# Layout question



## Mseav (Jul 30, 2015)

I have a 4x8 bench with an Atlas true track 18 degree radius oval approx 36''x84''. I want an inside track that runs a few inches on the inside of the bigger oval.How do I do this? I have left and right turnouts. Won't 18 degree radius be too wide?


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## Aminnich (Nov 17, 2014)

How many turnouts do u have?


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Put a piece of 9" straight (even 6" will work) into the short side of what will become the outer loop. Put two matching turnouts on the loops (one each for the inner and the outer) with their diverging legs pointing at each other. Depending on how long the straight pieces you inserted into your outer oval are, you will need a short straight segment to connect the turnouts.

if you put the turnouts described above at one end of a long side, and a mirror image at the other, you will have created a short run-around or passing track. Do it on the opposite long side and you have a nice long passing track that will work for just about anything.


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## cid (Jul 3, 2014)

Mseav, you likely don't want to put any smaller oval on the inside. You can use 22" radius true-track on the outside, maybe. I think there are some true-track layout suggestions on Atlas' website. You get more options using flex track, but I know you already have the true-track, so stick with it. The 44" diameter oval will just barely fit on your table, but I'm sure you can work it out. Two or three more inches of benchtop would help a lot.


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## Mseav (Jul 30, 2015)

Aminnich said:


> How many turnouts do u have?


2 left , 2 right


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## Mseav (Jul 30, 2015)

CTValleyRR said:


> Put a piece of 9" straight (even 6" will work) into the short side of what will become the outer loop. Put two matching turnouts on the loops (one each for the inner and the outer) with their diverging legs pointing at each other. Depending on how long the straight pieces you inserted into your outer oval are, you will need a short straight segment to connect the turnouts.
> 
> if you put the turnouts described above at one end of a long side, and a mirror image at the other, you will have created a short run-around or passing track. Do it on the opposite long side and you have a nice long passing track that will work for just about anything.


Great idea, thanks.


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## Mseav (Jul 30, 2015)

cid said:


> Mseav, you likely don't want to put any smaller oval on the inside. You can use 22" radius true-track on the outside, maybe. I think there are some true-track layout suggestions on Atlas' website. You get more options using flex track, but I know you already have the true-track, so stick with it. The 44" diameter oval will just barely fit on your table, but I'm sure you can work it out. Two or three more inches of benchtop would help a lot.


I like the idea of 22'' and a few more inches. Thanks


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

If you are open to the idea of a larger radius, essentially making your existing oval into the INNER loop, this will allow you to operate longer equipment, at least on the outer loop w/22" radius. Connecting a passing siding as I noted above will give you a lot more operational flexibility.

The only thing you need to watch out for is that sometimes mixing curve radii with sectional track leaves you with a gap that no existing piece will fill. There are ways around this (though they involve a little bit of creative engineering). Just don't try to fudge the track into a configuration it doesn't want to take..


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## Mseav (Jul 30, 2015)

CTValleyRR said:


> If you are open to the idea of a larger radius, essentially making your existing oval into the INNER loop, this will allow you to operate longer equipment, at least on the outer loop w/22" radius. Connecting a passing siding as I noted above will give you a lot more operational flexibility.
> 
> The only thing you need to watch out for is that sometimes mixing curve radii with sectional track leaves you with a gap that no existing piece will fill. There are ways around this (though they involve a little bit of creative engineering). Just don't try to fudge the track into a configuration it doesn't want to take..


What do you mean by mixing curve radii with sectional track?


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## tr1 (Mar 9, 2013)

*An Oh=a circle with 360 drgrees*

the curved sections of track and short straight sections, when put together with rail joiners
will scew the continuous radius that leads to a circle or semi circle. With the short straight sections gradually increases the overall radius. There is 360 degrees in a circle. Adding short straight sections will increase the constant of 360 degrees for a circle. Regard's,tr1


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Mseav said:


> What do you mean by mixing curve radii with sectional track?


Sorry about the unclear post. That sentence was a masterpiece of crappy, unclear writing.

What I meant was, WHEN USING SECTIONAL TRACK, mixing curve radii can sometimes lead to a gap that can't be filled with the standardized pieces. I have had more than one design (on paper) where that was true. More than likely, if you make one loop of one (consistent) radius and a second smaller one, you will be fine. Flex track allows you to overcome this obstacle (and nothing says you can't mix sectional and flex).


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## Mseav (Jul 30, 2015)

CTValleyRR said:


> Sorry about the unclear post. That sentence was a masterpiece of crappy, unclear writing.
> 
> What I meant was, WHEN USING SECTIONAL TRACK, mixing curve radii can sometimes lead to a gap that can't be filled with the standardized pieces. I have had more than one design (on paper) where that was true. More than likely, if you make one loop of one (consistent) radius and a second smaller one, you will be fine. Flex track allows you to overcome this obstacle (and nothing says you can't mix sectional and flex).


I see. If I end up needing an oddball piece, can I hacksaw a piece of track to fit?


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## Cycleops (Dec 6, 2014)

Mseav said:


> I see. If I end up needing an oddball piece, can I hacksaw a piece of track to fit?


In a word yes, but please don't use a hacksaw. Most use Xuron or similar cutters. Here's a video about using them: http://youtu.be/SCOP0IBOPbk you will also need a sharp craft knife to remove the chairs from the ties to allow the joiners to slide under the rail. This is if you are using flex track.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Cycleops said:


> In a word yes, but please don't use a hacksaw. Most use Xuron or similar cutters. Here's a video about using them: http://youtu.be/SCOP0IBOPbk you will also need a sharp craft knife to remove the chairs from the ties to allow the joiners to slide under the rail. This is if you are using flex track.


He's not. He's using Atlas True Track, which is a Code 83 roadbed track (although it is actually just standard Atlas Code 83 sectional track snapped on to a piece of plastic roadbed).

To answer the OP, Cycleops is on the right track (pun intended). You can certainly cut track to fit, but a hacksaw isn't really the right tool. I've never caught the rail nipper bug myself, and use a rotary tool with a cutoff wheel to cut track. Once the rails are cut, a hacksaw could be used to cut the ties and roadbed, but I'd use a razor saw and a miter box to ensure a really straight cut. You will also have to cut the little retaining pins off of the adjoining section of track.


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## Mseav (Jul 30, 2015)

Cycleops said:


> In a word yes, but please don't use a hacksaw. Most use Xuron or similar cutters. Here's a video about using them: http://youtu.be/SCOP0IBOPbk you will also need a sharp craft knife to remove the chairs from the ties to allow the joiners to slide under the rail. This is if you are using flex track.


 Thank you


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## Mseav (Jul 30, 2015)

CTValleyRR said:


> He's not. He's using Atlas True Track, which is a Code 83 roadbed track (although it is actually just standard Atlas Code 83 sectional track snapped on to a piece of plastic roadbed).
> 
> To answer the OP, Cycleops is on the right track (pun intended). You can certainly cut track to fit, but a hacksaw isn't really the right tool. I've never caught the rail nipper bug myself, and use a rotary tool with a cutoff wheel to cut track. Once the rails are cut, a hacksaw could be used to cut the ties and roadbed, but I'd use a razor saw and a miter box to ensure a really straight cut. You will also have to cut the little retaining pins off of the adjoining section of track.


Thank you


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