# Digitrax Voltage Reading



## zeethtrains (Jan 2, 2016)

Two months ago I decided to go DCC on my layout. BAD IDEA !!!! I spent a bunch of money on the Digitrax 602D system and have yet to run a locomotive ! And against the advice I got on this forum, I got rid of all my block switches & rewired the layout without them ! Stupid Me !!!! I've watched a few videos on programing locos & put decoders in two of them. From what I've read, I should get a reading of about 14 volts from the combined voltage of each rail to ground. I only get 4.9 on one and 2.5 on the other !!! Even at the terminals of the DCS 210+. What I need is a Digitrax for Dummies book cause this 76 year guy just don't get it even after reading the instructions & watching videos ! All I know for sure is it's going to take a lot of work to switch back to DC !!!!!


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## ecmdrw5 (Jan 16, 2021)

Instead of trying to power your whole layout, maybe make a simple straight test track to see if you can get that working properly. 

The only locos you have with DCC, you installed the encoders yourself?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

_Hmmmm...._

When I was getting started with dcc (a complete novice), I chose the Roco z21 system.

It ran beautifully from the beginning, and never a problem after 3 years.
Adding engines is a snap.
Programming is super-easy (and if it wasn't "easy" I couldn't do it!).

I'll bet when you were "asking for advice", I suggested the z21 to you, right here.

These days, the "white box" z21start is getting a little harder to find at decent prices (though it still can be found on ebay, usually for sale in Europe, where I bought from).

The "black box" Z21 (large "Z") is too expensive, I wouldn't recommend it.

Rather, I'd suggest the *Digikeijs DR5000.*
Not expensive ($200 US) and it works with almost all handhelds there.
AND... *it works with the FREE z21 control app, as well.*

That means you can use it with ANY smartphone or tablet (Android or iOS).

It's not only one of the best systems out there... it's also one of the cheapest!


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## zeethtrains (Jan 2, 2016)

Thanks J.Albert......It's a little late for that !!!!!!


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## Dennis461 (Jan 5, 2018)

disconnect the layout, connect to a 36" piece of rail as ecmdrw5 suggested.


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## Stejones82 (Dec 22, 2020)

I am not an expert, but seems to me that I remember reading that DCC voltage is more Ac-ish than DC-ish. Try using your multimeter on the AC voltage scale. And I am fairly confident that it takes a special equipment to read the amperage. I'll go test with my Zephyr system when I get home. And I have a DCC book by Kalmbach that talks about measuring V and A.

I agree with the troubleshooting by connecting the command station to a short piece of totally independent test track. 

Finally, I have heard lots good about their tech support.

Sorry for your pain and frustration! I hope it gets resolved quickly!

From a Digitrax users forum: 

Wil,

Use a DC setting with a scale of 7 to 12 volts or so. Then measure from
LocoNet common, this can be a booster case, green wire, or ground connector.
Place the neg lead here, and measure to one rail, this will be approx one
half the digital voltage across the rails, so you can just double it. Or if
you like to double check your booster output, then measure the other rail,
should be almost if not the same as the first rail. Add the two reading
together and you will have it.

If you like you can build the active circuit at:
http://www.geocities.com/ResearchTriangle/Lab/8859/awrrhome.html
Fred's circuit will give you a True RMS reading capable of handling the high
speed 10k variable-duty-cycle, non-sinusoidal AC of DCC, and you only need a
1 volt or so DC meter to read it. Really not needed for Digitrax or any
system that will supply a - connection at the internal H bridge as Digitrax
does. But for systems that do not supply it, it works fine.


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## ecmdrw5 (Jan 16, 2021)

Stejones82 said:


> http://www.geocities.com/ResearchTriangle/Lab/8859/awrrhome.html


Geocities!? I’m going to guess that link doesn’t work anymore. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## zeethtrains (Jan 2, 2016)

Stejones82 said:


> I am not an expert, but seems to me that I remember reading that DCC voltage is more Ac-ish than DC-ish. Try using your multimeter on the AC voltage scale. And I am fairly confident that it takes a special equipment to read the amperage. I'll go test with my Zephyr system when I get home. And I have a DCC book by Kalmbach that talks about measuring V and A.
> 
> I agree with the troubleshooting by connecting the command station to a short piece of totally independent test track.
> 
> ...


