# New guy.



## Drnosty (Apr 19, 2019)

Hello all,
I'm new to the site and while I've been formulating a potential layout in my head for many years, I've finally retired and decided it is time to bring those formulations to reality.

I've been ghosting this forum for quite a while and have seen some amazing interaction and advice so I decided it was time to ask a few questions of those in the know. 

I'm definitely set on N scale and I've been reading Model Railroader and numerous forums, but I'd like a few opinions from those who have actually tried some of the products.

For starters, what track is the most recommended? I've been looking at the Kato Unitrack but it just doesn't look realistic to me and I can imagine painting and ballasting it would be more of a chore than it would be worth. Is there another company that makes similar track that's more realistic looking?

I'm looking to model a North East style railroad in the 50's era when there was still some steam and the older F1's in use.

I'm wide open to suggestions and while money is an object, it's not a determining factor. It has been my experience that buying cheap will usually leave you disappointed and wanting more.

Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.


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## GNfan (Jun 3, 2016)

*Welcome*

My best advice is this: Unless you've spent your life building and painting car, ship, or airplane models (which I haven't); you should check out what rolling stock you can actually buy before you decide what prototype you plan to model. If you're limited to ready-to-run equipment, you're likely to be disappointed. Most people here use modeltrainstuff.com and I also use hobbylinc.com as online hobby shops and they can give you an idea what's actually made. I don't mean to "rain on your parade"; but if you're thinking (for example) "I want steam pulling coal, early diesel pulling mixed freight, and someday a GG-1 pulling a Pennsy passenger train" . . . well, you can get the GG-1.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Kato Unitrack is the best of the so-called "roadbed" sectional tracks.

Most modelers who aspire to large model empires eventually gravitate to flex track, which is almost unlimited in its possible configurations. Just use turnouts, crossings, etc. from the stock pieces (nothing wrong with Atlas for crossings, bumpers, etc, and Peco, Walthers (temporarily in short supply) or Atlas Custom Line for turnouts.

Foam or cork roadbed under your mainline track gives it a realistic profile and helps to deaden sound.

Yes, weathering and ballasting track can be tedious, but if you want it to look like the real thing, you don't have much choice.

Don't be in a hurry. Take your time and enjoy the journey. And remember: Your layout, your rules. If you want to do it, there's no reason why you shouldn't try.


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## 65446 (Sep 22, 2018)

Hi. I personally despise all those all those track brands which are made with the simulated ballast. Aside from the toyish look and not correctly spaced ties, they are fixed shape panels which forces too angular-perfect a layout. The only perfect curves and straights (actually spirals and tangents in RR surveyor lingo) are found on big mainline right of way especially where passenger trains run .
You'll have a way more realistic looking RR if you employ flex track by Atlas, Piko, ME. which is put on top of cork or foam. To lay the cork out, you pencil in the center line of the main onto the sub roadbed (ply/extruded foam/Homasote sub-roadbed). The 3' cork stips split in half lengthwise. Using white glue you follow the pencil line all the way on one side of the line and use push pins and weights to hold cork while drying. Then add the other side of cork following first side..Track is glued/pinned on top. After it's all in, do the ballast sprinkling method (look up the how-to).. Note: when making a loop which would need 2 or more 3' flex pieces, first solder the 2-3 together while perfectly straight (the track that is !). Then when you do bend them there will be no kink where they meet.
Soon as poss buy Xuron Rail Nippers. This is a must in this hobby. When cutting excess rail away with these, you cut top to bottom, not side to side and with the flat side of the jaws against the good rail being installed. 
Benchwork: You need to decide which method; flat board (problematic to build a good RR on), open-grid, or L girder..I like grid. Good to build so that the RR is about as high up as your chest area so as to not be looking down at the trains, but more across from..
Finally for now: I'd go with DCC control (I favor NCE PowerCab) and with "sound onboard" locos. ..
Of course there are lots of how-to vids and explainations in this forum and/or books and on Utube... 
Oh, I hope you're still young as N can be tough to work on for elders. HO is better that way. But N can be great, too...
Hope this shed some light on the beginning stages.... M


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

Do consider your eyesight (or lack thereof), manual dexterity, and your level of patients for working with N scale.

Big ham hands are going to have a harder time railing a locomotive or rolling stock, and combined with failing or not-so-good eyesight anymore is going to compound the problem.

Trackwork is also more unforgiving than larger scales and more attention to detail is important for smaller scales using lighter weight cars, and smaller wheels and flanges to keep them on the rails.

