# "Best" coupler to standardize on?



## Walman (Dec 18, 2011)

I am in the process of building my first layout (HO scale DCC 15' X 15' L-shaped shelf) and literally have 1 engine and maybe 5 cheap rolling stock so essentially starting from scratch. The engine came with Kadee knuckle couplers installed but a couple others I can switch out. I know there are many other considerations but since I am essentially going to be building all my inventory from scratch is there a particular coupler you recommend I should standardize on? I just assumed I would by my stock and convert to Kadee as needed but in looking at prices I see that is not very economical (but correct me if I wrong). Provide this newb with your thoughts please.

Thanks much!

Walman


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## broox (Apr 13, 2012)

I'd go to Kadees, it seems like a good, reliable standard.

I've never used them before, i have cheap plastic lifelike horn hooks, but i will be going to Kadees. some of the newer (to me, still second hand) stuff i'm purchasing is coming withKadees installed, so its a step in the right direction.

also Metal wheels are a good purchase too, they're heavier, roll better, and all this = less derailments


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## Prospect193 (Nov 30, 2011)

Kadees for sure!!!


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## Guest (Nov 26, 2012)

Mantuas. I have been gathering them from far and near for a long time, fitting them up on wagons as time permits.
Before there were Kadees, they were the most widely used couplings.
It drives the purists crazy.


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

Make sure you get the all metal Kadees. 

Avoid McHenry and Accumate. They are all plastic. Some of them use an acetal return spring for the "hand" part of the coupler. Some actually use a small coil spring though.
These do break quite easily though.

Kadees will break, but it has to be a big hit, like a fall from a table...personal experience.


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## NIMT (Jan 6, 2011)

Kadee metal couplers #5's or #148's.
There is an exception to using the metal Kadee's, that is on any Athearn Blue Box locos and DCC use. You need to use the Plastic Kadee's for these installs otherwise you run the risk of shorting the rails. One side of the trucks powers the frame and one set powers the motor, put them back to back or face to face and you have a short situation.


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## MarkVIIIMarc (Oct 19, 2012)

Interesting on the Athearn motors.

I prefer the 148 whiskers to the old #5's. Cleaner assembly. No flat funny piece to warp.


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## Smokinapankake (Sep 8, 2011)

Kadees are ugly, in my mind. I've been using Accu-Mate's for lotso years with no problems. Plus they don't short out on Athearn locomotives. They look better than Kadee's, too, without the highly unrealistic copper spring.

They can be harder to find, though.

Durability is a non-issue. Others talk about their Kadee's surviving a fall to the floor, but in my experience, once trains start falling off the table you have a much bigger problem than weak couplers. I've pulled 35 car long trains with Accumate's, mishandling the train intentionally trying to break them but no dice. Just to prove a point, you know. I found that the cars would be damaged before the coupler itself. I've coupled 15 locomotives together, doing the same thing with no ill effects. I really like Accu-Mates. But that's just me.


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

I use the Kadee #5 for most of my trains. I buy them in the bulk pack of 20. When I change out the old tyco talgo truck mounted coupler I use #5 with the talgo truck adapters #212. I like the truck mounted coupler as they can take tighter turns.

Look at Kadee's website and you can find a pdf file showing which couplers work best for which trains. Make sure that you have them at the right hight.


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## tooter (Feb 26, 2010)

MarkVIIIMarc said:


> Interesting on the Athearn motors.
> 
> I prefer the 148 whiskers to the old #5's. Cleaner assembly. No flat funny piece to warp.


I second Mark's suggestion. 
Kadees are very well made. Everything I have gets #148's...












Their logging kits are also very high quality...


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

Now that's a cute caboose. I like cute cabooses. Ha! Pete


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## t44florida (Oct 24, 2012)

Guest I'm odd man out... I use Rapido. Aj


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## broox (Apr 13, 2012)

Hey choo choo,
these are those logging cars, right? they look awesome!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kadee-New-H...312788?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item5d35c8d554


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

t44florida said:


> Guest I'm odd man out... I use Rapido. Aj


 Do you model HO? this is an HO section.


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## Guest (Nov 27, 2012)

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff514/3shaygetz/IMG_5300-640.jpg
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff514/3shaygetz/IMG_5303-640.jpg

And those are on Shaygetz's website.....

Saw a photo once of a hobbyist holding the end of a car......arm straight up in the air.....and a full string of cars all with Mantua couplings stretching clear to the floor.
They do hold together.
No unwanted uncouplings......
Dave


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## jjb727 (Apr 13, 2012)

i usually witch with KD #148. Its the easiest one to use for me w/out any hassles. I don't like the ones where I have to use the "centering spring". Its just more work that really doesn't need to be added to the work I already have to do.


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

I have not had the problem with the Kadees shorting out on the Athearn Blue Box locos. The BB's that I get tend to have the original coupler coverers missing, so I drill and tap a 256 hole and use a kadee coupler and box, so it's all insulated at that point.


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## tooter (Feb 26, 2010)

broox said:


> Hey choo choo,
> these are those logging cars, right? they look awesome!
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kadee-New-HO-KIT-Disconnect-Log-Car-w-o-Logs-KAD107-/400334312788?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item5d35c8d554


 
Yes. 





 
The all metal log buggies come as a kit and the trucks have real spring suspension. Even the couplers have cushioning spring buffers on them so that the coupler arms extend when pulling force is applied to them. 

I'm a really big fan of Kadee's stuff.


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## tooter (Feb 26, 2010)

norgale said:


> Now that's a cute caboose. I like cute cabooses. Ha! Pete


I'll just "assume" that's a model railroad oriented comment, Pete. 

