# Shelf outline layout



## bdrilling33 (Feb 16, 2015)

Hello all, 

I have been a fan of model trains ever since I was 6 or 7 when I would spend hours piecing together random HO track segments that my grandpa stuffed in a closet (from the last time I drug it all out) only to play with it for 20 mins lol. I always wanted to have a full set up but could never stay with it. Now that I'm older and have a home and kids, I would like to share with them what I wish I had. Although this may not be the best way to start, it's the most practical for my situation.

I would like to run a shelving system around the board of a spare room I have. While this may sound simple, the room has vaulted ceilings that come to a point at the center. Two of the 4 sides of the room, the ceiling starts to pitch up at different levels. When I get a chance I'll post a rough sketch of what I'm working with. I think it's going to take some doing with grades and maybe some suspended track from the ceiling.

I like I would like to go with a larger scale so that it can easily be seem. Controls may have to be minimal unless heat and cold isn't an issue, in that case I have plenty of attic space that the room backs up to. Scenery isn't of much concern on the front end, I will probably have some fence posts on the outside etc. some of my concerns are the grades I may have to encounter. There may be a way around them but I would lose track space. Another obstacle is that I will have to have a an s curve if I want to make my way around the boarder completely, this may not be possible with scale I want...idk. Like I said, some dimensions and pictures would help.

I'm open to any ideas or suggestions. I'll post a sketch and pictures soon, hopefully tonight.

Thanks
BD


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## jfynyson (Nov 10, 2014)

I'm in process of building a shelf layout as well. I will have it about 88 inches above the floor following the perimeter of my son's room . I have 4 corners of course but also 2 of those "s" curves to deal with. All total roughly 47 ft of track. I already have HO scale trains from back in the day so not spending money on a larger gauge. Straight single line of DC so nothing fancy at all. I just finished my son's bunk bed / loft so he will control the train from up there thus no need for a larger scale when it'll actually be at his eye level up there. I chose 100% flex track and will have wire track feeders about every 5-6 ft of track length. Larger scale may be able to get by with more distance between but not sure. I'll be using birch plywood so it'll look decent. My math and cut list shows me I should be able to cut all out of only 2 sheets of 4x8 plywood and still have a lot of waste. I got decorative wrought iron wall shelf brackets from a Hobby Lobby for only $2.50 each. They will be used every ~ 4 ft. Anyways just blabbering about what I'm doing but can't wait to see your plans. I have a build thread on this forum and will update it once the track comes in. Supposed to deliver tomorrow but we're in the middle of a winter storm so I don't expect to see them tomorrow.

Best of luck


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## Bwells (Mar 30, 2014)

Welcome to the forum. Are you talking about a suspended layout from the ceiling or the standard around the room layout on legs? You did mention a larger scale, what scale are you considering? My guess is G scale.


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

To make any reasonable informed suggestions we really need to see the space involved. Heat and cold will certainly be an issue, track and electrics don't like extremes of either. You may also find operating uncomfortable as well. 

If you intend to use a large scale like G or O the cost will be a lot more than the more popular HO or N. Track, controllers, locos and stock come in at a much higher price. If you are prepared for that then fine.

Look forward to seeing some pics.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Yes, agree with Cycleops. To get the most valid suggestions you
should give us a drawing of the area you plan to use illustrating
the various obstacles. Add measurements to it.

If you don't have an appropriate computer program to produce the
drawing, simply take photograph of your drawing on a piece of
paper.

Don


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## bdrilling33 (Feb 16, 2015)

Thanks for all the feedback guys. Yeah I knew more info would be needed, I just wanted to get some wheels turning; mission accomplished lol. I have a limited set of skills in auto cad so i think I can come up with something usable. I will take some picture as well to assist with the drawings. I'll get a rough sketch worked up then adjust the measurements when I can get home and take them.

Oh and to some of the questions.

Like I said, I would like a larger scale but is the $$$ get to high I may have to go to something smaller.

I think a simple shelf would be alight for some places, but there are parts where I think a suspended type. Once I send the pictures you will see what I mean 

Thanks
BD


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## bdrilling33 (Feb 16, 2015)

OK, here's what I came up with. There is a print out of the views of the room and the DWG cad file of the same thing can be found here

```
https://www.dropbox.com/s/f7gbycnu438if5c/Train%20Room%20CAD.dwg?dl=0
```
. Also attached are a few pictures of the room. Please excuse the mess, its a 2 year old's play room. Let me know what you think and if you need anything other info.

All dimensions are scaled 1'' = 1'

thanks for the help
BD

WEST WALL



SOUTH WALL



EAST WALL



NORTH EAST CORNOR



NORTH WEST CORNOR



NORTH WALL



Dimensions


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## cole226 (Feb 8, 2013)

if it were me, i would probably do a shelf around 3 walls. keep it level at the height just above door moulding, and suspend from ceiling on the side that goes down to the short wall.
thats just my thought


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## bdrilling33 (Feb 16, 2015)

cole226 said:


> if it were me, i would probably do a shelf around 3 walls. keep it level at the height just above door moulding, and suspend from ceiling on the side that goes down to the short wall.
> thats just my thought


Yeah that's like exactly what I was thinking and keep it level the whole way around.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

If the train can go all the way around the room you
could use any scale.

If, however, you go on only 3 walls the need to loop
around for continuous running would somewhat limit you
to HO or N. Even so you are going to need about 4 foot
width at each end to accomodate the curves. Using 0 or 027
track you could also use a 4 foot width on the ends.
The 0 gauge would also make possible a 'dogbone' type
of layout that in HO or N would need to be DCC with 
reverse loop controllers. There could be a single track along
the wall with loops at each end for reversing.

