# Lionel 675 loose wheels



## Newtown Joe (Jan 30, 2013)

Help!
The rear Baldwin wheels on my 675 come loose, slide outward and throw the alignment off resulting in the wheels jamming. How do you get the wheels to stay in? Do they need to be pressed in? Do you need a special tool?


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

Newtown Joe said:


> Help!
> The rear Baldwin wheels on my 675 come loose, slide outward and throw the alignment off resulting in the wheels jamming. How do you get the wheels to stay in? Do they need to be pressed in?


Yes



Newtown Joe said:


> Do you need a special tool?


Yes

Having said all that, I have had some success with making the hole smaller on the wheel. This is done by 'peening' the backside of the axle hole on the offending wheel (don't do the front side because you will damage the connecting rod hole).

Once you've tightened up the axle hole you now have a bigger alignment problem for properly 'quartering' the wheel as you now have no marks from the axle ferrules.

Alignment tools exist to accomplish this with a press, but with a little (a lot) of patience it can be done with a bench vise.

The other technique involves centerpunching the axle after the wheel is installed to slightly 'flare' the axle end.

Good luck, let us know how it turns out.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I've never had to pull wheels before. Rkenney, what about a drop of crazy glue on the outside axel after its properly gauged? Would that hold it in?


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

sjm9911 said:


> I've never had to pull wheels before. Rkenney, what about a drop of crazy glue on the outside axel after its properly gauged? Would that hold it in?


Never tried that. Thinkin' about it several things come to mind. 

First and foremost, Crazy Glue does not fill gaps. Loose wheels are always due to a 'gap', that's why you have to press them in the first place. They are machined for a slight 'interference.

If the wheel actually wobbles (large gap) how will you keep it perpendicular to the axle?

And, of course, if you screw up (quartering) will you get a second chance?

Alot depends on how loose the wheel is to begin with. Bearing in mind the method of original assembly (and why it was done that way), you may reach a point where the best repair is simply to replace the part.


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

You can also use "green" loctite on the axle then press the wheel on. It will fill the gap and still allow removal later if necessary. Don't use red, ever, it will require heat to break the bond.

Carl


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## Newtown Joe (Jan 30, 2013)

*675 Loose Wheels*

I think I'll try the "center punch" method since I was thinking of this before. I think a carefully placed blow or two will do the trick.
I'll let you know.
Thanks


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

Kwikster said:


> You can also use "green" loctite on the axle then press the wheel on. It will fill the gap and still allow removal later if necessary. Don't use red, ever, it will require heat to break the bond.
> 
> Carl


I like this, never thought of it. Used Red Loctite many a time, never even knew they had a green.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I figured that the crazy glue might work on a small gap, never even thought of a large one. I think I read freezing the glue makes it brittle enough to remove. I only put on pilot wheels. I use vise grips to create a bur then push the wheel on. I should try taking apart a junker just to see what it's like.


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

sjm9911 said:


> I should try taking apart a junker just to see what it's like.


Just remember if you leave one axle wheel assembly installed you have a reference point for the connecting rods.

Second axle not that difficult, generally enough play in the connecting rod to accommodate being slightly off.

Third axle is the trick, got to be dead on.

I generally have to redo the last axle 4 or 5 times to get it right. Sure would be simpler with wheel cups but I don't do it iften enough to justify the cost.


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