# SNKs Shelf Layout



## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

Hello everyone - my long talked about shelf layout is finally coming to fruition. 

I will be constructing and mounting the shelf today in my living room. Pictures to follow in a second post and I will be linking to my topic the the Layout Design Forum once I get back on a computer. 

Really excited and looking forward to getting this up. My buddy is over helping out and we are going for broke to get it done today! 

Have a good one y'all
~ SNK


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

Anxious to see it.

I had mine running last night. It was the perfect way to run a train out of the reach of an 18 month old.

He loved it.


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

First piece prepped and ready to go up. 
Buddy just finished marking the studs. 

Well on the way!


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EDIT:


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

The shelf is up - not yet painted but it's up! 

Here are a few pictures of it! 
Not to worry - the vast unsupported section will be held up with chain every 4 feet and one side does not have its under supports (the hardware store only had 4 brackets) - but it is up!!!

Final assembly will be done next "weekend" 

Let me know what you think. 
























(Ignore "New Girl" on Netflix)












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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Looks fine, but you need to support that track on the corners.


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

Oh yeah - I know.
Like I said, its not finished yet - we just ran out of daylight and I didnt want to be cutting wood up in my apartment late at night - neighbors would have pitched a fit - lol

The track will be supported in the corners and the "bridge" will be supported as well - believe me -LAST thing I want is stuff crashing down!


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

Looking good so far.

Since you live in apartment, what are you going to do about the noise?

My track is screwed to floor joists and plaster in my basement. You can hear the train throught the entire house.

The train running across the suspended section will look good with low lights.

(If you put any more sections up, paint them first, it will be a whole lot easier.)


Keep up the good work.


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

Dave Sams said:


> Looking good so far.
> 
> Since you live in apartment, what are you going to do about the noise?
> 
> ...


As far as the noise goes I am not too worried. The foam mountains will help dampen the sound some, the walls are not connecting walls to any other apartment, and we live on the top floor. Hopefully it doesn't end up being too loud - but I hear you - these are loud - especially on wood. 

The suspended part is going to be held up like so with chain - trying to make it look like a bridge the best I can. 









One of those two ideas will end up winning out. 
I also need to get a few more brackets for the shelves to help hold them up and take some of the pressure off the back plates. 

As far as painting - I was only planning on painting the bottom of the shelf white to match the walls. The bridge bottom and sides will be gray. The foam scenery I'm planning will hide the rest if the shelf so no painting necessary. I plan to use that adhesive industrial Velcro to hold the foam on. 

Look for more updates soon! My electronics are on their way and this should be up and running next weekend. 


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## 05Slowbalt (Dec 19, 2011)

Looking forward to see this shelf layout finished.


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

Me too - lol

This is actually the quickest project that I have ever done - I am a bit frightened that I am going to discover some flaw at the last minute :-/ 

Though I did spend a good deal of time planning - so I guess it evens out. Once everything is up and running I will measure for the scenery and start on the foam carving. I hope to have the foam done and up for Halloween so I can run my Hallows Eve Express on it. 

Side note - I will be attempting to convert that engine to TMCC but I have ordered the Powermaster as a stopgap measure in the meantime. I also scored a new 180w powerhouse from eBay - not a bad deal either seeing as EVERYWHERE else I looked was either OOS or back ordered. 

My long awaited layout (wanted SOME SORT of layout since I was a kid) is finally almost done. 

It's one if those weepy nostalgia moments - lol - jk



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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

Ok - I have a question for the electrically inclined people here. 

I need to wire this layout with more than 1 lockon. I am using tubular track - no fancy track here - and will be using a 180w powerhouse, new powermaster from the Lionel store and the TMCC command base. I also have a signal bridge that needs to be wired in as well. 

How do I do this - any help is welcome - my electrical expertise in this area consists of a single lockon and go to town - I've never had a layout large enough to warrant anything more until now. 

The shelf is approximately 12'X12' 

Thank you in advance. Please respond here and not in PM so others may learn if interested. 
I am also going to see if there are already topics on this - but I am a very visual learner and work better if things are laid out for me - especially this. 


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'd run some 14ga wire under the track, or alongside the wall and just drop power to the track at about eight points, two on each wall, spaced evenly. That'll give you a power drop about every six feet, should be plenty. Make sure the track pins are clean and fit tight. If you have any suspect track, you can also solder small jumpers across the joints to insure good conductivity.

