# 1689e on the work bench!



## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

Its time to start working on the 1689e and passenger cars that I picked up on e-bay. Here is the set as I received it.


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## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

I have started tear down and cleaning and I have some parts on order, it was missing a drive wheel and lanterns and a few other things. The "L" emblem on the front of the loco is shot and my parts guy doesn't have them. Anyone know where I can find one? And also metal "Lionel Lines" strips for the 1689 tenders? I will post some progress pics tomorrow.
Randy


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Ping Jeff Kane at the Train Tender ... www.ttender.com ... I'm pretty sure he will have those emblems (stick-on, though ... perhaps not tabbed.)

Keep us posted. A 1689 is on my "hopeful list", someday.

TJ


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Cant wait to see what you do with them. It looks like you have some solid trains to work with. Jeff at the tt is great and should have what you need. I placed my first order there last week ; I couldn't be happier.


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## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

Well, its time for a progress report. I'm sorry I'm not to good at the step by step, get kind of one tracked while working on stuff. So far I have stripped, primed, and painted the engine shell and tender. I spent a lot of time looking through the paint at the auto stores trying to find the perfect gunmetal grey. The first can I bought I thought was way to dark so I tried again. The cap looked good so I gave it a try. I guess you cant go by the cap because it is much lighter than what I was looking for. I like it though so its going to stay. I polished all the small bits to a brass finish, and covered all with airplane dope per suggestions from you guys. Also, I fixed the whistle by following the steps from a previous post. They were a huge help. Removing the spiders nest and lubing the ball on the back make it sound real good. Got my engine parts in and everything is good except the rear wheel I was missing. It was the wrong wheel I am trying to find the proper 8 spoke wheel but not having much luck. Jeff at ttender can't get them any more. He did have the emblem for the front that I need so I am happy about that. Here is a pic of what is going on. My table is no where near as neat as some of the other guys on here. Guess I'm going for the mad scientist look.:laugh:
Randy


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

The paint job looks great ( I'm a little jealous! ). If you think your tables messy I hate to see what you would call mine. It will look even better running on the track!


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## ColtsKurt (Jan 28, 2012)

So, just what is this _airplane dope_ you speak of?


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## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

The airplane dope is a hard clear covering to keep the brass shiny. It was recommended on this forum by several of the guys, TJ, GRJ. And seems to work real well. Looks good. Available at the local hobby shop.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

The color looks nice. :thumbsup:

What is wrong with the wheel you have? When you say the rear wheel are you talking the drive wheels? They don't look bad in your picture.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Randy,

The work in progress looks PRISTINE! The loco shell (with shiny bits) is glistening. Nice work. Shiny drive wheels, too. Black paint on the spokes? Looks good. Do consider using "gun blue" on future projects, though ... works nicely on wheels and such. (It's more of a metal dye than a paint.)

I've bought those 8-spoke wheel sets from Jeff in the past, but I know his inventory was getting low. I'm pretty sure you can still buy them (as a set) from other supppiers. Check with Olsens.

That said, I have several of these "Lionel Jr" motors on my workbench ... all in a state of wait ... for more 8-spoke wheels. I do have some extras, but not a fully matched set (w w/o gears, w w/o studs). Is the one you need with or without the gear? If your in a bind, you can take one without the crank stud, and drill and tap to add a stud made out of a dowel tube.

I'm not sure what wheels i have in the parts bin, but let me know which one you need. (gear or no gear).

Cheers,

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Looking great, can't wait to see the finished product.


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## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

thanks everyone for the nice comments. The help I have received from this forum is invaluable. Jeff at the train tender will be sending the emblems I need so Its just the wheel problem to work out. The wheel I need is the non-geared rear wheel. The one I received was the right position but it was a twelve spoke wheel and the center hole is to small for the axle. The local train show is coming up in two weeks so I think I will look there and hope to get lucky. Got more work to do yet and then some reassembly. All the replacement emblems are stick on so I can put the tender back together anyhow. And then time to start on the cars!
Randy


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Randy,

See how you make out at the train show. If you turn up empty, I have a non-gear, non-stud wheel that could be modified to add a crank stud, if need be.

Keep me posted,

TJ


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## Southern Tier (Feb 8, 2013)

*wheels*

I am also in the process of restoring a 1689E. I too needed a drive wheel, Jeff didn't have it so I kept searching. Found a set at traindoctor.com. They also list individual used wheels. Jeff has the stick on side plates, loco & tender.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

With some extra effort, I had to track down a prewar wheel axle bearing that Jeff Kane didn't stock. Dean Brasseur at the Train Doctor was wonderful in helping me identify the proper part, which he had in stock. Great communication. I would certainly do business with him again, were in not for Jeff filling most all of my needs.

How much was the full wheel set? Somewhere around $40 or $45 ? That's good to know that he has individual (used) 8-spoked wheels.

Thanks!

TJ


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## Southern Tier (Feb 8, 2013)

Wheel set was $37.50. Funny part is I had bought a 1688E off of ebay described as a parter; so I was going to rob a wheel. Turned out that after I rewired and cleaned up the E-drive it runs pretty well so it got saved and I found the set of wheels at Brasseur(traindoctor.com)


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Tier,

That's a good price for a full set.