Impressive layouts in a smaller space is a great advantage of N scale if everything else falls into place.


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## Drnosty (Apr 19, 2019)

Thank you all for the responses. I do appreciate it. And I do intend to take this very slowly. It's been about fifty years in the making-since my first Lionel set back in the sixties. I was just looking for some guidance to start off on the right foot and not end up buying a bunch of junk that will sit, unused, forever. 

Thank you.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*N-scale advice*



Drnosty said:


> Hello all,
> I'm new to the site and while I've been formulating a potential layout in my head for many years, I've finally retired and decided it is time to bring those formulations to reality.
> 
> I've been ghosting this forum for quite a while and have seen some amazing interaction and advice so I decided it was time to ask a few questions of those in the know.
> ...



Drnosty;


As a multi-decades N-scaler, These are my recommendations.

Most realistic-looking track: Micro Engineering code 55 flex track. It's what I use, specifically because of it's very realistic appearance. You have to see it to believe the difference in realism. 

Weathering track: I paint mine, but Micro Engineering sells their track with pre "weathered" rail. They also sell their weathering solution, which can be added to rail at any time.
An easy way to weather both the rail, and ties, is a series of light sprays, from a distance of two feet or more, and from different directions, with Krylon rust brown primer; from a spray can.
I prefer to hand brush, or better yet airbrush, a mix of my favorite model paint, Tamiya acrylics. (Any other brand of flat, decent quality, model paint would work as well.)
I paint the ties, or the entire track if airbrushing, first, and then hand brush the rails. I may also add chalk and ink wash for special effects.

Roadbed: Either commercial cork, or foam, roadbed will work well. The foam type is a bit easier when laying curves, but neither is really "hard" to work with at all. I would use either latex caulk, or contact cement, to hold the roadbed to the base, and the track to the roadbed. 
I use wood roadbed that I cut from 1/8" Luan plywood. I make my own turnouts with 1/8" Luan as a base, so I use the same roadbed for the track too.

Turnouts: Peco (excellent), or Micro Engineering (close second) Micro Engineering has the advantage in looks, but they are somewhat delicate and require careful handling while installing. They also have a very limited selection, #6 right and #6 left. That's it, though its all most modelers would likely need. M/E turnouts come very close to meeting all NMRA standards, right out of the box. Their guard rail flangeways are a tiny bit tight. I fixed this with one light pass with a Dremel tool to widen them. M/E turnouts also come "DCC compatible" in that they have isolated metal frogs.

Pecos are more ruggedly built. Like nearly all commercial turnouts, their flangeways, and frogs are too wide, and too deep, to meet the specs of an NMRA gage. Despite this though,they also have a long-standing reputation for few/no derailments. If it works don't fix it.
Peco makes three basic types of turnouts, in many sizes, and configurations, including wye turnouts, and curved turnouts.

The three types are: 

1) "Insulfrog" (plastic frog, power routing.) Note: The power routing can be disabled with insulated rail joiners on the two short rails from the frog.

2) "Electrofrog" (Metal frog with the option of powering.)

3) "Unifrog" A new type just being introduced and destined to ultimately replace both the two preceding types. It has a metal isolated frog which can be powered. This turnout makes it easy to convert it to a "DCC friendly/compatible" configuration by jumpering the stock, and point rails to each other, on either side.


Locomotives: Kato (excellent across their whole roster) 

Cars: Micro-Trains (excellent quality and detail freight and passenger cars) The cars come with plastic wheels, but Micro-Trains, and others, sell metal replacement wheels. They also come with Micro-Trains excellent couplers attached.

Kato also offers excellent quality passenger cars. Usually in sets based on famous name passenger trains like the Santa Fe Super Chief and many others. The Kato couplers that come with these cars work very well with each other, but not so well with other brands of couplers. If you plan to do any switching of passenger cars, then I suggest replacing the Kato couplers with Micro-Trains ones.

Couplers: (Micro-Trains) Most cars produced in the last few years come with some form of knuckle couplers attached. Some are better than others. None are better than Micro-Trains. I suggest using the car with whatever knuckle couplers come on it. If you have problems, replace the couplers with Micro-Trains.

DCC controllers: I use the NCE ProCab It' s very simple to hook up (two wires) program, and use. There are other good brands too, in fact they're all good. The NMRA standards for DCC mean that you can use a Digitrax, or NCE, controller to operate a locomotive with a tsunami, lens, or any other brand, decoder in it. All the brands use the same digital signals on the track, so all brands are compatible with the other brands.

