# Powering Frog Question



## spikedrivingblues (Dec 11, 2018)

I use Peco electrofrog turnouts as they come but for several reasons am considering modifying them (I'm sure many of you know what I mean) and changing frog polarity with toggle switches. Toggles rather than frog juicers because they are so much more affordable and it will give me an excuse to build local control panels with track diagrams and toggles indicating each turnouts frog polarity (I don't believe polarity is the right word when dealing with AC but you know what I mean )

Problem is I'm terrible with electricity. I'm thinking I need a SPST toggle - the wire that comes attached to the frog going to the center of the switch and one wire from my inside rail bus and one wire from my outside rail bus to each end of the toggle switch. Then each of the two positions of the switch will make the frog polarity that of either the outside or inside rail's polarity.

Do I have the right idea or am I way off?

I'd appreciate any comments and suggestions. If you think it's necessary, a schematic would be great too. Thanks!


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

You want a single pole DOUBLE throw (SPDT) switch to control your frogs.

The frog is connected to the center tab, the
two outer tabs go to your track power. Thus in
one position the frog gets right rail, in the other
position it gets left rail. 

This is a simple and cheap solution but it seems
likely that your locos will be shorting a lot when they
reach the frog. 

Don


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## spikedrivingblues (Dec 11, 2018)

DonR said:


> You want a single pole DOUBLE throw (SPDT) switch to control your frogs.
> 
> The frog is connected to the center tab, the
> two outer tabs go to your track power. Thus in
> ...


Thanks Don. Frankly, I'm surprised I got that close! Your post reminded me a bit about what little I once knew about toggle switches.

Like I said, I'm only considering the idea right now but I'm curious why you think I'll have a lot of shorts...just human error or are you thinking of something else?

Happy New Year!

Thanks again.


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## Dennis461 (Jan 5, 2018)

Remember you will need to cut two jumpers under the electrofrog. A DPDT switch alone will cause a short. Meaning, with turnout set to main, and DPDT set to diverge, the frog will have both + and - connected until your machine moves the points. This is why the jumpers from points to frog must be cut.


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## gregc (Apr 25, 2015)

i'm not sure if your suggesting using a second switch, besides the momentary(?) switch used to control the turnout.

there's a thread on another forum discussing the used of a Peco Accessory Switch
 which apparently clips onto and is mechanically connected to the turnout to be used for such things are powering the frog


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Most of us are not as alert as we should be when
running trains. That means if you have a manual
switch to power your frogs you are likely to forget
to throw it at times. When the loco gets to the
frog you'll have a short circuit.

As has been suggested, you should use an automatic
device to change the 'phase' (polarity). Then you
can enjoy your trains without having to 'remember'
the frogs.

Don


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## spikedrivingblues (Dec 11, 2018)

Dennis461 said:


> Remember you will need to cut two jumpers under the electrofrog. A DPDT switch alone will cause a short. Meaning, with turnout set to main, and DPDT set to diverge, the frog will have both + and - connected until your machine moves the points. This is why the jumpers from points to frog must be cut.


Thanks, Dennis. I did know about this but I appreciate the heads up!


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## spikedrivingblues (Dec 11, 2018)

DonR said:


> Most of us are not as alert as we should be when
> running trains. That means if you have a manual
> switch to power your frogs you are likely to forget
> to throw it at times. When the loco gets to the
> ...


Ok. Probably good advice considering I sometimes forget to set turnouts back to the main as it is now :laugh:

I'm not sure if I'll modify the turnouts at all, I've just read about the conductivity between stock rail and point rail becoming less reliable over time.

It's also dawned on me that if down the road I want local control panels I can use push buttons connected to the stationary decoders I'm using now.

Thanks, guys!


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