With the layout unhooked from DSC 210+ I get 6.5 volts between the center (grd terminal) and the A terminal and only .5 volts between the grd and terminal B


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## zeethtrains (Jan 2, 2016)

ecmdrw5 said:


> Instead of trying to power your whole layout, maybe make a simple straight test track to see if you can get that working properly.
> 
> The only locos you have with DCC, you installed the encoders yourself?
> 
> ...


Yes, I installed them !


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

DCC is a very siimple train system to set up and
operate. Unfortunately you have purchased an advanced
and very complex model.

The Digitrax 602D is an accessory dual control that
plugs into the DCS 210+ Digitrax DCC control system using
a loco net cable. You also must connect the PS615 power supply
and 614 unit to the 210*. The track is connected to the marked terminals on the 210.

Here is the operating manual:



https://www.digitrax.com/media/apps/products/starter-sets/evox/documents/Evolution_Express_Manual.pdf



Review your 210+ operating manual pages 26,27 & 28.

The output of a DCC digital control system to the track is approximately
14 volts rail to rail modified AC. To measure DCC track voltage, set
your meter to AC, one probe on left rail, other on right rail. The voltage
does not vary as you operate speed control.

If you have further trouble do contact Digitrax directly. They will
guide your installation. 

Don


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## zeethtrains (Jan 2, 2016)

DonR said:


> DCC is a very siimple train system to set up and
> operate. Unfortunately you have purchased an advanced
> and very complex model.
> 
> ...


Shouldn't I have 14 volts at the terminals on the DCS 210+ with nothing hooked to it ?


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

Yes, approximately 14 AC across rail A (RA on the booster) to rail B (RB) terminals. You will most likely have to turn on the track voltage from the throttle. You have a really nice DCC system, but like anything new you just need to keep plugging away at it and as mentioned above call Digitrax for help, they will help!


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

You will need a VOM that reads true RMS AC voltage to get an accurate reading at the rail for DCC.


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## zeethtrains (Jan 2, 2016)

Lemonhawk said:


> Yes, approximately 14 AC across rail A (RA on the booster) to rail B (RB) terminals. You will most likely have to turn on the track voltage from the throttle. You have a really nice DCC system, but like anything new you just need to keep plugging away at it and as mentioned above call Digitrax for help, they will help!


Thanks for all the help !!!!


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## zeethtrains (Jan 2, 2016)

MichaelE said:


> You will need a VOM that reads true RMS AC voltage to get an accurate reading at the rail for DCC.


Can you recommend a reasonably priced VOM that does that ?


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

zeethtrains said:


> Thanks J.Albert......It's a little late for that !!!!!!


Yes, he's good at that. He also conveniently overlooks the fact that wiring you track correctly isna huge part of the issue, and the z21 is no better at this than any other system. The "simplicity" is in the set-up, and again, while it makes sense to him, it isn't the dream system he makes it out to be. He also never acknowledges that there are significant drawbacks to using smartphones and tablets as controllers. So don't kick yourself. You bought a good system (although perhaps you bought one that was too much for your needs). If Roco /Digikeis really were the answer to everyone's prayers, it would dominate the market, rather than being a bit player.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

zeethtrains said:


> Two months ago I decided to go DCC on my layout. BAD IDEA !!!! I spent a bunch of money on the Digitrax 602D system and have yet to run a locomotive ! And against the advice I got on this forum, I got rid of all my block switches & rewired the layout without them ! Stupid Me !!!! I've watched a few videos on programing locos & put decoders in two of them. From what I've read, I should get a reading of about 14 volts from the combined voltage of each rail to ground. I only get 4.9 on one and 2.5 on the other !!! Even at the terminals of the DCS 210+. What I need is a Digitrax for Dummies book cause this 76 year guy just don't get it even after reading the instructions & watching videos ! All I know for sure is it's going to take a lot of work to switch back to DC !!!!!