This will insure you have even voltage around the whole loop. Up on the shelf, you should be able to hide the wire pretty easily.


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

Sounds good! Thanks john - I also ended up calling Lionel tech support and they suggested 18g stranded connected to 16g bus wire with a lockon every 10ft or so - effectively giving me 3 feeders over the course of the layout. 

My second question is this - what is the best way to clean the Lionel o27 track. It's not rusty or anything - but it has been with me for a while and has oxidized some (turned that midrange gray color) 

I don't have a track cleaning car - so what would be a home remedy that works or has worked for others. 


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I use some Scotchbrite for cleaning of oxidation, and then just 91% Isopropyl Alcohol for cleaning off contamination like oils and dirt. I do have the Trackman 2000 track cleaning car that I have a ScotchBrite pad on and I run that around occasionally.

The more you run, sometimes the less you have to clean it seems.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

I bought some O-31 track earlier this year that was somewhat corroded and even rusty in a few places. First, I bent the rails where the pins are installed so the pins would make a good connection in the mating section. With the pins facing away from you, bend the left pins to the left and the center pin to the right. When the sections are connected, there will be contact pressure on the pins which will reduce the resistance of the connections. I have done this with some large carpet layouts and used a minimum of lockons. Lionel's recommended method of pinching the open ends of the rails together doesn't work very well. 

When I made the layout earlier this year, I didn't clean the track using ScotchBrite or a wire wheel. I ran the train over it and the train cleaned the rails. I started with the E units set to forward only so the dirty track wouldn't trip the E unit. I had a few rusty places that I cleaned with a spare track section using the end of a tie as a scraper. This method is a lot more fun than manually cleaning the track.  After a couple of hours, I turned the E unit back on and it worked fine. The track ended up with a very narrow shiny line on the top of the rails. I only used one lockon on this layout which was convenient because I didn't have to run wires all over the floor. 

If the track has oil or grease on it, I use alcohol on a pad of paper towels that I attach to a heavy car with rubber bands and then tow it around the layout with a loco. Periodically, I refold the paper towels to expose some clean area and add some more alcohol. You shouldn't get much or any oil on the track unless you are putting too much oil on the rolling stock.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I'd still clean with the Scotchbrite, for this loop it'll be easy and you don't have to screw around with anything else.


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

FWIW my ceiling track is about the same length as yours.

I used 16g wire and only have one connection. The wire is soldered to the track.

All of my track sections are soldered together. I suspect someone will curse me years from now when the thing is taken down

The only place the trains slow down are about a foot from where the power wire is soldered to the track. It is on a curve at the end of a long straight section.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You need less drops if you solder all the rail joints, but it's usually easier to run a bus and just add a few drops. 

FWIW, my old O27 layout had most of the track joints soldered, it did work well.


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

Yeah - that is a no go here. I am in the military and this an apartment. I cannot go permanent with this layout. It has to be the bus wire. 


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

The bridge is complete 

With one of my Pullman coaches for size comparison 




























It's very sturdy - especially for the ceiling supports not being in the struts - but the drywall is thick in these old apartments and it should be fine - especially since the chain is not exactly supporting any real weight and the pressure is outwards instead of straight down. 

Final corner assembly will be completed on Sunday or Monday and I can start laying track and wiring. 




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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

That's looking really neat, can't wait to see trains running around on this!


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> That's looking really neat, can't wait to see trains running around on this!


I am looking forward to it as well - lol - now that it is closer to completion. My Hallows Eve Express is just itching to get up there!

Going to add a few more shelf supports as well - making a total of 4 on each side and renforce the bridge connection with another fishplate on each end. (The 4-6-0 is HEAVY)

I plan to paint this weekend, either on Saunday or Monday - finishing the bed project (see my other thread) and painting the bottom of the shelf white and the bottom and sides of the bridge a gray color. Its called "coal dust" which seemed appropriate. Going to get a few of the little 2oz sample cans from Home Depot because the bottom and sides are NOT going to take a quart - especially since I use a roller. I will also be starting on the foam mountains using my test piece - this is my first real layout and this has been a HUGE (contrary to what it may seem) learning curve for me. I have a video series that I have been studying on the foam mountain carving -so hopefully it works out and doesnt look too dumb. lol

The 180w powermaster should be here today or tomorrow and my Conventional/TMCC control setup will be complete.

Probably going to set up a simple loop on the floor to test the electronics before installing everything on the shelf - last thing I need is untested tech installed in hard to reach places. 

