# Looking for someone to service my engines



## novice (Feb 2, 2011)

Since I have no HS anywhere within driving distance, I'm looking for somewhere to send my loco's for service and repair.

They need to be cleaned and oiled and I think my Blue one really needs to be checked out, it makes an awful buzzing noise.

Can anyone recommend a trust worthy repair facility that I can send my locos to?

Thanks in advance.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

One thought is to locate the nearest lagest city and find the oldest Lionel dealership. Lionel.com has this.

Or go to a local train show. Used dealers are everywhere and old timers service their own. You just need to find them. Look for a club or museum.

If you don't like the buzz, go with modern trains they are electronic.


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## novice (Feb 2, 2011)

Unfortunately, nothing near me within 120 miles 

The next train show seems to be in April, about 60 miles away.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Novice,
Where do you live in Florida. I live near Orlando.
Bruce Baker


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## novice (Feb 2, 2011)

Panama City - Panhandle - between pensacola and tallahassee LOL nothing here.

When I searched for dealers on Lionel, it says the pool store is a dealer - I'm not taking my trains to a pool store LOL


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

You are too far away for me to help you unless you want to drive to Orlando.

I am not too keen on shipping trains due to the possibility of breakage.

What engines do you have that need service?

BB


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## novice (Feb 2, 2011)

servoguy said:


> You are too far away for me to help you unless you want to drive to Orlando....


LOL, yeah I'm too far away from everything including civilization 

I currently have 2 engines with another on the way.


*8757* - Makes an awful buzzing noise when running. I have to pump up the transformer to 12 to get the thing rolling but it does run.
I doubt it's ever been serviced or cleaned although I have cleaned the wheels.
1655 - Just purchased and runs ok - probably just needs oiling and service. Cleaned the wheels and runs ok,

I have another engine on the way, not sure of the condition yet.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

The buzzing sound is likely coming from the E unit. It will not damage anything but it is a little annoying. some of my engines buzz, some don't. It is the luck of the draw.

I suggest you learn to service your locos. Cheaper and quicker than sending them to someone.

BB


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## novice (Feb 2, 2011)

servoguy said:


> The buzzing sound is likely coming from the E unit. It will not damage anything but it is a little annoying. some of my engines buzz, some don't. It is the luck of the draw.
> 
> I suggest you learn to service your locos. Cheaper and quicker than sending them to someone.
> 
> BB


Thanks Servoguy - I've been looking for a tutorial on servicing, but as yet haven't found one.

That buzzing is really loud lol, just sounds like something is wrong. Just my "luck of the draw"


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

There are a bunch of manuals listed on the forum.

Some of the guys have a manual from Greenberg on repair.

I do it without any manuals or wiring diagrams. 47 years of engineering and 60 years of Lionel trains.

BB


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## novice (Feb 2, 2011)

servoguy said:


> There are a bunch of manuals listed on the forum.
> 
> Some of the guys have a manual from Greenberg on repair.
> 
> ...


WOW - 60 years - incredible.

I can barely get my track laid, let alone repair or lubricate


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Actually, it's really simple to maintain your engines as far as lubrication goes. Even Lionel expects the end user to lubricate the products.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

John,
some of the engines require disassembly to be properly lubed. But I agree, usually it is relatively simple. 

BB


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, "disassembly" usually is a couple of screws and the guts drop out.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Yup,
Probably the most difficult ones are the F3 diesels. It's more than a couple of screws, but still not too difficult.
BB


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I've had all my engines apart at least once, and some several times. My Amtrak DASH8-32 seems the hardest to stuff all the bits back into the chassis. The Pratt's Hollow Phantom engine is tricky because you have to stick the screwdriver through the truck and hold the screw in a pair of needle nose pliers to get it back in, they didn't think about maintenance when they built that one! More than once I dropped the screw and it promptly found it's way through a hole in the base plate and on inside.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Some of the steamers require that you remove the valve gear and main rod. Then of course there is the problem of getting the smoker all back together. 

