# Junk Box



## T-Man

After Jim's addition I thought I would address some of the frames.

The first one I was ready and got a Babe Ruth shell for buck. I removed the top paint with rubbing compound, paint remover , scotchbrite pad and a screwdriver for the edges. It fists nice. I finished it with the acrylic nonwax.








.
..


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## T-Man

*3464 boxcar*

The next frame I found out was a 3464 boxcar that has an activated plunger for a man to open the door. As it turned out I have a shell in my junk box. Plus I have one whole in my collection.








..
..









Obviously I don't have all the parts but it's a start.


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## imatt88

T,

I'd like to see your junk box


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## T-Man

*6462*

The trade secret is that it IS the cellar!. Actually I constantly add and remove and fix stuff from it. I work on my adding to my parts box, that!, can be interesting.

The next frame was a gondola.B&M is the newest expert after his large purchase. The one next to it is a poultry car frame. It is larger than the boxcax and it also has a man at the door activation.


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## T-Man

*2682*

The last frame from Jim is a 2682 brown caboose with a box coupler. I don't have a spare shell so I showed one that I have.


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## Reckers

That reminds me...you probably know AF made some HO scale stuff. I recently got a parts assortment (Stillakid pointed it out to me because of the boiler-front). It had an AC field (coil, whatever you want to call it) that looks like it's from an HO size engine. Just like the AF S scale, but smaller. Thought I'd mention it in case anyone was desperately seeking one.


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## T-Man

*The 1009 Scout uncoupler*

This gem has my interests. Supposively so common, but I can't get a picture of one. I want to know what part is missing. So here it is.


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## tjcruiser

T-Man,

Re: the 1009 uncoupler ... interesting find. My 1958 #1590 set came with a manual uncoupler somewhat similar, though made of plastic (not sheet metal), I think. It has a little lever that you push sideways, then that cams into two "cheek plates" (????) that pop up between the inner/outer rails. Then, with these raised, when a car drives over, the cheek plates grab the round disc on the underside of the coupler/truck and open up the knuckle.

The hand lever on your gizmo looks more like a push-pull to me, rather than a side-to-side. Do you have any suspicion / evidence that this gizmo worked for magnetic couplers? Or do you think it was for non-magnetic (and non-electronic) manual couplers?

I'll poke around in my Lionel books a bit, but I can't say that I recall ever seeing anything like this.

TJ


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## T-Man

It's for a Scout non magnetic 40's vintage used I believe for those obsolete Scout couplers. I have the plastic rig that you mentioned. It's listed but no pictures can be found.


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## Stillakid

T-Man, I do know that the piece came with my orignal Lionel Scout Set (1948), if that helps.


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## T-Man

That's the funny part in my search I can find what sets it came with but no picture. Jim do you think there is a piece missing?


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## Stillakid

Lionel 1009 Manumatic Track Section

http://www.lionel-train-set.com/default.htm

They are mentioned in all the scout Sets.


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## Stillakid

Bob, I seem to remember there being a piece with an adjustable threaded piece sticking up. The adjustment nut was similar to a post nut for a transformer. I'll keep looking thru all the boxes of junk



Big Ed & Bob, it's, "Search The Junk Box Time!":laugh:

Do either of you know of a dealer that specializes in "Junk Box Sales?", or am I just gonna keep searching Evil-bay?

The Observation Car I just won(got anything new-thread), has no roof. It's an 8 1/2" car with no screw holes, but a rolled edge. take a look at the posted photos. I don't think a Lionel roof will fit

Thanks,
Jim


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## tjcruiser

T-Man,

I found a couple of things in my books. The first is a Manumatic Uncoupler from 1948 ... it looks to me like this was a PREcursor to your version. The second is a Manumatic Uncoupler from 1949 ... looks similar/identical(?) to yours.

Also ...

Can this be right ... a mint 1009 sold for $280 ?!?!?
http://www.ambrosebauer.com/lotdetail.php?auction=6&lot=139

Hope this helps!

TJ

Circa 1948:










Circa 1949:


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## tjcruiser

Maybe more info in this Instruction Book currently being listed on ebay? Lionel publication 1110-16 8-49 .... likely Aug 1949.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Lionel-Scout-Tr...ewItem&pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item2a06054cea


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## T-Man

TJ, the second picture says it all. It shows the center piece that I am missing .Sort of a squished frog piece. I didm't think of looking at the old catalogs 1949. I may not have that one on disc.

Jim the nut belongs to a 153c contact it has nothing to do with the uncoupler. The piece you gave me is the bottom base plate.

Now I have something to look for at shows. That reminds me of more junk that got away.

This is a coupler adapter.One that I made that resembles the tt-100 or the the ts-162.The 162 has a lower adapter on one side. These can be found in junk boxes. The trick is knowing what they are. I saw these once and gave up in a brain blowout and haven't seen any since. SO keep the eyes out for these.


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## T-Man

*2682 caboose prewar roof*

In my constant battle to roof a convertible world, I the T-man have tackled this endeavor in the junk box. Jim will recognized this as a discarded piece of trash. This is my story .

It starts with a roofless shell. I gave it the scotch brite treatment and floor non wax. Looks Good!. Then a small piece of metal. It's all in, how to fit it.


The rough fit.









Now to go from this to that.









I started with slits and cut the corners. The piece is high so I am trying to set it down correctly.










When I was close, I went from tin snips to a dremel cutting wheel.Cutting up toward the top. The cutting off the tabs.









Then the windows were tought, one side is better than the other.









Then paint
.









Done.
The frame is next.


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## tjcruiser

T-Man's Amazing Industrial Roofers strike again! Nice job.

That caboose is pretty similar to the junker I have in my newly aquired flood-victim freight set. I was intrigued to see that the roof of the caboose (main roof, not cupola) is actually integral with the side shell ... all one metal piece. No pop-on roof, like in other cars I've seen.

What, specifically, is "floor non wax" ???

TJ


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## Stillakid

T-Man, that's a "Fine" piece of work! So much so, that perhaps I need to make another trip to the construction site down the road. Yesterday, I saw large pieces of duct work, sitting in the top of the dumpster, gleaming in the sunlight. I think they were calling my name!!!!


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## Big Ed

Stillakid said:


> Bob, I seem to remember there being a piece with an adjustable threaded piece sticking up. The adjustment nut was similar to a post nut for a transformer. I'll keep looking thru all the boxes of junk
> 
> 
> 
> Big Ed & Bob, it's, "Search The Junk Box Time!":laugh:
> 
> Do either of you know of a dealer that specializes in "Junk Box Sales?", or am I just gonna keep searching Evil-bay?
> 
> The Observation Car I just won(got anything new-thread), has no roof. It's an 8 1/2" car with no screw holes, but a rolled edge. take a look at the posted photos. I don't think a Lionel roof will fit
> 
> Thanks,
> Jim


This is the first time I have seen this thread?

