# How deep (wide) is your railroad table top?



## Mushtang (Aug 27, 2020)

I have a room above my garage that I plan on using for a model train room. The short term plan is to build out a section of table top along one wall and just run the trains for a while on the plywood surface, or maybe buy some foam and use that for a while until I learn enough and I'm ready to expand. 

Eventually, if I stick with the hobby long enough (and I've just invested about $700 in a locomotive, train cars, some track, and a DCC controller so I'd better) I'll want to build out 3 sides of the room and have a large U shape to have the track run around on.

Planning for the future I want to build the first section as deep as the rest of the table will be. The room is a little over 10' wide, which will allow 4' deep surfaces and plenty of room to walk in between. But I also see that I can't easily reach to the back of a 4' wide table. 

Doing a bit of testing it seems like 3' is my limit for being able to easily reach and be able to work on something (place landscaping, buildings, track, etc.). If I need to solder wire onto track I don't think I can even do that, but there's work arounds for those kinds of things. But 3' deep tables will leave 4' of space between the opposite tables which I know I'll look at as wasted space. Perhaps a few bumps outs further than 3' here and there, not sure how to maximize usage of the space yet.

So I thought I'd ask in here if there was a standard depth of work surface that people use in their homes? Maybe I'm thinking too far ahead but the only thing I can do with this hobby while I wait on my stuff to be delivered is to try and make plans and learn.

Please post the depth of your surface and if it's deeper than 3' explain how you deal with the reach. Pictures would be great too.


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## Fire21 (Mar 9, 2014)

Mine is on a 4x8 plywood sheet with foam on top. I have it mounted on wheels so I can pull it away from the wall for access to the back side...4 feet is way too deep to try reaching across unless you're an NBA player. I think 3 feet would be a long stretch, so something less than that would be my recommendation on a permanently-mounted layout.


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## briangcc (Oct 11, 2012)

That depends on how high off the ground you’re making it. I have some sections on my basement layout that are 4’ deep. But I’m also 29” off the ground so I can reach and those that I can’t from the front I have access to from behind. 

Mine’s 14’x14’ roughly in a corner of my basement. Wiring IS a challenge at this table height....I don’t recommend that unless you have a family member who’s a very good chiropractor!


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## briangcc (Oct 11, 2012)

This was several months back. To the right is a 4’ deep section and as you can see I can access it from either side of the layout.

IF needed, my benchwork will support me climbing on it - already did that to lay track. You can check out my layout build in the O scale section of the forums.


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## Mark VerMurlen (Aug 15, 2015)

I'm fairly tall, but my maximum depth that I can work on detail would be limited to about 24 inches. You shouldn't cram as much as you can into your room. You can also make your layout look much deeper and richer by using a good background on the walls. Rather than having multiple rows of buildings, you can have one row of buildings and a background that includes many more that gives the illusion of much greater depth.


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## briangcc (Oct 11, 2012)

Different vantage point, further along in track laying. Picture in the post above this one was taken standing right about where the partial red brick building is....next to the blue house in right side/corner...


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

You are correct to plan a 'temporary' 'test' layout to see how it works for you. Put the
benchwork together with screws and bolts so WHEN you want to make changes you
can easily take it apart and use the same materials in a new plan..

Going with a modular benchwork system is another way of getting something started
but that can easily be changed by moving and realigning the modules. I made module
frames of 1 X 3 (or 4 pine,,,the frames were of various shapes and sizes...screwed
together...legs were 2 1X3s screwed together as an L and attached in the cornesr of
the frames for stability. After assembled the modules are bolted together. To make
changes just unbolt and rearrange or add to. Thjis also helpful if you must move
to another home.

The major factor when determining the depth or width of layout benchwok is the radius of
the track curves you'll use. 22' inch radius will just barely fit on a 4 foot width...and you need
that radius or grearter is you plan on running the big new 6 wheel truck diesels or big steamers.
If at all possible increase the width to 5 feet and you can have a radius that most anything will
run on smoothly.

Don


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## Mushtang (Aug 27, 2020)

DonR said:


> I made module frames...


Let me ask a question that most people here probably already know, and this is taking my own thread off topic but only slightly... if you have module frames do you mean just modular prior to laying track, or can you easily remove a module with the track on it and put it back?

If with track, how do you get the tracks lined up exactly when you put the module back in place? It seems like a good way to get derailed trains so I'm guessing it's only for moving the modules prior to laying track.


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## Mark VerMurlen (Aug 15, 2015)

What I did on my layout is build it in modules that are bolted together. So all the benchwork and sub-roadbed is segmented and could be taken apart. I also used automotive type multi-pin electrical connectors at module junctions so that my wiring harness can be separated easily. However, when laying the track, I didn't line up track joints with the module boundaries, so at that point, my railroad can no longer be taken apart without having to lift up portions of the track. I also didn't want the seams to show, so my top-most layer of landscaping also covers over the joints. If I ever need to move the layout, there will be a moderate amount of work to take it apart and reassemble it. That was the choice I made for myself.

I have been to model train shows where people bring modular layouts that they take down and setup frequently. What I've seen them do is have a small 4 - 6 inch "loose" piece of track that spans across the modules. This remedies any slight misalignment in modules that could affect the track. They rely on the rail joiners to mechanically keep the track together (the benchwork is of course bolted together). They don't ballast the loose track pieces. So there is a definite seam that you can see in the landscaping and the unballasted track is also a bit of a visible distraction.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

So, teo answers to two questions:

1) Maximum width should be no wider than you can reach. It's ok to have a wider space in the middle. You can make a few bumpouts into that center space, but keep the reach manageable, and don't put anything that you need to reach frequently (like track) near the walls in those locations.

