# Sticky  Installing different types of decoders in different types of locomotives



## gc53dfgc

The Schedule

AHM SW1 - 20-25 Decoder to be installed - Digitrax DH123D FINISHED

Bachmann GP38 - 23-24 Decoder to be installed - Digitrax DH123D FINISHED

Athearn C44-9W - 22-26 Decoder to be installed - Digitrax DH123D the DH123AT can be used but by installing the DH123D more flexibility is created. FINISHED

Bachmann SD40-2 Decoder installed- Soundtraxx Tsunami TSU-1000 EMD 645 Sound Decoder - New ditch lights being installed and then completed.


Bachmann Spectrum Series 44 ton switcher - 20-31 Decoder to be installed DZ123 (Needs a new decoder after last two fried then it is done)(this will be the hardest to install because there are two motors in the engines insted of one and that there is not a lot of space to add the new decoder over the old PCB)










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One of the four Digitrax DH123 DCC decoders to be installed.









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The one Soundtraxx Tsunami TSU-1000 DCC sound decoder to be installed.

On Wed 22,2010 I will start the assembly of the new decoders into all the locomotives.

Went to the my local hobby shop and decided to pick up a DZ123 from Digitrax to install into the 44 ton switcher due to space issues i was having. This decoder was meant for a Z scale engine but I figured I would give it a shot. This now leaves me with an extra DH123D so what locomotive do you all think the new DH123D should go into on my projects that are reserved for later? 









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The new DZ123 Z scale decoder.

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Dec 23, 2010
Today I got another locomotive upgraded to DCC. though there is a few touch up things I must do to it and the SW1. Depending on if I can find my fathers Dremel or not I should have another locomotive or two done by tommorrow.

I will update this thread as more progress is done on the engines.


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## gc53dfgc

*Installing a Digitrax DH123D DCC decoder in a AHM EMD SW1 Switcher.*

This is where I will be posting about how to install a Digitrax DH123D DCC decoder into a AHM EMD SW1 Switcher.

First Step,
Examen the insides of your loco and plan out where the decoder will go.









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Engine with shell on.








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Engine with shell off. Note that there is no motor in this unit. this is because the original motor was having trouble and I decided to fiddle with it and lost the springs so I had to buy another one off of ebay to get a replacement motor. I will also be going over how to install the new motor into the SW1 as well.








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Here is an idea where the decoder will be sitting originally before I decided that the motor would have to be placed near the front of the engine do to a very important wieght being in the cab section.









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The locomotive where I got the new motor from.









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I took the replacement motor out and made the motorless engine a dummy.

Step Two









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You need to solder the white wire from the original train to the (negative) black wir from the DH123D harness.

Step Three









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Next solder the red pickup wire from the original engine to the red (positive) wire of the DH123D decoder.









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Note that I have cut the violet and green wires to almost the 9 pin easy connector. This is because the DH123D does not use the green and violet functions so there is no need for extra wires.

The first most important part is finished.

Step Four









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Solder the grey wire from the decoder to either side of the engine it does not matter which side as you can set the decoder to fix the problem if the train goes cab last and not front.









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Then solder the orange wire from the decoder to the other metal piece of the motor opposite of the one that the grey wire was soldered to. You have now completed the wiring of the DH123D to run the engine of the DCC locomotive.

Step Five
Note that the instalation guide for the decoder and the lights are only for a front headlight setup only, not a rear light as this was not how the original AHM SW1 came and I did not want to change how original it was if possible.









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Solder the white wire to the bulb holder if you intend to do a forward and reverse light setup. Otherwise it does not matter if you solder the blue (common) or the white (forward bulb wire) to this clip.









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Next solder the blue wire (common) of the decoder to the wavy piece of metal that goes to the light bulb. An optional thing that I did was because of my SW1 was the rarer of the two types that had a brakeman on the front and would hold a lamp that lights up. It is true that one could wire it to work with the reverse setup and you would do it that way. Since the original was a both headlight and brakeman on constant I decided to set it up for forward operation for both and simply soldered one brake man wire to the white wire (forward headlight) and the other brakeman wire to the blue (common) of the decoder so it would turn on when going forwards.

Step Six









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Reattach the shell of the engine and make sure the decoder fits, works, and does not interfere with the engine operation. I have had to remove the rear weight and cut off some plastic that holds the rear truck to the frame. I will be finishing the install by cutting some of the inside shell off to make more room and cutting the top part of the weight off and putting the two side peices back in as at the moment it can only pull about three to four cars. This is caused because of the lack of weight over the drive wheels.

You are now finished with the installation of a Digitrax DH123D decoder in a non DCC ready AHM EMD SW1 with brakeman figure, Or without what ever model you have. One tip, for this install being my first I managed to cut the wires to long and soldered them this way. this makes it harder to make the DH123D fit into the already cramped engine therefore I recomend cutting the wires as short as you possibly can.


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## gc53dfgc

*Installing a Digitrax DH123D DCC decoder in a Bachmann EMD GP38.*

This is where I will be posting about how to install a Digitrax DH123D DCC decoder into a Bachmann EMD GP38 Motive Power.

First Step,
Examen the insides of the engine and figure out where you are going to place the DH123D decoder.









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The engine with the shell on.









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The original board where the DC PCB is installed on the loco.









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A side veiw of the engine where you can see the motor and how limited space is on it.









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Do to the limited amount of space on the GP38 I will have to grind down a large peice of the wheight that is over the rear truck and will instll the DH123D there. Sorry about the fuzzyness of this picture, I will try to take a new one.

Wednesday Dec 29, 2010
I started the grinding away for a spot to install the decoder into the GP 38 today and am about halfway finished.

Second Step








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Here is a picture of the engine after I have grinded out the space required for the new DH123D decoder. Not that the rear truck pick up is not wired it was originally and I later reattached the pick up wires to the truck after finding out it would be safe and due to power pick up issues.

Third Step: TRUCK PICK UP AND WIRING

Step One








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Prepare the black and red wires from both the front truck and the decoder for soldering. Secondly twist the red wires from the front and rear truck together for easier soldering to the decoder wire. Note you will need to lengthen the rear truck wires to make it up to the front of the engine.

Next you are going to want to slide shrink tubing over the wires to be soldered and move them as far away from the point to be soldered as possible. Now solder the two wires for both the red and black that were twisted together to there respective wires of the decoder (black and red). Next you are going to need to slide the shrink tubing back over the newly soldered point and heat it to make it a permant fix.

Fourth Step: MOTOR WIRING
Step One.

You need to prepare the motor area for the conversion to DCC by tapeing every area that the motor's metal parts is going to touch, you can use electrical tape to safely do this. You do this to ensure that the motor does not short on the chasis body destroying the decoder.









