# How to control train speed



## Newtown Joe (Jan 30, 2013)

At one point on my track I have two crossing signals and two crossing gates. When the train approaches this spot it slows down. Then after passing it speeds up. The problem is in order to prevent the train from stopping at these controls it needs to be going very fast (too fast). What methods can be used to obtain a more even speed all around the track? 
Thanks,
Newtown Joe


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## rkenney (Aug 10, 2013)

We need more information. A picture would be nice, then we would know what gauge at least. What kind of transformer? DCC, DC, AC ?


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## D&J Railroad (Oct 4, 2013)

What kind of crossing system is it?


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Its o Guage, Newtown, a few things you can do. Try adding a lockon by the track. This might help. You can also wire the accessories to be fed on a separate line, bot powered by the track. What kind of transformer do you have again? You can also replace the lights in the crossing signals and on your layout with leds, less power draw. I'm thinking that the accessories are run off track power and when activated all at once are drawing too much power from the track. If the transformer has a accessorie hook up you can power the gates, etc right from the transformer or if not you could pick up a cheap Postwar one. They are Postwar accessories right?


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## Newtown Joe (Jan 30, 2013)

*Transformer*

The train is run by a 110 WATT Lionel Trainmaster transformer. The crossing gates and lights work off an insulated track. The track is 027 gauge. 
So, I would run wire from the accessories directly to the other posts on the transformer?


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

What gate and lights are they? 252 gate, 262?
If you add a lockon to the insulated sections, you are defeating the insulation section?

New track? 
Could one be bad?

Use a pressure activated connector instead?


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## Newtown Joe (Jan 30, 2013)

*Connector*

I use a 154c. Just seems like too much happening in one place, but of course I'm simulating a real crossing. I have to control the speed manually to get it right or the train goes too fast after it leaves the crossing and risks flying off the track. I need a way to slow it then let it go again. If I blow the whistle it slows the train to a good speed, but of course I don't want to have to do this every time around. Maybe I just need to add another item to slow the train at the halfway mark. Any ideas?


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

If your using that you don't need the track insulated?
Do you have insulating pins in that track?

That is a pressure activated connector, if you have insulating pins in try replacing them with metal pins and try it.


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## Newtown Joe (Jan 30, 2013)

*154c*

yes, is that part of the problem?


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Try taking them out, unless I am mistaken you don't need the track insulated.
When the train runs over the 154c it activates the accessories.


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## Newtown Joe (Jan 30, 2013)

OK, I'll give that a try and let you know. {later today}
Thanks


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## Newtown Joe (Jan 30, 2013)

*75% improvement*

OK, I moved the 154c to an uninsulated track for the blinking lights. Now the train still slows but not to the point of stopping and it doesn't need to go as fast when approaching the crossing. The fact that it slows at the crossing I think is ok as that seems normal even for a real train. The gates are still activating off lockons on the insulated track. 

Question: Can I use another 154c for the gates on an uninsulated track? Will that give me further improvement? It's ok the way it is but I'd like to get even more steady speed.


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## Big Ed (Jun 16, 2009)

Joe, what kind of shape is the 154c in?

The top surface of the contact plates should be real clean. And check that the insulating material on the bottom surface of the contact plate is unbroken. If the insulating material is rubbed through even in a little spot it will affect the operation.

Also make sure the track itself is clean and the pins and the wheels of the train are, the wheels complete the circuit.

You can try another for the gates, see what happens.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Newtown, does your transformer have accessorie hook ups? Just power it from there and use the insulated track to complete the ground part of the circuit. You would run the power from the accessorie terminal on the transformer. Then run the ground to the lock on. Since its from the same transformer the sane ground is used.


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## Newtown Joe (Jan 30, 2013)

*question*

That sounds ok since at this point it should only involve one wire. Right? See it's about six feet to the transformer and I didn't want to do this with all the connections but you said one goes to the lock on and the rest are on the 154c so I now got it down to one. If I got this right then it sounds like the answer. Plus, I just sold a 154c a few weeks ago and they cost about $15.00. With your final yes, I'll give it a try.


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

Ok hold on a second. I'm trying to remember what we did last time! Let me get this right, you have one insulated track, and a 154 c. The insulated track controls the gates. The 154 c controls the crossings. For the gates, disconnect the power wire on the lock on and run it to an accessory terminal on the back of the transformer. They all put out different voltage, so chose a middle voltage and move up in power as nessasery. The power is the center rail connector. That should free up some power. If this is how it's connected. This should also work with the 154c, I still can't find one( there here somewhere!). Disconnect the power( center rail) from the 154c and directly hook it to the transformer. Then the 154c will only trigger the ground with in turn will activate the crossing. The gates, crossings should be directly hooked up to the transformer, the insulated track and the 154c will have the ground wires going to the accessory.


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## Newtown Joe (Jan 30, 2013)

*Finally!*

Ok, I made the direct connection to the transformer and here are the results. Although the train still slows somewhat at the crossing (I'm ok with that), It doesn't need to be going at warp speed to make it through. Another benefit is that the gates close down all the way and real fast, as expected. The other setup caused them to sometimes only close half way and bounce. Now they go down, stay down and come up after the train passes. I'm happy with how it's working now so once again thanks for all the tips. I never realized that you need to learn electricity, soldering, motor function, e-unit operation and general common sense to operate model trains of any complexity. It's challenging, but I like it.
Regards,
Newtown Joe


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

:eekI did mine by trial and error! Some of this stuff for being as old as it is, was, ( and still is) pretty cool. I'mgue ssing this was state of the art in 1940. And I'm still amazed of the complex simplicity of it all.


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## Newtown Joe (Jan 30, 2013)

*Tried something new*

Most experienced guys probably know about this, but although I read about it I never actually tried it. I put an additional lockon at the far end of the track run and ran it to the transformer(about eight feet). Now, I get a nice even power to the train and can run it at a controlled speed without worrying about it speeding up too fast. I'm enjoying my trains much more without needing to alter the transformer speed at different points along the run and no threat of derailment.
Worked better than anything else I tried.
Newtown Joe


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## Kwikster (Feb 22, 2012)

As a general rule, a lockon should be placed about every 8-10 feet of track. Besides having extra power drops can never hurt. Some people, I'm considering the idea, solder the wires directly to the track eliminating the lockon. It's more conductive for sure, and you can more easily hide the wiring. 

Carl


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## sjm9911 (Dec 20, 2012)

I thought I mentioned adding a lockon? Doesn't matter, all the upgrades will help. And the experience is good too. Main thing is have fun! Run those trains!


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