# Ok what are these female connectors called



## Conductorkev (Nov 5, 2021)

I can't seem to find any connectors for these mini toggles the smallest that home depot or lowes has just do not stay on. So I search for some on fleabay and I get everything but when I am searching for mini female connectors. If anyone knows a place I can get some connectors for the below pic of the toggle below that will actually stay on it would be much appreciated.


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## rrman987 (Aug 29, 2021)

What5 are you looking for a one piece plaxtic part with three metallic openings that line up with switch blades, or individual connectors that slide on the blades. You may need to peruse Mouser and Digikey online catalogs for something that might work.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

Those are solder lugs. You might find some small female spade terminal that might sort of fit that you crimp on to wire that would sort of fit. Is there some reason you don't want to solder? I don't think a single plug will be found that fits.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

How about some brass HO track connectors? If you have them.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

You would still need to solder to the brass rail connector. Better to solder to the switch, much better connection that any made up connector, even a spade lug since the switch is not designed for a connector.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

It is a good question. Back in the 80's Lionel made the Sound of Steam, and the tender was joined by a small lug, male and female. I will have to check to see of the rail connector works.


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## Conductorkev (Nov 5, 2021)

Lemonhawk said:


> Those are solder lugs. You might find some small female spade terminal that might sort of fit that you crimp on to wire that would sort of fit. Is there some reason you don't want to solder? I don't think a single plug will be found that fits.



I'm horrible at soldering and more than likely make connections between the two posts......


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## Conductorkev (Nov 5, 2021)

rrman987 said:


> What5 are you looking for a one piece plaxtic part with three metallic openings that line up with switch blades, or individual connectors that slide on the blades. You may need to peruse Mouser and Digikey online catalogs for something that might work.



Anything that I can make the proper connection without soldering.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

It did not fit but it is so close. N scale will get you even smaller. You should take up soldering the tin silver combination is so much easier than the lead joints found on the older engines. More heat is needed for them.
The engines just end up missing their female connectors.


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## kilowatt62 (Aug 18, 2019)

Mouser, MCM electronics, parts express will all have a selection of crimp style connectors. I wish I could remember the name of the connectors you need.


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## kilowatt62 (Aug 18, 2019)

“Quick disconnect” crimp style connectors. These are what I had in mind in my previous post. 
A quick search on parts express dotcom revealed these.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Well, Conductor, it looks like we need to have a
little talk...when you have a model railroad
you are going to have the need to solder often.
Soldering is not difficult. There are 2 key factors:
First is tinning...second is flux. You need a 
small soldering 'iron'...about 25 or 30 watts.
Anything bigger is going to be awkward. You'll
also need a small vial of liquid flux or a 'tin'
of paste resin flux. Either works. Flux is a sort of 'enabler' for the
flow of solder. You'll want to buy resin core
solder. Then do some practice. Have some
wire, and small pieces of metal such as from
a tin can. You dab flux on the wire tip, and also
a drop of flux on the metal, Then
touch the solder with the iron so that there is
a small drop on the tip...take this to the metal
and press the solder into the flux. Then do the same
with the wire. This process is called 'tinning'.
Once solder adheres to both, get another
drop of solder on the iron tip and while holding
the wire to the metal press the wire lightly
with the iron tip.
You'll see the solder flow pull the iron away and
watch as the joint cools in seconds and 'sets'. 
For a test of 'hold' tug lightly on the wire.

That's all there is to it. Just practice a few
times and you'll get the hang of it. 

Then solder the wires on those toggle lugs.

Don


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## REdington (Aug 20, 2018)

I have to agree with Don on learning how to solder. There is so much soldering to do around a layout. I will suggest you get a good quality iron with replaceable tip. I started with a cheap Radio Shack 25 watt in the late '60's, as that was I could afford. While learning how to solder track feeders, block switches and other things, I ruined the tip in a few weeks and had to buy a whole new iron. Now I have Weller's (2,25 watt, a 30 watt) that all take the same tip, to work around the layout. I also have a digital Hako that is used at the bench. I use the 25 watt for almost everything on the layout.
Also get rosin core solder that made of lead, instead of the crappy lead free. Lead free doesn't flow as well as lead solder does and will make it easier to learn so solder (it melts at a lower temp than lead free). 

There are lots of youtube videos that will show you how.


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## Steve on Cattail Creek (11 mo ago)

DonR said:


> Well, Conductor, it looks like we need to have a
> little talk...when you have a model railroad
> you are going to have the need to solder often.
> Soldering is not difficult. There are 2 key factors:
> ...


Don, I hate to disabuse you, but I've been 'practicing' for 60 years, and I _still_ consider myself crap at soldering. Oh, I've gotten better and am now at least adequate, but I've never been able to reliably tin any of the various soldering guns and irons I've had over the years. Some seem to have the magic touch right out of the box, while there's a group of us who just can't seem to make it all work reliably, no matter what we do. Your advice is all good, but some of us just don't take as well to the skill. I nearly gave up on a project recently when I found out that the only way to connect the required LED strips was to solder four leads on four circuit board tabs on each half-inch wide end of two LED strips (that's _16_ delicate connections!). I somehow managed the task without melting the board or cross-connecting the tabs, but boy, I was a wreck by the end! Just sayin' . . . 

