# How to test springy flex-track



## abt (5 mo ago)

I'm converging on a layout in HO. I'm planning to use Atlas flex track at least on parts of the layout including some curves. Ideally, I'd like to put down all the track including the inclines, risers etc. and test the whole system before gluing down the track. However, given that the Atlas flex track doesn't hold its shape, it's not clear to me how I do this. I watched countless videos on laying flex track but it seems that those folks glue down their tracks without testing them first (which makes sense given that they know what they are doing). 

Any advice? I would greatly appreciate it!


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## Conductorkev (Nov 5, 2021)

Use track nails making sure not to put them in too far. When you got it finalized trace the outside of your roadbed if using making sure track is centered inside it. If not using roadbed then mark your centerline.


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## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

I just bought a bog box of straight pins to hold the Atlas flex track in place... Those type of pins that bend easily, and sometimes come in dress shirts that are still in their cellophane package. The straight pins hold the flex track in place, even when bent to 11.5" radius curves. The pins held the track, and he cork roadbed in place well enough to test things. I used the same pins to put down the track after gluing the cork roadbed to the risers and foamboards underneath. They hold so well, I have never been compelled to use anything more permanent.

But... I was using N scale. Not sure if HO would present a bigger challenge for the pins. And this process wouldn't work on a plywood surface.. only a foam based surface.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Abt

What you use to temporarily stabilize your track would
depend on the material is is laid on. If you are using a 
foam base stick pins would be sufficient. If the track is
laid right on plywood, you'd have to drive or screw
into it...I would try using screws OUTSIDE the rails.
Don't drive thru the ties. Once your testing is done
use a adhesive such as Elmer's white glue...SPARINGLY.

Don


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## SF Gal (11 mo ago)

Use "Homasote" fiber board and nail and pull nails (it's easy peasy) as many times as you want, no glue at all needed.
Fiber board is the BEST underlayment for flex track. Comes in 4x8 sheets.


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## Mixed Freight (Aug 31, 2019)

JeffHurl said:


> I just bought a bog box of straight pins to hold the Atlas flex track in place... Those type of pins that bend easily, and sometimes come in dress shirts that are still in their cellophane package. The straight pins hold the flex track in place, even when bent to 11.5" radius curves. The pins held the track, and he cork roadbed in place well enough to test things. I used the same pins to put down the track after gluing the cork roadbed to the risers and foamboards underneath. They hold so well, I have never been compelled to use anything more permanent.
> 
> But... I was using N scale. Not sure if HO would present a bigger challenge for the pins. And this process wouldn't work on a plywood surface.. only a foam based surface.


I kinda did the same thing, with Atlas code 55 N-scale track. Except I used flat wire-type staples (like the kind from an Arrow staple gun). Like-wise................ I have 1/8" cork roadbed caulked down to 1-1/2" pink foam. Which allows the staples to easily be pushed in by hand.

The staples can span over 3 or 4 ties, and be placed on either side of the rails, or in between. And they are flat enough that you can even run your trains over them with no problems. Of course, the staples are just temporary. Once track has been secured down and the caulk or glue dried, then the staples are removed.


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

If the track is directly on plywood, a particularly well suited nail would be roofing nails. They’re not very long and have a wide wafer thin head. Use those on the outside of curves with the head of the nail in the rail web, not against the ties. Should work on foam too really.
With the head in the rail web, it’s low enough that there’s nothing that will snag.

They’re magnetic too, so as far as repurposing them later, there’s a ton of applications. I.e. could tap them into ceiling drywall, touch up the wafer head with matching paint, and magnetically secure a curtain to hide layout lights. Could “magically” hang Christmas lights that same way. Very handy style of nail.


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## abt (5 mo ago)

DonR said:


> Abt
> 
> What you use to temporarily stabilize your track would
> depend on the material is is laid on. If you are using a
> ...


Don - I have foam board as the base layer and then (at least in some places) Woodland Scenic risers. I'm planning to have foam roadbed but I was thinking to test without it initially. The stick pins sound like the way to go. Thank you!


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## abt (5 mo ago)

Conductorkev said:


> Use track nails making sure not to put them in too far. When you got it finalized trace the outside of your roadbed if using making sure track is centered inside it. If not using roadbed then mark your centerline.


Thank you for your comment. I'm planning on using foam roadbed so I'll make sure to trace the outside.