Greg


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## New Berlin RR (Feb 11, 2012)

I use the Kadees on my trains aside from a few UK/german engins that arn't able to get swapped over (non NEM equipped engines) most of mine have already seen the swapping of coupplers, I still have some stock left so I have been slowly swapping cars over as my funds allow and all that...I just ordered a new engine from the UK that I been looking for that has the NEM sockets on it so it will also most likely see the swap out happen


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## tooter (Feb 26, 2010)

New Berlin RR said:


> I use the Kadees on my trains aside from a few UK/german engins that arn't able to get swapped over (non NEM equipped engines)


Even non NEM European engines can be adapted to Kadees. 
I did this Fleischmann Eloc with Kadee #149 long overshank couplers...


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## jjb727 (Apr 13, 2012)

rrgrassi said:


> I have not had the problem with the Kadees shorting out on the Athearn Blue Box locos. The BB's that I get tend to have the original coupler coverers missing, so I drill and tap a 256 hole and use a kadee coupler and box, so it's all insulated at that point.


the only way I could imagine a coupler shorting out the track is if it touches both rails. That's HIGHLY unlikely unless it something bends a lot.


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## broox (Apr 13, 2012)

or it connects to an all metal car that derails or something. not sure. but it must have happened to someone


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## Guest (Nov 28, 2012)

Think.
Two locos......the frame is one polarity of track power.....depending on how you set the locos on the track, using metal couplers, you could have a short from, oh, left wheels of lead loco through frame, through couplers, through frame of second loco, to right side wheels.....

I've run into it in 0 scale, too (2-rail).


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## mackdonn (Sep 26, 2012)

I with the majority on this one....Kadee is my choice. As far as a coupler causing a short. It's just as stated before, the only way that could happen is the trip pin is touching the rails or the case of a loco the coupler is not isolated from the metal frame. BOTH are really easy fixes that dont disqualify the Kadee coupler for me. I like the dependability. Loco's and cars that came with McHenry's have failed after very little running time. Have "yet" to have a Kadee fail...


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## Guest (Nov 28, 2012)

When I had to use them in "0" for club use, we bought both plastic and metal couplers. Swapped the boxes.
Plastic box with metal coupler or vice-versa.


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## norgale (Apr 4, 2011)

choo choo said:


> I'll just "assume" that's a model railroad oriented comment, Pete.
> 
> Greg


Ha! At least somebody here is thinking. You may assume that --or not. Pete


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## blackz28 (Jan 6, 2013)

the holy grail of couplers is KADEE. I have strayed to other couplers but i *ALWAYS* come back to kadee, made in usa & metal :thumbsup:


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## BNSF 1 (Dec 27, 2012)

Walman said:


> I am in the process of building my first layout (HO scale DCC 15' X 15' L-shaped shelf) and literally have 1 engine and maybe 5 cheap rolling stock so essentially starting from scratch. The engine came with Kadee knuckle couplers installed but a couple others I can switch out. I know there are many other considerations but since I am essentially going to be building all my inventory from scratch is there a particular coupler you recommend I should standardize on? I just assumed I would by my stock and convert to Kadee as needed but in looking at prices I see that is not very economical (but correct me if I wrong). Provide this newb with your thoughts please.
> 
> Thanks much!
> 
> Walman



I prefer kadee couplers. It is important to know that you don't have to change or convert all your rolling stock at once. Almost all rolling stock manufacturers have converted to knuckle couplers of some sort now days. The way I go about my coupler conversion is pretty straight forward and will work for anyone on a budget. I convert all locomotives couplers as soon as I receive them . I convert all rolling stock on a need to be done basis, only when one breaks, won't spring back to its center or when I have uncoupling problems .


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

Yep and make one car have a knuckle coupler at one end and the horn hook at the other so that you can run a variety of rolling stock. If you like the caboose to have knuckles also, then make two cars with the setup.


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## midnightmadman29 (Nov 2, 2012)

Aside for looks, whats the main advantage to the kadee couplers over good old horn hook?
Honestly I have tried the kadees and they seem a pit of a pita to get connected vs hook horn.


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## mackdonn (Sep 26, 2012)

Looks is a biggie but I like the fact that you can automatically uncouple with a magnet placed under the track on a siding since it also has metal trip pins. Cant do that with plastic hook horns. Oh did I mention looks...:laugh:


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## midnightmadman29 (Nov 2, 2012)

mackdonn said:


> Looks is a biggie but I like the fact that you can automatically uncouple with a magnet placed under the track on a siding since it also has metal trip pins. Cant do that with plastic hook horns. Oh did I mention looks...:laugh:


Oh I didn't realize you can do that. Can you explain how to do it?


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## fs2k4pilot (Jan 5, 2013)

I'm curious about this myself.


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## mackdonn (Sep 26, 2012)

It requires a magnet available from kadee or bachman placed under the track, preferably in the roadbed to hide it. As long as there is tension on the couplers they will remain closed. To uncouple just back over or pull over the magnet and provide slack and the couplers will open. it's done by the magnetic trip pins.


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

Check out this website, it will tell you how it all works.

http://www.kadee.com/animation/c1.htm


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## fs2k4pilot (Jan 5, 2013)

Interesting. Thanks!


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

I use mostly Kadee no. 5s. I do however have a few cars with bachmann couplers. When these wear out I'll replace them with Kadee 5s. With that said however, I have two Atlas engines that came with accumate couplers. I purchased them back in 2000, and both are still using the same couplers. That's thirteen years of service. I have two Bachmann engines that I purchased a little over a year ago which are still running on their original couplers as well. 

And what's even more interesting about this is that through these years I've used all of these engines for mainly switching. This involves the constant pulling, pushing of the couplers and they're all still runing on their originals
The one coupler that I don't like i s Mchenry. Whenever I buy an Athearn car I immediately change it's couplers over to Kadee #5s.

Routerman


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