# Car weights



## Robes (Jan 5, 2011)

I have the formula for car weight written down around here somewhere....AH,...here it is: 
(1 ounce minimum plus 1/2 ounce per inch of car. In HO, a 6 inch car should weight 4 ounces.)

What do you use for weight? I have some passenger cars that I want to add weight to. You can see in the windows, so whatever it is,... it needs to be low profile...

Gonna have to find me one of those little scales .....


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I use automotive wheel weights, the kind that are self-sticking. I put them on the bottom of the car if possible, or as low as I can if that's not possible.


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## Robes (Jan 5, 2011)

Bottom inside or bottom outside?


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## sstlaure (Oct 12, 2010)

You can pick up nice little digital scales at Harbor Freight for ~$10. I use the single-side-sticky 1g lead weights you find at the train shop.

For a passenger car I'd put a steel plate in the bottom (easy enough to paint black to blend in)


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## New Berlin RR (Feb 11, 2012)

sstlaure said:


> You can pick up nice little digital scales at Harbor Freight for ~$10. I use the single-side-sticky 1g lead weights you find at the train shop.
> 
> For a passenger car I'd put a steel plate in the bottom (easy enough to paint black to blend in)


and you can also put your own interior over it too...


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

peel and stick car wheel weights, Cheep and I cut them to the weight I need..


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## shaygetz (Sep 23, 2007)

I use stacked pennies, 10-12 to an ounce...much cheaper than any other method...:thumbsup:


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

I use the same type of weight that's already in the car. The little flat metal piece that's already in the car, a four foot long piece of the same thing only in variable thicknesses can be purchased at both Home Depot and Lowes at very little cost. All I do is install a metal cutting disc onto my radial saw and then cut off the appropriate sized pieces. Sand them a little bit and they're just like the original. 

I use this because it gives the car a nice evenly distributed amount of weight thoughout the entire length of the car without it becoming top heavy. Also,if a piece I cut out is to actually replace the piece that came with the car, then I use the original as a template allowing me to drill the holes in the correct locations on the new piece using my drill press, thus making it an exact mirror image of the original with the exception of the new piece being thicker and heavier.

Of course if it's going to require too much weight just to enable the car to roll without derailing, then maybe it's time to address the wheels or even the trucks themselves. When a car keeps derailing even when it's got a great set of wheels, it's been my experience that a little bit of truck tuning and a little extra added weight usually take care of the problem. But then also, there's been a few times that it turned out that the couplers were the actual culprit, rather then it being the wheels or the weight.

Routerman


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## Robes (Jan 5, 2011)

These weights are for some cars that I am restoring. They came without trucks,... so I get to play! I have all the tools for metal working, so that isn't an issue... but you said you found these flat pieces at Lowes? Can you tell me what dept you find them in? I waltzed Lowes the other day looking for something I could use for car weights.
I have a whole drawer of tire lead weights in my tool shed. I am going to give each of these suggestions a try.... including the pennies.....


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

There is more to derailing than just wheels. A really light car near the head of the train will have a greater tendency to pull off the tracks, especially on curves. After weighting a bunch of boxcars, I was able to get a 35 car train running around the track, before the weights, some of the light cars would be pulled off on the curves. Now, if I could only get all the couplers to hold 100% of the time... I had to rubber band a few of them to keep the train in one piece.


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## Southern (Nov 17, 2008)

I like the tire weights because I am an auto mechanic. It adds a new meaning to the turm free weights.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Yep, I had to pay for mine, free ones would be nice.


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## Robes (Jan 5, 2011)

See,.... and that is why I am doing this. Weight,... couplers,... position in the train,... trucks. I got an eduction a few weeks ago when an old friend brought down some old Athearn passenger cars. They would derail or uncouple all the time. I serviced the trucks and swapped out the HH couplers for kadee and that made a huge difference. In looking around the threads on this sight, I realized I needed some info on weighting the cars...... It doesn't surprise me that the position of the car in the train makes a difference too,.....


