# Reversing Loop inside a returning curve?



## ClarkW (Mar 14, 2017)

I'll attach a PDF file of my drawing. I am not sure any of the reversing loop wiring accessories can accommodate what i am attempting. Any comments are appreciated.


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## MichaelE (Mar 7, 2018)

Certainly. It doesn't appear to be anything out of the ordinary as far as reversing sections go.


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## Mark VerMurlen (Aug 15, 2015)

No problems supporting your reverse loop. Insulate both rails of your S shaped crossover track at both ends. If you’re running DCC, the auto reverser hooks up to your main track power bus and then to the S shaped crossover track. Be aware that the maximum length train that you can run through the reversing section must fit within the length of the insulated section of track.

Mark


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Mark's exactly right. That is a very simple reversing loop, and easily managed in DCC. A little trickier in DC, but still no too hard.


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## Ko Improbable (Mar 15, 2017)

I thought that the polarity reversing system only needed insulated track as long as the largest number of locomotives you'd be using at a time. So, like, if I had three four inch locomotives, I would only need 12" of insulated track.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

That 12"number would be fine if none of the cars your hauling have metal wheels. The metal wheels will short across the insulated part and trigger the reverse so you stand a good chance of confusing the reverse electronics as cars and locomotives are entering and leaving the isolated section. That's why its wise to make the section close to as long as your longest train. Too long and you end up with the problem of 2 trains entering the reverse section. You could make the gap a little longer and fill in with plastic, but then you have a dead spot that may cause problems with loco's that don't have multiple pickups. Making the gaps a little longer to prevent metal freight wheels from triggering the reverse may make the operation more foolproof.


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## Ko Improbable (Mar 15, 2017)

Lemonhawk said:


> That 12"number would be fine if none of the cars your hauling have metal wheels. The metal wheels will short across the insulated part and trigger the reverse so you stand a good chance of confusing the reverse electronics as cars and locomotives are entering and leaving the isolated section. That's why its wise to make the section close to as long as your longest train. Too long and you end up with the problem of 2 trains entering the reverse section. You could make the gap a little longer and fill in with plastic, but then you have a dead spot that may cause problems with loco's that don't have multiple pickups. Making the gaps a little longer to prevent metal freight wheels from triggering the reverse may make the operation more foolproof.


Heh. And yet everyone insists that metal wheels are the way to go! XD

That does make sense, though.


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## DonR (Oct 18, 2012)

The usual reverse loop isolated section concern is lighted passenger cars or a caboose,
but it is true that metal wheels can cause problems.

Again, an easy fix for the metal wheel problem is
a tiny dab of clear fingernail polish on each side
of the insulated joiners. That prevents metal wheel accidental
shorts that affects the reverse loop controller.

Don


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Ko Improbable said:


> Heh. And yet everyone insists that metal wheels are the way to go! XD
> 
> That does make sense, though.


Metal wheels are the way to go. Their advantages far outweigh this particular drawback.

Besides, many metal wheelsets are mounted on plastic or insulated axles, for exactly this reason.


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## Lemonhawk (Sep 24, 2013)

It the metal wheel that shorts across the insulated gap that can trigger the reverse electronics, and yes metal wheels are the way to go and as DonR and I pointed out there are easy fixes that prevent the false trigger. I just make all my insulated gaps about 1/8" and then glue a bit of plastic in the gap, a piece of those plastic things that hold the bread wrapper closed work great and their free!


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## CTValleyRR (Jul 26, 2014)

Lemonhawk said:


> It the metal wheel that shorts across the insulated gap that can trigger the reverse electronics, and yes metal wheels are the way to go and as DonR and I pointed out there are easy fixes that prevent the false trigger. I just make all my insulated gaps about 1/8" and then glue a bit of plastic in the gap, a piece of those plastic things that hold the bread wrapper closed work great and their free!


I do the same thing, but I just use the kerf of a Dremel reinforced cut off wheel. I don't get shorts as described.


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