# Tenshodo brass GP-20 salvage



## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

I bought this brass GP 20 on Ebay and plan on installing some Athearn trucks from a GP 35 and newer style motor and install DCC. I believe this GP 20 is an early 60's production. The frame is complete except for the railing on one side. The body is missing the exhaust stack and sand covers on the nose and rear. I have a lathe and milling machine and should be able to duplicate the parts.

Ed


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## Bonz85 (Sep 16, 2019)

Cool project.


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

The first thing I did was fill in the holes for the old pivot points with some brass rod and silver soldered them on the frame and milled it flush. After carefully measuring I drilled 3/16 holes for the new pivot points. Using some brass stock I made 2 new pivot points and soldered them on the frame. I then milled out the openings for the Athearn trucks. A frame was made out of 3/16 X 1/16 brass for the motor mount. I also milled away the opening for the motor and brass flywheels.

Ed


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

I started the wiring of the Athearn trucks. The tall stand-off tab was cut off and 2 holes were drilled with a # 56 drill bit and tapped for 0-80 brass screw. I tapped the hole part way and installed the screw then carefully forced it into the untapped section to have a good solid contact. The red and black wires were soldered on. Then the upper part of the screw was cut off. With the trucks fully turned neither the wires or brass screw contact the frame.

Ed


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## Bonz85 (Sep 16, 2019)

Looking good


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

One of the repairs I made was to the front light and number board. That section which consists of 3 pieces was soldered on crooked. Upon heating it up to move it slightly it fell apart. I re-assembled it with silver solder so it would stay together as I heated it up and used regular solder to attach it back on.

Ed


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

I have the railing and stanchions for one side only. The original ones that I have removed have nice detail on them. The top of the stanchions are drilled to allow the railing to slide thru it.

Where can I find some nice brass stanchions like the original?

Ed


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

This is another repair I needed to make. The ends of the air tanks are drilled off center. I tried to repair them but it did not work out. So I cut the tank ends off the bracket and made some new ones. I used silver soldered to attach them to the brass bracket and I will use soft solder to mount the wires and to mount it to the frame.

Ed


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

The air tanks are repaired and mounted on the frame. I used a thick piece of basswood and epoxied it to the frame for the motor mount. The wood was drilled to match the mounting holes on the motor frame and #1 brass screws are used to mount the motor. By using the wood it insulates its from the frame and keeps any vibration noise from getting into the metal frame.

Ed


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

I temporarily wired the Digitrax DH126 to test the motor and trucks. It runs nice and smooth. Here is a very short video with some loud kitchen background noises (sorry).

Ed


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Looking good Ed.:thumbsup:

This place sells stanchions, they also sell handrail sets. But I don't think there is a set that you are looking for. Take a look.

https://ppw-aline.com/collections/a...d-steps-handrails-stanchions-window-sets-more


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

On the handrail stanchions link they have brass wire.
But you probably have brass wire?

Edit,
This place lists GP 20 handrail set, though no pictures.
Has stanchions too.

https://www.smokeyvalley.com/


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Found this in my travels in the HO seeker site,










https://www.hoseeker.net/


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

Thanks Big Ed for the information and the detail sheet.

Ed


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

I have a circuit board that I had removed from a DCC Bachmann and replaced it with a Digitrax decoder. So I removed the old decoder from the circuit board and soldered the Digitrax DH 126 decoder to it and soldered the truck and motor wires to it. The decoder is taped to the underside of the board and clears the flywheel by 1/16 inch. The two LED's work but need to be extended after I make some plastic lens for the front and rear lights along with some number boards. The shell fits on the frame and clear of all wires and electronics.

Looks like this will be a keeper, Ed


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Are you planning to paint it?


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

Big Ed said:


> Are you planning to paint it?


Not sure, this is my first brass engine. I thought about media blasting it and clear coat. Or maybe paint it as a switcher for Kaiser Steel Corporation. They had a mine in eagle mountain Calif. And a steel mill in Fontana Calif.

Ed


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

soda will give more of a shine under clear coat, but fine sand will help paint to adhere better ...


