# Train Table Help



## Hank Rearden (Dec 30, 2014)

I've seen different options on train tables and decided I'm going to simply build the 4x8 table that Lionel has a YouTube video for.

I am not much of a handy man and could use some advice on the plywood and 2x4's to purchase. There are many different kinds of plywood at my Lowe's store including some for roofing, flooring, and some nicer finished looking pieces.

There are also different options for 2x4's as well. I would imagine I should get some nicer looking ones since I will be painting them and be looking at them all the time.

Lastly, no one that I talked with in my Lowes has heard of homasote. Even I have at least heard of it. They directed me towards something called Imp Sheath R-1.3, which sort of looks like cork board. Would that work for the surface sound dampening?

Cost isn't a huge issue for me in creating the table since I want it to look nice. I do know that all I want right now is a 4x8 table so no need to try and persuade me otherwise. 

Any advice is greatly appreciated.


----------



## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Welcome, I could talk you into more but lets get to the questions! As for sound dampening, what kind of track? Thats a biggie! I would use half inch plywood, the grade dosent really matter but if in a basement get the cdx outdoor stuff. You can even go quarter inch with a better support system. Think more stringers supporting the board. I think 2 by 4s are over kill for a tabletop, I built mine that way and its way to heavy! 1 by 3s of your a bad carpenter or less! You can glue a sheet of foam board to the top to help with sound, get the solid type and then you can carve out depressions or add a bot of an incline easily. If just painting plywood, thats OK too, get a smother finish on one side. People here will give lots of good advice, think and plan first. Then build! Also , in case you need it, I put rollers that are adjustable, for height, on my legs, easy to move, and level! Most of all have fun, search some threads on building layouts . Lots of stuff!


----------



## Hank Rearden (Dec 30, 2014)

sjm9911 said:


> Welcome, I could talk you into more but lets get to the questions! As for sound dampening, what kind of track? Thats a biggie! I would use half inch plywood, the grade dosent really matter but if in a basement get the cdx outdoor stuff. You can even go quarter inch with a better support system. Think more stringers supporting the board. I think 2 by 4s are over kill for a tabletop, I built mine that way and its way to heavy! 1 by 3s of your a bad carpenter or less! You can glue a sheet of foam board to the top to help with sound, get the solid type and then you can carve out depressions or add a bot of an incline easily. If just painting plywood, thats OK too, get a smother finish on one side. People here will give lots of good advice, think and plan first. Then build! Also , in case you need it, I put rollers that are adjustable, for height, on my legs, easy to move, and level! Most of all have fun, search some threads on building layouts . Lots of stuff!


Lionel Fastrack is what I have.


----------



## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Fasttrack is loud. I don't use it , except around my Christmas tree! So I cant help much, I know someone talked about sandwichin the ply wood in foam. Or I always thought the very nature of Fasttrack, hollow made it loud, filling it would be work but might silence it. Just an unproven idea, I personally like a little loud! I was always thinking of setting the Fasttrack in struct o light. Like how some people put in fiberglass tubs, mix up a batch, set the track. Have the wires in first , then let it dry! It should set the track so iT dosent move. Also its lighter then plaster. Its an idea but probably a lot of work and its never been tried to my knowledge.


----------



## Hank Rearden (Dec 30, 2014)

sjm9911 said:


> Fasttrack is loud. I don't use it , except around my Christmas tree! So I cant help much, I know someone talked about sandwichin the ply wood in foam. Or I always thought the very nature of Fasttrack, hollow made it loud, filling it would be work but might silence it. Just an unproven idea, I personally like a little loud! I was always thinking of setting the Fasttrack in struct o light. Like how some people put in fiberglass tubs, mix up a batch, set the track. Have the wires in first , then let it dry! It should set the track so iT dosent move. Also its lighter then plaster. Its an idea but probably a lot of work and its never been tried to my knowledge.


