# Embarrassing question....



## Walman (Dec 18, 2011)

Are Sculptamold and Hydrocal the same material chemically? I have used hydrocal for making rocks but was wondering of Sculptamold, other than being a brand name, was actually different. 

Thank you,

Walman


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Know nothing about either of those. I switched to
dry wall paste. It's easy to use, and far less messy.
And it comes ready to use.

Don


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

We use drywall compound, though we get it in the bags and mix it, it's far cheaper that way.


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## ckblum (Nov 28, 2013)

I use sculptamold. It's like a plaster/paper mâché hybrid. I like the texture it gives, you can actually form it into mounds and stuff and against vertical faces without it sagging. I didn't use any rock moulds on my layout, just sculptamold over foam. Plaster cloth only where there was significant gaps in sub terrain. Sculptamold is pretty cheap too. I bought a big bag for $12. Only used about a third on my 2.5x3 layout.


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## rogruth (Mar 6, 2012)

Walman said:


> Are Sculptamold and Hydrocal the same material chemically? I have used hydrocal for making rocks but was wondering of Sculptamold, other than being a brand name, was actually different.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Walman


I do not think they are the same.
I will try to check later.


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## model-a (Jan 20, 2014)

I know you guy's might laugh at me but I did a layout for a guy years ago with real rocks yep he went out and found a couple of buckets of rocks different size some off the tracks right behind his house hot glued them on they looked good and I weighed them and only added about 6 pounds or so. There still on there and he has moved it twice when he moved with know problems.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Walman said:


> Are Sculptamold and Hydrocal the same material chemically? I have used hydrocal for making rocks but was wondering of Sculptamold, other than being a brand name, was actually different.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Walman


No they are different, Hydrocal is basically just a lighter form of plaster. If you have to move the piece or the layout Hydrocal will save you some weight. 

USG makes it. From their site.
Offering twice the compressive strength of plaster, HYDROCAL® white gypsum cement is especially suitable in thin, delicate sections where high green strength is required. Multi-purpose HYDROCAL® white gypsum cement.

Is ideal for both solid and hollow casting of lamp bases, figurines, moldings and general castings.
Offers long workability; setting expansion twice that of molding plaster and pottery plaster.
Has a great value to performance ratio Achieves a stark, white color, making it ideal for accepting colorants.
Sets 25-35 minutes after machine mixing Requires 45 parts water by weight per 100 parts plaster. 

Sculptamold is lighter then both plaster and Hydrocal. Plus with Sculptamold it will adhere to almost anything. Plaster and Hydrocal might break off if you try them on something like glass. Sculptamold won't.

From a Sculptamold seller,
This white, non-toxic, cellulose-based compound combines the best features of clay, plaster, and papier maché.

Sculptamold is lightweight like papier maché, but it does not shrink. It models and casts like clay, and sets up hard like plaster in about 30 minutes. Cast it in molds made of rubber, plastic, plaster, or even sand. It can be worked with tools, or by hand.

While wet, it adheres to almost any clean surface, including glass. It can be applied to an armature, or over any core, without cracking or shrinkage. Apply wet material over dry to add finishing details.

Cure the finished piece by allowing it to air dry for several days. The curing process can be speeded up in a low oven. Sculptamold dries exceptionally white, with a matte finish. Once it is dry, Sculptamold can be sawed, sanded, smoothed, carved, or nailed.

Surfaces can be decorated with any paint. Sculptamold is not waterproof, but a finished piece can be made water resistant with clear lacquer, varnish, or gloss acrylic. Finished pieces are lightweight, but also strong and durable. Sculptamold pieces are shatter and break resistant.

Sculptamold is furnished as a dry powder, and can be prepared easily within minutes by adding water. To prepare, blend approximately two parts Sculptamold with one part water. Mix only an amount that can be used in less than 30 minutes, and clean the mixing container before preparing a new batch, because hardened material acts as a catalyst, speeding the hardening of a new batch. Use a slightly thinner mix for molding and finishing.