B&M's been editing it?

What exactly are you looking for? A roof? Or the 1009?


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## T-Man

Hi Ed,
Jim needs a roof for an AF passenger coach.
I have a 1009 but not all the parts.

Jim, the non wax is Future Acrylic Floor covering, essentially it is not a wax but does the same thing.


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## T-Man

*2682*

Not exactly a 2000 series since it does no have the automatic decoupler. I did paint it up.


The good thing about making a part is that it let me use the car untill I find a replacement piece.


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## T-Man

*Disney Parade Float*

I have this DIsney Caboose without a Cupola so I got a little inventive and came up with a parade float. I have two Disney Figures to boot. With some craft sticks and cinamon acrylic I came up with this. Non Railroad but Fun.


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## Stillakid

*A Float?*

Is it "Mardi Gras Time?" Where all the women? Who's got the beads?
(Bet Reckers shows up with a bunch of them!)

:laugh::laugh::laugh:

Bob, looks good and and bet you had fun making it!


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## Reckers

I think you ought to find a frame and some couplers for it!


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## tjcruiser

"Arrrr ... maties ... ol' Donald be swabbin' the deck while I'll be manning the helm. Arrrr!!!"


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## Reckers

"Avast, maties! We're surrounded by three-railers, out here! We'll have to fight our way free!"


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## Big Ed

T-Man said:


> I have this DIsney Caboose without a Cupola so I got a little inventive and came up with a parade float. I have two Disney Figures to boot. With some craft sticks and cinamon acrylic I came up with this. Non Railroad but Fun.


You got to get goofy and Pluto and maybe Minnie mouse walking the plank.:laugh:


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## T-Man

Ok I'll get some wheels, and look for more characters. This is leading to a video on custom rolling stock.
The photo story is in my photo bucket(in signature) under Disney Float on how to make it. The bow was the hardest to attach. I needed two rails underneath to sit on the roof and support the bow some cross members held it but I had to add the decorative pieces to fill in the gap and give it support. The sides glued up like clapboard and gave me a ledge for the deck. Simple construction.


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## T-Man

ARHHHH! She floats on the rails. The telltales removed. A simple project? She needs lights and a crew. Oh My. Aflag would do too! Keptain we used a blasted Exploding car frame with a block of wood in the keel.ARHHHH!
The outside loop proved her worth with no obstructions. WE have the finest bamboo skewers in her rigging too.


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## Stillakid

*Snarf!!!!!!!!!!*

T-Man, just wanted you to know that you owe me a keyboard

I was just taking a swallow of coffee when I opened your thread. Spewed everywhere:laugh::laugh::laugh:

ROFLMAO!

Only you!!!


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## Rocky Mountian

T-Man said:


> ARHHHH! She floats on the rails. The telltales removed. A simple project? She needs lights and a crew. Oh My. Aflag would do too! Keptain we used a blasted Exploding car frame with a block of wood in the keel.ARHHHH!
> The outside loop proved her worth with no obstructions. WE have the finest bamboo skewers in her rigging too.


 That a cool layout 
Do you ever loose anything and than find it right in front of you:laugh::laugh:


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## T-Man

Thanks!
I have lost screws.  I compete with "Where's Waldo"
I also have some poor videos with links in my signature. 
Just about everything there has a thread.
The table is presented under Layouts. It's a bunch of loops, 5 trains worth with a lot of fluff in between. The L shape trolley line is just lower than the Disney car. I am at the point where I have to search for a car though. Projects! The more I do, the more I need.
If something interest you let me know.
Layout
Recently we have been waiting for the much anticipated, S Scale launch pad to be completed. I want to know how a real layout should look! I have heard (read) so much, but have'nt seen any on rails yet.


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## Reckers

Arrrrggg!!!!! Shiver me timbers, if that's not magnificent work!!!!


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## Stillakid

Bob, what about the Marx motor?


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## Rocky Mountian

T-Man said:


> Thanks!
> I have lost screws.  I compete with "Where's Waldo"
> I also have some poor videos with links in my signature.
> Just about everything there has a thread.
> The table is presented under Layouts. It's a bunch of loops, 5 trains worth with a lot of fluff in between. The L shape trolley line is just lower than the Disney car. I am at the point where I have to search for a car though. Projects! The more I do, the more I need.
> If something interest you let me know.
> 
> Recently we have been waiting for the much anticipated, S Scale launch pad to be completed. I want to know how a real layout should look! I have heard (read) so much, but have'nt seen any on rails yet.


I checked out some of your videos ther great anytime you get to see a train run is cool
Its all interesting!


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## Stillakid

*uh oh!*

Reckers, I know he's not talking about me

I'd say that The T-Man has fired a shot across your bow, and getting ready to engage you:laugh::laugh::laugh:
(see what happens when he builds Pirate Ships!)


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## Rocky Mountian

T-Man
What scale is that track on the inside of Micky?
I looked at your 09 video again is that HO it just looked bigger for some reason.


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## T-Man

Stillakid said:


> Bob, what about the Marx motor?


I had to think about it. It is in the second 999. Both that and the 400 have trouble with the reversing.
The motors will work but the reverse is still a problem.
Pulling wheels stressed out the wheel puller I need a good one, the battery puller can't take the stress.


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## Big Ed

Rocky Mountian said:


> T-Man
> What scale is that track on the inside of Micky?



It's HO.


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## Rocky Mountian

Thanks big ed I guess I never watched them run together be for.
T-Man your 09 christmas video is great!


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## Big Ed

T Man when he was a little kid.:laugh:


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## Big Ed

Also.........
T Man never said what he was working on in California.:laugh:












Nice work T.:thumbsup:


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## T-Man

Rocky Mountian said:


> Thanks big ed I guess I never watched them run together be for.
> T-Man your 09 christmas video is great!


If you have the right ties it can be O sale narrow gage. I use it as an HO test track.

The 259 yes the 259 ? has arrived don't know if it's an E. It does have an e unit. What a mess.
pics to come with a new thread.

Love the Dino pictures. Only snagged one today at yard sales. (The kid almost bit me) LOL.


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## tjcruiser

"T Man when he was a little kid.:laugh:"










Are you sure???

Did they even have color photographs way back then?
Did they even have cameras way beck then ?!? :laugh:


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## T-Man

*Orange Tank car*

I always thought my Dino was real. Thanks for ruining that memory. LOL

I started with an egg and measured it out. Cut with a wheel and stiffened with epoxy.