I have LOTS of 1681 locos (my addiction, really) ... several restored, but several "in the queue". The "missing link" on a few are the wheelsets. I could spring the $40 or so for repros, but I often do what you do ... scout ebay for low-price junkers that will buy me (on the cheap) wheels for a redo.

But then, I get "suckered" into you fate ... wanting to redo the junker, rather than stripping it for parts. Dohh!

Hey ... PLEASE create a thread on your 1681 ... I'd love to see it / swap stories.

It's nice to have another prewar / tinplate guy on our crew here!

TJ


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## Southern Tier (Feb 8, 2013)

I've really enjoyed the work on both the 1689E and the 1688E; but in reality I'm a Flyer guy. The 1689E was my Dad's and I want to pass it on to my great nephew. I gotta tell ya though I've gotten so much from your's and others post on this forum. I'm amazed at the step by step descriptions and pictures you all post. Its really been a pleasure; but my next projects will be on new stuff, my 50's AF stuff.


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## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

Thanks ST, fired off an e-mail to the train doctor just now, hope they have what I need. I got a quote for a set of wheels at 47.50 plus shipping, to rich for me,especially when I just need one. Still have the train show in a week to try also. Got in the repro emblems from Jeff at TT today, they look great. everything is done waiting on the wheel. Hope to post pics as soon as I have success.


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## Southern Tier (Feb 8, 2013)

Just reread your post about the wheel you need. I have an eight spoke non-geared wheel, I would be happy to, as we say on my Harley forum "pay it forward'. PM me your address.


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## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

Here is where i am at right now, mostly finished, sitting on the work bench waiting for a wheel. Thanks to Southern, I think my wait will be short!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, that looks great! Nice job bringing that one back!


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## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

Thanks GRJ. Now I have to get to work on the cars. I am a little nervous about the 2 tone paint but I will give it a shot.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Looks like you have the monotone paint down, time to step it up a notch.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Nice! The 1689e is very unique looking. Very cool rehab. Hope it gets a wheel soon!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Your choice of auto gunmetal looks even better than the original. Beautiful job on the rehab!

(You have that rear truck, too, I assume?)

TJ


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## Southern Tier (Feb 8, 2013)

Looks nice rd. My 1689E was orginally black so I l repainted it black. Does anyone know the history of this model and changes from year to year; mine doesn't have the lanterns.


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## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

Yes TJ I have the rear truck, it will go back on when the missing wheel does, Southern would love to see some pics of yours in black!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

What a big difference from the before picture.
Looks great. I like the color. :thumbsup:

What are the numbers on the passenger cars?


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## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

Thanks Big Ed, The passenger cars are 2-1690's and a 1691.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Do the doors come off?
The rear deck of the 1691 comes off right?

Take off what you can to paint separate, then tape off around the windows and paint them, after letting it dry real good tape off the windows and shoot the car red?
A piece of cake. 


Are you going to shoot it the red & cream color?


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## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

The doors are painted on, they are my biggest worry because they are curved at the top and I want to get the curve right, along with the curves at the tops of the windows. I probably am going to start taking them apart this weekend. I will learn a lot then. I am planning on repainting red and cream like the originals.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

rdmtgm said:


> The doors are painted on, they are my biggest worry because they are curved at the top and I want to get the curve right, along with the curves at the tops of the windows. I probably am going to start taking them apart this weekend. I will learn a lot then. I am planning on repainting red and cream like the originals.



Maybe tape them off straight and shoot it, then hand paint the curve in?

Cut a thin piece of cardboard in the shape of the curve first then tape and shoot it?

The roofs don't come off of those right?


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## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

No, the roofs do not come off, The tops look to be on piece of sheet metal with only one connection at the ends, it does look like the brass back off the 1691 will come off. I am going to try and make a template of some sort to to make all the doors the same. I will try to post pictures of them as I go. Will be gone on vacation next week so wont get much done until after. I will get to shop for more trains in a new place though!


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## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

Tore down the pass. cars tonight, threw most of the small bits straight into the Evapo-rust. Picked some up at Harbor Freight last week. That stuff is amazing. Will probably wait till after vacation to strip the car bodies. I will try to post some pics of the progress.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

RDM,

For what it's worth, I did a strip / repaint on a 1682 tender a while back. Perhaps some tip or two in how I redid the windows, doors, etc. that might offer some help to you?

Info starts about here in this thread ...

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?p=36149&postcount=60

Cheers,

TJ


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

That thread you posted could use some bumping.

Maybe now is the time to do the tanker.


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## Southern Tier (Feb 8, 2013)

tjcruiser said:


> RDM,
> 
> For what it's worth, I did a strip / repaint on a 1682 tender a while back. Perhaps some tip or two in how I redid the windows, doors, etc. that might offer some help to you?
> 
> ...


I went through this thread a couple of days ago, great work tj! 
this is where I got the idea for pinstriping with a Sharpie. Hope I can be half as successful.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Thanks, guys. We all trade tips back and forth ... that's what make the forum great!


