# Checking for power to the rails



## mario760 (Sep 21, 2015)

It's been an interesting couple of days putting my train set back together. I've pretty much ignored everything else I need to do around the house so I can work and play with my train. I'm not sure what's wrong, but I can't find any evidence that power to moving from panel to panel or from the transformer to the track for that matter. The transformer hums like it should (as I remember it did) when it's plugged in. I connected the whistle panel but no whistle. Then I tried connecting one of the switching panels but it doesn't switch. The wires under the panels are connected as they should be. 
Is there a way to check if the tracks are getting juice from the transformer?

As far as the engine goes, I made contact with Doug from Portlines and decided to spend the money and have him go through it, clean it and make sure it's in working order and he can make any repairs he needs to if necessary. I thought that would be better in the long run than me trying to do this. I have it packed up and ready to ship. The down side to this is that I probably won't see it again for about a month or middle of November but it will take me that long to get everything else working at this rate. Other than that, I'm still having a blast working on it, cleaning it and so on. It seems like an old friend is back.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

You can use a multi-meter to check for current going out of the transformer...Or... You can connect the two wires on the transformer, turn on the power, increase the throttle, and lightly and quickly just rub the 2 wires together. You should get a spark. Don't hold them there, just lightly rub the 2 together. That will tell you if there's juice coming out of the transformer. You can always use a test light also. You can make one of those fairly easy. I used to use a flyer end of track bumper. Use the 2 wires you have already connected to the transformer and touch one wire to 1 brass/copper contact, and then the other wire goes to the other brass/copper contact on the bumper. It should light up IF the bulb is good.You can also check each panel in the same way. just keep touching the wires to the track to check for power after you attach your test light/bumper to the panel/ track you want to check out..


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## mario760 (Sep 21, 2015)

Thanks! I rubbed the wires together and nothing happened. Tomorrow I'll buy a multi-meter and see if I get anything. There is an identical transformer on ebay right now at a reasonable price that says has been tested and works. If mine shows no power coming out with the multi-meter, I may just get that one.
I'm calling my train the PayPal Express for obvious reasons.


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Don't be so fast jumping on a replacement transformer. Let's first see if yours is providing the necessary power. When you get that multi-meter. check the terminals of the transformer with the leads from the multi-meter.

Please don't bash me for the next few lines...I'm making an assumption that perhaps you may not be as familiar with these items as others may be so forgive me if I seem to treat you like a newbie....

In order to confirm the transformer is providing proper voltage, the black lead on your multi-meter should touch the "Base" post -- it will be so marked on the transformer somehow. The red lead from your meter should go either the middle terminal which should be marked "7-15V" or the other end terminal which should be marked "Fixed" or 
"15V". The difference is, the Base terminal and the middle 7-15V are used to power the track and provides variable voltage as you rotate the handle/throttle. The fixed terminal is used in conjunction with the Base terminal to provide fixed 15V to power accessories like your switches or lighted accessories and your horn.

With that now established, have you wired the track/board using the correct combination of terminals? If you have, then I suggest getting your meter, checking the tranny and if that tests OK, check the track and boards for power.

The reason I stated not to jump to another transformer, is that you can easily buy a more powerful transformer for only a few $$. I assume the one that came with your All-Aboard set is probably a 40-50 watt single control transformer. For a few $$ on eBay or a local train show, you can get one with 75-100W or more, perhaps even a dual control tranny. Gilbert made transformers that offered power up to 300W.

Since it seems you have caught "the bug" like the rest of us, this investment would prove beneficial for the future of your collection.


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## mario760 (Sep 21, 2015)

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> Don't be so fast jumping on a replacement transformer. Let's first see if yours is providing the necessary power. When you get that multi-meter. check the terminals of the transformer with the leads from the multi-meter.
> 
> Please don't bash me for the next few lines...I'm making an assumption that perhaps you may not be as familiar with these items as others may be so forgive me if I seem to treat you like a newbie....
> 
> ...


This is great information. I hope no one on here is reluctant to give answers that may be obvious ones. I am very much new to all of this.
I am dealing with the original transformer which is 50 watts and the wiring is as you described with the first terminal (yellow wire) saying 16V, the second (white wire) saying 7-16 V and the third (black wire) saying Base. These wires are in the correct order as they are in place from when this train was last used about 40 years ago.
If I test it with the multi-meter and it's a no go, I'm very much open to buying a better transformer and will be happy if you or anyone else steers me towards something on ebay that would be an improvement.
Thank you for your informative post.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

mario760 said:


> This is great information. I hope no one on here is reluctant to give answers that may be obvious ones. I am very much new to all of this.
> I am dealing with the original transformer which is 50 watts and the wiring is as you described with the first terminal (yellow wire) saying 16V, the second (white wire) saying 7-16 V and the third (black wire) saying Base. These wires are in the correct order as they are in place from when this train was last used about 40 years ago.
> If I test it with the multi-meter and it's a no go, I'm very much open to buying a better transformer and will be happy if you or anyone else steers me towards something on ebay that would be an improvement.
> Thank you for your informative post.


