# Thoughts on a small test track?



## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Until I can start building my layout, I wanted to throw together a small test track on a 48" square board. 18" radius will be my smallest turn, and I want this track to be sort of a stress-test for equipment. With that said, instead of just doing a basic circle, I wanted to include a combination of straights and some simple easements. What I ended up with was a combination of 18" and straights, with easements made up of 21" and 24" curves. It would be better if I could fit an S-curve into this, but with this small of space that's not really possible.

The thinking here is that I'll get a good combination of nice smooth turns and 'slamming' between a hard curve and a straight. The turnouts will provide testing of the electronics across frogs and let me experiment with automated switching ideas. And if I want to test traction, I can always tip the entire board.










So... any thoughts on what else I might do to this circle, or does this pretty much cover what I can fit in the space?


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## Mark VerMurlen (Aug 15, 2015)

I have a small piece of test track, but its just a 36" piece of flex track that's glued down to a 1x4 board. Its enough that I can make sure that my locomotive runs after doing any reprogramming of it. That's about all I need.

Sounds like you want to do much more than that. I think your level of success will depend on how close your small circle mimics (or doesn't) your actual track. For example, do you plan to have 18" radius curves on your real track? If not, then does it matter if your equipment will run on it or not? For myself, I think the real track is the best test because that's what you'll actually run on. If something works perfectly fine on your test track but not on the real track (or vice versa), does it gain you anything?

Mark


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

My planned layout will have curves down to 18.5". Also I need a full running loop because a lot of my testing will be with the electronics (I'm building an arduino-style wifi controller). And although it isn't shown, the test track will be dual gauge HO/HOn3. I just ordered a box of flex track last night to set this up, and it's a good place to get my hands dirty in hand-laying turnouts.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

I keep a couple of pieces of flextrack handy, and just lay out about an 8' long section to test each loco or car. I also have a snap switch and an old brass #4 turnout (an Atlas, I think), just to see how things handle them. I tack this down on my workbench with a few nails, apply power with alligator clips, and see what happens. It's much easier to store a few pieces of flex than a pre-made board.

Just a thought.


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## Genetk44 (Feb 26, 2016)

Maybe move the sidings to the inside of the circle. Then you can scenic it and have a small layout/testtrack combined into one.....until you build your big layout.


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## santafealltheway (Nov 27, 2012)

Genetk44 said:


> Maybe move the sidings to the inside of the circle. Then you can scenic it and have a small layout/testtrack combined into one.....until you build your big layout.


I like this idea.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

The longest straight track is only 6"... it doesn't really provide much room to add a turnout facing inwards.


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## Genetk44 (Feb 26, 2016)

Shdwdrgn said:


> The longest straight track is only 6"... it doesn't really provide much room to add a turnout facing inwards.


Can you move one of the outside switches to face inwards??


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## santafealltheway (Nov 27, 2012)

Have you already cut the base board? You could just make it a few inches longer if you cut it from a 4x8


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Well since I had already decided to make my own turnouts, I guess I can fit them wherever they are needed... Thus, here's a new rendering, complete with a minor S-curve on the left side and full dual-gauge through key locations. Having one spur without the HOn3 leg lets me try something else -- letting a narrow-gauge train 'float' through a turnout where it doesn't matter which way the HO track is turned (in this case even if the turnout is facing the spur, a narrow-gauge train should still go straight through).










And yes, the board(s) are already cut. I have a small stack of pre-cut boards, and it's a decent size for getting some basic running track.

With three spurs, I should be able to test some interesting switching operations. And when I get into the electronics portion, the double-leg at the bottom gives me the chance to test right-of-way operations. Imagine two locos, facing the same direction. A is sitting on one spur, B is going around the loop, then stops in the opposite spur. Now A can go around the loop, and once A clears the turnouts, B should be able to back up onto the other spur, clearing the way for A to stop in that spur, and B to begin another loop. This requires the locos to be aware of track signals and only move when the track is clear, having a known route to take, and knowing when the other loco has completed its route.

Yeah I like how this is shaping up... Not only can I mechanically test the locos in harsh conditions, but I can develop quite a lot of the circuits and programming for the computers on here. Thanks everyone!


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

You'll like making turnouts. I use CV ties and make everything using handmade jigs for the frogs. I have changed to using points from the Proto87 store, they just look and work a lot better that filing the flange.


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## wvgca (Jan 21, 2013)

I have a circle of old brass Atlas 18" radius sectional track nailed to a piece of 3/8 plywood, and then just set on top of a card table for running loco's, just straight DC power now ...after conversion to DCC they go on a two foot straight track to get CV's written, etc on a DCC++ Arduino setup with JMRI Decoder Pro ...
New loco's with DCC factory installed go straight on to the layout ..
Works good enough for me ...