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After prepareing the motor area the next step is to prepare the motor positive (red) and negative (black) wires to the decoder orange (positive) and grey (negative). It does and does not matter that the wires correspond with their currents at this point as the headlights wires can be switches to fix directional lighting issues or just switching the motor wires with each other will fix this as well. You need to put shrink tubing over these wires and move it as far away as possible then soldering together the wires and placing the shrink tubing back over it. Then heat the tubing till it is fully shrunk around the solder points.

Fifth and sixth Step

The fifth and sixth steps include adding the front headlight and the rear light to the engine and decoder.








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Prepare the bulbs wires by cutting them to size. Next prepare the White (front headlight) wire by cutting it to the proper length and stripping the end of the wire. Then prepare the bare ends of the wires by adding flux and sliding the proper length shrink tubing over the wire and as far away from the solder point. Next solder the white wire to either one of the bulb wires. Slide the shrink tubing over the solder point and then heat it until it is fully shrunken.









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Next you need to prepare the blue (common) wire. The Blue common wire must go to both the front and rear headlight. There is not enough length of wire from the harness to go to the front then to the rear light. So you will need to cut the blue wire as close to the decoder as you are comfortable with (you will have to solder at this point in the future so be wise about the cutting.) You are then going to take the wire you just cut off the blue wire and take one end and measure it to the front headlights extra wire and cut it at this point. leave a little extra wire just in case. The next step is to prepare the blue wire end at the harness the end that will go to the front light and the one that gos to the rear light. Place the flux and one shrink tubing piece on the wire for the harness. WARNING: Do not place the shrink tubing over the wire that goes to the front or rear light. You will not be able to slide it back over the solder point. You are going to solder the two wires from the lights to the harness as one piece, you are then going to move the shrink tubing from the harness over the solder point and shrink it to make a secure and safe wire. Next solder the other end of the wire that goes to the front light to its respective wire makeing sure to put a piece of shrink tubing to the blue wore and then moving it back over the solder point. This completes the front headlight leaving us with just the rear light to finish.








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The front light after completion.

The Rear Light








By gc53dfgc at 2011-01-12
You are going to solder the yellow wire (rear light) to the bulb once you have trimmed it to size and put a peice of shrink tubing over it. After soldering the yellow wire slide the shrink tubing over it and then shrink. You are then going to solder the blue wire that is for the rear light to the other bulb wire after you have put a piece of shrink tubing on the wire. The move the shrink tubing back over the solder point of the blue wire and shrink.









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Bulb after final soldering.

This completes the install of the DCC decoder into the Bachmann GP38 engine. The only step left is to plug the decoder in and reattach the engine shell. 









This is the engine fully switched to DCC and tested without the shell on.


Note that this is the standard line which is commonly reffered to as there jucnk line. After adding the decoder to the engine while it will not run at a prototypical 1-5 miles per hour it runs very smoothly and quietly when it does start moving. So I see no problem with this engine. I did clean off all the drive wheels with rubing alcohol and lubed up everything. I would think that if I had decided to clean the brushes as well it would run at the prototypical 1-5 miles an hour that the real engine could run at.

I hope to in the next week or so get a video of the DCC engines i have installed decoders in so far so you all can see that they do indeed run.


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## gc53dfgc

*Installing a Digitrax DH123D DCC decoder in a Athearn GE C44-9W or Dash 9.*

This is where I will be posting about how to install a Digitrax DH123D DCC decoder into a Athearn GE C44-9W or Dash 9 Motive Power.

First Step,
Examen the insides of the engine and decide where the DH123D is going to be installed.









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A picture of the engine with the shell on.









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The engine with the shell off exposing the simplistic design of the Athearn. 









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Because space is no issue here I can install the decoder in either the front of the unit or in the rear. I was thinking the front but decided on the rear because of how long the wire harness actually is for the DH123D.

Step Two
Prepare the chasis of the engine by removing the motor (do this very carefully to avoid damage), the two rubber motor mount grips, the long silver center peice of metal (this can be disregarded if you are installing the decoder the same way I have), and the front headlight mount.

Step Three








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After the engine chasis has been preped you then need to cut bothe the green and violet wires to almost the bare 9 pin harness.

Step Four








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Fourth you will solder the black wire (negative) from the decoder to the rear truck's metal pick up where the long metal clip used to pick up power. I went a little bit further with this install then is needed by soldering a black wire from the rea truck pick up to the front truck pick up to ensure a steady supply of power to the decoder.

Step Five








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To solder the red (positive) wire of the decoder to the rear truck you must take off a few peices of the drive shaft so as to not accidently melt them as you solder the red wire to the center plate of the engine. Note I did not notice this metal peice when I first started the insatllation. Whe I originally started I tried to solder the red wire directly to the chasis where the positive motor pick up used to be but this does not work as the chasis is made of a type of metal that will not hold solder. This metal piece on the truck was hard to discover at first and was only found because I got to thinking how on earth the center part of the chasis was getting positive power and figured it had to be coming from the wheels. As it turned out there was indeed a pick up for the positive side and the metal plate rubs against the chasis suppleing power to the motor. This is probably why some Athearns will stutter when running. you can simply solder a wire from the pick up to the motor for DC versions to help improve on this slight flaw. Note this does not stop power from flowing through the chasis so the motor must still be isolated. You can also do the same with the red wire as I did with the black but I opted not to as I did not have enough wire and this would crowd the engine with the shell on even further.

The first important part of the install is finished.

Step Six








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We now move to the front of the engine where the forward light is housed. This part gets complicated as you should remove the entire light housing from the frame. This includes the brass negative power pick up rod, the silverish metal piece that suplies positive power to the bulb, and the black piece that holds the bulb, silver pick up and the brass power pick up rod.
To remove the silver power pick up you must pry it off. Since you have pried off the power pick up you now need to cut the silver pick up so that only the hollow square is left. You will also have to cut the brass power pick up in about half so that it does not touch the front truck negative pick up. Now that we have all the pieces tooken care of we can begin soldering. You need to solder either the white (forward) or the blue (common) wire from the decoder to the brass power pick up. I chose blue.

Step Seven








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Next you will need to solder the white or blue wire from the decoder to the silver pick up square. I chose the white wire but this will have no effect either way.









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You can now finally reassemble the front headlight assembly.
Note that there is a round black peice in some Athearns that holds the bulb and acts as a directional piece. Since we have gotten rid of the silver peice that used to support the entire assembly you will need to either try Testors plastic glue, CA, or super glue and glue this piece
to the front headlight lens piece.