The pdf files below have much more information on many model railroad subjects. Browse through them if you wish.

Have fun;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:

View attachment WHERE DO I START 3.pdf


View attachment 1 How to build a better first layout.pdf


View attachment 2 How to build a better first layout.pdf


View attachment 3 & 4 How to build a better first layout.pdf


View attachment 5 How to build a better first layout.pdf


View attachment 6 How to build a better first layout.pdf


View attachment All AboutTurnouts rev-3.pdf


View attachment MODEL RAILROADING ON A BUDGET.pdf


View attachment Model Railroad Terminology 2.2.pdf


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## Drnosty (Apr 19, 2019)

Wow! Now that's exactly the type of information I was looking for. Thank you, Traction Fan. And thank you for the PDF's. I'll definitely read through them all. I really appreciate the response, especially given your years of experience in N scale. Have a fantastic day.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Retired "geezer" options*



Drnosty said:


> Wow! Now that's exactly the type of information I was looking for. Thank you, Traction Fan. And thank you for the PDF's. I'll definitely read through them all. I really appreciate the response, especially given your years of experience in N scale. Have a fantastic day.


Drnosty;

You mentioned that you had recently retired. I'm 70 and have been retired for several years. As I got older, I have learned a few things about age as applied to model railroading. Here's my list.

1) The notion of N-scale being too small for "baby boomers" to cope with is a bit like Mark Twain's remark that "The rumors of my death are largely exaggerated.":laugh: Whether you can, or can't, handle any of the scales is very much an individual matter. At seventy, I am just now starting to experience some difficulty with shaky hands, but then besides my age, I have a nerve disorder which doesn't help a bit. So I won't say that age has no effect, it's just not anything as bad as it is often portrayed.

My first train was an O-gage Marx tinplate affair.
As a teen I modeled in HO-scale, and I've got about 40 years in N-scale now. Each change downward in scale required a re-think about what was possible for me to work with. At first HO-scale seemed impossibly small to me when I was used to the larger O-scale stuff. The same thing happened when I switched from HO-scale to N-scale. In both cases, once I had actually worked in the new smaller scale a while, it became "normal size" to me. From that point on, I found I could do anything in N-scale that I could do in HO-scale. This includes scratch-building, kit bashing, track laying, making my own turnouts, and whatever else I feel like doing. (The attached photos show the results of some of my efforts in scratch-building N-scale structures.)

2) Build your layout in small, lightweight, easy-to handle sections. It is immensely easier to do "under-the -table" things like wiring and mounting switch machines, when you don't need to go under the table at all. Take one section to the workbench, turn it upside down, and sit in a comfortable chair while you work. This also means you can easily take the railroad with you if you move instead of trashing years of work and starting over. 

3) Speaking of comfortable chairs, consider building your layout low enough that you can operate it, and do "on-top-of-the-table tasks, while seated. Building it narrow helps too. Ideally you should be able to reach everything while seated.

4) Avoid duck-unders like the plague! They will hurt your back, head, and whatever other body parts they possibly can.

5) Use extruded foam insulation board as a layout base with minimal/no plywood under it. This keeps things very lightweight and cuts down on the effort and mess of building scenery. 

6) Buy and use an Optivisor. It is old eyes best friend! Recently I bought two different higher magnification, pairs of reading glasses from Amazon. They help a lot, and didn't cost much.

7) Use tools like tweezers and screw starters to handle small parts. They can do it better that fat fingers can. 

8) When experiencing the "fabulous joy"  of mounting couplers and small screws, work on top of a white terry cloth towel spread over the table top. Use weights or tape to secure the towel so it won't slide off the table and send the *&^%^$ parts into "never never land." Never to be seen again. The white color makes it much easier to see the parts, and the terrycloth texture keeps them from rolling off.

Good luck, and have fun;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## Drnosty (Apr 19, 2019)

Thanks again, Traction Fan. Fortunately I was able to retire early. I'm just this side of fifty nine and, with the exception of the usual aches, pains and maladies that are part of our surpassing the age of fifty, I'm still fairly healthy. 

I take your point completely regarding building low, though. This isn't something I plan on doing for a year or two. I'm hoping to start building something that'll last for the remainder of my life so planning ahead for the eventual eventualities of age is a very wise idea. 

As for the scale, I'm dead set on N. Have been almost from my initial plan to start planning. The only thing that ever made me second guess N scale back in the beginning was the availability of some of the accessories and loco types in N. That appears to be changing. The variety of HO versus N used to be vast. Lately I find that gap is closing significantly. 