This WILL be completed for Halloween - and I will honestly probably leave the 4-6-0 up there until after Thanksgiving when it will be replaced with my 4-4-2 and the Pullman coaches for the Christmas season. 

Only a few more progress shots to go until I post "finished" shots and a vid of the Hallows Eve Express making her maiden run on the new line. :smilie_daumenpos:


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Sounds great we wait with great anticipation.


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## icolectto (Nov 28, 2012)

I have enjoyed following your progress. I can hardly wait to see the project completed.


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## deviltrigger529 (Jul 9, 2013)

I saw this thread and thought your name looked familiar and when I saw the pics I was like wow that looks really familiar lol. I thought you lost interest since you never PMed me back, glad to see you making some awesome progress on it and its looking great!


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

deviltrigger529 said:


> I saw this thread and thought your name looked familiar and when I saw the pics I was like wow that looks really familiar lol. I thought you lost interest since you never PMed me back, glad to see you making some awesome progress on it and its looking great!


Yup! lol

Sorry about never getting back to you - I meant too and then I just figured it out on my own. Check out the other thread that I have though, you get full credit for the design and there is a link to your YouTube video - hope you don't mind. 

Its almost finished - the final corner pieces will be cut tomorrow.


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## deviltrigger529 (Jul 9, 2013)

Very cool. I missed the other thread, thanks for the credit and the link although I wouldn't trash you for not doing it lol. I finally have my corner pieces installed as well and am waiting on it to get cooler to finally stain it. I also added more "detail" chains to my bridge. Haven't used it in a little while though, waiting to get a dual motor diesel because the single motor Berkshire steam loco doesn't really cut it at slower speeds with all those passenger cars. I've had it get stuck in a couple places and just spin wheels lol. 

I think I noticed a bracket in one of your pics and was wondering what that was for? It shouldn't really be necessary for support unless you were kinda scarce on the supports to the wall. I don't have a single bracket support on mine and I put alot of downforce by almost hanging and it barely moved. Unless you just used to them help place it then removed them, not sure.

You're actually not even the first person to like my design. A buddy of mine that got me into trains in the first place saw my layout and now he wants me to do the same in his house. His room is 28' x18' so its gonna be big!


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

I don't really trust my walls - that is pretty much the short version - lol. 

I don't know if you can tell from some of the pictures, but I am not sure all of the walls are exactly flat - that and coupled with the fact that these were made in the 70s - I figure better safe then sorry. It's not for a lack of studs, I have enough, it's just that it LOOKS like it's going to come crashing down even though I know that it will not - but the mental image if several thousand dollars worth of train set making a 6+ foot swan dive prompted the use if the supports 

There will be a total of 12 brackets - 4 on each side and 2 larger ones in each of the corners. It's an extra safety precaution that makes me feel better about things. You don't know me from Adam so there is no way you could, but those that know me know that I tend to overbuild things. lol - like Detroit before it became a 3rd world country. 




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## deviltrigger529 (Jul 9, 2013)

Lol ok fair enough. I technically overbuilt mine was well since I put 2 screws into the wall about every foot instead of every stud. So its either into a stud with 2 screws or into drywall mounts with 2 screws every foot. I knew it was more than enough but wanted to be safe instead of sorry. I was afraid with my first test run about it crashing down lol.

Can't wait to see the final product and a running vid! I actually like the idea of using the foam for a cliff as a background. I didn't even think of it for that. I just started getting into the foam for my basement layout and found it to be very easy to work with.


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

I just have one screw into each stud - but I think tomorrow I will be adding another - so there are 2. I also like the every foot idea - but with the supports I shouldn't need that many lol. 

This has been quite the project for me - the wiring is next and we will see how that goes, I still want to get this done for Halloween, but I have a class that starts tomo....today actually, and my "play time" will be cut drastically short until the beginning of December :-/




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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

Just painted the entire shelf gray. Turns out it looks pretty good that way and will blend nicely with the rock scenery. 

The rest of my shelf brackets will be here tomorrow or Wednesday hopefully and I will post pics. 

All that is left now is wiring. 
Very pleased with how it turned out. 


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## Handyandy (Feb 14, 2012)

deviltrigger529 said:


> Lol ok fair enough. I technically overbuilt mine was well since I put 2 screws into the wall about every foot instead of every stud. So its either into a stud with 2 screws or into drywall mounts with 2 screws every foot. I knew it was more than enough but wanted to be safe instead of sorry. I was afraid with my first test run about it crashing down lol.