The turbine steamers and the 726/736 probably are the easiest to disassemble: 3 screws. All the connecting rods stay in place. 

BB


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You would be correct, the steamers are probably a bit more complicated to disassemble.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Novice has a 1655 Scout. I'm not sure if that shell is exactly like other Scouts, but many of those have a transverse pin through the shell (and the back of the motor) that you need to tap out (using a nail set or similar) to remove the motor. It's easy to do, as long as one knows which direction (side) the pin should be removed from ... the pin itself has a knurled head on one end, and a smoother other end.

Having said that, I always forget which way it's supposed to go. I think tap with a nailset from the right, and withdraw/remove from the left ... but I'm not 100% sure.

TJ


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## novice (Feb 2, 2011)

LOL - see, this is exactly why I need someone to do this for me - no way I'm going to be able to do this and not screw it up lol


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Novice Just look for the serrated end on the pin and push from the other side.

From the end, the lines will look like a gear.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

You tap on the opposite end from the knurl. The knurl should come out first.

BB


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

You can do it.
tap on one side if it doesn't move tap on the other side.
notice I say tap. not whack!

In another year you can open a Lionel repair shop.
Look at the TJ's Olsen site too. pictures (diagrams) will help you a lot.

DON'T YOU WANT TO SEE WHAT IS UNDERNEATH THE SHELL.

buy a repair manual too, to tell you the basics, around $25 bucks ,there is a picture somewhere on the site.


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## novice (Feb 2, 2011)

Thanks guys - I found someone to service my locos. I'll just send them in the new P.O boxes and be done with this confusion lol


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

novice said:


> Thanks guys - I found someone to service my locos. I'll just send them in the new P.O boxes and be done with this confusion lol



CHICKEN!


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## novice (Feb 2, 2011)

big ed said:


> CHICKEN!


Cluck... Cluck...

I took apart my GP9, that wasn't too bad - but I looked inside and just stared and said "Now what" LOL.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

If you're talking an O-scale GP9, they're a piece of cake to work on. About the only thing you lube inside is the armature shaft. Most of the lube is on the trucks from the bottom.


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## novice (Feb 2, 2011)

Thanks GRJ, there's also the 1655 - there's a screw on the bottom holding the rear trucks inplace I think is stripped also.

Armature shaft -ok gotta look that one up.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

This is what I'm talking about. The setscrew at the top is removed, two drops of oil in, then you put the setscrew back in. Tighten until it's tight, then back off 1/2 turn. Job done.


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## novice (Feb 2, 2011)

Sweet - I can do that 

Thanks - YOU THE MAN


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

John,
Shouldn't the worm gear and the lower motor bearing be lubed also?
BB


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The worm gear requires far less regular maintenance. AAMOF, all the diesel engines I've taken apart and checked, there was plenty of grease still in evidence. A couple of them looked like the grease was somewhat old and I redid them, but I suspect I could have gotten away without it. I'll agree that with a really old engine you probably want to clean and regrease the lower gears. Unless his GP-9 is way different than mine, the lower bearing is below the worm gear in the grease pit. Every time I've had an engine that squeals at speed, it's been the top bearing that's dry, not the lower end. This being the far more common issue, and the one that is required more often, I figured it was the place to start.

I'd venture to say that a very small percentage of owners actually pull the armature to do the complete lub, and it's not recommended in any Lionel owner's literature. 

I will say that many of the really old operating accessories I've overhauled I've needed to totally degrease everything and relub, including any gearstick, etc.

*servoguy*, this is not to say that I think this is a bad idea, in point of fact, it's a really good idea. I'm just trying to point out the easier stuff that's also required far more often. For someone that's reluctant to "crack the case", it's good to start with the easy stuff, and work your way up. We'll get him doing complete overhauls yet, just have to work up to it.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

10-4 GRJ. Your experience with grease confirms my advice not to use grease. When the grease gets hard, it is not easy to clean it off.

