# Lionel 022 switch repairs made easy part 2



## Rich (Dec 14, 2013)

Thanks to my very smart neighbor Sharon, she has shown this computer illiterate how to post the picture. So here it is, This will take care of over 95% of switch problems for you. I am still working on a more advanced repair and will post as soon as is tested many times as proven.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

The advice on your post is bad. Shorting out the sliding switch in the switch motor may result in burned out coils in the switch machine. Using a blue crimp lug for the fixed voltage is OK except it doesn't work with the later switches. The lug is very slightly too small to go over the pin.

You will find a very complete post on restoring 022 switches at
http://cs.trains.com/ctt/f/95/t/164691.aspx


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## Rich (Dec 14, 2013)

*Comments regarding repairing of 022 switches*

I whole heartily agree with your comments that in an ideal world it is best to try to restore the switch to it's original function. I have purchased at train shows about 20 switches of which over 1/2 did not work properly due to switch malfunctions. In some cases cleaning the contacts (yup, wd40 works fine) and that solved the issues. In other cases where the contacts have gone so far out of adjustment, it would have required a total rebuild, and at my age, the old tech hands are not as steady as they used to be, so I resolved to my suggested solution. Regarding shorting out the coil issue. The 1122 027 and the K line switches function the same as shorting out the switch I suggested, they seem to work just fine. The coil actually draws about 1.5 amps energized, and the magnet wire used, will handle that quite well. 

Your suggestion of soldering the contacts on the bottom of the switches is excellent, but not for an inexperienced solderer. To much heat or too much solder and the you will short out the rail to ground. Another suggestion would be to solder a 22 gauge or so wire right on the switching rail and route into the switching assembly. 

Regarding the blue butt connector you are also correct re the smaller size of the newer switch (2.5 mm actually) but there seems to be enough pressure from the switching contacts to make it work ok, or if you wish a gentle squish with a long nose pliers will also work fine. Please do not misunderstand, I absolutely agree if you can repair the original design, absolutely do it. But the solution I suggested is intended to be an alternative to an expensive repair, or throwing the damaged switch out. Thanks so much for your very knowledgeable response. 
ps If you are going to be doing this kind of work may I suggest you invest in a used Fluke 73 meter off of ebay? The harbor Freight variety just are not stable enough, and do not have the diode function, along with a good quality continuity testor.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

I have a couple of Fluke meters and an old Mercer meter in addition to several of the ones from Harbor Freight. I graduated from engineering school 50 years ago with a BS math and an MSEE, so fixing things like 022 switches isn't difficult for me. I have never referenced a repair manual to fix my trains since I got my first one in 1950, and only once have I taken anything to a hobby shop to be repaired. This was to get a wheel replaced that had become loose. It was about 1955. 

The newer switches will not accept a blue crimp connector. The pin on the older switches has two saw cuts at 90 deg to each other. The new switches have a single saw cut, and so the pin is ever so slightly larger.

I have over 100 022 switches, and have repaired most of them. It is a labor of love as I like to make floor layouts that have many switches.

You can get by shorting the sliding switches if you keep the voltage on the switches low enough. I use 20 volts from a KW for the constant voltage plug, and at this voltage the coils will probably smoke if left on. I have always found that I could adjust the sliding contacts so they work properly.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

BTW, don't throw any 022 switches away. Send them to me. I'll pay the postage.


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## Rich (Dec 14, 2013)

Sounds like we come from similar backgrounds, great info, thanks


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Bruce ought to condense that CTT thread and put it here in our sticky O thread.
With some pictures.

T man did this on the O/22, it is in the Sticky O help thread,

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=1050


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Posting pictures Rich,
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=2595

What I do to post a picture,
1,When your typing your thread, look up top & click on the paper clip.

2,That opens a box then click browse.

3,That will open another box find your picture where ever it is in your computer. (say downloads,camera,files wherever your picture is.)
When you find the picture click on it then click open, it will then be in your box where you clicked browse.

4, Then click upload, wait to make sure it uploads.

5, After it uploads go back to your post box where you are typing and click the paper clip again and click insert attachments. Don't forget to go back to the post box and click a second time.

Your picture should be in the thread.
Note, if the picture won't upload most likely it is too big.

If you can't see the white smiley face or paper clip let me know it is an easy fix in your CP that you have to change.

Try the above here, with a test picture.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

servoguy said:


> I have never referenced a repair manual to fix my trains since I got my first one in 1950, and only once have I taken anything to a hobby shop to be repaired.


You must get a lot of smoke out of the new electronics if you repair those! With unlabeled connectors, having a wiring diagram is pretty much mandatory for me.


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## servoguy (Jul 10, 2010)

I run mostly post war and MPC stuff. I have one RailKing 2-8-8-2 which has some electronics, but so far it hasn't failed. If I had a failure of the electronics in a loco, I would definitely get a wiring diagram. I have fixed some of the early electronic E units without a diagram. Just back engineered the circuit board.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I tend to work mostly on the command stuff with lots of little circuit boards, plenty of unlabeled wires running around, I like to have documentation. This has minimized my release of the _magic smoke_ from the stuff I work on.


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## Rich (Dec 14, 2013)

Hi Servo guy! Looks like I am following in your footsteps, I am up to 57 switches that I have repaired. Have a bunch more I could fix if I could find replacements for the rivets on the sliding switch. Are these available from Lionel? do they have a part number? Are generic rivets available and ok? It looks like the shaft diameter is 3/32 of an inch, but am not positive.


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## carinofranco (Aug 1, 2012)

Rich said:


> Hi Servo guy! Looks like I am following in your footsteps, I am up to 57 switches that I have repaired. Have a bunch more I could fix if I could find replacements for the rivets on the sliding switch. Are these available from Lionel? do they have a part number? Are generic rivets available and ok? It looks like the shaft diameter is 3/32 of an inch, but am not positive.


OK, I can't resist.. I have also restored about 57 (pairs) of o22 switches. I just love them. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

The rivets are indeed available, try The Train Tender, that's where I got mine.


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