Kind of continuing the theme of my last post, I'm not sure why you selected this particular system -- which is probably way more than you needed, but you have it now, so what you need is patience and perseverance. Digitrax is not known for it's user-friendly documentation, but they are known for their excellent tech support. Going DCC was not a bad idea, nor was removing all of your block switches. However, I think it is distinctly possible that with multiple blocks to run DC, because you had to manually match the polarity in each block for trains to cross into them, you didn't need to worry about consistent feeder polarity. Now you do. Presumably, the blocks are still isolated electrically. Have you tried hooking up each one independently and seeing if they work? 

Also, you installed your decoders yourself. You may have made a mistake while doing so. Do you have a known-good DCC loco (even a borrower one) that you can use to test, or conversely can you take your locos somewhere with an already functioning system (from any manufacturer) and see if they work properly?

Again, going DCC wasn't a mistake, but unless you have a very simple layout (and it doesn't sound like you do), it's not as easy as simply connecting your bus wires to the base station. But between this forum and Digitrax, we'll get you up and running.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

zeethtrains said:


> Can you recommend a reasonably priced VOM that does that ?


If you don't want to pay Fluke prices, then Amprobe might be easier on your budget.

I like the accuracy, response time, and lifetime warranty of USA made Fluke meters.

Whichever you choose it must say True RMS in the spec or it isn't.


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## zeethtrains (Jan 2, 2016)

CTValleyRR said:


> Kind of continuing the theme of my last post, I'm not sure why you selected this particular system -- which is probably way more than you needed, but you have it now, so what you need is patience and perseverance. Digitrax is not known for it's user-friendly documentation, but they are known for their excellent tech support. Going DCC was not a bad idea, nor was removing all of your block switches. However, I think it is distinctly possible that with multiple blocks to run DC, because you had to manually match the polarity in each block for trains to cross into them, you didn't need to worry about consistent feeder polarity. Now you do. Presumably, the blocks are still isolated electrically. Have you tried hooking up each one independently and seeing if they work?
> 
> Also, you installed your decoders yourself. You may have made a mistake while doing so. Do you have a known-good DCC loco (even a borrower one) that you can use to test, or conversely can you take your locos somewhere with an already functioning system (from any manufacturer) and see if they work properly?
> 
> Again, going DCC wasn't a mistake, but unless you have a very simple layout (and it doesn't sound like you do), it's not as easy as simply connecting your bus wires to the base station. But between this forum and Digitrax, we'll get you up and running.


Thanks CTV.....I really appreciate your help ! I'm a retired electrician so I have 48 years of control wiring so I don't have any issues when it comes to wiring anything. I'm still laying under my layout rewiring for DCC. I left the isolated rail joiners in and ran more drops down to a buss. I have to install the reversing loop module & get it hooked up as well. I'm building a new control panel without all the block switches. Just going to have turnout switches & green & red LEDs to show turnout positions. Got some DPDT momentary mini toggles for the switch machines & some mini latching relays for the LEDS. Seems to work fine on my bread board mock up !!!! I'm quite confident that I installed my decoders in 2 locos....it's the programing I don't seem to get !!! What I don't understand is why I don't get 14 volts at the terminals of the DCS 210+ with nothing hooked to it ! I get 7 volts from A to ground & 2 volts from B to ground. Also, if I set a loco on the track it starts moving very slow ???? What's up with that ? Once again, you've been the most helpful & i really appreciate that !!!!


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

The locomotive will only begin to move when the decoder gets information packets that says it is to move....OR....because the throttle or command station still has information about the last throttle commands stored and is continuously re-issuing that command. It's like placing a locomotive on unpowered rails, putting power through to the rails, and the locomotive either takes off like a jackrabbit or the bells rings...or the horn/whistle won't stop. Those are all indications that the throttle still has those commands working from the last session. If one looks at the throttle display, it should show the active locomotive and will probably show one or two functions in action. The jackrabbit start problem is well documented for some decoders who, when the power gets applied to the rails initially, sense the inrush as maximum DC voltage and take off accordingly, too often with horrible consequences. That's a simple CV29 fix.

