# First Time Soldering Wires



## hoscale37 (Nov 20, 2011)

I guess an old dog can be taught new tricks...

So I finally decided that it was time for me to learn to solder wires tonight. I've had the wiring, etc for months now- if you have followed any of my posts since 2012....

So here is what I did, and what I have as well. I have a small section of track that is a test piece of track not on my layout. A few months ago I did a test of some zip texturing on this piece of track; which turned out pretty decent. 

So tonight I decided to finally give Sodering wires a try. I have a Weller Pro Solder Gun, ,which I think now, after trying it out- is way too powerful for using it on a train layout as it is a 200 Watt Solder Gun. 

I used 16 Gauge Wire as my Bus Lines to my power pack. Tell me how I can improve my techniques before committing wire and such to my layout. Here is what I did.

On the Bus Lines, I had 16 Gauge Wiring. I stripped the ends off of each piece of wire. 

On the Feeder Lines that went to my track, I had 18 Gauge Wiring; I stripped the ends off of each piece of wire. 

I then took one one end of the 18 Gauge wire and intertwined it with an end of the 16 Gauge wiring. 

From there, I applied some liquid flux, and I heated up the Solder and applied it to the section where the wires were interwined. 

I then ran the wiring up through the bottom of the piece of material that my test track was mounted to where I bent an end of each piece of the wiring to a side of the track. From here I applied flux and solder and the one side went on without any issues. On the other side, I tried to do same thing but didn't have as much luck with the connection being as good as the first one. 

On the ends of the Buss wiring, I attached a round end wiring connector and crimped it so that I could easily connect it to the controller. 

After the wires had cooled, I proceeded to test a train on the track with the soldered wire. The train did move, but I had to nudge it to move and the it took off. I am thinking that maybe my track may not have been completely cleaned. 

What are your thoughts about my process? I think buying a smaller Solder Gun may be a better solution.. 40 or 50 Watts maybe?

What are your thoughts?


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

One thing that I found helps a lot is get the right size of solder wire for the job. The thick heavy stuff is hard to heat and direct on small jobs. Go to Radio Shack and get the thinnest wire you can. It's a lot easier to use and easier to direct where you want it to go. pete


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## wingnut163 (Jan 3, 2013)

and use flux


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

HOSCALE

You did right starting out on a 'test track'

That 200 watter is quite an iron. You'd probably
like a much smaller one. I use a 25 watt Weller.

Flux is very important, but I also like to 'tin' the
wire and what it is to be connected. (Since you
claim amateur status I'll explain 'tin'. You flux then
run the iron with solder on it up and down a wire,
or just a touch if a small object. It will more
readily 'weld' when both are touch by the iron). 

If it's a tiny connection,
which are not uncommon in our scales, I hold the
wire to the object and take a small blob of solder
to it on the tip of the iron. Just a touch of the 
iron will cause a nice solid connection.

Larger connections would need more heat and
more time to 'weld' the parts.

Some others like to go without flux...and most
will not like my method above.

When soldering a drop, I flux then tin a spot on
the rail. You should use some sort of heat sink
to avoid melting the ties. Then bend a tinned short
flat end of the drop. Hold it against the tinned rail and
do a short but firm touch with the iron. 

Some of mine actually come out looking
decent.  But then I sure would want any
river counters checking the others. 

Happy soldering.

Don


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## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

I think the 200 watt iron is perfect for soldering to track. You can get it done quickly and keep the heat local. The longer the iron is on the track as with a low wattage iron, the more the heat spreads. At least that's my theory and it make sense to me.


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## Mayhem (Mar 25, 2013)

Use flux core solder and no need for flux...Use small enough gauge that melts at lower temps so you don't melt the plastic on the wires. Don't worry how much you expose of the wire because you can trim it off. I use an old school pistol grip soldering gun so I can vary the temps, plus you don't burn your *** as much.


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## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

Mayhem said:


> Use flux core solder and no need for flux...Use small enough gauge that melts at lower temps so you don't melt the plastic on the wires. Don't worry how much you expose of the wire because you can trim it off. I use an old school pistol grip soldering gun so I can vary the temps, plus you don't burn your *** as much.


I do the same as you with wires and I use a 40 watt iron. I'd like to try a 200 watt iron for track though. I have one of those solder guns that I haven't tried yet. It just too clumsy or maybe it's just me.


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## Pfunmo (Feb 21, 2013)

I'm an old soldering fool! Did lots of it as a telephone central office tech. That leaves me to tell you there are lots of ways to screw it up! But it can also be real simple. 

Step one is getting the corrosion off the metal. Both the wire and the rail. New wire can often be good and clean by just stripping it back. If it is old salvage wire, that may not be true. Same goes for the rail. Old requires more work and just flux alone may not get it done. For things that matter, I want both metals to shine before I flux. The rail is more often the trouble spot so look it over. If it is not shiny, scrape it off! Sand paper, the tip of a knife or screwdriver will work but I really like using the Dremel tool I keep handy. It takes a bit of caution but just a quick hit with a grinding wheel will shine it quick. Just a tiny amount of flux placed with the end of a toothpick will do a lot to help. Get your wire bent and placed so that it will stay steady while heating. I do this by bending it and then jam a toothpick down into the hole so that the wire is wedged in place. Nothing ruins solder work more than wires moving before it cools. Called a cold solder joint and it will never be very strong. Once ready, put a small bubble of solder on the iron tip. Then it is a matter of a quick touch of the iron to the rail and wire at the same time. This solder bubble will come off the iron, in and around the joint almost instantly----IF the metal is clean and the iron is big enough to quickly heat both parts. Be ready to add a little bit of solder if needed but with a good sized iron, you may not need any more. If you can count to three and the solder has not run into the joint, there is a problem and back off before things start to melt! 
I consider your iron the right size if the tip is right to get it into the space available. I don't consider the gun type as very good because the temperature is often not right and certainly not consistent each time you use it. When the tip begins to heat when you pull the trigger, it is hard to predict when it is right without burning the solder and losing some of the strength. 
Biggest problem for new folks? They don't get it clean and they add WAY too much solder.


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