Sanded with the dremel drum and a perfect fit. No glue to hold it. The original on the right to show.


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## T-Man

*Babe Ruth*

I got around to adding my one dollar shell to Jim's frame. The wheels I got from B&M . FOr some reason they axle size was large and I had to open of the truck with a tungsten bit. They fit fine. These wheel must be older and are heavy duty. Probably off a larger 800 series car. I just need to find some doors and door frames. The roof is stripped and acrylic coated.


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## T-Man

The latest is the 6812 maintenance car.
Jim supplied me with a stand last winter. Today I found a flatcar. So here it on the rail to recovery.

It needs some railing work, and I used number4 40 5/8th bolts to hold it down.


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## T-Man

*The S Scale did get converted.*

I found it at the show and couldn't resist. I saved the Pikemaster trucks for the parts box and added some plastic three rail shoes. I can say I am running S and it is compatible with 027.


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## T-Man

*6411*

This is my cat lady special that followed me home. The frame is all cast. The wheels cleaned up great. I painted a portion of the frame.


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## tjcruiser

T-Man said:


> This is my cat lady special that followed me home.


:laugh: Now where have I heard that before?!? :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## SkyArcher

That was fun to read...what else do you have in your junk box?


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## T-Man

The thread was started by a Stillakid donation. A box of a bunch of odds and ends. When I come up with something I post it here for readers. I also show what can be done to refit cars, with the before/ after look. Rust can deceiving.


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## T-Man

*6812 railing*

Here I did some railing repair. I did notch he deck for the tooth picks. Super glue and tooth picks to start. I used three on the corners. Add some epoxy for show/strength. The I cut the black connectors on the railing to make room for coper wire gage 18. The more super glue and epoxy. These are the pieces in place, almost complete. 

In the first picture staging is everything. Then I show the two railings in place.









I used a tooth pick on the right to level it out before my final epoxy stage.
See it's not that hard, and with some effort can look well.


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## tjcruiser

T-Man,

Nice fix. Will look near-original once painted.

I picked up a #1646 freight set (ca. 1961 w/ 233 loco) from my sister over the summer. It's all pretty trashed, including a busted railing on the #6343 barrel ramp car. I haven't really dug into the box of bit/parts yet (kinda holding off on THAT project for now), but you're railing repair idea give me hope for that barrel ramp car.

I may ping you down the road for some thoughts/advice when I get into that one.

Cheers,

TJ


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## servoguy

T man,
There is a piece missing. It is a diamond shaped piece that fits over the center rail. When you push down on the lever on the side of this uncoupler, you raise the diamond piece and it uncouples the scout type couplers. I had one in my first scout set I got in 1950. With a little thought, you could probably make the missing piece out of brass.
Bruce Baker


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## T-Man

Bruce, I guess it had to be two pieces, if one went over the center rail? We have a drawing but not an actual picture.

TJ, This is just a trial run. You could remove it all and start from scratch. I almost went with wire looped poles, but didn't. I evem thought about jewelry chain too.


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## tjcruiser

T-Man,

You've likely seen these, but just in case:

http://www.postwarlionel.com/cgi-bin/postwar?ITEM=6812

http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/cd/nonopcar/noc6800n.pdf

http://cgi.ebay.com/LIONEL-ORIGINAL...530896?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item5190bb15d0

http://cgi.ebay.com/Lionel-6812-G-M...599412?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item2a0ae7f234

TJ


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## T-Man

That was nice to get all those links. Normally pictures don't have the detail i want but the library does this time.
I laughed at the 7.50 screw on ebay. Just a dab of epoxy on the end is good enough for me.


The best trick was to just dab the epoxy on without excess. The results were batter. All painted up.










I got the chugger pictures but I have no time today.


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## Big Ed

Thats what I was waiting for...............

The epoxy.

Nothing gets fixed with out at least a little epoxy somewhere.:thumbsup:


Nice job T.:thumbsup:

$7.50 for a screw?
Must have fell out of the sellers head!:laugh:


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## T-Man

*Tender*

Here is a 1666-4 tender shell
My new purchase to revive the junk box.
Jim slipped in a tender frame to me at one time so I rummaged my box and remembered the frame. So now I have a shell for it. It is a whistle shell with the top hole. I has a nice wire job on the back It came with the four screws and has the original posts.(no epoxy). I am going to come back to this one since the frame is blued I was intrigued with the AF bluing thread so now I can try it too.

Oh it has damage the back side coal collar is broken off. I will think about fixing that


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## T-Man

*A meeting of Catladies Anon.*

Hello, my name is T-man. I am here tonight to turn my life around. I have the greatest compulsion to buy the ugliest Lionel trains known to exist. The worst part about it. I can't make them shine like TJ can. So here is my latest wandering from the path of recovery. Take a look, a 1061 out of a junk box for 5 bucks. Made from 1963 to 69. No light,with only forward and cheep rods. No front or rear wheels, a simple 0-4-0. She's mine, all mine. Yep and ugly as sin too. The convertible model.










I cleaned the wheels and the thing runs like a champ. All I wanted was the draw bar too.









With the impressive cab design I found an engine for the Dinosaur train.:smokin:


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## tjcruiser

T-Man,

Too funny! And welcome to Trainheads Anonymous ... though I suspect you've been a silent member for far longer than I! Admitting our problem is the first step on the road to recovery!

I think I envision a T-Rex driving that thing ... head sticking up through the convertible cab, huh?

On a serious note, I see your little orphan has one of those plastic-casing motors ... similar to the one in my new 1646 freight set thread. Is it possible to open up the motor casiing halves without having to remove the drive wheels first ???

Cheers,

TJ


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## T-Man

Only if you break them off. There is no need to go in. Wheel removal may break a plastic piece that holds the magnets. I believe you have them. So if it works fine, Let it be.Maybe I'll get a Scout meeting and take attendance.

The front is in good shape.


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## T-Man

*Natural Weathering*


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## SkyArcher

That's a beautiful locomotive!! Just a little bit of plastic missing. 

My old 1060 ran perfectly right out of the the box once I replaced the cord on the old LW-125 transformer.


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## tjcruiser

T-Man,

That's a great looking tin boxcar. I really like the ladder and door handle.

Now where have I seen cabooses like that before?!? (Are you interested in some "wallpaper" jpg scans for those, by any chance? You'd have to XActo cutout the window openings.)

TJ


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## T-Man

I have at least three cabooses already. This is a good example of surface grunge so for now it stays as an example.There are no heavy rust spots at all.
The 655 is sweet. I found out, that to clean it up well, requires disassembly. It would be just a little more work to repaint. I need box cars, besides the Babe Ruth ones.
The 1061 cleaned up very well. do not think the motor was ever removed the pin was very tight. The only damage is the roof, and the motor mount pins. I do suspect it had a front horn over the boiler front. The 1062 has one and he 1060 may have lost it too.


