# Lionel 6466W Rehab



## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

It's time to get the tender up and running for my 2035. As you can see, this thing is pretty beat up. The kids who played with this and the 2035 definitely were not gentle.

When I dropped this on the track and hit the whistle trigger nothing happened. It's going to get a full clean and lube. Also, a full rewire since the wire that is there is dry rotted and falling apart. Probably has something to do with it's non-functioning state.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

I'm debating whether or not to repaint it while I'm at it. It could definitely use it. Hmmmm


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

The wires have seen better days! Paint or not, as long as you get it up and running!


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

The 3 or 4 tenders that I worked on all showed brittle/broken/ and unsolder joints.A good clean-up, new brushes if needed, and small amount of lube, and off they went!!


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

I did get this apart and rewired / lubed. There's a problem at the roller pickup that I need to address. It works like a champ with a test lead, but the roller contact isn't picking up yet. That should be an easy one to take care of when I get to it later.

That and the second roller is broken from the truck. I wish I had one in my parts bin, but I don't. I'll get one in from Jeff and replace it.

I'll probably just give the shell a good bath and call it done. Maybe paint it later.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

One positive about that tender's finish...you won't have
to weather it.

Don


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## 400E Blue Comet (Jul 11, 2014)

Oh man it looks like I have this tender but it's missing the front wheels and there's no whistle or mechanism inside. I don't have the engine either. Did they make a version of this tender with no whistle? Maybe I should look for a 2035 to go with this thing.


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## 400E Blue Comet (Jul 11, 2014)

Yep, mine is a 6466 but I can't make out the last digit. It's got the holes for the mechanism and everything... but no mechanism. It looks kind of like "64661", "6466T", "6466I", or "6466l". It certainly is the same tender but some kind of different variant, the last character is kind of straight to be a line in the W.


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## teledoc (Oct 22, 2014)

The 6466 and 2466 tenders came in both the non-whistle 2466T/6466T, and the whistle versions 2466W/6466W. Both versions _typically_ came with coil couplers.


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## T-Man (May 16, 2008)

If you strip it, the color may pass as a good Xmas tender. Candy Cane Style.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Haha - that's a good argument for stripping it.


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## callmeIshmael2 (May 28, 2012)

Satisfy yourself on the finish, Erk! I know we'll get a good vid when you're done. I don't quite get why there's so much resistance to repainting somewhat ruined finishes. Painting is an art, also, and a lot of fun. It takes the same kind of moxie, concentration, supply interface and technique as most engine/part refurbishings. Plus, you can have an item that's truly a one-off. I've seen really good repaints eg: someone last year sold four Lionel O gauge passenger (fifties-era) with the typical Lionel finishes, repainted nicely for the Wabash. I don't remember the exact final figure, but went for at least a hundred over what the coaches typically bring on the Bay. There's just this Purist belief out there that ugly original finishes beat decent repaints -that IMHO is unsighted.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

I'm not a purist on the paint - it's more that I just don't know if I want to dedicate the time to repainting it. I have plenty of other projects in the backlog.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Time to place this one on hold for a couple of days. I ordered some new baseplates with rollers from Jeff at The Train Tender. When those come in I'll move the trucks over and finish this up.

I doubt that I'm going to paint it. Too much else to do, and it looks just fine when it rolls on by.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

Get out you black Sharpie and touch it up. I have a 12 wheel tender that is pink plastic and has many chips in the black paint. I touched it up with a Sharpie many years ago, and it looks OK.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Here's a quick update. The armature was a mess, and needed a real cleaning. I took a picture of it apart, but forgot to take a picture after I gave it a good polishing with some ScotchBrite and GooGone. I cleaned up all of the whistle components, and gave them all a light oiling.

The second photo is of the broken contact roller point. That's what needs replaced, and is on order from Jeff.


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## 400E Blue Comet (Jul 11, 2014)

Personally I'm more of the type to leave the original paint on. It may not look as nice but it's more original and I think it's worth more if you leave it on. Plus painting it with nothing requires... Nothing!


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

I like the idea of just leaving it as-is. Functional is fun!


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## 400E Blue Comet (Jul 11, 2014)

I wonder why there's a bunch of red marks on it. It's like a crayola tender


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## Yukon Jack (Feb 1, 2014)

Well, I would paint that tender and never look back! Life is too short to run ugly trains!


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

The red marks are the plastic beneath the paint.

I wouldn't call it ugly, I prefer the term 'character'.


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## upsman55 (Jan 11, 2013)

If you were going to repaint, how would you strip the old finish? I imagine you would have to be careful since its a molded plastic shell. Just wondering what kind of preperAtion needs to be done.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

I would first give it a good bath in dish detergent, and a scrubbing with a tooth brush to get all of the dirt out of all of the nooks and crannies. Then, I would go through and fix all of the nicks and bumps. This tender has its collection of road scars. I'd probably use a light filler to do that.

Once that was done, I'd do a light sanding to true up the filler. Make sure you use a block when doing that to keep the surface nice and level. With the filler squared away, I'd then give the whole thing a light scuffing - use a ScotchBrite pad.

Then, another bath to remove all of the dust. Followed by a cleaning with a foaming window cleaner (the stuff you use on cars). That will get rid of all of the grease and oils that still may be there. Make sure you use nitrile gloves or similar so you don't leave oily fingerprints.

From there it's a matter of painting it. Use light coats and build to cover. You don't want to go heavy or you'll start losing the details (rivets, etc) molded into the plastic.

After that, it's a matter of redoing the lettering. You can find the correct stamps and inks on everybody's favorite auction site. 

If anybody else has a different method please chime in. My other hobby is painting cars (real ones  ) so I might go a bit overkill.


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## 3windowc (Dec 31, 2012)

Joe Mania JLM Trains [mailto:[email protected]] Email Joe and give him the tender number and he should be able to match it. He has a complete line of stamps and inks. He has more stamps than what is on his list. Pre-war & post-war


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## upsman55 (Jan 11, 2013)

Erk...nice detailed reply! thanks!


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

I emailed him - and he has replacement window struts for the #58 Great Northern snow engine. I never thought I'd find those!


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

erkenbrand said:


> I emailed him - and he has replacement window struts for the #58 Great Northern snow engine. I never thought I'd find those!


I see you're working on that rotary plow I sold you?? Great!! Can't wait til I see it in action.


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## erkenbrand (Dec 6, 2010)

Yup, I'm getting around to it.  I have it in the 'coming up' pile.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

erkenbrand said:


> Yup, I'm getting around to it.  I have it in the 'coming up' pile.


You da man!! I'm so very grateful I met you!!


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