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

wvgca said:


> soda will give more of a shine under clear coat, but fine sand will help paint to adhere better ...


Are you talking about baking soda?

Ed


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

yes, baking soda, or just plain soda ... a much finer medium ran at a fairly low pressure, 20 - 30 psi or so ... good for cleaning up [and lightly etching] brass for clear coat [or paint] ..


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

That is really looking sharp, Ed! :appl: :smilie_daumenpos: :smilie_daumenpos:


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## ebtnut (Mar 9, 2017)

Lots of good work there, Ed. Just as an aside, Tyco brought out a plastic model of the GP-20 in the same time period as your Tenshodo piece. It looked pretty decent but if I recall, it only had one truck powered. One of our club members took one and put a Hobbytown drive in it - it wound up being our all-purpose test loco because it would run when nothing else would. Unfortunately it disappeared in one of our moves over the years.


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

Thanks Guy's for the comments. It has been a fun project. Still have lots to do with the shell.

Ed


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

Here is a short video I made after programming the decoder for a switcher. I set CV2 to 26, CV6 to 38 and CV5 to 64. When the GP 20 is moving forward it is in step3 on the reverse it is in step 1 and moving nice and slow. 

The shelf layout I have is John Allen's switching Puzzle still under construction.

Ed


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

i would add DCC controlled couplers for the above ...they are easy to add, take less than 100 ma, if you have one or two spare function output ...
less 'hands on' for easier operation


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

wvgca said:


> i would add DCC controlled couplers for the above ...they are easy to add, take less than 100 ma, if you have one or two spare function output ...
> less 'hands on' for easier operation


Can you attach the smart coupler directly to the decoder or do you have to also buy their control board? It looks like the smart couplers are $32 apiece.

Ed


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

if you do a search for threads started under my name, you will find one that uses vibrator motors hooked directly to a function output of a decoder, these are less than a dollar each ... and just use simple thread hooked between the motor shat and the kadee coupler , also includes a video of them working ..
the motors draw less than 100 mamp, and can be hooked directly to the function output , to use these front and back you would need two spare function outputs ..


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

wvgca said:


> if you do a search for threads started under my name, you will find one that uses vibrator motors hooked directly to a function output of a decoder, these are less than a dollar each ... and just use simple thread hooked between the motor shat and the kadee coupler , also includes a video of them working ..
> the motors draw less than 100 mamp, and can be hooked directly to the function output , to use these front and back you would need two spare function outputs ..



Make it easier for him?
Just link it here, you know how to link something?

Your talking about this thread?

https://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=99489


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

EdC said:


> Thanks Guy's for the comments. It has been a fun project. Still have lots to do with the shell.
> 
> Ed


Did you hookup lights to both front and rear?
Do the marker lights light up?

Maybe you would be better off painting it because of the repairs?

We have a thread somewhere about do you paint or not paint brass.
I searched but can't find it. 
A lot say you must paint brass. 
Me? I like the brass look. 

It would be nice now for you to make a small train of brass for the locomotive to pull around.
Maybe a box car, tanker, hopper, flatbed and caboose.
Brass cars have some nice details to them.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

ed .. that's the right thread ...
price has gone up on the vibrator motors, but they are still available


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

This is looking great! I'm inspired, that simple. 

Did you get the guts by cannibalizing something else ?


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

Severn said:


> This is looking great! I'm inspired, that simple.
> 
> Did you get the guts by cannibalizing something else ?


I had an old Athearn GP 35 that I bought in the 70"s. I installed a newer style motor in it, but it still looked old and beat up and did not run good. So I used the trucks and motor on the brass GP 20 conversion. During the conversion I found on one of the trucks the metal bars that are riveted to the trucks for electrical pickup was loose and causing intermittent electrical problems. I solved that problem with brass screws embedded into the trucks for electrical pickup. Which I showed in an earlier post.