I had to replace the motor in a steam turbine loco because one of the bearings was totally worn out. I am kind of a fanatic about making sure the machinery is lubed. I bought a cheap Alco a few years ago that had the nylon gear that mates with the worm totally stripped. I replaced the motor for $2 with one I bought at a swap meet. I used the armature and brush plate from the old motor. I have some severe damage done to locos due to lack of lube. 

BB

BB


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

No doubt that the #1 killer of engines is failure to lub them, you'll get no argument from me!


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Yeah, it it turns, slides, rotates, moves, I lube it. 

BB


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

servoguy said:


> Yeah, it it turns, slides, rotates, moves, I lube it.
> 
> BB


Oh man could I run into the ditch with that statement


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

This applies to toy trains, automobiles, appliances, etc.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

sstlaure said:


> Oh man could I run into the ditch with that statement


Well, lube is useful there too.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

novice said:


> Sweet - I can do that
> 
> Thanks - YOU THE MAN




Cluck, cluck, cluck you forgot to add.:laugh:

By the time you get done servicing the scout engine, shipping charge 2 ways, and the repairman charge, that $25 dollar scout is going to cost you a $100 bucks.

You ought to learn, it is not that hard to do. And there are plenty of people here to guide you through and help. Search T mans threads he has pictures and more. 

Eventually it will need more service it depends on how much you run them.

The first one is the hardest one....


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## novice (Feb 2, 2011)

*GP 9 The top is off - now what LOL*

Thanks Big Ed - Here we go...

I ordered a maintenance kit from amazon today, so hopefully I can get these trains cleaned up with everyones help.

Here are the pics of the first train - GP 9 (8757) Top off and the bottom trucks.

The insides look pretty clean yes? At least it does to me. What would I lube/oil in here? Is there something in here I can do to soften the buzz?


































Here are the trucks/bottom - looks clean to me here as well - what the heck do I know.

Where do I lube/oil here, the axels? Too much is no good correct? Just a dab on a tooth pick?










































Thanks in advance for all your help.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Nov,

It doesn't look very dirty at all! That said ...

For cleaning, I'm a big fan of GooGone, Q-tips, pipe cleaners, and a soft/mild ScotchBrite pad. For lube, Servoguy here has swayed me over to 5W-20 or 5W-30 motor oil (regular, or even better with synthetic) ... just a few tiny drops needed.

First, components ...

Picture 1, 2 show the brush plate holder, brushes (pair of small contact cylinders) with their "paper clip style" springs, and the actual motor armature below that. Look carefully how things fit with each other here, then remove the 2 screws that hold the cover plate. Lift the cover plate off SLOWLY, as doing so will free and release the brush cylinders and the springs. Clean those with a little GooGone. Next, you'll see the exposed copper face of the armature (or "commutator"). Clean that with GooGone via a Q-tip. If the copper face doesn't shine nicely, you can use a mild ScotchBrite very gently to brighten it up. Reassemble with just a tiny drop or two of the 5W20 on the armature face. Add another drop to the top bearing of the armature shaft, which I think is seen on the top of the white brush plate holder. Done there.

Pics 3,4 ... that's your auto-reverse E-unit. The hummy thing. Most hum to some extent. A possible fix (discussed in another recent thread) entails disassembly and adding a little cushion. But let's not go there now. If you can turn your eyeball the right way, look into the bottom of the e-unit and you should see two sets of little metal contact fingers that touch a little plastic and copper drum. The drum has a cogged tooth middle. The copper parts of the drum should be shiny and clean. GooGone and pipe cleaners can help here ... but tread carefully / gently for a first-timer ... you don't want to bend the contact fingers out of alignment. Best left untouched, perhaps, for now. Also, I would NOT add any oil to the drum/fingers. However, if you look up inside the e-unit, you'll see a plunger rod with a little "hand pawl" at its bottom ... the pawl grabs the drum teeth. The plunger rod rises up inside the solenoid coil around it. If you can use a toothpick to rub a drop of oil on the plunger rod (when it's lowered, with power off), that might help reduce buzz just a bit.