Don always says things much better than I ever will,lol. Just be sure when you check the variable side, you work the throttle. If the throttle is in the off position, you WILL NOT see any voltage on your meter or test light. Turn your throttle up about half-way, and check it again.. If you get nothing, I'd say the tranny is kaput. And don't worry about asking simple questions.. You have to take a step before you can walk. Once you start getting the hang of flyers and their running abilities, you'll be a expert, and we'll be asking YOU for answers.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

This may be a silly question. Does that transformer have a
circuit breaker? Could it be tripped?

Don


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## mario760 (Sep 21, 2015)

DonR said:


> This may be a silly question. Does that transformer have a
> circuit breaker? Could it be tripped?
> 
> Don


Yes, it does have a circuit breaker. When I plug it in though, it does make a humming noise (on the loud side), so I do know it's on.


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

A reading on the terminals from your multi-meter will confirm if the circuit breaker has tripped or not.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

This set was cataloged with a 22034 transformer which has a circuit breaker. I have never seen a wiring diagram for a 22034, but other Gilbert transformers with breakers have them wired between the end of the secondary winding and the base post. Therefor the transformer will hum when plugged in even if the breaker is tripped. I recommend you keep the 22034 for collector value and get a different transformer to run the layout. A 15B is a good choice if you see one, it has 110W, a dead man's handle and is not too expensive.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

I like the 8b's. 100 watts of go juice, and you can pick then up for about $20-30 bucks.


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## mario760 (Sep 21, 2015)

No voltage shows when testing the transformer even at high throttle so I'm in the market for a new transformer. I like the 15B that was suggested. The prices I saw on ebay vary quite a bit, with some for at much to close to $100. This one at $49 has free shipping. What do you think?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/311452763286?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

It looks clean and it is represented as tested and operable.I do not understand why people put three wire cords on these transformers. It will not hurt anything but they were not made with a grounded/exposed chassis that require the ground. I am surprised how much these are listed for, the price seems to have gone up since I last bought one.


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## mario760 (Sep 21, 2015)

AmFlyer said:


> It looks clean and it is represented as tested and operable.I do not understand why people put three wire cords on these transformers. It will not hurt anything but they were not made with a grounded/exposed chassis that require the ground. I am surprised how much these are listed for, the price seems to have gone up since I last bought one.


Yes, and the shipping prices are absurd with shipping up to $27, so if you buy a lower priced transformer, you get killed on shipping costs.
I was wondering too about why the 3 prong plug.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

AmFlyer said:


> It looks clean and it is represented as tested and operable.I do not understand why people put three wire cords on these transformers. It will not hurt anything but they were not made with a grounded/exposed chassis that require the ground. I am surprised how much these are listed for, the price seems to have gone up since I last bought one.


That's a good question for the seller. I would ask him. The only advantage I can see with a dead man's throttle is you can stop the loco and re-start without having the e-unit cycle.I have a 30B, and it took a little time to get used to it.


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## mario760 (Sep 21, 2015)

The same seller has an 8b which he also refurbished the same way with a 3 prong. What is a dead mans throttle?
The 8b also looks really nice and has a reverse. For the life of me, I don't remember how to put my train into reserve. I'm waiting for the owners manual to come. My original transformer did not have a reverse setting or switch, but I remember the train going in reverse when I was a little kid.


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## AmFlyer (Mar 16, 2012)

Gilbert engines except for some DC versions made in 1948 through 1950 reverse by interrupting the power to the track. I believe your engine has a two step reverse unit. The 8B has a button that interrupts the track power to cycle the reverse unit. The 15B and similar transformers have a dead mans handle that lifts up to break the circuit feeding power to the track. Other transformers such as the 2 and the 4B require rotating the handle to off each time you want to change engine direction. The Gilbert engines have a reverse unit lock, if the engine does not change directions make sure it is not engaged.


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Because Gilbert used AC power, there was no reverse switch to change direction like there is in DC power. So many of the Gilbert American Flyer postwar trains up to about the mid 50's or so, had what is called a 4-step reverse unit. What this consists of is a solenoid the trips when power is applied and off when no power. This will advance a small brass pawl to drive a rotating drum one step at a time. The drum has copper contacts on it that contact "fingers" mounted on the reverse unit assembly. These fingers contact the correct areas on the drum to reverse the motor or drive it forward. The 4 steps are attained each time power is cycled on and off through forward, neutral, reverse, neutral and it then repeats. A locking lever, usually protruding under the engine or stem tender is also provided to lock the reverse unit in the current position so it cannot cycle, helpful if you wish it to go forward only after power has been shutoff. Older steam engines had the reverse unit mounted in the boiler and had the locking lever protrude through the top of the boiler...#300 or #300AC had this as did the #350 Royal Blue.


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

In later years, they came up with a 2-step unit that mounted on the back of most engines. When it works, it's great, but many had issues that made them frustrating to use.

Today's electronics offer all digital reverse units that are quiet and reliable and can be installed in place of the old units in vintage Gilbert equipment if you so desire.


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## mario760 (Sep 21, 2015)

It turns out my transformer is now working. Maybe it needed to be warmed up more? Anyway, no need for another one now. Thanks for all the suggestions though.


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Perhaps the circuit breaker was sticking but after a few warm-ups is now unstuck? At least it's working....you can still look for a larger one.


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