# Bachmann DCC conversion, clicking sound



## astrotrain (Jun 22, 2015)

So shockingly enough, I bought a random junky Bachmann 8WD model (Maybe Bachmann Plus?) off of the ebay, and it just worked on the first try converting it to DCC with a BACH-DSL decoder from NCE. I did not test the unit before conversion to DCC, because I have no DC setup. The model is pretty noisy at high speeds. It seems to be properly greased, I did not touch that portion. There is a ticking at low speeds and buzzing at high speeds, but runs great otherwise, almost hilariously so, as it will do the train equivalent of burning rubber before shooting off. It's really responsive.

I have not configured the speeds at all through the CV yet. Is this a mechanical problem, or something that goes away with programming? I ask the latter because googling tells me that the BACH-DSL is supposed to quiet down the DCC-ready Bachmanns.

As an aside, the instructions say to leave two inductors in line between the rail feed and circuit board that are in the DCC-ready models. Mine had no such inductors, but I am pretty sure they are used as filters. How important are these particular inductors? The NCE instructions show the bands in color so I'm sure I can buy a pair of them if I have to, but I won't waste my time if I don't need them.

Is there anything that can be done about this?


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Sounds like some sort of problem with gear train, likely wear. You don't say which model but perhaps someone else on here who has one can comment. I know some of the older models are not the quietest. The decoder would be on its defUlt settings unless you have changed them so the 'responsiveness' may be something to do with the motor, maybe it's been swopped out?

I fail to see how a decoder can quieten down a motor but if that's what some say.......


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## astrotrain (Jun 22, 2015)

Sorry, it's a Bachmann FT/F7/F9 chassis (it came with an F9 shell on it) and is an 8-wheel drive with the tall chassis and two screw mounts for the shell. It maybe a Plus.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I have a Bachmann Spectrum GP30 that I upgraded to DCC with
a Digitrax decoder. The loco is one of the best running, best pulling
and super slow creepers I have.

But it also has the type of noise you mention. It goes from almost
silent when creeping to a higher and higher pitched tick then moan as
speed increases. The truck gear train is perfect, the motor
is perfect, thus, the only remaining possibility are the dog bone
universal joints. I am convinced they are binding to some
degree thus making the reported noise.

If you get very close with the shell off you can pretty well isolate
it to the dog bones. What to do about it? Possibly try realigning
the motor. So far, I'm just ignoring it.

Don


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## astrotrain (Jun 22, 2015)

DonR said:


> I have a Bachmann Spectrum GP30 that I upgraded to DCC with
> a Digitrax decoder. The loco is one of the best running, best pulling
> and super slow creepers I have.
> 
> ...


Wow, you make a really good point, and what you are saying makes sense. I used 2 pieces of electrical tape laid very flat in a double layer to isolate the motor from the frame, but I wonder if it's not thin enough. My F-units are not split frame like a GP30 would be, the motor sits in a cavity.I wonder if I somehow need to get that motor lower than it is, to make sure those dog bones are straight. I guess I will need to work on a better solution to isolating the motor.

As an aside, yes, I've noticed the same, the Bachmann can creep reeeally slow.

My one Question would be, are the dogbones supposed to be greased? They do not appear to be connected to an area that had any before, so I left them alone.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

None of the dogbones on my locos have been lubricated. I suppose
the powder lube could relieve some friction in that U joint. Just might
do the trick. Don't think I'd want to use the 'grease' tho.

Are you sure you must isolate the motor shell from the frame?
If the shell does not contact either motor tab it should
not matter. Use a multimeter set to ohms and put one probe
on a motor tab, the other to the shell, if no reading try the
other tab. If still no reading the shell is insulated from the
tabs so you would not need to isolate it from the frame. You
could remove the tape. That may correct the motor alignment
and hush the ticking.

Don


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