Hopefully the studs are on 24" centers and not on the very common 16" centers or you may not have hit any of them. LOL


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## Handyandy (Feb 14, 2012)

SNK said:


> Just painted the entire shelf gray. Turns out it looks pretty good that way and will blend nicely with the rock scenery.
> 
> The rest of my shelf brackets will be here tomorrow or Wednesday hopefully and I will post pics.
> 
> ...



Looks like it will be a great layout when done. The suspension bridge effect with the support chains is cool. Looking forward to more pictures.
The local hardware store (unfortunately it closed last year) had G scale trains running on tracks hung from the ceiling all around the store. Pretty cool setup.


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

It's DONE!!!!!!!!

The shelf has gotten its 2 coats of gray paint. We are waiting on the rest of my shelf brackets and it will be all she wrote.

We are currently building a box to hold my powermaster and the command base. 




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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Looking Good!!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Let's get some track up there and see the train running!


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

Just imagine that painted white to match the wall. 

THIS is the quickest project we've ever done - lol


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

I got the rest of my shelf supports in today - so whenever it stops raining I'm going to paint them (I decided that the white brackets look silly and went with black) and get them put up. The black looks much nicer - trust me. 

I am going to wire this weekend and *hopefully* Ill have a train running before the end of the weekend. 

My classes got cancelled due to the gov'ment shutdown (TA was suspended temporarily pending a FY14 budget) so my project time is back to 100%...... Minus the "Hunny Do List." LoL

I am deliberately holding off on pictures at the moment until the shelf supports are installed and everything is finished. Y'all have seen the major stuff anyways - just have to power through and finish. 

List of improvements since last update:

1. The box for the Control Base and Powermaster was finished and installed. BTW - if anyone has a Lionel "L" sticker in the orange and blue they wouldn't mind donating Ill pay shipping 

2. The cable run was installed on the wall and the Transformer and Command Base wires were installed. A test shows everything powers on as expected. 

3. Track preliminarily laid - I have enough clearance that I may do a flexible foam roadbed - running the train is going to be VERY loud otherwise. 


Like I said - pictures will be forthcoming and I hope you all like it when you see it finished. 

Still haven't started on the scenery - that will be next. 



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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

Here is my proposed wiring plan - let me know if this will work. 

I'm using 16g bus wire and 4 position terminals. 

Thoughts. 












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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I advise separate power for any uncoupling tracks. When I ran them off track power with Legacy, they tended to screw up the operation of the locomotive. Separate power and all is well.


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

That is the idea - the 1.8 accessory transformer will be controlling my signal bridge. 

There isn't any need for uncoupling track - no switches - just a simple loop 


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Sorry, I thought "terminal section" was a coupling track, you're talking a plain power connection I suspect. I'd have at least a couple more power drops to the track.


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

I was thinking about getting another terminal section but I will see how this operates given the better fitting properties of Fastrack. If it's not working out I will just wire in another terminal. 

The accessory is going to run off its own power supply since it's not true TMCC and the voltage isn't static. 



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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You don't need a terminal track, every full size piece of Fastrack has the same connectors. The only thing a terminal track does is have a little notch filed into it for the wire to come out. Big deal!


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

True


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

Anyone have a CW-80 from a Ready to Run set that is taking up space and no longer needed. 

I'm looking to not spend a bundle on a nice accessory controller. 


Don't know if you don't ask - lol
Otherwise Ill be looking to get the 1.8 amp accessory transformer. 


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

If you look around on eBay, you can frequently find one of the many older set transformers for peanuts, probably a better value than the CW-80. Also, the CW-80 has a fan that sometimes bothers people.


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

Any suggestions - I only was inquiring about the CW-80 because I know it's generally the first to go/pull accessory duty when folks start expanding. 

I don't know much about the older transformers. 


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

Just thought you would like to see my progress from yesterday 



















The thing hanging down is the remote for my power supplies. Works out very nicely. 









Which is connected to this 









The brackets are up and 2 legs of the track are laid. 
Going to be working on wiring today and when the rest of my track arrives I will have the train ready to go! 




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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Looking great, can't wait to see activity up there!


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## Model Train Structures (Oct 10, 2013)

That's most interesting; I look forward to seeing it progress.

D.A.


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

Just thought y'all would like to see this. Wiring mockup is complete as well - just waiting for the final track pieces to arrive. 