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## tjcruiser

T-Man,

Do the Scout locos have the motor mounted to the shell with a pin (like my 233) always have the pin inserted/removed from one side, only? I removed my pin, and noticed a knurled, slightly larger "head" on one side. Some standardized way to insert, here?

TJ


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## T-Man

Yes one side has the edges. This is true with the 2026, 2018, 2016 also.
Is it a knurl end? That end goes in last. From flipping the engine over I get confused on the correct side so I am not sure if there is a standard.


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## T-Man

ED,
I was interested in the 1009. Jim was interested in a roof.

TJ,
The non wax is acrylic floor shine.

Better late than never.


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## T-Man

*New Addition*

I got a rusted X6464 frame that I can restore using the gun bluing acid!


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## Big Ed

T-Man said:


> ED,
> I was interested in the 1009. Jim was interested in a roof.
> 
> TJ,
> The non wax is acrylic floor shine.
> 
> Better late than never.



You answered back in June T.
Is the 1009 an uncoupler like the picture TJ posted back then?
I would have to see a picture of the Flyer's roof w/t a ruler next to it . Tin?

I doubt if I have either, 

Though I still occasionally uncover new (old) boxes of goodies that I forgot I had, as I navigate the dark corners of my cluttered dungeon.


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## tjcruiser

T-Man said:


> I got a rusted X6464 frame that I can restore using the gun bluing acid!


T-Man,

I'm in the process of re-bluing another Lionel Jr motor casing. Make sure you get down to good clean bare shiny metal before applying the blue liquid. As long as you have reasonably shiny metal, the bluing process itself is a piece of cake.

Cheers,

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn

The key in bluing is surface prep. I've seen good and really bad bluing jobs on guns, which is where I busted my cherry bluing. I could never justify the cost or mess of a hot bluing tank, so anything that I need that for I send out. I have cold blued a pistol with good results, I think it looks as good as a factory job.  It was a cheap one, so I didn't feel that I was risking much, and it already looked lousy.


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## T-Man

Well the frame after closer inspection is painted. So I painted it. The door guides were in rough shape and i am using the bluing now.

I also have another project, door pegs. They keep a refrigerator car door from closing inward. Just a piece from a paper clip in a groove cut by a dremel cutting wheel. Epoxy to hold it together.



















Vanilla acrylic paint to cover and match.


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## gunrunnerjohn

Those look like the milk car doors, I have several sets of those that I got with some other purchase.


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## T-Man

Yes, they are milk car doors are from a 6472. It's non operating car from 1951.


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## gunrunnerjohn

Well, if you need a set of them, let me know.


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## T-Man

You bet!
I was looking at my junk box and I have another shell without doors.

If you want I will look at you troublesome scout motor. I don't need the whole engine to look at just the motor part will do. Jim stocked me on Scout Parts previously. Thanks Jim! So if you want, send me two sets of doors and the motor.

Bob


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## T-Man

*The thing*

Somewhere I posted a question on what this lever was. Now I know, it is the lever that fits on the bottom of the missle gun to the 6650 car.


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## tjcruiser

Bingo. Spot on.

I reconditioned my 6650 missile car ...

I replaced the rubber diaphragm that's inside the front conical section ... it serves as a "dahpot" of sorts, to dappen the launch lift.

I also had a problem of "premature launch" ... I'd pull the missile (and little prong that it rides on) back to get ready for a launch, but rather than holding that position until I hit the trigger, it would offen self-release.

After a bit of disection and investigation, I found that there's a little wire trigger that rides on a saw-tooth lever inside the launch mechanism. The wire is supposed to hold itself in position between teeth ... pair of teeth is dependent on how far back you pre-position the missile. However, in my case, the saw-teeth had sort of rounded edges ... not sharp enough to hold the trigger wire. So, I grabbed the Dremel, and "went to town" ... filed those teeth (and valleys of teeth) down to sharp points. Worked like a charm ... holds the launch wire exactly in position.

Now ... if only I had something to shoot at ...

(God forbid anyone who suggest I hurl an ICBM at one of my beloved tinplates!)

Cheers,

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn

Send me a PM with your address, and I'll seek out doors and engine and put them in a box. 

To make sure we're on the same page, here's the doors I have, might as well make 100% sure they're what you need.


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## T-Man

*Love me Tender*

No not you John,

You don't have to send me the best. I will give the motor a look over your post was helpful. More fun to come!

Back to the title, I fixed an apron to a tender at least that is what I call
it.


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## T-Man

*The Result*


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## gunrunnerjohn

Looks like JB Weld, that's what I use for that kind of repair.  Came out looking very good!

Doors and engine are in the mail, they went with my tax returns. :laugh:


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## tjcruiser

gunrunnerjohn said:


> Doors and engine are in the mail, they went with my tax returns. :laugh:


Hopefully T-Man gets the doors, and Uncle Sam gets the cash.

Hmmm ...

But then again ...


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## gunrunnerjohn

Well, I'd hope that I could keep the cash, but that's not happening!


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## T-Man

I am very impressed with the motor condition. It will be a challenge.

Now I want to announce another project. Actually it's parts for the 259e but I am temped to do it again. I think somebody stepped on it.


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## gunrunnerjohn

Looks like something bad happened to it. The one on the right came out really nice, are you going to make the other one match?


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## gunrunnerjohn

T-Man said:


> I am very impressed with the motor condition. It will be a challenge.


That's what mystifies me, everything looks great, but it doesn't work!


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## tjcruiser

T-Man,

You'd better watch yourself ... Another 259 ?!?! Pretty soon you'll be addicted to those things the same way I'm addicted to 1681's!

Do you have a motor for the "new" one?

Cheers,

TJ


----------



## T-Man

I'm shopping e bay. I have two extra armatures and one on the radar has wheels and a pickup but no armature. HMMMMMMM

You hold the shell and it screams FIX MEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!


Even though I got it for parts I find myself tap tap tap on the dents. I love the beat up look but the ITCH IS DRIVING ME NUTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


I could paint it yellow and black to match the T man Epoxy Tank car.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

A yellow one, it'll look great in a lashup with the blue one.


----------



## tjcruiser

I have some not-quite perfect (but not too bad) domes if you need them.

TJ


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I think it's safe to say that he may need the domes!


----------



## T-Man

*Dome shapes*

Enjoy








.