I spent last evening reading the PDF's you posted. Thank you again for those. They were very enlightening. I spent the remainder of the evening scouring Model Train Stuff and a few of the others. I have a starting point in my mind so it's time to start slowly acquiring the materials to make it a reality.

Again, I greatly appreciate your input. Thank you very much. I look forward to conversing with you again soon. 

Happy Easter!


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*You are welcome*



Drnosty said:


> Thanks again, Traction Fan. Fortunately I was able to retire early. I'm just this side of fifty nine and, with the exception of the usual aches, pains and maladies that are part of our surpassing the age of fifty, I'm still fairly healthy.
> 
> I take your point completely regarding building low, though. This isn't something I plan on doing for a year or two. I'm hoping to start building something that'll last for the remainder of my life so planning ahead for the eventual eventualities of age is a very wise idea.
> 
> ...


Drnosty;

It sounds like you have a good basic grasp on what you want to do. I certainly have no problem with your choice of N-scale. :laugh: It's obviously my favorite too.

Building your layout at your seated shoulder height would let you reach most of a shelf layout while seated, and any of it standing up.
I'm 6'-6" tall and I built my two-level shelf layout with the top shelf at my (standing) eyeball level. This put the lower level a bit too high for convenient access from my rolling, office-type, chair.
We are moving, in a few years, to be closer to the kids and grand kid. Being sectional, I can take my layout with me, and I'm going to mount it lower, at chair reachable level.
Another thing I've done, to keep my old, partially disabled, body out from under the layout, is to move all the electronics, switch motors and most of the wiring up front, just behind the fascia. (see photos) This means I'll be able to reach any stuff that's likely to need maintenance, even from a wheelchair, should that ever become necessary. Only mechanical linkages and track feed wires remain below the layout. Neither is a high maintenance item.

If I may add some more advice, for whatever it's worth. :smilie_auslachen: Most of us have bought more cars and locomotives than we could possibly fit on our railroads. New people especially, and some not-so new-ones too, often buy a wide variety of stuff. Usually, much of what we buy in our "gotta have one of those!" frenzy, later turns out to be something we never use. 
You are wise to do research first, and then to purchase only what fits the railroad that you have in mind. Kudos to you. Not many new model railroaders have sense enough to do what you are doing.

You are also correct when you say the difference in the variety of available products in HO and N scales is very gradually shrinking. I can remember when it was nearly impossible to find an N-scale model of anything American. We have come a long way since.
As long as HO-scale remains the most popular in the U.S. it will always have a bigger product base, simply because it has the biggest customer base.
This "giant gap" in available products is another thing that is often exaggerated. While HO-scale certainly has the most stuff, N-scale has plenty too. There are so many N-scale products available that no one , apart from a few multi-millionaires, could ever afford to buy one of each item available. 
In some cases, in any scale, you may have to adapt some things, and do more kit-bashing and scratch-building, but to me that's part of the fun.

I model the Milwaukee Road in the Seattle area. There are no models of Black River Station, or Seattle Union Station, (the structures shown in the photos attached to my earlier post.) available, in any scale. So I had to adapt parts from some commercial models for the exterior of Union Station, and scratch-build the entire interior. The little train order station at Black River is completely scratch-built from bass wood (structure) and brass (semaphore). You will probably find that you may need to re-paint & decal some cars and locomotives, but again that's fun and very satisfying.

There are virtually no commercial N-scale models of the Milwaukee Road's electric locomotives, so I have to adapt the closest commercial diesel loco mechanism, and scratch-build a body to fit over it. I also scratch-build the catenary (overhead wires) for my electrics. There are a few commercial models of catenary, but they look nothing like Milwaukee catenary, are grossly out-of-scale, and very expensive. So I make my own.
Way back when I started in N-scale, there were no code 55 turnouts made in N-scale. That's why I got started making my own. However, there are now three brands of code 55 N-scale turnouts available. That's certainly progress.

Happy Easter to you too!

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## HockeyFan1972 (Apr 17, 2019)

*Thanks!*

All great points! Im learning from this post too! Did not know KATO made a good engine...with DCC capability.

Paul:smilie_daumenpos:


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Kato locomotives*



HockeyFan1972 said:


> All great points! Im learning from this post too! Did not know KATO made a good engine...with DCC capability.
> 
> Paul:smilie_daumenpos:




Paul;

Yes, Kato makes many excellent diesel locomotives, and a few steamers. Most are DC, but some of the newer offerings feature factory installed DCC and sound options.

