# lights for pre war



## phillyreading (Aug 25, 2015)

Are the G.E. Mazda lamps good to use with pre war trains? I know they may use a few extra watts compared to the newer light bulbs but I have about 25 of the Mazda lamps on hand.
I use one in the headlight for a 249E and others in lighted passenger cars.
Have a post war ZW(275 watt) to power my trains with, so I don't think having enough power will be a problem.

Lee Fritz


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Have no clue what a Mazda lamp is. But if your using them with no problems, your good to go.


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## Steve "Papa" Eastman (Jan 27, 2016)

The Mazda lamps were common for use with model trains. Why the Mazda name I don't know, but they were made by GE starting in about 1909. If you have the right size, use it.

Steve


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## phillyreading (Aug 25, 2015)

The Mazda lights were originally used for Christmas trees in the early 1900's, 7 or 8 were wired in series.
I like to run the Mazda lights at 14.5 to 15 volts AC, they are not as bright as at 17 volts and last longer at lower voltage.

Lee Fritz


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

How about something like this?


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

https://oldchristmastreelights.com/the_mazda_lamp_story.htm I atually Googled something, the name behind the lamp.


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## phillyreading (Aug 25, 2015)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> How about something like this?


What is that? Does it have a screw in base? 
If it don't have a screw in base I won't even consider it.

Lee Fritz


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## pookybear (Feb 3, 2011)

phillyreading said:


> What is that? Does it have a screw in base?
> If it don't have a screw in base I won't even consider it.
> 
> Lee Fritz


That is someone who thinks the magic of incandescent bulbs in
old tinplate trains is a no no. :laugh:

Pookybear


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I was thinking he GRJ dosent remember the old chrismas lights anymore!


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## phillyreading (Aug 25, 2015)

My problem is when I solder something it doesn't hold for long, so I gave up on soldering. I prefer screw-in base or bayonet style base light bulbs.
Sorry GRJ I prefer ready to use lights!

Lee Fritz


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, I can't argue the point that the incandescent is probably appropriate, but I don't understand why you can't make soldered things last, that can be corrected.


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## phillyreading (Aug 25, 2015)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Well, I can't argue the point that the incandescent is probably appropriate, but I don't understand why you can't make soldered things last, that can be corrected.


Either I am using the wrong type of solder or I am not getting the project hot enough to hold solder properly.
So I just gave up on soldering! Too much hassles for me.

Lee Fritz


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

My tip on soldering, because I was absolutely tbe worst at it, is to get the butane hand held soldering iron.It heats up fast, so the solder melts and you pprojectct dosent. Costs a bit more to buy and run. But without it I couldn't solder anything.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I blew up three Mazda lamps before I discovered they were three volts. THey should be about 14 volts to work for an engine.


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## phillyreading (Aug 25, 2015)

T-Man said:


> I blew up three Mazda lamps before I discovered they were three volts. THey should be about 14 volts to work for an engine.


The Mazda lamps I have I use directly with 14 volts AC in a parallel circuit, about 9 lights in parallel. The box the Mazda lamps come has "for use in series with 125 volts AC, 7 or 8 in a circuit." Do the math, 15.625 volts for 8 in series, or 17.857 volts for 7 in series. 14 volts won't blow a genuine Mazda lamp, 21 volts or higher might.

Lee Fritz


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## phillyreading (Aug 25, 2015)

sjm9911 said:


> My tip on soldering, because I was absolutely tbe worst at it, is to get the butane hand held soldering iron.It heats up fast, so the solder melts and you pprojectct dosent. Costs a bit more to buy and run. But without it I couldn't solder anything.


Never though about using butane torch for soldering. One draw back is that you must go outside to solder or have excellent ventilation. 

Lee Fritz


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I got something like this.http://www.eastwood.com/9-in-1-cordless-soldering-iron-torch-and-blower.html you can use it anywhere


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## phillyreading (Aug 25, 2015)

sjm9911 said:


> I got something like this.http://www.eastwood.com/9-in-1-cordless-soldering-iron-torch-and-blower.html you can use it anywhere


Just looked at it and that would probably work in a house setting.

Lee Fritz


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Other than plumbing and the like, this is all I've ever needed for stuff like track and soldering brass bits together.









For my circuit boards and finer wiring, I use this.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I'm not good with that gun, also I'm thinking you use it a lot more then me for my few times a year usage I'm definitely more comfortable with the butain powered one.


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## pookybear (Feb 3, 2011)

All joking aside about light choices. Not getting a solder joint to last is a problem that can be fixed. Super clean surfaces is really the key to making a good joint, regardless of the heat source used. 

Solder always flows to the heat source. So heating the exact part that needs to be soldered is very important. Also "pre tining" parts also helps a lot. This is just applying solder to each item and they joining them with heat afterwards. 

Also I really prefer eutectic solder for any small wiring jobs. Unlike other solders it does not have a "mush" range and melts 
and hardens withing a 1 degree range. This way if you if your hands are not super steady you can get better results. 

Pookybear


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Yep, 63/37 Tin/Lead is what I use 99% of the time. The lead-free stuff is harder to work with IMO.


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> How about something like this?


These need a DC circuit with them don't they. Do you have a schematic with values for the conversion. I assume a resistor, and a diode ?

Dan


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Here's a circuit for one or multiple LED's. This will work for conventional or command operation.


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## Dieseler (Jan 29, 2014)

Have the same soldering gun as GNR works great and no waiting to heat up work to be done.
Lone time ago the interlocker at work gave me a big spool of solder (lifetime supply) and it works great .


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

Mazda Christmas bulb and porcelain base. Got this out of my Grandfathers Nativity hutch. Bulb still lights, reads MAZDA faintly inscribed on base.


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## RonthePirate (Sep 9, 2015)

I replaced all my old incandescent lights with LED's. I went with the "recipe" on this thread:

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=45698&highlight=led+strips

I did every passenger car I have. Newer ones from Lionel, and two older tin ones, Lionel also. (2642 & 43, I think) Also, my cabooses got the royal treatment.
(Again, John, thanks for the help on that project)

The results are amazing. Either very slight or no flash whatsoever going over crossings and turnouts.
And virtually no power drain so the engine gets all the transformer power.

So I am no longer going to use any incandescent bulbs anywhere on the layout.
I am now switching them out of buildings and replacing them with LED's.


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## sanepilot (Mar 11, 2012)

*Soldering*

I`m like John. I`ve got 3 wellers and wouldn`t trade them for anything. A large two heat one[ages old. A pinpoint one and a [pencil type] and a pencil with a screwdriver tip. All tips are replaceable. Right now I can`t find any new tips for the scredriver one.Mine is about shot.

Soldering-Clean good,Get the soldering with the cleaner inside of it. Get the iron hot enough before you try it. Nothing is as a good as a cold solder joint. You can tell by the color of the joint.It will cause you to pull hair out finding it[If you got any] Shiny[good joint] Dull[cold joint]

Works for me,hope this helps someone-- Have a great week,Sanepilot. Whatta week so far:smilie_daumenpos:


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