# sidetrack



## LNM (Feb 28, 2015)

How do I cut the power to a sidetrack so I can use another train that is on a second sidetrack but on the same transformer. Obviously if power is not cut to the sidetracks both trains will try to run at the same time. 

Thanks
lnm


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## johnfl68 (Feb 1, 2015)

You can put a DPDT (double pull double throw) switch on each side track.

Double check to make sure the switch connections are what they normally are, a meter with continuity checker is your friend.

Normally they will have 6 connections in a 2x3 configuration:

A1 A2

C1 C2

B1 B2


C1 and C2 are separate commons. C1 will switch between A1 and B1, C2 will switch between A2 and B2. Both will switch at the same time.

Connect your power supply leads to C1 and C2
Connect your side track leads to A1 and A2
Connect nothing to B1 and B2

When the switch is thrown to the A side, the track will be active.
When the switch is thrown to the B side, the track will be inactive.

Repeat for additional side tracks with additional switches.

John


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

First, if you want to run only one train at a time, you can use just one transformer. If you want to run both trains at the same time, you must have two transformers -- one for each train.

Second, you need to electrically isolate the siding from the main track. This is usually done by inserting rubber or plastic insulated rail joiners between the siding and the main track.

Assuming that you have only one transformer, each track section will need a feed from the transformer. Now you need two toggle switches that turn the power on and off in the two sections, independently. (You will need power to both sections in order to move a train onto the siding from the main track and vice versa.)

If you have two transformers, this gets complicated pretty quickly. There are books and websites that explain how to wire blocks (as they are called). (P.S. John's post above -- which came in right before mine explains the basics of the block system.)

All of this assumes that you are running a simple DC system. If you have a DCC system (where you have computer chips in your locomotives and a control system that talks to them), the wiring is simpler.

I know very little about DCC. If you have a DCC system, let us know, and someone else will help you.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

LNM said:


> How do I cut the power to a sidetrack so I can use another train that is on a second sidetrack but on the same transformer. Obviously if power is not cut to the sidetracks both trains will try to run at the same time.
> 
> Thanks
> lnm


A toggle switch.
Or for a cheaper option just buy some cheap wall light switches that are used in a house.

What scale are you doing?


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Your doing O right?

Depending on your transformer you can run 2 trains off of it.
Some will run 4 trains.

Just hook toggles up or the house light switches which are cheaper. Lighted toggles are nice so you know if the sidings are on or off.
If you have lighted bumpers on each siding that will let you know also, that is what I do, I have lighted bumpers on the sidings.

A lot will assume you are running HO, that is why it is good to put the question in the right forum (O) or include your scale under your name.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

John, I read your post above. Can you explain your thinking on using a DPDT switch, rather than just a simple single pole, with the track wired to a common ground? Pros/cons of each?

I used single poles with my setup. I'm not sure I understand the merit of a DPDT.

Thanks,

TJ


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

This thread got confusing mostly because we don't know for certain
what scale you are running.

If 3 rail 0 gauge:

Insert insulated pin in middle rail between 'side track' and turnout.
Connect power feed to middle rail through a simple on/off switch,
that is fed by the transformer middle rail terminal.

If 2 rail N or HO gauge:

Use insulated joiner on one rail between 'side track' and turnout.
Connect power feed to that isolated rail through a simple on/off
switch that is fed by the power pack track terminal connected
to the same rail on the main line.

if you have more than one 'side track' treat each per above.

If I still have not understood your question, please re-state it.

Don


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

DonR said:


> This thread got confusing mostly because we don't know for certain
> what scale you are running.
> 
> If 3 rail 0 gauge:
> ...


Thanks Don, I forgot all about mentioning the insulating pin.
They ought to make it mandatory to at least add a scale under your name.
I knew I was forgetting something. 

But for someone who does more then one scale, then placed into the correct forum would be nice.

It takes a lot of guessing away. 

Where is the OP?:dunno: 
Took a nap? 

It is a beee-utifull day here in Jersey, I wish it would stay this way all year!:smokin::thumbsup:


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## LNM (Feb 28, 2015)

Sorry did not let you know what gauge I have. I am running O gauge. Thanks for all the input. I can make this work now.

Thanks
lnm


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

LNM said:


> Sorry did not let you know what gauge I have. I am running O gauge. Thanks for all the input. I can make this work now.
> 
> Thanks
> lnm


Welcome back.

Are you using tube track?
If so you can use the lockons for each section, don't forget an insulating pin in the middle tube.
Or you can just solder the wires underneath into the crack of the tube if you want.

Toggle switches or like I said common house light switches are cheaper and will work. Though they take up a little more room on your control panel.
Lighted switches are good to let you know if they are on or off. I like using the lighted bumpers.

What transformer do you have?


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## johnfl68 (Feb 1, 2015)

TJ:

Many transformers just say DC or TRACK, and do not specify which of the 2 terminals is ground.

In my opinion, using a DPDT Switch would be safer, by disconnecting both from the rails, as it would be less likely to have the potential to short out with something, or through yourself, in the event of accidental contact with the rails.