Thanks for the advice. For now I'm going with what I have regarding track. Just need to get a table built. Lol


----------



## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Its a good system, don't get me wrong. I didn't say to get new track, just that yours is noisy! Ive got three rail o gauge track, old school. Fasttrack is loud, and since you mentioned sound dampering, I thought I would throw that at ya! The hemosite is just another kind of particle board. It was made of all saw dust in the 50s, I haven't seen it around lately but I never look for it. It also absorbes water and not too strong as it ages.


----------



## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*Building your own ho train table has fond memories.*

For the table, I suggest going as big as your able. I wright this because, the largest possible
radius assures prototypical operation. Now, when your assembling the wood pieces. I also suggest following a plan. These plans may be obtained from your local hobby shop, most likely.As was mentioned earlier, 2x4's are over kill.1x5's will do just fine. I also suggest to
use ~3/8"plywood.These last two suggestions will definitely help keep, the weight down and 
keep it more manageable for the inevitable move. It's also nice, to have the table on wheels
in order to move it around an uncluttered basement. Good luck on building your dream layout
Regard's tr1


----------



## jesteck (Apr 15, 2014)

Homasote is NOT a plywood or OSB or flakeboard product. It's made of pressed and glued paper, much like a papier-mache. The stuff has been around a long time- over a century- and is quite sturdy, though susceptible to fraying on the edges. It's pretty effective at sound deadening due to its density, and it is relatively lightweight, holds nails better than foam or cork, and can be used structurally. It's also hard to find these days. I think I'd go with nominal 3/8 CD ply for the table and 1x4 stripping for the framing and legs. 2x4's are definitely overkill, tend to warp more (especially from a home supply), and add extra weight and longer fasteners. You should be able to build the whole thing with Elmer's carpenter glue and 1 1/4" drywall screws.


----------



## Hank Rearden (Dec 30, 2014)

Plytanium 15/32 x 4 x 8 Pine Sanded Plywood - Carried locally.

There is also a 23/32 for another $10. I think the general consensus is that 15/32 would be more than sufficient.

I think I'm going to go with one of the above. I'm heading to the train store later today to see if they can help me decide on a potential sound barrier layer. I may just wait until after I get the table built and figure that piece out.

Now to figure out the framing and legs. 

Construction/building is not my specialty unfortunately so I'll just be happy to get a decent table built.


----------



## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

I used 1/2 inch plywood for the table top. and 2x4's for the legs and perimeter.My layout is a L shaped one, 12' on the 2 long legs, and 6' on the short runs.The oldest part of the layout was built 21 years ago, and still as good as the day I built it.


----------



## Hank Rearden (Dec 30, 2014)

flyernut said:


> I used 1/2 inch plywood for the table top. and 2x4's for the legs and perimeter.My layout is a L shaped one, 12' on the 2 long legs, and 6' on the short runs.The oldest part of the layout was built 21 years ago, and still as good as the day I built it.


Sounds very much like what I am looking for. :smilie_daumenpos:


----------



## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

Hank

I tend to overbuild. I used 2x4s for framing and 1/2" plywood for the top. Most of the material was from shelves which I removed to make the table. As time went on, more and more shelves were removed 

If I were to do it again, I would use 1/2" plywood and 1x4s for the framing. A perimeter of 1x4 glued and screwed to the plywood with stretchers every 16" to 24" will be fine. For the legs, screw 2 1x4s together to make an "L". Add some 1x4 legs and diagonal bracing and you will be good to go. 

You aren't making a dance floor, but you could still sit on it to work if needed. Use plenty of wood glue and paint the plywood before the first piece of track goes down.

Have fun, and be prepared to expand.

Dave


----------



## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

I used 2x3s for table legs, Look good and easy to work with and also easy to add leveling screws thingies,
You'll want a level table. 1x4s for framing and 1x3s for cross braces.

1/2" plywood for the top because I had it. 1" foam board on top of that for elevation changes, rivers, etc.

Magic


----------