You have now completed another important part of the DCC install (the headlights)

I want to add that in some athearn models there can be a reverse light. for this type you will do the same as described only switch out the white for yellow wires from the decoder.

Step Eight








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You now need to very very carefully remove the top copper piece that is on the top of the motor. Be carefull as to not go launching the springs from the motor as I have done many a time. Take this piece and solder either the grey (motor positive) or orange (motor negative) wore to this peice. DO NOT REASSEMBLE THE MOTOR AT THIS POINT!

Step Nine








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Now carefully turn the motor over being sure not to loose any of the brushes. You now must remove the positive copper motor pick up. This piece has to metal prongs that stick out and would for DC touch the chasis since this is to set it up for DCC/DC operation you must chop these two prongs off. You can then solder the grey or orange wire to this copper piece.

Step Ten








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Now we will begin reassembly of the motor. First carefully place a spring (and a brush if you removed these as well or if they fell out) into the Brush holder and replace the copper positive pick up at the same place you removed it from earlier.









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Now flip the motor back over and place a spring and any applicable pieces back into the brush holder. Then carefully put the negative pickup back on. (This is the one that did not have the two prongs on it.)









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You must now place the two rubber motor mounts you removed earlier onto the motor itself and place the motor back into its original place. I recomend before doing this step to place ideally a pice of electrical tape to where the old positive motor power pick up prongs used to touch but regualar scotch tape works as well. You should not need this but this ensures an isolated motor.
NOTE. Be very care ful when you put the motor bach in place and reconnect the front and rear drive shafts. I broke a peice of the rear shaft while trying to refit it. You may have to take the trucks off to reinstall the motor. Now place the front headlight assembly into the black holder you had glued to the front headlight lens earlier. now carefully plug the decoder into the harness and tuck the loose wires up towards the roof of the shell and reatach the shell. 

You Have now finished the wireing of your DC engine to run in DCC, Test it out and have fun.

I have tested mine and everything works fine and even better than it did in DC so this install guide should create no problems with your engine if you have followed all steps acordingly.









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This peice can be disregarded or saved for parts for other DC Athearns.

I will eventually be getting the Digitrax DH123AT and will be installing it in yet another even older Athearn and might do a DCC install on it as well.


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## gc53dfgc

*Installing a Digitrax DH123D DCC decoder in a Bachmann Spectrum GE 44Ton Switcher.*

This is where I will be posting about how to install a Digitrax DH123D DCC decoder into a Bachmann Spectrum Line GE 44 Ton Switcher Yard Engine.

First Step,
Examen the insides of the Bachmann Spectrum GE 44 Ton Switcher and plan where the DH123D DCC decoder will be installed.









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Engine with the shell on.









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The engine with the shell taken off to expose the insides of this intricate switcher. Note that this switcher has two motors intead of the normal one. While this greatly improves pulling power this also makes the install of the Dh123D more complicated and compact.









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For the placement of the DH123D I am planning on putting it in the center or on one of the sides. there is currently no extra space in this engine so I will have to grind away a lot of the wheight to make room for the decoder. This limit on space will also increase the amount of difficulty that I will have installing the DH123D DCC decoder.

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Had a major mishap today and fried the DZ123 decoder for the 44 ton switcher. I have not figured out if it was the fact that I had two different pickup points or the fact that I am wiring it up for two motors. I am thinking it was the first one and am going to the train store tommorrow to get another one. Other than that I have to install the two lights and it will be finished. Then I will upload the install guide for this engine.

More updates to come...


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## gc53dfgc

*Installing a Soundtraxx Tsunami TSU-1000 sound decoder into a Bachmann EMD SD40-2*

This is where I will be posting about how to install a Soundtraxx Tsunami TSU-1000 DCC sound decoder into a Bachmann EMD SD40-2. I will also be installing ditch lights from Details West and adding three new see through 36'' radius radiator fans to the back.

First Step,
Examen the insides of the loco to decide where to install the TSU-1000 sound decoder. I cannot stress enough how important it is to take the time to plan out the install of this decoder because of how intricate and expensive this decoder and it's components are.









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The engine with the shell on.









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The engine with the shell off. Note again on this engine that space is a limited thing on this Bachmann and that there is no motor or original DCC decoder. The original motor was running roughly so I tinkered with it and didn't think much of it that I had the DCC controller still powering the track while I was working on it. A BIG NONO! So this then fried the circit board and then I managed to loose one of the springs to it so I am waiting on a replacement motor from Bachmann.









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This is where I plan to install the TSU-1000 on the engine towards the front. Because of space I will have to grind away a lotof the weight on the top but this is okay as it does not interfere with the drive mechanisms and there will still be enough weight.

Step Two,
Decide where the Speaker and Capacitor thing a ma jig will go (I will update the real meaning of the black thing a ma jig when I find out what it's called.)









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I have drawn where the speaker and decoder will be placed on the engine and where and how much weight I need to grind away. 

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Dec 21, 2010
Today I got the final peices for the SD40-2 install. The speaker, speaker enclosure, and the new raidiator fans came in.








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The new radiator fans.









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The Soundtraxx speaker.









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The speaker enclosure.









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The final layout plan of where the components for the SD40-2 will be installed.








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Where the new fans will be installed.

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Wednesday 22,2010

I picked up the final pieces required for the SD40-2 as well as the other engines from my local hobby shop.








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The #74 drill bits required to install the ditch lights in to the engine.









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A pair of new LED's and resistors to be installed into the SD40-2








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Finally the shrink tubing required to properly insulate the new wireing in all the engines


More updates to come...


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## gc53dfgc

*How To Make A FRED for DCC*

This is a simple how-to on adding a FRED to a train car that I did.









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Here is the car in question.









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Here is the car taken apart and the FRED to be installed. I got the FRED from a Halloween toy, it blikned just like a FRED so I decided to take the toy part off and install it into a freight car. I had to cut most of the battery holder and extra plastic to make it fit.

Firts Step,









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Make a hole in the end of the car with an exacto knife.

Second Step, 









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Make sure the new FRED fits and then resolder any connections that may have came loose.

And your done. A perfectly blinking FRED for a DCC layout.


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## gc53dfgc

*Installing a DCC decoder into a Bachmann Trolley*

This is the install guide for a Bachmann PCC trolley or street car with a DH123D decoder.








The streetcar before the DCC instalation has begun.








The insides of the streetcar before DCC has been installed.


First Step,
Examen the insides of the streetcar to locate where the decoder will go.
I have chosen the front roof area. I glued the decoder into place with medium CA adhesive.

















Second Step,
The first thing to do in the Bachmann trolley is to remove the wireing from the DC pickups, then remove the wires from the motor altogether while leaving the the metal clips that are screwed into the motor frame. Then Undo the soldering where the wires are soldered into the motor and pickup pieces. Save the bulbs and all of their wiring, the rest of the wire can be discarded.








