# New Project Kitbashing DRGW Ski Train in HO



## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

I picked these passenger cars new in box off ebay for $55. 









They came in the mail today. My plan is to kitbash them into the Denver and Rio Grande Western Ski Train. Here is a pic of the prototype:









I know that the Amtrak Budd cars are not a perfect match for the prototype but that doesn't really bother me. Close enough is OK. I ordered HO Kato F40PH to repaint like this:









I got the Kato F40PH engine for $69.99 from Model Train Stuff.
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/KATO-HO-376561-F40PH-Chicago-RTA-135-p/kat-376561.htm
And a Digitrax HO SDH164K1C drop in decoder with sound and speaker for $47.99 at Model Train Stuff. 
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Digitrax-HO-SDH164K1C-Drop-in-Mobile-Sound-Decoder-p/dig-sdh164k1c.htm
So for about $180 total I can make my own Ski Train with DCC and sound.
Maybe add some fake snow on the snow plow.
Apparently nobody makes this train model in HO scale. The Ski Train retired from service a few years ago.
Any thoughts, suggestions?
-Art


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Looks cool, we'll wait for the pictures.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

My first repaint job. We'll see if I can make it look ok. The roof and side skirts are grey so I just have to paint the yellow and the black stripe. 
-Art


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## THE TYCO MAN (Aug 23, 2011)

Cars look almost spot on! Just the windows are off a little. The Ski Train musta used Budd cars.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Yes, they used budd cars on the ski train. The vista dome is gonna be tricky to wire for LED's in the upper section. 
-Art


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## gc53dfgc (Apr 13, 2010)

If you can manage use a air brush and it will look flawless.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Did you see my post over in O on the LED strips?

Here's a bunch of them for $15 on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=150571299400


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

I've taken the Ski train from Denver to Winter Park many times....(You can just make out the Winter Park markings on that shed in view in the F40 pic you posted)


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Did you see my post over in O on the LED strips?
> 
> Here's a bunch of them for $15 on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=150571299400


Gunrunner, that link is bad. 

I got the vista dome apart. It shouldn't be too bad to light up. Might be difficult hiding the wires in the dome. I started painting the cars. I taped up the side skirts and taped the windows. When the paint is fully dry (tomorrow) I will attempt to tape off the black stripes. The roof comes off so that will stay grey. When my decals arrive I will work on that and the engine.
-Art


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

sstlaure said:


> I've taken the Ski train from Denver to Winter Park many times....(You can just make out the Winter Park markings on that shed in view in the F40 pic you posted)


Wish I could have done that. I am a die hard skier. Only went out west once when I was a kid (Vail). The longest mogul runs I have ever skied.
-Art


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## gc53dfgc (Apr 13, 2010)

Artieiii said:


> Gunrunner, that link is bad.
> 
> I got the vista dome apart. It shouldn't be too bad to light up. Might be difficult hiding the wires in the dome. I started painting the cars. I taped up the side skirts and taped the windows. When the paint is fully dry (tomorrow) I will attempt to tape off the black stripes. The roof comes off so that will stay grey. When my decals arrive I will work on that and the engine.
> -Art


Why did you choose a yellow color for the ski cars? The ones in the pictures have an orange color to them. I have seen Rio Grande equipment in real life and it has the exact same orange that the Ski train has.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Because I could not find that color. This was the closest I could find.
-Art


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Well...if you only got to do it once, Vail was a good choice. I've skiied there a few times as well. I've been all over Colorado, Utah and Lake Tahoe. Still need to hit Wyoming, Montana and British Colombia in the next decade or so.

Here I am at the top of China bowl at Vail back in March. Awesome trip.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Here I am at Blue Mtn. in Pa. I photoshopped the film strip into the pic.
-Art


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

You've got to get out West again Arteii. You won't regret it.

I wish I had some good stills of the video we shot in CO this year.

Even had a couple runs in a Snowcat at Keystone. (Something else I HIGHLY recommend)

First pic is us getting ready to load, 2nd is after the drop-off. We got a good 1500 vertical of completely untracked snow (caught the 2nd cat of the day)


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

In my best Sara Palin voice, I can see the ski resorts from my house....No really I can, It's only 10 miles down the road. :laugh::laugh::laugh: Only takes about 20 min to get there from here!


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

I can see them too.....only problem is that here in MI the one's that I can see are only 150 ft tall.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Is that the one that's built on the old city dump?


