# #290 Gear Interference



## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

I serviced my 290 by disassembling and cleaning everything inside and out. I reassembled it and it runs great, with one exception. The link that drives the choo-choo piston seems to rub against the drive gear where it is attached by the shoulder screw as it turns. I can see marks on the link. I reassembled it accoridng to the exploded view in the online Service Manual....so I thought. It appears the link should be mounted on the LH side of the gear, which I did. There is no spacer between the gear face and the link, although it seems one should be there to prevent this interference. Anyone experience this before and if so, what can be done to resolve it?


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## gunrunnerjohn (Nov 10, 2010)

I've had issues where I had to slightly "bend" the links at various places to avoid interference. I recently got a locomotive that it was stated that it wouldn't run forward, only reverse. Turned out that one of the rods was slightly bent and was catching. 30 seconds later, I had a bargain!


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

The loco made a plethora of noise when I first got it and applied power to see if it ran. So I realized it needed a good cleaning and service, but it ran. This is the one I also re-built the reverse unit and had slight trouble figuring it out. See another thread on that if you wish. But that issue was resolved quite easily. The only noise I hear now is this slight 'grinding' sound at certain points when it runs. The sound slows as the engine throttle is reduced and vice versa when throttle is increased. By the tell-tale markings on the link, my guess it is rubbing the teeth of the gear during its travel. I suppose I could fashion a thin spacer or perhaps insert a thin insulating washer just enough to space it outward from the gear face. The last thing I want to try is to bend something that appears straight and true.


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

For the spacer, you might try cutting one out of an old plastic-coated playing card. Cheap, thin and it won't damage anything.


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## Stillakid (Jan 12, 2010)

Is the long flat end of the drive rod connected to the piston and the short flat end to the gear? Also, the drive rod stud is made to have some play. To much play will cause what you're describing. Have you tried to tighten the stud down?


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## tjcruiser (Jan 10, 2010)

Reckers said:


> For the spacer, you might try cutting one out of an old plastic-coated playing card. Cheap, thin and it won't damage anything.


And then, when you play poker with Reck, he'll always know how to make sure that Ace Of Spades gets easily slipped under his sleeve!

 

TJ

(Clever advice, Reck ... cheap, very thin shim stock!)


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Thanks Reck -- Good suggestion.

Stillakid -- Yes, that is the way it is connnected, and I have the shoulder screw snugged tight.

The reason I added this thread was to confirm that I assembled it correctly -- the link on the LH side of the gear face. Since no one mentioned anything about that, I assume that I have it assembled correctly and no one mentioned a spacer/shim being included from the factory so I again have to assume there is none required....at least until now.
I'll take another look at this very closely to be sure the link is not bent or deformed in any way, to be sure the shoulder screw is tight and, if necessary, add the Ace of Spades under the connection.


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## flyernut (Oct 31, 2010)

A spacer should not be required, as Gilbert did not put one there to begin with. Use a piece of beer can for a shim, if needed, as it should last longer. Besides, it will give you an excuse to enjoy a "pop" as you work it!!


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

flyernut said:


> A spacer should not be required, as Gilbert did not put one there to begin with. Use a piece of beer can for a shim, if needed, as it should last longer. Besides, it will give you an excuse to enjoy a "pop" as you work it!!


It's hard to argue with that logic.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Nuttin But Flyer (Dec 19, 2011)

Too many "pops" while I'm working and I might need a shim.


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