These are the front pickups of the streetcar.

Third Step,
The third step is to install the wire harness black and red wires for the decoder to the front pickups. I later discovered after much fidling that the rear engine has pickups as well. You can simply solder the + - wires into those metal screwed in clips I mentioned earlier or just solder it on to one side of the frame and one to the other side.








Firstly prep the harness wires by cutting them to length and the prepareing them for solder.








Then solder the harness red and black wires to the front streetcar truck.








It is important that you keep the red and black on the same sides of the front as the back if you decide to use dual pickups.
You then want to slide the front pickup truck and the harness back into the plastic body. It will not be removed anymore throught the rest of the instalation. This completes the front and or rear power pickups.

Fourth Step,
The next step is to solder the orange (+) amd grey (-) wires of the harness to the motor. The first step is to prep the wire harness wires to length and prepare them for solder. The original wires are black and red thus telling you the proper + - for proper forward movment when DCC is installed.








You must remove the side of the metal motor frame where the brush springs are located. You will see two metal prods coming off of the brush housing down to the two lower screws that keep the tention, you will then find a metal prod on each screw area that touches the metal frame. It is absolutly crucial you bend these metal ends off while still leaving the brush bracket and screws in place. If this is not done the motor will short out frying the decoder. You then can reinstall the metal housing and then solder the two wires directly to the tops of the brush holders that are exposed. If you paid attention to the metal prongs and what side of the frame they touched and the corresponding wire you can correctly wire the motor so it will work with forward and reverse lights properly on the first try. The motor and wires are then slid back into the plastic frame and will remain there for the rest of the install so this part is now done.

Fifth Step,
The fifth step is to wire the forward and reverse lights into the wire harness.
It really does not matter where you place the forward or reverse light in the two plastic lamp holders if you are planning to do an all on setup which provides the proper and original allumination of the streetcar before the DCC install.








You can see my original motor wiring mistake in this photo as well as the start of preping the lamp wires. You will want to cut them to length for their respective placement in the shell. You need to twist the two red lamp wires together and solder them to the blue common wire while making sure to use heat shrink tubing that can be slid over and shrunken later for a safe and secure solder.

















You then need to solder the black (-) wire to the white forward (-) wire from the harness and also using shrink tubing for this one as well. 








The last bit of soldering is the reverse black (-) lamp wire to the yellow reverse (-) wiring from the harness also using shrink tubing.
The old tape that held the lamp in has most likely gone bad and so simple electrical tape cut to sive will hold them in properly. 

Final Step,
The last and final step is to slide and coax all the wiring, plastic light piece, lamps, and the plastic body all back into the shell and then screwing the body back onto the shell by the one middle black screw. Then you must test it and make sure all is well. The last thing to do is the programming for all on lighting. This is going to require a good long CV programming session. And one heck of a lot of reading but I am eleminating that long step for you. As for CV programming it is different for every system. 

So for the forward light to be constant on you must do this.
Set CV35 to 1 from the factory 4
Now for the reverse light
Set CV 36 to 2 from factory 8 
It is important that you program the front light before the back. If done differently it can make it so the back light is always on but the front acts as directional still. even doing it this way will sometimes result in one not being programmed properly requiring you to start over with the programming.
then you just have to turn on F1 and F2 and the all light on function on your system and your set with constant lighting.








Finished with all the programming done and DCC installed. Don't let this guide fool you it is still hard to do all of this and to have it all work properly and some of the pictures hint at just how much work go's into these.

That concludes the guide for installing DCC into a Bachmann PCC Streetcar with a DH123D decoder to full DCC.


----------



## gc53dfgc

*Installing a DCC decoder into a AHM/Rivarossi 2-8-2 Mikado*

Reserved for later.


----------



## gc53dfgc

*Installing a DCC decoder into a Bachmann 4-8-4 GS4*

Reserved for later.


----------



## gc53dfgc

*Installing a DCC decoder into a AHM/Rivarossi 4-6-2 Heavy Pacific*

Reserved for later.


----------



## gc53dfgc

*Installing a DCC decoder into a Hornby Hogwarts Express Engine.*

Reserved for later.


----------



## gc53dfgc

*Installing a DCC decoder into a Bachmann Dewitt Clinton & Lafyte.*

Reserved for later.


----------



## gc53dfgc

*Installing DCC Mobile Function Only Decoders into Freight & Passenger Cars.*

Reserved for later.


----------



## gc53dfgc

*Installing a Tsunami DCC/Sound Decoder into a DCC Ready Athearn SW1000 (By SRV1)*

Installing a Soundtraxx Tsunami TSU-AT1000 EMD645 (Non-Turbo) into an Athearn DCC ready SW1000 in BNSF as well as upgrading the lighting.

(Future Picture goes here)

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?p=84311#post84311

All Credit goes to SRV1 for the Article.


----------



## gc53dfgc

*DCC Decoder Installs*

Reserved for later.


----------



## gc53dfgc

*Reseved DCC installs*

reserved.


----------



## gc53dfgc

MODS if you could sticky this thread of How-to's on installing DCC decoders into different types of locos for me so that everyone will be able to see it on the first page and not have to go to X page just to find the how-to's that would be great.


----------



## David-Stockwell

gc53dfgc said:


> Reserved for later.





gc53dfgc said:


> Reserved for later.





gc53dfgc said:


> Reserved for later.


HI there gc53dfgc,
I see you have been posting all kinds of stuff on DCC
Been real busy HUH!!!
By the way I posted a personal message to you about bridges!! If you get the time in between all your DCC work  You could check out that messge 

Cheers, Dave


----------



## cabledawg

I'll be watching this so I can do my Bachmann GP35? loco after Christmas. Curious though, my GP doesnt look like yours at all, more like the Athern loco. 

Either way, I want to see you work your magic befre I tear into my stuff.


----------



## gc53dfgc

cabledawg said:


> I'll be watching this so I can do my Bachmann GP35? loco after Christmas. Curious though, my GP doesnt look like yours at all, more like the Athern loco.
> 
> Either way, I want to see you work your magic befre I tear into my stuff.


Maybe a pic of your loco to verify its manufacturer? I hope to have all the current projects done by the 27. I am going to my local train store tommorow to among other things pick up some shrink tubing a #74 drill bit ( for the install of the ditch lights) and a resistor or two and maybe even another decoder for the trolley that has a post on this thread for it. Hope my How-To's will be of use to you.