----------



## Big Ed

T-Man said:


> I'm shopping e bay. I have two extra armatures and one on the radar has wheels and a pickup but no armature. HMMMMMMM
> 
> You hold the shell and it screams FIX MEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> Even though I got it for parts I find myself tap tap tap on the dents. I love the beat up look but the ITCH IS DRIVING ME NUTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> I could paint it yellow and black to match the T man Epoxy Tank car.



 

What epoxy car? I must have missed it?


----------



## T-Man

I haven't done the tank car yet. They just keep piling up. It was your idea, Ed.


----------



## T-Man

T-Man said:


> I'm shopping e bay. I have two extra armatures and one on the radar has wheels and a pickup but no armature. HMMMMMMM
> 
> You hold the shell and it screams FIX MEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> Even though I got it for parts I find myself tap tap tap on the dents. I love the beat up look but the ITCH IS DRIVING ME NUTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> I could paint it yellow and black to match the T man Epoxy Tank car.


Lost it, Mr 900 plus purchases that it was more valuable.


----------



## Big Ed

T-Man said:


> I haven't done the tank car yet. They just keep piling up. It was your idea, Ed.




When you do it you got to drool a little epoxy up by the dome area.:thumbsup:

I got my painter doing up a 2555 in the Bethlehem Steel colors:thumbsup: for my Bethlehem Steel train.
I also picked up a 3620 search light car he did in B/S colors.:thumbsup:
I got to wait a little as he has to paint it yet.
The 3620 he took off e bay and put on hold for me.

First thing I have bought in months. That is strange for me.


----------



## T-Man

*Dome Despair*

One tap at a time. I used washer to start the rounding. The small drift pin to work the top edges. I set it up in a vise and hammered down. Then a washer inside to work the side edges. 




















Not bad more to do.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

They look a lot more like domes now then they did! 

Of course, I think I'd take TJ up on his offer to send you those.


----------



## tjcruiser

I may withdraw my offer ... those dead doomed domes are actually coming back to life. Who am I to compete with someone who can literally raise the dead?!?


----------



## T-Man

*Tap Tap*

I worked on the boiler too.




















This has turned into a thread 259e Revisted


----------



## T-Man

Thanks John for the doors!!.:thumbsup:

Jim, Thanks for the shell!:thumbsup:

So far I have an MTF car!!!!!!


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Doors look good, glad I could assist.


----------



## T-Man

I tried my hand to blue a frame. The picture is better off than the original. I thought it was cloudy. Not being happy, I painted it.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

The metal has to be really clean and bright. Any imperfections in the metal will be reflected in the bluing. I've done a couple of old guns, some come out great, others just don't take the blue that well. I'm sure it's all in the surface prep.


----------



## T-Man

It has worked well for small spots. I think your right about prep work.

I need the practice, plenty left in the bottle.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

If it's spotless and totally degreased when you start, it should come out looking pretty good.


----------



## tjcruiser

Are you rubbing it with a very fine ScotchBrite pad after the blue dries and sets? That'll help buff it out more evenly a bit. But I agree with John ... I've tried fiddling with Blue on a few things now, and metal surface prep is key.

TJ


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

tjcruiser said:


> metal surface prep is key.


About 98% of the job, after that you just slop the bluing solution on.  A little rubbing after doesn't hurt...


----------



## T-Man

I use a green pad. I get a good film of rust. So when I buff I am tempted to do too much. I guess that is where the uneveness gets in. It was looking ok but it wasn't just getting better.

I may use it on the motor plates. Just to tone the brightness.


----------



## T-Man

*Clean up*

Here is a 6111 from my recent trade with nsr-civic.
I cleaned it rubbing compound and scotch brite and repainted the brackets.
Not a junk box candidate at all. Then some acrylic floor shine.


----------



## tjcruiser

It looks brand new from here! I guess it was only _temporarily_ a junk-box captive!

TJ


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Lettering looks sharp on the sides too, I'd put that one on my tracks!


----------



## T-Man

I thought it was in great shape too.

Here's another with good lettering; 6062.













Before









After


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Looks like that one took an extended bath! 

The one plus of the plastic trucks is it's easy to replace the wheels, I have a supply of those from dead cars in a box.


----------



## tjcruiser

Wow ... that was some rust bucket ...

Hocus-pocus ... all gone now!


----------



## T-Man

*6111 reminder.*

I forgot something about the 6111. 

This car has a derailing feature.
Owners have the habit of squaring off the ladder rungs with the frame.
This prevents the full swing of the truck to negotiate a curve.
So DON"T DO IT.

Shown as is should with flares.


----------



## tjcruiser

Good call ... I've noticed that same step flare on my Range Patrol flatcars. Makes sense now.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I learned about the self-derailing feature on some two dome tankers!


----------



## T-Man

*Whatcha gonna do*



When you used up the last c clip.



Invent the bat clip!










A tad thick but it works!!!!!!


----------



## tjcruiser

Did you make that out of an ordinary washer ???


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Now, that's CHEAP!  Creative, but cheap. :laugh:


----------



## T-Man

*The Words Out*


----------



## T-Man

*More 6062*


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

T-Man, I'm going to send you all the rolling stock from my junkbox for refurbishment, it'll double my inventory.


----------



## T-Man

And miss out on all that fun in fixing them??

I enjoy it and it is fun until the epoxy runs out.


----------



## tjcruiser

T-Man said:


> I enjoy it and it is fun until the epoxy runs out.


I thought I heard Bid Ed swear at some point that you had a lifetime supply of epoxy ?!?


----------



## T-Man

Ed? 
HE just wants the delivery contract.


----------



## Big Ed

tjcruiser said:


> i thought i heard bid ed swear at some point that you had a lifetime supply of epoxy ?!?





t-man said:


> ed?
> He just wants the delivery contract.:d



You all don't know The T man fixed up this engine? ( with epoxy),:thumbsup:
I can see T rolling down the rail now....big smile on his face, in an engineers hat, blowing the whistle.
Like, when he was riding that dinosaur when he was a kid.












He then went and picked up his new old epoxy tanker.
You know T man won't buy anything new. No fun in that, right T man?










He picked up his load of epoxy and brought it home.










But this winter destroyed his home made trestle and he used his epoxy supply up.
He now has to build the trestle again to pickup another epoxy load.

Donations appreciated.


----------



## tjcruiser

Good laugh there, Ed! I like the epoxy tanker ... "two birds with one stone" ... a sh**load of epoxy, and a train car ... who could refuse that?


----------



## T-Man

Here's the story of that very Tanker.

In keeping with this thread. The little no number caboose.

I cleaned the shell and painted the frame. It was the ungly gray finish.

Note the frame has no end handrails.