I use plaster, plaster cloth, Sculptamold all together but in different spots and for different things.
I also use the premixed hole patching plaster in spots as it is easier and drys quicker then the plaster I mix up.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

model-a said:


> I know you guy's might laugh at me but I did a layout for a guy years ago with real rocks yep he went out and found a couple of buckets of rocks different size some off the tracks right behind his house hot glued them on they looked good and I weighed them and only added about 6 pounds or so. There still on there and he has moved it twice when he moved with know problems.


I know of modelers that do that too.
I have a box of interesting rocks I have found here and there.
Though I only placed a few on the layout so far.

You can't get any more realistic then using real rocks right? :thumbsup:


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## model-a (Jan 20, 2014)

How did you attach them when you did yours Ed.


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## model-a (Jan 20, 2014)

How did you attach them when you did yours Ed.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

model-a said:


> How did you attach them when you did yours Ed.


I have a few odd water smoothed rocks right now laying around.
I picked them up and placed them down in spots, gravity holds them in place.

I do have a box in the garage with any assortment of "cool" rocks I find in my travels.
I have not really used any yet.


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## model-a (Jan 20, 2014)

Gottcha that's kinda the way I did that guy's layout looked pretty good one reason we did that was he just wanted to see how cheap he could do a layout by making as much stuff as possible.


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## raleets (Jan 2, 2011)

I've used a little bit of everything on my layout.
The rocks on the face of my mountain were created using hydrocal with WS rubber molds.
Then the cracks in between the rocks were filled with both hydrocal and sculptamold.
I also have some real rocks scattered about the layout that are glued down with WS cement.
I also used some hydrocal to fill in gaps and spaces between the mountain and the tunnel portals.
I've also used pre-mixed spackling in a tub from Home Depot to sculpt the sides and bottom of my river bank.
The top of my mountain was made with plaster cloth spread over cardboard strips.
Lots of goodies are used to get to the finish line.


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## singletrack100 (Dec 18, 2013)

model-a said:


> I know you guy's might laugh at me but I did a layout for a guy years ago with real rocks yep he went out and found a couple of buckets of rocks different size some off the tracks right behind his house hot glued them on they looked good and I weighed them and only added about 6 pounds or so. There still on there and he has moved it twice when he moved with know problems.


DISCLAIMER- I'm not that guy, but I do use real rocks, Durabond and Sculptamold. I've brought home many a rock from dog walks that have different surfaces or shapes and have incorporated them into many of my scenes. I've used both silicone and caulk to secure them and use Sculptamold around their edges to further secure and "tie them in" to the surrounding area. I then use acrylic washes and dry brushing to match their colors and the surrounding area. Having a real rock right there in the scene makes it a lot easier and takes a lot of guess work out of color selections!

I use Durabond 90 for my rock molds of which I have a few rubber ones and have used crumpled foil as a mold for many pours as well. It is readily available from building material outlets, easy to work with and doesn't crack.

I use Sculptamold to fill larger gaps between rock casts and to blend other materials such as broken ceiling tile into surroundings, and use Durabond mixed more watery to fill smaller cracks and gaps between casts. I also use the Durabond for dirt road grade crossings, filling in right up to and between the rails, scraping it level with the rails after it sets some and tapering it away from the rails; I run an old truck with pizza cutter wheels back and forth to establish the flangeways, followed by some blade work for cleanout afterwards when set further. On a last note, I also use a watery mix of Durabond brushed over my plaster cloth to enhance the hard shell and seal the tiny holes, and most recently "poured" a concrete platform along the rails at my passenger station.

So, I use them all (including the rocks), depending on the application needed. Since I've started using the Durabond for the bulk of my scenery needs my expensive Sculptamold mileage has increased DRAMATICALLY!

Happy RR'ing!

Duane


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