----------



## gc53dfgc

Okay all, 

I have not been able to get much work done on the DCC installs up until this weekend. Some of the things that I got done was the finishing of the sw1,dash9,sd40-2, and almost done with the 44ton. I will be getting all of them updated with finished pictures and details next weekend. 

Still waiting on someone to suggest a DC engine to convert to DCC!


----------



## cabledawg

Well, I've done a DCC, light, and coupler conversion on a Bachmann Thomas engine, as well as DCC on Bachmann Spectrum F7A/B units as well as my GP40 (which ended up being the same as your GP38) and soon I'll have to do Toby (another Thomas brand engine) and a really small switcher, although I cant remember what style right now.


You looking for a challenge or just something different than the normal GP's/SD's most people have?


----------



## gc53dfgc

cabledawg said:


> Well, I've done a DCC, light, and coupler conversion on a Bachmann Thomas engine, as well as DCC on Bachmann Spectrum F7A/B units as well as my GP40 (which ended up being the same as your GP38) and soon I'll have to do Toby (another Thomas brand engine) and a really small switcher, although I cant remember what style right now.
> 
> 
> You looking for a challenge or just something different than the normal GP's/SD's most people have?


Well I am currently working on my GE 44ton switchers which is very limited on space since I decided to try doing it without removing any of the weight, so I am really just looking for a suggestion on and engine to do. I listed a list of my current DC engines earlier in this thread. i currently have a simple non-sound Digitrax DH123D that is up for any engine at the moment. If you suggest a steam engine then I will most likely get another sound decoder to install so that will take a little more time to do but really any engine suggestion will be fine.


----------



## NIMT

Have you done a twin decoder install?
Or a twin with sound?
Twin decoders are used to control smoke with one decoder and motor with another decoder. 
You program them together with the same address.


----------



## gc53dfgc

NIMT.COM said:


> Have you done a twin decoder install?
> Or a twin with sound?
> Twin decoders are used to control smoke with one decoder and motor with another decoder.
> You program them together with the same address.


Sounds like quiet a nightmare to due and like it would take a lot of space to do. I might do a smoke decoder type and then include a sound decoder to make a twin install but i would hate to screw up the programming in one of them. Even if they do have a lock out feature I think I could possibly screw that up but i will give it a shot if I get some engine suggestions.


----------



## gc53dfgc

cabledawg said:


> Well, I've done a DCC, light, and coupler conversion on a Bachmann Thomas engine, as well as DCC on Bachmann Spectrum F7A/B units as well as my GP40 (which ended up being the same as your GP38) and soon I'll have to do Toby (another Thomas brand engine) and a really small switcher, although I cant remember what style right now.
> 
> 
> You looking for a challenge or just something different than the normal GP's/SD's most people have?


So did you get to your other DCC installs?


----------



## der_fisherman

*DIY Train Control*

I am helping a friend, who is retired, to try and automate his old system. I was hoping that there is a DIY section on this, but have not found anything yet.
Can anyone help?
regards
Andy


----------



## tjcruiser

Andy,

Pretty generalized question there. Hard to answer in detail without knowing more of your specific goals, experience, etc.

Here's a simple primer on DCC systems ...

http://www.loystoys.com/info/how-dcc-works.html

TJ


----------



## gc53dfgc

I can always give pointers and what not for installing decoders in engines. I need to make some time to get the final pictures of the sd40-2 up since it is still running flawlessly without issues. I still need some time for the little switcher that eats up decoders, I might have to do a dual motor decoder if it decides to eat one more decoder just so I know its not a motor draw issue.


----------



## der_fisherman

*DIY Train Controllers*

Hi,
firstly thanks to all who replied, a really great start! 
What I am hoping to be able to do (with your help) is to learn how to make -buy kit maybe-build-program a DCC compatible controller for older locomotives (H0 gauge I believe). 
If the main controller, maybe connected to a PC in some way, is also available as a DIY kit or similar - open source information, I would be happy.
My friend is recently retired and does not have a large budget.....the trainset he has collected over many years, no electronics.
Model railways are an interest for me that I have never actually done anything about, now my friend needs help and I am starting from a position of no practical knowledge, though I have worked in the computer inductry for around 35 years, I am also familiar with programming and hardware design and fabrication, though kits would be more attractive....
Any pointers you have for me will be very acceptable indeed.
If anyone needs any further information, please just ask.
regards
Andy


----------



## gc53dfgc

Well you need to have to things to run a layout using DCC or through a computer. The DCC Decoder which is actually hard wired into the engine (which I can install them in) and a command station which usually consists of a basic controller and sometimes with a booster which provides more amps or ability to run more engines at once. You would need what is known as a sniffer or interface to have the command station link up with a computer so it could all be controlled from there.

There are no "kits" per say for building your own command stations or decoders. I am sure with enough money and parts you could make a standard DC system that is controlled through the pressing of buttons to turn on different signals or routes and so fourth but that is a lot of relays, sensors, and other components.

I would be more then willing to help with the installing of the DCC decoders or help guide you through how it is done if you so wish or not if you decide DCC is not quite what you need.


----------



## der_fisherman

*Diy dcc....*

Firstly, many thanks for your reply.

To be absolutely honest, I don't really know what I want, except that I would like to be able to update the Locomotives with a PCB to control the necessary functions of each one. The overall control to be via a PC to stop crahes at various points.

If there is no DIY or open source versions to build, then it looks like I need to concentrate on the various versions that can be bought and installed. Perhaps you could be so kind as to run over the various options and manufacturers available and your personal opinion of each. Please also be so kind as to mention which ones you have had firsthand experience as well.....Big question.

By the way, if anyone else would like to chime in and help, please do so....

regards
Andy


----------



## NIMT

Andy,
If you start reading here DCC_Tutorial_(Starter_Sets) it might help with some clarity.

While the rules of DCC are the same everywhere, things are just a little different here in the US than they are in the UK, mainly the manufactures of the DCC devices.
We use Digitrax, NCE, Soundtraxx, MRC, Bachmann. I'm not sure what your normal is over there, I have heard of Roco and lenz.

The basic basis of a DCC system is: DCC command station and DCC controller, DCC decoder. From there you can add in devices to make PC connections possible and with software like JMRI or Railroad & Co. control your trains.

You will also need to have Decoders installed in your engines either DIY or have someone install them for you. Engines come in DCC ready are easy installs. Older Locos are usually tougher and require you to hard wire the decoder into the loco.
There are guys here in the states like me that do installs in loco's, It's better to find someone local to do it, cuts down on cost and time.

I here all the time people say they want to run there trains with a computer. That is not an easy or cheap task to accomplish, it requires a lot of components to pull it off. It's not as easy as hooking up a few wires or cables and throwing a computer program on the PC to make it work. It's more of a I've done DCC for years and now I want to upgrade step and not a starter step!


