# 2325 layout



## RONR11 (May 20, 2016)

New to the forum and trying to get a set for my grandson and have a lot of questions but will start with my big problem first. I have got a 2325 complete set and is about 7 ft long, problem is it keeps jumping the track on turns, I'm using "0" standard track, the best i can figure is my radius is not correct. Can someone tell me where to start looking thanks Ron


----------



## RONR11 (May 20, 2016)

*F3 my mistake*

Sorry posted wrong train, didn't do my homework it's a F3. Diesel setup


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

RONR11 said:


> New to the forum and trying to get a set for my grandson and have a lot of questions but will start with my big problem first. I have got a 2325 complete set and is about 7 ft long, problem is it keeps jumping the track on turns, I'm using "0" standard track, the best i can figure is my radius is not correct. Can someone tell me where to start looking thanks Ron





RONR11 said:


> Sorry posted wrong train, didn't do my homework it's a F3. Diesel setup


Welcome to the site.
Did you mean #2343?
If so that is meant to run on O track, although the problem will be while running through a switch. Are you sure you don't have O/27 track? 
The difference,








Different curves,








What color are the ties?
How many ties on your curves?
The 2325 number? Is that the locomotive's number or a set number?
Some pictures might help us ID a problem.


----------



## rogruth (Mar 6, 2012)

Jumping the tracks on curves. Do you mean completely leaving the tracks or just a derailment where a few wheels come off the track?
If it is the first try lowering the speed and not go into the curves at high speeds.


----------



## RONR11 (May 20, 2016)

*2353 update*

Thanks Big Ed for the greeting and replies from you and Rogruth,
I believe I will need to go to the 72 radius and make longer straights. It will stay on if I run slower and only the trunks jump off not any of cars. I am right now using a oval track with 2 curves on each turn with a straight between and 3 straights on each long run. the curve tracks have 3 ties on each track and made in NY. I'm trying to keep this on a 4x8 but may have to go larger to accommodate a longer train Thanks guys for your help. Ron : PS not sure where I got the 2325 number but being 75 yrs old and trying to send on a i phone that's the only excuse I can use. Sorry for confusion.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

What is the number stamped on the locomotive?

72 curves make a 72" circle, so to be comfortable you would need like a 7' table. Maybe at least a 6'5" table.

A lot of trains will handle a 54" curve, then a 5' table would do it.


----------



## RONR11 (May 20, 2016)

*2353 update*

Hey Ed the bottom says 2333-20 is that what I'm looking for. 
Thanks Ron


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

NYC or Santa Fe? Your number should be on the nose of the cab too, in the number board.

Read the last paragraph here,
http://www.tandem-associates.com/lionel/lionel_trains_2333_diesel.htm

Bookmark this site (if you don't have it) go to the home page when you are done looking at this (down the bottom) then click on the master index, it lists all the Postwar Lionel trains and stuff that they made.
Handy to look at.
You might have O/31 curves maybe they are too tight for this locomotive.
That should work on O/54 curves fine?
Save you some room on the table.

You don't have brown ties on the curves do you? Brown ties would mean that you have O/27 sized curves.
Unless it is the locomotive, your problem is most likely in the curve radius.


----------



## RONR11 (May 20, 2016)

Thanks again Ed, no the ties are blackish. I'm going to order a some 54's while i'm picking your brain I notice when I blow the horn the train light go out and almost comes to a stop. I got it hooked up to a zw and have tried both sides. The horn may or may not sound. Any thoughts Ron


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

The locomotive has a battery for the horn?
If you have not done so already open it up. A lot of times someone leaves the battery in and they corrode the crap out of the train.
Take it out and put it back in as needed so you won't forget that it is in.
You will see the battery cover underneath the frame.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

RONR11 said:


> Thanks again Ed, no the ties are blackish. I'm going to order a some 54's while i'm picking your brain I notice when I blow the horn the train light go out and almost comes to a stop. I got it hooked up to a zw and have tried both sides. The horn may or may not sound. Any thoughts Ron


I was posting about the horn while you were typing.
Clean track helps, it could be the horn button itself.
No steel wool on the track.
Track cleaning,
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=2433&highlight=tubular+track

Edit,
Clean the wheels too.


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

A 2333 thread I found.
I posted some diagrams in here,
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?p=17419&posted=1#post17419

Maybe you have a loose wire?


----------



## RONR11 (May 20, 2016)

I put a new battery and made sure I had 1.5 to the contacts on the relay, also cleaned horn contacts as suggested on net. Still just a little toot sometimes but still slows down . Would I be better to get a diesel shed?  Thanks again. Ron


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Another 2333 thread.
This comment is in it,  check the gauging of the wheels. If the wheels are too far apart, they will climb the rails.

