# How to avoid kinks in flex track turns



## Ethan1526 (Feb 8, 2016)

I recently started laying turns with atlas code 100 flex track, but the first one had a kink so bad that it popped cars off the tracks I had to put a hidden nail to put it back in place. How can I avoid this next time?


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## J.C. (Dec 24, 2016)

was it where the turn started or in the middle of it ?


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## Ethan1526 (Feb 8, 2016)

J.C. said:


> was it where the turn started or in the middle of it ?


In the middle


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## D&J Railroad (Oct 4, 2013)

Are you glueing the track down or nailing it down?


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## Ethan1526 (Feb 8, 2016)

D&J Railroad said:


> Are you glueing the track down or nailing it down?


Glue but nailing it while it dries


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## J.C. (Dec 24, 2016)

Ethan1526 said:


> In the middle


then solder the two sections to gether before you lay it.


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## Mark VerMurlen (Aug 15, 2015)

J.C. said:


> then solder the two sections to gether before you lay it.


This worked well for me, so I also recommend doing it this way too.

Mark


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

Are you trying to curve the track too much? You should limit the minimum curve to 18" radius. If you have some sectional track with 18" radii curves, use it as a guide.


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## santafealltheway (Nov 27, 2012)

J.C. said:


> then solder the two sections to gether before you lay it.


yup, remove some ties, solder, then bend.


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## Ethan1526 (Feb 8, 2016)

MtRR75 said:


> Are you trying to curve the track too much? You should limit the minimum curve to 18" radius. If you have some sectional track with 18" radii curves, use it as a guide.


It's 31 in radius


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Several companies make metal, plastic or wood track laying tools, which are basically guides in various radii to help you keep your curves smooth.

Another option is to use MicroEngineering flex track. Unlike other brands, this track holds its shape when curved, so instead of dealing with a big springy piece of track, you generally coax it around to the desired radius and it stays that way. Some people hate this, but I prefer it.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

One way to avoid kinking in curved flex track joints 
is to offset the rail cuts by an inch or two. One
rail longer than the other on the two pieces of flex.

Carefully slide the ties from the rails, save them
to be reinstalled. They preserve gauge. Do this
before laying the track also.

Don


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

DonR said:


> One way to avoid kinking in curved flex track joints
> is to offset the rail cuts by an inch or two. One
> rail longer than the other on the two pieces of flex.
> 
> ...


I agree with retaining the unmangled ties because of those all-important spike head details that keep the rails in gauge. When you remove the ties completely, you allow the two joined rails, soldered or not, to spread a bit as you bend them. I mean to move away from the other rail which is held in place along the same curve by its own spike heads.

For best results, what you should do is to slide one of the two rails you're intending to join back about six ties deep without cutting anything. Then, slide the mating rail on the other section of track into those now empty spike heads and snug it up, but use a joiner there. I cut my joiners in half so that I don't have to do much mangling where they join, but it would be safe and easier to remove one tie there. You can sand off the spike heads and slide it into place under the joiner later when you have that soldered joint.

The reason to do it this way should be obvious; you maintain the gauge, but you also make the spike heads hold a nice curve with no possibility of kinks. You still have that nice soldered joint for electrical continuity and strength, but the non-mangled spike heads, or the problems coming from removing ties entirely, are never an issue.


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## MikeB (Feb 11, 2016)

I don't know if it really matters, but I've read to keep the rail that slides on the outside of the curve.


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## Mister Bill (Jan 30, 2014)

May I join in?

I have had the same problems to begin with on my code 100 flex track and have re-laid my track with the staggerred joints. I use 4 to 6 inches and unsoldered joiners.

I don't know what difference soldering would make.

I am doing 24" radius. Even with my best work, my diesels and simple steam engines run great but my Broadway Limited 2-10-2 is just a bear and will not take the 24" curve. The lead driver jumps the rail. I have double track, and the outer 27" curves is do-able for the 2-10-2, but that is about as good as it gets for me.

Is that just the nature of the beast on 2-10-2's?

If you cut joiners in half, aren't they a bear to re-open and mount on the rail?

Bill


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

Yes, its the nature of the beast. But the derailment doesn't happen unless the rails also play a role. In this case, my bet is that the problem lies in uneven track...uneven heights across from each other. The frame is being lifted and/or rolled enough that the first axle is lifted so much that the outer wheel flange lifts clear of the rail head.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Might be worth it to try the method of
getting down close with a good light and
running the loco as slow as it will go to
the point where you see the wheel start
to lift. There is a problem there. As suggested
the usual culprit is one rail higher than the
other, but the could be a gauge issue also.

Don


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

When I had the lead truck or driver problems I also seem to not have the track level from rail to rail. Didn't take much of a height problem on one side to to cause problems. I used a map pin to refine where the problem was occurring and DonR's method.


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