# Lionel 1689E Repair Parts Source?



## Southern Tier (Feb 8, 2013)

After years in storage I dug the old American Flyer out this year and decided to put it up. Well, as you might guess one thing led to another and I found myself making repairs and planning a new layout.

Dad started us out in the early 50's. It began with his old train a 1689E Lionel, the real subject of this post. I still have this set and except for the mechanical part of the engine it is in pretty good shape. Dad was a Jr. and the V. is now 14. His father the IV loves family heirlooms and I would love to retore the 1689E for them.

The problem: the reduction gear on the motor is badly worn and several cogs on the drive wheel have been broken off. The ID plate is missing; but from what I have seen there isn't a lot of information on them to begin with. I almost bought a 1688 on Ebay thinking I could probably swap the motor and drive wheel; but I wasn't sure so dropped out of the auction.

That is when I started looking for a forum and found you guys. If you have any advice I'd love to hear it. Thanks.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Welcome to the forum.  I changed the title to more accurately reflect what you're looking for, it should help in finding it.

The "tin men" should be along soon and will have lots of suggestions.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

I have two 1689e threads. take a close look at the motors. I am not sure id-f they are original or a FIT replacement. They do work. You can search the 1668 and 1688 to virw pictures of their motors too. For parts just google jeff the train tender and ask him. If there are differences, you may want to post pictures here to resolve any issues first.

1689e


more 1689e


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## Southern Tier (Feb 8, 2013)

Thanks T-Man. I have read those posts and got some really good tips and ideas; especially the stripping and painting portions. Nice to know it's not sacreligous to repaint antique trains!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

We aren't exactly a religious bunch when it comes to modifications of model trains.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

There are two fundamental different types of motors in 1688's. Early ones had the "Lionel Jr' style of motor ... metal sideplates, and a black fiber pickup plate with pickup shoes.

Later 1688's had a different motor with a black plastic/bakelite base.

I think most 1689's used the Lionel Jr style motor. Look in my "Lionel 1681" threads, and you'll see this described / torn-apart / rebuilt in detail.

You can replace the mid reduction gear by grinding off the "T-head" of the stud that it spins on. The flanges of the wheel will hold the new gear in place.

If need be, you can replace the stud itself, but that warrants a bit more work. Detailed info here, from posts 22 through 51 ...

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?p=63477&postcount=22

Here's my first 1681E / Lionel Jr project. You can see on this one how the gear has already been replaced by grinding away the stud head. The gear just "floats" underneath the wheel flanges. Works just fine.

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?p=28210&postcount=34

Jeff Kane at the Train Tender will have the gear.

Regards,

TJ


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## Southern Tier (Feb 8, 2013)

*Update*

Hey Guys, Time for an update.

Starting to see a light at the end of the tunnel, hopefully the light from my old 1689E. I shoulda taken pictures; but I'm more the tear into it first kinda guy. It looked like rd's from '1689e on the work bench', not quite as rough and no rust; but I decided to paint. Thank god antique patina is not revered in this hobby! Painting is done for now. Would like to pin stripe the loco but detail painting not my forte; maybe I'll give the marker pen approach a try.

I rewired the engine and lubed, cleaned the fingers on the e-unit, motor runs fine. Years ago when we got a second train for the AF layout, yes I'm really an S gauger, the old girl got relegated to under the Christmas tree. When problems arose with the reverse Dad cut off the lever so we boys couldn't mess with it. When the transformer started to smell, probably about 1957 she got packed away until now. So I just got a new lever from Jeff at traintender and will replace that before the loco goes back together.

Tender got new paint too and whistle got worked over as well. One of the bend over clips that held the points in place broke so I found a used relay and installed that. I've been using my spare AF transformer as a tester; but bought a used 1033 and am ready to hook it up. Threw away that old house burner we originally had, a 1042 I believe! Except for the shell the tender is all back together and ready for a test with the 1033.

*Now my problem:* I'm not sure how to wire up the 1033 to operate this old gal. I know the track has to be live for whistle to to work. I only have the original terminal and as far as I know that is all we ever had so I'm guessing that is all I need. Terminal is marked 1&2, 1 being the middle rail, 2 being the outside rail. I have the service manual pdf for the 1033, thank you Gun, but no instructions on wiring. 

