# Creating a low-cost short caboose



## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

As with my other projects, this will only be very loosely based on a prototype...

I realized over the Summer that an appropriate caboose for my early-1900's based D&RGW railroad design was sorely missing. As with other cars, I wanted to stay as cheap as possible while still at least representing the era. Yes, I know, I could just drop a load of cash on a highly detailed existing model, but what's the fun in that?  I actually find it very relaxing to get creative in rebuilding and detailing old cars, so I don't mind the absurd time spent.

After some research I decided this was the caboose I wanted on my line. Note the same caboose was used on the D&RGW, but this was the best picture I found of the details I needed.









I've been looking a bit at the last two train shows, and today I scored... a short length, center cupola that even has the windows in the correct locations. All of this for the wonderful price of $2.50!









There are no markings in the plastic and a bit of searching online have failed to identify the maker (note LifeLike makes one of the same line and number, but there are many differences in the details).

So there are some very obvious differences I'll have to deal with. Let's start with the frame... The Tyco-like trucks have to go. Although I try to keep costs low, I do insist on all metal Kadee trucks and couplers. And it looks like the new trucks will easily be the most expensive part of this project -- about $13. I just need to plug the holes from the original trucks and drill/tap a #2 screw hole for the new trucks. I'll add some styrene to build a platform for body-mounted couplers. The molded-in details of the underside are pretty typical, not great, but I can live with it. However a significant problem is the type of stairs... way too modern for a wood-sided caboose. Also the bumpers are a bit different.

To make this modification, I need to fill in the top step and bring the styrene out flush to the side of the car. Then I'll cut off the bottom two steps and fill and gaps as needed, and use a find saw to continue the planks across the new styrene surface. I'll have to find some suitable hanging steps to finish this off. The bumpers should be easy, I need to trim them back about 1/32" so they look more like flat boards, and then add a little more height with some 0.030" square styrene.

The body will of course require the greatest amount of time. I have a metal-body caboose that I need to convert to wood. The smoke stack is on the wrong corner, and I have eight lower windows when I should only have three. Two other issues show better in the following picture... The roof line tapers inward at the ends (it should be square the full length), and the cupola sides taper inwards at the top, and these should be square with the sides of the car.









The windows are exactly 0.25" wide, providing a nicely tight fit for some 0.060" thick styrene. I'll fill in five of the windows including blocking both windows below where the smokestack will be moved to. The remaining three windows, plus the four side windows on the cupola all need to be cut taller. The taper at the ends of the roof line should just require flattening the surfaces and gluing down some styrene of the right thickness, then filing flat. I can see no easy way to square up the sides of the cupola however without significant surgery, so I decided to leave it alone.

Once I have everything filled in as needed, I'll use some sandpaper on a flat surface and eliminate all of the rivet details on the sides, and use a knife to remove the rivets from the ends around the doors. Then comes the most tedious part - scoring lines down the full length to make the body look like wood planks. The sanding will also remove the frame details around all the windows, so I will create new frames with sills using some 0.010" square styrene. There is a wide board running the length of the sides just under the roof, which I believe some 0.020 x 0.080 styrene will do nicely. And then there is some extra wood framing under the ends of the roof, which can be made with some 0.030" square.

I'll finish with with wire grab irons, a vertical brake mast, new railings on the ends, and some signal lanterns. I might also add some queen posts and cables to the underside. Wrap it all up with some paint and decals, and I think this cheap little caboose will look pretty nice.

So that's my plan, we'll see how it goes. I'll be starting on it this week as time allows...


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## 1905dave (Sep 18, 2016)

*Bobber*

Why start with a 1930's Northeastern design steel caboose (the prototype was primarily built by the RDG-CNJ-LV), why not start with a Bachmann or equivalent bobber caboose:










Or a model of a PRR N6 caboose:










Both are wood cabooses and available in several scales on ebay or at train shows.


