# KW repair help



## clayman (Dec 17, 2011)

So I got my KW today from ebay on a lark; owner said it "hummed" but didn't know anything else about it. I took the top off and noted that 2 of the binding posts have lost their contact wires and appear to be broken. They go to the two posts pictured here. (I am hoping reattaching these is the only thing I have to worry about. Pix for your review and comments attached.) How do I remove these old posts and secure them to the case?

Also, the cord is beginning to get a bit brittle. I noted on another thread about replacing and the associated frustration accompanying that task. Ideas on that as well?

thanks


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## TrainLarry (Jan 15, 2012)

The original binding posts were riveted in place. Replacements screw in place, making repair much easier. Part# T-159T, available from Brasseur Electric Trains.

Larry


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

I just purchased some replacement posts. They are indeed the screw on, and work flawlessly.


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## BigAl56 (Dec 14, 2011)

You can get a complete set of replacement posts on ebay for a few bucks. Pick up a replacement power cord while your at it. Also, how are the rollers? Might as well replace those too if they are worn.


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## clayman (Dec 17, 2011)

Ah, the rollers and cord issue....I have met the intimidator. 

You wizards have been very good in your various posts explaining it is an easy repair and fix. I plan to replace both, but need a STEP BY STEP, DUMB GUY DOING THE WORK explanation. I am naturally curious, not scared of electricity, but honestly, don't want to bust something else in my quest to "repair" . Hell, I even am skittish about bending the tabs on the coil bracket just to get started. Please indulge me. Remember: baby step instructions.


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## BigAl56 (Dec 14, 2011)

Here is a silent step by step video I found that shows how to replace the rollers.


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## clayman (Dec 17, 2011)

Excellent! thank you. I can handle that; I didn't think to check youtube. Now give the me the dumb guy way to properly replace that cord and I am one happy camper!


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## BigAl56 (Dec 14, 2011)

When you get the transformer open replacing the cord will be self evident. You will need a soldering iron though. Her'es a couple of tips. Match up the ribbed (neutral) lead of the new cord to the old. If you do not care about authenticity you can obtain a cheap replacement cord by purchasing an ordinary extension cord in the store and chopping the female end off.


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## clayman (Dec 17, 2011)

Al, between you and GRJ, I have my lifelines. Thanks.

Now switching gears on you: Both my 6520 and one of the lighted cabooses have intermittent lights. I suspect the roller is not getting constant contact on the middle rail. How do I "tighten up" the rollers for constant contact?


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## TrainLarry (Jan 15, 2012)

You may need to clean the track, wheels and pickup rollers with naphtha to help alleviate flickering of the lights. 

Larry


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Also, roll the car on the track by hand to see if the pick up roller is making constant contact with the rail. Sometimes they can be bent a bit or need a spring adjusted etc. But the lights do flicker a bit. There is a fix , soldering on a diode or something. Someone here can explain it if you go that route!


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## clayman (Dec 17, 2011)

ok, I am progressing along. I got the new cord and replacement posts from Jeff at the Train Tender. (On a side note: what a vendor! The guy ships stuff BEFORE he gets paid. WOW! But all of you knew that. Thanks for the recommendation to use this guy. He is good). Here's the questions:

1) Should I just solder the various wire leads to some rings and then solder the rings to the posts? Or should I put a nut on the inside to secure as well. What is the best method for attachment inside the case?

2) I inadvertently pulled the resistor wire from the "boot" to the circuit breaker. Do I just re-solder and am good to go?

As always, thanks for the help folks. Mr. Thumbs is indeed grateful.


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## BigAl56 (Dec 14, 2011)

clayman said:


> 1) Should I just solder the various wire leads to some rings and then solder the rings to the posts? Or should I put a nut on the inside to secure as well. What is the best method for attachment inside the case?


For #1 the posts did not come with nuts and washers? Usually they do. That's how I repair them.


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## clayman (Dec 17, 2011)

ok, never mind. dumb move on my part. I viewed the washer as just a securing mechanism for the other side of the case. I can just place the ring between the washer and the case and be good to go. I got it. 

Now to Question #2.................


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## jimtone (Nov 11, 2014)

BigAl56 said:


> When you get the transformer open replacing the cord will be self evident. You will need a soldering iron though. Her'es a couple of tips. Match up the ribbed (neutral) lead of the new cord to the old. If you do not care about authenticity you can obtain a cheap replacement cord by purchasing an ordinary extension cord in the store and chopping the female end off.


I have 2 Marx transformers with one being model 309 and a 319 and the 309 needs a cord change (brittle). There is no ridge or polarity markings on either of these transformers. Is there any documentation of someone making a cord change to a Marx transformer? Thx, Jimi


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

You don't need to worry about the polarity of the power cord. The transformer outputs are fully isolated from the 120 volt power.

When I replace power cords on my transformers, I buy extension cords from Home Depot and polarize all the transformers the same. When I plug them into a power strip, the U terminals can all be connected together and the A,B,C,D terminals all have voltages that are close together.


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## sanepilot (Mar 11, 2012)

*Kw 190*

Hi,Do a google search [or your browser] for the repair manual kw190. I have it on my computer and can`t find it.






This is just one of many hits. I may have gotten it off the forum here..

Hope this helps,sane--The folks here will help as you see. Everybody have a great week.:smilie_daumenpos:


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