# Using Analog Kato Turnout Switches with DCC++ Arduino



## HockeyMagic39 (Sep 8, 2021)

It seems all I can find online are people wanting to convert their turnout switches to digital. I don't want to do that. I want to keep the old way of switching my turnouts (analog) using the kato switches for my #6 N scale turnouts. But, as I am newer to this digital world, I fear burning/melting the turnouts or ruining my DCC trains or my Arduino Mega and Motor Shield. My question is: Can I run my DCC trains using DCC++ Arduino Mega and Motor Shield while, at the same time, running my Kato #6 turnouts using the original AC power from my Railpower1300 powerpack through the DC converter? (Or I guess I could just use the DC power from the powerpack since I am not using it to power the trains now?) To be clear, this would be two power sources. One for the DCC++ for the trains (Arduino) and a second power supply (Railpower1300) for the turnout switches. I would think this is a simple question and I am over thinking it, but since I can't find the answer using google I've come here for clarification. Thanks for all your help!


----------



## Severn (May 13, 2016)

I think THINK... In other words guessing because its how "everything else is" ... Is the switch power AC or DC, powers the switch motors and doesn't apply power to the track also. But I don't have any Kato switches or their motors or the throws to say with absolute certainty. And I don't have any n of note .... But ho, must be the same I imagine

For example I'm using micro engineering switches. I'm using some z stuff for train motors. The motors will run ac or dc
but... In o probably typically AC.

Anyway I got out an old Tyco transformer and used accessory outs to the motor. Works fine. It's ac. About 18v I think on the label.

But the track power which is dcc in my case is a totally separate thing and never the two meet.

Im also using dcc++ and jmri.


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Hockey

I have never used the Kato turnouts, however, from what I have read, they require a DC
power source. Their single coil motor pulls the points one way when given a certain DC
momentary polarity, and the other way when polarity is reversed...this is done when you
use the Kato turnout controls. The track terminals of an old DC power pack set
to a voltage of around 14 volts will work just fine for your Kato turnouts

There is so much total malarky about DCC and turnouts. Turnouts do not care 
whether the track power thru their rails is DCC or DC. Be assured you will not
harm your Kato turnouts when you run DCC++ plus Arduino etc. trains so long as you use DC
to power for their their motors. 

Have fun.

Don


----------



## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

I use Kato switches, but I'm in HO scale, not N.

The HO scale Kato powered switches need DC power to throw the switch motors.
This is the same for those switches that have the switch motors factory-installed, or if they are manual switches to which you have added the separate switch motors.

I don't believe the switch motors are connected to track power in any way.
Certainly not with the manual switches that have the Kato "add-on" switch motors.


----------



## kilowatt62 (Aug 18, 2019)

Maybe time to break out the multimeter and start checking for continuity points between the rails and motor assembly.


----------



## Steve Rothstein (Jan 1, 2021)

I use Kato unitrack n gauge with turnouts and switches to control them. I ran dcc for the engines and the Kato blue switches for the turnouts until I upgraded to Ken Stapleton's 751K electronic switches. As @DonR said, Kato switches require a dc power supply with a momentary switch that reverses polarity. The factory switches and the 751K switches both do that, though one uses electronics to switch the polarity and one uses mechanical switching. You can also use any DPDT on-off-on momentary switch if you wire it correctly. The important thing to remember is keeping the pulse short and not holding the switch in the on position too long.

The advantage to the 751K switches is that the toggle stays in one direction plus they are designed to support putting LEDs in to indicate direction. You can easily build a panel with a map of the layout and the switch/LEDs showing the turnout position. I used 10 Kato switches in a straight line plugged into each other when I started and I was always hitting the wrong switch when I needed to change one.


----------



## vette-kid (May 2, 2020)

I wasted a bunch of time and money on the 751s. Not that ken makes a bad product, I just could not get them to work. I still have no idea what the issue was, everything seems correct, they just don't work. Burned out a few switches, LEDs won't light, etc. Infuriating. 

With the kato stuff I'll just stick to their controls, they just work. Every. Single. Time. 

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk


----------



## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Vette-kid

The 751 series of turnout controls come in 3 different 
electrical designs. 
1. Twin Coil motors (Peco, Atlas and many others) 
Has built in capacitor discharge Unit to protect coils.
2 . Single Coil motors (Kato)
3. Stall motors (Tortoise)

If you were burning out turnout
coils it sounds like you may have got the model
for Stall motor turnout motors that keeps power on
the motor at all times.

Don


----------



## freescopesdad (Nov 6, 2021)

Steve Rothstein said:


> I use Kato unitrack n gauge with turnouts and switches to control them. I ran dcc for the engines and the Kato blue switches for the turnouts until I upgraded to Ken Stapleton's 751K electronic switches. As @DonR said, Kato switches require a dc power supply with a momentary switch that reverses polarity. The factory switches and the 751K switches both do that, though one uses electronics to switch the polarity and one uses mechanical switching. You can also use any DPDT on-off-on momentary switch if you wire it correctly. The important thing to remember is keeping the pulse short and not holding the switch in the on position too long.
> 
> The advantage to the 751K switches is that the toggle stays in one direction plus they are designed to support putting LEDs in to indicate direction. You can easily build a panel with a map of the layout and the switch/LEDs showing the turnout position. I used 10 Kato switches in a straight line plugged into each other when I started and I was always hitting the wrong switch when I needed to change one.


My situation exactly... How reliable have those 751-K's been for you? I'm awaiting a call back from Ken as we speak.
Ron


----------



## Steve Rothstein (Jan 1, 2021)

freescopesdad said:


> My situation exactly... How reliable have those 751-K's been for you? I'm awaiting a call back from Ken as we speak.
> Ron


Very reliable. I like them and will use them again in my next layout.


----------



## freescopesdad (Nov 6, 2021)

Steve Rothstein said:


> Very reliable. I like them and will use them again in my next layout.


Thanks Steve. I ordered 11 of the 751K's, the prewired harnesses plus a pack of LEDs. Hopefully they will ship today and I should get them in a week. My predrilled control panel is ready and waiting...
Ron


----------



## freescopesdad (Nov 6, 2021)

Everything came yesterday, so today's task is to wire up one turnout with LEDs and make sure it works AND understand what is going on...


----------



## pkananen (1 mo ago)

freescopesdad said:


> Everything came yesterday, so today's task is to wire up one turnout with LEDs and make sure it works AND understand what is going on...


How did they work out for you?


----------



## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

_"Can I run my DCC trains using DCC++ Arduino Mega and Motor Shield while, at the same time, running my Kato #6 turnouts using the original AC power from my Railpower1300 powerpack through the DC converter?"_

An older post, but my thoughts if anyone has the question in the future.

I was looking for a quick-n-easy setup, so I used the Kato switch levers and connecting cables. You can see the Kato ac-dc "converter" (part number 24-842) on the left:








For a 15v ac power source, I used the "auxilliary" hookup on an OLD MRC power pack (from the 1970's!):








I ran the leads from the MRC to a short terminal block, and connected the leads to the Kato ac-dc converter:








Works fine.
There's no "connection" between "switch power" and "track power".
DCC runs just fine with this setup.

I'm currently using a Digikeijs DR5000 "universal controller" box, and for control I use the Roco z21 app running on a Samsung (Android) tablet.


----------