Remaining pics ... trucks, wheels, pickup rollers. GooGone / Q-tip / ScotchBrite all of the wheel flanges and pickup rollers. You might do a light wipe thereafter with some isoproply alcohol to remove any residual GooGone. Use your toothpick idea to add one tiny drop of oil at any juncture where mating parts turn ... the axle bearings, where the axles dead-end into the inner sides of the trucks, etc.

Hope that helps a bit,

TJ


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## novice (Feb 2, 2011)

Thanks TJ - once I get the kit I ordered, I'll tackle this with your instructions - greatly appreciated


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Ohh ... gears, too ... a little lube on the gear teeth and gear shafts.

TJ


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

I thought this might be a good place to mention that TJ says GOO-GONE
and *NOT* GOOF OFF they look similar and are in the same place at the Hardware, Home improvement stores. They are of a completely different make up, Goof off will melt plastic parts instantly!
I told a guy years ago to clean his engines with goo-gone and he used the other and melted the side frames and warped the body.
Motor oils work great to lube engines, Air compressor oil is even better, reason is that the detergent (cleaners) levels are very high and the oil is very pure and non acidic and leaves a light film.
Just my 2 cents worth.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Let me add a few places to lube. The motor truck has two vertical posts at each end with springs and clips on them. They slide on main plate when the truck swivels. Add a drop or two of oil on both sides of the curved slot. The truck has two nylon bumpers on the top that rub on the bottom of the main plate. A little oil on them will make the truck swivel easier. There are a pair of idler gears on the power truck that ride on two stub shafts. These need oil. The axles for the unpowered truck are going to need at least 2 drops of oil on each bearing. The couplers will swivel easier if you lube them. Lube the bolster for the unpowered truck. The bolster is the bearing that the truck swivels on. 

When you have the brush plate off, pull the armature out and lube the bearing on the other end and also the worm gear. The worm is going to need several drops of oil. You could put a few drops on the spur gear that engages the worm. Oil the bearings for the shaft that has the spur gear.

When you put the brush plate back on, hold the brush plate and the loco so the mating faces of the motor and brush plate are vertical. This keeps the brushes from falling out and seriously reduces the number of bad words. Then slide the brush plate onto the posts of the field. 

While you have the brush plate off, clean the armature slots. I recommend that you oil the commutator with a drop of motor oil. This is quite unconventional, but works well. I have oiled the commutators on most of my locos without a problem. I even oiled the commutator on a 152 loco that I have. It is about 90 years old. It really reduces the motor friction. I have a 2333 that I oiled the commutator on almost 2 years ago, and it has been trouble free. I have a lot of running hours on this loco. Your option.
BB


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## novice (Feb 2, 2011)

Sean,

Thanks for the goof off tip as that is what I always use - whew. I'll get some goo gone now 

Servo guy

Thanks - I'll look for those parts and lube them also

Sheesh, just got more complex


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, you see the screw we talked about earlier on top of the motor, that's the first thing inside I'd oil.

As far as the trucks, I lightly grease the gears, and put a stop of oil on each of the axle bearing points. A tiny bit of oil on the bearing surfaces of the pickups, and do the couplers as well. It doesn't take much oil, I have a little bottle that's about 2" high and less than an inch in diameter, I've oiled dozens of engines and cars with it, and it's still got plenty of oil in it. 

As far as the E-Unit buzzing, the best fix I can suggest is running it on DC, it's not a difficult mod, and it'll be totally quiet. :thumbsup: If you're interested in doing that, we can talk you through it, it's really quite simple.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I see that I missed a bunch of replies, looks like I duplicated a lot of stuff.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Novice,
Put a drop of oil on each end of the pickup rollers so it gets down inside the roller and lubes the pin that the roller turns on. This will reduce the roller wear.
BB


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Novice, 
My preference for the gears is motor oil, not grease. I have a 2025 steamer that was oiled in 1965. When I got it out of the closet a few months ago, the oil was still on the gears. Motor oil doesn't dry out. It is designed to withstand heat (200+ deg F) and not evaporate or get gummy. I didn't do anything to the 2025 to get it running again except lube it again with oil. 

