# Hornby r 52



## trains galore (Jul 22, 2013)

Hi everyone!
A little while back I bought an old r52 Jinty http://www.tri-ang.co.uk/J72.html
(same train just different transfers)
When I got it it barely even ran and tripped the power shut off on my transformer so I chucked it in my box of old train stuff.
Anyway I heard today they aren't bad if you can get the motor going good
So I got it out and played with it a bit. I cleaned the commutator and brushes with methylated spirits. Now the mechanisim seems fine, it isn't jammed up.

Problem is, when I put the chassis on the track for a run, it sparked like a lighter and smoked a little (maybe the methylated spirits burning off) and I could see sparks flying off the brushes.
It's an old x04 motor 



























The commutator gets burning hot, I don't know yet if it's because of all the brushes arcing or a short in the windings.
I can get another used motor off ebay for about $20 (claiming to be a good runner) or should I just try some new brushes first.

Or I could try and fit a new motor, I have heard of people using cd tray motors...the price of getting x04 parts in good condition is just ridiculous, and I am VERY wary of buying a 2nd hand motor because it is still an old motor and I need something smooth and reliable. 
Shame since I really like this train I know it's 30+ years old but if I can get some new parts/ do a motor conversion that would be perfect
Right now I think I need a new motor and brusheshwell:
Here it is:


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## brownwolf66 (Jul 9, 2013)

Hi,

These XO4 motors are hardy and very reliable.I can vouch for them as the first set my father bought for me way back in 1955 has an XO4 motor and it runs as good as the day it was made.

Before you spend a lot of money on a second hand motor,I would suggest you replace the brushes and the magnet first.Seeing as you have removed the magnet and the back plate,the magnet would have definitely gone weaker than it was.The sparking you see would be due to worn carbon brushes and a dirty commutator.(If cleaning and replacing the brushes and magnet still don't solve the problem,the parts can be used if you decide to buy a secondhand motor.)

To clean the commutator,take a cotton swab dipped in just the thin liquid part of Brasso.Place it between the top plate of the motor and the commutator and gently rotate the commutator until it shines.Be careful not to let any cotton fibers snag on the coil solder points that are visible as it could break the coil.

Then take an Exacto blade and very,very carefully clean the three slots between the commutator segments.Start at one end and with gentle pressure pull the blade down to the other end.Wipe the blade before you repeat the process.This operation *HAS* to be done very cautiously so as to not scratch the commutator.

I recommend you replace the magnet with a Neodymium one as this will greatly reduce the current consumed by the motor and will make slow running much better.A drop of oil on the felt pads front and rear goes a long way.

After you replace the brushes,run in the motor starting at a slow speed and then increasing gradually.Run for at least an hour to bed the carbon brushes.

I hope I have explained this simply and if you do have any queries do ask.The link for the magnet is below.I think you know where to find the brushes.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-GRADE-N52-SUPER-NEO-MAGNET-FOR-HORNBY-TRIANG-SCALEXTRIC-X04-MOTOR-/380847057562?pt=UK_Trains_Railway_Models&hash=item58ac40ea9a

brownwolf66


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## brownwolf66 (Jul 9, 2013)

PS:Use Isopropyl Alchohol to clean parts,it does not contain water.It also evaporates quickly and is relatively non-toxic, compared to alternative solvents. Thus, it is used widely as a solvent and as a cleaning fluid, especially for dissolving oils


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## trains galore (Jul 22, 2013)

Ok thanks for the information
At the moment I'm halfway through a motor swap, I'll let you know how it goes:laugh:
The old hornby motors were pretty decent but looking online the price of buying the parts for them is ludicrous! $20 just for the brushes especially bearing in mind they are still old parts. I guess they are just in demandhwell:.

I'm using a cd motor for the conversion, will put up some pics later I'm using the old burnt out motor for this so if it doesn't work out I'll get another original motor off ebay


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## brownwolf66 (Jul 9, 2013)

trains galore said:


> I'm using a cd motor for the conversion, will put up some pics later I'm using the old burnt out motor for this so if it doesn't work out I'll get another original motor off ebay


Sure would like to see some pics of how you use a CD motor for conversion.The old XO4 motors very rarely burnt out.


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## trains galore (Jul 22, 2013)

I started it today, here is where I am so far:
I'd like to make a proper bracket to hold the motor but for testing I used a cable tie
When I put power straight to the motor terminals, it runs beautifully if a little noisy, I can't start too slow but if I rev up and then carefully ease the throttle down and I can get the wheels going very slow

PROBLEM is, when I put it on the actual track, it runs horribly and needs me to keep pushing it and it will suddenly accelerate Also sparks fly off the wheels
I'm thinking this is either to do with the wheels or the pickups. Given that it runs ok in the cleaning cradle, I think it must be a problem with the wheels. I cleaned them in the cradle, but the metal is still a dull silverhwell: The only other possibility is that the track is too modern for it, maybe it needs the old track to work properly since those wheel flanges are so huge

What can I do to clean the wheels really well? They are still a dull silver and I think it could be the cause of my problems

Here is the modified motor:


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## brownwolf66 (Jul 9, 2013)

I have 3 of this very same model and all run beautifully on Atlas,Hornby or Fleischmann Code 100 track as well as the turnouts.The best way to clean the wheels is to turn the locomotive upside down in your cradle and apply medium power to the wheels.Take a cotton swab dipped in the thin liquid of Brasso and apply it to each wheel with medium pressure with the power on.Those wheels are of an alloy that will not really turn very shiny but will certainly look clean.After the wheels are cleaned,take a fresh swab dipped in Isopropyl alcohol and clean up excess Brasso.

Remove the pickup plate and carefully clean the copper strips adjusting the tension against the wheels.

The locomotive stopping on the track may be due to the motor not being held down firmly and making positive contact with the drive gear.

This should help.


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