# Central RR of NJ Switchman's Shanty Restoration



## Don F

I'm a member of the Ashley Breaker Preservation Society in Ashley Pa. The society was begun by Ray Clarke to try and raise awareness of and preserve the Huber Colliery, owned and operated by the former Blue Coal Corporation. The breaker has since been demolished, but the society has switched tracks to historical education and preservation efforts. 
One such project is the switchman's shanty mentioned in the title. I volunteered to restore the shanty, which was moved from a site along former NJC trackage west of the breaker.The shanty was moved to the society's Miners Heritage Park on Main Street south of the Blue Coal office building. 
A few weeks ago, I began making new window frames for the shanty. Since the shanty is exposed to the weather, I chose pressure treated yellow pine for the frames. I have been documenting the progress by taking photos. I have added several to my website. The link is included in my signature at the bottom of the post. The photos can be found by clicking on the New Page blocks in the heading. There are currently four pages, but only the first three have photos at this time. 
The original windows were double hung single pane non divided sashes. I am constructing the sashes true to original design, but the sashes will be fixed due to the somewhat remote location of the shanty on the park premises. I have several crates of old glass that I will be using to help maintain authenticity. These were given to me by a friend who owns a local glass business. 
I will be making the sashes after the frames are complete. The shanty is an eight sided concrete structure, with six- eighteen by thirty eight inch window openings. One wall is solid, and the opposing opening is for the door. I will most likely be fabricating the door, or modifying an existing door, as the opening is not a standard size. 
Other items in the collection include two mine cars, which are being restored, a tower signal, which is slated to be restored this year, and a new steel building that replaces the former dynamite house located in a concrete revetment below the site of the signal and shanty. 
http://huberbreaker.org/home/home/
Above, is a link for the society, and there is a facebook page as well. I will be adding photos to my website as work progresses. I will also be including the photos to the society's website after I contact the web master. 
There is a granite monument dedicated to the men who worked in the mine, located in the center of the park. A picture of the Huber Breaker is engraved on the monument; it was made from artwork by Bernie Gavlick, a young local artist, who drew the sketch in pencil when he was in high school. 
Thanks for looking,
Don


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## Big Ed

Don, why don't you fix your website id in your signature so that someone can click on the link and it comes up for them?
Like below,
http://don195657.wix.com/hopper-topper-loads

I think all you have to do is edit your signature, separate the website word from the HTTP part with some spaces that is why it is not working right.

Also, when I go to your site I can't really view ALL of the picture because the blue part up top blocks them.
The only way is to hit the control key and minus at the same time to shrink your site down to see the pictures. 
I shrunk it down to 50% to look at the shack. Then the letters and the blue part get small.
I don't know if you see the same thing I do?


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## Don F

Ed,
I'm still figuring how to navigate the site. Every time I go back to add photos, the format changes, and I get frustrated and wait for a while. As far as the link, I'm not familiar with the fine points of doing that. I'm not all that tech savvy! I grew up with rotary phones and four channel television with a dial attached to the set to change channels. It's probably less then ten years ago that we got rid rotary dialing format. 
The pictures are in their entirety; I posted them large, so they can be easily viewed. The one photo that appears to be cut off is like that from the file. I wanted to highlight the detail under the window, so that is all that's in the frame. I will be posting these pics on the society's web site, so there won't be any need to use my web site. I have the web master's phone number at work, so I have to wait to contact him tomorrow.


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## Big Ed

I think your header is too large on your site. ( the blue part)

You added this in your signature, 
websitehttp://don195657.wix.com/hopper-topper-loads
all you need to do is go into your CP and click the space bar a few times to separate the HTTP part away from the website word.
Like this, *don't forget to hit save when you are done.*

website http://don195657.wix.com/hopper-topper-loads

(see all I did was add some space in between.)

It will then be a clickable link so anyone can just click on it to open and go to your site.

GO to USER CP (up top)

Then on the left, is Edit Signature, click

Then just add the space between the word website and http

*Then down the bottom click save changes.*

Don't forget to save or it won't work.

Try it.


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## Don F

Done! I didn't understand what you were explaining the first time. I'll try to edit the website at some point. Gotta wait til the frustration level drops.
Don


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## Big Ed

If you go to your site and then hit the minus key *while holding the control key *it will shrink the site so I can see the pictures.
Try that to see what I am talking about.

Funny thing if you hit your home page pictures of the load pictures they come up view-able in a different window.

But the new pages don't do that. 
They don't open in the new window to look at them.

Your link in your signature is good now.:thumbsup:


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## Big Ed

Don....WHAT HAPPENED TO THE ORIGINAL POST IN THIS THREAD?

It is showing as mine is the first post?
Yours is gone?:dunno:


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## Big Ed

How the heck did you delete your original post here? :dunno:
It is all gone......I know I should have quoted you.

But the thread is still showing as you started it. Maybe the gunnrunner can find it and put it back in.
I think he has copies of things that have been deleted somewhere in his control panel?
At least that is what I was told by someone else, they :worshippy: can see everything that has been deleted as the site makes a copy of them?:dunno:

I wonder how you did that? It couldn't have been done when you fixed the signature?


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## Don F

I'm still seeing it. All I did was what you suggested about splitting the website from the identifier. I also went to my website, and fixed everything. All the photos are smaller, and will pop up when clicked on. I even removed the blue background. It just takes this old guy a little longer to figure things out. as I mentioned earlier, the format changed several times since I first created the site. 
Don


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## Big Ed

Don F said:


> I'm still seeing it. All I did was what you suggested about splitting the website from the identifier. I also went to my website, and fixed everything. All the photos are smaller, and will pop up when clicked on. I even removed the blue background. It just takes this old guy a little longer to figure things out. as I mentioned earlier, the format changed several times since I first created the site.
> Don


It is showing now but 2 mins ago it was missing.
Other threads are messed up something with the site is messed up.


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## Big Ed

Someone must have fixed something in the last few mins.
I have be offline watching.
Now everything looks to be back to normal.