I can't help with the voltage disparity...I think Digitrax will help you to trouble-shoot whatever is the issue, but that's only if there isn't a simple explanation. Many years ago, they took my call and held my hand for a few minutes over the long reaches of wires to help me through a crisis with my brand new DB150. Once it all clicked, it has become second nature and that Super Empire Builder has never given me a whiff of a problem, now 15 years.

To put yourself at ease, both with your enjoyment of your trains and to keep your days happy as we move into summer, give them a call and explain your circumstances. It may take a day or two for them to call back, or someone might have you up and running inside of five minutes. Life's too short to be pondering a complex problem, or a simple one that seems intractable, when there's no shortage of help at the other end of a phone line.

That'll be two cents, please.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

You don't need a True RMS meter, you only need a simple meter that will read A/C and DC, many have suggested Harbor Freight as they have a cheap (sometimes free) VOM. I use a couple of meters from China (Banggood.com) . Right now they have this one on sale //usa.banggood.com/Flashdeals.html?pid=1296230&rmmds=home-flashdeal&bid=35139 which has a nice big readable display, or if you want a nicer one that display the track on an oscilloscope type display (way overkill) try the Mustool MT8206 as it has one of the easiest to read displays. GunrunnerJohn I think just got a MDS8207 which is an upgraded version, but these meters that have some very basic oscilloscope function while great as multimeters are very basic in their waveform display capability. 

Make sure you don't put a non-DCC equipped (DC only) Locomotive on a DCC system. It may talk about some capability to run a DC locomotive but I would avoid doing it as there is far to much risk of doing permanent damage to motor!

Measure the voltage on the DCS210+ from rail A to Rail B not to ground. And I think you may need to connect the throttle up to turn on the rail power. The DCS has LED's on it that indicate if the rail power is on.


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## zeethtrains (Jan 2, 2016)

mesenteria said:


> The locomotive will only begin to move when the decoder gets information packets that says it is to move....OR....because the throttle or command station still has information about the last throttle commands stored and is continuously re-issuing that command. It's like placing a locomotive on unpowered rails, putting power through to the rails, and the locomotive either takes off like a jackrabbit or the bells rings...or the horn/whistle won't stop. Those are all indications that the throttle still has those commands working from the last session. If one looks at the throttle display, it should show the active locomotive and will probably show one or two functions in action. The jackrabbit start problem is well documented for some decoders who, when the power gets applied to the rails initially, sense the inrush as maximum DC voltage and take off accordingly, too often with horrible consequences. That's a simple CV29 fix.
> 
> I can't help with the voltage disparity...I think Digitrax will help you to trouble-shoot whatever is the issue, but that's only if there isn't a simple explanation. Many years ago, they took my call and held my hand for a few minutes over the long reaches of wires to help me through a crisis with my brand new DB150. Once it all clicked, it has become second nature and that Super Empire Builder has never given me a whiff of a problem, now 15 years.
> 
> ...


thanks much !!!


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## zeethtrains (Jan 2, 2016)

Lemonhawk said:


> You don't need a True RMS meter, you only need a simple meter that will read A/C and DC, many have suggested Harbor Freight as they have a cheap (sometimes free) VOM. I use a couple of meters from China (Banggood.com) . Right now they have this one on sale //usa.banggood.com/Flashdeals.html?pid=1296230&rmmds=home-flashdeal&bid=35139 which has a nice big readable display, or if you want a nicer one that display the track on an oscilloscope type display (way overkill) try the Mustool MT8206 as it has one of the easiest to read displays. GunrunnerJohn I think just got a MDS8207 which is an upgraded version, but these meters that have some very basic oscilloscope function while great as multimeters are very basic in their waveform display capability.
> 
> Make sure you don't put a non-DCC equipped (DC only) Locomotive on a DCC system. It may talk about some capability to run a DC locomotive but I would avoid doing it as there is far to much risk of doing permanent damage to motor!
> 
> Measure the voltage on the DCS210+ from rail A to Rail B not to ground. And I think you may need to connect the throttle up to turn on the rail power. The DCS has LED's on it that indicate if the rail power is on.


OK,I did that ! The track status light is red & I get 6.5 volts DC rail to rail ! Is that good ?