----------



## der_fisherman

*Thank you*

Thats good information, now I need to start reading!!
regards
Andy


----------



## gc53dfgc

Well I know for a fact that over in the UK it is common to see ESU, Dynamis, Hornby, and Digitrax systems. As for the decoders used they are all pretty much a standard with a little more use of ESU decoders in the UK than in the US. 

As far as computer control goes depending on the system it can be easy or hard as heck. Dynamis does not allow any computer interface so that one would be out, next is ESU which offers a wealth of features at a high price with very little info on how well it works with a computer system so I would stray way from one of their systems if possible. 

Now Digitrax as many in the US know it a computer friendly system and easy to setup so that would be a good option but can require slightly more understanding than the last system provided by Hornby which their premium system actually comes with software to setup routes, speeds, and completely automate a layout if so desired with simplistic understanding of how the entire system works. Now you can achieve this same thing with the Digitrax system of your choice but it will require a program called train controller or similar (Tankist would know) that comes in different versions for differing prices ranging from 100-700 dollars just for the software.Then add in the 300-600 for the proper system for doing this and it could just become to expensive to want to do and that still does not include the decoders for every engine.

Again more then willing to help, would even come over if I lived near you in the UK to help but I'm in the states so that kind of rules that out and limits any help I can offer to over the site or things mailed for me to install or repair. 

Once you decide on the DCC system of your choice we can start to narrow down what engines you have that need to be upgraded to DCC or Sound and also what types of add on systems you want like an operational signal system or decoders to control all the lighting on the layout or even DCC controlled switch machines and turntables.

Just let us know and we will help all we can.


----------



## New Berlin RR

odd question, but does anyone know where I can get a digitrax chip with sound for a Hornby loco? I don't want to use the Hornby chips as they seem to have issues and I want to use only Digitrax on my layout as thats what I plan to use.


----------



## NIMT

New Berlin RR,
Wise acre answer, Your buddy at BYLER JUNCTION , he's a digitrax dealer!
or any of the thousands of other digitrax dealers!
There is no advantage to dictating that you stay with just 1 manufacture of decoder, just because you have a digitrax control system. Most all decoders work with most all systems! I have used Atlas, MRC, Digitrax, Lenz, TCS, NCE, and Soundtraxx decoders with no problems or ill effects!
As far as a decoder from digitrax working in a hornby almost all of them will work (unless it's live steam)and since the decoders are programmable, you can download from their site and off other sites on the net it should not be a problem loading the sound set to match your loco.


----------



## New Berlin RR

well yea but I just figured id ask as I know Hornby makes chips but they have had issues in the past with another Hornby train I had and there chips, so I fugured id at least ask....thanks Sean!!


----------



## NIMT

The only real exception is if it uses the 21pin Sapphire decoder then your options are very limited!


----------



## Max from Brooklyn

I was wondering if you can suggest which decoder brands are compatible with Mantua F7A loco? I bought DH123D just to find out after the install that they are not compatible.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## Guest

I thought we covered that in another thread. I (or we) need to see a photo of the motor block to determine which version you have, and then we can figure out how to isolate it to work, or if it is even do-able. The issue on inexpensive H0 engines is usually one side of the motor is grounded to that power truck, the other side goes to the opposing truck.
If that is the case, NO decoder can or will function. You cannot tie one motor lead to one track lead and have anything but smoke from the decoder.
Dave


----------



## gc53dfgc

Well seems I missed a post or two, Sorry about that. However as scalecraft had said a picture would be in order to figure out if the train could be isolated and with how much work. I have found that any engine can but the amount of work that has to be put forth can make it unfeasible.

As a long needed update,

I now have the SD40-2 fully finished with the proper incandescent lamps for the forward and reverse instead of the nasty blue LED's I was surprised with, so now the ditch lights blend in perfectly. Next Tuesday I will take some picture of the finished engine as well as the following engine and have them uploaded here by the weekend.


The next locomotive to be finished is the GE 44 ton switcher in Rio Grande that has seen several fried decoders. I have the reasons all figured out so it can be avoided in the future. The first one was caused by a crossing of the motor leads causing either a short, a stall which caused the low max amps of the first decoder to fry. The second decoder was more of a simple issue than the other, the lighting outputs on a 2 function decoder should only be used for two lamps. I tried to use one to put a cab light in the engine which caused the entire lighting part of the board to fail, thankfully that is separate from the motor control so if you had to you could still run the engine. 

The final decoder I installed was a three function and motor decoder from Digitrax that allowed me to have the three lights I needed, those being cab, front, and rear, lights. I used a small axial light sold by Miniatronics for the cab lamp.








This install has been a very challenging one to fit everything desired into such a small space (without modification) so I advise that if you want a DCC GE 44 ton switcher buy the newer version from Bachmann, unless you have to have the cab light. When I got this model it was before the release of the DCC version so I took on the challenge and gave it my own unique flare.:laugh: 

Again picture to come of the finished engines soon, as well as a few new installs in the future. I plan to do a simple install of the sound module for the Bachmann EM-1 when mine arrives, another Athearn Blue Box/RTR engine with a ready to go on DCC swap kit, the install of a DCC decoder to an 8 pin plug in an Athearn SD50, and then some installation of NCE DCC decoders into some unknown engines, followed by installing a function only decoder in a freight/passenger car for lighting or a FRED (also has transponding), and then finishing it out with the install of a 6 function DCC decoder into an engine (possibly steam). Hope these installs are proving helpful!


----------



## iamwhiteshadow

I'm in process of trying to install a Digitrax SDH164 in a HO Scale Bachmann #56501 Mogul 2-6-0 Rio Grande #65 w/Smoke, I opened the train and found two small boards that I dont know if I should remove them or solder somewhere to them and the weal pickup thing has me baffled a bit as well. I have installed a few sound decoders but this is my first steam loco. I have looked almost every place and with any search I can find to figure this out but there is nothing I can find on this one. I'm not afraid to install it in the tender or to gut and cut so if anyone has info on this or even close to some sort of answer or direction I would be in your debt. 

Update: 
Took it apart and wired it up, on test everything works but the motor? I found three wires connected to it 1,yellow 1,red and 1,black soldered to the motor body? now I'm really felling lost.


----------



## NIMT

Need to post a picture or 2 for me to help you out.


----------



## iamwhiteshadow

*Hope this works*

I'm trying to send photos of the question motor and boards

UPDATE
Problem fixed.


----------



## jcarlson1701

Hello. Did you ever complete the Tsunami TSU-1000 install on your Bachmann SD40-2? I have this same loco and plan on installing the Tsunami in it soon. I'm a newbie to all of this and need all the help I can get. If you have completed this, could you post the steps required to complete the install. I would be forever grateful... 