Would someone help me out? Thanks!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The U post on the 1033 goes to the center rail, and the A post goes to the outside rail.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

You can get pinstripe decals you know, all different colors and sizes.


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Dry-transfer pinstripes from Woodland Scenics, too.


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## Southern Tier (Feb 8, 2013)

Gun, thanks for the wiring tip. I tested the tender, had inconsistent results so may have to take it apart again. I did have a coil wire break away from the relay unit when I pulled the shell off, so maybe it was bad to begin with. Oh well, there's always tomorrow.

Big Ed & tj, thanks for the decal advice, may get into that on some AF rolling stock I'm gonna refurbish. On the 1689E I wanted to follow the raised lines on the loco. May try something else, heck a can of black spray paint goes a long ways, can cover up my experiments for a while yet!

Anybody got any experience with decal paper and printer?


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## rdmtgm (Nov 25, 2011)

I bought some "Avery" clear sticker project paper at office max to try and make some decals. It is expensive,it is not clear, and it does not stick I have seen some of the other guys use decal paper they bought online with good results. I am sure you will hear from them.
Randy


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

One point of note with the printable decal paper ... you can't print the color white.

I believe you can also buy white (rather than clear) decal paper, and then print on that. But you won't have the clear margins like you would with normal wet-transfer decals.

TJ


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## Southern Tier (Feb 8, 2013)

*Progress to Date*

Here is the progress as of today, long way to go! These are not great pictures.

Basic painting is done; I may experiment with detailing the raised outlines on the loco. Handrails not reinstalled and none of the trim pieces are fastened in case I have to paint again! 

Whistle in the tender has been checked, the motor spins but no fast enough to whistle. If I direct wire to ground and upper brush it whistles loud. So I'm thinkin maybe the disk in the transformer needs updating to a diode. Any thoughts?

I have new stick-on nameplates for both loco and tender but I'm torn between leaving the originals on, or putting the new ones on. Opinions?

I may freshen up the black body parts of the rolling stock; but won't touch the the other body parts.

Does anybody recognize the beacon? I can't find it anywhere. I'm planning to repaint and rewire. I would like to replace the heads; but have no clue where I might get them.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Southern Tier said:


> Does anybody recognize the beacon? I can't find it anywhere. I'm planning to repaint and rewire. I would like to replace the heads; but have no clue where I might get them.


That is a Marx #416 flood light tower. 1938 ish?

It looks like they put the top base upside down in this picture?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I don't see what you're talking about Ed, the base looks fine to me.


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## Southern Tier (Feb 8, 2013)

*Beacon*

Thanks Ed! Now that I know what it is, I looked on Ebay and there are several. And two different styles, one has circular cross members and the other is like ours. No parts; but my lamps are in about the same condition as the others so I'm just going to do what I can with the ones I have.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Sometimes the light housing will clean up with a dremel. I have one that I painted silver because the crome had flaked off. It dosent look great up close but at a distance on the layout it's perfect.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

You can also buy chrome paint, might come up close.


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## Southern Tier (Feb 8, 2013)

After seeing the ones on Ebay I decided to try and paint the lamps. Just so happens I have some chrome paint left from another project. And a dremel, well the Harbor Freight version; but it works. Also got some paint pens today; I see another pin striping adventure in the works!


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Southern Tier said:


> Thanks Ed! Now that I know what it is, I looked on Ebay and there are several. And two different styles, one has circular cross members and the other is like ours. No parts; but my lamps are in about the same condition as the others so I'm just going to do what I can with the ones I have.


John, I guess it does look right, in the one picture something looked odd, that was repainted the is for sure. I must have looked too fast as I had to get out the door and go somewhere.

The ones with the circles in the framework they started in the 40's, and continued into the 60's.
The price on these have been creeping up, I watch them, I have a few.
I like them, if you want there is a thread on adding Led's on them I saw somewhere I could probably dig up for you.