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## mjrfd99 (Jan 5, 2016)

Old controller, short wire, alligator clips and some old brass sectional track is my portable test track. All from the junk box


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Woot! The flex track arrived in the mail today. Got a party tonight, so no time to play, but maybe tomorrow I can get started laying down some rail. Anyone have suggestions on transferring printed (1:1) blueprints to the plywood? Easiest thing I can think of is carbon paper -- does anyone even still make that?

I also found a good price on some bare code-70 rail on ebay that I snatched up, hopefully over the Winter I'll be able to start building some turnouts. I fitted this test track with a particular turnout that I used a lot in my full layout plans, so it'll be worth figuring out how to make jigs to turn out a lot of these.


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## Mark VerMurlen (Aug 15, 2015)

Shdwdrgn said:


> Anyone have suggestions on transferring printed (1:1) blueprints to the plywood? Easiest thing I can think of is carbon paper -- does anyone even still make that?


I used carbon paper to transfer my layout from paper to plywood. Staples still has carbon paper at their stores. I used a dull pizza cutter to roll over the track center lines and transfer them to the plywood.

Mark


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Oh I like that idea of the pizza cutter, thanks!

I thought I was going to just transfer my centerline, but then I noticed the ME flex track I got does not have centerline nail holes. Guess I'll have to transfer the roadbed lines instead, as that seems to match up to the width of the ties. Or maybe I can set up my drill press to punch center holes every inch? I dunno, I'm going to have to think about this a bit. That S-curve area is going to require some tight bends, so if I tried gluing down the track I would still need to put in some nails to hold it in place until the glue dries.


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## Mr.Buchholz (Dec 30, 2011)

A test track is a very good idea. I have a small table near my layout board, and sometimes set up a temporary loop or straight line to test locos or repaired rolling stock so as to not get in the way of what's happening on the layout.

I do not however, use any turnouts on the test track.

-J.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Shdwdrgn said:


> Oh I like that idea of the pizza cutter, thanks!
> 
> I thought I was going to just transfer my centerline, but then I noticed the ME flex track I got does not have centerline nail holes. Guess I'll have to transfer the roadbed lines instead, as that seems to match up to the width of the ties. Or maybe I can set up my drill press to punch center holes every inch? I dunno, I'm going to have to think about this a bit. That S-curve area is going to require some tight bends, so if I tried gluing down the track I would still need to put in some nails to hold it in place until the glue dries.


You don't need a nail every inch, especially on tangent track. Look at the underside of the track. I seem to recall that there were little dimples there to facilitate drilling (i use caulk to fasten mine down, so it's never been an issue for me).

You only need to draw the centerline. It's easy enough to see the line between the ties.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

You're right, I see the dimples on the underside, but they're spread pretty far apart. I know for the most part I don't need nails very frequently, however in the case of the section with the intentional S-curve I have a pretty specific profile I want to follow, and even though the ME flex track is pretty stiff it still doesn't want to stay put through that section. Ah well, I didn't get a chance to pick up any carbon paper today, and tomorrow night will be busy, so maybe later in the week I can find some.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

With the ME track, below a certain radius, you may have to snip some of the little plastic connectors between the ties to get it to hold the shape.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Been a busy week... got the flex track and the bare rail in the mail. Picked up the carbon paper, but then ended up coming home sick today. I have the original loop of Atlas track cleared off the board now, so over the weekend I can start marking out where the track should lay and maybe get some of it tacked down. And I can finally break the track cutters out of their packaging that I bought last year... Progress!


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Whew, that took a lot longer than expected, but I finally got everything together and transferred the pattern to the board tonight. I had to print a few overlapping pages where I needed details that were in between sheets, but it all laid out pretty smoothly. I started off by drawing grid lines every 6 inches, which I could then match up to the grid on the pages. That worked out well because I didn't have to rely on keeping all the pages taped to each other, I just lined up each individual page as I went.

So everything is drawn out now, including the spurs that will come later. Next step is seeing if I actually have any nails of the right size, or if I need to go get some. Considering it's been over three decades since I laid down any track, I'm getting excited to see this completed. 

