# 675 locomotive



## watchunglava (Jan 12, 2010)

hey everyone , t-man says im no longer a beginer so i should post here . this was my grandfathers set whom we called chief. he was an engineer. set hasn't been used in 35 years, i took everything apart and cleaned it up , steel wooled the track and got her up and running. aparantly the rear wheels on the engine are off but i have them so little repairs here and there , and i want to change out the brushes on the motor ect and give it a proper tune up, but here they are rolling for the first time in over 35 years.


----------



## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

I think that's admirable, Watchunglava. I run AF postwar stuff that was made in the 1950's, so I have a soft spot for any effort to refit the old giants and get them working again. Nice job!


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Reckers said:


> I think that's admirable, Watchunglava. I run AF postwar stuff that was made in the 1950's, so I have a soft spot for any effort to refit the old giants and get them working again. Nice job!


I agree..................,

But put a little more light when you take pictures please.

And tell the numbers too.


----------



## watchunglava (Jan 12, 2010)

big ed said:


> I agree..................,
> 
> But put a little more light when you take pictures please.
> 
> And tell the numbers too.


the engine is a 47 675 .


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

watchunglava said:


> the engine is a 47 675 .



The other numbers the caboose?


----------



## watchunglava (Jan 12, 2010)

the caboose is a sp2357 the tender is 2466wx


----------



## watchunglava (Jan 12, 2010)

2402 is the passengr car i have like 5 other frieght cars from that period as well but they weren't in the vid


----------



## watchunglava (Jan 12, 2010)

you like them big ed?


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

watchunglava said:


> the caboose is a sp2357 the tender is 2466wx



There it is.
Couldn't make the 2357 out in the picture.


Sorry for all the yelling.:laugh:


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

watchunglava said:


> you like them big ed?



Yes post some still shots.

You know non video?

Freight cars too.


----------



## watchunglava (Jan 12, 2010)

i think the fast track looks more pleasing to the eye and more authentic . does it have any drawbacks?


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

watchunglava said:


> i think the fast track looks more pleasing to the eye and more authentic . does it have any drawbacks?


To each his own.

I got tube track. Cheaper. Easier to work with. 
Fast track is nice.

If I wanted to spend the bucks I would go all Ross track and switches.


----------



## watchunglava (Jan 12, 2010)

!!!!!!!!!!! wow yes ross track thats what im talking about, just checked it out wow does that look good .


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

My224 has the extra rod you are missing I'll get a picture later.


----------



## watchunglava (Jan 12, 2010)

T-Man said:


> My224 has the extra rod you are missing I'll get a picture later.


what rod is it missing?


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

It was hard to tell with your video. Here is my rod arraignment. The rear wheels have a plate not a screw, my mistake.


----------



## watchunglava (Jan 12, 2010)

*all good*



T-Man said:


> It was hard to tell with your video. Here is my rod arraignment. The rear wheels have a plate not a screw, my mistake.


mine has all those rods. my vid camera sucks .


----------



## watchunglava (Jan 12, 2010)

i just ordered new rear wheel set up. it was hard to find the one with the leaf springs which is what the first ones came with the first few months . got it for $20 ! nice .


----------



## watchunglava (Jan 12, 2010)

need help! having an issue with this engine. with the bulb. i ordered replacement bulbs. 1447 18v e10 bulbs.

the wire going to the bulb is not secured. it wasn't secure with the original bulb. the original worked . but burned out so i ordered new ones . i stick the wire in the base so it is touching the bulb .

bulb isn't working and it shorts out now with the bulb in. but works fine without it in.

do i need to solder down the wire somewhere?


----------



## Boston&Maine (Dec 19, 2007)

The hot wire going to the bulb can only touch the little lead nipple on the bottom of the bulb... It needs to be insulated from the socket and from the main metal part of the bulb... Inside of the socket should be a small black washer with a small piece of metal in the center of it, and the wire should be soldered to this... I can get pictures if you want... Is this what you are talking about?


----------



## watchunglava (Jan 12, 2010)

*ahhh*



Boston&Maine said:


> The hot wire going to the bulb can only touch the little lead nipple on the bottom of the bulb... It needs to be insulated from the socket and from the main metal part of the bulb... Inside of the socket should be a small black washer with a small piece of metal in the center of it, and the wire should be soldered to this... I can get pictures if you want... Is this what you are talking about?


yes exactly. i forgot about that washer. thanks im on it now . thank you so much seriously .


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I am working on a shell for a 675 and would like to see some clean pictures of the under frame parts. Also, could you please measure the eccentric rod length from the rivet to the wheel. It's the one that attaches at the top to the shell.
Pictures of the parts would help. I need the length for comparison.
Thanks.


----------



## watchunglava (Jan 12, 2010)

T-Man said:


> I am working on a shell for a 675 and would like to see some clean pictures of the under frame parts. Also, could you please measure the eccentric rod length from the rivet to the wheel. It's the one that attaches at the top to the shell.
> Pictures of the parts would help. I need the length for comparison.
> Thanks.


sure i will post up some pics, as far as the rod length? your talking about that long screw? you want me to measure the screw or take a caliper reading of the hole.


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

The 224 has the same part but the difference is in the length from the rivet by the wheel to the first rivet. See the marks.










Thanks how's your running?


----------



## watchunglava (Jan 12, 2010)

T-Man said:


> The 224 has the same part but the difference is in the length from the rivet by the wheel to the first rivet. See the marks.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


its running perfectly now , thanks. i will take pics and post when i get home tonight.


----------



## watchunglava (Jan 12, 2010)

*son of a *****!!!*

i was about to take the pictures for you then notices the slf tapping screw was loose. i didnt realize how soft the piece was and ended up snapping it !!!

looks like im now looking for a couple pieces .


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Where is the screw? They should be machine screws.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

T-Man said:


> Where is the screw? They should be machine screws.



BETTER YET WHERE ARE THE PICTURES?:laugh:


----------



## yamaha226 (Sep 7, 2010)

dont use steel wheel around post war trains. the magna traction will pick it up and cause all kind of problems


----------



## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

It doesn't have magnatration. Most of my engines don't have it.
For steel wool removal all you need is a stronger magnet.
In some instances the wool is better than a dremel wire wheel, and safer to.


----------



## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

I recommend you throw your steel wool away and keep it a long ways from your toy trains.
The little whiskers of steel will wreck havoc with a toy train. Use a ScotchBrite pad to clean the track. It works well and no mess.

I recommend you clean the track with a magnet to clean up the steel whiskers.
Bruce Baker


----------