Ed


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

Today I am working on the exhaust stack which was one of the items missing on the shell. First I sized a block of brass to the correct size then drilled 2 holes to match the holes in the shell. Next I cut the top angle to 75 degrees then under cut .015 off the lower part of the exhaust body. I will need to recess an opening on the top of the stack and install a grill or screen. Also silver solder two pegs in the bottom of the exhaust stack.

Ed


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

I guess brass is pretty easy to work with? I don't have a good bench but a ton of tools.

I guess if you wanted to, you could hinge all those door panels... when you opened it up you could have a false face engine compartment, maybe a few leds out of view with some lighting effects.

So I did this -- https://www.shapeways.com/product/PGGQE59EC/prime-mover-1-1-48-scale

But I could shrink it to ho-scale.

It's not quite right I just used my eye ball to mimic what I could dig up in pictures.


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

Yes, Shapeways is another option if you need a part that is not available. They can also print parts in brass although it is very expensive.

Ed


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

All the missing pieces are back on the shell. The two covers for the sand containers, the exhaust stack which I hollowed out and the horns. I have decided to paint the shell in the Western Pacific colors, Orange and Silver. But before I do that I need to media blast it with backing soda.

Ed


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

You should leave the horns brass. :smilie_daumenpos:


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## blackz28 (Jan 6, 2013)

:appl:


EdC said:


> I temporarily wired the Digitrax DH126 to test the motor and trucks. It runs nice and smooth. Here is a very short video with some loud kitchen background noises (sorry).
> 
> Ed
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=llQMgzJLclU&feature=youtu.be


:appl: nice


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

I bought an air eraser from Harbor freight to media blast the shell. It was a total failure I tried baking soda, aluminum oxide and pumice, they all clogged the gun. I returned the unit and ordered Paasche air eraser. The Paasche unit worked great all though a little slow. After media blasting the shell I sprayed it with Tamiya gray surface primer. Next I need to disassemble the frame and blast it with pumice.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

that looks good .. the primer is pretty thin ..


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

I plan on painting it in Western Pacific colors which is silver and orange. Looking at Tru-color they show the WP orange but I don't see a specific silver for WP. They do have a silver but I am not sure if it is correct.

Anybody know of the correct silver I can use? 

Ed


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## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

Just wanted to express how impressed I am with your skills here. Looking forward to seeing the final result. Great work so far!


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## NorfolkSouthernguy (Jan 29, 2019)

It’s very cool to see the transformation of this engine. I am not sure how much you paid for the engine on eBay but I guarantee you have already doubled your money as is. 

I would like to do what you are doing once I get straightened out more. Finding a diamond in the rough and breathing new life in it. Seems like it would be fun one project at a time. Heck someone could actually do this as a flipper type gig. Buy low and put some time and love in it to flip it for double or even triple your money. Especially if you enjoy doing this sort of thing. Having fun and making money? Not a bad gig if you ask me. 

Nevertheless you have done a great job on this project. I will be very curious to see the end result.


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

Thanks guy's for the comments.

Mark, I paid $21 for the GP 20 on Ebay. I spend most of my time building RC boats. I needed a diversion from boat building so I started building John Allen's switching puzzle on a 6 foot shelf. So the GP 20 is a perfect project.

I have installed both coupler's on the GP 20. I had to mill the factory draft box off to install the Kadee # 242 gear box and install a # 142 drop down whisker coupler. This also required drilling a hole with a number 50 drill bit and tapping it with a 2-56 tap. The alignment is spot on.

Ed


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

The GP 20 I bought had a railing on one side only. I discovered the Athearn GP 35 I am using for parts also has brass posts that are exactly like the ones on the brass GP 20. I purchased some .020" inch music wire to redo the railing. It is much stronger than the brass wire.

Ed


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

EdC said:


> I purchased some .020" inch music wire to redo the railing. It is much stronger than the brass wire.
> 
> Ed



Music wire is -normally- steel, although it can be bought in wound and / or brass .. it does vary ..


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## rsv1ho (Oct 16, 2019)

Really enjoying your thread. I love doing this stuff.

I have a Harbor Freight cabinet sandblaster that is excellent but I found their air brush to be trash as you did. 