Regarding the turnouts, I drew the lines marking the ends of each turnout, and plan to cut the flex track right to the edges of where they will be. Then I can drop in each turnout as I build them without having to tear up much of anything around them.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

I usually put the turnouts down first and then place the track (CV ties in my case) and built the turnouts with extra rail on the ends to prevent the rail joiners from being across from one another (except if their insulated). But with good paper patterns there is nothing wrong with how your doing it. I made sure that I could remove all my turnouts since this was my first attempt at turnout construction, and all the turnouts have power and frog power wires. The switch machines are Switchmasters using a buried crank so the turnout can just be lifted off once the wires are disconnected and the joiners are slid back. I was going to show a picture of the crank and the pit its in, but they are covered with thin styrene sheet and not visible.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Got the first piece of track laid tonight. I decided to start off with that S-curve section, which turned out to be pretty tricky. I figured out a trick to help though -- I tap small brads into the wood so only the head is sticking up, and position them to press against the outside of the rail (actually the small connecting plastic between the ties). Putting one in every 3 inches let me lay down some nice smooth curves, and I could press against opposite sides of the rail to create the S-curve.










The brads are in a good spot where they keep the track in position, but would be covered up easily if I were doing ballast on this track. Since this track isn't getting glued down, I also went ahead and tapped in brads in the center of the track about every 6 inches to keep the track from falling off when I move the board around. Note the far end of the finished track is still loose so I can solder it to the next piece of flex track.

So in going around from the edges of where the turnouts would be, it looks like I'm going to be about a foot short to make the full circle. I'll have to figure out where I want to cut in the short piece.

GRRRR... it just occurred to me, I don't have any code 70 rail joiners. How did I miss that? Guess I better go put in an order before heading off to bed.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

After thinking about things for the past week, I decided last night to rip up that first piece so I could re-do it properly. The real problem is the end of the track, as I'll be leaving it floating in the place where the turnouts will eventually go. I wasn't happy about how the ends were left on the first track, so I decided to start again. Once I was happy with the ends, I soldered another piece of track to the end, using rail joiners that I have cut in half (I figure they don't need to be that large, just enough to keep the rails aligned while soldering). After work tonight, I dropped in the nails to guide the second rail in place and added a third piece of track.

Wife goes to bed earlier than me, so I'll get in the nails for the third track tomorrow. This brings me back around to the other end of the section where the turnouts will go, so after I get the guide nails in place I can cut off the ends and be ready to fit in a temporary track in the gap for the turnouts.

It's coming out nice and smooth so far. I can take a metal truck, give it a little shove, and have it roll all the way around the existing track. I'm leaving a gap of three ties under each section I solder together, which lets me offset each joint a little bit. The biggest trick will be getting a clean transition between the rails around the turnout gap, since I won't even be using rail joiners there.

After working with the rail the last couple evenings, I think I'm really going to enjoy building the turnouts.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

Don't be in a hurry to finish a turnout, check everything with the NMRA gauge as you go and if it looks wrong, fix it or better still make a new part. Make sure the straight rails stay straight, its amazing how easy it is to put a slight curve in the straight part of the turnout, especially if you are grinding off the flange where the throw-bar rail nestles. Making a working turnout gives you a great feeling of accomplishing something you never though you could do


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Oh I have no doubts I can do it, just as I have no doubts the first one will look terrible... but I absolutely love building intricate things. Chances are it will be after the holidays before I get a chance to start, and I don't yet have a PCB to cut the ties from, although I do have a pack of bare rail now. At the moment I'm just anxious to get the main loop finished up so I can put together new computers for the two locos and start playing with things like collision avoidance. Hmm I also need to get busy on the HOn3 loco kit so I have something to test on that third rail... Yep, plenty of things to work on before I ever get around to building a turnout.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

I use 
http://cloverhouse.com/Store/index.php?cPath=35_36
PC ties. I thought about cutting my own but then I could not locate my Unimat which has a table saw attachment that would have worked on PC ties. Cloverhouse also sells rejects that looked good to me.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Wow, thanks for the link, that's a really good price on them! I don't suppose anyone happens to know which ones match the size of ties on ME code-70 HO/HOn3 flex track? It's probably not too critical as the difference between old and moderns tie sizes is only 0.011", but I might as well try to match it up before buying.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

For code 83 flex track (or CV ties) I use Clover House #1266 which are 0.103" wide by 0.062" deep. I use 2 layers of painters tape on them to get the exact height while building the turnouts as it keeps the top of the tie slightly above the plastic ties and makes soldering easier. When I glue the rail down to the CV tie I remove the tape when then keeps the PC ties from becoming the high high point and hindering the glue joint to the plastic ties. If you have a micrometer you could measure your tie height. Mine measures to just a little under .07" hence the use of the 2 layers of painters tape trick. I put the 2 layers of painters tape on before I cut the ties to length.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

All right folks, time for picture-rama! Got off work early today, so I had a couple hours to work on the track and get it finished up.

First, the staggered half rail joiners I mentioned last night.