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## abt (5 mo ago)

OilValleyRy said:


> If the track is directly on plywood, a particularly well suited nail would be roofing nails. They’re not very long and have a wide wafer thin head. Use those on the outside of curves with the head of the nail in the rail web, not against the ties. Should work on foam too really.
> With the head in the rail web, it’s low enough that there’s nothing that will snag.
> 
> They’re magnetic too, so as far as repurposing them later, there’s a ton of applications. I.e. could tap them into ceiling drywall, touch up the wafer head with matching paint, and magnetically secure a curtain to hide layout lights. Could “magically” hang Christmas lights that same way. Very handy style of nail.


I have foam as the base but those roofing nails sure sound cool!


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## abt (5 mo ago)

Mixed Freight said:


> I kinda did the same thing, with Atlas code 55 N-scale track. Except I used flat wire-type staples (like the kind from an Arrow staple gun). Like-wise................ I have 1/8" cork roadbed caulked down to 1-1/2" pink foam. Which allows the staples to easily be pushed in by hand.
> 
> The staples can span over 3 or 4 ties, and be placed on either side of the rails, or in between. And they are flat enough that you can even run your trains over them with no problems. Of course, the staples are just temporary. Once track has been secured down and the caulk or glue dried, then the staples are removed.


Staples! That's a great idea. I'll get some from HomeDepot and give it a try. Should also work with the Woodland Scenic risers, I think.


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## abt (5 mo ago)

SF Gal said:


> Use "Homasote" fiber board and nail and pull nails (it's easy peasy) as many times as you want, no glue at all needed.
> Fiber board is the BEST underlayment for flex track. Comes in 4x8 sheets.


That ship sort of sailed... but thank you for your comment! (And, an extra hi! since there don't seem to be a lot of gals on this forums... - Anne)


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

The staples will hold fine in WS risers, that's what I used.
I used T50 staples, will just fit over two code 83 ties. One tie in code 100.

I used cork roadbed and they worked great there also.
When you push them in go over the ties but put the staple tight 
against the outside of the rail at a slight angle, 20° + -.
This holds the track firmly without putting too much pressure on the ties. 
You don't want too much pressure there that may deform the track gauge.

I used this method for the permanent track as well.
It held great till I ballasted the track some months later.
Painted the ties and rails with a lot of paint and it soaked into the ties good enough to 
hold things in place when dry so nothing moved when I pulled the staples.
The ballast will permanently hold the track.

This will also work in pink or blue foam for yards or spurs.
My yard was held in place for two years before I ballasted with no problem.

The nicest thing about using T50 staples is you can run the trains as 
soon as you finish laying the track, no glue to dry overnight or so and
very easy to make changes if necessary. No glue to clean off anything.
As Sargent Rick Hunter often said "Works for me."

Magic


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

And this is why I use MicroEngineering flex track. It stays where you put it, and it's simple to tweak the curvature if you don't get it right the first time. Of course, since you purchased all that Atlas flextrack, this ship has kind of sailed, too.


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## abt (5 mo ago)

CTValleyRR said:


> And this is why I use MicroEngineering flex track. It stays where you put it, and it's simple to tweak the curvature if you don't get it right the first time. Of course, since you purchased all that Atlas flextrack, this ship has kind of sailed, too.


I've only purchased a couple of Atlas flextrack and now ordered 5 microengineering ones to see which one I feel more comfortable with. I figured the other one I can always use for straight track so it's not I have to throw either of them out. Thank you for your suggestion!


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## abt (5 mo ago)

Magic said:


> The staples will hold fine in WS risers, that's what I used.
> I used T50 staples, will just fit over two code 83 ties. One tie in code 100.
> 
> I used cork roadbed and they worked great there also.
> ...


Thank you for your detailed response, Magic. I hadn't thought of using staples on a semi-permanent basis but now I will!


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

just remember to solder the joints before bending to reduce the chance of making a kink instead of a curve.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

abt said:


> I've only purchased a couple of Atlas flextrack and now ordered 5 microengineering ones to see which one I feel more comfortable with. I figured the other one I can always use for straight track so it's not I have to throw either of them out. Thank you for your suggestion!


A little advice -- I haven't been able to find their NON-weathered flex track in stock anywhere for a while. The weathered stuff can be extremely difficult to shape. 

For shaping it, I have had excellent luck with using a block of wood or acrylic about 1-1/2" long. Cut two parallel saw kerfs in to align with the rails. Snug this over the rails and run it back and forth over the section you want to shape, applying firm pressure in the direction you want to curve it. Use the handle of a paint brush or Sharpie to gently stroke the ties into alignment.

A curve template or two can help you make sure you get a nice, smooth curve.


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