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## Don F

Not much progress since my last report. I just about finished all six window frames. I only have to cut and install the parting stop. The next step will be to begin fabrication of the sashes. I have the word out to some carpenter friends to be on the lookout for latch hardware from the period. I use old window frames for crafts, but leave the hardware on as part of the craft, so I've probably had enough for this project. All the sashes I have in stock don't have the hardware. I'll have to look in my regular dumping spots.
I've had to switch gears a bit, diverting my energies to our Living Stations at church. Yesterday, I built a platform and ramp that extend beyond the Altar which is where the cross is raised. I probably won't get back to the windows until after Easter. Photos of progress thus far can be viewed on my website. The link is with my signature below. There are four pages of photos which are just labeled as page on the home page. 
Don


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## Don F

Now that Easter is over, I have gotten back to the project. Yesterday, I picked up the lumber for the door frame. I cut the jamb and header pieces to rough width size at the lumber store, and ran the boards through the jointer. Next step is to take the jambs and header to work to cut to the rough thickness, and then run them through the planer. I added a few new pics to the web site, but nothing other then a shot on the jointer, and the boards laying on the floor. I'm still trying to find photos of an original shanty for comparison. I thought I had a lead on one in Bethlehem Pa, but it turned out to be a much smaller crossing watchman's shanty, and in the same shape as the one I'm restoring. 
I have the material for the sashes put aside at the lumber store, and will be working on those shortly. It's Ponderosa Pine from Anderson Windowalls that my friend had for several years. I was looking for fir, as that was the wood of choice for sash years ago, but that stuff is quite rare these days.
After the sashes are made, I can install the frames into the openings to begin the concrete repair. 
Don


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## Don F

I spent a few hours this morning working on the entry door frame. A friend of mine was telling me his youngest son, a junior in HS has gained an interest in wood working, and wanted to visit the shop and observe whenever I work on the restoration project. He not only observed, but assisted during the assembly of the frame. 
I explained all the steps during the window frame assembly process, and explained the steps leading up to the door frame assembly. I also gave him some info on selecting wood, and checking for the crown and bow, as well as cupping. I explained how I used the jointer to true one edge of the raw two by six, and then cut it to the rough size for the opening. I then explained that I used the jointer again to finish the opposite edge. I told him that I used the planer to mill the two by six to the one and and eighth inch thickness, explaining that I made it thicker to allow more material to attach the inside and outside trim. I don't want to attach the trim to the concrete if at all possible, other then using caulk, and a construction adhesive.
I got some more information about the shanty, including a possible maker, and some of the intended uses. I'm including this info, and the latest photos of the door frame. The next phase will be to construct the window sashes. I have secured some Ponderosa Pine milled by Anderson Windowwalls from a lumber store here in Ashley that my friend owns. The original sashes were made of fir, but he doesn't have any available.


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## Don F

http://citizensvoice.com/polopoly_f...e.jpg_gen/derivatives/landscape_490/image.jpg
This is a link to an article a friend wrote showing the progress on the shanty. Today I started on the sashes. I am using ponderosa pine from Anderson Windows. a friend owns a lumber store, and had several bundles in his shop. I don't want to spend a lot of time looking for old doors and windows to re-claim the fir, so the pine will do nicely. 
here are some photos of the progress on the sashes:


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## Don F

Today, I cut the sash frame work for one window, and fit the two sashes into the frame. Next step is to mill the glass rabbets and slot. I'm debating on whether or not to do some type of ogee on the inside. This was just a place to get out of the weather, so I'm not sure if the windows would have had all the embellishments of a standard window of the time period. 
Since the window sashes will be fixed for safety and security reasons, I will be using biscuits and screws to construct the sashes. If the windows were to be functional, I would be slotting the corners, but this process will save me days of extra work.


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## Big Ed

Just going to paint them up when you're done?


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## Don F

Ed,
Yes, the color is picked out, it's a dark brown, and is supposed to be prototypical. I also acquired an old slant top desk that will be perfect for the inside. We also have a calendar open to March 1972, which is when the CNJ pulled out of Ashley and PA. I completed one set of sashes today, and will post photos soon.
Don


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## Don F

I finished one window today, only five to go. They will be a little faster, now that I've got the process down. The top and bottom rails take the most time. I cut the rabbets into the material for the sides this afternoon on my break at work. Here are the photos of the completed window.


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## Don F

I updated my web site with all the current photos. I'm working on the remaining five sets of sashes. These should go a little quicker.
Don


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## Don F

Here is a 1092 photo of the shanty with most of the windows and trim in tact.
Don


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## Don F

Here are some photos of the slant top desk for the shanty. A friend dropped this off the other day. This will make a nice addition to the completed project. We've got the pot belly stove, and I'll be making custom benches. We just have to find an old phone without a rotary dial, as communication was inter railroad, from the yard tower to the shanty.
Don


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## Don F

Latest update on the shanty progress: All the window frames and sashes are complete, and five frames have been installed in the shanty. My young assistant Nick D helped me this evening with the glass rabbet milling. I wanted to take one complete window assembly to the next meeting on the eighteenth, so Nick helped me install the glass temporarily. We installed the sashes into the frame, and put a stop piece in the window slot to keep the top sash from dropping down. 
We went out to my recycled building material stockpile to look for window latch hardware, and found three latch mechanisms, and two retainers. I have a friend in the remodeling business who is on the lookout for window hardware. 
Included are some photos of the frame installation from last Saturday. This Saturday, I want to start doing the concrete repair. Now that the frames are installed, I can use them as the forms for the concrete needed to fill in the damaged areas around the door and window openings. 
My plan is to clamp short sections of form boards on the inside and outside against the window frames, and gradually fill the voids. I will allow the concrete to set for a sufficient amount of time that it will not sag or fall out, yet plastic enough to blend into the existing concrete. 
In photo one, Nick and his cousin Jared install a window frame. Photo two shows some frames installed. Frames are squared and shimmed before anchoring to the concrete with Tapcon screws. Let me tell you, this concrete is still as hard as the day it was poured!. I broke two carbide tipped hammer drill bits, and two screw tips. I would imagine that this is due to the vibration needed to assure a smooth finish to the building. Some of the voids that need to be filled can be seen in some of these photos. 
A reporter from one of the local TV stations wants to do a story on Saturday. I hope she can do it while I'm working, because I don't have time to stand around looking pretty for the camera.


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## Don F

Not much progress this weekend, I got to the sight a little after eight, and worked on the window I couldn't finish last Saturday because I broke my last Phillips head tip trying to driven the Tapcon screws. I had planned to do some concrete work, but rain was in the forecast, so I picked up three bags of 5000 PSI concrete, a ladder, and some masonry tools and stored everything in the tool shed at the rear of the park. I'll try again on Wednesday afternoon. One young fellow was doing some prep work on the signal pole, getting it ready for paint. It needs one relay, some brazing on a cast steel clamp for the top railing, and some minor straightening on the ladder. The wiring is in great shape, and the lenses and reflectors are all in tact, but one relay needs to be replaced. A new concrete base was poured about a week ago, so after paint and testing, it's ready to be erected. I hope I can remember to ask about the status of the restoration progress on the two mine cars. One is being restored by the Vocational school students. 
If there is anyone on the forum from the Wilkes-Barre area who is interested in mining or railroad history, our next meeting is Tuesday at 7 in the Earth Conservancy conference room at 101 Main Street in Ashley. I will have a completed window assembly, a slant top desk, and Andre Garcia's mock-up of the shanty. We'll be discussing the possibility of selling the kits as a fundraiser.
Don


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## Big Ed

Looking good Don.