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

The color you're looking for is called Anschutz Orange.

http://utahrails.net/drgw/rg-diesel-paint-schemes.php

Looking at the Polly Scale color chart and putting them side to side with your pics from the first page - I'm thinking Reefer orange is pretty close. If you weather the cars/engine you could easily have it pass as correct.

http://www.micromark.com/colorcharts/pscalechart.htm


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

NIMT said:


> Is that the one that's built on the old city dump?


Roger that. 

Mt. Brighton is closest (old landfill - as seen in the opening scenes of the movie Aspen Extreme), but I will be performing my NSP duties at Alpine Valley (same size, but not a former trash dumphwell: )

It's better than nothing.

I grew up in Oklahoma....skiing down those oil derricks is TOUGH!


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

When I was a kid we leased a lot of land in colorado for our cattle! Most of it in some out of the way places at the time, places like Vail, Aspen, Steamboat, Hidden Valley ! Kind of funny!


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Here are the cars with the single black stripe applied. It looks like I will need to add another black stripe just below the roof line on the sides like the prototype has. This project is really fun so far. It's nice seeing the progress. It was tough taking a perfectly good set of Amtrak cars (new in box) and repainting (since I have no experience with painting). I think it looks pretty good so far.
-Art


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Artieiii said:


> Gunrunner, that link is bad.
> 
> I got the vista dome apart. It shouldn't be too bad to light up. Might be difficult hiding the wires in the dome. I started painting the cars. I taped up the side skirts and taped the windows. When the paint is fully dry (tomorrow) I will attempt to tape off the black stripes. The roof comes off so that will stay grey. When my decals arrive I will work on that and the engine.
> -Art


Just search for this in eBay, you'll find lots of them. 

5M 500CM Warm White 3528 SMD LED Strip Lights 300 leds

I bought mine for $15 shipped, I see he's bumped the price to $20. OTOH, there are a ton of them also for auction, and if you just keep plugging, you'll probably get them for $12-14.

I don't know why the links suddenly turn bad, I actually tested that link after I posted it.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Just search for this in eBay, you'll find lots of them.
> 
> 5M 500CM Warm White 3528 SMD LED Strip Lights 300 leds
> 
> ...


Thanks for the link. I think I am gonna use the LED's I already bought. Since they are single LED's it will give me more flexibility in placement of the lights. The vista dome may be a bit tricky. Not sure why Con Cor used orange plastic for the seats in the dome. I think that may need to be changed. Maybe dark grey.
-Art


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You could paint the seats, that shouldn't be that difficult.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Art,

Nice project. The black stripe paintwork looks crisp.

Be careful in removing the blue tape behind the windows. You might want to run a sharp, pointy Exacto blade around the perimiter of each window to break/cut through the paint edge before you peel the tape off.

For what it's worth, I usually try to remove any painting tape as soon as I dare touch things. I find that it's more gentle on any paintline edges. If I were doing windows (like yours), I would have taped the back, painted yellow, removed the tape, and then re-taped a day later for any secondary paint work.

Not trying to preach ... just passing on some learned-the-hard-way thinking ...

Cheers,

TJ


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Thanks for the tip TJ. I pulled the tape off early on the black stripes like you suggested but I guess I should have removed the tape on the windows. The black stripes really look almost perfect!
-Art


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Like TJ, I've discovered that taking the tape off before the paint really "sets" is a much safer bet, and results in a better outcome as well.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Like TJ, I've discovered that taking the tape off before the paint really "sets" is a much safer bet, and results in a better outcome as well.


Lesson learned. Took the tape off the windows and have to use an exacto knife to trim the excess paint. Can't help but get down to the primer with the blade so I will have to touch it up later. I will probably spray some yellow in a paper cup and touch up with a small brush. Taking the tape off the black stripes worked perfectly!
-Art


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Closeup of one car with some of the window paint trimmed. This is gonna take a while.
-Art


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Art,
Just a note on lighting the obsevation car...The real cars don't have much light in there, tone your lights to a very slight dimmed light will look better that it being real bright. Cars look great so far!:thumbsup:


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

NIMT said:


> Art,
> Just a note on lighting the obsevation car...The real cars don't have much light in there, tone your lights to a very slight dimmed light will look better that it being real bright. Cars look great so far!:thumbsup:


I agree with that Sean. I bought 100 460 ohm resistors online and they made the LED's look perfect on my NJ transit cars but they have smoked windows. I think that 1000 ohm or maybe as much as 2.4 kohm might be needed to tone down the light in the Budd dome. No tint on the windows of these cars. 
-Art


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Another trick is to use the CL2 constant current chip to get a steady current when you get it adjusted.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Put 2 460's together in series and you'll have 920 Ohm, but I think that will be too much, you might be better off putting a variable resistor and adjusting as you go along.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

NIMT said:


> Put 2 460's together in series and you'll have 920 Ohm, but I think that will be too much, you might be better off putting a variable resistor and adjusting as you go along.


