# Pengewood



## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

My next layout, Pengewood.

This is based on several villages I have lived in.
It is going to consist of a 36" x 48" main board with a "spur" line 9" x 60" along the left rear. This will be made in 2 sections for easy transport or storeage.
There will be a loco shed and refueling area along with a siding for storage. Again I am going to wire it for DC and DCC use.

More as it progresses.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Looking good so far.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

A little more done. The siding buffer has a red light on it. There is a coal straithe and water crane 
with a shunter and coal hopper to give an idea of what it may look like if by some miracle I dont change my mind.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

A bit more done today.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Better to change you mind now, then after its all done
Progress is always good.


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## Carl (Feb 19, 2012)

Enjoy seeing a British layout. Thanks for sharing.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

A little more done. 
This is just the base cover and will be enhanced over the build.
You can see the lineside boxes and a ballast dump, theres even a rusty rail in there.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

A few more showing progress.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

Some of the lighting.


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## Carl (Feb 19, 2012)

Sure like the progress on your layout.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

A few more of the scenery.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Coming together nicely. The picture with the inside of the train barn looks great. Is it lit up in there or justlight from the windows?


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

Lit by white led.


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## Ranger (Mar 4, 2012)

wow! that is some great detail work


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

A few more with the backscene in place (temp).


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

Nearly finished the fiddle yard/sidings. The background is removed until I start on the main layout.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

A few more.


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[URL=http://s63.photobucket.com/user/DavRed/media/Pengewood/Pengewood%202/P5260008.jpg.html]


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

The diesel filling point.


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## New Berlin RR (Feb 11, 2012)

what scale is this? Im guessing OO scale, but it looks like it might be close to N scale...great work by the way


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

New Berlin RR said:


> what scale is this? Im guessing OO scale, but it looks like it might be close to N scale...great work by the way


Its N gauge.


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## New Berlin RR (Feb 11, 2012)

very nice set up you have going


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Nice work Fred. Looks great,:thumbsup:

Are your storage tanks paper/cardboard?
Some of the other smaller structures paper/cardboard?


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

With the exception of the fueling point all the buildings and structures are card.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Even the engine house?


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

Yes even the engine house. Its a Metcalfe 2 track engine shed. The basic shell is unchanged, the internal floors are scrap 1/8 cork sheet and it lit by a white led in the roof. The leads go down one of the door pillars and throught the base.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Very nice, and detailed too.

I guess the light weight is good for the portability part your trying to achieve too.

Nice. :thumbsup:


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

Started on the main track. There will be 2 ovals,1 going through a tunnel and 1 going over it.Points on the inner track will give access via crossing to the sidings.
This unless I change my mind. Nothing is permanently fixed. the joints are soldered as the joiners do not do the job.


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## Carl (Feb 19, 2012)

Forward you go.....like to see your progress.


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## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

my 2 cents= 0
but if that is the incline your planing to use? its a bit steep.
it probable should go back to were the turn out is and start there.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

Nothing set in stone yet and not nailed down. Im a bit dubious about the incline myself but there is nothing like trying it and see if it will work. When you only have 4'to work with there is not a lot you can do.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

The track is half pinned, that is the pins are in just enough to hold its shape. When im happy it is stuck with doublesided tape and pinned at stress points. The joiners are rubbish, and they were not cheap either so I will stick to soldering the joints.

The incline is out and a double track through the tunnel replaces it. My locos would take the grade but not with any load.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

The revised layout. The green line are the mercontrol wire runs. Only 1 full track shown, the outer track has to be added.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Coming along great. You'll get there soon, I see the light at the end of the tunnel!


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

The trackwork is complete except for the joining section that will be added when the board is installed.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

Most of the ballast is down but ran out of granite with about 2ft to go. Started on the tunnel and hill and positioned the sation and signals.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

The tunnel with 2 layers of modroc.


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## JPIII (Jun 24, 2012)

Once I got passed the Mercury Outboard controls, I hit Lytchett Co in the UK typing in mercontrol for my google search. The manual throw system is something I've been looking after for some months. Not too challenging for an old Internet hand......ya could have made it more so. An Australian outfit with an incomprehensible web site for their product was as close as I've come before......now that was "a bridge too far".

It looks as tho they have the bits I need and the prices seem reasonable. Your pics made me go for it.

I need an 8 lever system (@ approx 36 bucks) and the 10 foot cable will make it....I think. If not, a little reverse engineering for longer cable will get me where I need to go.