I have had to clean dried grease out of some locos, in particular a 736 and 2333. The 2333 had the gearboxes packed with grease which had become like cement. I took 2-3 hours to clean the grease out of the gearboxes. I used WD-40 to soften the old grease and brake clean to remove it. 

Remember, whatever you do has to last a long time. You don't want to be cleaning out dried grease in 5 years.

BB


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

One other experience I had with dried grease is interesting. My daughter got a Vitamix blender from her mother that is about 30 years old. The switch stopped working when the blender was about 6 years old. I disassembled the switch and found the parts glued together with the dried grease that the switch manufacturer used when the switch was manufactured. I cleaned out the grease and lubed the switch with motor oil. I don't ever expect the switch to need attention again.

BB


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I feel duty bound to mention that Lubriplate that I use does not "dry out".  It's also a much lighter grease than what Lionel uses.

I haven't tried motor oil, but it's certainly cheaper than what I use.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

GRJ, How long have you used lubriplate? In the past, it would dry out in a few years. They may have changed the formula. I don't know of any test data on it or any other greases or oils that give the vapor pressure. That is why I am sticking with something I know and have personally tested.
BB


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I've been using it for at least 30 years. As a point of reference, pretty much any oil will eventually dry out, including motor oil. Just look at it on your garage floor after a year or so.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Oil soaks into concrete unless the concrete is painted or coated with something.

It is good to hear that you haven't had trouble with it for 30 years.

In 1958 I worked in an appliance store fixing appliances. I took apart many hand mixers and cleaned the clay out of the gearboxes. The grease had dried out and the lack of lubrication destroyed the gears.

BB


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I've seen plenty of dried grease in my days, not sure what the origin of it is. I know that the lithium based grease lasts longer, but I haven't gone for 30 years yet.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

motor looks in great shape.

while your in there take a close look at the wires especially where they make contact with the metal frame. make sure they have not rubbed through in spots.

you took the plunge :thumbsup:

you went from this,

clunk, cluck, cluck









to this cock-a-cocka doooooo
no more chicken.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

FWIW, any of the used engines or operating accessories I pick up get the full disassembly clean and lube, SOP. I figure after I pull the motor apart and clean everything up, I probably won't have to do it for it's remaining time with me, however long that might be.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> FWIW, any of the used engines or operating accessories I pick up get the full disassembly clean and lube, SOP. I figure after I pull the motor apart and clean everything up, I probably won't have to do it for it's remaining time with me, however long that might be.


You won't have to at all , till you get that layout running.

Get the paint on yet?

I am glad I got an excuse.....I got to work.:thumbsdown:
My stuff expands in slow motion.

I figure if I keep bugging you, your layout will materialize faster.
Just trying to be of help.

Now......get back to painting!:laugh:

I got to get some ZZzzzz's 3 am start again,:thumbsdown: be home at 5 or 6 tomorrow night.

Got a load and go, out to Millhall, Pa. Maybe catch that coal train running by.
I like running out on 80, once you get up Pocono's there is not much traffic. I get a break from the dog eat dog maniacs of NYC for a change.

One good thing is, I got my new truck in 2011,a farm tractor.:laugh:
But it has a big engine for the hills and more comfort and a nice new windshield for taking pictures.

Looking forward to seeing pictures of your layout tomorrow night.:thumbsup:


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Good luck with seeing it tomorrow. We're clicking along slowly, but it's painful. Today, I actually had to work.


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## novice (Feb 2, 2011)

big ed said:


> motor looks in great shape.
> 
> while your in there take a close look at the wires especially where they make contact with the metal frame. make sure they have not rubbed through in spots.
> 
> ...


LMAO - Big Ed - you crack me up...