The left one has handrails. My black painting is good.
For the comparison with another model


----------



## T-Man

*3461*










The Movie


----------



## tjcruiser

I've never seen one of those up close. So is the round black thing underneath the car the solenoid that pushes a lever to flip the lid on top?

TJ


----------



## T-Man

*Push Up*

A small pin gets pushed up by the selenoid.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I have several of these, they're fun cars. If you have a log loader, either the 164 or 364, they're a must-have accessory.


----------



## tjcruiser

Thanks, T-Man!

TJ


----------



## Big Ed

tjcruiser said:


> Thanks, T-Man!
> 
> TJ


Did you play it with sound?

From Doctor Traininstein's Laboratory.

It comes complete with electric zapping sounds.:thumbsup:

Sounds like the sounds made when Frankie came alive.


----------



## tjcruiser

Alright, Ed ... T-Man hasn't started his next thread yet, but my "insider" spy network captured this sneak-peak video of the fix-it wonder working on his next project ...








(Sorry for the silly thread distraction, T ... but I gotta toss Big Ed a couple of funny bones every now and then!)

TJ


----------



## servoguy

This looks like something good to add to almost any layout. However, it is likely, that after the fireworks display none of the electronics would be working any more. The prewar stuff and post war stuff would be OK, though. The kids would love it.
Bruce Baker


----------



## T-Man

MMMMMMM.

I heard it adds texture to the hair.









....


----------



## Big Ed

Nice I could toast a few marshmallows with that!:laugh:

< Hey Ed ... that'll be $2.85, please. Cash or PayPal.  TJ >

Hurry up before Novice corrects me.


You can leave the marshmallows here. Thanks

Nice hair do T.


----------



## Big Ed

Thanks TJ.

Give me more then 24 to edit and I would not bother you.

I think 3 days would be nice.

Tell B&M to include it in with your pay check.:laugh:


----------



## T-Man

*6111*

I got this frame at the last show. It was originally yellow stripped then painted red. I stripped it again. The dollar store oven cleaner worked on the newer paint. Here is is. It has no wheels and a broken rail. I did solder it back/




















The before.


----------



## tjcruiser

T-Man,

Nice strip job. CLEAN!

As you know, those flatcars were used in several configs. I think it's the same as on my 6151 Range Patrol car ...

http://www.postwarlionel.com/cgi-bin/postwar?ITEM=6151

TJ


----------



## T-Man

From your picture ,it is identical. The 6121 is also included. It was not numbered and had pipes instead of dowels as a load. Or was it the other way around?

The orange work caboose 6119 has a similair frame but a different hole pattern,










I may keep this one clear.


----------



## Reckers

Bob, I really love reading your threads on refurbishing equipment. I just wanted to thank you for all the time you put in taking the photos and typing all those posts to explain the process---it really helps to see how a true craftsman does it.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Bob just loves making something out of nothing!


----------



## Reckers

No...he likes making something out of nothing with epoxy!


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Well, epoxy always figures in somewhere. :laugh:


----------



## T-Man

No argument there.

What revs my motor is the result, and seeing the before and after. How did that happen??? So I show it along with tools and technique as much as possible. Sometimes I try things just to see a result (mostly with epoxy). 

I did picture the orange caboose to show the hole pattern. It has a 6111 flatcar hole pattern for the brackets!!!!!!










Also to attach a load to a metal frame is very easy. Just epoxy a magnet to your load.! There I did it, epoxy use strikes again.

In fact the magnet can go underneath and use a metal piece with a protected cover to save on the scratches. Wally World has earth magnets that are super strong too!


----------



## tjcruiser

The "magnet underneath trick" is clever thinking!


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

I have some 1x2x1/2 magnets that will lift almost 100 pounds! If you accidentally stick them to a heavy metal surface long ways, it's very difficult to get them back off! You do NOT want to put two of them close together, they join in a HURRY and actually are very likely to break one or both of them. a

For small and strong magnets, I get them for free from my Sonicare toothbrush heads. Since we change them regularly, I remove the magnets before I toss them. Even the little magnets like this have many pounds of attraction, it's fun seeing my 6 year old grandson trying to remove them from the side of the toolbox!


----------



## tjcruiser

"But remember, boys and girls ... never, NEVER put the tooth brush near Grandpa's hard drive!"


----------



## Reckers

About magnets....office supply stores like Staples carry business card magnets. Essentially, it's a flat plastic magnet cut to business card dimensions with adhesive on one side so you can attach your card. The card becomes an office-drawer or refrigerator magnet. These would probably work well for attaching a load, too, and can be scissor-cut to match the footprint of the load.


----------



## tjcruiser

Reck, speaking of those ...

On most of my restoration projects, I'll use Word to print up a little "Restortation Work By ..." label, stick it on a cut piece of that magnet stuff, and then place it carefully inside or underneath the frame of my train project. It adds a historical note without damaging the train in any way (I hope).

TJ


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

You can get all those card magnets you want for free, they come in phone books, ads, etc.


----------



## T-Man

This is the rail end to a porthole caboose project. A dinosaur probaly took a bite out of this one. With tape on one side and some epoxy, it is good as new.


----------



## tjcruiser

Is that brownish epoxy the quick-set JB? I've used the slow-set, and it's grey. I keep meaning to pick up some quick-set JB ... on my shopping list one of these days.

TJ


----------



## T-Man

I always use the quik set. The color is black it comes across as brown for some reason.


----------



## T-Man

This is my power box set up. I am trying to make a generator.


----------



## T-Man

*Another angle*

I found a grey box and added it to a metal frame. The idea that it raises the box high enough for a snug fit with out any modification to the box..


----------



## tjcruiser

Oh ... I like that! It looks like the generator has a real foundation to its enclosure. If that metal box is galvanized (so it won't rust), I'd suggest you leave it bare metal, rather than painting it. Or maybe a quick clearcoat. The bare metal foundation looks nice to me.

Clever, T!

TJ


----------



## servoguy

Zinc plated steel does not take paint well unless a special primer is used. We used zinc chromate in the past, but some bozo in the EPA decided it was toxic. There is a new primer available.

Alternatively, I think you can etch the zinc with muratic acid


----------



## T-Man

So far a regular primer has done well. Normal paint definitely won't work on the surface but this is just a little project. The acid will take care of the problem and a light sanding helps to. I did epoxy the corners to hide the open seams. I was thinking about a black to offset the grey


----------



## T-Man

This is the black version and I am thinking about adding some decor from a broken game controller.


----------



## Nuttin But Flyer

WOW -- I just stumbled across this thread. Watching what T-Man has accomplished is completely outstanding. He IS the MacGyver of this forum. I have no doubt given a paperclip, a shop rag, duct tape and a Hershey Kiss, he could build a Space Shuttle. Fabulous workmanship T-Man !!!!