That is acrylic plexiglass - 5" tall - that particular piece is destined for the corner - but you can just get the idea. 

I'm going to drill some pilot holes and secure it with flush mounted small machine screws. 

Should save the train from taking a 7foot nose dive in the event of a derailment. 

I am most pleased with the result  lol



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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

You don't really need the Plexiglas that high.
A couple of inches above the top of the rail would be all that you need. :smokin:


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## Model Train Structures (Oct 10, 2013)

Good idea; I was wondering what you were going to use in case the train derailed. Will that be around the whole track?

D.A.


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

Yeah more or less around the whole track. 

And I know Ed - but it's already cut and I'm not going to cut it again 

So it's what we're going with - lol


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

SNK said:


> Yeah more or less around the whole track.
> 
> And I know Ed - but it's already cut and I'm not going to cut it again
> 
> ...



OK. It is still a good Ideal "you" have.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Looks good, your track is in the mail, got picked up yesterday.


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## Don Trinko (Oct 23, 2012)

Not sure if you need the plexiglass on the straights. Most of my derailments are on turns or switches but if you have a long train a derailment on a turn may cause others further back to derail. Don


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

I got the track the other day John - thank you - as well as some track I had ordered from Lionel. 

Both arrived at the same time - mailman was not too happy about carrying both those boxes up to my apartment - lol. 

Anyways - I have most of the wiring done and will be laying track Sunday night or Monday morning. I would be doing it this weekend but the wife and I are out in Gloucester VA at a reenactment event. We portray British army during the Revolutionary War and this weekend is the Battle of the Hook, a prelude to the Battle at Yorktown and the British surrender in the colonies. 

My hobbies are many and varied - cosplay, RevWar reenacting, and trains - all are expensive :-/

Lol
I love it though - keeps life fun and interesting and that is the main thing. 


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Boy, you picked badly, it's no fun to play the losing side!


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## dlbraly (Oct 13, 2013)

Im looking forward to seeing the train run.
Looks good.


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Boy, you picked badly, it's no fun to play the losing side!


Heck no! The Colonials are so uptight - lol - I have a ton of fun in this unit. Besides - when we lose we make it look good 


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

Alright - the videography isn't the best because I'm juggling the iPhone and the Cab1 (and I'm sure you can see where I slowed the train down too much by accident) but it is working!!!! Also the YouTube app that I need to use to upload videos doesn't like to keep the damn camera focused - so sorry about that in advance. 

Everything is wired up and I have 2 supports down in the car that need to go up some other night (the Halloween train is much heavier then the 4-4-2) to reinforce the bridge - but I couldn't resist! 

In case anyone is wondering why the bridge seems smoother or quieter - I am using traditional O rails there - coupled to the Fastrack with adapters at either end. 

Now that I know everything works I will be installing the plexiglass this weekend and the additional supports that I mentioned. 

Anyways - enjoy the video. Sorry it is so dark, but I don't have a lot of lamps and y'all can see the train fine I hope 










http://youtu.be/OCk5YWc0zZg




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## Model Train Structures (Oct 10, 2013)

Looking good! You've done a great job. 

D.A.


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## icolectto (Nov 28, 2012)

Excellent ! ! Well thought out and completed. Enjoy:thumbsup:


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

Looking good! Thanks for sharing your train experience.:appl:


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## dlbraly (Oct 13, 2013)

Sharp


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## Model Train Structures (Oct 10, 2013)

I forgot to ask, are you going to paint the 2x4 like the wall or put some type of mini-background on it or leave as is?

D.A.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Great job, I am impressed with how much quieter the bridge is than the rest of the RR, the tubular track really does make a big difference!


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

I am going to try and install a foam mountain background. The clearances are somewhat tight though - so it will probably end up being painted gray like the rest of the shelf.

The bridge IS much quieter - I was not expecting that, but it is a welcome happanstance.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You could do a very skinny foam mountain to give it some 3D relief, that would probably fit.


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

So I have run into a slight hitch that frankly I had not anticipated. 

Namely that the 4-6-0 Hall Class has a fat front end. The coaches on my Hallows Eve Express will negotiate the curves just fine - but the locomotive will not. Her buffer gets hung up on my support beam. So I can either take the whole thing down and cut out the back support in the area around the corners - or just not use the locomotive. 

While it pains me to do so - since I REALLY wanted to use it - I have resigned the 4-6-0 back to her box and my trusty little 4-4-2 Atlantic will pull the train. There is a little strain, but if I pick the coaches up slowly, she runs like a champ. 