I hope that creek never floods over the bank?
Is that the Solomon?

When your done, can you find another to fix up for my backyard?


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## Don F

The park isn't in any danger of flooding. The creek is probably an eighth of a mile or more north, and the park is on higher ground. Even where the signal, shanty and mine car tracks are are still not in a flood prone area. If water should ever get that high, there would be more to worry about then some memorabilia!
Don


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## teledoc

Excellent job so far Don, and should look outstanding when it is completed. Keep up the slow and steady work. It will be well worth it.:smilie_daumenpos::smilie_daumenpos:


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## Don F

Thank you Teledoc. 
Don


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## Don F

My assistant Nick D and I made some substantial progress this past Saturday. We started just after 8 AM, and worked until almost noon on the hottest day of the year to date; a record high of 92 degrees by just after 1 PM. much of the concrete repair is complete.
Most of the major damage was around the door and window openings. The repairs were done by using eight inch sections of 1/4" luan plywood nailed to the wood frames, and clamped against the concrete. As each section was filled with concrete, another piece of form was added and filled. A sand and cement mortar mixture was used to fill the small voids remaining after the forms were removed. Several sections were done to allow time for previous areas to set up before removing the forms. The mortar was finished using a piece of cedar shake shingle. The mortar was smoothed and feathered into the existing concrete. 
Cooler temps are forecast for the up-coming week, so I'm hoping to complete this phase one day after work. There is some interior cement re-surfacing needed, and much of the floor surface peeled during the pressure washing last fall. When I built the door frame, I included a threshold which is about two inches thick. I will pour a new floor to the height of the threshold to eliminate a possible trip hazard, as the shanty will be accessible to the public.
Don


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## Big Ed

Looking good Don. :smilie_daumenpos:

I was wondering as to how they made those back then. While searching your picture came up in the google searches, your famous now. 

I did not find out much on how they actually made it, I wonder if it was formed upside down as one big piece?
Here is a site listing C F Massey company, they made a lot of concrete structures for different uses.
Some that looked liked the shanty were used for outhouses.

https://archive.org/details/MasseyReinforcedConcreteProductsDataAndGeneralInformationOn

On that page click on the full screen (upper right) then click on the book to navigate the pages.
You might already have come across this in your searches?

One page has this,









I found this site, http://www.nyow.org/wx.html

Scroll down a little there is one sitting in the woods.
This is where I found the mention of the CF Massey company.

Somewhere in there is this,
copy and paste,
* The New York, Ontario & Western Railway's concrete sanitary outhouses, of the type shown in the drawings, looked very similar to their telephone booth shown in the photo, and were sometimes mistaken for them.*
* The C.F. Massey Co. manufactured these sanitary reinforced concrete outhouses and sold them in 1911 for $85 FOB Newark, New Jersey.  These little structures had an occupancy for two and were portable, although of considerable weight. The outside walls of the octagonal-shaped structures had built-in panels, two doors with windows, a tin-centered roof vent and octagonal peaked roof. It is believed that Massey also manufactured the telephone booths, using similar concrete casting except for the door and window positions and without the roof vent.*























After I typed this up I reread your thread and see mention of the Massey company.
I might have missed it, but I did not see the above, so I will post them.

In your searching did you find out just how these were made back then?
What are you using for the patch work? Just concrete or something like a Quikcrete mix?
I might have missed this too, are you going to paint the whole thing when you are done?

I did find something saying that these were sometimes used for a RR crossing shanty too as they were portable and easy to move around.

On post #14 here http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showpost.php?p=1033426&postcount=14 you have an attachment page from a book, where did you come across that?

And you are right about the weather!
Jungle weather...*.I hate it!*:smilie_daumenneg:

Your putting a lot of work into this, I think over the door a CNJ would be appropriate.
Along with a rebuilt by Don F along side of it. :thumbsup:

*
 *


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## Don F

Big Ed,
I'm almost certain they were poured upside down. They are one monolithic structure. They must have been heavily vibrated, as the outer surface was quite smooth. The vibratory process made the concrete quite hard. It was very difficult to drill holes for Tapcon screws to anchor the frames.
There were to my knowledge, tow different sizes, and there were several uses: switching shanty, out house, the larger ones like ours, and phone booths and crossing shanties which were about half the size. 
For the concrete, I used Quikcrete 5000 PSI bag mix. For the finish work, I used Quikcrete type S mortar mix.
My initial intent was to use a concrete stain for the inside and outside, but the society board wants it to remain in its natural aged state for now. I can stain the inside though. 
I can't remember where I got the link, but I'll go back into my photos and see if I can find it. The picture in this attachment is from that link: Attachment 187170


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## Don F

The concrete repairs are complete, and a new 2 1/2" floor has been poured to the height of the threshold. Door and window frames have been primed and finish coated. Outer trim boards are being primed. I found a door that I may be able to modify. The sashes will be glazed by a fellow who does glass work. They are primed and the first coat of finish has been applied. After glazing, they will be given a final coat.


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## Don F

I forgot to mention that the color was matched from some paint that was on a piece of glass, most likely from the door. The paint was donated by Sherwin williams Paints. Store manager Steve Dotzel was very helpful with the paper work needed to apply, and having the paint matched and mixed. 
Don


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## gunrunnerjohn

WOW, that's coming along great. :thumbsup: They'll want to put that back out in the yard when you're done!


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## Don F

gunrunnerjohn said:


> WOW, that's coming along great. :thumbsup: They'll want to put that back out in the yard when you're done!


Thank you John, I'm enjoying this project immensely. I just hope the preservation society on the other side of the river can somehow save the one on the DL&W line. 
Don


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## Big Ed

That is coming along nice. :smilie_daumenpos:

Your going to paint the structure (concrete) too, right?

One thing for sure is that no one can come and cart it away.


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## Don F

Big Ed said:


> That is coming along nice. :smilie_daumenpos:
> 
> Your going to paint the structure (concrete) too, right?
> 
> One thing for sure is that no one can come and cart it away.


Big Ed,
The board of directors doesn't want the outside painted at this time, just the inside. Maybe they will change their minds at some point. However, just the little bit of color on the frames changes the whole image, by drawing the eye to the paint and away from the concrete and shadowy graffiti. The 1 X 4 trim wild enhance this even more.


