# Latest N scale addition to my DCC fleet



## JohnAP (May 4, 2011)

Just finished up the Digitrax DN 144K installation on this, the first of two, Kato C44-9Ws. I have a couple questions for you DCC installer gurus:










The instructions say to splt the frame, then put kaptan tape over the motor brush caps in case they slip out of alignment and contact the frame? This motor has plastic strips across the top and bottom of the motor cage directly over the brush caps, see pic:










Is it really necessary to tape these over? It's a real pain in the buttocks, not to mention having to completely dissasemble the motor and drive train to be able to get the motor out to do it in the first place.










The instructions also say, in CAPITAL LETTERS: DO NOT REMOVE KAPTAN TAPE FROM BOTTOM OF DECODER BOARD. Well, there WAS NO tape on the bottom of the decoder board, it was wrapped around the middle of the board, which is the TOP! Anyhow, I went ahead and done her the way the instructions say and it works fine, didn't even lose any parts! (well, I did temporarily, but I found it again!) I did misplace the damn horn though....


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

The number 1 thing with any install is to make sure that no control output or control circuit touches the power portion!
That is the newer style of motor, it does have some protection from touching, but it's always better to be safe than sorry!
If the decoder has any circuits connections on the bottom of the board it's better to insulate, than watch the magic smoke go up in the air!


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## waltr (Aug 15, 2011)

I'll agree with Sean, smoke from a decoder is not something you want to witness, it really tends to irritate your eyes.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

And you wallet!!!


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## Xnats (Dec 5, 2010)

That is a nice looking engine John, congrats :thumbsup:

What is the big deal about a smoked decoder  It is as easy to replace as telling the wife "NO" when she ask for gas money. When your son ask for icecream from the icecream truck, saying "REALLY did you clean your room like I asked?". Bingo, money for a new decoder is had :laugh: I'll admit, pride is what takes the biggest hit  live and learn though


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## JohnAP (May 4, 2011)

*The set of C44s*

OK, here's the other C44-9W, Chicago and Northwestern 8814 in custom paint and Operation Lifesaver livery, along with Norfolk Southern 9250 in custom paint Operation Lifesaver livery. Both now have Digitrax DN144K decoders installed.











Has anyone installed working ditchlights in one of these? Both have ditch lights, but they are from a light pipe molded in with the headlight. I've seen other locos where you cut the light pipe into sections, glue it back in, then install LEDs behind the indiviual ditch light light pipes. The LEDs are then wired to the function outputs of the decoder. Maybe smd with the resistors mounted back in the top of the loco shell?


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

There are several different ways to do the ditch lights on those. You have the right Idea how to do it. 
I could supply you with the SMD LED's, and the resistors if you need them. It's best to install the Resistors right to the decoder, they do put off some heat and mounting them on the body could be bad! If you want to you can also change the decoder to a SDN144K1E for sound.


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## JohnAP (May 4, 2011)

*An unexpected addition*

Got this guy for $39, advertised as an Atlas/Kato GP 35 from an estate sale. Popped the shell off, and voila! A Digitax DN93FX decoder had already been installed! Runs great, the only thing wrong is the person that wired it got the lights backwards!


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Easy Fix change CV49 from 0 to 16 and CV50 from 16 to 0.


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## JohnAP (May 4, 2011)

Sean,

That didn't work! All it did was turn off the forward light altogether, the reverse light still comes on when the loco is going forward! The LEDs' are being powered from the track power, not using the blue wire as common. Would switching the track power leads work? Of course, you would have to unsolder and flip the LEDs as well to maintain proper polarity on them, correct?


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

EWWWWWW They hooked it up like that....Cheaters!
You will need to switch the motor output wires!


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## JohnAP (May 4, 2011)

As in disassemble, swap leads to the motor, re-assemble?


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Yep unless you can swap the lead at the decoder!


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Option #2 swap the yellow and white wires!


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## JohnAP (May 4, 2011)

No swapping the leads at the decoder. I don't think there is enough of the black track power wire from the decoder left to reach the bottom of the motor. Option # 2 could work easiest, if there is enough yellow wire to reach the front, if not, it'd be a heck of a lot easier to splice in a piece rather than tearing the whole loco apart and having to splice a wire to the motor.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

I'm getting a little worried about this Decoder install!!!! Black to motor??? Should be Gray (normally bottom) to motor and Orange (normally top) to motor, Blue or one track pickup and Yellow front light, Blue or one track pickup and White back light, Red to the right track pick up and Black to the left track pick up!


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## JohnAP (May 4, 2011)

My bad, you can see the orange wire in the photo going to the bottom of the motor. You can also see the white wire going to the front light, yellow to the rear light.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Oh good...If you can swap the 2 light wires and you'll be good to go!
Swapping motor leads would be optimal but that can me a bit difficult on those little guys when the wires are cut too short.
Oh and swapping the pick-up leads will really scramble it up! avoid that at all cost! 
That decoder is an old monster, if it acts jumpy, doggy, or slow to respond, I would beet that the decoder is to blame more than the mechanical portion of the engine.


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## JohnAP (May 4, 2011)

Swapped the yellow and white wires. The forward light came on like it should while going forward, and went out when going in reverse. The revers light wanted to stay on all the time. After test running the loco backwards and forwards, just before I was about to put the shell back on, the reverse LED died. I tried another LED around it, worked fine. I think when I get the time this weekend I'm going to replace both the LEDs, cause I don't care all that much for the overly yellow ones that came on it.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Give me a shout if you need some LED's for it I have a few hanging around.
That is the disadvantage to not hooking up the blue wire, LED's take the hit from the track voltage and amperage!


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## JohnAP (May 4, 2011)

Got the reverse LED replaced. The lights actualy function as they are supposed to, even though it looks a little funny with the yellow headlight and white reverse. I'm off work sunday, so I should have time to replace the forward lLED and she'll be good to go!


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