# Help with configuring NCE Power Cab with Kato N Unitrack



## ibroberts (Jan 12, 2022)

Hi all -

I'm having a hard time setting up my Kato N-scale unitrack with the DCC NCE Power Cab. I'm using the included track wire feeder (with Tamiya plug removed, wires stripped 1/4" like the manual recommends, and NCE track wire plug tightened hand tight) -- but getting 0 amps on the track, and my DCC loco does not respond at all. The red LED on the PCP does not come on either. I have tried reversing the wiring a few times with no luck. This is using the included Kato 20-041 62mm straight feeder that came with my Kato M1 DC track starter set. Note that the original DC power pack is not connected to the layout in any way. I have the Power Cab plugged into the left most port of the PCP with red LED oriented down. The Power Cab functions as expected, but no track power is detected.

This is connected to a simple loop of Unitrack I had set up to get the DCC loco running and figure out how to operate. Any ideas would be helpful! I've also tried this same procedure with Kato UniJoiner feeder wires and had the same exact result - nothing. I considered calling NCE direct but figured I would try here first.

Also, with all the DCC equipment disconnected and the DC starter set reconnected, both DC and DCC locos run perfectly with no issues. My DCC loco has a K1D4 decoder that can detect DC mode and runs as expected.

Any ideas? Here are some pics of the wiring setup:

Ian


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

With your PowerCab, are you using the flat cable or the coiled cable? You need to use the flat cable and not the coiled cable. The coiled cable will not conduct track power.


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## ibroberts (Jan 12, 2022)

Wow, I feel dumb! I was using the coiled cable. Using the flat cable worked immediately. Jeez - thanks for clarifying that!


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

ibroberts said:


> Wow, I feel dumb! I was using the coiled cable. Using the flat cable worked immediately. Jeez - thanks for clarifying that!


You're welcome. And don't feel dumb! Over the years we've had numerous people ask that same question, and guess what cable they were using? 
The coiled cable is for using a second throttle. With the Powercab, the main throttle must remain plugged in at all times because it supplies the track power. 
Feel free to ask any questions you may have: Remember, the only stupid question is the one you don't ask!


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## mesenteria (Oct 29, 2015)

Happy to see that you were quickly helped by a member here, no harm done, and that you now understand that everyone new to the hobby or to one of it's constituent facets is likely to get at least a part of it wrong. We have all been there. Some of us more than once.


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## Doobies1978 (10 mo ago)

flyboy2610 said:


> You're welcome. And don't feel dumb! Over the years we've had numerous people ask that same question, and guess what cable they were using?
> The coiled cable is for using a second throttle. With the Powercab, the main throttle must remain plugged in at all times because it supplies the track power.
> Feel free to ask any questions you may have: Remember, the only stupid question is the one you don't ask!


Im having the same issue as Ian and I have followed your instructions exactly but am still not getting power to the track. I even switched out the feeder track with a new one and still no power to the track. This is for a HO scale. Any other suggestions?


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Well, if you've done all that and still don't have power, then you don't really have the same issue. You will need a voltmeter to check further (very inexpensive ones are available at Habor Freight and online). First of all, check to make sure your track isn't shorted somewhere; maybe a stray screw or tool causing a problem. You need to make sure that you REALLY don't have power to track (just because trains aren't moving doesn't mean no power). Starting at the track, systematically check each component. Do you have power on the feeder piece itself? if not, do you have power at the track end of the feeder cable? Do you have power at the "Track" outputs of the DCC power pack? And so on, right back to the outlet in the wall. My son once spent about 15 minutes troubleshooting, only to eventually discover that a GFCI had tripped upstream in the same circuit, cutting off power to the outlet he was using.


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