# DCC controllers??



## Graham W (Jan 14, 2018)

opps, I meant decoders!
I have about 25 English trains that my Uncle has given me over the past 20 years. Most of them are either Hornby or Lima.
I am finally going to do my first layout. I am debating to go DCC or DC. I know that is a lot of decoders to buy, but I am just looking for simple ones. All I will need is for throttle and light control. So any suggestions for some inexpensive, decent controllers? 
This is all new to me so I don't know a whole lot about this yet. If it is too complicated I just might go with DC. 
Thanks


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

TCS or NCE three or four function decoders.

https://www.trainworld.com/manufacturers/nce/nce-ho-scale/

Before you buy, do whatever is necessary for you to determine the stall amperage of each of the locos you intend to convert to DCC. If the motors draw more than the rating for the decoders, you'll lose all the magic smoke out of them and they won't work any longer.


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## santafealltheway (Nov 27, 2012)

for simple cheap ones, im su per happy with the digitrax, they are also very small, easy to tuck into tricky situations. 

17.50$ https://www.ebay.com/itm/DIGITRAX-D...472698&hash=item52040161bb:g:wbEAAOSw3sRaWlAf

I have bought from this seller several times, they are reliable "Yankeedabbler"


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

If you want something cheap and simple many retailers offer ‘own brand’ decoders now but I’d try one before committing to a bulk purchase. Digitrax, TCS and NCE all make good budget decoders but I’ve found the wires on NCE ones don’t stand much handling before pulling out of the board. Some sellers also have a bulk purchase option.

It’s not complex to do, the diesels will be easy to work on as there is pentry of room, the steamers might be a bit more difficult. You’ll need a soldering iron, solder, spare wire, thin heat shrink tube and double sided sticky pads for securing the decoder. I find the process quite enjoyable. Some of the Hornby/Lima pancake motors are troublesome but can be replaced with an old CD drive motor. YouTube is your friend when tackling the conversions.

DCC offers so much more I’d say it’s a no brainer.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

The first thing that you should do is test each of
the locos on a short loop of track. Some may not
even run, or run slowly. This is not uncommon with
older locos. They should be cleaned an relubed with
plastic friendly grease and oils. Labelle's sell such
products.

Be sure the track itself is clean and all joiners have
good electrical conductivity.

Clean the loco wheels also. Any old residue will
hinder good electrical pickup.

Most of today's DCC decoders have a rating of
1.5 amp capability. That should be sufficient for
most locos but you should do the 'stall' test to
make sure your locos do not draw more than that
before you install a decoder.

Don


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## Graham W (Jan 14, 2018)

So how would I do the stall test?


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## mopac (Feb 24, 2011)

You can hold the loco back so that wheels are spinning and then slowly push down
on loco till it stalls, wheels not spinning and with your meter measure draw across the rails. I would do this test kinda quick. It can't be good for loco to be powered and wheels
not spinning.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

I would apply at least 6 volts to the rails before undertaking the test. Some place a non-metallic obstacle across the rails so that the locomotive will abut against it and begin to spin its wheels. With your meter measuring track current (amperage), you grasp the locomotive safely so as not to destroy any applied details or crack the shell if it is plastic, and begin to press down until you see the wheels grip and the drive stalls. Quickly note the amperage, and then let go, and turn off track power. From there, do each loco you'd like to rescue the same way, and keep a record. Then shop for suitable decoders that meet your needs.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Here’s a video describing how to measure the stall current, (skip to 3.00):


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Hold the stall test until after you have cleaned
and relubed the locos. If they run satisfactorily
on DC, you can then do the stall test toward
upgrading them to DCC.

Don


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## Graham W (Jan 14, 2018)

What I will do is clean up all the wheels and lube all the locos then set up a ovel and run all of them and make sure they run good. After that I will di the amp tests. I am still debating whether to simply go DC first and then maybe switch to DCC later. Although I don’t know if I’d be wasting my time by doing do you see first if I plan on going DCC. Just seems a lot of money to convert all these locos o DCC.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

That’s a good plan Graham. See which ones will run well from the off then convert to DCC the ones that don’t have any problems, you’re not going to be able to all those locos at the same time anyway, so be selective. DCC just gives you some much more and the cost is coming down. When you discover sound you’ll wonder how you put up with silent running. Just take it step by step and you won’t notice the cost so much.


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