# Finally built a layout



## skitz (Dec 8, 2009)

I have finally built my first layout. Nothing special but a basic oval on 4x8 plywood with one passing siding using Atlas Code 100 tacked down and no roadbed. I have been tinkering the last week or so and have a few questions.

I would like to have more than 5 or 6 cars on a train but when I do there is excessive wheelspin from my locomotive. I am running a regular DC setup and have been told running more than one locomotive on the track can short the transformer or the locomotive out, is this true? I have also been told not to run 2 locomotives as one will outpace the other and there will be spinning wheels. Is this true? If so is there a way to buy a matched pair to run double headed?

I seem to have issues when I run a train for the first time everyday in the form of stalling. After about the 10th or so time around the track everything is fine. Could this be because I am using brass track?

Last but not least most of my collection was passed on to me by my father and grandfather, some stuff was new when I was little. I have a few locomotives that are either shorted or are missing the trucks. They are probably not worth anything at all but they have huge sentimental values. I can't find anybody local to repair them so what would it take to turn them into idlers or dummies?

Thanks!


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## Reckers (Oct 11, 2009)

Skitz,

First of all, welcome to the forum! I don't run HO, so I'll defer the HO specific questions to them and take a shot at the less specific ones. While you are waiting to hear from them, I'd like to suggest you do two things: first, clean the drive wheels on your engine and clean the surfaces of your rails. Oil and dirt on either can cause slippage and bad electrical connections. Never use steel wool near your trains or track; use a mild detergent on q-tips or similar to remove oil on wheels, use very fine sandpaper for built-up gunk on rails or wheels. That should help on the slippage and stalling.
Second, it sounds like your engine and cars might benefit from lubrication. Start with light oil on any bearing surface for the wheels and axles, keeping it away from the parts of the wheels that touch the track. This will reduce the resistance the engine is facing in dragging your cars. You probably need to lube the engine too, but I'll leave that to others to coach you on. Six cars does not sound like much of a load. Your engine will pull better after it's warmed up, so once you've done some lubrication, run it a few laps around the track to warm it before adding the cars.
Finally, you can run multiple engines and it won't blow up. That said, if you mean multiple trains, the answer is still yes, but I'll leave it to the HO guys to go into depth on that.

Again, welcome!


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## skitz (Dec 8, 2009)

Thanks for the reply. The engine that I have been running is a brand new Life Life GP38 hi nose in ATSF colors. I probably should have mentioned that after I assembled the layout I took a sanding block to it. I will definately lube up my cars and other locomotives.


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## tankist (Jun 11, 2009)

sanding block, i hope it was very gentle one. if you score your track with coarser stuff you will introduce tiny scratches in which oxidation will build up fast. i wouldn't use anything coarser then #500 water paper

Warning! when lubing your cars don't get carried away. better to not have lube at all then even bit to much. dust and grime will settle and thing will be even worse.

even if the surface is clean, connection between rails can be of an issie, check that.
life-like is a cheap engine without all wheel drive and all wheel pickup AFAIK. that will only compound the issue with slippage and contact. since you have it new dirty wheels, dirty pickup springs and broken contacts are not an issue probably.

for multi engine lash-ups it is advised to only use engines with similar speeds, otherwise the faster is pushing or pulling the slower one. doesn't have to be exact, but at least somewhat close


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Find out what engine is faster and put it in the lead.
Try to find engines that run about the same speed too.
Do you have enough power all the way around the layout?
Add more electrical connections if not.


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## alcoman (Nov 4, 2009)

An old timers trick to matching engine speeds: 

1. Put the two you want to test on the track a few feet apart.

2. Crank up the throttle.

3. Watch. Do they maintain the same (or nearly the same) spacing?

Yes. They should work together.

No. Try a different pair of engines.


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## skitz (Dec 8, 2009)

Power wise I am using either a Bachman or Tyco power pack rated for 7va @13VDC. I ran two engines today and my multimeter showed a voltage drop of 13vdc to 8vdc at full throttle. If I were to invest in one of the $60 ones at the hobby shop would that enable me to run multiple engines without a voltage loss? Also, does anybody make a decent DC all wheel drive and all wheel pickup locomotive for under $100? Maybe in an F7ish A/B pair?

Thanks again for all of the help!


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## MacDaddy55 (Aug 19, 2008)

*Old Locomotives Never Die!*

Hi Skitz,
You sound like you have quite a collection from your Dad and Grandad(with sentimental value). You mentioned not being close to a Hobby shop but we can get arround that. If you are a novice(like we all were) when it comes to repairing your own Engines get some books from Kahlmbach Books/or ebay and read up on the subject(its lots of fun and informative)Take your Engines and clean them up(clean,lube grease etc.) If you are missing Tenders for your (I'm assuming Steam Locos) get one from Ebay(or several). If you can get them to move/run you have entered a whole new world....if not you have your Idlers/dummies for your Yard. I look at an old engine and say, "No scrap yard for you old friend"! As for good DC under $100.00 Athearn and Atlas make great diesel engines. You could probably pick up a decent one at your local Hobby Shop as alot of them are going with DCC models. Good luck and let us know how everthing comes out.:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Lester Perry (Nov 7, 2008)

Stay away from sand paper or a sanding block. Don't use detergent to clean anything except a removed shell/body. Use a bright boy (that is a cleaner that looks like an eraser that you used in school) on the track. and contact cleaner on the wheels. I use a CRC contact cleaner purchased at automotive stores. The cause of poor running at first then better later is probably a 2 fold lubrication
problem. 1 gummed up old lubrication 2 lack of good lube. Solution, use the contact cleaner to clean all bushings bearings and gears. This will take some time and patience. You will have to take gear boxes and trucks apart for this. Be carefull to not loose any parts and reassemble correctly. using a Labelle oil or teflon grease, re lube everything as you reassemble it. As tank list said *very* little oil. This should resolve many of your troubles. Before you do all of that check if both trucks pick up and are powered. If not it probably is not worth the time and effort involved in this process.


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## mburns5us (Dec 21, 2009)

this answers some of my questions,i bought alot of track,tech11 loco-motion 2500 and life like loco with a passenger car and cabose for 20.00 at a pawn shop. I'll be upgrading loco and cars soon life-like is very cheap made just my 2 cents.


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