I have media (aluminum oxide) blasted brass at low pressure and it does a nice job of cleaning out the crevasses but you have to be very careful. I have yet to try soda. 

Like your avatar picture!!

Bob


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

rsv1ho said:


> Really enjoying your thread. I love doing this stuff.
> 
> I have a Harbor Freight cabinet sandblaster that is excellent but I found their air brush to be trash as you did.
> 
> ...


Hi Bob, I have also used aluminum oxide (240 grit) but found it is a little to aggressive. I have been using pumice made by Paasche called Air Eraser Compound AE-2. The next time I fire up my media blaster I will try the baking soda on the brass.

My avatar is a 1963 split window vette. I owned it for 20 years and restored it back to original. When I retired I sold it. I still miss it but I am glad it is gone. Are you also into metal working or brass engines?

Ed


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

The two pilots were missing the stanchions and railing. The original stanchions where installed into bump outs. But these were damaged so I had to mill them off and drill .030" holes for the 4 stanchions. The 4 brass stanchions are from the doner Athern GP 35 and the hand rails are .020" music wire. Next is to media blast them and prime them.

Ed


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## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

This just keeps getting better and better.

Good Work Ed!


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## rsv1ho (Oct 16, 2019)

I'm looking forward to seeing your final product Ed, bet it will be a charmer. 

I haven't ventured into brass.....yet, but I have been looking. I have a friend that bends and solders brass into HO locomotives but I have neither the patience or skill.

Bob


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

The stanchions and railings are installed on both pilots. The pilots are attached to the frame and have been media blasted along with the frame and primed. The shell has been mounted to the frame to make the forward hand railing. I found it difficult to make crisp bends in the railing while on the engine. So I made a railing on the engine, then removed it and glued it to a piece of cardboard and made one to match the template but with nice crisp bends.

Ed


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

should look pretty good, especially one you get the rest of them on ...
music wire or brass wire for the rest ??


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

wvgca said:


> should look pretty good, especially one you get the rest of them on ...
> music wire or brass wire for the rest ??


The grab irons will be brass.

Ed


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

All the stanchions and hand rails are on. I sprayed on a second coat of primer. When the primer is dry it will be ready for paint. I have a new Paasche single action air brush that I need to test and get familiar with first. It has a #1 #3 and #5 needle and I will be using Tru-Color paint.

Ed


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## Krieglok (Sep 7, 2013)

Ed, you are very talented! Your metal work and milling is really impressive. 

I have a tough time working in O scale with plastic but you make it look easy in HO and with metal to boot. 

I can’t wait to see the finished project.

Tom


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

Krieglok said:


> Ed, you are very talented! Your metal work and milling is really impressive.
> 
> I have a tough time working in O scale with plastic but you make it look easy in HO and with metal to boot.
> 
> ...


Tom, thanks for the nice comment.

This morning I painted the the shell and frame with Tru-Color TCP-077 Silver. I used a Paasche type H single action with a #5 needle. The paint was used straight out of the bottle and sprayed exceptionally nice. I will let it sit for a couple of days then mask off the shell to paint the orange stripe.

Ed


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

now that looks nice


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

wvgca said:


> now that looks nice


wvgca, Thanks for the reply.

I intended to make the drop down grab irons out of brass. I did not have the correct size and the local supplier did not have what I needed. So I used music wire that was annealed to make it bendable.

Here are some pictures of the processes I used. I measured the width of the holes on the shell then using that measurement I drilled a hole in a piece of steel I had. I inserted the wire in one hole and bent it over the side then placed it in the 2 holes and lightly hammed it down flush. To get the drop down shape I used a piece of thin plastic glued to the vice as a gauge. I rested the grab iron on the plastic and closed the vice then bent the legs flat. The all came out exactly the same.

Ed


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## rsv1ho (Oct 16, 2019)

I'm enjoying this thread. Keep up the good work.


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

Some good news and bad news. 

I am having trouble masking off the side of the shell to paint the orange stripe. The tape keeps popping up on the high and low spots. If I try pressing it down with the burnishing tool as I go then I cant get a straight even line. I have tried Tamiya tape and pin striping tape and the results are the same.

