# "I've got those Derailment Blues"



## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

First, I'm brand new to this hobby. I'll try to describe what I have as best I can while being away from my trains. I have a brand new layout consisting of old and new flextrack and some Bachman snap track. I have about 7 turnouts with a reverse loop. I recently bought a dozen used freight cars with a different style coupler then I'm currently using. I have a used GP40 and a few cars that all have the Kadee couplers. These run very well. I have changed the coupler on one end of one of the other cars so I can run them all together. I read that it’s better to have the couplers installed right to the body. If I change these couplers and attach them to the bodies, will I get better results? Would adding weight solve the issues? That would reduce the number of cars I can pull wouldn’t it? 
My tracks are not perfect either. I have some gaps at my gate but they don’t seem to be the cause of my derails. Most happen when I come to, or cross a turnout. All my turnouts are Atlas #6. 
I’d prefer to skip the frustration and get into smooth running trains. I have kids 6 to 10 years old that like to run these.


----------



## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

Gaps can actually help cause a derailment. 

Does the derailment happen at the same spots with the same cars/locomotives?

Added weight and metal wheels can help with the issue, but just like the real trains, good track is essential in minimizing derailment issues.


----------



## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

rrgrassi said:


> Gaps can actually help cause a derailment.
> 
> Does the derailment happen at the same spots with the same cars/locomotives?
> 
> Added weight and metal wheels can help with the issue, but just like the real trains, good track is essential in minimizing derailment issues.



I'll have to do a lot more testing to be able to answer that but it's only the cars. I get tired of putting the cars back on the tracks to run another test. Not fun. 


My turnouts bars don't have any tension on them to keep them in place right now. I bought a couple ofTortoise switch machines and I'm hoping that will solve some of the turnout issues.

I thought the rail joiners would do a better job of keeping things smooth but I haven't found that to always be true. I'm doing some filing here and there.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Get yourself one of these for putting the cars back on, they are not that expensive.
Every N scale RR should have one.
Just put the car on it and let it roll down onto the track.
Portable rerailer,









Also look to put a few of these in problem spots, rerailers, they act as crossing roads too.


----------



## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

I had no idea there was such a contraption as that portable rereailer. Cool.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Hutch said:


> I had no idea there was such a contraption as that portable rereailer. Cool.


They are not that expensive and make putting your cars and engines on easy.
It is good to have the other ones permanently on the layout too, most by the switches, if the train jumps at the switch it will automatically be rerailed.


----------



## timlange3 (Jan 16, 2013)

Hutch, body mounted couplers (any style) will work better than truck mounted couplers, you don't want the pulling strain going through the truck.

Get a NMRA track gauge for your scale and use it to check the rail spacing to make sure your rails (especially at the problem point) are the correct distance apart.

Also use the gauge to make sure all the wheels on all the cars and engines are the right distance apart. Most wheel sets on decent models are plastic/metal wheels on a metal axle that will allow you to twist one wheel and push/pull to get them the right distance apart.

Now that you checked/fixed your track and wheels to make sure they are 'in gauge', then visually inspect your track for kinks. Track should be straight or curved, no sudden bends.

Also look for spikes (or other things) set too high that would cause a wheel to hop off the rail.


----------



## Hutch (Dec 19, 2012)

timlange3 said:


> Hutch, body mounted couplers (any style) will work better than truck mounted couplers, you don't want the pulling strain going through the truck.
> 
> Thanks for the comfirmation on that point. I will definitely begin changing them over.
> 
> ...


So far I need to purchase a gauge and a portable rerailer and a few more rerailers near turnouts/problem areas.
Thank you all very much. Sounds like I'll be enjoying my trains a lot more after these steps.


----------



## Don Trinko (Oct 23, 2012)

For N scale the portable rerailer isIMO a necesity. They are only a few dollars on ebay. Don


----------



## MarkVIIIMarc (Oct 19, 2012)

I just revived my interest this summer.

My biggest reliabilty issues were odd coupler heights and unevenly weighted rolling stock.

If no one said anything about a kadee coupler height gauge, I love mine. Wish it was insulted though. I always leave it setting on the rails lol.


----------