I have attached the "Spooky sounds" tender off the Hall at the end of the train so I don't lose that feature. All in all it looks great. 

I've also attached the plexiglass protectors on the shelf. I decided to take the advice of the forum and attach them on the corners only - a derailment is not likely on a straightaway anyways. 

Let me know what you think and if there are any other ideas for allowing the 4-6-0 to run. 



































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## Model Train Structures (Oct 10, 2013)

I'm sorry you can't use the locomotive that you want to use. As much work as you've put into the layout, if it were me, I'd would not take the track down.

As far as the plexiglass is concerned, I'd put it around the entire track for safety reasons, especially if there are going to be any young children in the room. Personally, I wouldn't want it on my head, nor would I want a law suit if it hit a guest/company. I'm not saying someone would sue you, but it might be better to to put up the plexiglass than have to pay someone's doctor bill. You're right as far as it probably not derailing except for the curves, but I'd err on the side of caution. Just saying, D.A.


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

Model Train Structures said:


> I'm sorry you can't use the locomotive that you want to use. As much work as you've put into the layout, if it were me, I'd would not take the track down.
> 
> As far as the plexiglass is concerned, I'd put it around the entire track for safety reasons, especially if there are going to be any young children in the room. Personally, I wouldn't want it on my head, nor would I want a law suit if it hit a guest/company. I'm not saying someone would sue you, but it might be better to to put up the plexiglass than have to pay someone's doctor bill. You're right as far as it probably not derailing except for the curves, but I'd err on the side of caution. Just saying, D.A.


Eh - it will be fine. 

I don't have kids and the only people that visit are adults that know not to touch things that don't belong to them - lol

I wasn't done putting up the plexiglass when I took those pictures. The corners are extended on all sides so there is only a 3 foot gap or so between the panels in the middle of the straightaways - she's not coming down. 

Enjoy! 

















Hopefully y'all can see the glass - it's a pain trying to get it to show up - it's new and very transparent. 



Sent from my iPhone5 using mind control!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Where exactly does the other locomotive hit? I'm not sure what the "support beam" you mention is. Is it hitting on the corners only?


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

She hits on the corners. There isn't enough clearance between the front buffers (to coin a British term) and the wall when it makes the turn.

The guide wheels are further back then on the Atlantic and causes the front end to swing wider then that locomotive.


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## Model Train Structures (Oct 10, 2013)

SKN, as far as the plexiglass is concerned, with no children and behaved adults, I say ALL ABOARD!

D.A.


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## dlbraly (Oct 13, 2013)

MAN, that looks good. A shame the one you want to run rubs.
Guess no way to use a router and hollow out the places it hits. Might even be visible from the floor.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

If you don't need to increase the clearance very much, you could use a sharp chisel and hammer.


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## dlbraly (Oct 13, 2013)

servoguy said:


> If you don't need to increase the clearance very much, you could use a sharp chisel and hammer.


Even better


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I was thinking the same thing, I'd be up there with my wood rasp Dremel bit making clearance for the locomotive.


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

Yeah - I was thinking that. I'm going to see how much clearance I need and git'er done


Sent from my iPhone5 using mind control!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

We have faith!


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

If you want to hurry up the process, take a large wood bit and drill some holes in the area. Then take the Dremel wood rasp and finish the job. If you are careful, you should be able to overlap the holes.


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

Regarding your plexiglass, I suggest you get some ferrules to go under the heads of your dw screws. Not only will it dress it up a bit, it may prevent cracking the plexiglass from over tightening.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

I am going to suggest that we all converge on Dave Sams and paint his plywood green!!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

servoguy said:


> I am going to suggest that we all converge on Dave Sams and paint his plywood green!!


I don't think he wants it green anymore.:laugh:

SNK take the plexiglass off and just give visitors a hart hat.
And make them sign a waiver. 

Looking good. :thumbsup:


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## Dave Sams (Nov 24, 2010)

Pictures of ferrules for the hardware challenged.





They add a finished look in my opinion.

FWIW, I prefer an oval head screw with a ferrule.


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## SNK (Sep 16, 2013)

I think Ill pass on that. Im not too worried about the plexiglass cracking unless the trains slam into it - and then I will have other problems. 

As it is you can hardly see the screws, and they are already up - so I don't really fancy taking the whole affair down again for an aesthetic adjustment. 

Good idea though - if this ever gets done again - I will def think of that.


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