----------



## tjcruiser

Nuttin But Flyer said:


> WOW -- I just stumbled across this thread. Watching what T-Man has accomplished is completely outstanding. He IS the MacGyver of this forum. I have no doubt given a paperclip, a shop rag, duct tape and a Hershey Kiss, he could build a Space Shuttle. Fabulous workmanship T-Man !!!!


+1 :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


*How most of us get our epoxy:*











*How T-Man gets his epoxy:*


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

He does know how to make something out of nothing, that's for sure!  I normally am lazy and start with real parts.


----------



## T-Man

Sometimes I can't help myself, I would rather have a box of broken cars than have a new one of equal value.

The transformer car is still in planning and I want to add lights next. I have been sidetracked with the latest set.

In the last picture, I saw the Fed Ex truck rushing parts for TJ!

My last epoxy project was making figures stand up.


----------



## Big Ed

Instead of trying to stand them up you should have worked on making them float.


----------



## T-Man

I have a 1964 set that was exposed to something like a glue.This is a 6142 unnumbered. 



















So I tried the rubbing compound and scotchbrite to get some improvement.










This was the worst section










Photo bucket is having a meltdown I will try later.


----------



## T-Man

*Another Example*

You don't know till you try it. Unmarked 6167 caboose.

It did improve it. I used an xacto blade and scraped off a lot. Whatever it is it is embedded deep.

Before



















and after


----------



## tjcruiser

Some sort of polyurethane overspray? You say it's actually embedded _into_ the plastic, though?


----------



## T-Man

The discoloring does go in deep. I removed layers and it is still visible.


----------



## Kwikster

Sadly, some people will toss that kinda stuff for just that reason. My brother-in-law drives compactor for a landfill be shocked to think of how much "junk" he's covered. Sadly, the company has a "no picking" policy and monitors with cameras.

Carl


----------



## T-Man

A portion of this is just refection. You don't notice it at certain angles.

If I decided to repaint I don't have to worry about lettering!

The dump issue will be corrected over time, resale is getting bigger through donations and now it is too expensive to trash items.


----------



## infernisdiem

if you have any passenger cars in the junk box that need some TLC that you want to send this way, I won't mind :laugh:


----------



## T-Man

I have a few incomplete set of passenger cars so I have growth potential.

The last time was a 610 and 612 prewar I restored.


----------



## T-Man

*Plastic*

Yesterday I dived into the junk box and found an interesting item, A shell with some chips revealing the plastic underneath. SO I decided to take a look. 





































Some interesting color is there.

A Candy Cane Boxcar????


----------



## Big Ed

Leave it just like it is.
Some go through a lot of trouble weathering to get that result.:thumbsup:

Originally a Christmas car?

What....T man has a junker that won't need any epoxy?


----------



## imatt88

Wow, this is an old thread

I posted in here before I got divorced:laugh:

T-Man, I love your junk box, got any old Marx motors in there?

Cheers, Ian


----------



## tjcruiser

We've seen other Lionel plastic shells (locos, maybe?) that are a rainbow of swirled colors when stripped bare.

Makes me wonder if Lionel melted down all of its excess/scrap plastic into a swirly goo, and injected that into the mold dies.

TJ


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

A number of old cars have some interesting plastic designs under the paint, that's not all that uncommon. I've seen swirls like that on cars that the paint was stripped, not sure how it came to be. I guess what was under the paint wasn't all that important...


----------



## T-Man

It would make a good Xmas car.






































I still have two Marx engines that need help . I grab them if I find them.


----------



## Big Ed

That is a Jimmie Hendrix Purple Haze car.:thumbsup:

I saw an article about that, but can't remember what it said as it was so long ago.


----------



## tjcruiser

big ed said:


> That is a Jimmie Hendrix Purple Haze car.:thumbsup:


I was thinking nearly the same thing ... looks like a Lionel car from the late '60's / early '70's ... peace & love, man ... peace & love ..


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

Looks good without the paint, that's basically the pattern I remember. It's just the way the plastic is made, and recycled stuff is a distinct possibility.


----------



## Handyandy

Oh wow man, like dig the groovy psycedelic boxcar. Far out man! Peace.


----------



## T-Man

I recently picked up another porthole caboose. One end was missing a few pieces. I had to super glue the pole back to the bottom and added some toothpicks supported with epoxy.

Of course another way to fix it would be to use elastics and just add super glue and paint.


----------



## tjcruiser

Simple. Nice.

Another (future) option ... maybe consider cutting some hotel credit-card keys (my favorite, as you know!) into little strips, and using those for the rail fix pieces. Styrene, I suspect.

Cheers,

TJ


----------



## sjm9911

This thread puts my skills to shame( if you consider bad spray painting a skill) 
. Good work, and keep posting so I can learn how to do something other then sand and paint!


----------



## T-Man

I forgot about the plastic cards. They would trim to the right thickness too!
I will have to round up some and have them handy.

I am deciding on how I want to light it up now. The socket was there but no spring or center piece.


----------



## T-Man

I decided not to use this.










But this, to light up the car.










It looks like this.











The shell was less than perfect so I added somerhing to give it a zing.
That is why I added the LEDs.


----------



## tjcruiser

Looks like those guys should be tipping their hat to your handiwork!


----------



## Dave Sams

T-man! Please help my edjumakation. The circuit board looks like a bridge rectifier with a cap. Is that correct? Where did you get it? Does it help keep flicker down when the car goes over switches? Are those surface mount LEDs? Are they cut-to-length or 3 LED strips?

I have a set of B&O Madison cars that I would like to re light.

Thanks


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

You can buy the 5 meter strips of LED's and cut them to length. As far as powering them, you can use a bridge rectifier, a decent sized capacitor, and the CL-2 constant current regulator, job done. 

The larger the capacitor, the better the flicker resistance will be.


----------



## Dave Sams

gunrunnerjohn said:


> You can buy the 5 meter strips of LED's and cut them to length. As far as powering them, you can use a bridge rectifier, a decent sized capacitor, and the CL-2 constant current regulator, job done.
> 
> The larger the capacitor, the better the flicker resistance will be.


One day, while experimenting, I had a RS 3a bridge rectifier and a big cap, probably 2400mfd. When I connected a LED with a resistor to the circuit, pop. No more LED. If figure the cap sent too much current to the LED.

When I have a loco on the track, and switch from AC to DC, the loco lurches. I guess the lurch is from the cap.

So, why doesn't the cap in T-man's circuit do the same thing?

Thanks for the infor on the 5 meter strips, I assume they came from E Bay.


