# Cork Roadbed



## Davidfd85 (Jul 4, 2011)

I'm sure this is just personal preference but I'm still going to ask. I was at what was called an "old school" shop over the weekend and asked which glue I should use to glue down the cork roadbed. Well the owner told me that I shouldn't glue it down, he has never done that just used short track nails to hold it down, nails the track down, then just glues the ballast down. He told me if I wanted to change the layout it wouldn't damage the foam board as much doing it that way. 
I understand his way of doing it but is there really an advantage that way compared to gluing the roadbed down? And I am thinking it would be a little harder not gluing it down, getting it set right for curves, turnouts for a beginner to do.

Thanks guys.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Personal preferences, really. His point about "changing the layout down the road" is a good reason not to glue it down. But if you're confident in your layout plans (and not itching to rebuild/rework things later), then glue can certainly help simplify contouring the cork through any curves.

For mine, I used a hot glue gun, working in sections of about 12" at a time ... first on the left-side cork strip, then butting up and gluing the right side strip. I position the centerline (joint between strips) on a premarked track centerline scribes.


TJ


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

Davidfd85 said:


> I understand his way of doing it but is there really an advantage that way compared to gluing the roadbed down? Thanks guys.


Not if you're using foam as a base. Regardless of what one's personal preferance is, the fact is that nails will not hold in foam very well. Because of this, gluing rather than nailing the cork to it is really the best method. 

Some modelers forego the cork completely and just glue the track directly to the foam. The old school method that the owner of where you went was telling you about, does work very well.... just not on foam.

Routerman


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## MacDaddy55 (Aug 19, 2008)

*Go with Glue!*

Just saw this and yes, glue is the way to go! Of course we all have our preferences and I used good old Elmers and clamps to hold the cork(especially thos darn curves)in place...along with some of my wifes smaller darning needles for thos hard to reach areas. simplistic and if the time comes to break the layout down I can just take a blade and cut the cork off the foam. there is a decent article in MR Sept. issue on this subject


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## Bucklaew (Oct 7, 2010)

MacDaddy55 said:


> Just saw this and yes, glue is the way to go! Of course we all have our preferences and I used good old Elmers and clamps to hold the cork(especially thos darn curves)in place...along with some of my wifes smaller darning needles for thos hard to reach areas. simplistic and if the time comes to break the layout down I can just take a blade and cut the cork off the foam. there is a decent article in MR Sept. issue on this subject


I use the elmers glue and push pins. I use a home made compass to lay out my corners, then use my line as the center line for the cork. Then I install the flex track to the cork.


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## Davidfd85 (Jul 4, 2011)

Thanks for all the information and suggustions. Now its my turn to see how it comes out.


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## MacDaddy55 (Aug 19, 2008)

*Good Luck!*

Hey David, Good luck with this and it really isn't that hard...just take your time!:thumbsup:


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## Davidfd85 (Jul 4, 2011)

I do have one other question, I was told to soak the corkboard in water because it makes it easier to lay around curves. How much should they be soaked? Put in a bucket of water or just sprayed down lightly? 
I know it will have to be held in place with the T pins until the glue dries just not sure how wet it should be to make the curves easier to lay down. 

Thanks guys


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

Davidfd85 said:


> I do have one other question, I was told to soak the corkboard in water because it makes it easier to lay around curves. How much should they be soaked? Put in a bucket of water or just sprayed down lightly?
> I know it will have to be held in place with the T pins until the glue dries just not sure how wet it should be to make the curves easier to lay down.
> 
> Thanks guys


Wetting new cork right out of the box is not really necessary. 

Routerman


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

I agree ... the stuff is quite flexible dry. Make sure you split it in halves to contour around curves.


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## Davidfd85 (Jul 4, 2011)

Thanks for the info guys. 
I've just about got it all roadbed down and it went pretty easy thanks again for the info. But now I have an option to consider and need to see which is best.
I have the short rail nails that will go thru the cork and into the foam (1/2") and I also have some regular nails that are a bit longer and will go all the way to the plywood. I'm thinking the longer ones will transfer any noise to the table that the foam is supposed to quiet down. But thats just me thinking. So which way would be the better way for me to do this?

Thanks


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I personally can't see nails holding in foam, so I'd either glue or consider the longer nails.


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I personally can't see nails holding in foam, so I'd either glue or consider the longer nails.


I agree that nails will not hold in foam. But nails will however hold in the cork to a point. Longer nails will work even better. http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Life-Like-1411-All-Purpose-Nails-3-4-p/433-1411.htm Or you can buy longer brads at Lowes or Home Depot. Be advised that nails or brads other than bonified track nails will most likely be silver in color. So after they're in the track, paint them a flat color that matches the ties. After the paint dries they'll be invisable.

Though the nails will hold the track to the cork, they will tend to gradually over time, keep working themselves lose from the cork, in which case you'll have to keep going back and renailing them from time to time. This is because they are not anchored into anything but the cork. 

So instead, the better idea is to glue the track to the cork and then back it up with the longer nails. The nails will hold the track tightly against the cork. This type of pressure will ensure a nice tight glue bond. Thus, after the glue dries, the track will be secure.

The nailing method without glue works very well on plywood, etc. When using these type materials, gluing is not necessary. Using foam as a base however, is a whole different ballgame. For this, gluing is the BEST method.

Routerman


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## Gansett (Apr 8, 2011)

Somewhere I saw where latex caulk, not acrylic caulk, was used to fasten cork roadbed and then the track down. 

It was suggested to tack down the track using two or three daps per foot of track using the caulk to tack it down on the foam board prior to installing cork roadbed to work out the "bugs" in your layout. After your satisfied it's easy to run a wire between to break the bond.

It's what I had planned to do. Please tell me I wasn't dreaming.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Hey Jack,

I think latex caulk and acrylic caulk are pretty much the same thing. Good for track. Easy to clean up any excess with a wet, warm rag.

You might have been thinking about silicone caulk? Much harder to clean up any excess.

Cheers,

TJ


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## Gansett (Apr 8, 2011)

You're right TJ. Silicone caulk won't take paint and the glue/water/alcohol/dish degergent mix for ballast won't adhere.

I got misunderstanded in my own head.


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## Len_S (Aug 5, 2011)

A thin coat of latex caulk and T pins work well on foam. Small weights, such as books or canned goods help also.

Len


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