Don


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## bdrilling33 (Feb 16, 2015)

I see what you mean. That was going to be my next question was what type of track I would need. I have noticed that there seem to be different styles of larger track, I assume mostly for turning radius's. 

So if I were to do like Cole said and go all the way around at the same level and just suspend the track from the ceiling on the lower side (which would make it hang more toward the center of the room) how should I handle the north west corner? I was also thinking that I could have a two or three track "Change station" on the north wall...what do you think?


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

The choice of which scale would want to take into consideration
several factors.

Space available...N for little, HO for fair amount, and O for 
larger.

Cost...O is the most expensive, HO less so, and N a little less.

Your ability to work with small things...N is quite tiny. HO is
more or less the 'norm' in modelling. O gauge is very easy
for most people see and work with. This size factor is
important because you will have to do service and repairs 
to the locomotives and cars. Many older people go to HO or O for
this reason.

Visibility...this comes into play because you plan a layout somewhat
higher than the normal 'table' height. 0 scale would be the most
visible, and HO just a little less so. N almost out of sight.

The layout design...N or HO operate on 2 rail DC or DCC. DCC
is recommended especially if you use the dogbone out and back
design. O gauge is mostly AC and has no reverse loop problems since
its running rails are both the same electrically. The dog bone out and
back would have no wiring complexities.

Not clear what you mean by 'change station'.

Don


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## bdrilling33 (Feb 16, 2015)

DonR said:


> Not clear what you mean by 'change station'.
> 
> Don


Ha, that's what the quotes were for. Meaning where one can be parked, while another is running if that's even possible. I remember when I used to play with them as a child it was a all or nothing deal on which ones move. 

I think I need to tally up how much track I will need then start to see how much $$$ I will be looking at just in track. The shelving while straight forward will probably not be up to me (the wife said she gets to pick what it sits on ha) Is it wise to start with a set then buy additional track as needed or should it all be pieced together?

I have been trying to figure out how I should build the suspended section of the layout and come across loco-boose.com. They have a pretty nice solution but on the spendy side. I think I can DIY something similar.

BD


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

You can park one in a siding if the turnout is 'dead frog', in other words power only flows in the direction it is switched. 
You could buy a starter set and add track but it won't save you much compared to the total cost. In the larger scales track and point work are going to be the biggest outlay, maybe about three or four times the cost of HO. Locos will be pricey too.


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## bdrilling33 (Feb 16, 2015)

Ah I see, that could work with what I'm thinking

point work?


I've priced some starter sets at 300 - 500 and I'm sure that wont include much track. Speaking of track, I really haven't found a great place to purchase from. there are a few hobby shops around town that I plan on going to over the weekend but I'm sure I cab find better prices on the web. anyone have any suggestions? I've followed some of the links in the general section but some links are dead.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

There are several on line hobby shops that offer dependable
deliveries. Google HO (or whatever gauge) flex track and you'll
get a host of replies and you'll see the various prices. You'll
want to check shipping also. The shops location could add
$ to that cost. I have had good service from ModelTrainStuff.com
and also FavoriteSpot. 

Cycleops has suggested a spur track where you can turn off the
power. You could also use a 'passing siding' which could offer
that ability. As mentioned, if the turnouts you select have
'power routing' you would not need a switch. The section of
track connected to these is 'turned off' when the turnout
points are set to 'straight'. When set to 'divert' the power
is automatically turned on. 

If you use the dogbone design layout with a single track in
the middle you would want a passing siding in the straight
section so a train going 'East' would divert to the passing
siding while the train going 'West' would go by it on the
main. It would be as long as the longest train you run.

Have you settled on what Gauge? So many of our responses
would be more helpful if we know what gauge you will use.

Don


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## bdrilling33 (Feb 16, 2015)

I'll check those sites out and see what I can find. As if now I'm leaning towards O, from what I've seen so far I think I can swing the added cost


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

O gauge would be an excellent choice, in my opinion,
for what you want to do.

The 0 turnouts can be wired to automatically throw
so as to avoid derailments. That would be an
important advantage. With them, even a dogbone
with loops at each end could run continuously with
no need to be throwing switches. The O 3 rail track
would eliminate the reverse loop problem.

Don


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## bdrilling33 (Feb 16, 2015)

Well I got a hold of AnyRail and got it sketched up on how I think the layout should be. the entire gridded area is the dimensions of the room. The block on the lower right corner is as it is in the pictures.



in all its just under 60' of track. I didn't like having to use 4 switches but for the tracks to be parallel that what I ended up having to do (I fought it for like 20 mins and couldn't get it lined up right) I'm a little worried about catching that corner on the Northwest wall, I guess I could always bring it out some just to be safe.

See any other issues I missed?

I checked out a hobby shop today here in town and they didn't have much for O scale...only had a couple start sets and some verities of 2 rail track...I was kind of bummed. I may just piece everything together as previously mentioned. what should I be looking at as far as electronics go?

thanks
BD


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## cole226 (Feb 8, 2013)

if u use tubular 3 rail or gargraves track u can cut to fit with dremel or hacksaw. also gargraves has flex track, make ur own curves, 37" length.


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## bdrilling33 (Feb 16, 2015)

Yeah I probably should have mentioned that I plan to use Gargraves. Yeah I tried to get lined up right and just gave up lol


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