# Loco stops working - what am I doing wrong?



## N-Noob (May 10, 2015)

I set up my first DCC loco last night and everything was working for multiple laps around the track. Then, the loco just stopped and would not respond to throttle inputs. I deleted the loco from the command station, and re-registered. It worked again for a longer period of time, then stopped again. Went to bed.

Although I have read the manuals and searched the internet, I may be overlooking the obvious since I'm new at this. So feel free to tell me the obvious.

The loco is using a Digitrax decoder. Control station is ECoS 50200 with latest firmware. The loco was registered using DCC 28.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Just be glad it's a Digitrax decoder. They have an excellent warranty.

They also have a good customer support program. If resetting the
decoder to factory default does not correct your problem, go to
the Digitrax web site and support. They want to you describe 
your problem and which decoder you have. Ask for suggestions.
If nothing resolves the problem they will tell you how to return
the decoder for a free replacement, even if the problem was caused
by your actions. You will need a copy of the original invoice.

Don


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Is it safe to assume that you tried just powering off the system and turning it back on? My system will short when the train runs through a turnout set against it, and the train will keep running, but not accept any throttle commands. I can fix it by shutting off the throttle and resetting it. It's worth eliminating that possibility. 

If you have a spare decoder, you can try swapping it out. Otherwise, assuming the stuff is new, contact Digitrax.


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## N-Noob (May 10, 2015)

I think I figured it out. If I'm right, I was losing contact between the loco's motor tabs and the decoder intermittently. I tried to put a dimple in the tab, but that didn't work. Ended up using the soldering gun which I've read is not optimal. Seems to have fixed the problem tho.

Thanks for the quick responses and advice... stowed for future use.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Do you have a soldering gun or an iron?

A low wattage iron, 25 watts or so, is better for model
railroad soldering. They come with several fine points
ideal for small work, and less than 20.00 at Harbor Freight.

Don


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## N-Noob (May 10, 2015)

Yeah... sloppy language. I have an adjustable wattage soldering iron (Weller brand). I solder quite a bit for different hobbies/chores/crafts. I got impatient with this and didn't switch to the needle-point, just used the corner of the flat tip. The joint is good. I say "not optimal" as I read somewhere that DCC signals can have trouble with soldered joints due to metallurgical stuff that's beyond my understanding. My second decoder install used a different method of contacting motor leads, so I avoided solder on that one.

Now to start figuring out what I can do with these CV thingies. First task is slowing down the loco at its low range --- thing is like a top fuel dragster off the blocks, which makes coupling a little exciting for the conductor and passengers. :laugh:


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

I have found this to be a common problem in N, strangely particularly with Digitrax, where the decoder board tabs don't make good contact with conductive chassis. The solder just needs building up a bit and then filing to get the correct fit.


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