The good news is I will do another paint scheme. The shell will be painted Gray and Yellow like the picture shown below which I found on the internet. The masking will be much easier.

Ed


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## ebtnut (Mar 9, 2017)

Is there some way to do an orange decal stripe? Might have to be in several pieces/sections but saves all the taping issues.


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

ebtnut said:


> Is there some way to do an orange decal stripe? Might have to be in several pieces/sections but saves all the taping issues.


It would be an awful big stripe to apply. Here is a picture of the paint scheme I was attempting to do.

Ed


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

In the "exactly how do they do that" category -- yeah, you know, how exactly do they do that? All those bumps and valleys to cover over would be a problem for just about any tape. Is it possible to use something more squashable, like a wax perhaps that still pulls off easily? (the problem there being getting a nice straight line... although again perhaps with a careful application, cutting or trimming the edge -- that can be attained... )


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## ebtnut (Mar 9, 2017)

You might consider this - I believe that at a good artists' supply store you can get a liquid masking material intended to be used on the canvas/paper to mask off areas you don't want color. Try masking off the area for orange with tape as best you can to get the straight line, then use the masking liquid along the seam. Take off the tape and if there is a bit of leakage here and there you can remove it carefully with a knife. Then mask off the rest of the body with tape overlapping the masking agent area and spray.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

With zero first hand experience, I just repeat what I found poking around. Some folks like this: 3M Fine Line.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company...6717+8719368+8743646+8743767+3294857497&rt=r3


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## holava (Aug 8, 2015)

EdC said:


> It would be an awful big stripe to apply. Here is a picture of the paint scheme I was attempting to do.
> 
> Ed


I like it this way !


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

vallejo make a half decent liquid mask , not sure how it would be on the straight edge though ..?


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

Severn said:


> With zero first hand experience, I just repeat what I found poking around. Some folks like this: 3M Fine Line.
> 
> Hi Severn, That is one of the tapes I was using, 3M vinyl tape. I could not keep it in a straight line. Any way I have the problem solved with the new paint scheme.
> 
> Ed


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

It seems an insurmountable problem to me. how do the manufacturers do it?


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

Severn said:


> It seems an insurmountable problem to me. how do the manufacturers do it?


I also have wondered that. Maybe I can search for the answer.

Ed


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

I found the answer, the manufacturers use copper painting masks that fit tight over the shell. Check out this video on Utube it is at the beginning of the video.






Ed


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## SteamEraModeler (Dec 7, 2019)

Hi Ed,

I love what you've got going so far. I love buying old "not so perfect" brass models and reviving them too!!

As far as your masking problem goes, I wonder if you're using painters tape or regular masking tape? I find
that sometimes, painters tape doesn't have enough grip to hold over taller protruding surfaces, so I'll use
standard masking tape instead. I'll use a clean surface to stick the tape down onto and pull it off a couple of
times to take just a little bit of the tackiness off the tape before using it.

Also, I'm not sure how you're masking it off, are you masking to "make" the line or are you painting your line
color first, then using a piece of tape cut to the width you want your line to be, then painting your overall color?
Sometimes, one will work when the other won't. Just an idea you might try.

Anyway, it's looking good, keep it up!!
Patrick


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

Yeah, ok ... I had this vague idea before watching it:

i have this idea of some material like silicon, formed into the outline (mask) of what is desired.. so that when the shell is pressed into it to certain pressure & alignment, the form fills the peaks and valleys of face of the model to be painted in a uniform way -- and paint can be consistently applied to the resulting mask -- and it will be a nice straight, uniform result.

.. not sure my description is anything anyone can make sense of ... or that it would work but if it did work, except for the upfront time & costs of building the jig -- it would be fast.


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## Trainmasters (Sep 15, 2018)

What great work! I love this thread! :appl:

Rene


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## Murv2 (Nov 5, 2017)

There is a mask that rc car guys use, I just went to the local hobby shop, paint on, gently peel off.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

Having never tried this, I think the easiest is to spray paint the area where the strips go first, then mask with tape of the right width, then spray the overall color and remove the stripe mask.