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## HockeyFan1972 (Apr 17, 2019)

I am going to go to my local Brick and Mortar place this week and ill look. Still looking for an answer on my Atlas Burlington Northern Engine that i got on Ebay with DCC Decoder installed. 

Did you see that question i asekd? I think i fried it.

Paul


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## TimW (Oct 20, 2018)

Drnosty,

When it comes to taking care of the details after you've laid track, take a look at Shapeways.com and aliexpress.com. Architectural and other detail parts used to be non-existent when it comes to N-Scale, but thanks to the growing number of folks out there who dabble in recreating realism in a very small space, there are hundreds, if not thousands of add-on parts to make your mini-world even more realistic. Enjoy the journey!


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*I don't know*



HockeyFan1972 said:


> I am going to go to my local Brick and Mortar place this week and ill look. Still looking for an answer on my Atlas Burlington Northern Engine that i got on Ebay with DCC Decoder installed.
> 
> Did you see that question i asekd? I think i fried it.
> 
> Paul




Yes, I saw your question about the decoder. I didn't reply because I don't know, indeed can't know, without testing the loco myself, whether you fried your decoder. or not. You could hold the loco up to your nose and see if you can detect any burnt smell. Usually when electronic components burn out, they leave a distinct odor. This isn't always the case however. 
I suggest you take the loco with you to the hobby shop. Someone there may be able to diagnose the problem.

good luck;

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## HockeyFan1972 (Apr 17, 2019)

Yea, it smelled burnt. So i probably fried it, which is what im afraid of. Ill take tit o the shop when i go. Thanks for the reply!

Paul


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## SlowRoll (Apr 2, 2019)

Hey, I joined recently as well and honestly do NOT know what I’m doing. But I quickly discovered that much of the quick advice you get in forums will be from people who live their lives adhering to rules that those starting out in the hobby simply shouldn’t follow.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

SlowRoll said:


> Hey, I joined recently as well and honestly do NOT know what I’m doing. But I quickly discovered that much of the quick advice you get in forums will be from people who live their lives adhering to rules that those starting out in the hobby simply shouldn’t follow.


Huh?

Some people who respond do have a very directive attitude, which can be quickly summed up as "my way or the highway," or, "you're not a real model railroader if (or unless)." These people can be safely ignored.

MOST of the advice you get, however, is good, sound advice based on years of experience, and will help you both to "easily master what others have labored hard for" (Socrates), and to avoid making the same mistakes we did.

You will quickly learn to recognize the blowhards in the first category, but advising beginners not to follow the advice of more experienced hobbyists is some of the worst advice I've seen.


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## WaltP (Jan 21, 2013)

traction fan said:


> 8) When experiencing the "fabulous joy"  of mounting couplers and small screws, work on top of a white terry cloth towel spread over the table top. Use weights or tape to secure the towel so it won't slide off the table and send the *&^%^$ parts into "never never land." Never to be seen again. The white color makes it much easier to see the parts, and the terrycloth texture keeps them from rolling off.


An add-on safety net for those times you drop something and it misses the terry cloth completely and falls to the floor --
get a cook's apron you wear around the neck. Put it on, and attach the broad end under the table as wide as the apron will spread and with a fair amount of slack from you to the table so you can still move around. When you drop something, all you need to do is look down. When finished, pull it over your head and let it dangle -- ready for your next session.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Thanks*



WaltP said:


> An add-on safety net for those times you drop something and it misses the terry cloth completely and falls to the floor --
> get a cook's apron you wear around the neck. Put it on, and attach the broad end under the table as wide as the apron will spread and with a fair amount of slack from you to the table so you can still move around. When you drop something, all you need to do is look down. When finished, pull it over your head and let it dangle -- ready for your next session.


WaltP;

That is a very good idea! Thank you for suggesting it.

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Hunh 2*



SlowRoll said:


> Hey, I joined recently as well and honestly do NOT know what I’m doing. But I quickly discovered that much of the quick advice you get in forums will be from people who live their lives adhering to rules that those starting out in the hobby simply shouldn’t follow.


SlowRoll;

I agree with CTValley about the few "experts" who know THE one "right" way to do something. Ignore them. Fortunately, they are few and far between, at least on this forum. I don't follow any other model railroad forums (this one is all I've ever needed) so I don't know what they are like. I'm sorry to hear that you were given what you feel was bad advice. Can you give an example, and tell us where it came from?
The attached file is one I have sent out to many new modelers. If you read just the first paragraph, you should see references to the whole file being only advice, and suggestions; not a set of "rules" on the "right" way to build a model railroad. It mentions "choosing your own path through the decisions faced by each new modeler."
I have tried to keep all my advice in this same vein. "These are some options, I recommend this one, or that, for these reasons, but in the end, it's your choice." 