----------



## gunrunnerjohn

You missed the part about the CL-2 constant current regulator! LED's *MUST* have proper current limiting, connecting them direction to a voltage source is the recipe for a very short life!


----------



## T-Man

The cap is only 10 uf. I used it since it was better than nothing. For ordinary use on standard AC transformer operation I use a bridge plus two more diodes. The theory being I use 14.4 bulbs for normal lights right! So at 14.4 volts curent will pass through four diodes. Two in the bridge and two in line. SO that gives me a 4 times .7 voltage drop. 14.4 volts minus 2,8 equals an operational 12 volts. My first demo is still running and works well. 

That's my spin on it.


----------



## Dave Sams

Thanks for the reply.

MY BAD I thought those were surface mount LEDs in the caboose! For 12v bulbs makes more sense.


----------



## T-Man

They are LEDs, I replaced a 14.4 volt bulb. It is designed to use a 12volt setup with 14.4 volt track voltage.

The capacitor is too small to make any difference on light blinking.


----------



## T-Man

*2418 work caboose*

A recent purchase I took it apart and found a bad screw post. With the long curing epoxy I placed the screw in and wrapped it around with the epoxy. It worked.

The shell made of a green plastic showed wear and I painted the spots with a light grey acrylic paint.

The smoke stack is new.


----------



## tjcruiser

Nice workcar, T. Are you able to back out the screw easily once the epoxy cures? Would coating the screw with Vaseline or something offer any help?


----------



## sjm9911

Looks good T, I've been following tj's and your threads on repairing screw mounts. Great ideas. Any advice, etc, is appreciated. I have a few tenders to do and my oil loader, it will not work unless it's perfectly aligned. ( I voted velcro on it but it moves a bit). have to practice first before I try that one. 
You have better stuff in your junk box then I have running on my track!


----------



## Big Ed

sjm9911 said:


> Looks good T, I've been following tj's and your threads on repairing screw mounts. Great ideas. Any advice, etc, is appreciated. I have a few tenders to do and my oil loader, it will not work unless it's perfectly aligned. ( I voted velcro on it but it moves a bit). have to practice first before I try that one.
> You have better stuff in your junk box then I have running on my track!



Oil Loader?


----------



## sjm9911

Yes oil barrel loader. The building was tightened to much by the previous owner breaking the screw mounts. The building now interferes withe the gravity feed of the barrels since it is not flush. I guess that's why it was cheap!


----------



## Big Ed

sjm9911 said:


> Yes oil barrel loader. The building was tightened to much by the previous owner breaking the screw mounts. The building now interferes withe the gravity feed of the barrels since it is not flush. I guess that's why it was cheap!


I had to go and search, I never saw one of those.
It is not too realistic the way it tosses the drums around. 
But a neat add on anyway.

I found this video,






He said this on one problem he was having with his.

The only slight problem I had was that the drums would occasionally slide horizontally into the highlow when they are picked up. I solved this by gluing a small piece of fine sandpaper to the pivoting base of the highlow, (the base where the drums sit when they are in the highlow).


----------



## T-Man

Thank you. 

This thread I all about reviving a junk and making it useful. Also saving money on the way.  

The screws are so small TJ that nothing is needed. This is the long cure epoxy and is very tough. The first turn will free it or it will fall apart. That is always a possibility but I had a good coat to overlap. These posts are not use often like a tender. The tenders I will grind away the remnants and use all epoxy in the repair.

I don't have a barrel loader building, it sounds like an interesting problem.


----------



## sjm9911

Thanks T-man, now that you mentioned it grinding the posts down and starting from scratch may be a better option. and ed that is my oil loader. The back side of the building holds the barrels straight on the shoot. If the buildings not secure the barrels get stuck.


----------



## T-Man

I drill and tap, a full replacement since the screw needs to be centered. You could make a wood jig with holes and place the screws when you add epoxy. Corner holes are easier. I just tape off a section and fill it up.


----------



## tjcruiser

Thanks, T ... great tips!

TJ


----------



## sjm9911

Agreed, thanks T-man, I will be experimenting with these techniques soon.


----------



## T-Man

Good luck, that is a great accessory . :thumbsup:


----------



## eljefe

I've never seen one of those oil drum loaders before. That is a neat little structure!

Just better hope whatever he's tossing around in those drums isn't unstable!


----------



## Dano

Cool!


----------



## T-Man

*2419 work caboose*

Epoxy repair on the roof corners.


----------



## tjcruiser

You really do a nice job mixing / matching those acrylic paints to get the perfect color. Hard to tell where the repair begins!

TJ


----------



## Dano

Good job on that. 
What is it about those roof corners? I have one to fix as well. So far I have only cut it back, still have to add in some styrene and trim to fit. Since it won't be original any more I will try and save myself some grief in trying to match colours (not my strong suit!) and probably just spray the whole thing ocean grey.
Come to think of it, how come it is always the right-hand corner of loco roofs that get bent?


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## sjm9911

Nice job! Soon T-man will just build cars from scratch with that stuff, no more repair jobs. He will make complete cars from scratch! It looks great.


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## T-Man

Here is a before picture. It shows both corners. the grey is simple acrylic grey, craft store variety and matches perfectly. I had to add support on the underside.. The edges were too narrow so now the corners will stay on. The areas are a little rough and the dremel wheel worked at matching up the grooves on the left side. Overall a good exercise. :thumbsup:


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## T-Man

*6650*

This was a small fix. The pictures tell all.


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## sjm9911

Showoff! How did you make the new peice? Negative off the the side, fill it it, new peice? Looks great!


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## T-Man

Yes. I painted the plaster mold first. Set it into place and poured. The paint stayed with the epoxy. I was surprised with the result.


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## sjm9911

Like I said showoff! Took me forever to even guess at what you did. looks great, and I learned something I can use!


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## BWA

Forget using plaster, only good for one impression.

Get some molding rubber, you can get as many as 50 repairs from one rubber mold. Plus, the detail will be much better than the plaster.

A good brand is Mold Max 40 from SmoothOn Products.

I'm going to mold the end of the roof off a good caboose, and, repair the ten busted ones I have.


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## sjm9911

I'm looking forward towards the 10 rubber caboose thread, take some pictures! And post them!


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## T-Man

Interesting stuff.


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## BWA

Yes, and, very easy to do. My very first mold was successful.

I used it primarily in the Slot Car business, making wheel inserts for the wheels I manufactured.


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## T-Man

I have a lifetime supply of plaster. Now, I know what to use if I get a serious project. Thanks for that.:appl:

Don't forget to show us when you do your caboose fix. I had more fun cutting them up and joining the pieces.  A simple mold was just fine for corners.


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## T-Man

This is from page 19 . I finally got around to adding doors.


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