Thanks for the lead.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

The 2 companies I mainly use for Mercontrol here in the uk are

http://www.anticsonline.co.uk/

http://www.buffersmodelrailways.com/

Buffers have the 8 way lever frame and Antics have most of what Buffers seem to be permanently out of stock of. Both will ship abroad though I dont know prices, an email will get an answer for that.

I like the small single levers for "by the points" control as it looks better, more like the real thing.


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## JPIII (Jun 24, 2012)

If you look at my thread in this section of the site, you will see what I'm up against.
I prefer a mechanical system to control the TOs......electrics are just something I have to deal with, not an avocation in itself.

Lytchett seems to be the *source* of this system and their website is decent.....workable.
I can see little value in dealing with a middle man if it can be avoided but thanks for the links.

http://www.lytchettmanor.co.uk/mercontrol.html

I have emailed them for info. There is a dearth of info (near as I can tell) about this stuff here in the US. If this works out, that will change.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

A tip that I find useful and more so if others are going to operate the layout is to put different colour heatshrink on each lever and a small disk (like a ground signal on steroids) next to the point it operates. This gives an instant ID to the lever/point combination. I also put a small dot of paint on the lever frame in the straight ahead position.


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## JPIII (Jun 24, 2012)

Yes, I'll need a system with 20 T0s to opperate. It wouldn't bother me a bit to use these throws for all of them....... assuming I can make them work up to snuff.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

fred up said:


> The tunnel with 2 layers of modroc.


Modroc?


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

big ed said:


> Modroc?


Plaster bandage.


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## Carl (Feb 19, 2012)

The folks at Buffers are great. Buy some of my coal wagons from them.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

fred up said:


> Plaster bandage.


OK, here we call it plaster cloth, same stuff.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

Started wiring the switch panel, note the polarity protection diode.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

Some of the lighting.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

A few more showing the start of the scenery and more lights and signals.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

A couple of pics showing the possible placing of the village. The white strip in the middle of the cottages will be the road.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

He said let there be light......
and everyone was joyful and happy. :thumbsup:



What is the spot in the middle of your mountain?
Did you have a landslide?


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

The spot is a strip of modroc I was using to fill a couple of gaps.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

So the strip is just laying up there waiting to be attached?
The one picture makes it look like a lake is being made on the side of the hill.

What gauge wire are you using there?
The picture makes it look like 12 or 14 gauge.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

Yes, I was thinking of a stream coming down from a spring but have had little luck in making running water look real.

The cable is 7/0.2, no idea what non EU gauge size would be. Its rated 1A at 240V.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

In my ROCK thread, http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=5314

I was told that DAP clear calking would work & stay clear, it did at first stay clear but has yellowed over time. 
Maybe from dust, DAP is a brand name. I am going to try and wash it but I doubt if that will work.
I was thinking maybe if I had sprayed it with hair spray it might have made it stay clear.

But it does look like running water I think.
Though the pictures suck. 












I have a couple of little creeks trickling down the front side.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

Some of the scenery, Ive swapped the shops and cottages around so I can give them gardens.The road is painted now I just have to even it up.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)




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## Carl (Feb 19, 2012)

Very nice.....like the positioning of the shops and cottages.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

A couple more of the ongoing scenery.


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## JPIII (Jun 24, 2012)

You can save a little TM&E by painting your plaster with your color selection of acrylic latex exterior paint (I use a medium tan) and sprinkling on ground cover while the paint wet......ground foam does not absorb the paint color. The base color shows in a few spots at the left just below the trees.
That is close to color of dirt around here.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

I quite often do the same or add powdered water colour to the plaster.
In this layout I wanted the white to show as I am losely modelling on the south downs area and they are chalk.


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## 05Slowbalt (Dec 19, 2011)

Very nice layout. Whenever I see people past the bench work I get a little jealous. I feel like I will never finish mine. But again look great!!


Jake


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## Carl (Feb 19, 2012)

Very nicely done and great advice on adding the water color to the plaster.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

A few more. The hill is starting to take shape.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)




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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I will bite.........what is with the horse?


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

They are all over the hills in the UK. This particular one dates back to 1778.

http://www.visitwiltshire.co.uk/explore/the-great-outdoors/white-horses


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Cool, first time I have seen that. 
Been there a long time!
What are they laid out white rocks or something?

I will go back and look at the link as I looked real quick.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

For those interested in the White horses.

