# Help With Dead Loco



## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

I have a diesel loco that suddenly stopped working. (HO scale -- DC system).

I am not sure what brand it is. It was bought a number of years ago from a hobby shop in another state. When it died, I checked the box it came in. It is an Athearn box, but the stamp on the end is for a different model and railroad. I assume now that the store used whatever box was handy -- and I never noticed it until now.

This loco has never had any problems before. It has been used, but not a lot. It has been so consistent that I use it as my track tester. The other day I stopped it on a straight track section, detached some cars from the end of the train (without touching the loco) then tried to restart the train. Nothing happened.

I moved the loco to other parts of the track -- nothing. The track voltage checked out with a volt meter, and the loco's cab light is on. And other locos still run on the track.

It seems odd that the loco went from working perfectly for its whole life to not working at all. It also seems unlikely that there is a loose connection in the loco, since it never worked intermittently and was not touched between the last successful run and the failure,

Any idea what component might have failed so suddenly -- and any ideas whether it might be possible to fix it. I have the patience and ability to work with small things, but I have no experience at all with the inner workings of locos. I do not even know how to take it apart.

Thanks.


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## Rusty (Jun 23, 2011)

The motor needs to take apart to clean up and oil them to get it running again. It's my opinion.


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

It could also be the electrical pick up points need to be cleaned. IF it has never been taken apart, i bet it's just needing some cleaning and lubing.

Is it All wheel drive?

can you take pictures of it? we need to see all angles as some come apart with removing screws and others use a small flat head screw driver to pop the side tabs.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Seems that the first step is to try to identify the make of 
the Loco...then go to that make's web site and try to find
a line drawing of the innards. That would tell you how
to get the shell off properly.

There are several ways to ID it:

Post good pics of it here on this Thread.

Search Amazon and Ebay for identical locos with
the same road name & number.

Take it to a hobby shop or model club.

With that starting info we can be of more help.

Don


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## waltr (Aug 15, 2011)

Common problems are:
1- wire to motor or from wheel pick up broke.
2- tender trucks turned around (if a steam loco)


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## I Am Fasha (Apr 2, 2013)

I agree with all of you and all of these are good starting points. I would only add one thing. If it is getting power, and the lights working would suggest that, I would look at the brushes in the motor. If its old, and one of the brushes chose that moment to break, then you will loose power right there.


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

Thanks for all of the suggestions.

The internet search identified the loco as a Bachmann SD45. It is from the pre-DCC era -- nowhere to insert a DCC controller card. I figured out that we bought this about 20 years ago. However it has spent 3/4 of its life in storage and was only used intermittently when I had a layout set up.

I took out the two screws holding the fuel tank (I presume -- I know little about diesels -- most of my locos are steam). Then I was able to gently pry and lift off the shell. Inside are two large pieces of heavy metal surrounding the motor assembly and running the full length of the loco -- and hiding all of the electrical connections.

I located and removed three screws that were holding the two halves together -- one at each end and one near the middle. The upper portion of the halves separated easily, but the bottom edges would not release. I could not find another screw to remove, and I did not want to force anything.

Just for kicks, I put the disassembled loco back on the track and to my surprise, it began to run. So I lubed all of the gears and moving connections that I could reach (with Labelle lubes) and reassembled the loco. It is still running fine. I have no idea what I did to fix it.

However, the next time it acts up I would like to be able to disassemble it enough to reach the motors and electrical connections. Can anybody tell me how to proceed beyond where I stopped at?

I have a picture of the inside of the loco. Can someone tell me how to post pictures in a post? I am new to this forum.

Thanks


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## I Am Fasha (Apr 2, 2013)

Good for you! Sometimes you have to show the locos a little time and love, if you dont, they will make you :dunno:

This is a link to a thread, its is a bit dated, but the same rules apply: http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=2595


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

Here is a picture of the inside of the loco.


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## I Am Fasha (Apr 2, 2013)

Looks like a candidate for a decoder once you go DCC. But remember, some decoders can go dual mode. Im in the process of hard wiring my old locomotives. By hard wiring I mean the locos did not come DCC ready. DCC ready, they have a board with an 8 or 9 pin plug, that you can add a "plug in decoder" to and run on DCC. Hard wiring is taking a decoder without a plug ( or with a plug and cutting it off) and soldering each wire to the loco where it needs to go. Sounds hard but it is not once you understand where everything goes.


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## Rusty (Jun 23, 2011)

I see there is three clips to pop off with small screwdriver while pressing down the clip to loose the cover. There one is on top in middle, one on front and one on end.


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## ggnlars (Aug 6, 2013)

I find these units to be very hard to fix motor problems. The motor is open frame. The brushes and springs are held in place with a plastic material held in place between the metal weights. The motor electrically connects to either side of the weights, appropriately. The trucks are also electrically connected to one side each. With age this plastic material disintegrates. The brushes lose the pressure to contact with the armature. I would say you we're lucky that you didn't get the two pieces apart. Typically this plastic will come apart with the side. I haven't found a way to fix it. Others may have a technique, but I have not had any luck at that point. 
In jostling with the unit, you reestablished the contact either with one of the trucks or the motor. These contacts are made with metal spring clips. For what ever reason one had a dead spot that you cleared. 
When they run, these are very good. When the have problems, they are very frustrating. 
Good luck with it.
Larry


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## MtRR75 (Nov 27, 2013)

Thanks for the info. So far it is still running, but I don't run it often -- too busy with work, and spending what time I have right now on wiring and track issues,


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## rrgrassi (May 3, 2012)

Can motor with fly wheels...Being a split frame, the electrical contacts can be a pain, and get dirty being thatthey are usually bonze/phosphor springs that typically give the electrical connection. They need to be clean and dry, free from oil, grease and grime.


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