# DCC wiring with 2 wyes and an AR module



## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

Hi guys,

I had a thread going in layout design forum that ended up being dragged down by a couple members bickering at each other, so I'm hoping to start fresh here.

I'm in the planning phase, and have a question about how to incorporate an auto reversing module into a draft layout. It's a big N scale layout, and I am considering a couple wyes to allow the train to change directions.

Please don't get hung up on the design aspects. The final plan won't be so symmetrical and will have more yards, but no other "reversing" aspects that would cause a short.. What I need is someone who understands wiring DCC with Wyes to tell me if I have the wiring correct, or if it's more complicated than I have drafted.

Hopefully, this is pretty self explanatory









I'm thinking one AR module connected to the isolated eat=west leg between the 2 wyes.

The three turnouts in each Wye would be electric frog, all others will be insulated with feeders where necessary.


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## 65steam (Dec 18, 2019)

I don't see a need for the insulated rail joiners on your main line. It's only in your middle section where you would need the polarity to be reversed, and the two places where you have indicated insulated real joiners at each end should be sufficient for that.


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## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

65steam said:


> I don't see a need for the insulated rail joiners on your main line. It's only in your middle section where you would need the polarity to be reversed, and the two places where you have indicated insulated real joiners at each end should be sufficient for that.


Thanks! I see what you mean. I was following the advice of some wiring examples online that had the insulation in all 3 areas. But I believe you may correct!


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## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

So, should I use electric frog turnouts and wyes in each of the Wye junctions (total of 6 turnouts)? And insulated ones everywhere else? Of can the all be electrified?


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

Jeff

65 Steam is correct...there is no need for gaps or insulated
joiners in your main line. Some of the advice you see posted
could have been written for use on a very large layout that
might have 'power districts' which are isolated from each
other. Those guys may be correct for their situation
but do confuse the average modeler.

Electrofrog turnouts are needed only when you run small
4 wheel switchers or older locos that do not have
all wheel power pickup. The fact of a 'reverse loop
isolated section' has no bearing on your choice of
turnout electrical characteristics. I used only
Insulfrog turnouts on my room size layout and had
no problems.

Don

Don


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## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

Thank you, DonR!

I think I'll stick with insulfrogs then. If I do that, then the horizontal stretch between the 2 wyes would be insulated naturally, correct? So the only feeder to that middle stretch would be from the AR module.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

I agree, Insulfrogs are a your better choice but you
would still need gaps in both rails at both turnouts to avoid shorts as
the isolated section changes phases (polarity), It would not
be insulated 'naturally'. Yes, the only feed to the isolated
section is from the AR1 module which takes it's power from
your DCC bus.

Don


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## JeffHurl (Apr 22, 2021)

DonR said:


> I agree, Insulfrogs are a your better choice but you
> would still need gaps in both rails at both turnouts to avoid shorts as
> the isolated section changes phases (polarity), It would not
> be insulated 'naturally'. Yes, the only feed to the isolated
> ...


Got it. Thank you very much!


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I've removed the the confrontational posts, it won't happen again.


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## kilowatt62 (Aug 18, 2019)

Another vote here for Insulfrog turnouts. With the exception of a few #6 Atlas mark 3 or 4 series turnouts, peco are all that I have here. The power routing feature on pecos can be negated but why bother right? Easier to use a toggle switch imo.

On the subject of short 0-4-0 steam locos and such and, the one truck e’ pickup thing:
A piece of strategically placed Adhesive backed foil tape (traditionally used for old school alarm systems) can be placed into the frog. An exacto knife for trimming and, a very small screwdriver to push into place, will get the job done in lining small areas within the frog needed to carry the power along without making it a true electro frog.


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