Thanks! Josh


----------



## NIMT

Josh,
I have done thousands of installs.
Red flags went flying on your post because the Bachamnn SD40-2 does not take a TSU-1000 decoder. It takes a TSU-AT1000 #828041, and speaker #810113.
You have to install the LED's and make a speaker box for it too. It's a fairly easy install.


----------



## gc53dfgc

The Bachmann SD40-2 DCC equipped one I did when I did it there was no TSU-AT1000 decoder. I tried to find a drop in board but the only thing I could find was the TSU-1000 or 750. You are right though, the TSU-AT1000 would be a better option over the 1000. I didn't have to cut hardly any weight out to make the TSU-1000 fit though and there is little performance difference. He will still need to take out some weight to make the speaker fit if it does not come with a pre-drilled speaker mount like mine did.


----------



## jcarlson1701

NIMT said:


> Josh,
> I have done thousands of installs.
> Red flags went flying on your post because the Bachamnn SD40-2 does not take a TSU-1000 decoder. It takes a TSU-AT1000 #828041, and speaker #810113.
> You have to install the LED's and make a speaker box for it too. It's a fairly easy install.


Thanks. Actually I did mean the TSU-AT1000 (#828041) and speaker (#810113) which I just received today along with the corresponding enclosure and gasket kit. 

This will be the first time installing any type of decoder (both for the Bachmann sd40-2 loco and myself) so any help would be appreciated. Step by step instructions along with wiring new lights in the loco would be even more appreciated...


----------



## NIMT

Where did you get you enlosure from? I haven't been able to locate any in a while.
The wiring instructions for the TSU-AT1000 are pretty strait forward, PM me if you run into a problem.


----------



## jcarlson1701

NIMT said:


> Where did you get you enlosure from? I haven't been able to lacate any in a while.
> The wiring instructions for the TSU-AT1000 are pretty strait forward, PM me if you run into a problem.


I got it (and the rest of the items) from Litchfield Station www.litchfieldstation.com

SPENC-16x35 Speaker enclosure for 16 x 35 mm rectangular speaker US $6.50

Shipped fast with no problems. Thanks for your offer. When I get to the point of installing I'll definitely send you a PM.


----------



## gc53dfgc

Sean is right it should all be straight forward with the provided instructions. The speaker enclosure will be the only part that you might need to modify the engine to make fit. If you plan to install ditch lights like I chose to do on mine then put the bulbs into the ditch light cases first then drill the holes in the front of the shell and mount the lights. I ran the wires up and through the front to the decoder with small but not as small as I could have gone wire. 

I would recommend using something like thin speaker wire to run from the ditch lights to the decoder. DON'T forget to put the proper resistor in line to prevent the ditch lights from burning out instantly and good luck. I will also be more than willing to help if you need it.


----------



## jcarlson1701

Thanks for the tips. They're very helpful and appreciated. I still have to get the replacement directional lamps and the lamps for the ditch lights. I also want to get the exhaust fans. So once I order and receive those I'll be ready for my "little project" 

Thanks!!!


----------



## gc53dfgc

Did you manage to get any progress done with your installation Carlson?


----------



## musicwerks

gc53dfgc said:


> This is where I will be posting about how to install a Digitrax DH123D DCC decoder into a Bachmann Spectrum Line GE 44 Ton Switcher Yard Engine.
> 
> First Step,
> Examen the insides of the Bachmann Spectrum GE 44 Ton Switcher and plan where the DH123D DCC decoder will be installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://profile.imageshack.us/user/gc53dfgc
> 
> Engine with the shell on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://profile.imageshack.us/user/gc53dfgc
> 
> The engine with the shell taken off to expose the insides of this intricate switcher. Note that this switcher has two motors intead of the normal one. While this greatly improves pulling power this also makes the install of the Dh123D more complicated and compact.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://profile.imageshack.us/user/gc53dfgc
> 
> For the placement of the DH123D I am planning on putting it in the center or on one of the sides. there is currently no extra space in this engine so I will have to grind away a lot of the wheight to make room for the decoder. This limit on space will also increase the amount of difficulty that I will have installing the DH123D DCC decoder.
> 
> _____________________________________________________________________________
> Had a major mishap today and fried the DZ123 decoder for the 44 ton switcher. I have not figured out if it was the fact that I had two different pickup points or the fact that I am wiring it up for two motors. I am thinking it was the first one and am going to the train store tommorrow to get another one. Other than that I have to install the two lights and it will be finished. Then I will upload the install guide for this engine.
> 
> More updates to come...



Hi friend,

I am trying to install DCC for my bachmann 44T, the exact one you have. Can you pls share with me how you install your decoders for this? I am baffled by its twin motor

Thanks
Musicwerks


----------



## munkey

*AHM/Rivarossi 4-6-4 Hudson*

I recently purchased an older AHM/Rivarossi 4-6-4 Hudson and would like to convert to DCC with sound. I think there's plenty of room in the tender for this. I've converted some of my older diesel engines but have not done a steam engine yet. Has anyone converted this model or similar model. Or does anyone know of a tuitorial for AHM/Riviarossi steamers anywhere?

Thanks


----------



## dagnarble

*steam locos*

Do we have a sticky or website for decoder installs in various steam engines


----------



## Shifty1

Might be a dumb question, but I'll ask anyway.
Is it cheaper to convert a non dcc n scale locomotive to dcc? Or, is the cost about the same, buying dcc factory installed?


----------



## DonR

An N scale suitable decoder runs around $20.00. You can buy
used N DC locos from 5.00 on up depending on age. Older locos
may draw too much current for an N Scale decoder and you
may have to replace the motor, that's around 25 to 30 $. So, you could
get a nice DCC loco for 30.00 to 50.00 after upgrading. New diesel DCC
no sound N scale locos are selling at a discount at Hobbyline, one
of the major on lines dealers, for just under 100.00. You might be
lucky on Ebay and win a bid for less.

You takes your chances.

Don


----------



## Cycleops

Shifty1 said:


> Might be a dumb question, but I'll ask anyway.
> Is it cheaper to convert a non dcc n scale locomotive to dcc? Or, is the cost about the same, buying dcc factory installed?


If you're talking about new a DCC equipped loco will run about $25 more than the standard DC version. You might find though that the factory fitted version might be a short on features, so spending that difference on a decoder and fitting it yourself might pay dividends, if you're prepared to do it.


----------



## Santafe_man

I was wondering how you isolated the motor from the metal frame on the Bachman GP38? Or was the motor terminals already exposed like in the picture?
I have a Bachman Dash 8 which has the motor fully encased in the metal shell & looks like it needs major cutting of the metal frame to isolate it electrically.See picture attached.
Thanks, John.


