# Slowing Down around corners



## y2kdad (Dec 24, 2012)

Hi All,

My son and I are new to the hobby. We just set up our first 40 x 60 Fastrack layout with a CW-80 transformer. A couple of things are troubling me:

1. The train slows down around corners
2. The chuffing sounds from the tender are sporadic. They seem to work fine and then after a couple of revolutions they stop altogether. If I apply more power, they seem to return to normal (but not always).

I've checked all the joints and the connections and I've also given the track a good cleaning. Do I need to run additional connections to more track sections? If so, is this normal? I was under the impression that a 40 x 60 oval was small enough to NOT require additional track "feeds".

Thanks in advance for your help!


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## ErnestHouse (Sep 6, 2015)

Well, it does work but just not well. Rule of thumb is have a feed every 6 linear feet of track. Make sure you keep the positive and minus right on all of them. Consistent power delivery is the foundation for troubleshooting these things. 

Corners increase drag so no surprise if power is marginal. I can't speak to the chuffing. What engine and track are you using?


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## aparsons (Apr 14, 2015)

I got into the hobby last spring and by no means an expert but I'll throw in my two cents. I got my first steam locomotive for Christmas and it was experiencing the same thing (Slowing down in corners). It turns out for me that the Side rods/Coupling rods (Connects the driving wheels together) were just a wee bit too tight on 2 of the driving wheels. I was able to put a small screw driver between the side rod and the wheel and while holding some pressure on the spot where the side rod and wheel meet, I gently pried on the screwdriver and I could feel the side rod slide out a little bit. I then tried it on the other wheels and found the same issue on another wheel. The remaining wheels had no movement. Once I tried the locomotive after that, it worked great. I have been running it for about an hour a day since then with no issues.


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## y2kdad (Dec 24, 2012)

Thanks for the quick replies! I'm going to get some additional 20 gauge connector wires and feed the corners of the oval. I'll see if that helps. I'm using Lionel Fastrack with a Lionel Berskshire steam loco with railsounds.

I'll check the side rods as well, thank you!


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

There is another factor that may be slowing your trains on curves. Friction.

When the train encounters the curve, the wheel flanges press more firmly
against the inside of the rails (that's what keeps the cars on the track) and
adds to the drawbar load, thus, given the same track voltage, slowing the
train. The more wheels IN THE CURVE the more friction the locomotive
must overcome.

Don


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## y2kdad (Dec 24, 2012)

Interesting.....so, if I'm understanding this correctly, a locomotive with fewer wheels (a smaller one) MIGHT get through the curve with no problem(?) Either that or I widen enlarge the curves on the layout?


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## tkruger (Jan 18, 2009)

y2kdad said:


> Interesting.....so, if I'm understanding this correctly, a locomotive with fewer wheels (a smaller one) MIGHT get through the curve with no problem(?) Either that or I widen enlarge the curves on the layout?


You are correct with that thinking assuming all of the wheels are flanged and the steamer is not articulated. I have some where there are only flanges on the front and rear sets of drivers. This allows the middle drivers to slide left and right over the rails.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

y2kdad said:


> Interesting.....so, if I'm understanding this correctly, a locomotive with fewer wheels (a smaller one) MIGHT get through the curve with no problem(?) Either that or I widen enlarge the curves on the layout?


Yes, the wider the radius, the less pressure on the rails by the
wheel flanges thus less load on the drawbar.
Another reason to try your 'darndest' to stay away
from 18" radius curves.

Don


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## mikek (Dec 29, 2013)

Does anyone raise the outer rail on a curve, like banked highways? I would think on a long curve it would make a difference, less derails if the train enters the curve at speed.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Yes, that's done at times. We have a few superelevated curves on the club layout. I don't know that they are as effective as when used with 1:1 scale trains, but they look cool. FWIW, you don't elevate the outside much, for O-gauge, 1/8" is about right.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Super elevation*



mikek said:


> Does anyone raise the outer rail on a curve, like banked highways? I would think on a long curve it would make a difference, less derails if the train enters the curve at speed.


 This was done on the prototype to allow higher speeds in curves. The Milwaukee did it on the route of their famous Hiawatha passenger trains, which regularly ran close to(or above) 100mph!(on straight track, they slowed down on curves.) Elevating the outside rail helped counter centrifical force. Auto race tracks are steeply banked in the curves for the same reason. However model curves are much tighter than those used by the 12" to the foot crowd. On a tight model curve there is some tendency to draw the cars inward. This can be exacerbated by tilting the cars inward with a raised outer rail. Weather this is a problem,or not, depends on tightness of the curve, speed of the train, and the amount the outer rail is raised. 
But, It certainly looks cool; and if you keep the superelvation mild, go ahead and try it.

Traction Fan


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