# Control panel for a DC controled layout using chart tape



## videobruce (Jun 15, 2011)

I decided some time ago to stick with conventional DC operation in spite of the frenzy over DCC due to the 27 existing older motive power that is not DCC friendly I had that is in good running condition. Sure I could sell them, but for less than half what I paid (including adding Microtrain couplers), then pay $100 (average price) to replace them. Then add the cost of three DCC 'cabs' to the mix. I had/have three DC cabs now including a dual cab that I just rebuilt.

I took the concept from my first layout 17 years ago to design the panel as close to scale as possible as opposed to a 'linear' design due to the complexity of the plan. It's just too confusing to keep track of everything if I didn't . My 1st layouts panel was linear, but it just didn't work. I did try it again to come up with something, but it was a no go. 
I wanted something that someone could look at and figure out without a long learning curve. Though, that night still be debatable, it's as good as it gets.

I don't have the skills to do computer based graphic work, so the plan was drawn out by hand, ruler & compass. Both with the full size paper templates I used for the actual layout and the layout for the panel. I used 1/8" white Plexiglas for the base of the panel and a 3/32" clear acrylic sheet for the top protective cover. 

For the track itself, I used chart or graphic tape which is hard to find due to the use of computer graphics. I had some left over from my first panel, but need more. I bought 1/8" and 1/16", but found the 1/16" worked best due to the number of parallel tracks I have.

To layout the plan I did what I did (in a smaller scale) for the actual table by placing the paper plan over the surface, securing it to the frame of the panel and using a *sharp* 'pic' pressing the point every half inch or closer, tracing the plan so I can use the indentations as a guide where to place the tape. If I remember correctly, I believe I used carbon paper to trace the layout to the Plexiglas on my 1st layout (a smaller panel).

I came up with a choice of colors to separate tracks & blocks so one could follow the route around. Red & orange for track one. Blue & green for track two. Tan for the sidings, black for the yard.

I used Rub on dry transfers letters & numbers for the turnouts, blocks and labeling on the panel. The transfer of the 'ink' works fine as long as you fully 'rub' the number or letter being sure you don't miss any part or the character will be incomplete. You can use any blunt object as long as it doesn't tear the sheet of transfers. With a white panel, I choose the most common color; black.

Source for the chart/graphic tape is here (they had the best selection and prices);
IDENTI-TAPE - Chart Tape & Map Tape

The main (expensive) source for the specific size of lettering and numbers was;
Dry Transfers FLS Discount Supplies

The other source was in the UK (much cheaper, but font size was larger);
Rub On Transfer Letters and Numbers - Sticker World

But there is also here (Woodland Scenics);
Letters / Numbers Model Railroad Decals

* Two notes here; *
There are a couple of types of charting/graphic tape. One with a very glossy finish (plastic like) and the other a matte finish (cloth like). I found the glossy finish does not bend well. Tight curves are a problem as the tape 'wrinkles' depending on the tightness of the curve. The more flexible cloth like tape does not. I had to replace/redo some of the curves due to this. Not a huge deal, but an annoyance.

The point (font) size of the numbers & letters was important. Most of the dry transfers had larger font sizes which would of been too large for this application. The only one that had sizes smaller than 12 point was FLS (2nd link) which was the most expensive (around $20 a package). Eight and ten point were the best. I did use some six and twelve.

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## videobruce (Jun 15, 2011)

Attached are photos for the tape and rub on dry transfers.
Also are photos for the panel with toggle switches for block control & turnouts. 

I did a separate thread on electronic suppliers for sources for toggles;
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=14536

On the third attachment, the rows of toggles are push buttons for turnouts. The two rows to the right of the 10 track hump are diode matrix configuration where one button lines the route.
The two rows to the left and below the layout are for the turnouts directly above where space was not sufficient to place the toggles near the turnout like the rest of the layout. Those toggles and the associated turnout are both numbered.

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## feldon30 (Dec 30, 2012)

I am in awe. Bravo!


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## videobruce (Jun 15, 2011)

I designed this to 'hinge' (flip out) so I can work on the reverse side without working upside down. This duplicated my 1st layout design and it worked Ok. I will support the panel when it is 'flipped' by inserting two roofing nails through the supports and the frame. If I feel additional support is needed I can always slap together a wooden brace of some kind to support it from the floor.

Attached are pics of my first layouts panel (original design, then revised) and the current layouts panel with closeups of the toggles and open and closed side views. Hopefully it won't be such a 'rats nest' as the 1st one was. 
The holes in the panel are for bi-colored LED's for the turnouts. I'm using servos with control boards that allows a bi colored LED saving space on the panel and less holes to drill. I will also add support wires crossing lengthwise to tie off the wires keeping them from hanging down.

I'm questioning my use of 1x2"s for the support arms for the panel. My old panel used 1x4's so I might make a change here.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Bruce,

I have only time for a quick look now, but at first glance, that control panel looks fabulous! Incredibly crisp, professional.