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## Robes (Jan 5, 2011)

Southern said:


> I like the tire weights because I am an auto mechanic. It adds a new meaning to the turm free weights.


I have a farm that is 150 yrs old. My wife's parents lived here before us. My father in law did his own maintenance (as do I) and was a "keeper". If he needed one, he bought a dozen. I have a drawer full of those old tire weights. ..... I knew I would find a use for them one day


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## jzrouterman (Nov 27, 2010)

Robes said:


> but you said you found these flat pieces at Lowes? Can you tell me what dept you find them in? I..


Ya. They're next to where the sell the threaded rods. They have the flat steel bars of different widths and thicknesses.

Routerman


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## fotoflojoe (Dec 31, 2011)

shaygetz said:


> I use stacked pennies, 10-12 to an ounce...much cheaper than any other method...:thumbsup:


How much do those cost?




Sorry, I couldn't resist...


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

According to wiki, it costs Uncle Sam (us taxpayers) about 2.4 cents to make a penny.

Dohh!

TJ


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## Gansett (Apr 8, 2011)

Look in the hardware aisle


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

That's why they've stopped making them. I guess pennies are going to be worth a nickel soon.


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## Mr.Buchholz (Dec 30, 2011)

Metal slugs work well, or even large nuts glued (or taped) to the train car's floor. Those small metal slabs (1/8 - 1/4 thick) are good too. Then it just comes down to distribution.

-J.


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

Anything that has weight will work, the benefit of the lead weights is they have the best size/weight ratio.


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## Len_S (Aug 5, 2011)

gunrunnerjohn said:


> There is more to derailing than just wheels. A really light car near the head of the train will have a greater tendency to pull off the tracks, especially on curves. After weighting a bunch of boxcars, I was able to get a 35 car train running around the track, before the weights, some of the light cars would be pulled off on the curves. Now, if I could only get all the couplers to hold 100% of the time... I had to rubber band a few of them to keep the train in one piece.


That reaction is called 'stringlining' and can happen on real railroads also.

If your couplers don't hold, maybe you need to change to KD's or the McHenry MKII series. making sure the couplers are all the same height is also a must, since any little dip in the track can cause uncoupling. We can and have run 85+ car trains at our Club with no problem, but that requires some maintenance on the cars.

Len S


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## Len_S (Aug 5, 2011)

Robes said:


> These weights are for some cars that I am restoring. They came without trucks,... so I get to play! I have all the tools for metal working, so that isn't an issue... but you said you found these flat pieces at Lowes? Can you tell me what dept you find them in? I waltzed Lowes the other day looking for something I could use for car weights.
> I have a whole drawer of tire lead weights in my tool shed. I am going to give each of these suggestions a try.... including the pennies.....


I usually use 1/2 inch zinc flat washers attached in the cars with either double sided tape or latex caulk (takes a little while to cure). Really cheap. A package of 18 cost me about $1.75 at Menard's. I'm sure all the major hardware supply houses have them. The washers range in weight from .20 oz to .35 oz, so there is a good selection to correctly weight cars. If you buy the 3/8 inch size washers, they run from .10 oz to .20 oz. Done several hundred cars this way.

Also, if the cars have no trucks, this is a good time to add trucks that have the sideframes reamed out with the a tuning tool. Major improvement!

Len S


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## Rangerover (Feb 8, 2012)

I use lead sheets form torn out shower stalls, lead bins from torn out toilets given to me by a plumbing contractor. I melt the lead wheel weights and pour into aluminum forms 6"x6"x1/8" and when I need a piece I cut it with tin snips and use double face sponge tape to secure it in place! But using lead there are safety issues like keep away from small children, melt lead in a WELL ventilated area, wash your hands often even if wearing gloves, and don't let any water or coffee, soda, beer, liquid of any kind fall into a hot pot of lead, makes one hell of an explosion. Been casting lead bullets for 40 years, I am a competitive rifle/pistol shooter when not model rring or singing! Jim


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