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

Thanks guys for the comments and I am happy to know it is a enjoyable thread.

Today I took one step backwards. I media blasted the brass shell and removed the paint and primer. I may just primer the frame instead of media blasting it. The next few days will be in the 70's so I should be able to primer and paint. 

Ed


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

Yesterday I primed the shell and frame. Today I painted both pieces Erie/Lackawanna gray. When the gray dries I will paint the nose,rear and pilot Erie/Lackawanna yellow.
Ed


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

I was finally able to get it painted in between the windy and rainy days we have been having. The colors are Erie Lackawanna Yellow and Gray. I used Tru-color paints TCP-142 gray and TCP-144 yellow. Now I need to get some decals, lights and number boards.

Ed


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## rsv1ho (Oct 16, 2019)

Great job Ed, enjoying your thread.


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

I am still waiting for my custom decals. In the mean time I reassembled the motor and trucks to the frame. When testing it on the track it had a clicking sound going forward only. I disconnected the front truck and the clicking went away. I found a bur on the brass worm gear which I removed with a needle file now it runs nice and smooth. I also made some light lenses out of clear plastic stock for the front and rear. They still need to be rounded on the end and polished. I also made a square block of brass to mount under the frame which added a nice amount of weight. 

Ed


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

that block of brass underneath is a nice addition !


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

do you want an alco rsd4/5 [in brass] to add to the collection ...origional mfgr was kumata in 1977


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## Kieta (Nov 6, 2018)

This thread is awesome, some quality work here!!!


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

wvgca said:


> do you want an alco rsd4/5 [in brass] to add to the collection ...origional mfgr was kumata in 1977


I would like to have Alco RSD 4/5. However it would not work on my shelf layout. I can only use 40 ft cars and short 4 wheel truck diesel engines on the John Allen layout. I am looking for a GP 7 or 9 hi nose diesel.

Ed


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

EdC said:


> I would like to have Alco RSD 4/5. However it would not work on my shelf layout. I can only use 40 ft cars and short 4 wheel truck diesel engines on the John Allen layout. I am looking for a GP 7 or 9 hi nose diesel.
> 
> Ed



too bad it won't work on your shelf layout ... it's just going to sit in the display here, doesn't fit into 1890's either, lol
oh well, it was just an idea ...


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

While I am waiting for the decals I decided to rewire the motor and trucks with plugs. The plugs with wires are from Evan Designs and cost $1.00 each (you get a male and female plug with 8 inches of wire on each plug). A piece of styreen is super glued to the bronze strip that holds the top motor brush in place. Then I glued both black plugs to the plastic. I purposely used a female plug for the motor and a male plug for the trucks. The Digitrax encoder will be mounted in the roof of the cab with a male and female plug which will prevent plugging the wrong cable into the wrong socket. So the encoder, wiring and lights will stay in the cab when separated.

Ed


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## Trainmasters (Sep 15, 2018)

EdC said:


> I am looking for a GP 7 or 9 hi nose diesel.
> Ed


If brass is what your looking for in a GP7, 9 there is a nice one on the bay right now cheap. 

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/VAN-HOBBIES...022192?hash=item2d01efd130:g:VZMAAOSw6eleGnXu

Rene


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

Trainmasters said:


> If brass is what your looking for in a GP7, 9 there is a nice one on the bay right now cheap.Rene


Thank's for the link. That is definitely a nice brass GP 7. What I really want is a project that needs lots of work. I enjoy running trains but I get more enjoyment working on them. 

Ed


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

Well after a month of waiting and broken promises I cancelled the custom decal order and my money was refunded.

I found some decal sheets on Ebay by k4_pacific. Has anybody here tried them. If so please let me know.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/K4-HO-Deca...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Ed


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

I haven't used any of thier product, but it seems not bad?? Just generic letters, doesn't say if they were inkjet or laser, least i couldn't find it ..


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## Murv2 (Nov 5, 2017)

I used some K4, I was impressed at how thin they were, they kept wrapping under the paper when I slid them off.