Using a Single Pole switch does work, but may leave the potential for one rail to still be live, with potential voltage going through an object or yourself to ground.

I am not saying that the other way is wrong, just different.

John


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## Sparky (Apr 12, 2015)

Whats going on?:eyes:


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

johnfl68 said:


> TJ:
> 
> Many transformers just say DC or TRACK, and do not specify which of the 2 terminals is ground.
> 
> ...


Your right, but when using an AC transformer you don't have to worry about that.
A single pole switch would be fine. Along with the insulating pin when it is off there is no chance of anything happening. 
Even if it is accidentally left on, the only thing that would happen is that the train parked on the siding would start to move when you power up the throttle.

I use toggle switches, but a box of wall light switches are cheaper to use.
A lighted toggle switch lets you know the siding is in the powered position. 
I use lighted bumpers, but a lighted toggle and the lighted bumpers would have been better. 
Some of the bumpers are out of view when you start adding other things to the table.

A lighted toggle switch on the control board would have been better for a visual warning.
Toggle switches are a little more expensive, but take up less room on the control board.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Sparky said:


> bye:goofball:





Sparky said:


> is any one there





Sparky said:


> ok, bye now:thumbsup:





What?
Are you trying to get your post count up?:goofball:

We are all here.........do you need some kind of *"help"*? 

Some *"help"* that you may need can't be found on this site, but there are specific forum sites for them.
Let me know if you want me to link some? :smokin:


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## Sparky (Apr 12, 2015)

how much can my train pull


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## Old_Hobo (Feb 20, 2014)

What do you mean by train?

Don't you mean "how much train can my locomotive pull?


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Sparky

We have to know what scale you are using and what locomotive
you are asking about.

Some locomotives can pull more cars than others. There is no
general answer.

Don


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## Sparky (Apr 12, 2015)

i have the echo valley express HO scale


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I don't have that Echo Valley Bachmann DCC steam loco, but I would toss out a guess that it
can handle 10 or so cars, maybe more. I have Bachmann DCC diesels. They
can easily pull 10 to 15 cars depending on the number of metal wheel cars
are in the train. Metal wheels run better than the typical plastic wheels that
usually come on train sets.

Don


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## Sparky (Apr 12, 2015)

oh, ok, one time mine was going on a turnout and there was a spark and the light flashed so i pulled the plug, it was close


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## Sparky (Apr 12, 2015)

i thought it was going to explode, but it didn't


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## Sparky (Apr 12, 2015)

Hello?:eyes:


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Sounds like a derailment might have caused sparking,
not unusual. Just turn power off, put the train back on
the track and restore power.

Sometimes there is sparking when metal wheels cross the
gaps in the turnout rails. Akso a normal event on
a model railroad.

What scale are you running?

Don


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Sparky said:


> Hello?:eyes:


This isn't a chat room where everyone is waiting with baited breath for the next comment. It's a Bulletin Board where folks may only visit once or twice a day. You have to have some patience if you expect a reply.


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## Sparky (Apr 12, 2015)

don, HO, gun runner john, Ok


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

The Bachmann DCC controller will automatically sense a
short circuit. The RED LEDs will flash, and the trains will
come to a halt.

Did that not happen when the spark you saw took place?

It is not unusual for loco wheels to spark when
negotiating a turnout but they normally don't
shut down the system.

Do you have it running again?

Don


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## Sparky (Apr 12, 2015)

Yes, I have it running again.


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## Sparky (Apr 12, 2015)




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## Sparky (Apr 12, 2015)

And that did happen with the lights on the controller


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## Sparky (Apr 12, 2015)

I am glad it did not break.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Sparky said:


> I am glad it did not break.



Can't see what it says in the yellow, I fixed.


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## Sparky (Apr 12, 2015)

OOPS!:lol_hitting:


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## Sparky (Apr 12, 2015)

i am going to have a caboose restaurant!







, Sounds Cool Dosn't It


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## Sparky (Apr 12, 2015)

The 8th post i didn't post someone is messing with my account.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

And you suddenly pull this up and make this declaration more than 2 and a half years later?

Something is being messed with, all right, but it's not your account.


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## Sparky (Apr 12, 2015)

I didn't know because I can remember the important things we talk about on here so I don't usually have to go back and look.


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## Krieglok (Sep 7, 2013)

Never mind....


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## Sparky (Apr 12, 2015)

I mean page 3 post 8.


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## Waddy (Dec 18, 2014)

LNM said:


> How do I cut the power to a sidetrack so I can use another train that is on a second sidetrack but on the same transformer. Obviously if power is not cut to the sidetracks both trains will try to run at the same time.
> 
> Thanks
> lnm


Couldn't you just install a single pole toggle switch in the hot side wiring at the appropriate point, and run it to wherever is right for you to get at easily?


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Waddy said:


> Couldn't you just install a single pole toggle switch in the hot side wiring at the appropriate point, and run it to wherever is right for you to get at easily?


Sure, but considering that the OP hasn't been on the forum in more than 2 years, I doubt this suggestion will do him much good.


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## Waddy (Dec 18, 2014)

That will teach me to pay closer attention to details


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