A copy and paste,

Wiltshire is the county for white horses. There are or were at least twenty-four of these hill figures in Britain, with no less than thirteen being in Wiltshire, and another white horse, the oldest of them all, being just over the border in Oxfordshire. Most of the white horses are chalk hill carvings, and the chalk downs of central Wiltshire make it an ideal place for such figures.
Of the thirteen white horses known to have existed in Wiltshire, eight are still visible, and the others have either been lost completely, or are in a sense still there, under the turf, but have long since become grown over and are no longer visible.

Contrary to popular belief, most white horses are not of great antiquity. Only the Uffington white horse is of certain prehistoric origin, being some three thousand years old. Most of the others date from the last three hundred years or so, though the hillside white horse can be a slippery creature, and the origins of some are impossible to establish with any certainty.

This site concentrates on the Wiltshire horses, but aims to include all known hillside white horses in Britain and elsewhere, and includes some which are not chalk hill carvings but have been created by other methods. It does not cover hill figures other than white horses.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)




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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

Ran the first train under DCC today. Used a beat up American loco which has the advantage of being heavy, low, and big. Ive found that if this will go round without problem the track is OK.
Got a slight problem with one of the point frogs that will take a bit of careful trimming.


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## Carl (Feb 19, 2012)

Looking good.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

Continuing thr scenery with an embankment, a cricket match and a woman hanging out washing. (second cottage garden.


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## Carl (Feb 19, 2012)

Very nice....


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Fred, when I added the horse info I didn't see your link to it. 
Sorry.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

No problem, your link compliments mine.

A short video clip of a deltic on the Pengewood line under DCC.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

Ongoing scenery.


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## eljefe (Jun 11, 2011)

The lights really make it pop!


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

More scenery and the house and street lighting.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

most of the lighting done. Joined the 2 sections, ony got the power to run to the yard tracks.
Some more of the scenery done.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)




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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

Thats all the main work done, now it is the final details and fixing the buildings etc down.


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## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

*track joint?*



fred up said:


> most of the lighting done. Joined the 2 sections, ony got the power to run to the yard tracks.
> Some more of the scenery done.


i dont like to put my 2 cents in but in the second picture near the small silver bin. the joint looks like it is miss lined. could make trouble.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

wingnut163 said:


> i dont like to put my 2 cents in but in the second picture near the small silver bin. the joint looks like it is miss lined. could make trouble.


You mean here?










Looks nice Fred. :smilie_daumenpos:


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## Carl (Feb 19, 2012)

Looks great Fred.......slipping a few rail ties under the track should clear up the gap.


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## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

yes thats the spot. but i was not talking about ties, the rail is out of line, or so it looks.

and BTW, your lay out is outstanding. real nice work.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

wingnut163 said:


> yes thats the spot. but i was not talking about ties, the rail is out of line, or so it looks.
> 
> and BTW, your lay out is outstanding. real nice work.


Yes I noticed that the rails do look like they don't quite line up, maybe it is the missing ties that make it look out of line and the camera shot?

If you notice in the picture the Blue rocket is coming (or going) around the corner pretty fast, I guess it made it over them.


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## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

yes. could be both. if the trains dont mind, guess its a good connection.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

wingnut163 said:


> i dont like to put my 2 cents in but in the second picture near the small silver bin. the joint looks like it is miss lined. could make trouble.


The trains go over it at high speed so though it is misaligned I decided to leave it alone. Have more trouble with a set of pints that has a high frog that chucks trains off at speed.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

Carl said:


> Looks great Fred.......slipping a few rail ties under the track should clear up the gap.


That is on the "to do" list and is one of the many small finishing jobs to be done.
There is also some patchy ballast where I realigned track.

I find that the detail work can take almost as long as the main construction and is never really finished but in a constant state of change


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

And before any eagle eyed member mentions it, the back scene needs trimming to be an exact fit at the section join.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Fred

Really nice neat craftsmanship...and I wish I had those wall diaramas.
Sure makes the scene much more real than my cream painted dry wall. 

Those kinks on curves can be avoided by staggering the location
of the joiners. Instead of joining the rail evenly, cut one rail a couple
inches longer than the other, same on the connecting track. Slip the
long rail thru the ties of joining track to maintain gauge. Even with that
tho, I have one curve joint that does not satisfy me. 

Don


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

Getting there.


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## fred up (Apr 29, 2013)

A 20 second video under layout and train lighting and DCC.


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