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

Murv2, Thanks for the input. I ordered 4 different sizes. 

Ed


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

I finally put some decals on the GP 20. The SW stands for a fictional RR called South West. Next I will install some number boards that I painted black and then install the white number on them.

Ed


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## rsv1ho (Oct 16, 2019)

Looks nice Ed. Imagine you got them from K4Pacific.

What sizes? Looking to dress up my Varney belt drive.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

i wouldn't guess they are decals


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## rsv1ho (Oct 16, 2019)

Severn said:


> i wouldn't guess they are decals



_I finally put some decals on the GP 20._

I know, they look perfect, very undecal like.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

there's no discernible edge to them really. perhaps up closer it would be more apparent. are they water decals?


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

rsv1ho said:


> Looks nice Ed. Imagine you got them from K4Pacific.
> 
> What sizes? Looking to dress up my Varney belt drive.


The decals are *(K4 HO Decals White Railroad Roman Letter Number Alphabet Set)*

I used 3/32" for the number boards
3/16" for the numbers under the window
1/2" for the SW on the side ( it is called G scale)

I sprayed the area for the decals with clear gloss first. And I wet the area with Micro Set first then applied the decals. Before it dried I used Micro Sol on the large SW to get it soft then used a small stiff brush to move the large W down into the groves. Once everything is completed and dry I will spray the entire shell with dull coat. I found out you don't want to move them around too much. Once they stick they will tear if moved. I purchased the decals on Ebay.

Ed


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/K4-HO-Deca...oman-Letter-Number-Alphabet-Set-/192572766519

I've never had a bit of luck with water decals. obviously i don't know what i'm doing!


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## rsv1ho (Oct 16, 2019)

Welcome to the club.

I have set a lot of decals in my model plane, car, and train hobbies. Some turned out well, others not so.

Kicked around ebay for awhile. Lot's of train related decals there, Boston and Maine (my interest) and others. Found micro-set and some decals that I can use. Putting together an order. 

Thanks Ed.


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

The black number boards are installed and the decals are on. When they are dry I will spray the GP 20 with dull coat. Then I can start working on the lens's and installing the wiring.

Ed


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

Really looks great. Did you sand the paint between coats?


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

Severn said:


> Really looks great. Did you sand the paint between coats?


I blasted the brass shell with pumice. Then sprayed the shell with Tamiya gray primer. Then using my air brush I sprayed the shell with Erie Lackawana Gray paint by Tru-Color. Then spray painted the yellow over the gray paint. No sanding in between.

Ed


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

Yesterday I sprayed the shell with True-color clear flat with my air brush, It came out semi gloss and did not look good. So today I bought some Testors dull coat # 1260 and now the paint has a nice flat finish to it. Plus it hides the edge of the decals even more.

Ed


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

In a previous post I made 4 head light lens's. Today I polished all four lens and installed them on the shell with a dab of glue. Then I used some heat shrink to go over the lens's that happen to be 5mm ID. Using a test jig I inserted a 5mm LED into the heat shrink. Looks like it will work OK. So now I can start the wiring and install the decoder in the shell.

Ed


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

Well The GP 20 is finally finished. The first picture is what I started with. The second picture is the decoder installed in the shell with the lights and 2 connectors. The trucks, gas tank and air tanks are painted with Model Master Grimy Black Flat # 4887. The lights go on and off with the direction. And the engine runs smooth and quiet. This was a challenging and fun project and I think I would do it again if I find another brass engine.

Thanks for all the interest, Ed


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## Murv2 (Nov 5, 2017)

Beautiful!


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

It came out looking very nice indeed.
A fun thread to follow, really enjoyed it.

Magic


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

looks great, i'd never be able to pull it off myself though!


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

That looks great. You did a very nice job on that.


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

Very nicely done!


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

Thank you for all the kind comments.

Ed


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

*Mars Light*

I programmed my Digitrax DH126PS for a Mars light to test it out.

I set CV51=3, CV49=2, CV33=1 I won't leave like this I just wanted to see how it works.