Ok Sean, I never heard of a variable reisistor? Where would I get my hands on one of those buggers? I don't think I have ever seen one in my local Radio Shack. I usually do the solder the LED to resistor and hold it to the track to see how bright it is before attaching it to my false roof (trial and error).
-Art


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

It's called a potentiometer or pot. It had three leads, Wire lead 1 to power, Jumper lead 1 to lead 2 (wiper) and lead 3 out to LED. You will need a meter to check what your starting Ohm value out is, One way will give you 0 ohms and the other will give you max ohm value of the pot.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Truthfully, I just have a 5% resistor assortment, and I just substitute until I get the light I'm looking for.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Black stripes done, window paint cleaned out:
Gotta order up some metal wheels so I can work on wiring up the LED's. Con Cor model came with plastic ones 
-Art


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Ugh! Plastic wheels, they have to go!


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

The painting looks great on the models. 

I have to agree with the rest and say remove any masking as soon as you can and before the paint dries totally. Trick I learned painting cars (yes real cars!)

Here is another trick when doing multi colors on opjects that have impressed details. (such as engine doors on a SD40-2).

Paint the base color, then mask after everything is dry. Before applying the second color shoot a coat of the main color on the model again. Let this dry well enough not to bleed through the new color. This will help seal up any gaps that may be in the masking and prevent the new color from bleeding under the masking. 

Massey


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Ugh! Plastic wheels, they have to go!


I agree! The description on Ebay did not mention this. I placed an order for new wheels today. I also don't like that the couplers are mounted on the trucks. I may try my hand at putting kadee couplers on the chassis. The trucks are mounted to the chassis with one of those cheap plastic pins (like IHC/rivarossi cars). That may also need to be modified.
-Art


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Massey said:


> Here is another trick when doing multi colors on opjects that have impressed details.
> Paint the base color, then mask after everything is dry. Before applying the second color shoot a coat of the main color on the model again. Let this dry well enough not to bleed through the new color.
> Massey


Great Idea. I will have to try this. Thanks for the tip. I found some grey paint at home depot that matches nicely. It is the correct shade of grey but has some metal flake. It covered up the blue Amtrak numbers on the sides nicely.
-Art


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Massey said:


> Here is another trick when doing multi colors on opjects that have impressed details. (such as engine doors on a SD40-2).
> 
> Paint the base color, then mask after everything is dry. Before applying the second color shoot a coat of the main color on the model again. Let this dry well enough not to bleed through the new color. This will help seal up any gaps that may be in the masking and prevent the new color from bleeding under the masking.
> 
> Massey


Very clever idea! Thanks for sharing,

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

That is a good idea, I never thought of that.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

*Ski Train Decals*

I made some decals for my ski train. I used Illustrator to convert the logo's to .ai (vector) format then imported them to photoshop for printing. I bought some clear 8x10 labels at Staples and printed them up. They look sweet. Since they are not float on labels I made lots of extra copies in case I put them on crooked. If they work out, I think I will spray with a clear coat. If anyone is interested in a copy of my decal sheet just send a PM. I also picked up some grey paint for touch ups this time without metal flake.
-Art


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Here is the final decorated Budd dome with my homemade labels. The other 3 cars are done as well.
-Art


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I don't know about the other ones, but that looks great! Very nice job!


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

You car get clear printable decal paper on the net for fairly cheap too!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I have some of that paper, I just have to buck up and actually print some decals. I'm going to try to make them for my Fort Knox Express.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Hey Art,

The repaint looks great! Very crisp striping, nice colors, good custom text. Just in time for skiing season!