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

The DPDT momentary toggles and the latching relays will work 
but it's a shame we didln't get to refer you to the Stapleton 751D
toggle for twin coil turnouts. In addition to throwing the points.
it controls your panel and/or track side LED signals. It also
has a built in Capacitor Discharge Unit that protects the 
turnout motor coils for accidental burnout.



751 SERIES ELECTRONIC TURNOUT SWITCHES



Don


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

zeethtrains said:


> thanks much !!!


I don't know that I have helped much, but one last bit of advice that was pounded into us by the recently deceased DCC guru over at Model Railroad, Randy Rinker (yes, COVID): before you end a session by turning off the power, double-check your throttle display(s) to ensure there are no speed steps left on the throttle, and that all unwanted functions are off. It used to be that the QSI decoders could be put into a coma by successive double-presses of F9. People would come back to the train room after a few weeks away and wonder why their relatively new Challenger doesn't seem to respond to any throttle inputs. Someone on a forum would ask if they had tried successive presses of F6 to see if they had put it to sleep earlier. Bingo. So, that's an example of things we forget and that come back to bite us. Zero your throttle!


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

Lemonhawk said:


> You don't need a True RMS meter, you only need a simple meter that will read A/C and DC,...


Digitrax procedure:

*Method 1: Rail to Chassis Ground*
This is the method recommended by Digitrax.


Digitrax Voltage Measurement
The measurements will be made between one rail and a common reference point. On a Digitrax booster, there is a "GND" or ground terminal which is used as the reference. It is also possible to use the metal case/chassis as the reference point.

Measurements are made using the _DC Volts_ (DCV) mode, on the 20VDC range, if the meter does not autorange.

Ensure that Address 00 (analog) is set to a speed of 0.

Measure from Rail A to Ground. Record this value
Ignore the sign, as DCC has no polarity.

Measure from Rail B to Ground. Record this value
The track voltage is the sum of the values found on Rails A and B


Using this method you definitely won't need a true RMS meter since you don't need it for measuring DC.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

"...the sum of the values..." Well, that tidies things substantially. This is solid information, and Digitrax supplied it on line. I hope this soothes the fret of our OP when he does the measurements and the sum.


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## zeethtrains (Jan 2, 2016)

MichaelE said:


> Digitrax procedure:
> 
> *Method 1: Rail to Chassis Ground*
> This is the method recommended by Digitrax.
> ...


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## zeethtrains (Jan 2, 2016)

I just did that. On rail A I get 7 volts....on rail B i get .5 volts ! I get the same readings right off of the 210+ terminals !


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

I've never used that method and always use the meter on AC and and read the voltage between the rails, that what the decoder would see.
At this point I suggest calling Digitrax and let them determine if the 210+ is working correctly. According to their method 1, rail be should be a 7 also and its not.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

I received an email from NCE about this DCC voltage meter. They claim it will accurately measure DCC voltage on the rails which is really closer to a digital / PWM AC computer signal at about 10Khz.

I might have to get one of the panel mount meters.

This is not an NCE product.

RRampMeter by DCC Specialties


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

Lemonhawk said:


> I've never used that method and always use the meter on AC and and read the voltage between the rails, that what the decoder would see.
> At this point I suggest calling Digitrax and let them determine if the 210+ is working correctly. According to their method 1, rail be should be a 7 also and its not.


Yes, agreed, and I do the same. Press the button to switch between DC and AC, turn the voltage range knob to 20 volts, and probe each rail. Should get a voltage of between 13.5 and 14.5V in AC. At least, that's what my meter tells me my DB150 is putting out.


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

Micheal, I have one of those meters and they are pretty handy.
Not just for checking track Volts and Amps but for loco Amp draw as well.
A bit spendy but for me worth it.

Magic


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

Since I have both meters I decided to do a test.

I have a Digitrax DCS51 base station.
It's advertised output is 14.3 Volts I believe.
Reading across Rails A & B.
With the multimeter it showed 15.4 VAC.
It's an old one but not a cheepy, Snap-On.

With the RRampMeter it showed 14.6VDCC.
0.08 Amps with one sound loco running at low speed.

There is a difference of about 1 Volt, not that big a deal.