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## J.C. (Dec 24, 2016)

interesting project I'm turning a wooden bobber into a steel one. have a lot of caboose basket bases , will send you a photo of some wood ones and is they would fit the bill will mail you one no charge.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

@1905dave - funny thing, while I have seen a few of the 4-wheel cabooses at the shows (and I've been considering that design for my HOn3 trains), but I have not seen *any* wood-sided 8-wheel shorties. Also note that the center cupola and similar window structure were some of the things I was looking for. While it's a bit of work to remove the rivet detail and score the lines for wood planks, that's actually a conversion I've been wanting to do because I've been considering giving the same treatment to a hopper to make it look older as well. So this project is a bit experimental along with hopefully being useful...

@J.C. - Thanks for the offer, will watch for your email.

I did get a bit of a start last night. Filled in three of the windows, which seems to go very smoothly. Unfortunately I dropped the car while taking the pictures and realized later that I had broken the smokestack (or would it be called a chimney?). No worries, it was kind of a rough casting anyway. I got the old one off, need to find a sprue of the right size to plug the hole, then I think I'll just make a new piece out of brass or styrene.

Unfortunately I need to spend the day working on my truck, but maybe tonight I'll have time to get more done to the caboose.


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## J.C. (Dec 24, 2016)

think this one will fit the bill some one removed the cast on hand rails. if so pm me your address and will mail it to you.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

It's close, but still doesn't have a centered cupola. I was looking at a similar one but the only way I could figure to make it work would be to cut the entire body to remove the center window and equalize the length on both sides... which is way more work than is needed on the current model to just score in the lines for the wood planks. So thanks, but I'll pass.

Good news with the truck today though... finally found the problem (bad wheel bearing) and got that and some other parts replaced. Test drive went beautifully and I'm finished much earlier than expected.


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## J.C. (Dec 24, 2016)

no prob will look I think I have a wood center copula, picked that one because the copula profile matched the photo's closely. aren't you going to have to shorten and narrow the one your working on any?


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

No this one is already very short... the roof and bumpers measure right about 33 scale feet end to end. I'm not sure of the measurements for the original caboose pictured, but that certainly seems appropriate.

Got the five extra windows filled in. Also made a run to the hobby store. I was looking for a particular type of square, similar to one I have in the garage which is basically a 45-degree triangle with and overhang on one side so you can slide it along the edge of a board and it will hang straight. Amazingly I found one that is about 4". I can use this to slide along the bottom edge of the caboose body while scoring the vertical lines for the boards. Now I just need to figure out a way to get all of my lines evenly spaced.


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## J.C. (Dec 24, 2016)

if this what your after the DGR&W web site lists it at 17 ft. don't list width.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Yeah actually it might be, there seems to be a few different models that are all described as a 'short caboose'... So I may be about 5' too long, but it really looks like the trucks are closer together in than the others I looked at. Ah well, like I said I'm ok with 'close enough'. I'll see what happens with this one and then decide what I want to do from there.


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## J.C. (Dec 24, 2016)

found another photo that site lists at 28 ft. fyi


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

I've also seen some sites that list these cabooses as narrow gauge. So I'm probably way outside the realm of reality here, but I still like the looks of the caboose.

Some quick updates from tonight... First off a quick look at the blocked windows. Not really much to see, just some 0.060" styrene cut to fill the hole, and I cleaned the point out of the inside of each hole so the glue could bond the plastics together.









After that, I sanded one side with 220-grit sandpaper on a flat table until all of the detail was gone, then cleaned it up with some 600-grit. It's interesting how the camera picks up some fine lines left by the sanding, even though I can't feel them with my nail.









I also started working one end of the body to see what I would be dealing with. Fortunately the door is countersunk below the level of the trim, so my work with the blade and file did not even disturb the doorknob. While the raised planks on the corners and around the door are not prototypical, I don't want take a chance of disturbing the details of the door, and with the rivets removed those boards *could* just be part of the framework.









I just need to give the same treatment to the other side and end, and get the ends of the roof squared up, then I can start scribing the boards.

Hmm I forgot to drill holes to mark the location of the curved bars on the side. Better get that done before I make the same mistake on the other side.