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:

View attachment WHERE DO I START 3.pdf


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

SlowRoll said:


> Hey, I joined recently as well and honestly do NOT know what I’m doing. But I quickly discovered that much of the quick advice you get in forums will be from people who live their lives adhering to rules that those starting out in the hobby simply shouldn’t follow.


Since you don't know what you're doing, how would you know that?


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## BigEd (Oct 28, 2014)

WaltP said:


> An add-on safety net for those times you drop something and it misses the terry cloth completely and falls to the floor --
> get a cook's apron you wear around the neck. Put it on, and attach the broad end under the table as wide as the apron will spread and with a fair amount of slack from you to the table so you can still move around. When you drop something, all you need to do is look down. When finished, pull it over your head and let it dangle -- ready for your next session.


I do this too. I use a white apron (for obvious reasons), tacked to my rolling workbench table. On top of my table I have a little "tray" I made with white kitchen cupboard pressed wood material with 4" sides on 3 sides which is useful to clamp lights, etc. onto. When I am done I use the white apron to cover it all up - works to safe guard against all but a butt sitting on it (don't ask).

I have/had layouts using a lot of different track types, but my current layout (which I bought, not built) uses Kato Unitrack. The gentleman who built it, a late friend, was quite a skilled artisan and he made the Kato track blend very well with the scenery, etc. The ease of use of the Kato points and the flawless operation (for the most part) make Kato a serious contender. I must admit, I get ten times more pleasure from running trains (while listening to Pink Floyd in the background) than to build stuff. 

As they say in the classics: YMMV (your mileage might vary).

The most important part is - you are into N scale trains! Great!!

Njoy (you see)


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

That looks very nice Ed. How long is that? About 12'?


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## BigEd (Oct 28, 2014)

MichaelE said:


> That looks very nice Ed. How long is that? About 12'?


4.0m x 0.8m (let me translate that - 13'1.25" by 2'7.5" roughly)

Double track mainline with a little yard and a reverse loop controlled by a Digitrax AR1. Small but adequate.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Welcome aboard!*



BigEd said:


> I do this too. I use a white apron (for obvious reasons), tacked to my rolling workbench table. On top of my table I have a little "tray" I made with white kitchen cupboard pressed wood material with 4" sides on 3 sides which is useful to clamp lights, etc. onto. When I am done I use the white apron to cover it all up - works to safe guard against all but a butt sitting on it (don't ask).
> 
> I have/had layouts using a lot of different track types, but my current layout (which I bought, not built) uses Kato Unitrack. The gentleman who built it, a late friend, was quite a skilled artisan and he made the Kato track blend very well with the scenery, etc. The ease of use of the Kato points and the flawless operation (for the most part) make Kato a serious contender. I must admit, I get ten times more pleasure from running trains (while listening to Pink Floyd in the background) than to build stuff.
> 
> ...




BigEd;

Welcome to the forum! Your layout looks great! It also looks a little like it might fall forward off the narrow shelf that is sitting on> I assume that it is bolted on to avoid such a disaster. Maybe the space between the bottom of the layout, and the top surface of the shelf is some sort of mounting hardware? 
I particularly like the backdrops. Did you paint them?
Using backdrops helps make any layout look bigger & better, but they a especially effective for smaller layouts. 
My own, N-scale, shelf layout has a basic depth of only 16", with wider sections at the ends for return loops and a yard. The section in the trestle photo is actually only 8" deep at the bottom and 16" at the top. I think the backdrop makes the scene look much deeper than it really is. The second photo shows one of the wide sections used to accommodate a return loop of track. I model an American railroad called, "The Milwaukee Road" in the Seattle, Washington area in the Northwestern U.S. The centerpiece of the layout is Seattle Union Station. The last two photos show my kit-bashed & scratch-built N-scale model of the station.

Again Welcome;

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:


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## BigEd (Oct 28, 2014)

Hi Traction fan.

Layout luckily only looks like it is falling over. Purely because of the angle I held my iPhone. See the pics. Well anchored to the wall using custom made angle iron brackets. 

The backdrop is actually photographs but bought from someone. Sorry to say, info lost to me now.

Hope this helps


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