Well done,

TJ


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

For you Gunrunner,
Here are all 4 cars so far. I will say that putting those itty bitty decals in the right place without making them look crooked took a bit of time. Good thing I made plenty of extras 
The "Club" car had too much extra room (few windows) so I put one of my Ski Train engine decals on there. The perfect Font "Cochin" was on my computer all along.:thumbsup:
Now I still gotta wait for my engine and sound chip from Model Train Stuff 
-Art


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

Looks great! now we just need to see some wheels under them.

Massey


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Those look really nice...great job


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Art,
I wouldn't clear coat over your signs, Now if they peal or get messed up you can just redo them. If you do, pretest first! The clear coat could smear the ink on the labels, it might also cause the edges of the label to swell or release the adhesive and make the edges lift.
I've had all of those things happen to signs that I've used in the past.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

For a first paint job, you did a damn fine job, looks great! :thumbsup:


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Massey said:


> Looks great! now we just need to see some wheels under them.
> 
> Massey


Massey,
Those plastic wheels are gonna stay right in the box they came in. Waiting for some metal replacements in the mail. Then I can make some track pickups for my LED's. Thanks for all the encouragement!
-Art


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## jonyb (Mar 20, 2011)

Wow, they look great Arteiiii! Nice turnaround.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Still waiting for the mailman to deliver my Kato F40PH. While waiting I decided to trash the truck mounted couplers. I took some plastic circuit board and made shims (2 made the perfect distance from the car bodies). I used CA to attach to the cars. Then I mounted Kadee couplers on the chassis.
-Art


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Mailman came and dropped off my F40PH. Boy the drop in Digitrax decoder was a piece of cake to install. Only took 5 min. 

I started painting the shell but made an error. I painted silver first but I should have painted yellow first as the window sills are yellow. I took some paint thinner to remove the silver paint. Yellow is on there now. I gotta wait till tomorrow to do any more painting. I also wired up the LED's for the Budd dome car. I ran out of money so I can't get any more bridge rectifiers or capacitors . Gotta wait 1 more week for payday.
-Art


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

I hate running out of money!! Lets see some pics!

Massey


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Massey said:


> I hate running out of money!! Lets see some pics!
> 
> Massey


Just for you Massey,
Painting and decals completed. The Budd dome has lighting waiting for my next paychek to light the others. This is my first Kato engine. I love that it has a speaker mount. Very smooth runner. The drop in Digitrax decoder was easy peasy. Here is the video!
-Art
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ewEqpEJoQcw


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Very nice, they look great running around the track!


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

AAAKK! I cant see youtube at work!! I have to wait till I get home. I have played with that engine in the past and like all Kato engines I had the chance to use it is a great engine.

Massey


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

For Massey,
Here is a closeup pic of the Kato engine with my custom paint job. I love how the stripes came out and the ski train rio grande logo on the front.:thumbsup: I still haveta add the detail pieces.
-Art


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Art,

Nice work. Bring on the snow!

TJ


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Have you tried solvaset on those decals? You can really get them to soften up and settle into the small details on the body (and hide the edges of the decal.)


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

I don't think solvaset will work on Avery labels, though I never tried!


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## Massey (Apr 16, 2011)

Looks great. I agree with the solve set it would make the decals flow in to the body better. THe video looks great too. 

Massey


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

tjcruiser said:


> Art,
> 
> Nice work. Bring on the snow!
> 
> TJ


I was thinking about adding some sheet rock mud to make fake snow on the snowplow.
-Art


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Art,
There is some craft paint called puffy paint and it does such a great job at making things look like they are covered in snow!
Drywall mud will look great at first but will soon discolor unless painted.
I have even heard of people Flocking their train sets that sounds a tad on the extreme side for my tastes!
Do you have a snow plow or snow blower? 
I have a snow blower that has DCC and sound, roof strobes and headlights. Just up your alley to do one too! The DCC gives you complete control of the blower fan and the lights and sounds. It would make a great addition to your set up!


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

NIMT said:


> Art,
> There is some craft paint called puffy paint and it does such a great job at making things look like they are covered in snow!
> Drywall mud will look great at first but will soon discolor unless painted.
> I have even heard of people Flocking their train sets that sounds a tad on the extreme side for my tastes!
> ...