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## J.C. (Dec 24, 2016)

I forgot to ask you if you have a copy or know of the book by Robert A. LeMassena called the Colorado mountain railroads. originally published in three volume's but reprinted in one book in 1984. a wealth of info on narrow gauge roads of Colorado. project looking good , as to scribing the lines a #11 blade used backwards works as it removes the plastic instead of pushing it out , removing a small amount of the point will regulate the width of scribing.as to spacing you could temporally glue a section of plastic with the proper spacing on the bottom of car side then use it for guide. I have done scribing but I'm fortunate to have a small hobby mill I just square it on table and move it for proper spacing.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

I have not heard of that book, will look it up... thanks!

I was thinking of using my dental pick for scribing, but yeah I see what you mean about removing the plastic. Hmmm will have to experiment...


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## 1905dave (Sep 18, 2016)

The Reading style caboose is definitely NOT narrow gauge, they are way too big.

I am confused because I thought you wanted a "shorty" caboose but you chose a caboose that isn't necessarily any shorter than the average caboose. I lined up an Athearn "Santa Fe" caboose (the one made by virtually every company), a Reading caboose (like the one you have) and the PRR N6 caboose and they are all within a foot or two of the same length.

You could fairly easily take the shell from the bobber caboose and build a true short caboose with two normal trucks under it. 










Here is a short of the bobber shell:


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## 1905dave (Sep 18, 2016)

You mentioned hopper cars. I like to kitbash the Life-like/Varney USRA hoppers. Here are some of the ones I've done.

This is a picture of the stock car (the SV hopper) and my first pass at kitbashing a wooden hopper. I sanded the sides flush, added scribed siding for sides and modified Grandt Line gon stakes on the sides.










The next car is a model of a P&R HTb wooden hopper. It was made by sanding off the hopper sides, keeping the metal side stakes, then filling in the sides under the slope sheets with styrene, then scribing boards on the sides and adding details.
The B&O car coupled to it is a hopper with the middle 3 ft cut out to shorten it and make one center bay. It has styrene strips added for sides and various details.










The last car is a P&R class HKa hopper gon, only th hoppers were used, the rest of it is made from styrene and Grandt Gon stakes.










https://s7.postimg.org/huj0bh5i3/IMG_2305.jpg


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

The 'shorty' term actually comes from the pages I was reading about cabooses of the style in the first picture, but yeah I've certainly seen some shorter ones as well. I guess the term is fairly relative. The center-cupola caboose I'm working with is actually only 1/2" shorter than the other's I have here, probably the Santa Fe model you mentioned.

LOVE the work you've done on your hoppers, very nice looking! Mine is a bit different approach -- I'm building a coal line based off the 60's and 70's Mantua/Tyco operating hoppers. Decent enough car, except the clamshell doors on the bottom look nothing like prototype. I ran across a web page where someone had modified a couple with drop-sides to hide the clamshells, and I tried to make the concept a bit more realistic looking. This is what I ended up with...









The final version is my own combination of this wooden hopper:









and this early steel hopper:









However because some of the Tyco cars I've collected are beat up, I would like to sand the sides down to bare plastic and give them the wood-plank look like I'm doing with this caboose. Unfortunately I can't cut down the length of these hoppers to match the wood prototype because these have a cast metal frame, but I still want to see how they come out...

One thing I'm really proud of, you might notice that the spacing of the center three panels on the side of my hopper have been widened. I cut off the center three ribs and added two new ribs made from styrene, with the rivets punched out using my dental pick. I tried mounting the dump-door wheels using the original rib spacing but it just didn't look right. The new alignment allows to to use three of the crank wheels if I want, but I liked how it came out with just two of them (and they are actually centered to the bottom of the hopper bays).


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Back on the caboose again, working on the steps now. As mentioned, the first step was to fill in (drum roll please)... the first step.  I used a couple layers of styrene to make up the thickness, and after a few days I filled in the seams with some auto putty I had. Then I carefully used my saw blade to bring the lines of the deck boards out to the edges (it will look more even once painted).









After that I cut off the bottoms of the steps and sanded/filed the underside smooth. There was still a gap where the second step had been, so that was also filled with styrene then trimmed and filed smooth. Finally I added some 0.060" square styrene to raise the top of the bumper and define where the new front edge would be, and used the saw to cut off where the old bumper extended out too far. A bit of filing to smooth it all up, then I added a slight bevel to both corners.









