# Rock/Cliff molds/techniques



## johnfl68 (Feb 1, 2015)

Anyone know of any rock molds or techniques to match this image:










This image is typical of look along the Appalachian Mountains.

Some of the rock molds I have seen so far don't have quite the right detail or look.

Maybe there is a different way to get this look (HO Scale). I would be doing about a 10' wide x 1' tall area on the layout I am working towards. Rock face would be varied along that side, intermixed with trees and foliage 

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

John


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## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

Those are beautiful formations and colors. There are layered formations similar to that in the Black Hills of South Dakota.

I'm not an artist of any sort, so I have no idea how one would make something like that. Good luck!


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

a quick look at the woodland scenics line showed three that might be close enough for you..
the 1136 , 1138, and the 1248


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

Disclaimer-- I have not yet done any rock walls, myself. So take this idea with a big grain of salt.

You could try making the rock wall without the horizontal cracks, first. And make the surface of it about 1/4" thick, so that it is nice and sturdy. Then paint on the color pattern.

Then try taking a straight edge and and a hobby knife and gently scoring the horizontal cracks. Brush away the plaster dust then give the whole wall a black wash -- which should settle in the cracks and bring them out. Some of the large, overhanging pieces might need to be molded or carved and attached separately/

Just a thought...


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Looks like the Shawangunk Escarpment (the Gunks) to me. Did a lot of climbing there when I was younger and could actually do it.

Scenery on a model layout is an interesting thing. Much of the detail you think you see isn't really there, especially when you look at it from HO or N scale distances. It's as much in the painting as it is in the actual details. Take a look at the photo above, then mentally step back a bit. Stop trying to see detail. Suddenly, those black marks that are actually shadows of overhangs and flakes are only black marks. When you see it in HO, your brain fills in the detail.

That said, you basically, you have a couple of options. The Woodland Scenics rock molds noted above will certainly work -- in spite of the fact that they don't appear detailed enough. I have also had good luck making a flat face with Sculptamold, then scoring and gouging it with a palette knife before it sets to achieve rock detail, or you can carve un-set rock castings in the same way. 

For painting, you'll want to use water based paints, because of the way they can be applied in uneven coats. Paint a base coat, but be sloppy about it. Make some areas darker than others. Then take the other colors and stipple them on, using a second moistened brush to spread them. With some work, you can achieve excellent results.

Make some castings or faces and experiment. You're never going to get it perfect the first time. There are also a couple of tutorial videos, both on Youtube and the WS website, that will help.


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## johnfl68 (Feb 1, 2015)

Thank you everyone for your help and suggestions.

wvgca:

I had looked at some of those, but some of the pictures around aren't big enough and hard to tell what they really look like. 

It looks like what they are calling "Shelf" Rock is probably closest to what I am looking for shape and feature wise. They do have the Ready Rock (C1136) and molds (C1247) for the "Shelf" style. The ready rocks will help with doing the larger area a bit quicker, and I can do some molds to help vary things up a bit in places.

I'll probably want to get at least one of the C1136 first to see with my own eyes.


MtRR75:

Thanks, but I am trying to avoid doing it that way, because it would take a long time to do that much in that manor, and also the mess it would make (Apartment layout here).


CTValleyRR:

The "Gunks" would be part of the Appalachian Mountain range, which goes from Alabama all the way up to Newfoundland in Canada. So there are many places that have this similar look. 

I'm not trying to do a exact replication of the picture, it was just a good reference for the rock formations, and also some of the foliage that I am going after the look of.

The water-based painting approach (some call leopard spots as I recall) may not work with the Woodland Scenics Ready Rocks already being painted (if I go with that option), especially trying to match with other cast rocks.


I have seen several places this "Dave Frary" technique, where basically you paint the rock face with a "scenery black" (2 parts earth mixed with flat black - water diluted) as a base coat, allowing it to dry. And then dry brush acrylic White, Black, Raw Sienna, and Raw Umber (a little red as well if doing a desert scene). He does a different style of rock face in the video, but should work for any type of rock face.
See video below:

Skip to 2:45 in the timeline.





So I will have to do some experimenting, and look around some more to see if other rock molds are available by anyone else as well.