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## Big Ed

I think something like a whitewash on the outside would be better? Though not white.

It would hide some of your patches from standing out?
Like a concrete colored "white"wash. Or tan?
Or else a weathered paint job just like we do on the models.

Were they just concrete when new or did they paint them?
Probably just stuck them wherever, as is, huh?

Have Andre paint/weather it.:thumbsup:


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## Don F

I have a photo of two being loaded onto a flat car, but I'll have to look for it. It's B&W, so it's hard to tell, but it looks like natural concrete.
Don


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## Don F

The first four photos are of the trim being installed and puttied.





























The next series of photos show a repair to a damaged section of the middle rail. I had to cut the damaged section out and make a new piece. This included copying the edge detail to fit the rail.





























I also made the bottom panel for the door. The original was a standard fir door with plywood panels. the top panel will be replaced with glass, and the new panel was made from 5/4" white pine cut on the table saw.























These are some photos of the disassembly of the door. The last two are of the mortise knob and latch assembly which still works, including the dead bolt function. I have to go to a lock smith for a skeleton key.
































Don


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## Don F

Something went wrong with most of the photos, I'll have to try to fix it tomorrow.
Don


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## Big Ed

The first 15 attachments are not working?


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## Big Ed

Don F said:


> Something went wrong with most of the photos, I'll have to try to fix it tomorrow.
> Don


We were typing at the same time.


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## Don F

Today, I completed the door. Both sides have been top coated, glass is installed, hinges are in place, and mortise latch assembly is at the lock smith for a dead bolt key. 



































I picked up the lumber for the interior window trim, and the trim boards are cut to size, ready for assembly. I will use FF biscuits, since the side and top trim are 1 3/4" wide.


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## Big Ed

Since there is not much room in the shanty's did the doors open in or towards the outside? Do you know?


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## Don F

Consensus is that the door opened in. I'll have to look at the old photos I have of new ones being loaded on a flat car, to see if I can determine for sure. I've included photos of the door being hung; ours swings in, and it goes flat against the wall. The door is only 19 3/8" wide, so it doesn't encroach much on the inside of the space. 
One photo clearly shows the door opening outward, but another looks recessed signifying inward swing. I guess it was up to the buyer; these came in many sizes and window and blank wall configurations.


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## Big Ed

I just got the 2 kits from Andre today and was thinking of how I could hinge on the doors somehow so they work.

Your almost done?
What a transformation.:smilie_daumenpos:

You have to paint the inside right?
Did they decide on some paint for the outside?
I think a wash with the right color would look good.

Is that a metal CNJ sign on the bottom?
I have one of those, is it set into the cement?


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## Don F

Big Ed said:


> I just got the 2 kits from Andre today and was thinking of how I could hinge on the doors somehow so they work.
> 
> Your almost done?
> What a transformation.:smilie_daumenpos:
> It's getting close; I have the interior trim to install, and some benches to make. The window sashes have to be installed when the glazing is done. The everything has to be touched up with paint. I also have to make two iron brackets for the slant top desk.
> 
> You have to paint the inside right?
> Did they decide on some paint for the outside?
> I think a wash with the right color would look good.
> The inside will be painted; I have a color chart, so the board or the body has to decide on that. No paint on the outside.
> 
> Is that a metal CNJ sign on the bottom?
> I have one of those, is it set into the cement?


That is a metal CNJ tag, and it is just tucked behind the threshold. I don't know where it will be placed, if at all.
Don


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## gunrunnerjohn

The CNJ tag has to go back on, right? It would be a shame to not reinstall that.


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## Don F

gunrunnerjohn said:


> The CNJ tag has to go back on, right? It would be a shame to not reinstall that.


I'm sure there is a spot picked out for it!
Don


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## Don F

Switchman Shanty Window Stop

Nick got some router experience this morning making the inside sash stop. He did most of the router work, as I cut the pieces to size on the table saw. Next, we cut each piece to fit the opening of the corresponding opening. The top and two legs for each window had to be mitered. The bottom of the legs had to be beveled at 14 1/2 degrees to match the bevel of the sill. 
The trim has been primed on one side. Tomorrow, I will prime the back sides, and Thursday, the top coat can be applied. We're ready to install the windows, when Jake finishes glazing them. Hopefully, this can all be completed before the Mining Heritage Day celebration later this month.


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## Don F

gunrunnerjohn said:


> The CNJ tag has to go back on, right? It would be a shame to not reinstall that.


John,
I asked about the tag yesterday, and it won't be displayed on the shanty. It wasn't part of the original, therefore it was deemed inappropriate.
Don


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## Don F

Today, I made one of the two benches for the shanty. I used some old 2 X 12 and 10 boards that were laying around outside weathering for a few years. 
To match the natural weathering on freshly cut edges, I use a mixture of Lamp Black, (chimney soot used to die cement black), and water brushed on, then wiped with a rag to produce a very close match . I also use this mixture when I make my new and used tie loads.
The only embellishment to the bench was a half round detail I cut into the bottom of the legs, using a Minwax stain can as a template. I used cleats and slotted wood screws and wood dowels to peg the seats to the legs. It's quite sturdy already, but I may add some truss rods for extra stability.























































































































Don


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## Big Ed

Nice bench seat. :thumbsup:

That will not be attached to the wall, right?
It looks sturdy enough just to sit in place, it would make for sweeping the floor easy. Just pick them up out of the way.

Though back then something tells me that the shanty's were not too clean. But I guessed that would depend on who worked out of it.

We have some slobs at work. They have brand new trucks and the insides look 10 years old already. A few of the other guys trucks will look new 10 years from now. Heck you got to work in it 10/14 hours a day in it, I like mine clean. Looks good to the DOT inspectors too.
I gave up 4 new trucks to keep my old one and mine inside looks new compared to theirs. I did not want an automatic so I kept my stick shift.
But I have been using theirs because mine is in the shop and some are just disgusting inside. Coffee spills, dirt, grease and even garbage all over, they stink too.:thumbsdown:

You find an old wall phone to add?
That would be a nice addition.


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## Don F

Big Ed said:


> Nice bench seat. :thumbsup:
> 
> That will not be attached to the wall, right?
> It looks sturdy enough just to sit in place, it would make for sweeping the floor easy. Just pick them up out of the way.
> No, it will just sit on the floor.
> 
> Though back then something tells me that the shanty's were not too clean. But I guessed that would depend on who worked out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You find an old wall phone to add?
> That would be a nice addition.