----------



## DonR

I installed DCC in a Bachmann Spectrum GP30. The motor was somewhat
the same. You simply wrap the motor with electricians tape, or apply it to
the metal frame. Be sure to also use the tape where the metal motor tabs
are located. If your loco is like mine, they contacted the split frame for
DC power. When you get through, before you connect the
decoder, use a multimeter set to ohms and
make sure there is no contact from motor tabs to either side of the
frame, and that motor shell is not connected to either tab or the
metal frames.

Be sure to note which motor tab goes to the right rail. You will connect
to it one of the wires from the decoder so designated. This determines
that when you push forward button the loco goes forward. If you get
it backward you would have to change the direction in the decoder.

Don


----------



## Cycleops

You need to be to isolate everything. In some cases the motor is secured with a metal screw so you need to isolate that. You may be able to use the Delrin (hard plastic) screws that come with some Kadee coupler kits.


----------



## Cycleops

Santafe_man said:


> I was wondering how you isolated the motor from the metal frame on the Bachman GP38? Or was the motor terminals already exposed like in the picture?
> I have a Bachman Dash 8 which has the motor fully encased in the metal shell & looks like it needs major cutting of the metal frame to isolate it electrically.See picture attached.
> Thanks, John.


I can't see any wires so I imagine that you need to totally isolate the motor with tape, I use Kapton tape, don't be tempted to use black electrical tape. Once you have done that you need to solder the wires from the trucks directly to the decoder. Then you connect the relevant wires to the motor. It's a bit difficult to describe but you will find some help on YouTube.


----------



## Santafe_man

Thanks for the advice guys. Yes the frame is split in two electrically isolated by plastic washers with metal clips on the bogies making contact with the frame on each side.The motor contacts are encased on the sides by the diecast metal so I'm tempted to gouge out some metal & drill holes in the top to run wires down to the motor contacts.The motors a tight fit so there's not much room the encase in electrical tape.I will also need to make space up top to place the decoder. Picture attached of top view.

Regards, John.


----------



## DonR

If you find there is no connection of the motor metal case
to either motor tab it would still have to be insulated from
touching both electrfied sides. I assume it came that way.

If, like mine, the light board also has tabs to the
split frame and would need to be changed. Mine had diodes
that controlled direction lights. These had to be eliminated.

I made brass strips wedged between and insulator strip
and the split sides to pick up power for the decoder. 

The 'springs' on each truck that carries the track power
to the sides continues to work well on mine.

I was amazed when I first opened the GP30 and found
that there were no wires used at all. 

Don


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## Santafe_man

Ok,thanks again for the advice. Yes it does have the spring clips which transfer power from the bogies to the metal frame.I will have to spend some time on electrically isolating everything.Luckily I have a electronics background.
I was also told that some of the early 80s model Athern trains can have a very low motor resistance (5 ohms)which can blow up decoders.I was advised not to install decoders in these trains.Is this true?

Thanks, John.


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## Cycleops

Santafe_man said:


> I was also told that some of the early 80s model Athern trains can have a very low motor resistance (5 ohms)which can blow up decoders.I was advised not to install decoders in these trains.Is this true?
> 
> Thanks, John.


Most decoders for HO are rated at around 1amp peak so might not be usable in old Athearn motors which I believe draw much more. You would need to find the stall current of your motor with a multi meter and choose an appropriate decoder. Someone else on here who has first hand experience with your type of motor will be able to better advise you.


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## DonR

Yes, as Cycleops suggested, it is very important to
do a stall test on any DC loco that is not labeled DCC ready
before installing a decoder.

If you get a stall reading anywhere close to 1 amp it
would be best to replace the motor.

Don


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## Cycleops

This video might help you out: http://youtu.be/VhcnsYDZNuI


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## Santafe_man

I watched the Utube video,very similar to the one I am modifying at the moment,thanks, I also have been reading books I have on DCC & it mentions how to test the motor stall current.

John.


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## prosyne

Did you ever get that 44T working ? I'm doing one of the same vintage at the moment, but I see that both motors are direct-connected to the wheel pickups. You have to clip the pickups and then run new wires to the motor commutators. When you are done, there should be 4 wires coming from each truck: 2 pickups and 2 motor wires.


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## Cycleops

Can't really get my head around that prosyn, 2 pickups and 2 motor wires, on each truck. Where do the first 2 go to? I was watching a video on YouTube where a guy had installed a Tsunami in a 44t, only it was a steam sound version!


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## DonR

I'm just as confused as Cycleops.

I would think that both motors would be connected in parallel to
the motor wires of the decoder. I assume you have checked the
stall current of those two motors to ensure that your decoder
can handle it. Most are rated at 1 amp ma

Usually, the wires from the left side wheels of both trucks are tied together as
are those from the right side wheels.

The resulting pair of wires is the power input to the decoder.

Don


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## prosyne

DonR said:


> I'm just as confused as Cycleops.
> 
> I would think that both motors would be connected in parallel to
> the motor wires of the decoder. I assume you have checked the
> stall current of those two motors to ensure that your decoder
> can handle it. Most are rated at 1 amp ma
> 
> Usually, the wires from the left side wheels of both trucks are tied together as
> are those from the right side wheels.
> 
> The resulting pair of wires is the power input to the decoder.
> 
> Don


Yes, you wire both motors together in parallel (make sure they are both driving in the same direction...) and you wire both motor pickups together. Then, splice the Orange and Grey decoder wires to the motors, and the Red and Black decoder wires to the pickups. These tiny motors draw very little power. I observed 0.35A stall current for each motor @ 12V, so the worst case would be 700mA.

Heres some pics:

1) a motor with new wires soldered to the brush holders

2) close up of the truck minus the motor. You can see the tiny springs from the wheel pickups that have to be clipped off between the two posts. These normally contact the brush holders, but we don't want them anymore.

3) A truck with all 4 wires. 2 factory wires from the wheel wipers, plus 2 new ones from the motor.

I'll post a finished pic when I get done.


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## Cycleops

I see, so each truck has its own motor.


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## Ky Bob

I'm a newbie thinking of getting into HO MR and sure wished the pictures were still there from the original OP sticky!


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## Cycleops

If the thread is a sticky it should be there. What are you wanting to know?


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## Eusjim

*Adding DCC to what scale engines*

Lot of good info. Pictures didn't come out on my iphone. What scale are you modifying in all the above. I expect HO.


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## Stan D

My guess as to the missing pics, is probably either the host, or the pics at the host are no longer there. I'm on my PC, and I can't see them.


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