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## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

OK here is the finished 1689e and tender. It seems to be working pretty well except that I am having some trouble keeping constant contact with the rails. I have replaced both contact slides and they seem to be working properly but I just keep losing contact. Any suggestions?


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## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

Here is where I am at on the passenger cars. By the way, I decided to soak all the cars in evaporust because it also stripped the paint. I found out that was a good way to ruin my evaporust and it did not do as good of a job of stripping as the much cheaper oven cleaner.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Run the loco until the pickup sliders wear a little. It will help to turn off the E relay while you are doing this.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Where did you get the new (presumably repro) pickup shoes? I have seen inferior quality ones that don't fit the spring clip on the inside of the pickup plate all that well. As such, they don't seat 100% properly, and don't spring up and down like they should.

Also, it may be that the copper spring clip (inside the pickup plate) is bent up a bit, and not offering enough down-compression to the shoe. If you remove the shoe, you can push the "L" of a small Allen wrench back underneath the spring clip, and then, using this as a fulcrum, bend the outer end of the clip down a bit with a flathead screwdriver.

Not sure if either of these are your problems, but worth a check.

TJ


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

TJ, I have used a large paper clip with an L bend on one end. I prefer it because it is much longer than an allen wrench.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

I recently acquired a 1666 which has sliding shoe pickups. The loco had been wet, and the board that holds the pickups was warped. I unwarped the board by putting a small clamp on it and then using my hair dryer. It got flat enough that it is working. I have a new board, but will probably see what I can do with the warped one to straighten it out a little more.


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## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

TJ, I understand what your saying about the shoes, I bought a pack of 4 on e-bay, and they are not all the same exact size. The first one I put on was too big and didn't move up and down at all. I did manage to get 2 of them that seem to be working fine. I am going to try running it a little, per Servoguy, and see if that helps. If not then I will move on to try and get more tension on the springs. Thanks for the suggestions!
Randy


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I will say that after buying some repro pickup shoes at a local train show, and not being so happy with their precision, I ended up ordering some from Jeff Kane ... part 1661-33, if I recall. His fit like a glove ... no problems on my end, at all.

Bruce -- bend paper clip is good idea, too ... same concept ... just trying to wedge something far back, to get fulcrum for the down-bend of the outer part of the spring.

TJ


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Agreed, I very gad some bad pick up shoes too. I just thought I ordered the wrong size. Does anyone know if the pick up shoes come in different sizes like the rollers?


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I don't believe so. In theory, they're all one part number, 1661-33. That said, several different mfrs are offering these in reproduction, and the specific dimensions from any mfr could vary.

As noted, those from Jeff Kane fit nicely on my end.

Regards,

TJ


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I will add the bad ones I have did not come from Jeff.


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## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

As Servoguy suggested, I ran it on the test track for ten or so minutes with it locked in forward. It seems to be running much better now, Thanks.
Still working on the passenger car repaints, hope to have some pics soon!


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Good news!


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## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

Here is the first pic of the passenger cars. Still need some lettering and some more little rails for the last car. Not perfect but better than they were, and I learned a bit for the next time.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

They look great. :thumbsup:

I see how you got around the windows, what did you do to paint the doors?

What kind of lettering you going to do?
Dry transfer, wet decals?

We need to see a picture with the whole train showing, with the Locomotive and tender too. 
On a straightaway. :thumbsup:


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## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

Thanks big ed,
I am going to order some dry transfer lettering from woodland scenics and try that .
To do the doors and single windows this is what I did: First I made a template in the shape of the door from an old credit card. Then I traced the template on to a piece of masking tape. I picked the center out of the masking tape and used the outline to mask off the doors. I just used the top half of the same template for the individual windows. I had some trouble with bleed through , that is why the edges are not as sharp as I would have liked. I think more, lighter coats of paint would have helped that. The red above the windows is red sharpie, my hand wasn't steady enough with the paint brush but I could follow the indentation with the sharpie. I will shoot some more pics and post them in a little bit.
Randy


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Well the sharpie matched the color pretty good from what I am seeing. 

I wonder how a darker shade of red would have looked instead?
Or a lighter shade of red. 
For that matter I wonder how a whole different color would have looked.

I think they look great. :thumbsup:
Did you paint the insides too?


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Big difference! Nice Job :thumbsup: The first I have seen on these type of cars. I have a few that could use this treatment too!


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## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

picture of the whole shebang!


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## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

I did paint the insides the same red, more to preserve and hide them a little. I have another original set of these cars, They are red with brown tops and the window shades are green!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I am thinking if the engine and tender were red it could be the Red Comet Train.

Looks great. 
Nice all together.:thumbsup:


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I'd be proud to have those om my track! The windows came out great, I think the lines look crisp. Great job, and they look good on the bridge too!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Randy,

Those look great! Nice redo!

You might try using a fine-point black Sharpie to add a rectangle line in the door panels. Should be relatively simple to do, and would make those doors "pop". Maybe cut a credit-card rectangular template, and trace around the outside?

Cheers,

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

A agree, fine job on the restoration! If they're not perfect, they're pretty darn close!


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