The outside edges of the steps are now filed even to side of the car. I added a bit of styrene in the center to provide a good platform for the kadee couplers, and gave the underside a final dressing with the file to ensure everything was even.









I just need to finish off the steps and bumper on the other end of the car now. I have some sprue just about ready to go in the hole from the old Tyco trucks once I make a center hole on the lathe. I'm still waiting for the new trucks to arrive, and once I have them I can check the height for the couplers before mounting them. At that point the frame will be ready for the handrails, ladders, and brakes, and then I can paint it.

The body of the caboose is on hold at the moment. I have the corners of the roof squared up and all four sides have all details removed now, but I'm still trying to think of a good way to get all of the vertical lines drawn out evenly. A trick I've done before is to use the nice sharp points on digital calipers to score the initial lines. I can set the position of each line exactly, and then go back and dig them deeper with the dental pick. I'm also stuck on how to cut the windows larger as I don't really have any saw blades small enough to fit the window holes but still rigid enough to cut the plastic. I need to remove about 1/8" depth of plastic on seven windows, so I think it's too much to just file out by hand. I'll figure out something though...


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## Nikola (Jun 11, 2012)

Instead of scribing the lines on the body, could you laser print onto suitable paper and glue onto the model? You could even photoshop in weathering.


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## J.C. (Dec 24, 2016)

these will make short work of enlarging windows.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Probably...? But I'm also practicing my painting and weathering techniques as I go, so having the actual details on the car are needed in my case. I've seen some fences and whole buildings done with a color laser printer though, and the results can be literally photo-realistic.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

@J.C. -- probably! And for the price I went ahead and ordered a set because you never know when you'll need to hog out some material... but yeesh I'm not sure how well I could control them for working within such a confined space. Guess we'll see if I haven't found a better solution before those arrive. Thanks!


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## J.C. (Dec 24, 2016)

there actually easy to control the flat one is just under 1/4 inch wide the square is under 1/8 inch . the best thing about them other than price is being diamond they don't clog up in plastic like regular needle files.
PS floor looks good.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Turns out I should have paid more attention to the alignment of the body and frame. When I made the edge of the steps align with the frame, I forgot that the body actually sticks out further, so when I put the pieces together the steps were noticeably sunk back behind the sides of the car. So I added some more styrene and smoothed everything back down again.









Starting to take on the new shape now!


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## J.C. (Dec 24, 2016)

been thinking on scribing problem and thought of a idea that I'd throw out, what about a junk single sheath of better yet just make new sides and ends out of evergreen wouldn't be much more work than scribing and if you scribe three sides and bungle the forth you would be up the proverb able creek without and means of propulsion.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

I'm not sure what a single sheath is? Google just seems to turn up canvas carriers for leatherman tools.

I did a test on one side using the calipers last night. It came up slightly wide in the center but using 0.060" wide spaces appears to line up nicely with the outer edge of the windows. I'm re-trying now keeping the lines spaced at 0.060 until I get inside the windows, then changing my spacing to 0.061. That appears to take up just enough extra space that when the lines meet in the center of the body the boards are still visually equal in size.

I found that using the dental pick makes a rather course line. I'd like to use the tiny saw blades I got for cutting track in the hand-laid turnouts, but it's actually smaller than the small square I got for keeping the lines straight. So I think I'll have to play a bit tonight with different tools.


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## J.C. (Dec 24, 2016)

woops its a wood box car.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Well that was nice timing... the caboose trucks showed up in the mail today. Got them fitted to the frame and the kadee coupler comes out at exactly the right height. I just need to pick up some more 2-56 screws and get a hole drilled & tapped to mount them.


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## J.C. (Dec 24, 2016)

here's the book I was telling you about , kind of pricey but the least expensive of all listings.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Colorados-...330311&hash=item212dbf9405:g:W2MAAOSwXvNZsuXT


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Well isn't this just the cutest little thing?


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## J.C. (Dec 24, 2016)

the book in previous post has been reduced to 37$ and free shipping not a bad price for it now.


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