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=75873&highlight=2333


----------



## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

RONR11 said:


> I put a new battery and made sure I had 1.5 to the contacts on the relay, also cleaned horn contacts as suggested on net. Still just a little toot sometimes but still slows down . Would I be better to get a diesel shed? Thanks again. Ron


Wait till the T man logs on he might have some suggestions.
He is in love with the 2333.

When you trying the horn by any chance do you have lighted passenger cars hooked up to the locomotives?


----------



## RONR11 (May 20, 2016)

Never thought to check the wiring. Will look tomorrow. Thanks for diagrams


----------



## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Make sure both motors are working! As for the horn what transformer are you using? Some like the zw have 2 positions for the horn, if not engaging all the way the train will slow as you blow the horn. It should slow a little momentarily. A lot of good info in the threads ed posted, and make sure its clean inside. I mentioned if one motor is turning much faster then the other it can jump the rails.


----------



## RONR11 (May 20, 2016)

Both motors are working so I'm guessing I need to get some 054 tracks. Can anyone tell me how many I need to make a 45degree turn. Thanks Ron


----------



## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

16 make a circle. So 4 peices for 90 degrees. Did you run it in reverse to see if that helps? The motors have to run at similar speeds, not just run. If one is slower then the other it will de rail. I'm thinking this should run fine on 0 32 tubular track. It doesn't have magnetracrion, but the rig is heavy. I'll try mine on the o 32 track soon. Obviously, it will preform better on larger curves but it isn't nessessarlly the problem.


----------



## RONR11 (May 20, 2016)

*Track radius*

Didn't run on track. Just jumped wires to rollers and gd. I'll check on tracks. Anybody that all of you deal with? Also while I'm picking your brain. Is it possible to use a horn shed and operate it from the Zw whistle instead of a switch? That would take care of my horn problem. I just can't understand why the horn stops the train but will work on my coal tender whistle


----------



## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Yes the horn shed will work, American flyer also makes a horn billboard. The horns on these were meep, meet, so toy like but I like them. I would look at the wires and make sure they are connected. Did you check the zw contacts that operate the horn? Sometimes the contacts just need cleaning. Like I said it has like 2 positions, you have to get it into the higher position. You can pop the top offive the zw and take a look while it's un plugged. I'm not sure if a faulty rectifier disk will cause this. Did you try swapping out the power feeds on the zw? Maybe it will work on the other switch?


----------



## RONR11 (May 20, 2016)

Thanks again for your help, I tried the horn on both sides and on 2 other zw's. I see the horn sheds are pretty cheap Do you think it's possible to eliminate the switch and still use the whistle to operate the horn?


----------



## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Ok, so you narrowed it to the horn on the loco, I'll take athe mine in the am. For the shed you need a switch of some sort. They work on diffrent principles. Try running the horn without it on the track. Take off the shell and manually push up on the relay. See if it works.


----------



## RONR11 (May 20, 2016)

Will do and also I'll try holding the whistle all the way and see if that makes a difference. Thanks for helping me work thru this


----------



## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Ok, and you need the rig powered up to check the relay, so on the track in neutral, been a few since I worked on one. If the contacts look dirty, place a thin peice of cardboard in between them , push the contacts together and pull the cardboard out. After a few times it will clean the contacts. Hope that makes sense.


----------



## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Real good thread on fixing horns here
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=29377


----------



## RONR11 (May 20, 2016)

I'll check it out and update my finding. Thanks for site


----------



## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

I have the complete Santa Fe set with a ABBA, and 6 cars, and it runs perfectly with no de-railments on 042 027 track, no turn-outs.


----------



## RONR11 (May 20, 2016)

Thanks fly, sjm also said he uses 042 so it looks like that's my best option. Can I also use. 0 gauge as all my tracks are 0 at this time ? Ron


----------



## RONR11 (May 20, 2016)

Made some progress the arm that moves on the horn relay was rusted and not making good contact. Horn seems to work now although it don't sound like a train
Horn. Tried to adj and too cover off as per horn post and cleaned but I understand that's to be expected. Thanks for all the members that helped me. Thanks


----------



## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

RONR11 said:


> Thanks fly, sjm also said he uses 042 so it looks like that's my best option. Can I also use. 0 gauge as all my tracks are 0 at this time ? Ron


I'm not sure as to the availability of 042 in "O" gauge. Hopefully some one here with more experience than I can help..042 worked great for me, as my son when he was younger liked the higher speeds 042 was capable of doing. Good luck my friend.


----------



## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Plenty of o 42 to be found I didn't get check mine out as I was up all night at work. OK, so the relay is rusted, if its not too bad some contact cleaner might work, and dont forget to try to clean out the parts that connect. Try the cardboard or a small peice of Scott brite. Sometimes a dremal with a copper wheel can work. If all else fails you can remove the rusted peices and soak in evaporust. Or you can always buy a replacement from the train tender. All o tubular track will work together, even if different brands, Lionel , Kline , Marx...now make sure you dont have 027 track, you can get that in different diameters too but its different. The height is smaller.


----------