We have a black rotary desk phone that may have been used in the sixties, but it would be nice to have an old wood wall phone.
Don


----------



## Big Ed

Don F said:


> We have a black rotary desk phone that may have been used in the sixties, but it would be nice to have an old wood wall phone.
> Don


Heck in your shop you could make up a replica phone.:thumbsup:
All you need is the box, a couple of bells, the mouth piece and ear piece hanging on the side, and a crank. 



I found some for the model shanty's. I put it near the crappiest window there is, now one can really see the glue oops. I mean "weathering". 
Note the hurricane lamp on the desk.


















*Not my picture, I did not paint this one.*


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Tons of them on eBay. Here's a couple...


----------



## Don F

It's been a long and exciting project, and the shanty is nearly complete. The inside is primed and spruced up for tomorrow's tours. I also painted the bench, which Leo Cezerick calls Institutional Green, but on the can it's listed as Woodland Green. This is paint that's left from our house, but it's perfect for the bench according to Leo. I also installed the door knob and latch temporarily for tomorrow. I haven't gotten the assembly complete with deadbolt keys from Torbik Safe and Lock yet, but the mortise is the same as the one they are fitting. 
I want to thank my lovely wife Theresa for first encouraging me to join the society, and for having patience throughout the project.
I ran out of steam in the hot sun, as I wanted to fabricate the stand for the slant top desk, but that will have to wait for another day. I will pick up the paint for the interior finish coat tomorrow after the open house, or should I say open park? I hope to see you there, Flag ceremony at ten, with tours to follow.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

WOW, that's quite a transformation, nice job!


----------



## Don F

gunrunnerjohn said:


> WOW, that's quite a transformation, nice job!


Thanks John, It's been quite the experience. I've already had another potential project proposed to me; the former CNJ railroad station in Wilkes-Barre was converted to a night club, motel, (using train cars as rooms), and diner complex that was eventually abandoned, and the station has fallen into disrepair and victimized by vandals and homeless folks. There are several old cars that are part of the complex that will be sold or disposed of, one of which is a wood sided passenger car. One of our society members asked if I would be interested in restoring it if we could acquire the piece. Of course, I said yes, but the caveat being that I cannot do it without help from just one person. This would have to be a group effort. This may not come to fruition, but the there is a new owner of the property, and there is a possibility that one or more of the cars could be donated. Of course, it would be our responsibility to obtain and lay track, and move the pieces to our park, which is about a mile or so south of down town W-B.
Don


----------



## Magic

Don, beautiful restoration. Looks great 
Truly a labor of love.

Magic


----------



## Big Ed

Looks great Don. 
They should paint the outside with some kind of white wash (tan/concrete color wash). It would hide the patching spots.
Do you have an old pot belly stove going in the inside?
You show the hole in the roof, you didn't have to cut that out did you?
Stupid question,
Nice job on the door & windows but when you said hot I wondered if the windows open. They open right? I guess back then there were no screens to keep bugs out?
It must get real hot inside that?

This is the weather I hate!
95* plus 80% humidity. Sucks!
Be careful.

The old CNJ station was a work of art.
For those who never saw it,

















A few more pictures here, (for those interested)

http://www.terrastories.com/bearings/pa-train-station






Is this the old passenger car there? 
Check out the old caboose, Don........that caboose has your name all over it.:thumbsup:
(scroll down a few) http://rypn.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=31696











When you say you would need help....how many society members are there now?


----------



## Don F

Big Ed said:


> Looks great Don.
> They should paint the outside with some kind of white wash (tan/concrete color wash). It would hide the patching spots.
> The board doesn't want the outside painted at this time. Maybe after they see the inside?
> Do you have an old pot belly stove going in the inside?
> We have a pot belly stove, coal scuttle, blue speckled coffee pot, slant top desk and other items that may have been inside. My wife and I are donating an old iron bench, as there is one in the B&W 1972 photo.
> You show the hole in the roof, you didn't have to cut that out did you?
> The hole is from the factory, made specifically for a stove pipe.
> Stupid question,
> Nice job on the door & windows but when you said hot I wondered if the windows open. They open right? I guess back then there were no screens to keep bugs out?
> It must get real hot inside that?
> The windows are screwed shut for safety reasons, but I made them to function as double hung windows. I'm not sure how far back screens go, but they probably did exist in the thirties. It probably would have been one that would sit in the opening with the weight of the window to hold it in place.
> 
> This is the weather I hate!
> 95* plus 80% humidity. Sucks!
> Be careful.
> 
> The old CNJ station was a work of art.
> For those who never saw it,
> 
> View attachment 204625
> 
> 
> View attachment 204633
> 
> 
> A few more pictures here, (for those interested)
> 
> http://www.terrastories.com/bearings/pa-train-station
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this the old passenger car there?
> I don't know which car is the one in question.
> Check out the old caboose, Don........that caboose has your name all over it.:thumbsup:
> I've had my eye on that caboose for quite some time; maybe we could get both?
> (scroll down a few) http://rypn.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=31696
> 
> View attachment 204641
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you say you would need help....how many society members are there now?


There are about 4 or 5 members who regularly attend meetings, but I doubt that half those would get involved. This would be more of a public outreach, locals interested, high school and college students? 
I've attached the photo showing the iron bench with wood slats.
Don


----------



## Don F

Yesterday, I gave the interior walls a second coat. I knew I didn't have enough paint left, and I thought the color was a bit dark, so I added some flat white to the primer. I am happy with the color now, and all the shadows from years d of age, fires a,d graffiti are history. 
I fabricated a frame support for the slant top desk. It is constructed from 1/2" X 1/2" X 1/8" angle, and 1/8" X 1 1/2" flat stock. I will remove the sill board from the window on the wall that the desk will be mounted on I will also cut the 3?4" overhang on the back of the top so the body will fit flush against the wall. I will anchor the top of the desk through the back wall of the desk to the window frame. The bracket will be anchored to the wall at the bottom using lead shields and square head lag bolts. 
I chose this method so as to allow for both foot space and unobstructed storage under the desk due to the small interior, and the need to store items needed for life in a switching shanty.
Hopefully, My assistant Nick and I can install the bracket. I'll be using the heavy artillery Bosch hammer drill for the concrete, as I had a tough time using a smaller hammer drill and Tapcon screws for the wood frame work.
I built the second bench yesterday, and I'll paint it in the morning after I drop my wife off at work. She starts at 6AM, so it will be an early start to beat the heat. 
I've got to call the lock smith to see if the keys for the deadbolt are ready. That cost was a bit steep to me, $57.50, with part of the cost being donated to the society. 
Don


----------



## Big Ed

That cost was a bit steep to me, $57.50, with part of the cost being donated to the society.