Sean, 
I will check out Michael's craft store for the "puffy paint". That sounds like a good idea. I have considered getting a rotary snow plow. I think adding DCC and sound would be great for it. The inexpensive Digitrax decoders I've been using have the ability to change the sound project but that will cost about $70 extra. I have 4 of them now, it might be worth investing in the future. Using JMRI and Adobe Sound Booth I could add any sounds I wanted. Not sure what the sound of a rotary snow plow is like. What did you use for sound in your's? BTW happy B-day Sean.
-Art


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

Here's one (rotary plow) in action for the sound

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=frBh5vO_2g0


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

I'm not sure which sound I used. I think something older like a pacific?
I left my unit as a steam powered unit, but have thought about updating it to electric/diesel powered, just not sure if it would look or sound right?
If you need a decoder programed to a sound send it over and I'll program it for you.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

NIMT said:


> I'm not sure which sound I used. I think something older like a pacific?
> I left my unit as a steam powered unit, but have thought about updating it to electric/diesel powered, just not sure if it would look or sound right?
> If you need a decoder programed to a sound send it over and I'll program it for you.


I might just take you up on that offer. My NJ transit F40PH has a GP40 sound scheme.  I think if I had a rotary snowplow, I would change to the more modern Diesel Electric power...just sayin' 
-Art


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Sean,
What do you think of this idea. A potential new project. I saw an Athearn RTR rotary snow plow new for $40 online. I was thinking about a repaint like this. Maybe add a Digitrax SDH164D and modify the sound project from youtube clips of an actual one. Some rooftop strobes and front and rear lights and digital control of the fan speed. What do you think? Could I add a sleuth smoke generator to simulate the snow?  I would probably need a high output one like in the "big blow" UP turbines.
-Art


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Art,
Excellent go for it!
The conversion is easy to make it DCC it already has the pickups!
The price is good too!
I like your colors better than mine!
Did this one 3 years ago.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Sean,
What about the idea of adding a big sleuth smoke generator to simulate snow from the fan? 
I think you posted on another thread that adding a smoke generator would require a second decoder.....why? Do they draw too much power? How would a second decoder help?
-Art


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Art,
Smoke sounds good, no sure it will give the right look, but an interesting idea.
You will need a high output smoke generator and a fan to force the smoke out.
Yes you will need a second decoder to run the smoke if you want it variable, because of amperage demands, that really applies to keeping the smoke consistent with the speed or working amount of the engine!
If you just want smoke on and off only then you can run it off of the function outputs, but your going to have to have that output run an opto or electrically isolated circuit otherwise the current draw on the output will be too high and it will fry the decoder.
Your also going to have to run the fan with the output too!
Think of it this way, Small output from chip turns on relay, relay powers fan and smoke generator, The load is drawn from the track power not decoder power. You are also going to need a rectifier circuit to take track power and make it usable for both the fan and smoke generator!
Do Not attempt to run this off of an el cheepoo DCC controller!!! It will fry it! 
Some people wonder why I run multiple 8 amp controllers and boosters for total outputs around 32amps to the rails, (normally only heard of in O or G scale), this is why!
Units like this can pull some serious amps!
Sean


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

OK Sean, 


NIMT said:


> You will need a high output smoke generator and a fan to force the smoke out.


High output.....you mean like a Sleuthe 100?
I thought I could use the fan from the Rotary snow plow. If I could rig a tube from the discharge of the smoke unit to the front of the blades that would blow the fake snow out the discharge thingy. The rate of snow discharge is not dependent so much on the speed of the fan blades it has more to do with the depth of snow the Rotary snow plow is going through.


NIMT said:


> Yes you will need a second decoder to run the smoke if you want it variable, because of amperage demands


I thought I would run the smoke unit off an auxilary wire from the decoder. In other words either smoke unit off or on not variable. The variability will be the speed of the rotary fan blade.


NIMT said:


> Do Not attempt to run this off of an el cheepoo DCC controller!!! It will fry it!


Are you referring to my NCE power cab or are you talking about the DCC decoder?