Here's now I am leaving the ends of the rails where they will eventually join the set of turnouts.









This is the completed circle of track, minus the gap where the three turnouts will eventually go.









And this is a close-up of the brad heads I am using to set the edges of the flex track. I have a 1/16" thick steel plate with small holes in it, so I put the plate over the nails and hammer them flush, and they end up at exactly the thickness of the railroad ties. These are added about every 3 inches, then I just push the track up against them to set my curves, and pound in a center nail every 6 inches to keep the track in place.









And finally, a finished circle, with cat to scale! 









So as I mentioned, the short piece of track in the turnout gap does not have any rail joiners keeping it aligned with the rest of the track, I was just very careful about my placement of nails. Of course this means that section needs its own feeder wires, and I have two more wire pairs coming from opposite sides of the circle. Everything is so new now, though, that there's no power drop anyway around the track.

For testing, I have the Bachmann 0-6-0 and tender, plus a flat car and coal car that have both been updated with full metal sprung Kadee trucks. The flat car was also refitted with the largest piece of steel I could fit under the bed, so it has some decent weight to it now (although still a few tenths of an ounce under NMRA recommendation). I ran this forward at full speed for a few minutes, then backwards at full speed for a couple more minutes. Not a single derailment yet, so not only are my various gaps in good alignment, but the hefty S-curve I added is also not causing any issue (although it does look funny when the cars go through it).

Currently running straight DC now, but I'm ready to re-fit my older 0-4-0 with another computer and start working on various sensor circuits.

[Update] I managed to dig up more cars. I now have the flatcar plus 5 coal cars, running a combination of talgo and knuckle couplers, metal and plastic wheels. Forwards and backwards at full speed, and still no derailments. I never could have hoped for such a success, and fully expected a lot of tweaking would be required to get a train to run smoothly. Just...wow.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Wow, already learning that I've gone too far with my planned layout. I have grades up to 3.75, but my little 0-6-0 can't even pull 5 empty cars up a grade of about 2.25. I'm actually planning on using 2-8-0's for the primary hauling, but I don't know how much the extra pair of wheels will affect the hauling capability. Maybe it will be enough, but I was hoping the empty trains could be at least 10-15 cars long.

I tagged on the 0-4-0 ahead of the 0-6-0, and then it easily climbed the hill. So I added another board under it, bringing me up very close to the 3.75 grade (probably a little over), and was able to haul the full train. This is interesting because the 0-4-0 is geared to run almost half again as fast as the 0-6-0, so the 0-4-0 is obviously spinning its wheels as it goes around. Yet it provides enough extra traction that I was able to crawl at 1/4 speed up the grade without any issue.

I do have a 2-8-0 somewhere in a box. I haven't seen it in 33 years, but if I can find it then I'll be able to test the traction and compare it to what I already have.

One thing I had considered for my planned layout was the possibility of running locos in tandem when hauling a full load over the mountain... now it looks like this may actually be a requirement. I'm cool with that though, it will look more impressive on my little layout.


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## Mark VerMurlen (Aug 15, 2015)

Shdwdrgn said:


> Wow, already learning that I've gone too far with my planned layout. I have grades up to 3.75, but my little 0-6-0 can't even pull 5 empty cars up a grade of about 2.25.


Good to know now than after you've built you're dream layout and realized it won't perform like you expect.

Mark


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

True enough... although I'll be testing the big grades with full loads and some temporary track and make adjustments to the framework before I even put down the permanent track. I knew slippage would be an issue, it's just surprising because this doesn't *look* like that much of a grade. Of course my test locos have all-metals without any traction bands, so I'm sure that doesn't help.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Even 2.25% would be considered exceptionally steep by a real railroad.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Yeah but we don't have real railroads, so some liberty has to be taken with the actual space available. I'm also modeling the D&RGW during the transition from narrow to standard gauge, and from what I've read they weren't exactly particular about grades back then.


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

That's not my point. My point is that a 1% grade is barely noticeable, yet it's steep for a train. Narrow gauge, short wheelbase steamers could handle grades better, and geared locos even better. But no railroad, anywhere ignores grades. They limit tonnage and jncrease fuel use -- both key to a railroads profitability.

Use whatever grades you like on your model. But they will affect the pulling power of your equipment, just as they do in real life.


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## Shdwdrgn (Dec 23, 2014)

Oh right, I'm not debating that grades have a major effect on the pulling power! What I meant about ignoring grades was that the railroads wouldn't limit themselves to a particular maximum grade. In one case, I read that a narrow gauge railroad had a section through the mountains with over a 6% grade in some spots -- not something I would want to try and replicate!


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