$57.50 for keys! 
What did you get a couple of hundred made up?

You say "part of the cost". Who is paying the other part?
Good ole Don?:dunno:

Man............your name ought to go over the door! :thumbsup:

I will Thank you Don for preserving part of the CNJ's history.
Thanks.:smilie_daumenpos: 

Edit, I read it wrong, so the lock guy is donating part of the cost?


----------



## Don F

Photos from this mornings' desk installation. Nick and I removed the sill trim by using a trim saw to cut through the biscuits, and then pry it with a putty knife. The two nails were removed, and the desk was positioned and attached to the frame using 2 #12 X 2 inch slotted wood screws through the two pre drilled holes in the back of the desk.
Next, the metal frame was attached using 3/16" X 1" Tapcon screws into the concrete. The lid was re attached, and Nick adjusted the screw that holds the lid from falling. 
I noticed the interior brass escutcheon plate on the inside door knob was crooked, so I adjusted that, and Nick secured the outside plate with two screws. We're ready for the stove!
Don
View attachment 207977


View attachment 207985


View attachment 207993


View attachment 208001


View attachment 208009


View attachment 208017


View attachment 208041


View attachment 208049


View attachment 208065


View attachment 208073


View attachment 208081


View attachment 208089


----------



## thysell

Hi Don,

I've really enjoyed your restoration. Can't seem to view the latest attachments though.

Pete


----------



## Big Ed

thysell said:


> Hi Don,
> 
> I've really enjoyed your restoration. Can't seem to view the latest attachments though.
> 
> Pete


I can't see them either, something went wrong Don.


----------



## Don F

I wasn't even able to edit this when I noticed the SNAFU, so I'll re post. Here are the photos of the desk installation again. A moderator can delete the prior post.


----------



## Big Ed

The desk looks great Don, I love the patina. :smilie_daumenpos:

Put a potbelly stove in it yet?


----------



## Don F

Big Ed said:


> The desk looks great Don, I love the patina. :smilie_daumenpos:
> 
> Put a potbelly stove in it yet?


Not yet Ed, I've asked the guy who has it several times when we could install it, and this was back in August and September. On another note, I did get some period hardware for the windows. Our religious ed center was a former convent probably built in the 20's or 30's with all double hung windows. We had them replaced recently, and the contractor put the old sashes aside for me to get the latches. Hopefully, both projects will be completed in the spring. A friend is a retired reporter/editor of one of the local papers, and he asked me the same question, as he has wanted to do a follow up story on the shanty with the completed interior. 
Don


----------



## Don F

This article was in a recent Citizens' Voice publication.
Development will continue this year at Anthracite Miners’ Memorial park
PAUL GOLIAS / PUBLISHED: FEBRUARY 6, 2017



A walking path around the perimeter of the Anthracite Miners’ Memorial Park on South Main Street, Ashley, is a key component of work planned for 2017.

Ray Clarke, chairman of the board of the Huber Breaker Preservation Society, said the path will allow visitors to spend some quiet time and reflect on the region’s anthracite heritage.

The society continues to develop the park.

While the historic Huber Breaker is gone, Clarke said kiosks will tell the story of coal mining: the men who went underground, and the wives and families who tended to the miners’ homes.

The breaker, which sat to the west of the park, was sold for its scrap value.

Clarke said the parking lot at the site, which can now accommodate about 15 cars, will be expanded.

Extensive landscaping is planned this year, he said, after flower beds were installed last year.

Railroad-related items will be completed this year also, Clarke said.

A switchman’s shanty that once sat in the Central Railroad of New Jersey yard near the breaker was rebuilt by Don Kane of Ashley, and a vintage coal stove donated by Leo Czereck of Wilkes-Barre Township will be installed. A track-side signal that once sat next to Ashley Town Hall will be wired and erected near the shanty, and some railroad tracks laid in the park.

Clarke said it is uncertain if one of the two coal mine cars donated to the park will be ready this year. One car is being restored by students at Wilkes-Barre Area Career and Technology School.

Previous improvements and installations at the park include the miners’ memorial, dedicated on Memorial Day in 2013, a walkway from a gate on South Main Street to the memorial, a sign that once marked the colliery entrance, a new flag pole, benches, and a replica of the powder house in which Blue Coal Corporation and its predecessors stored dynamite taken into the mines to blast coal seams.

The society’s work got a major boost when a $250,000 state Department of Community and Economic Development grant was approved.

“The breaker may be gone, but we are determined to complete this park as a testament to the miners and their families who struggled to survive,” Clarke said.

The society tried for decades to save the breaker and to create a unique memorial to the tens of thousands of miners who toiled in Northeastern Pennsylvania. That plan died when a U.S. Bankruptcy Court okayed the sale of the breaker and 26 acres of land to Paselo Logistics of Philadelphia.

History

The Huber Breaker, which opened in 1939, was named after Charles F. Huber, chairman of Glen Alden Coal Company. Glen Alden was the predecessor of Blue Coal Corporation. It replaced a breaker built in 1895. The Huber mine and breaker employed 1,700 people at its peak. The coal was sold throughout the eastern United States and most was hauled out by the Central Railroad of New Jersey, which had a major yard adjacent to the colliery.

Huber Breaker Preservation Society

• Huber Breaker Preservation Society is on Facebook and it has a website at huberbreaker.org.

• Volunteers are needed to aid in painting and landscaping this year. Individuals or groups interested can contact Ray Clarke at 570-824-3176.

• Donations can be made to the Huber Breaker Preservation Society at Corner Post Federal Credit Union, P.O. Box 1172, Wilkes-Barre, PA 18703.

• The society plans to hold its annual chicken barbecue on the Sunday after Labor Day at the Ashley Firemen’s Park. Money raised is used to pay water and electricity bills, he said.


----------



## Big Ed

A switchman’s shanty that once sat in the Central Railroad of New Jersey yard near the breaker was rebuilt by Don Kane of Ashley, and a vintage coal stove donated by Leo Czereck of Wilkes-Barre Township will be installed. A track-side signal that once sat next to Ashley Town Hall will be wired and erected near the shanty, and some railroad tracks laid in the park.

Cool your name is in the history books now.:thumbsup:
Great you have a stove, it will be a nice addition for the shanty.
Look for an old coal bucket/with a shovel and an old coffee pot?
Some used to have a wooden coal storage box outside too.


