# Total DCC control..is it worth the time and effort?



## luvadj (Jul 3, 2017)

My latest project on the layout has left me dissatisfied...and I wondered what everyone else felt about it.

The goal was to fully automate the layout with DCC which meant switches and lighting along with loco operation. I found some Lenz LS110's on Ebay and hooked them up with some great connectors called "Power Plugs" from Ideal Industries that I found at home depot. I can plug and unplug them at will to the programming track to adjust dwell time as they're mostly Atlas snap switches.

They work fine but I find it a hassle constantly pushing buttons to access an accessory, then tell the system which switch to operate and then which position I want the switch to be in. It seems much easier to just slide a snap switch and push it once for each switch. So for now I've disconnected the LS110's from the power station.

Has anyone else tried to fully automate their layout and how do they feel about operating their layouts on nothing but DCC?


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## johnfl68 (Feb 1, 2015)

DCC is a tool, and it is up to you to choose how to use that tool.

Some people take it all the way with JMRI controlling everything on the layout, fully automated with time tables, etc.

Some people use DCC to help control things that are in hard to reach places on larger layouts, and use local control for easy to reach things.

Some people just use DCC for controlling engines.

It's *your* layout. Really it is up to you as to what you do and don't do with DCC. If you are unhappy with it, then do things the way that will make you happy.


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## D&J Railroad (Oct 4, 2013)

If you're using Tortoise machines, you can set them up with a SE8C board so you only have one momentary push button next to the turnout (or where ever else you want to put it) and you can also use your DT402 series throttle to control the turnout. The momentary push button is: push once to throw the turnout. Push it again to throw the turnout back the other way.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

My DCC system is only for control of the locomotives. Turnouts and indicator lights for the turnouts are controlled via separate controllers, push buttons, and servos from Tam Valley Depot.

That's exactly the right level for me, and it was totally worth the (not very much) trouble to set it up.


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## D&J Railroad (Oct 4, 2013)

The DS54 is controlled through DCC. The signal control is passed over the loconet. Data from the BDL168 is passed over the loconet.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Here is a discussion of an automated layout.

There is a video of operating running trains
near the end of the thread.

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=129170&page=2

Don


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## sachsr1 (Mar 3, 2016)

I ran into the same problem with DCC control of turnouts. I found it cumbersome to change turnouts from my PowerCab. At first I used my iPad to access a JMRI layout, but even that became kind of annoying. I control my layout from an island in the middle, so I'm never more than 10 feet from a turnout. I added fascia buttons near all the turnouts on my line, and I'm doing a control panel for the yard area. I also added a tiny bit of route automation to one turnout. My two main loops come together at one turnout, and I keep forgetting to throw the turnout. The worst part was just past the turnout was a bridge, so I had to take all the cars completely off the track to re-rail it. I just added two reed switches to each section leading up to the turnout, and glued strong little magnets under each loco. The reed switches trigger the turnout to change automatically. That one turnout was about 50% of my total switch hitting. 
I really like gadgets and electronics, but I found out it way easier to hit a button.


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## Mark VerMurlen (Aug 15, 2015)

I went to full automation with my layout. I would agree with you that throwing turnouts via a DCC throttle is cumbersome. I went with a touch screen PC to control my layout. I can throw turnouts by simply touching a turnout on the computer screen. Better yet, I can have the computer throw the turnouts for me. As others have said, you can go as simple or complex as you want. Lots of options/ideas already given up above. For details on my layout, I have a thread showing its construction. Start at http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=53721&page=5 where I start working on the full DCC control system.

Mark


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## RT_Coker (Dec 6, 2012)

This is in response to the tread title “Total DCC control..is it worth the time and effort?”.

After making and disassembly a medium size DCC layout, my response is no. 

DCC is basically a one-way signal and the track is a problematic signal path. Yes it can be augmented with other wired busses, but that is not DCC.

Some of the important DCC specifications are (or at least were about 2 years ago) nothing more that recommendations. Even though my DCC units were all from the same major train manufacturer, they “could be used with” (require user workarounds) but were not compatible with each other.

With today’s available and inexpensive robotic hardware it is possible to build a “Total control” layout that requires no wires (or “track” wires) connecting modules (sections) of the layout. However, most such layouts would probably provide a 2 wire DC power system.
Bob


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## fcwilt (Sep 27, 2013)

My layout is fully automated using LocoNet compatible hardware for all control/sensing purposes and a computer program call Train Controller.

BUT before I retired I was a computer programmer for many, many years.

So automating my layout in this way combined two interests.

I am very pleased with the results.

I can run the layout in "automatic mode" for demo purposes (or just to enjoy watching) or I can use my wireless handheld controllers and run the layout in the conventional way.

One thing that can be done, that I really like, is to have the computer program running one or more "through" trains while I handle a local freight.

When using the handheld controllers for running a train, turnout control can be done using the handheld or the computer program but I added an additional method.

Using an Arduino MEGA 2560 board I designed a system to use 12 key keypads mounted on the fascia. 

The layout is simple enough that it is easy to remember the number assigned to a given turnout or crossover. There are also numbers assigned to storage tracks in yards and such so a single number aligns all needed turnouts.

I also have electro-magnetic uncouplers placed as needed and these can be controlled from the keypad as well.

JFYI the big red button is an emergency stop button.

Frederick


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## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*installing a DCC component in an older Athern gp7-9*

Does anyone here have the knowledge of converting over an older GP7-9 dc Athern that was made before DCC??
I'd rather not do the conversation with a trailing box car that holds the electrical components. I'd like to do lash ups to increase pulling power.
I can live without sound for now. :hah: "electrical component"= a DCC decoder 
Will an "N" scale component work?
Because its smaller?
Thank you in advance
Regards,tr1


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## santafealltheway (Nov 27, 2012)

tr1 said:


> Does anyone here have the knowledge of converting over an older GP7-9 dc Athern that was made before DCC??
> I'd rather not do the conversation with a trailing box car that holds the electrical components. I'd like to do lash ups to increase pulling power.
> I can live without sound for now. :hah: "electrical component"= a DCC decoder
> Will an "N" scale component work?
> ...


same as any other loco... Isolate motor, install decoder wires according to diagram.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Don't know the innards of that loco but today's
DCC decoders are so small you should be able
to fit it in somewhere. The Digitrax I've used
are hardly bigger than a postage stamp.

Some tips:

Before unwiring, determine which motor tab
is connected to the right side wheels. The decoder
manual will tell which wire goes to that tab. Important
so that loco direction will match controller.

Make sure that neither motor tab is in any way
connected to the metal frame.

The output of the decoder for the head and reverse
lights is 12 v DC. It's ok for existing incandescent bulbs, you'll
need a 470 or so ohm resister if you convert to LEDs.
The blue decoder wire is LIGHTS POSITIVE.

Most of todays decoders can handle 1.5 amps
for the motor. That is sufficient for most older
locos. If you are uncertain do a stall test. Connect
a multimeter set to amps in one wire from DC power
pack to track. Place loco on track Hold loco as you
run up the power, then press down on loco until
the motor stalls, note the amp reading. If it's not
over 1 amp you'll be OK...more and you should
replace the motor.

Don


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