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## Southern Tier (Feb 8, 2013)

LEDs would be great, I hadn't thought of that. If you think you can find the thread that would be super. Thanks!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

It's not a big issue to add LED's to these, the biggest issue is selecting an LED that is wide angle so you'll get light over a large area.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Southern Tier said:


> LEDs would be great, I hadn't thought of that. If you think you can find the thread that would be super. Thanks!


Over here,


http://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/displayForumTopic/content/13537903703858971/reply/lastReply


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## Southern Tier (Feb 8, 2013)

big ed said:


> Over here,
> 
> 
> http://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/displayForumTopic/content/13537903703858971/reply/lastReply



Wow, nice tip! Thanks. Working with resitors will be new for me, but hey, never too old to learn a new trick. And I think surgery is needed on my transformer too.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Southern Tier said:


> Wow, nice tip! Thanks. Working with resitors will be new for me, but hey, never too old to learn a new trick. And I think surgery is needed on my transformer too.


Me too, gunnrunner drools over stuff like that, you need help ask him.


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## Southern Tier (Feb 8, 2013)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> It's not a big issue to add LED's to these, the biggest issue is selecting an LED that is wide angle so you'll get light over a large area.


Guilty of not knowing alot about LEDs or resitors. How do you find out about the dispersion of the light of an LED; is there a number you look at in the specs? Thanks!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Truthfully, while you can read the specifications to get an idea, the only real way is to have one in hand and test it. Liars write specifications in many cases. 

The ones in the thread Ed referenced are a good starting point, since someone has already tested those and found them suitable for floodlight use.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/50pcs-8mm-0...401?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a6573aee9


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## Southern Tier (Feb 8, 2013)

*A few storms and neglect later.*

My first attempt at weathering. I'm attempting to make the engine and cars look like they belong together. Today I will try adding some rust. Then I will give the tender the same treatment. Comments and suggestions good or bad welcome. I still have Easy Off and black spray paint!

The calm before the storm









A few years later









Old Train


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

You're ADDING rust?!? Lucky you. I've pissed away hours and hours of my life trying to get rid of the stuff! 

TJ


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I'm with tj, but whatever you like. I never weathered anything before so I can't be much help but the stripes looks good.


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## Southern Tier (Feb 8, 2013)

tjcruiser said:


> You're ADDING rust?!?
> TJ


Dern! stuff! Ya can't get rid of it! How well I know. At least this will be the fake kind, just a little for character.


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## Southern Tier (Feb 8, 2013)

sjm9911 said:


> ...but the stripes looks good.


Thanks, they look better with the weathering...covers up the imperfections.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

A little polish compound on those cars and you'd wish you left the engine alone. Just use care around lettering. They should clean right up.:thumbsup:


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## Southern Tier (Feb 8, 2013)

*Polish Compound*



T-Man said:


> A little polish compound on those cars and you'd wish you left the engine alone.


At this point its experimental; I'm not opposed to restripping the engine. And I have another 1689E shell to work with too. 

Tell me more about polishing compound. Any recommendations on a brand? I'd be very conservative about using any abrasive.

I do have some Dri Wash I use on my motorcycle...that might work.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

Polishing is very fine compared to a rubbing compound. Any car section should have it. I use a an acrylic floor wax after. you just want surface marks to clear up and some dirt. I have practiced on common cars. it is best you can do aside from a complete paint job. I just did a couple of Marx cars.


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## peterbilt379 (Jan 4, 2013)

Caution, parts buyers beware. Stay away from [email protected] aka Justtrains from Sussex N.J. Dennis Waldron is the most rude,sarcastic,obnoxious person you will ever deal with. Do not buy any parts from him. They will send you bent/rusted mismatched parts. When you call him on it he gets rude. If you try to get paypal or the us mail involved he threatens with a libel suit. He is all over Ebay. You should check out his rude remarks to people whos not happy with their purchases.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

I hear you 379, you mentioned this before.
Here, 
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=8090&[email protected]

But you lucked it out as it was only $9 bucks.
No need to have a heart attack over.

Did you put your feelings over on e bay forum?
They do have one just for that, maybe it will make you feel a little better.

How can he "If you try to get paypal or the us mail involved he threatens with a libel suit."

I would have gone ahead with getting a refund. 
How can he threaten you with a libel suit?

Item not as described? Right?


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