Still waiting for my cleaner kit - should be tomorrow *nervous shake*


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Once you get into it, you're going to feel silly wanting someone else to do this and extract big bucks from your wallet, it's really not that difficult. The other bonus is you learn your way around the engines and are better able to diagnose issues before they happen.


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## novice (Feb 2, 2011)

Thanks GRJ - The person I found was from this forum (not mentioning any names as don't think it appropriate), and offered what I think was a very reasonable price and I was very glad that someone cared enough to offer.

The folks on this forum are tremendous - you know I mean that sincerely!

But as pointed out, the cost of shipping started me thinking it may not be the best way for me - it would really have increased the price of the engines beyond what they're worth.

Still, I'm going to give it shot once my kit arrives.

Everyone's help has been very motivating.

Now where the heck is my cleaning kit, should have been here yesterday LOL


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## klinger (Jan 2, 2011)

Novice,
You will have no problems. Once I got the courage to take my engine apart, it was really quite easy. These guys had plenty of quick answers and solutions to my basic questions. Plus, like they said, I enjoyed learnig about the internal mechanisms. Go for it!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Learning to service your own equipment is the gift that keeps on giving.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

What kind of "kit" are you waiting for?

all you need is a shoe box....put in the shoe box some,

oil 5/20 will do. (as per servoguy)
q tips come in handy.
pipe cleaners.
toothpicks.
I like some Emory cloth.
I have an assortment of cleaning fluids I haul them.
You can get the Goo gone.
A soft rag.
Some tissues....in case you sneeze from the cleaning fluids.
Comes in handy for wiping too.
I save all old toothbrushes...steam clean them, they come in handy too for gentle cleaning things.

No grease lube (as per servoguy) I am trying just oil too from now on.
NO STEELWOOL

That is about all you need for cleaning.
Did I forget anything, anyone? Maybe.

Tools a different story, I think there is a thread here somewhere.

What is in this "kit" that you are waiting for?


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## novice (Feb 2, 2011)

Big Ed - the kit is the lionel cleaning and maintenance kit.

Comes with lube, cleaner and oil - I read a thread where I was supposed to use model train lube and oil only.

I ordered it before servoguy's post.

Should be here tomorrow and I'll start cleaning tomorrow night.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

One more thing to add: ScotchBrite pads. Good for cleaning track and commutators. 

I have heard but have never verified that using emory cloth on commutators is not a good idea as it may leave behind some of the abrasive. I do know from experience that car alternators after 150,000 miles may have grit embedded in theslip rings which will wear the brushes very quickly. I used to disassemble the alternators, support one of the bearings with a vise, and hole the other end in my left hand. Then I would use the side of a flat file to clean up the slip rings, leaving the groove intact to keep the brushes centered. This worked well. I never thought of using a ScotchBrite pad. 

BB


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I've been using a Dremel wire brush (a stainless steel one) to clean the commutator (armature face) with good success ... along with trusty GooGone. A few light "swipes" of the brush, and the copper face looks great.

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The problem with those SS Dremel brushes are they spit little needles of SS as you work! I had to move all my Dremel brushing activities to my basement workshop after I spread those all over my workshop in my office! 

I find that Scotchbrite (the coarse stuff) does a great job on the armature, I then polish it to make it shine.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

When the wire wheel start to throw steel, it is time to throw them away and get a new one. One thing I have done is use a small box that I hold between my legs and I do the wire brushing inside the box with the wheel positioned so that all the wires end up in the box. That worked very well.

These little wires can get into your skin and they are difficult to see.

BB


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I just use cardboard to clean a commutator brush. I may wipe grime off first if it is bad. 

Dremel Wires. Protective clothing and good eye glasses. A good piece of acylic in the way helps too, Like a photo frame with a stand made in!

Gee I should use that, I have some. Ibuy them up at yard sales for displays/pictures.