2) Unless you do plan to move the layout, don't worry about tying them together with the rails. Modules is really more about ease of construction unless you really do need to make it portable. If so, leave a small gap in your track of about 2" at the joints. Put rail joiners on the connecting tracks, and cut off the inside edges of the joiners so they make a kind of cradle to hold the connecting piece. You can put a little loose ballast on that section if you want. Use metal sleeve and peg connectors to keep things aligned.


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## Spence (Oct 15, 2015)

Mine is 4’ high & 4’ wide. I can reach anywhere on the layout with my Topside Creeper.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

The modeler has an option as to whether the track moves with the module if taken apart. The large clubs have huge layouts
consisting of many modules with the track and some detailing permanently attached. These are regularly taken apart so they
can be put together at a train show. Where the modules abut there is a 'loose' section of track that spans the joint. This
is removed when the layout is taken apart. Plugs and jacks between modules make it easy to maintain the movable
electrical system.

My room size layout which consisted of a number of modules was not intended to be moved. So I simply covered the
module frames with large sheets of plywood upon which the tracks and other scenery were built. The wirihg,
in cables was permanent. No plugs and jacks were used.

I found the module system made construction simple. Because of the house floor plan it was not
practical to bring long lumber into the train room. I did all of the module construction on my carport. It was
easy to carry the frames. The legs were attached as the benchwork was assembled.
When I later sold the layout the buyer had only to unscrew and remove the top sheets, then unbolt
the frames. It made it easy to load the layout into his truck.

So you would decide between the above depending on your future 'plans'.

Don


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## Lee Willis (Jan 1, 2014)

Ten feet. I have a popup hatch from underbeath in the middle, so I can reach anywhere, but its pain to get in there.


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## Chaostrain (Jan 27, 2015)

My is two sections of 2.5 feet wide each for a total of 5 feet wide when put together. It is also only 2.5 feet hight. It's a walk around and portable. You'll get many size suggestions. Use them as a good starting point but take the time to find what works best for you. We aren't all the same size in our body, leg, and arm lengths.


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## Stumpy (Mar 19, 2013)

When building an L or U shaped layout against the wall(s) remember your geometry.

The benchwork of my L-shaped layout is 44" deep. So the hypotenuse of the right triangle (indicated by the red line in the pic) is 63". 










As a result I have two sections that can be lifted out in the event I need "emergency" access. Although, as with Mark above, it would be disruptive to the landscaping.

Prior to filling in those access holes many hours were spent standing in them working on the parts of the layout that are unreachable from the outside edge.

First lift out

Second lift out 1
Second lift out 2

Track plan (in the beginning)


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Most of mine is less than three feet from access from one side or the other. The exception is along the wall, there's places where I'll be crawling around on the layout, and I don't plan on having a lot of stuff I have to access back there. 

I have the lift-out hatch in the middle of the near side, that part is 10.5' wide, the far side is 12.5' wide but has the cutout that's accessible through the lift bridge. The length from this vantage point to the other end is a little over 23 feet. All the curves will be between O96 to O72. The stub track on this end is my maintenance access, it's where I put stuff on from the shop for a test run.










This is the current plan, it's a large folded dogbone with three extra loops for running or parking. Not shown is the 8-track yard joined at the top left with the two tracks off the edge.


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## Stumpy (Mar 19, 2013)

That's quite large, John.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

Did you consider replacing the columns with a beam?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Stumpy said:


> That's quite large, John.


Biggest one I've done personally, and almost certainly the biggest one I'll ever do. 



Lemonhawk said:


> Did you consider replacing the columns with a beam?


Not really, given the way they're set in the floor I'd have had to do some significant repairs to carpet and wood flooring, looked like too much work. Besides, I think the columns are kinda' cool, still figuring what to do with them. FWIW, they're actually only cosmetic as it turns out, the house is truss construction and the columns are not structural. I believe the one on the left may get a road or track through it for fun.


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## traction fan (Oct 5, 2014)

Mushtang said:


> I have a room above my garage that I plan on using for a model train room. The short term plan is to build out a section of table top along one wall and just run the trains for a while on the plywood surface, or maybe buy some foam and use that for a while until I learn enough and I'm ready to expand.
> 
> Eventually, if I stick with the hobby long enough (and I've just invested about $700 in a locomotive, train cars, some track, and a DCC controller so I'd better) I'll want to build out 3 sides of the room and have a large U shape to have the track run around on.
> 
> ...



Mushtang;

My layout is sectional. (highly recommended) My standard section is sixteen inches deep, four feet long, and sixteen inches high. The height dimension comes into play because my layout is a bookshelf design, with a top shelf above the railroad. (See first photo.) My layout is N-scale, but even N-scale needs more than 16" of depth to turn around in. So, I have deeper sections at each end for the return loops. These are three feet deep and four feet long. The space in between tables that you have planned is not "wasted" at all. You and any visitors/operators need someplace to stand or sit. Also real railroads are extremely long, (many miles) compared to their very modest width (or "depth") of about 100' in most places, so filling as many square feet as possible with table, track, structures and scenery, may make the shape of your railroad unrealistic, and definitely will make it very expensive! Sometimes less really is more. Also a layout doesn't actually need to be deep, in order to look deep. As an example, the section of my layout in the second photo is 16" deep at the top shelf and only 8" deep at the bottom. I think it looks considerably deeper than 8" or even 16" though!

It sounds like you're new to model railroading. The files attached below are some that I wrote for new modelers planning their first layout 

Good Luck & Have Fun!

Traction Fan 🙂


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## bewhole (Dec 31, 2016)

I believe the one on the left may get a road or track through it for fun. :D
[/QUOTE said:


> Yes cut a "Archway" thru it then paint it to look like a redwood tree. Put some small buildings around to make it look like a tourist attraction.


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