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Art,
Your on the right track.:thumbsup:
Nope the 100 is way too small, I have several and just tried it out.
Your going to need something more on the lines of,
Super smoke generator,
Extreme smoke generator,
Supersteam Gen w/Hose Cnn
A steam generator might be a better option?
The "fan" on the front of the snow blower does not move enough air if any at all, your going to need a small electronics/computer cooling fan to push air out the chute.
Yes your going to have to make a tube to direct the smoke and air out the blower discharge chute. 
Your going to need to make the smoke generators output adjustable, Unless you want it full out smoking/steaming all the time, the air portion will not effect the smoke generation portion of the unit. Your going to need to have an independent DCC decoder to control just the smoke generator and fan speed.
NCE power cab will have enough amps to run it, and yes you also want a good DCC Decoder to run the smoke generator! NCE D13SR is my choice.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Sean,
How's this for "Extreme Smoke Generator"? 
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/ari/ari29311.htm
Here is a video of it in action:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EmQLFOmZZlo
This is for G scale models. But it has a fan to blow the smoke out. It's pretty big but since it's an unpowered unit that should not be a problem finding space inside.
-Art


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Looks like you go a winner there!:thumbsup:
I checked the sizes againt mine and it should fit fine.
You could use some soft copper pipe to get the smoke to the front.
Have you seen the inside of the snow blower?
You'll be full up when your done!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Smoke for the snow blower would be neat, I have a rotary that isn't powered, so it has lots of space inside, that would be neat!


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Sean,
Just thinking outside the box...how bout one of those electronic cigarettes with a small fan they make water vapor. For even more smoke maybe a home nebulizer unit like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWSWUxl2Cx0
I like how the "smoke" is heavier than air and falls to the ground.
-Art


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Water and HO trains...HUMMM bad combo!:thumbsdown:
I think I would avoid the use of water!
Even though I agree that it looks better!


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

NIMT said:


> Water and HO trains...HUMMM bad combo!:thumbsdown:
> I think I would avoid the use of water!
> Even though I agree that it looks better!


OK bad idea. Dry ice? That would "smoke" nicely and it's heavier than air too.
-Art


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Dry ice is very cold, so you'd have loads of condensation on things, _aka _water.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

I wanna see you cut it down into small enough peices to fit in there!


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

Sean,
I ordered one of these Athearn RTR rotary snow plows for $40.86 plus shipping. Only 1 left now.
-Art
http://www.trainsetsonly.com/page/TSO/PROD/ATH-93806&offset=0&filter_cat=&PowerSearch_Begin_Only=&sort=searched.desc&range_low=&range_high=&search=rotary%20snow%20plow


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Now all you need is a F7 B engine to make it a complete diesel/electric upgraded unit.


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

NIMT said:


> Now all you need is a F7 B engine to make it a complete diesel/electric upgraded unit.


Good Idea Sean. I did a quick search and found this for $27.99:
DCC equipped powered B unit I betcha I can fit a SDH164D in there.
Thanks for the idea.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bachmann-Plus-F-7B-powered-Union-Pacific-DCC-Equipped-/290607749417?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item43a9925929#ht_500wt_1129


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Technically the job of the B unit is only to power the snow blower. The B unit and the Snow bower were pushed around buy another engine.
The B unit would have to power all the way up in order to power the blower and they did not want to take power from that to move the unit around. 
Just thought you would like to know.
So now you'll need like a GP35 to push the two around...


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

NIMT said:


> Technically the job of the B unit is only to power the snow blower. The B unit and the Snow bower were pushed around buy another engine.
> The B unit would have to power all the way up in order to power the blower and they did not want to take power from that to move the unit around.
> Just thought you would like to know.
> So now you'll need like a GP35 to push the two around...


Yeah Sean I knew that but a powered b unit with DCC on board would be nice. I could run it as a consist with my F40PH and the passenger cars. Or I could disconnect the power to the wheels. Neat idea. I found one on ebay with DCC for $44.95
-Art
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bachmann-HO-Scale-DRGW-B-Unit-Locomotive-NIB-W-DCC-/360180352303?_trksid=m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D51%26pmod%3D220823463924%26ps%3D50#ht_500wt_1129


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

By all means get it the price is great on the first B unit!
The second one would be a better match up to what you want to do!
OK now the small problem....The tender on the snowblower provides the power pickup for half of the motor circuit.. So ditching it and going with the B unit you will have to umbilical the power back to the blower portion of the unit. They do make these really tiny plugs that work great for this job! That way if you want to pull the B unit off the blower and run it with the others you could.
Don't even consider pulling power off of the front trucks of the blower...the way the front trucks are made the are set up for stabilizing the unit! Altering that set of trucks would be disastrous!


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## Artieiii (Apr 25, 2011)

My rotary snow plow should be waiting for me when I get home from work tonite. Working on it will have to wait for a bit as I am working on my shelf layout in the man cave.
-Art


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