# Ping Pong Table "Topper"



## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

I have a ping pong table which I'll be using as the basis for my Christmas Village layout. I'm thinking that I want to make it a bit bigger than the 5' X 9' confines of the table - most likely going up to 12' X 8'.

I'll use 2 X 4's for the framing, but was looking for opinions on the decking itself - is 1/2" good enough or would 3/4" be significantly better? Cost is a factor, since I'll likely being buying plywood with at least one sanded side.

Also - anyone have experience in protecting a ping pong table top? Moving quilts? I'm thinking that this may also help with noise reduction.

And speaking of noise reduction, extruded insulation foam over the plywood? How thick?

I know this is a bunch of questions, but trial and error is just not in the budget.

Thanks in advance.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

1/2" will be PLENTY with framing on 24" centers. As far as protecting the top, I'd put some padding on the bottom of the supports that contact the table. I'd also design the framing to have "stops" to keep the table centered on the supporting table. Truthfully, you could even use 1x4 lumber for the framing, you're not building a house here.

1" form is sufficient, many use 2" foam so they can sculpt lakes and the like out of the foam.

Since you'll have a significant overhang on the sides of the 5' wide table, I'd consider something clamping it to the table to keep someone from leaning on the edge and picking the other side up. Probably not necessary, but I'd give it some thought.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Bad,

At your intended 12' x 8', that's a lot of deck space to mount on top of your ping pong table leg supports. How far apart are the table legs? Are you sure it wouldn't be easier to forego the ping pong table, and simply make a new (larger) table with leg supports?

If you do use the ping pong table, I would suggest laying some "floating floor" foam underlayment as a cushion barrier ... the kind you would put down underneath a Pergo (or similar) type of floor. Available in rolls at Home Depot, Lowes, etc.

TJ


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

Space is at a premium (no basement, no useable attic space) so I may simply go with rigid foam atop the ping pong table and curtail it at 5' X 9'. I don't want to do that, but I think that's what is going to happen.

I don't really have the funds or the space to start going with a fully dedicated railway platform table. We'd have to give up the living room (VERY unlikely) or the family room (which is where the ping pong table is now). I figured 8 X 12 because it would be a simple support system with 3 sheets of plywood. I could theoretically go smaller, based on the layout design and trim the edges of the table (down to 7' X 10') or something like that, but I don't really want to do that.

I fear that this is going to be a larger project than originally anticipated. I don't want to go nuts, but I don't want to cut corners at this stage, just in case I keep the layout up the whole year round and it really becomes a full-on dedicated hobby.

I hate this self-indecision crap.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I don't think something like 6x10 would tax the table too much. Unless it's a lot different than any table I've seen, it should support the weight of the layout without issue. We're not supporting anvils here.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

If you do opt to lay "wood" on top of the ping pong table with some substantial overhang (like 6x10 or 7x10), I might suggest using MDF rather than plywood. I think the MDF will be stiffer in the long run, with less deflection. 3/4" MDF, likely.

TJ


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Hmm... I can't imagine that plywood with a frame would be an issue, and it'll be a ton lighter than 3/4" MDF! If deflection is really a worry, use 2x3 lumber for the framing. Ain't no way that's going to flex!


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I don't think the table will help if you don't want to drill into it. The wires have to go someplace. On CTT one member used 2 inch foam with one by three construction. Four pieces will get you 8 feet. That is enough for a center access, open or closed. Of course you can't stand on it,but the same applies to a ping pong table. Also you can build it in stages. Try some foam on the table first to see if you like it,before buying the wood. Experiment a little.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

T-Man said:


> I don't think the table will help if you don't want to drill into it. The wires have to go someplace. On CTT one member used 2 inch foam with one by three construction. Four pieces will get you 8 feet. That is enough for a center access, open or closed. Of course you can't stand on it,but the same applies to a ping pong table. Also you can build it in stages. Try some foam on the table first to see if you like it,before buying the wood. Experiment a little.



He could put the the plywood on top of the table using 2x4's underneath the plywood to raise it some. With the 2x4's under the width of it that would take care of the over hang too.
I would be worried about all the weight on the pong table if there is no extra bracing under it. 
O gauge weight adds up fast.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I was assuming that he'd have either 1x4 or 2x3 framing under, which solves the wiring issue. As far as the weight, I guess that really depends on the specific construction of the ping-pong table. I have one that looks like it would support a battleship.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> I was assuming that he'd have either 1x4 or 2x3 framing under, which solves the wiring issue. As far as the weight, I guess that really depends on the specific construction of the ping-pong table. I have one that looks like it would support a battleship.



I think he was just thinking of sitting it on top?


Most of the tables I have seen look like this,












if it is like this I would definitely worry about weight.
maybe not for N scale.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, with that table, I'd second the opinion you have!  You could just have the legs of the train table extend alongside the ping pong table and just be able to pull the table out when you wanted it. Of course, since that's a folding one, you could also fold it and put it away, it's not like you're going to pick up a 10x12 train layout to use the table!


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## Badwolf & Arizona RR (Jun 17, 2011)

This is pretty close to the table I'd be using.










Certainly not pro-quality, but more support than the blue one pictured above.

FWIW: I've had TWO (2) Sansui SP-X9000's on one half of the table and it supported them just fine. Total weight was about 140-160 lbs.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Keep your cost and weight down, 1/4 or 3/8 ply over 2 x 2's topped with 1/2" to 1" blue or pink foam unless you want some deep rivers or cut's then go with 2" for depth and you'll be styling!
AZ doesn't have the humidity so warping will not be a factor, 2 x 2 are plenty strong besides they are just supporting the edges the table will support the rest, word of caution in your design how are you going to reach the middle, 4 feet is a long way out there!
I would use moving blankets if you have them or go to Walmart or Target and get a couple of cheap acrylic blankets to cover the table.


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