one has a common and
a red and a green wire. So if you have a number of
them there will be a lot of wires, but really, nothing
complicated.

Don 


Said Einstein to the potato.....


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Don's right, actually. To see it all completed, it looks bad. But once you realize that each wired turnout motor requires the same 3 wires, it isn't that bad. Connect the turnouts, one at a time, and you can ignore all but those three wires you are working with.

Track feeders are even easier. You require two bus wires, and a few pairs of feeders from these to the track. If you don't have a reversing loop, that's all you need.

Sure, it looks like a bowl of spaghetti after it's done, but it's really not bad when you're doing it.


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## HOMatt (Feb 14, 2016)

VegasN said:


> Ironically, a high tech DCC layout has wiring much less
> complex than old fashioned DC.* For the typical
> home layout you have two wires from the Controller
> to an under the table buss. Wires to the track connect
> ...


what does that connector look like? I need to buy that type of stuff.
Matt


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Not sure of your question but here is a picture of
the 'suitcase' connectors. The wire from the
track is automatically connected to your buss wire
with it. You can find various sizes at Home Depot
Lowes or hardware stores.

http://www.micromark.com/suitcase-connectors-idc-905-red-pkg-of-25,8939.html

For connecting the wires from turnouts to your panel
you'll want a terminal barrier strip. Here are pics
of various types. You can get these at Radio Shacks
and most likely Home Depot, Lowes or hardware
stores.

http://www.digikey.com/product-sear...48?WT.srch=1&gclid=CJuzmMWV-ssCFQ8kgQodF0gKoA

Don


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## HOMatt (Feb 14, 2016)

my question is, if I have the 2 wires coming from my Controller, and then 8 pairs of track power feeds, what type of common connector is used to tie them all together? 

I have some of these, http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/0387700108/WM5765-ND/362492

If I connect the Controller power feeds to the last 2 screws, top row + and bottom row -, do I just connect the track feeds to the rest of the screws. Of course keeping the + & - on the same leads. Meaning + on the top row of screws and - on the bottom row of screws.

I hope that makes sense.


I had a near death experience with electricity when I was about 8 y/o, so I have a great fear of it and stay away from messing with it as much as I can. If I change out a light switch or something simple, the main power is cut from the house before I even think of touching it.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Don't worry, I don't think you'll have any 'near death' experiences with 16v.


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## Lehigh74 (Sep 25, 2015)

Matt,

That barrier strip has eight pairs of screws. Each pair of screws between the barriers has contact so you can’t hook then up as suggested (with positive on the top row and negative on the bottom row) or it would short. The barriers are meant to separate each pair of screws from the others.

To feed your power supply to eight tracks you can do either of the following:

1.	Using one barrier strip, supply positive to pair 2, 4, 6, and 8 on a barrier strip. Supply negative to pair 1, 3, 5, and 7. You can daisy chain (install jumpers) the connections with wire. Attach your track supply wires to the other side of each pair. You can put two wires on each screw to get the 16 wires for your eight track feeds.
2.	Use two barrier strips (one for positive and one for negative). On each barrier strip, daisy chain all the pairs together using wire or manufactured jumpers like these. http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/0380021290/WM5017-ND/604531


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## HOMatt (Feb 14, 2016)

Lehigh74 said:


> Matt,
> 
> That barrier strip has eight pairs of screws. Each pair of screws between the barriers has contact so you can’t hook then up as suggested (with positive on the top row and negative on the bottom row) or it would short. The barriers are meant to separate each pair of screws from the others.
> 
> ...


Ok, I can see how to do it now. Using the jumpers is something I didn't think about.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

If fiddling with jumpers is too, well, fiddly (sorry!  ) for you, you can get one of these:

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Miller-Engineering-Power-Distribution-Board-p/mil-4805.htm

Or similar (they make them with up to 24 connections on each side). Simply connect your bus wires to the red and black screw knobs, and all connectors on each side are hot and ready for a feeder.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Matt

You would use that barrier strip for your
turnout control panel.

For your DCC wiring you would want a pair
of wires we call a buss from your controller run under your
layout table. The drop wires from the track
would connect to that as close to the track
connection as possible. You would not want
to run LONG track drops wires back to a
barrier strip.

As I mentioned earlier, you could use the 'suitcase'
connectors from your track drops to the Buss. Or
you could use Twist on wire caps. The suitcase is easier
since you don't have to disturb the insulation. It
bites into the insulation and makes the electrical
connection.

You would be wise using Red wires for the right rail
and black wires for the left rail of your track drops.
Use also, a red and a black wire for you buss and
line to the DCC controller. That would make it
more certain that you maintain phase (polarity).

A DCC buss typically runs from the Controller
to the far side of the layout. There is often an
additional cross running buss that is connected to the
first. You might use a small terminal barrier strip
at that point.

Don


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## redman88 (Nov 25, 2015)

I like these connectors 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001N7PX6K/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
With these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HQ4R56/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## mtoney (Oct 6, 2012)

My layout is digitaly controlled with Uhlenbrock Digitial controlers made in Germany. They will work with both DCC format and Loconet and Marklin Motorola format(which is what my layout uses). The controler to the left has 2 throttle knobs and the normal function keys. The controler to the left can handle turnouts, signals and any other device with a decoder installed in it. When I shift my layout back to 2 rail DC trains, I use a PFM sound console/throttle set up as my 2 engines are PFM/United brass imports. Only my Marklin is digitally controled. Mike


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## VegasN (Mar 14, 2016)

wow.....very fancy....


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## HOMatt (Feb 14, 2016)

DonR said:


> Matt
> 
> You would use that barrier strip for your
> turnout control panel.
> ...


What distance would be the MAX? If I put the barrier strip in the center of an 8x4 layout, the maximum distance from track to the strip is 4'6" or so. Is that too far?


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

HOMatt said:


> What distance would be the MAX? If I put the barrier strip in the center of an 8x4 layout, the maximum distance from track to the strip is 4'6" or so. Is that too far?


For a 4x8 layout, you can probably get away with a single set of feeders coming from your DCC set or power pack.

If you use AWG 12 for your bus, and 18 for your feeders, you can easily run tens of feet without worrying.

Using Futaba RC cables, I have had runs of 40 feet or more from a controller card to a turnout servo without issues.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

HO Matt

Not sure of your layout plans so don't know if
I can agree with CTvalley that only one track
feed would be sufficient.

If you had just a simple oval or so he would
be correct. However,
with an N scale layout on a 4 X 8 sheet you
can get a whole lot of track to power. That's
why I suggested a buss that goes end to end and
top to bottom. The controller feeds at the bottom,
the two busses are connected where they cross.

That system would cut down on the length of your
track drops though some could reach a couple of feet.

Drops every 6 feet or so should be sufficient.

I wouldn't try to bring them to a barrier terminal
strip. Use the suitcase or other connectors direct
to the buss wires.

Don


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

DonR said:


> HO Matt
> 
> Not sure of your layout plans so don't know if
> I can agree with CTvalley that only one track
> ...


You will get differing opinions on how much electricity is enough. I use about 1/4 as many feeders as a lot of people here, and never have any trouble.

Your mileage may vary, as may your tolerance for risk, but don't forget that it's pretty easy to add another set of feeders or two if you do turn out to have a problem.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I certainly agree with CTvalley. If it works with less
you are better off, less work.

The thing is that since the OP is now building his
layout, and IF it is to have a lot of track, thus a lot
of JOINERS, he would be ahead of the game by
installing track drops as he lays track rather than
have to possibly go back and add some when joiner
contact is not as good as it should be.

Don


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