John


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Welcome to the site John.

One way to achieve that look is use the ceiling tiles that are used in dropped ceilings.
It carves great and takes latex paint well.
When you break it up haphazardly you get a lot of different shapes.

Just layer it in and carve it to your liking and paint. 

I used some old tiles I saved from a ceiling I redid.

Just giving you another choice, the finished look in these pictures are what I wanted it to look like. With a little carving you can get the look you want.

Ceiling tiles over the top of the tunnel, I picked this picture because it shows the layers more then my finished look in other pictures. You will have to carve the look you want. I was not going for the look your after so it may not look like what you want, but it would work if done different.

View attachment 40632


View attachment 40633


I will be glad to explain the technique better if you want to try.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

John -- thanks for the info on the Gunks and the Appalachians. Never would have known that otherwise. 

Seriously, though, I wasn't thinking of "Ready Rocks", but of their rubber molds for casting your own plaster rocks. You can pop the casting out while it is still soft and add your own details, then add paint once the plaster has fully set.

The technique I was thinking of is different from "leopard spotting", at least as WS uses the term. You take an acrylic (water based, not water color) paint an put a blob in one spot. Then, using a second brush which has been dipped in water, and still carries water on the bristles, stroke the paint in the desired direction(s). This results in a color patch that is very solid at one end (where you put the original paint) and fades toward the end of the stroke, the result of the paint being somewhat diluted by the water on the bristles. Takes some practice to get right 

Unless the Ready Rocks are sealed in polyurethane or some other substance which would prevent acrylics from adhering, this method will work fine, even to enhance factory painted details.

Like Dave Frary, I am also a big fan of drybrushing techniques. These will also work just fine to touch up a factory painted item as well.


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## bpiperjr (Dec 12, 2011)

Try Cripplebush Valley Models. They have great rubber rocks I have used. Just cut, glue, and apply dry wall plaster.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*Another (cheaper) way*

The rock formation in your photo looks a lot like some on my layout. 
I made them with tree bark(the full-size kind, not model.) Tree bark is available in the garden section of Home Depot. I bought a huge bag for about three dollars. The bark can be propped up on one end to put a more interesting angle in the "strata" of the "rocks". I hot glued pieces of bark together. Then I airbrushed them a basic gray color, and added other colors by dry-brushing. This is a technique where you dip a small brush just barely into the paint; getting paint on only the tips of the bristles. Then run the brush across a cloth, to take some of the paint off. The brush can now be stroked lightly across the rocks to add detail. When all has dried overnight, use a spray bottle filled with rubbing alcohol and a small bit of India ink or black liquid shoe polish. This step brings out the shadow, and grain detail.

Good Luck;
Traction Fan


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

*cliff photo*

Photos of tree bark cliff.


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## rhikdavis (May 19, 2015)

Very nice.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Excellent job on the tree bark cliffs, TractionFan. Looks like our New England coastline!


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## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*Rock strata formations/experimentations.*

The previous techniques are all excellent methods to try to experiment with. Also try W.S.
rubber molds for Hydrolcal or crumpled Aluminum foil with hydrolcal. Good luck!
Regard's,tr1


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## jerryrgs (Dec 12, 2012)

*Brandon Rock Molds*

Check here for your rock molds. I don't know if he has what you want, but he has a lit of different Rock molds.


https://www.bragdonent.com/molds.htm


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## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*Another rock stata formation technique.*

To obtain the similar formations you have for examples with the pictures you provided, I think ceiling tiles, stacked and glued together would give you satisfactory similar images
with the use of white latex paint and hydrolcal casting plaster with the areas of the chunky, slab areas in the reference picture, after those liquids dry I think you could introduce
oil paint washes of the appropriate colors determined from the reference pictures there. This will require some experimentation on your part though, to achieve satisfactory results. And I think you can do that satisfactory,after some experimentations or trial and errors :smilie_daumenpos: and possibly an airbrush


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## jerryrgs (Dec 12, 2012)

*Woodland Scenic Rock Mold*

Woodland Scenics has a mold that may be what you are looking for.
Rock Face C1248
http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/Item/C1248/page/1


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