----------



## Don F

Big Ed said:


> A switchman’s shanty that once sat in the Central Railroad of New Jersey yard near the breaker was rebuilt by Don Kane of Ashley, and a vintage coal stove donated by Leo Czereck of Wilkes-Barre Township will be installed. A track-side signal that once sat next to Ashley Town Hall will be wired and erected near the shanty, and some railroad tracks laid in the park.
> 
> Cool your name is in the history books now.:thumbsup:
> Great you have a stove, it will be a nice addition for the shanty.
> Look for an old coal bucket/with a shovel and an old coffee pot?
> Some used to have a wooden coal storage box outside too.


Ed, we have everything ready, just waiting for the spring weather. I do have to take the outer window stops out, because I put the upper sashes in upside down. I also got window latches form our education center at church. It was a former convent built in the 20's or 30's We had the windows replaced, and the contractor, a parishioner and friend, saved some of the hardware for me. I am working on the model. It is going slowly, as I have made several modifications to more closely replicate the prototype. 
Don


----------



## Don F

A photo of the nearly complete model, and the prototype:


----------



## 89Suburban

Damn that looks good!


----------



## Don F

89Suburban said:


> Damn that looks good!


Thank you.
Don


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## Big Ed

Nice spot for it sitting in around the trees. 

Curious, did the real shanties doors open towards the inside or outside? (sorry if I asked this before I can't remember if I did)
Did the real one you have have a door or did it have the door hinges on it when you got it?

As they didn't have much room inside I would think opening to the outside would have been more beneficial.


----------



## Don F

Big Ed said:


> Nice spot for it sitting in around the trees.
> 
> Curious, did the real shanties doors open towards the inside or outside? (sorry if I asked this before I can't remember if I did)
> Did the real one you have have a door or did it have the door hinges on it when you got it?
> 
> As they didn't have much room inside I would think opening to the outside would have been more beneficial.


Ed, 
I questioned the swing of the door before I got to that point, and was told by our "RR expert", that the door should swing in. In my mind, I'm like you, and think it more logical to swing out. 
The shanty was nothing more then a concrete shell, with now windows or door. I fabricated everything from the frames to the window sashes. I had a head start on the door, as I used one from our convent at church, and split it in two, and cut it down to fit the opening. My website has the entire process from start to finish, and there are many photos on this thread. 
Don


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## Don F

A first attempt forced perspective photo of the CNJ shanty and the River Leaf Models kit. I couldn't see both structures in the view finder because the sun was so bright, so out of about a dozen photos, this is the best one. I will try again, hopefully the stove and shelf will be installed then.
Don


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## Big Ed

Hi Don, pretty good.
The perspective looks good to me but what do I know.

I think you might make it better if you place it on the gravel and off of whatever it is sitting on now?
To make it like it is sitting on the ground?

Nice weather coming, you should be back to fabricating something soon again.
I will look forward to your next adventure.:smilie_daumenpos:


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## Don F

Hi Ed,
This was more of an experimental attempt to get a feel for distance and focus. I am going to make a gravel platform to put the model on, and try on a day when the sun is in a different location, or partially obscured. My son sent me a link explaining how to take this type of photo, so I will be better prepared for the next attempt.
As far as projects go, I have to take the upper sashes out, as I put them in upside down! I have latch hardware for them that I got from our former convent now education center when we had new windows installed. I have the shelf to hang, and then we will put in the pot belly stove, the piping, and all the other interior details. We also plan to put in a light.
Happy Easter,
Don


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## Big Ed

Happy Easter back to you.

I just noticed from the picture, what is that a water tower base I see behind it? 

Maybe take the forced perspective picture from a different angle so the big base of it does not take away from what your trying to get? 

Upside down? Ha Ha Ha sucks getting old huh? 

Maybe no one but your expert would have noticed.
Did he notice? 

An old goose neck lamp would look good on the outside too over the door.
If not on the structure itself on a post mounted base on the outside.


----------



## Don F

Big Ed said:


> Happy Easter back to you.
> 
> I just noticed from the picture, what is that a water tower base I see behind it?
> 
> Maybe take the forced perspective picture from a different angle so the big base of it does not take away from what your trying to get?
> 
> Upside down? Ha Ha Ha sucks getting old huh?
> 
> Maybe no one but your expert would have noticed.
> Did he notice?
> 
> An old goose neck lamp would look good on the outside too over the door.
> If not on the structure itself on a post mounted base on the outside.


The concrete structure behind the shanty is the smoke stack for the power house. 
There aren't too many viable options for a photo, as much of the area is on a slope, and rises quickly moving left, (east), and falls off going west. There is a concrete revetment to the west that is flat, but I'm not sure if the signal tower would obstruct the view. It also may be too close for a comparative shot.
Even if no one noticed, (which no one did), I still have to correct them so the latches can be installed.
Don


----------



## Don F

The pot belly stove was placed in the shanty a few days ago, and is awaiting piping, which will get under way next week, after York!
The next project is the CNJ tower signal; it needs to be re-painted, and wired to work as a functioning signal. Painting will get underway soon.
Don


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## Big Ed

Cool looking old stove. :thumbsup:

Is that missing a leg/foot? Or is it three legged?


----------



## Don F

Big Ed said:


> Cool looking old stove. :thumbsup:
> 
> Is that missing a leg/foot? Or is it three legged?


To tell the truth Ed, I don't know. I didn't put it in the shanty, and never even noticed until you questioned it. I have seen three legged stoves, so I'll check the next time I'm at the park. I'm waiting to hear from a local hardware store about a possible donation of all or part of the piping, and from Sherwin Williams for a donation of paint for our CNJ tower signal.
Don


----------



## Big Ed

Yeah there are 3 legged stoves.
A little history,

With its original roots dating back to 1848, the March Brownback Stove Company started fabricating stoves in Limerick Square; now known as Linfield.Â In 1892, the March Brownback families moved their location to South Street ( Pottstown) where the plant remained a primary stove manufacturer until 1946.

I wonder what year yours is?

You got a picture of the tower?
What colors is it going to be?

We deliver many many gallons of chemicals to Sherwin Williams plants around the East coast.
I just had a delivery of 7000 gals of Methanol to Baltimore the other day, we supply a lot of different chemicals to them and Rustoleum.


----------



## Don F

I'll see if I can get a date of manufacture. You sure know your stoves! The tower is about 30 feet high two signal silver pole. 
The signals are black. I will take photos as I continue work.
Don


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## Big Ed

Yes I do 
I googled the name lol.