Doing the Digitrax test, multimeter.
Rail A to ground 7.72 VAC
Rail B to ground 7.5 VAC.
Total 15.22 VAC. Pretty much what the reading was across two rails.

Rereading the test again it said use DC so I did.
Rail A to ground 7.2VDC.
Rail B to ground 6.6VDC.
Total 13.8 VDC. About a half a Volt from what the advertised 14.3 VAC.

Magic


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

Well Magic my curiosity was tweaked and I had to look at my voltages. I have a DCS240 powered by a 15 volt Jamco power supply (picture 1).








Picture 1

I powered everything up an used the DS602D to turn on the track power (note that in picture 1 the Track Status light is not Green as the track power was not on yet. The next picture (2) is the AC voltage across rail A and Rail B which shows 16.5 volts AC.








Picture 2

Picture 3 is the waveform across rail A and rail B. 








Picture 3

Pictures 4 and 5 show the DC voltage from rail A to ground (7.33 VDC) and its waveform.








Picture 4








Picture 5

Pictures 6 and 7 show the DC voltage from Rail B to ground (7.33 VDC) and its waveform.








Picture 6








Picture 7
Summing Rail A + Rail B to ground measurements I get 14.66 while the AC voltage across Rail A to B was 16.5 VAC. 
Note that the meter in graphics mode indicates 8.08 and 8.11 peak to peak and summing these voltage I get 16.19 and from picture 2 the graphics output display a 16.54 peak to peak voltage.

Summary - it's easier to just read the Rail A to Rail B voltage as an AC voltage, but Digitrax may want the ground to rail voltages for some sort of fault isolation.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

All of this is true, but far above the understanding of the
average modeller. Very, very few of us would ever have
need of a precise track voltage reading. The simple multimeter
AC probes on the rails reading of 'around' 14 volts
is sufficient to prove ample track power.

Don


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

Lemon, you have a much better meter than I do.

DonR It was just an exercise to see what happened.
Anything above 14 VAC is more than good enough for a Digitrax system.


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## zeethtrains (Jan 2, 2016)

Lemonhawk said:


> Well Magic my curiosity was tweaked and I had to look at my voltages. I have a DCS240 powered by a 15 volt Jamco power supply (picture 1).
> 
> 
> DonR said:
> ...


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

Have you contacted Digitrax yet?
They are very good about their warranty on their stuff.
Sure sounds like you got a bad unit and Digitrax will make it right.

Magic


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## zeethtrains (Jan 2, 2016)

I'm waiting for my RRampmeter to arrive and see what it says !


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

zeethtrains said:


> I'm waiting for my RRampmeter to arrive and see what it says !


I've stayed out of the discussion because I'm not an expert in electrical stuff and I know my limits. However, I do know logic and common sense. For some reason, you appear to be resisting calling Digitrax for assistance. At the end of the day, if your unit is defective (and it sounds like it), you're going to be calling them anyway. Why not start with the obvious solution instead of nibbling around the edges?


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

When I had trouble with a digitrax throttle I bought on Ebay I was reluctant to call Digitrax, when I finally had run out of options I made the call and they talked me thru the problem in a 10 minute call. First I could not believe they answer the phone and then to really help was just icing on the cake. Great company to work with!


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## zeethtrains (Jan 2, 2016)

CTValleyRR said:


> I've stayed out of the discussion because I'm not an expert in electrical stuff and I know my limits. However, I do know logic and common sense. For some reason, you appear to be resisting calling Digitrax for assistance. At the end of the day, if your unit is defective (and it sounds like it), you're going to be calling them anyway. Why not start with the obvious solution instead of nibbling around the edges?


I am chatting with them on their help desk !


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## zeethtrains (Jan 2, 2016)

CTValleyRR said:


> I've stayed out of the discussion because I'm not an expert in electrical stuff and I know my limits. However, I do know logic and common sense. For some reason, you appear to be resisting calling Digitrax for assistance. At the end of the day, if your unit is defective (and it sounds like it), you're going to be calling them anyway. Why not start with the obvious solution instead of nibbling around the edges?


