# MARX TIN LITHO ROLLING STOCK ASSEMBLED FROM JUNK



## BENZ TRAINZ (Sep 22, 2017)




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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Fun with litho parts!

One related comment. Some people prefer to twist the tabs after re-assembly ... about 45 degrees or so. The thought here is that the twist imposes a bit less fatigue to the metal for repeated disassembly / reassembly.

That said, I myself usually bend. But, despite that, I usually cuss at the "bend guys" when one of my tabs breaks off in the process!



TJ


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

A few years back there was a website where you could order printed shrink wrap for Marx cars. you would paint the car body a background color to fill in the roof and sides and then apply the shrink wrap with a hair dryer to fill in the details. The results were astounding with car bodies that looked very much like the lithographed originals.

Unfortunately they are no longer around.hwell:


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

BENZ TRAINZ said:


>


Nice. There are a multitude of cheap decals on ebay. Search "Army model decals" and sort by lowest price. I saw some army "stars" that would go a long way to dress up that train.


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## Steve "Papa" Eastman (Jan 27, 2016)

On many of my Marx 6" tin, I prefer to only bend over one tab on each side when reassembling. It's more than enough under adult handling and saves the other tabs for later if one breaks.

Steve "Papa" Eastman




tjcruiser said:


> Fun with litho parts!
> 
> One related comment. Some people prefer to twist the tabs after re-assembly ... about 45 degrees or so. The thought here is that the twist imposes a bit less fatigue to the metal for repeated disassembly / reassembly.
> 
> ...


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## BENZ TRAINZ (Sep 22, 2017)

i asked that my posts and membership to this forum be deleted, but obviously the guy in charge doesnt know how to do that either. he sure as **** doesnt know anything about running this forum...


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## Steve "Papa" Eastman (Jan 27, 2016)

rkenney said:


> A few years back there was a website where you could order printed shrink wrap for Marx cars. you would paint the car body a background color to fill in the roof and sides and then apply the shrink wrap with a hair dryer to fill in the details. The results were astounding with car bodies that looked very much like the lithographed originals.
> 
> Unfortunately they are no longer around.hwell:


The site was Faux Toys. He has long been out of business, but this link may take you to his old site. http://fauxtoys.com/pages/100-train.html

Steve "Papa" Eastman


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

Ben, 

In the past I have made a few comments that you took as bashing you. One being that Marx are ""toy trains. That was a quote from a little boy that wanted his Dad to start enjoying his Marx trains. The Dad said he didn't like the unrealistic appearance of Marx tinplate. Then the boy said; "Dad it's different when you realize Marx trains are toys." His Dad completely reversed his opinion.

Then we had the 'E' unit comment, that you bypass them, and now add switches to them. I have close to 100 Marx locomotives, and every single one of them has a working 'E' unit. It takes very little time to free them up, and make them work. One thing, the plungers MUST BE DRY NOT oiled. You modify the engines with patched together jumper wires, and frankly ruining originality of many Locos. 

When you are gone, someone may pay a LOT for your collection ONLY to find that none of the pieces are original, and basically for collectors worthless. 
Epoxy headlight lenses, filling in the marker light holes because you don't want to wait until you have two extra ones.

One last point, you keep saying in your videos that you paid $4.99 for a locomotive and you were the only bidder. I follow every Marx O Scale post on eBay that I can find, and if a decent Locomotive had a $4.99 bid, YOU would NOT be the only bidder. Some junk Locos are listed at $30.00. You also leave out the amount of shipping.
Just once in your videos, list a reference to the so called auction you won and were the only bidder.

I could go on and on but I won't, because some find the information useful.
I know the administrator does not condone bashing of members, HOWEVER, you have made it clear that you do not respect or like this forum. Because you could not handle even the slightest constructive criticism. 

One piece of advice, Add a disclaimer to your posts, to the effect of, " The modification shown in this video will render the collect-ability of your finished product to near zero."

Sorry John about the rant but what Ben is doing to Marx is WRONG on every level.

Dan 
RANT OVER.


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

Panther said:


> ... I have close to 100 Marx locomotives, and every single on of them has a working E unit. It takes very little time to free them up and make them work.
> 
> When you are gone, someone may pay a LOT for your collection ONLY to find that none of the pieces are original, and basically for collectors worthless.
> 
> ...


+1 on the E-units. I'm new to Marx (6 months). But I "inherited" two Commodore Vanderbilts. Repeated use of CRC (electrical contact cleaner) into the small visible openings of the e-unit and cycling them on the bench and both E-units run like new.

+ on collectability. Of the two Marx locos, one is nearly restored in the original Marx black paint scheme. The other, painted red to match the Marx litho passenger cars (my "Red Rocket" train akin to the Lionel NJ Blue Comet).