Let me confess, I love steel wool and despise magnatraction. Scotch brtie does see more use. 
I have to be desperate for steel wool.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

I use the box method to keep from having wires all over the shop. I got one in the bottom of my foot one time, and my son had to extract it. I couldn't see it.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I love my Dremel wire brush ... use it all the time. However, I'm usually walking around the basement shop with socks only on my feet, and no shoes. BAD combination ... though I know any physicist would balk at the idea, I'd swear my socks are magnetic, the way they suck up those brush wires ... ouch ... ouch! ... OUCH !!!!

One of these days I gotta start wearing shoes in the shop!

TJ


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

TJ,
Get yourself a box!!!!!
BB


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

tjcruiser said:


> I love my Dremel wire brush ... use it all the time. However, I'm usually walking around the basement shop with socks only on my feet, and no shoes. BAD combination ..TJ


I feel your pain. I discovered the brush was throwing needles the same way! They are painful and hard to find!


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Y'all might be better off to use a steel wheel rather than stainless. Then you could pick up the wires with a magnet. 

BB


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

BTW, one more important thing. In the unlikely event that you get a wire in you eye, see an eye doctor immediately. Steel can damage your cornea.
BB


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I always wear my safety glasses when I'm doing that, I don't feel like dealing with those issues!


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Ditto. My #1 Rule: Safety Goggles. Safety Goggles. Safety Goggles.

Good reminder, guys.

TJ


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

tjcruiser said:


> Ditto. My #1 Rule: Safety Goggles. Safety Goggles. Safety Goggles.
> 
> Good reminder, guys.
> 
> TJ



Ed #1 safety inspector for the plant and yard.
They want near misses I give them near misses and safety write ups.
They should issue me a badge.
I think they hate me when I run an inspection of the plant and yard.
They end up spending money.
And if it is not fixed by 2 weeks I write it up again! 

I think a full face shield would give you more protection aginst that flying sometimes hot metal.
Can you imaging getting a piece stuck up your nose?
Or lip?
Or go through a jugular vein?

#1 safety inspector Ed has spoken.


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## novice (Feb 2, 2011)

Ok, now wait a minute....

Steel shards in the eye, safety glasses - you guys said cleaning these were easy, now I gotta dress up in protective nuclear fallout clothing to clean my engines?

Sheesh - you guys are killing me - 

Still no kit but got lots of new toys today. Photos' in the New thread coming soon. Nothing real special, mostly HO stuff.


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## novice (Feb 2, 2011)

Well...

I've tried 3 times to clean my HO engines and my O engines - I have no friggin clue what to clean or what to lube or what to oil 

Is there a step by step picture guide of how to do clean these things anywhere?

Maybe someone made a video that I can follow? I've searched and can't find "How to clean your model trains for DUMMIES"!!!!

I must be a complete idiot if children can clean their own and I can't figure out where to start.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Try these to start.


How to Lubricate Model Train Engines

Cleaning And Care Of Your Model Train

Your avatar says it all.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Some basic O care info:

http://www.thortrains.net/manualx.htm

http://www.thortrains.net/manual7.htm

TJ


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## novice (Feb 2, 2011)

Thanks GRJ - I've read these, have removed (as much as I can figure how to) the shell from the chassis and that's as far as I get.

I can clean wheels easy enough, but that's as far as I can get.

I don't see any bearings to lube - I've looked at pictures of where bearings are supposed to be and don't see a darn thing, nor do I understand how to lube gears/motors - if I drip a drop of lube on the exposed gears where the wheels are that's fine, but that doesn't get the lube on to the gear itself or into the motor.

I have several locos where the wheels seem to be very difficult to turn or don't turn at all - I have others where the lights come on, but the loco doesn't move 

I really need a freaking hobby store within driving distance to me


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

In general, if it moves or slides, lube it. (Exception might be motor brushes/armature.) I use 5W-20 or 5W-30 synthetic motor oil (per ServoGuy's recommendations) with good success.

TJ


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## novice (Feb 2, 2011)

Thanks guys - those images are very hard to see but I'm going to try again.

Sheesh, this is nuts.


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