Ed


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## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

Looks fantastic! You went well beyond a rescue and did it up right.

One question, are you planning on glazing the windows? Even just some acrylic sheet glued behind the window frames would look quite good.


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## rsv1ho (Oct 16, 2019)

It might interest you to know that your effort inspired me to build a poor mans example out of an old Varney belt drive locomotive.

Not any where in the same league as yours, but I'm proud of it. Got another one to do with a B unit.


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## daschnoz (Dec 12, 2016)

Eilif said:


> Looks fantastic! You went well beyond a rescue and did it up right.
> 
> One question, are you planning on glazing the windows? Even just some acrylic sheet glued behind the window frames would look quite good.


Soda bottles work well also.


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

One question, are you planning on glazing the windows? Even just some acrylic sheet glued behind the window frames would look quite good.[/QUOTE]

Yes I will install the windows. I saved some thin plastic material that was part of some Christmas packages. I need to pick up some canopy glue first.

Ed


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

Hi rsv1ho,

The old Varney looks new again. And I like the gray shell with the silver trucks. Do you have it running?

Ed


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## rsv1ho (Oct 16, 2019)

EdC said:


> Hi rsv1ho,
> 
> The old Varney looks new again. And I like the gray shell with the silver trucks. Do you have it running?
> 
> Ed


Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.  Using yours as an example.

But, low rent district, I just hit it with rattle can Krylon Smoke gray and classic gray for the top insert media blasted the shell first. Did the trucks in Krylon aluminum.

It's one of those weird belt drives, but uses a coiled steel spring as a belt. Superior IMHO to Hi-F rubber bands. Takes a lot of throttle to get it to move but releases at a low and steady pace.

Installed horns and ordered an Athearn window and grab bar kit for it.

Took your advise and ordered some micro sol/set. Big help in laying the decals which are nothing special, just what I had on hand. Cut the LVO out of Valvoline and used that. Low rent special. 

Bob

It's a work in progress.


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## Eilif (Nov 6, 2017)

daschnoz said:


> Soda bottles work well also.


That's pretty clever, especially for curved surfaces. 

I use packaging from toys.


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## Murv2 (Nov 5, 2017)

Where'd you get the window? I'm missing one right now.


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

rsv1ho, I was just looking at the A and B unit motor. I see it has 3 different sheaves to control the speed. Krylon is a nice paint it should work just fine. 

Ed


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## rsv1ho (Oct 16, 2019)

EdC said:


> rsv1ho, I was just looking at the A and B unit motor. I see it has 3 different sheaves to control the speed. Krylon is a nice paint it should work just fine.
> 
> Ed



Thanks, Krylon has been my go-to rattle can paint for some time now. I even painted my $250 purchased MG Midget with it.

Did the two die cast body shells yesterday media blasting that hideous blue green paint off first. Same gray as my first. Still have frames and the black one to do. All will be Va Line.

Yes, the outer most pully is the speed option, moderate middle and slow is the inner. Easy enough to change without disassembly


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

Nice MG! What kind of media are you using?

Ed


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## rsv1ho (Oct 16, 2019)

EdC said:


> Nice MG! What kind of media are you using?
> 
> Ed


Aluminum oxide from Harbor Freight, forgot the grit. Tried "Black Magic" but it clogged the gun.


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

I installed windows all around the cab. I wanted frosted windows. So I tried 600 grit sandpaper, 3M scratch pads, clear flat acrylic but I ended up media blasting the thin plastic which worked the best. The colors look a little off due to the close up using the flash. I media blasted the inside only so the outside is still shiny. 

Ed


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## rsv1ho (Oct 16, 2019)

Fantastic Ed, after all that work I hope your not going to weather it. Looks great as is.

Bob


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## EdC (Feb 10, 2017)

rsv1ho said:


> Fantastic Ed, after all that work I hope your not going to weather it. Looks great as is.
> 
> Bob


Hi Bob, I think I will leave it alone. I do have a spare Athearn shell that I plan on painting and doing some experimental weathering with the air brush.

Ed


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