Duly noted ... I want to come back and read this in more detail later on ...

Cheers,

TJ


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## Carl (Feb 19, 2012)

Bruce...........very professional work on the control panel. Thanks for sharing.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Bruce,

Back for a 2nd look. I embedded your pics.

Really nice work, and an excellent photo/narrative how-to thread here. Thanks for sharing!

TJ


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## videobruce (Jun 15, 2011)

Thanks. Someone once complained about the size being too large for his mobile electronic toy so I just did an attachment (not here that I remember).


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## aircooled (Jan 28, 2013)

Awesome! Just awesome!


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## Ranger (Mar 4, 2012)

That is an awesome control panel!


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## videobruce (Jun 15, 2011)

I did have a serious issue which I never encountered before. I have dealt with 'plastic' sheets for years, drilling holes and cutting. Not my favorite material (though better than metal), but the white base sheet which was a 'cast' type of material (brittle) chipped out severely when I drilled the smaller of the two holes for the LED's.

Of the 105 (give or take) 1/4" holes I drilled for the toggles, I had *zero* problems. Drilling the smaller hole for the turnout position LED's the back side of the sheet chipped out and one hole near the edge cracked the sheet making it necessary to do a repair. Thankfully it wasn't all the way across and you can't see the crack in the final product, but it was really upsetting.

Here is a pic of three bits. 
Left is a 1/4" typical wood bit, center is a 1/4" 90 degree bevel plastic bit that I have had for years, right is the new 13/64" 80 degree bevel bit that apparently caused the problem. Note, I tried the same bit with a scrap clear sheet and there was* no* issue. It was the combination of the bevel and the cast Plexiglas sheet where the problem surfaced.


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## videobruce (Jun 15, 2011)

It was suggested elsewhere to use automotive pin stripeing. Has anyone used this without a top protective layer and if so, how about protection for it from dirt, cuts and/or pealing off?


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## videobruce (Jun 15, 2011)

reserve


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## txdyna65 (Aug 17, 2012)

Awesome looking panel :thumbsup:, Im glad I dont have to wire it lol


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## videobruce (Jun 15, 2011)

*update*

I added shelves for my two 'throttles'. One a single, the other a dual supply that was re-built. I also reinforced the bracket for the panel.


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## videobruce (Jun 15, 2011)

It was suggested elsewhere to use Avery laser labels;
http://www.amazon.com/Avery-White-Mailing-Labels-Printers/dp/B00006B8FZ/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

I see they also make labels for Inkjets, but the labels are actually 'frosted', something Avery does not state. 
http://www.avery.com/avery/en_us/Pr...bels/Easy-Peel-Clear-Address-Labels_05660.htm
http://www.amazon.com/Avery-Mailing-Labels-Printers-18660/dp/B00004Z5T0/ref=cm_rdp_product

But, actually cutting them to size might be a problem. For longer labels that makes sense, but for just numbers or individual letters, it would be a real chore. Has anyone tried any of these??


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## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*control panel learning curve*

I like the way the toggle switch levers correspond to the colored block sections, thus reducing the learning control curve. For sure, a most professional job, well done!:thumbsup:
regards,
tr1


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Bruce

That panel is a work of art (bet you didn't know he could do that :laugh.

It is very clear and you can easily follow your trains as you precede
them by flipping to the power they need.

But, gasp, all those power switches. All that wiring work. I know,
I had a big N DC layout once. So much that I resorted to using
phone company indoor cables. If only..er, uh ..but
then, as you say, DCC ain't cheap.

Don


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## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*Continuous improvements*

Well, I'm going to attempt to redo my control board on my current dc layout, also to make it more user friendly which will greatly enhance the dc/Dcc option control with DPDT toggle switches, center off momentary switches to operate the turnouts. Pardon me for budding in here, sorry.
Regards,
tr1


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## videobruce (Jun 15, 2011)

Why do you think you are budding in??

Looking back in post 4, my 1st layout, the panel was linear design as in prototype dispatching. The problem was, which I didn't think of, it was double track, twice around which made things very complicated. One lap ok, but the 2nd, it was just too hard to follow. I tried to do the same here, but because of it being a dog bone of sorts, I couldn't come up with a linear version that made sense.


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## videobruce (Jun 15, 2011)

FYI, after a three year hiatus, I returned to hopefully continue wiring this. It took me a while to figure out where I left off and had a better idea to use color coded feeders based on the color of the blocks. Green & blue for track 2, orange & red for track 1 & brown for sidings & the yard. I also decided to up my wire gauge from 20 to 18 from the CP to the terminal strips. I had to order that gauge as I only had 20 gauge in colors. A place called Del City (that sells auto related supplies) had what appeared to be the best price for 100' spools at $7.35


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