Side Note: Rustoleum Sunrise Red Gloss is an incredible match for the Marx red (litho window) passenger cars. I had a couple where the tops were horrible but the sides in very good shape. Taped them off just above the black line at the top and used the Sunrise red on the roofs. I can't tell the difference.

-1 on some hacks. I saw a video where a light dimmer was placed on top of a train transformer that only worked on full throttle. Anyone who knows how a simple AC light dimmer works would never use it on a transformer (clipped sine wave). It could degrade the transformer and make it dangerous by the nature of the irregular magnetic cycling.

Dan, you'll have a fit  when I post what I've done to some 1929 Lionel tinplate passenger cars. But these went for ~$12.00 each on eBay (including shipping) and they were nowhere near collectible grade. But I am ecstatic with the result.

To each his own ...

Regards,

Mike


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

Millstonemike said:


> +1 on the E-units. I'm new to Marx (6 months). But I "inherited" two Commodore Vanderbilts. Repeated use of CRC (electrical contact cleaner) into the small visible openings of the e-unit and cycling them on the bench and both E-units run like new.
> 
> + on collectability. Of the two Marx locos, one is nearly restored in the original Marx black paint scheme. The other, painted red to match the Marx litho passenger cars (my "Red Rocket" train akin to the Lionel NJ Blue Comet).
> 
> ...


Mike;
If a buyer is informed or the seller makes it clear that the restorations or modifications have been done, to each his own. 
I for one do not want to lay down a premium price for an item I desire, only to find out unaware that the seller has bastardized the item, an destroyed it's collective value. 
Personally I have no issue with anyone making modifications to their trains, what I hate is telling everyone false claims of E units, or any part of a train is not salvageable, when in fact t6hat is not true. Like I mention, bypassing an E unit and then adding a switch ti mimic the effects of a working unit, it ruining an otherwise good collectible piece that when someone unaware buys it, is getting hosed.
I restore Marx Loco's and tinplate HOWEVER I make it perfectly clear they are restorations, and I don't just paint a shell and stick on some lettering that looks close to original. I have spent HUNDREDS of hours perfecting my decals, and I completely take a locomotive down to the last part and restore them to as NEW condition. Like you say, To each his own, BUT MAKE SURE YOU TELL THIS WHEN YOU SELL THIS.

Here are some examples of my restorations.

Dan


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

Panther said:


> Mike;
> If a buyer is informed or the seller makes it clear that the restorations or modifications have been done, to each his own.
> I for one do not want to lay down a premium price for an item I desire, only to find out unaware that the seller has bastardized the item, an destroyed it's collective value.
> Personally I have no issue with anyone making modifications to their trains, what I hate is telling everyone false claims of E units, or any part of a train is not salvageable, when in fact t6hat is not true. Like I mention, bypassing an E unit and then adding a switch ti mimic the effects of a working unit, it ruining an otherwise good collectible piece that when someone unaware buys it, is getting hosed.
> ...


Agreed. As you say, any sale should note it is a restoration (moral high ground).

My "restorations" are not nearly as comprehensive as yours. I'm going to run these engines so they'll just get worn again.

Your red Commodore was the inspiration for mine.


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

When reviewing this thread awhile ago, I was looking at the photo of the Army Supply train bottom view, I would like to add, every part of my restorations are ORIGINAL parts, I do not use after market or handmade parts.

Mike Please post photos of your work. I was not trying to belittle anyone, just that I am very passionate about keep these trains that are still collectible in their original parts configuration. I only restore trains that are really junk to begin with.

Dan


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## Millstonemike (Aug 9, 2018)

Panther said:


> ...
> 
> Mike Please post photos of your work. I was not trying to belittle anyone, just that I am very passionate about keep these trains that are still collectible in their original parts configuration. I only restore trains that are really junk to begin with.
> 
> Dan



"Not yet ready for prime time." But I will post pics when they are.

A question about making your own decals. All the reviews I've read on the various brands of water decal sheets have indicated you can really see the "clear" when it is applied. These sheets would be for inkjet or laser printers.

What is your method?


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

Panther said:


> Here are some examples of my restorations.
> Dan


the motor shown looks like a new one .. good job ..


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## seayakbill (Jan 16, 2016)

Panther, some really terrific Marx steamer restorations. IMO, they would look great running on any layout, even the scale layouts.

Bill


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## Panther (Oct 5, 2015)

Thank you all so much for the very encouraging words about my restorations. I am very thankful that my work history allowed me the opportunity to obtain the skills I would need after I retired, also the interest in my work allowing me to buy equipment I would utilize after I retired. Things like, Lathe/Mill combo, wire feed MIG welder, Spot welder, sandblaster, all the neat items that make the job so much easier.
When I restore a train, I take it down as far as I can. It does add tremendously to the appearance of the finished train.

Dan


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