I talked to Digitrax a few weeks ago and did everything they told me to do with the booster. Still only 10 volts coming out of it ! So they said to send it to them which I did. A few days ago I received an e mail from them saying they received it. Also it said 60 to 90 days to repair it !!!!! That is insane for something I purchased in March and never got it to run a train with it !!!! Seems to if someone purchased an item and it didn't work I would just replace it with one that DOES work ! So my adventure trying to go DCC has turned into a disaster ! And obviously going with Digitrax wasn't my smartest move either (where it said I'll be running trains in an hour) It's almost 4 months now.


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## jackpresley (Dec 19, 2017)

zeethtrains said:


> I talked to Digitrax a few weeks ago and did everything they told me to do with the booster. Still only 10 volts coming out of it ! So they said to send it to them which I did. A few days ago I received an e mail from them saying they received it. Also it said 60 to 90 days to repair it !!!!! That is insane for something I purchased in March and never got it to run a train with it !!!! Seems to if someone purchased an item and it didn't work I would just replace it with one that DOES work ! So my adventure trying to go DCC has turned into a disaster ! And obviously going with Digitrax wasn't my smartest move either (where it said I'll be running trains in an hour) It's almost 4 months now.


I'm sorry you've gone through all this. Been there with some expensive Lionel stuff. I've recently learned to return things that don't work *immediately* to the seller for a refund or exchange. Don't wait. I never deal with the manufacturer for this very reason. I expect things to work right out of the box *without exception.* I should never have to "fix" anything or tweak it. Consequently I pay more attention to the seller's return policy than minor differences in price.


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

OP wrote:
_"my adventure trying to go DCC has turned into a disaster ! And obviously going with Digitrax wasn't my smartest move either (where it said I'll be running trains in an hour) It's almost 4 months now."_

Change "digitrax" to "Digikeijs" and you'll be smiling, not cursing.

See my post #3 to you, earlier in this thread.

Stop making it hard on yourself.
My way is the easy way, and it... _works._


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

I doubt you would get better service from anyone else, covid has really set things back. I've never had any trouble from Digitrax, remember they actually talked to you! I would also talk to them about the long time delay, it may be just a standard answer and reality will be much shorter.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

J.Albert1949 said:


> OP wrote:
> _"my adventure trying to go DCC has turned into a disaster ! And obviously going with Digitrax wasn't my smartest move either (where it said I'll be running trains in an hour) It's almost 4 months now."_
> 
> Change "digitrax" to "Digikeijs" and you'll be smiling, not cursing.
> ...


PLEASE come over to real life with the rest of us. YOURS worked for you because of your particular combination of circumstances (including the fact that you did NOT get a defective unit). It is extremely unlikely that anyone else, especially someone with a complex layout, is going to have the same set of parameters and conditions as you do.

For what I wish would be the last time (but knowing your fan-boy attitude towards your system, I'm certain it won't be): the Digikeijs / z21 is NOT the hands down solution to everyone's DCC problems that you imagine (or have deluded yourself into thinking) it is. Just because it worked, and was right, for you does not provide empirical evidence that it will work for anyone else.

"Advice" of this nature is not helpful to anyone. We get it that you're happy with your system. Leave it at that. Feel free to recommend it with an open-eyed and honest assessment of it's strengths and weaknesses (because it has both) to people, but stop your dewy-eyed fanboy gushing every time the subject of DCC comes up. ESPECIALLY when the comments are directed at someone who has already purchased a different system. You're like that annoying relative who has recently discovered some fad, and then proceeds to ruin every family gathering my trying to convert everyone else.


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

J.Albert1949 said:


> OP wrote:
> _"my adventure trying to go DCC has turned into a disaster ! And obviously going with Digitrax wasn't my smartest move either (where it said I'll be running trains in an hour) It's almost 4 months now."_
> 
> Change "digitrax" to "Digikeijs" and you'll be smiling, not cursing.
> ...


This is a ridiculous and self-serving statement. Every manufacturer of every item sold in a market of any description has had to repair or to replace something or other due to failures. All it takes is a little understanding of randomness, mean times to failure, and other statistical analyses. Whether attributable to component defect or improper assembly/testing, or wear 'n tear, at some point every system has a failure.


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