# Roundhouse Powered Track Cleaner



## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

What are the thoughts on how desirable these track cleaners are?

I bought one as a non runner. Turned out the lithium grease turned in to silly putty, locking up the moving parts. All cleaned out, greased with Labelle Teflon grease, and it seems to be a good runner. LED's were even added for the headlights. It even has spare sanding discs.

Well, I came a cross a heavy, brass and cloth roller track cleaner.

Since I am running DCC, I really do not need the Roundhouse, and have no desire to convert it. 

I was just wondering what you guys think, as eBay is all over the place.

Thanks!


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I have a Climate controlled room size DCC layout.

I came across a simple track cleaning car that I have
a loco push around the layout every month of so.

It has a felt pad that pushes against the rail. As made,
you filled it's tank with alcohol and that soaked the pad.
My tank leaks so I just put a few drops on the pad and
that does a great job. I need nothing more. My loco
does all the work.

Unless you have a garage or yard shed layout or have
steel or brass track, this
type of cleaner is likely all you would need.









I saw an identical one at a train show this past
Saturday for only 5.00. A real steal.

Don


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## time warp (Apr 28, 2016)

Those roundhouse units were better in the days of brass track because of the abrasive cleaning aspect. They are a little rough on nickle silver track.
I'm with DonR, a little alcohol cleaning once in awhile works great for me. I no longer use a cleaning car because I have small layout, but I did have a twin to Don's.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

I'm working on bashing a plastic diesel shell (shortened) into a _'rail grinder'_... to be made into a track cleaner.
I picked up the shell at a yard sale for $2.50.
So far, total cost is projected out at about $8.00, minus trucks and paint.
I'll have to bore out a brass 'tank' on a lathe, and make an end-cap and o-ringed top screw-cap, but it should work halfway decent.
I'll probably push it with an SW-1500 or a VO-1000, and pull a Con-Cor Branchline sleeper behind for 'crew quarters', and a boxcar for 'spare grinding wheels'.
Oh, and a tank car or two, for a 'water supply'.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

LS

I don't 'miss' the lack of viable tank to keep the
track cleaning pad wet with alcohol. I've found
that I can make 2 complete rounds of my 
room size layout using but a few drops on the pad.

I flip it to add a few more drops then 'clean the
branch line and yard leads. 

Might make your scratch building job easier.

Don


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

Yeah, I am looking to sell it, but do not know the value. It does have LED headlights, and all mechanicals cleaned and lubed with LaBelle -Teflon grease and oil. I figured it would would best with brass or steel track.

Thanks!


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

DonR said:


> LS
> 
> I don't 'miss' the lack of viable tank to keep the
> track cleaning pad wet with alcohol.
> ...


Not sure what you mean by "viable tank".
The 'tank' will be hogged out of brass, and bored on a lathe.
End cap and filler cap will be turned the same way.
The end cap will be soldered on, and the filler cap will be a threaded/slotted screw with an O-ring.
The diesel shell will have a lift-off piece to facilitate filling.
My only concern is making the whole affair look like a rail grinding operation, without being overbearing on a model scale -- it'll require a minimum of 5 cars to be prototype.
Plus, I doubt the scale speed will be at all realistic. It might be fine for photographic purposes, but a rail grinding operation creeps along at a snail's pace.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

@LateStarter -- why not just get a sheet of brass and roll your own tank? Seems like a waste to bore the tank out of solid material, unless you're trying to add a large amount of weight?


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Shdwdrgn said:


> @LateStarter -- why not just get a sheet of brass and roll your own tank? Seems like a waste to bore the tank out of solid material, unless you're trying to add a large amount of weight?


Yeah, weight is the issue.
The diesel shell and handmade styrene frame are practically weightless. Plus, the shell-center section has to be cut out to eliminate about 50% of it's length.
I have access to a Clausing lathe, and lots of square and round brass bar stock, and I've got machining skills.
Plus, a viable way to incorporate a fill cap is probably best suited to solid brass with a threaded hole.
But your idea has merit, if I can add weight elsewhere.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

if it's similar to the one I have, the 'boxcab' style, they do sell for decent amounts on eBay ...heavy, excellent low speed running, slightly quieter than a coffee grinder


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

wvgca said:


> if it's similar to the one I have, the 'boxcab' style, they do sell for decent amounts on eBay ...heavy, excellent low speed running, slightly quieter than a coffee grinder
> 
> View attachment 270353


Wow...
That... is a freaking awesome idea!!
Terrific looking job!


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Some day I want to build a very early steamer, like Stephenson's Rocket, and turn that into a track cleaning car.


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## LateStarter (Mar 12, 2016)

Shdwdrgn said:


> Some day I want to build a very early steamer, like...


Great idea...
Shouldn't be that difficult... not much in the way of valve gear and rods.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

LateStarter said:


> Great idea...
> Shouldn't be that difficult... not much in the way of valve gear and rods.


No, just some details on the outside, but it has a couple of nice large tank areas to work with and the cleaning solution would add weight. It just needs a small motor and a computer chip to keep it out of the way of other trains.


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

Yes, that is the one. What cleans track grime with out dissolving the pad adhesive? I do have replacemnt felt pads as well.


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## time warp (Apr 28, 2016)

LateStarter said:


> Not sure what you mean by "viable tank".
> The 'tank' will be hogged out of brass, and bored on a lathe.
> End cap and filler cap will be turned the same way.
> The end cap will be soldered on, and the filler cap will be a threaded/slotted screw with an O-ring.
> ...


Why not just use some copper pipe?


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

rrgrassi said:


> Yes, that is the one. What cleans track grime with out dissolving the pad adhesive? I do have replacemnt felt pads as well.


If you have the factory pads, 70% alcohol in small amounts is okay, not to the point where it's dripping off ..
The MDC / RoundHouse track cleaner is designed so that the center of the pads is offset from fhe rail center, and the pads normally turn while in operation, and most of the pad surface is used, not in just two 'strips'..


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## IslandTrains (Feb 14, 2016)

When I was into Z scale those little locomotives would start to stumble after only an hour or so of use as they were so susceptible to even the tiniest bit of dirt. I bought one of those electronic track cleaners and it worked fantastic! I could now run the trains all day at a show without a hiccup. Unfortunately they are only for DC systems. They cost about $50.


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## IslandTrains (Feb 14, 2016)

Just found the electronic track cleaner. It's a "Guagemaster HF-1"

Todd


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

wvgca said:


> If you have the factory pads, 70% alcohol in small amounts is okay, not to the point where it's dripping off ..
> The MDC / RoundHouse track cleaner is designed so that the center of the pads is offset from fhe rail center, and the pads normally turn while in operation, and most of the pad surface is used, not in just two 'strips'..


Cool! Thanks for the info!


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