----------



## Don F

I was finally able to get to the park to begin the piping for the pot belly stove. I got the bulk of the piping complete. I have to install the damper, a decorative collar at the peak of the ceiling, and a plate at the top f the roof to seal the elements from getting into the hole around the pipe. I am using 6 inch pipe, and an 8 pipe as a double wall on top of a tapered piece of galvanized 20 gauge steel to extend beyond the 8 inch pipe. I also have to make a wider piece o the same material to extend the 6 inch cap beyond the 8 inch outer pipe. Somewhere in my files, I have a photo showing this as prototypical. Since it didn't take too long to mock up the piping, I removed all the upper sashes that I installed upside down, and replaced them in their correct orientation. Now I can install the latches. 
Don


----------



## Wood

Nice job Don.


----------



## Don F

Thanks Wood. This morning I finished the piping in the scorching heat> I was done by 11 AM, and I was soaked! I tried to post some pics yesterday of the fabrication of some of the parts that I did at home, but for some reason I couldn't type anything. Here are the final photos starting with the pre-fabbed and ending with installation at the park. The first two are of a cardboard template I made to make sure the roof cap would work.














Photos 3 and 4 are of the roof[ cap; I used 20 gauge galvanized for the roof cap and the pipe cap, as well as all the mounting brackets. I want this thin to outlast my kids!














Photos 5 and 6 are the bender and shear at our maintenance shop at the school district I work for.














Photos 7,8 and 9 are the pipe caps. The decorative cap is a 6 inch donor cap that I used the collar from to adapt it to the cap I made. This is to cover beyond the 8 inch outer rain barrier pipe.





















The next 4 photos show the pre-fab roof assembly mock-up. I used a piece of expanded metal for a critter screen. I also installed the damper in the interior section of piping, not shown in these photos.




























The next 8 photos are of the installation of the roof assembly. I eliminated the decorative collar shown in the pre fab photos.
























































The next 2 photos are of the inside piping with damper installed and decorative collar at the ceiling.














The completed exterior piping from 4 views




























Next up is to run the electricity for the interior light, and add the phone, 1974 calendar, ( the year CNJ pulled out of PA), a newspaper article detailing the pullout.


----------



## Wood

Phew, what have I missed??? I read this thread from the beginning. What an excellent recreation of this shanty. There are so many threads on this forum and I just don't have the time to search through everything that is going on. Thankfully you posted on the O Scale forum, which brought me to this interesting thread. Not only do you do solid work but, you have a talent for telling a story.

One comment on the stove pipe. It would be my inclination that the pipe was secured to the wall with a bracket at the first joint, up from the top of the stove. Your work is very strong and everything is screwed in solidly, for now. Both workers of old and tourist of now will be shaking that stove pipe just to see how it tight it is. 20 years from now it will cant and a bracket would extend the stability 20 more years. 

The best of luck with the passenger car. That would be fascinating.


----------



## Don F

Wood said:


> Phew, what have I missed??? I read this thread from the beginning. What an excellent recreation of this shanty. There are so many threads on this forum and I just don't have the time to search through everything that is going on. Thankfully you posted on the O Scale forum, which brought me to this interesting thread. Not only do you do solid work but, you have a talent for telling a story.
> 
> One comment on the stove pipe. It would be my inclination that the pipe was secured to the wall with a bracket at the first joint, up from the top of the stove. Your work is very strong and everything is screwed in solidly, for now. Both workers of old and tourist of now will be shaking that stove pipe just to see how it tight it is. 20 years from now it will cant and a bracket would extend the stability 20 more years.
> 
> The best of luck with the passenger car. That would be fascinating.


Thank you Wood. I will take your advice, and add a brace as you suggest. I am also going to place a heat shield in the area where the pipe passes the shelf. I didn't have tin snips with me to cut one from a remnant of the 8 inch pipe, so that will be a project for another day. Unfortunately, a developer bought the 
land where the passenger cars and other rolling stock were, and I think they may have all been scrapped. We do have a double light tower signal that is due for re-painting, and a bracket needs to be welded and a section of ladder straightened. I may get to that this week, as I'm on vacation.
Don


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## highvoltage

Don F said:


> ...The completed exterior piping from 4 views
> View attachment 329354
> 
> View attachment 329362
> 
> View attachment 329370
> 
> View attachment 329378
> ...


That's excellent Don. Do they have any plans to cut back the trees around the shanty so it's more visible?


----------



## Nikola

I spotted one on the Staten Island Railway (nee SIRT).

I took this photo a week or so ago. I was wondering what it was and now I know. BTW, the SIR right-of-way dates to 1860 and was owned by the B&O until the 70s.


----------



## Don F

Nikola said:


> I spotted one on the Staten Island Railway (nee SIRT).
> 
> I took this photo a week or so ago. I was wondering what it was and now I know. BTW, the SIR right-of-way dates to 1860 and was owned by the B&O until the 70s.
> 
> View attachment 330482


That is the smaller version, which is about half the size as our shanty. These had many uses, and this one may have been a phone shanty. There is one like it outside a scrap yard in nearby Wilkes-Barre.


----------



## Don F

highvoltage said:


> That's excellent Don. Do they have any plans to cut back the trees around the shanty so it's more visible?


Thank you. There is construction at the park now, to expand the parking area, and re configure the lower level access where the shanty and signal tower at located. I will ask about the trees at our meeting tonight. I thought the same thing as I was working on the shanty.


----------



## Nikola

Don F said:


> That is the smaller version, which is about half the size as our shanty. These had many uses, and this one may have been a phone shanty. There is one like it outside a scrap yard in nearby Wilkes-Barre.


:smilie_daumenpos: :smilie_daumenpos: :smilie_daumenpos:


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## teledoc

Don, I applaud your perseverance, with tackling this restoration, and trying to get all the little details with the inside work. The finished product will be outstanding. I have followed this restoration, no matter how long it has taken to show the updates. You have done some amazing work to date.:smilie_daumenpos::smilie_daumenpos::appl::appl::appl:


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## Big Ed

Excellent job on the vent pipe Don.:smilie_daumenpos:
Heat shield? 
Would be kind of hard to get the concrete burning?

Now all the piping needs is a grimy black paint job? 
It is too shiny?

I might have asked already but, do you have an old coal bucket for the inside with an old little hand shovel for it?


----------



## Don F

Big Ed said:


> Excellent job on the vent pipe Don.:smilie_daumenpos:
> Heat shield?
> Would be kind of hard to get the concrete burning?
> 
> Now all the piping needs is a grimy black paint job?
> It is too shiny?
> 
> I might have asked already but, do you have an old coal bucket for the inside with an old little hand shovel for it?


Thanks Big Ed. The heat shield would be in the area where the piping passes by the shelf. We'll check it out when we burn the first bucket of coal. We do have a coal scuttle and shovel, and there are three buckets of coal waiting for the park re-dedication next month. In time, the piping will age and turn black around the top.


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