# Busy Traffic on Deutsche Bahn



## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

Some recent photos of my Deutsche Bahn Modelleisenbahn.

DB Br.111 with a RegioExpress approaching the grade crossing at Oberrittersgrün:





































Overlooking the station of Oberrittersgrün and village of Michaelstadt to the Jägerhaus beyond:










Busy evening at Oberrittersgrün as Br.111 prepares to depart as Br.187 has just arrived, and a through train of the ÖBB passes on the outside:










The camera catches ÖBB 1014 with an express consist on the way out of town along the road that leads to the new DB staging yard.










Followed shortly by Deutsche Bahn's Br.120 with a Swiss consist:










Enroute to a call for service somewhere in Michaelstadt:










Looking down the mountainside at the tracks approaching Oberrittersgrün:










Former DB train crew housing aways down from the station:


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## Magic (Jan 28, 2014)

Looking very nice indeed, a very nice layout.
Good to see some different architecture.

Magic


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## Spence (Oct 15, 2015)

Beautiful looking layout. :appl::appl:


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

The mountain/cliff face in the background catches my eye. I'm near to embarking on my second great experiment in terrain building -- having more or less completed the first -- a mountain outcrop similar to what I can make out in the pic above. But using pink foam ... still I think it be hard to make a proper looking rocky outcrop. I see you used plaster which is probably superior in many ways since it's more sculpt-able. I just want to be able to take mine down and place it in a box.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

I used plaster cloth and Sculptimold over a cardboard form for the mountain and other rocky areas. It is permanent and cannot be removed without destroying it.

I have seen sculpted foam, but it's a real mess to do and very time consuming. But, I guess you can remove it in one big section if it must be moved. That would be it's only advantage.

Plaster cloth and Sculptimold dries fast and has a good working time. In some cases, depending upon the application thickness, it can be applied and worked in the morning and painted that same evening.

But it _is_ permanent.


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## Severn (May 13, 2016)

All this is a little off topic but I took pink 1/2" sheet foam from HD and cut it into my desired shape -- a corner basically with a curve for track. I then stacked several of these up but offset back slightly to product a kind of "cut" look. I used a utility knife, but then experimented with a hot wire cutter. I don't like either. (it seems that you need cutters, and shaped cutters, and gougers and probably some sanding, etc...)

Anyway my original idea was to smooth it out into a kind of hill but I got lazy and just left it in a terraced form. I glued and painted it up, and applied various ground coverings... found some trees in a kit form and build those and put it all together. It looks ok but was a messy endeavor and that's without a lot of foam cutting. 

I never found a good glue to hold the foam together but have an unopened bottle of gorilla glue original to try next. I also have a bottle of approx 1/2 elmers and water through a sprayer and this ok ... that did the job at least of ensuring the ground cover more or less stays in place on the foam. 

Then for the trees, not a huge amount of luck with glues again -- finally just keeping with sticky spray and a gel based crazy glue. Generally the big issue is that you must do this spray glue outside, and inevitably it gets all over your hands and or at least fingers. But that's just an annoyance.

Now if you really wanted to sculpt the foam, I think you are right -- foam will be incredibly messy. I think this is one of those things that some people get through and make a lot of interesting things with foam -- such as surf boards! No I mean incredibly realistic sculptures and so -- and there appears to be a whole larger market out there for products to cover the foam for a more permanent and hard surface,etc ... 

But I won't be doing any of that although I'm game to try a rocky outcrop that might involved laziness at any point in time. 

If I produce no results I like, I believe I'll conclude that rocks should be done in something similar to plaster (scuplitmold) as you have done.

Or perhaps by combining them together which is another idea I had -- but again, I don't want to make something crack-able. So if you poke around on google, you'll find foam covering products suggested such as: joint compound or similar (cheap but cracks)... and some specialty products like foamcoat and aqua resin.

These appear to be marketed into the theater biz and I guess work wonders. But I don't think I need to go there.

(ex. https://us.rosco.com/en/product/foamcoat)


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

There are manufacturers out there that make ready made foam rock facings but that gets pricey in a hurry. Still, it's a much faster, cleaner, and realistic option.


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## J.Albert1949 (Feb 3, 2018)

Who is the manufacturer of the catenary system?
It looks very good.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

The catenary is by Viessmann. Thank you.


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## flyboy2610 (Jan 20, 2010)

Severn said:


> I never found a good glue to hold the foam together but have an unopened bottle of gorilla glue original to try next.


Glidden Gripper primer paint. Apply a thin coat between layers of foam, weight it down, and let it dry. Once it dries you will not be able to separate the foam layers without destroying them.
I gair-on-tee as Justin Wilson used to say.


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## Gramps (Feb 28, 2016)

Great photos, thanks for posting.:thumbsup:


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