Oh, and I think those crimp connectors would be the better solution anyway, if they'll fit over the lugs. Much easier to disconnect than soldered connections . . .


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## Jscullans (Jul 8, 2019)

I would personally solder them like most everyone else has said but to me it looks like a pin you would find inside of an automotive style connector like a metripak connector. Not knowing exact dimensions I can’t help a whole lot but I can guess at a size and get you a part number that you could have a hyster dealer order. The next issue you would run into is having the proper crimping tool so the connector doesn’t fall straight off the wire. I generally solder the pins on the wires then add them to the connectors but if you’re not good at soldering then that’s not a good way to go either


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

The picture of the switch is a little fuzzy, but I think I see a lug with hole for the wire on them, hence saying they are solder lugs. Like I said a female spade lug may work but solder is the proper way to make the connection. Try soldering again, but make sure you get flux for electronics! Not plumbers acid flux!!!! I use a bottle of liquid flux that comes with a little brush on the cap. Get some good solder for electronics but stay away from anything with silver in it, use multi core 60/40 lead solder. You can get a small toothbrush like thing with brass bristles to help clean stuff and a one of those brass iron cleaners (all at amazon) to keep the tip clean. Generally you don't need flux but its a godsend when you do!

You don't need much solder, heat the part, touch the solder to it and your done tinning. Tin both wire and lug on the switch, then push the wire thru the hole and warp it around the pin (a quick u bend will do) and touch the iron to whole shebang then a touch of solder and you done.

Yes connectors are nice and I generally use short wires and immediately go to a connector, usually 0.1" crimps (see www.Polou.com for .1" crimps and the $30 to $40 crimping tool) (a reason why you may not want to do this!).

If you need connectors that are for power (not signals) the try Anderson power poles. Again you will need the proper crimp tool, but these are really nice delivering power to your layout but may be a little expensive.

Another connector you can use are Wago's. They make a lighting connector that is ideal for daisy chaining a bus with feeders going to the track. These do not require any crimping!


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## rrman987 (Aug 29, 2021)

I just use good quality rosin flux core tin/lead solder. Comes in various diameters. The newer multi metal soler wire uses higher tip temperature and for me harder to get a good shiny connection. I just wash my hands after handling the lead solder and have a small fan to pull the solder smoke away from me. But I have been soldering stuff since I was 7 YO and before I knew how dangerous lead was and smoke. But hey, I have made it to 75, with no prob.......


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Conductor

Your public has spoken. Thou shalt learn to solder.
We've all been thru the cold joints, melted
track ties and burned wire insulation. It's part of
the game. But we did it. You can to...we are
depending on you.

Don


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

Remember, solder will flow towards the heat. Put the tip of the soldering iron on the underside of the part, heat it for a few seconds, and touch the solder to the top of the part. Once the solder flows remove the soldering iron.


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## Conductorkev (Nov 5, 2021)

I'll try when I get a new iron I ordered in. My previous small tip one broke and all I have is a gun type which is too big for this job.


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## OilValleyRy (Oct 3, 2021)

kilowatt62 said:


> “Quick disconnect” crimp style connectors. These are what I had in mind in my previous post.
> A quick search on parts express dotcom revealed these.
> View attachment 594323
> 
> View attachment 594322


I vote for these. Commonly called Sta-Kons. Although you need crimping pliers, Sta-kon pliers have jaws that include cutters suitable for 12AWG etc, in addition to two different size crimpers in the jaws.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

The gun type 'iron' takes a sec to get hot. That 
sec can be a trouble maker. The always hot true iron is the
best for layout purposes.

Don


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## Richard Sappelli (1 mo ago)

Conductorkev said:


> I can't seem to find any connectors for these mini toggles the smallest that home depot or lowes has just do not stay on. So I search for some on fleabay and I get everything but when I am searching for mini female connectors. If anyone knows a place I can get some connectors for the below pic of the toggle below that will actually stay on it would be much appreciated.
> 
> View attachment 594305


The type of connectors ou are looking for are called spade connectors. Check with an electronic place such as:All electronics corp in Ca. They have a lot of stuff such as the connectors you need. rjs.


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## kilowatt62 (Aug 18, 2019)

The top photo, spade lug connectors.
The bottom photo, quick disconnects. Female shown.


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## Conductorkev (Nov 5, 2021)

kilowatt62 said:


> View attachment 594732
> 
> View attachment 594733
> 
> ...



Ya already got some of the ones you shown ar the bottom. Thry working I have to slightly crimp the end so thry fit on tightly. I just couldn't think of the name for them to search to buy. When I put female connectors I got a billion things I wasn't searching for lol.


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## SF Gal (11 mo ago)

I would also use Non-Insulated Butt Connectors Terminal for the application. Once crimped to the solder post, you have a hole to insert a wire to crimp on....


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